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 THE 
 
 PEAK GUIDE, 
 
 CONTAINING THE 
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, ." 
 
 AND 
 
 GENERAL HISTORY 
 
 BUXTON, CHATSWORTH, EDENSOR, CASTLTEON, BAKEVVELL, 
 HADDON, MATLOCK, AND CROMFORD; 
 
 WITH AN 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 
 
 GIVING A SUCCINCT ACCOUNT 
 
 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES OF THE COUNTY; AN ALPHABETICAL 
 
 LIST OF NOBLEMEN AND GENTLEMEN'S SEATS, AND 
 
 SEVERAL ROAD SKETCHES; 
 
 Ornamented rcith a Map, Plans and East View of Chatsworth House, 
 
 Haddon Hall, Willerslcy Castle, Bakeuwll and Mutloek Churches, 
 
 Ancient Monuments and. Armorial Bearings. 
 
 BY STEPHEN GLOVER; 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 THOMAS NOBLE, Esq. 
 
 DERBY: 
 
 Printed for the Publisher 
 
 BY HENRY MOZLEY AND SON, 
 
 AND SOLD AT THE VARIOUS SHOl'S IN MATLOCK, BUXTON, AND CASTLETON, 
 AND BY EVERY BOOKSELLER IN THE COUNTY. 
 
 1830.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 1 HE GUIDE BOOKS presented hitherto to the public are so deficient in historical 
 and general particulars, and are so confined to matters of mere descriplion, that many 
 travellers and other visitors of this interesting county have intimated to the i)roprietor 
 of the present publication, the necessity of a work of a more comprehensive charac- 
 ter. Rhodes's Picturesque Tour, elegant as it is in its design, tends rather to raise 
 the expectation than direct the observation of the tourist; and the many slight, 
 though amusing productions, w^hich have been got up for sale to the bathers at Bux- 
 ton and Matlock, were not intended by their authors to be altogether satisfactory to 
 persons who seek for solid information — The volume now edited will, it is believed, 
 be found to contain a complete topographical history of the principal places of the 
 Peak. Without entering minutely into picturesque detail, it will lead the traveller 
 to every interesting object, and will direct the man of science or those whose business 
 calls them to this county, to the particular matters of their enquiry. 
 
 Derbyshire, one of the central counties of England, is so diversified in geographical 
 aspect, that it may be said to possess both high-lands and low-lands. The former 
 are distinguished by their romantic scenery, their rocks and caverns, and for their 
 mineral wealth : the latter ditl'er little either in their appearance or in their produce 
 from the fruitful districts of other British counties. In each of these, the labours 
 of industry are eminently known, and it would be difficult to say whether the moun- 
 tains or the plains of the county are the wealthiest, or which owes the most either to 
 the bounties of nature or the energies of art. 
 
 The mountainous region of the High Peak, together with the rapid streams, em- 
 banked by rude and abrujit cliffs, and forming valleys of different extent and fea- 
 tures, which meet in the Lower Peak and swell the waters of the Derwent, otter 
 much to the contemplator of nature, to the painter and to the geologist. This region 
 is visited by many as abundant in astonishing natural objects, and by others as an 
 ample field for scientific research — To all, the chasms or cavities in the limestone 
 rocks, with their stalactites, spars and other incrustations are objects of peculiar 
 interest, while the dales offer gratifications of a more general character. 
 
 The most remarkable eminences or mountains are on the north-western extremity 
 of the county ; andof these the highest are the northern Axe-Edge, the middle and the 
 southern Axe-Edge, Kinder-Scout, and Blakelow-Stones. According to the trigono- 
 metrical survej', the great northern elevation of Axe-Edge is IJol feet above the 
 level of the sea, and Holme Moss, the most conspicuous point of Kinder-Scout, is 
 18.-)J» feet. 
 
 The ridges which branch out from the north-western corner of Derbyshire, in va- 
 rious directions across the High Peak and the Eastern Moor, until they are lost in 
 the fruitful plains that embank the Trent, contain the head-springs of numerous 
 rapid streams or rivulets and romantic rivers. 
 
 The rivers of Derbyshire are, the Trent, the Derwent, the Dove, the Erewash, the 
 Nutbrook, the Mease, the Amber, the Bootlc, the Wye, the Bradford and Lathkil, 
 the Ecclesbourne, the Goyte, the J^Uberow, tlie Ashop, the Nt)e, the Bother, the 
 Hipper, the Schoo, the Sett, the Henmore, and other smaller streams. Of these, the 
 Derwent may be regarded as the chief with resjiect to the county, as it collects and 
 discharges into the Trent the waters of nearly three hundred thousand acres. From 
 its source on the Alpine ridges of the Peak, until it reaches the town of Derby, its 
 banks are varied with beautiful and interesting scenery. The Dove has been the 
 theme of poets, the study of painters and the resort of scientific naturalists. The 
 Wye has its interesting channel amidst ravines and precipitous rocks, and displays 
 within the course of a few miles, an astonishing diversity of abrupt scenery, inter- 
 spersed with woods, or sometimes tranquillized by pastoral prospects and the hand 
 of cultivation. 
 
 Besides the sources or heads of rivers, there are many mineral or medicinal springs. 
 — At Bu.iton there are hot springs, the temperature of which is constantly I'd de- 
 grees. This water is used for bathing, and taken internally. There are also ehaly- 
 
 i^f)c)(5eo
 
 iv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 beate springs at the same town, the temperature of which varies from ^>2 to .W de- 
 grees; and on the opposite sides of the dislocated limestone, west of Buxton, there 
 are cold springs and a bath. In the midst of this dislocation the interesting river 
 Wye has its source. — Matlock is known as well by its bold and beautiful scenery as 
 by'its h()t baths. The temperature of the springs is fiti degrees. They rise in that 
 extensive disruption of the chain of limestone rocks, which the geological writers 
 
 have termed the great Derbyshire Fault At MatUick town there is a chalybeate- 
 
 S])ring At Kedleston park, east of the elegant mansion of Lord Scarsdale, there is 
 
 a medicinal spring, sulphureous and salt. Its temperature is 47 degrees. This water 
 resembles that at Harrogate, but is much weaker. — At Ilkeston, Shipley, Cotman- 
 hav and West Hallam are powerful saline and chalybeate springs, which rise in the 
 coal shale In all the mountainous ridges, springs are discovered variously impreg- 
 nated, with salt, sulphur, or witli mineral combinations. There are also sjjrings, 
 which being replete with calcarious particles appear to petrify pieces of wood or other 
 substances immersed for any time in their waters. 
 
 The caverns or chasms in the lower limestone rock are among the peculiar fea- 
 tures of Derbyshire. The most remarkable are Peak Cavern or the DcviVs Cave at 
 Castleton. It"has a wide entrance, with a concreted roof, and in rainy seasoris a 
 stream of accumulated waters vents itself through this chasm — Pool's Hole is 
 about half a mile south-west of Buxton — Elden Hole is a very deep o])en hole 
 in the limestone rock, north of a village called Peak-Forest town — jMerliti's Cave, 
 south of Eyam Church, is small but very rich in beautiful concretions or stalactites. 
 Bagsl)aw''s' Cavern, which, on account of the superior elegance of its stalactites, is 
 generally called the Crystallized Cavern, is situate south-west of Bradwell, and 
 extends through numerous subterranean chambers, above four hundred yards. 
 The caverns at Matlock B;Uh are numerous : they are called the liatland, the Cum- 
 berlanJ, the Fluor, the Devonshire, cVc. and are wonderfully diversified in position 
 and extent as well as in the grotesque forms of the concretions and their awful 
 subterranean scenery, liei/nard's Cavern and Hall are situate in Dove Dale, 
 near Hanson-Grange. The latter is entered by a curious natural arch or portico. 
 — There are other caves, some of them abounding with crystals and stalactites of 
 smaller dimensions in various parts of the Peak : but it is doubtful whether some 
 that have obtained the name of Caverns are natural chasms or exhausted and neg- 
 lected mines. 
 
 Of the dales or valleys, Dove Dale is undoubtedly the most celebrated. It extends 
 nearly north-west of Thorpe, between Derbyshire and Staflbrdshire, about five miles 
 along the course of the Dove. The high and elevated rocks in this grand dale are 
 called Dove Dale Church, Lover's Leap, Pickering's Sugar Loaves, Tissington Spire.s, 
 Thorpe Cloud, &.C. — Bonsai Dale extends two miles west from Cromford. The 
 geologist may trace in it the four limestone strata, with three of the intervening beds 
 of toadstone. This dale is dee|i and romantic. The turnpike road to Buxton passes 
 through it. Mnnsal Dale is jjarticularly interesting. It embanks both sides of the 
 Wye during the most romantic and meanderin" part of its course, extending from 
 F'in-Co))t Hill to Miller's Dale. — Matlork-Bath Dale extends along the course of 
 the Derwent more than two miles from Cromford cotton mills. Within it are found 
 the tufa and tlie petrifying springs, the hot springs and baths. The i)rincipal emi- 
 nences are called the Heights of Abraham, High Tor, Scarthin Cliffs, Wild Cat, 
 Tor-Rocks, &c. — Middleton or Eyam Dale is highly romantic and pictures(jue: it 
 abounds with elevated rocks and some interesting caverns. The other interesting 
 dales are Cave Dale near Castleton, Bradford and Lalhkil Doles, Mill Dale near 
 Buxton, and Miller's Dale on the banks of the Wye, in which rise the Raven Tor 
 and Chee Tor, while other bold and abrupt eminences project along its sides. 
 
 The mineral productions of Derhyshire emhrace nearly every species of subterra- 
 nean wealtli ; but the coal, lead, iron and marble are those which chiefly engage the 
 enterprise and industry of the inhabitants. The coal-field or great coal-rake as it is 
 sometimes called, lies along the eastern boundary of the count}', and is from twelve 
 to fifteen miles in width, with narrow branches extending from it along the border 
 of Leicestershire, southward, and more i)articularly near the border of Yorkshire, 
 where the Jield or rake itself widens and occu])ies a large district of that northern 
 county. — The strata of coal are sometimes completely denudated or very barely 
 covered with earth, hut they are usually found beneath the yellow or magnesian 
 limestone. The whole extent of the coal-measures or the coal-Jield in Derbyshire is 
 about l!tt»,00<l acres. 
 
 The principal collieries are Adelphi, Alfreton, Asbgate in Brampton, Butterlcy, 
 Codnor park, Denhy, Ilkeston, Morley park, Newhall, Pinxton, Ripley, Hartshay 
 in Pentrich, Stavelcy, Shipley, Somercoles, Swanwick, West Hallam, \c. <^c. 
 
 The use of coal as fuel must have been known in very early times, and rude tools 
 have been found in some parts of Leicestershire and Yorkshire, whore the coal strata 
 hasset or appear above the limestoncj which sufficiently prove that the Britons were
 
 INTRODUCTION. Vll 
 
 not unacquainted with this valuable article. There is evidence also of the Barwell 
 colliery, near Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and isome mines in the West Riding of York- 
 shire, having been worked in' the Romans. Coal, as fuel, was however not exten- 
 sively used in England until ihe commencement of the seventeenth century. In the 
 reigns of Edward I. and iLlizaheth, edicts were made prohi!)iting coal-fires in London. 
 Still it appears, from a charter of Edward II. dated 1315, that the coal of Derbyshire 
 was in use in the monasteries, and that the monks of Beauchicf supplied themselves 
 from the mines at Alfreton and Norton. Coal-mines are now justly esteemed the 
 most valuable source of our national wealth, as it is from their al)undance that our 
 manufactories have derived that astonishing power of production ; for the steam 
 engine would be an inert macliine were it not for the almost vital heat which our in- 
 exhaustible su])ply of coal imparts to it. 
 
 In Derbyshire the coal-pits, except in a few instances, are worked by lessees. The 
 rents are from £50. to £100. per acre, and measurement of the mines and their 
 works is generally made every year. Some coal-owners take a rent upon everj' ton 
 sold at the pit : this varies from 4^. to H'xl. according to the goodness of the coal and 
 the productiveness of the works. Coal, although it possesses many varieties, is com- 
 monly spoken of only as /lard or soft. The hard coal, when of a bright black colour, 
 is much esteemed. The soft coal often burns rapidly, and in some instances it is 
 slattery or easily crumbled into .slack or small fragments : it is then called smithif 
 coal, and is used only for manufacturing purposes. Coal-mines are subject to fatal 
 explosions of what is termed the ji re-da in p. This is a gas, chiefly composed of hy- 
 drogen, generated from the decomposition of various substances; and, mixing with 
 the atmospheric air, it frequently explodes, occasioning much desolation and loss of 
 lives. The clioke-damp is the deadened or unbreathable air, that expands after the 
 explosion by which the oxygen has been consumed. 
 
 This district of Britain was more or less known to the nations of antiquity on ac- 
 count of its lead mines, the produce of which was an article of commerce in the 
 marts of Tyre and Carthage. Subsequently, under the government of the Romans, 
 this useful mineral was an object of research and regulation ; and blocks or j)igs of 
 lead have been discovered in this county, stamped severally with the name of the 
 reigning emperor, and in one instance with the name of an individual, probably that 
 of a government supervisor. There are proofs that the lead-mines were not over- 
 looked by the monks, when, during the Saxon heptarchy, they laid the foundations 
 of their wealthy establishments. In 714, the lead-mines around Wirksworth be- 
 longed to an ecclesiastical establishment at Repton, and there appear to have been 
 various grants regarding the mines during that period. Previous to the conquest, 
 these grants had been seized by the Danish sovereigns, and William 1. retained them 
 as the peculiar domain of the crown. At the time of the Norman survey, as is ap- 
 parent from Doomsday Book, the lead-mines were valuable. The castle of the Peak, 
 built about that jicriod, was covered «ith lead. From that period to the reign of 
 Elizabeth, the right to these mineral treasures was esteemed to be vested in the 
 sovereign, and this claim was confirmed by Inquisitions held at Ashbourn and 
 Wirksworth. But queen Elizabeth, in the liJth year of her reign, granted all her 
 mineral possessions in Derbyshire to a Society or Corporation. The Devonshire 
 family have long been lessees of th^ High Peak mines, and the lease of those in the 
 wapentake of Wirksworth is vested in Richard Arkwright, esq. 
 
 The miners have from time immemorial possessed regulations and laws of their own. 
 By these laws, or customs, any man or set of men might dig or search for veins of 
 ore in the king's field (comprising the greater part of the mountainous limestone 
 district of Derbyshire) without the permission and without being in any way ac- 
 countable to the owners or occupiers of the soil, for the damage committed by them. 
 
 The first lead mines were made in places where the limestone is covered with light 
 soil, and the ore was thrown out by hand instruments. Some shallow mines, opened, 
 probably, in periods of the highest antiquity, still exist; and indeed it was not until 
 a very modern era, that the veins of ore were followed to any considerable depth. 
 The ancient mineral laws also were injurious to the progress of improvement. The 
 rake-veins are now worked at very great depths. Each direction taken by the miners 
 in working out the ore, is called a $toop of work, and in some mines, two or three 
 stoops are wrought at the same time. The produce of ore even in the same rake- 
 vein differs materially : in the extent of one yard, the quantity of ore may vary from 
 ItiOO to ;500 pounds. The veins of ore called pipe-veins are generally worked under 
 greater disadvantages than the rake-vcins. 
 
 The Derbyshire lead mines are held in shares, and frequently the shares are small 
 and the co-proprietors numerous. Some shares are forty-eighths, and even these in 
 some mines are again subdivided into eighths and sixteenths. 
 
 We enumerate the following as a few of the principal lead mines. 
 
 Bondog-hole, sometimes called the Dogholes, in IMiddleton by Wirksworth, where 
 ore is said to be found in the toadstonc stratum. These miues"are naturally cavern-
 
 Viii INTllODUCTION. 
 
 ous and alKwiid with stalactites. That they were worked in very ancient times is 
 ajjparcnt from the largL- hillocks of refuse stuliin and about them. 
 
 The (iang or Dove-gang, the Godbtr, Goodluck, and Great-pits in Cromford and 
 Middleton, are rich in ore which is found in the shale, the limestone and even in the 
 loadstone strata. Pyrites and other mineral productions abound in these mines, and 
 a hot spring oozes through the limestone reck. 
 
 The Gregory mine at Overton in Ashover abounds in ore, which is found in the 
 grit, the shale, and limestone strata. The ore is of two different kinds. Here are 
 also transparent fluor with silvery pyrites, crystals of calc, spar, &c. The principal 
 shaft is three hundred yards deep. 
 
 The Cross-Rake mine in Matlock High Tor abounds in lead and calamine. It is 
 in the limestone stratum. 
 
 The Odin mine, north-west of Castleton, is perhaps one of the most ancient in the 
 countv. It contains much lead ore, with black jack, fluor, cauk, elastic bitumen, 
 &c. 
 
 The Ratchwood mine, in Wirksworlh, is productive of much valuable ore, with 
 other minerals. 
 
 Stafford's-Dream, or the Dream-mine, is wholly in the limestone rock, and is rich 
 in lead ore, ochre, Sac. 
 
 The Cromford Moor and Crich mines are amongst the most valuable now wrought 
 in the county. 
 
 There are about two thousand two hundred and eighty miners employed in get- 
 ting ore in Derbyshire. 
 
 The cupolas for smelting lead are at Barbrook in Baslow, Bradwell, Meerbrook 
 in Alderwasley, Lea near Crom.ford, ?.liddleton Dale, Stone-Edge in Ashover, Tot- 
 ley, Via-Gellia, Bonsall and at Stony 3Iiddleton. 
 
 The Messrs. Alsop, of Lea Wood, are the greatest smelters of lead ore in the 
 countv ; they frequently smelt thirty tons per week. Messrs. Milnes, .\shover ; 
 Richard Hurt, esq. Wirksworth ; John Barker, esq. Hilltop, Bakewell, and others, 
 are also considerable smelters. 
 
 The lead mills of ^Messrs. Walker and Co. and Messrs. Goodalls, on the Norman- 
 ton road, near Derby, and those of Mr. Holbrook, in Derby, merit attention ; and 
 the shot tower of Messrs. Cox, Poyser and Co. is a curious and interesting object. 
 This is a circular building, about fitity yards in height. The formation of the shot is 
 an ingenious process, for which the proprietors of the works have a patent. The 
 ore, in a state of fusion, is poured from a boiler at the top of the tower, and falls 
 through sieves into a reservoir of water below. This tower suffered considerably by 
 fire on the 13th of April, 1824, but was shortly afterwards repaired, and is now in 
 full operation. 
 
 At very early periods the ironstone of this county was known, and in various 
 places coal-furnaces were erected for smelting it. The first mode of getting thi.s 
 mineral was by open casts or works, but when the bassets or exposed beds of ore 
 were exhausted, recourse was had to excavations, which are frequently made in the 
 form of a cone or Ml, from three to ten feet deep, and spreading in its descent over 
 many yards. When the ironstone bed is covered by a solid stratum, the ore is work- 
 ed in the regular way of mining. The ironstone beds at Codnor Park near Hcanor, 
 those at Morley Park near Heage, and those at Somercotes in Alfreton, Chesterfield 
 and Staveley are the most valuable in the county. The old coal furnaces continued 
 in use until within the last fifty years, but iron is now made in tall furnaces only, 
 heated with the coke of pit-coal, and blown by cylinder bellows worked by steam- 
 engines. When the fusion of the ironstone commences, the smelted metal passes 
 through layers of coke and limestone, and collecting at the bottom of the furnace, is 
 let out into beds of sand, moulded to the forms required. A pig of iron is thrcp feet 
 and a half in length, and weighs one hundred pounds. 
 
 Before the introduction of coke for the smelting of iron, the number of blast-fur- 
 naces was/o«r, and their aggregate produce was eight hundred tons of pig-iron an- 
 nually. 
 
 In 1788, one charcoal blitst-furnace only remained ; and seven furnaces, in which 
 coke was consumed, had been established. The total annual produce of pig-iron 
 had risen to four thousand five hundred tons. 
 
 In l/iKi, the blast-furnaces were ten, and their annual produce had increased to 
 seven thousand six hundred and fifty tons. 
 
 In 180fi, the number of furnaces was eleven, and their estimated annual produce 
 ten thousand tons. 
 
 In 1825, fourteen furnaces were in blast within this county, yielding about nine- 
 teen thousand one hundred tons of pig-iron. 
 
 In 1827, the number of blast-furnaces wnsjifteen, and their produce may be stated 
 at twenty thousand eight Imndred tons. 
 
 The number of blast-furnaces in work has recently been reduced to fourteen, and
 
 INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 the pig-iron manufactured from them, within the year 1829, will probably not exceed 
 twenty thousand tons. 
 
 The total number of blast-furnaces in Derbyshire is nineteen, five of which were 
 out of blast in the beginning of 1)!2!(. 
 
 The celebrated Butterley Company possesses numerous and extensive works. At 
 Butterley, there are furnaces, a founclery and steam-engine manufactory : at Codnor 
 there are furnaces, afoundery and bar-iron works : at these? places, together with the 
 Ormond, Portland and Heanor collieries ; the ironstone mines connected therewith ; 
 the Crich limestone quarries and lime-works, and the Codnor Park lime-works, there 
 are at present nearly fifteen hundred men employed. This number necessarily va- 
 ries with the state of trade. Half are employed in the mines and the rest in the 
 iron works and other manufactories. There were in March, l!!2!t, two furnaces in 
 blast at Butterley and two at Codnor Park, producing on an average thirty-live tons 
 
 of pig-iron per week at each furnace The wages paid to the different classes of 
 
 men vary considerably. The following may be about the average. Ironstone-getters, 
 12.V. to 14a-. per week : colliers Ijs. to 2(Js. In each of these two classes a great num- 
 ber of boys are employed, whose wages vary from 4.v. to 12.s. per week, according to 
 their ages. Labourers P2.v. per week : furnace men I7s. M. to -Il.s. : moulders 18*. 
 to 21a-. : smiths 18a\ to 21a'. : carpenters KJa. to 20.?. : model-makers 18*. to 24a'. : en- 
 gine fitters, turners and other mechanics, about 1().«. to 24.v. : quarry men i2A-. to las. 
 The massive and magrsificent castings executed at Butterley have been numerous, 
 and have bestowed a celebrity upon the enterprising and skilful proprietors, which, 
 being shared by the county, renders the iron-works of Derbyshire the subject of ad- 
 miration to distant nations. Among these works are the following : — The Vauxhall 
 iron bridge: a cast-iron bridge to cross the river Gompta, at Lucknow, in the East 
 Indies, for His Highness the Nabob of Oude: the iron roof for the Rum-quay, West 
 India docks : bridgers and other works for the West India docks : the cast-iron colon- 
 nade in front of the Opera House, London : the iron bridges for the harbour of 
 Dublin, andiron roofs for the king's warehouses in that city : the iron bridge for 
 Leith harbour: the iron bridges, lock-gates, and other works for the Caledonian 
 canal: a considerable part of the cast-ironworks for his majesty's dock-yard and 
 
 storehouses at Sheerness During the war, iron shot was made at the Butterley 
 
 works for the king's service. At the same manufactory was made the whole of the 
 large main of pipes to supply the city of Edinburgh with water ; as well as numerous 
 pipes for the great water-work companies and gas companies in England, and those 
 of the water-works at the Cape of Good Hope. Besides many steam engines for 
 collieries, factories, mills, &c. several powerful ones were made at Butterley, for 
 draining the fens at Misterton, near Gainsborough, by which the perfect drainage of 
 more than 50,000 acres of land has been effected. The steam engines applied to 
 vessels for the purposes of navigation which have been executed at these works are 
 numerous. And a vast number of steam-engines, sugar-mills and machinery have 
 been sent by the Butterley Company to the West Indies, the Mauritius and other 
 colonial states. The Butterley Company employs twenty-six steam engines from 
 one hundred and sixty to eight horses' power: the aggregate power amounting to 
 more than that of seven hundred horses. 
 
 The Alfreton Iron Works are situate within the hamlet of Riddings, in the parish 
 of Alfreton. They consist of two blast furnaces for the manufacture of pig-iron, and 
 an extensive foundery for the conversion of a part of this produce into castings. 
 During the late war, these works were employed almost exclusively in furnishing 
 cannon-shot and shells for the service of government ; of which three thousand one 
 hundred tons have been sent to the royal arsenal at Woolwich in the space of one 
 year. Similar castings continue to be occasionally supi>lied from these works for the 
 board of ordnance, and for the East India ('ompany. Now, however, the principal 
 part of the produce of these works, not disposed of as pig-iron, is cast into retorts and 
 pipes for gasworks; ])i])es for water-works ; castings for machinery ; bridges and 
 the general purposes of architecture. The retorts made at Alfreton have obtained 
 considerable celebrity on account of their durability. Three collieries are connected 
 with this establishment ; which, besides sujjpiying'the iron works, contribute largely 
 towards the general consum]Hion of coal in the midland counties. Eleven steam- 
 engines are in use on the different departments of the works, and from six to seven 
 thousand yards of rail-road. The number of men emjj'oyed is about tive hundred. 
 Three hundred and (ifty of these are connected with the ironstone works and col- 
 lieries, and the remainder with the blast furnaces and founderies. The earnings of 
 the labourers vary from 1.?. M. to 2a-. 4f/. jjcr day; of the mechanics, founders and 
 furnace men, from 3*. to Sa'. ; of the colliers and ironstone getters, from 2a-. (W. to 
 4a'. M. according to the nature of the work and the ability and experience of the in- 
 dividual. 
 
 The limits of an introductory chapter will not allow us to describe more particu- 
 larly these important establishments. Our intention in this outline is rather to
 
 X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 enumerate the prominent objects of interest which this county contains, than to an- 
 ticipate the researches of the intelligent entiuirer. It will suffice therefore to men- 
 tion, in this place, that the Brampton and Chesterfield founderies are more eminent 
 for the useful and tasteful articles of domestic convenience, than for more ponderous 
 castings, as are those at Derby, Dronfield, Millford and Renishaw. The foundery 
 of Messrs. Weatherhead, Glover and Co. in Derby, has been distinguished not only 
 for the elegance of the domestic castings, but for the superiority of its architecturjil 
 works and ornamental vases. The gothic church-windows and columns executed at 
 this foundery have been esteemed perfect specimens of this art, and are proofs of 
 the capability of its being applied to the loftiest designs of the builder. The churches 
 and chapels in which these elegant gothic window-frames, 6cc. have been affixed, 
 are those of Fortsea, in Hampshire ; Bordesley, near Birmingham ; Walsall, 
 Burton and West Bromwich, in Staffordshire; Kidderminster, in Worcestershire; 
 Ashton-under-Lyne and Oldham, in Lancashire; and the new church (St. John's) 
 in Derby. The beautiful temple now in the Alton Tower gardens, was designed 
 and cast at the Derwent foundry, Derby, for the earl of Shrewsbury. 
 
 Besides the founderies already mentioned, there are in this county nine iron forges, 
 ■where are made «TOught iron bars, rods, sheet plates, cSlc. ; and at Derby the iron 
 and copper works of Messrs. Bingham, Humpston and Co. These mills were estab- 
 lished in 17-^4, for preparing iron for various uses, and for the purpose of smelting, 
 rolling and preparing copper for sheathing vessels, and sheet-iron and tin. There is 
 also the wrought-iron steam engine boiler manufactory of Mr. Harrison, St. Mary's 
 bridge, Derby ; at this manufactory boilers are made from one to one hundred horses' 
 power, steam kitchens, and every other description of \vrought-iron boilers, brewing 
 and bleaching pans, gasometers, hot-air stoves or cockles for heating mansions, &c. 
 roasting and steaming apparatus, and every kind of lock and smith's work. Mr. Har- 
 rison made a wrought-iron tank for the Nottingham gas company, forty -two feet in 
 diameter and eighteen feet six inches deep, that held 193,082 gallons of water, and 
 estimating the pressure on the bottom to be 8r, lbs. to the inch, the weight will be 
 mOh tons — The tank was estimated to weigh "thirty-six tons when completed, and 
 was undoubtedly the largest ever made in "this county. ^Ir. Harrison also erects 
 vineries, peach houses, pine-pits, conservatories, green-houses, &ic. which he heats 
 by steam or hot air. 
 
 The manufactory of Messrs. Fox and Sons, City Road, Derby, on the banks of the 
 Derwent, is highly interesting for the display of superior ingenuity in the command 
 and application of power imparted to various engines. This is principally seen in 
 cutting iron, and their admirable iron lathes, which are from £200. to £800. value. 
 
 At ^losbrough, Troway, RiJgeway and Ford, in the parish of Eckington, and other 
 villages in the north of Derbyshire, an extensive manufacture in scythes and sickles 
 is carried on. From this neighbourhood various countries are supplied with these 
 useful implements, viz. : America, Russia, Poland, Scotland, Ireland, <kc. and all 
 parts of England. 
 
 The nail manufacture has been a very ancient branch of the iron trade in this 
 county. It is at present carried on extensively by ^Messrs. Mold and Co. at Belper ; 
 and 'oy other masters at Belper, Chesterfield, Derby, Eckington, Wirksworth, and 
 other places in the county ; there are about sixty niasters in this business, who em- 
 ploy not less than two hundred and fifty hands.' 
 
 Of the natural wealth of this county the marble may be mentioned as one of the 
 constituents. It is a beautiful calcarious substance, and is found in various parts of 
 the High and Low Peak. The black marble of Ashford is capable of receiving an 
 extraordinary high polish, so as to reflect objects as brightly as a mirror. The mot- 
 tled and veined grey marble, varving in tint from a faint blue to an azure purple, is 
 obtained in large quantities near Monyash. The figured marble, abounding with 
 shell-petrifactions (entrochi, anomites,' corals, (kc.) the sections of which display an 
 endless diversity of figure, is found also at Monyash, Ashover, Hassop and at Slaley 
 near Bonsall. There are marble works at Ashford and at Derby, where this material 
 is wrought into articles of domestic elegance and into monuments. Chimney-pieces 
 are sold at various prices, from 30«. to upwards of £(J0. and beautiful tables of black 
 
 marble, enriched with elegant engravings, are also made there The saw-mills for 
 
 cutting marble and free-stone into slabs were first established at Ashford, bv the 
 late Mr. Henry Watson, of Bakewell, nearly a centurv ago. The most valuable 
 quarries belong to the dukes of Devonshire and Rutland. 
 
 In the limestone rocks is found the substance called, petrosilex or chert- This 
 when white and pure is known by the name of china stone, and is sent off in very 
 considerable quantities to the Staffordshire potteries. Most of the limestone and 
 chalk districts produce this material, but that from the neighbourhood of Bakewell 
 and Little Longstone is most esteemed. 
 
 The freestone or building-stone cjuarries are verv numerous in Derbvshire. At 
 the Lea-wcod delph or quarry, blocks of buildijig-st'one are sold at fir/, per foot cube ;
 
 INTRODUCTION. xi 
 
 the price at Belper is 8cl. ; and at the Priory, near Breadsall, a fine solid stone is 
 
 procured, wholly free from clay, that is sold as high as \i)d Some of the gritstone 
 
 rocks afford an excellent building-stone, and that from the yellow limestone strata 
 is durable. 'I'he shale freestone is found variegated with concentric streaks, of an 
 orange colour or dingy red, and chimney-pieces are sometimes made of it Flag- 
 beds of paving stones, which split plane and flat, and require little labour are also 
 numerous. The price at the quarry is from 12c/. to '20d. per superficial yard. The 
 most ]5erfect are those in tiie gritstone rocks. 
 
 There are about twenty grindstone quarries. The stone differs considerably in its 
 quality, but is all serviceable either for grinding fine tools or for coarser purposes. 
 At Corbar in the Peak and Stanley, very fine grindstones are made, while the large 
 coarse stones from the Gregory quarry in Overton, are in extensive demand. The 
 average value is about two pounds or two guineas per ton. Some of these quarries 
 furnish whetstones and scythestones; the latter at U)s. or 126-. per long hundred. 
 
 The gritstone rock, so abundant in the northern districts of Derbyshire, su;)i)ly 
 the farmer, the builder and the artisan with much useful material, and at Stanton 
 in the Peak and at Birchover, the grit rock is found porous, and is in request for 
 filtering cisterns and other vessels. 
 
 The quarries producing slate or tile-stones are numerous. The general price of 
 the slate at the quarry is from o4.s. to J'^*- per rood ; the rood being sufficient to roof 
 in forty-four square yards. At Cobourn quarrj', in South Winfield park, the slates 
 are remarkably large and coarse, some of them are more than a yard high, and are 
 used as eaves slating and even as fences. 
 
 The gypsum, alabaster or plaster-stone is, by the geologists, classed among the 
 earths, and is no where found in greater purity than in the red marl strata of this 
 county. There are four gypsum i>its on the south-east side of Chellaston, belonging 
 to Mr. William Orton and Mr. George Wooton. There is also a pit at Aston, and 
 another at Ballington Hill, near Ambaston. The principal demand for the pure 
 white gyjisum or that slightly streaked with red, is made by the Staffordshire pot- 
 ters. This sells at 10s. per ton ; but some particularly fine blocks are purchased by 
 the makers of alabaster ornaments and by statuaries, as high as 'Ms. and uj)wards 
 per ton. The columns in the mansion of Lord Scarsdale, at Kedleston, are formed 
 of this material. The inferior sort, of which plaster floors are made, is called Hoor- 
 ing stone, and is sold at from lis. to Ts. and lO.v. per ton. 
 
 The cauk mills, for grinding and converting cauk into an article little inferior to 
 white lead, have been successively established at Bonsall and Derby. Cauk is found 
 in lead mines throughout the county, and the price of it at the pits, in its raw state, 
 is from 8a'. to 12s. per ton. 
 
 The spar works of Ivir. Hall at Derby, together with the museum at IMatlock, are 
 gratifying objects of curiosity, taste and science. The fluor spar, or as it is termed 
 blue John, is an elegant natural production. The only mountain where it can be 
 obtained in sufficient abundance and quality for the purposes of manufacture, is 
 situate westward of Castleton, between Mam Tor and the eminences that compose 
 the Long Cliff. Its price is about £40. per ton. Some of the pieces of fluor are a 
 foot in thickness, and have four or five different veins, but such large ])ieccs are very 
 rare. In general they are only about three or four inches in thickness. The deep 
 violet is the most common kind, but in some pieces a fine yellow tint prevails, and 
 in others a pale rose-colour. The acid obtained from ffuor spar is more ])owerfullj' 
 corrosive than any other, and is used in engraving upon glass. The natural colours 
 of the S]:)ar are greatly affected by heat. At the'spar manufactories in Derby, this 
 elegant material is worked into a variety of ornamental and useful articles, such as 
 vases, cups, necklaces, ear-drops, &c. There are also similar manufactories at Bux- 
 ton, Castleton and Matlock Bath. The coarse, discoloured and inferior kinds of this 
 spar, are in great demand at the founderies as fiuxes of the ore. From Knowles' 
 mine great quantities are sent to the F.cton cop|)er works ; and the furnaces at 
 Butterley and Somercotes are supplied from the ('rich Cliff pits. 
 
 Bricks and tiles are made from the red marl, with which the more fruitful part of 
 Derbyshire abounds ; ]iarticularly from the tenacious portions of that earth. From 
 the grey clay of Brassington, which is a decom])osition of loadstone, tiles have been 
 made, resembling the fiat slate-like tiles of Staffordshire. Draining tiles and pipe- 
 bricks are made at Newton Solney, where the former are sold at '20s. per hundred ; 
 and the latter at various ])rices, from 4'/. each to 'Siis. the thousand. At Ashover, 
 Bolsover, Swadlincote and other jilaces, fire bricks are manufactured for sale and 
 are in great repute ; and at Swadlincote arch-bricks are made for reverbatory fur- 
 naces, and round tiles for the use of the bar-iron manufacturers. 
 
 The tobacco-])ipe makers, who reside chiefly at Derby, Bolsover, and New Bramp- 
 ton near Chesterfield, obtain much of the raw material from Bolsover, Killamarsh, 
 and Chellaston Hill. 
 The Derbyshire diamonds are small detached and perfect crystals, consisting of
 
 xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 an hexagonal prism terminated by pyramids. They are found at Buxton, Castleton, 
 Millcr's-Dale near I'riestcliH', iSic. They are generally imbedded in loadstone strata, 
 where sometimes have been found small specimens of calcedony, jasper, terra-vert 
 and even onyxes. 
 
 The art of the lapidary or jeweller is said to have been introduced into this town 
 by Mr. Obijah Mellor, about the middle of the last century, and yet there exist some 
 uncertain traditions that assign to it a much higher antiquity ; and it is not improbable 
 that the stones found in the High Peak tempted the researches of lapidtiries from 
 very remote jieriods, until the real value of those stones were correctly ascertained. 
 The ])resent lajjidaries and jewellers are Mr. F. Severne and Mr. E. Simpson. The 
 articles manufactured by them are esteemed little inferior to the best workmanship 
 of London. They employ about one hundred hands, and the wages are from 
 12*. to 2'2s. per week. 
 
 A district like Derbysliire, aboundingthusin the useful ores of lead and iron, with 
 other natural productions, would necessarily have had some intercourse of trade in 
 very early times. It would be ahsiud to endeavour to trace any certain vestiges of 
 such conmierce, any I'urthcr than to point out the jjrobability that the mines of 
 Derbyshire were known to the traders of Belgium previously to the Roman invasion, 
 while the pigs of lead, imjiressed with latin inscriptions, which have been discovered 
 in the mining districts, sufficiently prove that this species of wealth had become an 
 object of attention to the Roman government.— The conveyance of heavy articles 
 must have been attended with considerable difficulty, but it appears plainly by 
 Doomsday Book that the Trent had been navigable long before the Conquest, and 
 it may be inferred that water carriage was not wholly unknown in the remotest 
 periods. 
 
 There can be no doubt that those who wrought the mines obtained their sustenance 
 from the southern districts of the county, and hence would originate a trade in corn 
 and other ])rovisions. This intercourse continued many centuries, and Camden de- 
 scribes the town of Derby in his time, as dependent for its prosperity upon dealers 
 
 who purchased corn, which they sold again to the more northern people The 
 
 business of malting was carried on in Derbyshire at a very ancient period. The art 
 and trade of brewing seems also to have been understood at an early era, and as the 
 word (lie may be fairly derived from the Danish oel, it does not seem unlikely that 
 some kind of beverage from fermented corn, was introduced into this county by that 
 people, who for some time held possession of Derby. It cannot be affirmed that the 
 malt-trade was carried on very extensively in this county before the sixteenth and 
 seventeenth centuries, and we observe that Deering, in his History of Nottingham, 
 mentions that town as having enjoyed the malting and malt-liquor trade for several 
 ages without any competitor in the midland ))art of the realm. Mr. Woolley, how- 
 ever observes, in his manuscript history, under the date 1712, "the principal trade 
 of this town, (Derby) is that of malting, with which they supj^l}- a great part of 
 Cheshire, Staffordshire and Lancashire, by which many good estates have been 
 raised ; as also by the trade of a baker, this town supplying most of the Peak country 
 with bread of hard corn, they having none but oats among themselves. This town 
 is famous for very good ale, which the brewers send to London and other parts to 
 good advantage. 
 
 The woollen manufactories were established at very early periods in this and the 
 neighbouring county of Nottingham, as appears by a Charter granted by king .John 
 in the year lllMt, which conferred on the burgesses of Derby and Nottingham the ex- 
 clusive privilege of dying cloth. This rather jiroves the antiquity of the dyers' 
 trade in these two towns, than of the manufactures. A proclamation was made in 
 17th Ldward III. to carry into effect a jirevious resolution of parliament, expressly 
 for the protection of the wool-trade of Derby, which ordains that no person whether 
 native or foreigner shall purchase \\()ol at a lower price than !)r, marks per sack, that 
 being the price established in the coimty of Derby. This shows that the wool of 
 this county was considered sufficiently important to take the lead in fixing the 
 general i)rice of that article, or that Derby had the reputation of being the staple 
 town for the disposal of native wool. It is remarkable that ai)out the period of this 
 proclamation, the conquest of Calais, where a mart for the wool of Flanders had long 
 existed, had introduced much foreign wool, and thus diminished the price of the 
 home-grown commodity. F.dward perceived the advantages of this intercourse, and 
 notwithstanding this protecting edict, he incorporated a comjiany of wool merchants, 
 under the name of the merchants of the staple, and ordained that the price fixed by 
 them at Calais should be the regulating value. This company maintained its station 
 and extended the home and foreign wool trade with much advantage to the country, 
 keeping up a continual correspondence with agents in Derby and Nottingham, until 
 the loss of Calais, under Queen Mary, when that channel of prosperity to this town 
 gradually declined. 
 
 Wool in Derbyshire is sold either by the stone of 14 lbs. or by the tod of 28 lbs.
 
 INTRODUCTION. xiii 
 
 There are no fairs expressly for the sale of the wools of this county, though some 
 persons have at times advocated such an estiilHishment, and formerly the July fair 
 at Chapel-en-le-Frith was noted for the sale of this article. It is customarv for the 
 wool-stajilers to go from farm to farm. The wool (jf the v.-oodland sheei) has been 
 sold by iMr. Charles Greaves of Rowlee, as high as 42j<. per tod ; and the wool of the 
 small forest-breed, sells for half as much more as the new Leicestershire wool. Mr. 
 W. B. Thomas of Chesterfield, interested himself, earnestly, in introducing the 
 Merino breed into this county, on his farms at Boythorjie, Brampton and Baslow- 
 and in UllO, George the Third honoured his patriotic endeavours, bv presenting hirn 
 with two fine Merino ewes.* In llil2, ."\ir. Thomas cli])t three hundred and eighty- 
 six fleeces, which sold for £'A-i{). Ts. (besides X'22. bs. M. for lambs' wool) averaging 
 nearly \1s. iUL for the wool of each sheep through the whole flock. " 
 
 By the charter of Grants of Queen Mary in Ifl5.5, there apjjcars to have been three 
 fulling-mills on the river Derwent, which stood on the flats, where the old silk mill 
 was afterwards erected ; and the name of the " Full-street," still ])oints out the par- 
 ticular part of the banks of the river, where the fullers carried on their branch of 
 the wool-manufacture. Fulling-mills are now in use at Glossop, Simond-lev and 
 other places. 
 
 It is within the last century that the manufacture of woollen cloth has been prac- 
 tised in this county on an extensive scale, but there are at [^resent numerous estab- 
 lishments for the various processes of yarn-spinning, weaving and cloth-dressin" • 
 and in that part of Glossop-vale which borders upon Yorkshire, broad and narrow 
 cloths are fabricated equal to those of any other district in l-',ngland. This vale ro- 
 mantically situated, contains the cioth-works of Ciiunal, Hayfield and Simond-ley, 
 — Worsted-spinning for the hosiers is carried on at Litton, Lea-wood, Melbourn and 
 
 Tideswel], and at St. Werburgh's in Derby there are three mills for this operation 
 
 Blanket and carpet weaving have been undertaken in this county, but we believe 
 not with the success expected by the enterprising speculators. Fustians and stuffs 
 are made at OUerset in Glossop-dale, at Tideswell and at U'oodthorpe. 
 
 There are manufactories of linen in Derbyshire, but the growth of flax has not 
 been so successfully attended to, as in the o])inion of many intelligent persons it 
 might have been. The cultivation of this useful plant has, ho'wever, not been wholly 
 neglected, and in the moist meadows amid the moor-lands of Scarsdale, that cultiva- 
 tion has been generally successful. There are flax spinning mills at Kelstedge 
 Toad-hole, in Darley, Charlesworth, Matlock, Aic. and the linen-thread or yarn'^is 
 woven into sheeting, checks and similar fabrics at Belper, Kelstedge, New Bramp- 
 ton, Chesterfield, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Wirksworth, Creswell in Whitwell, &c. 
 
 Hemp is not cultivated in any jwrt of this county. There are however numerous 
 rope-walks and rope and twine mills. The entrance into the Peak Cavern at Castle- 
 ton is celebrated for its rope and small cord makers, whose rude appearance and 
 movements in the gloom of the terrific archway, are appropriate to the scene. At 
 Clown, thei-e is a manufactory for the weaving of sacking, sail-cloths, hop-ba°-'s and 
 other coarse articles. " 
 
 Stockings v\ere in former times, generally, if not entirely made of worsted, and 
 were knitted by hand; but for many years past, stockings intended for sale are 
 frame-woven. In Derbyshire very few, if any, worsted stockings are made on the 
 frame ; and tiie framewori'-knitters of thiscounty may be divided into two branches; 
 namely, those who work in silk and those who use cotton only. In the silk branch 
 there are eighthundred and fifty jrersons employed ; in the cotton, not fewer than 
 six thousand, fioe hundred — The stocking-franie was invented towards the close of 
 the sixteenth century, by Mr. William Lea, M. A. of St. John's, Cambridge. He 
 was born at Woodborough, a village about seven miles from Nottingham. '^It is re- 
 lated that he became enamoured with a lovely stocking knitter, who instructed and 
 employed young girls in the same business. " She refected his addresses, and her 
 admirer, in revenge of his slighted affections, conceived the design of inventiii"- a 
 machine that should render the h;uid-knitting of stockings a jirofi'tless employnuMn. 
 He produced the stocking-frame m loHi), and tauglit his brother and some" of his 
 nearest relatives the use of it. Having for some years practised this new art at 
 Calverton, a village about five miles from Nottingham, he proceeded to London, and 
 solicited the protection and encouragement of the court. This was either at tlie 
 latter end of the reign of Klizabeth or early in that of .lames I. ; but though he and 
 his brother are said to have made a pair of stockings in the presence of the s-t)verei"-n 
 
 • "In order to excite attention to the proLTCss and advaiUnpes of breeding Merino sheep Mr 
 Thomas has invite.l the agriculturists of the connty to be annually present at bis she(p-«heariii|>" 
 when he exhibits the live animals in their several staiies of prowtb, their wool, their muttcni ; and 
 cloth also, both for ladies' and fjentkmen's wiar, manufactured from the hmoI prown on his own firms. 
 In Mr. Thomas's family, no other habit or broa.l-cloth, but this of his own ."rowth is worn ; and nnnv 
 competent judges have pronounced this doth to be mual in quality to \he best that can be mail'e 
 from imported Spanish piles." See Parey's Derbyshire. 
 
 C
 
 Xiv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 his invention was discountenanced, upon the grounds that it would tend to deprive 
 hundreds of the industrious poor of their usual means of maintenance. The value 
 of such improvements, by which the productions of industry might be increased, 
 was not then understood in this country, and France was the place where the aid 
 of machinery in various species of manufacture was beginning to be sought after. 
 There Mr. ilea, at the invitation of the illustrious Henry IV. went with nine work- 
 men, and settled at Rouen in Normandy. The murder of that monarch, and the 
 intestine troubles of the kingdom destroyed the expectations of Mr. Lea, who ended 
 his days at Paris ; a victim, it is said, to disappointment and grief. Seven of the 
 workrnen returned to England, and under the direction of a person named Aston, 
 who had considerably improved upon the original invention, the foundation of the 
 manufacture was laid in England — The two workmen \\ ho remained in PVance 
 attempted in vain to obtain encouragement ; and endeavours were made with very 
 little success to introduce the framework-knitting into Italy and Holland. The art, 
 in the mean time, began to flourish in this country, and during the Protectorate, the 
 framework-knitters petitioned Oliver Cromwell, to be incorporated by charter. In 
 this petition, %\hich is composed with much intelligence and spirit, they style them- 
 selves "the promoters and inventors of the art, and mystery or trade of framework- 
 knitting, or making of silk stockings, or other work in a frame or engine.'" — They 
 wrought (as appears by the petition) generally, if not entirely in silk, that material 
 being "the best and richest of all others in use and wearing, and most crediting the 
 artisans, and of the greatest advantage unto this State and Commonwealth, yielding 
 several payments to the use of the State Ijefore it passes out of the hands of the tra- 
 ders therein, and increasing merchandise by both the ways of importation and ex- 
 portation of the self-same material, imported raw at cheap rates ; exported ready 
 wrought at the utmost extent of value : so that the distance of those valuations is 
 totally clear gain to this Commonwealth, and esteemed upwards of six parts in seven 
 of the whole quantity of this material in the highest value thereof, wrought up by 
 this manufacture : which has vindicated that old proverbial aspersion : — Ihe stranger 
 buys of the EnglisUman the case of the for for a groat, and sells him the tail again 
 for a shilling. — And maj" now invent and retort upon them: — The Englishman 
 buys silk of the stranger for ticenttj marks, and sells him the satiie again for one 
 hundred pounds." — Cromwell did not grant the prayer of their petition, but they 
 obtained a charter from Charles II. soon after the Restoration, by which the exercise 
 of their manufacture was restricted to a company, with a jurisdiction extending ten 
 miles round London. In process of time, this company established commissioners 
 in some county towns, where they compelled the country framework-knitters to 
 purchase their freedom ; but a spirited Nottingham artisan determined to try the 
 question in a court of law. In this process, the company was cast, and the stocking 
 manufacture has, since that occurrence, continued to be entirely open. Since the 
 dissolution of the company, the manufacture of stockings gradually declined in 
 London and spread itself into various parts of the country. At Leicester, in par- 
 ticular, it flourished greatly during the early part of the last century, but tlie finest 
 work was made at Nottingham and Derby. Some framework-knitters established 
 themselves at Towcester in Northamptonshire, and at Godalming in Surrey. 
 
 This manufacture, which had been introduced into the town and county some time 
 in the eighteenth century, acquired additional celebrity by the ingenious discovery 
 of Messrs. Jedediah Strutt and William Woollatt, who, in the year 1/58, produced 
 a machine for making ribbed stockings. This was termed the Derby rib. From an 
 imperfect idea furnished by a common workman named Roper, these ingenious gen- 
 tlemen brought this important improvement to jxTfection, and obtained a patent, 
 which gave them the exclusive use of it during a term of fourteen years. A kind of 
 ribbed-work had been introduced in the knitting of stockings, even before the inven- 
 tion of the stocking-frame, and it has been asserted that a pair of ribbed stockings 
 had been made by a man named Wright, at Ilkeston, in the year 1730, and by an old 
 stocking-maker of Dale Abbey. The following account of the invention is from 
 the late William Strutt, esq. F. R. S. " It was Jedediah Strutt, my father, who in- 
 vented the Derby rib machine in the year 17'"i8, or thereabouts. About that time he 
 settled in Derby for the purpose of carrying on the manufacture of ribbed stockings, 
 in conjunction with his brother-in-law, ^Ir. Woollatt, who was then a hosier in that 
 place, and which partnership continued until the death of my father, in the year 1797. 
 A great part of the time during which the patent was in force, IMr. Samuel Need of 
 Nottingham was a partner, under the firm of Need, Strutt and Woollatt. The pa- 
 tent-right was tried twice in Westminster-hall : fir.-.t, with the hosiers of Derby, 
 and afterwards with those of Nottingham ; from which time it was enjoyed quietly 
 to the end of the term." — This improvement has suggested others, and "from it has 
 arisen the art of making open-work mittens and various fanciful articles. 
 
 The stocking frame invented by the Rev. William Lea or Lee, of Calverton, in 
 1589, was very simple, with jacks only, and was a tv:elve-gage : the improvement
 
 INTRODUCTION. XV 
 
 introduced by Aston of Thoroton, who was originally a miller, consisted in applying 
 the lead-sinkers, which are still in use. Needham, a London framework-knitter, 
 placed the trucks on the solebar, and in 171 J, another London workman, named 
 Hardy, added the caster-back and hanging-bits; and thus may be said to iiave 
 brought the stocking frame to all the perfection of which it is capable, for nothing 
 that has subsequently been devised has added any power or facility to its ojierations. 
 The Derby-rib-machine, apjilied to the stocking frame, is known among the frame- 
 work-knitters as the one-and-one, and the two-and-one rib machine; the invention 
 of which, by j\lr. Jedediah Strutt, has been already mentioned. 
 
 The principle of the stocking frame was apjilied to the knitting of various articles 
 in the course of the last century. In 17'!t>, a person named Crane manufactured a 
 rich brocade for waistcoats on a similar frame, and about two years afterwards he 
 attempted vandyke-work, by appending a warp-machine to a plain stocking frame. 
 In I7*i'J, Mr. Robert Frost, who, we believe, is still living at Arnold near Nottingham, 
 invented the figured oilet-hole machine, and in concert with Mr. Thomas Frost, now 
 of Worcester, obtained patents for various inventions, which gradually led to the 
 net and lace frames. 
 
 The first machine for making lace from a stocking frame was contrived in 1777 ; 
 and the invention of it was disputed by Mr. Robert Frost, and a poor operative of 
 Nottingham, of the name of Holmes. This was superseded by the point-net ma- 
 chine, the offspring of the ingenuity of Mr. John Lindley, senior; at whose death, 
 Mr. Thomas Taylor, of Chapel-bar, having improved upon the principle, took out a 
 patent. This subsequently was further improved by Mr. Hiram Flint, i)ut it has 
 been almost wholly superseded by the warp and bobbin net. This last was the in- 
 vention, chiefly, of Mr. James Tarratt, about the year 17i>'i; that ingenious man was 
 very lately resident in the Charter-house, in London. The bobbin and carriage, for 
 making bobbin-nets, is an important invention, and has been claimed by various per- 
 sons, among whom is Mr. John Lindley, resident at Loughborough. The other 
 claimants were George V/hitemore of Nottingham, who died greatly distressed in a 
 London hospital, and Robert Brown, also of Nottingham, who some time before his 
 death fell into a state of melancholy, occasioned by his jiecuniary embarrassments 
 and the failure of his fishing-net and ujjright warp machines. The Ijobhin and car- 
 riage machine was first worked, about the year 17!*!). In 1807, Edward Whittaker 
 of Nottingham made the bobbin and carriage to traverse, after the manner now in 
 use, in the Loughborough and Levers' machines. He died at New Radford, in im- 
 poverished circumstances. The rack was applied to the lace machine by Handley 
 of Nottingham, who was unfortunately poisoned with cantharides, administered to 
 him in a frolic. In the succeeding years, the lace manufacture received numerous 
 improvements, which it would be impossible to particularize with accuracy or dis- 
 tinctness in this compendious ^iew of so interesting a subject : it will be suflicient 
 to sa)', that Mr. William Morley, now of the firm of Boden and Morley, of Derby, 
 introduced the straight-bolt bobliin-net and the circular-bolt bobbin-net machines, 
 both of which are now in use. To the family of the Levers this manufacture is in- 
 debted for various improvements, and indeed the more recent inventions have chiefly 
 consisted of ingenious methods of adapting the Levers' bobbm-net machine to a va- 
 riety of pur])oses ; and in l{i2t), Mr. William Crofts and Mr. John Bertie applied the 
 Levers' machine to make breadths by what is termed a treble-turn-again, which 
 superseded all other methods. Of the Messrs. Levers, the elder died some years ago 
 at New Radford ; his son, Mr. John Levers, resides at Rouen in Normandy ; and 
 his nephew, of the same name, lives at Nottingham. The plat-net machine still in 
 use, was the invention of the unfortunate and misguided Jeremiah Brandreth, who 
 was executed for treason at Derby, November 7, Uil7. 
 
 The lace manufactories of Derbyshire are in number about forty, and they employ 
 eight hundred persons, besides giving employment to between three and four thou- 
 sand females who figure or run the net when it is taken from the loom. Messrs. 
 Boden and Morley, Mr. Johnson and Mr. Wigston work their machines by steam. 
 In Derby alone there are one hundred and thirty-three lace machines, and the quan- 
 tity produced is so immense, that the depression of the business seems to be the 
 necessary consequence of over-production. A rack of net, which at the time of the 
 first patentee sold at a guinea, may be now purchased for a shilling or eighteen pence. 
 
 Silk, it has been noticed, was used as the principal material in hosiery soon after 
 the invention of the stocking frame, but it was not until the beginning of the 
 eighteenth century that the manufacture of that elegant article by machinery upon 
 an extensive scale was introduced into this country. The Italians had i)re\ iously 
 possessed the art of throwing silk by means of machinery, and the French excelled 
 in the fabric of piece-goods. Attemj^ts were made in England to rival these jiroduc- 
 tions, but without success. A person named Crocket endeavoured to throw silk at 
 Derby in the year 1702 ; but his machinery was imperfect, and it was not until 17L">, 
 that a young ingenious and enterprising mechanic, whose name was I^ombe, resolved
 
 XVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 to proceed to Italy and investigate personally the whole process. He encountered 
 many dangers, biit returned to England in 1717, "ith plans and drawings, and ac- 
 comixinied by two Italian workmen. He came immediately to Derby, and rented 
 of the corporation a long swampy island in the Derwent for eight pounds per an- 
 num, and there erected the silk mill, which v as long esteemed a masterpiece of 
 mechanical skill. While tlie mill was building, Mr. Lombe erected temporary ma- 
 chines (turned by hand) in the town hall, and other places, by which he was enabled 
 to pay for the erection of the grand machine, as the work went on. In 171}! he ob- 
 tained a patent for a term of fourteen years; but the Italians were enraged at his 
 success, and he fell a victim to their vengeance, in the year 1723; it being supposed 
 that a slow poison, administered to him by an artful woman from that country, oc- 
 casioned his death at the early age of twenty-nine. One of the Italians who had 
 accompanied Mr. Lombe froin Italy, and whose name was Gartrevalli, remained at 
 Derby for some time, and afterwards worked at a silk miU which liad been estab- 
 lished at Stockport, where he died in poverty. 
 
 Mr. .lohn Lombe was succeeded by his brother William, a young man of a melan- 
 choly disposition, who committed suicide. The property then became the inheri- 
 tance of ^!r. Thomas Lombe, the cousin of the enterprising founder of it, and was 
 conducted with much spirit and success; for about the year 1730, the works are 
 said to have employed more than three hundred persons. In 1722, the patent ex- 
 l)ired, and the proprietor jietitioned parliament for its renewal, alleging " that the 
 works had been so long a time in perfecting, and the people in teaching, that there 
 had been none to acquire emohunent from the patent." The application was not 
 successful, but a remunerating grant of £14,000. was voted to him, and a model of 
 the works was ordered to be deposited in the Tower of London. The proprietor was 
 also introduced at court, and had the honour of knighthood conferred ujx)n him. He 
 did not long enjoy this reward of wealtli and honour. On the 3rd of .January, 1739, 
 he expired, leaving to his widow an accumulated property, valued at little less than 
 i,T20,UtiO. On the 20th of February, 173!l, the lease of the silk mill was assigned 
 from Lady Lombe to Richard Wilson, esq. and the whole of the works were in the 
 following July transferred to that gentleman for the sum of £'4000. These premises 
 were occupied for many years by Mr. Swift, who inade many important additions 
 to the machinery. The lease expired in 1803 ; and the mill "is now in the occupa- 
 tion of Mr. William Taylor; who has entirely renewed the works, with numerous 
 important improvements. On >L-irch 14, 182f), a fire broke out in the upper part of 
 the old mill and did very considerable damage. 
 
 In th'is preparatory sketch, we cannot pretend to describe this extraordinary com- 
 bination of mechanism, except in a very cursory manner. The length of the build- 
 ing is one hundred and ten feet ; its breadth thirty-nine feet ; and its height fifty- 
 five feet and a half. It contains five stories, besides the under-works, and is lighted 
 by four hundred and sixty-eight windows. The whole of the rooms are (illed with 
 machinery constructed on the most modern principle. This elaborate machine (for 
 one only it is) though occupying five apartments, is put in motion by a single 
 water-wheel, twenty-three feet in diameter. All operations are performed here, 
 from winding the raw silk to organzining or preparing it for the weavers. 
 
 Besides this original mill at Derby for the throw ing of silk, there are twelve others 
 in that town, and in the other parts of the county, at Glossop, Chesterfield, &;c. there 
 are five or six. In this branch of the silk trade, between two and three thousand 
 hands are employed, a great proportion of whom are children and young women. 
 The wages differ with respect to age, sex and capacity from 2*. or '6s. per week to 
 about 2iis. 
 
 The weaving of piece-goods in silk was first introduced into Derby by ^Ir. William 
 Taylor, at his factory in Hag-lane, about eight or nine years ago. His example 
 was followed by Messrs. Bridget and Son, and by Messrs. Ambrose Moore and 
 Co. and now sarcenets, gros-de-naples and other rich silks are manufactured, in a 
 style equal to those made by the weavers of Spitalfields. There are now about two 
 hundred and twenty looms in work. The number of hands employed in this branch 
 is about three hundred. 
 
 Messrs. James and C. S. Peet introduced the weaving of narrow piece-goods into 
 Derby in 1823 : they erected a large factory and fitted it up with looms and ma- 
 chinery, constructed with great ingenuity by Mr. Isaac Peet ; to which they applied 
 steam-power for the weaving of silk ferrets, galloons, doubles, ^cc. The Messrs. 
 Peet are also considerable manufacturers of silk hose. The other ribbon weavers 
 are Messrs. Smith, Bosley and Smith at Glossop, and Mr. Ralph Frost of Derby. The 
 latter has erected a handsome mill on the banks of the Derwent. The number of 
 hands employed in this manufacture amount to upwards of four hundred. 
 
 The rapid rise of the cotton manufacture in this country is a subject of astonish- 
 ment to other nations ; and has been justly termed one of the greatest triumphs of 
 enterprise aided by mechanical genius. Long after the middle of the last century,
 
 INTRODUCTIOX. XVll 
 
 the cotton manufacture was in its infancy ; it " xow forms the principal support 
 and bulwark of the country, affording an advantageous Held for the accumulation 
 and employment of millions upon millions of capital, and of thousands upon thou- 
 sands of workmen."* The manufacture of cotton was probably introduced into 
 England in the early part of the seventeenth century, but down to the comparatively 
 late period of 177i5,"the weft only was cotton, and the manufacturers were dispersed 
 in cottages throughout the country. They continued to labour under the disadvan- 
 tage of imjiorting linen-yarn for the warp or longitudinal threads of the fabric, while 
 no additional supplies of cotton-yarn could be j)rocured for weft, but by facilitating 
 the processes of carding and sjnnning. The desired improvements originated with 
 an illiterate, but most ingenious and inventive mechanic, named James Hargraves, 
 a carpenter at Blackburn in Lancashire. He adapted the stock cards, used in the 
 woollen manufacture, to the carding of cotton. The carding-machine soon succeeded 
 Hargraves' invention ; and was brought into use by Mr. Peel, the grandfather of the 
 present Sir Robert Peel, iM. P. aboutthe year 1702. Sir Richard Arkwright added 
 some imin-ovements to the carding-engine, but spinning by hand still contumed to be 
 an operation too tedious to fulfil the c'xpectations of enterprising men, and in 17ti/, 
 Hargraves constructed a machine called a spinning-jenny, which enabled a spiimer 
 to spin eifjht threads with the same facility that one had previously been spun ; and 
 the machine was subsequently brought to such perfection as to enable a little girl to 
 work no fewer than from efahlij to one hundred and twenty spindles. Hargraves 
 thus opened the way to those .splendid inventions and discoveries that have created 
 and sustained a vast current of public and individual wealth beyond any thing re- 
 corded in the history of the world ; but to himself, his inventions were productive 
 of bankruptcy and ruin, and, to the indelible disgrace of his age and country, he was 
 suffered lo end his days, even after the merit of his inventions had been universally 
 acknowledged, in the workhouse at Nottingham. 
 
 Still the jenni/ was applicable only to the spinning of cotton for weft, being unable 
 to give to the yarn that degree of firmness and hardness which is re<iuired in the 
 longitudinal threads or warp. This deficiency was supplied by the invention of the 
 spinnini/ machine, constructed by Sir Richard Arkwright. That extraordinary indi- 
 vidual was born at Preston in Lancashire, in 1732. He was the youngest of thirteen 
 children and was bred to the trade of a barber. In very early life he turned his 
 attention to mechanism ; but he followed bis original trade until he was thirty-live 
 years of age, at Bolton-le-Moors in the county of Lancaster. About that period 
 "he became an itinerant hair-dealer, and formed an acquaintance with a clock- 
 maker at Warrington of the name of Kay, to whom he seems to have imparted 
 his ideas, and in conjunction with whom he put together the first machine for spin- 
 ning by means of rollers. It was some time before this ingenious man could procure 
 the aid of capital. He applied in vain to a Mr. Atherton of Liverpool, but at length 
 the celebrated Jedediah Strutt of Derby, who, by the invention of the Derby rib, was 
 acquiring a fortune in the stocking manufacture, having seen Arkwright's inven- 
 tions, entered into partnership with him. In 17fi9, the first mill, upon Arkwright's 
 principle, was erected at Nottingham. This was driven by horses. A patent for 
 spinning by rollers was obtained, and in 1771 a second factory, on a much larger 
 scale, was built at Cromford in this county ; the machinery of which was turned by 
 a water-wheel. Additional discoveries and improvements were made, and a fresh 
 patent for the whole was taken out in 177o- 'Ihe success which attended Ibis inven- 
 tion excited the emulation of the Lancashire maraifacturers, and in 177- they at- 
 tempted to set the first patent aside, on the ground that Sir Richard Arkwright was 
 not the original inventor. This allegation \\'as unsupported by evidence, and the 
 action at lavv terminated in a verdict which confirmed the validity of the patent — 
 In 1781, Sir Richard Arkwright's second patent, obtained in 177o was attacked, and 
 a verdict was obtained against him, not on the ground of any prior invention, but 
 because he had not given a sufficiently diatinct description of the machinery in the 
 specification. On another trial in 17t>."), a verdict was given in favour of Sir Richard 
 Arkwright; but a third action followed in .lune of the same year, in which the 
 patent was contested on the ground of a prior invention, as well as that of imperfect 
 specification. In support of the former, a reed-maker, of Bolton, named Higiis or 
 Hayes, was, for the first time, brought forward, who asserted that he had invented 
 a machine for spinning by rollers previously to 17*if>, and that he had employed Kay, 
 the watchmaker at Warrington, to make a model of the machine. Kay was brought 
 forward to jjrove that he had communicated that model to Arkwright. A verdict 
 was given against the patent, and the court, at the latter end of the same year, re- 
 fused to grant a new trial. There is, however, great improbability in the story told 
 
 * E'linlnirgh Review for June, IS'JT. An excellent article upon the British cotton manufacture, to 
 which we Axe jiulebtcil for mucli of tiic substance of our briyf abstract, rcsjjoctinj; this important 
 branch of trade.
 
 XVlll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 by Highs and Kay ; and it is difficult to suppose that if Highs was in reality the in- 
 ventor, he would not have come forward on the first trial in 177^, hut have remained 
 sixteen years, a passive spectator of such astonishing success, accom])lished by means 
 of which he pretended to he the originator. The most intimate friends of Sir Richard 
 Arkwright, and those best ac((uainted with his character, never entertained the 
 sligiitest doubt with respect to the originality of the invention. 
 
 On tlie first introduction of the machines, upon Sir Richard Arkwright's principle, 
 the factories containing them were subjected to the reiterated attacks of the labour- 
 ing classes ; and what was still more extraordinary, the manufacturers themselves 
 displayed the greatest animosity towards these inventions, and unanimously refused 
 to purchase the yarn made by them. In 1774, when Messrs. Strutt and Need- 
 ham had established a manufacture of calicoes, the manufacturers of Lancashire 
 opjiosed, without success, the encouragement intended by the legislature on these 
 " fabrics made of cotton lately introduced," which the act pronounced to be "a law- 
 ful and laudable manufacture." — Yet, notwithstanding an opposition, in which liti- 
 gation and mob-violence were freejuently allied. Sir Richard Arkwright acquired a 
 princely fortune ; and on presenting an address to George the Third, in the year UBK, 
 when he served the office of sheriff for Derliyshire, the honour of knighthood was 
 conferred upon him. He had never enjoyed good health, and on the third of August, 
 in the year 179-, he closed his truly useful life at Cromford, in the sixtieth year of 
 his age. 
 
 The mule-jenny, so called from its being a compound of the jenny and the spin- 
 ning frame, was invented by Mr. Samuel Crompton, of Bolton-le-Moors, in 1775. 
 All sorts of wefts are now spun by this machine. The inventor of this machine per- 
 fected it gradually, and took out no patent to secure him a reward for his labour. 
 In 1812, lie applied to j)arliament for a remuneration, and it was shown that upwards 
 of four millions of spindles on his principle were used in buildings and machinery 
 valued at from three to four millions sterling. Parliament voted him the very in- 
 adequate sum of £5000 In 1792, Mr. William Kelly, of Glasgow, discovered a 
 
 mode of working the mule, which had previously been a hand-machine, by mechanical 
 power. 
 
 The power-loom, for the weaving of cotton, was the invention of the Rev. Mr. 
 Cartwright, 'a clergyman of Kent, who took out a patent for his invention in 17557 ; 
 and the progress of power-loom weaving was greatly aided by a beautiful machine 
 for dressing the yarn used as warps, which is now called Ratcliffe's dressing ma- 
 chine, but was invented by Mr. Thomas Johnson of Bradbury — There are now up- 
 wards of fjOjOOO power-looms in Great Britain. At the accession of George the Third, 
 in 17f)0, the entire value of all the cotton goods, manufactured in Great Britain, was 
 estimated to amount to £200,000. a year, and the number of persons employed was 
 quite inconsiderable. But after the invention of the jenny and the spinning machine, 
 the quantity of cotton imported, the value of goods manufactured, and the number 
 of persons employed, increased in a geometrical proportion. The imports from 1771 
 to 1775, amounted on an average to 4,7^4,589 lbs. and from that period to the disso- 
 lution of Sir Richard Arkwright's second patent in 1785, the annual average imports 
 had increased to 7,470,845 lbs. In 1824, Mr. Huskisson stated to the House of Com- 
 mons, that the total value of the cotton goods annually manufactured in Great Britain 
 amounted to the prodigious sum of 31.^ millions ; and we shall certainly not exceed 
 the truth, if we estimate their present value at 40 millions. 
 
 We shall not attempt to trace the cotton manufactory of Derbyshire, earlier than 
 the erection of the mill at Cromford, by Sir Richard Arkwright, in 1771- There are 
 now two mills at Cromford and a third at Masson, which was also built by Sir Rich- 
 ard Arkwright. In these are employed about fifteen hundred persons, of which 
 four-fifths are women and children. At Bel[)er are the cotton mills of the Messrs. 
 Strutt. There were formerly three mills upon the Derwent at this place, the first 
 of which was erected by Mr. .ledediah Strutt, in the year 177'i' Two of these are 
 now standing, but the third was destroyed by fire in 1803. The principal of these 
 mills is two hundred feet long, thirty feet wide and six stories high. At these mills 
 about fifteen hundred hands are constantly employed. There are also three cotton 
 mills at Millford, belonging to the same j)roprietors, where about five hundred per- 
 sons are emjiloyed in the manufacture of cotton-thread. The Messrs. Evans employ 
 between five and six hundred persons at Darley Abbey, near Derby. There are in 
 the whole county at present about one hundred and twelve mills for the same manu- 
 facture, employing in the whole, not less than twenty thousand persons. 
 
 Tiie parish of Glossop, situate amidst the most mountainous tracts of the High 
 Peak, has become, within little more than forty years, one of the most important 
 seats of manufacture within Derbyshire. Of thehundred and twelve cotton mills 
 existing at present in this county, there are fifty-six in Glossop parish, without 
 reckoning five other similar mills, upon or beyond the boundary rivers. In the 
 hamlets connected with this parish, an immense number of manufactures and rising
 
 INTRODUCTION. XIX 
 
 trades of various descriptions are scattered. Calico-weaving is carried on in eleven 
 of these hamlets, and calico-printing in four. In seven of these places, where in the 
 year IJ'iO there were only a few hovels and here or there a farm-stead, there are now 
 establishments for woollen cloth spinning, weaving and dressing; and throughout 
 these hamlets, there are numerous factories for muslin, cambric and fustian weaving ; 
 for bleaching and dyeing; for hat-making; paper-making and tanning; besides 
 smithies, and iron- works of every description. In the last quarter of the last century 
 there was but one mill in the whole of this district, and that was employed in grind- 
 ing the scanty crop of oats into meal for the food of a few agricultural inhabitants. 
 — The late Samuel Oldknow, esq. was one of the earliest manufacturing settlers in 
 this vicinity. He found a powerful stream coursing its way through a deep dell, and 
 instantly perceived the advantages to be derived from it. He established himself 
 near Mellor ; and his example and success in business soon procured him many 
 neighbours, until the banks of the Goyte and the Etherow became the busy scenes 
 of industrious, enter])rising and ingenious men. 
 
 The first mill built by Mr. Oldknow was upon the Arkwright principle, and he im- 
 proved the fineness of the threads. Having accomplished this object in the spinning, 
 he applied it to the weaving of British muslins, and constructed mills for that pur- 
 pose, which he executed by the power-loom. Mr. Oldknow was ever active in public 
 pursuits, and the Peak-Forest canal originated chiefiy with liim. Towards the close 
 of his useful existence he occupied himself much in agricultural pursuits, and at his 
 lamented death, which happened in September, l!i21i, he left the valley of Glossop 
 improved in its agricultural produce, as well as enriched by manufacture; and it 
 may be also said, that what he found a desert, he left, comparatively, a city and a 
 
 garden The principal manufacturers now resident in that district will be seen by 
 
 reference to Glover's Directory. Mr. J. Wood, and Messrs. J. and W. Sidebottom are 
 considered as the most eminent power-loom manufacturers, which looms they employ 
 in the fabric of calicoes and muslins. Calico printing is here carried on extensively : 
 it is performed with cylindrical copper rollers, on which the figures are engraved. 
 The process of this mode of printing is so rapid that pieces of twenty-eight yards are 
 thrown off from each set of rollers in less than two minutes. This art was greatly 
 improved by Mr. .lohn Potts, of the house of Potts, Oliver and Potts. This gentleman 
 was an artist himself, and having studied the different shades of colour produced 
 upon the blue ware in the potteries, he was enabled to bring the art of calico- 
 printing to a perfection of which previously it had not been supposed to be 
 capable. 
 
 In a county which is rising so rapidly in manufacturing interest, the business of 
 bleaching and that of dyeing become necessarily important. It appears indeed that 
 Derbyshire was distinguished in very early times for its fullers and bleachers. There 
 are bleaching-houses and grounds in about eighteen towns and villages. We have 
 already mentioned those at Millford and Glossop. One of the most eminent in the 
 county is that of Mr. John Garton, at l^umsdale near Matlock. Grass-bleaching is 
 carried on by Messrs. Hewitt, Longson and Co. at New Brampton, and by Mr. 
 Radford at Higham. 
 
 Of the other branches of industry in which the inhabitants of Derbyshire are chiefly 
 employed, we must not omit mention of tape, ferrets and small-wares. Manufacto- 
 ries of this nature were introduced in the town of Derby about a quarter of a century 
 ago, by Riley, Madeley, Hackett and Co. and the manufacture of tape is now carried 
 on by different firms, which have all originated in the Haarlem works, in Derby. 
 There are nine mills in the county, at which about nine hundred persons are employed. 
 The porcelain or china manufactory of Derby has placed the reputation of this 
 country on a level with that of Saxony or France for the production of this elegant 
 article ; and superior to any other, for the finish and taste of the execution. This 
 manufacture was introduced here about the year IJ^iO, by Mr. W. Ducsbury, who 
 fabricated numerous elegant and costly articles, among which was an elegant dessert 
 service, consisting of one hundred and twenty pieces, for his late .Majesty, when 
 Prince of Wales. The fineness of the material has subsequently been greatly in- 
 creased, and much superiority in the colouring has been attained. The blue and 
 gold had been brought to the highest degree of beauty, and now the green, in which 
 alone this porcelain was surpassed by foreigners, is possessed of the highest de- 
 gree of delicacy and lustre. The body of this elegant ware is fine clay, combined 
 with fluxes, and is chiefly brought from Cornwall. The best kind is com])letely 
 fusible. The biscuit figures are jieculiar to this manufacture, and are in high esti- 
 mation in almost every part of the globe. The urns, vases and ewers produced in 
 this manufactory are from classical designs and are adorned with land^capes, por- 
 traits and figures by some very superior artists. Among the splendid services exe- 
 cuted at the Derby china works, the following may be enuineratcd ; — one for the 
 Earl of Shrewsbury, embellished with fruit subjects, upon a rich ground of the 
 chrome-green ; another for the Duke of Devonshire, which was enriched with ori-
 
 XX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ginal views of Chatsworth, Hardwick, &c. Elegant services for Lord Muncaster 
 and for Lord Ongley, were richly and tastefully embellished with historical designs. 
 In 18iy, a service consisting of numerous bowls and dishes, for the Persian ambas- 
 sador, was executed in a style of superior splendour : the ground was gold, chased 
 and inscribed with Persian characters. 
 
 Red earthenware i^ made at Alfreton, Church Gresley and at Ticknall. At Swad- 
 lingcote and Hartshorn, white and yellow ware is manufactured. Near Chesterfield 
 there are extensive factories for white, brown and red ware; and in the same 
 neighbourhood large water-pipes for drains are made. At Belper-gutter and Denby, 
 there are two manufactories for stone ware, bottles, pitchers, &c. 
 
 The clock and watch manufactories of Derby employ about sixty persons. Messrs. 
 Whitehurst and Son, who conduct an extensive business in this line, are relatives 
 of the celebrated geologist, natural philosopher and able mechanic, Mr. John White- 
 hurst, l-". R. S. That eminent man settled at Derby about the year 1740, where he 
 made the clock and chimes of All Saints church and the clock of the Town Hall ; on 
 which account the corporation presented to him the freedom of the borough. He was 
 subsequently appointed inspector of weights and measures in London, where he died 
 in Februarj', l/HS, in his seventy-fifth year. The present Messrs. Whitehurst have 
 made clocks for many of the halls belonging to the nobility and gentry of this and 
 other counties, which are remarkable for their accuracy. They have also made 
 a clock with chimes for Burton old church, and clocks for many churches in this and 
 other counties which are universally admired. The watches of Messrs. Brookhouse, 
 Woodward, Mr. TunniclifT. and other manufacturers are highly esteemed, and 
 have become articles of extensive exportation. The clock-brasses made at Ash- 
 bourn are in very high repute. 
 
 There is a curious and interesting mill for the manufacture of common screws, at 
 Hartshorn, belonging to Messrs. Snnth, Port. Wood and Co. It was originally a 
 branch of a similar manufactory at Burton-upon-Trent. Numerous hands are em- 
 ployed, and many hundred gross are made per week, by means of engines and lathes, 
 turned by a water-wheel. These screws are of various sizes, weighing from half an 
 ounce to thirty pounds per gross. Manj- children are employed, and wages vary 
 according to age and dexterity. 
 
 Among the remaining manufactures, which are too numerous to particularize, it 
 ■will suffice to name the paper-mills, the principal of which are at Darley Abbey, 
 Chapel-en-le-Frith, Hayfield, Little Eaton and Matlock. These employ up'wards of 
 three hundred persons. Printing has been carried on in all its branches in Derby, Ches- 
 terfield, is.c. for many years past ; and at Derby. Messrs. Mozley and Son, have long 
 been established as Wholesale Printers, and at the present time employ sixty -seven 
 hands. There are also colour-mills, plaster of Paris mills, and mills for Roman 
 cement. Hat-making is carried on at Lea-wood, at which place the government 
 has, during many years, contracted for soldiers' military caps, helmets, &c. Mr. 
 Walker is'"the proprietor of this establishment. Fine hats are also made at the 
 same manufactory. Hat making is also an extensive business at Chesterfield, JMat- 
 lock, Wirksworth, Alfreton, &.C — Tanners, fellmongers and leather-dressers are 
 
 established in the principal towns Messrs. Cocker and Sons, at Hathersage, are 
 
 celebrated as needle-makers. 
 
 Thus it will be seen that Derbyshire is entitled to take an elevated rank in the 
 trade, wealth and industry of the kingdom. Some writers have placed it as the fourth 
 amongst the counties of England with respect to manufactures ; and we may ven- 
 ture to assert, that its character is rising in national estimation. In agriculture it is 
 upon an equality at least with the most favoured districts; and its cheeses in par- 
 ticular are sought for in other counties. The chief articles exported for sale beyond 
 the limits of the county, appear to be cotton twist and stockings, silk-thread and 
 stockings, calicoes and muslins, frame-lace, hats ; coals, iron, edge-tools and imple- 
 ments, nails, lead, red and white lead, building-stone and marble, lime, gypsum, 
 calamine, chert, iluor spar, copperas, grind and mill-stones, fire-clay, bricks, slate- 
 stone ; and, among other articles of agricultural produce, wool and cheese — In aid of 
 its transit trade or commerce, Derbyshire possesses the Trent, and the Trent and 
 Mersey navigation ; the Peak Forest, Cromford, Erewa.-h, Chesterfield and Derby 
 canals. There is now in progress the High Peak railway, which will extend from 
 Cromford to Whaley Bridge on the Goyte, where it will meet the Peak Forest canal. 
 — The import trade of the county may be considered as consisting chiefly of the raw 
 material for its cotton and silk factories, of groceries and wines, and of other articles 
 of foreign growth, with a few manufactured goods of the peculiar produce of other 
 counties.
 
 ALPHABETICAL LIST 
 
 OF THK 
 
 PRINCIPAL SEATS, HALLS, MANSIONS, etc. 
 
 THE RESIDENCE OF THE 
 
 NOBILITY, GENTRY AND CLERGY 
 
 of the County of Derby. 
 
 RESIDEXCE. 
 
 Aldercar Hall 
 Alderwasley Hall 
 
 Alfreton Hall 
 
 I'icarage 
 
 AUestree Hall 
 Alvaston Hall 
 
 Appleby 
 
 Hall 
 
 Asliboum 
 
 HaU 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Ashjord HaU 
 
 Ashgate 
 
 Ashovcr Rectory 
 Aston Hall 
 
 Lodge 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Allow 
 liakewell 
 
 Vicarage .. 
 
 Bank HaU 
 Banner Cross 
 Barlborough Hall .. 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Barrow Hall 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Barton Blount 
 
 Park- 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Baslow 
 BcaucMef HaU 
 
 Beighton 
 
 Vicarage ... 
 
 Fields 
 
 Belper 
 
 Gutter 
 
 Birdholme 
 
 Blachwall 
 
 BlackweU Vicarage ... 
 Bladen Wood Hmise 
 Bolsover Castle 
 
 Bonsall Rectory 
 
 BouUon 
 
 DISTANCE, 
 in the parish of lleanor 
 2 miles E of Wirksworth 
 
 13 miles N of Derby 
 
 2iJ miles N of Derby 
 5 miles S of Derby 
 5 miles W of Ashby 
 
 13 miles N W of Derby . 
 
 2^ miles N of Bakewell . 
 
 3 miles E of Chesterfield . 
 7 miles N of Wirksworth 
 5 miles S of Derby 
 
 5 miles E of Ashbourn 
 26 miles NW of Derby 
 
 1 mile W of Chapcl-cn-le-Frith 
 10 miles N of t:hesterfield 
 
 8 miles E of Chesterfield 
 7 miles E of Chesterfield 
 5 miles S of Derby 
 
 9 miles W of Derby 
 
 4 miles E of Bakewell 
 
 8 miles N of Chesterfield 
 
 9 miles NE of Chesterfield 
 
 near Barlbrough 
 
 8 miles N of Derby 
 
 1 mile N of Helper 
 
 3 miles S of Chesterfield ... 
 
 3 miles .SVV of Wirkswortli 
 
 3 miles NE of Alfreton ... 
 
 10 miles SVV of Derby 
 
 6 miles SE of Chesterfield 
 
 3 miles NW of Wirksworth 
 3 miles S of Derby 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 Rev. John Smith 
 
 Kraneis Hurt, esq. 
 
 Franeis Hurt, jun. esq. 
 
 William Palmer Morewood, esq. 
 
 Uev. John I'tpper 
 
 William Evans, esq. 
 
 Joseph Wheeldon, esq. 
 
 Rev. Cieorge Lloyd, D. D. 
 
 John Mdore, esq. 
 
 Rev. Jervas Browne 
 
 Thurstan Dale, esq. 
 
 Robert Dale, esq. 
 
 William Webster, esq. 
 
 John Beresford, esq. 
 
 John Brittlebank, esq. 
 
 Peter Bainbrigge, esq. 
 
 Richard B. Manclarke, esq. 
 
 Rev. Edward lleathcote 
 
 Rev. Thomas Gibbs 
 
 Rev. Paul Belcher, M. A. 
 
 Rev. Walter Shirley 
 
 Sir William Boothby, bart. 
 
 Rev. Samuel .Shipley 
 
 Duke of Devonshire, occupied by 
 William Ashby Ashby, esq. 
 
 John Gorrell Barnes, esq. 
 
 Rev. Lawrence Short 
 
 E. A. Holden, esq. 
 
 William Drury Holden, esq. 
 
 Rev. N. P. Johnson 
 
 Rev. J. Atkins 
 
 Thomas Walthall, esq. 
 
 Richard Walthall, esq. 
 
 Richard Kcynicr, esq. 
 
 Rev. John Brown 
 
 Rev. James Coates 
 Rev. Francis Hodgson 
 late Samuel Frith, esq. 
 
 Rev. Bagshaw 
 
 Rev. C H. R. Rodes 
 
 Rev. Stapleton 
 
 John Beaumont, esq. 
 
 Rev. Ileacock 
 
 John Webb, escj. 
 
 Francis Bradshaw, esq. 
 
 Rev. G. P. Lowthcr 
 
 Rev. A. A. Barker 
 
 Peter Pegge Burnell, esq. occupied 
 
 by Brouphton Steadc, esq. 
 Rev. Joseph Dixon 
 Hon. and Rev. 'I'homas Erskinc 
 John Bruno Bowden, esq. 
 Rev. Matthew Tunstall 
 Rev. D. P. Davies 
 James Hunloke, esq. 
 John Blackwall, esq. 
 Rev. Thomas Cursham, D. D. 
 Abraham Moskins, e.s(i. 
 Duke of Portland, occupied by the 
 
 Rev. William Tinslcy 
 Ifev. T. S. Basnett, occupied by 
 
 the Rev. Henry Sim 
 William Brown Darwin, esq.
 
 NOBLEMEN AND 
 
 IlESIDENCE. 
 
 Bowbridfre 
 
 Bnwdtn Hall 
 DnyLiton Rectory 
 liradtmrnc Rectory 
 Bradley Hall 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Braihfurd 
 
 Brampton 
 
 Brassingion Hall 
 Breadsall Priory 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Brcthy HaU 
 Bridge Hill ... 
 Briminglon ... 
 
 Broohfidd Hall 
 
 Brnokhdl HaU 
 
 Brougliton House, Shardlow 
 Bubnell 
 
 Burr House 
 Butt House ... 
 Uutterley Hall 
 Buxton 
 
 Calhe Abbey ... 
 Carnjield Hall 
 
 Castle Fields ... 
 Castle ton 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Cation Hall ... 
 
 Cauldwell Hall 
 Cavendisli Bridge 
 
 Cftaddesden ... 
 
 Hall 
 
 Chapel-en-le-Frith 
 C/iapel Mi/ton 
 Cliatsworth House 
 Chesterfield ... 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Clill'Hoiise 
 
 Codnor Castle 
 
 Coneygree HaU 
 
 Colon in Vie Elms 
 
 Cnxbencli 
 
 Cric/i Vicarage 
 
 Croxall Vicarage ... ... 
 
 Cutt/wrpc Hall 
 
 Datbury and Trusley Rectory 
 Darley Abbey 
 
 Hall 
 in the 
 
 Dale Hall ... 
 Rectory... 
 
 Dinby Old HaU 
 
 Derby 
 
 , Abbot's HiU ... 
 
 , Asfibonrn Road 
 
 , Becket WeU Lane 
 
 , Bridge Gate 
 
 , Castle Street 
 
 , Curn-Marlcet 
 
 , Elms 
 
 DISTANCE. 
 
 3 miles NW of Derby 
 
 near Chapel-eii-le-Frith 
 
 9 miles W of Derby 
 
 .5 miles NE of Ashbouni 
 
 5 miles E of Ashbourn 
 
 7 miles N of Derby 
 
 3 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 •2 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 4 miles W of Wirksworth 
 
 3 miles NE of Derby 
 
 3 miles NE of Derby 
 
 10 miles S\V of Derby 
 
 near Belper 
 
 near Chesterfield 
 
 4 miles NE of Castleton 
 
 2 miles NE of Alfreton 
 
 7 miles S of Derby 
 
 4 miles E of Bakewell 
 
 Bakewell 
 
 3 miles SW of Ashby-de-la-Zouch 
 
 3 miles S of Alfreton 
 
 58 miles NW of Derby 
 
 10 miles S of Derby 
 IJ mile N of Alfreton 
 
 Derby 
 
 5 miles E of Chapel-en-le-Frith . 
 
 7 milesNW of Burton ... 
 
 6 miles NW of Burton 
 
 7 miles S of Derby 
 
 i'j m. E of Derby 
 
 40 miles NW of Derby ... 
 
 2 miles N of Chapel-en-le-Frith . 
 
 3 miles SE of Bakewell ... 
 24 miles N of Derby 
 
 1 mile N of Matlock Bath 
 
 in ruins (site of) 
 
 5 miles W of Derby 
 
 8 miles SW of Burton 
 
 5 miles N of Derby 
 
 4 miles E of Wirksworth 
 
 9 miles W of Burton 
 
 2 miles S of Chesterfield 
 9 miles W of Dtrby 
 
 1 mile N of Derby 
 
 5 miles S of Bakewell 
 
 7 miles NE of Derby 
 
 126 miles N N W of London 
 
 NAMES. 
 Robert Newton, esq. 
 James Uibberson, esq. 
 Rev. Thomas Gell 
 Rev. German Buckston 
 Godfrey Mcynell, esq. 
 
 Rev Skynner 
 
 Edward Sorcsby Cox, esq. 
 Rev. A. Norman 
 Rev. William Peach 
 John Dixon, esq. 
 William Melland, estj. 
 William Charlton, esq. 
 Mrs. Darwin 
 Rev. Joseph Dewe 
 Earl of C:tiesterfield 
 George Benson Strutt, esq. 
 John Richard Cox, esq. 
 Lucas Maynard, esq. 
 James Holworthy, esq. 
 
 D'Ewes Coke, esq. 
 James Sutton, esq. 
 Robert Oarker, gent. 
 John Gardom, gent. 
 John Barker, esq. 
 Lord Tamvvorth 
 William Jessop, esq. 
 Philip Heacock, esq. 
 George Goodwin, gent. 
 
 Rev. James Miller 
 
 Sir George Crewe, bart. 
 
 Sir John Eardley Wilmot, bart. 
 occupied by Joseph Wilson, esq. 
 
 Henry Moore, esq. 
 
 Isaac Hall. esq. 
 
 Rev. Charles Cecil Bates 
 
 Rt. Hon. Robert Wilmot Horton, 
 M. P. 
 
 John Evans, esq. 
 
 James Soresby, esq. 
 
 W. C Flack, esq. 
 
 Rev. Richard Wilmot 
 
 Henry Sacheverel Wilmot, esq. 
 
 Rev. Samuel Grundy 
 
 Rev. E. Glossop 
 
 Duke of Devonshire 
 
 (.'harles Dakeyne Gladwin, esq. 
 
 Richard Calton, esq. 
 
 Bernard Lucas Maynard, esq. 
 
 Edward Gilling Maynard, esq. 
 
 William Waller, esq. 
 
 Gilbert Crompton, esq. 
 
 Samuel Dutton, esq, 
 
 John Charge, esq. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Field 
 
 Rev. Thomas Hill 
 
 Richard Leacroft, esq. 
 
 C. L. H. Masters, esq. 
 
 A. N. E. Mosley, esq. 
 
 Rt. Hon. Robtrt Wilmot Horton, 
 occupied by W. VVorthington,csq. 
 
 Johnson, esq. M. D. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Cornthwaite 
 
 Rev. H. Hal worthy 
 
 Captain Wright 
 
 Rev. Charles Cotton 
 
 Robert Holden, esq. occupied by 
 Mrs. Hateman 
 
 Rev. J. H. Dickenson 
 
 Rev. John Batenian 
 
 Allen Sacheverel Bateman, esq. 
 
 Walter Evans, esq. 
 
 George Potter, esq. 
 
 Rev. Benjamin Lawrence 
 
 Rev. Solomon Saxton 
 
 Richard Dalton, es<i. 
 
 R. F. Forester, esq. M. D. 
 Samuel Rowland, esq. 
 Hev. James Gawthorne 
 Thomas Bingham, esq. 
 Rev. John C'halinor 
 Rev. J. Rligh 
 Rev. R. R. Ward 
 Rev. C. R. Hope
 
 gentlemen's residences. 
 
 RESIDENCE. 
 
 Derby, Exeter House 
 , Friar Gate ... 
 
 . Friary ... 
 
 , Full Street ... 
 
 , Greenhill House 
 , Grove Cottage 
 , Iron Gate 
 
 , Kedleston Road 
 
 , Ley lands 
 I Liudge Lane ... 
 , London Street 
 , Marhet-Place 
 . North Parade 
 , OsmastoJi Road 
 Street 
 
 , Queen Street 
 
 , St. Alkmund's Ch. Yd. 
 
 , St. Helen's House ... 
 
 , St. Mar if s Gate House 
 , St. Micimees Ch. Yd. 
 , St. Peter's House 
 
 Street ... 
 
 , Tenant Street 
 
 DISTANCE. 
 126 miles N NW of London 
 
 , Willow Row 
 
 , Windmill Hill 
 
 Derwent Halt 
 Doveridge Halt 
 
 Th-aJceloiv Hall 
 Draycott House 
 Droiifield 
 
 ■ Hall 
 
 ■ Vicarage 
 
 Duffield 
 
 Banlc 
 
 Hall 
 
 House 
 
 Durant Hall 
 Eccles House ... 
 Eckington Rectory 
 Edale 
 
 Edertsor Vicarage 
 Edge Hill 
 Edge Moor 
 Edhighall 
 Edlaston Rectory 
 Ediuiston Lodge 
 Egsint07i Hall 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Elvastnn Hall 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Etwall 
 
 in the parish of Hathersage 
 17 miles NW of Derby ... 
 
 13 miles SW of Derby 
 
 6 miles E of Derby 
 
 6 miles N of Chesterfield 
 
 4 miles N of Derby 
 
 'l.J miles 
 
 near Chesterfield ... 
 near Chajiel-en-le-Frith 
 
 7 miles E of Chesterfield 
 near Castleton 
 
 3 miles E of Bakewell 
 
 4 miles N of Derby 
 near Buxton 
 
 9 miles .SVV of Burton 
 
 3 miles W of Ashbourn 
 9 miles N of Derby 
 
 8 miles SW of Derby 
 
 4 miles SE of Derby 
 6 miles W of Derby 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 William Eaton Mousley, esq. 
 
 Thomas Cox, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Hurt 
 
 Mrs. Heatheote 
 
 Richard Leaper, esq. 
 
 Thomas Mellor, esq. 
 
 Miss Richardson 
 
 Rev. Edward Hi$;(;inson 
 
 Rev. John Wakefield 
 
 Rev. Joseph I'ickford 
 
 Rev. Robert Simpson, F. R, S. &c. 
 
 Thomas Bent, esq. M. D. 
 
 Henry Mozley, esq. 
 
 John Curziin, esq. 
 
 Rev. Cantrill 
 
 Charles Clarke, esq. 
 
 Rev. C. B. Woolley 
 
 John Drewry, esq. 
 
 John Bell Crompton, esq. 
 
 Henry Cox, esq. 
 
 Rev. Edward Unwin 
 
 William Newton, esq. 
 
 Rev. J. G. Howard 
 
 Robert Hope, escj. 
 
 John Cox, esq. 
 
 John Buckston, esq. 
 
 John Byng, esq. 
 
 Richard Lcacroft, esq. 
 
 John Barber, esq. 
 
 Thomas Parker Bainbrigge, esq. 
 
 Rev. Charles Stead Hope 
 
 Joseph Bainbrigge, esq. 
 
 William Strutt, esq. 
 
 Edward Strutt, esq. 
 
 Samuel Evans, esq. 
 
 Thomas Haden, esq. 
 
 Edward Degge Sitwell, esq. 
 
 Joseph Strutt, esq. 
 
