msiL. nia OficialJllustrated Jf arvdbook and Hailiifa i] Q uide. •''iV:^^ ■■ '■■■''':■ '■-■■■;'>6V-:':v'' ,''':Vf '.* 1-^ THE COLONY OF NATAL AN OFFICIAL ILLUSTEATED HANDBOOK AND E AIL WAY GUIDE BY J. FOESYTH INGBAM, Author of "The Land of Gold, Diamonds, and Ivory," etc., etc., etc. PUBLISHED BY AUTHOKITY. LONDON : PRINTED BY SIR JOSEPH CAUSTON AND SONS, 9, EASTCHEAP, E.G. 1895. 1)1 cram I^OBEVU RIVER. UMVOTI COUNT CONTENTS OF SECTIONS. SECTION I. PAGE Introduction i Review of Past and Present I'osition of Colony. SKCTION II. Physical Geography 4 Position and Boundaries — Mountain Kanges— River System— Climates — Rainfall — Seasons. SECTION III. People, Language, Government, and Settlements - 16 Population — Races— Native Habits — Laws — Government — The Ministry and Officials — Agent-General — List of Governors — ^Divisions and Settlements--The Journals of South Africa — Education — Volunteers — Police. SECTION IV. Finance, Commerce, Industries, Productions, Stock 32 The Public Debt and Sinking Fund— Public Works — Telegraphs — Crown Lands — Native and Mission Reserves — Analysis of Railway Expenditure and Revenue— Financial Statistics — Shipping and Trade Statistics — Imports and Exports — Overberg Trade — Factories and Works — Colonial Productions and Industries — Sugar and Tea Statistics — Stock — Neglected Industries. SECTION V. Natal Government Railways 43 Railway History of Natal — Comparative Statement of Railway Company from 1868 to 1874 — Inauguration under (Government — Statistics from 1885 to 1890 — Gradients, Curves and Altitudes— Mileage — Conveniences — Discipline — Summary Tables. 11771 m VI. CONTKNTS OF SKCTIONS. SECTION VI. PAGE Geology, Forests, Flora, Animals, etc, - - - 49 Igneous and Hypogene Rocks — The Granite Line — Sandstones — Coal — Boulder Clay — Limestones — Fossils — Iron Ores^Gold and Silver — Forests — Palms — Orchidse and other flowers — Heavy Game — Hyaenas — Leopard — Wild Boars — Porcupines — Hares — List of Wild Bucks — Baboons — Crocodiles — Reptiles — Insects — Birds — Fish — Game Laws. SECTION VII. Umtamvuna to the Bluff 70 The Coast Line of Natal — Alfred County — Alexandra County — Umzimkulu — The Death Place — Port Shepstone — River Scenery— Norwegian Settlement — Marble Quarries— Umzinto — Sugar, Gold — Umkomaas. SECTION VIII. The Bluff, Harbour and Bay 82 The Cape of Natal — Armament — Lighthouse and Signal Station — Bluff Scenery and Life — The Breakwaters and Bar — Bird's-eye View — The Wharves and landing facilities — Port Offices — Shipping — Port Improvements — The Bay — The Hon. Harry Escombe, Q.C., ML. A. section ix. Durban 9^ Addington — Foundation of Durban — Rateable Value — Description— Institu- tions — Umbilo Water Works — Umlaas Water Works — Observatory — Chemical Laboratories — The Railway Station — Railway Workshops. SECTION X. Durban to Isipingo no Congella and old Battlefield — Fruit Culture — South Coast Junction — Sugar Plantations — Village of Isipingo. SECTION XI. Durban to Umgeni 117 The Eastern Vlei — Mouth of Umgeni — The Village. CONTENTS OF SECTIONS. Vll. SECTION XII. PAGE UMGENI to VERULAM 122 Sea Cow Lake — Arrowroot —Sugar — Early I-'ftbrts Mount Edgecombe Central Sugar Factory — Date Palms — Verulam — Lindley's Mission Station — Inanda —Little Buffalo River -Natives — Directions to Travellers. SECTION XIII. Verulam to Lower Tugela 135 Divisions — Postal Service— Fuller's Flats — Victoria Village — Mammoth Cave — Compensation Flats— Umhlali River— Rice Culture — Umvoti Mission Station — Umvoti River — Village of Stanger — Chaka's Kraal — His Death and Burial Place— Tea Plantations — Tea Culture and Manufacture — Further Developments — Zululand Coal —Tugela River — Fort Pearson. SECTION XIV. Durban to Pietermaritzburg - . - - - - 147 A glance ahead^Village of Bellair — Fruit Culture — Value of Land — Malvern — Banana Plantations — Pineapples — Naartjes and Oranges — Pinetown— New Germany — Trappist Monastery— Krantz Kloof Scenery — Botha's Hill Cuttings — Inchanga — History of Camperdown — Agricultural Products— Richmond — Distant View of Maritzburg — Fort Napier — Maritzburg Railway Station. SECTION XV. Pietermaritzburg— Its History and Description - - 172 Early Events — The Founding of the City — The first Church — Proclamation of District of Natal — First Newspaper — Postal Service— First Council — The Seal — Finances — Depression — Wars — Di.scovery of Gold — Water Supply — Societies and Institutions — Statistics — Local Industries — Agricultural and Horticultural Societies — Improvements — ^ Public Buildings — Churches — Monuments — Maritz- burg College — The Press — The Natal Bank. SECTION XVI. Maritzburg to Greytown and Tugela Valley— The POLELA District 199 Journey to Greytown— The Settlement- Hermannsburg- Ostrich Farming — Wild Scenery — Natal Gold Fields— I'eeps of Zululand — Journey to Polela— The Umkomaas— Stock Breeding — The Wattle-Bark Industry. Vlll. CONTENTS OK SKCTIONS. SECTION XVIT. PAGE Maritzburg to Ladysmith 215 The Military Cemetery — Edendale Mission Station— Zwaartkop Range — Teteleku's Location — Hilton Road — Howick — The Falls — Upland Scenery and Districts — -Stock Farms and Plantations — Estcourt — Weensn Massacre — The Blood River Battle — Dingaan's Day^ — Tugela River — Ladysmith. SECTION XVIII. Ladysmith to Harrismith— The Orange Free State - 233 Distance — Altitudes — The Drakensberg — Reversing Station — Van Reenen's — A Grand Panorama — Bushmen Caves and Drawings — Harrismith — The Orange Free State. SECTION XIX. Ladysmith to Dundee and Newcastle— The Zululand Gold Fields - - - - - - - - - 243 Pastoral Country — Coal — Dundee — Vryheid — Gold Fields — Glencoe Junction — Scenes of Boer War — Newcastle — The Woollen Factory — Coal Mines. SECTION XX. Newcastle to Volksrust— The Transvaal Republic - 251 .\majuba Mountain — Buffalo River — Reversing Station — Charlestown Sheep —The Border — Volksrust — The Transvaal Republic. SECTION XXI. Volksrust to Johannesburg and Pretoria - - - 261 Standerton — Heidelberg — Johannesburg — Rise and Progress of the Transvaal Gold Fields — Gold Returns — Pretoria- -Conclusion. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. General view of Point, Addington, Durban and H Ingobevu River, Umvoti County .... Map of Natal. Mont aux Sources, Draken.shero TuGELA Falls, from a distance of Ten Miles TuGELA River, Sixty Miles from the Sea . Middle Tugela Falls .... Krantz Kop Group of Natal Zulus A Native Chieftain holding his Court Native Witch Doctor .... Interior of Native Chieftain's Hut Native from Southern District Type of Native Woman Natal's First Ministry The Hon. Sir Walter Francis Helv-Hutchinson, K.C. Governor of Natal and Zululand Mr. David Hunter, General Manager Natal Gov ment Railways .... Sectional Diagrams, Natal Railways Granite Blocks, Middle Umgeni Krantz Kloof Formations . A Spur of Table Mountain Forest Scene in Natal Euphorbia Trees near Pinetown Giant Aloes, Tugela Valley . Palm Trees {Phamix reclinata) NYMPH/EA Stellata Encephalatus Altenstf;nii bushbuck Shooting Bushbuck Horns of the Antelope Natal Butterflies Pioneer's Hut .... M.G. ERN- ■AGK ii. 5 7 9 12 14 17 i8 19 20 21 22 24 27 43 49 51 52 54 56 59 61 63 64 65 66 68 69 71 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Umtamvuna River, South Natal 72 The Place ok Death, Umzimkulu Coast . . . -73 Port Shepstone, Estuary of Umzimkulu . . . -74 St. Helen's Rock, Umzimkulu 76 View on Umzimkulwana River 77 Quarrying Blocks of Marble, Umzimkulu . . . .78 Mouth and Harbour of Umkomaas River . . . -79 Punt over Umkomaas River ... ... 