 Miss Clay 
 
 James Simpson, esq. 
 
 John Bingham, esq. 
 
 William Jeffry Lockett, esq. 
 
 William Lockett, esq. 
 
 Samuel Richardson Itadford, esq. 
 
 Francis Jessopp, es(|. 
 
 Samuel Fox, jun. esq. 
 
 Thomas Lowe, esq; 
 
 Rev. J. D. G. Pike 
 
 Mrs. Swinburne 
 
 Rowbottom, gent. 
 
 Lord Waterpark 
 
 Hon. Colonel Cavendish 
 
 Hon. Henry Manners Cavendish 
 
 Sir Roger Gresley, bart. 
 
 Hugh Scott, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Jane Cecil 
 
 Rev. Thomas Roscrow 
 
 Francis Broadhurst, esq. 
 
 George Bland, esq. 
 
 Thomas Milnes Smith, esq. 
 
 Rev. William Spencer 
 
 Rev. William Barber 
 
 Rev. Evan Owen Jones 
 
 Samuel Webster, gent. 
 
 Mrs. Gifford 
 
 Rev. John Harrison 
 
 Sir Charles ('olville, knight 
 
 Hon. Mr. Justice Balguy 
 
 Adam Barker Slater, esq. 
 
 Thomas Goodman, esq. 
 
 Rev. A. C. Broomhead 
 
 Rev. John Champion 
 
 Rev. Richard Smith 
 
 James Pickering Orde, esq. 
 
 Rev. George Trevor Spencer 
 
 Rev. George Evans 
 
 Rev. Robert Greville 
 
 John Boden, esq. 
 
 Sir Henry Every, bart. 
 
 Rev. John Leigh 
 
 Earl of Harrin^jton 
 
 Rev. John Swaine 
 
 Rev. John (,'hamberlaync 
 
 Philip Heacoek, esc].
 
 NOBLEMEN AND 
 
 RESIDEVCE. 
 
 EtiPatt 
 
 Green Hall ... 
 Grove 
 
 Ilrmse 
 
 llack-ney Lane 
 
 Haddon HaU 
 Hardu-icl- HaU 
 Hartingion Vicarage 
 
 Hartshorn 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Hall 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Hayjield 
 
 Heanor 
 
 Heath 
 
 Higham 
 
 Highfields 
 
 HUcoie HaU 
 
 HUltop 
 
 HUton Cottage 
 
 Hnlbrook- 
 
 Holme HaU 
 
 Hnlmsfield 
 
 Hope Vicarage 
 Hopton HaU 
 
 Hopwell HaU 
 Horridge House 
 Ideridgehay 
 
 Ilam HaU 
 
 IH-estan Vicarage 
 IngUby HaU 
 
 Ireton Wood 
 KedUsion HaU 
 
 Kilhurn 
 
 HaU 
 
 Kings Xewton 
 
 ■ HaU 
 
 Kirk HaUtim 
 
 Hill Hmtse 
 
 Ireton Rectory 
 
 Laneley 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Kniivton 
 
 LangUy HaU 
 
 Lea HaU 
 
 Hurst 
 
 Wood 
 
 Learn HaU 
 
 Lees HaU 
 
 Ulus (The) 
 
 Little Longstone 
 Littleover HaU 
 
 Locko HaU 
 
 Longford HaU 
 
 DISTAVCE. 
 6 miles W of Derby 
 
 5 miles NE of Bakewell ... 
 
 1 mile E of Buxton 
 
 6 mil« \ \V of Derby 
 
 -J miles X of Ashboum ... 
 
 6 miles S of Chesterfield 
 
 7 miles S\V of Derby 
 9 miles W of Derby 
 
 Wirksworth 
 
 6 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 12 m. .\W of Chapel-en-le-Frith. 
 
 Belper 
 
 near Ashboum 
 
 near Derby 
 
 6 miles N of Wirksworth 
 
 2J miles S of Bakewell ™ 
 
 5 miles SE of Chesterfield 
 
 6 miles N of Ashboum 
 10 miles N of Derby 
 
 1 mile N of Chesterfield ... 
 5 miles NE of Bakewell ... 
 
 8 miles E of Chapel.€n-le-Ftith 
 
 5 miles NW of Buxton 
 1 8 miles NE of Derby 
 j 5 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 5 miles N of Alfreton 
 
 I 2 miles N of Chesterfield 
 3 miles NE of Alfreton ... 
 Bakewell 
 
 I 7 miles W of Derby 
 
 I 6 miles N of Derby 
 
 ' Bakewell 
 
 I 8 miles N of Chesterfield ... 
 
 6 miles E of Chapel-en-le-Frith 
 
 2 miles \V of Wirksworth 
 
 6 miles E of Derby 
 
 near Chapel-en-le-Frith ... 
 
 3 miles S of Wirksworth 
 
 4 miles N of Ashbourn 
 9 miles NE of Derby 
 
 6 miles S of Derby 
 
 5 miles S of Wirksworth 
 4 miles NW of Derby 
 
 7 miles N of Derby 
 
 7 miles S of Derby 
 
 5 miles NE of Derby 
 
 Duffield 
 
 2 miles S of Wirksworth 
 5 miles NW of Derby 
 
 4 miles E of Ashbourn 
 
 5A miles N of Derby 
 
 4| miles NE of Wirksworth 
 
 4 miles E of Wirksworth 
 2 miles NE of Cromford 
 2 miles N of Stoney Middleton 
 
 2J miles S of Glossop 
 7 miles NW of Derby 
 
 4 miles NE of Bakewell ... 
 2 miles W of Derby 
 
 5 miles E of Derby 
 
 9 miles N W of Derby 
 
 KAMES. 
 
 William Beer, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Green Cotton 
 
 Kev. L. D. H. Cokbume 
 
 Thomas Bird, esq. 
 
 Rev. E. B. Bagshaw 
 
 Rev. George Mounsey 
 
 Hon. Nathaniel Curzon 
 
 John Goodwin Johnson, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Mar>- Holland 
 
 Sir Francis Burdett, bart. 
 
 John Broa<lhurst,esq. occupied by 
 Colonel Wood 
 
 Thomas Cell, esq. 
 
 Thomas Hallowes, esq. 
 
 Duke of Norfolk, in the occupa- 
 tion of Thomas Ellison, esq. 
 
 Jedediah Strutt, esq. 
 
 John Trelford Silvester, esq. 
 
 Thomas Bridgett, esq. 
 
 John Gisborne, esq. 
 
 Peter Walthall, esq. 
 
 Benjamin Broomhead, esq. 
 
 Thomas Knowlton, esq. 
 
 James Milnes, esq. 
 
 Duke of Rutland 
 
 Duke of Devonshire 
 
 Rev. Matthew Walter Ward 
 
 Thomas Hassal, esq. 
 
 Rev. Francis Tunnieliff 
 
 Bernard Lucas, esq. 
 
 Rev. John Jones 
 
 Earl of Newburgh 
 
 Rev. George Jinks 
 
 Ashton Ashton Shuttleworth, esq. 
 
 Rev. John Le Comu 
 
 Rev. John Crowther 
 
 Rev. Richard Whinfield 
 
 Rev. Joseph Ashbridge 
 
 Thomas Radford, esq. 
 
 W. B. Thomas, esq. 
 
 John Slater Wilkinson, esq. 
 
 John Barker, esq. 
 
 John Simpson, esq. M. D. 
 
 Rev. John Can- 
 Robert Birch, esq. 
 
 Rev. William Pashley 
 
 Rev. John Ibbotson 
 
 Philip Gell, esq. 
 
 John Gell, esq. 
 
 Thomas Pares, esq. 
 
 Walter Gisborne, esq. 
 
 Robert Creswell, esq. 
 
 Jesse Watts Russell, esq. M. P. 
 
 Rev. Richard Moxon 
 
 Sir Francis Burdett, bart. occupied 
 by William Smith, jun. gent. 
 
 James Northage James, esq. 
 
 Lord Searsdale 
 
 C. V. Hunter, esq. 
 
 William Hunter Hunter, esq. 
 
 Joseph Cantrill, esq. 
 
 Lord Melbourne, in the occupation 
 of William Jenny, esq. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Wilkinson 
 
 E. L. Ireland, esq. 
 
 Rev. Henry Gordon 
 
 Thomas Goodall Copestake, esq. 
 
 Rev. Henry James Fielding 
 
 Rev. Robert Hurd 
 
 Rev. Henrv' Peach 
 
 Thomas Hallowes, esq. occupied 
 by Luke Alsop, esq. 
 
 WilUam Edward Nightingale, esq. 
 
 John Alsop, esq. 
 
 Middleton Marmaduke Middleton, 
 esq. 
 
 Joseph Hartfield, esq. 
 
 John Crompton, esq. 
 
 William Longsdon, esq. 
 
 Cockshutt Heathcote, esq. occu- 
 pied by William Edwards, gent. 
 
 Mrs. Lowe 
 
 Edward Coke, esq. 
 
 Thomas William Coke, esq.
 
 gentlemen's residences. 
 
 RESIDEKCE. 
 
 Longford Flail 
 
 Lit church Lodge 
 Little Hallam 
 Lung Eaton 
 Longstone Hall 
 
 Ludworth 
 
 Lullington Vicarage 
 Mackivorth Vicarage 
 
 Castle ... 
 
 Makenc)/ Cottage 
 
 Mappleion 
 
 Markcaton Hall 
 
 Marsh Green Halt ... 
 Marston Mnntgomery 
 Mathfield Hall 
 
 Matlock 
 
 . Rector y 
 
 Temple 
 Cottage 
 Bath 
 
 Measham Hall 
 
 Field 
 
 Meersbrook Hall 
 Melbourn Hall 
 
 ■ Vicarage 
 
 Me/lor 
 
 Hall 
 
 Mills 
 
 Mickleover Rectory 
 
 Middleton by Yolgrave 
 
 MiUford House 
 
 Mnrley Rectory 
 Morton Rectory 
 M ossboroiigli Hall ... 
 Mugisinton Farm 
 
 Newbold 
 
 Kewton Solney 
 
 Norbury Vicarage 
 North iVinJield 
 
 Hall ... 
 
 House 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Oaks, The 
 Ockbrook Rectory 
 Oddo 
 
 Ogston Hall ... 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Oldacre Hall 
 Osmaston Hall 
 
 Overton Hall 
 
 Painter's Lane 
 
 Park Hall in Barlborough 
 
 ■ in Hayjield 
 
 HiU 
 
 Parwich Hall 
 
 Pastures House 
 Peartree House 
 Pilsbury Grange 
 Pleasley 
 Quarjidon Cottage 
 
 niSTAVCE. 
 
 9 miles NVV of Derby 
 
 1 mile S of Derby 
 
 1 mile E of Ilkeston 
 
 10 miles SE of Derby 
 
 3 miles NE of Bakowell 
 in Glossnp Dale 
 7 miles SVV of Ilurton 
 n miles N\V of Derby 
 in rnins (site of) 
 
 2 miles S of Belper 
 near Ashbourn 
 
 1 mile NVV of Derby 
 
 Ashover 
 
 V2 miles W of Derby 
 
 2 miles \V of Ashbourn 
 2 miles N of Cromford 
 
 Ifi miles N of Derby 
 
 3 m. W of Ashby-de-la-Zouch 
 
 3 miles S of Sheffield 
 8 miles S of Derby 
 
 7 miles NW of Buxtoa ... 
 
 4 miles W of Derby 
 i'miles'sWof Bakewell " 
 
 5 miles N of Derby 
 
 !> miles NE of Derby 
 
 4 miles N of Alfreton 
 
 7 miles NE of Chesterfield 
 
 5 miles NW of Derby 
 
 near Chesterfield 
 
 io miles SW of Derby .'.". 
 
 5 miles W of Ashbourn 
 4 miles S of Chesterfield 
 
 8 miles N of Chesterfield 
 
 7 miles E of Derby 
 VVinster 
 
 4 miles NW of Alfreton .. 
 
 3 miles N of Ashbourn .. 
 
 Heanor 
 
 IJ mile S of Derby 
 
 7 miles N of Wirksworth 
 
 3 miles S of Ashbourn 
 
 7 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 6 miles N of Buxton 
 6 miles W of Derby 
 
 5 miles NE of Ashbourn 
 
 4 miles W of Derby 
 near Derby 
 
 near Hartington ... 
 
 4 miles N of Mansfield . 
 
 3 miles NW of Derby 
 
 KAME9. 
 
 Edward Coke, esq. 
 
 Thomas William Coke, esq. 
 
 Walter Ruding, esq. 
 
 William Dodsley Flamstecd, esq. 
 
 John Chamberlayne Hopkiu, esq. 
 
 William Carleill, esq. 
 
 John Wright, esq. 
 
 Rev. Charles Edward Collins 
 
 Rev. George Pickering 
 
 Lord Scarsilale 
 
 Anthony Radford Strut!, esq. 
 
 Francis Goodwin, esq. 
 
 Francis Mundy,esq. M. P. 
 
 William Mundy, esq. 
 
 Rev. Joseph Nodder 
 
 Rev. John Williams 
 
 RobertCharlesGreaves.esq. M.D. 
 
 Edward Radford, esq. 
 
 Rev. Dr. Holkham, occupied by 
 Rev. Henry Sim 
 
 Samuel Simpson, esq. 
 
 Colonel Payne 
 
 Charles Clarke, esq. 
 
 Rev. Richard Ward 
 
 Rev. Wilson 
 
 Joseph Jones, escj. 
 
 William Wootton Abney, esq. 
 
 Samuel Shore, esq. 
 
 Lord Melbourne, occupied by hon. 
 George Lamb, M. P. 
 
 Rev. John Middleton 
 
 Kev. Matthew Freeman 
 
 David Bridge, esq. 
 
 Richard Arkwright, esq. 
 
 Hon. and Rev. Frederic Curzon 
 
 Rev. John Bateman 
 
 Thomas Bateman, esq. 
 
 Wilfiam Bateman, es<i. F. A.S. 
 
 George Benson Strutt, esq. occu- 
 pied by Hon. Edw. Gore, U. N. 
 
 Rev. William Sitwell 
 
 Rev. Richard Turbutt 
 
 John Smith, esq. 
 
 Hon. and Rev. David Curzon 
 
 Hon. and Rev. Alfred Curzon 
 
 Godfrey Booker, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Margaret Sloven 
 
 Abraham Hoskins, esq. 
 
 John Lees, esq. 
 
 Robert Chaplin, esq. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Bingham 
 
 John Clay, esq. 
 
 William Clay, esq. 
 
 Rev. Edward Walter Lowe 
 
 Rev. Henry Hunt Piper 
 
 William Webster, esq. 
 
 Samuel Shore, esq. 
 
 Robert Newton Shaw, esq. occu- 
 pied by John Read, esq. 
 
 Rev. Henry Pearson 
 
 John William Bagshaw, esq. 
 
 Rev. Samuel Hey 
 
 Lord Searsdale, occupied by Wil- 
 liam Brittlcbank, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Turbutt 
 
 William Turbutt, esq. 
 
 H. F. Okeover, esq. occupied by 
 Thomas Seykell Rawson, esq. 
 
 Rev. Henry Smith 
 
 Sir Robert Wihnot, bart. occupied 
 by Samuel Fox, es(|. 
 
 Bright, esq. M. D. 
 
 P'rancis Hurt, jun. es(). 
 
 E. S. C. Pole, esq. occupied by 
 Mrs. Pole 
 
 John White, esq. 
 
 Oi'c'.ipied by Colonel Clowes 
 
 William Evans, esq. occupied by 
 Rev. L E. Carr 
 
 Cockshutt Heathcote, esq. 
 
 Mr. Briggs 
 
 Edmund Gould, esq. 
 
 John Siddon, esq. 
 
 John Cox, esq.
 
 KOBLEMEN AND 
 
 RESIDEXCE. 
 
 Quarndon Cottage ... 
 Radborne Hall 
 
 Rectory ... 
 
 Raiienstom Hall 
 Renishaw Hall 
 Repton 
 
 Priory 
 
 Vicarage ... 
 
 Stuinsby Hnvse 
 Staiiton-by-Bridge Rectory . 
 
 Dale 
 
 ■ Rectory . 
 
 ■ lloufe 
 Woodhouse 
 
 Slapenhill 
 Staveley Hall 
 
 ■ Haute 
 
 ■ Rectory 
 
 Sfenson 
 
 Stok-e HaU ... 
 
 Slonecliffe Hall 
 Stony Miil'J/rlon 
 
 Stretton Reclorii 
 
 Stretton in the Fields Hall , 
 
 Stubbing Edge 
 Court 
 
 .Sturston House 
 Sudbury HaU 
 
 Vicarage 
 
 Sutton Hall ... 
 Rectory 
 
 OH the Hill 
 
 Suanwick- Hall 
 
 Grange 
 
 Swarkstonc-LiMS 
 
 HaU ... 
 
 Roch House 
 
 RoUeston HaU 
 
 Romeley 
 
 Roslisinn 
 
 Sandy-Brook- HaU | 
 
 Sawley Vicarage 
 
 Shardlow 
 
 HaU 
 
 Shif^ey HaU 
 
 Sfiirebrook 
 
 Shirland HaU 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Shirley Vicarage 
 
 Smalley 
 
 Smisby HaU 
 
 Sneliton HaU 
 
 Sniiterton HaU 
 
 South-gate House 
 
 South-Xormanton Vicarage .. 
 
 South IVinJield 
 
 Manor House 
 
 Vicarage ... 
 
 Spink-hiU 
 
 Spondon 
 
 DISTAKCE. 
 .T miles NW of Derby 
 
 5 miles N\V of Derby 
 
 3 miles S of Ashby-de-l.vZouch.- 
 
 6 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 7 miles SW of Derby 
 
 8 miles SW of Derby 
 
 2J miles E of Alfreton . 
 3"miles E of Chesterfield 
 10 miles NT of Derby 
 7 miks E of Derby 
 
 2 miles N of Wirksworth 
 
 8i miles \V of Derby 
 
 in the parish of Barlborough 
 
 1 mile W of Burton 
 
 IJ mile X of Ashbourn 
 
 9 miles S of Derby 
 
 7 miles S of Derby 
 
 8 miles E of Derby 
 
 near Pleasley 
 
 3 miles X of Alfretoa 
 
 3 miles S of Ashbourn 
 
 G miles XE of Derby 
 
 2i miles X of Ashby-de-la-Zouch 
 
 3 miles W of Ashbaum 
 
 5 miles N' of Wirksworth 
 
 H mile E of Barlborough 
 
 3"miles XE of Alfreton 
 
 2J miles W of Alfreton 
 
 Manor House in ruins 
 
 near Barlborough 
 
 3 miles E of Derby 
 
 7 miles XE of Derby 
 6 miles S of Derby 
 6 miles E of Derby 
 
 2 miles X of Winster 
 
 4 miles S of Bakewell 
 1 mile S of Burton 
 
 5 miles E of Chesterfield 
 
 4 miles S">V of Derby 
 
 1 mile E uf Stony Middleton 
 
 5 miles S of Bakewell 
 5 miles £ of Bakewell 
 
 3 miles SW of Ashby-de-la-Zouch 
 
 7 miles NE of Wirksworth 
 4 miles W of Chesterfield 
 
 near Ashbourn 
 
 15 miks W of Derby 
 
 4 miles SE of Chesterfield 
 
 2 miles S of Alfreton 
 
 5 miles S of Derby 
 
 N'AMES. 
 
 W. B. Wayne, esq. 
 
 E. Saeheverel Chandos Pole, esq. 
 
 Rev. Reginald Chandos Pole 
 
 Leonard Fosbrook, esq. 
 
 Sir George Sitwell, bart. 
 
 Rev. Matthew Whitt 
 
 Rev. John Hare 
 
 Rev. John Paltinson 
 
 Sir Francis Burdett, bart. occupied 
 by Rev. Dr. Slcath 
 
 James Oakcs, esq. 
 
 George Hodgkinson Barrow, esq. 
 
 Robert W ood, esq. 
 
 John Michael Fellows, esq. 
 
 Rev. Henry Lloyd Biden 
 
 Rev. John Hancock Hall 
 
 Peter .Arkwright. esq. 
 
 Sir Oswald Moslev, bart. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Hill 
 
 Thomas Hamp, esq. 
 
 Sir Matthew Biaki.ston, bart. 
 
 Rev. James Lowther Senhouse 
 
 Richard Roby Burgen, esq. 
 
 James Sutton, e>q. 
 
 Edward Miller Mundy, esq. 
 
 Reynolds Sutton, esq. 
 
 Thomas Radford, esq. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Greenfield 
 
 Rev. Walter .Augustus Shirley 
 
 John Radford, esq. 
 
 John Radford, jun. esq. 
 
 Sir George Crewe, bart occupied 
 by Thomas Hassall, esq. 
 
 John Harrison, esq. 
 
 Edmund Tumor, esq. occupied 
 by Robert Sibery, gent. 
 
 Henry Bowden, esq. 
 
 Rev. Frederic Doveton 
 
 Thomas Pearson, esq. 
 
 Wingfield Halton, esq. 
 
 Rev. Emanuel Halton 
 
 Rev. M. Tristram 
 
 James Cade, esq. 
 
 Bryan Thomas Balguy, esq. 
 
 Roger Cox, esq. 
 
 Osborne, e=q. 
 
 John Dawes Mather, esq. 
 
 Rev. John Fleming St. John 
 
 E.S. W. Sitwell, esq. 
 
 Rev. Whittaker 
 
 Lawrence Hall, gent. 
 : Rev. J. D- Wawn 
 I William Pole Thornhill, esq. 
 
 Duke of Rutland 
 I Rev. De Voeux, occupied by the 
 
 I Rev. Joseph Clay 
 The Duke of Devonshire, occu- 
 pied by Rev. Francis Foxlow 
 Henry Bukeley, esq. 
 
 Rev. Richard Smith, occupied by 
 I Rev. John Clarke 
 
 John Wilson, esq. 
 
 Hon. B. Simpson, Babworth, oc- 
 1 cupied by R. .\rkwright, esq. 
 I Arthur Shipley Heathcote, esq. 
 I James Ashton'Shuttleworth, esq. 
 I Rev. A. B. Greaves 
 ] Sir Thomas Denman, knt. 
 I Rev. John Browne Cave 
 I Sir William Browne Cave, bart. 
 
 John Robert Browne Cave, esq. 
 
 William .Milnes, esq. 
 
 C- D. Gladwin, esq. occupied by the 
 Rt. Hon. J. Abererombie, M. P. 
 
 John Trelford Sylvester, esq. 
 
 Lord Vernon 
 
 Hon. George John V. Vernon 
 
 Rev. Frederick Anson 
 
 Richard .Arkwright, jun. esq. 
 
 Rev. William Carlisle, occupied 
 by the Rev. Robert ReviU 
 
 Rev. Ralph Heathcote 
 
 Rev. John Wood 
 
 John Cressy Hall, esq. 
 
 William Smith, esq.
 
 gentlemen's residences. 
 
 RESIDENCE. 
 
 SummcrsaU 
 
 Rectory ... 
 
 Tapton Gnwe 
 
 Hall 
 
 Lane 
 
 Taxall Lodj{e 
 T/tornhill House 
 Thorn Bridi,'e 
 Thorpe Rectory 
 Thurlston Lodge 
 
 Tibshdf 
 
 TidesweU Vicarage ... 
 Tissin^toit Hall 
 
 Troway 
 
 Twyford Hall 
 
 JVain^roves 
 
 Walton Hall 
 
 ——^- on Trent Hall 
 
 ■ Rectory 
 
 Wensley Hall 
 Wcslon on, Trent Hall 
 
 Wheatley Hall 
 Wheat Hills ... 
 Wlieston Hall 
 Whiltinvton ... 
 
 ■ Rectory 
 
 ■ Cottage 
 Rectory 
 
 Whitwell Rectnry 
 Willerslcy Castle 
 WUksky Hall 
 
 Rectory 
 
 Willington Hall 
 
 — ytcarage 
 
 Wigwell Hall 
 Wingerworth Hall . 
 Winsler 
 
 Wood End 
 Wormhill 
 
 ■ Vicarage 
 
 Yolgrave 
 
 ■ Hall 
 
 niSTAXCE. 
 3 miles N\V of Tutbury ... 
 
 3 miles S of Chesterfield ... 
 
 in Cheshire 
 
 J mile VV of Derby 
 
 in Longstone 
 
 4 miles N VV of Ashbourn 
 
 4 miles S of Derby 
 
 5 miles N of Derby 
 
 3 miles NE of Ashbourn 
 
 in Eckiiigton 
 
 5 miles bVV of Derby 
 
 8 miles N of Derby 
 
 o miles W of Chesterfield 
 
 4 milts VV of Burton on Trent 
 
 5 miles N\V of Cromford 
 5 miles S of Derby 
 
 5 miles S of Bakewell 
 3 miles N of Derby 
 
 near TidesweU 
 
 3 miles N of Chesterfield ... 
 
 4 miles NVV of Worksop 
 
 2 miles N of Wirksworth 
 
 1^ mile W of Ashby-de-la-Zouch 
 
 6 miles SVi^ of Derby 
 
 1 mile E of Wirksworth .. 
 2i miles S of Chesterfield 
 6'miles N of Wirksworth 
 
 15 miles N of Derby 
 
 2.J miles NE of Wirksworth 
 "2 miles N of TidesweU ... 
 
 5 miles SW of Bakewell 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 Henry Vernon, esq. 
 
 Rev. Beaver 
 
 John Meynell. esq. 
 
 Isaac Slater Wilkinson, esq. 
 
 Robert Malkin, esq. 
 
 William George Newton, esq. 
 
 Mrs. Trowell 
 
 Robert Necdham, esq. 
 
 Rev. B. G. Blackden 
 
 W. B. Darwin, esq. 
 
 Benjamin Chambers, esq. 
 
 Rev. riioinas Brnvne 
 
 Sir Henry Kitz Herbert, bart. 
 
 John Turner, esq. 
 
 .Samuel Ellis Bristowe, esq. occu- 
 pied by 
 
 Mrs. Strelley 
 
 Joshua Jebb, esq. 
 
 Colonel Disbrowe, occupied by the 
 Hon. Hobert Kennedy 
 
 Rev. Francis Blick 
 
 Anthony ,\ls(ip, gent. 
 
 E A. Holden, esq. occupied by 
 Charles Browne, gent. 
 
 Rev. Robert French, occupied by 
 Rev. Dewe 
 
 Christopher Bowyer Potter, esq. 
 
 Francis Mundy, esq. M. P. 
 
 John Allen, gent. 
 
 Rev. Robert Broomhe.-jd 
 
 Charles Hughes May, esq. 
 
 Henry Dixon, esq. 
 
 Rev. George Gordon, occupied by 
 the Rev. Robert Robinson 
 
 Rev. 
 
 Richard Arkwright, esq. 
 
 Sir Charles Abney Hastings, bart. 
 
 Lady Hastings 
 
 Kev. 
 
 Miss Burdett 
 
 Rev. F. W. Spilsbury 
 
 Francis Green Goodwin, esq. 
 
 Sir John Henry Hunloke, bart. 
 
 Mrs. Carill Worsley 
 
 Thomas Carill Worsley, esq. 
 
 Charles Hurt, esq. 
 
 Charles Hurt, jun. esq. 
 
 Richard Hurt, esq. 
 
 Miss Toplis 
 
 Rev. Robert Cell 
 
 Thomas I'oyser, esq. 
 
 Rev. 
 
 James Swettenham, esq. 
 
 Rev. John Duncalf 
 
 Sir William Chambers Bagshaw, 
 M. D. 
 
 Rev. Benjamin Pidcock 
 
 Names of Noblemen and Genllemen who have Estates in the Counlij but do 
 not reside in it, and whose names do not appear in the above list. 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Newcastle, Clumber, Not- 
 tinghamshire 
 
 The Most Noble the Marquess of Anglesea, Beau- 
 desert, Staffordshire 
 
 The .Most Noble the Marquess of Hastings, Don- 
 ington Park 
 
 The Most Noble the Marquess of Townshend 
 
 The Itight Hon. E.irl Ferrers, Staunton Harold 
 
 The Right Hon. the Karl of Thanet 
 
 The Right Hon. Earl Stanhope, Chevening, Kent 
 
 The Right Hon. Earl Bathurst, Langwith Lodge, 
 Nottinghamshire 
 
 The Right Hon. Earl Beauchamp, Madrcsfield 
 Court, Worcestershire 
 
 The Riijht Hon. Earl Manvers, Thoresby Park, 
 Nottinghamshire 
 
 The Right Hon. Lord George A. H. Cavendi.sh 
 
 The Right Hon. Lord Middlcton, WooUaton Hall 
 
 Humphrey Bowles, esq. 
 
 Thomas Borough, csij. Chetwynd P.irk 
 
 Peter Pegge Burnell, esq. Winkburne, Notting- 
 hamshire 
 
 Charles Chadwick, esq. Malveysin Ridware, 
 Staffordshire 
 
 R. H. Cheny, esq. 
 
 Court Dtwes, esq. 
 
 James Godfrey de Burgh, esq- 
 
 Richard Paul Joddrell, esq. 
 
 George Henry Errington, esq. 
 
 Thomas Grove, esq. 
 
 Charles Lugli Hoskins Master, esq. 
 
 Francis Newdigate, esq. Arbury, Warwickshire 
 
 John Mureof, esq. 
 
 Francis Robinson, esq. 
 
 Henry ratham, esq. 
 
 Whalesby, esq.
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No 1. 
 
 JOURNEY from CAVENDISH BRIDGE to HANGING BRIDGE. 
 
 Note. Tlie Inns named in the following Road Sketches are only such as keep post horses. 
 The hand points to the market towns, to the right and left of the road where the cross 
 roads occur. R. and L. also mean right and left of the road. — The letter m. following 
 the figures is an abbreviation for miles. The market-towns are printed in Roman capitals. 
 
 Cavendish Bridge 
 Cross the Trent 
 Shardlow, 119^ wj. from 
 London 
 
 Elvaston 
 
 Alvaston 
 
 Cross the Canal 
 DERBY, 126 m. from 
 London 
 
 King's Head 
 
 Bell Inn 
 
 New Inn 
 
 to Nottingham, \6m' 
 MansJiehU 22 m. 
 Chesterfield, 2 im. 
 Dronfifld, 30 m. 
 Alfreton, 13 m. 
 JJcaiior, 8 m. 
 Jlkcston, li) m. 
 BoUovcr, 24 77J. 
 Ripley, \0m. 
 Sheffield, 36 m. 
 Belpcr, 8 m. 
 Creimford, 16 wz. 
 Matlock Bath, 17 
 Bakeu-ell, 26 m. 
 Buxton, 38 in. 
 Wirkfworth, 13m 
 Wintter, 20 m. 
 
 4^ 
 
 to Bur ton, 11 m. 
 Lichftdd, 24 m. 
 Birmingham, 40 m 
 Ultnxcter, 19 m. 
 AMy-de-la-Zouch. 
 14 fw. 
 
 Loughborough, 17 771. 
 Leicester, 28 m. 
 
 4i 
 
 n 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 A handsome stone bridge. 
 
 Extensive warehouses and wharfs. 
 
 BrouRhton House. Shardlow Hall. 
 
 One mile to the left, Aston Hall and Aston Lodge« 
 
 Thurlston Lodge. 
 
 Elvaslon Hall, 4 miles south of Derby, on the banks of the Der- 
 went, noted as the birth-place of Walter Blunt, honoured by 
 Edward tlie Fourth with the title of Baron Mountjoy, whose 
 family was remarkable for men of learning and virtue. Here 
 the iiresent Earl of Harrington has built a noble gothic man- 
 »ion, and furnished it with a good collection of paintings and 
 ancient armour ; some superb furniture, and an excellent 
 library of books. 
 
 R. Alvaston Hall. 
 
 L. Osmaston Hall. 
 
 Derby, the capital of the county, is situate upon the banks of 
 the Derweiit upon ground of different heights, and is sur- 
 rounded with gentle and pleasant eminences, from which flow 
 the Markeaton and other brooks. Over the Derwent there 19 
 a handsome stone bridge, built on the model of the bridge at 
 Versailles. There are numerous bridges over the Markeaton 
 brook, within the limits of the borough, and the course of the 
 Derwent is diversified by wears and islands so as to render it 
 extremely picturesque. Among the public buildings we may 
 mention tlie Town Hall (lately erected) which is an elegant 
 fabric of the Ionic order, designed by Matthew Habershon, 
 esq. The New County Hall, by the sanne artist, is a commo- 
 dious and well-constructed building. The county jail, situate 
 on the south-west of the town, covers, with its buildings and 
 courts, nearly four acres of land, and is surrounded with a 
 high massy wall- Its Doric portico is one of the finest speci- 
 mens of that order of architecture in England, and is greatly 
 admired for its classical plainness and soliility. The whole 
 was designed by George Goodwin, esq. and has been completed 
 aboutfour years. TheOldCountyJail. which is now converted 
 into the Borough Jail, was erected in 175G, and is a very respect- 
 able building, with a bold strong front. — The Infirmary, 
 which stands at the entrance of the town from the London 
 road, is a handsome square building, with interior arrange- 
 ments admirably adapted for the comfort and convenience of 
 the unfortunate inmates. The great mcchanicaltalent of the 
 late William Strutt, esq. has contributed 10 the improvement 
 of this benevolent institution. The late Mr. Charles Sylvester 
 was the practical agent, and the combined efforts of those in- 
 telligent men have produced a very superior system of man- 
 agement and economy in the Derby Infirmary. The New 
 Assembly Room is of stone, and stands on the north-east side 
 of the market-place; the pediment is handsomely enriched 
 with a bas-relief of musical instruments. — The Theatre is 
 not very creditable to the dramatic taste of the town: its ex- 
 terior is very humble, although within the building is neat 
 and commodious. — There are seven churches, someof which 
 are of great antiquity. The tower of All .Saints is considered 
 o fine and rich specimen of the lighter style of gothic architec- 
 ture, and is celebrated for the ehastenc ss of its proportions and 
 the elegance of its tracery. The height of the tower is up- 
 wards of 170 feet, and there is a tradition that it was erected 
 at the expense of the young unmarried inhabitants of the 
 town, as the words " young men and maidens" remain per- 
 fectly legible on the northern side. The body of the church 
 was built in the year 1725, after a design by the celebrated
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 to VorJc, 90 m. 
 
 Lincoln, .53 ?«. 
 
 Gainsborough, 53 m. 
 
 Hull, by Gainsborough^ 
 
 per steam packet, 103 tu. 
 
 Manchester, by Leek, 60, 
 
 by Buxton, 56 m. 
 
 Liverpool, 91 m. 
 
 Lancaster, 109 m. 
 
 Chester, 73 ?«. 
 
 £a</t, 129 OT. 
 
 Bristol, 127 ?«. 
 
 Coventry, 42 wj. 
 
 Cambridge, 96 m. 
 
 Canterbury, 182 ?«. 
 
 Carlisle, 175 7«. 
 
 Norwich, 145 ?«. 
 
 Oj/y/ d, 87 7H. 
 
 Peterborough, G\ m. 
 
 Boston, 66 w«. 
 
 Brighton, 179 wi. 
 
 Edinburgh, 264 »«. 
 
 Mackworth 
 Langley 
 Brailst'ord 
 Painter's Lane 
 ASHBOUllN, 139 7«. 
 from liOndon 
 Green INIan 
 
 toBclpcr, 12 w. "1 
 Buxton, 20 7«. I 
 Wirksu'Orlh, 9 m. j- C^ 
 Bakcwcll, 15 m. | 
 Matlock Bath, 12m j 
 J <o Cheadle, 12 »i. 
 
 "^ \ Lec/c, 16 w. 
 
 Hanging Bridge 
 
 u 
 
 7i 
 
 3 
 
 10^ 
 
 2 
 
 12-4 
 
 24 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 
 22i 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 Gibbs, and is a beautiful piece of Doric architecture, but cer- 
 tainly not in unison with the fine gothie tower. The interior 
 is elegant and spacious, and is so particularly calculated for 
 musical performances, that at the period of the triennial fes- 
 tival, Mr. Greatorex and other eminent professors have de- 
 clared it to be the best musical chamber in Kngland. The 
 east end is separated from the part of the church appropriated 
 to divineservice by a rich open-work of iron, and contains the 
 vestry, the chancel, and the monument room of the House of 
 Cavendish: in this is the splendid mural monument of the 
 Countess of Shrewsbury. — St. John's Church is a very recent 
 erection. It is in the embellished style of pointed gothic, 
 with elegant minarets and turrets ; designed by G. Goodwin, 
 esq. and built by Mr. Thomas Cooper ; opened for divine ser 
 vice, Nov. 1828. Derby was distinguished in ancient times for 
 its religious houses. A monastery, dedicated to St. Helen, 
 stood near the upper part of Bridge'-Gate. On the north-west 
 side of Nun's Green, anciently cdled King's Mead, was a small 
 nunnery of Benedictines, dedicated to St. Mary-de-1'ratis." 
 The priory of Donninicans or Black Friars, stood on the south 
 side of thatspaciousentranceinto the town called Friar-Gate. 
 A cell of Cluniac Monks, dedicated to St. James, was situate 
 near the brook on the north of St. James's lane. — One of the 
 most considerable charities in the town is the Devonshire 
 Almshouse, in Full-Street, founded by the Countess of 
 Shrewsbury in the reign of Elizabeth. Another Almshouse, 
 for the widows of clergymen, was endowed by Edward Large, 
 of Derby, in the year 1716. —There is also a free grammar 
 school ; and recently several Sunilay schools have been insti- 
 tuted, besides schools upon the plan of Lancaster and Bell. 
 Within a few years a Mechanics' Institution has been founded, 
 under the care of Messrs. VV. and J. Strutt, which is rising in 
 utility. — The Philosophical Society possesses an elegant libra- 
 ry with mathematical and philosophical apparatus, and a fine 
 collection of fossils. The Permanent Library is a useful es- 
 tablishment, affording many advantages to the reading-classes 
 of society in the town. — Respecting the famous Silk Mill, and 
 the silk trade now extensively carried on in all its depart- 
 ments, as well as the cotton, the hosiery, the iron-works, iSic. 
 we refer the reader to the Introductory part of this work. 
 The markets are held on Wednesday, Friday (principal) and 
 Saturday, and a cattle market every Tuesday fortnight. The 
 borough contains 4,800 houses, and about l'2,300 luhabitauts. 
 
 R. Markeaton Hall. Kedleston Hall. 
 
 L. Radborne-fiSill. Bowbridge. 
 
 R. Meynell Langley Hall, and Langley Hall. 
 
 R. Ednaston Lodge. Painter's-lane House. 
 
 Ashbourn. The situation of this town is remarkably beautiful ; 
 it stands in a rich valley, through which the river Dove rolls 
 its pellucid waters, and when seen from the Derby road, ap- 
 pears as if embosomed by hills, and conveys a pleasing idea of 
 retirement and social hajipiness. The church is a cruciform 
 structure, with a square tower in the centre, surmounted by a 
 lol'ty and richly ornamented octagonal spire ; it is supposed to 
 have been built about the middle of the 15th century, and 
 contains several handsome monuments well worthy of inspec- 
 tion. Here is also a good free grammar-school, that was 
 founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, besides other chari- 
 table institutions. The inhabitants derive their chief support 
 from agriculture and the manufacture of cotton, beside which, 
 they have the benefit of a market on Saturday, and numerous 
 fairs. This town contains 470 houses, and about ii.SOO inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 Ashbuurn Hall, the seat of Sir William Boothby, bart. was from 
 remote antiquity the seat of the Cokaincs, one of the most 
 eminent Derbyshire families. The mansion does not possess 
 much external architectural beauty, but within every part is 
 disposed with taste and elegance. Many of the paintings are 
 valuable. The library contains a choice collection of classic 
 and polite literature. The situation is low, but the park and 
 gardens have been laid out with great ta^te and elegance. 
 
 R. Okeover Hall, Ham Hall. L. Snelston Hall. 
 
 Dove Dale. The vale through which the Dove winds its course 
 is a romantic glen. On the left, or Derbyshire border, the 
 rocks are more bareof vegetation than on theriijht, or StaHbrd- 
 shire side, where they arc partially covered with a fine hanging 
 wood, which from its various combinations with thesurround- 
 ing objects, jiresents a succession of beautiful .and romantic 
 views, diversified by the varying forms of the rocks, and the 
 inconstant current of the Dove, the motion and appearance of 
 which is perpetually changing. The rugged, dissimilar, and 
 frequently grotescpie and fanciful appearance of the rocks, 
 distinguishes the scenery of this valley from, perhaps, every 
 other in the kingdom.
 
 TIOAD SKETCHES. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 2. 
 
 JOURNEY from MONK'S BRIDGE to SHEFFIELD, through Derby, Ripley, 
 Alfreton, Chesterfield and Dronfield, 47^ miles. 
 
 Monk's Bridge 
 
 Cross the Grand Trunk 
 Canal and f he river Dove 
 and enter Derbysldre 
 
 Littleover 
 
 DERBY, U6m. from 
 London 
 
 Little Chester 
 To Manxjield, 21 m. ^ 
 Cross the Derby canal 
 
 Little Eaton - 
 
 Commencement of iron 
 railway to Dcnhy coU 
 lieries 
 
 Coxbench 
 
 To Horslcy, 1 m. Cj" 
 4:3 To llolbrook, 1 m. 
 
 Kilburn Turnpike - 
 4?i to Beljjer, 3 m. 
 
 Smithy Houses 
 
 RIPLEY, 136 OT. from 
 London 
 
 43) to Belpcr, 4 m. 
 to Matlock, 10 m. 
 to Nottingham, 14 m. C^ 
 Butterley 
 Cross the tunnel of the 
 Cromford Canal^ 1| 
 m. long 
 Swan wick 
 
 ALFRETON, 142 ?«. 
 from London 
 Angel Inn 
 George Inn 
 r-ni to Wirksworih, lOm 
 ^\ Matlock, 10 m. 
 to Mansfield, 9| m. \ 
 Nottingham^ \Gm. \ ^ 
 
 Shirland 
 Higham 
 Stretton 
 to Mansfield, 9^- m. CrJ- 
 4:33 to ^Iatlock, 64 m. 
 Claj' Cross 
 Tupton - - . 
 4J} to Bakewell, 13 m. 
 to Mansfield, 12 wi. (tl- 
 
 2^ 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 124 
 
 14 
 
 16 
 17 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 I 
 
 30 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 The Ikcnild Street, or Roman Road, passed over Monk's Bridge. 
 
 In the civil wars a battle was fought here. 
 L. Epginton Hall. R. Uladcn Wood House and Newton Solney. 
 Rtyloti is a plt-.-isaiit village situate on the south bank of the 
 Trent, and celebrated as being the seat of the Mercian kings 
 and for its ancient priory. The church is universally admired 
 for its elpgant spire sleeplo. Sir John Port, knight, founded 
 an excellent free grainmar school at this place. The village 
 contains about 'J, 000 inhabitants. 
 L. Park Hill and Coneygree House. 
 R. Pastures House, and Twyford Hall. 
 
 Furemarh Hall. This seat occupies a pleasant and very eligible 
 situation, and is the property of Sir Francis Uiirdett, bart. 
 into whose fainily it passed, by marriage with the Fraunceys, 
 about the year 1607. The present mansion stands on the site 
 of a more ancient structure; it is an elegant stone building, 
 having a double flight of steps on its north and south fronts ; 
 the only difference between which is, that the former is deco- 
 rated with a handsome portico : the interior consists of a spa- 
 cious hall, running through the building, having on its sides 
 various noble a|>artment3, and a fine wide oak staircase, that 
 leads to the bed-iooms, &c. The grounds are characterized by 
 a fine umlulatmc surface; they contain a number of planta- 
 tions and majestic oaks, besides which, here are some spacious 
 lawns, studded with noble timber, from whence the prospects 
 are extremely delightful, including a fine view of the silver 
 winding Trent. 
 Bretby fork is the residence of the Earl of Chesterfield. The 
 mansion, a noble modern gothic structure, embattled, and 
 surrounding a spacious quadrangular court, is situate on a 
 fine elevation in the centre of a deer park, enriched with 
 fine groves of chestnut, beech and other timber, and a variety 
 of beautiful scenery unequalled for its extent. The portion of 
 the house which is finished is most elegantly and tastefully 
 fitted up, and splendidly furnished. Here once stood an an- 
 cient castle, and more recently a magnificent old mansion, 
 which the late E.irl pulled down in his youth through the per- 
 suasion of an artful steward. This structure was furnished 
 with rich tapestry and fine paintings, and wassurroimded with 
 gardens, disposed after the plan of Versailles, in the old grand 
 style, with terraces, statues, and fountains. Its demolition 
 was afterwards sincerely regretted by the late Earl, who laid 
 the foundation of the present fabric. In thccivil wars, theold 
 hall was garrisoned for the king, and Sir John Gell took it by 
 storm and drove the loyalists from it. 
 Vt-rby, Description of. See Road Sketch, No. 1. 
 Little Cluster, formerly a Roman station. 
 if. Darley Abbey, cotton mills, cVc. 
 Coxbench Hall. R. Horsley church and ruins of the castle, 
 
 the ancient scat of the Byron family, and Stainsby House. 
 L. Denby Old Hall, where the celebrated astronomer Flam- 
 steed was born. R. Kilburn Hall. 
 Rij)lcy is a small market-town, with a neat plain new church, and 
 
 contains 1,700 inhabitants. 
 The Butterley Company have extensive iron works at this place. 
 Here was cast the iron work for the bridge over the river 
 Thames at Vauxhall. 
 R. Swanwiek Hall and Swanwick Grange. 
 Alfreton, a market-town, lo miles N of Derby and 159 N by W 
 of London, contains a rude ancient church, having an embat- 
 tled tower with pinnacles, and.5,000inhabitants, whoarechiefly 
 employed in tlie manufacture of stockings, brown earthen- 
 ware, and in theneighbouring collieries and iron works. The 
 weekly market is held on Friday. Alfreton Hall has long been 
 the residence of the Morewood family. In the hamlet of 
 Greenhill Lane, in this parish, an urn containing about seven 
 hundred Roman coins, was found by a labouring man, while 
 repairing a fence. On the right Carnfield Hall ; south Swan- 
 wiek Hall ; east Riddings Hall, and Urookhill Hall. 
 R. Hardwick Hall, Sutton Hall and Bolsover Castle. 
 L. Ogston Hall and Ford House. 
 L. WingerwortU Hall, Stubbing Court, and Walton Lodge.
 
 KOAD SKETCHES. 
 
 CHESTERFIELD, 
 
 150 Tw. from London 
 
 Angel Inn 
 Commercial Inn 
 
 ito Worksop, 1 6 m. 
 BoUovcr, 6 >n. 
 Mansfield, 12 in. 
 
 Bakewell, 12 m. "] 
 Winsler, 12 m. | 
 Dronfirld, 6 m. \- th^ 
 Matlock B. 10 7«. 
 lVirksivoith,13/n. 
 
 IVhittington Moor - 
 
 DRONFIELD, 156 m. 
 from London 
 
 Little Norton 
 
 tleeley 
 
 'Jross the river Sheaf and 
 
 enter Vorkshlrc 
 SHEFFIELD 
 
 2i 
 
 n 
 
 30 
 35 
 
 36| 
 401 
 
 42i 
 
 45' 
 
 471 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 Chesterfield, a borough and market-town of considerable anti- 
 quity, is particularly distinguished in our national annals as 
 the scene of a severe battle, which was fought in the reign 
 of Henry III. between the forces of Henry, the king's ne- 
 phew, and those of Robert de Ferrers, last Earl of Derby, in 
 which the former were victorious. Here likewise a severe 
 conflict took place in thecivil wars, when the I'arliamentarian 
 troops were defeated by the Earl of Newcastle. The town is 
 lar(;eand of considerable trading importance, but irregularly 
 built, and situate on a rising ground on the west side of the 
 river Rother. The church is a spacious and handsome struc- 
 ture, built in the form of a cross ; it contains some noble mo- 
 numents for the Foljambe family, and it is by no means desti- 
 t\ite of arthitectural beauty, but is more particularly remark- 
 able for the curious construction of its spire, which is '.'30 feet 
 hiijh: it is built of oak and covered with lead, the volutes 
 running spirally round the spire, present to the eye at the 
 same timy a projecting and an hollow side, which gives it a 
 leaning appearance in whatever direction it is apjiroached. 
 The town is lighted with gas; has commodious baths, a neat 
 town hall, a free grammar school, and several charitable insti- 
 tutions. It has a well supplied market on Saturday, but the 
 inhabitants derive their chief support from the manufacture 
 of cotton, lace, stockings, earthenware, and from the bleach- 
 ing grounds, iron founderies, and other works in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The borough contains .5,500 inhabitants. The 
 Chesterfield canal, communicating with the Trent and the 
 number, was completed in 1777. at an expense of £160,000. 
 
 Whittincton is celebrated as being the meeting place of the Re- 
 volutionists in 1G8S. 
 
 DrojiA'rW is a small neat market-town, pleasantly situate in a 
 valley, and remarkable for its salubrity, which has occasioned 
 it to be made the place of residence of many respectable fami- 
 lies. The church is a handsome building, having a tower at 
 the west end terminated by a spire; and but few parochial 
 churches possess a finer chancel. In the latttr are some cu- 
 rious monumental brasses, and some stone stalls worthy of no- 
 tice. Henry Fanshaw, esq. Remembrancer of the Exchequer, 
 founded an excellent free school at this pbice, in the reign of 
 queen Elizabeth. The market, now discontinued, was for- 
 merly held on Thursday. The town contains '_'67 houses and 
 1,600 inhabitants, who are chiefly supported by agriculture. 
 
 R. Norton Hall, The Oaks, Meersbrook Hall. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No 3. 
 
 JOURNEY from DERBY to CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH, through Wirksworth, 
 Matlock and Bakewell, by Kedleston Park, N. by W. 43 miles. 
 
 DERBY, 126 m. from 
 London 
 
 King's Head, &c. 
 Ciuarndon 
 Kedleston Inn 
 ^ to Kedleston Hull., 1 in. 
 Weston Underwood 
 4;^) to Ashhourn, 7 4 vi. 
 Cross-o'the-Hands - 
 4:0 to Ashhourn, 7 w. {tj- 
 to Belper, 4^ m. 
 Itheridgehay - 
 
 Cross the Ecclcshourne 
 
 WIRKSWORTH, 139 
 
 m. from London - 
 Red Lion Inn 
 
 4^ to Ashhourn, 9 m. 
 
 
 3k 
 
 m 
 
 14 
 
 Derby. See description of, in Road Sketch, No. 1. 
 
 At Quarndon there is a strong chalybeate spring, much frequent- 
 ed during the summer months, celebrated in former times for 
 curing the leprosy. 
 
 Kedleston Hall, the very magnificent seat of Lord ."^carsdale, is 
 of modern erection, comprisnig a centre, and two pavilions, 
 connected by corridors of the Doric order with the main 
 building. The principal front, facing the north, has a double 
 flight of steps in the centre; it stands on a gentle elevation, is 
 560 feet in extent, and has a uniform allusion to classic 
 models. The grand hall is Grecian, and the ceiling issupport- 
 ed by 20 columns of alabaster ; the saloon is reckoned one of 
 the most beautiful apartments of its kind in Europe. The 
 collection of paintings belonging to this truly splendid seat, is 
 not only very extensive, but comprises many valuable works 
 by the most eminent masters. The park lodge, designed 
 from thearchof Octavia, gives admission to ihe grounds, that 
 are about five miles in circumference, and display some very 
 flourishing plantations, besides a grove of venerable oaks, 
 many of which are of enormous magnitude. Within the park 
 there is a celebrated mineral spring. The house may be seen 
 from eleven to two o'clock every day, Sundays excepted. 
 
 Wirksuorth is a town of considerable antiquity, situate near 
 the southern extremity of the mining district, in a low valley 
 almost surrounded by hills. Here the features of the country 
 begin to assume a more bold and prominent appearance. The 
 church is a gothie building, apparently of the Hth century, 
 and contains several curious monuments. In the church-yard 
 is a grammar-school, founded by Anthony Gell, of Hopton,
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 to Belper, 6 m. \ ^^ 
 Alfreton, 10 m. j" ^^ 
 
 Pass under the Hiffh 
 Peak raihvay at the 
 Steeple Houses 
 
 CROMFORD, 142 OT. 
 from London 
 Greyhound Inn 
 
 to Derhj, 16 m. ) .^ 
 Alfreton, 9 ?«. f "^ 
 4:0 to Buxton by New- 
 haven, 19 m. 
 
 U 
 
 16 
 
 Matlock Bath 
 New Bath 
 Old Bath 
 Hotel 
 
 Cross the river Derwcnt 
 
 Matlock Village 
 
 4P) to Winstcr, 4 m. 
 Hackney Lane 
 
 Darley Dale - 
 
 ^0 to Winster, 3 »w. 
 to Chesterfield, 9 m. (tJ- 
 Cross the Derwent 
 Rowsley 
 
 Peacock Inn 
 
 17 
 
 21 
 
 18» 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 23i 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The same Anthony Gell 
 founded an hospital at WirUsworth for six poor men, and 
 endowed it with £"10. per annum. The Moot Hall is a hand- 
 some stone structure. In this building all causes respecting 
 the lead-mines within the wapentake are tried; and here is 
 deposited the ancient brass dish, which is the standard that 
 others are made from to measure the lead ore. The weekly 
 market is held on Tuesday. This town contains about 40U0 
 inhabitants, who derive their chief support from the working 
 of the lead mines, the manufacturing of hats, the weaving of 
 ginghams, checks and calicoes, and the spinning of cotton. 
 I/. 2 miles, Hopton Hall, residence of Philip Gell, esq. 
 R. 'ij miles, Alderwasley Hall, residence of F. Hurt, esq. 
 Criinlford, an improving market town. Market on Saturday. 
 There are three cotton mills, built by the celebrated Sir K. 
 Arkwrijiht. The neat chapel was opened on the 4th of June, 
 1797. On the left of the road stands an Alm.shouse, called 
 the Bead-house, founded in 1().)1, for six poor widows, by 
 Dame Mary Talbot. Here the Cromford canal commences, 
 which causes a great traffic in coals, corn, iVc, to be carried 
 on. About a mile south of the town the Cromford and High 
 Peak rail-way forms a junction with the canal, and runs 33 
 milis NW. to Whaley bridge, where it joins the Peak Korest 
 canal. Scarthin rock : through one end of this rock the turn- 
 pike road was made, by blasting the limestone. This town 
 contains 1,500 inhabitants. 
 Rod- House is built on a high limestone rock, overlooking a 
 beautiful part of the vale of the Derwent. The residence of 
 P. Arkwright, esq. 
 ^"dler.sloj Caslle was built by Sir Richard Arkwright, and 
 was consumed by fire shortly before his death. The present 
 building, and Cromford chapel were completed by his son, 
 Richard Arkwright, esq. the present resident at the castle. 
 This elegant edifice stands on the side of a fine eminence, at 
 the foot of which the Derwent flows with much picturesque 
 beauty. The interior is furnished in a very elegant manner ; 
 it is decorated with a few good paintings, among which is a 
 sublime view of Ulswater lake, by Wright, which is consider- 
 ed one of his best productions: and also a full-length portrait 
 of the meritorious founder of the fainily, by the same artist. 
 The grounds possess a very romantic character, exhibiting a 
 variety of rock scenery intermingled with wood; the late and 
 present owners are said to have planted upwards of 50,000 
 trees annually for more than seven years upon these elevated 
 grounds. The gardens are large and laid out with taste. 
 The public are admitted three days in each week. 
 Mallncic Bath is situate in a deep valley on the side of the Der- 
 went, and is one of the most romantic spots in the county. 
 The New Bath is a commodious Inn kept by Mr. Saxton ; 
 and the Old Bath, by Mrs. Cummings. There are also the 
 Hotel-Baths, and various convenient and elegant lodging 
 houses. The Heights of Abraham is a bold and commanding 
 elevation. The High Tor is by far the most striking object in 
 this dale, on account of its superior magnitude: its perpen- 
 dicular height above the snrface of the water is o.'iO feet. The 
 famous caverns of this place are the Rutland, the Cumberland, 
 the Devonshire, the Fluor and many others. On the parade 
 is Mr. Mawe's valuable museum, containing elegant vases, 
 chimney-pieces, tables and a variety of ornamental articles 
 formed of marble, spar and alabaster; and also a very in- 
 teresting collection of shells, fossils, &c. 
 Matlock ViUaae, distant about a mile and a lialf from the baths, 
 is chiefly inhabited by persons employed in the neighbouring 
 mines, and in the manufacture of cotton. 
 Darley Dale is romantic and beautiful : the hills are in some 
 places covered with wood ; and in others their steep acclivities 
 are cultivated, while their summits are crested with broken 
 rock. 
 Darle'j Dale is a small rural village. Its church yard is remark- 
 able for its yew tree, which is .io feet in circumference. 
 On the left hand, beyond the river Derwent, is seen embosomed 
 in trees, Stanton Woodhouse, the fishing seat of His Grace 
 the Duke of Rutland. 
 Rowsli)/, a small, rural farming village. 
 
 lladdun Hall, an ancient baronial mansion belonging to the 
 Duke of Rutland, is a complete and interesting specimen of 
 ancient castellated mansions. It was the principal seat of the 
 family until the beginning of the last century. This vener- 
 able hall consists of buildings, erected at different periods, 
 surrounding two quadrangular courts. The tower over the 
 gateway is supposed to have been built in the reign of Ed- 
 ward 111.; the chapel in that of Henry VI.; and the long gal- 
 lery in the reign of Elizabeth. Over the door are the armi of
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 XXXlll 
 
 BAKEWELL,152»!. 
 
 from Ijondon 
 llutland Arms Inn 
 
 .|::0 'o Buxton, 12 m. 
 loShrffidd, Mm. \ 
 Chestcif eld, 12 ?n. ( ^J 
 
 AsIifbrd-in-the-"\Vater 
 Devonshire Arms Inn 
 
 Cross the river Wye 
 
 liittle I^ongstone - 
 
 AVardlow 
 
 toClirst('rfidd,\\\mA 
 Cti^llrtim, Ug m. V(t3= 
 ShrJJiihh Idh m. S 
 
 TIDESWKL^lfiOw. 
 from London 
 George Inn 
 
 4:D to Bnxtov, 7 m. 
 Peak Forest 
 Sparrow Pit 
 Cross the Peak Forest 
 canal 
 to Sheffield, through 
 
 Caslhtuu, 19 w. y^ 
 Ilnddcrsfteld, 2Sm. 
 
 ]» 
 
 CHAPEL-EN-LE- 
 FRITH, 167 VI. 
 from I^ondon 
 Itoyal Oak Inn 
 King's Head Inn 
 j^f to Buxton, G m. 
 ^\ Mueclrsfietd,\Om. 
 Wlialey Bridfre 
 Cross the river Coi/ie and 
 cuter Cheshire 
 
 DIRECTORY.^ 
 
 3i 
 
 23' 
 
 27 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 32 
 
 31. 
 
 37 A 
 39 .'i 
 
 41 i 
 
 Olijeds worth)/ of notice. 
 
 Vernon, of Fuleo de Pembridpe, Lordof Tong in Shropshire, 
 whose daughter and heiress marriud Sir Richard Vernon. Sir 
 Georjje Vernon, of Haddon, was so much distinKuishcd for his 
 magnificent splendour and hospitality, that lie ;ic(|uired the 
 name of the Kin^' of tlie Peak, lie died in the reign of <|ueen 
 Elizabeth, and his great possessions descended to his two 
 daughters, one of whom was married to Sir John Manners. 
 Hence Haddon Hall became the possession of the Kutlan'l 
 family. The chapel is enriched with painted windows, one 
 of which bears the date of 1 127 in stained glass. Hire is a 
 Homan altar, which is preserved with great attention, but the 
 inscription on it has rather given occasion to learned disputes 
 than been satisfactorily ( xplained. 
 
 Bal.-ciDfll is pleasintly situate on the romantic river Wye, which 
 is well stockctt with trout and grayling ; and those visitors 
 who take up their residence at the llutland Arms, an excel- 
 lent inn, built by the Diik« of Uutland, have the privilege of 
 angling in this part of the river, (ireat iraproveinents have 
 been made in this town by the noble Duke, and a capaciuus 
 bath has been established, under the superintendence of Mr. 
 White Watson, F. L. S. The church is very ancient, and is 
 built in the form of a cross, and at the west end there is an 
 ornamented Saxon arch, apparently of a much older date than 
 the edifice itself. Within the church is a stone font of gn at 
 antiquity. On the easS side of the church stands an ancient 
 stone cross, which is conjectured to he about eight hundred 
 years old. The ornaments and the various devices sculptured 
 on the four sides of this reliqiie are much worn and defaced. 
 There are some very fine old monuments in the church. 
 Bakewell was more important in ancient times than at present : 
 it was distinguished by Edward the Elder, who surroumleil it 
 with fortifications. The market is held on Friday. The 
 trade and manufacture of the town is not considerable, aid 
 chiefly consists in cotton and lead. The town contains 3lJ0 
 houses and '_',l)nO inhabitants. 
 
 Astifi)rd-iii-ilic-l\\iicr has long been celebrated for its niarblen, 
 which are cut and polished at the mills orii;inalli erected by 
 the late Mr. Ilonry Watson of Bakewell. who obtained a patent 
 to secure to himself the advaiita;es of his skill. The inhabi- 
 tants are employed at these marble works, and in cotton spin- 
 ning or in agriculture. This villai;e is on the banks of the 
 Wye, and at the Devonshire Arms Inn visitors eiijuj the same 
 privilege of angling as at Bakewell. 
 
 l.illle Longstone, a small pleasant village affording artists many 
 ehar.'iiing subjects for the pencil. 
 
 Munsiil Dati; on the left is remarkable for the softened beauty 
 with which it embanks the Wye. In this dale are the exten- 
 sive mills of Mr. Newton, the minstrel of the l^;ak, one of the 
 few exislinc friends of the late Miss Seward, the eelebratid 
 poetess. The rocky scenery from Chee Tor to Crcssbrook is 
 magnificent. 
 
 Tidvsiffll, half a mile from the road, ranks among the m.nrket- 
 towns of the county, yet, with the txceplion of thechuteh, 
 has but a humble appearance. The spot where the well ebbed 
 and flowed, from which it derived its name, has been long 
 choked up. The church is a fine pothie edifice, in the form of 
 a cross. It is spacious, lit;ht and beautiful. The tower is ex- 
 tremely remarkable, beinu surmounted with smaller octagonal 
 towers at each corner. The chancel contains the monuments 
 of Bishop Pursglove, and Sampson Mcverill, a celebated war- 
 rior in the time of Henry VI. 'I'here is the ruin uf a chapel 
 or matory mut^i older than the church, on the road towards 
 Middleton. Cotton spinning, calico weaving, and working the 
 lead mines form the chief occupations of the inhabitants. 
 The market is held on Wednesday. The town contains 50t) 
 houses, and about .3,0(10 inhabitants. 
 
 EUlfH Hole is a vast natural chasm, about a mile on the road, near 
 the village of Peak Forest, and is esteemed one of the wonders 
 of the Peak. 
 
 Sparrow- Pit is a village, and at the distance of a mile is Barmoor 
 ('lough, the situation of that natural curiosity called the 
 
 Kbbhig and Flowins^ Wdl, one of the reputed wonders ol Derby- 
 shire. 'I'his well lies m a held by the road side, abuut 1 mile 
 from Perry Foot. 
 
 CJiapd-en-lr-Frith is a neat, but small market-town, standingon 
 theacelivityof an eminence which rises in the centre of a large 
 hollow, formed by the numntains in this part of the county. 
 The church was erected at the beginning of the Iburteeiiih 
 century. This town emitains three thousand five hundred 
 inhabitants who subsist ehiefiy by the manufacture of cottnii 
 thre.id, calicoes, paper, ikc. The market is held on Thurs- 
 day.
 
 XXXIV 
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 4. 
 
 JOURNEY from DERBY to ^VHALEY BRIDGE, through Belper, Cromford, 
 jMatlock Bath, Bakewell and Buxton, 43| miles. 
 
 DERBY, 126 ?«. from 
 
 London 
 Allestree 
 Duffield 
 
 ^-3 to JVirkswortJi, 9 m. 
 Millfbrd 
 
 Cross the Dertoent 
 EELVPni, 134 7?z. from 
 London 
 
 Red I>ion Inn 
 Swan Inn 
 George Inn 
 toN'otliugham, 14/n"! 
 Biphtj, 4 m. V {^ 
 
 Alfrefon, 7 m. ) 
 , J to IVirks's.'ortJt, 6 m. 
 "^ ( Ashhonrn., 12 ot. 
 Amber Toll-gate - 
 to Chrstcrfidd, 14?«. 1 
 Iiiplci/,3m. VCft 
 
 Atfrctoti^ 6 m. ) 
 Watstandwell Bridge 
 
 Cross the Der-wcnt 
 4^) to Wirhsu-orth, 4 m. 
 to Crich, 2 III. \ ^^^ 
 Alf retail, 1 m. j ^"^ 
 
 CROMFORD, 142 m. 
 
 from London 
 Greyhound Inn 
 
 to Alfreton, 9 »i. tS- 
 .p) to Buxton by N'ezc- 
 haveii, 19 m. 
 Matlock Bath 
 New Bath 
 Old Bath 
 Hotel 
 Cross tlie river Derrccnt 
 JMatlock Village 
 
 ^)to JVinsfer, 4ot. 
 Hackney Lane 
 Darley 
 
 4J) to Winstcr, 3 m. 
 to Chesterfield, 9 m. i:^ 
 Cross the Derwcnt 
 Rowsley 
 
 Peacock Inn 
 BAKEWELL, 152 OT. 
 from London 
 Rutland Arms Inn 
 Ashford-in-the-Water 
 
 li 
 
 31 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 IG 
 
 17 
 
 23.1 
 
 27 
 29 
 
 Objects worthy nf notice. 
 
 L. Allestree Hall, the residence of William Evans, esq. 
 
 Diijpeld is a large and respectable village. In the church there 
 are some curious mnnuments. 
 
 h. Duffield Hall, Sir Charles Colville, knight; and the residences 
 of the Hon. Mr. Justice Ualguy, and D. P. Orde, esq. 
 
 MiUJiird Brirljjc and Mills. In this place are the bleaching mills, 
 iron founderics and cotton mills belonging to Messrs. Strutt, 
 
 Belper, forntierly an inconsiderable village, has become an im- 
 portant market-town containing about 9,000 inhabitants; for 
 this rise in population and respectability it is indebted to the 
 extensive cotton works of Messrs. Strutt, of which we have 
 already spoken in the Introduction. The new church is an 
 elegant edifice, and was opened a few years ago ; the architect 
 who furnished the design was Mr. Habershon. A portion of 
 the population is employed in the manufacture of nails, which 
 was the original trade of the place. The market is held on 
 Saturday. 
 
 L. Bridge' Hill, the seat of George Benson Strutt, esq. 
 
 R. The residence of Jedediah Strutt, esq. 
 
 L. Iron forge. 
 
 Alderwasley Hall is situate on the left bank of the Derwent, on 
 a very commanding site, surrounded by TOO acres of fine hang- 
 ing woods, in the centre of a deer park and overlooking the 
 rich vale of the Derwent. From .\li>orthill, in this township, 
 it is said that the Wrekin, in Shropshire, may be seen. 
 
 H. Crich obelisk, from which extensive views are obtained. 
 
 From Cromford to Ashford-in-tlie-Water, see Road Sketch, 
 No. 3. 
 
 At Uowsley Bridge there is a road that leads to Chatsworth. 
 
 Clialswor/h, the superb mansion of His Grace the Duke of 
 Devonshire, has been reckoned one of the wonders of the 
 Peak. It is situate in a spacious valley, near the foot of a 
 lofty mountain, covered with wood, on the highest part of 
 which is the hunting-tower. The present magnificent build- 
 ing was erected on the site of a more ancient structure, by 
 the first Duke of Devonshire. The architect was William 
 Talman. comptroller of the works to William III. It is com- 
 posed of four nearly equal sides, with an open quadrangular 
 court within. The whole has recently been much enlarged 
 and improved, under the direction of Sir JefTry Wyatville, 
 architect to his Majesty. In Chatsworth park many delightful 
 views occur, which are chiefly terminated by the moorland 
 scenery of Derbyshire. — The iriterinr of the quadrangular 
 court is richly ornamented. Two sides of this court have 
 open balconies, with stone balustrades and busts, representing 
 the most distinguished persons in the reign of Queen Anne. 
 There are also military trophies executed from the designs of 
 Cr. Gibbon, the celebrated carver in wood, by Mr. .Samuel 
 Watson, a native of the Peak, who attained uncommon ex- 
 ctllence in sculpturing ornaments in bas-relief. The middle 
 of the court is occupied with the statue of Arion, seated on 
 the back of adolphm. The flight of steps which connects the 
 hall with the grand staircase passes between rocks of alabaster. 
 The paintings are numerous an<l by the first masters. Among 
 the sculptures are the busts of the late C.J. Fox, and the 
 Duke of Devcmshire by Nollckens ; and also an elegant whole- 
 length figure of Mary Queen of Scots, by Westm.acot. Chats- 
 worth also abounds with exquisite carving in wood, the woik 
 of the famous G. Gibbon. The ancient mansion was for 
 some time the residence, or rather the prison, of Mary Queen 
 of Scots, in remembrance of which a suite of apartments are 
 still called by her name; and near the bridge, by the side of 
 the Derwent, there are the remains of an old building called 
 the Bower of .Mary Queen of Scots — The celebrated philoso- 
 |>her Hobbes resided at Chatsworth under the patronage of the 
 Cavendish family, and died at Hardwick at the age of 91.'; in 
 the year 1G79. The park is nearly eleven miles in circum- 
 ference. 
 ft. Ashford Hall, the residence of William Ashby Ashby, esq. 
 L,. .Marble mills, and the black marble mines. One mile from 
 Ashford. leave Monsal Dale on the R. and pa-ss through Tad- 
 ding ton Dale.
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 Taddingtoii - 
 
 V 
 ■^'i 
 
 Toplev Pike - 
 
 2 
 
 rig Tor 
 
 2 
 
 BUXTON, lG4w. from 
 
 n 
 
 liOndon 
 
 
 Centre Hotel 
 
 
 Crescent Hotel 
 
 
 Cireat Hotel 
 
 
 The Anirel 
 
 
 Hall 
 
 
 George 
 
 
 Grove 
 
 
 Eagle 
 
 
 Shalsspeare 
 
 
 to Tkkswell, Ih m. Cr3" 
 
 
 'to Leek, 12 »«. 
 
 
 J Macck.fidd, 1 m. 
 "^1 Manchester, 2\!m. 
 (_ Cmiirlcton, Id m. 
 
 
 
 
 White Hall - 
 
 2f 
 
 Shallcross Mill 
 
 3 
 
 to ClMjid-en-le-Frith, 
 
 
 24 m. OS- 
 
 
 29 
 
 344 
 
 3Gi 
 
 38 
 
 40f 
 433 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 A very high hill, on the side of which the road is carried along a 
 fearful eminence into the dale below. Chee Tor lies about a 
 mile lower down the river than Topley I'ike. 
 
 Pi^ Tor, a high barren rock on the right of the river. 
 
 Lover's Leap a jutting rock, situate in a picturesque ravine, 
 amongst wild and romantic scenery. 
 
 Buxton. This place has been celebrated from the earliest period 
 for its hot baths; and there is reason to believe that the Ro- 
 mans, who were always attached to bathing, made it a pl,ice 
 of resort. Whatever may be the real effects of the mineral 
 waters, the place has risen in public estimation. It is sur- 
 rounded by hills, and though the neighbourhood is not in- 
 viting, yet suih is the prevalence of fashlonabli- taste, that this 
 town has become a spot frequented by fashion and rank 
 during the summer and autumnal months. The Crescent was 
 erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, from the designs of 
 Mr. Carr. In completing the Crescent, with the stables, the 
 Duke expended not less than £1'J0,0()0. In this elegant pile 
 of buildings, are the Centre, the Great Motel, and St. Anne's 
 Hotel; besides various elegant lodging houses, a theatre, an 
 assembly-room and a news room. The baths are six in num- 
 ber, one for ladies, another for gentlemen, and three private 
 ones for persons of distinction, besides a cold bath. There is 
 alst) a bath for the poor, who meet with great attention and 
 aid, to which the cliaritable contributions of the respectable 
 visitors are rendered subservient. The temperature of the 
 water, as it rises at the baths, is .ibout 82 degrees of Fahren- 
 heit. At St. Anne's well, where it is drank, it is somewhat 
 cooler: there btith hot and cold water is obtained from springs 
 scarcely twelve inches asunder. Buxton church is a neat and 
 chaste specimen of doric architecture. This town contains 
 190 houses and 1,100 inhabitants. 
 Po(d's Hole, Axe Edge, the limestone huts and other curiosities 
 are to be seen in the immediate neighlwurliood. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 5. 
 
 JOURNEY from MANSFIELD to WHALEY-BRIDGE, through Chesterfield, 
 Stony Middleton, Tideswell and Chapel-en-le-Frith. 
 
 MANSFIELD, 
 
 138 ?«. from London 
 to Newark, 194 ?«. | 
 Worksop, Vim. j 
 
 ■^ ( Matlock, 1() VI. 
 
 \-n 
 
 Pleasley, Derbyshire 
 
 to Stony 
 1 m 
 
 my Houfflitmi, \ 
 . thence to Bui- >- 
 T, 34 m. ) 
 
 CJ- 
 
 Glapwell 
 
 Pleaslejj. Rather more than half a mile from this small village 
 there is a dell that displays the most romantic scenery imagin- 
 able, and leads to an extensive range of cotton works, called 
 Pleasley Forge, which are situate on the rivulet that divides 
 the counties of Nottingham and Derby; though this enchant- 
 ing spot has not been generally notieeil, yet it exhibits all the 
 picturesque beauty and sublime effect of Dovedalf and Mat- 
 lock, andcaimot fail to receive the admiration of the traveller. 
 
 Hardtuklc Hull, a seat of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire. 
 This I'ar-fanied and very interesting mansion stands on a bold 
 eminence in a fine deer park, well stocked with m.ijeslic tim- 
 ber; it is of stone, with a lofty tower at each corner, and a 
 spacious court in front, surrounded by a high wall The 
 buildingwaserected in thelatter part of the 16th century, and 
 forms an excellent speein-.en of those houses which have so 
 frequently been termed Elizabethan : the apartments are 
 lofty and large, but ilefective in point of elegance of propor- 
 tions; many of them are hung with arras, and the injijority of 
 the chimneys are suflitieiitly capacious for a hall or kitchen; 
 the great gallery, chietly remarkable for its extent, ranges 
 aliiii^ the whole of the east front, and is ILto feet long. In this 
 mansion the beautiful .Mary Queen of Scots passed several 
 yi:irs of her captivity, and many of the apartiiunts derive 
 great interest from the furniture and other articles preserved 
 in remembrance of that injured princess; those oeeu pud by 
 her are situate on the second floor, and remain almost exactly 
 as she left them ; and the bed and chairs in one of the riK)ms 
 were end)roidered by her own fair but ill-fated hand. This 
 venerable scat is enriched with a valuable eolltction of paint- 
 ings, one \>{ which is a portrait of the above queen, taken in 
 the tenth year of her imprisonment; she is attired in black, 
 her cheek is faded, her lips are thin, her eyes hollow, and the 
 picture appears to represent the spectre of herself, the shadow 
 of beauty ! Near to the hall are the ruins of the ancient castle 
 or hall, which coiitiuned one of the best proportioned rooms 
 in the kingdom. 
 /{. Glapwell Hall, the seat of Thomas Halluwes, esq.
 
 XXX VI 
 
 llOAD SKETCHES. 
 
 London to BOLSOVEJi, 
 14.54 "*• 
 
 Heath - 
 
 Hasland 
 
 Near Chi'slcrfidd, 
 .r4) io Deil»i, 23.1 m. 
 CHICSlKliVlELD, 
 mo in. from London 
 Angel Inn 
 Commercial Inn 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 Objects worth// of notice. 
 
 liohnvcr is a small decayed market-town, situate on the brow of 
 a steep hill overlooking a great extent of country, and con. 
 tains 210 houses and 1,.S{KI inhal)itants, who are chiefly em- 
 ployed in agricultUTe. In the church isamonnnient to the 
 niem(iry of .sir Charles Cavendish, with a long and remark- 
 able inscription, expressive of his virtues : several persons 
 of this \\u\i\c family are huried here. This town, at the period 
 of the Xonnan .Survey, belonged to William Peverel, who is 
 supposed to have built a castle near the spot, now occupied 
 by the present mansion, which was erected about the year Itil3 
 by Sir Charles Cavendish, and is a square, lofty and embattled 
 fabric of brown stone, having a tower at each angle, that at 
 the north-east being much higher and larger than the others. 
 A flight of steps, on the east side, leads through a passage to 
 the hall (the roof of which is supported on stone pillars) and 
 tlience, t" the only room designed for habitation on this floor ; 
 this apartment has an arched ceiling, sustained by a pillar in 
 the centre, round which is a plain circular dining-table. Most 
 of the upper rooms are small and not numerous, the stairs and 
 ceilings are of stone, and the floors of plaster. William, first 
 Duke of Newcastle, son and successor to Sir Charles, was a 
 very distinguished supporter of the royal cause, and is said to 
 have suflcred a greater deprivation of fortune, in its delence, 
 than anv other person, his losses being computed at nearly 
 ^D.iO.llOO. This nobleman gave a superb entertainment in 
 this niansion to ( harles the I'irst and his ([ueen, in the year 
 l(i.'!3. All the neighlionring gentry were invited to partake in 
 the festival, which was conducted in such a magniticent style 
 that the expenses amounted to nearly .£l!j,000. The scenery 
 and speeches were devised by Ren .lonson. On this occasion 
 the Duke relinquished his seat at WeUieck, to the sovereign 
 and his court, and resided himself at Bolsover. 
 
 The Duchess, in her Life of the Duke, observes, that, " When 
 Charles the First went into Scotland to be crowned, he took 
 his way through Nottinghamshire, ami lying at Worksop 
 manor, two milesdistant from Welbeck, the Marquess invited 
 his majesty thither to dinner, which the king accepted. This 
 entertainment cost between 4 and ^.i.OOH. and his majesty 
 liked it so well, that he sent my lord word that the queen was 
 resolved to make a progress into the northern parts, desiring 
 him to prepare the like entertainment, which he did with all 
 possible care and industry, sparing nothing which might add 
 splendour to the feast, which both their majesties were to 
 honour with theirpresencc." — It is probable that this splendid 
 entertainment was held in the magnificent building to the west 
 of the old fabric, erected by the Duke, which is now in ruins. 
 The dimensions of the gallery was 2A) feet in length and i8 
 feet wide. In the front of this building was a fine terrace, 
 from which a flight of steps led to theentrance. At thesouth 
 end of the garden is a very curious decayed fountain, standing 
 in an octagon reservoir, six feet deep, and ornamented with 
 satyrs, masks, birds and other figures. On the pedestal is a 
 figure of Venus in alabaster, represented holding wet drapery, 
 and in the action of stepping out of a bath. IJolsover castle 
 was an important station ilunng the civil wars. 
 
 Sutton Hall, about four miles north of Hardwick, has been the 
 seat (if several affluent and ilistinguished families. In the 
 time of Henry III. it belonged to the family of liarestone, 
 whose heir-gciieial married to a Grey, of a younger branch of 
 the Lords Grey of Codnor Castle. The heir general of Grey 
 carried it, in marriage, to the Leaks, one of whom was cre- 
 ated, by Charles \. Baron D'Kincourt, and Karl of Scarsdale, 
 After the death of the last Earl of . Scarsdale, it was sold to 
 several land-jobbers, v.ho re-sold it to Godfrey Clarke, esq. of 
 Chilcote ; it afterwards jiassed under the will of Godfrey Hag- 
 nail Clarkp,esq. to 'i'homas Kinnersley,esq. Anne, daughter 
 and solo heiress of Joseph I'ryce Clarke, esq. married Waller, 
 Karl of Ormond, and brought the estate to that family. The 
 present Marquess has sold this and his other Derbyshire es- 
 tates within these fewyears. Sutton Hall and cstatewas pur. 
 chased by Richard Arkwright, esq. for .£^17,000. The man. 
 sion is a noble building, situate on a tine elevation, over, 
 looking a large deer.|)ark, and commanding extensive views 
 over the surrounding country. 
 
 Hasland Hall. 
 
 Clicsterjield , see notice of. Road Sketch, No. 2. 
 
 In Krainpton Church there are some curious monuments. 
 
 L, Chatsworth House, see description of, Road Sketch, No. 4. 
 
 Hassop Hall is situate in a pleasant valley. It was garrisoned 
 for the king in Itii.S by Colonel Eyre, a brave ofMcer, who 
 distinguished himself in an eminent manner at the siege of 
 Newark. A good portrait of this gentleman adcuns one 
 of the rooms of the present mansion. The gardens are ex-
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 XXXVll 
 
 to Jiak'welU I'im.^ 
 Whist, r, 12 w. I 
 Drnnfuld, 6 m. \ C> 
 Mullock li. \0m. I 
 Wiiksxi'orth, 13 m. ) 
 Asligate 
 Brampton 
 Uaslow 
 
 <|:t3 to Bakewell, 4 »«. 
 Calver 
 
 Cross the Dcrwcnt 
 Stony Middleton - 
 Moon Inn 
 
 AVardlow 
 
 TIDESWELL,160m. 
 
 from London 
 C') '" Buxton, 7 m. 
 Peak Forest - 
 Sparrow Pit - 
 CHAPRL-EN-LE- 
 FllITH - 
 lloyal Oak Inn 
 King's Head Inn 
 Whaley liridge 
 Cross the river Goijtc and 
 enter Cheshire 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 26 
 
 28i 
 
 32 
 3i 
 
 3G 
 39 i 
 
 Objects worttty of notice. 
 
 cellent, and contain a valuable collection of exotic plants. 
 The late Earl of Newbiirgh built a neat Koiiiai) Catholic 
 chapel near to the hall. The altar is of Italian marble, of tlie 
 chastest workniaiiship ; the painting of our Saviour on the 
 cross, over the altar-piece, is an exquisite picture. Tlie vil. 
 lage is pleasantly siluale on a gentle slope, overlooking tomc 
 well-cultivated vales, and screened from the northern blasts 
 by a chain of hills that rise liigii above it. 'I'he cottages are 
 surrounded by laburnums, laurels, evergreens, rose-trees and 
 flowers, which perfume the air with tlieir fragance, the whole 
 possessing an appearance of cleanliness, comfort and social 
 happiness. 
 
 Cotton Mills and lime quarries. 
 
 Stoiii/ Middleton. This village is romantically situate at the 
 entrance of Middleton Dale. The cottages are scattered 
 amongat the rocks in a very picturesque manner, one rising 
 above another from the base to the summit of the mountain. 
 The church is a modern octagon structure and exhibits 
 nothing particularly worthy of notice, 'i'wo neat stone build- 
 ings occupy the site of a very ancient bath, supposed to have 
 been orignially established by the Romans when they occupied 
 a station at lirough. These baths have been hlted up in a very 
 handsome manner by the present worthy proprietor, Thomas 
 Denman, esq. M. P. common sergeant of London, who 
 liberally permits them to be open for the accommodation of 
 the public. 'I'he rock scenery in Middleton Dale is of a bold 
 and striking character. The inhabitants in this village are 
 about '00, whose chief support is derived from the lead mines, 
 agriculture and lime burning. 
 
 Passing through Middleton, a high perpendicular rock, called 
 the Lover's Leap, marks the first grand opening into the Dale. 
 From thesummit of tills fearful precipice, about the year HfiO, 
 a love-stricken damsel of the name of liaddeley threw herself 
 into the chasm below; and, incredible as it may appear, she 
 sustained but little injury from the desperate attempt: her 
 face was a little disfigured, and her body bruised, by tlie bram- 
 bles and the rocky projections that interrupted her fall ; but 
 she was enabled to walk to her home with very little assistance. 
 Her bonnet, cap and handkerchief were left on thesummit of 
 the rock, and some fragments of her torn garments, that 
 waved in the few bushes through which she had passed, mark- 
 ed the course of her descent; she therefore reluriitd to her 
 dwelling shorn of part of her habiliments. Her marvellous 
 escape made a serious impression on her mind, and gave a 
 new turn to her feelings: her tit of love subsided ; and she 
 ever afterwards lived, in a very exemplary manner, in the 
 vicinity of the place which had been the scene of her folly ; 
 and she died unmarried. 
 
 The crags which form one side of Middleton Dale are boldly 
 featured, and the parts are broad and'massy. Half way from 
 their base they are nuich broken, and present many smaller 
 projections and recesses ; then commences a lofty range of 
 perpendicular rock, the diflerent strata of wliich are defined 
 by lines running horizontally athwart its sides. The regular 
 tower and turret-like forms which the stony heights in this 
 dale assume, have, in many places, so much the efl'cct of an 
 old castellated building, that, viewed frointheroad below, the 
 eye sometimes doubts whether it contemplates the works of 
 nature or of art. 
 
 Stdtcc Hall is indisputably one of the most delightful residences 
 in the north of Derbyshire ; and though not sutfieiently capa- 
 cious for the purposes of magnificence and siilendour, it might 
 be selected as a tit and happy home for the comforts and ele- 
 gances of life, Its architecture is neat and simple — neither 
 poor for want of ornament, nor gaudy with profusion ; anrt it 
 stands on a graceful eminence near the brink of the river 
 Derwent, embosomed in some of the most charming wood- 
 scenery in Derbyshire. The river, as it i)asses the grounds of 
 Stoke, is a fine stream ; black with shadow, it glides majes- 
 tically along. This beautiful place is the jiroperty of the 
 Hon. Bridgeman Simpson, and is at present occupied by 
 Hobert Arkwright, esq. 
 
 TulfivM, see description of, Road Sketch, No. ,". 
 
 Kldcn Hole, another of the Peak wonders, lies about 3 miles S. E. 
 of Castletun. 
 
 L Kbbing and Flowing Well, one of the seven wonders of the 
 Peak. 
 
 Railway to Peak Forest canal. 
 
 Uiaihi-niU-ViUh, sec description of, Road Sketch, No. 3. 
 
 L. Uank Hall. 
 
 Five miles to the right of Chanel-en-le-Frith is Castleton, situate 
 in a beautiful valley. This' village is celebrated for its raiues, 
 cavern, castle and rock scenery.
 
 XXX VI 11 
 
 llOAD SKETCHES. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 6. 
 
 JOURNEY from DERBY to UTTOXETER, 19 miles. 
 
 DERBY 
 
 31ickleover 
 
 Etwall 
 
 Hilton 
 Foston 
 
 i\ston 
 Sudbury 
 
 Doveridge 
 
 Cross the rhcr Dove 
 
 UTTOXETER 
 
 3 
 
 
 n 
 
 5| 
 
 2 
 
 34- 
 
 U 
 
 2 
 
 73 
 
 lU 
 
 123 
 13i 
 
 3i 
 
 16f 
 
 n 
 
 19 
 
 Objects worthy of notice. 
 
 Rectorv, Hon. and Uev. Frederic Curzon. 
 
 R. Rai'iborne Hall, the seat of E. S. C Pole, esq. 
 
 Etwall Hall, Mrs. Green Cotton. 
 
 Alms Houses, endowed by Sir John Port Several beautiful 
 monuments in the church of the Port family. 
 
 Hilton Cotlage, William Simpson, esq. M. D. 
 
 Foston Hall, John Broadhurst,esq. occupied by Colonel Wood. 
 
 L. Ruins of Tutbury Castle. 
 
 Sudltiiry Hull, the seat of Lord Vernon, is a well-proportioned 
 brick structure, with two wings ; it contains several elegantly 
 decorated apartments, and a large gallery that runs through 
 the house, all of which are aduriied with good paintings. lu the 
 garden, at a short distance from the mansion, stands the 
 church, an ancient fabric that forms a fine picturesque object 
 from bring luxuriantly inanlled with ivy: it contains a num- 
 ber of monuments of the Vernon family, whose remains have 
 regularly been deposited here for the last two centuries. 
 
 Doivridire Hall. Among the many beauties of this county, whe- 
 ther of nature or of art, few exceed those of the mansion and 
 estate bearing this name, about three miles from Sudbury; 
 which has long been the family mansion of a younger branch 
 of the Cavendish family, placed on an eminence on the banks 
 of the river Dove, and abounding in fine timber, with the 
 grounds most tastefully planned, it is an object of constant 
 admiration to every visitor of this romantic neighbourhood. 
 This house is of great extent, and combines grandeur with 
 convenience. The seat of Lord Waterpark. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 7. 
 
 JOURNEY from SHEFFIELD to BUXTON. 
 
 Little Sheffield 
 Bents Green 
 Ringing-Low Turn- 
 
 pike 
 Grindleford Bridge, 
 
 Derbyshire 
 Cross iltc river Derwent 
 €^ to Ba};r-u,dl, ly Calver 
 
 and Ilassop, Q\ 7>i. 
 Stony ]\JiddIeton - 
 Wardlow Turnpike 
 
 4:0 io Bale-j.'eU, ji m. 
 Division of the Road 
 toShrfficld,bi,HuckA 
 lo-x, 16A vu \ 
 
 ChapcUn-le- \ '■~^ 
 
 Fnth, 7i vu J 
 i to BaUewell, 1\ m. 
 ■C^) < Chestc-rfeld, by Sto- 
 ( nij Middleton,\6m 
 TIDESWELL - 
 Hargate Wall 
 Fairfield 
 BUXTON . 
 MANCHESTER 
 
 2 
 
 3^ 
 
 If 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 34 
 
 m 
 
 15| 
 
 If 
 
 m 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 23 
 
 48 
 
 Leam Hall is the seat of Marmaduke Middleton Middleton, esq. 
 Longshaw, the shooting seat of the Duke of Rutland. 
 Stoke Hall, the residence of Robert Arkwright, esq. is noticed 
 iu Road Sketch, No. 5. 
 
 Stony Middleton, the seat of Thomas Denman, esq. Common 
 Sergeant of London, and M. P. for Nottingham, see notice 
 of. Road Sketch, No. 5. 
 
 Tideswell, see notice of, Road Sketch, No. 5. 
 
 Buxton, see history of, pagel. and notice of. Road Sketch, 
 No. 4.
 
 ROAD SKETCHES. 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 8. 
 
 JOURNEY from LICHFIELD to SHEFFIELD, through Ashbourn, M'inster 
 
 and BakeweU. 
 
 'to Balk, lOllm. 
 Walsall, 10 m. 
 43) \ Itugclry, 7 m. 
 
 Abbots Bromley, 
 \2m. 
 Cross the Grand Trunk 
 
 Canal 
 Kings Bromley 
 Yoxall Brid<:;e 
 
 Cross the river Trent 
 Yoxall 
 Over Needzvood Forest, 
 
 to 
 Forest Church 
 
 I m. further^ 
 4:^ to A bbols Bihnileij, 5m. 
 to BurtoH-upon- \ ^^ 
 
 Trent, Im. j ^ 
 
 Draycott 
 
 I m. before Draycott, 
 
 ^ to Uttoxeter, 6\ in. 
 
 Cross the river Dove and 
 
 enter DerbysJnre 
 Sudbury 
 
 to Derby, T3| m. Ccj- 
 4:0 to Uttoxeter, .'j^ m. 
 Cubley 
 Clifton 
 
 ASHBOURN 
 Sandy-Brook 
 Woodheaves 
 Bradbourn Toll-bar 
 Grange IVlill 
 4:0 to Wirhs-xorth, 5 m. 
 to Neteliaven, 5 m. CrJ" 
 WINSTEll 
 Stanton Toll-gate - 
 EAKEVVEL[. - 
 to Wirks-u'Orth, I2^m.(^ 
 ^.i to Leek, 1 8| ?«. 
 ■^ ( Tideswell, 7| m. 
 Hassop 
 to Chesterfield, by^ ^ 
 
 Baslow, \0m. f 
 Calver . - - 
 A little farther, 
 to Chesterfield, 10?«. CJ" 
 
 4:13 to TidcsweU, 6 m. 
 Grindleford Bridge 
 
 43) to Tideswell, 7 m. 
 by Huckloxv and Stony 
 
 Middlcton, 8 m. 
 Cross the river Derwent 
 and cnicr the High 
 Moors 
 Ringing-Low Turn- 
 pike - - - 
 
 j to Chapel-en-le- 
 ^ i Frith, 15 m. 
 SHEFFIELD - 
 
 5i 
 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 
 \0\ 
 
 n 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 ^ 
 
 19i 
 
 H 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 27 
 
 U 
 
 28 i 
 
 5 
 
 334 
 
 3 
 
 3Gi 
 
 n 
 
 39 
 
 4. 
 
 43 
 
 3 
 
 46 
 
 If 
 
 47^ 
 
 H 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 55 
 
 5 
 
 60 
 
 Objects worthy nf notice. 
 
 Lichfield is a pleasant and very ancient citv, more celebrated for 
 being the residence of numerous clergy than for its manufac- 
 ture. 
 
 Lichfield Cathedral is a large and beautiful pothic building, 
 universally admired. The ex(|uisite sculpture, by Chantrev, 
 of Mr. Kobinson's two chiKiren, is considered to be the 
 master-piece of that celebrated artist. 
 
 Voxall Lodge, the seat of the Rev. Thomas Gisborne. 
 
 L. Sudbury Hall, the seat of Lord Vernon, see notice of. Road 
 Sketch, No. 6. 
 
 Doveridge Hall, two miles farther, is the seat of Lord Water- 
 park. See notice of. Road Sketch, No. 6. 
 
 Aslibourn, see Road Sketch, No. 1. 
 
 Sandy-brook Hall, the seat of Sir Matthew Blakiston, bart. 
 
 At Woodheaves are extensive cotton mills. 
 
 About a mile to the left of Woodheaves is Tissington Hall, the 
 
 seat of Sir Henry Fitz Herbert, bart. 
 L. Parwieh Hall, the property of William Evans, esq. M. P. is 
 
 occupied by the Rev. J. E. Carr, 
 
 fViii.tlcr, an ancient decayed market-town, chiefly supported by 
 minint; and agriculture : weaving and lace-running gives em- 
 ployment to a small portion of the inhabitants. 
 
 L. Mock Beggar Hall, a curious group of grit.Uone rocks. 
 
 R. Stanton House, the seat of Bache Thornhill, esq. 
 
 R. Haddon Hall, the seat of the Duke of Rutland. 
 
 Bak-ewell, see history of, page 70. and notice of. Road Sketch. 
 No. 3. 
 
 L. Hassop Hall, the seat of the Earl of Newburgh. 
 
 At Calver there are extensive lime-quarries and kilns, and a 
 
 handsome cotton mill. 
 L. Stoke Hall, the propertvof the Hon.Bridgeman Simpson, is 
 
 occupied by Robert Arkwright, esq. 
 R. Longshaw, the shooting scat of tlie Duke of Rutland. 
 L. Learn Hall, the seat of Marmaduke Middleton Middleton, 
 
 esq.
 
 xl 
 
 PtOAD SKETCHES. 
 
 ROAD SKETCH, No. 9. 
 
 JOURNEY from SHEFFIELD to MANCHESTER. 
 
 2 
 3i 
 
 13J 
 15 
 
 19 
 
 21 
 241 
 
 Little Sheffield - \ li 
 
 ^io Worksop, 19^ TO. 
 to lluddersfeU, ) 
 
 2G\m. J-C^' 
 
 Barnsley, ISJ m. J 
 Bents Green 
 llinrring-Low Turn- 
 pike 
 4:^3/0 Bakrrcell, Hi m. 
 Hathersage - 
 Cross the river Dcrwent 
 Hope - - - 
 Castleton 
 
 i to Tidcs-.ccll 
 ^^ \ Buxton 
 Sparrow Pit - 
 Cr'Ms the PeaJc Forest 
 Canal 
 CHAPEL-EX-LE- 
 FRITH - 
 4r-) '" Buxton, 6 m. 
 Whaley Bridj^e 
 Cross the river Goyte and 
 
 enter Cheshire 
 Dish ley 
 Hoo Lane 
 Bullock Smithy 
 4^3 /() Macclesfield, 9^ m. 
 STOCKPORl' - 
 to Barnslcv, 33 m. \ .^ 
 Huddrrsfirhl, 28m. f ^ 
 Cross the river Mersey 
 and enter Lancashire 
 Heaton Norris 
 Levensholme 
 Ardwick Green 
 4:0 /" Cong-lcton, 23| m. 
 