80 The Bluff, Natal 83 Entrance to Harbour, Durban 84 Main Wharf, Point, Durban 85 Main Wharf, Point, Durban 86 St. Paul's Wharf, Durban 87 Custom House, Point, Durban 88 View on Durban Bay 89 Bay and Islands, Port Natal 90 The Cave Rock, Bluff 92 Durban, from Berea 94 The Observatory, Berea, Durban 97 Central West Street, Durban 98 West Street looking West, Durban . . . . .101 Durban Club 102 Fruit and Vegetable Market, Durban 104 Jubilee Fountain and Town Hall, Durban . . . .105 Central Railway Station, Durban 107 Vagaries of Foliage in Rocks near Isipingo 115 Railway and Traffic Bridge over Umgeni River . .118 View on Umgeni River 119 A Forest Scene 121 Cutting Sugar Cane 123 Central Sugar Factory, Mount Edgecombe . . .125 Buffalo Falls 126 Kafirs at Food 128 Stacks of Kafir Corn 130 Native Woman grinding Corn 131 A Native Hut 132 A N.\tive Dandy 133 A Loyal Natal-Zulu Warrior 134 Tobacco Plantation 136 LIST OK ILLUSTRATIONS. XI. N PiNETOWN Cave at Indumeni. Tea Plantation, Kearsney Estate Tea Factory, Kearsney Estate Pineapple Plantation . Banana Plantation Bananas Krantz Kloof River, np:ar Pinetow River Scene near Pinetown View on Umbilo River Poet's Corner, Inkutu River, near The Gorge, Krantz Kloof . Inkutu Falls The Palmiet River Krantz Kloof, near Gillitt's Station . Krantz Kloof River Railway Cutting near Botha's Hill Interior of Railway Station, Maritzburg Interior of Railway Station, Maritzburg Railway Station, Maritzburg . Maritzburg, looking North Maritzburg, looking South Church Street, Maritzburg General Post Office and Court House, Maritzburg Natal Police Barracks, Maritzburg Parliament Buildings, Maritzburc; . Town Hall, Maritzbur(; .... Interior of Town Hall, and Organ Market, Maritzburg Lake in Botanical Gardens, Maritzburg Unveiling Jubilee Statue of Her Majesty Zulu War Monument, Maritzburc; Town Bush Valley Falls . Natal Railway Lower Umgeni Falls . In the Aloe Forests, Tugela Ostrich Farm, Umvoti Thorns Tugela Rapids, Umsinga Inthungwain Bluff, North Frontie M'Behlan Mountain, North P'roxtikk, Natal Gold Prospector's Hut, Umsinga R, Natal PAGE '39 141 '44 .48 '49 50 '5' 152 '53 ■54 56 57 ■59 162 164 166 167 169 170 173 176 178 ;i r84 185 '87 190 191 '93 '94 '95 196 '97 200 201 202 204 206 207 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Panning Gold, Inc.oi'.kvu River Mouth of a Drivk, Natal Gold F'ields TUGELA River .... Herd of Cattle Edendale Falls Natives with Shields and Spka Head-ringed Native Head of Howick Falls HovvicK Falls .... UiMGENi Cascades . Farm Yard Scene . Railway Bridge, Lion's River Cascade on Lion's River Colenso Bridge Railway Bridc;e, Tugela Town Hall, Ladysmith Western Frontier of Natal Bushmen Caves and Drawings, Drakensberg Champagne Castle, Drakensberg, showing Snow Napoleon Kop, near Harrismith A Post Cart on Uplands . Mountain Scenery The Crest of Dum Dum Castle Ingogo, Amajuba, and Laing's Nek Battlefields Military Cemetery near Amajuba . Head Gear on Gold Mine, Johannesburg Interior of Battery, Johannesburg Commissioner Street, Johannesburg View in Johannesburg. The Hospital, Johannesburg The Standard Bank, Pretoria Raadzaal, Pretoria River Scene in Natal PAGE 209 21 1 212 213 216 218 219 220 22 1 223 224 225 226 227 229 231 234 237 239 241 244 247 249 253 256 262 263 265 267 270 271 272 273 SECTION I. INTRODUCTION, THE purpose of the following volume is to provide, in a condensed form, not only a reliable descriptive guide to the Natal Government Railway System, but a handbook to the Colony, which will be of practical utility alike to the settler and the traveller. This has been rendered necessary by reason of the rapid march of events in Natal within the past decade. Time was, and that not so long ago either, when each State and Colony in South Africa held aloof from the other, when lumbering ox-wagons formed the principal means of communication, and when petty jealousies, the outcome of isolation, prevailed, not only between the various races of the country, but between each separate territor\\ That period is now happily at an end. The Cape of Good Hope, the Orange Free State, the South African Republic, Delagoa Bay, and the far mystic lands of the Matabeles and Mashonas are now linked together by bonds of steel. A brighter and more prosperous era has dawned. With better knowledge of each other, with increased facilities for intercourse, and with broadened trade lines, the kindred states of South Africa stand a better chance of attaining that solid peace and prosperit)' which are so essential to the consolidation of the best and truest interests of the land. Owing to many causes, but principally to that of isolation, the natural features, climatic attractions, and productions of Natal, have not been brought before the world as prominently as they deserve. Notwithstanding this, the Colony has progressed, and to-day, those who may visit it will find but few evidences in the present, of the disabilities of the past. By their own efforts, the Colonists of Natal have overcome much of the stagnation and poxcrty which are incidental to the evolution of a new land. Bounded on the south, as Natal was, by Pondoland, an independent native state, on the north by Zululand, another savage territory, to the west by the open plains of the PVee State and Transvaal, and on the east by the Indian Ocean, it is scarcely a marvel that the Colony was little known. The menace of Pondoland has now been removed by the annexation of that country to the Cape of Good Hope, Zululand, a British Crown Colony, is under firm control : its war spirit exorcised. A railway system throughout the greatest length of, and nearly across the Colony, has been completed and connected with other lines, while away to the west and north, far almost as the mind can soar, the magic spell of gold and diamonds has transformed the land from a wilderness to a region of untold treasure. Within the frontiers of Natal there is ample scope for the energies of the agriculturist, the trader, the miner, and the manufacturer. Further on in these pages, as the details of the Colony's worth are unfolded, strangers will come to realise that, despite the many troubles and drawbacks of the past, the land has steadily and satisfactorily advanced. The common reproach brought against it, was that while it could produce good trade samples of many important staples, it never did so in bulk, enough to warrant a steady trade. In order to remove this impression, and to impart a fair general knowledge of the subject to readers, it will be necessary to outline in brief the position, size, climates, physical geography, productions, and trade as they