 Cross the Canal 
 MANCHESTER 2 1 403 
 
 27| 
 29i 
 314 
 
 2| : 34 
 
 U : 35. 
 1? i 3fi| 
 2 383 
 
 Objects worthy of nntiee. 
 
 Shrfpcli is the third market-town in the county of York in 
 I'uiinber of inhabitants, and celebrated for its hardware manu- 
 factures. 
 
 Hathersage is a pleasant village, celebrated for the manufacture 
 of needle; and buttons. 
 
 Hathersase Hall is tlieseat of Ashton Ashton Shuttleworth,esq. 
 
 L. Broiigh, forme-.ly a llonian Station. 
 
 Hnpe is a small pleasant market-town. 
 
 Castleton, seated in a deep valley, is celebrated for its ancient 
 castle and mines; the cavern ; theshiveringmountnin, c.illed 
 Mam Tor; the besutifiil fluorspar: the Speedwell level ; the 
 encampment on Mam Tor, iic. sec History of, page 57. 
 
 C?iripel-en-le-Frit!i, a small market-town, see Ro^d Sketch, 
 No 3. Near to Chapel-en-le-Frith is the celebrated Ebbing 
 and Flowing well. 
 
 L. Bank Hall, the spat of John Frith, esq. 
 
 Taxall Lodge, the seat of G. W. Newton, esq. 
 
 Lyme Park, the seat of Thomas Legh, esq. 
 
 Stock-port is a large market-town, supported chiefly by the cotton 
 trade. 
 
 Manchester is the second town in the kingdom in numlier of in- 
 habitants, and is celebrated for its manufacture of cotton 
 goods, in which the majority of the people is employed. It 
 is the centre of a great manufacturing district: and by itsclose 
 connexion with Liverpool, by means of the now rail-road, 
 has become one of the most distinguished towns of the 
 empire. It is the chief mart in the world for the articles 
 manufaclured in the surrounding populous towns. 
 
 Index of the Distance between the firincipal Townx in the County of Derhj. 
 
 Distance from Mancliester. 
 
 .51 
 
 46 Ashboum 
 
 34 Bakewell 
 
 54 Belper 
 
 Distance from London. 
 Alfreton ... 142 
 
 19 I Ashboum 159 
 
 15 I K; I Bakewell 152 
 
 8 I 14 I IS I Belper 154 
 
 Bolsover | H HHi^l 1*^ I B"lsover 145 
 
 25 I 21 1 12 I 
 
 24 Buxton 
 
 25 Castleton 
 
 18 Chapel-2n-le-Frith 
 
 48 Chesterfield 
 
 59 Derby 
 
 'J9 I Buxton 1.59 
 
 24 I 2fi I 10 I 28 I '-'fi I 10 I Castleton 162 
 
 28 1 26 I 14 I .---' I 21) I 
 
 I 8 I Chapel-cn-lc-Frith 1C3 
 
 ~|~nr|T6 I 6 I 21 I 17 I 25 I Chesterfield. 1.50 
 
 126 
 
 1.5 I 27 I 8 I 24 I .35 I 56 | 51 | 24 | Derby 
 
 42 Matlock Bath I irilTl ll > | 9 | 17 | ^2 | 20 | 24 | 1 1 | 17 | Matlock Bath. 143 
 
 45 Wirksworth | 11 | 9 | 15 | 6 | 19 | 25 | 25 | 26 | 14 | 14 | 5 J VVirksworth 1.59 
 
 The Names of the respective Towns are on the Top and .Side, and the square where both meet gives the 
 distance.
 
 THE 
 
 PEAK GUIDE. 
 BUXTON. 
 
 BUXTON, a celebrated watering-place, is situate near tlie N. W. extremity of the 
 Bawkestanes, county, in a deep hollow or valley on the banks of the romantic river 
 Wye; long. T .50' W. ; lat. -33° 5' N. ; 34 m. N. N. W. from Derby, by way of 
 Ashbourn ; 38 m. by way of Belper, Cromford, Matlock and liakewell (by the new 
 road which passes along the banks of the river Derwent, through a valley of great 
 picturesque beauty, considered by most travellers one of the finest drives in England) 
 25 m. S. from Manchester, C m. S. W. from Chapel-en-le- Frith, 7 m. N. W. from 
 Tideswell, 12 ra. N. W. from Bakewell, 21 m. N. from Ashbourn, 24 m. W. from 
 Chesterfield, and 160 m. N. N. W. from London. It is a market-town, township 
 and parochial chapelry, partly in the parish of Hope, but principally in the parish of 
 Bakewell, in the constablery of Chelmorton and hundred of High Peak. In 1821, 
 the number of houses, wliich are chiefly built of stone and washed over, were 184, 
 occupied by 188 families, and 1036 inhabitants. Of the 188 families, 115 were re- 
 turned as being engaged in agi-icultural pursuits, 57 in trade and handicraft, 16 pro- 
 fessionally, &:c. 
 
 The principal dependence of the inhabitants is more upon the crowds who assemble 
 here during the bathing season than on any regular employment. It is computed 
 that the public and private lodging-houses Vvfill accommodate from twelve to fifteen 
 hundred persons at one time, besides the resident inhabitants. Several shops for the 
 manufacture and sale of fluor spar and marble ornaments are established in the town, 
 and the elegant repository of Mr. Hall, for these articles, and that of ISIessrs. Bright 
 and Sons, for hardware and jewellery, attract the visitors. 
 
 The diamonds procured in the neighbourhood may be seen here in great variety. 
 They are made up in handsome ornaments, such as rings, brooches, and various arti- 
 cles of jewellery. 
 
 There is a weekly market, on Saturday, for corn and provisions ; and four fairs 
 during the year, held on February 3nl, April 1st, .May 2ud, and September 8tii, for 
 sheep, cattle, horses and pedlery, obtained by grant in 1813. 
 
 The township of Buxton is bounded by Chelmorton on the south, Hartington 
 Upper Quarter and Fairfield west, and Fairfield to Topley Pike, in Taddington, 
 south-east. The Wye divides the townships of Buxton and Fairfield, and part of 
 the offices belonging to the Crescent stand in the latter. 
 
 The township includes Cowdale, King's Sterndale, and Staden, and consists of 
 748 a. 3 r. 28 /). of old enclosed, and 977 a. 3 7: 25 p. of newly enclosed land ; the en- 
 closure, under an Act of Parliament, was completed in 1774. The land is chiefly lime-
 
 2 BUXToy. 
 
 stone, and principally meadow and pasture. The tithes of hay, com, wool and lamb, 
 belong to the Duke of Devonshire, who re-lets thera. and the occupiers compound with 
 the taiers. The land is divided amonjr 19 resident and 7 non-resident proprietors ; the 
 principal of whom are His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, who owns nearly the whole 
 of the buildinsrs in the town, and upwards of 1000 acres of land in the township ; 
 Georse Goodwin, esq. Samuel Barker and Thomas Buxton, gents. Messrs. AVilliam 
 and Ralph Birch, A\'iLUara, Joseph, and George Swann, John Bennet, ^Villiam Cot- 
 terell, Robert NaU, sen. and jun. Joseph and John Turner, George Hobson, John 
 
 AVard, George \\'ood, Joseph Vernon, Thomas Cooper, WiDiam Dawson, 
 
 Ensor, Turner, Farmer, Mrs. Pott, and Mrs. Ann Finney. The estima- 
 ted annual value of all the buildings and land is £3810. 4.$. 2J. The average of five 
 years parochial expenses, including poor, county rate, constables' accounts, and the 
 repairs of the bv-ways, is £505. and the church rate about £4-"2. per annum. The 
 parishioners join Middlewich House of Industry, where the paupers are sent at a cost 
 of S.v. per week each. There are two men's clubs, one endowed parochial school, one 
 Sundav school at the "Wesleyan Methodist chapel, maintained by the voluntary con- 
 tributions of the society, one Calvinist chapel, three bridges, two across the ^^ ye, and 
 one across Hogshaw brook, which are repaired at the expense of the county, and 
 fifteen inns in the township. 
 
 Buxton is parcel of the king's manor of the High Peak, on lease to the Duke of 
 Devonshire. His Grace holds a court annually. 
 
 Antiquarians have disagreed as to the derivation of the name. Dr. Jones, one of 
 the earliest writers concerning Buxton, conjectures the name to be derived from the 
 stags, or bucks, taking soyle there when wounded, whence it was called, by the 
 foresters, Buckstand. And as the place formed a part of the king's great forest of the 
 Peak (Picus) which was certainly well stocked ^vith deer of various kinds, the con- 
 jecture is ingenious. Mr. Gough traces the name from bnc, and coiit ; that is, the 
 warm springs among rocks ; and Dr. Pearson thinks tlie name may have originated 
 from the German bockstein, or the English stein-bock, or wild goat. The prommci- 
 ation of the word Bockstein certainly comes nearer the name as written in Doomsday 
 Survey, viz. Bawkestanes. — These are the vague conjectures of antiquarians. They 
 would have found a more simple derivation from the Saxon word, which gives us the 
 word bucket, and from which a basket of linen carried to be washed was called the 
 buckiitg-hasket. The Buck or Bucking Stanes, meant simply rocks that were fre- 
 quented, as they are now, for the purposes of bathing. 
 
 The antiquity of this npw fashionable watering-place has been clearly proved by 
 the most renowned antiquarians. That its warm springs were known to the Romans, 
 is evident from various concurring circumstances. Several ancient roads concentrate 
 at this place, particularly two great military- roads — the one connecting Manchester 
 with Little Chester, and the other running from Middlewich and Congleton to 
 Brough, near Hope, in the Peak, and thence to York and Aldborough. The latter, 
 called the Bathivaif, or Bathomgate, was traced by the late Dr. Pegge ; the former is 
 known in different parts of its course by the appellation of High Street, Street Fields, 
 Street Lane, o^c. Dr. Gale, as appears from a manuscript of his, quoted in Gough's 
 Ad(htions to the Britannia, by Camden, placed the Aquis of Ravennas at Buxton. 
 Specimens of Roman workmanship have been discovered here. Bishop Gibson men- 
 tions a Roman wall cemented with red plaster, close by St. Anne's well, where are 
 the ruins of the ancient bath. This wall was taken down in 1 709, when Sir Thomas 
 Delves, a Cheshire gentleman, in memory of a cure he had received by virtue of the 
 waters, erected a small stone alcove over the well. Some capacious leaden cisterns, 
 and various articles, apparently Roman, were discovered in digging the foundation. 
 In 178 1, at the time the building of the Crescent commenced, the shape and dimen- 
 sions of the ancient bath were found to be tliirty feet from east to west, and fifteen in 
 a contrars- direction. The spring was situate at the west end, and at the east there 
 was a flood-gate to let out the water ; this bath was about seven yards from the present 
 bath-room. The wall was bmlt with limestone, covered on the outside with a strong 
 cement ; the floor consisted of a composition of lime mixed with coarse sand satura-
 
 BUXTON. 3 
 
 ted with blood ; near one end a cavity was formed in the floor resembling the figure 
 of a boat. 
 
 Though the remote appropriation of the Buxton waters is apparent from the above 
 circumstances, neither the Saxon or Monkish annalists furnisli any testimony, as to 
 their having been in use in the middle ages. It seems probable, however, notwith- 
 standing the wild, bleak, barren region in which it is situate, that they never were 
 entirely deserted ; though we have no certain record of their having obtained a high 
 degree of reputation prior to the sixteenth century, when Dr. Jones, an eminent 
 physician, living at King's Mead, in Derby, gave them celebrity by publisiiing a 
 treatise on the beneficial quahties of the Buxton waters. It appears, when this 
 curious work, entitled, " Buckstone's Bathes Benefite," issued from the press, in 
 1572, the waters were then in high repute, and the place of considerable resort. 
 The first convenient house for the reception of visitants was erected a short time pre- 
 vious to this publication, by the Earl of Shrewsbury, on the site of the building 
 now called The Hall, a part of which belonged to the old fabric. This^ in the ver- 
 bose manner of that age. Dr. Jones described as follows : 
 
 " Joyiiinge to the chiefe springe betwene the river and the bathe, is a very goodly house, foure square, foure 
 stories hye, so well compaete with houses of office beneath, and above, and round about, with a i;reat chambre 
 and other goodly lodgings to the number of thirty : that it is and will be a bewty to bcholde, and very notable 
 for the honorable and worsliipfull that shall ntede to rejiaire thither, as also for other. \ea, the porest shall 
 have lodgings and beds haid by for their uses only. The bathes also so beutiiied with seats round about; de- 
 fended from the ambyent ayre: and chimneys for fyre, to ayre your garmentes in the bathes syde, and other 
 necessaryes most decent. And truely I suppose that if there were for the sickc, a sancluarie during their 
 abode there, for all causes saving sacriledge, treason, murther, burglary, rape, and robbing by the hyeway 
 syde, with also a lycense for the sicke to eat flesh at all tymes, and a Fryday market weekely, and two fayres 
 yeerely, it should be to the posterities, not only co>nniodiouse, but also to the prince, great honour andpayne." 
 It seems that the hall and baths had not long been constructed, and that other improvements were then in con- 
 templation. Dr. Jones speaks of a " phieicion," (probably himself) to be " placed there continually, that 
 might not only counsayle therein, how the better to use God's benefyte, but also adapt theire bodyes making 
 artiticiall bathes, by usinge tliereof as the case shall requyre, with many other profitable dtvyses, having all 
 things for that use or any other, in a redinesse for all the degrees as before it bee loiigc it shall be scene of the 
 noble Earle's own performing." To the gentlemen, Dr. Jones rocommends as exercise, bowling, shooting at 
 butts, and tossing the wind ball. " The ladyes, gentlewomen, wyves, and maydes, niaye, in one of the galle- 
 ries walke ; and if the weatlier bee not agreeable to theire expcetacion they may have in the ende of a bench 
 eleven holes made, into the whiche to trowle pumraetes or bowles of leade. bigge, little, or meane, or also of 
 copper, tynne, woode, eyther vyolent or softe, after theire owne discretion, the pastyme Troule in Madaine is 
 termed. Lykewise men feeble, the same may also practise in anotlier gallery of the newe buyldinges." Buck- 
 stone's Bathes BeneJ'yte, which cureth most grievous diseases. 
 
 This building occasioned the waters to be much more resorted to than heretofore 
 by all ranks of people. Mary, Queen of Scots, being at that time in the custody of 
 the Earl of Shrewsbury, and Elizabeth his Countess, the Earl, by the permission of 
 Queen Elizabeth, reluctantly obtained, visited Buxton four times with his illustrious 
 prisoner.* In one of these visits this heroic and ill-fated princess appUed to Buxton, 
 Cssar's verses upon Filtrk, with some alteration. 
 
 " Buxtona, quas calidnc celebrabere nomine lymphs. 
 Forte mihi, posthac non adeunda, vale." 
 
 Buxton, whose fame thy milk-warm waters tell. 
 Whom I, perhaps, no more shall see, farewell. 
 
 * Her first journey to Buxton appears to have been in the year 1573 : 'Lord Shrewsbury, speaking of his 
 application for permission to repair to Buxton wells for her health, speaks thus, in a letter to Sir Francis Wal- 
 singham. " Whereas she hath put her Majestic in mynde of hur jorney to Buxton well, and you rcfarre to my 
 consyderaeion the eonvcnjcncL- and mcteness thereof, and what nede she hath of that l)ane; and if hur 
 jorney theddar be nedeful and fytte, then howe it may be done convenyently ; and thereof I do sartefy hur 
 Majestic, 1 can saye lyltell of the state of hur boddy : she semes more helthfull now, and all the last yere past, 
 than before: she hath very myche used baninp wt yerbes riowe of late, as she hath done other yers: what 
 nede she hath of Buxton well 1 knowe nott further than I have here wrytt ; my I.. Tresotar knowlh Buxton 
 and thecontray thcraboute; therfor I refarre thefytnes of liur jorney theddar to his L.'s consideracion, and my 
 L. L. and otharsof the councell, as shall pices tile <,)'s Majestic to direct: 1 shall carry and kepe hur safely here 
 and there alyke." Lodge's Illustratian «f British lUstory, vol. ii. p. 109. 
 
 The following instructions from Lord Burleigh to the Earl of Shrewsbury, will show how loth the Queen 
 was to give her perniissitm, and with what caution her first visit (and of course equal caution was observed in 
 all subscipient visits) was conducted. " Her Majesty is pleastd, that if your L. shall think you may «t out 
 perill conduct the Q. of Scotts to ye well of Buekston, accordyng to her most erncst dtsyre your L. shall so 
 doo, usyng such care and respect for hir person, to contynew in your chardg, as hytherto your L. hath honor- 
 ably, happely, and avisably doone: and whau your L. shall detcrmyn to remove wt the sa)d Q. thythar, it
 
 4 BUXTON. 
 
 We find the queen's favourite ministers, Leicester and Burleigh,* among the noble 
 visitors at Buxton. 
 
 Buxton now became a place of considerable resort for all classes, both for health and 
 pleasure, and it was found necessary- to increase the buildings for their accommoda- 
 tion. "W'e find, by the legislative enactments in the 39th of Elizabeth, that the 
 itinerant migrations of the poor were restrained, and they were more closely con- 
 fined to their parishes. In a clause in this Act it is provided, that, the poor, who, 
 from disease or infirmitv, might have occasion to resort to Bath or Buxton, should 
 have relief from their several parishes, and a pass from two magistrates, fixing the 
 period of their return : this pronsion clearly shows the high estimation in which the 
 Buxton waters were held at this period, and evinces a solicitude to guard against va- 
 grancy and begging, that appears to have been prevalent at that time. 
 
 The antiquity of the baths at Buxton we have already mentioned ; and it seems 
 probable that they were not deserted during the Saxon and Norman periods of his- 
 tory. There is, however, no record of their baring obtained any high degree of repu- 
 tation until the sixteenth century. Shortly prerious to the publication of Dr. Jones, 
 wliich we have already mentioned, a convenient house for the reception of risitants 
 
 wer gOf»d yt as little forknolledg abrode as may convenieDtly be pyren ; and nevertheless, yt for ye tyme 
 yt she shall be ther, yt all otherj, being strangers from your L. company, be forbydden to come thyther'du- 
 ryng ye tyme of ye sayd Quene's abode thtre. And this I wryte l)ecause her Maty, was very uuwyll)-ng yt 
 she should go thyther, imagening yt hir desyre was •-ther to be the more sene of stracgers re»ort\ngthyther, or 
 for ye acheviiig of sonie furder enterprise to escape; but on the other part I told hir Slaty, if in very dede hir 
 sicknes wer to be releved thereby, hir Maty, cold not in honor deny hir to ha^ e ye naturall remedy thereof ; 
 and for hir savety, I knew \our L. wold have sufficient care and regard; and so hir Matv commanded tr.e to 
 wTyte to your L. yt \ow might omduct hir thythtr, and also to ha\e good respect to liir." Aug. 10, 1375. 
 L-.'dge's lUustratirms, vol. ii. p. 111. The Queen of Scots V£s at Buxton again in 1576. Ibid. ii. p. 1-19. 
 
 In a letter to Lord Burleigh, without date, which was written after her second visit to Buxton, alluding to 
 some false reports which had l)een made to the Queen, the Earl of ^hreHsbury says, " Touching the doubt- 
 fullnes her Mate should have of me in gyvyng the Scotes Q. lybarte to be sene and saluted ; suerly, my L. 
 the reportars thereof to her Mate hathe done me grete wronge : In dede at her fyrst btinge there, ther hapenyd 
 
 a pore lame crepell to be in the lowar unknowne to all my pe(iell that garded the plase, and whau she 
 
 h'.rd that there was women in the she desiered some pood gentylwoman to gyve her a smoke; whir- 
 
 upon they putt one of ther smokes out of a hole in the walle to her, and so soone as it came to my knolcge, I 
 was bothe offended wt her, and my pepell for takeyng any lettarr unto her ; and after that tyme I toke such 
 ordar as no pore pepell cam unto the house duryng that tyme ; nether at the secorde tyme was ther any 
 strangar at Buxtous (but my one pej>elll that sawe her, for that 1 gave such charge to the contrey about, none 
 should ct>me in to behold her." Ibvl. vol. ii. p. 247. 
 
 In 1580, we find that the E^rl of Shrewsbury went to Buxton a thurd time with his charce. The Earl, in a 
 letter to Lord Burleigh, dated Aug. 9, l.SSO, says, " I cam heddar to Buxtons wt my charge, the .8 of July. 
 She hadde a harde b^ynnenge of herjomey ; for whan she shuld have taken her horse, he started asyde, and 
 therwith she fell and hurte hur backe, wch she still eomplaines off, nottwithstanding she applyes the bathe i;i.s 
 or twyse a daye. I doo strictly obsarve hur Maties commandment, wrytttn to me by yor L. in rcsfreyinnpe 
 all resorte to this plase ; nether dothe she see, norr is scene to any more than to hur owne pepell and suche as 
 I appoynt to atlende : she hathe nott come forthe of the house synce hur cumynge, i:or shall nott before hur 
 dopartynge." Ibid. vol. ii. p. L'o9. The remainder of this letter complains of an abatement of the allowance for 
 the Queen of Scots' provision, by which it seems that, besides the many inconveniences and distresses which 
 attended his odious and burdensome ofSce, he was incurring a considerable pecuniary loss. It appears that the 
 Eirl of Shrewsbury was at Buxton again with his illustrious charge in 15S'.', {Hid. iL p. 271.) and this seems to 
 ha\e been the Queen of Scots' last vfsit to Buxton. 
 
 We find that in 137t3, the Queen si ordered her progress, that she might remain twenty-one da>s within 
 sufRcient distance of Buxton for the Earl of Leicester to have the Buxton waters brought to him daily, the 
 phy-icians having resjilved that wheresoever the Earl of Leicester was, '• he must dryr.ke and use Uuxtois 
 water twenty dayes together." [Lnl^e'f lUusitatiotu , vol. li. p. l.>0.) In I.i77. the Queen writes a letter of 
 thinks to the Earl and Countess of Shrewsbury, for accommodating the Earl of Leicester with lodgings at 
 Buxton, dischaiging his diet, and presenting him with a very rare prtsent. 
 
 • It appears that Lord Burleigh had been at Buxton (probably more than once) before 1.575. (See Lodi;e, voL 
 ii- p. U>9) He was there again in 1575. when Queen Eliiabeth became jealous of him (though hir lH\ourile 
 and trusty minister) as favouring the Queen of Scots, and supposeil that the reason of his going thither was, 
 that he might the more readily hold intelligence with her by means of the Earl and Countess of Shrewsbury, 
 Ibid. vol. ii. p. 151. In 1577, he went a^ain to Buxton with the Queen's permission. 
 
 .\mong the Harleian MSS. in the British Museum, is a letter from Lord Burleigh to the Earl of Sussex, Lord 
 Chamberlain, who, it apiiears, had recently been at Buxton, the letter l)eing dated "From Buxton in your 
 chamber." July 51, 1577. The following is an extract: •' Vour Lordship, I think, des)rclh to heare of my 
 estate, which is this; I cum hither on Sunday last at night, took a small soluti»e on Monday ; began on 
 Tuesday, yesterday I drynk of the water to the quantity of 5 pynts at 6 draught.s; this day I have added two 
 draughts, and I drynk 1 pynts, and to-morrow am determyned to dryck 5 pynts, and mixt with sugar I fynd it 
 potable with plesu're even as whey. I meane not to bath these 8 dayes, but wyll contynew drynking 10 dayes. 
 Here are in company, Mr. Roger Mam ers, for whose company I harlily thank your Lordship, Sir William 
 Fitzwilliam, Thomas Cecill, my Lady Harrington, Mr. Edmuiids, with sondrye others. The wether is dry, 
 but yet cold with wynds." 
 
 By a letter from the Earl of Sussex, dated Aug. 7, 15S2, it appears that the Buxton water was by some drank 
 in still larger quantities than Lord Burleigh used it. " The water," says he, "I have drunke liljtrally, begyn- 
 ning with thre pynts, and so encreasyiig dayly a pynt I come to S pyiits, and from thens otscendyng ilayly a 
 pvnt till I shall aseyne reterne tu 5 pynts, wch wil be un Thuisdyc next, and thcu I make an ende." Lodge'* 
 lUujlraliom, vol. ii. p. 2S2.
 
 BUXTON. 5 
 
 had been erected by the Earl of Shrewsbury, on the site of the building now called 
 the Hall. In 1()70, a new and enlarged ediiice was erected on the same spot, by 
 William, the third Earl of Devonshire. This building has subsequently been greatly 
 improved, and is now one of the principal hotels for the reception of company. 
 Within it are the baths. — The baths, tepid by nature, are six in number : one pub- 
 lic and two private for gentlemen, and the same for ladies. There is also the charity 
 bath. — The new hot baths were constructed upon a jjlan devised by the late Mr. 
 Charles Sylvester, under the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire. These baths are 
 lined with ItaUan marble and porcelain tiles, and the water, naturally in temperament 
 TS"* Fahrenheit, may be raised to any degi'ee of heat, by the action of steam. — The 
 waters of Buxton are considered to be of particular service in cases of bilious cholic; 
 and are said to restore the tone of the stomach after diarrhceas and dysenteries, and 
 to have been found of great use in the cure of diabetes. They are also celebrated for 
 the care of rheumatic complaints ; and in cases of paralysis, they have been preferred 
 to those of Bath. The waters are considerably lower in temperament than these of 
 Bath, but are higher than those of Matlock or Bristol. I'lie almost invariable tem- 
 perature of the water, as it rises in the baths, is 82'^ Fahrenheit, but sometimes, ac- 
 cording to the observations of Dr. Pearson, it has been a quarter of a degree lower. 
 From the analysis of that gentleman, who was one of the earliest and most successful 
 enquirers into the chemical character of these waters, there are 15| grains of sediment 
 in one gallon, viz. carbonate of lime, 11-5 grs. ; sulphate of lime, 2-5 grs. ; muriate 
 of soda, 1"75 grs. 
 
 Medicinally, these waters seem entitled to the appellation of a mild, saline mineral : 
 they are perfectly pellucid, and owing, very probably, to the presence of azotic gas, 
 they are devoid of that vapid taste, so observable in common water, when heated to 
 the same temperature.* 
 
 The able and intelligent surgeon to the Buxton-Bath Charity (Mr. T. J. Page) to 
 whose excellent observations on the Buxton waters we are much indebted, states, 
 that " the more obvious effects of these waters are those of a mild stimulant and 
 tonic ; increasing, in a remarkable degree, the strength and energy of the nervous 
 system. Their salutary effects on tl:e digestive organs are not less conspicuous; 
 restoring tone to the debilitated stomach, and often regulating the action of the intes- 
 tinal canal and urinary organs, after every other means have failed." The same 
 gentleman interdicts the use of them " during the actual existence of any undue de- 
 termination of blood to particular organs ; during the existence of all febrile and in- 
 flammatory action ; and in all visceral obstruction." In the " Observations on 
 Buxton Waters" by Dr. Denman, we find these waters considered as more actively 
 remedial than they have been by other persons esteemed to be. He, however, dis- 
 suades from the use of them in all inflanunatory and feverish complaints, and limits 
 the quantity to be taken, in cases wliere the use of them may be efficacious, to a 
 moderate portion. " In common," he observes, " two glasses, each of the size of the 
 third of a i)int, are as much as ought to be drunk before breakfast, at the distance of 
 forty minutes between each ; and one or two of the same glasses between breakfast 
 and dinner will be quite sufficient." With respect to bathing, he reconnnends for 
 invalids, the time between breakfast and dinner as the most proper ; and directs that 
 the prescribed or usual exercise, should be taken before going into the bath ; the water 
 never to be drunk innnediately previous to bathing. — Mr. Page gives the following 
 five rules, with respect to bathing: 1st. To go into the bath about the middle of the 
 day ; 2nd. To go into the bath when the body is warm ; 3rd. To go in with the feet 
 
 * Dr. Leigh in liis Natural History, says, "the water is hot, siilpliurous, and saline, yet not fetid, hut very 
 jialatablc, because the sulphur is not united with any vitriolic particles, and but very few saline. It tinges not 
 silver, nor is it purgative, by reason its saline )iartitles are <!i>perst(l in sueh small proportions. These waters 
 being drank ereate a good appetite, open obstuietions, and it mixed with the chalybeate waters there, would 
 answer all the intentions of the Bath waters in .Somersetshire, and St. Vincent's near Bristol, whith is so fa- 
 mous for curing diabetes, and bloody urine. This bath is of a temperate heat, and though by reverberation 
 it might be brought to any higlier degree, its own natural heat is more agreeable to the constitution of those 
 parts, and may be used where hotter cannot. It is of good efleet in scorbutic rheumatisms, distempers of the 
 nerve.s and most diseases of the body. Multitudes of people of all agts and degrees fleck hither in the sum- 
 mer, to obtain a cure of their diseases by bathing in them."
 
 b BUXTON. 
 
 first ; 4th. To remain in the vater, at first, but a very short time ; and 5th. To 
 bathe on alternate davs, or to miss every third day. Persons who resort to the Duke's 
 houses have the exclusive privilege of bathing before nine o'clock. 
 The following hues are by the celebrated Cotton : 
 
 " At Buxton is a spring with healing streams. 
 Not the' close housed from the sun's warm beams: 
 So fair a Nymph, and so extremely bright. 
 The teeming earth did never bring to light: 
 She does not rush into the world with noise. 
 Like Neptune's ruder sort of roaring boys. 
 But boils and simmers up, as if the heat 
 That warms her waves, that motion did b^et. 
 But Where's the wonder? for it is well known, 
 Warm and clear fountains in the Peak are none; 
 Tho' the whole province with thera so abound. 
 That every Veoman has them in his ground. 
 Take then the wonder of this famous place, 
 This tepid Fountain a twin Sister has 
 Of the same beauty and complexion. 
 That bubbling six foot offjoin both in one. 
 
 But yet so cold withal, that who will stride. 
 
 When bathing, cross the bath but half so wide. 
 
 Shall in one body which is strange) endure. 
 
 At once an ague and a calenture: 
 
 Yet, for the patients, they're as proper still 
 
 To cool the hot, and to inflame the chill. 
 
 Hither the sick, the lame, and barren come. 
 
 And hence go healthful, sound, and fruitful home. 
 
 Saint Anne the Pilgrim helps, when he can get 
 
 Nought but his pains from yellow Somersrt. 
 
 Nor is our Saint, tho' sweetly humble, shut 
 
 W ithin coarse walls of an ind&ent hut; 
 
 But in the centre of a Palace springs, 
 
 A mansion proud enough for Saxon kings. 
 
 Built by a Lord, and 'oy his son of late 
 
 Made more commodious, and of greater state." 
 
 St. Anne's WeU is a chaste httle building, of the Grecian order, in front of the 
 south-west wing of the Crescent. Here the water is usually taken; it is conveyed 
 by a pipe into a white Italian-marble basin ; the well-women, who are always in at- 
 tendance, serve it out to the visitants. Close by this building is a double pump, from 
 which both cold and waiTn water is obtained ; this was formerly regarded as one of 
 the wonders of the Peak, but later discoveries amongst the Avonders of nature, have, 
 with the great progress of science, lessened the importance of them. 
 
 Centuries ago, the chapel of St. Anne, the tutelary gaint of these hot springs, was 
 hung round with the crutches of those who had come infirm and lame to try the san- 
 ative powers of these waters, and had returned "leaping and rejoicing." A zeal for 
 reform destroyed these reUques, which were supposed to have a tendency to perpetu- 
 ate error and delusions. The following letter, addressed to lord Cromwell, in the 
 reign of Henry \"III. is an interesting and curious document as connected with the 
 liistory of Buxton, and illustrative of the complacent subserviency of some of the 
 principal families in that reign. 
 
 "Right Honourable and my inespecial Good Lord. 
 
 " According to my bounden duty, and the tenor of your Lordship's letters lately to me directed, I have sent 
 your Lordship by this bearer, my brother Francis Basset, the images of Saint Anne of Buckston, and Saint 
 Andrew of Burton-upon-Trent, which images I did take from the places where they did stand, and brought 
 them to my house within forty-eight hours after the contemplation of your said Lordship's letters, in as sober 
 a manner as my little and rude will would serve me. And for that there should be no more idolatry and su- 
 perstition there used, I did not only deface the tabernacles and places where they did stand, but also did take 
 away crutches, shirts, and shifts, with wax offered, being things that allure and entice the ignorant to the said 
 offering; also giving the kee(>ers of Ixjth places onlers that no more offerings should be made in those places 
 till the King's pleasure and your Lordship's be further known in that behalf. 
 
 " My Lord, I have locked up and sealed the baths and wells of Buckston, that nrme shall enter to wa-sh there 
 till your Lordship's pleasure be further known; whereof I beseech your good Lordship that I may be ascer- 
 tained again at your pleasure, and I shall not fail to execute your Lordship's comniaiidments to the utmost of 
 my little wit and power. And, my Lord, as touching the opinion of the people and the fond trust they did put 
 in those images, and the vanity of the things, this Ix-arer can tell your Lordship better at large than I can 
 write, for he was with me at the doing of all this, and in all places, as knowcth good Jesus, whom ever have 
 your Lordship in his precious keeping. 
 
 '* Written at Langley with the rinle and simple hand of your assured and faithful orator, and as one and ever 
 at your commandment, next unto the King's, to the uttermost of bis little power. 
 
 'WILllAM BASSET, KxiCHT. 
 
 To Lord Cromwell." 
 
 Buildings. The Crescent is a magnificent pile of building, erected about half a 
 century ago, by the order of the Duke of Devonshire, from the design, and under 
 the superintendence of John Carr, esq. an eminent provincial architect. The build- 
 ing is situate in a valley on the banks of the river Wye, and cannot be seen to advan- 
 tage until you are close upon it ; its erection was dictated by a spirit of munificence, 
 and it is executed in a style of grandeur as if desigjied for the residence of a prince. 
 It consists of three stories; the lowest one is a rusticated arcade, forming a beautiful
 
 BUXTON. 7 
 
 promenade, which extends the whole length of the front, and is 7 feet wide within 
 the pillars, and 11 feet high. An elegant balustrade skirts the front and ends of the 
 fabric: the span of which is 31(ji| feet. The divisions between the windows over 
 the piers of the arcade, are formed of fluted Doric pilasters, that support the archi- 
 trave and cornice, the tryglyphs of the former, and the rich planceer of the latter 
 have a striking effect. The termination above the cornice is formed by another 
 balustrade, that extends the length of the building, in the centre of which are the 
 Devonshire Arms, neatly carved in wood. In the space between the windows runs 
 an enriched string-course. The span of the Crescent is 200 feet, and each wing 
 measures 58 feet 3 inches. The floor of the arcade is raised considerably higher than 
 the gravelled area, between which, communications are formed by several flights of 
 steps. Each wing of the Crescent contains an hotel ; that to the east being the Great 
 Hotel, that to the west the St. Anne's Hotel ; in the centre is the Centre Hotel, and 
 one private lodging-house (which is the St. Anne's Hotel lodging-house) the lower 
 front rooms of which are converted into shops. The assembly-room forms part of 
 the Great Hotel ; it is an elegant and well-proportioned apartment, with a. rich pro- 
 jecting cornice, and various appropriate and beautiful ornaments ; the length of this 
 room is 75^ feet, the width 30 feet, and the height 30 feet. The number of -win- 
 dows in the whole Crescent is 378. It is built with gritstone obtained near the spot, 
 and faced with fine freestone, procured from a quarry about two miles distant. 
 
 The stables at the back of the Crescent, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire's 
 Hotels, are supposed to be the handsomest in Europe, these constitute a fine range 
 of buildings ; their style of architecture happily corresponds with the grandeur of 
 that noble edifice. They are situate on a gently rising ground, forming on the out- 
 side an irregular polygon, but having a circular area within, sixty yards in diameter ; 
 round this is a covered gallery, or ride, where the company take exercise on horse- 
 back when the weather renders shelter necessary ; the ride, inside the circus, is 160 
 yards round ; on one side of the stables is a spacious repository for carriages. These 
 buildings, like the Crescent, were constructed at the charge of the Duke of Devon- 
 shire, who is said to have expended the sum of i.'120,000. in completing the whole. 
 
 The Hall Bank is a range of buildings on the hill opposite the Hall, and from their 
 elevation may be esteemed the most pleasant in Buxton. 
 
 The Square is a plain substantial building, having an arcade which communicates 
 with that of the Crescent, thus making a covered Avalk of considerable extent. 
 
 The new church is an elegant structure of freestone, of the Tuscan order, erected 
 at the expense of the Duke of Devonshire, on a pleasant and convenient site, south- 
 west of the Crescent. The east front has large columns, supporting a massive pedi- 
 ment, in the execution of which, very large blocks of stone have been used ; the 
 masonry is excellent, and the building has altogether an air of substantial grandeur ; 
 the interior is elegantly finished, and in a style that is extremely chaste. All the 
 angles of the edifice are rusticated with large blocks of stone. The west end is orna- 
 mented with an elegant tower, and the whole building is very properly surrounded by 
 a broad pavement that is brought close up to the wall. The church, dedicated to St. 
 John, stands in the township of Fairfield, in the parish of Hope. It was opened for 
 divine service on the 9th of August, 1812. By an Act of Parliament, 51 Geo. III. 
 the patronage of this chapel, and that of Baslow, was given to the Duke of Devon- 
 shire; and in lieu of this patronage, lands, of the value of £95. per annum, and the 
 patronage of the vicarage of Tutbury, in Staffordshire, are given to the vicar of Bake- 
 well. In 1728, Mr. John Needham gave £200. in aid of Queen Anne's bounty. 
 The living, a peculiar, in the diocess of Lichfield and Coventry, valued in the king's 
 books at £5. has been augmented by £100. subscribed, royal bounty £100. and by a 
 parliamentary grant of £800. The Rev. George Trevor Spencer is the incumbent. 
 
 The old church at Buxton, a very mean building, is now converted into a school- 
 room. It formerly contained a statue of St Anne, to whom, the superstition of former 
 times attributed the miraculous power of performing all the cures that the medicinal 
 qualities of the water had effected. This object of superstitious veneration was de- 
 stroyed at the Reformation : since which time, the waters have been found to possess
 
 8 BUXTON. 
 
 all those healing powers that were attributed to the Saint. After the Reformation, 
 the church was dedicated to St. John ; the ostensible object of tliis change of the 
 patron saint from St. Anne to St. John, was for the puqiose of remo^ang the super- 
 stition that clouded the minds of the lower classes of the community. I'he removal 
 of the cause was certainly calculated to effect that intention, yet the change did not 
 entirely eradicate the remembrance of St. Anne: so prone was human nature to su- 
 perstition, that it still clung to its object, and the name of St. Anne was kept appended 
 to the well. Although the name is continued, the superstition has long since vanished 
 away. 
 
 Monumenlal Tablets in Burton old Church, ichich is now converted into a school room. 
 
 To the memory of the Hon. Robert Hamilton Linde William Cheetham, of Buxton, obt. IGth February, 
 
 say, who died ord November, 1801, aged 09 years. 1806, aged 67; Martha, his wife, I'.'th May, l.S()2, aged 
 
 William Wallace, of Liveqiool, merchant, who died fiO; and three of their children, William, Maria, and 
 
 here November L', 17SS. in the 61th year of his age. Harriet; William obt. 22nd June, 1780, aged 8; 
 
 His life was useful and honourable, and his death Maria, 5rd .January, 1801, aged 19; and Harriet, Hth 
 
 deeply lamented. February, ISOl, aged 22. 
 
 John Leedham, of Buxton, obt. ."0th December, James Hall, of Buxton, obt. 21st May, 1S08, aged 
 
 1797i aged 45. He was a sincere friend and good com- .03; Mary Hal], his wife, obt. 15th January, 1815, 
 
 paoion. aged 60. 
 
 Charities. 
 
 BUXTON SCHOOL. — On a brass plate in Buxton chapel there is the following 
 inscription, bearing date in leTi. 
 
 Benefactors to the town of Buxton for the uses under expressed. 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 The Riaht Hon. William, Earl of Devonshire 50 
 
 Mr. Richard Holland, of the city of Bristol 100 
 
 Mr. Henry Wilshaw, £100. received only 80 
 
 Mr. Arthur Slack £40. Richard Shallcross, esq. £5 45 
 
 Mr. John Harrison £10. Mr. John Wilshaw £5 15 
 
 Mr. Ralph Needham £5. Mr. Edward Lomas £1 6 
 
 Thoseof the cbapelry of Buxton gave 4 
 
 £.■500 
 
 With which sum of £'300. the donors above named have purchased £15. per an- 
 num in fee, clear of all charges, viz. £12. for the schoolmaster of the said town teach- 
 ing Latin, English, and writing; £2. lO.v. for repairing the liighways from Buxton 
 Butts, &c. and lOs. to be spent by the trustees. 
 
 The property of the charity consists of 35 a. 1 r. 4 p. of land, situate at Buxton 
 and Hartington, now let for £64. 1.5. 6d. and interest of £712. lis. Sd. Navy 5 per 
 cent, stock, now £74-8. is, 3d. New 4 per cents, making the whole income of the 
 charity £94. per annum. 
 
 The Rev. George Mounsey was appointed master in 1817, and, with the assistance 
 of an usher, who is nominated and paid by himself, instructs, on the National System, 
 in reading, writing, and arithmetic, all the poor children (usually about 120) of the 
 chapelry of Buxton, free. 
 
 Rev. Francis Gisborne left, by his will, in 1818, in the funds, £5. 10*. per annum, 
 for clothing, to be distributed to the poor of the chapelry. 
 
 Buxton Bath C/iaritij. The origin of this charity we are not enabled to trace. In 
 the reign of Elizabeth, a similar institution seems to have had the support of the 
 wealthy who visited the place at that period. It appears from Dr. Jones, "Buck- 
 stone's Bathes Benefite," already quoted, that, in 1572, there was a fixed rate to be 
 paid by all persons resorting to the waters, towards a fund, one-half of which was for 
 the physician, the other for the benefit of })Oor bathers. " Alway, provided the day of 
 your coming thither be noted before you enter into the bathes, and the day of your 
 uepartui-e, with the country of your habitation, condition, or calling, with the infirmi- 
 tyes or cause you came for, in the regyster booke, kept of the warden of the bathe, or 
 the physician, that there shall be appointed, and the benefite you receyved, paying
 
 BUXTON. 9 
 
 fourpence for the recording, and every yeoman besides twelve pence, every gentle- 
 man, 3.V. ; every esquier, 3^. id. ; every knight, G.5. 8^/. ; every lord and baron, lOs. ; 
 every viscount, 13*. 4^. ; every erle, 20^. ; every marques, 30*. ; every duke, i'3. 10*. ; 
 every archbishop, £5. ; every bishop, 405. ; every judge, 20,s. ; every doctour anrl 
 sergeant at lawe, lO.v. ; every chauncellor and utter-barrister, G.i. Hd. ; every arch- 
 deacon, prebendary, and canon 5ii. ; every minister, 12t/. ; every ducches, 40a-. ; every 
 marquesses, 20i-. ; every countes, 13.v. 4-d. ; every baron es, 10*. ; every lady, 6.v. Hd. ; 
 every gentlewoman, 2s. ; and all for the treasure of the bathe, to the use of the poore, 
 that only for help do come thither, the one halfe ; the other to the physician, for his 
 residence." 
 
 The annual reports of this valuable and well-conducted charity, now lying before 
 us, for three successive years, is a convincing proof of the extent and utility of this 
 benevolent and unostentatious institution ; established for the relief of the poor, re- 
 sorting to Buxton for the benefit of the bath waters. This charity is principally sup- 
 ported by a trifling contribution from the visitors ; whenever any new comers arrive, 
 either at the inns or the principal lodging houses, immediately after dinner, a sub- 
 scription-book is introduced, in which those who are charitably disposed insert their 
 names, and pay 1.?. each towards the rehef of those who suffer the double affliction of 
 pain and poverty. 
 
 This little donation, as Mr. Rhodes justly observes, " blesseth him that takes, and 
 those who give ; it purchases the gratifying privilege of recommending a person to 
 the charity." On his or her admission, a letter (post jjaid) to the Secretary of the 
 charity, stating the nature of the complaint, age, character, and circumstances of the 
 patient, receives a reply from the Secretary. Other patients are admitted on bring- 
 ing a certificate from the minister of their parish and medical attendant, vouching 
 for their being proper objects of charity. The sums received from the one shilling 
 subscription, from private donations, and from the handsome collections maile after 
 two sermons preached for the benefit of the establishment during the season, are 
 considerable. 
 
 By the provision of this valuable institution every invalid^ duly recommended, has 
 the advantage of medical advice, medicine, and the use of a bath, which is exclusive- 
 ly appropriated to this purpose ; together with an allowance of 5s. weekly for three 
 weeks, if standing in need of such pecuniary aid. A charity, conducted on such 
 liberal principles, and furnished with such abundant evidence of its utihty, possesses 
 strong claims to the support of the wealthy part of the public. 
 
 Extract from the Annual Reports of Receipts and Expenditure of the Chariii/. 
 
 RECEIPTS AND DISBURSEMENTS, 
 Fro7n the ilk of September, 1826, to the Srd of September, 1827. 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 £. *. d. 
 Balance due from the Treasurer on the 4th 
 
 of September, IS-JS 234 5 11 
 
 Collected at the church 79 13 2 
 
 A fine for an assault 3 
 
 Privatedonations to theSrd of Sept. 1827. 80 12 
 
 General subscriptions to ditto 202 2 
 
 One year's interest on Mrs. Downs's legacy, 
 
 to Midsummer, 1.S27 S 
 
 The late Miss Bower's legacy 4 10 
 
 DISBURSEMENTS. 
 
 Expended in allowance to i.'A patients 
 
 Printing, advertisements, &c 
 
 Medicines 
 
 Incidental expenses 
 
 Balance ».. 
 
 £. *. d. 
 ... 313 
 ... 16 16 3 
 ... 5S 3 
 ... 24 19 8 
 ... 216 4 2 
 
 It appears that eight hundred and fifteen patients have been admitted within the 
 above-mentioned period, of which were cured or much relieved, 704 ; relieved, 40 ; 
 no better, 13; remain on the books, 58 ; total, 814. Three hundred and sixty-one 
 additional patients received relief in medicine and the baths, but no pecuniary as- 
 sistance.
 
 10 
 
 BUXTON. 
 
 RECEIPTS AND DISBUKSEMENTS, 
 From the ith of September, 182", to the 1st of September, 1828. 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 ' £. 3. d. 
 Balance due from tlie Treasurer on the 4th 
 
 of Stptcinber, 18J7 21G 4 2 
 
 Collected at the Church 67 5 2 
 
 Two fines 5 5 
 
 Private donations to the 1st of Sept. 1828. 102 18 6 
 
 General Subscriptions to ditto 196 12 6 
 
 Subscription for life 10 
 
 One year's interest on Mrs. Downs's legacy, 
 
 to Midsummer, 1823 3 10 
 
 £(i01 15 1 
 
 DISBURSEMENTS. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Expended in allowance to 414 patients 322 10 
 
 Printing, advertisements, &c ,• 2S! 7 2 
 
 Medicines 37 16 
 
 Incidental expenses 20 15 6 
 
 Balance 198 6 8 
 
 £601 15 4 
 
 It appears that eight hundred and eight patients have been admitted within the 
 above-mentioned period, of which were cured or much relieved, 686 ; reheved, 45 ; 
 no better, 13 ; remain on the books, 64; total, 808. Three hundred and ninety-four 
 additional patients received relief in medicine and the baths, but no pecuniary as- 
 sistance. 
 
 Scenen/. — Within the last half century, the neighbourhood of Buxton has been 
 much improved by cultivation and plantations, jutUciously arranged on the adjacent 
 hills, by the command of the Dukes of Devonshire. The present noble Duke, fol- 
 lowing the example of his illustrious father, is continually adtling to the riiles, walks 
 and plantations in the vicinity. The serpentine walk commences opposite the square, 
 winding beautifully on each side of the ^V^ye. The walks are well laid out, the cas- 
 cades and bridges have a good effect, and the trees, which are shooting into beauty, 
 render it a delightful spot. The more recent improvements on St. Anne's CliflPe were 
 designed by Sir JefFery 'Wyatville, and render that hill a highly ornamental pleasure 
 ground, harmonizing with the classic architecture of Carr. A series of terrace walks, 
 one above another, sweep in a circular direction, to agree with the convex form of 
 the hill, and communicate with each other by flights of steps at each end and in the 
 centre of the different walks. Numerous seats are placed on the walks for the accom- 
 modation of the company, and beautiful vases ornament the whole. If the exquisite 
 taste and munificence of the present owner of Buxton is continued, this fashionable 
 place A\dll become, in a few years, equally celebrated for its sylvan scenery, as it is for 
 the salubrity of its air and the efficacy of its waters. Half a century ago, Buxton 
 was described as being situate amidst the most dreary and cheerless scenery in the 
 Peak of Derbyshire ; and the country as exhibiting one wide extent of hopeless 
 sterility. To the admirers of rock scenery, the neighbourhood of Buxton affords 
 ample scope for the imitative powers of the most enthusiastic artist; for the effusions 
 of the most brilliant poetic fancy ; and for gratification to all who admire the beauties 
 of nature in her wildest garb. To the mineralogist it offers many a rare and beautiful 
 fossil ; but to the botanist it is a source of incalculable delight : for there is scarcely a 
 plant indigenous in Britain which may not be found on the mountains or in the val- 
 leys. To the angler, the pellucid waters of the Wye and the Dove furnish the beau- 
 tiful finny tribe of trout and grayling, so celebrated by Cotton and AValton. To the 
 sportsman, during the shooting season, the extensive moors belonging to the Duke of 
 Devonshire and the Earl of Derby, abounding with gi-ouse, partridges, snipes, dotterell, 
 plover. Sec. have their attraction. 
 
 The Races at Buxton, we believe, are permanently fixed for the Wednesday and 
 Thursday subsequent to the first Sunday after Trinity. 
 
 A subscrijjtion pack of harriers are kept in the neighbourhood, and the chase in 
 this mountainous district forms a striking and pleasing contrast to those gentlemen 
 who have followed tliis diversion in low countries. Thus it will appear that Buxton
 
 BUXTON. 
 
 11 
 
 is a place of resort for pleasure as well as for health. The amusements of Buxton 
 generally commence in June and end in October. Besides those already noticeii, Ave 
 may add biUiards, plays, assemblies, and the card-room. The balls are held in the 
 Assembly-room, at the great Hotel, and are well attended. The dress balls are on 
 Wednesday nights ; the undress on ^Mondays and Fridays. An elegant card-room, 
 adjoining the assembly-room, is open every night. The subscription to the bail and 
 card-rooms is one guinea: but if a family subscribe, the charge is one guinea each 
 for the two first, and half a guinea each for the rest of the family. The subscription 
 to the news-room for the season is six shillings. 
 
 An excellent band of musicians attend regularly every season under Mr. Irving 
 the master, who are clothed and paid by the Duke of Devonshire. 
 
 On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, a small theatre is opened, neatly fitted 
 up, and frequented by a respectable company of comedians. 
 
 21ie Cavern, or Pvolt's Hole. The natural curiosities in this neighbourhood are 
 numerous, and necessarily engage the attention of curious visitants. The Cavern, or 
 Poole's Hole, is situate about a mile to the west of Buxton. 
 
 ]\Ir. Cotton, in liis Poem, gives the following description of Poole's Hole : 
 
 •• At an high mountain's foot, whose lofty crest 
 
 O'erlooks the marshy prospect of the west, 
 
 I'onW s-Uvlc appears; so small an aperture. 
 
 That summer weeds do almost it obscure : 
 
 But such an one there is, so strait, that it 
 
 For F^adgers, Wolves, and Foxes, seems more fit. 
 
 Than men who venture in, tho' 't don't appear 
 
 That they can find out any business there; 
 
 But having fifteen paces crept or more, 
 
 Thro' pointed stones and dirt, upon all four. 
 
 The RJoomy grotto lets men U|)right rise 
 
 Altho' they be six times Goliah's size. 
 
 There looking upward, your astoiiish'd sight 
 
 Beholds the ,<<lory of the spaikhng lit;ht. 
 
 Th' enamelltd roof darts round about the place 
 
 Which from the candle has deriv'd its rays. 
 
 But lure a roaring torrent bills you stand, 
 
 And elimb a rock which lies on your right hand; 
 
 Upon whose precipice while you do crawl. 
 
 If you should slip you're ruin'd by the fall. 
 
 But in this path, while you on trenibhng go. 
 
 Your Guides, t' aveit your trembling fears, do show 
 
 In the uneven rock, the uncouth shapes 
 
 Of Men and Lions, Horses, Dogs and Apes: 
 
 But each resembling so the faney'd frame. 
 
 They any one or all may bear the name. 
 
 Farther, just in your way, a stone apj)cars. 
 
 Which the resemblances of haycocks bears ; 
 
 These the wise Natives call the fonts. Ijut there. 
 
 Descending from the roof, doth > et appear 
 
 A bright transparent cloud, which from above. 
 
 By those false lights, does downwards seem to move. 
 
 And this, forsooth, the liucon Flitch they call. 
 
 Not that it does resemble it at all ; 
 
 For it is round, not flut. But I suppose. 
 
 Because it hangs in ih' roof, like one of those. 
 
 And shines like salt, Peak bacon eaters came 
 
 At first to call it by that greasy name. 
 
 'I'he next thing yon arrive at is a stone, 
 
 In truth a very rare and pretty one, 
 
 WitJi a turn'd foot, and moulding'd pedestal. 
 
 Spherical body, chrystal spire and bail: 
 
 This very aptly tliey Foul's Lantln-rn name. 
 
 Being like those in Admirals poops that llamc. 
 
 But moving forward o'er the glassy shore, 
 
 \o\x hear the torrent now so loud to roar. 
 
 As if some noisy cataract were near. 
 
 Or the raging sea had got some channel there : 
 
 But when you come to 't, the rill is not so wide 
 
 But that a modest maid may over stride: 
 
 The falling low with a precipitous wav«, 
 
 Causes thks dreadful echo in the cave. 
 
 Beyond this rill, and just before your eyes, 
 
 Vou see a great transparent pillar rise. 
 
 Of the saiiic shining matter with the rest. 
 
 But such an one as Nature does contest, 
 
 'J'ho' working ui the dark, in this brave piece, 
 
 V\ ith all the obelisks of ancient Greece ; 
 
 For all the art the chisel could apply, 
 
 Ne'er wrought such curious folds of drapery. 
 
 Of this the figure is, as men should crowd 
 
 A vast Colossus in a marble shroud : 
 
 And yet the plaits so soft and flowing are. 
 
 As finest folds from finest looms they were. 
 
 The Queen of Scots, thro' curiosity. 
 
 Took so mucli pains this horrid cave to see. 
 
 That she came up to this now famous stone. 
 
 And naming it, declared it her own. 
 
 Which ever since, so gloriou.-ly installed. 
 
 Has been the t^uetn of Scots her I'lllar called. 
 
 Over the brook you're now obliged to stride. 
 
 And turn on th' left hand by this l^illar's side: 
 
 But from this place the way does rise so steep. 
 
 Craggy and vvet, you'd hardly footnig keep. 
 
 Having gone sev'n score paces up, or more. 
 
 On the right hand you lind a idnd of floor : 
 
 From whence, while down an hole you downwards 
 
 look. 
 And see a candle, the Guides left at the brook; 
 You'll fancy, from that dreadful precipice, 
 A sparkle ascending from the black al)jss. 
 From hence on th' rock you slide, till come below. 
 Your Guides will then another candle show. 
 Left ill the hole above, whose distant light 
 Seems a star, peeping thro' a sullen night: 
 And being now coiuuieted almost back. 
 Before you'll be permitted leave to take 
 Of this infernal mansion, you must see 
 W licre Master Pool and his bold \'conianry 
 Took up their dark apartrne.ils; for they here 
 Do show his Hall, Parlour, anil Bed Chamber, 
 \\ itlidrawing-ioom ami Closet, and with Uicse 
 His Kitchen, and his other Offices, 
 And all contriv'd to justify a h'ahle 
 Which no man will believe, but th' siUy rabble. 
 And now if yi.u'U thro' th' narrow passage strain. 
 Then you shall see the chearful day again." 
 
 Poole's Hole is a cavern in the mass of limestone that ranges westward of Buxton. 
 It is a remarkable cave, esteemed the sixth wonder of tire Peak. An ancient tradi- 
 tion declares it to have derived its name from an outlaw, named Poole, who made it 
 his residence. The entrance, at the foot of a high mountain called Coitmoss, is as
 
 12 BUXTON. 
 
 mean and contracted, as that of the Peak cavern is awful and magnificent. Through 
 a crevice, very low and confined, the curious \isitant can proceed only in a stooping 
 postiu-e, to a lofty and spacious chamber, " from the roof and sides of which depend a 
 quantity of stactuUte, produced by droppings of water laden with calcareous matter. 
 Part of this substance adlieres to the roof, and forms gradually masses called stalac- 
 tites, or (locally) vnter-icicles : another portion drops with the water to the ground, 
 and attaching itself to the floor, is there deposited, and becomes the stahfpnite, a lumpy 
 mass of the same matter." These bodies are daily increasing, and it is curious to 
 observe their diversity of figure, which by the aid of fancy may be thought closely to 
 resemble the works of nature or of art. " In one place," says Mr. Rhodes, in his 
 Peak Scenery, " we were shown a petrified turtle ; in another, ^jiitch of bacon ; in 
 a third, old Poole's saddle ; and still further on there are other calcareous incrustationsj 
 called wool packs, a chair, a. fnit, a pillion, and the pillar of JSIary Queen of Scots. 
 That these names have been dealt out and appropriated in a very arbitrary manner, 
 may easily be imagined. The whale, or ouzel, which Hamlet points out among the 
 clouds to poor Polonius, was not more unhke in form and feature than these uncouth 
 resemblances are to the objects they are said to represent." The mass called the 
 Flitch of Bacon occurs about the middle of the cavern, which there contracts its di- 
 mensions for a short space, and then spreads out both in height and width as far as the 
 astonishing mass of stalactite, denominated the Queen of Scots' pillar, from a tratU- 
 tion that the unfortunate JIan/ visited this cavern while she resided at Buxton, and 
 penetrated thus far into its recesses. The remaining portion of this subterranean 
 cavity contains few objects to compensate the labour and danger of exploring it. Mr. 
 H. ]\Ioore was told by his guide, an aged woman, that no persons had been to the ter- 
 mination of the cave for many years. He therefore proceeded without the protection 
 of his reverend directress, or due regard to her Cumaean admonitions. From the 
 pillar he descended over disjointed rocks, and scrambled over the disordered masses of 
 sh'ppery crags. His intrepidity was rewarded by the discovery of the names of several 
 who had been there before him. Thus, having satisfied his curiosity, he began to 
 return. — 
 
 " Sed revocare gradum, suptrasque evadere ad auras. 
 Hoc upus, hie labor est." 
 
 But to recall your footsteps and regain 
 The upi>er air — here lye your toil and pain. 
 
 He found no passage in the direction which he expected would conduct him back : he 
 tried another part, but without success : he then made a third etTort, but still no road 
 could he find : in several other attempts he was equally unsuccessful, and in the midst 
 of these difliculties a drop of water from the roof struck the flame of his caiulle, and 
 it nearly expired. Fortunately, his attendant Sybil was not altogether unmindful of 
 his dangerous situation, when one false step amid the rude masses of broken rocks 
 might have been fatal. She at once raised both her voice and her candle : the light 
 flashed through the small opening by which he had entered, and passing, by her di- 
 rections, through a narrow fissure, called the Ei/e of St. Anthony's Needle, he effected 
 his retuin in safety. 
 
 The path by which visitors are conducted back to the entrance of the cavern, passes 
 underneath a considerable portion of that by which they are at first conducted. In 
 this passage there is a fine spring of water. The stalactites are here numerous, and 
 apjiellations have been bestowed upon them, which if they ever had any appropriate 
 conformity with their shapes, cannot long retain that conformity, since those shapes 
 must be continually varying in form from the depositions left by the water, which 
 constantly percolates through the roof and sides of the rock. The character of this 
 cavern is very different from that of the Peak at C'asdeton. Its dimensions are vari- 
 ously stated; Pilkington says, the whole length is 560 yards; 460 to the Queen of 
 Scots' Pillar, and 100 beyond it. Mr. Moore gives 2007 feet as the extent from the 
 entrance to the extremity ; while the writer in the Beauties of England and Wales, 
 asserts that the extent of the cavern does not exceed 300 yards.
 
 BUXTON. 
 
 13 
 
 Elden Hole. — A perpendicular chasm in the fourth lime-stone stratum, connected 
 below wit}) extensive lateral cavities, in the Peak Forest township, is the third re- 
 puted wonder of the Peak. It is situate on the side of a hill about three miles from 
 Castleton, on the road from Buxton, and at about 9 miles from the latter, and is 
 called Eldcn Hole. So attached to the wonderful arc many persons, who travel, not 
 so much to admire and investigate natural objects, as to indulge their love of astonish- 
 ment, that even in the nineteenth century there are some who very leluctantly relin- 
 quish their belief in the very extravagant narratives that have been related concern- 
 ing this cavern. The unfathomable depth of caves, seas, and fens, has always been a 
 favourite topic with the credulous and the ignorant : and this innnense fissure was 
 long thought to be bottomless. The philosopher Hobbes says, of an enormous piece 
 of rock which he and his companions rolled to the mouth of the cavern, and then 
 thrust it into the aperture, 
 
 " Ultima turn subiens, infandaque Tartara, centrum 
 Transit." 
 
 Thf lowest deep descending, it broke through 
 Hell and the centre. 
 
 During the reign of Elizabeth, a poor man was hired by tlie famous Dudley, Earl 
 of Leicester, to suffer himself to be let down by a rojie into this cavern, and the event 
 forms an amusing episode in Hobbes' Latin Poem, De Mirahililnis I'lcci, which we 
 shall give in the words of a translation maile by a contemporary of the author. 
 
 " 'Tis said great Dudley to this cave came down. 
 
 In great Eliza's reign, a peer well known. 
 
 He a poor peasant for a petty i>riee 
 
 With rope around his middle does entice. 
 
 And pole in hand, like her, Sarissa hight. 
 
 And basket full of stones down to be let 
 
 And pendulous to hang i' th' midst o' th' cave; 
 
 Thenee casting stones, intelligence to have, 
 
 By list'ning, of the depth of this vast hole. 
 
 The trembling wretch descending, with his pole 
 
 Puts back the rocks, that else might on him rowl. ) 
 
 By their rebounds, easts up a space immense, 
 
 Where every stroke does death to him dispense; 
 
 Fearing the thread, on which his life depends. 
 
 Some rogue might cut ere fate should givecommands. 
 
 Then, when Iwo Immlred ells he had below 
 
 r th' earth been merged far as the rope would go. 
 
 I 
 
 And long hung up by it within the cave. 
 To th' Earl — who now impatient was to have 
 His answer — he's drawn up; but, whether fear 
 Immoderate distracted him, or 'twere 
 l''rom the swift motion as the rope might wreathe. 
 Or spfch-iims from his dread, or hell beneath. 
 Frighted the wretch, or the soul's citadel 
 Were stormed or taken by the imps of hell, 
 For certain 'twas he rav'd; — this his wild eyes. 
 His paleness, trembling, all things verifies. 
 While venting something none could understand, 
 Kiithusiastic hints iie'er to be scann'd. 
 He eeas'd, and died, after eight days were g(me. 
 But th' Earl informed, how far the cave went down, 
 Treudjiingly from it hastes — not wilhng now. 
 Nor yet this way, down to the shades to go." 
 
 But these two hundred ells are little to the calcidation of the facetious poet, 
 Charles Cotton, who gives the foUoAving account of the cavern, and of his unsuc- 
 cessful attempt to fathom this fearful pit. 
 
 " Near Tideswell doth another Wonder lie. 
 
 Worthy the greatest curiosity, 
 
 Call'd Eld f?i- Holt; but such a dreadful place. 
 
 As raiselh blushing in my Muse's face. 
 
 Betwixt a verdant mountain's falling flanks. 
 
 And within bounds of easy swelling banks. 
 
 That hem the Wonder in on either side: 
 
 A formidable scissure gajies so wide ; 
 
 Steep, black, and full of Horror, that none dare 
 
 Look down into the Chasm but with fear. 
 
 This yawning mouth is thirty paces long. 
 
 Scarce half so wide, and lined thro' with strong 
 
 And upright walls of very solid stone ; 
 
 A gulf, wide, stte|i, black, and a dreadful one. 
 
 Critical passengers usually sound 
 
 How deep this horrid pit goes under ground. 
 
 By tumbling down stones, sought throughout the field. 
 
 As great as the oilicious Boors can wield. 
 
 U hen one's turn'd off, it, as it parts the air, 
 
 A kind of sighing makes, as if it were 
 
 Capable of the trembling passion Fear, 
 
 Till the first hit strikes the astonish'd ear 
 
 Like thunder, underground ; thence it invades, 
 
 W ith louder thunders, those Tariatian shades, 
 
 \\ hieh groim f(]rth horror at each pond'rous stroke, 
 
 Th' unnatural issue gives the I'artiit rock; 
 
 Whilst, as it strikes, the sound by turns we note. 
 When nearer, flat; sharper, when ii ore remote. 
 As the hard walls on which it strikes are found. 
 Fit to reverberate the bellowing sound. 
 When, after falling long, it seems to hiss. 
 Like the (dd Serpent in the dark Abyss; 
 And tlieie ends our intelligence. How far 
 It travels further, no man can declare: 
 Tho' once a mercenary fool ('tis said) expos'd 
 His life for gold, to find what lies enclos'd 
 In this obscure vacuity, and tell 
 Of stranger sights, than Thesius saw in Hell. 
 But the poor wretch paid for his thirst of gain, 
 For being cran'd up with a distenipev'd brain, 
 A faltering tongue, and a wild staring look. 
 He liv'd ei}4ht days, and then the world forsook. 
 How deei) this gulf docs travel un<ler ground, 
 Tho' there have been attempts, was never found: 
 But 1 myself, with half tlie I'eake surrounded, 
 Eight hundred, four score and four yards have 
 
 sounded; 
 And tho' of these fourscore return'd back wet. 
 The plummet drew, and found no bottom yet; 
 Tho' when I went to make a new essay, 
 I could nut get the lead di;wu half the way."
 
 14 BUXTOX. 
 
 This statement of Cotton's, while it proves his anxiety to be accurate, leaves the 
 matter in uncertainty ; but the lover of wonder seizes upon the more astonishing por- 
 tion of tliis experiment, and Dr. Cliarles Leigh, who wrote in ] 700, says, " Elden 
 Hole is a terrible chasm, it wcs plummed eight huncked fathom by the ingenious 
 Charles Cotton, esq. but no bottom was found;" — thus nearly doubling the first 
 part of the essay, by converting Cotton's i/ards into fathoms, and omitting any men- 
 tion of the fact, that on the second attempt. Cotton himself acknowledges that he 
 ''could not get the lead down half the way." It is thus that an attachment to the 
 miraculous misleads mankind, not only in physics, but frequently in much more im- 
 portant concerns. Correctness in geological investigations is not to be expected from 
 the followers of the muses, but there is something ingenuous as well as ingenious in 
 Cotton's lines that entitle them to respect, and it is not impossible but that, by the 
 divergency of the plummet from its perpendicular descent, as well as from tlie proba- 
 ble subsequent falling in of a portion of the rock across the cavity, his statements 
 may have been perfectly correct. The measurement made by the person quoted by 
 Catcott, in the Treatise on the Deluge, inserted in the second number of the Philo- 
 sophical Transactions, is still more extraordinary. He declares that he let down a 
 line, nine hundred and ninety-three ifar-ds, without meeting a bottom. It would how- 
 ever be more absurd to refuse, absolutely, any belief in this statement, than to sup- 
 pose that changes may have taken place in the floors of these cavernous depths. 
 
 In the year 17 70, ]\Ir. John Lloyd, F. R. S. an intrepid enquirer into the secrets of 
 nature, descended into tliis chasm, and published an account of his enterprise in the 
 sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions. " He was let down by two 
 ropes about forty fathoms long : for the first twenty yards, though he descended ob- 
 liquely, he could assist liiraself with his hands and his feet ; but below this, the rock 
 projecting in large irregular crags, he found it very difficult to pass ; and on descend- 
 ing ten yards more, he perceived that the rope by which he was suspended, was at 
 least six yards from the perpendicular, from hence, the breadth of the chink was about 
 three yards, and the length about six ; the sides were very iiTegular, and the crags 
 were covered with moss, being besides wet and dirty ; witliin fourteen yards of the 
 bottom, the rock opened on the east side, and he swung till he reached the floor of 
 the cavern, which was at the depth of sixty-two yards from the mouth of the chasm ; 
 the light, however, which came from above, was sufficient for the reading of any 
 print. Here he found the cavern to consist of two parts ; that in Avhich he alighted, 
 was bke an oven, the other, where he first began to swing, was a vast dome, shaped 
 like the inside of a glass-house, and a small arched passage formed a communication 
 between them ; in this passage, the stones wliich had been thrown in at the top 
 formed a slope, extending from the wall, at the west side of the first dome, almost to 
 the bottom of the second cave or oven, so that the further end of the cave was lower 
 by twenty-five yards than where he alighted. The diameter of tliis cavern he judg- 
 ed to be about fifty yards ; the top he could not trace with his eye, but, had reason 
 to believe, that it extended to a prodigious height ; for, when he was nearly at the 
 top of one of the incrusted rocks, which was an elevation of at least twenty yards, he 
 could then see no enclosure of the dome. 
 
 ''After cUmbing up a few loose stones, on the south side of the second cavern, he 
 descended again through a small aperture into a little cave about four yards long, and 
 two yards high, which was lined throughout with a kind of sparkling stalactites of a 
 fine deep yellow colour, with some small stalactical drops hanging from the roof. He 
 found a noble room of about ninety feet in height, of the same kind of incrustation, 
 facing the first entrance; as he proceeded to the north, he came to a large stone, that 
 was covered with the same sulistance, and under it he found a hole two yards deep, 
 that was uniformly lined with it. From the edge of this hole sprung a rocky ascent, 
 sloping like a buttress against the side of the cavern, and consisting of vast, solid, 
 round masses, of the same substance and colour ; he climbed up this ascent to the 
 height of about sixty feet, and got some fine pieces of stalactites, which hung from 
 the cragg}' sides of the cavern, that joined the projection he had ascended. He now 
 descended with some difiiculty and danger, and soon came to another kind of incrus-
 
 BUXTON. 15 
 
 tations, of a different kind and colour ; those being much rougher, and not tinged 
 with yellow, but brown. At the top of this he found a small cavern, o])cniiig into tlie 
 side of the vault, wherein he saw vast drops of stalactites, hanging hke icicles from 
 every part of the roof, some of which were four or five feet long, and as thick as a 
 man's body. The greater part of the walls of the large cavern was Uncd with incrus- 
 tations of three kinds ; the first was the deep yellow stalactites, the second was a thin 
 coating, resembling a light-coloured varnish, this covered the limestone and reflected 
 the light of the candles with great splendour ; the third was a rough efflorescence, every 
 shoot of which resembled a kind of rose-flower. 
 
 " He now returned through the arch, which separates the two vaults, re-ascending 
 the slope of loose stones, which greatly lessened the magnificence of the entrance into 
 the inner cavern. AV^hen he had again fastened the rope to his body, he gave the 
 signal to be di-awn up, which he found much more dangerous and diflicult than being 
 let down, on account of his weight drawing the rope between the fragments of the 
 rocks, to which he adhered, and his body jarring against the sides, notwithstanding 
 the defence he made with his hands : the rope also loosened the stones over his head, 
 the fall of which he dreaded every moment, and if any of them had fallen, he must 
 inevitably have perished. Being obhged to ascend with his face towards the rock on 
 one side, he could not make any particular observations on the rocks that were behind, 
 or on each side of him ; he saw, however, under the projection of the rock where the 
 passage first became narrow, the entrance of a cavern which seemed to penetrate a 
 great way, but he could not get into it. A gentleman who lived near the spot, told 
 Mr. Lloyd, after his return from this subterranean expedition, that there was formerly, 
 in the floor of the great cavern, near to the large heap of stones, a second shaft, which 
 had been covered by the miners, and was said to have gone down a vast depth, and 
 to have had water at the bottom, — this was probably the direction that the plummet 
 took which was let down by ^Alr. Cotton." This covering (says Mr. H. Moore) has 
 now probably fallen in, for a large stone being throv^n down the abyss, is heard for a 
 length of time, that indicates a far greater depth than that which is mentioned by 
 Mr. Lloyd ; we see it bounding from rock to rock, and breaking into many pieces : 
 by listening attentively, we hear those pieces strike the sides, with fainter and fainter 
 sounds, until they gradually die away ; so that we perceive no conclusion that can 
 enable us to say — it has reached the bottom. 
 
 The writer in the Beauties of England and Wales states, that the depth was ascer- 
 tained, in his presence, by a plumbing hne, to be sixty-seven yards and one foot. 
 This was corroborated by the assertions of three miners, who descended into this 
 cavern in 1767. The occasion of their undertaking (according to the Rev. D. P. 
 Davies) was the " discovery of two horses of a gentleman and lady without their 
 riders, near the abyss. The country people imagined (and perhaps with reason) that 
 the latter had been robbed, murdered, and thrown into Elden Hole ; and let down 
 some miners into it, in order to search for the bodies, but nothing was discovered to 
 justify the report of the murder. About the year 1800, a similar circumstance of a 
 man's horse, without its master, being discovered near Elden Hole, induced a body of 
 miners to undertake a like expedition, but with as little success as their predecessors, 
 and without making any additional discoveries. It is said, that some years ago, a 
 cruel wretch confessed at the gallows, that he had robbed a traveller, and afterwards 
 thrown him into this cavern." 
 
 The other natural curiosities in the neighbourhood, generally visited by the com- 
 pany, are Axe-edge hiU, 2^m. west, out of which issue four rivers, the Dove, tlie JVye, 
 the Dane and the Goyte ; the two first fall into the eastern estuary, the latter into 
 the western. From this eminence may be seen on a clear day, the mountains of 
 North Wales, and the light-house beyond Liverpool. Kinder-Scant, a mountain of 
 still greater elevation, 10 m. north of Buxton, situate in the wildest district of the 
 county, where there is an extraordinaiy waterfall that is the head of the river Sett. 
 The Marvel-stones, 3 m. on the Chapel-en-le- Frith road. Conihes Moss, about 3 m. 
 N. W. on which are some ancient military works, consisting of two deep trenches, 
 running parallel to each other to an extent of about 200 yards. That which hcs near-
 
 16 BUXTON. 
 
 est to the edge of the hill is carried down the declivity by two traverses, and reaches 
 nearly a quarter of a mile, and is much wider than the other. Chee Tor, 6 m. to 
 the S. near the village of A\"ormhill, on the banks of the ^Vye, is a prodigious 
 limestone rock, which rises perpendicularly from the river to the height of 360 feet; 
 and in most places, except where the mountain-ash, ivies, brambles and hazels, 
 have grown out of the fissures in its front, is quite naked. In some parts it con- 
 siderably overhangs the river, and seems to threaten destruction to the spectator. 
 Near the boldest projection of the Tor, a view admirably adapted to the pencil is pre- 
 sented. The \'iews in Chee-dale and Monsal-dule, though of the same general char- 
 acter, are agreeably diversified. Rhodes, in his Peak Scenery, says, this secluded deU 
 abounds in pictures ; every change of place exhibits a new one, and every one that 
 occiu-s is marked with a peculiar beauty. The other most interesting dales are Dove- 
 dale, about IS m. S. from Buxton. This dale has a pecuhar character j its detached 
 perpendicular rocks stamp it with an image entirely its own, and for this reason it 
 afibrds the greater pleasure. No admirer of nature should neglect to visit Dove- 
 dale ; for on the whole, here are the most picturesque scenes any where to be met 
 with. 3Iiddleton-daJe, 10 m. E. from Buxton, through ^V'ye-dale and Millers-dale, 
 is a deep chasm, which in grandeur and beauty is inferior to few of the valleys des- 
 cribed. Casthion is about 12 m. X. E. from Buxton, and is the scene of Sir M'alter 
 Scott's Peverel of the Peak ; the ruined Castle, the magnificent Cavern, called Peak's 
 Hole, the Sjjeedwell Mine, Mam Tor, called the shivering mountain, and a variety 
 of objects give peculiar attractions to this interesting neighbourhood. The Ebbing 
 and Flowing Well is about 4^ m. from Buxton, on the road to Castleton, at a place 
 called Barmoor Clough. This natural phenomenon is worthy the attention of the cu- 
 rious visitor ; it is situate near the turnpike road, at the foot of a steep hill, rising 
 more than 100 feet to the west. In dry weather it flows about once an hour, and in 
 wet four times. One mile from Buxton, in Wye-dale, is a narrow tremendous chasm : 
 a steep and craggy precipice, known by the name of the Lover's Leap, in this dale, 
 requires some firmness of mind to look do\\-n it without producing feelings of terror. 
 A new road winds along the dale, by the side of the river ^rye, to Bakewell and 
 Chatsworth, in a most romantic manner. Here hill and dale, rock, wood and water 
 are so harmonized, as to heighten the charms of this beautiful ride. — The natural 
 features of the county, the ancient tumuli, Roman stations, druidical temples, 
 rocking-stones, &c. are more fully described in the forthcoming History of the 
 County. 
 
 A large quantity of lime is annually burnt in this township for agricultural pur- 
 poses, principally for the Cheshire farmers ; and when the new rail-road is completed 
 the demand will be still greater. The hillocks produced by the ashes are excavated 
 and formed into habitations for the work people. 
 
 An extensive circulating library, a news-room, and an assortment of Stationery are 
 kept by the postmaster, Mr Moore. 
 
 To Philip Hcacock, esq. the intelligent and respected Agent of the Duke of Devon- 
 shire, we are much indebted for his valuable commimications relative to this portion 
 of the County.
 
 17 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 CHATSWORTH is an extra-parochial hamlet in the parishes of Eclensor and 
 chetesvorde, Bakewell, in the hundred of High Peak, 2 in. S. of Baslow, 
 
 Cheteisvorde, g ^1. N. E. of Rowsley, 3i 1X1. S. E. from BakewelJ, 9 m. ^^^ 
 
 from Chesterfield, 26 m. N. N. W. from Derby, and 10 m. N. by W. from Matlock ; 
 esteemed one of the seven wonders of the Peak, for its splendid palace, for nearly 
 three centuries the principal country seat of the noble family of Cavendish, which has 
 been celebrated by the poet, the historian and the tourist. 
 
 The following extract is from the Doomsday Book. 
 
 In Chetesuorde and Langelie, Levennt and Chetel had ten n.r-gangx of land to be 
 taxed. Land to ten oxen. This belongs to Ednesoure. Williani Peverel has the 
 custody of them by the king's order. Five villanes and two bordars have there two 
 ploughs and one acre of meadow. Wood-pastm-e one ynile long and one broad, and the 
 like quantity oj" coppice-wood. Value in king Edward.' s time 20s. now I6s. D. B. 295. 
 
 At the time of the Norman Survey, the manor of Cliatsworth belonged to the 
 crown ; and was placed under the custody of M'iUiam de Peverel. It was for many 
 generations the property of a family named Leche or Leech ; one of whom, named 
 John, was chirurgeon, or, as a nietUcal attendant was termed at that period. Leech 
 to the king, in the reign of Edward III. From this John Leech descended Sir 
 Roger Leech, of Beaurepoir, or Belper, who was Lord High Treasurer of England in 
 the time of Henry V. The brother of Sir Roger was Sir Philip Leech, who was 
 treasurer for the wars of France. Tliis distinguished knight was appointed to main- 
 tain a military post at the siege of Rouen. He was also governor of Monccaux and 
 Newcastle, and was sent by the king on a commission with the Earl Marshal to the 
 province of Maine. Raulf Leech was a captain in the van-guard of the king's army, 
 which entered France the 16th of June, 1513 ; and Roger Leech was his pety 
 captain. The male branch of this family became extinct about the middle of the 
 sixteenth century; but previous to that occurrence, the manor of Chatsworth had 
 been sold by Francis Leech or Leche, who had espoused the sister of the Countess 
 of Shrewsbury, to the family of Agard, of whom it was purchased by Sir ^V'illiam 
 Cavendish. 
 
 The extra-parochial hamlet of Chatsworth chiefly consists of the park, and com- 
 prises 1280 a. 1 r. incluchng about 4.20 acres of wood. The park is stocked with 
 Spanish and South-down sheep, cattle, and nearly 1500 fallow and brown deer. In 
 the summer and autumn months ley cattle are taken into the park, at 2,v. per head 
 weekly. The circumference of the park is nearly eleven miles, and it is beautifully 
 diversified with hill and dale, wood and water. Extensive plantations range in 
 masses over the inequalities of the ground. The river Derwent winds with a serpentine 
 course through the valley. Descending from the lodge at Edensor inn, the mansion 
 appears to great advantage, amid a noble amphitheatre of Avood. The foliage near 
 the house is connected with the remote hills by a succession of forest scenery, until it 
 terminates in the rude and barren mountains of the Peak. Many delightful views 
 occur from various points, almost all of which terminate in the surrounding moorland 
 scenery. We copy the following exquisite sketch from Rhodes's Peak Scenery. 
 
 " Immediately before us lay the river, across whose stream a stone butnicnt or weir 
 has been erected, which, damming up the water, exjjands it into breadth ; it is thence 
 precipitated over this interruption to its progress, where it forms a magnificent cas- 
 cade. On a gently ascending ground, about half a mile higher up the river, stands 
 Chatsworth, finely embosomed in 
 
 • Majestic woods, of every vigorous green ; 
 
 Stage above stage, hi;;h waving o'er the hills.' Thornton.
 
 18 CHATS WORTH. 
 
 " A little on the left is the bridge, backed with broad and ample foliage : cattle 
 reposing in groups on the brink of the river, or cooling themselves in the stream, 
 adorned the foreground ; and the middle and remote distances, which are ornamented 
 with a palace, a bridge, and towers and temples, disclose a scene as rich and as lovely 
 as the fancy of Claude Lorraine ever portrayed when under the influence of his hap- 
 piest inspirations. \' et the foreground had more of Berghem than Claude about it : 
 the respective features which constitute the peculiar charm and excellence of these 
 great masters, were most harmoniously combined ; every part was in character, and 
 the whole was faithful to nature." 
 
 The following sonnet, from the pen of Clio Rickman, written at Chatsworth, on an 
 evening in October^ may be introduced in tliis place. 
 
 " I always lov'd thee, and thv yellow garb, 
 
 October dear ! and I have hailed thy reign 
 
 On many a lovely, many a distant plain, 
 
 But here, thou claim'st my warmest, best regard. 
 
 Not e'en the noble banks of silver Seine 
 
 Can rival Derwent's — where proud Chatsworth tow'rs 
 
 Reflect Sol's settin? rays — as now yon chain 
 
 Of eold-tipp'd mountains crown her lawns' and bowers. 
 
 Here countless beauties catch the ravish'd view. 
 Majestic scenes, all silent as the tomb ; 
 
 Save where the murmuring of Derwent's wave. 
 
 To tenderest feelings the rapt soul subdue. 
 While shadowy forms seem gliding through the gloom 
 
 To visit those again they lov'd this side the grave." 
 
 Chatsworth House was begun on a much more moderate scale than the subsequent 
 desifoi by Sir 'William Cavendish, who, by his marriage with the celebrated heiress 
 of Hardwick, became possessor of a large estate in this county. Before one wing of 
 the intended fabric was raised. Sir 'William died, but his widow, who became Countess 
 of Shrewsbury, completed the whole building in a style which entitled it to be ranked 
 among the wonders of the Peak. 
 
 " Qualiter in mediis, quam non sperabitur, urbem As to th' astonish'd seaman's startled sight 
 
 Attonitus Venetam navita eernit aquis ; The city Venice midst the waves appears ; 
 
 Sic improvisa, emergens e mnntibus imis Unlocked for, thus, midst manv a mountain's height 
 
 Altollit sese Devouinina Domus." The Devoainian Hall its towers uprears. 
 
 The poet, R. Cunningham, who, for eighteen years was curate of Eyara, composed 
 various exquisite productions, and among the rest his verses upon Chatsworth have 
 been highly esteemed. The following passage will be acceptable to our readers. 
 
 " But chief amidst thv proudly pendant groves, But fairer when the silver beams of night 
 
 Majestic Chatsworth ! and thv fair domains. With trembling lustre on thy stream repose. 
 
 The Muse with loitering step delif;hteii roves. 
 
 Or thoughtful meditates her sylvan strains. " On Latmos thus, as Grecian bards have sung. 
 
 When Xijht's fair Queen forsook her starry road 
 " There in receding Scorpio's tranquil hour. And o'er Endymion's face enamour'd hung. 
 
 She loves, sweet Autumn ! in thy train to hear His sleeping form with silver radiance glow'd. 
 
 The red-breast, hid in golden foliage, pour, 
 
 Slow warbled requiems o'er the parting year. " And thus near fair Florentia's shining toners. 
 
 Her Arno's tide, immortalized in sone, 
 " Or wrapt in fancv's bricht elysian dream. Rolls from her silver urn through myrtle bowers. 
 
 She wanders, Derwent ! where, with lingering pride. And purple vineyards lucidly along. 
 
 The amber-treSM'd Xaiads of thy stream 
 
 Throu"h bending woods and vales luxuriant glide. " Oh 1 could my verse immortalize thy name, 
 
 Derwent! thy praise in song should ever flow 
 " Fair, when the parting sun's mild golden light With dulcet murmurs and increasing fame, 
 
 A mellower radiance on thy bosom throws, Like yellow Tiber, or resounding Po." 
 
 The ancient mansion appears to have been a quadrangular building with turrets, 
 and when the widow of Barlow, Cavendish, and St. Lo, became, by her fourth mar- 
 riage. Countess of Shrewsbury, and was with the Earl entrusted with the custody of 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, this hall acquired particular interest, as being one of the prisons 
 of that unfortunate princess. In 1 j70, the unhappy queen was removed to Chatsworth 
 from Winfield, and then resided here for some months. It also appears that she Avas at 
 Chatsworth in the years 1573, 1577, 1578 and 1581. In the month of October, 1570,
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 19 
 
 Sir William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burleigh, and Sir ^^alter Mildmay, visited Chats- 
 worth, and remained there twenty days, being employed in certain negociaticns be- 
 tween iVJary and Queen Elizabeth. On the return of Sir ^V'illiam Cecil to court, he 
 wrote to the Earl of Shrewsbury, stating that the queen was willing that her unhappy 
 prisoner should sometimes take the air on horseback in the Earl's company, to the 
 distance of a mile or two. In this letter he says, " the Q's Ma'J' is pleased y' your 
 L. shall, when yow see tymes mete, suffer y' Queue to take y^ ayre about your howss 
 on horsebacke, so your L. be in company ; and net to pass from your howss above 
 one or twoo myle except it be on y'= moores." But this indulgence was not Icng con- 
 tinued, and shortly after the Scottish queen was removed to Sheffield castle, which 
 was her chief residence during the ensuing fourteen years. In 1577, Elizabeth wrote 
 with her own hand to thank the Earl and Countess of Shrewsbury for their hospitable 
 entertainment of her favourite minister, the Earl of Leicester, at Chatsworth. 
 
 During the civil wars between the parliament and Charles I. the old hall at Chats- 
 worth was occupied as a fortress occasionally by both parties. In 1643, it Avas gar- 
 risoned by forces under Sir John Gell, on the part of the parliament; and in the 
 December of the same year, the Earl of Newcastle, having taken W'nifield manor, 
 made himself master of Chatsworth Hall, and placed a garrison in it for the king, un- 
 der the command of Colonel Eyre. In September, 164-5, it was held for the royal 
 party by Colonel Shalcross, with a fresh garrison from "Welbeck, and a skirmishing 
 force of tiiree hundred horse. It was then besieged by Major Alollanus with four 
 hundred foot, but the siege was raised by the command of Colonel Gell, who ordered 
 the Major and his forces to return to Derby. 
 
 The description of this building, as it appeared during the times of the Stuarts, by 
 Cotton, will be appropriately inserted in this place. — 
 
 " On Derwenl's Shore stands a stupendous Pile, 
 I.iUe the prouil Regt-nt of the Briti-h Ule. 
 Tliis vnlace, with wild prospects circled lound. 
 Stands in the middle of a falling ground. 
 At a black mountain's foot, whose craggy brow 
 Secures Iroui eastern tempests aW below, 
 Under whose Nhelter trees ami Jlowers grow. 
 With early blossoms niaugre fiost and snow; 
 Which elsewheie round a tyranny maintains. 
 And bmds crampt nature long in chrystulchainS' 
 1' he fa brick's noule front faces the west. 
 Turning her fair broad shoulders to the east; 
 On the sdut/i side the stately gardens lye, 
 W here the scom'd Peak rivals proud ttaly. 
 And on the north several inferior plots 
 For servile use, scatter'd do lye, in spots. 
 
 "The outward gate stands near enough, to look 
 And see her oval tiont in th' chrystal brook ; 
 But that slir has better refiexion 
 From a lirge mirror, neaier. of her own. 
 For a fair lake, from wash of tloocis unmixt, 
 Before it lies an area spread belwixt. 
 Over this pond, opposite to the gate, 
 A bridge o( curious structuie, strength and state. 
 Invites you to pass over it, where dry 
 Vou trample iiiay on shoals of wanton /r^, 
 With which those breeding waters do aiioiind. 
 Ami better carps are no where to be found. 
 A tower of antique model, the bridge foot 
 From the Peak-rabble does securely shut, 
 Which by stone stairs, delivers vou below 
 Into the sweetest walks the w<irl<l can show. 
 There xeood ami lealer, sun and shade contend. 
 Which shall the most deli;>ht, and most befriend; 
 Inhere grass and graivl in one path you meet, 
 For ladies tend'ier, and men's harder feet. 
 Here into open lakes the sun may pry, 
 A privilege the closer grovts deny. 
 Or if confeit'rate winds do make them yield. 
 He then l(ut cluquirs ^^hat he cannot guild. 
 The ponds, whicli here in double order shine. 
 Arc someof thein so large, and all so fine. 
 That Septune in his piogress once did pkase 
 To frotick in these arii/ieial ieas ; 
 Of wiiich a noble monuuient we find. 
 His royal chariot which he left behind; 
 
 Whose wheels and body moor'd up with a chain. 
 
 Like Drake's old hulk, at Deptford, still temain. 
 
 No place on eaitli was ere diseover'd yet, 
 
 For contemplation or delight so fit. 
 
 I'Yie groves, whose curled bows shade every lake 
 
 Do every where such waving UuuJscape make 
 
 As painter's baffl'd art is far above. 
 
 Who waves and leaves could never yet make move. 
 
 Hither the warbling people of the air 
 
 From their remoter ci lonies repair. 
 
 And in these shades, now setting up their rests. 
 
 Like Ccesar's iiwiss, burn their old native nests. 
 
 The muses too perch on the bending spraies, 
 
 And in these thickets chant their charming laies ; 
 
 Wo wonder then if the Heruick song 
 
 That here took birth ana voic.-, do flourish long. 
 
 " To view from hence the glilt'ring pile above 
 (Which must at once womler create, anii love) 
 Eiiviron'd round with :\'atures ihames and ills. 
 Black heaths, wild rocks, bleak craggs and naked hills. 
 And the whole prospect so mforme and tuile, 
 W ho is it, but must presently conclude 
 That this is Paradise, which seated stands 
 In midst of disaris, and of barren satulsf 
 So a blight rfi«;«0)/d would look, if set 
 In a vile socket of ignoble Jei ; 
 And such a lace the new-Liurn nUure took. 
 When out of Chaos by the Jial shook.. 
 Doubtless, if any where, tiiete never yet 
 So brave a structure on such ground was set; 
 W hieli sure iht- foundress built to reconcile 
 This to the other members of the hie. 
 And would therein lirsi her own graudi-urahem. 
 And then what Art could, spile of Aa/K/-«r, do. 
 
 " lint let me lead you in, 'tis worth the jiains 
 T' examine what thii princely house contains; 
 Which, if without so glorious to be seen, 
 Honour and virtue make U shine within. 
 The forenaiii'd outward gate then leads into 
 A spacious coutt, whence open to the view 
 Tie \wh\e front of the whole edjice, ■ 
 To a surprising height is seen to lise. 
 Even with \.hv gate house, upon either banc], 
 A neat square tunet in the corners stand; 
 On each side pUls of ever-springing green, 
 Willi an ascending paved walk between.
 
 20 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 In the ^een plat, which on the right hand lies, 
 
 A fountain, of strange structure, high doth rise. 
 
 Upon whose slender top, there is a vast 
 
 Pnidigious bason, like an Ocean plac't; 
 
 And without doubt, the modle of this piece 
 
 Came from some other place, ttian Rome, or Greece, 
 
 For such a sea, suspended in the air, 
 
 I never saw in any place but there: 
 
 Which, should it break or fall, I doubt we should 
 
 Begin our reckoning from a .-ecnnd flood. 
 
 The walks by stairs, raised fifteen steps high. 
 
 Lands you upon a Terrass that doth lie 
 
 Of goodly breadth along the building square, 
 
 Well pavM and fenc'd with rail and balister. 
 
 From hence, in some three steps, the inuer-gate 
 
 Rises in greater beauty, art and state. 
 
 And to the lodge admits, and three steps more 
 
 Sets you upon a plain and level floor. 
 
 Which paves the inner court, wherein doth ris« 
 
 Another fountain of a fine device. 
 
 Which large limb'd Heroes, with Majestic port. 
 
 In their habiliaments of war support. 
 
 Hence cross the court, thro' a fine portico. 
 
 Into the body of the house you go, 
 
 But here 1 may not dare to go about. 
 
 To give account of ever)' thing throughout. 
 
 The lofty Hall, Staircases, Galleries, 
 
 Ixjdgings, Apartments, Closets, Oflices, 
 
 And Rooms of State: for should I undertake 
 
 To shew what 'tis doth them so glorious make, 
 
 The Pictures, Sculptures, Carving, Graving, Guilding, 
 
 'Twoulrt be as long in writing as in building: 
 
 But that which crowns all this, and doth itnpart 
 
 A Lustre far beyond the power of art. 
 
 Is the great owner. He, whose noble mind 
 
 For such a fortune only was design'd." 
 
 The new buildincj at Chatsworth was projected bv the celebrated fourth Earl (af- 
 terwards the tirst Duke) of Devonshire on his retirement from the court of James 1 1. 
 That nobleman, in order to keep his patriotic mind from dweUing too intensely upon 
 the oppressions of his country, directed his attention to works of architectural taste 
 and magnificence, and resolved to raise a structure worthy his wealth and rank. In 
 this disposition he contracted (says Kennet) with workmen to pull down " the south 
 side of that good old seat^ and to rebuild it on a plan he gave to them, for a front to 
 his gardens, so fair and august, that it looked like a model only of what might be done 
 in after ages. "When he had finished this part he meant to go no further; tUl seeing 
 public affairs in a happier settlement, for a testimony of ease and joy, he undertook 
 the east side of the quadrangle, and raised it entirely new, in conformity to the south, 
 and seemed then content to say, that he had gone half way through and would leave 
 the rest for his heir. In this resolution he stopped about seven years, and then reas- 
 sumed courage, and began to lay the foundations for two other sides to complete the 
 noble square, and these last, as far as uniformity admits, do exceed the others, by a 
 west front of most excellent strength and elegance, and a capital on the north side, 
 that is of singular ornament and service. And though such a vast pile (of materials 
 entirely new) required a prothgious expense, vet the building was his least charge, if 
 regard be had to his gardens, water-works, statues, pictures, and other the finest 
 pieces of art and of nature that could be obtained abroad or at home." 
 
 It appears from the auditor's account and from a book of the artists' and trades- 
 men's receipts, which are now in the possession of the Duke of Devonshire, that the 
 south front of the present magnificent mansion was begun to be rebuilt on the 12th of 
 April, 1687, under the direction of ^Ir. NVilHara Talraan, an architect of some ce- 
 lebrity, the latter end of the seventeenth century. The great hall and staircase were 
 covered in about the middle of April, 1690. In May, 1G92, the works were survey- 
 ed by Sir Christopher A^'ren,* at which time upwards of £9000. appears to have been 
 expended. In 1693, Mr. Talman was paid £600. in advance for building the east 
 front and the north-east corner, which was finished in 1700, and in that year the old 
 west front was ptilled down. The whole of the building was completed soon after the 
 year 1706, which was about 20 years from its commencement. Mr. Talman received 
 upwards of £13,000. for his contract. 
 
 Artists employed at Chatsworth House. 
 
 Architect — AVilham Talman, a native of A\'iltshire, who was comptroller of the 
 works in the reign of ^VUliam III. Chatsworth House remains a splendid monu- 
 ment of the architectural talent of the builder, who, from this specimen of liis skill, 
 was evidently a man of superior attainments in his profession. 
 
 Painters — Laguerre and Ricard, who were engaged in January, 1689. These two 
 persons were much employed by Verrio, and it is not improbable that they were sent 
 over by liim previous to his own coming. They were paid £190. for their labours at 
 
 • It i> the impreeeion of many that Sir Chti&topher Wren built two of the fronti of Chatsworth House.
 
 CHATSWORTH. 21 
 
 Chatsworth. Verrio himself did not arrive until November in the following year. 
 He received £90. in advance for ceilings to be executed at Chatsworth. Lord Or- 
 ford considered the altar-piece at Chatsworth chapel to be Verrio's master-piece : the 
 subject is the incredulity of St. Thomas. In September, 1692, Yenio had finished 
 the great chamber, stair-case, and altar-piece. He was paid £A69. for his work. — A 
 Monsieur Huyd was also employed, who appears to have been one of Verrio's assist- 
 ants. Mr. Highmore, serjeant-painter to Wilham III. was also employed; and a 
 painter of the name of Price. 
 
 Sir James Thornhill was also engaged, but probably at a somewhat later period, and 
 when he was induced by the paintings of Verrio and Laguerre to enter into their 
 style. He painted the Fall of Phaeton on the back staircase, and in the adjoining 
 antechamber, he represented on the ceiling the assembly of the gods. His large pic- 
 ture of the rape of the Sabine women covers nearly one side of the same apartment. 
 Perseus and Andromeda, a large painting which occupies a place in the antecham- 
 ber of the Duke's dressing room, is by this artist. 
 
 Ironworker — Monsieur Tijou, a French smith, whose daughter was the wife of 
 Laguerre : he executed the iron balustrades, and received i,'528. for his work. 
 
 Plumber — Mr. Cock, of London, delivered a bill for work done of nearly £1000. 
 from which a deduction was made of £236. for overcharge. 
 
 Carvers in sioiie — Caius Gabriel Gibber, father of the celebrated author and come- 
 dian Colley Cibber, was engaged in 1687. Two sphinxes on large bases, with orna- 
 ments, which are much praised by Lord Orford, were the work of this artist. He 
 carved several door cases with rich foliage, and many ornaments. On each side of 
 the altar is a statue by him, Faith and Hope. It appears from Gibber's receij)ts that 
 he was employed, in 1688, to make the statues of Pallas, Apollo, and a Triton, for 
 which he had £100. In 1690, ('ibber made figures for the new fountain, supposed 
 to have been the four sea horses. He received in the whole £310.* — J. T. Geeraers- 
 hus assisted Cibber, and made a sea nymph and other figures, on his own account. — 
 Augustine Harris was engaged in 1688 : he made seven statues for the garden, for 
 which he was paid £4i. 18*. 6</. — In 1694, Nost was engaged, and made a statue of 
 Ceres, for which he was paid £30. and two years afterwards, he was paid fifty guineas 
 for a marble figure and a bas-relief. — In 1696, Davies was paid £24. for a stone 
 statue, and in the year following £130. for three bas reliefs and three heads. — A Mr. 
 Auriol was also employed. — Lanscroon carved the festoons in the gallery, for which 
 he received £42. and a Monsieur Nedaidd executed the ornaments of the great frieze 
 for the west front. He carved twenty-two heads for the galleries in the inner courts, 
 and six vases ; and for these and similar ornaments he was paid between three and 
 four hundred pounds. — Mr. Samuel Watson was also much employed, as will be seen 
 from the heads of several bills hereafter inserted. 
 
 Carvers in wood. — With respect to the general opinion that most of the wood carv- 
 ing at Chatsworth was executed by the celebrated Grinling Gibbons, we shall not 
 offer an opinion of our own, but extract the following portion of a note from Lysons. 
 
 " It has been of late years universally supposed, that most of the carving in wood 
 at Chatsworth was the work of the celebrated Grinhng Gibbons ; but we do not find 
 the least trace of his liaving been employed there at all. We find, indeed, in the au- 
 ditor's account, an item of the sum of £14. 15a-. paid to Henry Lobb, the carpenter, 
 for cases which conveyed some carved work, statues, and pictures from London : and 
 it is possible that this carved work might have been from the hand of Gibbons ; but 
 we find no memorandum of any money paid for such a purchase. It may be sup- 
 posed that the principal contractor for the carving might have employed the chisel of 
 
 • In a volume of the Artists' Receipts, now at Hardwicke, is the following memorandum of Cibber's prices, 
 in his own hand ; he says, that the rales he had at mv Lord Kingston's wore : '• For two figures in the pedi- 
 ment, each of them having foiirton of stone in them, £70. for one, and for both £M0.: for one round statue, 
 having a boy upon its shoulder, £60. ; for four statues which were not wrought round, £4'i. iDj. Od. per statue ; 
 for two dogs, £8. a piece ; for 12 t'a?sar's heads, £5. per head; my Lord did after this pay for my board, and 
 wine for me and my miin. And then I did two sphinxes at £10. a piece, having in them but three-fourths of a 
 ton. For two statues as big as the life, 1 had £3.0. a piece, and all charges borne, and at this rate I shall endea- 
 vour to serve a nobleman in freestone."
 
 22 CHATS WORTH. 
 
 Gibbons in London. If none of the carving at Chatsworth be the work of Gibbons 
 (and the presumption is certainly against it, whilst there is no proof for it) the con- 
 sequence is, that the art of carving exquisitely in wood was not confined to so few 
 hands as generally hath been suj)posed. The name of Thomas Young, who was cer- 
 tainly during three years the principal carver in wood, is not mentioned by Lord Or- 
 ford, nor those of Lobb, Davies, or Lanscroon : the latter, or a person of that name, 
 is mentioned as a painter. The slight mention that is made of ^^^atson is erroneous. 
 It is remarkable that no writer, before Lord Orford published his Anecdotes of Paint- 
 ing, &c. ever spoke of the works of Gibbons at Chatsworth. Dr. Leigh, who gave a 
 particular description of Chatsworth in 1 700, soon after all the principal apartments 
 were finished, speaks of the works of Verrio, but makes no mention of Gibbons ; nor 
 does Dr. Kennet, when describing Chatswortli in his Memoirs of the Family of 
 Cavendish. J. Mackey, who published a Tour through England (the result of actual 
 observation) in 1724, quotes Leigh, and makes no mention of Gibbons, which seems 
 to intimate that the carving was not then shown as his work. It is no improbable 
 supposition that Lord Orford, when he visited Chatsworth, seeing those exquisite pro- 
 ductions of the chisel, so nearly resembling the well-known works of this artist at 
 "\Findsor and elsewhere, concluded tliat they must be the work of Gibbons, of which, 
 indeed, there appears then to have been a tradition. ' At Chatsworth,' (he observes, 
 in the Anecdotes of Painting) ''are many ornaments by Gibbons, particularly in the 
 chapel : in the great antechamber are several dead fowl over the chimney, finely exe- 
 cuted ; and over a closet-door a pen, not distinguishable from real feather.* AVhen 
 Gibbons had finished his works in that palace, he presented the Duke with a point 
 cravat, a woodcock, and a medal with his own head, all preserved in a glass case in 
 the gallery.' " 
 
 The carvings in wood at Chatsworth are in the highest style of excellence : they 
 consist in representations of dead game, fish, flowers, shells and trophies, variously 
 composed and distributed. M'hether they were in part or not the work of the emi- 
 nent Gibbons, we may observe, with Horace AValpole, " that there is no instance of 
 a man before Gibbons who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and 
 chained together the various productions of the elements with a free disorder natural 
 to each species." It is certain that much of tliis beautiful carved work at Chatsworth 
 was executed by Watson, who studied under Mr. C. Oakley, of London. Samuel ^V'at- 
 son w-as a native of Heanor, in this county, and was engaged jointly with Lobb and 
 Davies, to execute the ornaments of the state apartments. He was the friend and 
 associate of Sir James Thornhill, who painted his portrait, which is now in the pos- 
 session of Mr. AV'hite ^Vatson, of Bakewell. It is stated that he was to have a tlsird 
 part of the work in the great chamber, the ornaments of which v.-ere carved in lime- 
 tree, in conjunction with Young and Joel Lobb, and that the whole payment was 
 £400. He received very liberal prices for all his works, as may be seen by certain 
 items from the original accounts, with the inspection of which we have been favoured 
 by Mr. White Watson, the grandson of this eminent carver, who is in possession of 
 the drawings and designs from which the carvings were made. These are contained 
 in a folio book, entitled Designs, Agreements, and Bills of Carved Work executed at 
 Chatsworth by Samuel "W^atson, from 1690 to 1712, ike. ike. 
 
 " Sep. 9, 1692. Joel Lobb, AVilliam Davis, and Samuel Watson agi-eed with the 
 Earl of Devonshire to execute in lime-tree, the carving in the great chamber, to be 
 done equal to any thing of the kind before executed, for which they were to receive 
 £400. : this carving consists of flowers, wreaths, fish, dead game, cherubs, &c. See." 
 
 The following agreement, upon a stamp, is among Mr. Samuel M^atson's papers: 
 
 " September 2, 1701. An agreement made between His Grace the Duke of Devon- 
 shire of the one part, and Samuel Watson, of Hena, in the county of Derby, carver, 
 
 • On the authoritv of Mr. White Watson, (prandson nf the Sculptor) who has shown the Proprietor of this 
 Work the design, which remains in the pncktt-book formerly belonging to his Rrandfather, we are enal)leil to 
 state, that .iftir Messrs. Watson, Davits, arcl Lohb had finishctl the carving in thepteat dining-room, they pre- 
 sented the Earl of Devonshire with the trophies over the two doorways in the south-wtst corner of the room; 
 Watson doing that with the pen, which was called in Heanor and that neighbourhood, Watson's pen.
 
 CHATSWORTH. 23 
 
 of the other. Witnesseth, that the said Samuel ^Vatson shall doe and perform, the 
 south front of Chatsworth, according to the several sorts of carved work, hereafter 
 mentioned, and the west front of Chatsworth house, according to the several rates 
 hereafter expressed and mentioned. 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 For the cilurnn capitalls 4 10 apiece. 
 
 Fi)r the pilla^ter capitalls 3 ditto. 
 
 The ornaments in the Freeze over the windows 4 ditto. 
 
 Tlie stag''s heails in the key stone 15 ditto. 
 
 The serpents in a twi>teil knott 10 ditto. 
 
 The lions heads ill the Cornish 12 ditto. 
 
 For carving two curbs in tlie door case of the front 5 
 
 For carving two curbs in the door case to the inner court, compre- 
 hending the work over the doors 4 
 
 " In witness whereof the parties above named have interchangeably set their hands. 
 
 (Signed) « DE VONS H I RE." 
 
 " Chatsworth, September 28, I 705. 
 
 " Mem. It is this day agreed betweene His Grace y^ Duke of Devonshire of the 
 one part, and Samuel Watson, of Henor, in the county of Derby, carver, of the other 
 part. Witnesseth, that the said Samuel Watson doth hereby covenant, bargain, and 
 agree to carve in stone six Corinthian capitalls for the north front of (Chatsworth 
 house, according to a designe approved on by His Grace, at the rate of five pounds a- 
 piece, the stone to be ready masoned at his Grace's charge. And the said Samuel 
 Watson doth hereby further agree to carve the medillians and roses in the intabliture 
 of the north front, every modillian and a rose at the rate of ten shillings both together, 
 and to performe the worke after the best manner, according to y^ designe drawn by 
 Mr. Archer. And it is further agreed that the said Samuel >Vatson shall doe and per- 
 forme, after the best manner, y^ severall workes hereafter mentioned, according to the 
 rates here expressed, viz. Work to be done for the head of the great cascade. 
 
 Fower shells for ye crowne of fower neeches, at \\s. a peece. 
 
 Eisht scrolls, 3 feet long by 1 foot, at 10.?. each. 
 
 Fower festoons between the scrolls, 3 feet long, 15*. each. 
 
 Fower shells with leaves in the freese, t' feet 9 inches long, 14*. each. 
 
 Fower shells with leaves outside the freese, 2 feet long, 10s. each. 
 
 The ornaments round the oval windows in the north front, 4 feet 5 inches high, 6 feet 8 inchea long, 
 
 50i. a peece. 
 All the mouldings in the intabliature of the north front, 8». a foot. 
 
 (Signed) "DEVONSHIRE." 
 
 Carving for the north front. 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 For carving six pelastcr capitalls 50 
 
 For the arcatrave ffreese and cornish, 731 feet of mouldings, carved at id. 
 
 per foot running 24 7 4 
 
 For carving 4.5 medallions and ro.ses 21 10 
 
 For carving 6 ovall windows 15 
 
 For carving 6 lions heads 3 12 
 
 £94 9 4
 
 24 CHATSWOHTH. 
 
 The following are the heads of several bills of carving done at Chatswortli for His 
 Grace the Duke of Devonshire, by Samuel ^V^atson. 
 
 lb. s. d. 
 
 A bill of oarveing don in the cornish in the lower dineing room in the west front 08 16 7 
 
 A bill for carveinga peice of ornament for one side the great gallery chimney, in wood 04 10 
 
 A bill of carveiiig in wood in the vper story in the west front, and in the lower dining-room, 
 
 in stone, for the bovfett 67 08 9 
 
 A bill of carveing in stone in the staircase in the west front 12 17 6 
 
 A bill of worke don in the chapell alter 03 07 
 
 A bill of worke don for ye Vpholsterer 14 05 
 
 A bill of worke don for ye Vpholsterer 05 0;) 
 
 A bill for carveing the survetor vnder ye midle part of ye west front, in stone 11 10 
 
 A bill for carveing ye 2 door cases in the west front 13 04 6 
 
 A bill of worke done in the cnrnish, in the salloon room, in ye west front, in the staircase, 
 
 & for ye cascade, & 6 forms for the garden 53 07 9 
 
 A bill of carveing don ffor the north side of Chatsworth 91 09 4 
 
 The Coats of Armes, containing 220 foot, setting of what is plain below, at 5s, per foot 55 00 
 
 342 5 5 
 
 Received in part of these bills of Mr. ^\■heldon 57 00 
 
 Of Mr. Rotheram, by order of Mr. Grosvener 80 00 
 
 137 00 
 Remains 205 5 5 
 
 December 5, 1705. A bill for carveing don 6111 3 
 
 February 29, 171 1. A bill for carveing don 78 01 2 
 
 These memoranda are sufficient to show that Samuel Watson contributed greatly to 
 the embellishments at Chatsworth. He died at his native village Pleanor, and is 
 buried in the chancel there, where there is a very handsome mural monument to his 
 memory, ornamented with cherubs, in statuary marble, and the family arms, Barry, 
 of six. Argent and Gules, three crescents, Erjiiine ; on a chief, of the second, two 
 broken lances in saltire. Or, inscribed with the following lines. 
 
 "Watson is gone, whose skilful art display'd. 
 
 To the very life whatever nature made: 
 
 View but his wond'rous works in Chadsworth hall, 
 
 Which are so gazed at and admired by all. 
 
 You'll say, 'tis pity he should hidden lie. 
 
 And nothing said to revive his memory. 
 
 My mournful friends, forbear your tears. 
 
 For I shall rise when Christ appears." 
 
 " This Samuel Watson died 29th March, 1715, aged 53 years." 
 
 The Arms of Cavendish, in the Avest front of Chatsworth house, were carved by 
 Mr. Samuel ^Vatson. The Arms of Cavendish, in front of the great stables, were 
 carved by Mr. Henry Watson, his son. The arms of Rutland, carved in Hopton 
 stone, formerly in front of the Rutland Arms' Inn, Bakewell, were carved by Mr. 
 White ^V^atson, F. L. S. and corresponding member of the Edinburgh Royal Physical 
 Society, mineralogist and statuary, Bakewell, nephew of the aforesaid Henry, and 
 grandson of Samuel. 
 
 Notwithstanding these proofs that ^\^atson was chiefly employed in the ornamental 
 carved work at Chatsworth, there is still reason to conclude that Grinling Gibbons 
 formed most of the designs, executed some of the work, and probably superintended 
 the whole ; particularly as it is apparent that the carvings in the chapel and state- 
 rooms are of the same characteristic beauty, and seem to be the production of the same 
 mind. In the life of Grinling Gibbons, by Allan Cunningham, recently published 
 in the Family Library, wc find the claims of that artist strongly enforced. " AU the 
 wood-carving in England," says the author, " fades away before that of Gibbons, at 
 Chatsworth. The birds seem to live, the foliage to shoot, the flowers to expand be- 
 neath your eye. The most marvellous work of all is a net of game ; you imagine at 
 the first glance that the gamekeeper has hung up his day's sport on the wall, and that 
 some of the birds are still in the death-flutter He was, how- 
 ever, much assisted at Chatsworth. The designs are from the pencil of Gibbons, and 
 much of the carving too; but there is plenty of proof that the hand of Samuel ^Vat- 
 son, a Derbyshire man, was extensively employed under him." And again, after
 
 CHATSWORTir. 25 
 
 noticing the ohi5ervations of Rhodes, and those of Lysons, to which we liave already 
 referred, Mr. Cunningham says, " There can be no doubt that Gibbons was tiie pre- 
 siding artist in the embellishments of that princely residence of the Cavendishes. The 
 stamp of his hand is legibly impressed every where. 'NVho could have given that 
 buoyant elegance to flowers, and that downy softness to feathers except himself.'' 
 Had the real master-pieces of Chatsworth been ^Vatson's, "Watson would not liave 
 remainetl in Derbyshire, to lead an obscure life, and be buried with a doggrell epitaph." 
 There is not much argument in these latter observations. Mr. Samuel ^Vatson died 
 at the age of fifty-three, and almost immediately after serving his apprenticeshij) in 
 London, was engaged in the works at Chatsworth, which occupied nearly the whole 
 of his time. He was therefore obhged to remain in the comparative obscurity of a 
 provincial life. 
 
 The erection of the modern mansion at Chatsworth was begun under the direction 
 of William Talman, about the year 1 G87 ; but it was not completed before the year 1 706. 
 The recent additions and improvements at Chatsworth have been made by the present 
 Duke, who has employed the talents of Sir Jeffery "Wyatville, since the year 1820, in 
 building an elegant northern wing to the original design. Chatsworth house stands on 
 the east bank of the Derwent, having that river on one side, and on the otlier a very 
 high hill covered with wood. The approach to tlie mansion, from Edensor, is by an 
 elegant bridge of three arches, which is ornamented with some fine figures, by Cibber. 
 Northward of this bridge is a small tower, encompassed by a moat, and approached 
 by a large flight of steps, called the boAver of Mary Queen of Scots, from a garden 
 which formerly occupied its summit, wherein that unhappy princess passed many of 
 the tedious hours of her confinement. The style of architecture in which the house 
 is built, is the Ionic. The roof is flat and surrounded with a balustrade. The 
 form is nearly square, the soutli front is \H3 ft. 2 in. in length, enriched with pilas- 
 ters of the Ionic order, resting on a rustic base; the west front is 172 feet in length, 
 with similar enrichments, and also a pediment supported by half colunms of the same 
 order, enclosing a quadrangular court, formed by the four sides of Chatsworth, which 
 in general style antl richness of ornament corresponds with the principal fronts of 
 the building. Two sides of this court have open balconies, guarded by stone balus- 
 trades, which are divided into different sections by twenty-two intervening parts, 
 that form the pedestals to the same immber of busts. The busts arc well carved in 
 stone, and represent some of the most distinguished personages in the reign of Queen 
 Anne. In this court there are some military trophies, which are said to have liocn 
 executed from designs by G. (Jibbons, the celebrated carver in wood : they are foi nitd 
 into four different subjects, and they embellish the east and west sides of the court. 
 In the centre of which there was formerly a fountain, composed of Derbyshire 
 marble, with the figure of Arion* seated on a dolphin. They are the workmanship 
 of Mr. Samuel ^V^ntson, of whom mention has been already made. The principal 
 entrance on the west is by a flight of steps, to a terrace which extends the whole 
 length of the building. — The principal external i'ronts are the cast, the south, and 
 the west. 'I'lie great northern wing is chiefly intended for the acconnuodation of 
 the Duke's numerous and distinguished visitants. The additions and improve- 
 ments suggested by his Grace, reflect great credit on the ability displayed l)y the ar- 
 chitect who gave the design, and on all who have been employed under him in the 
 execution of the woik; particularly Mr. Holmes, the clerk of the works, v.ho left 
 
 * This figure is generally cnlled Orjiheus, probably from the circumstance of his playing on a lyre, and tlie 
 well known classical fable of Arion is forKottcn. He was a musician and a poet at Lesbos, at a time when 
 those characters, thouijh now distinct from each other, were intiiuately connected. Having acquired great 
 fame in his own country, he travelled into Italy, and became rich by tlie exercise of his professional excellence : 
 returning homewards, full of the hope of enjoying in his own country the wealth he had amassed in another, 
 the mariners who accompanied him were tempted to throw him into the sea, that they might possess them- 
 selves of his riches. In this extremity he recjuesttd permission once more to play upon his harp before he died : 
 the request was granted: he struck the chords, and amidst a stream of music that astonished the mariners, lie 
 leaped into the sea: a dolphin, charmed with the strains of his harp, cauiiht him on its back, and in return for 
 the sweet music it had made, boie him safely through the waves to Ills home, where he arrived long before the 
 vessel in which he had embarked, when he told the story of his danger and escape. The mariners, on their ex- 
 amination, acknowledged their murderous intention, and as far as they were concerned in the transaction, they 
 confirmed the tale of the miraculous escape of Arion on the back of a dolphin. 
 
 D
 
 26 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 Windsor Castle to superintend the erection of this splendid structure. The chaste- 
 ness of the desipn, the superiority of the masonry, and every other description of work, 
 display talent of the first character. The arrangement of the whole will remain a 
 lasting memorial of the abilities of Sir Jeffry WyatvUle, and of the taste and mag- 
 nificence of the sixth Duke of Devonshire. 
 
 Nearly the whole of the numerous rooms and passages in the new wing have groin- 
 ed arched, or arched roofs. The basement rooms and passages are all built of rubbed 
 ashler stone, procured from the Duke's quarries at Beeley moor. 
 
 CHATSWORTH HOUSE WITH THE ADDITION OF THE GREAT XORTH WIKG. 
 
 Basement story. 
 
 The south front is approached by a double flight of steps. On the left hand is 
 the chaplain's room and the chapel ; on the right, is the auditor's room, breakfast- 
 room, bath, and dressing-room. 
 
 On the east is the coffee-room, steward's room, housekeeper's room, and still-room ; 
 together with the great hall, and the grotto-room. 
 
 The west front contains a breakfast-room, the west hall, the Duke's sitting-room, 
 and ante-room. The window-sashes are gilt. 
 
 The north front contains the book-room, visitors' waiting room, the Duke's ser- 
 vants' waiting room, the sub-hall, servants' waiting room, and various staircases. 
 
 The north wing is a continuation of the east front, which, with the old part, is 
 557 feet. In this extension of the north wing are the cockles for warm air, the scul- 
 leries, the plate room, the under and upper butlers' pantry, the staircases to the 
 dining-room, the confectionary, the house maids' room, and other oflSces. 
 
 On the other side the great passage on the same floor, is the room for the groom of 
 the chambers, the still-room, the servants' hall, servants' rooms, and the kitchen 
 court. There are also the laundry, drying-room, dairy, wash-house, bake-house, 
 scullery, larder, butcher's lobby, and the clerk of the work's room, and numerous other 
 ofl5ces. 
 
 TJte second story. 
 
 On the south front is the continuation of the chapel, the music-room, bUliard-room, 
 and drawing-room, ^vith the south gallery- On the east side is the hbrary and ante- 
 library, with the upper part of the great hall, and the grand staircase. On the west 
 and north fronts are numerous bed rooms, ante-rooms, dressing-rooms, wardrobes, 
 and water closets of different dimensions, with the north gallery, back stairs, and 
 northern and western staircases. On one side the grand northern wing are suites of 
 gentlemen's bed rooms ; and on the other side is the cabinet library, the ante-room, 
 the dining-room, the sculpture gallery, the orangery, the great banquetting-room, and 
 the baths. This story of the north wing is in the Doric style of architecture. 
 
 Upper story. 
 
 On the third floor are the state rooms, occupying the south front- On the east 
 front are the Leicester rooms ; on the west are various apartments ; and on the north, 
 the white satin bed and dressing-room, the taberet room, the plough room, the 
 armory room, pink bed and dressing-room, lobby, staircase, &c. 
 
 To give a minute and particular description of the present mansion, with the addi- 
 tions and improvements made by the present Duke, would occupy more space than 
 we can allow in a Guide Book of this nature. We shall therefore content ourselves 
 by giving the best description we are enabled to do, of a few of the most interesting 
 apartments which are shown to the public. The five plans given in the succeeding 
 pages, viz. the tliree floors of the fomier house, and the two stories of the northern 
 wing, will convey a more accurate idea of the extent and arrangement of this splen- 
 did structure. For the use of the working plans of Sir Jeffrey \\'yatville, which 
 are given upon a small scale, the Publisher begs to present his sincere acknowledg- 
 ments.
 
 CHATSWORTH. 27 
 
 The elegant entrance loJgc, leading to the north front, is a chaste Doric structure, 
 and consists of three arched gateways. These arches are divided into compartments, 
 and enriched with carved roses. The gates are to be of wrought iron, with gold en- 
 richments. The pallisadoing between the trophies on the west front and the lodge 
 gates, are to correspond. The centre or principal gateway leads to the northern en- 
 trance. The western gateway leads to the Duke's private terrace, which will be divi- 
 ded from the entrance court by an ornamental wall, with a handsome stone balus- 
 trade, the piers of which will be surmounted by sphynxes elegantly sculptureil by 
 Rossi. The eastern gateway leads to the office court. The entablature and balus- 
 trade are supported by eight Doric columns with pilasters. 
 
 The Entrance or Great Hall is sixty feet by twenty-seven, and strikes the visitor 
 witli an air of grandeur. The Mosaic floor of black and white marble was laid down 
 by Mr. Henry VFatson, son of the celebrated carver, in 1779. The paintings in the 
 hall are as follows. Side Panncl. — Julius Caesar sacrificing before his going to the 
 Senate, at the closing of the temple of Janus. Over the Door. — The death of Julius 
 Caesar in the Senate House at the foot of Pompcy's statue, which is thus celebrated 
 by Akenside : 
 
 '■ when Brutus rose, 
 Refulgent from the stroke of Caesar's fate. 
 Amid the crowd of patriots, and his arm 
 Aloft extending, like eternal Jove, 
 When guilt brings down the thunder, call'd aloud 
 On Tully's name, and shook his crimson steel. 
 And bade the P'ather of his Country hail ! 
 For, lo ! the tyrant prostrate in the dust. 
 And Rome again is free." 
 
 He died pierced with twenty-three wounds, the 1 Jth of March, B. C. 44, in the 
 56th year of his age. On the Ccilini^ — The Apotheosis or Deification of Julius 
 Caesar. First Oval Compartment. — Caesar passing the Rubicon. Second Oval Com- 
 partment. — Caesar passing over to his army at Brundusium. 
 
 From this spacious and noble room, the approach to the staircase is the most mag- 
 nificent that can be imagined, ascending by a double flight of steps, of rock of ame- 
 thyst, passing between two rocks of variegated alabaster, and guarded by a rich gilt 
 balustrade. 
 
 The Staircase is 34 feet by 24 feet. This part of the house was thought, by Kent, 
 sufficiently elegant to be borrowed for the princely seat of Holkham in Norfolk. The 
 paintings in this apartment are as follows. Over the Window looking into the Hall. — 
 Iphigenia about to be sacrificed by Calchas, at Auhs. Over the Gallery door. — The 
 sacrifice of Polyxena at the tomb of Achilles. First Compartment. — The triumph of 
 Bacchus. Second Compartment. — The triumph of Cybele. Third Compartment. — 
 The Nymph Arethusa relating to Ceres that Pluto had carried off her daughter 
 Proserpine. On the Celling. — The triumph of Cybele. In the JViches. — The statues 
 of Apollo, Lucretia, and 3Iinerva. At the foot of the staircase there are several 
 figures in chiaro oscuro, particularly one of Hercules. From the staircase we entered 
 a long narrow gallery, which is over the colonnade on the north siile of the quadrangle. 
 
 The Gallerif leading to the Chapel contains nearly one thousand original sketches, 
 by the most eminent Flemish, Venetian, Sj)anish and Italian masters: forming alto- 
 gether an assemblage of drawings, which, for number and excellence, can harilly be 
 surpassed in any part of the kingdom. The admirer of the fine arts will enter this 
 attractive and interesting apartment with pleasure, and will leave it with regret. 
 There are also paintings of t!ie four seasons and two flower-pieces, by Baptista. From 
 the gallery we pass on to the beautiful and richly ornamented Chapel. 
 
 The Chapel is wainscoted with cedar ; here painting, sculpture and carving, have 
 all contributed to its decorations ; the ceiling, and every part of it which is not other- 
 wise appropriated, have been embellished by the pencils of Verrio and Laguerre. 
 The painting on the side of the chapel, opposite the windows, is a large piece, 
 representing the miracles of Christ, in which some of the figures are very striking, 
 by Laguerre. In the compartment over the gallery are the twelve disciples, and our
 
 28 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 Redeemer, reproving tlie incredulity of St. Thomas. This is considered one of the 
 best and most successful efforts of \"errio's pencil. Pilkington, in his Dictionary of 
 Painters, when speaking of A'errio, says, " That performance which is accounted 
 his best, is the altar-piece in the chapel at Chatsworth, representing the incredulity 
 of St. Thomas." Laguerre probably had a share in its production, and the visitors 
 at Chatsworth are Irequently told by their attendant, it is by that artist. He had a 
 free pencil, and executed with great facility those combinations with which his mind 
 was stored. In the corresponding compartment, over the pulpit, Eartimcus restored 
 to sight. Over the door, Christ talking with the woman of Samaria. Beyond the 
 statuary, the two figures painted in relief are Justice and Mercy. In the spaces be- 
 tween the Avindows are Charity and LiberaUty. On the ceiling is painted the Ascen- 
 sion of Christ. 
 
 Caius Gabriel Cibber sculptured the altar-piece, which is composed of the fluors 
 and marbles of Derbyshire, exquisitely wrought and highly polished, and enriched 
 with F'aith and Hope, in full relief; a vacant niche, apparently intended for a third 
 figure, forms a part of the design of this altar. Charity, as a proper companion to 
 the Faith and Hope of Cibber, might be introduced into this vacant niche, and thus 
 fill up what appears to have been the original intention of the sculptor. The ex- 
 quisite carving in wood in this chapel, we have no doubt were executed by the cele- 
 brated Grinling Gibbons, though various other artists were employed in this depart- 
 ment. The floor is of marble, curiously inlaid. 
 
 The Music-mom adjoins the gallery of the chapel. The family are seated in the 
 gallery when divine service is performed. The organ is placed in the !Music-room, 
 and has a fine effect. The room is hung with white watered tabby, the chairs and 
 sofas correspond. Over the chimney-piece is a half-length portrait of the late Duchess 
 of Devonshire, presented to liis Grace by Sir Henry Fitzherbert, hart. 
 
 The Chaplain's-room adjoining tlie chapel is richly furnished and ornamented with 
 statuary. 
 
 The Drawing-room is hung with pea-green silk damask, ornamented with a large 
 painting of Diana and Actson, Perseus and Andromeda, and a painted ceiling, by 
 Sir James ThornhiU. Over the chimnev-piece is a Avhole-length portrait of his Royal 
 Highness, AVilliam, Duke of Cumberland, who defeated the rebels at the battle of 
 CuUoden, in 17 4,5, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Over the doors are some small pieces 
 of fruit, «S:c. by lleinagle. 
 
 The n/d Dining-rouru is 48 feet long, 28 feet wide and IS feet high. In this elegant 
 room there is a fine whole-length portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, of William, first 
 Dtdce of Devonshire, Avho wa-s distinguished as a wit, a scliolar, a soldier and a gen- 
 tleman. A whole-length portrait of George the Fourth, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. 
 Over the doors are trophies and fancy paintings, by Reinagle. 
 
 The Duke's Breakfast-rootn is elegantly furnished, and contains several good por- 
 traits ; among them we noticed miniatures of the Emperor and Empress of Russia, 
 half-length portraits of the Empress of Russia, the u'lOther of Alexander, and the 
 Empress Alexander, the Princess of Borghese, Buonapartt-'s sister. Honourable James 
 Abercrombie, Lord High Advocate of Scotland, Hon. Charles Cavendish and his 
 lady, Canova by Sir Thomas Lawrence, &c. 
 
 The Duke's Sitiinrr-?->inm is ornamented with interior views of Hardwick hall, by 
 Hunt, a scene from (iil lilas, portraits of Lord Nonnanby, Agar Ellis, &-c. 
 
 In the Ante-mom adjoining to the Duke's sitting-room is the painting of the former 
 House at Chatsworth, built by Sir "William Cavendish and the Countess of Shrews- 
 bury. 
 
 The Duke's private room is richly furnished, and contains a fine whole-length 
 portrait of His Grace, in his robes, by Hayter ; a whole-length portrait of His Grace's 
 mother, the late Duchess of Devonsliire, with her infant daughter, the present Countess 
 of Carlisle, on her knee, is an excellent painting. The graceful turn of the head of 
 the principal figure, the happy expression of countenance, the smiling face, and the 
 up-hftcd out-spread hands of the infant, are exquisitely beautiful and true to nature. 
 This picture is entirely and essentiidly all that it professes to be — a mother and a
 
 CHATSWORTH. 29 
 
 child mutually delighting and delighted with each other: it is painted in a full and 
 brilliant tone of colour^ and altogether it may be classed amongst the best pictures of 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds ; an equestrian portrait of the present Emperor of Russia, and 
 of the late Emperor Alexander, in a Urowski. (This room is not shown to the public.) 
 
 In the Housekeeper s-room are medals of the King's of England and of the Roman 
 Emperors, prints of the Uuke of Bedford, two Duchesses of Devonshire, Prince Leo- 
 pold and Princess Charlotte, Henry Lord Holland, &c. 
 
 Steward' s-room. INIount Parnassus, A{)ollo and the Nine Muses, Homer singing 
 the verses of his Iliad, which one of his auditors is transcribing, \ irgil, Ovid, Enni- 
 us, Tibullus, Catullus, Propertius, Sappho, Dante, Boccacio, Tibaldeo, and other 
 poets. 
 
 The Still-room is ornamented with numerous cases of the preserved skins of curious 
 animals and birds. 
 
 The State Apart?nents occupy the third story of the south front. These rooms are 
 lined with wood of the choicest description, beautiful and costly cabinets, exquisite 
 carvings, excellent paintings by the old masters, and fitted up with Gobelins' tapes- 
 try, representing the Cartoons of Raphael. The Mosaic floors are of oak, curiously 
 inlaid. 
 
 The Ante-chamber. Over the door is that carved deUneation of a pen, so finely 
 executed, wliich Mr. ^\ alpole characterized as " not being distinguishable from real 
 feather." The ceiling is adorned with many beautiful paintings. A singular and 
 ludicrous incident is recorded in one part of the ceiUng. j\Irs. Hackett, formerly 
 housekeeper, is drawn in the character of a fury cutting the thread of life. It is said, 
 that being violently enraged with the painter, he caught the air of her coiuitenance, 
 and represented it in all the deformity with which it then appeared. 
 
 The State Dining-room or Great Cltumher is an elegant and interesting room, 
 50ft. by 30JV. ,* over the chimney-piece are the representations of dead game, fish, 
 &c. They are so exquisitely carved in wood, and so accurately grouped, that they have 
 been generally attributed to the celebrated GrinUng Gibbons. The design might 
 possibly be from Gibbons, but the execution was chiefly by Samuel \\'atson, Joel 
 Lobb and William Davies. This room is ornamented with allegorical paintings. 
 
 The first Drawing-room. On the ceiling is painted Phaeton taking charge of the 
 chariot. First centre compartment, between the windows. Phaeton entreating his 
 father ApoUo for permission to drive the chariot of the Sun. Second centre com- 
 partment ; the fall of Phaeton. Third centre compartment ; the sisters of Phaeton 
 turned into trees for their presumption in bewailing the loss of their brother. Tap- 
 estry. — Jupiter and Antiope, Muses on Parnassus. It contains a whole-length por- 
 trait of Henry the Eighth ; a fine painting of the Holy Family, by Titian ; a snow 
 scene and other valuable paintings by the old masters. 
 
 The second Drawing-room is MJ't. by 30/?. hung with Gobelins' tapestry, repre- 
 senting the Death of Ananias and Sapphira, Peter and John healing the cripple, and 
 Paul and Barnabas at Lystra. In an oval compartment in the ceiling is painteil the 
 discovery of Mars and Venus. In this room are the following portraits, viz. AV'illiam, 
 first Earl of Devonshire, in his state robes, ascribed to Myteins ; and declared by Mr. 
 Walpole to be one of the finest single figures he had ever seen. Two fine whole-length 
 portraits, said to be the Earls of Pembroke, Avitli pointed beards, whiskers, vandyke 
 sleeves and slashed hose ; James, Duke of Ormond, and an Earl of Devonshire, in 
 the costume of the seventeenth century. 
 
 The State Bed or Searlet-room was so named from containing the bed in which 
 George the Second expired. The bed and furniture are of crimson silk damask. 
 This, with the chairs and footstools used at the coronation of King (ieorge III. and 
 Queen Caroline, were the perquisites of the late Duke, as Lord Chamberlain of his 
 Majesty's Household. On the ceiling is the painting of Aurora or the Morning Star, 
 chasing away night. In the first centre compartment, between the windows, Diana 
 tin-ning the country people into Frogs. Second centre compartment; Diana bathing. 
 Third centre compartment ; Diana turning Acta;on into a stag. Fourth centre com- 
 partment; Diana hunting. First corner compartment; Bacchus and Ariadne.
 
 30 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 Second comer compartment ; Venus and Adonis. Third comer compartment ; Me- 
 leager and Atalanta. Fourth corner compartment ; Cephalus and Procris. Tapestry. 
 — Jupiter and Leda, Perseus and Andromeda, Apollo and the Nymph Isis, Minerva 
 and \'ulcan. 
 
 The State or Great Dressing-room. In this room are paintings of the flight into 
 Eg>pt^ by Giunari. The sleeping Shepherd. Mary -Magdalen and Christ in the gar- 
 den, by Giunari. On the ceiling is painted the Judgment of Paris. 
 
 The best Bed-chamber. In this room the bed and furniture is of white satin, 
 painted. 
 
 The Dressing room commands a view of the water, and fine plantations in the 
 gardens. 
 
 The Duke's Dressing-room is hung with tapestry, from the story of Hero and Le- 
 ander. Over the chimney-piece, ^'enusJ Ceres, Cupid, Bacchus and Flora, with 
 persons presenting offerings to them. 
 
 In the Ante-chamber is a fine painting, by Raphael, of St. Michael and the fallen 
 angels. Andromeda and the Sea-monster, by Sir James ThornhilL 
 
 " So sweet her frame, so exquisitely fine, 
 She seems a Statue by a hand Divine." 
 
 The great JVorth Staircase is 29 feet 10 inches by 27 feet 6 inches, and about 40 
 feet in height. This staircase, which \vill be of oak, elegantly gilt, has a domical 
 ceiling, highly enriched, and a lantern of 18 feet 2 inches in diameter. The land- 
 ings will have oak carved balustrades, gilt and ornamented with the famUy crest, &c. 
 Two whole-length portraits of the Emperor and Empress of Russia, painted at 
 Moscow by Dawe, are in this apartment, which cost his Grace one thousand gvuneas. 
 
 The Buck Staircase is ornamented with statues and a painted ceiling, representing 
 the fall of Phaeton, struck by one of Jupiter's thunder-bolts, and hurled headlong 
 from Heaven into the river Po. 
 
 Painted Ante-chamber. In tliis room is a painting of the Rape of the Sabines, by 
 Sir James Thornhill. Here is also a painting of Eleanor Gwynne, with whom Sir 
 James was so enamoured, that every thing in the room bears her likeness. On the 
 ceUing is painted the Assembly of the Gods, or Deification of Romulus. 
 
 " Panditur interea domus omnipotentis Olympi 
 Consiliumque vocat Divum pater atque bominum rex 
 Sideream in sedem." 
 
 ^ne. 10, Book I. 
 
 The gates of Heav'n unfold ; Jove summons all 
 The gods to council in the common hall. 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 Between the windows are the figures of Prudence, Temperance, Fortitude and 
 Justice. Over the fire-place, Hope or Truth. Bronze compartments, over the fire- 
 place and the east and west windows. 
 
 Passage adjoining Painted Room. First compartment; ApoUo and Daphne. 
 Second compartment ; the river Apheus and the nymph Arethusa. 
 
 The Chint- ajxirtmenf contains paintings from Orlando Furioso, and portraits of 
 the second Duchess of Devonshire, and four cliildren, by Sir Peter Lely. 
 
 The Modern common apartments, generally called the apartments of ^larj' Queen 
 of Scots. It would be an error to suppose that this unfortunate woman ever made 
 use of these apartments ; it is an undoubted fact that she was confined at Chatsworth 
 at intervals during sixteen years, and wrote from this place her second letter to Pope 
 fius, dated 31st of October, 1570; but this event took place more than a century 
 before the building of the present house. A tradition exists that the apartments oc- 
 cupied by the unhappy Queen of Scots during her temporary residences at Chatsworth, 
 were preserved when the house was re-built. This is not probable, and indeed it is 
 certain, that nearly the whole of the south and east fronts were taken down when the 
 first Duke commenced the building of the present pile, about the end of the 16th
 
 CHATSWORTH. SI 
 
 century. It is, however asserted, upon tolerably good authority, that the rooms which 
 now bear the name of the royal prisoner, occupy the site of those which she iniiabited ; 
 and that which is called her bed-room, is furnished with the same bed and tapestry. 
 
 In the Crivison Bed-roovi are two landscapes, by an unknown artist, and a medal- 
 lion of Philip II. of Spain. In another bed-room are paintings of Bacchus and Ari- 
 adne, and Dance in a golden shower. 
 
 The Bachdin's Gallery contains a Panoramic drawing of St. Petersburgh, which is 
 about 46 feet long. 
 
 The Library is %%ft. %\ in. in length, by 22//(. 3 iv. in width, and 17//. 2 in. in 
 height. It contains a very large and fine collection of books, including the chemical 
 collection and apparatus of the celebrated Henry C'avcndish, in which there are nu- 
 merous manuscripts. I'he chimney-piece is in statuary marble, with wreathed fo- 
 liage columns. Over the chimney-piece is a looking-glass, Gft. by 4//. (i in. sur- 
 rounded by a bronze-gilt moulding, veined marble jambs. The recesses between 
 the windows, the ends and west side of the library, are fitted up with mahogany 
 book-cases, with looking-glass pannels over them. There is a gallery, supported by 
 bronze metal columns and cantie-levers, to which there is an ascent by a secret wind- 
 ing staircase in the wall : this gallery is surrounded by an elegant bronze balustrade. 
 The mouldings are exquisitely carved and gilt. The floor is parquetted and the doors 
 are mahogany. — The Ante Library is 29 /if. 6 in. by n ft. 6 in. and 11 ft. in height. 
 The Cabinet Library adjoins the Ante Library. 
 
 The Dining-room is 57 /?. 2 in. by 30 /'/. 6' in. and is 24 /?. 9 in. in height. It is 
 lighted by five windows of plate glass. The door frames are alabaster, and the walls 
 are lined with alabaster and have gilt mouldings. In the four piers between the 
 windows, looking-glasses are sunk into the alabaster. The doors are of mahogany. 
 
 The Sculphn-e Gallery is a noble room, 103 /?. long, 30//. wide, and 22/?, in 
 height ; it will be hned throughout with Derbyshire marble. ' The busts, groups and 
 figures intended to ornament this elegant and appropriate receptacle for such exquisite 
 works of art, are by the most celebrated artists, viz. 
 
 Madame Letitia Buonaparte, by Canova. Latona, with her two children, Apollo and Diana. 
 
 A statue of Mary Queen of Scots, in Maltese stone, She is represented as having entreated Jupiter to 
 
 by Wtstnnacot. change the people of (aria into frogs, for having in- 
 
 Venus Fiiatrice, or the Spinning Oirl, by Schadow. suited and refused hcra drauglit of water ; this exqui- 
 
 Bust of George the Fourth, by Chantrey. site group is by Hozzi. 
 
 the Duke of Devonshire, a colossal statue. Battle of Castor and Pollux, with Lynccus and Idas, 
 
 by Campbell. by Schadow. 
 
 Canova, a colossal statue, by himself. Castor and Pollux carrying away Phccbe and Talai- 
 
 Alexander, by Rennie. ra, daughters of Leueippus, and who were to have 
 
 Lord George Cavendish, by Nollekins. been married to Lynccus and Idas, by Schadow. 
 
 Lady Caven<lish, by ditto. Talthyl)ius and Eurvbates, two of Agamemnon's 
 
 the late Duke of Devonshire, by ditto. heralds, taking away Bristis from Achilles, by Thor- 
 
 Francis, Duke of Bedford, by ditto. waldsen. 
 
 Hon. Charles James Fox, by ditto. The death of Achilles, by Albacini, 
 
 Buonaparte, a colossal statue, by Canova. Venus Musidora, by Wyatt. 
 
 Alexander, a colossal statue, an antique. Venus Genitrix, by'Thorwaldscn. 
 
 Ariadne, an antique. Two scenes from Homer's Iliad, by Thorwaldsen. 
 
 Apollo, a colossal statue, an antique. Egyptian's Head, in Derbyshire black marble. 
 
 Homer, Sappho, Venus, and Faninis. Several Columns of beautiful variegated marble, 
 
 Pcelius Augustus and eight other anti(iues. from dift'erent countries. 
 
 Vitellius and five other antiques. Two liglitcoloured Urns, from Verona, rare. 
 
 Lucius Verrus, a colossal statue, an antique. Several V.ises, particularly a large and beautiful 
 
 copied from the original one in Home. one by Bartcleina, is worthy of notice. 
 
 Theheadof a Bacchante, by Gott. Two remarkably fine Lions, each weighin" four 
 
 The head of a Bacchante, by Canova. tons, carved out of solid blocks of statuary marble, 
 
 Hebe, by Canova. 9 feet long by 4 feet high. 
 
 Ceres Lores, by Canova. Anti(|ue Marble. 
 
 Laura, by Canova. Adonis and his Dog. 
 
 A Vestal. Discobolus. 
 
 Cupid and Psyche, by Finelli. Table of green Siberian Marble, given to His Grace 
 
 Mars and Cupid, a colossal statue, by Gibson, a by the Emperor of Russia, 
 
 pupil of Canova. The Emperor Nicholas and his Empress. 
 
 Venus and Cupid, the latter extracting a thorn from Mars, a colossal statue by Heniiic 
 
 the foot of the former, by 'I'enerani. The Princess Borghese, Buonaparte's sister, by 
 
 I opy of the Venus de Medici, by Canova. Campbell. 
 
 Endymion, by Canova. Ganymede, by Tadolini. 
 
 GermanicusandAgrippina, two antiques, purchased Cardinal Gonsalva, bv Thorwaldsen. 
 
 at Wanstead house. Cupid wounded, by trcntanova. 
 
 Greyhound and Whelps, by Gott.
 
 32 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 Ciipid fVounded, from Anaercon. 
 
 It chanced upon a sultry day, 
 Lnve amid cool sliailts was creeping : 
 
 In a rose, beside his way, 
 Tired with work a bee was sleeping. 
 
 Wak'd, enraced the insect rose, 
 
 HumminfT threats and vengeful stinging; 
 Full of jjrief ami full <>f woes. 
 
 Love shrieked out, his finger wringing. 
 
 To the Cvprian Queen he flew, 
 
 Ma'a, Mamma, most piteous crying. 
 
 Dear Mamma, what shall I do? 
 I am wounded, — I am dying. 
 
 Such a wound — O do but see, 
 A wing'd snake (may ill tiefall it) 
 
 Made this wound — I think a Bee, 
 I have heard the peasants call it. 
 
 Since, O Love (thus Venus spake) 
 Bees excite such anguish'd feeling. 
 
 Think what wounds thy arrows make. 
 Ever burning — never healing. 
 
 »N« 
 
 Bronzes. Peter the Great, on Horseback, Mercury, 
 Bacchus and Socrates. 
 Casts of Rousseau, Hobbes, and three other heads. 
 
 The numerous antique columns of porphyry and granite, the vases, marbles and 
 fossils, collected by the Duke of Devonshire during his Grace's several ^^sits to the 
 continent, are particularly worthy of notice. 
 
 A tablet of the stratification of Derbyshire, from East to ^Vest, comjjosed of actual 
 specimens from each respective stratum, by a scale of one inch to a mile. Also a 
 tablet forming a section of the coal strata in the neighbourhood of Chesterfield, both 
 of which were made and are fully described in the Dehneation of the Strata of Der- 
 byshire, by Mr. ^V'hite "Watson, F. L. S. 
 
 A specimen of fel-spar, from Labrador, and the dog-tooth spar, enshrining copper 
 pyrites, from his Grace's copper-mines, at Ecton. Fine specimens of the stalactites 
 from Castleton, and two beautiful stalactite columns. 
 
 The cabinet of fossils and minerals which was collected by the late Duchess of 
 Devonshire, and classed and arranged by Mr. White ^Vatson, F. L. S. of Bakewell^ 
 is intended to form part of the adornments of the new rooms at Chatsworth. 
 
 The Orangen/ is a noble room, 107 ft. 11 in. in length by 26/?. 7 in. in width, 
 and 21 ft. 6 in. in height. This room is fitted up ^vith eleven windows of plate glass, 
 each containing twenty-eight panes, of two feet square each. The centre -w-indow is 
 16 fi'. by 'iO ft. the others are 16//. by S ft. The glass roof is supported by unique 
 and beautifully moulded arches. The walls are adorned with bas-reliefs, in statuary 
 marble, viz. two medallions, representing Morning and Evening, by Thorwaldsen, 
 Castor and Pollux, the -nTath of Achilles, and Priam supplicating Achilles for the 
 body of Hector. In the centre niche, on the west side, is a group of Venus and 
 Cupid. In the centre of the room is a vase, six feet in diameter : it is of SwecUsh 
 granite, and was sculptured at Berlin, by C. Cantian. There is also an ancient vase, 
 in statuary marble, with figures in has relief; and a vase of green marble, upon a 
 jasper petlestal, executed at JNIoscow. Numerous Chinese scent-jars are arranged 
 along this elegant room. Among the plants, there are about thirty fine orange trees, 
 some of which were purchased by his Grace in 1829, and formerly belonged to the 
 Empress Josephine, and made part of her celebrated collection at ^lalmaison. 
 
 The Banrjiicfing-roott/, 81 /?. long, 30/if. wide, and 20/?. 5 in. high, is the highest 
 floor of the new edifice. This is crowned with an open temple, in the richest style 
 of Corinthian architecture. 
 
 The new dnii-i/ and dairymaid's rooms are under the baths. The dairy is fitted up 
 with Ionic pilasters, supporting a handsome moulded and pannelled arch. The floor, 
 tables, fountains, &c. are of marble. Over this dairy will be a handsome terrace, 
 communicating with the paved walk over the entrance lodge, from whence flights of 
 steps will lead into the flower gardens and to the Duke's private terrace. 
 
 The hatJis occupy the north end of the east front. These consist of two commo- 
 dious hot baths and a swimming liath. They will be lined with marble or Dutch tiles. 
 
 Mrs. Gregory has the care of the house, and shows it to strangers. This lady has 
 been a confidential servant under the Dukes of Devonshire for more than half a cen- 
 tury, and housekeeper to the present Duke many years. Miss Bown, an accom- 
 plished young lady, niece to ^Irs. Gregory, frequently goes through the house with 
 strangers, and explains the works of art, and the names of the artists, with great ability. 
 
 The Great Stables are about 250 yards to the north-east of the mansion ; the west 
 and north fronts of which are somewhat more than 200 feet in length. These are 
 handsome and well disposed. They were erected about eighty years ago.
 
 CHATSWORTII. 
 NORTH. 
 
 33 
 
 I 
 
 iiiliiiil 1 1 
 
 u> 
 
 f I 1 1 i J7» 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Plan of the 
 
 Basement Siori/ of Chatswinth Ilviixe. 
 
 1 Chapel. 
 
 
 
 Ifi Lobby. 
 
 2 Chaplain's Room. 
 
 
 
 17 Footman's Waiting Room. 
 
 3 Water Closets. 
 
 
 
 18 Sub Hall. 
 
 4 Auditor's Room. 
 
 
 
 19 The Duke's Servants' WaitinR Room- 
 
 5 Breakfast Room. 
 
 
 
 20 Duke's Private Drawing Room. 
 
 6 Bath. 
 
 
 
 21 Breakfast Room. 
 
 7 Dressing-Room. 
 
 
 
 22 Duke's Sitting Room. 
 
 8, S Coffee-Room and China Room. 
 
 
 23 Duke's Aiile-Koom. 
 
 9 Grotto Room. 
 
 
 
 21 West Kntrance Hall. 
 
 10 Great Hall. 
 
 
 
 2.) Breakfast Room. 
 
 11 Steward's Room. 
 
 
 
 t'l; and 27 Corridors. 
 
 12, 12 Housekeeper's 
 
 Room and Store Room. 
 
 2H Quadrangle. 
 
 13 Still Room. 
 
 
 
 29 Connexion with, and oommrtiopment of the Great 
 
 H North Stairs. 
 
 
 
 North Wing, shown in I'laiis four and five. 
 
 15 North-east Stairs. 
 
 
 
 ."0 Tea liooni. 
 E
 
 34 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 NORTH. 
 
 No. 2. Plan of the Library Story. 
 
 1 rhapcl continued. 
 
 IC Bed Room. 
 
 2 Music Room. 
 
 17 Dressing Room. 
 
 3 Billiard Room. 
 
 IS West Back Stairs. 
 
 4 Drawing Room. 
 
 19 North Gallery. 
 
 5 South Gallery. 
 
 20 Water CloseU. 
 
 6 Grand Staircase. 
 
 21 VVardrobe. 
 
 7 Great East Library. 
 
 22 Dressing Room. 
 
 8 Great Hall. 
 
 23 Bed Room. 
 
 9, 9 Ante-Library and Cabinet Library. 
 
 21 Sitting Room. 
 
 10 Dining-Ro<im. 
 
 2.5 Ante-Room. 
 
 11 North Staircase. 
 
 26 West Staircase. 
 
 Y2 Bed Room. 
 
 27 Chapel Bed Room 
 
 13 Xorth-east Back Stairs. 
 
 2« Quadrangle. 
 
 14 Bed Room. 
 
 29 Lobby. 
 
 1j Dressing Room. 

 
 CHATSWOllTH. 
 
 35 
 
 NORTH. 
 
 No. 3. Plan of the State Room Storij. 
 
 1 state or Scarlet Bed Room. 
 
 23 Lobby. 
 
 ii State Music Room. 
 
 21 Armory Room. 
 
 5 State Dvavviiig Room. 
 
 2.3 Pink Room. 
 
 4 State Dining Room. 
 
 2t; Pink Dressing Room. 
 
 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 George the Second and 
 
 27 Plough Room. 
 
 Leicester Rooms. 
 
 28 West Stairs continued 
 
 H North Staircase continued. 
 
 29 State Dressing Room. 
 
 It' and 15 Queen of Scots' Rooms. 
 
 jO Dressing Room. 
 
 14. 14 Lobbies. 
 
 .■51 Bed Room. 
 
 15 Grand Stairs continued. 
 
 52 Bed Room. 
 
 16 State Room Gallery. 
 
 5.5 Bed Room. 
 
 17 Staircase continued. 
 
 54 Hed Room. 
 
 18 North-east Bow Bed Room. 
 
 5.-) Bed Room. 
 
 19 White Satin Room. 
 
 3G Bed Room. 
 
 20 White Satin Bed Koom. 
 
 37 Bed Boom. 
 
 21 Tabaret Room. 
 
 5S Servant's Bed Room. 
 
 22 Stairs continued. 
 
 39 Quadrangle.
 
 36 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 No. A. Basement Story of the Great North Wing. 
 
 1 Porter's Lodpe. 
 
 ii Porter's Bed Ronm. 
 
 3 Gamekeeper's Room. 
 
 A Dairymaid's Room. 
 
 5 Dairy. 
 
 6 Dairy Scullery. 
 
 7 Milk Room. 
 
 8 The Duke's Staircase. 
 
 9 Area. 
 
 10 Office. 
 
 1 1 Kitchen. 
 
 IV! Ashes. 
 
 13, 13 Wood and Charcoal. 
 
 14 Bake House. 
 
 15 Wash House. 
 
 16 Back Staircase to Baiiquetting Room. 
 
 17 Coal Yard. 
 
 18 Office Court. 
 
 19 Vaults. 
 
 20 lee House. 
 
 21 Vegetable Room. 
 
 22 Butcher's Lobby. 
 
 23 Lamp Rooms. 
 
 24 Larders. 
 
 25 Pastry. 
 
 26 Pastry Cook's Bake House. 
 
 Clothes Brushing Room. 
 
 Shoe Room. 
 
 Confectioner's Bake House. 
 
 Housemaid's Scullery. 
 
 Housemaid's Room. 
 
 Scullery. 
 
 Kitchen. 
 
 Kitchen Court. 
 
 Basement Passage. 
 
 Steward's Offices and Bed Room. 
 
 Servants' Hall. 
 
 China Room. 
 
 Footman's Room. 
 
 (Jroom of Chambers' Room. 
 
 Lobby and Closets. 
 
 (Cockle Stove. 
 
 Silver .Scullery. 
 
 Under Butler's Room. 
 
 Plate Rooms. 
 
 Butler'.s Room. 
 
 Staircase to Dining Room. 
 
 Bread Room. 
 
 Confectioner's Scullery and Bake House. 
 
 Confectionary. 
 
 Staircase to Servants' Rooms. 
 
 No. 5. Principal, or Library Story of the Great Noi-th Wing. 
 
 1 Ante-Library. 
 
 17 
 
 2 Cabinet Library. 
 
 18 
 
 3 Dining Room. 
 
 19 
 
 4 Ante-Room and Music Gallery. 
 
 21 
 
 5 Dinner Staircase. 
 
 22 
 
 6 Sculpture Gallery. 
 
 23 
 
 7 Orangery. 
 
 24 
 
 8 Banquetting Room. 
 
 26, 
 
 9 Staircase to the Banquetting Room and Entrance 
 
 29, 
 
 to the Baths. 
 
 52 
 
 10 Lobby. 
 
 33 
 
 11 Swimming Bath. 
 
 34 
 
 12 Clerk of Work's Kitchen. 
 
 35 
 
 13 Clerk of Work's Bed Room. 
 
 36 
 
 14 Open Area. 
 
 37. 
 
 15 Stairs to Swimming Hath. 
 
 40, 
 
 16 Water Closets. 
 
 
 Passage and Water Closets. 
 
 Dressing Room, 
 and 20 Warm Baths. 
 
 Dressing Room. 
 
 Gardener's Office. 
 
 Court. 
 
 and 25 Gentlemen's Bed Rooms. 
 
 , 27 and 28 Valets' Bed Rooms. 
 
 , 30 and 31 Gentlemen's Bed Rooms. 
 
 (Jallery. 
 
 Passage to the Dining Room. 
 
 Servants' Staircase. 
 
 C'ourt. 
 
 Kitchen continued. 
 , 38 and 59 Gentlemen's Bed Rooms. 
 , 41, 42, 43 and 44 Gentlemen's Bed Rooms. 
 
 The following jire some of the principal artists and mechanics who have been em- 
 ployed to ornament and fit up the Great North AV^ing of Chatsworth House. 
 
 Bernasconi and Son (London) Plasterers. 
 
 Brookhousc and Co. (Derby) Plasterers. 
 
 Hutchinson and Co. (London) Painters and Gilders. 
 
 Armstrong and Siddon (London) Joiners. 
 
 Moseley Robert (Derby, Carver and Gilder to his Majesty) Carver and Gilder. 
 
 Westmacott , esq. (London) Sculptor. 
 
 Rossi , esq. (London) Sculptor. 
 
 Brown Richard (Derby) Marble Mason. 
 
 Ironfounders — Barrow, Stavcley, Smith and Co. Chesterfield. 
 Locksmiths and Bellhangers — Standley and Co. Birmingham. 
 Smiths and Ironmongers — Picksley and Bertram, Sheffield. 
 
 The masonry, wood work, plumbing, glazing, &c. have been executed under tlie 
 superintendence of the Clerk of the Works. 
 
 The rieasurc-grounds extend over upwards of eight acres of land : they are laid 
 out in lawns, shrubberies, fountains and cascades. They are rich in forest scenery, 
 and are particularly admired for the picturesque beech, chestnuts and elms with 
 which tliev abound. The fountains on the south front of the edifice, eject the water

 
 CHATSWORTH. 87 
 
 to an amazing height. On the east front is the great cascade, and the natural water- 
 fall, the latter of which rolls down precipitous rocks to the depth of forty feet. The 
 artificial water-works were designed and executed above a century ago, by a F'rench 
 engineer of the name of Grillet, and have recently been repaired and improved by 
 the desire of his Grace, under the direction of Mr. Paxton and I\Ir. Holmes. They 
 are curious and interesting as works of art, but, it must be confessed, that works of 
 ingenuity of this class appear to be misplaced among the sublimities of nature wl\ich 
 particularly characterize the surrounding scenery. The principal of these artificial 
 contrivances is the Great Cascade, which consists of a series of steps or ridges extend- 
 ing down a steep hill ; and on the highest of the steps is a temple. AVhen the cas- 
 cade is put in motion, the water rushes from the roof of the temple and from a va- 
 riety of lions' heads, dolphins, sea-nymphs and other figures that ornament it, and, 
 falling into a basin in front of the building (from which also several fountains issue) 
 is thence discharged down the flight of steps, and, having reached the bottom, disap- 
 pears by sinking into the earth. Among the other artificial water-works, is a copiier 
 tree, made to represent a decayed weeping willow, the branches of which produce a 
 shower. This has been renewed and much enlarged under Mr. Paxton. Here a 
 trick is sometimes practised on the unsuspecting stranger, while his attention 
 is fixed on the object before him, the guide turns a tap which spreads the water 
 to a considerable distance : which christens those who may happen to be within its 
 reach. The principal fountain throws up water to the height of nearly a hundred 
 feet. — The walks have been carried through the wood which clothes the hill on the 
 east of the building. These walks are of some miles in extent, from the necessity of 
 their being conducted in circuitous directions to diminish the steepness of the ascent. 
 The principal walks are thirty feet in width : these, and the pleasure grounds are 
 ornamented with sculptured figures and vases. On the most lofty part of this eminence 
 is the Hunting Tower. This building is seen at the distance of many miles; and 
 when his Grace is resident at Chatsworth a flag is displayed upon its turrets. It is 
 supposed to have been erected as a station where the female visitants could enjoy the 
 spectacle of a stag-hunt without incurring the dangers attendant on the chase ; its 
 height, which is ninety feet, as well as its lofty station, would enable them to see 
 across the surrounding hills to a very great distance. The tower is square, with a 
 rounded tower at each angle. 
 
 The Gardens appropriated to the growth of fruit and vegetables extend over twelve 
 acres of land ; and these are furnished with twenty-two liot-houses and numerous 
 forcing-pits ; they are at some distance to the north of the house. 
 
 I'he Flower-Burdens have been greatly enlarged, and are intended to surround the 
 house. They are laid out from plans furnished by Sir Jeffery "\Vyatville, under the 
 superintendence of Mr. Paxton. The style of the gardens on the west front is orient;d ; 
 and they are enriched with eight stone baskets elegantly sculptured for shrubs and 
 flowers, thirty-two feet square each. I n the pleasure-grounds there is a Spanish chest- 
 nut planted by the Archduke (now the Emperor of Russia) Nicholas ; an(l a variegated 
 sycamore, planted by his brother, the Archduke Michael, in commemoration of their 
 visit. It is uimecessary to say, that the greatest care is taken for the preservation of 
 trees planted by such eminent visitors on such an occasion. — A large weeping ash tree, 
 that ornamented the nursery-grounds of the Messrs. Wilson, of Derby, between forty 
 and fifty years, was, in April, 1830, removed to Chatsworth, and is now growmg 
 luxuriantly in the court on the north front of the building. 
 
 The celebrated philosopher, Thomas liobbcs, passed a great portion of his life at 
 Chatsworth under the patronage of the first Earls of Devonshire. The father of this 
 eccentric scholar was a clergyman, resident at Malmesbury, in A\'iltshire, where the 
 subject of this short memoir was born, in the year 1388. In his early studies, under 
 the master of the grammar school in liis native town, his proficiency was so rapid, 
 that before he was fifteen years of age he translated the Medea of Kurii)ides into ele- 
 gant Latin verse. He was entered at Magdalen- 11 all, Oxford, and obtained the de- 
 gree of Bachelor of Arts before he was nineteen, and, in the following year, was 
 rtconuncnded by the heads of his college to Lord Hardwick, who was soon afterwanls
 
 38 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 created Earl of Devonshire, as a person well qualified as tutor to the young Lord 
 Cavenilish. Mr. Hobbes became the friend and companion of his pupil, and, in the 
 year 1610, accompanied him in his travels through France and Italy. On his return^ 
 Mr. Hobbes enjoyed the society, and acquired the esteem of the lord chancellor Bacon, 
 and of the eminent Lord Herbert, of Cherbm-g. Ben Jonson had so great an esteem 
 for him, that he revised his translation of " The History of Thucydides." 'W^hile 
 this work was preparing for the press, the Earl of Devonshire died, and shortly after 
 the second Earl, in whose service, as tutor and secretary, ]\Ir. Hobbes had spent twenty 
 years. He was then in his fortieth year, and an offer being made him to accompany 
 the son of Sir Gervase Clifton, he again went abroad, but was recalled to England by 
 the sohcitations of the Countess Dowager of Devonshire, who Avas desirous of placing 
 under his tuition the young Earl, then in the thirteenth year of his age. In the year 
 1634, Mr. Hobbes accompanied his noble pupil to Paris and Italy, and returned to 
 England in 1637. Here he continued to reside in that nobleman's family, and wrote 
 his Latin poem on the ^Venders of the Peak, which he published in 4to. under the 
 title of " De Mirabilibus Pecci, Carmen." At the commencement of the civil war 
 between the King and Parliament, jNIr. Hobbes, who had rendered himself obnoxious 
 to the popular party, by his conversation, retired to Paris, and became intimate with 
 Des Cartes. It was in the year 1642 that he pubUshed his work " De Give," which 
 was the basis of his subsequent famous book entitled " Leviathan." He continued to 
 reside at Paris, where he was recommended to the Prince of Wales (afterwards 
 Charles II.) as a mathematical and philosophical tutor. During a severe illness with 
 which he was attacked in the metropoUs of France, his friend, father Mersenne, at- 
 tempted his conversion to the catholic faith, but he told the worthy priest that he had 
 debated all those matters in his own mind long before. 
 
 In the year 1650, he published a small treatise, at London, entitled ''Human Na- 
 ture," which ]\Ir. Addison pronounces to be his best work ; and in the next year ap- 
 peared his " Leviathan," a work which displays immense learning and ingenuity, and 
 with many sound and important observations on politics and government, contains 
 notions that have been regarded as both paradoxical and dangerous. Upon its pubh- 
 cation, the whole body of the English clergy took the alarm ; and the author was not 
 only suspected to be inimical to the cause of revelation, but in pohtics to favour the 
 cause of democracy. These suspicions dissolved his connexion with Charles II. at 
 Paris, and, according to Lord Clarendon, he was compelled secretly to effect his escape. 
 
 On his return to his native country, he found a welcome asylum in the Devonshire 
 family, and commonly passed his summers at Chatsworth, and his winters in London. 
 On the restoration of Charles II. Mr. Hobbes attended the Earl of Devonshire to 
 court, where he was well received by the monarch, who admitted him to a private 
 audience, ordered his portrait to be painted by an eminent artist, in order that it 
 might be placed in the royal closet, and settled upon him a pension of £100. per an- 
 num. His " Leviathan" was nevertheless censured by a vote of parliament. He 
 enjoyed, hovever, the high estimation of the learned men and philosophers of all coun- 
 tries, and among the foreigners of distinction who visited him, was Cosmo de Me- 
 dicis, then Prince of Tuscany, who, having received his picture and a complete col- 
 lection of his writings, ordered them to be placed in the library of Florence. 
 
 In the year 1672, Mr. Hobbes wrote his own life in Latin verse, when, as he ob- 
 serves, he had completed his eighty-fourth year. In this poem, he informs his rea- 
 ders that wlien he retired to France his whole fortune consisted of £500. ; and he ob- 
 serves that, with the accession of a legacy of £200. together with an annuity of £80. 
 a year from his patron, the Earl of Devonshire, he could easily persuade himself that 
 neither Croesus nor Crassus were richer than he. In 1674, he pubhshed a translation 
 in English verse of four books of Homer's Odyssey, which were so well received by 
 the public, that he was encouraged to undertake a version of the whole Iliad and the 
 remaining books of the Odyssey. This task (an astonishing labour for a man of 
 eighty-seven) he completed, and published the work in 1675 ; and in less than ten 
 years, it ran through three large editions. The versification is very bad, and there 
 are tiaces throughout of tlie carelessness or weakness of senility ; but Mr. Pope, in his
 
 CHATSWORTH. 39 
 
 preface to his own translation, admits that the sense is in general correctly given. 
 Mr. Hobbes continued for four years longer to employ himself in literary pursuits, 
 and in the year of his death, he sent his " Behemoth," or a History of the Civil 
 Wars, from 1640 to 1660, "to an eminent bookseller, requesting that it might not 
 be published until an interval of some years had elapsed. The work, however, made 
 its appearance shortly after the decease of the author. He was about this time seized 
 with a suppression of urine, and on being informed by the physician that the com- 
 plaint would probably be fatal, he said, "'Tis well — I shall find a hole, at last, to 
 creep out of the world at." In the month of November, his patron, the Earl of 
 Devonslu're, removed from Chatsworth to Hardwick, when Mr. Hobbes earnestly 
 persisting in requesting that he might be carried to the same place, he was conveyed 
 thither upon a feather-bed. He bore the journey Avithout much inconvenience ; but 
 within a few days afterwards, he lost the use of speech and of his right arm by a para- 
 lytic attack; and on the 4th of December, 1679, he died in the 92nd year of his age. 
 
 Hobbes was a man of strong and capacious mind, and he had greatly enriched his 
 natural powers by his acquired knowledge. He reasoned closely, but he had much in 
 his early prejudices and general habit of thinking to overcome, and it is manifest that 
 he permitted himself to yield slowly to the force of truth. Notwithstanding the de- 
 votion to high monarchical principles with which he entered life, and which were fos- 
 tered by the leading principles of the noble family in which he was so honourably do- 
 mesticated, his great work, the " Leviathan," insists determinately on the natural and 
 political equality of mankind, and contains sentiments which, however qualified, are 
 favourable to democracy. If he is an adversary to the doctrines of revealed religion, 
 he is an unwilling one, and in his conduct he was a practical adherent to the estab- 
 lished church, adopting her creed, and regularly communicating with her members. 
 Ecclesiastical power rather than religion is the topic of his severest animadversions. 
 Considering his position and the times in which he lived, he did much, it must be 
 confessed, towards the emancipation of the human mind, and if his two noble pupils 
 did not catch his tone of ratiocination, he made, it is probable, a deep impression 
 upon the sentiments of that illustrious family, which was seen in the conduct of the 
 first Duke of Devonshire at the period of the Revolution : nor will it ever be con- 
 sidered as the least honour of Chatsworth that it was the seat of the lucubrations of 
 Thomas Hobbes. 
 
 St. Evremond, in one of his letters to Waller, dated from Chatsworth, details some 
 interesting particulars of this extraordinary man, whom he found, as he expresses it, 
 " like Jupiter, involved in clouds of his own raising." He says, 
 
 " I now write to you from the Earl of Devonshire's, where I have been this fortnight past, paving my devo- 
 tions to the Genius of Nature. Nothing can be more romantic than this country except the region about Va- 
 lois, and nothing can equal this place in beauty but the borders of the lake. 
 
 " It was not, however, so much the desire of seeing natural curiosities that drew me hither: there is a cer- 
 tain moral curiosity under this roof which I have long wished to see, and my Lord Devonshire had the good- 
 ness to indulge me by a very kind invitation: 1 need not tell you that I mean the great philosopher Mr. Hobbes, 
 so distinguished for the singularity of his sentiments and disposition. I arrived a little before dinner, notwith- 
 standing which the Earl told me he believed I was too late to see Mr. Hobbes that day. • As be docs not think 
 like other men,' said his Lordship, ' it is his opinion that he should not live like other men; I supi)ose he dined 
 about two hours ago, and he is now shut up for the rest of the day : your only time to sec him is in the morn- 
 ing, but then he walks so fast up those hills that unless you are mounted on one of my ablest hunters you will 
 not keep pace with him.' It was not long before I obtained an audience extraordinary of this literary ixiten- 
 tate, whom I found, like Jupiter, involved in clouds of his own raising. He was entrenched behind a' battery 
 of ten or twelve guns, charsed with a stinking combustible called tobacco. Two or three of these he had firecl 
 off, and replaced them in the same order. A fourth he levclleil so mathematically against me, that I was hardly 
 able to maintain my post, though I assumed the character and dignity of embassador from the republic of 
 letters. ' I am sorry for your republic," said Hobbes, ' for if they send you to me in that capacity, they either 
 want me or are afraid of me: men have but two motives for their applications — interest and fear; but the 
 latter is in my opinion most predominant.' I told him that my commission extended no farther than to make 
 him their compliments, and to enquire after his health. ' If tliat be all,' said he, ' your republic does nothing 
 more than negociate by the maxims of other slates, that is, by hypocrisy: all men are necessarily in a state of 
 war, but all authors hate each other upon principle: for my part, I am at enmity with the whole corps, from 
 the Bishop of Salisbury down to the bell-man : nay, I hate their writings as much as I do themselves : there is 
 nothing so pernicious as reading; it destroys all originality of sentiment. My Lord Devonshire has more than 
 ten thousand volumes in his house : I entreated his Lordship to lodge me as far as possible from that pestilen- 
 tial corner: I have but one book, and that is F.uclid, but I begin to be tired of him; I believe he has done 
 more harm than good; he has set fools a reasoning.' — • There is one thing in Mr. Hobbes's conduct,' said Lord 
 Devonshire, ' that I am unable to account for : he is always railing at books, yet always adding to their num- 
 ber.' — ' 1 write, my Lord,' answered Hobbes, ' to show the folly of writing. Were all the books in the world 
 on board one vessel, I should feel a greater pleasure than that Lucretius speaks of in seeing the wreck.' — ' But
 
 40 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 should you feel no tenderness for your own productions ?'— ' I care for nothing,' added he, ' but the Lei'iatlian, 
 and that rriight pi)ssiblv escape by swimming.' 
 
 " As he had frequently changed his political principles, I did not think it of consequence to enquire into his 
 ideas of government; but in the course of conversation I found that he looked upon the principal engine of ad- 
 ministration to be Fear. ' All governraent,' said he, ' is in iUelf an evil: it is nothing but the continual im- 
 position of terror and inflictions of punishment: it must be owned that it is an evil which the natural depravity 
 of men has rendered necessary to the existence of society ; but still, it cannot in itself be looked upon with any 
 other sensations than such as are excited by the view of its several instruments— the scourge, the gibbet, and 
 the jail the sight of majesty inspires me with no other ideas than such as arise when I see the lowest execu- 
 tioner of the civil power.'—' That is,' said Lord Devonshire, ' you have the same resjwct for the king as the 
 hangman.'—' Pardon me, mv Lord,' returned Hobbes, recollecting himself, ' the king is a very worthy gentle- 
 man : you know I had the honour of teaching him philosophy at Paris.'—' Oh, Mr. Hobbes,' replied his Lord- 
 ship, ' in that respect your royal pupil does you much honour.' " 
 
 The celebrated Marshal TaUard, who was taken prisoner on the plains of IIocli- 
 stedt, near Blenheim, by the Duke of Marlborough, in 1704., remained a prisoner in 
 this country during a period of seven years. He was invited by the Duke of Devon- 
 shire to Chatsworth, and nobly entertained by him for several days. On departing, 
 he paid his Grace this pleasing compliment : " I\Iy Lord Duke, when I compute the 
 days of my captivity in England, I shall leave out those I have passed at Chatsworth." 
 
 In September, 1768, the king of Denmark visited Chatsworth, and was entertained 
 there with great splendour, during his tour through the north of England. 
 
 In 1816, the present Emperor of Russia, then the Archduke Nicholas, was, during 
 the month of December, magnificently entertained by the present Duke of Devon- 
 shire ; and this reception was most cordially remembered when his Grace was appointed 
 ambassador to St. Petersburgh, to congratulate his Imperial Majesty on liis accession 
 to the throne. — In 1818, the Grand Duke Michael of Russia, then on a tour through 
 England, was received with splendid hospitality at Chatsworth. 
 
 The illustrious family of Cavendish derives its origin from one of the branches of 
 the De Gemons, whose ancestor was a distinguished officer, in the service of 'NVilUam 
 of Xormandy, and who received from the Conqueror donations of land in Hertford- 
 sliire, Gloucestershire, and other counties. The founder of tlie line, which has given 
 to the country the patriotic Earls and Dukes of Devonshire, was Geoffrey, designated 
 of Moor hall, in Derbyshire, who hved in the reign of Edward I. His son, Iloger, 
 resided at Grimstone hall, in the county of Suffolk, and having espoused the daughter 
 and heiress of John Pottin or Potkins, lord of the manor of Cavendish, his children, 
 in compliment to their mother, assumed the name of Cavendish. This Roger died 
 in the reign of Edward II. leaving three sons, John, Roger and Stephen. The eldest 
 became Lord Chief Justice in 1366, and was chancellor of the University of Cam- 
 bridge. This eminent man was seized by the insurgents of Suffolk, as he was re- 
 turnin<r from suppressing an insurrection in York, in 1381, and beheaded at Bury St. 
 Edmunds. By his wiU, dated 4 Richard II. he was buried in the chancel of the 
 church of Cavendish, and numerous manors and other possessions were bequeathed to 
 his son, Andrew Cavendish. From Roger, the second brother of the Lord Chief 
 Justice, descended the famous circumnavigator. Sir Thomas Cavendish, who, in 
 the vear 1586, undertook the third voyage round the world. His third brother, Ste- 
 phen, was bred to trade, and represented the city of London in parliament, and was 
 also lord mayor. — Andi-ew, the eldest son of the Lord Chief Justice, left issue a son, 
 from whom the estates passed, by fine, to "\rilliam, the eldest son of Sir John Caven- 
 dish, who was the second son of the Lord Chief Justice.* This Sir John was knighted 
 for slaying ^^at Tyler, in 1379, and had an annuity of forty pounds per annum set- 
 tled upon him and his heirs. He was one of the Esquires of the body to Richard II. 
 and Henry V. to the last of whom he was embroiderer of the wardrobe, and in Octo- 
 ber, 1415, he was present at the battle of Agincourt. In a direct line from Sir John, 
 in the fourth descent, we find Sir "VVilliam Cavendish, of Chatsworth, who rose to 
 
 » Cavendish is a towne or village in Suffolke, wherein tlie valiant gentleman, John Cavendish, esq. who slew 
 that arch rebell. Watt Tyler, Anno Reg. Regis, Rio. 'J 4. was borne, which fact was not long unrevenged, for, 
 in the same \ care, the rel)els of N'nrfolke and Sutf. )lkc, untler the conduct of their captaine, .Sir John Wraw 
 (a detestable priest) took Sir John Cavendish, knight, cousin to the foresaid John, Chiefe Justice of the King's 
 Bench, and Ijeheaded him, together with Sir John, of Cambridge, prior of St. Edmundsbury, whose heads they 
 set on the pillory in the market-place. (Weever's Futieral MonumentiJ
 
 CHATSWORTH. 41 
 
 ejeat distinction during the reign of Henry VIII. throiigli the influence of Cardinal 
 Wolsey. After the death of tlie Cardinal, the monarch took hiin into fjivour, and 
 told him "he should be his servant in his chamber, as he had been with liis former 
 master." At the suppression of the religious houses, Sir AV'illiam was aj)pointe(l one 
 of the commissioners for visiting them ; and some time afterwards, he was made one 
 of the auditors of the court of augmentation, which was instituted for the extinction 
 of monastic establishments. Three manors in Hertfordshire were the reward of his 
 services, and he was appointed treasurer of the chamber and privy counsellor. In the 
 reign of Edward VI. he exchanged his IIcrtfortLshire manors for several lands, &c. 
 belonging to the dissolved priories and abbeys in Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Staf- 
 fordshire, Dorsetshire, Cornwall, Kent and Essex, besides Northawberry in Lincoln- 
 shire, the site of the priory and rectory of Cardigan, in South ^\'alcs, Avith other lands 
 in Cornwall and elsewhere. The third wife of Sir AVilliam Cavendish was Elizabeth, 
 the daughter of John Ilardwick, of Ilardwick, and widow of llobert l?arley, of Der- 
 byshire. This lady was subsequently Countess of Shrewsbury. Being co-heiress 
 with her brother, she brought the manor of Ilardwick, with other very considerable 
 property to the Cavendish family. She built three of the most elegant seats that were 
 ever raised at the expense of one family within the same county. These were Chats- 
 worth, Hardwick and Old Cotes, and these were aU transmitted entire to the first 
 Duke of Devonshire. When the unfortunate Mary, queen of Scots, was committed 
 prisoner to the care of the Earl of Shrewsbury for seventeen years, the Countess was 
 appointed the keeper of her majesty, and some of the queen's needle- work is still pre- 
 served at C;hatsworth and Ilardwick. — From the second son of Sir A\'illiam Caven- 
 dish and this lady, has descended the first branch of this illustrious family. This 
 second son. Sir ^V"illiam, was created Earl of Devonshire and Baron Hardwick by James 
 I. in 1618 : his lordship contributed greatly to the rise of the PjUglish colonies in North 
 America, particularly those of Virginia and the Bermudas, of the largest of which 
 last, one of the eight divisions is still known by the name of Cavendish. His Lord- 
 ship became possessed of a larger fortune than his elder brother. He died in 1G2.5, 
 and was buried at Edensor, where an elegant Latin epitaph, inscribed on his tomb, 
 represents him as a " Man born to execute every laudable enterprise, and in the sim- 
 plicity of virtue, rather deserving than courting Glory." 
 
 The celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury is thus spoken of by Dugdale. She was 
 one of the daughters of John Hardwick, of Hardwick, co. Derby, esq. (sister and 
 co-heir to John her brother.) Her marriage with Sir \Villiam Cavendish, of (^hats- 
 worth, greatly conduced to the enlargement of the Cavendish property. " For," says 
 Dugdale, " being a person as well politick as faire and beautiful, in time she became 
 mistress of a very vast fortune, by her successful matching with several wealthy 1ms- 
 bands ; whereof the first was Robert liarlei/, of Barleij, in Com. Dcrh. esq. ; of whose 
 great affections to her she made such advantage, that, for lack of issue by her, he 
 settled a large inheritance in lands upon her self and her heirs ; which, by his deatii, 
 within a short time after, she fully enjoyed; and then became the wife of this Sir 
 Willinm Cavendish, by whom she had issue three sons ; Henry, Wi/litim and Charles ; 
 and three daughters; viz. Frances, married to Sir Henry Pierponf, knt. ; Elizabeth, 
 to Charles Stuart, Earl of Lenox ; and Mary, to Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. 
 
 " But the greatest access of riches was by this prudent lady afterwards acquired ; 
 for, surviving Sir William Cavendish, and, discerning her self still youthful and ami- 
 
 The following Monwnental Inscriptions in St. Tiolnlplt's church, Lnndon, are extracted from U'cci'er's 
 Funeral Monuments. 
 
 Hie jacet Katherina Cavendish quondam uxor Thomas Cavendish nuper de Cavendish, in Com. Suffolk , ar- 
 miser, quee ob- 15 die Sep. A. D. 149!), cujus animse rcquiescat in pace. 
 
 Hie jaeet AHcia nuper uxor Thomic Cavendish de C'avendisli etdo Scacearioexcellcntissimi Principis Domini 
 Henrici VIII. quae quidem obiit Vl Nov. A. D. 1.J15, cujus anima- propicictiir Altissimus. Amen. 
 
 Here lyeth buried under this stone Margaret Cavendish, late wife of William CnvcMuli>h, which William was 
 one of the sonnes of the above named Alice Cavendish, which Margaret died the Ib'tli day of June, in the jear 
 of our Lord God 1540, v?liose soul Jesu pardon, .\men. 
 
 Hcven blis be here mede 
 Vat for the sing, prey or rede. 
 F
 
 42 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 able, and likewise courted by many, sbe made choice of Sir ITilUam Sf. Lo, knight, 
 (though much superior to her in years) then Captain of the Guard to Queen E/i-~a- 
 heth, and possessor of divers faire 'lordships in Gloccstershire. A\'ith whom she made 
 such termes, in order to her marriage with him, as that she fixt the inheritance 
 thereof upon her self and her own heirs (for fault of issue by him) excluding his own 
 daughters and brothers. 
 
 ""whereupon, overliving him, and by that means gaining his whole estate; as 
 also discerninj, that George, Earl of Shrewsburi/ (at that time one of the greatest 
 Peers of this Realm) was captivated with her beauty ; she stood upon such termes 
 with him, that unless he would yield, that Gilbert,' then his second son, but after- 
 wards his heir, should take Jfari/, her daughter, to wife ; and that Hennj, her eldest 
 son, should marry the Lady Grace, his youngest daughter ; besides the setthng of a 
 lar<^e joynture in lands upon her self, he must not enjoy her. Unto aU which he con- 
 descending (and much more after) became her husband. "Whereupon, surviving 
 him, and abounding in riches, she built those noble houses of C/iats worth, Hard wick, 
 andOldcotes, aXlin Dcrbi/sli ire, which her great-grandson doth at this day enjoy : 
 and departing this life, is Febr. An. 1607. (5 Jac.) lyeth buried in the south isle 
 of -l///ia//oav« church, at Derbif, under a fair tombe. which in her own life-time she 
 took care to erect, for the honor of her memory. "NVhereupon is this Epitaph since 
 engraven. 
 
 P. 3f. 
 
 Elizabeths Johannis Hardwick de Hardwick, in agro Derb. armigeri, filice ; fra~ 
 triq ; Johanni tandem cohceredi prima Roberto Barley de Barley, in dicto corn. Derb. 
 armig nuptce : jxistea Will. Cavendish de Chatsworth equ. aur. ( Thexaurario Camerae 
 regibus Henrico octavo, Edoardo .ve.r^, ac yisiuse Reginw ; qitibus etiam fuit a secreti- 
 oribus consiliis : ) Deimle Wi]\. St. Low militi, Regii satellitij capitaneo : ac ultimo 
 prwnobili Georgio Comiti Salopise, desponsatue. Per quern "Will. Cavendish prolem 
 snlurnmodo habit it ; Filios tres, scilicet. Henricum Cavendish de Tutbury 2« ago 
 Stafif. armig. (qui Gi-acium, dicti Georgii Comitis Salopiae^/Zaw?, in uxorem duxit) 
 sine prole tegitima defunctum : \Villielmum, /« Baronem Cavendish de Hardwick, 
 nee nan in Comitem Devoniae, per serenissimum nuper Regem Jacobum evtctum, Et 
 Carolura Cavendish de AVelbeck equ. aur. patrem honoratissimi ^V'ill. Cavendish de 
 Bntneo militis, Buronis 0^\e Jure materno ; et in Vicecomitem Mansfeild, Comitem, 
 Marxhi'inem ac Ducem de I\^oro-caxtro super Tinam, et Comitem de Ogle merito cre~ 
 ati. Totidemq Jilias ; scilicet Franciescam Henrico Pierepont e(/u. aurato Elizabe- 
 tham, Carolo Stuarto Lenoxiije Comiti, et Mariam Gilberto Comiti Salopiie enuptas. 
 Hcpc inclitissima Elizabetha Salopise Comitissa, ^Edium de Chatsworth, Hardwick 
 et Oldcotes. magnificentia clarissimarum J'abricatrix. Vitam banc transitoriam xiii. 
 die mensis Februarii, Anno ab incarnatione Domini 1607, ac circa annum letatis suae 
 LXXXVIIJinivit ; et gloriosarn expectans Resurrectionem subtusjacet tumulata." 
 
 Of which t/ie following is a translation : 
 
 " To the memory of EUzabeth, the daughter of John Hardwicke, of Hardwicke, in 
 the county of Derby, esq. ; and at length co-heiress to her brother John. She was 
 married first to Robert Barley, of Barley, in the said county of Derby, esq. ; afterwards 
 to AMlliam Cavendish, of Chatsworth, knt. Treasurer of the Chamber to the kings 
 Henry A III. and Edward ^'I. and queen Mary, to whom he was also a privy coun- 
 cellor! She then became the wife of Sir AVilham St. Lo, captain of the royal guard. 
 Her last Imsband Avas the most noble George, C Talbot J Earl of Shrewsbury. By 
 Sir ^\'illiara Cavendish alone she had issue. This was three sons, namely, Henry 
 Cavendish, of Tutbury, in the county of Stafford, esq. ; who took to wife Grace, the 
 daughter of the said George, Earl of Shrewsbury, but died without legitimate issue; 
 A\ illiam, created Baron Cavendish of Hardwicke, and Earl of Devonshire, by his 
 late Majesty King James; and Charles Cavendish, of ^Velbeck, knt. father of the 
 most honourable ^rilliam Cavendish, Knight of the Bath, and Baron Ogle, by right 
 of his mother, and on account of his merit created Viscount ^Mansfield; Earl, Mar-
 
 CHATSWORTH. 43 
 
 quis, and Duke of Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; and Earl Ogle, of Ogle. Bhe had^ also 
 the same number of daughters, viz. Frances, married to Sir Henry Pierpoint ; Eliza- 
 beth, to Charles Stuart, Earl of Lenox ; and Mary, to Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. 
 This most illustrious Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, built the houses of Chats- 
 worth, Hardwicke and Oldcotes, highly distinguished by their magnificence, and 
 finished her transitory life on the 1.3th day of February, in the year 1 607, and about the 
 87th year of her age,* and expecting a glorious resurrection, lies interred underneath." 
 
 ARMS. — Hardwick impaling — " A'Mve, on a saltire, engrailed, 9 annulets, a cres- 
 cent for difference." 
 A quartered coat, viz. 
 
 1 — " Gules, a Lion rampant. Or, within a bordure, engrailed, of the second." 
 
 2 — "Azure, a Lion rampant, v/ithin a bordure. Or." 
 
 3 — " Bendy of 8, Azure and Gule.s." 
 
 4 — " Gules, 3 garbs within a double treasury. Or, cotized, of tbe second." 
 
 S — " Barry of ten pieces. Argent and Azure, an orle of martlets. Gules, 3, 2, 
 
 2, 2, 1." 
 6 — " Or, 3 inescutcheons vaire, charged with 3 barrulets. Gules." 
 7 — " Azure, 2 Lions passant, in pale, Gules." 
 
 8 — " Gules, a saltire and crescent, Arg-enf, on saltire a Gules." 
 
 9 — " ... bend, between 6 martlets. Gules." 
 10 — " ... Lion rampant. Gules." 
 11—" Or, a frette. Gules." 
 
 12 — " Or, 3 chevrons. Gules," impaling Hardwick and the following coat quar- 
 terly, " Argent, a fesse and 3 mullets in chief. Sable." f 
 
 The charities of this lady were extensive. She founded the Alms-houses in Full- 
 street, Derby, and drew up the regulations on which they still continue to be managed. 
 These she endowed out of her manor at Little Longsden. — The free-school at Hard- 
 wick is of her establishing. There are also other charitable institutions throughout 
 those parts of the county to which the Cavendish estates extend, that owe their origin 
 to this eminent woman. 
 
 Lodge, in his Illustrations of British History, gives the following character of this 
 celebrated lady. " She was a woman of masculine understanding and conduct, proud, 
 furious, selfish, and unfeeling. She was a builder, a buyer and seller of estates, a 
 money lender, a farmer, a merchant of lead, coals, and timber. "When disengaged 
 from these employments, she intrigued alternately with Elizabeth and Jilary, always 
 to the prejudice and terror of her husband. She lived to a great old age, continually 
 flattered, but seldom deceived, and died immensely rich, and without a friend. The 
 Earl was withdrawn by death from these complicated plagues, on the 1 8th of Nov. 
 1590." Li the disputes between the Countess and her husband, which had pro- 
 ceeded to an open rupture towards the latter part of his life, the Queen took the Lady's 
 part, enjoined the Earl the irksome task of submission, and allowed him a rent of 
 £'500. per annum out of his estate, leaving, as it appears, the whole disposal of the 
 remainder in the Countess's hands. In a letter to the Earl of Leicester, dated April 
 30, 1.585, he says, " Sith that her Ma'tie hathe sett dowen tliis hard sentence agaynst 
 me, to my perpetual infamy and dishonor, to be ruled and overanne by my wief, so 
 bad and wicked a woman; yet her Ma'tie shall see that I obey her com'andemente, 
 thoughe no curse or plage in the earthe cold be more grevous to me. These offers 
 of my wiefes inclosed in yo'r L'res, I thinke theim verey unfyt to be offered to me. 
 It is to muche to make me my wiefes pencyoner, and sett me downe the denieanes of 
 Chattesworth, without the house and other lands leased, which is but a penc'on in 
 money. I thinke it standeth with reason that I shuld chose the v c 1. by yeare or- 
 dered by her Ma'tie where I hke best, accordinge to the rate ^Vm. Candishe dely ver- 
 
 • If CuUins be correct in his statement, that she was fourteen wlien married to Ttchert BarU-i/, who died in 
 1533, her age must be here somewhat undtr-rated, and she must have been in her ninetieth year, even if her 
 first marriage had not been of twelve months' continuance. Li/sotis. page 116. 
 
 t Bassano's Church Notes in the Herald's College, London.
 
 44 
 
 CHATSWOllTH. 
 
 ed to my L. Chancelor." From this time they appear to have lived separate. The 
 Bishop oi:' Lichfield and Coven fri/ ( Oeerton) in a long letter, in which he labours to 
 bring about a reconciliation, appears to take the Lady's part, though he admits that 
 she was reported to be a shrew. *'' Some will say, (observes the Bishop) in y'r L. 
 behalie tho' tiie Countesse is a sharpe and bitter shrewe, and therefore lieke enough 
 to shorten y'r hefe if shee should kepe yow company : In deede my good Lo. 1 have 
 heard some say so ; but if shrewdnesse or sharpenesse may be a just cause of sep'a'con 
 betweene a man and wiefe, I thincke fewe men in Englande woulde keepe theire 
 wives longe ; for it is a com'on jeste, yet trewe in some sence, that there is but one 
 shrewe in all the worlde, and ev'y man hath her ; and so ev'y man might be ridd of 
 liis wiefe, that wold be rydd of a shrewe." 
 