stand to-day. In the limited space of such a manual as the present, there is no necessity to dip into the political history of the Colony ; other authorities may be consulted in that connection. The Natal of to-day is theme enough for one volume, and in treating it, an effort will be made, not only to avoid the ordinary and wearisome guide-book style, but to make the work as interesting and readable, as authentic and useful. Carefully compiled statistics, many of which have never yet been placed in consecutive form before the public, will be found incorporated in Section IV., and elsewhere throughout the volume. The thanks of the author are due to those who have so freely assisted him in the compilation of statistics, and he would especially mention his indebtedness to the Departments of the Engineer-in-Chief of Railways, Surveyor-General, and the Engineer of Public Works. In addition to these he would acknowledge the valuable aid rendered by Mr. J. T. Edwards in connection with the Flora ; Mr. D. F. Forsyth, B.A., for particulars regarding Maritzburg ; Mr. Harold Duncum, also the artists from whose collections some of the illustrations were obtained. 1^ i'ing between the sources of the Umkomaas, and Bushman's Neck. It also forms the boundary between Griqualand East and Natal. Though its scenery is far from MIDDLE TUGELA FALLS. being as striking as that of the Tugela, it is rich in grandeur. Eoaming rapids rush through mountain gorges, whose dark forests are the homes of a variety of deer and other wild animals. This region is likely to be heard of by others than sportsmen, for marble deposits of considerable extent occur clo.se to Port Shepstone. A cement manufactory has been established, where a good article is produced ; while sugar, coffee, tea, fruit, and many other items of use constitute the cargoes of the coasting steamers which \-isit it fortnightly. Harbour works of considerable extent have been, and are in progress, with beneficial results on the little bar at the mouth of the Port. There arc five seconcl-clas.s rivers in Natal, vi/., the Umvoti, Umgeni, Umlaas, Illovo, and Umtamvuna. Amongst the third-class streams, commencing to count fr(Mn the northern frontier, are the Sinkwazi, Xonoti, Umhlali, Tongaat, Umhloti, and Great and Small Umhlangas in Victoria County. The Umbilo, Umhlatuzan, flowing into the bay at Durban, the Umbogintvvini and Amanzimtoti in Durban County, the Amahlongwa, Umpamban\oni, Umzinto, Ifafa, Umtwalumi, and Umzumbi in Alexandra County, and the Umbizana in Alfred County. The tributaries of these minor streams are far too numerous to particularise here, but from what has been set down, the reader, bearing in mind the size of the Colon)', will realise how well watered and fertile it is. By reason of the fortunate position of Natal on the earth's Climates. surface, it is not only one of the most salubrious countries in the world, but it, as has already been pointed out in a general way, enjoys a scale of climates not often obtainable in one country, and in such a comparatively limited area. Being in the soutli temperate zone, about 230 miles at its northern point from the tropic of Capricorn, its climates may be described as warm, temperate, sub-tropical, and in some cases, cold. The steppes, alread}^ described, rise from sea level to an altitude of t\vo and a quarter miles above it, in a distance of little more than one hundred miles. The various climates of these steppes are clearly marked and defined, thereby rendering the Colony one of the finest of health resorts. At Pietermaritz- burg, the capital, 2,218 feet, the average yearly temperature is about 64°. At rare intervals, during a few days in summer time, the temperature rises as high as 98°, while in winter it sometimes falls as low as 28'. These, however, are occasional extravagances, for as a rule the mean is well maintained. At Durban the average is 695', and the extremes 98 and 42. The average daily range does not exceed 20 however. In the winter months frost is sometimes seen on the coast lands, even at the sea level. Snow storms occur \earl)^ in the uplands. and, as already stated, snow-clad peaks are no uncommon sight upon the Berg. The average rainfall at Durban is 40, and at Alaritzburg, Rainfall. 13 :3*'«ssr'*i 38 inches ; the avcrai^c number of days on which rain falls at Durban is 61, and 58 in Maritzburg. This is of course exclusive of light passing showers. An average of about five inches falls every summer month, and two inches in every winter month. For this reason the summer is called the wet season, and the winter the dr}-. Roughly speaking there are only two seasons in Natal, ^^-asons, summer and winter. The former commences in October and ends with March. At midsummer the sun rises at five and sets at seven o'clock. At midwinter it rises at seven and sets at five. The spring and autumn are both so short and blended with the otlier seasons, as to be difficult of recognition. IS mih SECTION III. People and Languages. f PEOPLE, LANGUAGE, GOVERNMENT, AND SETTLEMENTS. THE population of Natal is set down at 45,000 whites, chiefly English, Dutch, and German. Coolies, indentured from India, and free or independent Indians, at 40,000, while the natives are variously estimated at from 450,000 to 500,000. The English and German settlers devote their energies chiefly to commercial and agricultural pursuits. The Dutch are mainly pastoral and agricultural workers. Most of the English and Germans occupy and cluster round the various towns and villages, while the Dutch affect the more outlying districts of the country. A most cordial feeling of respect and brotherhood exists between the European and the Dutch or Afrikander colonists. Not only Natal, but all South Africa, owes a deep debt of gratitude to the staunch descendants of the heroic Huguenots; for they lead God-fearing, useful lives, pay their way, and most materially add to the productions of the country by their industry and thrift. As the centres of civilisation expand, and the educational system of the Colony reaches them, they show a disposition to make full use of its benefits. In the uplands, the Dutch language is much used, and while English is of course the official tongue, the Government does all in its power to meet the views of this section of the community, by encouraging the study of the language in the State-aided schools. The English and German sections of the population are in no respect different to their confreres in their homelands. The Indians are taken, generally speaking, from the labouring classes of their own country. There are of course, exceptions, but the bulk, while useful, and in fact almost indispensable as regular, steady labourers, have amongst them a proportion 16 who produce more crime than the whites collectively. The sale of intoxicating liquors to them, and its prohibition from the natives may account for this. Indian labour was intro- duced to Natal, because the natives, who arc not yet educated up to the necessity of daily toil, were so intermittent and unreliable as workers, as to seriously jeopardise the Colony's agricultural prospects. In the earlier days, for lack of reliable labour, many an industry was wrecked, and many a failure, as the Insolvency Courts will attest, can be justly laid to this cause. In order to obviate it, contracts were entered into with the Indian Government with a view to the introduction of coolie labour. Much was written against this idea at first, but colonists speedily came to appreciate the advantage of a steady and reliable labour ' supply. Taken on the whole, the Indians have proved their value, and but little is now urged against them. The Indian population is under the especial care of an official called the " Protector of Indian Immigrants." It would be superfluous in these pages to do more than 17 biicfl)' outline the foregoing sections of the people. It may be interesting to state, by way of conclusion, that in 1894, the total deposits in the savings banks amounted to i^i 55,400. This, for so small a population, speaks for itself The natives claim a more detailed notice, not only because of their numbers, but by reason of the absorbing interest which they naturally possess for every European. Their quaintness and simplicit)^, combined with their acuteness and shrewdness, is most remarkable. The student of human character will find in their good nature, curious customs and methods of thought, a theme of the most profound interest. In them, he will discover primitive man, unaltered almost by the innovations of the Iiij/tiim A NATIVE CHICFTAIN HOLDING HIS COURT. later centuries. Combined in the most wonderful manner are the vices incidental to humanity, yet strange to say, by codes of their own, with which the white man has had nothing whatever to do, they have established beneficial regulations, the wisdom of which will be at once admitted by the cultivated observer. 18 In the first place it is necessary to rectify a curiously wrong impression which has got abroad with respect to the aborigines of \atal, if they may be so called. The impression alluded to is that these natives were the original lords of the soil, and that the whites are interlopers, who, b\- their aggressiveness and land hun- ger, are pre}-ing upon the birthright of the unsophisti- cated savage. The fact is, that when the whites first a rived on the scene and e5:ablishcd themselves, the natives were broken, defeated, ind power- less to further oppose the might of the all conquering Zulus, whose spears had reaped a rich harvest c>! blood over the now fertile and peaceful hills of Natal. Driven from their homes, unable to plant or reap, the\- were forced to take refuge in the bush, and it is asserted that on occasions, had recourse to cannibalism in order to keep life in their miserable, war-ridden bodies. Under the fostering care of the colonists, and protected by treaties made between them and the Zulus, these scattered remnants of a people were gradually formed into tribes. Under the same unwavering care, they have developed and had their numbers augmented by refugees from adjacent states, until they stand at the present time a splendid stalwart nation, loyal to England and to their benefactors, the colonists, law-abiding, and in almost every respect desirable. The exception is, that life comes so easy to them, their wants being few and simple, that they scarcely need to toil for their livelihood. The soil yhuugh 19 of the districts of tlie Colony where they are located is rich. Their clothing consists of the very scantiest garments or skins. They pay a trifling hut tax of fourteen shillings a year only, and can be truly described as a people without care. The annual amount paid hy them to the Government, in taxes under the above heading, is ^^79,489 lys. 5om 1886 to the present time, a new epoch may be said to have commenced, as the following lists will show : — REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE from 1859 to JUNE 30, 1894. REVENUE. EXPENDITURE. £ •'• d. £ S. d. 1859 . 50,082 19 4 1859 .. 47,128 9 2 i860 . 77,480 8 2 i860 .. 73,002 8 10 I86I 107,465 6 9 1861 .. 113,460 3 9 1862 . 98,086 6 3 1862 .. 83,886 2 6 1863 . 119,042 5 1863 .. 94,033 16 10 1864 . 151,049 9 10 1864 .. 137,979 16 II 1865 . 118,146 15 4 1865 .. 160,153 8 10 1866 . 94,884 13 9 1866 .. 126,067 18 7 1867 96,780 18 II 1867 .. 118,328 13 3 1868 . 95,762 I 11 1868 .. 117,255 u 5 1869 111,231 19 7 1869 .. 108,406 10 4 1870 . 126,293 3 1870 .. 117,009 16 8 I87I 125,628 6 6 1871 118,657 1 3 1872 . 180,498 12 7 1872 .. 132,978 3 5 1873 •• 207,392 I 9 1873 •• 173,277 15 II 1874 •• 247,259 5 10 1874 •• 306,364 14 1875 •• 260,271 8 1 1875 ... 307,025 14 2 1876 .. 265,551 15 4 1876 ... 261,933 17 4 1877 .. 272,473 12 10 1877 ... 283,823 12 8 1878 .. 369,383 16 10 1878 ... ... ^387,067 13 I 1879 •• 473,478 I 6 1879 ... 491,909 19 6 1880 .. 582,715 I 1880 ... 477,100 15 5 I88I 439,583 2 I 1881 ... 394,854 6 1 1882 .. 657,737 13 9 1882 ... 659,030 19 3 1883 .. 620,496 10 8 1883 ... 697,264 10 3 1884 .. 610,936 18 9 1884 ... 707,527 18 3 1885 .. 662,915 4 1885 ... 774,158 19 1886 .. 600,177 '7 1886 ... 717,414 12 10 1887 .. 924,840 13 4 1887 ... 689,572 17 1888 .. 990,614 1888 ... 781,471 13 1889-90.. ... 1,507,788 9 6 1889-90... ... 1,444,963 18 3 1890-91 .. ... 1,318,769 1 1890-91 ... ... 1,393,895 13 2 1891-92 .. ••• 1,392,455 5 5 1891-92 ... ... 1,280,964 15 8 1892-93.. 1,069,678 6 2 1892-93... ... 1,099,858 7 7 1893-94.. 1,011,116 18 5 1893-94... ... 1,082,373 I 8 * Plus ^47,564 I3-^"- 6(/ . under Public Works Loan for 187S. 34 ACCOUNT OF SHIPPING AND TRADE OF THE COLONY, FROM 1883 TO 30TH JUNE, 1893. Years. Shipping in tons. Value of Imports. Customs Revenue. Value Inwards. Outwards. of Exports. 1883 232,097 231,892 ^1,751,107 ;^22I,044 ^731,809 1884 210,181 212,604 1,675,850 161,476 831,747 1885 195,260 I93>i43 1,518,557 179,907 957,918 1886 196,651 196,183 1,331,115 140,401 960,290 1887 235-485 231,306 2,263,920 231,411 1,056,959 1888 364,820 362,237 2,890,468 290,084 1,417,871 1889 439.9^0 431,216 4,527,015 369,461 1,656,318 1890-91 498,310 494,142 3,620,809 273,028 1,218,413 1891-92 565,424 563,176 3,690,734 300,103 1,377,085 1892-93 599>272 593,430 2,456,562 215,631 1,370,335 1893-94 647,409 654,648 2,171,322 190,542 1,184,650 The imports for 1894 were ^2,316,596, much of this being Commerce, for adjacent states. The exports totalled iJ^i, 197,611, of which ;^435,566 were non-colonial, ^^^222,750 being the value of raw gold. Colonial exports to the value of ;i^762,045 make up the balance. These latter figures, however, do not fully represent the total export of Colonial manufactures, as no Blue Book returns are made of articles of local production exported to the interior states. Some idea of the voluine of this trade may be obtained from the fact that during the last six months of 1894, 6,624,333 lbs. of Natal sugar, valued at ^^38,580, are recorded on the Transvaal Customs lists as having passed through. Taking this amount as a basis, the sum of £"/"/, \6o is the total value of one year's overbcrg export trade in this article alone. Tea, tanned leather, fruit and vegetables, wood, distilled spirits, and