 Sir Charles Cavendish, knt. third son of the first Earl of Devonshire, purchased 
 the fee of Bolsover castle, in 1613, of the crown ; and having rebuilt it, he made it 
 his residence, and died there two years after its completion. His son. Sir A\^illiam 
 Cavendish, knt. was created a baron of the realm in 18 James I. by the title of 
 Lord 0.i;le : he was subsequently made Viscount ^Mansfield, and on the 17th of 
 March, in the third year of the reign of Charles L his lordship was advanced to the 
 dignity of Baron Cavendish, of Bolsover, and Earl of Newcastle upon Tyne ; and 
 was appointed governor of prince Charles. In the beginning of the contest between 
 the King and Parliament, his lordship fortified and garrisoned the town of Newcastle, 
 Bolsover, &c. for his majesty's service. Ever active in the service of his sovereign, 
 his lordship obtained considerable advantages over the parliamentary troops at Gains- 
 borough, in Lincolnshire, and at Chesterfield, in this county, besides numerous im- 
 ])ortant successes at various places in Yorkshire ; particularly at Bradford, where he 
 discomfited the principal northern division of the enemy's forces, and took twenty- 
 two great guns, and many stands of colours. On account of this action, and his other 
 eminent services, he was, by letters patent, bearing date at Oxford, 27th October, 19 
 Car. L advanced to the dignity of Marquess of Newcastle ; and on the restoration of 
 Charles IL he was created Earl of Ogle, and Duke of Newcastle. His Grace was 
 distinguished by the epithet of the Loyal Duke of Newcastle, and was privy counsel- 
 lor to both the Charleses. He commenced the re-building of Nottingham castle when 
 he was 82 years old, and lived to see it raised one yard from the ground. The cost 
 amounted to X'11.,002. lis. l\d. He thrice entertained his majesty, Charles I. at a 
 cost little short of £20,000. After the restoration this nobleman retired to a country 
 life, and to the nursing of his wasted estates ; he repaired and even added to Bolso- 
 ver castle. In these retreats, in hospitality and s^^lendour, he passed 26 years, and 
 having, by virtue and temi)erance, attained the great age of 84., died full of honours 
 on the 25th of December, 1676. He was the author of several works, but his most 
 esteemed and best known performance is his Treatise on Horsemanship. His pecu- 
 niary losses during the civil war, were said to have amounted to the enormous sum of 
 £930,000.* His Grace was twice married. His first wife was Elizabeth, the daugh- 
 ter and sole heiress of William Bassett, of Blore, co. Stafford, and of Langley, co. 
 Derby (relict of the Hon. Henry Howard, third son of the Eai-1 of Suffolk antl Berk- 
 
 • The following is a rental of the Marquess of Newcastle's estates in this county, in 16^I. 
 
 £. s. d. 
 The barony of BoIsovct and Woodthorp ... 8^6 8 ] 1 
 
 The manor of Chesterfield 578 
 
 The manor of Barlow 796 17 G 
 
 TissiMRton 1.59 II 
 
 Drotifield 486 ]j 10 
 
 The manor of Brampton „ H2 4 8 
 
 Little Loiiwstone 87 2 
 
 The manor of Stoke „. 212 5 
 
 Birth hall and Peak Forest 151 8 
 
 The manor of Grjndlow 156 8 
 
 Carried forward £5596 18 11 
 
 £. .». rf. 
 
 Brought forward 3."9(; 18 11 
 
 Themanor of Hucklow lt;2 10 8 
 
 The manor of Hiackwall 506 4 
 
 Buxton and Tidshall 155 2 
 
 Mansfield Park 100 
 
 Mappleton and Thorp '.'07 5 
 
 The manor of Windley-hill '.'5N 18 
 
 The manor of Litchiirch and Mackworth... 715 15 1 
 
 Cliurch and Meynell Langley manor S50 1 
 
 £6128 11 
 
 The Duchess's Life of the Duke, page 97. states the amount of all his estates at that time to be £:-2,395. of 
 which £6,229. lay in the county of Nottinghana ; and £2.519. in the county of Stafford.
 
 CHATSWORTH. 45 
 
 shire) by whom he had issue, four sons and three daughters. His second was Mar- 
 garet, daughter of Sir Charles Lucas, one of the maids of lion our to Henrietta, queen 
 of England, whom she accompanied to Paris (hiring the troubles in tliis country, and 
 there the Earl of Newcastle espoused her in 1645. She died three years before her 
 illustrious consort, leaving among her works as an authoress many volumes of Poems 
 and Plays, and the Life of the noble Duke. 
 
 The second Earl of Devonshire was the second son of the first Earl. His lordship 
 was distinguished for his classical knowledge and mental attainments. He was a 
 great speaker in both houses of Parliament, where he Avas beloved and admired. He 
 also upheld the dignity of his family in all public transactions, in which he was 
 deeply engaged during his short life, which terminated in 1(528. He travelled 
 through France and Italy, with the celebrated philosopher Hobbes for his tutor, to 
 whom, during his own life, he continued his friendship and patronage. 
 
 His Lordship espoused Christiana, daughter of Edward, Lord Bruce, of Kinloss, 
 and sister to Thomas, Earl of Elgin, descended from the Kings of Scotland. This 
 lady was respected for her address and judgment as Avell as her economy and resolu- 
 tion. Being left a widow at an early period of her life, with three children, the 
 eldest of whom had not attained the age of eleven, and with the immense estates of 
 the family greatly encumbered by the splendid style in which the Earl had hved, 
 she, by her good management during the minority of the young Earl, paid off the 
 debts and terminated many expensive law-suits. She committed the education of 
 the youthful peer to the friend and tutor of his father, and Mr. Hobbes privately in- 
 structed him at his own house for three years, and travelled into foreign parts with 
 him three years more. On their return, the aged philosopher was maintained by the 
 Devonshire family in ease and plenty until his death, which did not happen before 
 his 92nd year. — During the civil war between the unfortunate Charles L and the 
 Parliament, the Earl of Devonshire went abroad, and his estates were sequestrated. 
 The Countess dowager was held in great estimation by leacUng persons of both par- 
 ties, but she never remitted her endeavours to serve the royal cause, even when all 
 expectations of success in the field had terminated. AVhile she resided at Latimers, 
 a seat belonging to the family, in Buckinghamshire, the king was brought thither 
 prisoner, and was for two nights entertained by her and her son. So steadfast was 
 she in the cause of the king, that the politic General Monk sent her, by a consider- 
 able officer, a private signal by which she might know his intentions of restoring the 
 monarchy. After a long life spent in acts of hospitality and charity, and still with 
 splendour and magnificence, this eminent lady departed this life in the year 1674, 
 and was buried at Derby. 
 
 Charles Cavendish, esq. a younger brother of the Earl of Devonshire, distinguished 
 himself as a loyal and brave subject on the behalf of his King during the rebellion, 
 in which, after performing many gallant exploits, he perished fighting nobly near 
 Gainsborough, in 1642-3. Cromwell was in this engagement, and boasted not a little 
 of the advantage he had gained on this occasion. He was buried first at Newark, 
 and afterwards removed to Derby. 
 
 " Colonel Cavendish was the son of AFilliam, Earl of Devonshire, and a person of 
 such a manly figure, winning presence, polite arts, and personal courage, that he was 
 the love and admiration of all that conversed with him and beheld him ; insonmch, 
 that when he was brought into this town [^Newark^ to be interred, the people would 
 not suffer him to be buried, till for some days they had viewed his bocly with their 
 eyes, and embalmed it with their tears. ^Vhen his body was removed to Derby, 
 thirty years after, fresh lamentations were made for him by all that knew him, so 
 unwilling were they to jtart with the reliques of a person who, while living, had been 
 the ornament and defence both of the town and country round about." Anon, Hist. 
 of Notts. 1742. 
 
 The third Earl of Devonshire was not backward in testifying the loyalty which 
 was so distinguished in his parents, and opposed every approach to the rebellion, 
 which afterwards broke out and destroyed the monarchy. He withdrew from Eng- 
 land when his services could be of no avail ; and although he suffered nuich for his
 
 46 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 loyalty, yet he never engaged in ])ublic business or sought employment at court- 
 Nevertheless, he enjoyed the confidence of his majesty, Charles the J>econd, until his 
 death, which took p'.ace at lloehanipton, in IGSi, when he was succeeded by his 
 eldest son, then in his -l-4th year; an illustrious patriot and enterprising statesman. 
 
 Tlie fourth Earl and first Duke, after a regular course of studies, made the tour 
 of Europe, attended by Dr. Killigrew, who Avas subsequently master of the Savoy. 
 He sat in the long parliament, inmiediately after the Restoration, as member for the 
 county of Derby. During the Dutch wars he attended the Duke of York, and was 
 present at that memorable engagement, on the 3rd of June, 1665, when the Hol- 
 landers lost two and thirty ships of war. Four years afterwards, he accompanied 
 Mr. Montague in his embassy to the court of France, and during his residence at 
 the capital of that kingdom, he distinguished himself by his personal courage. As 
 a member of the House of Commons, he was a strenuous as^serter of the rights of 
 Parliament : he had an honest heart, an able head, and a great fluency of expression. 
 He remained a member of the Commons House of Parliament until the death of his 
 father. So attached was he to that estimable and interesting patriot. Lord Russel, 
 that he sent a message to him by Sir James Forbes, declaring that he would come to 
 his prison and exchange clothes with him in order to effect, if possible, his escape. 
 A nobleman of such principles was not likely to contemplate with satisfaction, the 
 accession of a prince like the Duke of York, bigoted to the dominion of a foreign 
 priesthood and insisting upon the divine right of the crown. The noble Earl was, 
 accordingly, a determined advocate for the Bill of exclusion, and by this and other 
 public acts incurred the hatred of the mis-directed monarch, James II. It is stated 
 that soon after the accession of that prince, his lordship, having in the king's presence 
 chamber met with Colonel Colepepper, by whom he had been insulted, took him by 
 the nose and led him out of the room. For this action, a prosecution was commenced 
 in the court of King's Bench, and his lordship was condemned to pay a fine of 
 £30,000. and was committed to prison. On his making his escape, a precept was 
 directed to the sheriff of Derbyshire, to raise the posse coiititatus and to take the Earl 
 prisoner to London. The Countess Dowager offered to deliver up to the king bonds 
 and acknowledgments to the amount of double the fine, which her ladyship held for 
 money lent by the Earl's father and grandfather to the Royal Family in their deepest 
 distress ; but this offer was rejected. The Earl Avas at length induced to give his 
 bond for the £30,000. This bond was found among the papers of James after his 
 abdication, and returned to the Earl by King ^ViUiam. After this affair, until his 
 Lordship's attention was again called to the great political events of the Revolution, 
 he employed himself in consultations with architects and with their plans for the 
 magnificent edifice of modern Chatsworth, exemplifying the richness of his taste by 
 devising and collecting ornaments for that beautiful structure. The conduct of the 
 King had, in the mean time, alarmed and disgusted his subjects, and the Earl of 
 Devonshire took the lead with other eminent patriots in inviting over the Prince and 
 Princess of Orange, to whom he pledged his support throughout their noble purpose 
 of delivering the nation from the tyranny, civil and ecclesiastical, under which it was 
 suffering. 
 
 As soon as his Lordship received intelligence of the Prince's landing, he marched 
 at the head of his retinue to Derby, where many of the principal noblemen and gen- 
 tlemen of that and the neighbouring counties, resorted at his Lordship's invitation, 
 and were nobly entertained by him. Having received the Prince's declaration, he 
 read and explained it to the mayor and commonalty of Derby, and then produced a 
 paper drawn up by himself, and signed by the nobility and gentry with him, in which 
 they declared, that if the King should refuse to consent to the meeting and sitting of 
 a Parliament, freely and duly chosen, they would, to the utmost, defend the Protes- 
 tant religion, the laws of the kingdom, and the rights and liberties of the people. 
 Not long after a new declaration was drawn up at Nottingham, which, after enu- 
 merating the various illegal acts and arbitrary proceedings of the King and his min- 
 isters, and making proper observations upon them, concluded with signifying the 
 intention of his Lordship and his friends to join the Prince of Orange. In conse-
 
 CHATSWORTH. 47 
 
 quence of this a regiment of horse was formed, under the command of the Earl of 
 Devonshire, who, from that time forward, exerted himself with the utmost zeal and 
 spirit, in the cause of the Revolution. 
 
 Soon after the accession of \riiliam and his Queen, his lordship was admitted into 
 the Privy Council, and made Lord Steward of the household. He was also appointed 
 Lord Lieutenant of Derbyshire, and created Knight of the Garter. It reflects the 
 highest honour on his memory, that while he displayed an abhorrence of Popery, he 
 was too conscientious a friend to religious liberty, to entertain the most distant idea 
 of persecution ; and he sometimes fearlessly reminded King "William, that he came 
 over, not to persecute the Papists, but to defend the Protestants. The Earl attended 
 King William to the Congress of the princes of Germany, held at the Hague, in 
 January, 1690, and was in the shallop or royal yacht with him, when he and all his 
 attendants were in the most imminent danger of perishing. When the congress met, 
 few of the sovereign princes who assisted at its deliberations, equalled the P^arl in the 
 magnificence of his furniture and plate, and the splendour of his entertainments. 
 In May, 1694, his Lordship was created Marquess of Ilartington and Duke of 
 Devonshire. In the preamble to the patent, their Majesties expatiate in his praise, 
 and acknowledge how much they were indebted to his assistance in restoring the an- 
 cient rights and liberties of the nation. Repeatedly during the absence of the King, 
 his Grace was named in the Royal Commission for conducting the business of the 
 Crown ; and on the accession of Queen Anne, he retained the favour of that princess. 
 It was chiefly owing to the Duke of Devonshire, that the bill against occasional con- 
 formity (which was, in fact, a bill tending to abolish all freedom in religious matters, 
 and would have been a disgrace to a free country) miscarried in the House of Lords. 
 His Grace was nominated one of the commissioners to treat with the connnissioners 
 of Scotland concerning a union between the two kingdoms ; and when, after the mis- 
 carriage of the first negociation, tlie design was resumed in 1706, both the Duke and 
 his eldest son, the Marquess of Hartington, were put into the commission. In the 
 celebrated case of Ashby and White, which concerned the rights of electors and im- 
 plicated the dignity of both Houses of Parliament, His Grace distinguished himself 
 by his public spirited declarations in the House of Lords, while his son, the Mar- 
 quess, did the same in the Commons. His Grace was also one of the sixty-one peers 
 in a majority against thirty, who, upon a division, after long and violent debates 
 relative to the danger of the church, resolved, that " the Church of England is now, 
 by God's blessing, in a most safe and flourishing condition, and that, -whoever goes 
 about to insinuate that the Church is in danger under her ]\Iajesty's administration, 
 is an enemy to the Queen, the Church and the Kingdom." — After an active political 
 life spent in promoting the civil and religious liberties of the country, this patriotic 
 nobleman expired at Devonshire House, in Piccadilly, London, in the 67th year of 
 his age, in 1707. His Grace united to a liberal mind, great political foresight, and 
 was considered a wise and resolute statesman. He possessed an elegant and dis- 
 criminating taste, which he had much enriched by observation and reading. Chats- 
 worth remains as a monument of his love of the fine arts, and the Revolution of 1688 
 is an historical proof of his ardent attachment to the liberties of his country. He 
 was the author of an ode on the Death of Queen Mary, and a work entitled an Allu- 
 sion to the Bishop of Cambray's Supplement to Homer. The following inscription 
 is said to have been left by his Grace to be inscribed upon his monument : 
 
 Oulielmus, Dux Devonia;, Willinm, Duke of Devonshire, 
 
 Bonoruin Principium subilitus fidelis, A faithful subject to good Sovereigns, 
 
 Inimicus et invis us Tyranuis. Inimical and hateful to 'I'yrants. 
 
 "WiUiam, the second Duke of Devonshire, succeeded his father not only in his 
 titles and estates, but likewise in his places and trusts. AV'hile a Commoner he 
 served as Knight of the Shire for Derbyshire in the Parliaments of 1695, 1698, and 
 1700 ; and for Yorkshire in 1702, 1705, and 1707. AVhile Marquess of Ilartington 
 he was constituted Captain of the Yeomanry of the Guard; 6th September, 1707,
 
 48 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 declareil Lord Steward of the Household ; 8th September swom of the Privy Coun- 
 cil; '29th October following, Justice in Eyre, north of Trent, and also Lord Lieu- 
 tenant of the county of Derby. May 10th, 1708, again sworn of the Privy Coun- 
 cil ; in 1710 he resigned his places, but having been elected Knight of the Garter 
 he was installed the same year. On the accession of George L he was nominated one 
 of the Regents of the Kingdom, declared Lord Steward of the King's Household, 
 and swornof the Privy Council. On 5th July, 1716, he resigned the office of Lord 
 Steward, and the next day was declared Lord President of the Council, which he 
 resigned in April, 1717. In 1720 His Grace was again declared one of the Justices 
 of the Kingdom; in 1725, Lord President of the Council ; and in May, 1727, a fifth 
 time declared one of the Lords Justices ; the same year His Grace was reappointed 
 Lord Lieutenant of the county of Derby ; 4th October, Lord President of the Coun- 
 cil; and, 17th November, one of the Governors of the Charter House. He died 
 in London, 3rd June, 1729, and was interred with his ancestors at Derby the l-tlh 
 of the same month. His Grace married Rachel, the daughter of ^Viliiam Lord 
 Russel, and sister of 'Wriothesley, Duke of Bedford, and by her had issue, five 
 sons and six daughters. 
 
 "\MUiam, the third Duke of Devonshire, born in 1698, like his predecessors had a 
 considerable share in the administration of the pubhc affairs of the kingdom. He 
 served in Parliament whilst a Commoner for the boroughs of Lostwithiel and Gram- 
 pound, and for the county of Huntingdon. In 1726 he was constituted Captain of 
 the Band of Gentlemen Pensioners; succeeding his father in his honours. His Grace 
 was ajjpointed Lord Lieutenant of the county of Derby, and sworn of tlie Privy 
 Council; and 12th June, 1731, declared Lord Keeper of the Privy Seal. In 1733, 
 His Grace was Lord Steward of the Household, and installed Knight of the Garter 
 22nd of August in the same year. He was declared Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 
 31st of ]\Iarch, 1737, which office he held until the 3rd of January, 174.1., when he 
 was again made Lord Steward of the Household during his ]\Iajesty's absence from 
 the Kingdom. His Grace was one of the Lords Justices in 17-1.1, 1743, 1745, and 
 1748, and continued Lord Steward of the Household until June, 1749, when he re- 
 signed that office. Towards the end of his life, His Grace reUnquished all pubhc 
 business and retired to Chatsworth, where he died, 5th December, 1755, and was 
 buried with his ancestors at Derby, the 17th of the same month. His Grace married 
 the only daughter and heiress of John Hoskins, of the county of Middlesex, esq. and 
 had issue, four sons and three daughters. 
 
 Lord James Cavendish, the third son of the second Duke, was in 1 730, Colonel 
 and Captain in the 3rd regiment of Foot Guards ; in 1738, made Colonel of the 34th 
 regiment of Foot; Member of ParHament for Malton ; died 5th November, 1741, 
 and buried at Derby on the 14th of the same month. 
 
 Lord Charles Cavendish, the fourth son, was M. P. for Heytsbui'y, in Wiltshire, 
 in 1725 ; in 1727, for the city of A\^estminster ; in 1728, Gentleman of the Bedcham- 
 ber to the Prince of "Wales; and in 1734, chosen M. P. for the county of Derby. 
 He died 28th of April, 1783, and was buried at Derby on the 7th of May following. 
 AViUiam, the fourth Duke of Devonshire, born in 1720, was at the general election 
 in 1747, M. P. for the county of Derby. On the 13th of June, 1751, he was called 
 up to the House of Lords, in the lifetime of his father, and took his seat there as 
 Baron Cavendish, of Hardwick, with precedency, according to the Patent granted to 
 his ancestor, on the 4th of May, 1605. He was appointed Alaster of the Horse, 30th 
 March, 1752, and three days afterwards sworn of the Privy Council. He was ap- 
 pointed one of the Lords of the Regency in January, 1754; constituted Governor of 
 the county of York, in Ireland, in the February following ; Lord High Treasurer of 
 that Kingdom in the place of the last Earl of Burlington, 27th of March, 1755; 
 Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 16th November, 1756 ; First Commissioner of the 
 Treasury, 15th of December in the same year; Lord Lieutenant of the county of 
 Derby and Knight of the Garter in 1757. In May, 1757, His Grace was appointed 
 Chamberlain of the Household, (having first resigned his seat at the Treasury Board) 
 upon the death of the Duke of Grafton, in wliich station he assisted at the coronation
 
 CHATSWOKTH. 49 
 
 of George III. In 1762, he resigned all his employments in England depending on 
 the crown, being disgusted, as it was said, at the high degree of favour and influei-.ce 
 possessed by the Earl of Bute. His Grace married, 2Sth March, 1 7 48, Cliarlotte, 
 the third daughter and at length heiress of Ilicliard, Earl of Burlington and Cork, 
 by which union the Barony of Clifford, created by ArHt of Charles I. in lti2S, caine 
 into this family. By this marriage His Grace had issue, tliree sons and one liaughtor. 
 His Grace died at the German Spa, whither he had gone for the recovery of his health, 
 3rd of October, 1764, and was buried at Derby 2 1-th of the same month. 
 
 Lord George Augustus, brother of the fourth Duke, was appointed in October, 
 1761, Comptroller of the Household ; and in 1762, sworn of t!ie Privy Council. He 
 died unmarried, and was buried at Ilolker, in the county of Lancaster, in 1T94.. 
 
 Lord Frederick Cavendish, third son of the tliird Duke of Devonshire, rose to the 
 rank of Field Marshal, and was taken prisoner at the battle of St. Cas, in 1758, but 
 was afterwards allowed to return home on his parole. 
 
 Lord John Cavendish, fourth son of the third Duke of Devonshire, was distin- 
 guished as the friend of Lord llockinghaiu and the opponent of Lord North. He 
 was twice Chancellor of the Excliequer, many years Member of Parhament for the 
 county of Derby, and died in 1796. 
 
 Lady Caroline married ^\'illiam Ponsonby, Lord Viscount Duncannon, son and 
 heir of Brabazon, Earl of Bcsborough. 
 
 The Hon. Henry Cavendish, son of Lord Charles Cavendish, nephew to the third 
 Duke of Devonshire, and great-uncle to the j-.resent Duke of Devonshire, died on the 
 24th of February, 1810, at his house at Ciapham. His remains were rejnoved from 
 thence to be privately interred in the family vault, in All Siints' churdi, Derbv. 
 This gentleman had rendered himself familiarly convevsar.t with every part of Sir 
 Issac Newton's philosophy : the principles of which he applied, nearly fifty years ago, 
 to an investigation of the laws on whicli the phenomena of electricity depend. Pur- 
 suing the same science, on the occasion of i\lr. AV'alsh's experiment with the torpedo, 
 he gave a satisfactory explanation of tlie remarkable powers of electrical fishes ; point- 
 ing out that distinction between common and animal electricity, which has s'nce been 
 amply confirmed by the brilliant discoveries in galvanism. Having turned his atten- 
 tion very early to pneumatic chemistry, he ascertained, in 1766, the extreme levity 
 of inflammable air, now called hydrogen gas. On this discovery, many curious experi- 
 ments, and particularly that of aerial navigation, liave been founded. In the same 
 path of science, lu* made the important iliscovery of the composition of water by the 
 union of two airs ; and thus laid the foundation of tlie modern system of chemistry, 
 which rests principally on this fact, and that of the decomposition of water, announced 
 soon afterwards, by M. Lavoisier. As the purity of atmospherical air had been a 
 subject of controversy, Mr. Cavendish contrived es-sential improvements in the method 
 of performing experiments with an eudiometer ; by means of which, he was the first 
 who showed that the proportion of pure air in the atmosphere is nearly the same in 
 all open places. The other and nnicli larger portion of our atmosphere, he sagacious- 
 ly conjectured to be the basis of the acid of nitre ; an opinion that he soon brought to 
 the test by an ingenious and laborious experiment, which completely proved its truth ; 
 whence this air has now very generally obtained the name of nitrogen. So many 
 and such important discoveries spread his fame througliout Europe, and lie was uni- 
 versally considered as one of the first philosophers of tl-.e age. Among the labours of 
 his later days, is the nice and difficult experiment by which he determined the mean 
 density of the earth; an element of const quence in deUcate calculation of aj-tronomy, 
 as well as in geological enquiries. Even in the last year of his life, at the advanced 
 age of seventy-seven, he proposed and described improvements in the manner of di- 
 viding large astronomical instruments ; which, though not yet executed, promise very 
 great advantages, 'i'hcse pursuits, together with reacUng of various kinds, by which 
 he acquired a deep insight into almost every topic of general knowledge, formed the 
 whole occupation of his life, and were, in fact, his sole anmsement. The love of 
 truth was sutticient to fill his mind. From his attachment to such occupations, and 
 the constant resource he found in them, together with a shyness and chffidcncc natu-
 
 50 CHATSWOHTH. 
 
 ral to his disposition, his early habits had been secluded. His manners were mild, 
 his mind firm, his nature benevolent and complacent. He was liberal without being 
 profuse, and charitable without ostentation. lie possessed great affluence, which was 
 to him rather a matter of embarrassment than of gratification ; but, however careless 
 about its improvement, he was regular in its management and direction. He v/as 
 born Oct. 10, 1731, and died in 1810, at the age of 79, leaving the greatest sum in 
 funded property which perhaps any person ever possessed, amounting to £1,200,000. 
 His writings on subjects of science appeared in the Philosop. Trans, of 1766 and sub- 
 sequent years. The stamp-duty upon Mr. Cavendish's will amounted to X'42,000. 
 
 M^illiam, the fifth Duke of Devonshire, born 14th December, 1748, maintained 
 the independent spirit of his father, and held no public situations under the crown 
 except the Lord Lieutenancy for the county of Derby, which is an office almost 
 necessarily attached to the extensive possessions of the family in the county. His 
 Grace married in 1774, Georgiana, daughter of John Earl Spencer, of Althorpe, in 
 the county of Northampton, who died 30th March, 1806, by whom he had William 
 Spencer, born in Paris 21st of May, 1790; and two daughters, Georgiana, born 
 12th July, 1783, married 21st March, 1801, George, Earl of Carlisle; and Hen- 
 rietta Elizabeth, born 12th of August, 1785, married 24th December, 1809, Lord 
 Viscount Granville. His Grace married again, 19th October, 1809, to Lady Eliza- 
 beth Foster, relict of John Thomas Foster, esq. of the county of Louth, L-eland, and 
 daughter of the late Earl of Bristol ; and died in London, 29th July, 181 1, aged 63, 
 and was laid in the family vault with his forefathers, in All Saints' churcli, Derby. 
 
 Lord George Augustus Frederick Cavendish, third son of the fourth Duke, has been 
 Member of Parliament for the borough and county of Derby more than half a century, 
 and has ever distinguished himself by his free and independent attachment to the 
 liberties of the people. He succeeded his uncle, Lord John Cavendish, who died in 
 December, 1796, as representative in Parliament for the County of Derby. His 
 Lordship's eldest son was unfortunately killed by a fall from his carriage about 18 
 years ago, leaving three children ; of whom the eldest, Mr. William Cavendish, 
 after having attained the highest academical honours at Cambridge, was, in testi- 
 mony of his capacity and acquirements, chosen Member of Parliament for that Uni- 
 versity in the year 1829 ; and soon afterwards espoused Lady Blanche Howard, 
 daughter of the Earl of Carlisle. Colonel Cavendish, third son of Lord George Cav- 
 endish, has been many years Member of Parliament for the borough of Derby. 
 
 The present illustrious possessor of the Dukedom is His Grace 'W^illiam Spencer, 
 the sixth Duke and the ninth Earl of Devonshire. Endowed with a mind liberal 
 and comprehensive, His Grace has devoted his princely revenues to the patronage 
 of the fine arts, to the encouragement of literature, and to that splendid yet ju- 
 dicious style of living that renders the luxuries and embellishments of society the 
 channels of public benefit. His establishment is numerous and elegant as becomes 
 his rank, and his entertainments bespeak at once his magnificence, his taste and 
 his benevolence. Among his dependants and his tenantry, an affectionate attach- 
 ment to His Grace is every where apparent, and in the public estimation no noble- 
 man of the present day stands more secure. His Grace has not taken any pro- 
 minent position in the conduct of public affairs, but whenever important occurrences 
 have demanded his attention, he has ever been found in liis place in the House of 
 Peers, or offering his patriotic counsels to his Sovereign. On all occasions when his 
 sentiments have been called forth, they have been found to be those of a clear-minded 
 philanthropic statesman, earnest rather than ardent, having for their object the prac- 
 tical blessings of national liberty and gi-eatness. Enjoying the personal esteem and 
 friendship of the late King, His Grace has never permitted the tenor of his political 
 principles to swerve from that high and hereditary determination which influenced 
 his illustrious ancestor at the period of the B.evolution of 1688, to vindicate the claims 
 of civil and religious liberty ; and, hence, with sincere and grateful attachment to 
 the Sovereign, His Grace on his taking his seat in the Upper House, hesitated not to 
 oppose the measures of those servants of the Crown, who, at that period, seemed to 
 endeavour rather to stifle than to alleviate the complaints of a distressed people. On
 
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 r
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 SI 
 
 every occasion His Grace was found on the side of humanity, justice, and popular 
 rights ; and even when, in one great and particular instance, the sensibilities of the 
 Sovereign himself were excited, the noble Duke fearlessly espoused the cause of the 
 insulted and the persecuted, with that intrepidity of rectitude which secures admiration 
 even in the quarter where it seems most to offend. Such generous conduct abated 
 not the favour and regard of his Majesty towards his Grace, and, on the accession of 
 the Emperor Nicholas to the throne of Russia, the noble Duke was nominated to the 
 embassy of congratulation from the British court to the court of St. Petersburg. 
 The splendour and magnificence displayed by his Grace on this occasion combined 
 costliness with elegance, and surpassed as well in taste as in dignity all previous 
 embassies of a similar character. His Grace was received not only with royal favour 
 but with the intimacy of princely friendship by the new Emperor, and invested by 
 him with the highest order of Russian Knighthood. — On the return of his Grace to 
 England, he was distinguished by the favour and confidence of George IV. ; and the 
 sudden illness of the Earl of Liverpool rendering a change in the administration 
 necesssary, his Grace was nominated to select, conciliate and arrange a ministry, in 
 the formation of which all the remains of party spirit might be lost in a general 
 devotion of the members to the interests of the public. The period was favourable 
 for the dissolution of all party distinction, and although fatal and unforeseen events 
 have diminished, in some degree, the effect of the noble Duke's patriotic eflbrts, still 
 the measures of the state council have taken a more liberal direction and have had a 
 more decided tendency to those principles of civil and religious liberty which it has 
 ever been the object of the illustrious Duke and his ancestors to promote. His Grace 
 is Lord Lieutenant and Gustos Rotuloruin of the County of Derby ; High Steward of 
 the Borough of Derby ; Lessee under the Crown of the mineral duties in the High 
 Peak ; Lord of the following manors, and patron of the under named church livings 
 in the county of Derby. 
 
 The Duke of Devonshire's Estate and Interests in the County of Derby. 
 
 Ashford-in-the- Water 
 
 Astwitli in Hucknall , 
 
 Bakewell 
 
 Baslow 
 
 Bteley 
 
 Black wall in the Peak 
 
 Blackwell 
 
 Bowden Edf;e \ 
 
 Bradshaw Edge J- 
 
 Bradweli J 
 
 Brampton wood 
 
 Bruunti and Shatton 
 
 Brushfield 
 
 Buxtim, owner of the\ 
 greater ])artof ihetown / 
 
 Callenge Low 
 
 Chaddesdcn 
 
 Cha))el-en-le-Frith and \ 
 
 townships j 
 
 Chatsworlh 
 
 Chelmorton 
 
 Chesterfield 
 
 Chinley, Bugsworth and> 
 
 Brownside j 
 
 Chureh Broiighton 
 
 Clown 
 
 Coomb's Edge 
 
 Codrington 
 
 Cutthorpe 
 
 Derwent 
 
 Dore 
 
 Edale 
 
 Edensor 
 
 Eyam Woodlands. 
 
 Fairfield 
 
 Fernilee 
 
 a. r. p. 
 
 1701 -2 5 
 
 402 57 
 
 47 1 12 
 
 5202 2 15" 
 
 1102 58 
 
 882 5 
 
 200 
 
 6t;0 2 8 
 
 1000 
 
 515 1 14 
 
 2y0 2 59 
 
 ( Owner of eonsid-) 
 (.erablepioptrty... / 
 
 C.)9 29 
 151 55 
 
 1510 1 
 1261 2 27 
 1907 1 10 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Joint Lord of the Manor. 
 
 ) Lessee of the Manor 
 j under the Crown. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 f Lessee of the Manor 
 
 (.under the Crown. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor 
 under the Crown. 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Djtto. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Patron of the Living. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 
 Patron of the Living. 
 
 Patron of the Living. 
 Patron of the Living.
 
 52 
 
 CHATSWORTH. 
 
 Flags 
 
 Foolow 
 
 Great Hamlet, Phoside") 
 
 and Kinder / 
 
 Great Longstone 
 
 Hathersage 
 
 Haiton 
 
 Hardwick Park 
 
 Hardstoft 
 
 Hault Hucknall 
 
 Hasland 
 
 Houshton Bassett 
 
 Harting'on 
 
 Havficld 
 
 Hazlebach 
 
 Heath 
 
 Highlow 
 
 Hilton 
 
 Hope Woodlands 
 
 Little Cliester | 
 
 Little Eaton 
 
 Little Longstone 
 
 Marstou-on-Dove 
 
 Meadow Place 
 
 Mickleover 
 
 Newbold and Duustan.^... 
 
 Oakerthorpe 
 
 Offerton 
 
 One Ash 
 
 Oxcroft 
 
 Peak Forest 
 
 Pentrich 
 
 Pilsley 
 
 Quamdon ^ 
 
 Ripley 
 
 Rowthorn 
 
 Scropton 
 
 Sheldon 
 
 Shottle and Postern 
 
 Stainsby ....- 
 
 Staveley 
 
 8toney Middleton 
 
 Stoney Houghton 
 
 Tibshelf 
 
 Tideswell 
 
 Wardlow Miers 
 
 Whitle 
 
 Woodthorpe 
 
 Woods on the above es- (_ 
 tateSj about i 
 
 256 17 
 621 35 
 
 1527 5 13 
 
 13,216 20 
 
 "996" h'o' 
 
 248 2 " 7 
 
 19,253 2 25 
 
 168 1 5 
 
 130 3 24 
 
 909 
 727 
 C4 
 
 1 7 
 3 11 
 3 2 
 
 246 
 
 2 23 
 
 809 
 
 2 23 
 
 4.58 
 
 32 
 
 1907 
 
 3 20 
 
 1450 
 
 2 11 
 
 493 
 
 16 
 
 
 989 
 
 
 
 lO 
 
 10 
 
 808 
 
 1 31 
 
 3651 
 
 1 57 
 
 1162 
 
 1 27 
 
 5570 
 
 5 
 
 415 25 
 359 1 25 
 990 2 37 
 
 622 1 12 
 
 5000 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lord of the .Manor. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 ( Lessee of the Manor un- 
 
 i der the Dean of Lincoln. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto, under the Crown. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the .Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Lord of the .Manor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 Lessee of the Manor. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 /"Besides valuable mines 
 
 J. of ironstone, lead ore, 
 
 (.coal, &c. 
 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 
 Extra Parochial. 
 Patron of the Vicarage. 
 
 Patron of the Living. 
 
 Patron of the Rectory.
 
 53 
 
 EDENSOR. 
 
 EDENSOR, a small rural village, township, constablery, and parish in the hun- 
 
 Etinesoure, jred and deanery of High Peak, 3 m. N. of Rowsley, and 3 rn. east 
 
 from iJakewell, which is the post town. The parish includes the hamlet of Pilsley. 
 
 The township of Edensor contained in 1821, 80 houses, 95 families, and 509 in- 
 habitants. The hamlet of Pilsley 43 houses, 45 families, and 243 inhabitants. Of 
 the 95 families in Edensor, 52 were chiefly employed in agriculture, 25 in trade, and 
 18 variously. Of the 45 famihes in Pilsley, 30 were chiefly employed in agriculture, 
 9 in trade, and 6 variously. 
 
 The township of J^densor consists of 1907 a. 1 r. 10 p. of gritstone land, belonging 
 to the Duke of Devonshire, except 6 a. 3 r. 13 p. the property of one freeholder. 
 The land is chiefly meadow and pasture, except 287 acres of wood, divided into farms 
 of 150 acres down to small takes of 10 acres, at an average rental of 20*. per acre. 
 The tithes belong to the Duke of Devonshire, and are collected with the rent. The 
 estimated annual value of all the buildings and land is X'3100. lOs. The average of 
 seven years parochial expenses, including church, poor, and county rates, and con- 
 stables' accounts, is £330. and the highways about £100. per annum. The parish- 
 ioners send their paupers to Ashover house of industry, to which they contribute. 
 There is one friendly society, consisting of 140 members, who have a stock of £700. ; 
 one endowed free-school, and one inn in the township. 
 
 The manor of i^densor was in the reign of Edward the Confessor the joint property 
 of Levenot and Chetel ; when the Survey of Doomsday was taken, it belonged to 
 Henry de Ferrers. The mesne seigniory was for several generations at a remote pe- 
 riod, vested in the ancestors of the Shirley family. The immediate possession ap- 
 pears to have been in the Foljambes, whose heiress brought Etlensor to Sir Robert 
 Plumpton. Sir AVilliam Plumpton, grandson to Sir Robert, died seised of it in 1480. 
 His daughters and co-heirs married Sotehill and Roclifl^e. A moiety of this manor 
 passed by marriage to the Cliffords, and was sold by George Clifford, Earl of Cum- 
 berland, to the Countess of Shrewsbury. Sir Ralph Langford, who it is probable pur- 
 chased of the Sotehills or their heirs, died seised of the other moiety in 1513. The 
 whole is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. The manor of Pilsley has 
 passed with that of Edensor. 
 
 The handsome gothic church, with a tower surmounted with pinnacles, is dedica- 
 ted to St. Peter. This church stands on the side of a hill in the upper part of the 
 village, and is surrounded by a spacious church-yard: within, it is clean and neat, 
 and its appearance altogether intimates its proximity to the residence of a noble 
 family. It was given by Fulcher, ancestor of the Shirleys, to the monastery of Ro- 
 cester, in Staffordshire, at an early period. The living, a donative, is valued in the 
 king's books at £4. 13a-. 4^/. and yearly tenths 9s. 4f/. The Duke of Devonshire is 
 impropriator of the tithes and patron, 'i'he Rev. Richard Smith, the Duke's chap- 
 lain, is the present incumbent. 
 
 In tlie chancel there is a very costly and splendid alabaster monument, to the 
 memory of the first Earl of Devonshire, which is composed of several figures the size 
 of life, sculptured in relief, and elaborately finished : it is divided into compartments, 
 the whole of which are profusely ornamented, gilt and coloured. A table-monument 
 is placed at the foot of the large one, on which are two recumbent figures, one is 
 clothed in the dress of the times ; the other represents a skeleton. 
 
 " There is something," observes Mr. Rhodes, in his description of this monument, 
 " strikingly impressive in this representation of a man who appears to have just passed 
 from time into eternity, with all the habiliments of life about him, and the bare ribbed 
 image of Death, which hes at his side, awfully intimating the transition that must
 
 54 
 
 EDENSOR. 
 
 soon be made. The sculptor has here ' bodied forth' a lesson of mortality •which is 
 extremely simple, yet full of pathos and instruction." 
 
 Arms and Monumental Inscriptions in the Church, 
 
 Sacred to the memory of William Cavendish, the 
 second scjn of the same parents, who also here put off 
 his earthly dress. He was a man born to fill every 
 honourable station, and in thesimplicily of his virtue, 
 deserving, rather than courting, glory. Whom, when 
 James the First, of blessed memory. King of Great 
 Britain, had honoured with the Titles, first of Baron 
 Hardwick, and afterwards Earl of Devonshire, he ap- 
 peared not so much to do honour to the Man as to the 
 Title. With what Wisdom, Integrity, and Applause 
 he sustained the Duties of his Province, enquire of 
 that Province, Common Fame is seldom false. He 
 was not merely the best Man of his own, but every 
 age: nor can his character be siippress'd or spoken of 
 without difficulty. He was capable of the utmost dili- 
 gence, and of unsullied faith, with the ap|>earauce of 
 the greatest indolence. He claimed no Honour, and 
 yet obtained all. To Him, having order'd that he 
 might be buried without splendour, and in a plain 
 gra\e, this monument was erected with an affection 
 greater than its expense. He died the 5rd of March, 
 16i5. 
 
 Sacred to the memory of Henry, eldest son of Wil- 
 liam Cavendish, knt. of Chalsworth, in the county of 
 Derby, and of the much celebrated Elizabeth Hard- 
 wick, of Hardwick, in the same county, who after- 
 wards married her fourth husband, George, sixth Earl 
 of Shrewsbury. He was a .'trenuous and brave man, 
 and particularly distinguish'd himself among the Eng- 
 lish volunteer Commanders in the campaign of the 
 Netherlands, in the year loTS, in which he display'd 
 perseverance, skill, diligence, activity, and fortitude. 
 When, however, his military engagements gave place 
 to the enjoyment of ease, he indulged in the liberal 
 and sumptuous use of his fortune, in such a manner as 
 to retain the character of splendour and festivity, and 
 avoid the reproach of luxurious indolence. Having 
 deposited within these walls, in this County, his Arms 
 and his Mortal Remains. His Body lies here awaiting, 
 instead of the clarion of Fame, the trumpet of the 
 Resurrection. He died the iL'th day of October, 1616. 
 A Ublet for Alexander Barker, who died 8th Feb- 
 ruary, 18:.^^, aged 77. Also for his wife and several 
 children. 
 
 A tablet for Mr. John Philips, sometime house- 
 keeper at Chatsworth, who died 28th May, 175o, in 
 the 75rd year of his age, and the 60th of his service in 
 the most noble Family of his Grace the Duke of Dev- 
 onshire. 
 
 Epitaph. 
 Pray let my Bones together lay 
 Until that sad and jo\ful Cay, 
 When from above a voice shall say. 
 Rise, all )0u Dead, lift up your Eyes, 
 Vour great Creator bids you rise ; ' 
 Then do. I hope, with all the Just, 
 To shake off my jKilluted Dust, 
 And in New Robes of Glory Drest, 
 To have access amongst the Bless'd. 
 Which God, of his infinite Mercy, grant, for the 
 sake and through the Merits of my Redeemer Jesus 
 Christ the Righteous. 
 
 There was the following memorial of George Leech 
 remaining August iTT, 1611. 
 
 Orate pro aia Georgii Leeche, armigeri, qui quidem 
 Georgius obiit decimo die mensis Martii Anno Domini 
 1505. Cujus Aiiimae propicietur Deus. Amen. 
 
 ARMS. Ermine, a chief indented, Gu/es, charged 
 with three crowns. Or, impaling, Areent, 
 thirteen torteaux, 4, 5, 5, 2, 1, label of three, 
 Azure. 
 Inscription on Beton's monument, engraved on a 
 
 handsome brass plate. 
 Deo Opt, Max. et posteritati sacrum. Joanni Beto- 
 nio, Scoto, nobilis et optimi viri Joannis Betonii ab 
 
 Anthmwthy, filio, Davidis Betonii, illustriss. S. R. E. 
 Cardinalis, nepoti; Jacobi Betonii reverendiss. S. An- 
 drese Archiepiscopi, et Regni Scotije Cancellarii dig- 
 niss. pronepoti: ab ineunte aetate in humanioribus 
 disciplinis et philosophia quofaciliorad jus Romanum 
 (cujus ipse consultiss- fuit) aditus pateret ; ab optimis 
 quibusque preceptoribus et liberaliier et ingenue tdu- 
 cato: omnibus morum facilitate, fide,prudentiaetcon- 
 stantia charo ; unde a sereniss. Principse .Maria Scoto- 
 rum Gallorumque Regiiia in prasgustatoris primum, 
 mox cEConomi munus suffeoto; ejusdemque sereniss. 
 Kegicje, una cum aliis e vinculis truculentiss. tiranni, 
 apud Levini lacus castrum liberatori fortiss. quern 
 post varias legatioucs et ad Carolum IX. Galliarum 
 Regem Christiauiss. et ad Elizabetham Sereniss. An- 
 glorum Reginam feliciter et non sine laude susccptas, 
 falls properantibus, in suse setatis flore, sors aspera 
 immaui dysenlerias morbo e numero viventium exe- 
 mit. Jacobus Reverendiss. Glasguensis Archiepisco- 
 pus, et Andreas Betonius, ejusdtm Sereniss. Reginae, 
 ille apud Regem Christianiss. legatus, hie vero oecono- 
 mus, in perpetuam rei memoriam ex voluntate et pro 
 imperio Sereniss. Reginae herseclementiss. fratres mss- 
 tiss. posuerunt. Obiit anno salutis 1570. Vixit annos 
 52, menses 7, et diem Dni expectat apud Chatsworlh 
 in Anglia. 
 
 Epitaphium. 
 Immatura tibi legerunt fila sorores 
 Betoni, utsummum ingenium, summumque periret 
 Judicium, et nobis jucundum nil foret ultra. — \. B. 
 
 Underneath the inscription is the figure of a knight 
 in armour (small size) engraved on brass. On an altar 
 tomb, over it, DOMI et FORIS. 
 
 AR.MS. Quarterly, 1 and 4, a fess int. three mas- 
 cles; 2 and 5, chevron charged with a boar's 
 head erased. 
 
 Translation. 
 
 To God, the best and Greatest, and to Posterity, 
 
 Sacred to John Beton, of Scotland, son of that illus- 
 trious and very excellent man, John Beton, of .\nth- 
 muty, grandson of David Beton, the celebrated Cardi- 
 nal of the Sacred Church of Rome, great-grandson of 
 James Beton, the Right Rev. .Archbishop of St. An- 
 drew's, and Lord High Chancellor of the kingdom of 
 Scotland, hberally educated by all the best Preceptors, 
 in polite literature and philosophy, to acquire with 
 greater facility a knowledge of the common Law (in 
 which he was very much skilled;) he endeared him- 
 self to all by the gentleness of his manners, his integ- 
 rity, prudence, and constancy, for which he was 
 chosen by the most serene Priiicess, Mary, Queen of 
 the Scots and French, first, to the office of Tastor, 
 then to that of Comptroller of the Household; he 
 with others bravely liberated the same Queen, from 
 the chains of a cruel tyrant, at the castle of Loch 
 
 Leven After various embassies to his most Christian 
 
 Majesty, Charles the Ninth, king of France, and to 
 Elizabeth, queen of England, successfully performed, 
 and with the greatest credit to himself, he was cut off 
 in the flower of his age by a d>sentery. James, the 
 Right Rev. Archbishop of 'Gla.sgow, and Andrew Be- 
 ton, the former ambassador of the same Queen to the 
 most Christian King, and the latter Comptroller of the 
 Household, his most sorrowful brothers, placed this in 
 perpetual remembrance of the event, by the wish and 
 command of the Queen, his most kind Mistress. He 
 died in the year of Salvation, 1570, aged 52 years 7 
 months, and expects the day of the Lord at Chats- 
 worth. 
 
 Epitaph. 
 
 The Fates, O Beton, envious of thy worth. 
 
 Have snatch'd thee prematurely from the earth; 
 
 With you have gone, bright Genius, Judgment 
 sound. 
 
 And we, thy Friends, are left in grief profound.
 
 EDENSOR. 55 
 
 John Beton was a faithful and confidential servant of the unfortunate !Mary, 
 Queen of Scots. He appears to have entered into the service of liis royal mistress 
 early in life ; and the inscrij>tion on his monument sets forth the important services 
 that he had rendered her. He died at Chatsworth in the year 1.570, at the age of 
 thirty-two, much to the regret of the royal captive, his mistress, who, situated as she 
 then was, could ill bear the loss of such a servant. Though a queen, she was yet a 
 prisoner, and with the exception of the little circle of domestics who attended upon 
 her at Chatsworth, she had none to do her homage. 
 
 Charities. 
 
 Mr. John Hacket left £20. to the poor. The interest to be distributed aniuially. 
 
 Mr. John Phillips founded a school at Edensor, and left by his Will, bearing date 
 3rd March, 1734, £100. to the poor, and £30. to the schoolmaster. 
 
 These sums were laid out in the purchase of two cottages, a small croft, and three 
 fields, the whole containing 6 acres, situate at Beeley, and an allotment of common 
 land, of nearly 6 acres, awarded in respect of the premises under the inclosure Act. 
 The whole is now let to William Wallis, as yearly tenant, at £16. 16*. per amium. 
 The school was to be open for the reception and instruction of the poor children of 
 Edensor, Pilsley, and Beeley. A third of the rent, viz. £.5. 12.y. forms part of the 
 salary of the schoolmaster of Edensor, to which the Duke of Devonshire makes a vo- 
 luntary contribution of £30. per annum. Each housekeeper of the township of Eden- 
 sor is allowed to send his or her children. Mr. AFilliam Milward is the schoolmaster. 
 
 Christiana, Countess of Devonshire, by her ^V^ill, bearing date 2nd August, 1674, 
 left £420. to be laid out in land, the interest to be appropriated for the binding out 
 as apprentices yearly, one or more poor children born at Edensor or Derby. 
 
 \Villiam, Earl of Devonshire, by his Will, bearing date 17th July, 1683, gives and 
 bequeaths to the poor people for the time being, at or in the several places, parishes, 
 or townships of Chatsworth, Edensor, Hardwick, Heath, Astwith, Houghton, Lang- 
 with, Harstoft, Stainsby, and Pentrich, in the said county of Derby, the sum of £400. 
 to be laid out in land, the interest to be employed in making provision for work, or 
 if his executors think fit to erect a workhouse and settle a stock to receive such as 
 cannot work, and to put forth apprentices of the younger sort. 
 
 On a tablet in the parish church of Hault Hucknall is the following memorandum : 
 
 In 1687, the Right Hon. AVilliam, late Earl of Devonshire, and the Right Hon. 
 Christiana, Countess Dowager, his mother, by their last wills and testaments, did give 
 and bequeath £1020. to be laid out in lands for the use of the poor of the towns and 
 villages of Derby, Edensor, Heath, Stainsby, Harstoft, Astwith, Rowthorn, Lang- 
 with, Houghton, Pentrich, Peak Forest, Shottle, and Postern ; and in fulfilling tiie 
 true intent of the said wills, there is purchased land, in the parish of Rodsley, in this 
 county, to the yearly value of £50. a year, for the use of the poor of the towns and 
 villages aforesaid, for ever. 
 
 The property belonguig to this charity consists of, 
 
 A farm house and outbuildings and 50 a. r. 31 p. of land at Rodsley, in the oc- 
 cupation of Thomas Smith, as yearly tenant at £44. 2s. stated in the Commissioners' 
 Report to be worth £87. lO.y. Id. per annum. 
 
 A farm and fold yard and 11 a. 3 r. 16 p. of land at HoUington, in the parish of 
 Longford, now let for £16. stated to be worth £27. 17*. 8f/. per amium. 
 
 The Rev. German Buckston is tlie holder of a lease of several closes in the parish 
 of Longford, called Booth Hay Flatts, containing about 33 acres, bearing date 26th 
 March, 1686, which was prior to the purchase of lands for the charity, and granted 
 by Roger Jackson to ^V^illiam Woolley, for a term of one thousand years at £10. per 
 annum. 
 
 The Rev. German Buckston pays, out of a farm at Yeaveley, a fee farm rent of 
 £2. 10*. 
 
 The total rental, £72. 12.v. is subject to a deduction of £1. 4.v. Gd. allowed to Mr. 
 Buckston for land tax, which reduces the income io £71. 7*. 6<L 
 
 The Duke of Devonshire is considered to be the trustee of this charity, and Wil-
 
 56 
 
 EDENSOR. 
 
 Ham Jeffrey Lockett, esq. as the agent of the Duke, receives the rents, and has for some 
 years past disposed of it as follows : 
 
 To the town of Derby 5 
 
 Kdeiisor 5 
 
 Peak Forest 5 
 
 Shottle and Postern 4 
 
 - Pentrich 6 
 
 Carried forward £25 
 
 £. 
 Brought over '.'j 
 To Heath, Stainsby, Harstoft, Astwiih, I.ang- 
 
 with. Rowthorn, Houghton and Hucknall 18 
 Balance remitted annually by Mr. Lockett 
 to Messrs. Arkwright, Topl'isand Co 28 
 
 s. rf. 
 
 
 7 6 
 
 £71 7 6 
 
 The balance has been placed annually in the hands of ]\fessrs. Arkwright, Toplis 
 and Co. since 1817, and is placed to a distinct account in favour of the cliarity ; and 
 a sum of £270. received in 1825 for a fall of timber on the Rodsley lands, was carried 
 to the same account, making in the whole, in 1826, £380. 10^. id. exclusive of two 
 years' interest. 
 
 It appears from an old paper, produced to the Commissioners from the evidence 
 room at Hardwick, that, from 1700 to 1713, an annual sum of £6. was allowed from 
 the charity for placing out apprentices at Derby ; and occasional sums of from £1. to 
 £2. were also allowed to the needy poor of Derby, and distributed accordingly. It is 
 the opinion of the Commissioners, as stated in their report, that if the appropriation 
 were made with reference to the intentions of the Countess and the Earl of Devon- 
 shire, from whose bounty a large portion, if not the whole of the purchase money of 
 the lands was derived, a much more considerable share of the rents woidd be applied 
 to Derby and Edensor ; both those places being entitled to the whole benefit of the 
 charity of the Countess, and as much entitled to partake of the benefit of the Earl's 
 donation as the other places above mentioned. 
 
 Edensor Inn was built by the late Duke of Devonshire, for the accommodation of 
 travellers. It is a comfortable Inn, situate a short distance from the village church, 
 upon the verge of Chatsworth park, and near to the lodge. It is built of stone, and 
 has a handsome portico. In the open area in front of the house grows a beautiful oak 
 tree. Mr. ^\'alters, the present occupier, keeps excellent post chaises and horses ; and 
 every accommodation and attention is paid by him and his famdy to those parties 
 who visit his house.
 
 57 
 
 CASTLETON. 
 
 CASTLETON, a. village, township and parish, in the constablery of Hope, in the 
 archdeaconry of Derby and hundred of High Peak, 6 ra. N. N. E. from Tideswell, 
 12 m. N. E. from Buxton, 7 m. N. E. from Chapel-en-le-Frith, 25 m. S. E. from 
 Manchester, 40 m. N. from Derby, and 162 m. N. W. from London, is seated in one 
 of the most beautiful valleys in the Peak of Derbyshire, and more celebrated than any 
 other for its extensive and wonderful cavern, ancient and once valuable lead mines, and 
 Peverel's castle. The houses in the village are built principally of stone, procured in 
 the neighbourhood at the foot of Mam Tor, and other immense mountains that en- 
 close it to the south and west : to the north and east, a fruitful plain of some miles' 
 extent is enclosed on the north by another range of hills, the highest eminences of 
 which are known by the names of AVinhiU, Losehill, Bamford Edge, &c. The 
 parish includes the parochial chapelry of Edale, which is seated in the most secluded 
 part of Derbyshire, embosomed amidst the highest portion of the Peak hills. The 
 township of Castleton, in 1821, contained 210 houses, occupied by 214 famihes, and 
 993 persons, now increased to about 1200 inhabitants, w^ho are employed in agricul- 
 ture, the mines, cotton weaving, twine spinning, and other trades and handicraft. 
 The support of the inhabitants is derived from these sources, and from those stran- 
 gers who are iaduced to visit the remarkable places in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The extent of the township of Castleton is 2905 a. 3 ?: 32 /;. of good land, prin- 
 cipally pasture, watered by a brook which springs from under a rock near the Peak 
 cavern ; the land on the north side of the township is gritstone, and that on the south, 
 limestone, divided into large farms, generally at an average rental of £2. per acre, 
 though there are many small proprietors, the number of freeholders being 150. 
 Among the large proprietors may be enumerated the Duke of Devonshire, grantee 
 and lessee of the manor under the crown. Sir AFilham Chambers Bagshaw, M. D. 
 William John Bagshaw, of the Oaks in Norton, esq. Rev. John Bagshaw, of Banner 
 Cross, as lessee of the duchy, Isaac Hall, esq. John (Champion, esq. Messrs. Robert 
 Howe Ashton, Samuel Ashton, John Dakin, Ellis and Thomas Eyre, Josejih Hall, 
 Rowland Heathcote, Isaac and Jeremiah Royse, Thomas, Joseph, and John AV^right, 
 the Rector and Vicar, &c. The great tithes belong to the bishop of Chester, as 
 rector, and the vicar in the following proportions, viz. two thirds to the bishop, and 
 one third to the vicar. The great tithes are on lease to the inhabitants at £135. 19.v. 
 Id. The tithe of lead ore is every twentieth dish, and rarely exceeds £60. per annum. 
 The small tithes belong to the vicar. The estimated annual value of the buildings 
 and land is £2897. 19*'. 2cl. The average of seven years parochial expenses (except 
 the church rate, which is nearly one bonk annually, and the highways) is £288. 5.?. 
 The paupers are maintained in a workhouse. There is one Wesleyan Methodist 
 chapel, built in 1809 : two male, and one female friendly societies, a parochial day- 
 school, endowed, two Sunday-schools, one at the church, and one at the Methodist 
 chapel, which are supported by tlie voluntary contributions of the inhabitants, and 
 seven inns in the township. 
 
 The Duke of Devonshire, as grantee and lessee of the crown, holds a court-leet and 
 court-baron at Easter and Michaelmas. A three weeks' court is also held for the 
 recovery of small debts under £5. Joseph Hall, esq. is the steward. 
 
 There was anciently a market at this place, held on "W^ednesdays, which existed 
 before 1222. There is now no market, but fairs have lately been established here, 
 viz. on the 21st of April and on the first Wednesday in October, for the sale of 
 horses, cattle, &c. The Sheffield and Manchester coaches pass through daily.
 
 58 CASTLETON. 
 
 Castleton is thus depicted by the muse of ]Mr. Cotton : 
 
 " \ place of noted fame, His craggy temples tow'rds the azure sky. 
 
 •Which from the Castle there derives its name. That if we this should with the rest compare. 
 
 Eiif (ing the village, presently v'are met They hillocks, mole-hills, warts and pebbles are. 
 
 AVith a clear, swift and murmuring rivulet. This, as if King of all the mountains round. 
 
 Towards whose source, if up the stream you 1 Is on the top with an old tower crown'd. 
 
 Or on vour right, close bv, vour eye is strookook. An antick thing, fit to make people staie: 
 
 With a' stupendous rock, raising so high But of no use, tither in peace or war." 
 
 At the time of the compilation of Doomsday Book there were two manors belonging 
 to the castle of William Peverell, in the Peak, which were held at that time by Gernebem 
 and Hundine. These had there two carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to 
 two ploughs. There are now four ploughs in the demesne, and three villanes with one 
 plough, and eight acres of meadow. Value in king Edward's time Ms. now 60s. 
 D. B. 
 
 The manor of Castleton is described in the Doomsday Survey as " Terra Castelli 
 William Peverell, in Peche fers." Tliis expression, says Lysons, seems to import, 
 that the castle which gives name to this parish, was buih by U'Uham Peverel, natu- 
 ral son of "\^"ilham I. who had given him this manor amongst other estates after the 
 conquest. The Peverels did not^ enjoy their large estates in this county many genera- 
 tions ; for '^Vilham Peverel, a grandson of the first possessor, having poisoned Ra- 
 nulph. Earl of Chester, was obliged to secure his safety by an ignominious flight ; 
 leaving his castles and immense possessions at the king's (Henry the Second) dis- 
 posal. Some of these continued many years in the crown, as appears by the sheriffs' 
 accounts, but at length were granted by Henry II. to his son John, Earl of Mor- 
 teyne, who afterwards succeeded to the crown. During the absence of Richai-d I. 
 tliis castle, pursuant to the a.greement between Longchamp, bishop of Ely, and 
 John, Earl of ^lortevne, was placed in the hands of Hugh de Xovant.* In the sixth 
 year of the reign of John, Hugh de Xeville was appointed governor of the castle of 
 Pec. It was afterwards in the hands of the rebelhous barons, who united to oppose 
 the tpanny of the monarch, but, in 121 5, "\rUham de Ferrers, seventh Earl of Derby, 
 raised troops for the king, and took it from them by assault ; and, in recompence for 
 this emineiit service, he was appointed governor. In the following year, Ranulph de 
 BlunderviUe, Earl of Chester, was governor. The castellans now followed each other 
 in quick succession. In 1 Henry III. "WiUiam de Ferrers, seventh Earl of Derby, 
 obtained a new patent for the custody of the castle of Pec, and held the government 
 of it fidl six years. In 7 Henry III. the custody was given to Bryan de Lisle, a 
 person of great trust with the king. In 13 Henry III. it was delivered up by Brjan 
 de Lisle to ^ViUiam, Earl of Derby. In 16 Henry III. Bryan de Lisle again had 
 the custody; 17 Henry III. William, Earl of Derby; 33 Henry III. William de 
 Horsden; 35 Henry III. Prince Edward ; and in 49 same reign, Simon de ^Mont- 
 fort. In 18 Edward I. William, Earl AVarren ; 1 Edward II. Piers Gaveston ; 4 
 Edward II. John, Earl of A\'aiTen, obtained a free grant of the castle and honour of 
 Peke in Derbyshire, with the whole forest of High Peke, to hold during his life in 
 
 • Hugh de Xovnnt, or Nonant, was chaplain to Thomas, archbishop of Canterbury and archdeacon of Ox- 
 ford. He was high sheriff for the county of Stafford, in 5, i and 5 Richard I. and for executing which office 
 he was suspended from his Episcopal functions. Before his consecration, he was appointed by the Po)« to the 
 office of legate. In I1S9, Richard 1. granted to him liberty of ail his manors, lands and men, and of all those 
 of his churches of Coventry and Lichfield, Chester, Shrewsbury, &c. He purchased the monastery of Coventry 
 of the same king for 3(X) niarks, intending to place secular priests in it. In 1190, he, for this purpo^ie. went 
 thither with armed men, and the monks refusing to obey his order, he effected his design by force of arms, 
 wounding some and putting others to flight: he burnt and destroyed their charters and evidences, and estab- 
 lished secular priests in their place. Bale says that he himself was wounded in the conflict near the hi^h altar. 
 In 119.3, he was robbed of valuable treasures near Canterbury, as he was travelling towards king Itichard, then 
 a prisont-r in Germany. Soon after the king's return he was deprived of his bishopric, for joining in the con- 
 spiracy with John, Earl of Morteyne, afterwards king John, against his brother Richard, in his absence; but he 
 was willing to buy restitution, although he could never regain the king's favour, with the sum of .5,000 marks. 
 During his episcopate he obtained for the church of Lichfield the advowson of Bakeuell. In 1197, he was 
 compelled, by the pope's mandate and the king's authority, to replace the monks of Coventry, though he yet 
 entertained great aversion to the'ii. Before his death he repented of his severity to the monks, and by large 
 contributions endeavoured to expiate his offence, and dying in the habit of a monk, in 1199. at Betherleven, 
 in Normandy, he was buried in the Monk's cloisters, at Caen. After the death of this bishop, the monks of 
 Coventry having appointed a new prior, they proceeded to the election of a bishop.
 
 CASTLETON. 59 
 
 as full and ample a manner as it was anciently enjoyed by the Peverels before it came 
 by escheat to the kings of England. 
 
 In 2 Edward III. this castle and forest appear to have been a part of the fortune 
 given with Joan, sister of Edward III. on her marriage with David, Prince of Scot- 
 land. In 46 Edward III. it was given to John of Gaunt, and consequently absorbed 
 in the Duchy of Lancaster. Sir Ralph Shirley, who died in 14-66, was constable of 
 Peak castle. In the reign of Henry VII. the castle was held under the Duchy, by 
 Robert Eyre, of Padley, esq. ; in that of Henry VIII. successively by Robert Thorn- 
 hill and AVilliam Gallins. Lcland calls it the " Castel of the IIij Feke, belonging to 
 the king." In the reign of Edward VI. it was held by Godfrey Somersall; and in 
 that of Elizabeth, successively by John Eyre, esq. and Godfrey Foljambe, esq. 
 
 The elevated situation of the castle, and the almost perpendicular chasms that nearly 
 isolate the eminence which it occupies, must, prior to the invention of gunpowder, 
 have rendered it almost impregnable. The east and south sides are bounded by a 
 narrow ravine, called the Cave, which ranges between two vast limestone rocks, and 
 on the east is nearly 200 feet in depth. On the west it is skirted by the precipice 
 which frowns over the great cavern, and rears its abrupt head to the height of 260 
 feet. The north side is the most accessible, yet even here the path has been carried 
 in a winding direction, to obviate the steepness of the ascent. 
 
 The castle-yard, an enclosed area, extended almost over the whole summit of the 
 eminence. The wall is nearly in ruins to the level of the area ; though, in some few 
 places on the outside, it measures twenty feet high. On tlie north side were two small 
 towers, now destroyed. The entrance was at the north-east comer ; as appears by 
 part of an archway yet remaining. Near the north-west angle is the keep. The 
 walls of this building, on the south and west sides, are pretty entire ; and at the 
 north-Avest corner are 56 feet high : but the north and east sides are much shattered. 
 On the outside it forms a square of thirty-eight feet, two inches ; but on the inside 
 it is not equal, being, from north to south, twenty-one feet, four inches ; from east to 
 west, nineteen feet, three inches. This difference arises from a difference in the 
 thickness of the walls, which are composed of broken masses of limestone, and mortar 
 of such an excellent temper, tJiat it binds the whole together like a rock : the facings, 
 both outside and inside, are of hewn gritstone. In the wall within is a little herring- 
 bone ornament. 
 
 The inside is a complete vacuity ; but anciently consisted of two rooms ; one on the 
 ground floor, and one above : over which the roof was raised with a gable end to the 
 north and south, but not of equal height with the outer walls. The ground floor was 
 about fourteen feet high, the upper room about sixteen. The entrance to the former 
 appears to have been through a doorway on the south side of the upper room, by a 
 flight of steps, now wholly destroyed, but said to have existed within memory : the 
 present entrance is through an opening made in the wall. At the south-east corner 
 is a narrow winding staircase communicating with the roof, but in a ruinous con- 
 dition. 
 
 The antiquary will contemplate this ancient structure with feelings of gratification. 
 The top of the rock where the castle stands is but a circumscribed plot of ground, nor 
 can it at any time have been sufficiently ample to accommodate the numerous estab- 
 lishment of a great feudal chieftain : yet, in the earlier ages, it appears to have been 
 a place of considerable importance ; and the occasional residence of the Peverels, who 
 resided here in great pomp and splendour. 
 
 The antiquity of this castle is considerable. IMr. King, who lias minutely described 
 it in the sixth volume of the Archa^ologia, imagines it to have been a fortress, and a 
 place of royal residence, during the government of the Saxons ; but other antiquarians 
 suppose it to be an undoubted Norman structure, built by William Peverel, natural 
 son of the Conqueror ; to whom, indeed, the traditions of the neighbourhood ascribe 
 its erection. Its ancient appellation of Pevcrel's Place in the Peke, countenances this 
 opinion. AVhatever is the truth, it is certain, that Peverel possessed it at the time of 
 the Doomsday Survey, by the name of the ('astle of the Peke, with the honour and
 
 60 CASTLETON. 
 
 forest, and thirteen other lordships in this county. About this time a tournament is 
 reported to have been held here on the following occasion. 
 
 " Pain Peverel (half brother to ^Villiara) Lord of 'V^^hittington, in the county of 
 Salop, had two daughters : one of whom, named Mellet, was no less distinguished by 
 a martial spirit than her father. This appeared from the declaration she made respect- 
 ing the choice of a husband. She firmly resolved to marry none but a knight of great 
 prowess; antl her father, to confirm her purpose, and to procure and encoiu-age a 
 number of visitors, invited all noble young men who were inclined to enter the lists, 
 to meet at Peverel's Place in the Peke, and there decide their pretensions by the use 
 of arms ; declaring at the same time, that whoever vanquished his competitors, 
 should receive his daughter, with his castle at "Whittington, as a reward for his skill 
 and valour. Guarine de 3Ieez, a branch of the house of Lorraine, and an ancestor of 
 the Lords Fitz-^Varrine, hearing this report, repaired to the place abovementioned, 
 and there engaged with a son of the king of Scotland, and also with a Baron of Bur- 
 goyne, and vanquishing them both, obtained the prize for which he fought." 
 
 It has been observed that this castle, though almost impregnable from its situation, 
 was but ill adapted for a procrastinated siege, there being no appearance of any well or 
 reservoir within its walls, from which the garrison could be suppUed with water. To 
 this observation it has been re[)hed, that the spring at the upper end of Cave Dale 
 might, by some very simple contrivance, have been made available to furnish the 
 troops with this necessary article. Another, and more ample supply, hes more con- 
 venient; a well has been discovered on the summit of Long Clifte Hill; between 
 wliich, and the castle, there is a communication, though now a very dangerous one, 
 across the narrow ridge of rock that overtops the entrance into Peak's Hole. This 
 well is built of the same kind of stone as the castle, and it is so situate as easily to be 
 made available for an abundant supply of water. 
 
 The Duke of Devonshire has the nominal appointment of constable of the castle, 
 and is lessee of the honour or manor and forest of the Peak, of which Castleton was, 
 till of late years, esteemed a member. €'&urts are now held for Castleton as a dis- 
 tinct manor, extending over many of the townships of the Peak. 
 
 The name of Peverel is closely identified with the ancient history of this county. 
 One of the most celebrated possessors of that name was the natural son of WiUiam the 
 Conqueror, by Maude, the daughter of Ingehic, a Saxon nobleman, related to Ed- 
 ward the Confessor. This lady, who possessed great personal beauty, appears, accord- 
 ing to some historians, to have been the wife of Ranulph Peverel, Elderman of the 
 hundred of Deng}', in the county of Essex, and resident at Hatfield Peverel, in that 
 county. It is probable that she became the mistress of A\'ilham of Normandy during 
 his visit at the court of the Confessor, and that he gave her in marriage to his com- 
 panion in arms, Ranulph Peverel, son of Payne Peverel, standard bearer to Robert, 
 Duke of Xormandy, the father of ^ViUiam I. The king's son, by Claude, at the de- 
 sire of his mother, assumed the name of his father-in-law, Peverel. According to 
 the monk Vitalis, the newly built castle of Nottingham was committed to the custody 
 of Peverel, in the second year of the reign of the Conqueror, but it is not stated 
 which Peverel is meant : and we find that Castellane, one of the sons of Maude, was 
 living in Dover, and that another, named Payne, was Lord of Brun, in the county of 
 Cambridge. There is no difficulty in the supposition that A\'ilUam Peverel, the na- 
 tural son of the conqueror, was advanced nearly to the age of manhood, at the period 
 of his father's successful enterprise, and we accordingly find that immense possessions 
 were bestowed upon him immediately after the conquest. Blore, in his History of 
 the Manor of South "W'infield, says " he had in Nottingham forty-eight houses of 
 merchants, twelve houses of knights, and thirty-nine manors with many dependent 
 villages, in Nottinghamshire: forty-four lordships in Northamptonshire, and two in 
 Essex. He had one manor and a dependent village in Bedfordshire, two towns in 
 Oxfordshii-e, eight manors and their ilependencies, in Buckinghamshire ; and besides 
 this manor of AVinfield, twelve manors and their \'illages, in Derbyshire." At the 
 court of his half-brother, A\'illiam Rufus, Peverel continued in favour, and, during 
 the war with Robert of Normandy, the castle of Helme, in that duchy, was entrusted
 
 CASTLETON. 6l 
 
 to him, which, however, he surrendered upon its being closely besieged. He died 
 shortly afterwards, probably in disgrace, and is said by Deering,* from the Records 
 of Lenton, to have founded the priory at that place, for Cluniac monks. 
 
 AFilliam Peverel (his son) in the time of Henry I. founded the priory of Lenton, 
 near Nottingham, for Cluniac monks, and for the health of the souls of King "Wil- 
 liam and Queen Matilda, and of their and his parents, and of King Henry and his 
 Queen ]Matilda, and of their children, AVilliam and Matilda, (the latter of whom first 
 married to the Emperor, Henry IV. and afterwards to Geoffrey Plantagenet, Earl of 
 Anjou, and by her last husband was mother of King Henry II.) and also for the 
 health of his own soul, and for the souls of Adeline, his wife, his son AV'illiam and all 
 his (the founder's) children ; he, gave thereto the following munificent gift out of his 
 Derbyshire estate, viz. two parts of his demesne pastures in liuchestones (Buxton) Sa- 
 chalcros (Shalcross) Ferneley (Fernilee) Sirebrock, Stafden (Staden) Cudal, probably 
 (Cowdale) Crebil, Chadelow, Darnehal, Stauredorl (Sterndale) Dunningestede, and 
 Chelmorden (Chelmorton). He also gave them his manor of Blackowell (Blackwell) 
 in the Peak, and two parts of the tithes of Tideswell, Bradewell, Badecowell (Bake- 
 well) Hoccalow (Ilucklow) Esseford (Ashford) "Wormmill (Wormhill) Monyax 
 (Monyash) and Hulmne (Holme) together with the whole tithe of his lead and venison 
 in the Peak. Avenellus, one of his men, ancestor of the Earl of Rutland, granted 
 to the same out of his demesnes at Haddon and Mettred uc Ploth, probably (Meadow 
 Place) and Monyax (Monyash.) 7'o which his other knights and great tenants made 
 considerable additions. He gave to the abbey of St. Mary, in York, founded by the 
 Earl of Brittany, eight carucates of land in lludsten ; he also founded an abbey of 
 Black Monks, near Northampton, where, according to the Abbey register, he died 
 in 1113. 
 
 AVilliam Peverel, according to the opinion of Blore, son of the last-named AFilliam, 
 was one of the temporal Lords who attended King Stephen in the great council held 
 at Oxford, in the first year of his reign, in which the King granted his Charter of 
 indulgences to the people and privileges to the church ; and in the third year of King 
 Stephen he conducted the Nottinghamshire forces into Yorkshire, against the Scots; 
 and in that expedition, he, at the famous battle, fought near Northallerton, in York- 
 shire, called Bellum de Standard, shared in the honour of a glorious victory, obtained 
 by the English, under the command of "William, Earl of Albemarle, in the company 
 of Robert de Ferrers, then Earl of Ferrers, and afterwards created Earl of Derby. 
 But in the sixth or seventh year of King Stephen (1140) he experienced a wide re- 
 verse of fortune: for, continuing firm in his attachment to the King, and the affairs 
 of the Empress, who had then raised an army to assert her right to the crown taking 
 a favourable turn, Ralph Paganell, baron of Dudley, one of her adherents, set fire to 
 the town of Nottingham : and this AVilliam Peverel, immediately afterwards, fight- 
 ing stoutly at Lincoln, in the army of Stei-'hen, against the army of the Empress, 
 headed by Robert the Consul, Earl of Gloucester, he was there taken prisoner with 
 the King, and the government of his castle at Nottingham was given, by the Em- 
 press, to the before-named Ralph Paganell. t But in the following year the soldiers 
 of AVilliam Peverel by stratagem in the night recovered it again. 
 
 King Stephen being at Nottingham, at the very earnest entreaty of this A\'illiam 
 Peverel (the third) and of Odona, his wife, and Henry, his son, confirmed to the 
 
 * This author states that William I. in the second year of his reigii, bestowed on his natural son the newly 
 built castle of Nottingham, ami large estates in that county. The Peerage of p^ngland places him at the head 
 of the Earls of Notting/iam, but G/invr, in his Catalogue of Honour, makes no mention of him as such; and 
 Camden says William, surnamed the Conqueror, made his natural son ruler of the counties of Nottingham and 
 Derby, by the title of Lord. Some of the minor courts of this and the adjoining county of Nottingham, are 
 still known by his name. 
 
 ■f Di/^'. Bar. Vol. I. p. 4.'51, 457, and Speed, p. 47.'5. I amaware, says niorc, this action, and all the other occur, 
 fences 1 have related respecting this family, except the donations to York abtiey, are annexed by Dvgdale to one 
 and the same William Peverel. liut besidis that, the registerof St. James, near Northampton, ofiirs evidence 
 (notwithstanding the disagieement between the year of our Lord and the King's reign) that W illiain Peverel, 
 the founder, whom, for disiinction, 1 will call William Peverel the second, die<l in the time of King Henry the 
 First ; it is highly improbable that the first M'illiam Peverel, who, by the Conqueror, a zealous and wary man, 
 was entrusted with the custody of the castle of Nottingham in the second year of his reign, should be capable 
 of fighting stoutly for Stephen seventy-four years afterwards. And, indted, 1 think it is evident it was not 
 him, but his grandson, William Peverel the third, wlio fought for King Stephen.
 
 62 
 
 CASTLETON. 
 
 monastery of Lenton what William Peverel^ father of this William, or this William 
 himself, or any other henefactors had given thereto. 
 
 This A\^iiliam Peverel, it seems, had taken from the canons at Lenton the churches 
 of Hsechan and llandia, which had been given to them by ^V'illiam, his father : but 
 afterwards repenting of what he had done, he, with the consent of his heir, \Villiam 
 the younger, restored them. His Deed being attested by many witnesses, and, 
 amongst others, by Robert de Heriz. 
 
 His son AV'illiam inherited the wealth and honours of the family, but was deprived 
 of his estates by Henry II. His crime was the poisoning of Ranulph, Earl of Ches- 
 ter, with whose wife, the daughter of the Earl of Gloucester, he intrigued and confed- 
 erated in the perpetration of this nefarious action, A. D. 1153. Dreading the just 
 severity of the monarch he fled, on his guilt becoming known, to the monastery of 
 Lenton, founded by his grandfather, and took the cowl as a monk ; but it being in- 
 timated to him that the king intended to pass through Nottingham in his way to 
 York, he threw off his religious habit and privately quitted the kingdom. The king 
 seized upon the major part of his possessions, which he retained in his own hands 
 until the birth of his youngest son, John, on whom he bestowed them, with the title 
 of Earl of JMorteyne. Margaret, the sister of the last ^Filham Peverel, married 
 Robert de Ferrers, Earl of Nottingham and Derby. 
 
 The handsome tower church is dedicated to St. Edmund. In 1269, the church of 
 Peak castle was given by Prince Edward (afterwards Edward I.) to the Abbot and 
 Convent of Vale Royal, in Cheshire. After the dissolution, Henry VIII. gave the 
 great tithes and the advowson of the vicarage, to the Bishop of Chester, and his suc- 
 cessors. The Bishop of Chester has 85 a. 1 r. 15 p. of land in the township, 35 acres 
 of which is but of little value, being high inferior land, and difficult to ciUtivate. 
 Some small plots, containing 3 a. 3 /•. 4 p. are divided between the bishop, as rector, 
 and the vicar. The living is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £il. and yearly 
 
 tenths ; it has been augmented by £'200. subscribed, and £200. obtained from 
 
 Queen Anne's Bounty. The glebe land is 21a. 3 r. 17 p. ; the vicar also receives 
 a third part of the great tithes, now let for £135. 19^. Id. yearly; and the tithe of 
 lead ore, which averages about £60. per annum, the mines being less productive than 
 formerly. The Rev. Charles Cecil Bates is the present vicar. 
 
 In 1819, the Rev. F. Farren left about 600 volumes of books to be lent out to the 
 parishioners at the discretion of the minister. 
 
 A handsome Saxon arch, which divides the nave and the chancel, was rebuilt, in 
 1827, by order of Mr. EMas Needham and Mr. Timms, churchwardens. 
 
 Monumental Inscriptions in the Church. 
 
 In memory of Micah Hall, gent, attorney at law, 
 who died 14th May, ISOl, aged 79: beneath is a Latin 
 couplet, which may be thus translated— What I was 
 you know not— What I am you know not — Whither I 
 am gone you know not — Go about your business. 
 
 On Brass— The Rev. Edward Bagshaw, A. M. the 
 worthy vicar of this place 46 years, died 12th April, 
 
 1769, aged 79. A man, whose chief delight was in the 
 service of his Master; a sound scholar, a tender and 
 affectionate husband, a kind and indulgent parent, a 
 lover of peace and cjuietntss: who is gone to tliat place 
 where he nowenjoys the due rewavdof all hislabours. 
 Near him lies Margaret, his wife, and several of his 
 children. 
 
 Charities Toiunship of Castleton. 
 
 Bagshaw Richard -j 
 
 Bennett Edward | 
 
 Bray Champion, of Hope ... 
 
 Dakin Thomas 
 
 Gisborne Rev. Francis 
 
 Howe R(jbcrt 
 
 Needham bamuel, Rushopl 
 
 ^Edge J 
 
 Staveley Alice 
 
 Stavelcy Mary 
 
 House and garden, and 
 65 u. old end. in Edale 
 
 3 a. 3 r. 15 p. of land .. 
 
 £100. secured on turn- 
 pike road, viz. 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Interest 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Interest j 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 .Schoolm.toinst. 12 
 poor ehil. Castleton 
 £2. Poor, residue to 
 educate 3 poor chil. 
 
 Poor 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto and Ringers 
 
 Ditto - 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Will, loth Mar. 17-19. 
 Will, 5th May. 1720. 
 
 Died in 1825. 
 
 Castleton. 
 
 Hope. 
 
 Edale. 
 
 Will, in 1706. 
 
 Will, 1818. 
 
 Will, 4th June, 1818. 
 
 Will, 15th Dec. 1781. 
 Will, loth Jan. 1785.
 
 CASTLETON. 63 
 
 Parish of Castleton. 
 Whittingham James | £100 | Interest... | Education of 12 boys and girls. 
 
 The immediate approach to Castleton, by the road across the mountains from 
 Chapel-en-le- Frith, is by "a steep descent, called the Winnnts* or AVlnd-gates, from 
 the stream of air that always sweeps through the chasms. This road is two miles in 
 length, and carried on in a winding direction, in order to render the natural declivity 
 of the ground passable by carriages, llajipy was the imagination that first suggested 
 its name, The gates or portals of the winds ; since, wild as these sons of the tempests 
 are, the massive rocks which nature here presents, seem to promise a barrier sufficient- 
 ly strong to control their maddest fury. Precipices 1000 feet in height, dark, rugged 
 and perpendicular, heave their unwieldy forms on each side the road, which makes 
 several inflections in its descent, and frequently presenting themselves in front 
 threaten opposition to all further progress. At one of these sudden turns, to the left, 
 a most beaxitiful view of Castleton vale is unexpectedly thrown upon the eye, refresh- 
 ing it with a rich picture of beauty, fertility, and variety, after the tedious uniformity 
 of rude and barren scenery to which it has so long been confined." 
 
 This peaceful and luxuriant vale has a very impressive effect, from being contrasted 
 with the bleak and elevated tracts that environ it. Its breadth is in many parts two 
 miles from south to north ; its length, eastward, between five and six, and its dejjth, 
 below the general level of the surrounding country, nearly 1000 feet. Throuo-h its 
 bosom flows several meandering rivulets; and from the north and south, various 
 lesser dales open into it from different distances. This valley communicates with that 
 through which the Derwent holds its course to Derby, a track well worth pursuin"-, 
 from the romantic variety and beauty of the scenes it successively presents. The 
 villages of Hope, Castleton and Brough, are situate within its limits ; and the former 
 with its spire church, forms a very agreeable feature in the scenery when viewed from 
 this part of the descent. The steep sides of the valley are beautified by well cultivated 
 enclosures, rising above one another to its very edge. To the north, the country 
 boldly swells into hills, terminating in two high points. Westward, it does not ex- 
 tend beyond the village of Castleton, but it there forms a noble amphitheatre, the back 
 of which rises in many parts to the height of 1000 feet. As the road winds alono- the 
 declivity, the traveller obtains a prospect of Castleton, which appears clustered near 
 the bottom of the steep eminence, at whose feet the famous caveiyi discloses itself 
 and whose summit is occupied by the ruins of the ancient castle, frownino- over the 
 precipice, and Mam Tor raising its head beyond, are striking and grand objects. 
 Near the entrance of the village, a bridge has been thrown across the stream which 
 issues from the cavern. A ditch and vallum formerly extended in a semi-circular 
 course round the village, from the mountain on which the castle stands, and may yet 
 be traced in particular directions. 
 
 Mr. Cotton describes Mam Tor, considered the second wonder of the Peak in the 
 following lines : 
 
 * " The Wiiinats is not without a tale of horror. About sixty years ago a gentleman and lady, mounted on 
 single horses and unatteiuled with servants, are said to have been murdered in this dreary pass. They were 
 strangers in the country, and some circumstances induced the supposition that they were on a matriinonial 
 excursion to Ihe north. They were both young, and one of the men concerned in the murder stated the lady 
 to be extremely handsome. The morning aftur the commission of this atrocious act, the horses beloni'inc to 
 these unfortunate persons were found in the neiglibourhood of Castleton, without riders, but iiroperly caiiari- 
 soned for travel. Suspicion pointed to the crime that harl been committed, and an enciu'iry tooli place when 
 after a few days' search, the dead bodies were found in one of the holes in the cragev sides of the Wiima'ts. Ali 
 attempts to trace out the perpetrators of this horrid deed were for a long time fruitless: they escaped the' pun- 
 ishment of an earthly tribunal, hut a singularly calamitous fate attended them. They were five in number " 
 one only died in his bed, who confessed to liavu parlieipated in the crime, and as he was the la^^t survivor he 
 told who were the companions of his guilt; two of tliein. working near where the murder was committed were 
 killed by the sudden falling of a part of tlie rock above them; the other two were the victims of different acci- 
 dents, and the inhabitants of this district regard their premature deaths as awful instances of divine venccance 
 Such is the tale of blood connected with the local history of the Winnats, and it is so circumstantially related' 
 that the names of the men who were concerned in the commission of the crime are mentioned, and the manner 
 of their death particularly detailed. This story I have told as it exists in the vicinity of the place but the en- 
 quiries 1 have made into the accuracy of this narrative induce me to suppose it fabulous." Wwck's.
 
 64 
 
 CASTLETON. 
 
 But the most cursory beholder may 
 
 Visibly see a manifest decay, 
 
 By jutting stones, that by the earth left bare 
 
 Hang on the sides suspended in the air. 
 
 This haughty mountain, by indulgent fame, 
 
 Is made a Wonder, Mam- tor is its name; 
 
 That is a Mother-Tow'r ; but to speak 
 
 More properly, 'tis the Phcenix of the Peak. 
 
 For when this mountain's by long wastings gone, 
 
 Her ashes will erect us such an one." 
 
 Among Peak's mountains, a great precipice. 
 
 Unlike in stature and in substance, is 
 
 Not of firm rock, like others, that here shroud 
 
 Their low'ring tops within a dewy cloud. 
 
 But of a shudd'ring earth, that from the crown, 
 
 With a continual motion moulders down ; 
 
 Spawning an hill of looser mould below. 
 
 Which will in time tall as the mother grow, 
 
 And must perpetuate the wonder so; 
 
 Which wonder is, that tho' this hill ne'er cease 
 
 To waste itself, it suffers no decrease- 
 Between one and two miles from Castleton, near the western extremity of the ele- 
 vated ridixe that separates this valley from Edale, is Mam Tor, or the Shivering 
 Mountain, one of the seven wonders of the Peak. This eminence is composed of 
 shale and micaceous grit in alternate stratification ; the former being highly impr^- 
 nated with vitriol of iron. Its name, Mam Tor, is an ancient British appellation ; 
 but the Shivering Mountain is a title it has received in more modern times, from the 
 circumstance of the shale continually decomposing under the action of the atmosphere, 
 and fallins in large quantities down the face of the precipice into the valley below. 
 The vulo-ar error," that the mountain has suffered no diminution in bulk, though the 
 shale and grit have been shivering from its face for ages, requires no confutation. If 
 it did, the bare inspection of the spot would be sufficient ; as the valley below is over- 
 whelmed with its ruins, to the extent of half a mile ; and the lines of an ancient en- 
 campment, which occupied the summit, destroyed for a number of yards by the 
 crumbUnfT of the substance. At some tUstanee to the north-west, is another break in 
 the mountain, called Little Mam Tor, from which the shale and grit frequently shiver, 
 but not in so great a degree as at the former, where the rushing noise of the quanti- 
 ties that descend, is sometimes so loud as to be heard at Castleton. 
 
 The summit of Mam Tor was extremely well adapted for a mihtary station, as the 
 ascent on everv side, but the north-east, is ven,^ steep ; and the height of the moun- 
 tain nearly 1300 feet above the level of the valley. The camp was surrounded by a 
 double trench, which is still, for the most part, in excellent preservation. It extend- 
 ed from the north-east to the south-west, along the ridge of the eminence, and occu- 
 pied somewhat more than sixteen acres of ground, the circumference being nearly 
 1200 vards. The enclosed area is very irregular, but approaches to the oblong form. 
 The principal entrance was from the west. At the north-east comer is a perennial 
 spring ; and near the south-west side are two barrows, one of which was opened a 
 few years ago, and a brass celt, and some fragments of an unbaked um, discovered 
 in it. 
 
 From the top of Mam Tor there is an extensive and charming view into Edale, 
 which a modern tourist has described as " a place in which the inhabitants, secluded 
 in the bosom of the mountains from the bustle of the world, appear to enjoy all the 
 quiet and security that pervaded the happy vale of Rasselas :" the view from this 
 eminence is not of common description : the most striking features of the Peak of 
 Derbvshire — its loftiest hills, and some of its loveliest dales are included in the 
 prospect. 
 
 Near the bottom of Mam Tor, on the south, is the very ancient mine of Odin, 
 which has probablv been worked from the Saxon times, and still furnishes employ- 
 ment for nearly 140 persons, men, women, and children. It consists of two levels, 
 running horizontallv into the mountain : the upper, a cart-gate, by which the ore is 
 brought from the mine ; the lower one, a water level, to drain the works, which has 
 beencarried more than a mile from the entrance. The vein of ore runs from east to 
 west, hadinc, or underlving, to the south ; and has in some places been followed sixty 
 vards below" the horizontal entrance; and in others, as much above it : the thickness 
 of the vein is various. The quality of the ore differs in different parts of the mine : 
 the best kind yields about three ounces of silver to the ton weight of lead. Elastic 
 bitumen, blende, barytes, manganese, fluor spar, sulphuret of iron, and various other 
 substances are obtained in this muie. 
 
 Though the level at the entrance of Odin mine is not more than seven or eight feet
 
 CASTLETON. 6S 
 
 from the surface of the earth, it is said to be nearly 4.50 feet below it, at the further 
 extremity. It extends into the mountain where the blue John is found, that singular 
 and beautiful substance, which is manufactured into ornaments. The two mines in 
 which it is procured, are named the TreclifF and the AV^ater-huU. The entrance to 
 the former is by an arched descent, conducting by numerous steps to the depth of 
 about sixty yards, where the steps terminate ; but a confined, yet tolerably easy path, 
 leads into an opening about thirty yards deeper. Tliis forms the commencement of 
 a range of natural caverns, or fissures, in the bowels of the mountain, the termination 
 of which is unknown, though they have been followed to an extent of nearly three 
 miles. In this adventurous journey, the passage is in many parts extremely rude and 
 difficult, the way being sometimes obstructed by enormous masses of stone, and at 
 others impeded by precipitous gulfs, where the use of ropes becomes necessary to aid 
 the descent. The strangely confused situation of the fissures ; the abrupt and dislo- 
 cated appearance of the i-ocks which form them ; the singular direction of the path, 
 now suddenly darting into the depths of the earth, and now proceeding by a more 
 easy and circuitous route ; and the effect produced on the mind by this extraordinary 
 arrangement of Nature's scenery ; are circumstances which description will ever be 
 inadequate correctly to display. Some beautiful snow-white stalactite decorates several 
 parts of these subterraneous passages ; and beds of a very rich kind of red ochre are 
 found among the productions of this singular mountain. The blue John is obtained 
 in two or three places of the mine, but does not appear to exist in any considerable 
 quantity. The passage is in many places wet and slippery ; and the flannel shirt, 
 hat, and trowsers, of a miner, are necessary to be worn by the person who undertakes 
 to explore these remarkable cavities. 
 
 The Speedwell Level, or Navigation Mine, another curious object for inspection in 
 this neighbourhood, is situate near the foot of the Winnats, in the mountainous range 
 called the Long Cliff. This level was originally driven in search of lead ore, by a 
 company of adventurers from Staffordshire, who commenced their undertaking about 
 sixty years ago, but with such little success, that, after an expenditure of i;i 4,000. 
 and eleven years' ceaseless labour, exerted in vain, the works were obliged to be aban- 
 doned. The descent is beneath an arched vault, by a flight of one hundred and six 
 steps, which leads to the sough, or level, where a boat is ready for the reception of 
 the visitor, who is impelled along the stream by the motion communicated to the boat 
 by the guide, through pushing against wooden pegs driven into the sides of the rock 
 at the distance of six feet from each other. The depth of the Avater is about three 
 feet : the channel through which it proceeds was blasted through the heart of the rock, 
 which was found of such solidity and hardness, that implements of sufficient temper 
 could hardly be procured to penetrate it. As the boat proceeds, several veins of lead 
 ore may be observed in the rock, but of insufficient value to defray the expense of 
 working them. 
 
 At the distance of six hundred and fifty yards from the entrance, the level bursts 
 into a tremendous gulf, whose roof and bottom are completely invisible; but across 
 which the navigation has been carried, by throwing a strong arch over a part of the 
 fissure where the rocks are least separated. Here, leaving the boat, and ascending a 
 stage erected above the level, the attention of the visitor is directed to the dark re- 
 cesses of the abyss beneath his feet ; and firm, indeed, must be his resolution, if he 
 can contemplate its depths unmoved, or hear them described, without an involuntary 
 shudder. To the depth of ninety feet all is vacuity and gloom ; l;ut bi'yond that 
 commences a pool of stygian waters, not unaptly named the Bottomless Fit ; whose 
 prodigious range may in some measure be conceived, from the circumstance of its 
 having swallowed up more than 40,000 tons of the rubbish made in blasting the rock, 
 without any apparent diminution either in its depth or extent. The guide, indeed, 
 informs you, that the former has not been ascertained ; yet we have reason to believe 
 tliat this is incorrect, and that its actual depth in standing water is about 3'iO feet. 
 There cannot, however, be a doubt, but that this abyss has connnunications with 
 others, still more deeply situate in the bowels of the mountain, and into wliich tlie 
 
 I
 
 66 CASTLETON. 
 
 precipitated rubbish has found a passage. The superfluous water of the level falls 
 throuGjh a water-gate into this profound caldron, with a noise like a rushing torrent. 
 
 This fissure is calculated at being nearly 280 yards below the surface of the moun- 
 tain ; and so great is its reach upwards, that rockets of sufficient strength to ascend 
 4.50 feet, have been fired without rendering the roof ^^sible. The effect of a Bengal 
 light discharged in this stupendous cavity, is extremely magnificent and interesting. 
 Bevond the fissure, the level has been driven to a similar length to that part which 
 precedes it ; but in this division of its course little occurs to excite observation. 
 
 Peak's Hole, or Cavern. — A cleft in this stratum of limestone at Castleton, has been 
 the origin of that most remarkable of the Derbyshire caverns, called Peak's Hole, or 
 the Devil's Cave ; while the action of water, and the concealed chemistry of nature, 
 have imparted to it much of its internal form, and have furnished it with its terrific 
 and splendid objects. A deep contracted ravine leads from the valley of Castleton to 
 its entrance. On each side of this gloomy chasm rise stupendous masses of rock : 
 that on the left sustains on the very ledge of its summit an ancient castle, while at its 
 feet appears the stream that gushes from the cavern on the right ; a stream " which 
 (says Mr. H. Moore) after heavy rain, is seen to boil up from underneath the rock, 
 at the entrance of the cave, dashing over the fragments of limestone that He in its 
 channel." 
 