many minor productions also figure largel}- on the returns. It was not possible to obtain within a reasonable time detailed statistics from the Orange Free State, Zululand, and 35 Pondoland, but it may safely be assumed that the total amount of the interior export trade, if added to the sum already men- tioned for Colonial exports, would very materially augment it. Indus- Passing from this phase of the subject to that of manu- "^^' factures, mines, etc.. Natal, considering her area and population, stands fairly well. There are in the Colony thirty-nine sugar mills, eleven distilleries, sixty-four grist mills, sixteen saw mills, fifteen aerated water factories, nineteen wagon-making establishments, two wood turning machines, fifteen brick works, one brewery, one arrowroot mill, three tanneries, five preserve factories, two wattle-bark cutting machines, four tea factories, one cotton machine, three bone-crushing machines, one woollen factor}', one rice mill, two iron foundries, four gold mines, twelve coal mines, two lime works, one marble quarry, three wool washing mills, two potteries and tile factories, and one ham and bacon curing factory. Produc- Of productions there is a wide range, as will be shown in °"^' the descriptive sections of this work. This subject alone would be sufficient to warrant the compilation of a volume to itself. In dealing with it, it is necessary to bear in mind that the Colony stands but on the threshold of her store-house. The superficial thinker and writer is too apt to judge of the possibilities of the country's future, by its past. This is so manifestly wrong as to require but little comment. Neverthe- less, before approaching a theme which is as interesting as vital, it is necessary to point out the heavy disabilities which have had either to be removed or lived down before the resources of the land could be grasped and utilised com- mercially. In the introduction it has been stated that almost until the present day savage states on the frontiers of the Colony have stagnated in a great measure the efforts of those by whose toil market and other centres might have been created. For purposes of mutual protection the bulk of the farmers clustered round the two main towns, while wide stretches of fertile outlying lands lay fallow. With the limited local consumption and extensive importing facilities, manufac- tories of raw local material were heavily handicapped. The few who had enterprise sufficient were for the most part not only inexperienced, but devoid of capital. The result was what might have been expected. One by one, industries were taken up and abandoned from no fault of the country, the productions or the people. Coffee, arrowroot, eucalyptus oil, tanning, and many other industries were for a time shelved, to be recommenced later on, under more favourable auspices. To-day some of these abandoned industries are in full swing, but with what a difference ! Skilled labour, efficient machinery, increased purchasing power, a peaceably settled country, and a wider field of operations, combined with rapid means of com- munication provided by the railway system, have placed success within the grasp of those who have sufficient energy to attain it. The total amount of land under tillage in the Colony of Natal is somewhat difficult to estimate. As near as can be ascertained, 320,000 acres are more or less productive. This, of course, is exclusive of land used for grazing and wool pro- ducing purposes. Of this total area the whites cultivate, in a close and systematic manner, 81,274 acres, while the natives are roughly estimated to till, in a desultory and spasmodic fashion, about 238,726 acres, the most of which is under maize and Kafir corn. Sugar cane ranks ne.xt as a leading crop, 36,000 acres being approximately the amount under it. The total average yield from this, taking all classes of crops into consideration, is one and a quarter tons per acre, approximately. This, with a value of ;^I5 per ton, is equal to an annual sum of ^^67 5,000. The price, of course, fluctuates, but the above may be taken as a fair average. Comparatively few people are aware of the past and present progress of the Natal sugar industry. In order that the Colony may become possessed of some authentic information on the subject, a reliable authority has been consulted, and the following valuable statistics obtained. The figures given are up to the end of 1893, and have been carefully compiled. They are deserving of a close study on the part of those interested in the development of local industry. Zl EXPORT OF SUGAR /;]' Annual ani S/iA FROM THE COLONY OF NATAL. ) ()iriN(.)UKNNIAI, RkTURNS. Year. Quantit )■ in Tons. Declared \'aluc. A\eiage \alue per Ton. (Jan. to Dec.) Annual. Quinquennial Annual. Quinquennial Annual. Quinquennial 1854 Cwts. 2 £ 2 ^20 5 •3 19 29 4 7 6 227 83 43 18 2 -^38 12 4 7 Tons 40 (?)?, 08 50 4 8 113 165 3,860 8,006 6,372 34 3 2 9 289 27 14 i860 1,218 32,005 26 5 6 I 764 19,415 25 8 2 -/24 3 10 2 845 21,178 25 I 3 3 1,297 4,413 26,153 106,757 20 3 3 4 4,158 94,208 22 13 I 5 3,709 76,356 20 1 1 8 6 3-253 66, 1 g I 20 7 - .£20 1 1 9 7 3-553 70,948 19 19 4 8 4,663 7,476 •9,336 90,387 398,090 19 7 8 9 145,711 19 9 9 1870 5,328 111,023 20 16 9 I 8,741 180.496 20 13 -^21 I 9 7,096 153,855 21 13 7 3 7,065 35,706 161,840 752,925 22 18 I 4 6,833 159,078 23 5 7 5 7,775 169,815 21 16 10 6 7,574 135,201 17 17 -/20 8 7 9,108 184,788 20 5 9 8 7,428 38,718 141,077 789,959 18 19 II 18 18 5 ' 9 3,010 56,958 1880 1 1,706 215,191 18 7 8 I 8,589 172,237 20 I 1 -Z19 5 • 3 2 4,140 84,668 20 9 3 6,356 11,785 33,801 122,084 651,138 19 4 1 15 14 2 4 185,131 5 11,290 144,064 12 15 2 6 7,660 100,500 13 2 5 -£13 10 7 7 8,882 114,079 12 16 10 8 5,887 45,504 71,912 615,686 12 4 3 9 6,985 93,990 13 9 I 1S90 1,472 18,491 12 1 1 2 I 1,842 23, 1 56 12 1 1 5 ■^13 6 6 2 9,721 1 19,461 12 5 9 3 6,321 26,341 95,943 351,041 15 3 6 T ons 203,984 ^3,671,968 = pr. ton IxZ 0% 38 TOTAL PRODUCTION TO END OF 1893. Tons. £ Exports by sea, as shown by above table ... 203,984 3,671,968 One-third more, for Natal and overberg con- sumption 67,994 1,223,989 Total estimated production to end of 1893 271,978 4,895,957 Rum exported ... gallons 1,275,488 59,772 Rum on which excise paid ... ... ,, 1,678,180 83,909 Molasses cwt. 33,132 6,698 Total estimated value 5, 046,336 Excise duty received on Rum, in the period ... 377, 59^ Grand total of money value ... ... ;^5,423,926 A few explanatorx- notes may be added with respect to the above table of export.s of .sugar by sea. The annual figures shown do not, of course, represent quantities of successive annual crops. The crushing season usually begins about Jul>% and ends about January ; .so that export returns for the last half of one year and the first half of the follovving one would more nearly approximate the quantity of each crop, allowance being added for local and overberg consumption. The return, however, taken as a whole, gives, in a condensed form, as nearly as possible, a correct idea of the progress of the industry from its com- mencement up to the end of last year. Abnormall)- low figures, such as those for 1879, 1882, and 1890. indicate short crops and dry years, but those for 1891 simply mean that export overberg greatly exceeded that " over .sea." The estimate added of one-third to the quantity exported by sea, as representing the Natal and Overberg trade, is a low one. For some years the actual proportion has been much higher, but one-third is regarded b}- our authorit}' as representing a fair average for the period under review. The chief lesson to be learnt from the above tables is that since its commencement the industr}- has produced nearl)- 300,000 tons of sugar, representing a monetar)- \alue of over ^"5,400,000. 39 1^2 THK 1893-94 CROP. The actual total output of our sut^ar factories, crop by crop, in the absence of official means of ascertaining it, can only be arrived at b\- those well informed on the subject. The crop, i8- rt ^ rt W ei > 3 03 O 4-1 rt ;^. ^ 4. o J2 U^ v.- o 't S on W ■Ti H ii: < ii 1) H :i* 3 c/i W z'. x; > o ID H n < P^ iT CO < 3 vo ^ ■i-i CO S -0 "^ O OJ u u J/ n ^ W > -r. P^ CO J wi ■^ vO -r \r\ - o ro O o m O - 1/1 r^ n t^ n lo ro _ ir\ -f -1- c^ o — 00 vC rO ri _ o — CO ro -t r^ ^rf ■^ "-■ r^ 00 I\ lo O ••o rn t^ o 00 — 11 cc (y- -r CO_^ -t- lO "■O "■O -r ir% Kr\ vq_ rr rT -f -f -f -f -r -^ oj 3 ■^' — o vO n 00 -t sO t^ tr\ lo 0^ ro t^ '•5 _ o o _ ^o ro t^ -1- O o -r to o S Q. X »/-» ^m f^ CO ir, r^ »r^ tr\ ro ri ro — o U 8 r^ n o CO — O to CO t^ lo O o ■^ ^O^ nO t^ r^ t^ o I^ O r'^i -r T ro rP rl ri n rO ro '•'=) rO -f -r lo O o 3 ^r t^ -^ _ ro vO r^. '^ "^ ro o 00 r» "" — — c 1) ^ fO 1/^ _ ri O O ri _ o o ly-t u as i^^ r-l I/-1 li^ 00 O r^ >o -1- M. vO vO o ^ -M -1- H &3 oo t^ o CO ^ tr% yr\ 00 CO^ vO^ CO ir% -t n q; — ir% 00 o ■* o ro ro ro -1- -r \r\ ^o" f~^ CO CO oo' S — C3 >S ir% 'i- ■-. 00 - 00 a^ - - in ro t^ Tf 0) -i- t^ O o \j\ r^ o m ro C^ -1- t » 15 vy. ir\ ro r^ -r lo o o- O^ o O ir, ON 0-. :7^ >— • -1- ri O o^ cc o o ro 00 Vi MD vO O -t CO -t ^o o r^ r^ 1/1 -t CO ro rf - - O^ 00 vO ro M M r» cs M 00 O^ ri ro -r vC vO r^ 1^ r^ tv. r^ 00 00 00 00 CO OO oo — — — — — — — J_' O ^' O ^' ^ ^ fl i-T CO :S -^ u t) O SJ r^ ^ 4_, j: 4-> in in U1 lf> ryi tn t/i 1 o N« ta- »« <»• o M- o »- ro rO m CO ro CO fo r-l <-0 rO ro rO ro be c -c J; j; ^ j; ;; ;; p ;: ^ ;: ;^ ;; c I AC RAM. ilMiimi jjilh!ili| " ■"■,[,■, ?sz^ I I i ill 1 I i h < I I [1. N ' L I li t^ .gig?!. Sir Hcnr\- Bulwcr, then Lieutenant-Governor of Natal, sixteen jears later, that is to sa\-, on New Year's Day, i(S76, turned the first sod of the Natal (iovernment system of Railways. One year later the line was taken over by the Government, at a valuation. The sum paid for the Assets of the Compan\' as the\' stood was iJ"40,000 ; ftjur miles of line having been laid in the interval from Durban to Umgeni. The very early history of the first Railway enterprise in Natal would form an interesting theme for special treatment. In 1868, Mr. Mc Arthur retired from the inanagemcnt of the line, and was succeeded by a Mr. Andrede, who combined in him.self the offices of General Manager, Accountant, Secretary, and Debt Collector. A prominent official, now in the service of Government, was at that time Assistant Station Master at Umgeni. In his possession are many curious and interesting letters, ainongst them some from the then General Manager, Mr. Andrede, apologising for not being able to pa}- salaries in full ; others enclosing a sum on account of salary, together with the interesting information that " the General Manager was going out collecting debts next week, and would forward the balance as soon as it came in." Other officials, instead of money payments, obtained orders from the Head Office on local grocers and such like, for "goods on account, per Railwa)- contra." Another comical episode is on record, to the effect that the two little engines then on the line being out of gear at the same time, extra native labour was applied for by the General Manager, in order to push the trains by hand from the Point to Durban. In 1877, however, new rolling stock was added, order and business promptitude established, and the line began to assume proper form. The revenue earned b}' the Railways during the years 1885-90 inclusive, was as follows: — Averatre Mileage oi>en ,, ^'^''"■- L Traffic. Keve.uie. 1885 ... 116 ... i;i35,542 1886 ... 195 ... «4''^.999 1887 ... 217^ ... 257,877 1 888 ... 220^ ... 347.982 1889 ... 242" ... 535.265 1890 ... 282 ... 606,713 45 This, Compared w illi iIk- tabic inserted in a previous pa^f^e, sufficiently illustrates the trade increase of the Colony iip to that period. As inij^ht be expected in a countrx^ possessing the ph)'sical fcatiwes of Xatal, the gradients and curves on the line arc cxceptionall\' se\cre. A large proportion of the mileage is over gradients frcmi i in 30 to i in 35, while many of the curves are from 300 to 350 feet radius. For considerably over fort}' miles, there are grades under i in 60, anrl curves of less than 450 feet radius. To the ordinary reader, these figures will probably conxey little or no idea of the difficulties of the road. It has, however, been laid down as an axiom by one of the greatest living English Railway experts, that " the steepest gradient a railway should have, is the nearest to a dead level," and it takes ver)- little consideration to show how far removed from a dead level, are gradients of i in 3O) or even i in 60. In his excellent book, "The Working and Management of an English Railwa}'," Mr. George Findlay, the General Manager of the L. & N. W. Raihva}', states that the steepest gradients on that line range from i in 432 between London and Crewe, i in 225 between Crewe and Carlisle on the main trunk line, to i in 99 on the Central Wales line, I in 44 on the Merth\-r, Tredegar," and Abergavenny line. The average speed on the two first-named is 48^ miles per hour, while on the latter it is 22 miles per hour. The effect of sharp cur\es and steep gradients upon the working of a railwa\% can thus be seen at a glance, as the}' add to the train resistance. The main trunk line of Natal reaches an altitude of 3,054 feet above sea level at a point fifty-eight miles distant from Durban. After falling 1,000 feet in its further progress to Maritzburg, it, twelve miles beyond the city, attains a height of 3,700 feet ; at a point 134 miles from Durban, it has reached an altitude of 5,152 feet, but at Lad}"smith, 189^ miles from the port, the altitude has decreased to 3,284 feet. The summit of the Biggarsbcrg chain is crossed at a point 233 miles from the port, where an altitude of 4,303 feet is attained ; and when the terminus at Charlestow n is reached, after crossing the slope of the Drakensberg Mountains, the 46 train has gained a higher eminence than ever, the altitude being 5,383 feet. The Orange Free State branch of the Hne, after leaving Lad^'smith, ascends by steep gradients the whole of its course in Natal territory, and when it reaches the border of the Free State, on the summit of the more easterly point of the Drakensberg range, it is, about 5,500 feet above the sea. At a cost .of about six millions, the Colon}' possesses a fully equipped line, including t\vent\'-threc miles in the Orange Free State, which has not only developed the resources of the country to which it belongs, but has opened up the great trade highways of the interior, and revolutionised the whole system of mercantile transactions. Despite the Herculean difficulties in connection with the engineering and construction departments of the Xatal Railways, it is satisfactor\', while reviewing their record, to be able to state, that in all the pressure of busy times, when the traffic has even been unexpectedly and suddenly trebled, no blockage worthy of the name has ever occurred for any lengthy period, and but few accidents of .a serious description h^ve ever taken place. At the time of writing, there are in the Colony 3765 miles of rail, as" follows : — Point to Charlestown ... ... .... ... 