 The mouth of this cavern is vast and magnificent. It consists of a broad, unsup- 
 ported arch, one hundred and twenty feet wide, and fourteen feet high. This arch 
 is flattened, but yet tolerably regular ; and the receding depth, where the light of day 
 becomes gradually obscured until it dies away in the internal darkness, is dilFerentlycal- 
 cuhted,but by Mr. Pilkington is estimated to have an extension of about ahundred yards. 
 "\^'ithin this porch, there is a twine manufactory : many persons are there employed ; 
 and men, women, and children, are seen busily moving about in this dismal expanse.* 
 Proceeding onwards beyond the rude habitations and humble machinery of these cu- 
 rious groups, the roof descends, and, at the base of an isolated rock, in the depth of 
 darkness, the visitors are conducted to the interior entrance of the cavern. Torches 
 or candles are here supplied, and the guide unlocks the gate, which, unlike the portal 
 of Dante's subterranean abode, has no inscription forbidding the \nsitants the indul- 
 gence of hope, but, on the contrary, is never entered without much expectation, which 
 is happily never disappointed. M'ithin the gate the passage becomes low and con- 
 fined. The visitors are obliged to stoop for many yards, and a spacious vault, called 
 the Bell-house, at length receives them. The sides of this vault appear to close down 
 upon the stream of water, which spreads out beneath them into the form of a small 
 lake. This pool or lake is denominated the first water : its depth is not more than 
 two or three feet, and its extent is about fourteen. The opening in the incumbent 
 rock is just sufficient to admit a small boat, in v.-hich the passengers lie as they would 
 in a bed, while the guide walks in the water and thrusts the boat across the stream. 
 In awaiting this embarkation the mind has an opportunity for classic and poetic in- 
 dulgences. The gleam from the torches, and the reflection of moving and glittering 
 images from the v.ater, set before the imagination troops of shado^vy beings, that seem 
 suddenly to start from their abysses upon the intruders. 
 
 After a short voyage across this lake, between the superincumbent rock and the wa- 
 ter, an ample cavernous expanse is entered. This is called the saloon, and is said to 
 be two hundred feet wide, and, in some parts, one hundred and twenty feet in height. 
 Xo ray of hght can enter this cavern except what may proceed from the candles of 
 
 •The author of the following lines seems to have wilfully mistaken tlie character of this manufactory, and 
 to have substituted hempen ropes for hempen twine. 
 
 " a crew o'th' Fates' pale labourers, who 
 
 Their riinful ta«ks in this dread iiorch pursue. 
 Not threads of life they shorten or extend. 
 But hempen cords of death — the murd'rer's end! 
 The eat;er Furies urge the toiling bands. 
 And Khadamanthus roars forth his commands." 
 Thomas's Philanihron
 
 CASTLETON. 67 
 
 the visitors, and these faint glimmerings only serve to render the extreme darkness of 
 the place the more impressive. On the farther side of this cavity the cavern stream 
 spreads out again into what is termed the second water, which can be generally passed 
 without the aid of the guide. The visitors then find themselves within an enclosure 
 of broken and projecting rocks, through which water perpetually percolates in a 
 drizzling shower. This rocky enclosure is called Roarer Rain's House, and it expands 
 gradually into a vast and awful cavity, which bears the name of the Chancel. Here 
 is sometimes placed, in order to surprise the visitors, a choir of the High Peak singers, 
 consisting generally of men, women, and children, under the direction of the parish 
 clerk of Castleton. The sharp and nasal tones of these choristers are not always in 
 unison with each other, but they are far from being out of tune with what may be 
 supposed the ideas of visitors in " these lower regions, where darkness holds an ever- 
 lasting reign." Many visitors will at that moment have iu their recollection, the pas- 
 sage in Virgil's sixth Book of the iEneid. 
 
 "Continuoauditae voces, vagitus et ingens, Here infant's spirits, that in birth expire 
 
 Infantumque animse flentes in limine primo. Are ever heard — a shrill and sad-toned choir — 
 
 »*««#***» And, near them, those who falsely sentenced die, 
 
 Hos juxta, falso damnati crimine mortis." Groan for their adverse fate perpetually. 
 
 These singers, however, disappoint very happily, our Virgilian impressions. They 
 do not cry or groan continually. Mr. Moore correctly observes, that, " after a stave 
 or two, these vocal performers produce a number of lighted candles, when we behold 
 them on a rocky gallery at a great height. These lights show the rude arches and 
 vastness of this subterranean cathedral with fine effect ; yet much Tartarian obscurity 
 remains, wherein the imagination v/anders with awe." Music, in such a situation, 
 however rude and discordant, is capable of producing an awful effect ; and we cannot 
 but fully agree with Mr. \rarner, who observes, that these unexpected strains 
 " issuing from a quarter where no object can be seen, in a place where all is still as 
 death, and every thing around calculated to awaken attention, and powerfully impress 
 the imagination with solemn ideas, can seldom be heard without tliat mingled emotion 
 of fear and pleasure, astonishment and deUght, which is one of the most interesting 
 feelings of the mind." 
 
 The path from the Chancel descends through an extent of about one hundred and 
 fifty feet, to the Half-wai/-House, where a deep rumbling of the water is heard, and 
 the visitors, stooping continually beneath the impending rocks, are obliged twice to 
 cross the stream. The Devil's Hall, Gloucester Hull, and the Great Tom (J' Lincoln, 
 are cavernous chambers of considerable interest, particularly the last, which has a 
 large cavity in its roof, resembling tiie form of a bell. This, when strongly illumina- 
 ted, exhibits such harmonizing proportions in the projecting rocks, the stream beneath, 
 and the spiracles in the roof, that the whole strikes the mind as the bold yet regular 
 design of a daring yet skilful architect. 
 
 A Uttle beyond this spot the roof of the cavern closes down upon the verge of the 
 water, and further progress is precluded. Attempts have been made to open a pas- 
 sage to other caverns, but Avithout success. The ingulfment of the stream which 
 flows through these subterranean chambers, is about four miles from the Manchester 
 road, at a place called Perry-foot. This has been proved by chaff or slips of paper, 
 which being thrown into the water there, frequently find their way to the cavern. 
 
 Before the visitor quits the cavern, his attention is usually called to the effect of a 
 blast; which is an explosion of gunpowder, wetlged into the rock in the inner part of 
 the cave. The sound reverberates, in repeated peals, with a dreadful volume of into- 
 nation. The return to the light of day, from the recesses of the cavern, is, by all who 
 have experienced the emotion it produces, pronounced to be deliglutul. " Tiie grad- 
 ual illumination of the rocks," says the writer in the Beauties of England and ^Vales, 
 " which become brighter as they approach the entrance, and the chastened blaze of 
 day, that arrays the distance in morning serenity, is, perhaps, one of the most beau- 
 tiful scenes that the pencil could be employed to exliibit."
 
 68 CASTLETOX. 
 
 The whole extent, from the mouth of the cavern to the farthest part of these sub- 
 terranean chambers, hitherto penetrated, is about 2300 feet ; and, it is worthy of re- 
 mark, that an intelligent foreigner, in his Journal, has declared himself to have been 
 struck " on approaching Peak's Hole with its strong resemblance to the rock of the 
 Fontaine de Vaucluse." 
 
 Amongst the miners of the Peak, an opinion had long prevailed that all the high 
 ground l^tween Perry-foot and Castleton would be found to abound with clefts and 
 caverns ; and Pilkington remarks, that this opinion was verified by the discovery of 
 a long series of cavernous chambers between Elden Hole and the Peak Cavern. 
 These subterraneous cavities branch off, probably, in various directions from a main 
 passage ; and with these is undoubtedly connected the suite of beautiful caves at 
 Brad well, in the parish of Hope, called the Bn^rshaw or Crifsiallhed Caverns, which 
 were first explored about the commencement of the present century. 
 
 There is nothing about the entrance of these brilliant cavities indicative of the won- 
 ders below. A hundred and twenty-six perpendicular and irregular steps conduct 
 the visitor to a natural rotunda, with a small opening in the roof, through which the 
 miners first descended by means of a chain. The passage thence is low and difficult, 
 but the fatigue is amply repaid by the grottoes, abundant in crystallizations, which 
 open along "the path. At the termination of a sloping and rugged declivity, a cavern 
 called the Grotto of Paradise, presents itself. It is about twelve feet high, and twenty 
 feet long, and the arches of the roof are pointed like those of a gothic hall. From 
 those arches, a countless number of stalactites are pendant, and the sides are richly 
 incrusted. ^^^len hghts are placed among these cri-stallizations, the illumination is 
 brilUant in the extreme. The floor is chequered with black and white spar, and has 
 altosether the appearance of a work of consummate art. — " Still continuing a similar 
 road," says Mr. Hutchinson, in his Tour, " and entertained at various times with the 
 curiosities of the place, and the gentle patterings of the water, which scarcely break 
 the solem.n silence of the scene, aHength you arrive at the Grotto of Calypso, and the 
 extremity of the cavern, about 2000 feet from the first entrance. In order to see this 
 to advantage, it is necessary to rise into a recess, about two yards high. There, indeed, 
 from the beautifvd appearances of the different crystallizations, some of them of an 
 azure cast, and from the echoes reverberating from side to side, you fancy yourself to 
 be arrived at the secluded retreat of some fabled deity. The water also running near 
 this cavern, brings a cool refreshing air, which from the exertion used, and the close- 
 ness of the place, is very acceptable. The size of this grotto is something similar to 
 that of the last, and, indeed, it is difficult to determine which is the most interesting." 
 
 There are other grottoes, more or less elegant and spacious, connected with these, 
 
 which have received names expressive of their pecuhar characteristic appearances, as 
 the Constellation, the Hall of State, &c. In all these, there are varieties of form, 
 size, and colour, in the stalactites, worthy the attention of the mineralogist. " It ap- 
 pears certain that the small or tubular has no additional circumference, for the water, 
 from which they are formed, does not act on their superficies, but descends from the 
 roof through their very fine tubes, and hence they increase in length onli/. It also 
 apjiears equally clear from these tubes, into which the air cannot penetrate, that not- 
 withstanding the crystallizing quality of the waters, yet in the exclusion of the air it 
 can have no°operation." — This series of elegant grottoes is the property of Sir \VilHam 
 Bagshaw, whose lady was among the first of those who ventured to explore them, and 
 who, on that occasion, bestowed upon them the names by which they are distingruished. 
 Cave Dale. — The entrance into which is through a rocky portal about six feet 
 wide, is a deep ravine closely hemmed in with rock on every side ; and, with one 
 solitary exception, neither shrub nor tree is to be seen within it. Rude weather- 
 beaten cra^rs, with occasionally a stripe of thin mossy verdure inserted between, con- 
 stitute the'two sides of the dell, which, in some places, is from eighty to one hundred 
 paces wide, and in others not more than twenty or thirty. About two-thirds 
 up the dell,' the view towards Castleton has a wilderness about it that no other land- 
 scape in the same neighbourhood possesses. The castle, seated on the extreme verge 
 of a narrow ridge of rock, looks fearfully tremendous, borrowing importance from the
 
 CASTLETON. 69 
 
 situation it occupies amongst the rocks and precipices that are thrown around it. 
 Near the village, where the two sides of the dell approximate, a pleasing view is ad- 
 mitted of distant hills, whose shadowy summits and cultivated slopes give a charac- 
 ter of loveliness to the remote parts of the scene. At the upper extremity of Cave 
 Dale a contracted pass, similar in dimensions and appearance to the one by which we 
 had entered, dismissed us into a more open valley. The path, though still slippery 
 and rugged, became less precipitous as we proceeded, and we followed its windings 
 until we attained the top of an extensive eminence, where we joined the road that 
 leads from Castleton to Tideswell. Here we were amply rewarded for the toil we had 
 sustained, by one of the most delightful landscapes in any part of the Peak. ^Ve 
 stood on an immense sv>feep of hill extending on our right beyond High-Low to the 
 river Derwent, where it meets that part of the East Moor called Millstone Edge, in 
 the vicinity of Hathersage; from whence another chain of mountains, of greater alti- 
 tude, is continued in a westerly direction by Win-Hill, Lose-Hill, and Mam Tor ; 
 thence, turning to the south and south east by the Winnats and Long-Cliff, the circuit 
 terminates at the place where we stood, forming altogether, a continued range of 
 eighteen or twenty miles of lofty hills, within whose capacious circle lie the dales of 
 Hathersage, Brough, Hope, and Castleton, rich in beauteous meadows, and adorned 
 with woods and cottages and winding streams. 
 
 About half a mile from the entrance of the Cave-valley is a stratum of basalt, 
 which appears at the surface, and, in one part, assumes somewhat of the form of an 
 hexagonal column, and is similar, in texture and hardness, to those of StafFa, in the 
 Hebrides, and of the Giant's Causeway, in Ireland. Incorporated in it is crystal- 
 lized quartz, approaching in appearance to chalcedony. This column is part of a vast 
 basaltic mass of great thickness and considerable dip, which ranges north and south 
 for fifty or sixty yards, and is covered with a thin stratum of a substance resembling 
 half baked clay. In its immediate neighbourhood is a stratum of toadstone ; some 
 of which is decomposed, and appears like indurated clay, full of holes, and variegated 
 with green spots, and calcarious s])ar ; other specimens are extremely hardj with 
 zeolite and jasper occasionally occurring in them. 
 
 Castleton is in this respect of the first importance ; it is an epitome of all that the 
 Peak of Derbyshire contains : hills, rocks, caverns, mines, fossils, and minerals are 
 here congregated together, presenting a rich variety of materials for study and con- 
 templation. Among the most extraordinary productions of this district, the mineral 
 Caoutchouc, or elastic bitumen, may be classed: Mr. Mawe ranks it among inflam- 
 mable ores : it is of a dark brownish colour, and it is easily compressed ; but the same 
 piece is not always equally elastic : when lighted, it emits a beautiiul white flame, 
 similar to gas-light. Hitherto, this curious mineral has not been discovered in any 
 other part of Derbyshire, and a more singular product of nature is but rarely found. 
 
 About a mile east of C'astleton is Dirtlow-Mine, a jilace that was visited by Fanjas 
 de St. Fond, for the purpose of investigating tlie stratum of loadstone there, in which 
 lead ore is said to exist. It was his particular object to disprove the theory of ^^ hite- 
 hurst, and, as he observes, " to establish, by indisputable fact where any doubt re- 
 mained on the subject, that the toadstone of Derbysiiire is not a product of volcanic 
 fire ; and he concludes his observations by triumphantly remarking, " that the ex- 
 istence of lead ore in the trapp is a certain proof that it is not the product of fire. 
 
 The late Mr. Mawe, in the preface to his " Mineralogy of Derbyshire," observes, 
 ''that for the purpose of obtaining mineralogical information, Castleton seems to be 
 the best situation, where such a variety of strata, mines, and minerals occur, as per- 
 haps no situation in this kingdom can boast. The various mines and veins of 
 ore," he ailds, " are of the first consequence, while the mountains around present a 
 variety of strata worthy the attention of the geologist." 
 
 The spar IMuseums of Mr. Needham and Mr. Hall are at all times entertaining 
 and attractive. 
 
 Mrs. Margaret \^^ragg, of the Castle Inn, keeps good post chaises and horses, and 
 affords every accommodation to the visitors.
 
 70 
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 BAKE^VELL. The antiquity of the town of Bakewell may be traced to a very 
 
 Badecanwiiian, early period. It is first mentioned in history shortly after the 
 
 Bauqudie.' termination of the heptarchy. The parish of which this town is 
 
 the head is extensive and populous, but the town itself is not large. 
 
 It stands in the hundred of High Peak, and is delightfully situate on the western 
 
 bank of the "V^'ve. It is 12 m. W. of Chesterfield; 12 m. S. of Buxton; 16 ra. 
 
 S. M'. of Sheffield ; 10 m. N. "\V^ of Matlock ; 12 m. N. M'. of AVirksworth ; 27 m. 
 
 N. W. of Derby ; and 152 m. N. N. W. of London. 
 
 Bakewell is a market-town, a township, a constablery, and parish, and is esteemed 
 to be the chief town of the High Peak hundred, and in the archdeaconry of Derby. 
 The population consists of about 1900 inhabitants, residing in about 360 houses. 
 Of this population there are 54 families employed at Messrs. ArkwTights' cotton 
 factory; 37 individuals are shoemakers; 18 blacksmiths; 21 joiners and cabinet 
 makers ; 9 carpenters ; 12 are employed at the marble works ; and the rest are chiefly 
 engaged in agriculture, mining, chertstone getting, of which large quantities are sent 
 to the Staffordshire potteries, professional pm-suits, or are living independent. 
 
 The market-day is held on Friday, and a fat-cattle market every Monday fort- 
 night. The market place is one of the most complete in the county. The following 
 fairs are held, for horses, cattle, &c. on Easter-Monday, "Wliit-^Ionday, 26th of 
 August, the first Monday after the 20th of October, and the 11th of November. 
 
 The parish of Bakewell comprises nine parochial chapelries, and fourteen town- 
 ships. In the following enumeration, the population is stated according to the par- 
 liamentary returns of 1801, 1811, and 1821. The acreage and the estimated annual 
 rental of the buildings and land in each township are given with accuracy, from 
 authentic documents. 
 
 BAKEWELL PARISH.* 
 
 Ashford chapelry 
 
 Bakewell vicarage 
 
 Baslow chapelry 
 
 Beeley chapelry 
 
 Blackwell, in the chap, of Taddington 
 
 Brushfield township 
 
 Bubnell township 
 
 Buxton chapelry, part of 
 
 Calvcr township 
 
 Chelmorton chapelry 
 
 Curbar township 
 
 Flagg township 
 
 Froggatt township 
 
 Hadilon, Over, township 
 
 , Nether, extra parochial 
 
 Harthill or Hartle township 
 
 Hassop toivnship 
 
 Longstone, Great, and Holme chapelry 
 
 Lon(;stone, Little, township 
 
 Monyash chapelry 
 
 Rowland township 
 
 Rowslcy, Great, township 
 
 Sheldon chapelry 
 
 Tail<lington and Priestclifl' chapelry 
 
 Wardlow, part of 
 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 
 Acreage. 
 
 Estimated 
 Annual Rental 
 
 ISOl. 
 Persons. 
 
 ISll. 
 Persons 
 
 Hmises. 
 
 1821. 
 Fnmilifs. Per sons- 
 
 678 
 
 624 
 
 52 
 
 5'.' 
 
 223 
 
 2562i 
 
 5175 11 2 
 
 1412 
 
 1 18.5 
 
 557 
 
 .■586 
 
 1-82 
 
 2992 
 
 &W2 11 8 
 
 817 
 
 920 
 
 165 
 
 ]T6 
 
 872 
 
 2973 
 
 1961 10 10 
 
 268 
 
 272 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 350 
 
 iioil 
 
 882 10 
 
 44 
 
 51 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 40 
 
 660+ 
 
 396 10 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 96 
 
 2t81 
 
 1223 5 10 
 
 760 
 
 954 
 
 184 
 
 l88 
 
 1036 
 
 17261 
 
 5810 4 2 
 
 494 
 
 555 
 
 115 
 
 121 
 
 604 
 
 850 
 
 822 
 
 201 
 
 245 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 262 
 
 18S8i 
 
 1772 19 2 
 
 188 
 
 364 
 
 65 
 
 71 
 
 592 
 
 1202 
 
 620 18 
 
 101 
 
 168 
 
 47 
 
 49 
 
 220 
 
 1771 
 
 1475 10 
 
 113 
 
 102 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
 179 
 
 429 
 
 234 16 8 
 
 204 
 
 258 
 
 54 
 
 56 
 
 266 
 
 1349J\ 
 14S0 / 
 
 5011 12 6 
 
 40 
 
 54 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 60 
 
 904 
 
 
 115 
 
 144 
 
 25 
 
 50 
 
 128 
 
 800 
 
 1457 
 
 589 
 
 489 
 
 96 
 
 96 
 
 442 
 
 2826 
 
 2574 16 
 
 152 
 
 142 
 
 31 
 
 34 
 
 145 
 
 1107 
 
 777 5 10 
 
 550 
 
 516 
 
 78 
 
 78 
 
 381 
 
 2CH^ 
 
 2388 
 
 101 
 
 117 
 
 18 
 
 23 
 
 109 
 
 450 
 
 483 18 
 
 21 S 
 
 199 
 
 41 
 
 42 
 
 258 
 
 553 
 
 1202 18 
 
 127 
 
 125 
 
 52 
 
 52 
 
 145 
 
 loeojj 
 
 807 6 8 
 
 284 
 
 515 
 
 95 
 
 95 
 
 465 
 
 2800 
 553 
 
 2706 10 10 
 
 40,319 142.567 15 4 
 
 Villages and places in the parish of Bakewell, not included in the above list : — 
 
 • A part of Cbatsworth is we bebeve in Bakewell parish.
 
 BAKEWELL. 71 
 
 Alport^ part of ; Calton; Clodhall farm ; Cowil ale; Harwood Grange ; Kinps Stem- 
 dale; Monsal Dale ; One Ash; Ox Close ; Shacklow : Sherbrook ; and Staden. 
 
 Of the 169.5 families 662 are chiefly employed in agriculture, 590 in trade or handi- 
 craft, and 4t3 in mining, limestone getting and burning, in gentlemen's service, pro- 
 fessional pursuits, or are living inde])endent. 
 
 The basis of the land, which consists of 2992 acres, is limestone. The quality is 
 good, and about 400 acres are planted : one-fourth of the remainder is arable, and 
 there are nearly 2100 acres of meadow and pasture land. The average rental per 
 acre is about 35s. The farms are not large ; none of them exceeding 300 acres. The 
 average annual amount of the poors' rate is £520. That of the county rates amount 
 to £134. The constables' accounts amount to £30. Salaries £10. Mole-catcher 
 £10. Tradesmen's bills £28. The whole parochial expenses amounting to about 
 £850. per annum. The paupers are generally maintained at their respective abodes, 
 except a few that are sent to the House of Industry at Chapel-en-le-Frith: to which 
 the inhabitants subscribe, and the pauper children are apprenticed to trades. 
 
 Between the gritstone and Umestone strata which surround the town, and constitute 
 much of the subsoil of the parish, there is a deep bed of shale, which, being of an 
 argillaceous nature and retentive of moisture, forms excellent pasture land.* The 
 whole extent of the parish is in length from N. W. to S. E. more than twenty miles, 
 and its average breadth exceeds eight. The commons about Bakewell and Over 
 Haddon were formerly one continued dreary waste, but now they present a scene of 
 enclosures interspersed very tastefully with wide spreading plantations, belonging to 
 the Duke of Rutland. 
 
 Here we behold a smiling change of scene. 
 Where earth-born russet yields to lively green; 
 Rich pastures rise where deserts spread before. 
 And barren wastes recruit the less'ning store. 
 
 The township of Bakewell is divided among 53 resident, and 1 7 non-resident free- 
 holders. The Duke of Rutland is the largest proprietor. His Grace's estate here 
 being 1823 acres, and a great part of the buildings in the town ; and, as lord of the 
 manor, his Grace holds a court annually in the town. Petty sessions are also held on 
 the first and third Fridays of every month, by the county magistrates in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 There are two chapels ; one belonging to the Wesleyan IMethodists, and the other 
 to the Independents. There are three Sunday schools, supported by voluntary con- 
 tribution, in which about 300 children of both sexes are instructed. Of Friendly 
 Societies there are two for men and one for women, they consist altogether of 450 
 members. In the township there are eight public houses; and two county bridges. 
 The houses are built of lime or gritstone, obtained in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The black marble-quarries in the neighbourhood, belonging to the Duke of Rut- 
 land, produce blocks of the finest quality, which are here sawn and poUshed for va- 
 rious uses, and exported to all jiarts of the world. 
 
 Under the munificent care of the present illustrious possessor, the town of Bake- 
 well has been greatly improved. The bath over the chalybeate tonic spring is ele- 
 gant and commodious. The excellent inn, the beauties of the surrounding country, 
 the clear trout streams, the great thoroughfare, and the interesting objects in the im- 
 mediate vicinity have become the resort of numerous visitors. The permission to fish 
 in the beautiful and romantic river AV^ye, whicli flows past the western skirts of the 
 town, is generously granted by his Grace of Rutland to the frequenters of the bath 
 and the neighbouring inn, now kept by Mr. and Mrs. (ireaves. 
 
 The ancient bath, from which the town derives its name, and which is supposed 
 to have been in use, and to have obtained celebrity during a long period previously 
 
 * Two miles from Bakewell upon the top of a hill, is a piece of ground of this strange nature: it is a field 
 which, for the most part, has very good grass in it; but if a horse be put into it, it will fat him or kill him in- 
 a month's time, as the opinion prevails thereabout. Extracted from Remarks on the peculiarities aud varie- 
 ties of the soil in the High I'eak in the Magna Brita'nnia.
 
 72 BAKEWELL. 
 
 to the time of Edward the Elder, is now in the possession of the ingenious and intel- 
 ligent Mr. 'White AVatson, F. L. S. a gentleman liighly distinguished for his 
 geological researches, and whose collection* of fossils attracts many visitors from 
 Matlock and Buxton. 
 
 The waters of Bakewell were certainly known to the Romans. The Saxon name 
 Baddecanwell, is derived from the baths. The tepid chalybeate spring does not ex- 
 ceed 59 or 60^. The water, which was analysed by the late C. Sylvester, is recom- 
 mended as a tonic, and as a bath for chronic rheumatism. A large bathing house was 
 erected over this spring in 1 697. It has been re-opened by the directions of the Duke 
 of Rutland. Two shower-baths of cUfferent powers have been added, and a news 
 room has been estabhshed on the same premises. The water of this spring was found 
 to contain, in 10 quarts, wine measure, 75 grains of crystallized sulphate of lime, 20 
 grains super-carbonate of hme, 2*2 grains crystallized sulphate of magnesia, 1-6 grain 
 muriate of magnesia, 3-1 grains supercarbonate of iron ; in aU 121-7 grains. Another 
 spring at Bakewell has been found to contain in 60 quarts, 13 cubic inches of sul- 
 phurated hvdrogen, but a complete analysis has not yet, we believe, been eflFected. 
 The temperature is the same as common water, and its medicinal quaUties resemble 
 those of the spring at Kedleston. 
 
 In Bndtquelle, with eight berewicks, king Edward had three carucates of land to 
 be taxed. Land to eighteen ploughs, and thirty-three villanes and nine bordars. 
 There are two priests and a church, and under them two villanes andjive bordars j all 
 these having eleven ploughs. There is one knight having sixteen acres of land, and 
 one lead mine, and eighty acres of meadow. Coppice-wood one mile long and one 
 broad. Three carucates of that land belong to the church. Henry de Ftrrieres claims 
 one carucate in Hadune. These are berewicks of this manor : Hadune, Holun, Reus- 
 ley, Bertun, Cranchesberie, Aneise, Mancis, and Haduna. D. B. 294.. 
 
 In the Test, de Neville, p. 17, there is a passage, mentioning Bakewell, which 
 may be thus translated : " The town of Bakewell is in the donation of our Lord the 
 King ; and Ralph Gernun holds it by the gift of king Richard, and it is worth, per 
 annum, £'16. From the Calend. Inquis. Post Jlort. it appears that, in the time of 
 Edward I. William de Gernun held Bakewell as a feofFeraent of the honour of Pev- 
 erel of Nottingham. Brown Willis, esq. in the Xotitia ParUamentaria, says, Bake- 
 well hath more plain signs of being a borough town than Chesterfield. The Saxons 
 call it Baddecanwell, it is probable from the baths, for the Saxons call baths bade and 
 baden, (as the Germans do at this day). Marianus tells us, that king Edward the 
 Elder made this place a borough. 
 
 That Bakewell was a place of repute at a very ancient period there can be little 
 doubt, and, accordingly we find, that it was one of the positions chosen by Edward 
 the Elder for a military post to overawe the disaffected Mercians, who reluctantly 
 submitted to the throne of Wessex, and among whom even the Danes appear to have 
 had many partisans. It was after Edward had deprived Elvina, the daughter of his 
 heroic sister Ethelfleda, of the Mercian government, that he fortified N'ottinghara, 
 and marched from that town to Bakewell, near to which he raised extensive ramparts^f 
 
 » This rich and scientific collection merits particular attention. It is distributed into three classes. 
 
 1. The productions of Derbyshire only, containing 15o0 specimens of rocks, ores, crystallizations, petrifac- 
 tions, &c. 
 
 2. Specimens of most of the known species of fossils, properly arranged and described after Werner. 
 5. Specimens of those minerals only which are employed in the arts and manufactures. 
 
 The following curious relics of antiquity are also in the possession of Mr. White Watson, with many others: 
 
 1. A basaltic head of an axe, found a few years since on Stanton moor. 
 
 2. A basaltic celt, discovered near Haildon-hall, in N'ovember 1795. 
 
 5. An entire urn of baked earth, found in a barrow on Stanton moor, July 15, 1799, full of burnt bones. 
 
 4. A small lamp, found in another urn. about the same time and place; with the heads of aspear and arrow, 
 of flint, which were among the burnt bones contained in the urn. 
 
 5. A glass vessel, neatly ornamented and hermetically sealed, supposed to be a lachrymatory: this was found 
 beneath a heap of stones near HaHdon-hall. in 1801. 
 
 6. A square tile, on which the letters of the alphabet are impressed in Saxon characters. 
 
 t On the left hand of the bridle-road from Bakewell to Chatsworth, there is a square plot in a pasture, with 
 a tumulus in it, which is hollow at the top, with a few thorns growing on its sides. This was part of the ram- 
 part built bv Elward the Elder, A. D. 924, which was of great extent, as appears by foundations occasionally 
 discovered, but there is not a stone of it to be seen. This tumulus is called Castle-hiil, and near it was recently 
 found a copper-bolt-head, covered with green rust* This is imagined to have been an instrument discharged
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 7S 
 
 the mounds of which can be traced at present, in the neighbouring meadows, one 
 of which is called Castle-Field, and ot!iers are named A\'arden Close, Court- Yard, 
 and Garlands Close, and made it the seat of jurisdiction for the High Peak hundred. 
 
 This domain formed part of the territory liestowed by AV'illiam tlie Conqueror, on 
 his natural son William de Peverel, whose immediate descendant gave two parts of 
 the tithe of the demesne of Bakewell to the monastery of Lenton in Nottinghamshire. 
 In 1 Edward II. Robert Joice of Burton left fourteen messuages and fourteen vir- 
 gates of land to his son Richard, and his male heirs. This manor afterwards passed 
 to the Gernons, of Essex. In the year 1330, a claim M-as made by John Gernon to 
 hold a market at Bakewell every Monday ; and it was then acknowledged that the right 
 of holding a fair on the eve or vigil of Sts. Philip and James had been granted to 
 William de Gernon nearly a hundred years before. 
 
 The Gernons originally obtained jjossession of Bakewell as a donation from king 
 John; the estates of the Pevcrels having been previously forfeited. Sir John Ger- 
 non, who died in 1383, left heiresses, who married Botftourt and Peyton. The 
 manor then j)assed by means of females into various families, and, in l,j()2, we find 
 it in possession, by purchase of 8ir Henry Vernon. This Sir Henry was governor 
 of Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. who is said to have resided with him at Haddon. 
 The Gernons had a hall or castle on the border of the moors, called Moor Hali. 
 His Grace the Duke of Rutland, who pays a fee farm rent, is the present lord of the 
 manor and principal proprietor of Bakewell. 
 
 The church at Bakewell is chiefly of gothic architecture, and is built in the form of 
 a cross. The octangular tower, crowned with a lofty spire, was long admired as an 
 interesting object ; but, as the structure was supposed to have become insecure, this 
 
 from some engine The passage in the Saxon Chronicles, merely states that Edward the FIdor, after fortifying 
 
 N()Uint;ham, "marched into Peak-land, to Hadecanwyllan (Ihe bii/hhig-u'cil) and coninianded a town to be 
 budt m its neighbourhood, and to be strengtliened by a garrison." — From tins we miijht conelude, that there 
 weie only a few buildings previously about the bathing-well ; and that the town had its origin in this command 
 of Kdward. The sujiposition of Matianus Scotus and others, that Castleton was the town alludtd to, is a very 
 vague conjecture. 
 
 K
 
 74 
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 portion of the buildinc; was taken down in the year 1826. Three different styles of 
 building, distinctly exhibiting the architecture of different periods. The western part 
 of the nave is plain Saxon, but at the west end there is an arch highly enriched with 
 Saxon ornaments. All this portion of the edifice was probably erected before the 
 Norman conquest ; the remainder of the church seems to have been the work of the 
 fifteenth century, with the exception of the pillars that support the tower, which are 
 evideiitly older than that period, though not so ancient as the west end of the nave. 
 On the south side of the chancel there are three stone stalls, and a compartment for 
 the holy water. Several stone coffins have been dug up, and in one was found a 
 chalice which contained some coins. The church is situate on an eminence above 
 the principd part of the town, and is dedicated to All Saints. The church has lately 
 been enriched with eight new bells, of the value of £800. and an organ, the erection 
 of which cost £300. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and Cha])ter of 
 Lichfield, valued in the king's books at £4-0. and yearly tenths £2. The present value 
 is above £400. per annum. The Rev. Francis Hodgson is the present incumbent. It 
 is a peculiar in the diocess of Lichfield and Coventry. 
 
 At the Reformation, as much land and tithes were sold off, by the Dean and Chap- 
 ter of Lichfield, as, it is computed, would now be worth £3000. per annum. 
 
 By the Doomsday Book, we fiud two priests for the parish of Bakewell. In the 
 reign of king John, the church was granted to the canons of Lichfield ;* and in return 
 for this grant, one of the prebendaries of that cathedral was to say mass for the soul of 
 the king and his ancestors.t \n a decree of the archbishop of Canterbury, for repair- 
 ing and ornamenting chapels, belonging to parish churches, which was dated in the 
 year 1280, complaint was made that the deacon and subdeacon of Bakewell were 
 obliged to beg for tlieir bread. The archbishop therefore ordered that they should eat 
 at the table of the vicar. To provide for such an increase of expense, the vicar, who, 
 before, had twenty marks, was ordered an additional allowance of ten marks for the 
 support of two priests with a deacon, sub-deacon and clerk at his table : and, besides, 
 one mark annually for the deacon, and ten shillings for the sub-deacon were allowed 
 for the purchase of clothes. The archbishop also ordered that two scholastic clerks, 
 
 • The following is a translation of the grant for life of the Third Prebend in the Church of Bakewell for an 
 angel of gold : 
 
 " To all to whom the present letters may come; H. by the Divine mercy. Bishop of Coventry and Dean of 
 I.iohfield, wishes health in the truth to the Chapter of this Church. All of you may have known that the Lord 
 John Earl of Moreton, granted in perpetuity and in jiure charity, to us and to our church of Lichfield, the 
 church of Bakewell with all belongini; thereto, and that the canon Matheus, at the time of the donation, pos- 
 sessed the third prebend in that church: so that we neither ought, nor are we willing lo deprive him of that 
 benefice, but we grant to him that he may possess that benefice entirely all the days of his life, on paying 
 therefore, on the feast of St. Michael every year, to the chapter of Lichfield, one angel of gold, as an ackiiow- 
 ledgment. 
 
 t The church at Bakewell was given by king John to the church of St. Cedd, of Lichfield, of which gift the 
 following is a confirmation : 
 
 Confirrnatio regis Henrici III. de donatione ecclesije de Bathekewelle ecelesiae Sancti Ceddi Lichf. per R. 
 Johannem facta. 
 
 " Henricus Dei Gratia Rex Anglise, Dominus Iliberniae, et Dux Aquitanis, Archiepiscopis, &c. salutem: 
 inspexiinus cartam quam inclytas recordationis Johannes quondam Kcx Anglias pater no.~ter dum fuit Comers 
 Moriton fecit ecclesiie Sanctse Maria; et Sancti Cedda; de Lichf. de ecclesia de Bathekewelle, cum omnibus prae- 
 bendis ejusdem ecelesiae iu hec verba ; ' Universis Sanctae Matris Ecclesise ad quos literae praisentes pervenerint 
 Johannes Comes Moriton salutum : L'niversitati vestra; notum facio, me. pro amore Dii, et pro salute anima» 
 meae itotasse, et in pcrpetuam clemosinam concessisse ecclesis SanctK Maria; et Sancti Cedilse Lichfi>-ld : Ecde- 
 siain de Bathecwell, cum omnibus jiraebendis ejusdem ecclesias. et cum omnibus qua; ad eannem ecchsiam, vel 
 pra;i)endas pertinent, ut secundum ordinationem clarisstmi Amici Hugonis ejusiiem eccltsia; Episcopi, vel in 
 
 prsbendas cccli-siae de Lichfeld. vel in conmium-m canonicorum, sive alio niodo quo voluerit vel ex|)e- 
 
 dire PrebL-nila; de Baucwcll in proprietatem Ecelesiae de Lichfeld ilebeant converti ; salvo tamen servitio 
 
 trium prcsbiterorum, qui Ecclesia de Baucwell de<ervient, et juxia arbitrium Ejiiscopi ratioiiabilem sustentati- 
 onem habebunt; Ordinationem nam(iue pra;fati Episcopi, quam super hi^c fccerit ratam habeo, et futuris tem- 
 poribus semper habcbo, Ecclesia autem <le Lichfield concessit mihi unum presbitorum i)ra;bendarium in Eccle- 
 sia de Lichfield, qui singulis diebus vita; meje luissam cautabit pro sanitate et incolumiiaie mea ; et postmor- 
 tem meani omnibus diebus missa pro salute anima; mcae cantabitnr imperpetuum: ut igitur ha?e mea donatio, 
 nulla futerorum temporum malignitate valcat divdli; sed (juod Deo datum est semper del>eat inviolabiter ob- 
 scrvari, di>nationem ipsain super \ltare Domiiiieuin propria nianu feci, et sigilli mei impressione corroboravi : 
 Hiis testibus. &c. datun apud Lichf. per manum Stephani lUdell cauccllarii nostri, mense .\pri!is in Cra-stino 
 Paschae anno tertio Regni Regis Kicardi.' Nos autem prasdictas donationein et concessionem ratas habentes et 
 gratas, cas pro nobis et hieredibus nostris, quantum in nobis est, coiicedimus et confirmamus, sicut carta pra> 
 dicta rationabiliter testatur. Hiis testibus, &c. Datum apud Kenilleworth per niauum uostram septimo die 
 Septembris anno regni nostri quin(|U.ayessimo."
 
 BAKEWELL. 75 
 
 whose occupation consisted chiefly in carrying about the holy water on the Sundays 
 and festivals in the church and chapels of the parish, should be chosen and maintain- 
 ed out of the donations of the parishioners. He also insisted that the chapels of 'i'ad- 
 dington, Longstone and Baslow should be supplied by the chapter with fit priests, 
 and til at the chapter and parishioners should contribute in equal proportions for their 
 maintenance, each paying at the least the sum of two marks and a half. 
 
 Before the Reformation, there were two chantries in Bakewell church : one at the 
 altar of the Holy Cross, founded in 1365, by Sir Godfrey Foljambe and Avena his 
 wife, valued at £6. 6s. 2d. 1 Edward VI. ; the other at the altar of the Virgin Mary, 
 valued at £4. 
 
 Ignorance and superstition prevailed so much in the fourteenth century, that the 
 notion and idea of masses and prayers, as beneficial both for the living and the dead, 
 ran very high amongst all classes of people, insomuch that charities for that purpose 
 were founded by well disposed christians throughout the kingdom. Amongst the 
 rest. Sir Godfrey Foljambe, knt. then living at Hassop, instituted, and probably with 
 the assistance of others, and in particular of the guild or fraternity of the Holy Cross 
 at Bakewell, a foundation of this nature in the parish church of Bakewell, 44 Edward 
 III. A. D. 1371. A royal license, we must suppose, was first obtained for the pur- 
 pose, in regard to the statute of Mortmain ; then he passed a grant of lands and tene- 
 ments for the endowment of his chantry ; and in the third place he^ prescribes, by 
 another instrument, all rules and orders concerning it, as thus : " That Roger de 
 Typeshelf be the first chantry priest, and he and his successors enjoy the lands. In 
 another deed by the king's license it is settled, that he pray for the healthful estate of 
 Sir Godfrey Foljambe* and Ann his wife, and their children, while they live, and 
 after their decease, for their souls, and the souls of their parents, and the brotherhood 
 of the guild of the Holy Cross at Bakewell, and all the faithful living and dead, at the 
 altar of the Holy Cross, in the nave of the parish church, built by tliu said Cross ; and 
 that the said Roger and his successors be called keepers of the said Altar, and he or 
 they celebrate mass in no other place, unless there be lawful impediment. And if 
 the chaplain, without lawful cause, abstain from celebrating mass, that another fit 
 chaplain be admitted, at the pleasure of the vicar of Bakewell. The chaplain not to 
 be three days away without license from the lord of Hassop for the time being, if the 
 lord reside there, otherwise without the leave of the vicar. On a vacancy, the lord of 
 Hassop was to present, within fifteen days, to the dean and chapter of Lichfield, and 
 they to give institution, &c &c." Brian RowclifF was patron of this chantry 25 
 Henry VIII. and succeeded to it in this manner. The heiress of Foljambe, great 
 grand-daughter of the founder, who died 50 Edward III. married Sir Robert Plomp- 
 ton, and Margaret, one of the two co-heirs of that family, married Sir John Rochley, 
 of RowclifF, who died 5 Henry VIII. and probably was father of Brian. Thomas 
 Ilawson was chantry-priest in the time of Henry VIII. when the value of this pre- 
 ferment was rated at £4. per annum. 
 
 A stone was placed over the great window of the chantry at Bakewell, in length 
 two feet, and in breadth one foot seven inches, with the following inscription round 
 the top or face of the stone : Dumiiius Thomas Ruwson, A. D. AICCCCCXV^ Canon 
 S. Critcis clc Bakewell. 
 
 The chantry-house, erected probably about the time of Edward III. being gone to 
 decay, Rawson made the necessary repairs, and put up this stone for a memorial 
 thereof; it was fixed in the gable end, being tlie most visible place. An engraving 
 of it is in the Antiquarian Repository. 
 
 On the 6th of i^ugust, 1828, an action was tried at the Derby assizes, arising out 
 of proceedings in the ecclesiastical court, in which the Chapelry of Taddington resisted 
 the mode of assessment for re-building the spire of Bakewell church. The church- 
 wardens had appealed against the rate being determined by the scores of cattle. On 
 the other side it was contended that this mode of assessment had been the custom time 
 out of mind. During this trial, it was proved that the parish of Bakewell hud pre- 
 
 • Sir Godfrey had two wives: Ann was the first.
 
 76 
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 served some very ancient records, more ancient indeed than most parishes, and that 
 the custom upon which the churchwardens had acted, had existed for at least a period 
 of 190 years. JNIr. Thomas Hancock, churchwarden of Bakewell, produced the 
 parish books, and from these it appeared, that, on the 15th of September, 1038, the 
 following were the score-rates : 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 The parish church of Bnkewell was rated at 18 score, at 6d. each beast, and the sum received 9 
 
 LdiK-stone 13 6 10 
 
 Baslow 14 7 
 
 Monyash 10 „ 5 
 
 C'helmorton 13 6 10 
 
 Part of Buxton 16 « 8 
 
 8 
 
 5 10 
 
 2 
 
 _ 3 
 
 '.' 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 Over Haddon 4 2 
 
 Ta.lilington 16 . 
 
 Ashfoni 11 . 
 
 Bceley 4 . 
 
 Sheldon 6 . 
 
 Kowsley 4 . 
 
 Rowland ij. 
 
 Hassop 4 
 
 A verdict was obtained by Taddington, and the rates have been subsequently 
 amended. Agreeably to a recent regulation, we believe that the rate upon each town- 
 ship is now double the above amount. 
 
 Within the church there are the following monumental inscriptions, arms, &c. 
 
 In the vestry, within the south transept, is the effigy, in alabaster, of a knight in 
 plate-armour, mail gorget, and pointed helmet, with a richly ornamented bandeau, 
 his pillow being supported by angels. This monument was erected to the memory of 
 Sir Thomas AV'endesley, knt. who was mortally wounded at the battle of Shrewsbury, 
 lighting on the side of the house of Lancaster. 
 ARMS. Argent, a bend. Gules. 
 
 Against an arch, on the south side of the nave, is the monument of Sir Godfrey 
 Foljambe, who died in 1376, and his Lady, Avena, who died in 1383, with half 
 length figures, as represented in the engraving, carved in alabaster, in alto relievo, 
 under a canopy. He is represented in a pointed helmet, and plate armour; over his
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 77 
 
 head is a shield, with the arms of Foljambe, a bend between six escallop-shells. 
 Over the Lady, a shield of arms, being seme'e of fleurs-de-lis. See inscription in the 
 church notes. 
 
 Arms and Monumental Inscriptions in the Church. 
 
 U|)on a talilct over the mural momimfiit, in the family carved in wood. Upon his helmet is inscribed 
 
 clianlry of the Holy (.ross, is a l.atni inscription, of IHC NAZ A REN. See Hrailsford's Monumental In- 
 
 wliicli the following is a translation : scriptions of Derbyshire. 
 
 tJoiilrfv Foljainbi'. knt. and Avena his wife, dauph. Adjoining the vestry are several monuments of the 
 
 ter of Darlev. of Darlev, (wlio afterwariis married A'rrniins and Manners' families. In the centre is the 
 
 Richard de (ireene, knl.l Lord and I.adv of the allar-tonib or cenotaph of Sir George Vernon, knt. 
 
 Manors of Hassop, Okel)roke, Elton, Stanton, OarUv, and his two wives, eniiclied with tignres in l)as. relief, 
 
 Overhall, and I.okhawe, founded this chantry ni hon. of ladies holding shields of arms ; on it lies the ettigy 
 
 our of the Holy Cross, in the .'iilih year of the reign of of a knight, in plate.armour and surcoat. with straiglit 
 
 Knig Eiiward the 1 hird, i.'iHti. ' Godfrey died on hair and a long l)eard. having a doul)le chain about his 
 
 'Ihursdav next after the Feast of the Ascension of our nick, with the follow ing inscriptmu ; 
 
 Lord, in'thc fiOlh year of the same king ; and Avena Here l>eth .Sir George A'ernon, knt. deceased ye 
 
 died on Saturday next after the Feast of the Nativity <lave of anno lotil. and Danie Margaret his 
 
 of the blessed Virgin Marv, in the (ith year of the wvffe, dawghter of Sir t.vlbert TavUbovs, deceased 
 
 reign of King Richard the Second, l:i8.i. ye da\e of I.5(i... ; and aiso Dame Mawde 
 
 N. li. The dates are taken from the Escheat Rolls, his wyfje, dawghter to Su- Raiphe Langford, deceased 
 
 which contain the inquisition post mortem, 50th of the ..!... daye of anno loti... whose solles God 
 
 Edward '1 hird. No. 'U. pardon. 
 
 In the vestry is the efligv, in a'abaster, of [The blanks are the same in the original.] 
 
 Sir 'I'homas WendrsUy de VVendesley, who was On the right is a monument for Sir John Manners, 
 
 mortally wounded at the battle of Shrewsbury, Uh of with this inscription : 
 
 Henry the IV. HO.i, and was buried at Bakewell, Here lyeth Sir John Maimers, of Haddon, knt. 
 
 where formerly were several shields of arms of his second son of Thomas, Earl of Rutland, whodycd the
 
 78 
 
 BAKE WELL. 
 
 4th of June, Ifill, and Dorothie his wife, one of the 
 daughtersand heirs of Sir Oeorpe Vernon, of Haddon, 
 knt. »ho deceased 14th dav of June, in the i6th vear 
 of the reign of Queen F.lizabeih, I.SSi. 
 To the right of the window, on a mural monument, 
 is this ill^cription : 
 Here lyeth buried John Manners, gentleman, third 
 son of Sir John Manners, knt. who died the 16th day 
 of Jul V, in the year of our Lord God, 1590, being of the 
 age of U years. 
 
 To the left is an elegant monument for Sir George 
 Manners, knt. with a I^lin inscription, of which the 
 following is a translation: 
 
 Sir George Manners, of Haddon, knt. here waits the 
 resurrection of the just in Clirist. He married Grace, 
 second daughter of Henry Pierrepont, knt. who after- 
 wards bore to him four sons and five daughters, and 
 lived with him in holv wedlock ihirtv years. She 
 caused him to be buried with his forefalhe'rs, and then 
 l>laced this monument, at her own expense, as a per- 
 petual memorial of their conjugal faith, and she join- 
 ed the figure of his body with hers, having vowed 
 their ashes and bones should be laid together ; hedied 
 
 2.•^rd April, 1623, aged M; she died The 
 
 figures areall represented kneeling on cushions, under 
 canopies. 1 he eldest son died in infancv ; the other 
 male figures are in armour. At the fop of the monu. 
 ment is written, "The dav of a man's death is belter 
 than the day of his birth ;" between the knight and 
 liis ladv, " 1 hy pravers and thine alms are gone up 
 before God;" at the feet of the knight, "Christ is to 
 me both in death and life an advantage ;" at the feet 
 of the lady, " I shall go to him, he shall not return 
 to me," over the infant, "mine age is nothing in 
 respect of thee;" over the second son, " one generation 
 passeth and another Cometh ;" over the 3rd son, " My 
 days were but a span long ;" over the -Ith son, " By 
 the grace of God I am what I am ;" over the eldest 
 daughter, " A virtuous woman is a crown to her hus- 
 band ;" 2nd daughter, " The wise woman buildeth 
 her house;" 3rd daughter, "A gracious woman re- 
 taineth honour;" 4th daughter, •'A prudent wife is 
 from the Lord ;" oth daughter, " She that feareth the 
 Lord shall be praised." 
 
 Beneath this monument, on an alabaster gravestone 
 in the floor, are some figures engraved, with an imper- 
 fect inscription round the same, and a shield with the 
 arms of Eyre impaled with Mordant. 
 
 In the chancel, upon a beautiful table monument of 
 alabaster, is a Latin inscription, of which the follow, 
 ing is a translation : 
 
 Here lies John Vernon, son and heirof Henrv Ver- 
 non, who died the 12th dav of August, 1477, whose 
 soul God pardon. 
 
 On a brass plate on the wall, to the left of the 
 conininnion rails : 
 Here lieth the bodv of Bernard Wells, of Holme, in 
 the county of Derby, gent. He was son of 1 homas 
 \\ells, of Aston-under.Hill, in the countv of Glou- 
 cester,gent. and married Barbara, daughter'of Richard 
 Marshall, of lideswell, in the county of Derby, gent, 
 and by her he had one son, who died without issue, 
 and two daughters, viz. >Iary, who married Henry 
 Bradshaw, of Marple, in the county of Chester, esq. 
 and Anne, who married Robert tvre, of Highlow, in 
 the said countie of Dcrbv, esq. He died at Holme 
 aforesaid, the 13th day of June, in the 86th vear of his 
 age. 1668. 
 
 \\itliin the communion rails are interred the re- 
 mains of Ihomas Wilson, vicar of Bakewell thirtv- 
 three years : he died January 7, I7i]8, aged 67. 
 
 In the chancel lies interred the Rev. Gor^telow 
 Monck, A. M. vicar ff Bakewell, and rector of Ham- 
 stal Ridware, in Staffordshire, who died the 15th of 
 July, 1724, aged 41. 
 
 In the nave of the church is interred the Rev. 
 Thomas Grove, M. A. late vicar of Bakewell and of 
 South Wingtield, in the county of Derby : he died 4lh 
 Way, 1769, aged 69. 
 
 The Parishioners of 
 The Rev. Richard Chapman, A. B. vicar of this place, 
 for a period of more than 46 years, caused this tablet 
 to be erected, as a tribute of esteem and respect rie. 
 servedly due to his memory : he died much regretted 
 by all, on the I6tl) of AprU, 1816, aged 78. As a pas- 
 
 tor, ever punctually attending to his sacred dutie« ; 
 and firmly inculcating the doctrines of the church ; 
 which manly sense and classic ability enabled him 
 forcibly to explain. To the poor a good Samaritan, 
 ever feeling for their necessities; and often lamenting 
 that his means were not equal to his wishes. 
 
 As a Man, 
 his resentment never indulged an unchristian spirit, 
 or survived the occasion. His enmity alone was mor- 
 tal; his forgiveness ever alive. His goodness of heart, 
 his freedeportment, liberality of sentiment, and cheer- 
 ful flow of mind, endeared him to his friends, and left 
 them, with tri.th to say. His death contracted the cir. 
 cle, and diminished their stock of social pleasure. 
 
 On the south side of the chancel is an elegant tablet 
 with a I.atin inscription, for Nicho as 'Iwigge, of 
 Holme — born in the year 1700, died 1760, 
 In the chancel a tablet to the 
 Memory of John Denman, an eminent apothecary 
 of Bakeuell, who died 25lh September, 1752. 
 Tablets for 
 Mary Bagley, who died 1st December, 1773, aged 82. 
 Moses Hudson, Clerk, A. B. died 22nd February, 
 1775, aged 54. 
 
 Mr. Heathcote, of Bakewell, died 4th May, ISiS, 
 aged ~:l. He yvas a firm sup[>orter of the protestaiit 
 establishment, and served the office of churchwarden 
 for the almost unprecedented space of 40 years. 
 In the chancel several of the Bagshaw family 
 are interred. 
 Charles Bagshaw, gent, son of Thomas Bagshaw, 
 esq. who died 25tli Octoi er, 1717, aged 44. 
 
 Ihoinas Bagshaw, of Ridge, in this county, married 
 Mary, daughter of J'homas Allestree, of Alvaston, esq. 
 he died I3tn April, 1721, aged 8<. 
 
 In memory of Mary, wife of Barker Bossiey, second 
 daughter of William and Dorothy Milnes, of Ashover, 
 died •<^5th March, 1795, aged :-.8. ' 
 
 Richard Roe died January [i, 1798, aged 83. 
 Michael Heathcote, of Petersburg, in Virginia, mer- 
 chant, youngest son of Edward and Elizabeth Heath- 
 cote, died 5lh Mav, 1792, aged 36. 
 
 Here lies the body of William Saville, of Bakewell, 
 in the county of Derby, esq. steward to the Right 
 Hon. John Earl of Rutland, whodied 16th December, 
 1658, in the 60th year of his age, he married Jane Gil. 
 bert, the daughter of William Gilbert, of the same 
 town, gent, by whom he had issue two sons and three 
 daughters, viz. George, William, Grace, Manners, 
 and Susanna, of which are now living George, Wil- 
 liam, and Susanna. 
 
 No epitaph need make the just man fam'd: 
 The good are praised when they're only iiam'd. 
 William Nicholson died 6th March, 1764'. 
 These lines I with watery eje, For my dear Friend 
 
 indite. 
 Who for his worth, none such ou earth. Heaven 
 
 crown him with true light: 
 A lawyer just, a steward most just. As ever sate in 
 
 court. 
 Who lived belov'd, with tears interred. This is his 
 true report. 
 Katherine Broomhead, widow and relict of Robert 
 Broomliead, late of Bubnell hall, gent, daughter of the 
 above named William Nicholson, who died 15th 
 April. 17t». aged 90. 
 
 William Gardom, second son of Mr. John Gardom, 
 of Bubnell, died 20th September, 1799. aged 49. 
 
 Robert Schollar, jun. Bachelor of .Arts and master 
 of the free-school in Bakewell, died Uth February, 
 ICT-i, aeed 21. 
 
 Whose soul doth rest with God above. 
 Within the heavenly orb of light, of love. 
 Robert Schollar, sen. keejierto the Right Hon. John 
 Earl of Rutland, died 21st March, 17<»0, aged 78. 
 
 Ruth Schollar, wife of the above, died 51st Decem- 
 ber. 1708, aged 86. 
 
 Thomas Schollar, third son of the above, died 15lh 
 June. 1678, aged 21. 
 
 His course was short, the longer is his rest, 
 God takes them soonest whom he loveth best. 
 Edward Schollar, fourth son of the above, died 13th 
 February, 1681, aged 22. 
 
 Reader, consider what is written here. 
 It may awake a death-watch in thy ear.
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 79 
 
 Joseph GouM, mercer, died 26th November, 1777. 
 aged C2: and Ellen his wife, daughter of Thomas Gil- 
 bert, esc), of Cotton, in the county of Statrord, died 8th 
 July, ITU'J, aged 69 : also a son and a daufjhter. 
 
 Basset (^opwood, son of Richard Copwood, esq, of 
 Blore, in the county of StalFord, he died at Bubnell 
 hall, 17th July, ICl'S, aged 81. 
 
 Under tins tomb lie the two wives of John Dale, of 
 Bakewell, barber surgeon, born at Shehlon. His first 
 wife, Klizabeth, was the daughter of Godfrey Kol- 
 jambe, of Bakewell; his second wife, Sarah, was the 
 daughter of Bloodworth. Therest of the inscrip- 
 tion mentions mily what children he had by them, and 
 is very much defaced and difficult to read. 
 
 Know, posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the 
 yeare of Grace, 1757, the rambling remains of the 
 abovesaid John Dale were, in the 86th yeare of his 
 pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives. 
 
 This thing in life might raise some jealousy. 
 Here all three lie together lovingly. 
 But from embraces here no pleasure flows. 
 Alike are here all human joys and woes ; 
 Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears, 
 And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears; 
 A period's come to all their toilsome lives. 
 The good man's ((uiet; still, are both his wives. 
 Latham Woodroofe, esq. servant of the Right Hon. 
 John Earl of Rutland, who died Septeml)er 1, ICIS, 
 aged *10. 
 
 Vixit dilectus, cecidit ploratus honor! 
 Fulns erat domini gratuisset ipsi Deo. 
 He, whilst he liv'd, was well belov'd. 
 
 Now much lamented dead : 
 True to his Lord, ilear to his God; 
 From us untimely tied> 
 
 The font within the church is of great antiquity : its form is octagon, and on each 
 face is the representation of one of the apostles rudely sculptured. 
 
 In the church-yard there is an ancient stone cross, supposed to have heen brought 
 from some other place. The height of it is eight feet, exclusive of the pedestal. 
 The width is two feet. The ornaments and sculptured devices on the four sides are 
 much worn and defaced, but they are evidently subjects taken from the scriptures. 
 On one side of the cross are the birth, crucifixion, the entombment, the resurrection 
 and ascension : on the reverse is Christ entering Jerusalem upon an ass. These 
 figures are indistinct, and antiquarians have differed in their interpretation of thera. 
 
 Charities. 
 
 LADY MANNERS' SCHOOL.— By indre. bearing date l':th May, 163fi, be- 
 een lirace Lady Manners, witlow, of tlic one part, and John Crcavci;, esq. and olhers. 
 
 tween
 
 80 BAKEWELL. 
 
 of the other part ; the said Lady Manners, in order to make a provision for the main- 
 taining a schoohnaster for ever, to teach a free-school within the township of Bake- 
 well, for the hetter instructinp; of the male children of Bakewell and Great llowsley, 
 in good learning, and the christian religion, gi'anted to the said John Greaves and 
 others, and their heirs, a yearly rent charge of £15. to be issuing out of lands at El- 
 ton. She directed that her heirs, being of full age, and lords of the manor of Had- 
 don, should have the appointment of the schoolmaster. 
 
 The present master of this school, the Rev. John Browne, was appointed in 1806, 
 by the Duke of Rutland, as the heir of Lady Manners, on the recommendation of the 
 then vicar, and several of the inhabitants of Bakewell. Mr. Browne receives £50. 
 per annum ; viz. the said rent charge of £15. per annum, with a voluntary addition 
 of £35. from the Duke. In respect of this salary, the schoohnaster instructs, gratui- 
 tously, such boys of the township of Bakewell and Great Rowsiey, whose parents 
 think proper to send them to the school, in reading English, and writing, and in Latin 
 and Greek, if required. Arithmetic is also taught to those boys whose parents wish 
 them to learn it, on payment of lOi. 6d. per quarter. 
 
 MARY HAGUE'S SCHOOL.— By will, bearing date 20th Nov. 1715, she gave 
 her house, garden, stable, and nine square yards of land for ever, for teaching so 
 many poor children, belonging to the poor of Bakewell, in reading, as the yearly rent 
 would amount to, until they could read the bible, and then to be removed and others 
 supply their places. 
 
 Ralph Bradbury, the parish clerk, was appointed schoolmaster by the vicar and 
 parish officers. He receives the emoluments, and for them instructs seven poor chil- 
 dren, boys and girls, of the township of Bakewell, appointed by the churchwardens. 
 
 SIR JOHN MANNERS' HOSPITAL, called SAINT JOHN'S HOSPITAL. 
 — By deed, bearing date the last day of April, 1602, and 25th AprU, 1605, reciting 
 that Roger Manners, esq. brother of John Manners, of Nether Haddon, esq. of his 
 charitable disposition left £600. to the said John Manners, esq. to purchase a rent 
 charge of £40. per annum, for the benefit of the poor people inhabiting within the 
 township of Bakewell, in the said hospital ; and that in consideration thereof, the said 
 John Manners, by indre. made the last day of Oct. 36 EUzabeth, had granted to the 
 said Roger Manners and others, a rent charge of £22. issuing out of land, ixc. of the 
 said John Manners, at Bradmore, in the county of Nottingham, to be employed by 
 the lord of Nether Haddon for the time being, for the relief of four poor men residing 
 at Bakewell, and another rent charge of £18. per annum, issuing out of an estate now 
 in the possession of Mr. Anthony Alsop, of Wensley, consisting of about 18 acres, at 
 Wensley, in the parish of Darley, for the maintenance of two alms' people. 
 
 The said Sir John Manners, knt. incoqwrated the said six persons by the name of 
 the Governor and Poor of St. John's Hospital, in Bakewell, and ordained that they 
 should have perpetual succession, and be capable of taking lands, and have a common 
 seal, which should be kept locked in a chest, in the said Hospital, with four keys : 
 whereof the governor should have one ; the heirs of the said John Manners one ; the 
 bailiff of Bakewell a third ; and the vicar or curate of the church a fourth: and the 
 said John INIanners granted to the said governor and poor, and their successors for 
 ever, the lower part of the newly erected town-hall, and directed that his heirs and 
 assigns should keep the said lower part of the said newly erected house in repair for 
 ever, and uphold the same. 
 
 In the deed of 1602 a jiower was reserved by the grantor of the rent charge of £22. 
 to charge other lands with a rent charge of equal amount. 
 
 The sum of £22. is paid by the Duke of Rutland, who is the owner of Nether 
 Haddon, and £18. by Mr. Anthony Alsop, as the possessor of the estate at Wensley. 
 This income, amounting in the whole to £40. per annum, is thus divisible under the 
 above abstracted deed.
 
 BAKEWELL. 
 
 81 
 
 £. >. d. 
 
 To the Governor and five poor men for their maintenance, £5. each 30 
 
 And for a gown, £ I. each 6 
 
 To their laundress, as directed by the deed to wash their clothes and attend them 
 
 in siciiness 4 
 
 £40 
 
 Archer John, esq.. 
 
 Bott Robert 
 
 Broomhead Catherine, and J 
 Ellen Webster j 
 
 Gisborne Rev. Francis 
 
 Nailor Mary, and Bagshaw 
 
 Schollar Robert 
 
 Saint Andrew's church, or 
 Town StDck, including 
 the gifts of various do- 
 nors 
 
 Strutt Matthew 
 
 Swan Ann 
 
 5 pecks and one- 
 eighth of oatin. 
 
 Rent charge 
 
 3 a. 1 r. 3!) p. a 
 cow-house and al- 
 lotment 33 p. 
 FuiKled property 
 
 £44 
 
 Rent charge 
 
 Land in Monyash 
 
 1 9 a. 3 r. 1 3 p. 
 
 1 a. 3 r. 37 p. 
 
 £10 
 
 Rent charge 
 
 Weekly 
 
 £8. per an. 
 
 17 o| 
 
 ISO 
 2 4 
 2 
 
 22 10 
 
 Interest to 
 10 
 
 Poor of Bakewell and 
 Great Longston 
 
 10s. for sermon. Is \ 
 
 for poor / 
 
 lOj. to vie. for ser. i 
 ,5()s. to poor wid. '- 
 res. to Volg. sch. J 
 
 Clothing 
 
 Poor Widows. 
 Poor in coals 
 
 Poor . 
 
 Ten poor widows 
 Twenty poor widows 
 
 Charged on lands pur. by 
 tile Duke of Devonshire, 
 Mr. Birch, and others. 
 
 Will, 2Jth May, 1665. 
 
 Deed, 24, 25 March, 1754. 
 Deed, 1817. Will 1818. 
 Will, 11th April, 1700. 
 
 From 1C80 to 1711. 
 
 Will, 23rd Jan. 1798. 
 Will, 1676. 
 
 The town-hall is an obscure building. It was erected in 1709. Near the town- 
 hall are six alms-houses for six bachelors or sole men (single men, widowers, or 
 bachelors). These were endowed by the Manners' family, with rent charges on 
 estates in Wensley and Darley. 
 
 There is a cotton manufactory at Bakewell, situate near the entrance of the town 
 from Ashford, at whicli are employed between three and four hundred hands, besides 
 mechanics. It belongs to Robert and Peter Arkwright, esqrs. 
 
 Among the records that have been kept at Derby, of the important and interesting 
 events which have taken ])lace there, is a memorandum, that in the year 1608, the 
 witches of Bakewell were hanged. 
 
 The High Peak savings' bank is open every Monday to receive deposits. 
 
 The Bakewell Dispensary was established by some of the principal inhabitants, 
 under the patronage of the Dukes of Devonshire and Rutland, and the Earl of New- 
 burgh, and other noblemen and gentlemen. It will undoubtedly prove of infinite 
 benefit to the working classes of society. Great praise is due to Michael Atkinson, 
 esq. Dr. Read, and Mr. Harris, surgeon, for their exertions in the good cause. 
 
 The meeting for the establishment of this institution was held on the 18th of Sep- 
 tember, 1828, the Rev. F. Hodgson chairmain, and on the 18th of October following 
 the Rules antl Regulations were adopted ; Sir W. C. Bagshaw and Sir F. S. Darwin 
 accepted the appointment of honorary consulting physicians. Dr. Read was appoint- 
 ed physician in ordinary, Mr. Joseph Harris, surgeon, and Mr. T. Mills, dispenser. 
 
 'Phe W^althalls descended from the family of that name at AV'istaston, in Cheshire, 
 and the respectable families of Birch, Barkers, Keymore, Hodgson, Browne, S<.c. be- 
 sides several professional families, reside within the town or in its immediate borders. 
 
 D'Ewes Coke, esq. Barrister at Law, descended from the ancient and eminent 
 family of that name, lords of Trusley in this county, occasionally resides at Castle- 
 hill house, Bakewell. To this gentleman the publisher is indebted, and most respect- 
 fully returns his acknowledgments, for much information relating to the county. 
 
 Sessions were formerly held at Bakewell, but owing to the disturbances in 1795-6, 
 on account of raising the supplementary inihtia, and the want of accommodation, they 
 were removed.
 
 S2 
 
 HADDON. 
 
 HADDOX, or NETHER HADDOX, belonging to the parish of Bakewell, is 
 in the constablery of Darley, and the hundred of High Peak. It Hes l| m. S. E. of 
 Bakewell, and s| m. X'. ofMatlock. This estate consists of 1480 acres of excellent 
 meadow and pasture land, at an average rental of £2. per acre. 
 
 This manor belonged to the Avenells at a very early period. Their co-heiresses 
 married Vernon and Basset. In the reign of Henry 111. the heiress of ^'ernon mar- 
 ried Gilbert Le Francis, whose sen Richard took the name of Vernon, and died in 
 129o, at the age of twenty-nine. It, however, appears from the Inqvis. Post Mart. 
 that in 4 Edward I. Robert de Derleigh held the manor of Xether Haddon, de honore 
 Pei-erclli de i^'^oHin^ham unde ceu Jiod' in com' Derb. Xifher Haddon, quatuor 
 partes feed" Robertijilii Roberti de Derlei/e. And from the same record, in 1 1 Ed- 
 ward i. Gulielmus le Franceys held half the manor of X'ether Haddon with its mem- 
 bers, Basselow, Bobenhull and Rowlesley ; and in 32 Edward I. Robertus Basset de 
 Rvpkton held, under his son Thomas, in Xether Haddon, a messuage, two caru- 
 cates and ten marcat' of land. Bat, in Edward II. Ricardus filius Ricardi de Ver- 
 non and Matilda his wife held half the manor of Xether Haddon. According to 
 Lvsons, the Bassets held a moiety of Xether Haddon during the reign of Edward III. 
 but that in or before the reign of Henry VI. the whole became vested in the Vernons, 
 who had purchased the moiety held by the Bassets. There seems to be some mis- 
 take in the statements of this eminent topographer, and the possession, previous to the 
 time of Sir Richard A'erncn, is involved in some obscurity. Sir Richard was speaker 
 of the parliament held in 1425, at Leicester, and was afterwards governor of Calais, 
 in which command, his son, who was the last person who held, for life, the office of 
 Hish Constable of England, succeeded him. The grandson of Sir Henrj' A'ernon was 
 also Sir Henry, and was appointed governor to prince Arthur, the eldest son of Henry 
 VII. Report states that that young and promising prince sometimes resided at Had- 
 don. Sir George Vernon, the lineal descendant of the above, obtained, during the 
 rei"-n of Queen Elizabeth, the appellation of King of the Peak, on account of his al- 
 most royal style of living: his retinue was numerous, and his behaviour, as well as 
 his hospitality, was magnificent ar.d princely. The youngest of his co-heiresses, 
 Dorothv, married Sir John Manners, second son of Thomas, the first Earl of Rut- 
 land : report says that the marriage was clandestine, and the apartment from which 
 the lovers effected their escape through the gardens is pointed out by the person who 
 shows the hall. This marriage brought Haddon into the possession of the Dukes of 
 Rutland. Margaret, the other co-heiress, married Sir Thomas Stanley, the second 
 son of Edward, the third Earl of Derby. In the year 15T6, we find John Manners, 
 of Xether Haddon, esq. high sherift'for the county of D^rby. 
 
 Haddon Hall, or Haddon Grange, is a truly venerable relique of the baronial 
 period. It stands on an eminence of limestone rock, which is curiously inbedded 
 with other strata, on the east bank of the river AVye, and overlooks the romantic dale 
 of Haddon. This castellated mansion is considered to be one of the most complete 
 residences of the feudal lords of England now remaining, and presents an interesting 
 study to the historian and antiquary. It is uninhabited and partiaily dilapidated, but 
 it contains enough to show the arrangements of the domestic economy of the great in 
 the middle a^^es. ^Ve trace in it, their festive entertainments and their profuse hos- 
 pitality, and obtain considerable insight into the rude magnificence of their general 
 mode of living. 
 
 The following poem we have no doubt will please those into whose hands it m.ay 
 fall, who have net read it in the Annual from which it is extracted.
 
 IIADDON. 
 
 83 
 
 Haddon Hall. (From the " BiJOu" for 1828 J 
 
 Haddon, within thy silent halls, 
 
 Deserted courts, and turrets high. 
 How mournfully on memory falls 
 
 Past scenes of antique pageantry.' 
 
 A holy spell pervades thy gloom, 
 A silent charm breathes all around. 
 
 And the dread stillness of the tomb 
 
 Reigns o'er thy hallow'd, haunted ground. 
 
 King of the Peak ! thy hearth is lone. 
 No sword-girt vassals gather there. 
 
 No minstrel's h.irp pours forth its tone 
 In praise of Maud or Margaret fair. 
 
 Where are the high and stately dames 
 Of princely Vernon's bannered hall ? 
 
 Anil where Hie knights, ami what their names. 
 Who led them forth to festival ? 
 
 They slumber low, and in the dust, 
 Prostrate and fallen the warrior lies. 
 
 His faulchion's blade is dim with rust. 
 And quench'd the ray of beauty's eyes! 
 
 Those arms which once blazed through the field, 
 Tlieir brightness never shall resume; 
 
 O'er spear and helm, and broken shield. 
 Low droops the faded, sullied plume. 
 
 Arise! ye mighty dead, arise! 
 
 Can Vernon, liutiand, .Stanley sleep ? 
 Whose gallant hearts and eagle eyes 
 
 Disdained alike to crouch or weep? 
 
 And ye who owneil the orbs of light. 
 The golden tress — the pure fair brow — 
 
 In the cold sleep of endless night. 
 Say, do the Vernon's daughters bow ? 
 
 No, no, they wake ! a seraph guard. 
 To circle this their loved domain ; 
 
 Which time has spared, nor man has marr'd 
 With sacrilegious hand profane. 
 
 Haddon ! thy chivalry are fled ! 
 
 The tilt and tourney's brave array. 
 Where knights in steel from heel to head. 
 
 Bore love's or honour's prize away. 
 
 No hunter's horn is heard to sound; 
 
 No d.ime, with swan-like mien glides by. 
 Accompanied by hawk and hound. 
 
 On her fair palfrey, joyously. 
 
 Thy splendid sun has set in night: 
 But gentler, holier, more subdued, 
 
 Than earth's most brilliant dazzluig light. 
 Thy moonlight garden's solitude. H. B. 
 
 There is a romantic grandeur in the position of Haddon hall, which produces an 
 intense effect upon the mind of the beholder, independently of the recollections con- 
 nected with its antiquity. The rocks in which it is i)ased rise immediately from the 
 banks of the Wye, and are enveloped in foliage. The lofty embattled turrets that 
 present themselves above the trees impart to the scene a bold and magnificent cha- 
 racter, and realize to the painter's eye many of those views which are seldom seen in 
 E]ngland, except upon canvass. We transcribe the following passage from Rhodes. 
 " The Wye, swollen by heavy rains, had overflowed its banks, and its windings, 
 round the base of the wooded eminence on which Haddon stands, presented the ap- 
 pearance of a formidable river, which happily harmonized with the surrounding ob- 
 jects, and completed the composition of one of the sweetest pictures in the Peak of 
 Derbyshire. The day was gloomy, and the sombre effect of the sky, together with 
 the dark unvaried tone that prevailed, increased the solemnity of the scene A tran- 
 sient ray of sunny light moved gently over Haddon as we beheld it, and gradually 
 unfolded its architectural detail : it was a momentary gleam, at whose bright touch tiie 
 landscape glowed with beauty ; too soon it passed away ! a thicker gloom succeeded, 
 and again involved the whole in shadow." 
 
 The lower Entrance. 
 Upper Entrance. 
 Middle Entrance. 
 Chapel. 
 Hall. 
 
 Dining-Room. 
 Two Cellars. 
 Armoury. 
 
 Basement Story of Haddon Hall. 
 
 Aviary. 
 Buttery. 
 Wine Cellar. 
 Two Pantries. 
 Kitchen. 
 Two Larders. 
 Bakehouse. 
 Brewhouse. 
 
 Two Waiting Rooms. 
 
 Steward's Room. 
 
 And sixteen other Apartments, 
 surrounding the Upper and 
 Lower Courts, besides the Upper 
 and Lower Terrace. 
 
 First Start/ of Haddon Hull. 
 
 The Chapel continued. 
 Hall continued. 
 Drawmg-Room. 
 Long Gallery. 
 
 Earl's Bed Room and two Dressing 
 Rooms. 
 
 State Bed Chamber. 
 Steward's Ued Room. 
 Barmaster's Bed Room. 
 Chaplain's Bed Room. 
 Bed Room. 
 
 Nursery. 
 
 Urcwhouse continued. 
 
 And twenty-three other Apart- 
 ments, surrounding the Upper 
 and Lower Courts. 
 
 The ground plan of the building may be described as consisting of two court yards.
 
 84 HADDON. 
 
 which are nearly square, and are surrounded by various offices and apartments- 
 Among these apartments are the guard room, the chaplain's room, &c. In the former 
 of these are shown several pairs of boots, a buckskin jacket, an old firelock of curious 
 construction, a holster and pistols, all of very ancient date. 
 
 The elevations are in the castle-style, and are embattled with lofty turrets, which 
 give the whole edifice the appearance of a strong fortress, not only at a distance but 
 also upon a nearer approach. The most ancient portion may have been intended for 
 warlike purposes, but not even that or any other part could have been capable of any 
 very effectual resistance. We are inclined to believe, with Gilpin, that there was a 
 castle on the same site previous to the conquest, as vestiges of Saxon architecture are 
 perceptible in the towers and in the chapel. It is generally said that the structure 
 was not intended for warlike purposes, but this must have alluded entirely to the 
 edifice as it now appears, and of which the origin cannot be traced higher than the 
 fourteenth century, or rather the fifteenth and sixteenth. The great eastern tower 
 may very probably have been the remains of an ancient fortress. One of the descend- 
 ants of AVilliam Peverel is said to have resided here in the turbulent times of Stephen, 
 when every baronial hall was a citadel. 
 
 The principal entrance, on which are the Arms of the Vernons, Pipes, &c. is under 
 a tower at the north-west corner of the lower court ; and there is another under a 
 tower at the north-east corner of the upper court. The latter is thought to have been 
 erected about the period of Edward III. and, probably, as we have before observed, 
 on the site of a more ancient building, occupied by the Avenells and Vernons of the 
 preceding centuries. The chapel and hall are undoubtedly very ancient, and it is 
 impossible to assign any correct date to them. They were apparently rather repaired 
 than built by Sir Richard Vernon in the reign of Henry VI. when the windows of the 
 chapel were adorned with stained glass, many interesting remains of which can still 
 be traced, although much demohshed and disfigured. On the east window is the 
 following inscription — " Orate pro animantibus Ricardi Vernon et Benedictae uxoris 
 ejus, quijicerunt Anno Dni milessimo CCCCXXVII." Pray for the souls of Rich- 
 ard ^'ernon and Benedicta his wife, who made this in the year of our Lord 1427. 
 In another window, "\\'illiara Trussell, 1427 ; St. George and the Dragon, and other 
 devices. The subjects of the paintings on the windows are supposed to have been the 
 crucifixion and the twelve apostles placed in different compartments. The painted 
 glass is now put together in a very irregular manner, some of the figures and inscrip- 
 tions being reversed and united to pieces of different character. Much of this glass 
 was stolen some years ago, and there are many vacant panes recently put in. 
 
 The chapel is on the south-west angle of the great court, from Avhich the entrance 
 leads under a low sharp-pointed gothic arch. It has a body and two aisles, divided 
 from the former by pillars and pointed arches. One of the pillars between the nave 
 and the south aisle is far more ancient than the date in the windows, being in the 
 massive Saxon style ; and this, together with a font of the same architecture, may be 
 taken as a strong proof that the Avenells had here a very ancient residence. There 
 is by the side of the altar a niche and basin for consecrated water. 
 
 In the porch of the gi-eat hall is a Roman altar, preserved with great care. This 
 piece of Roman antiquity was discovered in the neighbourhood of Haddon some cen- 
 turies ago. The three following readings have been given at different times by curi- 
 ous travellers, of the inscription, which is much mutilated. 
 
 From Camden. As copied by a late Traveller. In 1818. 
 
 DEO DEO DEO 
 
 MARTI MARTI MARTI 
 
 BRACiACiE BRACiACiE BRACIFACA 
 
 OSITIUS OSOTIVS QSoH-VS 
 
 CACtlLlAN CAECILIAO CARQHIO 
 
 PREFECT FRAEF.COH. PRAKSOl 
 
 TRO I . AQVITANO P . AQVIiBIR : 
 
 V . S. V . S. IVR A
 
 H ADD ON. 85 
 
 The hall is situate between the two quadrangular courts, and is approached from 
 the principal entrance by a double flight of broad angular steps. It is about 35 feet 
 by 28 within the screen, which separates it from the buttery and other offices. Over 
 the door-way of the porch are two shields of arms ; one of them being the coat of 
 Vernon (fretty) the other being the arms of Fulco de Pembruge, Lord of Tonge, in 
 Shropshire (barry of six) which Sir Richard Vernon was entitled to, in riglit of his 
 wife. The hall has a communication with the grand stair-case, and the state apart- 
 ments, by a passage on the right ; and on the left are four large doorways, which com- 
 municate with the kitchen, buttery, wine cellar, and numerous small upper apartments 
 which appear to have been used as lodging rooms for the guests and their retainers. 
 The portraits in this apartment are John Clarke, a huntsman, taken in his ninetieth 
 year; John \Vard, gamekeeper, living in IS^?; Martin Middleton, of Hasselbach, 
 a tenant to his Grace, living in 1811, aged 87. 
 
 The hall was the dining apartment. At the upper end is a raised floor or dais, 
 where the table for the lord and his principal guests was laid out : below which the 
 tables for the dependents and retainers were placed. Two sides of the hall contain a 
 gallery, in which musicians played during the festivities. On the wainscot, near the 
 principal entrance, we observed an iron fastening of a peculiar structure, large enough 
 to admit the wrist of a man's hand, and Avhich we were informed had been placed 
 there for the purpose of punishing trivial offences. It had likewise another use, and 
 served to enforce the laws and regulations adopted amongst the servants of this estab- 
 lishment. The man who refused duly to take his horn of ale, or neglected to per- 
 form the duties of his office, had his hand locked to the wainscot somewhat higher 
 than his head, by this iron fastening, when cold water was poured down the sleeve of 
 his doublet as a punishment for his offence. In the kitchen are two fire-places of 
 very great dimensions, with irons for a prodigious number of spits. There are also 
 various stoves, great double ranges of dressers, an enormous chopping-block, and 
 other culinary conveniences, which seem to intimate the plentiful rather than the 
 elegant repasts there provided. From the south-east corner is a passage leading to 
 the great staircase, which is formed of huge blocks of stone, rudely jointed together. 
 There remain two pictures on the first landing-place of this staircase : they are Ahra- 
 ham offering tip Isaac, and Our Saviour reproving Peter. Here is the entrance 
 into various ancient apartments. One of these, which is called the wainscoted or 
 old dining-room, is of oak, enriched with shields, bearing the arms of Vernon. The 
 frieze is ornamented with boars' heads, the crest of Vernon ; the portraits of Henry 
 VII. and his queen, and various other decorations. Adjoining this apartment are 
 several others, which are called the dining-room, the Earl's dressing and lodging 
 rooms; which are hung with ancient arras, representing fiekl sports and scriptural 
 subjects. — The wliole of the lower court, and part of the ujiper, is in the style of 
 arciiitecture which prevailed in the early part of the sixteenth century, anil was proba- 
 bly erected by Sir Henry Vernon, who flourished in the reign of Henry VH. The 
 old drawing-room, and the adjoining bed-chajnber and dressing-rooms, appear to 
 have l.ieen fitted up, and were probably built by Sir George Vernon in the year 1.5l.,5 ; 
 his arms with that date, the arms of Henry VI II. and the plume of feathers, with the 
 initials E. P. being carved in oak over the drawing-room chinniey-piece. On the left 
 of the passage, at the head of the great stairs, are six very large semicircular steps of 
 solid timber : these lead to the longga/leri/, which occupies the whole of the upper floor 
 on the south side of the upper court, and is l()9g /?. long, 18 /?. wide, and 1 J./?, high. 
 The flooring is of oak planks, affirmed by tradition to have been cut out of a single tree 
 which grew in the garden. The wainscoting is likewise of oak, enriched with Corin- 
 thian pilasters : over which are arches, and between the arches are shields of the arms 
 of Manners, impaling those of Vernon. The frieze is ornamented with carvings of 
 boars' heads, peacocks, the crest of Manners, thistles, roses and other embellishments. 
 In the middle of the south side of the gallery is a large square recess; on each side 
 of which are several bow- windows. In one of these windows appear the arms of the 
 Earl of Rutland, impaling \'ernon, with its quarterings, and encircled with the garter. 
 In the same window are the arms of the Earl of Shrewsburv, encircled with the
 
 86 HADDOX. 
 
 garter ; and in another window, the arms of England, similarly surrounded and sur- 
 mounted with a crown. This room was evidently made after the house became the 
 property of the Rutland family. In this room is a portrait of the first Earl of Rutland, 
 and a painting of Tamyris, queen of the Scythians, with the head of Cyrus. — Near the 
 end of this gallery is a short passage which opens into the ante-chamber of the great 
 bed-room. These two rooms have a frieze and cornice in rough plaister, adorned 
 with peacocks and boars' heads in alternate succession. In the bed-room, over the 
 chiranev, is a very large bass relief of Orpheus charming the animals, also in plaister. 
 In the ante-room are the portraits of Queen EUzabeth, Charles 1. Princes Rupert and 
 Eugene, by ^'andvke. — In the great cliamber is the state bed, which was restored to 
 its position here, after having been removed to Belvoir, where the last person who occu- 
 pied it was his late majesty George IV. then Prince Regent. The furniture is green 
 velvet, lined with white satin ; and is said to have been worked by Eleanor Roos, 
 co-heiress of Lord Roos, who was the wife of Sir Robert Manners in the reign of 
 Henry Vl. This room is hung with French tapestry, from the celebrated manufac- 
 tory of the Gobelins at Paris ; the subjects of which are taken from iEsop's fables. — 
 Most of the other rooms are hung with ancient arras, preserved with great care. 
 " The doors," observes Mr. King in the Archaeologia, " were concealed everywhere 
 behind the hangings, so that the tapestry was to be lifted up to pass in and out; only, 
 for convenience, there were great iron hooks (many of which are still in their places) 
 by means whereof it might occasionally be held back. The doors being thus con- 
 cealed, nothing can be conceived more ill-fashioned than their v%-orkmanship ; few of 
 these fit at all close ; and wooden bolts, rude bars and iron hasps are in general their 
 best and only fastenings." — The tower at the east end of the building is called the 
 watch-tower : it is lofty and circular, and contains a circular staircase with chambers 
 at different elevations, which were probably at an ancient period the bed-rooms of the 
 family and their retainers. The other tower is constructed in a similar manner. — 
 The gloomy apartments and general appearance of this antique edifice, are said to 
 have suggested to ^irs. Radchffe some of the traits she has introduced in her terrific 
 descriptions of castles in the ^lysteries of Udolpho. 
 
 This mansion continued to be the principal residence of the Rutland family until 
 the beginning of the last century, when it was quitted for Belvoir Castle, the greater 
 part of which was destroyed by fire in the year 1816. In the time of the first Duke 
 (so created by Queen Anne) one hundred and forty servants were maintained here, 
 and the house was kept open, in the true style of old English hospitality, for twelve 
 days after Christmas. Since that time it has occasionally been the scene of mirth 
 and revelry ; and the cheerful welcome of ages long past, so far as the despoiled state 
 of the mansion would permit, has not been wanting to increase the pleasures of the 
 guests. The last time its festive board was spread, was shortly after the conclusion 
 of the American war, when nearly two hundred couple danced in the long gallery. 
 
 Most of the rooms are dark and uncomfortable, and give no favourable idea of our 
 ancestors' taste or domestic pleasures ; yet this place was for ages the seat of magnifi- 
 cence and hospitality. The last of the \'ernon family who resided here kept four- 
 score servants. The family crest is a boar's head ; and in this mansion it was former- 
 ly the custom, every Christmas, to serve up a boar's head, with a song. The follow- 
 ing " ancient verses, by AUeyn Sutton, concerning all the noble name of the Vemons, 
 knights," are supposed to have constituted one of these songs. 
 
 A grislie bore, as raven's feather black, There Dennc both arte and nature stronge hath made. 
 
 Bred in that land Rollo had by his wife. A ly vely streame bjuethe yt runneth cleare. 
 
 Paste th' ocean sea, the l)astard's part to take. The mygiity oakes above cast pleasant shade, 
 
 That Harrold refte of kingdonie and oi" lyfe. HealihfuU the ayre, all nedefull things are neare. 
 
 Whose of-springe syniee, ranginge the Peakishe hills. Off which Denne hath the greatest tusked swyne. 
 
 On ragged rociis a warlike forte dyd fvndc, A tygeress hath taken to hyrfeare. 
 
 And matchte with VernoyU, welder yt their will. Off rewbie hewe, issude of famous lyne; 
 
 Where gentyll deeds approve their gentill kynd. In these conjoyn'd rare venues do appeare; 
 
 Off theme I wyshe such offspringe to proceide. 
 As may them bothe in wortliyness excede. 
 
 Mr. King, in his observations on ancient castles, in the sixth volume of the Archae-
 
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 HADDON. 87 
 
 ologia says, that " nothing can convey a more complete idea of the ancient mode of 
 living than is to be obtained on this spot. Many great dwellings, which formerly 
 helped to preserve the same ideas, are now quite razed and gone ; and others are only 
 heaps of ruins, so far maimed, that it requires much attention to make out or com- 
 prehend what they once were, or to understand any thing of their original plan ; and 
 it is much to be wished by every lover of antiquities, that this princely habitation 
 may never come so far into favour as to be modernized, lest the traces of ancient 
 times and manners, which are now so rarely preserved in this country, should be 
 utterly lost." 
 
 As an object of antiquarian attention Haddon hall will have its attraction as long 
 as it exists, while the beauty of the country around it will ever excite the ailmiration 
 of the traveller. The haU is situate, as we have already observed, on the banks of 
 the romantic river Wye, which meanders in so diverse a course that the distance 
 along its banks is double of that by the road between Bakew^ell and llowsley. The 
 meadows are so rich and valuable, that Fuller, in his A^^orthies of England, asserts 
 that " the fair pastures nigh Pladdon, belonging to the Duke of Rutland, so in- 
 credibly battening (fattening) of cattle that one proffered to surround it with shillings 
 to purchase it, which because to be set sideways, not edgeways, were refused." — Tlie 
 rising grounds are covered with plantations of oak, lime, ash and sycamore. The 
 grove of lime trees is remarkably fine. The garden and summer house are laid out 
 and built in the style of the sixteenth century, with terraces, yew hedges and stone 
 ascents. They convey a striking image of the manners of those days, where we read 
 of walks witli stone balustrades, and much of the formality of art mingled with the 
 luxuriant beauties of nature. The summer house stands on an elevation, and com- 
 mands an extensive view of the mountain scenery of this part of the county. The 
 Duke of Rutland established a bowling-green in these grounds for the accommodation 
 of his tenantry and the visitors at Bakewell and the neighbourhood, but it is now to- 
 tally neglected. The W-^e falls into the Derwent near the village of Rowsley, at 
 the distance of a mile and a half from Haddon. At Rowsley visitors find excellent 
 accommodations at the Peacock Inn, which is kept by Mr. and Mrs. Severne. Here, 
 as at Bakewell, permission is obtained for fishing, and many gentlemen during the 
 summer season make this Inn their temporary residence. — The Duke of Rutland's fish- 
 ing and shooting seat in this neighbourhood is a romantic place called Stanton \\^ood- 
 house, embosomed in trees. Of this house, the elegant authoress of the Vignettes 
 of Derbyshire, says it " might have been an appendage to Haddon. Its thick 
 walls and iron-bound windows, circular stone stair-way and turreted chimneys accord 
 with that ancient place. One spacious apartment has been modernized, perhaps sixtu 
 ifears a^v, and the present domestic accnnimcdations are well suited lor the habits 
 and residence of a gentleman's family. Fine old yews and hollies, that have almost 
 attained the size of forest trees, grow beneath the terrace ; and in a Hue with the 
 house, elms that might vie with the horse-chestnut of a hundred years, spread their 
 leafy arms around." 
 
 There is a very extraordinary echo opposite to Haddon hall; and it is customary 
 for the stage-coaches to stop here while the guard plays some tunes on his horn, the 
 repetitions of which, by this echo, are clear and numerous. 
 
 The family of Manners is of great antiquity: its origin is said to be derived from 
 the village of Manner, in the county of Durham. The name of ^Villiam de Maner 
 occurs in the Mimasticoii, under the reign of \V'illiam Rufus ; and in the next rei'^n, 
 Terrel de Manner gave tlie church of Benestade (Banstcd) in co. Surrey to the priory 
 of St. Mary Overy in Southwark. Dugdale considers this family to have been in 
 great note in Northumberland ; for in 23 Henry II. Henry de Maners paid 80 marks 
 for livery of his father's lands in Northumberland. One of tlie most distinguished 
 of the early descendants of this Henry, was Sir Robert de Manners, wdio in the first 
 year of Edward III. was governor of Norham Castle, in Northumberland. On the 
 day on which that monarch was crowned, the Scotch borderers endeavoured to sur- 
 prise that fortress, but Sir Robert having obtained intelligence of their designs, de- 
 fended it so well that all who attempted to scale the walls were either killed or made
 
 88 HADDON. 
 
 prisoners. He is mentioned as being appointed during the year following to main- 
 tain the truce between the two neighbouring nations ; and in 8 Edward III. he was 
 appointed to take possession of and to defend the county of Selkirk, with the forests 
 of Selkirk and Ettrick. In the lith of the same reign, he, with Sir William Felton, 
 represented the county of Northumberland in parliament, and these members were 
 paid by the county £23. 4.?. for their expense and attendance for 58 days. About 
 the same time he obtained the king's permission to fortify his manor-house in Nor- 
 thumberland " with an embatailled wall of lime and stone." As the king was occu- 
 pied with his wars in France, the Scotch were emboldened to make frequent incur- 
 sions. Their king, David, was then in France, but Robert Stuart, who governed the 
 country, having obtained a re-enforcement from France, penetrated across the borders 
 almost as far as Durham. These Scotch invaders were totally defeated by Sir Robert 
 Manners, Lord Thomas Grey de VVerk, and John Coupland the valiant 'squire of 
 Northumberland. In the year ensuing, Sir Robert was one of the commissioners, 
 with the Earl of Derby and the Bishop of London, to treat of a peace with Scotland ; 
 and was subsequently made Warden of the Marches of Northumberland. — In 134.6, 
 the Scotch broke the truce and invaded Northumberland with an army of above 
 50,000 men. Queen Philippa raised a considerable force, which she commanded in 
 person, and a battle was fought at Nevil's Cross, near Durham, in which Sir Robert 
 de Manners displayed great valour. The Scotch were entirely routed, and their king 
 was taken prisoner by Sir John Coupland. The ravages which were daily committed 
 on the bordering counties of the two kingdoms greatly reduced the value of the Man- 
 ners' estates, and we find that on the death of Sir Robert, which happened in 1355, the 
 castle of Ethale was in ruins. The grandson of Sir Robert was sheriff of Northum- 
 berland in 1 Henry V. and in the beginning of the subsequent reign, he and his son 
 John were accused of the nmrder of William Heron and Robert Akyman. They 
 were prosecuted on this charge by Sir Robert de Umfraville and Isabel, the widow of 
 William Heron. After some time, a reference was made by the persons on each part 
 concerned, to the Priors of Durham and Tinemouth. 7'he award bears date 28th of 
 September, 9 Henry VI. and declares that the said John Manners and his son John 
 shall cause 500 masses to be sung for the health of the soul of the said William Heron 
 within one year then next ensuing : and pay unto Sir Robert de Umfraville and 
 Isabel, to the use of the said Isabel and the children of the said WiUiam Heron, 200 
 marks in money. 
 
 The eldest son of Sir John Manners, who succeeded his father, was named Robert : 
 he was thirty years old at the time of his father's death, and, according to the inqui- 
 sition taken at AV'hityncham in Northumberland, it appears that the estate at Ethale 
 lay then in a deplorable condition. This Sir Robert, however, performed such ser- 
 vices upon the Scottish borders, that in 27 Henry VI. he had a grant with Sir Henry 
 Percy of the goods and chattels of Sir Robert Ogle, which were then forfeited : but 
 it is probable that this was a restitution to him of the estates which had belonged to 
 his maternal grandfather, as his father married Jean, daughter of Sir R. Ogle, of 
 Ogle Castle. In the following year, and on other subsequent occasions, he was joint 
 conservator of the truce with Scotland. In 33 Henry VI. he was sheriff of Northum- 
 berland, and in the 38th of the same reign he was returned to serve in parliament 
 for the same county. On the accession of Edward IV. he obtained a grant of 20 
 marks per annum, and in the 4th of that reign he was sheriff of Northumberland, 
 which office he also enjoyed in 4 Ricliard III. He married P^leanor, daughter of 
 Thomas, and co-heiress of Edmund, Lord Roos. By this fortunate match he became 
 possessed of a vast estate and the castle of Belvoir, 
 
 Sir George Manners was the son of the above-mentioned Sir Robert, by Eleanor, 
 the co-heiress with her brother, Edmund Lord Roos ; and he espoused Anne, the 
 sole daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas St. Leger, by Anne his wife, who was 
 Duchess "of Exeter and sister of Edward IV. Sir George accompanied Henry VIII. 
 at the sieges of Touraine and Tournay, at the latter of which he fell sick and died. 
 He was buried at the priory of Holiwell, near London. He had previously served 
 under the Earl of Surrey in the expedition against Scotland, and assisted in concluding
 
 HADDON. 89 
 
 the peace in 1492. His testament is dated 26th October, 1513, (.5 Henry \'III.) in 
 which he bequeathed his body to be buried in the church nearest to the i)lace where 
 he should happen to die. To the abbey of Rivaulx he gave fifty marks, and the 
 same sum to the abbeys of Kirkham and 'W'avertree, to the intent that each of those 
 abbeys should find an honest priest to say mass daily for his soul for the space of seven 
 years ; and once every year perform his obiit for his soul and the souls of his friends. 
 He left issue by the said Anne, five sons and six daughters. 
 
 Sir Thomas Manners, tlie thirteenth Lord Roos, attended Henry VIII. at the 
 celebrated interview at Guisnes, between the kings of England and France: his lord- 
 ship had in his suite two chaplains, two gentlemen, eighteen servants, and twelve 
 horses. In the 14th year of the same reign he was constituted A\'arden of the East 
 Marches towards Scotland ; and two years afterwards had special livery of all the 
 manors, castles and lands descended to him from his grandmother Eleanor, and from 
 his great-aunt Isabel, another of the co-heiresses of the Roos family. In 17 Henry 
 VIII. he was advanced to the title and dignity of Earl of Rutland, and had thereupon 
 an augmentation to his ancient arms, by reason of his descent from the sister of Ed- 
 ward IV. by which he and his heirs were permitted to quarter the arms of England. 
 In the 22nd of the same reign, being one of the peers of parliament, he subscribed 
 the declaration which threatened Pope Clement with the loss of his supremacy in this 
 country, in consequence of his refusing the divorce between Henry and his queen 
 Catherine. Six years afterwards he again attended at the second interview between 
 Henry and Francis I. of France, and was soon after present at the marriage of his 
 sovereign with Anna Boleyne or Bullen, the mother of Queen Elizabeth. AVhen 
 the lesser monasteries were dissolved, and certain injunctions in matters of religion 
 were enforced, an insurrection occurred in Lincolnshire, and the Earls of Rutland, 
 Shrewsbury and Huntingdon were employed to reduce the insurgents to obedience. 
 A similar insurrection followed in Yorkshire, called the Pilgrimage of Grace, which 
 his lordship assisted to suppress. His lordship was also appointed to attend Anne 
 of Cleves, when she came to England as queen of Henry VIII. and was made her 
 Lord Chamberlain. The year ensuing he was nominated Chief Justice in Eyre of 
 all the king's forests beyond the Trent; and in 33 Henry VIII. he obtained a grant 
 of the manor of Muston in the county of Leicester, part of the possessions of the dis- 
 solved priory of Ossulveston : he likewise had grants of the manors of M'altham and 
 Croxton, in the county of Leicester, and of Upwell, Outwell, Elme and Emnithe, 
 in the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk : part of the possessions of the dissolved monas- 
 teries of Nuneaton, in the county of "W^arwick : he had also the manor of Eraunston 
 in Northamptonshire : part of the possessions of the abbey of Lilleshall in Shropshire ; 
 and of the manors of Billesdale and Helmesley, with the rectory of Ilelmesley church, 
 part of the possessions of the dissolved monastery of Kirkham, in the county of York, 
 with divers lands in Brandesdale, also in Yorkshire, and part of the possessions of 
 the abbey of Rivaulx. In 34 Henry VIII. he was constituted A\^arden of the 
 marches of Scotland, and accompanied the Duke of Norfolk, who was at the head of 
 an army of 20,000 men on a devastating expedition, in which twenty towns and vil- 
 lages were destroyed by fire in the course of eight days. After the dissolution of the 
 religious houses, this nobleman commanded many ancient monuments of the Albinis 
 and the Rooscs (from whom the great family inheritances of the i\lanners were de- 
 rived) to be removed from the priory of Belvoir and from Croxton abbey to Bottes- 
 ford; where some of them still remain. — Belvoir castle, while in the possession of 
 Lord Hastings, by the gift of Edward IV. having been greatly despoiled, was re- 
 paired by the first Earl of Rutland, but it was rebuilt by his son, the second Earl. 
 
 This first Earl of Rutland married twice. His first wife was Elizabeth, the daugh- 
 ter of Sir Robert Level : his second was Eleanor, daughter of Sir William Paston, by 
 whom he had five sons and six daughters. He died on the 20th of Septend)er, 1543, 
 after having been constantly in his sovereign's em])loy, and was buried at Bottesford 
 in Leicestershire. His widow was buried in Shoreditch church. 
 
 Roger Manners, third son of the first Earl, resided at UfKngton in the county of 
 Lincoln, he was one of the esquires of the body to the Queens Mary and Elizabeth. 
 
 M
 
 90 HADDON. 
 
 He gave four scholarships to Corpus Christi college^ in Catnhridge, besides benefac- 
 tions to the cliapel. 
 
 Thomas Manners, fourth son of the first Earl, served in the English army in Ire- 
 land and Scotland, in which last kingdom he was knighted, having received many 
 wounds in the wars. He married Theodosia, the daughter of Sir John Newton, knt. 
 and died in June, 1591, leaving issue, Charles his son and heir, and two daugliters, 
 Anne, wife of AV'illiam "S'avasour, the first baronet of that family, and Eleanor, the 
 wife of Thomas Powtrell, of \V"est Hallam, co. Derby, esq. He was buried at St. 
 Leonard's, Slioreditch, London, being at the time of his death about fifty years of age. 
 
 Oliver, fifth son of the first Earl, served at the siege of Havre de Grace. He was 
 one of the hostages for the restoring of that place, and died when he was but about 
 twenty years of age, of an epidemical disease, in 1563, having given signal proofs of 
 his valour. He was buried in Shoreditch church with his mother, who died twelve 
 years before. 
 
 Henry, the second Earl of Rutland, was present wath his father when Francis I. 
 took the oath to observe the articles of peace concluded between his commissioners 
 and the commissioners of England. In the reign of Edward VI. he was AV^arden 
 of the northern marches of Scotland, where he commanded an army of 15 or 
 16,000 men. During the violence of parties in that reign, the Earl of Rutland 
 espoused neither of the conflicting interests, but employed himself in recovering 
 from the Scots the territories which the English had recently lost. In order to give 
 a diversion to the English government, the Scots attempted to raise a rebellion in 
 the north of England, but were prevented by the vigilance of his lordship. The 
 commotions were at this time great, and the employment of foreign troops was both 
 expensive and unpopular. It was therefore necessary to bring off the garrison of 
 Haddington and to destroy the fortifications. This the noble Earl performed with 
 great intrepidity and success, and conveyed the artillery to Berwick. In the 2nd 
 year of the same reign his lordship was made constable of the castle of Nottingham, 
 and Chief Justice of Sherwood forest. April 19th, 1550, he was one of the Eng- 
 lish who were appointed to attend and do honour to the French hostages, who were 
 sent to England in consequence of the late peace. In the year 1551, king Edward 
 VI. having been made a knight of the order of St. JNIichael, by the French king, 
 the marquess of Northampton was sent to invest that prince with the order of the 
 Garter, and to propose a match between Edward and Elizabeth, the French king's 
 daughter. As this embassy was designed to be extremely magnificent, the Earl of 
 Rutland was the first nobleman who was appointed to go with the marquess. The 
 same year, he was one of the lords who sat upon the trial of the Protector, Duke of 
 Somerset. In the sixth of the same reign, he appeared in Hyde-park on a muster, 
 at the head of one hundred men in arms, in yellow and blue, carrying in his standard 
 his crest. He was suspected in the following reign of favouring the claim of the un- 
 happy lady Jane Grey ; and, on the 29th of July, 1553, his lordship was taken into 
 custody, and afterwards, with lord Russel, committed to the Fleet prison ; but the 
 queen being firmly settled upon the throne, thought proper to release him after a 
 short confinement. He attended king- Philip when he landed at Southampton, in 
 1554, on his coming over to marry the queen. He was appointed chief commander of 
 all the forces who were to be sent to France upon the misunderstandings that arose 
 between the two nations, and was present at the battle of St. Quintin, which was 
 gained chiefly by the English. In the next reign, he was appointed lieutenant of 
 the counties of Nottingham and Rutland; and, on the 23rd of April, 1559, he was 
 admitted a knight companion of the order of the Garter, and installed the 3rd of June 
 following. In the tliird year of the same reign he was president of the north, and 
 joined in commission with the archbishop of York, the bishop of Durham, and others, 
 to take care of the affairs of religion in those parts, and to administer to the subjects 
 the oath appointed to be taken by act of parliament. He had two wives, Margaret, 
 daughter to Ralfe, Earl of Westmoreland, by whom he had issue two sons, Edward 
 and John ; and Elizabeth, a daughter, wliO married to Sir AFilliam Courtney, of 
 Powderham, in the county of Devon, knight. His second wife was Bridget, daugh-
 
 HAD DON. 91 
 
 ter of John, lord Ilussey, of Sleaford, in the county of Lincohi, widow of Sir Richard 
 Morrison, kni-^ht, who survived him, and by whom he had no issue. The latter 
 lady was afterwards married to Francis, Earl of Bedford. He died on the 17th of 
 September, 1.563, after Iiaving been in the service and confidence of Queen Elizabeth, 
 and was buried at Bottesford. 
 
 Edward, the third Earl of Rutland, was twenty years of age when the rebeUion in 
 the north, under the Earls of Northumberland and W^estmoreland, on account of 
 Mary queen of Scots, broke out. The Earl of Sussex was the queen's general against 
 the rebels ; but, either through affection for thein, or inability, the rebellion had got 
 to a great height when the Earl of Rutland was appointed to serve under him as 
 Lieutenant General and Colonel of Foot, and was of the council of war ; extraordi- 
 nary preferments to a young man, who was yet a ward to the queen. The year fol- 
 lowing, he set out upon his travels to France; and, in the year 1582, he was made 
 Lieutenant of the county of Lincoln. Two years afterwards, he was made a knight 
 of the Garter: and, being considered as a nobleman of great learning and abilities, 
 he was appointed the cliief commissioner that concluded a stricter amity between the 
 crowns of Scotland and England, at Berwick upon Tweed. This Earl married Isabel, 
 daughter of Sir Thomas Holcroft, of the Vale Royal Abbey, in Cheshire, knight, and 
 had issue by her a daughter and heir, Elizabeth, wife of Sir \Villiam Cecil, knight, 
 (commonly called lord Burghley) son and heir apparent to Thomas, Earl of Exeter, 
 by whom he had issue, William, called lord Roos, who died in Italy, in the year 
 l(jI8, 18 James L unmarried; Elizabeth departed this life 11th of May, 1.591, and 
 both were buried in Westminster abbey. — His lordship died in his house at Ivy- 
 bridge, London, on the 14th of April, 1587, in the thirtieth year of his age, leaving 
 the reputation of a profound lawyer, being intended, had he lived, for the office of 
 Lord Chancellor, 
 
 John, the fourth Earl of Rutland, was second brother of the last Earl. He was 
 Col. in the Irish wars. In the reign of queen Elizabeth he was constable of Netting- 
 ham castle ; and, in the thirtieth of the same reign, he was Lord Lieutenar.t of the 
 same county. His will is dated February tlie 2;Jrd, 1587 ; and by that "he ordered 
 his body to be buried in the parish church of Bottesford, in the county of Leicester." 
 He married Elizabeth, daughter to Francis Charlton, of Apsley castle, in the county 
 of Salop, esq. By her he had four sons, Roger, Francis, George, and OHver ; and 
 four daughters, Bridget, married to Robert Tyrwhitt, of Kettleby, in the county of 
 Lincoln, esq. Frances, to AFilliam, lord ^Villoughby of Parliam. Ehzabeth, to 
 Emaimel, Earl of Sunderland, according to Sir William Dugdale. And, Anne, who 
 died unmarried. His lordship died the 1st of February, 1588-9, and was succeeded 
 by his son Roger. 
 
 Roger, the fifth Earl of Rutland, was the companion and friend of the unfortunate 
 Earl of Essex. In 1595 he set out upon his travels to France, Italy, Switzerland, 
 &c. and the Earl of Essex wrote him a letter upon tiie subject of traveUing, the style 
 and sentiments of which are not probably to be equalled in the English or any other 
 language. Iiaving finished his travels, he was, upon his return, matle constable of 
 Nottingham castle, and Chief Justice of the forest of Sherwood, and went a volun- 
 teer, under the Earl of Essex, in the expedition against Calais. In 1598, he was 
 made Colonel of a regiment of Foot in Ireland, where the Earl of Essex knighted him 
 for his gallant behaviour. It was perhaps there he contracted his intimacy with that 
 Earl. The history of that nobleman is well known, and nothing but the ties of friend- 
 ship could have attached the Earl of Rutland to him, and even to his memory. In 
 the same year he was incorporated M. A. in the University of Cambridge, Avhere he 
 was educated, and is styled by Wood an eminent traveller and a good soldier. Feb- 
 ruary 7, 1601, the Earl of Essex came to a rash and fatal resolution of going next 
 day, being Sunday, to the cathedral of St. Paul's, and there to invite the citizens to 
 join him against his enemies. The Earl of Rutland approved of this resolution, which 
 was betrayed to queen Elizabeth. She sent some of her privy-counsellors to reason 
 with Essex upon the subject, and he imprisoned them. After that he made a mad 
 attempt, by breaking into the city, to make an insurrection in his favour. This at-
 
 92 HADDON. 
 
 tempt proved unsuccessful ; and the Earl of Rutland was one of the noblemen who 
 surrendered themselves at Essex-house, to the mercy of the queen. After this, his 
 lordship was examined upon the charge of treason against the Earls of Essex and 
 Southampton, both of whom were condemned to death. The Earl of Rutland was 
 confined in the tower during the remainder of that unforgiving reign ; and the Earl 
 of Essex having been considered as a kind of a martjT for the succession of the king 
 of Scotland, his lordship, upon the accession of James to the crown of England, was 
 not only set at Uberty, but taken into favour even before his majesty arrived in London. 
 In the first year of this reign, he was made Lieutenant of Lincolnshire, and sent am- 
 bassador to Denmark, upon the birth of a son, to his Danish majesty, and with the 
 order of the Garter to that king. That same year, he Avas made steward of the manor 
 and soke of Grantham ; and, in the sixth of the same reign, he Avas again consti- 
 tuted Chief Justice of Sherwood forest. In 1603, he entertained King James in 
 his progress from Edinburgh to London ; when among other entertainments prepared 
 for the royal guest, Avas an exhibition of Ben Jonson's masque of the " Metamorphosed 
 Gypsies." — A cotemporary writer teEs us, " on the 22nd of April, his majesty de- 
 parted from Newark tOAvard Bever castle, hunting all the way as he rode, saving that 
 in the way he made four knights. By the right noble Earl of Rutland, his highness 
 was not only royally and most plenteously received, but with such exceeding joy of 
 the good Earl and his honourable lady, that he took therein exceeding pleasure. And 
 he approved his contentment in the morning ; for before he Avent to break his fast, 
 he made 46 knights ; and liaAing refreslied himself at breakfast, took kind leave of 
 the Earl of Rutland, his countess and the rest, and set forAvard towards Burleigh." — 
 He married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of the famous Sir Philip Sidney, but died 
 without issue the 26th of June, 1612, leaving his estate and honours to his brother 
 Francis, the memorial of A\-hose life is inscribed upon his monument, at Bottesford, 
 and is as follows : 
 
 " At eighteen years of age he began to travel (1598) in France, Lorrain, and divers parts of Italy, where he was 
 honourably received by the princes themselves, and nobly entertained in their courts. In his return through 
 Germany, he had the like honours done him by Ferdinand, archduke of Austria, at Gratz ; by the emperor 
 Mathias, in his court at A'ienna; by count Schwartzenburg, lieutenant of Javarin, in Hungary; by count Ros- 
 sembourg, at Prague, in Bohemia; by the marquis of Brandenburg, the dukes of Saxony, and other German 
 princes, in the court of Berlin. In anno 1604, he was made knight of the Bath, at the coronation of king 
 James; in anno 1612, lieutenant of Lincolnshire; and afterwards justice in Eyre of all the kinu's forests and 
 chaces on the north of Trent. In anno 1616, he was made knight of the most noble order of the Garter, bting 
 the same year one of the lords who attended king James, by his majesty's special appointment, in his journey 
 to Scotland. And, inanno]6'2o, had the command of his majesty's great ships and pinnaces, to bring prince 
 Charles out of Spain, which service he happily performed."* 
 
 Francis, the sixth Earl, was the brother of Roger, ^^lien eighteen years of age 
 (in 1598) this young nobleman began his travels into France and Italy. He returned 
 through Germany and visited the court of the Emperor, Avhere he Avas honourably 
 entertained by the arch-duke Ferdinand and the other German princes. In 1603, 
 when the king's second son, afterAvards Charles I. Avas made Duke of York, Sir Fran- 
 cis Manners Avas made Knight of the Bath. On his accession to the earldom, in 
 1612, he Avas made Lord Lieutenant of Lincolnshire : soon after. Justice in Eyre of 
 all the king's forests and chases north of the Trent, and Lord Lieutenant of the 
 counties of Rutland, Northampton and Nottingham. In 1616 he Avas created Knight 
 of the Garter, and Avas one of the lords Avho attended the king to Scotland. Two 
 years after, it appears, a Avrit of enquiry Avas issued, for this noble Earl to shoAv cause 
 why his castle of Belvoir should not be seized into the king's hands on account of 
 some alienation. In 1623 he Avas specially made Admiral of the Fleet for conA'oying 
 Charles, prince of ^A'ales, cut of Spain: and in 1625, his lordship Avas one of the 
 
 * To all these I shall add (says Sir AAilliam Dugdale) " that discerning the title of lord Roos, then claimed 
 by AVilliam Cecil, and accordingly enjoyed, coulo not justly be made use of by himself as heir male, by reason 
 that C'tcil was son and heir of Elizabtlh, the sole daughter and heir to Eilward, late F^arl of Rutland, who 
 had that title by right of descent, from EUaiior, his grandmother, sifter and heir to Edmund lord Roos, he 
 procured a spei'ial (latent, bearing date the i^Jnd of July, the fourteenth of James, whereby, in consideration 
 that he was then possessed of the land and barony of Hamlake, it was declared, that he should therefore be ac- 
 cepted, and called lord Roos of Hamlake; and that his son and heir should also enjoy the same name and title."
 
 HADDON. 93 
 
 supporters to Charles I. at the funeral of James I. In 1629, he attended at "Wind- 
 sor, with five of his domestics, in honour of the installation of the Earl of Northamp- 
 ton. He died, December 17, 1632, and was buried at Bottesford. By his first lady, 
 Frances, widow of Sir Wilham Beville, and one of the daughters and co-heirs of Sir 
 Henry Kny vett, of AViltshire, he had only one child, named Catherine, who married 
 the celebrated Duke of Buckingham. Her son, the second Duke of Buckingham, 
 took the title of Lord Roos of Hamlake. This caused a reference to the House of 
 Lords during the reign of Charles IL; but the House of Lords referred the matter 
 in dispute to the king. On the death of the Duke of Buckingham, the title reverted 
 to the Rutland family. — By his second marriage, with Cicely, daugliter of Sir .John 
 Tufton, of llothfield, in the county of Kent, sister to Nicholas, the first Earl of Tha- 
 net, and widow of Sir Edward Hungerford, knt. Earl Francis had two sons, Henry 
 and Francis, who both died in their infancy, from the effects, as was supposed, at 
 the time of " wicked practice and sorcery. ' — Joan Flower and her two daugtiters, 
 Margaret and I'hilippa, servants at Belvoir castle, were dismissed for neglect of busi- 
 ness and various misdemeanors. This excited their revenge against the family ; 
 they therefore made use of all the enchantments, spells and charms, that were, at 
 that period, supposed to be efficacious in bringing about tb.eir malignant purposes. 
 Henry, the eldest of the sons, died soon after their dismission ; notwitlistauding 
 which, no suspicion of witchcraft arose until five years afterwards; when the woman 
 and her two daughters, who are said to have entered into a formal contract with the 
 devil, and to have become " devils incarnate themselves," were accused of " murder- 
 ing Henry Lord Roos by witchcraft, and torturing the Lord Francis, his brother, 
 and the Lady Catherine, their sister." Being apprehended, five years after the sup- 
 posed fact, they underwent various examinations before Francis, Lord A\'illoughby 
 of Eresby, Sir George Manners, Sir William Pelham, Sir Henry Hastings, knt. and 
 Samuel Fleming, D. D. rector of Bottesford, and other of his Majesty's Justices of 
 Peace, and were committed to Lincoln gaol, llie mother, Joan Flower, died on the 
 journey, at Ancaster, after having solenmly wished that the bread and butter she was 
 about to eat, might choke her, if she were guilty. The two daughters were tried 
 before Sir Henry Hobart, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Sir Edward 
 Bromley, one of the Barons of the Exchequer. They confessed their guilt, and were 
 executed at Lincoln, March llth, 1618-19. — There can be no doubt of the inten- 
 tional guilt of these miserable women : they believed themselves to be witches. Their 
 case was printed in 4to, 1618, and a quarto pamphlet was published upon this occur- 
 rence. The calamities of the Earl's family are said to have occasioned the famous 
 Act against sorcery, and to have confirmed King James in his belief in witchcraft. 
 
 George succeeded as seventh Earl in 1632. In 1559 he was knighted by the Earl 
 of Essex, for his valiant behaviour in Ireland against the rebels. In 1631, Charles I. 
 honoured him with a visit at Belvoir castle. His wife was -I'^rances, daughter of Sir 
 Edward Cary, sister to Henry, the first Viscount Falkland, and widow of Ralph 
 Baesh, of Stansted Abbey, Herefordshire, esq. He died without issue, at his house 
 in the Savoy, 29th of March, 164.1. By his death, his estate and honours devolved 
 to John Manners, esq. then lord of the manor of Haddon, in the county of Derby, 
 (his ])rincipal seat) as next heir male, viz. son and heir of Sir George Manners, knt. 
 son of John Manners, esq. second son to Thomas, the first Earl of Rutland of this 
 family. 
 
 George, the seventh Earl, was succeeded by his cousin John, the grandson of John, 
 second son of Thomas, the first Earl of Rutland, who married Dorothy, daughter and 
 co-heiress of Sir George Vernon, of Haddon, called, from his magnificence and hos- 
 pitality. King of the Peak. By this marriage that branch of the family became pos- 
 sessed of thirty lordships. This John, son of the first P]arl, was knighted at ^\'ork- 
 sop, in Nottinghamshire, April 20, 1603, when he waited on James 1. on his arrival 
 from Scotland. He died at Haddon in 1611, and was buried at Bakewell. He was 
 succeeded in his estates by his eldest son George, who was born in 1573, and was 
 married in 1594, to Grace, the eldest daughter of Sir Henry Pierpont, of Holme 
 Pierpont, Knight of the Garter. On his death, which happened in 1623, he was
 
 94f HADDON, 
 
 succeeded in his estates by his son John, who eventually became the eighth Earl of 
 Rutland. The wife of this noble Earl was Frances, daughter to Edward Lord Mon- 
 tague, of the county of Northampton, by whom he had four sons and seven daugh- 
 ters. He Avas Sheriff' of the county of Derby in the 9th and 11th of Charles I. and 
 one of the Knights for that shire in the loth of the same reign. During the political 
 and religious struggles that ensued, his lordship, although unreservedly attached to 
 the i)arlianientary interest, remained unconnected with the turbulence of the times. 
 He was one of the twenty-two peers who continued at A\'estminster when the king 
 summoned both houses to attend him at Oxford. In consequence of this conduct, 
 his castle of Belvoir was seized by the royalists under the command of Sir Gervase 
 Lucas, Baptist Noel, Viscount Cainpden, and Mr. Mason, the rector of Ashwell, who 
 acted personally at the head of an independent company. Their standard was blue 
 and gold, with the motto, Ut Rex sit Rex. — As he is King, let him be King. — After 
 this, the P^arl of Rutland was nominated in the list recommended by parliament as 
 fit persons to be entrusted with the militia of the kingdom ; and in July, 16 13, his 
 lordship was appointed to accompany lord Grey of ^Verke on an ambassy to the Scots, 
 to desire aid and assistance for the maintenance of the religion and liberties of the 
 realm. His lordship, however, on the plea of iUness declined this journey, and ob- 
 tained a release. On the IGth of October in the same year, the Earl of Rutland took 
 the solemn league and covenant. In the meantime the castle of Belvoir remained in 
 the hands of the royalists, and the governor, Colonel Gervase Lucas, assisted by Sir 
 Richard Byron, governor of Newark, marched to Melton Mowbray, where he sur- 
 prised a body of the parliamentarians, which he completely defeated, and brought 
 the leaders, vvith their ammunition and colours, in triumph to Belvoir castle. Short- 
 ly afterwards, CJol. VVayte, who commanded at Burleigh house for the parliamenta- 
 rians, sallied forth with sixty chosen men, and fell in with a party of royahsts from 
 Newark and Belvoir, at Stroxton heath, and defeated them. Sir Gervase Lucas was 
 in this engagement sorely wounded over the face, and was nearly taken prisoner at 
 the first charge. At a second charge. Col. AVayte had his horse shot under him, but 
 his opponents taking to their heels, he pursued them to the walls of Belvoir. Sixty 
 of the horse were taken, together with forty-six prisoners. Much of the plunder 
 which had been seized by the royalists was recovered, and the whole was conveyed 
 to Leicester. On the 9th of the following month, the royalists of Belvoir were again 
 defeated. In the March of 1634, the Earls of Rutland and Bolingbroke of the 
 Peers, I\Ir. St. John, Serjeant AFild, Mr. Brown and Mr. I'rideaux, were nominated 
 as Commissioners of the Great Seal ; but the Earl of Rutland, upon some scruples of 
 conscience objected by him, was excused from that service, and the Earl of Kent was 
 nominated in his place. — During this disturbed period, many skirmishes occurred 
 between the royalists of Belvoir and Newark under Sir Gervase Lucas, and the par- 
 hamentary troops with various success: but the noble Earl sided with the more mod- 
 erate of the parliamentarians, and endeavoured so to use his influence as to bring 
 about a termination of those conflicts which desolated the country. His adherence 
 to the ceremonies of the church brought him sometimes under the suspicions of the 
 parliamentary leaders. On the 8th of April, 1615, the House of Commons having 
 been informed that the venerable Bishop of Durham, who had been domestic chaplain 
 to the noble Earl's family, had christened a daughter of the Earl, by the sprinkling of 
 water and the symbol of the cross, was committed to the custody of the serjeant at 
 arms. A committee of enquiry into this offence was appointed, but his lordship ap- 
 pears to have retained sufficient influence to prevent any report being made. — On 
 the 25th of October in the same year, the Earl of Rutland represented to the House 
 of Peers that his whole estate in Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and 
 Yorkshire, was in the possession of the royalists : tliat his houses were despoiled, and 
 that he had not received any rents. He also stated that Lord Viscount Campden 
 had been a principal instrument in the ruin of his castle, lands and woods about Bel- 
 voir, and he estimated the damage at above £20,000. He accordingly prayed for a 
 grant out of Lord Viscount Campden's fine for delinquency. It was agreed by both 
 houses that £1500. a year should be allowed and paid to the Earl of Rutland out of
 
 HADDON. 
 
 95 
 
 Lord Viscount Campden's estate, until £'oOOO. be levied from the said estate for the 
 use of the Earl of Rutland. — The king frequently resided at Belvoir during these 
 commotions. At the latter end of the year id 15, the parliamentary troops under 
 Major General Poyntz, invested the castle of Belvoir. On the 20th of November the 
 outworks and stables (which had been fortified) were taken by assault; and at this 
 period, by the consent of the Earl of Rutland, the whole village of Belvoir was de- 
 stroyed. — It was during the siese of his family residence that the Earl of Rutland, 
 Avith the Earl of Lincoln, Lord W'illougliby of Parham, Lord Mountague, Sir Arthur 
 Hasselrigge and seven others, members of the House of Commons, were authorized 
 to go to the Scottish army, then in P^ngland, and to consult cliiefly for effecting a 
 junction with the Enghsh forces, for the reduction of Newark. M'hile employed on 
 this business, and residing with the army in the neighbourhood, the noble Earl wrote 
 the followine; letter. 
 
 " For the Governor of Belvoir Castle. These, 
 
 " Grantham, 29 Jan. 1615-6. 
 " Sir, 
 "Wee are sent downe, and .authorized by the two 
 howses of parliament, to use our best endeavours for 
 finishing tliis bloody, intestine warre, wlierewith this 
 kinsdome hath bien now for some time afflicted. 
 And, in jjursuance of that dutv, wee doe hereby, in 
 their names, demand of you, that you surrender up 
 into our hanrls the castle of Belvoire for their use. 
 Wee doe further let you knowe the pious care of par- 
 liament to prevent (as farr as possibly may bee) the 
 effusion of Christian blood, and the destruction of the 
 towns and castles and howses in this knigdoiiie; and 
 accordingly are willing toentertayiiea treaty with you. 
 Wbereinito we shall only adde, that, if you refuse or 
 neglect the niereye of the parliament at this tyme 
 while it may be had, and flatter yourselfe with vayne 
 hopes that you inay obtaine as good and honourable 
 conditions hereafter as at present; wee doe most un- 
 fainediyassure you, you will utterly deceive yourselfe. 
 Besides, wee thinke goode to advertize you, that it is 
 not the part of a souldier, nor of a wise man, to en- 
 deavour the holding of a place not tenable, when there 
 are not the least h()i]es of being relieved. Which act 
 in you will by all men be interpreted, rather an affect- 
 ed obstinacy, than a souldierly resolution. Consider 
 likewise seriously with yoursdfe, that the exposing so 
 many Christians, as are now under your command, to 
 manifest destruction, will undoubtedly be required of 
 you. Wee will expect your answer by 8 of the clock 
 to-morrow morning. 
 
 Rutland. 
 
 W. PlERREPOINT, Enw. Ayscoghe. 
 
 W. Armvne, Tiio. Hatcher. 
 
 " For the Right Honourable the Committee of Lords and 
 Commons at Grantham. 
 
 " My Lords and Gentlemen, 
 "I shall most cheerfully meet you in a pious care 
 for the preventing theeffusion of (Christian blood, and 
 will assigne gentieinen to treat with such as you ap- 
 jioynte; desireing to knowe the persons, tyme, and 
 place of meeting ; and rest your humble servant, 
 
 Belvoire castle, Gervase Lixas. 
 
 30/A of Jan. 8 a clock in the morne." 
 
 This important event was immediately communi- 
 cated to the parliament in the following terms : 
 
 " For the Hon. William Len/hall, speaker of the House 
 of Commons at fVestminstei • 
 
 " Grantham, 31 Jan. late at night. 
 "Sir, 
 '* Wee thought fitt to summon Belvoire castle, in 
 our names, for sundry reasons conducing to your .ser- 
 vice. A cojjy is herein inclo.sed, and the governor's 
 answer, together with the articles of surrender agreed 
 on by those appointed to treat. The bearer hereof, 
 captain Henry Markham, can fully relate all particu- 
 lars ; who hath had his share in the hard duty. And 
 truly, sir, wee must needs say, that colonel Grey and 
 the soldiers under his command, as likewi.se the several 
 troopes of horse, have all of them performed their 
 duty with much cheerfulness. And, for their en- 
 couragement, and tiie better furthering of your ser- 
 vice, wee have promised them one week's pay, which 
 was about £600. and hope you will enable us to per- 
 form itt. Wee find so much difficulty in (irocuring 
 the mortar-pitce from Ueadiiig (and nowe the weather 
 is broken, the wayes so impassable) that your service 
 may suffer much before that come unto us. Where- 
 fore wee have sent for the casting of two at Notting- 
 ham. And, if you please to order the £550. to us, 
 and add somewhat more to it, we shall be able to pay 
 for them, and provide shells and other necessaries. 
 And we hope to have no need of a master of fire-works 
 to be sent, haveing with us one very expert ; and 
 others, who have done very great service against Bel- 
 voire. Wee shall now apply our whole endeavours for 
 the reducing of Newarke. Vour humble servants, 
 
 W. PlERRF.POI.NT, Enw. AVSCOCHE. 
 
 W. AuMV.NE, Tho. Hatcher." 
 
 " On the .'id of February, in pursuance of the ca- 
 pitulation, Belvoir castle, with its appurtenances, was 
 regularly surrendered to the eomnrander of the par- 
 liamentarian forces; who immediately appointed cap- 
 tain Markham governor of the castle; and rewarded 
 the vietoruius soldiers with an extra week's pay, 
 amounting to £600. 
 
 " The same day intelligence came to Ashby, that 
 Belvoir castle was surrendered ; and that the governor, 
 for his own security, had articled with the enemy, and 
 sent four hostages to Lichfield ; whither he and his 
 men were afterwards convoyed." 
 
 Many deserters from the royalist party sought shelter at Belvoir, probably being 
 induced to do so by tlie moderate and conciliatory conduct of the noble Earl ; but the 
 parliament, apprehensive of danger from such refugees, ordered that Belvoir should 
 be disgarrisoned, and tliat the new works should be demolished ; they at the same 
 time complimented the Earl by declaring him Chief Justice in Eyre of the forests and 
 chases beyond Trent; which situation was conferred upon him by the vote of both 
 houses. — ^Vhen the King was prisoner in the Isle of Wight, the Earl of Rutland 
 was by the House of Lords appointed one of the commissioners for accommodating
 
 96 HADDOX. 
 
 the affairs of the realm. Cromwell and the army seized upon the government, and 
 the commission of the noble Earl and his colleagues was at an end. The Lords re- 
 quested of the Commons that Belvoir castle might be deUvered up to the Earl, as his 
 inheritance, but the Commons directed three of their members to wait upon the Earl, 
 to acquaint him that there was an urgent necessity that the parliament should retain 
 possession of that place. 
 
 The residence of the Earl of Rutland at this period appears to have been at his 
 town house, near Ivv-bridge, in the Strand. Until the death of Edward, the third 
 Earl of Rutland, in 1587, the London residence of this noble family appears to have 
 been " near Puddle ^\'harf," within the city of London. Norden, in 1592, mentions 
 " the Earl of Rutland's house, near Ivy-bridge, in the Strand." In the epitaph of 
 Earl George, it is said that he died " at his house in the Savoy." — After the decapi- 
 tation of the king, there was no further occasion for Belvoir to be used as a garrison ; 
 and on the 1st of May, 1649, the council of state reported " their resolution for de- 
 molishing the castle, which the Earl of Rutland was content with ;" and on the 8th 
 of the same month, the council of state were directed to deraohsh the castle, and to 
 give satisfaction to the Earl of Rutland for the same. The sum allowed was £1500. 
 and it was ordered that the arrears of the fee-farm rent of Belvoir and Croxton, pay- 
 able by the said Earl to the state, should be allowed in part of the said sum ; and the 
 remainder to be satisfied out of the growing rent. 
 
 After the demolition of Belvoir, the Earl of Rutland resided principally at Haddon 
 in Derbvshire; and on the return of Charles II. he was received into the royal fa- 
 vour, ilis residence at Haddon was disturbed by commotions of the miners of that 
 district; and on the 2Sth of ^larch, 1649, he petitioned the House of Commons, 
 complaining of the riot and waste which he sustained by these inroads. As the rights 
 claimed by the miners, under their mining laws, appeared to be implicated in this 
 question, it was referred to the decision of the judges in the northern circuit ; but the 
 award, if any were made, is not known. The attachment of his lordship to the court 
 of Charles was sho%vn by his signature to a letter to the commissioners for the subsi- 
 dies for Leicestershire, and in 1666 he was appointed Lord Lieutenant of that county. 
 The remainder of his life was passed alternately at Haddon and Belvoir, where he 
 devoted himself to the duties of a country gentleman and to the re-building of the 
 dilapidated castle of Belvoir, which was completed in 1668, and adorned with gar- 
 dens, plantations and statues. His lordship died at Haddon, September 29, 1679, 
 in the 75th year of his age, and was bm-ied at Bottesford. 
 
 John, the third and only surviving son of the last Earl, became, on his father's 
 death, the ninth Earl of Rutland. He was born at Broughton in Northamptonshire, 
 29th of May, 163S. On the 29th of April, 1679, he was, by the royal patent, called 
 up to the House of Peers, by the title of Baron Manners of Haddon, but he soon 
 after succeeded his father as Earl of Rutland. "When only twenty years of age, he 
 married Lady Anne, the daughter and coheir of Henry Pierpont, Marquess of Dor- 
 chester, by whom he had a daughter, the Lady Frances, who died an infant, 7th of 
 February,' 1659. Under the tide of John, Lord Roos, he was elected a representative 
 of the county of Leicester in 1661. He then travelled beyond the seas, and at his 
 return, found cause to live in separation from his lady. On the Sth of February, 
 1666-7, he obtained an Act "for the illegitimation of the children of Lady Anne 
 Roos," and by an Act obtained three years afterwards he was enabled to marry again. 
 His father-in-law, the marquis of Dorchester, who was regai-ded as one of the most 
 talented noblemen of that period, opposed the divorce, and numerous letters and pam- 
 phlets were published on the occasion. — After obtaining the divorce, his lordship 
 married lady Diana Bruce, the daughter of the Earl of Aylesbury and widow of Sir 
 Seymour Shirley, bart. This lady cUed in child-bed, soon after her infant Robert, 
 who expired on the day of its birth. On the Sth of January, 1673, his lordship 
 married Catherine, the daughter of Baptist Noel, ^'iscount Campden, by whom he 
 had two sons and two daughters. This lady was the patroness of the celebrated 
 Thomas Heyrick, Avho dedicated to her a volume of his poems ; and her portrait, 
 having been' taken by Kneller, was engraved in mezzotint, by Smith, one of the earli-
 
 HADDON. 97 
 
 est and best artists in that style of enpjraying. — This noble peer took a distaste for 
 court life, and lived, in all the splendour of an English nobleman, at Belvoir castle, 
 without ever visiting the metropolis. So determined was he upon this rural seclu- 
 sion, that when his eldest son espoused a daughter of Lord llussel, he insisted upon 
 the insertion of an article in the settlement, by which she was to forfeit a portion of 
 her jointure, if ever she lived in London without his particular consent. Notwith- 
 standing these rural and retired habits, Queen Anne, in consideration of his great 
 merits and the services of his ancestors, advanced him, on the 29th of March, 1703, 
 to the titles of the Marquess of Granby, in the county of Nottingham, and Duke of 
 Rutland. His (Jrace died at Belvoir castle, in his 73rd year, on the 10th of January, 
 1710-1, and was buried at Bottesford. 
 
 John, the second Duke of Rutland, was the only surviving son of his father: he 
 was born on the 17th of August, 1676, and when scarcely seventeen years of age, 
 was married to Katherine, the second daughter of Lord ^V'illiam Russell, who had 
 been beheaded in 1683. Lady Rachel Russell, the estimable widow of the celebrated 
 patriot, in one of her letters, says, " The young people have just seen one another ; 
 he is a pretty youth, and as I am told, virtuously bred, and as free from all ill." 
 These nuptials were of sufficient importance to attract the notice of Queen Anne, 
 who congratulated Lady Rachel upon the occasion. 
 
 Sir Jauies Forbes thus pleasantly addresses lady Russell : " I could not miss this 
 opportunity of giving your ladyship some account of lord Ross and lady Ross's jour- 
 ney, and their reception at Belvoir, which looked more like the progress of a king 
 and queen through their country, than that of a bride and bridegroom's going home 
 to their father's house. At their first entry into Leicestershire, they were received 
 by the high sheriff at the head of all the gentlemen of the county, who all paid their 
 respects, and complimented the lady bride at Harborough. She was attended next 
 day to this place by the same gentlemen, and by thousands of other people, who came 
 from all places of the country to see her, and to wish them both joy, even with huzzas 
 and acclamations. As they drew near to Belvoir, our train increased, with some 
 coaches, and with fresh troops of aldermen and corporations, besides a great many 
 clergymen, who presented the bride and bridegroom (for so they are still called) with 
 verses upon their happy marriage. 1 caimot better represent their first arrival at 
 Belvoir, than by the VVoborne song that lord Bedlbrd liked so well ; for at the gate 
 were fcur-and-twenty fiddlers all in a row; four-and-twenty trumpeters, with their 
 tan tara ra ra's ; four-and-twenty ladies, and as many parsons ; and in great order 
 they went in procession to the great apartment, where the usual ceremony of saluting 
 and wishing of joy passed, but still not without something represented in the song; 
 as very much tittle-tattle and fiddle-fiddle. After this, the time passed away till 
 supper in visiting all the apartments of the house, and in seeing the preparations for 
 the sack-posset, which was the most extraordinary thing I did ever see, and much 
 greater than it was represented to be. After supper, which was exceeding magnifi- 
 cent, the whole company went in procession to the great hall; the bride and bride- 
 groom first, and all the rest in order, two and two ; there it was the scene opened, 
 and the great cistern appeared, and the healths began ; first in spoons, some time 
 after in silver cups ; and though the healths were many, and great variety of names 
 given to them, it was observed after one hour's hot service the posset did not sink 
 above one inch, which made my lady Rutland call in all the family, and then upon 
 their knees the bride and bridegroom's healths, with prosperity and happiness, were 
 drunk in tankards brim-full of sack-posset. This lasted till 12 o'clock, ^c. Madam, 
 your most hund)le and faithful servant, J. Forbes." 
 
 This lady died in child-bed, October 31, 1711, having been the mother of five sons 
 and four daughters.*
 
 98 HADDON. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1712-3, the Duke married Lucy, sister to Bennet Sherrard, 
 Earl of Harborough. By this marriage he had six sons and two daughters. In 1714, 
 his Grace was made Lord Lieutenant of the county of Leicester, and installed Knight 
 of the Garter. He tUed February 22, 1720-1, of the small-pox, and was buried at 
 Bottesford. 
 
 John, the eldest son, born October 21, 1696, was the third Duke of Rutland. He 
 married in 1717, Bridget, only daughter and heiress of lord Lexington, and on this 
 occasion an Act of Parliament was thought necessary to confirm the marriage dowry 
 and settlement. By this alliance, four manors in Nottinghamshire became the prop- 
 erty of the Rutland family, besides the seats of Avesham and Kelham. This lady 
 died at the age of 35. She was the mother of thirteen children, who all died young 
 except John," Robert and George. — His Grace Avas Knight of the Garter, Chancellor 
 of the Duchy of Lancaster, Lord Lieutenant and Gustos rotulorum of the county of 
 Leicester, and one of his Majesty's privy council. At the coronation of George IL 
 he carried the sceptre with the cross. In 1734, he was appointed captain of the band 
 of gentlemen pensioners : was also a lord of his Majesty's bed-chamber, and a governor 
 of the Charter-house. This was the last of the Dukes of Rutland who made Haddon 
 an occasional residence. He built the hunting-seat at Croxton, and made some im- 
 provements at Belvoir about the year 1750. His Grace died iMay 29, 1779, and was 
 buried at Bottesford. 
 
 The estate of lord Lexington having been settled upon the younger branch, an Act 
 of Parliament was obtained in 1735 to enable the two younger sens to take the name 
 of Sutton. In consequence of this Act, Robert, the second surviving son, took the 
 surname of Sutton, and settled at Kelham, in Nottinghamshire. This lord Robert 
 Manners Sutton, was ^lember of Parliament for Kingston-upon-Hull and for Not- 
 tinghamshire from the year 1747 until his death, 1762, and held many distinguished 
 appointments. In July, 1735, he was appointed one of the Gentlemen Ushers to the 
 King, and afterwards Aid-de-Camp to his Majesty ; Colonel of a regiment of Foot; 
 a Lieutenant General and Governor of Hull. He was succeeded by his younger 
 brother, lord George jNIanners Sutton, who married Diana, daughter of Thomas 
 Chaplin, of Blankley, co. Lincoln, esq. and by her he had seven sons and five daugh- 
 ters. The late Charles, lord Archbishop of Canterbury, was one of the surviving 
 sons, who was previously Dean of Peterborough and Bishop of Norwich, and es- 
 poused, on the 3rd of April, 1778, Mary, daughter of Thomas Thoroton, of Scrive- 
 ton, CO. Nottingham, esq. His Grace died on the 21st of July, 1828. The speaker 
 of the House of Commons, Hon. Charles Manners Sutton, is one of the sons of the 
 Archbishop ; and another son is lord Thomas ^Manners, of Foston, who, having been 
 bred to the bar, was appointed Solicitor General in 1802, one of the Barons of the 
 Exchequer in 1805, and Lord Chancellor of Ireland in 1807; upon which occasion 
 he was elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Manners. 
 
 Lord "William Manners was representative for the county of Leicester in the par- 
 haments of 1714, 1722, and 1727 ; and for the town of Newark in 1734, 1741, and 
 1747. He was also Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to George II. 
 
 Lord Sherrard Manners was representative in parliament for Tavistock. 
 
 Lord Charles ]\Ianners was Colonel of a regiment of Foot. 
 
 The eldest son of the third Duke was John, ^Marquess of Granby. He was born 
 on the 2nd of January, 1720-1. After the usual collegiate education, he entered the 
 army, and raised a regiment in the rebellion of 17 45. He was afterwards Colonel of 
 the Oxford Blues, and became Lieutenant General and Ccmmander-in-C"hief of his 
 Majesty's forces in Germany under Prince P'erdinand of Brunswick, wliere he dis- 
 tinguished himself with the greatest honoui-, judgment and intrepidity ; and no Com- 
 mander-in-Chief, perhaps, ever had a greater share than his lordship of the love and 
 affection of the troops he commanded. His lordship was also Master General of the 
 Ordnance ; representative in parliament for the county of Cambridge ; and one of his 
 INIajesty's Privy Council. He married lady Frances, eldest daughter and co-heir of 
 Charles Seymour, Duke of Somerset ; and died October 18, 1770. 
 
 The following letter will show the sentiments expressed by Leopold Frederick
 
 HADDON. 
 
 99 
 
 Francis, Duke of Anhalt Dessau, the friend of John, Marquess of Granby, towards 
 this noble family. 
 
 " My Lord, 
 " In the course of a tour, which I lately maile 
 throui>h Gerrmny, I visited the court of the Dul^e of 
 Anhalt Dessau ; one of the best and mO'^t revered 
 sovereigns in Germany. — \s soon as his serene High- 
 ness lieiril that my wife's name was Manners, he re- 
 doubled his kind attentions towards us both, and en- 
 quired with great eagerness respecting the present 
 state of the house of Rutland. He mentioneil that 
 when he was in England, about 51 years ago, he re- 
 ceived the greatest civihties fro n the celebrated Mar- 
 quess of Granby. and also from his father, the Duke of 
 Rutland, who (as his Highness observe.l) was called 
 ' the Old Man of the Hill.' I'he Marquess, however, 
 was his particular friend, and used to lend him his 
 horses whenever he visited at Bel voir. — Th"se, and 
 many other circumstances, were detailed bvthe Duke 
 with expressions of suicere gratitude, and of the in- 
 terest he has ever since taken in the prosperity of the 
 Rutland family. I tol I him, that if ever he returned 
 to England, he would find that courteous hospitality 
 is heredit.iry in the representatives of his old fiien>l ; 
 and that he mijjht admire, in more than on" Duchess 
 of Rutland, the characteristic beauty of our English 
 
 ladies. — His Highness replied, that an old man of 76 
 has but little chance of ever revisiting Great Britain, 
 however much he might wish it. But he n quested 
 that I would present unto your Grace, and ti the 
 Duchess, his sincere good wishes for your health and 
 welfare, and that of the young Marquiss; in which 
 good wishes, Mrs, S. and \ may perhaps be permitted 
 to unite. I have taken the liberty of bringing over a 
 striking likeness of his Highness, which I hope your 
 Grace will do me the honour to accept. If you should 
 think it worthy of oecnpving a place at l?elvoir. I 
 should recoinmend that theinscrijition upon the frame 
 should he, in gilt letters, I-eopoM Frederick Francis, 
 Duke of Anhalt Di>ssau, burn 1710; and below, the 
 friend of John, Marquess of tJranby. .Such a distinc- 
 tion (which I should not fail to communicitc) would 
 particularly gratify the Duke; who is, in every point 
 of view, entitled to consideration and respect. — 1 have 
 the honour to be. My Lord, 
 
 Vour Grace's very obedient humble servant, 
 
 GEORGE SINCLAIR. 
 Ham Common, near Richmond, 
 30 Dec. 1816. 
 
 His third son, Robert, who was born February 6, 1758, was a Lieutenant of the 
 Victory in Admiral Keppel's engagement, July 27, 1778, and soon after had the rank 
 of a Duke's son given him by his Majesty. Sir George Rodney made him a Post- 
 captain. January 17, 1780, the day after the defeat of the Spanish fleet. He went 
 to the West Indies in December following, with Sir Samuel Hood, as Captain of the 
 Resolution, of 74 guns, under Sir Chaloner Ogle, Commodore, in wliich ship he dis- 
 tinguished himself in the action with the French off the Chesapeake, September 5, 
 1781, and also in that off St. Kitt's, when he was one of the seconds to Commodore 
 Affleck, January 23, 1782. In the memorable engagement off Dominica, April 12, 
 that year, he was wounded in both legs, one of which was amputated below the knee ; 
 and had an arm also broken. He survived some days ; and, from t!ie goodness of 
 his constitution, great hopes were entertained of his recovery ; but, to the great loss 
 of his country and the service, he was carried off by a locked jaw on the 23rd follow- 
 ing. By his express desire, his remains, the day after his death, w^ere committed to 
 the deep, in lat. 31° 30', an hundred leagues from the island of Bermudas. Falling 
 in the bed of honour, he became one "of the three heroes to whom their grateful 
 country, by its representatives, decreed a monument to be placed among its national 
 worthies in Westminster abl)ey ; for which an ingenious writer at the time proposed 
 the following well-adapted lines : 
 
 " This last, just tribute, grateful Britiin pays. 
 That distant times may learn her lli'ro.s' praise. 
 Fir'd with like zeal, (icets yet unform'd shall gain 
 Another Ulair, a Manners, and a Bayne; 
 Anil future Chiefs shall unrcpining bleed, 
 AVhen Senates thus reward and celebrate the deed." 
 
 The following is an extract from an elegant poem, inscribed to the memory of this 
 hero of the house of Manners : 
 
 " Oh ! if in life one noble Chief appears, 
 Great in his name, while blooming in his years ; 
 Born to enjoy whate'er deliiilits mankind, 
 And yet to ail you feel or fear resigii'd ; 
 Who gave up pleasures you could never share, 
 For pain which you are seldom doom'd to bear ; 
 If such there bj. then let your murmurs cease. 
 Think, think of him, and take your lot in peace. 
 And such there was: — oh! grief, that checks our pride. 
 Weeping we say there was, fur Manners died; — 
 Belov'd of Hi-aven ! these humble lines forgive. 
 That suig of thee, and thus aspire to live. 
 
 As the tall oak, whose vigorous branches form 
 
 An ample shade, and brave the wildist storm. 
 
 High o'er the subject wood is seen to grow. 
 
 The guard and glory of the trees below ; 
 
 "Till on its head the fiery bolt descends. 
 
 And o'er the plain the shattcr'd trunk extends; 
 
 Yet tlien it lies, all wondrous as brfore. 
 
 And still the glory, though the guard no more. 
 
 So thou, when every virtue, every grai-p, 
 
 Uose \n thy soul, or shone within thy face; 
 
 Whi-n, though the son of Granby, thou wcrt known 
 
 Less by thy father's glory than thy own ;
 
 100 
 
 HADDON. 
 
 When honour lovM, and gave thee every chann, 
 
 Vire to ihy eye, ami vigdur to thy arm ; 
 
 Then frum our lofty hopes and longing eyes 
 
 Fate and thy virtues callM thie to the skies; 
 
 Vet still we wonder at thy tow'ring fame. 
 
 And, losing thee, still dwell upon thy name. 
 
 Oh! ever honour'd. ever valiied ! say 
 
 A\ hat verse can praise thee, or what work repay ? 
 
 A"et veise (in all we can) tliy worth repays, 
 
 Nor trusts the tardy ztal of future days; — 
 
 Honours for thee thy country sliall prepare, 
 
 Thee in their hearts tlie gooi'l, the brave, shall bear; 
 
 To deeds like tliine shall noblest chiefs aspire. 
 
 The muse shall mourn thee, and the world admire. 
 
 In future times, when smit with glory's tharms, 
 
 The untrv'd youth first ([uits a father's arms; 
 
 ' Oh be like him,' the weeping sire shall say, 
 
 • Like Manners walk, who walk'd in honour's way ; 
 
 In danger fon-most, yet in dtath sedate. 
 
 Oh ! be like him in all things, but his fate!" 
 
 If for that fate such public tears be shed. 
 
 That victory setms to die now thou art dead ; 
 
 How shall a friend his nearer hope resign. 
 
 That friend a lirother, and whose soul was thine? 
 
 By what bold lines shall we his giief expre.ss. 
 
 Or by what s<M)thing numbers make it kss ? 
 
 'Tis not, 1 know, the chiming of a song. 
 
 Nor all the powers that to the muse belong, 
 
 Words aptly cull'd, and meanings well exprest. 
 
 Can calm the sorrows of a wounded brea-t: 
 
 But Rutland's viitucs shall his griefs restrain. 
 
 And join to heal the bosom where they reign. 
 
 Vet hard the task to heal the bleeding heart. 
 
 To bid the still-recurring thoughts depart; 
 
 Hush the loud grief, and stem the rising sigh. 
 
 And curb rebellious passion with reply; 
 
 Calmly to dwell on all that pleas'd before, 
 
 And yet to know that all can please no more — 
 
 Oh ! glorious labour of the soul, to .save 
 
 Her captive powers, and bravely mourn the brave ! 
 
 •■} 
 
 To such, the.se thoughts will lasting comfort give:- 
 
 l.ife IS not valued by the time we live; 
 
 'Tis not an even course of threescore years, 
 
 A life of narrow views and paltry fears; 
 
 Grey liairs and wrinkles, and the cares they bring. 
 
 That take from death the terror or the sting: 
 
 But 'tis the spirit that is mounting high 
 
 Above the world; a native of the sky; 
 
 n he noble sjiirit, that, in dangers brave. 
 
 Calmly looks on, or looks beyond the grave. 
 
 Such Manners was; so he resign'd his breath ! 
 
 If in a gloiiiius, then a timely death. 
 
 Cease then that grief, and let tho.se tears subside: 
 
 If passion rule us, be that passion pride; 
 
 If reason, reason bids us strive to raise 
 
 Our sinking hearts, and be like him we praise; 
 
 Or, if afteetion, still the soul subdue. 
 
 Bring all his virtues, all his worth in view, 
 
 And let affection find its comfort too 
 
 For how can grief .so deeply wound the heart. 
 
 Where admiratiiiii claims so large a part? 
 
 Grief is a foe, exiiel hi in then, my soul : 
 
 Let nobler thoughts the nearer woes controul; 
 
 Oh ! make the age to come thy better care. 
 
 See other Rutlands, other Graiib\s, there; 
 
 And, as thy thoughts through streaming ages glide. 
 
 See other heroes die as Manners dud; 
 
 Victims victorious, who with him shall stand 
 
 In fame's fair book the guardians of the land ; 
 
 An<l from their fate thy race shall noliler grow, 
 
 As trees shoot upward that are pruii'd bilow: 
 
 Or, as old Thames, borne down with decent pride, 
 
 .'^ees his young streams go murmuring by his side; 
 
 Thouf;h Slime, by art cut oft", no longer run. 
 
 And some are lost beneath the summer's sun ; 
 
 Vet the strong stream moves on, and, as it moves. 
 
 Its power increases, and its use improves ; 
 
 While plenty round its siiaeious waves bestow. 
 
 Still it flows'on, and shall for ever flow." 
 
 Charles lord Roos, on the decease of his father, was Marquess of Granby, afterwards 
 member for the university of Cambridge ; and on the death of his grandfather, which 
 was on the 29th of May, 1779, became the fourth Duke. He raised a regiment of 
 Foot for the service of his country when at war with Ainerica and France; was 
 Steward of the Household; Recorder of Grantham, Cambridge, and Scarborough; 
 Vice President of the Middlesex, London, and Lock hospitals, and Welsh charities; 
 Lord Lieutenant and Custus Rotulorum of the county of Leicester; Colonel of the 
 Leicestershire militia ; Knight of the Garter ; and one of his ]Majesty's most honour- 
 able I'rivy Council. In February, KSi, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ire- 
 land ; and, by virtue of his oKice, was Grand-master of the n^^cst illustrious order of 
 Saint Patrick. He died Lord Lieutenant at Dublin, October 24, 1787, in the 34th 
 year of his age ; and was buried at Bottesford, with his ancestors, the 25th of Novem- 
 ber following. He married, December 26, 1775, the lady Mary- Isabella Somerset, 
 born August 1, 1756, daughter to Charles-Noel, fourth Duke of Beaufort; and by 
 her had is.sue four sons and two daughters ; John-Henry; Charles-Somerset, born 
 October 24, 1780; Robert-William, born December 14, 1781; William-Robert 
 Albanac, born June 1, 1783; Elizabeth-Isabella, born September 28, 1776; Katha- 
 rine-Mary, born April 29, 1779. 
 
 The following is an extract from the London Chronicle, 24th of October, 1787. 
 
 " Duke of Rutland' s death. 
 
 " On Sunday night two messengers arrived in town with despatches from Mr. Hamilton, for Mr. Pitt and 
 Lord Sydney, containing the melancholy intelligence of the death of his Excellency the Duke of Rutland, 
 Lord Lieutenant of Ireland ; the particulars of which are as follow : 
 
 " His Excellency, a day or two after his return to his residence in Phoenix Park, from his late tour through 
 Ireland, complained of being feverish; ami upon his physicians being consulted, their opinion was, that owing 
 to the violent living his Grace was obliged to subiiit to, during an excursion of three inotiths, together with 
 hard riding, his blood was extremely heated. Let it too be added, that his Grace travelled frequently seventy 
 miles a day on horseback, during his absence. 
 
 "On the lOth instant, eight days after the period of the tour aforementioned, his Excellency's malady in- 
 creased, so as to confiae him to his chamber. Tlie best skill was instantly called in, amongst whom Dr. Quin,
 
 H ADDON. 101 
 
 Mr. Neale the surgeon, and others of the faculty, are to be noticed. His disorder growing more violent, the 
 Doctors Wiirreii and Knox were sent to, and the latter genlleiiian was actually on his way to Holyhead when 
 the intulligeiice arrived. 
 
 " .>kill,'however, could have been of little avail. His Excellency died la^t Wednesday, a little iiast nine m 
 the evening. His body was optned enrlv the next morning, when his liver appeared so much dvcaytd and 
 waited, as to render his recovery impossible. 
 
 ■• DuriiiE; the Unite's illness, anninc other friends who scarcely ever left his Grace's chamber, or the ante-room, 
 Mr. Kinch, and Mr. Hamilton his Sicretarv, are to be nientiontd. 
 
 " His (iraie of liutland met his death with the most philisophic composure; he was sensibleof his approach- 
 ing end for many hours iireecding his dissolution; he ixpre.-sud a wit,h to sie the Duchrss, butadihd, to Dr. 
 Qnin, • 111 point of time it will be impossible, 1 must therefore be content to die with her imaije before my 
 mind's eye." 
 
 " A circumstance attending the above calamity, which is to be highly regretted, is, that her Grace the Huchess 
 of Rutland, set out (111 Snnday morning at 1 '2 o'clock from the Duelitss of lieaut'ort's, on her way to HoUhead, 
 and propostd travelling night and day: and what adds to themortifieation is, that although three couriers v^eie 
 on the road with the unpleasant intelligence aforementiuned, they all missed her (iraee, owing t(> hir taking 
 the lUintingdon road. A messenger was, however, despatched la^t liight by the Duche»s of Btaufort to bring 
 her b:rck. 
 
 " His Excellency was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland on the 11th of February, 1784, and is the hrst 
 Viciroy to that kirigdom who ever ilied while holding the office. In point of state spleiurour, real power, and 
 dignitv, the Lord Lieutenant of Irc^land comes nearer to the grandeur and m;ijesty of a Kiiiu', than any Viceroy 
 in the universe His Grace's popularity in Ireland will occasion a general emicern thioUf;hout tliat kingdom. 
 
 " The Duke has been embalmed, and will lie in slate for a eeriain time; after which, he will be brought to 
 England, and be solemnly interred at Bottesford with his ancestry." 
 
 The following elegant eulogium of the late Duchess of Rutland, was printed and 
 widely circulated among the tenantry of the Duke. 
 
 " Her Grace was the second daughter of Frederick, Earl of Carhsle; she was horn 
 November 13, 1780, and married to John Henry, 5th Duke of Rutland, April 22, 
 1799, and died November 29, 182.5. The inunediate cause of her (irace's death was 
 an obstruction in the bowels, which resisted all the remedies employed for its removal. 
 P^or a few weeks previous to her death, she had occasionally complained of a sliglit 
 pain ; but it was her general habit to treat with iiidilFerence any indisposition with 
 which she was herself affected ; and no individual about her had the most remote 
 idea that she was seriously unwell, till her malady had made considerable progress. 
 
 " On Friday, three days before her death, she was gay and cheerful in the midst 
 of her family, and busily engaged in her usual occupation. She rode on horseback 
 over her extensive farm and plantations, and viewed some fat stock intended for ex- 
 hibition at Smithfield. On her return from riding, slie walked to her dairy and gar- 
 den, and dined as usual with her family on that day and on Saturday. On retiring 
 to her children's apartment on Saturday evening, she for the first time complained of 
 being seriously ill. Expresses were sent immediately for physicians from Grantham, 
 Leicester and Nottingham, and also to London, for Sir Henry Halford; but alas ! 
 in vain. When Sir Henry arrived, the sufferings of the Duchess, which had been 
 acute during thirty hours, had subsided into a complete prostration of strength, which 
 ebbed away in a very rapid and remarkable manner. 
 
 " T'he Duchess of Rutland has left seven affectionate children, three sons and four 
 daughters, to the care of an afflicted father, whose cruel fate it is to deplore the loss 
 of a companion, who, after more than twenty-six years of wedded happiness, and of 
 increasing admiration on his part, has been snatched from him, while yet in the prime 
 of life, in the meridian of beauty, and in the possession of a mind, whose compre- 
 hensive faculties were daily more and more tleveloping themselves. 
 
 " In this distinguished lady were uniteil the attractive softness of the most perfect 
 grace and beauty, with a vigour of understanding and a clearness of intellect seldom 
 equalled in either sex. Her taste was pure and refined ; she excelled in every elegant 
 female accomplishment ; and by her own spontaneous efforts, in the midst of gaiety 
 and pleasure, had stored her mind with much solid knowledge. Her piety was fer- 
 vent, simple, and unaffected ; her mind was early imbued with a deep sense of reli- 
 gion, which was confirmed by reflection, even in the joyous days of youthful happi- 
 ness. In her this feeling was not (as is often the case) the offspring of misfortune 
 or suffering, but it enabled her to bear the heavy afflictions by which her early-wedded 
 life was chequered, with a resignation and patient fortitude rarely to be found in a 
 youthful female mind, and derived only from an unbounded confitlence in the wisdom 
 and mercy of an all-seeing providence.
 
 102 HADDON. 
 
 " She lost four children, three sons and one daughter; the latter was particularly 
 dear to her, as her first-born child, and the former were successively objects of her 
 pride and hope, as heirs of an ancient and illustrious house. The effects of several 
 dangerous ilhiesses destroyed tlie comforts and active enjoyments of some years of her 
 hfe, though they did not at all aftect her patience and equanimity. 
 
 " She was the idol of that domestic circle, whicli was the joy and pride of her heart. 
 Unostentatious, but persevering in her efforts to improve the whole country around 
 her, she gradually and imperceptibly accomplished her well-formed plans, by a ju- 
 dicious application of the ample means which the indulgence of the kindest and most 
 affectionate husband placed at her disposal. 
 
 " By her good management his estates were improved, and the surrounding vil- 
 lages embellished ; and while her general views were enlarged and magnificent, she 
 did not disdain to interest herself in the most minute details that could improve the 
 habits, or increase the comforts of the poorest cottager. Her Grace was a successful 
 practical farmer, upon a large scale, and her exertions were rewarded by several prizes 
 and medals from the Societies for the encouragement of planting and agriculture. She 
 was particularly accurate in the economy of her farm, and made it not only an object 
 of amusement to herself, but of beneficial example to others. To those who remem- 
 ber this country twenty years ago, it may be said of this distinguished lady, ' Si 
 monumentum quwris circumxpice.' Mhile occupied in pursuits hke these, and in 
 personally superintending the education of her children, her active and capacious mind 
 embraced a wider range. Belvoir castle will long remain a splendid monument of 
 her taste in architecture ; and there exist many of her designs and plans, in progress 
 and in speculation, which would do credit to a professional artist. About eight years 
 ago she had completed in detail, very beautiful designs for an entrance to Hyde Park 
 Corner, and for the embellishment of the parks. Her taste and talent suggested and 
 directed the designs for the proposed Quay on the north bank of the river Thames ; 
 and she entered with ardour and enthusiasm into various plans for the improvement 
 of London and "Westminster. The elevation of York house, now in progress, was 
 the production of her Grace's taste; and the plans, even to the most minute particu- 
 lars, were formed under her immediate direction. But above all, she had devoted 
 much, time and taken great pains in the formation of a plan for a Royal Palace, suited 
 to a Sovereign of the British empire, and v.'hich it was proposed to place in a situa- 
 tion uniting all the advantages of health, convenience and magnificence. These are 
 subjects sufficient to occupy the life of a professional man ; but it is the remarkable 
 feature in the character of this extraordinary woman, that while she was engaged in 
 these various and often laborious occupations, she would have appeared, to a common 
 observer, to be absorbed in the enjoyment of the gay and brilliant pleasures of that 
 distinguished circle, of which she was herself the brightest ornament. 
 
 " England may boast of women of dazzling beauty — of women of refined taste and 
 brilliant accomplishments, of literary attainments, of masculine understanding and 
 solid information — of women possessing great taste for the Arts — and of many a fond 
 mother, occupied in superintending the education of her children. But qualities so 
 various never met together in any individual, till they were united in the person of 
 the lovely and ever to be lamt-nted Duchess of Rutland. 
 
 " Her benevolence was unostentatious ; her heart warm and affectionate ; her man- 
 ners somewhat diffident to strangers : but to those who had the pleasure to enjoy her 
 intimacy, they were perfectly fascinating. 
 
 " A disconsolate family will for ever deplore her untimely death ; a wide circle of 
 friends will be deprived of its bri;,htest ornament, and the country at large will have 
 reason to regret the loss of that public spirit, and of those varied talents, which were 
 beginning to attract general attention." 
 
 The fifth and present Duke of Rudand is John Henry, the eldest son of the last 
 Duke. His Grace succeeded to the title and estates in the tenth year of his age. He 
 is Knight of the Garter, Lord Lieutenant and Gustos Rotulorum of the county of 
 Leicester ; Recorder of Cambridge, Grantham and Scarborough, and a trustee of the 
 British museum.
 
 HADDQN. 
 
 103 
 
 His Grace is best known by the domestic virtues. Long united to the amiable and 
 talented lady, whose cultivated mind and elegant manners rendered the family circle 
 a continued scene of endearing pleasures, his Grace seems to have busied himself 
 little in the changes of the political world. Distinguished for his loyalty, he was the 
 intimate friend of his sovereign, and the princes of the royal family were fre(iuently 
 liis visitors and aKsociates, sharing in his converse and participating in the rural 
 amusements afforded by his extensive possessions in this and the neighbouring coun- 
 ties. His political opinions and sentiments were those of the throne, to which he 
 devoted all the support derivable from the extensive influence of his station and 
 opulence. At Belvoir, his Grace and the Duchess received tlie Prince Regent, in 
 the year 1813, who then stood sponsor, witii the Duke of York, to the infant Mar- 
 quess of Gran.by ; and since that period, his Royal Highness the late Duke of York, 
 frequently enjoyed the truly noble hospitalities of the illustrious host of Eelvoir.— 
 In the patronage of the fine arts, the noble Duke and his lamented lady were ever 
 ready with their liberal encouragement, and the re-erection of iielvoir castle is a proof 
 of their taste and munificence. Twice has that splendid mansion been reared and 
 embellished, at an expense scarcely calculable, by the generous spirit and perseverance 
 of its dignified owner. Beloved and esteemed by a numerous tenantry, and attached 
 to those agricultural pursuits on which the prosperity of the country so completely 
 depends, the Duke of Rutland employs himself in diffusing hajjpiness around him. 
 His own agricultural establishment is gi-eat, and conducted with that skill and care 
 which serve to set an example of correct attention to his tenantry. His plantations 
 are extensive, and the mountains of this county are crested with future forests, that 
 have been planted by his direction and under his auspices. On the moors of Derby- 
 shire is his shooting-box, called Longsliaw, where annually his Grace entertains, in 
 the ancient spirit of baronial hospitality, numbers of his friends and acquaintance, 
 and where the sports of angling and shooting grouse are enjoyed in the highest degree 
 of perfection. 
 
 The Duke of Rutland's Estates and Interests in the Count// of Berhy. 
 
 Aldwark, and Aldwark") 
 Grange, about j 
 
 Alport 
 
 Bakewell, of which 400 a. are) 
 wood / 
 
 Barlow Great 
 
 Harlow Little 
 
 Haslow 
 
 BulmtU 
 
 Cold Eaton 
 
 ConUsbury, in Upper Haddon 
 
 C'urbar 
 
 Darley-iii-the-Dule 
 
 Elton 
 
 Kroguatt 
 
 Haddon Ov.r 
 
 H.iddon Nether 
 
 Hathersage 
 
 Ditto, in exch,iiif;e for lands \ 
 in Uaslow with the Duke of > 
 Devonshire, from TOO to j 
 
 Hallam Little 
 
 Harthill 
 
 Mazlebase 
 
 Holmsfiuld 
 
 Ilkeston, wood included, \ 
 55«. 2r. .Up J 
 
 Middleton 
 
 Monyash 
 
 Kowsley Great 
 
 Rowsliy Little, wood in-\ 
 cIiuImI. li'O acres ) 
 
 SmeirillGranse 
 
 Stanton Woodhouse 
 
 Ditto, woods 
 
 Volgrave 
 
 a. 
 
 r. p. 
 
 
 800 
 
 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 116 
 
 
 
 
 ]82o 
 
 
 
 / L(l. of the Man. owner of 
 (.principal partof the town 
 
 
 
 ncipal 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 .5iy 
 
 1 53 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 1792 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 210.3 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 41.5 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 
 120'.' 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 216 
 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 157 
 
 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 6(; 
 
 
 
 Joint Lord of Ditto. 
 
 IISO 
 
 
 
 Lord of the .Manor. 
 
 lS.;,i 
 
 1 18 
 
 
 800 
 
 
 
 
 146 
 
 
 
 
 405 
 
 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 80.) 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 2061 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 1218 
 
 2 25 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 4.-)8 
 
 
 
 .loint Lord of Ditto. 
 
 Tithe of corn and hay. 
 
 Lord of the Manor. 
 
 5j3 
 
 
 
 801 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 4t.'9 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .544 
 
 
 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 625 
 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Patron of tlie Living. 
 
 Patron of the Living.
 
 i04 
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 MATLOCK is an irregular built village, partly situate on a high banlc and partly 
 Meitesford. jn a deep vale on the banks of the river DerAvent, 8 m. S. W. from 
 Chesterfield, 8 m. S. from Bakewell, 3 m. N. from Cromford, o m. N. from \Virks- 
 worth, 11m. X. E. from Ashbourn, 10 m. ^V. from Alfreton, 19 m. N. ^V". from 
 DerbV; and 145 m. X. X. M . from London. It is a post town, a township, consta- 
 blerv and parish, in the hundred of ^Virks^vorth and deanery of Ashbourn. Tliis 
 parish includes Matlock Bath, Matlock Bridge, Scarthin Xick, Lumsdale, Riber, 
 Starkholmes, ^^'i!lersley, and Cromford Bridge. 
 
 In 1821, there were 605 houses, which are built chiefly of gritstone, at ^latlock 
 village, and of tufa, brick and stone at Matlock Bath : these were occupied by 609 
 famihes, and 2920 inhabitants. Of the 609 families, 51 were chiefly employed in 
 agriculture, 551 in trade or handicraft, and 7 in professional pursuits or living inde- 
 pendent. The principal manufactures are cotton spinning, framework-k-nitting, 
 cotton-wick, fluor spar ornaments, bobbin net lace, hats. Sec. At Lumsdale there 
 are extensive bleach works, and a bone mill, the property of Mr. Garton. There are 
 several mines which give employment to some of the male population, and many of 
 the voung females figure lace. There are also three water corn mills, and a paper- 
 mill within the parish. The inhabitants of Matlock Bath are chiefly supported by 
 the influx of strangers, who congregate together here to enjoy the benefit of the min- 
 eral waters and the romantic beauties of the scenery of the place and neighbourhood. 
 
 Fairs are held on the 25th February, 2nd April, 9th May, 6th July, 4th and 25th 
 October. 
 
 The extent of the parish is 2630 a. 3 r. 21 p. of gritstone and limestone land, wa- 
 tered by the river Derwent and Bentley brook, about two-thirds of the land is grit- 
 stone and one-third limestone, partly freehold and partly copyhold. The land is 
 much divided, consequently the farms are small, at an average rental of about 30s. 
 per acre. The old enclosure consists of 911 a. 3 r- 21 p. and the new enclosure (by Act 
 of Parliament, in 17 SO) Avas 1719 acres. There are about 450 acres of wood, be- 
 longing to the two principal proprietors, Richard Arkv.Tight and Peter Xightingale, 
 esqrs. in about equal proportions. One-sixth of the land is arable, the other five- 
 sixths are meadow and pasture. The estimated annual value of all the buildings and 
 land is £7608. 13,5. 4</. The tithes belong to the rector, and are taken by composi- 
 tion according to a rate made annually. The landholders have paid 6.?. per acre for 
 hav, and 12*. per acre for wheat. The land and buildings are divided between 358 
 freehold and copyhold proprietors, there are about 190 of the latter. The average of 
 seven years parochial expenses are seven rates of £146. 16^-. each, being £1027. 12.?. 
 for poor and county rates and constables' accounts. The paupers are sent to Ashover 
 house of industry, to which the inhabitants contribute. The infant paupers are ap- 
 prenticed to farmers and trades. There are three male and one female friendly socie- 
 ties, besides a society of Odd Fellows. The roads are much improved, and several 
 good houses and neat cottages have been recently built in Matlock vale. The mineral 
 waters are at Matlock Bath, and at Allen Hill Spa. The bridges in this township, 
 repaired by the county, are Hunt bridge, Bentley bridge, and Matlock bridge. There 
 are two chapels, one belonging to the Calvinists, the other to the Primitive Methodists ; 
 one parochial day school, conducted upon the Lancastrian principle; (the school- 
 room is an excellent buUding, erected by the voluntary contributions of the inhab- 
 itants) ; one girls' school, wholly supported by Mrs. Sims ; a Sunday-school at the 
 Calvinist chapel, and one at the church, for children of both sexes, are supported by 
 voluntary contributions. The number of inns and hotels in the township are sixteen.
 
 MATLOCK. 105 
 
 IMatlock Bath is deliglitfully situate in a beautiful and picturesque ravine on the 
 western bank of the river Derwent, formed by rocks and mountains, which rise ab- 
 ruptly from the water's edge, particularly to the east, south, and north. *' 'I'he ap- 
 proach from the Derby road," says a modern writer, "is enchantingly romantic, its 
 effects being heightened by the contrast presented in the sudden transition from fer- 
 tile plains to rugged perpendicular rocks, projecting in all directions ; while the rapid 
 stream of the Derwent rolls murnuiring at their base, or sweeps along in solemn and 
 inaudible flow, occasionally shaded by trees, of which the profuse foliage exhibits a 
 rich and exquisite variety of tints, especially when their verdure has been mellowed 
 by autumnal suns." 
 
 The general name, Matlock, it must be observed, includes both the village of Mat- 
 lock and Matlock Bath. The former is as ancient as the Conquest, and is chiefly 
 situate on the eastern banks of the river ; the latter is considerably more recent in its 
 origin, and stands on the western margin. At the time of compiling the Doomsday 
 Book, Matlock appeai-s to have been a hamlet of the manor of Mctesford (the situation 
 of which is now unknown, but is supposed to have been at a place called Nestos or Xes- 
 tus, a little mining village at the foot of a high hill on the north side of the old JJath) 
 which was part of the demesnes of the crown. It afterwards became a part of the estate 
 of \V'^illiam de Fen-ers, Earl of Derby, who had a charter of free warren for his demesne 
 lands here. On the attainder of his son, Robert tie Ferrers, for espousing the cause 
 of Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicester, Matlcck, then become a manor, reverted to 
 the crown ; and was granted, in 7 Edward L to Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and 
 continued a part of the possessions of the earldom and duchy of Lancaster, till 4 
 Charles L when it was granted by the king, along with a great number of other 
 manors and estates, to Edward Ditchfield and others, in trust for the mayor and 
 citizens of London. Li the year following it was sold by Ditclifleld, and tlie otl'.er 
 trustees, to John Middleton and others, as trustees for the coi)yliol(lers of the manor 
 of Matlock, and is now divided into several small shares. The rights of the manor 
 have ever since been vested in a succession of Trustees for the Proprietors, some of 
 whom are possessed of copyhold and freehold lands, and others of freehold lands only. 
 
 King (Jharles the First, on 9th September, 1&2H, by letters patent, grants unto 
 Edward Ditchfield and others, all that the manor or royalty of Matlock, in the county 
 of Derby, with all rights, members and appurtenances thereto belonging (amongst 
 which are all rivers, waters, fisheries, cottages, ike.) under the yearly rent of £16. 
 10.9. 3^.. 
 
 By bargain and sale, enrolled in chancery 0th November, 1629, the said Edward 
 Ditchfield and others, did (in consideration of £622. 16.y. 8<:/. and under the said re- 
 served rent to the crown) bargain and sell unto John Middleton, Ariel Moore, 
 Richard Senior, and George Ileathcote, their heirs and assigns, the said manor or 
 royalty of Matlock aforesaid, with all the appurtenances thereto belonging. 
 
 By articles of agreement, made 14th January, 1629, between the said John Mid- 
 dleton, Moore, Senior, and Ileathcote, of the one part, and the Copyholders of j\lat- 
 lock, of the other part, it is expressed and declared that the said manor or royalty was 
 conveyed to the said John Middleton and the others, in trust for the then Copyholders 
 within the said manor in proportion to their then respective chief rents yearly issuing 
 and payable out of their respective copyhold lands within the said manor amounting 
 in the whole to £14. 13.v. 5d. 
 
 And by indentures of lease and release, dated 18th and 19th August, 1769, the said 
 manor and premises were by the direction of a major part of the proprietors tiiereof 
 conveyed by Robert Newham and John Wall (the then two surviving trustees, in 
 whose names all courts and all transactions relating to the said manor had for some 
 time been held and carried on, though the deeds appointing them trustees are lost or 
 mislaid so as not to he found) unto Bache Thornhill, B. Boothby, F. Hurt, William 
 Milnes, and Alexander Barker, esqrs. in trust for the proprietors thereof, wliich pro- 
 prietors or lords are very numerous. Mr. Thornhill is now the only surviving trus- 
 tee. James Milnes, of Matlock, esq. is steward of the manor. A court is held un- 
 der the Trustees appointed on behalf of the copyholders twice a year.
 
 106 
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 
 The handsome gothic tower church is built on a limestone rock, on a considerable 
 elevation, and is a picturesque object. This structure contains a nave, side aisles and 
 a small chancel ; the outside is embattled, having an ancient tower surmounted by 
 pinnacles, whimsically decorated with grotesque figures of animals for spouts. It is 
 dedicated to St. Giles. The living is a rectory, valued in the king's books at £11. 
 2^. 8^. and yearly tenths £1. 2.?. 3d. in the gift of the Dean of Lincoln. The rector 
 receives the small and great tithes which amount to about £320. per annum, and the 
 rental of 40 acres of glebe, besides the surplice fees. The Rev. Dr. Holkliara has 
 been many years rector, and the Rev. Henry Sim is the present curate. 
 
 Monumental Inscriptions in the Church. 
 
 Here Iveth the bodies of Anthonie Wnollov and 
 Agnes his wvefe, wliicli Anthonie tiyethe II II. <lae of 
 September, in the veer of our lorde lo~S, 7-i, on whose 
 soules God bathe taken mercy on. The effigies are 
 in scroll fines, on .in altar tomb in the west aisle of 
 the church. They had issue four sons and two daugh- 
 ters, John, Edward, Aiithony, Thomas, Ann and 
 Jane. 
 
 Near this place were interred the remains of Adam 
 Wollev. of Allen Hill, in this parish, and of (frace his 
 wife. He was born in the year 15.')8, married at the 
 parish cluirch of Darley on the 1st day of October, 
 I5SI, and after continuing in wedlock with his said 
 wife for the long period of 76 years, died in the month 
 of August, l(>.i7, in the hundredth year of his age: 
 she was horn in the year 1559, and died in the month 
 of July, l(ifi9, aged 110. and for ti;c purpose of record- 
 ing so extraordinary but well autlienlicated an in- 
 stance of longevity, and long continuance in the state 
 of wedlock, their great, great, great, great grandson, 
 Adam Wolley, of this parish, pent, caused tliis me- 
 morial to be erected in the year 18'^J. 
 
 To the memory of Captain VVdIiam Cumming, of 
 the 8:ird British regiment, and 9th Portuguese caca. 
 dores, who having fougit in the battles of Oporto, 
 Talavera and Buzaco, and Fuentes De Dnoro, fell in 
 an attack un the Trench outposts near Bayonne, Oc- 
 
 tober 9, isn, in the 30th year of his age. This tablet 
 was erected by his brothers, in whose esteem and af- 
 fection he had that place, to which firmness of mind, 
 and urbanity of manners, justly entitled their pos- 
 sessor. 
 
 Rev. Godfrey Fern, M. A. died 24th June, 1751, 
 aged 48. 
 
 Kev. Lawrence Whittaker, late curate of St. Mary's 
 church, Nottingham. He died at Matlock Bath, 4th 
 day of June, 17(59, aged 40. 
 
 George Spatenian died 1st April, 1647. 
 
 Samuel Spateman died 15th January, 1658. 
 
 Hie jacet Richardus Smith quondam istius Ecclesiffi 
 Rector qui mortem obiit An. Dom. 1R40. 
 
 Memorise Sacrum Joseph! Fern, A. M. Hujus Ec- 
 clesise Pectoris viri pietate religione moribus antiquis 
 qui numeris laboribus non ainiis confectus falis con- 
 cesset septimo idus Aprilisaiino ^tatis6.i -Ira; Chri.s- 
 tianaj 1717. HicJana; uxorispientissimae cineres juxta 
 apposite Godfridi Watkinsoni de Brampton generosi 
 liiia; qujB niatura coelo, marito prius occupavit Svo 
 calendas Augusli Anno jDtatis 19, salutis 1714, E nu- 
 merosa prole quam uteri loecundi uxor peperit mani- 
 bus etiam hie justa tiunt Matthaee, Samuelis, Eliza, 
 betha?, Susanna?, Josephi alterius Elizabeths and 
 Janaj, Mariam, Godfridum, Annam, Saram, huic fa- 
 milix fati violantia nondum iiividit.
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 107 
 
 Charities. 
 
 Bradley Joshua 
 
 Clark Daniel 
 
 Garratt Thomas 
 
 Gisborne Rev. Francis- 
 Johns Thomas 
 
 Spateman George 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Walker William 
 
 Wolley Anthony 
 
 Rent charge 
 
 Kent charge 
 
 £100 
 
 Funds 
 
 Hent charge 
 
 £80. "t laid out in land I 
 £20. f5a.3r.5p. \ 
 
 Rent charge 
 
 Land* 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 5 10 
 
 
 
 7 5 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 4 16 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 L'6 5 
 
 
 
 Poor 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Schoolmaster... 
 
 I'oor 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Schoolmaster... 
 
 Will, l.")th March, 1738. 
 Will, ajth June, 17-'G. 
 Will, 'J.3rd June, 1791. 
 Deed, 1H17. Will, 1«I8. 
 Will, t'8tii February, \(i6^. 
 Will, sath March, lfii7. 
 
 Ditto. 
 Will, '27th February, 1651. 
 Will, 17th July, 166S. 
 
 The National System was introduced into the school in 1818, and a new schoolmas- 
 ter was appointed in 1820, by the Rev. Dr. Holkham and the late Adam \V'olJey, esq. 
 on the recommendation of the Rev. P. Gell. Boys only are now admitted into this 
 scliool, tliere being a school in the parish for girls, conducted on the National System, 
 and supported by voluntary contributions. No boys are taught free of expense. 
 The school is open to all the sons of the inhabitants of Matlock, on the payment for 
 each boy of 2d. per week for instruction, and 2s. per annum to a fund for providing 
 books, tiring, and rewards. 
 
 On an eminence above Matlock church, called Riberhill, are the remains of what has 
 been supposed a Druidical altar, but which has more the resemblance of a cromlech ; 
 though it may probably have only been intended as a point for the transmittal of sig- 
 nals. It is called the Hirst Stones, and consists of four rude masses of gritstone: 
 one of which, apparently the smallest, is placed on the others and is computed to 
 weigh about two tons. On the ujiper stone is a circular hole, six inches deep and 
 nine in diameter, wherein, about fifty years ago, stood a stone pillar. 
 
 The vale of Matlock possesses a character for beauty united with grandeur that 
 can scarcely be paralleled elsewhere. Its lofty cliffs rising from the banks of the 
 Derwent are bold and romantic. ^V^ooded rocks and the open valleys appear in a 
 variety that may almost be termed endless, along the continual windings of the vale, 
 through which the Derwent flows sometimes over fragments of stone and sometimes 
 forming cascades amid luxuriant fohage. 
 
 About a mile from Matlock, to the right of the hiU called Riber Top, is a romantic 
 glen, covered with wood and watered with a stream, which is broken in its rapid 
 course among fallen rocks, and forms a cascade. The scenery of this spot has been 
 declared "fit for the pencil of Salvator Rosa." Fern, fox-glove, heath and under- 
 wood cover the lower part of the right bank of this singular dell. \Vhen the stream 
 (called Bentley brook or the Lums) is swollen with rain, the river rushes over the 
 top of the rock through a narrow cleft ; and, interrupted in its descent by craggy 
 projections, it is dashed into foam, and fiUs the air with a shower, through which the 
 rays of the sun sometimes dart and throw a bow of lucid sj)lendour on the adjacent 
 rocks. The water falls about eighty feet. The mills upon this stream belong to the 
 bleaching manufactory of Mr. Garton, and to the cotton-wick manufactory of .Messrs. 
 Radford. 
 
 At some distance from this romantic spot, is Matlock Bank, on which is a vener- 
 able lime tree, said to be the same mentioned in certain writings, more than six hun- 
 dred years old, now in the possession of a gentleman at Doncaster. From j\Iat- 
 lock Bank a diversity of beautiful prospects is presented to the spectator, and that which 
 particularly claims notice, displays the church romantically situate amongst groups 
 of trees on the verge of a rock. 
 
 Mr. Malcolm, a writer of celebrity in the Gents. ^Magazine, thus describes the view 
 on entering Matlock from Chesterfield, at the time that the funeral of Sir Richard 
 Arkwright was passing to Matlock churcli, where it was first interred, but has been 
 since removed to Cromford chapel. " As the ground I was on was much iiigher 
 than the Tor, or any of the hills at ]\Iatlock, I was at once surprised and ileiiglited 
 with the grand and awful scene that expanded below me ; all the rich profusion of 
 wild nature thrown together in an assemblage of objects the most sublime. To 
 heighten the view, the Tor, and rocks near it, were covered with crowds of people. 
 
 * About 9 acres of land was given at the time of the enclosure, in 1780, in exchange for other property.
 
 108 MATLOCK. 
 
 Never did man appear to nie before in so Imniiliating a state ; contrasted with the 
 vast piles of rock and mountain, he seemed diminished to a speck, an atom. My 
 curiosity was raised to account for this, I hail nearly said phirnomenon ; crowds on 
 the summits of places almost inaccessible, never visited but by an adventurous travel- 
 ler or unlucky boy : sometimes, indeed, a straggling cow will advance to the verge of 
 the rocks, and snufF the air. Instances have been known, when these animals have 
 ventured too far, rolled down the precipice, and have been dashed to pieces. After 
 viewing with delight this assemblage of nature's works, I began to descend. The 
 way was now lined with houses ; and, at each step, it was amusing to observe Mat- 
 lock hills rising into consequence, till reaching the bridge, they nearly disappear ; 
 when turning, you view the road you have passed winding up an uncultivated hill, 
 intersected by stone walls and cottages. The bridge is plain, strong, and in good 
 repair ; the houses are comfortable, but much scattered ; the church is plain, except 
 the tower, which is rather handsome ; its situation is fine, on the top of a consider- 
 able precipice ; many trees grow on the abrupt edge, and at the bottom. Upon pas- 
 sing the river, you enter the valley in which it glides ; each step adds to the beauty 
 of the scene. The road winds close by the side of the river, sometimes hid by a 
 group of trees. The boat-house, placed under a rock, and overgrown with foliage, 
 must not pass unnoticed, on viewing the vast and extended wall which towers tre- 
 mendous before you, unshaken by time, though not impervious to persevering man ; 
 for many chasms in this pile afFord passages to mines, some worked, some neglected. 
 To the right, as you proceed, the hill rises to a great height, nearly uninterrupted by 
 rocks ; while the opposite side makes an acute angle, near which is the High Tor, 
 rising in awful grandeur. This rock is 350 feet high, and nearly perpendicular ; it 
 is pointed at the top. For a very great depth tliis rock is quite bare, and much 
 smoother than any around it ; the descent then becomes less abrupt : the river Der- 
 went bubbling over the various weirs beneath. At the foot a mine is worked, which 
 penetrates a great cUstance, a shaft meets it from the surface at the back of the Tor. 
 
 " The road was now nearly impassable from the crowds of people who had assem- 
 bled to witness the procession of Sir R. Arkwright's funeral, on its way to Matlock 
 church, where he was to lie until Cromford chapel, then begun, was finished ; a better 
 opportunity could not have offered of judging of the popidation of the place, which is 
 surprisingly great. The ceremony was conducted with much pomp, and as nearly as 
 I can remember, was thus : a coach and four with the clergy ; another with the pall- 
 bearers ; the hearse, covered with escutcheons, surrounded by mutes, followed ; then 
 the horse of the deceased, led by a servant ; the relations, and about fifteen or twenty 
 carriages, closed the procession, which was nearly half a mile in length. The evening 
 was gloomy, and the solemn stillness that reigned was only inten-upted by the rum- 
 bling of the carriages, and the gentle murmurs of the river; and as they passed, the 
 echo of the Tor gently returned the sound. The whole was so rich and uncommon, 
 that I continued to gaze till a turn in the road closed the whole. How greatly would 
 the effect have been heightened by a choir chanting a dirge ! My ambition at Mat- 
 lock has been to roam over precipices to view the thuniler-cloud peep in lustre al- 
 most intolerable, from behind the hills, to see it rise roll over roll, increase, till, 
 growing from dazzling white to impenetrable darkness, the wind bursts tremendous 
 dov.n the valley, bending trees before it, and emulating the harsh notes of reverbera- 
 ting thunder, which at intervals increases the horror." 
 
 The writer in the Beauties of England and ^V^ales says, " The romantic and sub- 
 limely picturesque scenery of Matlock dale, is viewed to most advantage when ap- 
 proached from the bridge near its northern extremity ; as its beauties then succeed 
 each other in a gradation which renders their grandeur and effect more impressive. 
 The attention is first arrested by a vast rampart of limestone rock, clothed with yew- 
 trees, ehns, and limes, of singularly beautiful shapes and foliage, from the recesses of 
 which the humble church of Matlock displays its pinnacles. Further on the views 
 become more interesting ; and the High Tor, rearing its awilil brow on the left bank 
 of the river, bursts upon the sight in extreme magnificence. The height of this stu- 
 pendous rock is upwards of 350 feet. The lower part is covered with small trees and
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 109 
 
 underwood, of various foliage ; but the upper part, for fifty or sixty yards, is one 
 broad mass of naked perpendicular rock. The fragments that have fallen from this 
 eminence form the bed of the river, which flows immediately below ; a bed so broken 
 and disjointed, that the foaming waters roll over the obstructing masses with restless 
 rapidity, and considerable noise. After sudden and heavy rains, the impetuosity of 
 the current is greatly increased, and the sublimity of the view proportionably aug- 
 mented. 
 
 " Immediately opposite to the High Tor, but rising with a less steep ascent, though 
 to a greater elevation, is Masson Hill, which appears like a pile of immense crags 
 a Pelion upon Ossa. 'l"he summit of this mountain has been named the Heights of 
 Abraham, and overlooks the country to a vast extent ; besides commanding a beauti- 
 ful bird's-eye view of nearly the whole dale. From this point even the High lor 
 loses its sublimity ; but this effect is fully compensated by the variety of interesting 
 objects included in the prospect. The height of this eminence is about 2.K) yards; 
 the path to its summit has been carried in a winding, or rather zigzag direction, and 
 in various places on each side has been planted rows of firs, which, opening at conve- 
 nient distances, and at different elevations, admit the eye to range over the beautitul 
 scenery beneath. 
 
 " The romantic cliff which forms the eastern boundary of the dale, is seen to much 
 advantage from the Old Bath, where the river recedes in a curve from the road, and 
 a little strip of meadow, rendered picturesque by three small buildings in the cottage 
 style, composes the foreground. ' This is finely composed and backed by a hue ot 
 rock and wood, a mass of trees rising to the right, and shutting out for a short time 
 all other features of the scenery.' On crossing the river near this spot, it may be 
 observed, that the natural beauties of the place have received some improvenients 
 from art. Three paths are seen, pointing through the wood in different directions : 
 one of them, called the Lover's AValk, has been carried along the margin of the river, 
 and is arched by the intermingled branches of the trees which enclose it. 'i'he others 
 ])ursue a winding course to the summit of the rock, which is attained with little ilif- 
 ficulty, through the judicious mode observed in forming the slopes, and placing the 
 steps ; though the acclivity is exceedingly steep. Variety of luxuriant trees inter- 
 weave their fantastic roots on each side of the paths, and shelter them with their as- 
 piring branches. These walks communicate with the pleasure grounds and gardens 
 of Mr. Arkwright. The prospects from the brow to the precijiice are very fine.
 
 110 MATLOCK. 
 
 ^^ ithin the last few years the rocks have built in the trees on each side cf the river. 
 Mr. Arkwright gave orders not to destroy them, and they have in consequence be- 
 come an increasing family, and these industrious and noisy birds very much enliven 
 the dale. 
 
 " From the Batlis, to the southern entrance of the dale, near Cromford, the fea- 
 tures of the scenery are continually varying. The river sometimes flows in a smooth 
 and gentle stream, reflecting the pendant boughs that wave upon its margin ; and 
 sometimes rushes over a ledge of rocks, or the rude fragments that have been torn by 
 storms from the impending chffs wliich overhang its waters. Some of these are en- 
 tirely bare ; but others are partially covered with shrubs and underwood, which take 
 root in the crevices of the rocks, and flourish in considerable vigoiu-, though appa- 
 rently bereaved of every means of obtaining noiu-ishment. 
 