306 Ladysmith to Van Reenen's ... ... ... 36^ Glencoe Junction to Dundee and Coalfields ... 7^ Durban to Verulam ... ... ... ... 19I South Coast Junction to Isipingo .... ... 6f 3/61- The gross receipts of the line comi^are fa\'ourabh' with those of other s\-stems, and up to 1891 showed a stead}- increase. The succeeding decrease was due to depression on the Rand Gold P^ields and to Cape competition. The working cost of the line is about 4s. loUl. per train mile. .After pa}-ing interest on capital, and defraying all working expenses, the Railwa}', in 1891, contributed X 19, 144 to general re\-enue. Within recent times rolling stock on the most approxcd modern principles has been added. In addition to powerful bogey engines, passenger cars, combining stabilit}' and comfort, have largely replaced the simpler structures of the past. Saloon carriages, luxuriously upholstered, with lavatory attachments, are available for first-class passengers, while the second-class compartments are in every respect up to modern standard. Third-class carriages, in a country possessing a large coloured population, are not, as a rule, used by Europeans, but even here, .scrupulous attention is paid to comfort and cleanliness. The traveller, on this line, will find that not only is it the nearest and best route to the (iold Fields, but by it he may attain his destination in complete .safety, and without many of the discomforts so bitterly complained of on Colonial Railways ; for instance, in connection with baggage arrange- ments, he will find that instead of pert and careless treatment, his requirements will be courteously attended to, and mi.ssing articles assiduousl}' accounted for. Refreshment rooms are provided at convenient and regular intervals. At these places well-spread tables are prepared for the arrival of every passenger train, and sufficient time is allowed to partake of a meal. The menu, as a rule, is equal to that of the hotels in the towns, and the attendance is fairly good. All other con- veniences for the travelling public are made at the main stations, and the traveller must be captious indeed, who, remembering that he is travelling in Africa, will quarrel with arrangements so admirably calculated to dispel the inconveniences incidental to all journeys, in whatsoever land they may be undertaken. Under the strict management and rigid discipline now prexailing, the subordinate officials spare no pains in the execution of their duties, and from start to finish, all along the route, civility and respect are the order. In another portion of this work, tables of fares are given, and should further information be required, it has onl)- to be asked for to be obtained. 48 A OF B ^ES. Lxi Miscellaneous I i Cnars-es. j rr i r, 8. '•2n(] T()< aud Telegraph. 370 s. d. I £ s. d. Total. £ S. d. 17 8 l^M 1 lj97 8G1 12 9 137,079 1 4 1 16 8 l-jl9 5 3 1 1^2 E) 7 7 1^8 1. 2 6 2^9 6 16 5 I 2|^^ I 17 7 2^^ ^k 5 8 fe I 104 14 3 474 10 9 500 11 3 1,117 3 4 1,415 16 1,970 14 5 142,591 14 5 137,702 10 11 173,931 16 4 199,363 18 4 300,247 18 1 KOLLING STOCK. 4,066 4 3 416,396 7 3 4,331 12 1 372,023 12 6 29 36 37 36 44 52 71 73 o 103 1^. "2 14 5 3,704 16 1 I 365,704 9 11 3,405 3 9 273,868 18 2 2,815 9 6 294,062 18 76 91 60 65 66 70 72 85 76 125 118 113 133 289 335 372 402 483 706 21 30 27 41 47 84 783 107 1153 1181 1225 1295 105 106 84 138 NATAL GOVEnNMENT RAILWAYS. tUMHAIIV TABLK IMOWIMO LCMOTM OF LINK. rAStENOEM AMD C< WOIKIHO IXPEHUm. CTC. rO« TMB TBAB* ■•• TO iHt. lltCLUtlVB. & &€ax4»^%J^:&-5.fj'i^'f?»rC-^ SECTION VI. GEOLOGY, FORESTS, FLORA, ANL\LVLS, ETC. AS no systematic geological survey has been carried out (ieoiogy. in the Colony, it is somewhat difficult to treat the subject with any great degree of detail. From time to time, Dr. Sutherland has published interesting and valuable papers, ^RANITC BLOCH.S while others, drawing their information from casual journeys within the frontiers of the Colony, have contributed further details more or less of value. Recent developments, resulting in the opening up of the 49 less known parts of the country, have thrown considerable light on the coal, lime, and gold formations. These and other authorities, combined with the author's own observations, which have been of a widespread character, have enabled him to compile the following facts. As is commonly the case in mountainous lands, the main backbone of the rocky contour — the frame which determines and marks out the plan and articulation of the physical geography — is formed of igneous or hypogene rocks, in the several conditions commonly known as granite, gneiss, mica- schist, clay-slate, and metamorphic limestone. The granite line of Natal presents itself in a form which immediately secures the notice of the ordinary observer, on the main line of railwa\' between Durban and the capital. Huge grey blocks, many hundreds of tons in weight, crop out at the mountain sides of Inchanga. These Titanic masses are all of crystalline granite, and can be traced intermittently through the Inanda location in a north-easterly direction, to the valley of the Tugela, which, in the form of a great belt, it crosses at about seventy miles from the sea. In the opposite direction it enters the ocean considerably south of the Umpambanyoni, while indications of it can be found along the coast in Alfred County, where, close by the sea, it appears in the form of a broad platform, upon which the waves have sculptured a succession of jagged walls, steps and pyramids. The great axis of granite which passes obliquely throughout the entire breadth of Natal, is flanked on either side by metamorphic rocks, which have been secondarily influenced by great heat. These may be described as consisting of mica slate, clay-slate, and crystalline limestone. Near the Umzim- kulu, as will be shown elsew^here, at a distance of about eight miles from the sea, there lies upon the southern slope of the granite belt a vast mass of white, highly crystalline marble. It is for the most part of a pure tint, but sometimes is tinged with a green, pink, or yellowish colour. There is no distinct stratifi- cation, it being separated into large masses by laminae of gneiss and granite, which contain a considerable percentage of