 " The western bank of the Derwent, between the turnpike at Matlock and the 
 Old Bath, is one vast bed of tuphus, or calcareous incrustations, which has been de- 
 posited by the waters flowing from the warm springs. This is vulgarly called petri- 
 fied moss, and appears to have been formed on a morass, or collection of moss, 
 shrubs, and small trees, which having incrusted, the vegetable matter gradually de- 
 composed, and the stony envelopement assumed the entire figure of the nucleus it 
 had destroyed. 
 
 " The petrifying spring, near the New Bath, has furnished innumerable specimens 
 of these kind of transmutations of vegetable, animal, and testaceous substances, that 
 have been exposed to its influence. The collection exhibited by the person who 
 keeps the spring, contains several extraordinary- exemplars of its powers of action. 
 
 " The unparalleled grandeur of the scenery around [Matlock, renders every at- 
 tempt to dehneate its varied characteristics by words, at least, hopeless, if not abso- 
 lutely impossible. The bold and romantic steeps, skirted by a gorgeous covering of 
 wood, and rising from the margin of the DerAvent, whose waters sometimes glide ma- 
 jestically along, and sometimes flow in a rapid stream over ledges and broken masses of 
 stone ; the frequent changes of scene, occasioned by the winding of the dale, wliich 
 at every step varies the prospect, by introducing new objects ; the huge rocks, in some 
 places bare of vegetation, in others covered with luxuriant foUage, here piled upon 
 each other in immense masses, there displaving their enormous fronts in one unbroken 
 perpendicular mass; and the subhmity and picturesque beauty, exhibited by the 
 manifold combinations of the interesting forms congregated near this enchanting 
 spot, can never be adequately depicted by the powers of language. The creation of 
 the pencil, alone, is commensurate to the excitation in the mind of correspondent 
 images. Imagine yourself on the hill, the river beneath, numberless trees in all the 
 various forms that an obstructing rock or a want of support can occasion, a wliite rock 
 towering above you ; tlie road leading to Cromford takes a sudden turn close to it j a 
 cotton-mill, inth a neat little turret, surrounded by trees, the massy wheel turning 
 slowly, the water foaming from it ; at some distance, Mr. ArkwTight's house, like a 
 vast castle, with its keep. Sec. all embattled ; farther, his mills, Cromford bridge, and 
 the new chapel; behind, a chain of hills partly covered with wood; opposite the 
 house, a huge rock fantastically adorned with shrubs and trees : through this rock the 
 road is carried Arith much labour. Such is the scene on leaving Matlock." 
 
 ^lajor Rook, who contributed a plate of a singular group cf rocks near Matlock 
 Bath, to the Pubhshers of the Gentleman's ^Magazine, in the October number, 1793, 
 page 885, says, " The traveller who wishes to explore this curious country, must 
 quit the trodden path, cUmb the cragged cliff", and penetrate the ilark recess, he will 
 there find ample recompense for his trouble." These rocks, called Dungeon Tors or 
 the Romantic Chffs, are upon the brow of the hill directly behind the Oid Bath, the 
 ground is enclosed with stone walls, which, together with the bushes and brambles 
 that surround the rocks, make the approach rather difficult. This curious group cf 
 rocks evidently appears to have been separated bv some violent convulsion in nature, 
 which has also formed several chasms ; the projection of the sm.all rock over the large 
 one is very remarkable. From this spot you command a very extensive view, prefer- 
 able to most in the neighbourhood of Matlock.
 
 MATLOCK. Ill 
 
 The lead ore so abundant in this county must have held a distinguished character 
 amonj^ the natural products of Britain, in the earliest ages, and was undoubtedly one 
 of the principal objects that induced the commercial people of Tyre aiid Carthage, as 
 well as the travelling merchants who conducted a line of traffic from the confines of 
 Italy and Greece to Belgium, to visit our shores. The rake veins, of which the trea- 
 sures are now only to be obtained with labour, aided by improved machinery, from 
 amid the recluse beds of limestone rock, were then perceptible amid the loose and 
 crumbling schistus, that scarcely covered their wealthy orifices. It was to this state 
 of the lead mines of Derbyshire that Pliny alludes, in the celebrated passage to which 
 our learned Camden refers. " In Britain," says the great Roman naturalist, " in the 
 very upper crust of the ground, lead is dug up in such plenty, that a law was made 
 on purpose to stint them to a set quantity." To what extent the lead ore was sought 
 after by the Britons themselves, or by the people who visited them for the purposes of 
 trade, cannot now be ascertained ; it must suffice us to have incontrovertible proof, 
 that under the government of the Romans, the lead of this county had become a very 
 important article of commerce. Blocks or pigs of lead have been discovered, having 
 Latin inscriptions, and in the neighbourhood of the mines are to be traced the re- 
 mains of Roman stations, houses and burial places. 
 
 A Roman pig of lead, v/eighing 126 pounds, was found on Cromford moor near 
 Matlock, in the year 1777, having the following inscription in raised letters on the 
 top : 
 
 IMP. CAES. HADRIANI. AUG. MET. LVT. 
 
 A second was discovered near Matlock, in 1783. It weighed 81- pounds, and was 
 19 inches long at the top, and 22 at the bottom. Its width at the top was 33y inches, 
 and at the bottom 4^. The inscription appears to contain these letters : 
 
 L. ARVCONI. VERECVND. METAL. LVTVD. 
 
 A third, with the inscription also in raised letters on the top, was found on Mat- 
 lock moor in the year 1787. It weighed 173 pounds, and was 17?^ inches in length. 
 
 in breadth at bottom 20A 
 
 These inscriptions have given rise to various conjectures, and, accordingly, to a 
 great display of erudition ; but if we conceive, the i.vr. and the lvtvd. to be contrac- 
 tions of LuTUDAuuM, the name of a Roman station, next in order, according to Ra- 
 vennas, to Derventio or Little Chester, and which is supposed to be (Chesterfield, 
 much of the difficulty will vanish. The first will then be found to have the name of 
 the emperor Hadrian, connected with the name of the metallic district of which it is 
 probable that Chesterfiehl was then, as ^V^irksworth has subsequently been considered, 
 the regulating town. Hence this inscription would mean no more than that the block 
 of lead upon which it was stamped belonged to the emperor Cicsar Hadrian Augustus, 
 from the metallic district of Lutudarum. — 'The second would be under this interpre- 
 tation stamped with the name of its owner, a proprietor of some mines, perhaps, or a
 
 112 MATLOCK. 
 
 merchant, Lucius Araconus Verucundus, with the addition, as before, of the name of 
 the mining district. The third appears to mean tliat the lead upon which it is found 
 impressed^ is part of the tribute due to Tiberius Claudius, from the mines (sUver or 
 lead) of the British Lutudae or Lutudanuu. — These interpretations are by far the 
 most conformable to custom and common sense. The Rev. Mr. Pegge could not, we 
 think, have considered the subject, when he conjectured the first of these in'scriptions 
 to mean " The sixth legion inscribes this to the memory of the emperor Hadrian." 
 Such a mode of paving honour to the memory of an emperor was never before ima- 
 gined, and we might as justly assert, that the king's mark, impressetl upon goods 
 seized under an exchequer process, has for its object the memory of our gracious 
 monarch. 
 
 But whatever mav be the strict inter^iretation of the inscriptions upon these blocks, 
 thev are, in themselves, indubitable evidence that the mines of Derbyshire were 
 worked bv the Romans, or more probably by the enslaved Britons, already acquaint- 
 ed with the rude processes of that era, under command of their conquerors. The 
 Saxons, who succeeded the Romans in the conquest and dominion of Britain, did not 
 neglect the treasures, so abundant in the centre of their acquisitions ; and by their 
 havinir called an important mine near Castleton, Odin, from the name of one of their 
 divinities, to whom thev may be supposed to have consecrated it, we have a proof, 
 that previous to the introduction of Christianity amongst them, they had directed their 
 attention to the mineral wealth of the heptarchy. The mines in the neighbourhood 
 of Wirksworth were wrought before the year 714 ; at which period that district be- 
 longed to the nunnery at Repton, over which Eadburga, the daughter of Adulph, 
 king of the East Angles, presided as abbess. In that year the abbess sent to Croy- 
 land, in Lincolnshire, for the interment of St. Guthlac, who was originally a monk of 
 Repton, a sarcophagus of lead lined with linen ( plumheuyn lintheiunque ) . This lead 
 was obtained from the possessions of the old Saxon religious estabhshment at Repton, 
 part of which were the mines near Wirksworth. In the year 835, Kenewara, then 
 abbess of the same nunnery, made a grant to Humbert, the alderman, in which she 
 surrenders that estate of mines, called M'ircesworth, on condition that he gives an- 
 nuallv as a rent to archbishop Ceolnoth, lead to the value of three hundred shillings, 
 for the use of Christ's church, Canterbun,-. On the destruction of the reUgious houses 
 by the Danes, in 874, it is probable that the lead mines became the property of the 
 crown. The mines in the Peak and in the wapentake of A\"irksworth, were undoubt- 
 edly regarded as the peculiar domain of the sovereign at a very early period, and as 
 such thev are mentioned in Doomsday Book. 
 
 Mr. Bouthman, a gentleman from Manchester, and Mr. Biscoe, a gentleman from 
 "Wrexham, in Wales, have expended upwards of £10,000. in a mining speculation 
 under the High Tor, at present unsuccessfully. 
 
 The great rent in the strata of Derbyshire, by which so much of the subterranean 
 geography of the county is rendered apparent, first distinctly manifests itself in the 
 neif'hbou'rhood of Matlock, and there some caverns have been discovered within the 
 last thirty or forty vears, and opened for the inspection of the curious, which must 
 not be passed over without notice. ^Ve borrow the following neat and succinct ac- 
 count from the comprehensive Guide- Book of the Rev. R. "\\'ard, who, speaking of 
 these attractions of that admirable place, says, " These consist of three caverns, the 
 Rutland, the Cumberland, and the Fluor, which though similar in some respects, yet 
 cUfFer so much in others, as to induce some persons to visit them all." 
 
 " Facie? non omnibus una These not alike, nor yet unlike we deem, 
 
 Nee diversa tamen, qualem decet esse sororum." But such as lovely sisters might beseem. 
 
 OvkTs Metam. 
 
 " The Rutland cavern, in the Heights of Abraham, is remarkably easy of access : 
 the first part of it is a long level path, formed with great labour by miners in the soUd 
 hmestone, and leading to several very lofty cavities and vaults of great extent, rami- 
 fying, as it were, and spreading in different directions. At the side of one of these 
 an easy ascent, by a great number of steps, conducts the visitor to nimierous other cavi-
 
 MATLOCK. 113 
 
 ties and vaulted passa<^es amidst rocks of the most grotesque forms and craggy ap- 
 pearance, extending far into the inner part of the mountain. I'his cavern contains 
 some springs of clear water, and is adorned with various brilliant crystallizations 
 and different metallic ores, which are here coramodicusly presented to the view in 
 their native state : 
 
 • Here raiiRinfj through her vaulted ways. 
 On Nature's aichyiiiy you gaze, 
 See how slie forms the gem, the ore. 
 And all her magazines explore.' 
 
 " The view from the heights of the romantic dale below, which ajipears very striking 
 at all times, is peculiarly so to the spectator, when, having traversed this extensive 
 cavern, he first emerges from the dark recesses of it. 
 
 "The Cumberland is a single cavern formed by the union of two, which have been 
 visited as objects of curiosity almost fifty years. This is shown by IMr. Peter 
 Smedley, who keeps a spar-shop opposite ^Falker's lodging-house, and is situate at a 
 considerable distance up the hill behind that and the New Bath. It extends to a 
 very great length, and possesses this advantage, that the visitor is not obliged to re- 
 trace ills steps to the part where he entered, but finds an exit at the other end of it. 
 The roofs of the numerous cavities within it a;e of a different kind from those in the 
 Rutland cavern, having less the cippearanc^ of arches ; and the multitude of massy 
 stones, lying within tliem, appear to have fallen from the roofs above, through some 
 violent concussion of the earth, by which they have been disjointed and thrown into 
 horrid confusion. Several parts of this cavern have a very brilliant appearance, and 
 exhibit different substances, which will be inspected by the curious mineralogist with 
 great interest and satisfaction. 
 
 " The Fluor cavern is situate towards the top of the wood behind the Old Bath, 
 and though much less extensive than either of those just mentioned, it will not, on 
 that account, by many persons who are inclined to visit caverns, be thought unde- 
 serving of particular notice. The way up the wood has been improved, and the trou- 
 ble of ascending it is compensated by the view of the scenery it exhibits : the passage 
 into the cavern is rendered commodious, and the souicrruiii. visit easy and agreeable. 
 The different spars in this, as well as in the other caverns, are brilliant and interest- 
 ing ; the strangely grotesque forms of the objects it contains, highly amusing ; and 
 the num.erous Hghts placed in its various recesses, produce a very impressive and 
 pleasing effect." 
 
 The Devonshire cavern, in the Heights of Abraham, named in honour of His Grace 
 the Duke of Devonshire, consists of openings into immense natural cavities, extend- 
 ing in all directions, the sides of which are beautifully adorned with a profusion of 
 minerals, stalactites, and crystallized fluor. The entrance into the cavern is about 
 the centre of the mountain, and after traversing its various windings, secludeil from 
 the light of day, the visitor, instead of being obliged to retrace his steps (which is the 
 case with many of the other caverns in Derbyshire) is conducted out of it through a fine 
 rocky archway at tlie farther extremity of the cavern, and nearly at the summit of the 
 hill, upon a beautiful terrace ; commanding a romantic and interesting view of Mat- 
 lock Bath — the rippling river meandering through the valley beneath, the towering 
 hills clothed with tall forest trees, and the varied beauties of Nature which present 
 themselves from this eminence to the wondering beholder, form at once a striking 
 contrast to the subterranean scenes he has been witnessing, and enables him to con- 
 template their imposing grandeur with two-fold delight. 
 
 The principal oljjects within tlie cavern are named Fluid's Cave, Roger Rain's House, 
 the Roman Bed C/ianihcr, the Pcruviun Bridge, King Ari/mr's Hull anil Shield, the 
 Druid's Altar, ami the Grand Ravtan, Gallcrij, upwards of 200 feet in length, and 
 40 in breadth, the roof of which appears to be formed of one solid mass of stone, and 
 is throughout its whole extent nearly as level as the ceiling of a room ; this extensive 
 opening is brilliantly illuminated. A Bengal light, or crimson fire, exhibited in this 
 part, has an extremely curious effect. A ray of moonlight is very closely imitated 
 
 p
 
 114 ■ MATLOCK. 
 
 here, by means of a ray of day-light from the surface, softened by the Ught in the 
 cavern. 
 
 The road to the cavern is throu::h the Botanic gardens of Mrs. Bown, where will 
 be found a fine collection of above seven hundred species of indigenous rare plants, 
 any of which may be purchased. 
 
 The CrystalUzed grotto and Lead mine under the High Tor, is approached by a 
 newlv erected wooden bridge throv.n across the river Derwent. The interior is adorn- 
 ed with massive crystals of double pointed calcareous spar, intermixed with lead ore, 
 fluor spar, and a variety of other substances which nature has sportively ai-ranged in 
 the most fantastic and interesting groups. The beauty and perfection of the crystal- 
 hzations highly gratify those who inspect them. 
 
 The Speedwell mine is also shown to strangers by the proprietor, Benjamin Frog- 
 gatt. 
 
 The mineral and medicinal waters of Derbyshire are, as might be expected in a 
 country abounding with fossils, remarkably numerous. AU those of a chalybeate and 
 sulphureous natm-e, arise in beds of shale, and probably derive their impregnation from 
 this substance ; the warm springs also are observed to appear near these beds, though 
 they break out in the stratum of limestone almost exclusively. The most celebrated 
 luanii sprino-s are those at Matlcck and Buxton ; they occur hkewise at Stony ^lid- 
 dleton ; and ^liddieton, near "vVirksv/orth, had formerly a spring of this descrip- 
 tion, Avhich was cut off some years since by driving a sough to remove the water 
 from some lead mines in the neighbourhood. Those of Matlock* and Buxton have 
 obtained much celebrity for their medicinal properties, and are annually visited by a 
 considerable influx of companv, who resort to them as well for pleasure as for health. 
 The natural histors- of the Matlock and Buxton waters occupied much of the atten- 
 tion of the lamented Dr. Darwin, whose death has deprived society of one of its most 
 valuable members, and science of her most distinguished son. His principal obser- 
 vations were contained in a letter written to the Rev. I\Ir. Pilkington, and published 
 in the " View of Derbvsliire." The very interesting natm-e of this communication, 
 and the hght it casts upon the origin of warm springs, wherever situate, must be our 
 apology for the insertion of considerable extracts. 
 
 " Several philosophers have supposed that the warm springs of this county acquire 
 their heat from the chemical decomposition of pyrites ; and it was affirmed by the 
 late Mr. Tissington, and has been lately cited in an ingenious work of Mr. Kirwan 
 on Mineralog^•, that the warm water about Matlock owed its heat to the blue marl, 
 which is mixed with pyrites, and is found in thin strata above and below the beds of 
 lava, or toadstone ; but it has since been observed, that, though warm water was 
 found sometimes in these beds of pyrites and marl, yet, that no smeU or taste then 
 attended it, which must have occurred, if the pyrites had been in a state of decompo- 
 sition ; and secondly, that cold water was found in these beds oftener than warm. 
 
 '•' The arguments in favour of another opinion appear to me to be much more con- 
 clusive, viz. i/ud the water of these sjiriiigs is raised in vapour h/ subterraneous fires 
 deep in the earth, and that this vapour is condensed under the surface oj the mountains 
 in the viciniti/ of the sjtrings. 
 
 " I. The heat of these springs has been invariable, perhaps, for many centuries ; 
 certainly, as long as we have had good thermometers ; which shows that the water, 
 which they arise from, is in a boiling state in some part of the earth. For as boiling 
 water acquires a certain degree of heat, viz. 212, the steam which arises from it 
 (where it is not confined) must always be of that degree of heat. Now the internal 
 parts of the earth, a few feet below the surface, being always, both in winter and 
 summer, of forty-eight degrees of heat ; it foUows, that if the steam of water, after 
 
 * The author of England Delineated says, " these wells are mucli frequented, and would be more so, were 
 it not for the stony mountainous road that leads to thero, as well as the want of accommodation on the spot. 
 The traveller to Matlock," he observes, " is obliged to pass over wild barren moors, of many miles in extent, 
 in perpetual danger of slipping into coal or lead pits, or to ride several miles on the edge of a steep rock, which 
 is either smooth or slippery, or covered with loose stones, which endangers his falling into the valley lieneath ; 
 the bottom of which is scarcely to be distinguished by the eye, nor is there any house of entertainment within 
 half a mile of the place." — The roads and accommodations are now excellent.
 
 MATLOCK. 115 
 
 it is condensed^ flows through a given distance of the cold earth, it will become cooled 
 from 212 to some degree of heat above 48, proportional to the distance between the 
 momitain in which it is condensed, and the place of its exit : and thus may, for many 
 ages, preserve an uniformity of the degree of heat, which could not happen, if it was 
 produced by chemical combinations of materials near the surface of the earth. 
 
 " 2. In the very dry summer of 1780, when all the cold springs in this part of the 
 country either totally ceased, or were much diminished, I was well informed on the 
 spot, both at Matlock and Buxton, that the warm springs had suffered no observable 
 decrease of their water. AVlience I conclude, that the sources of these warm springs 
 were at a much greater depth below the surface of the earth than the cold ones ; and 
 that, on that account, the water must first have been raised in the form of steam from 
 those greater depths. Another circumstance shows, that the source of many of these 
 waters is situate beneath the origin of the cold springs ; even after the steam which 
 produces them is condensed into water ; which is, that their heat continues always 
 the same both in winter and summer, in wet seasons and in dry ; evincing, that no 
 cold water from the dews, or springs in consequence of them, is mixed with these 
 sources of warm water, ike. 
 
 " 3. The rocks of limestone in all this part of the country abound Avith perpendicu- 
 lar clefts, in which are found the ores of zinc, lead, and copper ; and it is hence pro- 
 bable, that not only the steam of water at present, which produces these warm springs, 
 but that those metals themselves, and the fluor, or baroselenite, which attends them, 
 have, in forme?- ages, been raised into those perpendicular clefts by the great subter- 
 raneous fires, which raised the continents and islands from the primeval ocean. 
 
 " 4. The existence of central fires in the earth in the earli/ ages of the world, is 
 demonstrated by the elevation of the solid parts of the globe above the ocean, and the 
 shattered condition of its strata, with the immense masses of lava then produced, 
 which go under the names of toadstone, basaltes, moor-stone, porphyry, and granite, 
 and are so well explained in Mr. ^Vhitehurst's and in Dr. Ilutton's Theories of the 
 Earth. The present existence of central tires seems probable from the many volca- 
 noes, which are spiracula, or chiranies, belonging to those great fires ; and it is pro- 
 bable, that by the escape of elastic vapours from these, is owing the small extent of 
 modern earthquakes, compared with those of remote antiquity, the vestiges of which 
 remain all over the globe. Another argument for the present existence of immense 
 subterraneous fires, is, that the great earthquake at Lisbon produced undulations on 
 the lakes of Scotland ; and was felt in the mines of Derbyshire ; (Philos. Transact.) 
 which could not easily happen, but by a percussion on one side of a confined fluid 
 lava, which would be propagated to the other ; as striking the gentlest blow on one 
 side of a bladder distended with water, is felt by the hand placed on the other side : 
 to which may be added, that in some mines the deeper you descend, the wanner you 
 perceive them, &c. 
 
 " 5. Because there are springs of hot water in all countries, where open volcanoes 
 evidently exist: whence from analogy we may conclude, that the hot springs in coun- 
 tries where open volcanoes have existed, but are not now open, are owing to the same 
 cause acting in a less powerful manner. 
 
 " 6. Add to this, that if those waters had been heated by the chemical decomposi- 
 tion of pyrites, some of them at least would probably have retained a strong chalybeate 
 taste, or sulphureous smell ; or that they would all of them have been impregnated 
 with some similar material, which, on the chemical analysis of these waters of Buxton 
 and Matlock, does not appear to be the fact. 
 
 " 7. I come now to another circumstance, which very much corroborates the above 
 theory of the production of these springs from the steam raised from deep subterrane- 
 ous fires, and not from any decomposition of pyrites. The strata in this part of 
 Derbyshire consist of beds of limestone, and of lava (or toadstone) which lie recipro- 
 cally one above the other. Now if we suppose the steam rising from subterraneous 
 fires to be owing partly to water slowly subsiding upon those fires, and to limestone 
 gradually calcined by them, it must happen, that the steam rising through the per-
 
 116 MATLOCK. 
 
 pendicular clefts in the supercumbent rocks^ must be replete with calcaneus gas 
 (fixed air) or with some phlogisticated air.* 
 
 " If this steam, so impregnated, be condensed in limestone strata, the fixed air in 
 this hot steam will super-saturate itself again with calcarious earth.t Now this is 
 what precisely happens to the waters of Matlock, which are replete with calcarious 
 particles, as appears by the copious deposition of tupha, or calcarious incrustations, 
 along the channels in which they flow. For, in general, it happens, that springs of 
 water wear themselves valleys from their sources, as is done by the water at Buxton; 
 but those springs at JMatlock have produced rocks and mountains of a sponge-like 
 calcarious stone between their fountains and the Derwent, with which many of the 
 houses at JMatlock are constructed, and some of the stone fences. 
 
 " In the beginning of October, 1780, I was present, with my friend ]\Ir. Edgeworth, 
 at the opening of two of the springs at Matlock, about two hundred yards above their 
 usual places of appearance. SVe found them both at these new openings about one 
 degree of heat, or somewhat more, warmer than at their places of usual exit. The 
 upper one, which could be best seen, issued from some cracks or fissures in the upper 
 surface of a bed of toadstone, and between it and the blue marl which lies over it j 
 under which niarl it seems to have been condensed, and thence to have supersaturated 
 itself with calcaiious particles. I examined this marl by means of acids, and found 
 it to be calcarious, except some shining bits of whitish pyrites, which had no appear- 
 ance of being in a state of decomposition. 
 
 " On the contrary, the steam which produces the water at Buxton, is probably con- 
 densed in the substance of the toadstone, or lava, and not in a stratum of marl or 
 limestone, like the Matlock water ; and hence the great cUfFerence of their contents. 
 As one edge of these strata of limestone and lava, wherever there are springs, is al- 
 ways elevated higher than the other, it would be easy, by attending to the inchnation 
 of these strata, to discover on which side of the bath is situated the mountain in wliich 
 the steam is condensed, which probably may not be more than a mile or two from 
 the eruption of the springs ; because, on opening the springs at IMatlock at a place 
 about two hundred yards above the wells, the water (though already collected into a 
 kind of vein) was cooled more than a degree; and this coohng must proceed much 
 faster where the water is diffusely and thinly spread between two contiguous strata : 
 and further, as the progress of this water must warm in some degree the surface of 
 the earth, beneath which it passes after its condensation, and particularly at the place 
 of its condensation, it is not improbable but its course might be detected by observa- 
 tions made in rhymy mornings, or when snow has lain long on the gi-ound, by the 
 melting or disappearing of it first in that part ; or, perhaps, by the earlier vegetation 
 of the grass or trees on those parts of the surface. A Mr. Taylor, who once kept this 
 bath, produced early vegetables, by conveying a stream of the warm water under a 
 border of his garden. If this source should ever be discovered by mining, I suppose 
 tile water, by being received nearer the place of its devaporation, would be found of a 
 greater degree of heat, from 82^ its present heat, up to 212, or the heat of boihng 
 water. 
 
 " The contents of the waters of Buxton and Matlock must countenance the theory 
 above dehvered ; for if steam be raised from subterraneous furnaces, where limestone 
 is probably in a state of calcination, much calcarious gas, or fixed air, and some phlo- 
 gisticated air, would arise with the aqueous steam : these are found in the Buxton 
 water, in the loose state of bubbles, according to the analysis of Dr. Pearson ; and in 
 this the Buxton water resembles the waters at Bath, which are said, by Dr. Priestley, 
 
 * " Dr. Priestley, from five ounces of limestone, obtained 1 IfiO ounce-measures of air, nine-tenths of which 
 was fixed air, and the other tenth phlogisticated air. From four ounces of white spar he obtained 830 ounce> 
 measures of air : the first portion of which had but one-fourth of fixed air: which, however, varied in the 
 course of the experiment, being once three-fourths, then one-half, then one-third of fixed air." 
 
 ■f- " It may seem extraordinary that fixed air, or calcarious gas, which is known to precipitate lime from wa- 
 ter, should render limestone more soluble in water. This, however, is evinced by the experiments of Mr. 
 Cavendish, who added to lime-water, which had been reiulcrcd turbid by means of calcarious gas, more of the 
 same gas, which enabled the water to re-dissolve the precipitated liincstoiie. Water, by a large quantity of 
 calcarious gas, will thus, in close vessels, supcr-saturale itself with lime; which will gradually precipitate in 
 the form of lime^iloiie, when exposed tu llie air, by the evaporation of the superduous gas."
 
 MATLOCK. 117 
 
 to possess similar kinds of air ; and as these airs seem to be the principal ingredients 
 of both these waters, there is reason to believe, both from this circumstance, and 
 from their success in relieving similar diseases, that their medicinal powers are very 
 similar, &c. 
 
 " In the Buxton water the fixed air is found in loose bubbles, because it docs not 
 meet with any kind of calcarious earth or limestone, to combine itself with : in the 
 Matlock water the contrary occurs ; it has no loose air-bubbles, because the fixable 
 air is combined with lime, and thus this water is replete with calcarious earth in sub- 
 tile solution ; and in this respect I suppose resembles the Bristol water. 
 
 " By the experiments of Bergman and Scheele, it appears that the stony concre- 
 tions in animal bodies consist of saccharine acid and air, and that this acid has a 
 greater affinity than any other to calcarious earth.* Now as the saccharine acid is 
 perpetually generated in the stomach during the digestion of our aliment, it is proba- 
 ble that the salutary effects of these calcarious waters, such as Matlockt and Bristol, 
 may be owing to their saturating the super-abundancv of this saccharine acid, and 
 that thus they may prevent the tendency which some of our fluid secretions possess, 
 of producing calculous, and perhaps gouty and bilious concretions ; and prevent the 
 increase in size of those already formed : on the same principle they may tend to ren- 
 der purulent matter less acrimonious, as they are supposed to be of advantage in pul- 
 monary and scrophulous ulcers, ike." 
 
 Matlock-Bath is nearly a m.ile and a half from the village ; and though few situa- 
 tions can be more beautiful, it was only occupied by some rude cottages, inhabited by 
 miners, till its warm springs began to attract notice, for their medicinal qualities, 
 about the year 1698. At that period the original bath " was built and paved by the 
 Rev. Mr. Fern, of Matlock, and Mr. Heyward, of Cromford ; and put into the hands 
 of George AV^ragg, who, to confirm his title, took a lease from the several lords of the 
 manor, for ninety-nine years, paying them a fine of £'150. and the yearly rent or ac- 
 knowledgment of sixpence each. He then built a few small rooms adjoining to the 
 bath, which were but a poor accommotlation for strangers. The lease and property 
 of Mr. AFragg were afterwards purchased for about £1000. by Messrs. Smith and 
 Pennel, of Nottingham, who erected two large commodious buildings, with stables, 
 and other conveniencies ; made a coach road along the river side from Cromford, and 
 improved the horse-way from Matlock bridge. 'I'he whole estate afterwards became 
 the property of Mr. Pennel by purchase ; and, en his death, about the year 1733, 
 descended to his daughter, and her husband:" it is now the joint property of several 
 persons. 
 
 The judicious means thus exerted to render the accommodations attractive, and the 
 increasing celebrity of the waters, occasioned a greater influx of visitors; and a 
 second spring having been discovered within the distance of about a quarter of a mile, 
 a new bath was formed, and another lodging-house erected, for the reccjUion of com- 
 pany. At a still later period, a third spring was met with, three or four hundred 
 yards westward of that which was first noticed ; but its temperature being some de- 
 grees lov/er than either of the other springs, it was not brought into use till a level 
 had been made in the hill, and carried beyond the point where its waters had inter- 
 
 « " I cannot leave this account of calcarious or hard waters without adding, tl)at I suppose, from the great 
 altiuity lietween calcarious earth and saccharine acid, may be txplnuicd a circumstance, the theory of which 
 has never been understood, and therefore the fact has generally been doubted ; and that is, that hard waters 
 make stronger beer than soft ones. I appeal to the brewers of lUirton for the fact, who have the soft water of 
 the Trent running on one side of their brewhouses ; and yet prefer universally the hard or calcarious water 
 supplied by their pumps. I suppose there may be some saccharine acid in the malt (which is not all of it 
 equally perfectly niaile into sugar by the vegetable digestive power of the germinating barley) which, by its at- 
 tracting Ihe calcarious earth of hard waters, may produce a kind of mineral sugar, which, hke the true sugar, 
 may lie converlible into spirit : for a similar purpose, I suppose lime is used by the sugar-bakers in rclinuig 
 their sugars, though the theory of its effects is unknown to them." 
 
 t We have been favoured by Vr. Gill)ert with the following additional remarks. The waters of Matlock, 
 like those of Bristol and Kuxton, are of the calcarious cUiss. When taken at the fountain, long experience 
 assigns them highly reslorative, strengthening, and curative powers ; especially in pulmonary cases and nerv- 
 ous disorders. Ancient and modern i)ractice alike direct the use of Ihe hot baihs, as the most powerful agent 
 in the preservation of health, in the cure of rheumatism, and in the greater portion of inflainmatury, acute and 
 chronic disorders. Almost all nations of the remotest antiquity have had their warm baths, 'ifie northern 
 nations from the hot bath plunge into snow, proving the power acquired by warm bathing in resisting cold and 
 the vicissitudes of tcniperaturc.
 
 118 MATLOCK. 
 
 mingled with those of a cold spring. Another hath and lodging-house were then 
 erectetl. These buildings are of stone, and respectively namedj the Old Bath, 
 the New Bath, and the Hotel. The number of persons that may at the same time 
 be accommodated at these, and the private lodging-houses, is upwards of 400 ; and 
 since the taste for contemplating beautiful scenery has been so general, more than 
 this number have been frequently entertained. 
 
 The New Baths, near the Hotel, are commodiously and handsomely fitted up. 
 They belong to Dr. Gilbert, the proprietor of the Rutland cavern. Near to the baths 
 there is a fountain, where the water is drank. 
 
 The Old Bath is kept by ]\Irs. Gumming. The New Bath by Mr. Saxton. These 
 are posting-houses. The Hotel by Mr. flodgkinson. The Temple lodging-house 
 by Mrs. Evans. The board and lodging-house by ]\Ir. "Walker. The Villa by Mr. 
 llawlinson. The Museum Parade lodging-house by Mrs. Smith. The High Tor 
 lodging-house by ^Ir. Robinson. The post-ofEce and lodging-house by Miss Shore. 
 A lodging-house opposite the High Tor is the property of ^Ir. Staveley. There are 
 also several smaller lodging-houses. 
 
 The Royal Museum is the property of ^Irs. ]Mawe, of London. This museum at- 
 tracts ahnost every visitor who enters Matlock ; it contains a great number of curios- 
 ities from various parts of the Gontinent, and an extensive collection of manufactured 
 articles of the beautiful fluors, gypsum, marbles, and other productions of the coun- 
 ty : the superb marble tables, vases, and obeUsks, some black with figures engraved 
 on them, and others formed of a variety of fluors and minerals, are particularly wor- 
 thy of notice. The business here has been very ably conducted by Mr. and jNIrs. 
 Vallance for many years. 
 
 Buxton's museum is opposite the Parade ; here chimney-piece and side-board orna- 
 ments, consisting of vases, tazza, cande'labre, obelisks, &c. formed of the finest spars, 
 stalactite, marble, and alabaster, after the most approved antique and modern de- 
 signs : superb tables, consisting of a great vai-iety of spars inlaid in black marble, 
 timepiece stands, necklaces, and a variety of trinkets, are always on sale. 
 
 The other fluor spar manufacturers and collectors of minerals and fossils are, Mr. 
 Peter Smedley, Mr. Joseph Pearson, ^Ir. Joseph Boden, Mr. James Shore, Mr. 
 James Chadwick, &c. 
 
 The amusements at Matlock are balls, and billiards, sailing on the river Derwent, 
 exploring the various caverns, visiting the museums, the elegant spar shops, the botan- 
 ical and ;Mr. Arku-right's gardens, the latter being open to the public two days in each 
 week, \iz. ^Mondays and Thursdays, collecting rare fossils and botanical plants with 
 which the neighbourhood abounds, taking pleasant rides among the surrounding rich 
 scenery, sketching, fishing, &.c. Sec. 
 
 The manor of A\'illersley belonged to Richard Minors, esq. in the reign of Henry 
 yi. who conveyed it to Sir Roger Leech. In 159.5, Henry Talbot, a younger son of 
 Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury, died seised of the manor. Gertrude, one of his daugh- 
 ters and co-heiresses, married Robert Pierrepont, Earl of Kingston. In consequence 
 of a family settlement, it descended to a younger branch, viz. ^ViUiam Pierrepont, 
 esq. who, dying without issue, bequeathed it to his widow, a co-heiress of Sir Thomas 
 Darcy, hart. This lady settled it upon her nephew. Sir Darcy Dawes, bart. son of 
 Archbishop Dawes. Sir Darcy's daughter having espoused Edwin Lassells, Lord 
 Harewcod, brought the estate into that family. In 1778, Lord Harewood sold it to 
 Mr. Edmund Hodgkinson, who resold it to Thomas Hallet Hodges, esq. Of the latter 
 gentleman the late Sir Richard Arkwright purchased it in 1782. 
 
 WilUrslcij Castle, the elegant seat of Richard Arkwright, esq. stands on the south 
 side of a commanding eminence, which runs from west to east, and terminates the 
 extensive range of rocks that forms the eastern boundary of the Derwent in its course 
 through Matlock dale. Ptound the foot of the hill, the river flows in a grand sweep 
 for some distance to the east, but afterwards resumes its former direction to the south, 
 and pursues its way through a more open country, to its junction with the Trent. 
 Near this point the picturesque features of the valley begin to disappear, and soft land-
 
 ^
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 119 
 
 scape scenery, the village, the chapel, the bridge, and the beautiful meadows are the 
 constituent objects of the prospect. 
 
 Immediately opposite the front of the castle, on the south side of the river, rises an 
 immense perpendicular limestone rock, which forms the western barrier of the dale, 
 through it a passage has been made to admit the entrance of the new road from the 
 south. From this spot the building is seen to great advantage ; its castellated ap- 
 pearance, judicious proportions, exact symmetry, and the surrounding scenery, form 
 a coup d'a'il that is but seldom witnessed. 
 
 The following complimentary lines, to ]\Ir. Thomas, the architect, descriptive of 
 the castle, were written and published in a periodical of the day, during the erection 
 of Willersley castle. 
 
 "These new form'd towers in prospect as I view. 
 
 With mind ititent, their progress I pursue, 
 
 Wliich well our (ix'ii attention may command, 
 
 Displa\ing on each stage a master's hand, 
 
 Dispos'd to captivate the gazer's sight. 
 
 As ancient Strenptli with modern Grace unite; 
 
 Wliere uniformity its charm displays, 
 
 To bend each arch, each swelling column raise ; 
 
 While relative proportion rules the whole. 
 
 Of every [)art the animating soul : 
 
 As the vast pile, still growing on our eyes, 
 
 Shall still, with happy auspices arise. 
 
 Such, Archilecture, are thy traits confest. 
 
 From times remote, in various modes cxprest ; 
 
 That art renown'd, which elder ages taught. 
 
 And Rome succeeding, to perfection brought. 
 
 Ere liurope's modern sons put in their claim. 
 
 In later ages emulous of fame. 
 
 Hail, Art sublime I preserv'd with constant care, 
 
 OH'spring of Symmetry and Order fair, 
 
 O may we see thy votaries increase, 
 
 And mark thy beauties in the days of Peace. 
 
 And thou, whose useful talents here are shown. 
 
 Thy skill by many a pleasing structure known. 
 Well do thy precepts and designs impart 
 The elements of thy beloved Art; 
 Nor thus content, yet emulous, we find 
 Thy fair example leave those rules beliind. 
 Thomas, proceed, thy power's at full display, 
 Wliere genius kindly points the deslin'd way ; 
 Boldly advance ; the path before Ihee lies. 
 By genuine merit to fair fame to rise» 
 While still, thy lix'd attention to engage. 
 For thee fair Science opes her ample page, 
 Form'd, as thou wast, beneath the fostering care 
 Of those whose fame their various works declare; 
 What may'st thou not attempt, as mellowing time 
 Shall raise thy genius and thy powers sublime ? 
 Call forth thy vigour, bid thy views extend, 
 The /«;> and usi-fiil in each work to blend, 
 meanwhile, this varied scene enchants our eyes, 
 Wliere Art and Nature's choicest beauties rise. 
 By taste united, which can best combine 
 Tne fair ideas of each just design. 
 Such as with proper elegance displays 
 The Edifice, that speaks the Artist's praise." 
 
 The castle consists of a body, in the form of an oblong square, having a circular 
 tower rising from the centre of the roof, and a semi-circular tower projecting from 
 the front on each side the entrance, and two wings, with a round tower at each 
 angle : the whole structure is embattled ; and the exterior walls are of white free- 
 stone. The spot on which it stands was originally occupied by a large rock, in the 
 removal of which about £3,000. were expended by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, 
 who purchased the estate of Thomas Ilallett Hodges, esq. in the year 1782. The 
 architect was Mr. ^\^illiam Thomas, of London. This edifice was covered in some- 
 time in the year 1788 ; but before it was inhabited, it was set on fire by a stove that 
 was over-heated, and all that was combustible in it was consumed : this accident oc- 
 curred on the 8th of August, 1791. 
 
 The interior of this mansion is furnished with great taste and neatness : indeed, 
 it cannot be more gi-aphically characterized than in the expressive words of the poet, 
 " siniphw miuulitiis ;" the general arrangement being more for use than ornament. 
 
 The Entrance hall is 20 feet square. 
 
 The Dining-room,, on the right of the hall, is 30 feet by 20 feet. The walls of 
 this room are adorned with a very characteristic and striking whole length portrait 
 of the late eminent mechanic. Sir Richard Arkwright, by A\'right, of Derby. He is 
 represented sitting in his study, with one hand resting on a table, whereon is judi- 
 ciously placed a set of rollers for spinning cotton, in allusion to the most essential 
 part of his wonderful machinery. AV'hole length portraits of the present Mr. Ark- 
 wright, and the late Mrs. Arkwright. The sublime view of Ulxwatcr Lake, which 
 is considered to be AV^right's master-])iece, and perhaps equals the greatest effort of 
 art in landscape painting that this country has ever produced. This picture was j)ur- 
 chased by Mr. Arkwright for three hundred guineas. The smaller pieces by the 
 same ingenious artist, are the Boy blowing up the Bladder and tlie Girl playing witli 
 a Bladder, and two Moonlight pieces. 
 
 The Drawing--nHim, on the right of the entrance hall, is also 30 feet by 20 feet. 
 In this room is a beautiful Mosaic stand, purchasetl on the Continent, composed of
 
 120 MATLOCK. 
 
 fifty-seven specimens of the most rare foreign marbles, on a rich gilt frame ; a fine 
 portrait of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I. by Vandyke. This rare and splendid 
 picture, as also several others, was purchased with the Hampton court estate. Two 
 large portraits of some of Mr. Ark^vright's children. 
 
 The Breakfast-room is 34 feet by 17 feet ; adjoining which is a Dressing-room 
 and the Butler's Pantry to the right, and Parlour to the left. 
 
 The Vestibule is 30 feet by lo feet: a Lobby on each side, communicating •vvith 
 the Steward's room. Laundry, and AV^ash-house to the right ; Housekeeper's room. 
 Kitchen, 27 feet by 18 feet, Scullery, Pantry, &c. to the left. 
 
 In the Sitting-room are the family portraits painted by Mr. Barber, of Derby, which 
 do great credit to the artist : these consist of twenty-one portraits, viz. the present 
 Mr. Arkwright, and the late Mrs. Arkwright ; Mr. and Mrs. Hurt, of ^Vi^ksworth ; 
 ^Ir. Arkwright, jun. M. P. and his late wife ; Mr. and ^Irs. Robert Arkwright; Mr. 
 and Mrs. Peter Arkwright ; Mr. and ]Mrs. Charles Arkwright ; Rev. Joseph and 
 Mrs. Arkwright ; Mr. John Arkwright ; Mr. and ]\Irs. Hurt, of Alderwasley ; Mr. 
 Francis Hurt, jun. of Alderwasley ; Mr. and ^Irs. "Wigram, and Mr. Simpson. 
 
 The grounds of ^^'illersley possess great variety and beauty. Between the castle and 
 the Derwent is a verdant lawn, which slopes somewhat precipitously from the house, 
 but afterwards inclines more gently to the river. The east end of the lawn extends 
 to Cromford bridge, which stands about a quarter of a mile from the castle, near the 
 entrance to the grounds, which open by a small, but very neat lodge. The summit 
 of Cromford rock, which has been noticed as rising chrectly in front of ^Villersley, is 
 beautifully fringed with trees and underwood ; and though towering to a considerable 
 height, it does not terminate the prospect from the castle, which being elevated in 
 situation almost as much as the top of the rock, commands a view of the hill that rises 
 beyond it, called Barrel Edge or Cromford i\Ioor, on which is black game, to 
 a great height above the tillage of Cromford. Near the summit of the latter emi- 
 nence are several rude masses of gritstone, Avhich are piled upon each other in a very 
 singular manner, called the Black rocks ; under these the new rail-road is carried. 
 The adjacent parts being formerly moorish, and having a naked, uncheerful appear- 
 ance, have been planted with a great number of trees, which, when arrived at matu- 
 rity, will greatly improve this portion of the scenery. Towards the west the prospect 
 includes the river, an eminence beautified with trees and copses, and a sharp indent- 
 ed ridge of rocks ; with here and there a cottage perched on the summit of a cUff, 
 half hidden in a deep recess, or emerging from a thicket. 
 
 The hill behind the castle rises to a considerable height, and is covered with wood 
 to its smnmit, as is also that portion of it which extends eastwardly. The coach- 
 house, stables, bath, &c. which stand near the mansion on this side, though in a 
 somewhat more elevated situation, aie almost concealed by trees. In the midst of 
 the wood are several romantic rocks, round which, and on the accHvity of the hill, 
 the principal walk winds in a circuit of nearly a mile. The walk leading from the 
 castle on tlie west gradually turns to the north, taking a direction parallel to the course 
 of the river, and passes under some perpencUcular rocks, though yet elevated to a great 
 height above the stream. The rocks are in some parts bare of vegetation, but are oc- 
 casionally fringed to their tops with trees, particularly the yew and ash, the roots of 
 Avhich insinuate themselves into the clefts and fissures in a singidar manner. Ad- 
 vancing up the walk, towards the point called ^\'ild Cat Tor, the eye is delighted by 
 one of the finest scenes that nature ever produced. It consists of the long rampart of 
 rocks opposite ^Matlock ; the wood that clothes the declivity from their bases to the 
 river ; and the tall trees on the opposite side, that stretch their branches down to the 
 water, which appears dark, gloomy, and ahnost motionless, till it reaches a weir, down 
 which it rushes in an impetuous torrent, ahnost immediately under the feet of the 
 spectator, by whom it cannot be contemplated without some degree of terror as well 
 as admiration. The Baths, the Heights of Abraham, the body of !Masson hiU, and 
 the summit of the High Tor, are also seen from this part of the grounds ; through 
 which various other walks extend in difi^erent directions, and lead to a diversity of 
 scenery, that can hardly be paralleled within a similar extent in any part of the
 
 MATLOCK. 121 
 
 country. The green-houses, gardens, anil liot-houscs, arc all worthy of notice : the 
 latter are plentifully stocked with ananas, and a great variety of excellent ]nnes and 
 vines. Mr. Arkwright has received five medals from the Society of Arts for produ- 
 cing fine grapes in the winter season. The walks were laid out under the direction 
 of Mr. AV'ebb, and are kejit with the greatest neatness. The gardens and pleasure 
 grounds extend over about 8 acres. The number of trees planted by Mr. Arkwriglit, 
 on his estate, averaged, for seven years together, 50,000 annually. 
 
 The wealthy and distinguished family of Arkwright have their honours of lineage 
 in the prosperity of that important branch of manufacture which their immediate an- 
 cestor established, and caused it to become one of the great sources of national riches. 
 Sir Richard Arkwright laid the foundation of his family in the public good he effect- 
 ed. He invented, and created the power and o])ulence he enjoyed and bequeathed to 
 his posterity. This gentleman, by his extraordinary skill in mechanics, applied to 
 the improvement of spinning cotton, rendered an important service to his country, 
 and raised himself from humble origin to the possession of a princely fortune. He 
 first established his cotton works at Cromford, in 1 770 (so rapid has been the increase 
 in this branch of trade since that period, that the returns in this article is now estima- 
 ted to be £60,000,000. annually.) In 1788, he was high sheriff for the county, when 
 he gave his javelin men, besides complete suits of excellent clothing, new saddles and 
 bridles. In the same year he received the honour of knighthood on presenting an 
 address from the County to his Majesty, on his providential escape from the attempt 
 on his life by Margaret Nicholson. In the forthcoming History of the ('ounty will 
 be given the life of this eminent and meritorious man : it will suffice here to say 
 that he died in 1792, in the sixtieth year of his age, lord of the manor of Cromford, 
 and founder of the church at that place. 
 
 Susannah, the only surviving daughter of Sir Richard Arkwright, by his second 
 wife, marrietl Charles Hurt, of Wirksworth, esq. 
 
 Ilis only son, Richard Arkwright, of Willersley castle, esq. is living, highly es- 
 teemed for his munificence, and is happy in a numerous progeny of sons and daugh- 
 ters, grandchildren, and great grandchildren. Mr. Arkwright is lessee under the 
 crown of the manors of ^V^irksworth and Kirk Ircton, and of the mineral duties of the 
 wapentake of Wirksworth. He is proprietor of the manors of C'romford, Sutton, I )uck- 
 manton, and Temple Normanton in this county; Hampton Court, in the county of 
 Hereford, and has large landed estates elsewhere. As a landlord, he is universally 
 respected by his numerous tenantry, for his benevolence. He served the office of high 
 sheriff in 1801, and is a Justice of the Peace for the county. To him the proprie- 
 tor and author of this AFork is indebted for the accompanying view of Willersley 
 castle. 
 
 Richard Arkwright, jun. esq. is lord of the manor of Normanton Turville, in the 
 county of Leicester, a Justice of the Peace fdr the county of Derby, and a Member of 
 Parliament. He stood a strongly contested election for the town of Nottingham in 
 1812, when John Smith, esq. and Lord Ranclifte were returned : this election contest 
 is said to have cost Mr. Arkwright £20,000. 
 
 Robert Arkwright, of Stoke hall, esq. is a Justice of the Peace for the county of 
 Derby, and who, with his brother Peter, of Rock house, esq. employ the extensive 
 cotton mills, erected at Cromford and Masson, by their grandfather, and the large 
 mills at Mellor. 
 
 Peter Arkwright, esq. has had a numerous issue by his amiable lady, viz. eleven 
 sons and five daughters, of whom eight sons and five daughters ai"e now living. 
 
 John Arkwright, esq. has resided many years at the mansion on the Hampton 
 Court estate. 
 
 Charles Ark\vright, of Dunstall lodge, in the county of Stafford, esq. is an emi- 
 nent agriculturist, and has a share in the extensive banking establishment at Ashbourn 
 and Wirksworth. 
 
 The Rev. Joseph Arkwright resides at Mark hall, Essex. 
 
 The distinguished marriages of the family of Mr. Arkwright are set forth in the 
 following Pedigree.
 
 122 
 
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 MATLOCK. 123 
 
 The Coumbs and the Boughwood, a considerable estate in the south-east of the 
 parish, passed by an heiress of the Wakebridge family into that of Pole. In 1721, 
 on the death of John Pole, esq. it devolved to his great nephew, Garalt Morphy ; 
 whose brother sold the whole estate to the late Peter Nightingale, esq. who bequeath- 
 ed it to his great nephew, ^V^illiam Edward Shore, esq. who has taken the name of 
 Nightingale, and is the present j)roprietor. 
 
 Riber Hall, in this parish, was for many generations the property and residence of 
 the family of Wolley. The sisters and co-heirs of Anthony W^olley, who died a 
 bachelor in 1668, sold the hall and estate to Thomas Stathani, after being in the pos- 
 session of this family about thirteen years, it passed to the Rev. John Chappell, 
 whose co-heiresses sold it about 172-1 ; one moiety passed by sale to Wall, and is now 
 the property of three persons of that name ; the other moiety, after passing through 
 several hands is now the property of Joseph Greatorex. 
 
 The old mansion at Allen-hill was long the residence of another branch of the 
 Wolley family, and was the property of the late Adam Wolley, esq. Adam ^V^olley, 
 of this branch, was born in the last year of the reign of Queen Mary, 1558, married 
 to his wife Grace in 1581, and died in 1657, in the hundredth year of his age; he 
 lived 76 years in wedlock ; his wife survived hira 12 years, and died in 1669, in the 
 110th year of her age. A younger branch of the ^V^olleys, of Allen-hill (some time 
 extinct) was, for several generations, of Marston on Dove. ^Ir. William \Folley, 
 who wrote a Manuscript History of Derbyshire, about the year 1712, was of this 
 branch. 
 
 The respectable family of Wolley is of considerable antiquity in Derbyshire ; the 
 name occurs among those of the gentry returned by the commissioners in the reign of 
 Henry VI. Two branches of this family were for many generations settled at Riber 
 and Allen-hill, in this parish. The Riber branch became extinct by the death of 
 Anthony Wolley, esq. in 1668. The Allen-hill branch became extinct in the male 
 line on the death of Adam ^\'olley, esq. late of Matlock Bath, in 1827. This gentle- 
 man was a celebrated antiquary, and an eminent lawyer ; during his practice he was 
 frequently employed in tithe causes, in which he was very successful. He bequeathed 
 his valuable manuscripts, chiefly relating to this county, to the British Museum. He 
 left issue two daughters, Mary, the eldest, married the Rev. John Hurt, who, accord- 
 ing to the testamentary injunction of his father in law, has assumed the name and 
 arms of Wolley ; Anne, the youngest daughter, married Charles Clarke, esq. a Justice 
 of the Peace for the County of Derby. 
 
 ARMS. Sahic, a chevron vaire. Or and Gules, between three maidens' heads 
 
 couped. Proper, crined of the second. 
 CREST. A Man's head (side face, with a beard) issuing from a wreath, 
 Proper. 
 
 The author cannot without ingratitude omit to acknowledge his obligation to Mr. 
 Nuttall, the eminent land surveyor, who has been employed as a surveyor and com- 
 missioner in the greater portion of the enclosures that have taken place in this county 
 during more than half a century. This intelligent gentleman, the patriarch of Mat- 
 lock, is, we believe, in the 86th year of his age, and still retains all his faculties ; 
 though it is evident the destroyer Time has made some inroads on his constitution 
 during the last few years. Few men, however, have passed a more active, upright 
 and useful life. 
 
 We cannot conclude the History of Matlock widiout noticing a native artist, who 
 has already arrived to considerable eminence, and bids fair to be unrivalled in her 
 profession. Miss Rawlinson, in the summer of 1 829, accompanied her father on a 
 tour through Italy, for improvement; while amidst that beautiful scenery she painted 
 a landscape, and presented it to the Royal Academy of Artists, at St. Lucca. The 
 members of that honourable body were so struck with the superiority of the picture, 
 that the president himself nominated the fair Artist as worthy to become a member of 
 their Society, which was seconded and carried by acclamation. This honour was 
 communicated by a very complimentary letter from the president, accompanied with 
 the diploma of the Society, as a testimony of her talent.
 
 12J. 
 
 MATLOCK. 
 
 Phoebe Bovm has for many years attracted the attention of the visitors at Matlock, 
 in consequence of her singular costume and general habits. She frequently wears a 
 man's hat, a green cloth jacket, and a wooUen petticoat. This extraordinary cha- 
 racter prides herself in doing those things which are contrary and revolting to the 
 female sex, some years ago she displayed feats of horsemanshij^ by breaking in young 
 horses ; she now performs on the flute and violoncello. A very striking likeness of 
 her was taken by Mr. Oakley, of Derby, last year. 
 
 Tlie inhabitants of IVlatlock and ^latlock Bath are most of them freeholders or 
 copyholders. Tlie chief residences, besides the lodging-houses, are those of Charles 
 Clarke, esq. Rev. T»Ir. Wilson, Mr. Rawlinson, Dr. Gilbert, Rev. Richard Ward, 
 Colonel Payne, and Mr. Chenery, surgeont The latter gentleman has displayed 
 great taste in building two beautiful cottages in ]\Iatlock Vale, wliich has induced 
 others to follow liis example. The accompanying engraving is a view of one of them. 
 
 ClifFe house, the residence of Mrs. Leacroft, is romantically situate en the oppo- 
 site hill to the High Tor. The house, occupied by the Misses Saxton who keep a 
 boarding school, at Matlock Bridge, and that of Mr. George Nuttall, at Matlock, are 
 delightfully situate. The Lunis is the property of Mr. Garton. 
 
 The roads are excellent, and tlie l)eautiful scenery along the new line which follows 
 the course of the Derwent, the ^lVye, tlie (ioyte, and the Mersey, from Derby to 
 Manchester, induce travellers to give preference to the coaches esta])lished on this 
 line. The Bruce and the Pevercl from London and Manchester, and the Lord Nel- 
 son from Nottingham to Manchestei", are well conducted coaches, and pass ilaily.
 
 125 
 
 CROMFORD. 
 
 CROMFORD, a small market-town, a township, constablcry and chapelry, in the 
 CruinforUe, parish and hundred of AVlrkswortli, is Ki ni. N. from Derby, H m. 
 N. from Belper, liim. N. from AFirksworth, 9 m. W. from Alfreton, 10 m. S. from 
 Bakewell, 1 m. S. of Matlock Bath, and 1 t2m. N. N. W. from London. 
 
 The principal part of the town, and the extensive cotton-mills belonging to Messrs. 
 R. and P. Arkwright, are situate in a deep valley on the south bank of the Derwent, 
 enclosed by lofty limestone rocks to the north, south and west, except one street, which 
 runs up the southern hill; to the east, an open valley, of some extent, is clothed with 
 the richest herbage. Through this vaUey the river Derwent flows and the Cromford 
 canal is carried. The new line of road from Derby, through Belper, Cromford, Mat- 
 lock and Bakewell, to Buxton and Manchester, is of great advantage to the town. 
 The new rail-road, which joins the Cromford canal about one mile and a half south 
 of the town, is carried through the north-west part of the AVirksworth hundred, run- 
 ning past the west portion of the High Peak hundred, over a mountainous country, 
 to AVhaley-bridge, where it joins the Peak Forest canal. The building of numerous 
 bridges, the forming of inclined planes, erecting steam-engines, and cutting through 
 immense rocks, have been attended with a serious expense ; the whole estimated cost, 
 agreeable to the first calculation, being i.'l 63,000. which sum it will i)robably exceed 
 before the whole line is opened. 'Ihe houses and mills are chiefly built of excellent 
 gritstone, procured in the township, and chiefly belong to Richard Arkwright, esq. 
 The town is eminently distinguished by the founder, Sir Richard Arkwright; that 
 most ingenious mechanic having established the first cotton-mill, in 1771, erected in 
 the county, and the first upon so large a scale in England. His astonishing and 
 wonderful penetration may be discovered in the very choice of a situation so suitable 
 to carry on his extensive plans and operations, which laid the foundation of that im- 
 mense wealth now enjoyed by his family. The mills are supplied from a never-fail- 
 ing spring of warm water, which also proves to be of great advantage to the canal in 
 severe seasons, as it rarely freezes up, in consequence of a portion of the water from 
 this spring flowing into it. These mills, and those of ,Masson, erected a little higher 
 up the river Derwent, belong to and are worked by the grandsons of the eminent 
 founder, who employ nearly 800 hands. The valuable lead-mines, the manufac- 
 ture of red lead, grinding and preparing calaminaris, the wharfs, the canal, and the 
 rail-road, together with the extensive smelting-mills of the ]\Iessrs. Alsop, the hat- 
 manufactory and worsted-mills at Lea, which are in tlie immediate neighbourhood, 
 not only give employment to a numerous and increasing population, but render the 
 town of great importance in a mercantile view. 
 
 Li 1821, the township contained 232 houses, 271 families, and 1242 inhabitants, 
 now increased to about 1 GOO. Of tiie families, 4 were employed in agriculture, 
 262 in trade or handicraft, and 5 variously. 
 
 In 1790, Sir Richard Arkwriglit obtained the grant of a market, which is now held 
 on Saturday. The fairs are held on the 1st of May and the 1st of October. 
 
 The extent of the township is 1318a. Or. 16 ji. of limestone and gritstone land, 
 chiefly belonging to Richard Arkwright, esq. who has consitlerably improved and 
 beautified the estate by extensive plantations, which add much to the surrounding 
 scenery. The land is watered by the Derwent, Cromford Mour-sough and Boiisal- 
 brook ; it is much divided ; every person employed at the mills, capable of purchasing 
 a cow, has a httle plot of land allotted to him sufficient to maintain it. The average 
 rental may be stated at 20,y. per acre. The estimated annual value of all the build- 
 ings and land is £3596. \[is. lOd. The average of seven years' poor-rates is X297.
 
 126 CROMFORU. 
 
 125. County-rates, £54. 15^. 6d. and church-rates, £14. 155.9^. per annum. The 
 pauper cliildren are chiefly sent to the cotton-mills. There are large Friendly So- 
 cieties;* Sunday-schools at the chmxh and at the Methodist chapel ; an excellent 
 inn and four public-houses ; a water corn-mill ; abridge, repaired at the expense of the 
 county, and a handsome free day-school, built and supported by Richard Arkwright, 
 esq. for boys and girls. Alms-houses for six poor widows, &c. in the township. 
 
 The large handsome inn, erected in the market-place, in 1778, is kept by Mrs. 
 Higgott. Here the London, INIanchester, and Nottingham coaches change horses. 
 
 In Cromfhrde, there were, at the time that Doomsday-book was compiled, two caru- 
 cates of land to he taxed, and it then belonged to the ki7ig. 
 
 The manor of Cromford, at the Conquest, belonged to the king. In 1350, Sir 
 Hugh Meynell, of ]\IeyneU Langley, had a grant of free warren in his lands at Crom- 
 ford, which he held under the l)uke of Lancaster. These lands, which are supposed 
 to have constituted what is now the manor of Cromford, were afterwards in the family 
 of Leche, from whom they passed by sale to the Agards. Thomas Agard died seised 
 of it in 1548. From the Agards it passed by sale to Sir William Cavendish. Henry 
 Talbot, esq. of Ronalton, co. Notts, esq. third son of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, 
 died seised of the manor of Cromford in 1596. From Mary, lady Armyne, his 
 daughter and co-heiress, it passed to Evelyn, Duke of Kingston, descended from her 
 sister Gertrude. The Duke sold it, in 1716, to William Soresby, gent. William 
 Soresby, the grandson, dying unmarried, his two sisters became his co-heiresses: 
 Mary, married AFiUiam jNIilnes, esq. and Helen, the Rev. Thomas Munro. Mr. 
 Milnes purchased Munro's moiety : and in 1776, sold the whole to Peter Nightingale, 
 esq. of Lea: of whom it was purchased, in 1789, by Sir Richard Arkwright, father 
 of Richard Arkwright, esq. the present proprietor. 
 
 The church, a plain building of hewn stone, erected on a piece of ground called 
 the green, was begun by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, and completed by the present 
 Richard Arkwright, esq. This chapel was opened for divine service, 4th of June, 
 1797, consecrated 20th of September in the same year, and endowed by Mr. Ark- 
 wright with £50. per annum. It has been since augmented by a further sum of 
 £200. from Mr. Arkwright, £200. from Queen Anne's bounty, a Parliamentary grant 
 of £800. and in 1826, another of £200. The patronage is vested in Mr. ArkwTight 
 and his heirs. The Rev. Richard Ward, of Matlock bath, is the present incumbent. 
 The chvu-ch is fitted up with an organ, a handsome marble font and two small gal- 
 leries. 
 
 There were formerly an ancient chapel at Cromford, wliich has been demolished 
 many years. 
 
 Monumental Inscriptions in the Church. 
 
 On the south side of thecommunion table is a beau- aged 40 years. " Blessed are the pure in heart, for 
 
 tiful white marble monument by Chantry. they shall see God." Also in memory of their chil- 
 
 Sacred to the memory of Martha Maria, the bclov- dren, Richard Arkwright. who died November 19, 
 
 ed and affectionate wife of Kichard Arkwright, jun. IHIO, aged 5 weeks; llichard Arkwright, who died 
 
 esq. and daughter of the Rev. William Bertsford. of February 18, 1815, aged G weeks: and Agnes Maria 
 
 Ashbourn, who died on the liith day of March, 1820, Arkwright, who died March 16, 1815, aged 4 years. 
 
 Charities. 
 
 LADY ARMYNE'S ALMSHOUSES.— Dame Mary Armyne, by a codicil to 
 her will, bearing date 14th August, 1662, gave to the rector or parson of Matlock, 
 county of Derby, for the time being, and to three others, a yearly rent charge of £16. 
 \Qs. out of her manor lands and tenements in Cromford, to be paid quarterly by 40*. 
 a year, to six poor widowers or widows past their labour by age or irapotency, and 15*. 
 a year each for a gown at Cliristmas. There are six ahnshouses here, in which these 
 
 • At Cromford is a society of rather a singular kind, instituted by the owners of cows, to insure against loss 
 attending that kind of property. The cows belonging to the members are valued twice a year, and each person 
 pays monthly, at the rate of one penny per pound, in inoportion to the value of his stock. Whenever the fund 
 of the society amounts to £10. the payments are discontinued, till it is reduced below that sum ; and when any 
 member's cow dies, ho is indemnified to the full extent of its worth.
 
 CKOMFORD. 
 
 127 
 
 widows (who are appointed by the overseers) reside. It is not known by whom they 
 were built. Mr. Arkwright, the owner of the manor and estate, repairs them, having 
 been purchased subject thereto, and pays the iOs. a year to each, and 6s. Hd. for a 
 gown, making the total rent charge of only £\i. a year. The other £2. lOs. cannot 
 be proved to have ever been paid, and is thought to have been deducted for land tax. 
 Near the upper end of the Dale is a spacious building, erected for the manufacture 
 of cotton by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, and now belonging to his son, who re- 
 sides in the beautiful demesne at \V^illersley. This miU is replete with the improved 
 machinery employed in making cotton thread, " whose operations have been so ele- 
 gantly described by Dr. Darwin, in a work which discovers the art, hitherto unknown, 
 of clothing in poetical language, and decorating with beautiful imagery, the unpoeti- 
 cal operations of mechanical processes, and the dry detail of manufactures :" 
 
 Where Derwent guides his dusky floods. 
 Through vaulted mountains, aiul a night of woods. 
 The nymph Gossypia treads the velvet sod, 
 And warms with rosy smiles the watery god ; 
 His ponderous oars to slender spindles turns. 
 And pours o'er massy wheels his foaming urns; 
 With playful charms her hoary lover wins. 
 And wheels his trident, while the Monarch spins. 
 First, with nice eye emerging Naiads cull 
 From leathery pods the vegetable wool ; 
 
 With wiry teeth revolving cards release 
 The tangled knots, and smooth the ravell'd fleece; 
 Next moves the iron hand with fingers fine, 
 Combs the wide card, and forms th' eternal line; 
 Slow with soft lips the whirling can acijuires 
 The tender skeins, and wraps in rising spires ; 
 With quicken'd pace successive rollers move. 
 And these retain, and those extend, the rove. 
 Then fly the spokes, the rapid axles glow ; 
 While slowly circumvolves the lab'ring wheel below. 
 Botanic Garden. 
 
 The machinery by which the cotton is manufactured, is so complicated in its struc- 
 ture, that a clear conception of its powers, and mode of operation, can only be obtain- 
 ed from a minute inspection of all its parts, both in a state of rest, and in motion. 
 The process by which the raw cotton is prepared for use, will, however, convey some 
 idea of the ingenious mechanical contrivances that are employed to faciUtate the pro- 
 duction of the thread. 
 
 When the cotton is sufficiently picked and cleaned (an operation that furnishes em- 
 ployment to a great number of women) it is carefully spread upon a cloth, iu which 
 it is afterwards roUed up in order to be carded. To the carding machine belong two 
 cylinders of different diameters ; the larger of which is covered with cards of fine 
 wire ; and over, and in contact with it, are fixed a number of stationary cards, that, 
 in conjunction with the revolving cylinders, perform the operation of carding. The 
 smaller cylinder is encompassed by fillet cards, fixed in a spiral form ; and is also 
 provided with an ingenious piece of machinery, called a crank. The spiral roll of 
 cloth before mentioned being applied to the machine, is made to unroll very slowly, 
 by means of rollers, so that it may continually feed the larger cyhnder with its con- 
 tents : when carded, the cotton passes from this to the smaller cylinder, which re- 
 volves in contact with the other, and is thence stripped off by the motion of the crank • 
 not in short lengths, but in continuation ; and having the appearance of a very thin 
 fleece, which, if not intended to pass a second time through the carding machine, is 
 immediately contracted, by passing betwixt a pair of rollers, into what is called a row 
 or length. 
 
 The next part of the process is that of sizing. The machine by wliich this is per- 
 formed has two pairs of rollers, that are placed at a proper distance from each other, 
 and revolve with different velocities, arising either from the variation of size in the 
 pairs of rollers, from their performing a different number of revolutions in the same 
 space of time, or from both these causes united. AMien the lengths of cotton are 
 brought from the carding machine, several of them together are api)lied to the rollers 
 now mentioned; and the effect produced, is not only that the lengths, thus applied in 
 conjunction, coalesce, and come out single, but also that the fibres of the cotton are 
 drawn out longitudinally, by the different velocities and pressure of the rollers : hence 
 the cotton is now termed a drawi/ii^: This process is several times repeated, and 
 several drawings are each time united, by passing together betwixt the rollers ; the 
 number introduced being so varied, that the last drawing may be of a size proportion- 
 ed to the fineness of the thread into which it is intended to be spun.
 
 128 CROMFORD. 
 
 The cotton is now in a fit state for roving. This operation is performed by pass- 
 ino- the last mentioned drau-ing between two pairs of rollers, which revolve with dif- 
 ferent velocities, as in the former machine. It is then received into a round conical 
 can, revohing with considerable swiftness. This gives ihe drawing a slight twisting, 
 and prepares it for winding, which is done by hand, upon large bobbins, by the 
 smaller children. M'hen in this state, the cotton is appUed to the spinning machine. 
 Here it is passed between pairs of rollers, which revolving with various degrees of 
 velocity, draw it out, and reduce it to a proper degree of tenuity : at the same time, 
 it is sufficiently twisted by the revolnng of spindles upon which bobbins are placed ; 
 and the yarn thus twisted is caused to wind on the bobbins, by the friction of their 
 ends upon laths placed horizontally. These laths have another very essential office to 
 perform, which is that of raising and falHiig the bobbins, so that the yarn may be 
 spread over their whole length ; otherwise the thread would require to be moved very 
 frequently, as in the case of the common spinning wheel. AV^hen thus wound upon 
 the bobbins, the cotton is regarded as ready for use.* 
 
 The Rock House, the seat of Peter Arkwright, esq. is built on a high limestone 
 rock, overlooking a beautiful part of the Derwent vale. 
 
 Mr. Arkwright is now building a school-room, 60 feet by 20 feet, and one story 
 liich, to be divided in the centre, one room to be for boys, the other for girls. 
 
 At Cromford, some years ago, was cUscovered a number of Roman coins, now in 
 the possession of Charles Hurt, jun. of Wirksworth, esq. 
 
 Xear the road leading from Cromford to "Wirksworth, is a mine called Godbehere's 
 Founder, in wliich the following remarkable event occurred at the commencement of 
 the year 1797. Two miners, named Job Boden and Anthony Pearson, went into 
 the mine on the morning of the thirteenth of January, and while they were at work, 
 Pearson at the depth of forty-four yards, and Boden at the depth of twenty, the earth 
 above them, together with a quantity of water, suddenly rushed in, and filled the mine 
 to the depth of about fifty-four yards. The other miners immediately began to draw 
 out the rubbish in search of their lost companions, and on the third day after, Pear- 
 
 * To render this statement of the various processes of the cotton manufacture more intelligible to those who 
 have no previous knowledge of the business, we shall insert an extract from the Life of Sir Richard Arkwright 
 (written, we believe, by Mr. Nicholson) as published in Dr. Aikin's Biographical Dictionary. 
 
 "The card is a kind of brush made with wires insteadof hair : the wires not being perjiendicular to the plane, 
 but all inclined one way in a certain angle. From this description, such as are totally unacquainted with the 
 subject, may conceive that cotton wool, being stuck upon one of those cards, or brushes, may be scraped with 
 another card in that direction, that the inclinatiim of the wires may tend to throw the whole inwards, rather 
 than suffer it to come out. The consequence of the repeated strokes of the empty card against the full one, 
 must be a distribution of the whole more evenly on the surface ; and if one card be then drawn in the opposite 
 direction across the other, it will, by virtue of the inclination of its wires, take the whole of the wool out of 
 that card whose inclination is the contrary way. 
 
 " Spinning is of two kinds : in the one process, the carded wool is suddenly drawn out during the rapid rota- 
 tion of a spindle, and forms a loose yarn; in the other, the material is spun by a well-known small engine, or 
 wheel, which requires the spinner to' draw the material out between the finger and thumb of each hand. If »e 
 suppose the machine itself to be left at liberty, and turned without the assistance of the spinner, the twisted 
 thread, being drawn inwards by the bobbin, would naturally gather more of the material, and form an irregular 
 thread, thicker and thicker, tili at length the difficulty of drawing out so large a portion of the material as had 
 acquired the twist, would become greater than that of snapping the thread, which would accordingly break. It 
 is the business of the spinner to prevent this, by holding the material between the fin^jer and the thumb, that 
 the intermediate part may be drawn out to the requisite degree of fineness previous to the twist, and separating 
 the hands during the act of pinching. 
 
 " The objects of Mr. Arkwright's improvements were carding and spinning. To effect these by machinery, 
 it was required that the usual manccuvre of the carder should be performed with square cards : or that cylin- 
 ders, covered with the kind of metallic brushwork before described, should be made to revolve in contact with 
 each other, either to card, or to strip, accordingly as their respective velocities, directions, and inclinations of 
 their wires, might be adjusted: and with regard to spinning, it would become an indispensable condition, not 
 onlv that the raw material should be very nicely prepared, in order that it might require none of that intellec- 
 tual skill which is capable of separating the knotty or imperfect parts as they offer themselves, but also that it 
 should be regularly drawn out by certain parts, representing the fingers and thumbs of the spinner. The con- 
 trivance by which this last means was effected, consisted in a certain number of pairs of cylinders, each two 
 revolving in contact with each other. Suppose a very loose thread, or slightly twisted carding of cotton, to 
 pass between one pair of cylinders (clothed with a proper facing to enable them to hold it) and let it be imagined 
 to proceed from thence to another pair, whose surfaces revolve much quicker; it will be evident that the 
 quicker revolution of the secfmd pair, will draw out the cotton, rendering it thinner and longer when it comes 
 to be delivered at the other side. This is precisely the operation which the spinner performs with her fingers 
 and thumb; and if the cotton be then applied to a spinning apparatus, it will be converted into thread." 
 
 From these general principles, the improvements of Sir Richard Arkwright may certainly be de<luced ; yet 
 there seems reason to believe, that the former would never have been so clearly stated, unless the machine bad 
 been previously seen in action.
 
 CROMFORD. 129 
 
 son was discovered dead, in an upright posiure. The miners would now have dis- 
 continued their exertions, as there seemed httle prohahihty of their lahours beinp; of 
 any avail ; but being encouraged to proceed (chiefly by tlie influence and persuasions 
 of Charles Hurt, of \V^irksworth, esq.) tliey at length discovered lioden, about three 
 o'clock in the morning of the twentieth ; and though he had not received any kind of 
 nourishment during the eight days of his confinement, he was still living, but greatly 
 emaciated. On being taken out, and treated with proper care, he so far recovered, as 
 to be able to return to his work in tlie space of fourteen weeks, lived many years, 
 and had several children, one of whom was born within a twelvemonth after the 
 accident. 
 
 To render the particulars of this extraordinary escape more intelligible, it should 
 be observed, tliat the entrance to the mine is by a perpendicidar shaft, forty-four 
 yards deep, from the bottom of which extends a gait, or drift (a passage in an hori- 
 zontal direction) eight yards in length, at the end of which descends a second shaft 
 (or, as tlie miners term it, a turn) to the depth of sixteen yards. At the bottom of 
 this is another gait, alwut twelve yards in length, from the extremity of which an- 
 other shaft extends to the depth of nearly twenty-four yards. At the top of every 
 shaft a windlass was placed, for the purpose of drawing up wh.atever might be extract- 
 ed from the mine ; and Pearson's employment was to draw up to the top of the second 
 shaft, the ore, &c. that was obtained by Boden at the bottom. 
 
 At the distance of seventy yards from the entrance to the mine was a pool of water, 
 which, though generally containing but a small quantity, had, at the time of the acci- 
 dent, been much increased through wet weather. The ground between the mine and 
 the pool had been undermined in searching for lead ore ; and it is supposed that the 
 additional weight of water over the vacuity, had forced down the earth, Avhich filled 
 the mine to the depth of ten yards in the second shaft. As the earth that rushed in 
 descended below, Pearson's station at the mouth of this shaft, he was consequently 
 jammed in there, and v/as discovered dead, as already mentioned. The remarkable 
 circumstance, that the rubbish did-not sink into the mine so low as to reach Boden, 
 but stopped in its descent a few yards above him, may in some measure be accounted 
 for, by observing, that the part of the mine where its fall ended, was somewhat 
 straitened by the projection of a large stone, an obstacle which Boden had often inef- 
 fectually attempted to remove. 
 
 It appears, from a conversation held with the man thus strangely preservetl from 
 deatli, that, after contemplating his horrid situation awhile, during the first hours 
 of his iraprisoi'inent, lie lay down and slept. On awaking, the idea of perishing for 
 want of food rushed upon his mind, and he recollected that he had four pounds of 
 candles with him in the mine : with these, when pressed by hunger, he endeavoured 
 to appease his appetite ; but after two or three vain attempts to swallow such loath- 
 some food, he desisted; and the candles were found after his release: his thirst, 
 which he had no means of alleviating, was excessive. Feeling extremely cold, he tried 
 to remove this inconvenience by exercising himself in turning the windlass at the 
 further end of the drift ; but having the misfortune to let the handle fail into the 
 shaft below, he was deprived of this resource. 
 
 After the space of three or four days, as he imagines, being almost in a state of dis- 
 traction, he ascw-'ided, by means of a rope that hung down, to tliat part of tlie mine 
 where the rubbisli had stopped in its descent, and, by labouring hard, caused a large 
 quantity of it to fall to the bottom of the shaft. He was employed in this manner, 
 when, at length, he heard the mineis at work above him, and by the expedient of 
 knocking with a stone, contrived to apprize them that he was still alive. Though it 
 is evident, from this circumstance, that he retained his senses, he can hardly be per- 
 suaded that he was not deprived of them, and fancies that he was prompted to make 
 the signals by some friendly voice, receiving from it an assurance, that if he did so, 
 he should be rescued from his dreadful ])rison. 
 
 The signals which he made were heard by the miners about eight hours before they 
 reached him ; and he describes himself as so nuich terrified by their noise, and by 
 apprehensions that persons were coming to murder him, that he should certainly have 
 
 R
 
 130 CROMFORD. 
 
 destroyed liimself, if he had not been closely confined by the earth which he liad 
 drawn down, and which so filled the lower part of the shaft, that he was almost pre- 
 vented from moving. In the midst of the panic that agitated him, he swallowed a 
 considerable quantity of earth, which was afterwards expelled by proper remedies. 
 He complained most that his legs were benumbed and dead ; but their natural heat 
 being restored by friction, no bad consequence ensued. A\lien the accident happen- 
 ed, he was forty-nine years of age, and then weighed upwards of twelve stone ; but 
 imagines that he was reduced to half that weight by his confinement in the mine ; 
 yet, as he was not weighed, this cannot be affirmed with certainty. The anniversary 
 of his dehverance from his subterraneous prison, he regarded as a day of thankfulness 
 and jubilee ; and surely few individuals have had more reason than this man to ex- 
 press their gratitude to a protecting Providence. 
 
 FIXIS.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Preliminm-y observations — trade and commerce of the county — list of noblemen and 
 gentlevien's seats — road sketches. 
 
 BUXTON page 1. 
 
 Situation, extent, populutinn, trade, market and fairs — navie — antiquity — Roman re- 
 mains — Dr. Jones's Buckstones Bathe Benejite — ancient buildings — the hall — 
 Queen of Scots' visits — Buxton in the time of Elizabeth — Lord Burleigh and 
 the Earl of Leicester's visits — the baths — tempera?ncnt and analysis (fthe water — 
 rules for bathing by Dr. Denmun and Mr. Page — lines by Cotton — St. Anne's 
 well — Basset's letter to Lord Cromwell — rnodern buildings — Crescent — Hall Bank 
 — Square — new church — old church — stables — charities — scenery — amusements — 
 curiosities — Pool's Hole, Elden Hole, S^c. 
 
 CHATSWORTH, page 17. 
 
 Situation — Doomsday Survey — manor — extent — scenery — Sonnet by Clio Pickman — 
 Chatsworih House, by whom built — lines by the Rev. R. Cunningham — Countess of 
 Shrewsbwy — Mary Queen of Scots — Sir William Cecil's letter — Chatsivorth during 
 the civil wars — lines by Cotton — modern Chatsworth built by the Jirst Duke <f 
 Devonsliire — artists employed by him. Gibbons, Cibher, Watson, Sir James Thorn- 
 hill, Verrio, Laguerre, 6{c. — Chatsworth enlarged by the present Duke — Sir Jc/frey 
 Wyatville — description of the House, paintings, carving, sculpture, tapestry, gar- 
 dens, and water works — Family History — Pedigree — estate, 
 
 EDENSOR, page 53. 
 
 Situation, population, extent of the township, and parochial expenses — manor — Church 
 — monuments and monumental inscriptions — charities — inn. 
 
 CASTLETON, page 57. 
 
 Situation — population — trade — extent of the township, and parochial expenses — mar- 
 ket and fairs — Cotton's lines — Doomsday Survey — manor, castle and castellans — 
 Pcverel family — church — nionutuenial inscriptions — charities — the Winnats — 3[am 
 Tor, or the Shivering Mountain — Odin mine — Speedwell level, or A^uvigaiion mine 
 • — Peak's Hole, or Devil's Cave — Bagshaw, or Crystallized cavern — Cave Dale — 
 minerals, 5^c.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 BAKEWELL, page 70. 
 
 Anfiquity of — situation, population, trade — market and fairs — extent and valuation of 
 the fiarisk — extent and parochial expenses of the township — mai'hle quarries — schools 
 and friendli/ societies — river Wj/e — baths — quality of the waters — Doomsday Sur- 
 vey — manor — church — monuments and monumetdal inscriptions — ancient font and 
 cross — ch a rities. 
 
 HADDON, page 82. 
 
 Situation — extent — manor, possessors of the — Haddon Hall — Mrs. Balmano's Poem, 
 on position and description — -furniture — paintin}rs — tapestry — chapel — Ro?nan altar 
 — ancient song — the Wye — Rowsley — Stanton Woodhouse — Family History — Pedi- 
 gree — estate. 
 
 MATLOCK, page 104. 
 
 Situation, population, manufactures, fairs, extent, valuation, and parochial expenses — 
 friendly societies — inns — coaches — manor — manor court — Riber — church — monu- 
 ments — charities — schools — scenery — High Tor — Heights of Abraham, or Mas- 
 S(m — Dungeon Tors, or Romantic Cliffs — petrifying spring — tufa — Roman pigs of 
 lead — antiquity of the mines — caverns — mineral waters — batJis — Willersley castle 
 and gardens — A rkwright family — Wollcy family — Tissington — Nuttall — Rawlin- 
 son, ^c. 
 
 CROMFORD, page 125. 
 
 Situation, population, manufactures, canal, rail road, market and fairs — extent, valu- 
 ation, parochial expenses, friendly societies, inns, and coaches — manor — church — 
 7nonuments — charities — schools — maruifacture of cotton — lines by Dr. Darwin — 
 Roman coins — accident at a mine culled Godbehere' s Founder, and miraculous 
 escape of Boden, a miner.
 
 Dedicated with Permission to. His Grace the D UKE of BE VONSHIRE, and Patronized 
 
 by the Principal Nobility, Gentry, Clergy, Yeomanry, Manufacturers and Tradesmen 
 of the County. 
 
 IN THE TRESS, AND SPEEDILY WILL BE PUBLISHED, 
 
 Neatly printed in two Volumes, demySvo. tlie pricenotlo exceed £l.\Os. royal 8vo. £2. lOjr. anddciiiy 4to. £1. 
 Proof impressions of the plates £1. extra, 
 
 THE HISTORY AND GAZETTEER 
 OF THE COUNTY OF DERBY, 
 
 Drawn up from actual Observation, and from the best Authorities, and so arranged 
 as to impart the fullest useful information to all Travellers through this County, 
 whether their object be Pleasure, Scientific Pursuits, or Business. — This AV'ork will 
 be illustrated with a Map and numerous Copper Plate and "Wood Engravings, by the 
 most eminent Artists. 
 
 The following is a List of some of tJie Subjects of the Embellishments : 
 
 IN DERBY. — All Saints', and the other Churches. Some of the CHiapels, In- 
 firmary, Silk Mills, County Prison, County Hall, Assembly Room, Town Hall, «S;c. — 
 CHURCHES: Ashbourn, Bakewell, Beljjcr, Chesterfield, Chapel-en-le- Frith, 
 llepton, Tideswell, "NYirksworth, &c. — Buxton Crescent; High Torr, Matlock, (S;c. 
 GENTLEMEN'S SEATS: Chatsworth House, "Willersley Castle, Stanton House, 
 Bretby House, Calke Abbey, Barlborough Hall, Doveridge Hall, Drakelow Hall, 
 Elvaston Hall, Haddon Hall, Hardwick Hall, Kedleston Hall, Sudbury Hall, 
 Langley Hall, Melbourn Hall, Tissington Hall, Ashbourn Hall, Iladbourn Hall, 
 WillesJey Hall, Eggintcn Hall, &c.— RUINS: Dale Abbey, A\'infield Manor, Cas- 
 tleton Castle, Bolsover Castle, and various other Engravings of Monuments, Natural 
 Curiosities, &c. The Armorial Bearings of every Nobleman ar.d Gentleman resident 
 in the County. — Portraits of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire; His Grace the 
 Duke of Rutland; Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King at Arms ; Sir John Gcll, the 
 Parliamentary General ; Sir Richard Arkwright, the inventor of the Cotton-spinning 
 Machinery ; Jedediah Strutt, esq. Cotton-spinner and inventor of the Derby-rib 
 Stocking Frame; Samuel Oldknow, esq. manufacturer of British Muslins; Rev. 
 John Flamsteed, Astronomer Royal ; James Brindley, esq. Engineer ; Francis L. 
 Chantrey, esq. and Mr.Samuel Watson, Sculptors ; Joseph A\'right, esq. Painter ; 
 John AVhitehurst, esq. Clock-maker and Mechanic, author of the Theory of the Earth. 
 
 The materials collected and arranged by Stji'h en Glovek, of Derby, the Pro- 
 prietor and Pubhsher; edited by Thomas Noble, Esq. 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 No County in the kingdom contains a greater diversity of objects worthy the atten- 
 tion of strangers, or of its own inhabitants, than Dekuvshike. Its Scenery is of 
 every variety ; the rude and romantic sublimity of the Peak — the wildly irregular 
 beauties of the A\' ye — the abriq-.t magnificence of tlie banks of the Dove, and the 
 wealthy domains through wliich the Trent and Derwent flow, enriched widi minerals, 
 and covered with the fruits of cultivation, and the works of art and industry ; all 
 these present, on every side, objects of achniration, at once numerous, delightful, in- 
 teresting, and important. 
 
 The Tourist is not, indeed, invited to the Survey of this County by the woiulers 
 only with which Nature has endowed it, nor by the Picturesque diversities of its
 
 Rocks, Rivers, and Caverns ; but, if he be devoted to the study of the Earths and 
 Minerals, he will no where find a more abundant Natural Museum for his researches, 
 than that furnished by the regions of the Peak ; if Antiquities are his delight, there 
 are Towers and Castles, ^Monuments and JMonastic Remains, in every part of the 
 county ; if Modern ]\Iagnificence, Pictures, Statues, and the enrichment of Natural 
 Beauties by the elegance of Art, can gratify his taste, there are Chatsworth, Elvaston, 
 Hardwick, Kedleston, &c. ; if he be a Valetudinarian, seeking health from mountain 
 breezes and medicinal waters ; or, if wearied with the business and tumult of the 
 Metropolis, he want relaxation amid elegant society and natural attractions, there are 
 Matlock, Bakewell, and Buxton ; if he be in quest of the labours of industry, the 
 works of ingenuity and the intercourse of trade, there are jSIines and Manufactories, 
 Canals and Rail Roads, populous Towns and busy Districts, the opulent Manufac- 
 turer, and the wealthy Agriculturist, ever ready to open to liim the knowledge of 
 those astonishing means by which they so rapidly create and diffuse aroimd them 
 riches and prosperity. 
 
 That a County so central, combining in itself so much to engage the notice of the 
 admirer of Nature, and the lover of Art ; the scientific student ; the antiquarian ; 
 the man of business, and the man of pleasure, should, nevertheless, be still without a 
 correct and general Guide-Book to the various objects of their several researches, has 
 been frequently a matter of serious complaint. — The works that have hitherto aimed 
 at supplying this great defect, have been, for the most part, the productions of Pic- 
 turesque or Poetical Tourists, or have been hmited to the Baths of Matlock and 
 Buxton, with such repetitions relative to the wonders of the Peak, as they gleaned 
 Avith little improvement from one another. 
 
 There is no work yet in existence that combines in itself that diversity of useful 
 information, which those who visit this important County must be anxious to acquire : 
 for assuredly, no stranger comes here, even upon business, who does not wish to be 
 informed where he may look for the interesting beauties and wonders that surround 
 him ; nor can there well be any so absorbed in scientific pursuits, or in the delights 
 of the Picturesque, as to be without curiosity respecting those productions of industry 
 (whether drawn from the bowels of the earth, or derived from machinery) which 
 give activity and sustenance to the busy population among whom he is sojoufhing. 
 
 "^Vith the intention, therefore, of supplying this defect of general information, the 
 Publication now announced as well to the Nobility, Gentry, and other Inhabitants of 
 Derbyshire, as to Strangers, has been prepared, and as the best authorities have been 
 resorted to — as personal enquiries and observations on the most extensive scale have 
 been made, and, as persons of talent have been employed in every way that may give 
 correctness, utility, and elegance to these compendious volumes, the Proprietor does 
 not hesitate to look forw^ard with confidence to the Patronage of the Public. 
 
 PLAN. 
 
 The "\rork will be published in two neat and elegant Volumes, in demy 8vo. royal 
 8vo. and demy 4to. — It will contain a History of the County: a complete Outline 
 of its Geography, with correct Topography of the Towns, 8cc. illustrated with a gen- 
 eral Map, and numerous Engravings. — Accounts of every ToM-n and Village: Seats 
 of Noblemen and Gentlemen. — Biographical Sketches of eminent Persons. — Particu- 
 lars of the Discoveries and Improvements ; and of ]Mining, Enclosures, Manufactures, 
 Trades, Sec. — A succinct Account of the Antiquities of the County. Particulars 
 relative to the Churches, Chapels, Public Charities, and all Hospitals and other Chari- 
 table Institutions, — The objects of Curiosity and Scientific interest throughout the 
 Peak ; with Explanatory Extracts from Mineralogical Writers. — Correct Information 
 respecting the Baths and Amusements of BakeweU, Buxton, and ^Matlock. — Cata- 
 logues of Indigenous Plants and Natural Productions. — Notices of the principal 
 resident famihes, with their armorial bearings and genealogical tables, &c. &c.
 
 CONTENTS.— Vol I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 diseases: health: longevity. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Geology and siMerranean gmgrap/ii/ of Di^rhi/xldn: Princijuil strotit, tnid t/nir positions. Grnivl: clnii- marl • 
 
 magnesian limestone. Coul nuasiin:^, Jhult, J<ic. in the great eoaljieht. Gritstone : mineral limestone and' tiHUlstime 
 
 strata, mineral veins, .Sfc. : fourth limestone, its gulfs i,r enverns and fault. Lead, and nuxies ofworhing the vans 
 
 ^c. Copper. Iron. Coals, modes of working, ^c. Marhies, stone (juarries, slates, ifc. Kar'tlis. Sumniarij ' 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Natural productions of Derlnjshire. Observations. Plants: beasts: birds : Jislies : reptiles and insects 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Pr^imtTiary observations on the agriculture of Derbyshire. Kstates, value of land, leases and rents, farms cottam-i 
 
 tithes, SfC.; implements of agriculture ; enclosures ; fences and hedges ; hedge-row timber ; gates. Tillage- course's 
 
 of crops ; inemloiu aiul /xisture ; grasses ; dairy farms ; improvement of horses, cattle, slieep aiul trigs ; farm build- 
 ings, agricultural societies, ^c. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Manufactures: trade and occujyitions : commerce with other counties and with Lmulon ; general exports : convnmncc 
 of goods and passengers, flagons, m7is, stage coeiclies : roads, bridges, catuxls aiul railways, fairs and nidrHets 
 Circulating medium. Tradesmen's copper tokens, Sfc. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Ardiqjilties : British remains: Castle-hill Barrows : ArMmes; B/io-Tor rocks, Graned Tor and other Tors- Nine 
 Ladies, Hocking-stoiws, Rolnn Hood's murk, SfC. Celts, I'^c — lioman antitjuUies, camps, stations, coins, &c. An- 
 cient Saxon, Danish and other remains. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Customs, mpcrstitions, amusements, nmnners, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ATUient hiitory. — Remains of the Druids, Mercian Kings. — Saxon government. State at the time of the Cnnmieit 
 
 Peverel, SfC— Grants to the Ferrers, Sfc. If^ars of the roses. Karl of Derby. Mary Queen of Scots.— Halnngtini 
 
 lieliellion in the reign of Charles I. witli reference to Vie Duke of Newcastle, Sir Juhii GeU, c^c. llevolution in l(J8s! 
 
 Bebclllmis in 1715 and 17'JJ. — Modern occurrences. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 Ecclesiastical tiiitory. — Druids, already mentioned. Introduction of Christianity. Rcftrrmalioiu^Joan fVaste and 
 Joyce, daugliter ofTfwiiuis Curzon, ofCroxali, esq. martyrs. Spread of dissenters, ^c. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Government of the county. Lieutenancy. Magistracy. — Public qf/iccrs. — County court. Borough court, Duchi/court 
 Peverel court. Prisons. Tliefinunciai affairs of the county. Times and j>laces of liolding Vie Sessions (ftfw Peace'. 
 Puhlic institutions. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Biography of the most eminent natives and public characters, iriz. fVarriors, Lawyers, AtUhors, Painters, Sculptors 
 Inventors, Kngineers, Benefactors, Sjc. ' ' 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Ancient family history aTid introduction to the parochial history. 
 
 Vol. II. 
 
 Contains the Parochial and Family History, viz.: the towns and villages, alphaMiealli/ arranged : the population 
 situation, e.elent, v<duati,oi and /larorhial expenses of every township ; the friendly societies, cliar'itat/UinstUutio,^ 
 ami charities lie/onging tn each, and a description of the churches, monuments, rentarkidile fonts, stalls screens S-c 
 with the present value if the livings, as far us can be ascertained. — Some account i,f the present resident families' 
 which rvill include their ariniirial bearings ami gemiilugieiil tallies. PUins and deseri/it ions of the most reinarkalV- 
 noblemen's scats, arui piddic buMings. The Doomsday Survey, and descent of the nuinorsfrum the Conquest to tlic 
 present time. 
 
 Subscribers to the Quarto Edition. 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, 
 K. (3. Lord Lieut, of the County 
 (two copies) 
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 K. G. (two copies) 
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 K. G. 
 His Grace the Duke of Portland, 
 
 K. G. 
 The Most Noble the Marquess of 
 
 Hastings 
 The Countess of Farnsworth 
 The lU. Hon. Earl Ferrers 
 The Rt. Hon. Earl of Chesterfield 
 The lit. Hon. Earl of Shrewsbury 
 The lit. Hon. Earl of Ncwburgh 
 The Rt. Hon. F^arl .Stanhope 
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 The Rt. Hon. Lord Vernon (two 
 
 copies) 
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 zon 
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 kine, M. A. 
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 Derby 
 Sir Henry F'itzherbert, Bart. 
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 M. P. 
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 M. P. 
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 Sacheverell Baleman, Esq. 
 
 William Webster, Esq.
 
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 Peter Nightingale, Esq. 
 
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 Rodes 
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 Mr. Dancer (London) 
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 Mr. Ingle, Solicitor 
 Mr. John Garton (Lumsdale) 
 
 Mr. William Chenerv, Surgeon 
 
 Dr. Gilbert (Matlock Bath) 
 
 Mr. William Walker iLea) 
 
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 Mr. F. B. Page, Solicitor 
 
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 William Charlton, Esq. 
 
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 James Sutton, Esq. (two copies) 
 
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 Spinners 
 
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 Spinners 
 
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