quartz. It is perfectly clear that the great central axis of granite 50 has been upheaved, subsequent to the deposit of the neigh- bouring beds of rocks, many of which are broken, tilted up by it, and, when in its immediate proximity, changed in their mineral character. The sandstones of Natal occur mainly in thick lujrizontal beds, alternating with shale of various descriptions. They are to be found up to the highest part of the sub-terrace of the Berg, i.e., about 7,000 feet above the sea, and on the coast to the north of the granite belt. The flat-topped mountains and hills, which form such familiar features in the scenery of KRANTZ KLOOF FORMATIONS. Natal, are composed of vast horizontal layers of this stone, reared up sometimes on sloping buttresses, and looking, as Mr. Henry ]5rooks says, " like broken slabs of the old pavement that was shattered by the earthquake throes on the upheaval of the granite." The rivers of the coast, while not infrequcnth' flowing through the stratified rocks to the granite beneath, often pass 51 between picturesque cliff's of reddish sandstone, some of which most probably belong to the Devonian and Silurian systems, and some to the younger age of the new red sandstone. Others, again, are associated with alternating layers of gritty sandstone, which unquestionably is of the carboniferous age. Dykes of greenstone-trap constantly pierce the sandstone formations, while " faults " are frequent. Coal occurs in Natal amongst the carboniferous sandstones in various places, and, fortunately for the Colon)', is abundant. Mr. Etheridge, an experienced geologist, considers that the most abundant form of vegetable impression found upon the sandstones associated with the Natal coal deposits, belongs LE MOUNTA to a species of Glcssoptcns, apparently identical with the Glossoptcris Broivniamx which is common in the coal deposits of India; and that certain other leaves, seed-cases, and stems, which are found with the impression of the Glossoptcris, are those of a species of Dictyoptcyis and PJiyllotheca, which are 52 characteristic of those deposits. If this is the case, it clearly indicates that Natal coal bclon<^s to the mesozoic system of modern aijc, which is familiarly represented in lui^land by the oolitic and cretaceous i^roup of rocks, and which is known as the Jurassic system on the continent. Next in order, as regards frequency of occurrence, is greenstone ami trap in one or other of its protean forms. The fclstoncs, greenstones, and granite arc continually found in all countries, closely associated, and occasionally pass into each other in the same continuous mineral mass. At the Umgeni Falls, near Howick, three distinct beds of trap rock occur, separated by intervening layers of carbonaceous sand- stone and shale. Some little distance to the south of the Umzimkulu River, there is a miniature " Giants' Causeway," in the shape of a platform of columnar basalt extending into the breakers of the sea. Amygdaloid porphyries frequently occur in the neighbourhood of the intrusion of trap dykes. Agates of great beauty and six-sided prisms of rock crystal are carried down by the rivers from the edges of trap veins exposed in the higher mountains. It has been found that the best soil in the Colony is located in those places where the stratified rocks are most broken through by the intrusive eruption of trap. Perhaps the most interesting rock formation in Natal is one which has been closely studied b)' Dr. Sutherland. It is known as the boulder clay by some, and by others as claystone l)orphyry. The bed consists of a bluish-grey, hardened, argillaceous or cla\' mass, containing imbedded fragments of greenstone, cla}'-slate, quartz, graphite, and granite. The.se are of varj'ing size, from sand grains to blocks measuring six feet across. The fracture of the rock is not conchoidal, and there is manifest in its substance, a disposition to wavy stratification. The thickness of the beds varies considerabh' from place to place. In some situations it is 1,200 feet through. As a rule it rests upon old sandstones, which in turn arc based on granite. Upwards it passes first into newer shales, and through them into the sandstones and shales which are as.sociated with the coal deposits. The transition is 53 E gradual, and shows no distinct lines of demarcation. This formation flanks the long range of sandstone hills which run from the Tugela River, about six miles from the sea, through the lierea Range to the mouth of the Umbilo. It also crops out near Maritzburg, stretching awa}- through the Umgeni and Umvoti Rivers to the Tugela, between Greytown and the Biggarsberg, and in the opposite direction across the Umkomaas to the southern frontier of the Colony. It trends away then, across the St. John's River to the Cape Colony, where it has been closel}- studied by Mr. Bain. SCENE IN NATAL. Boulder clays of this class occur in various countries. The one which has had most attention devoted to it is located in Caernarvonshire. Professor Ramsay considers that there is only one known agency which is adequate to the production of all the circumstances met with in this formation. He holds that the transport to long distances of vast blocks of rock, the scoring of the subjacent surfaces of sandstone, and the 54 simultaneous deposition of minute sand grains and large boulders in the same matrix, all indicate that ice is the only physical agent that can be rational 1\- credited with the creation of these cla\'s. The limestones are much more sparingly represented in Natal than these sandstones. In the Tugela Valley there are deposits of nodular limestone. The presence of crystalline metamorphic marble has already been mentioned. The beds which solely repre.sent the cretaceous sv'stem occur on the southern coasts of Natal, and are of considerable geological interest. In places, the beach is almost entircK- composed of fusiform shells, which are a species of Terebra, cemented together into a solid mass, amongst which are tusks and bones of vertebrate animals, and trunks of large trees. A wide field of stud}' here lies open to those who ha\e the skill and time to devote to it, and pages might easily be filled with observation.s, each one of which would be of scientific value. Passing on to the subject of minerals, it is now definitely ascertained that almost unlimited quantities of iron ore occur in the Colony, in the form of beds and concretions of clay-iron, also in that of masses of haematite. The city of Pietermaritzburg has been built on irregular deposits of the metal. The ores are in some instances so rich that the natives have worked them into metal for spear heads, with the rudest appliances imaginable. Tests of the ore have proved it to contain g'OQ per cent, of silicate of iron, I3'40 per cent, of silicate of alumina, 7674 per cent, of oxide of iron f equal to 5372 per cent, of metallic iron), 0*52 per cent, of sulphur, and a trace of magnesia. At a point near Fort Buckingham in Umvoti County, one entire mountain appears to be composed of masses of specular and magnetic iron ore mingled together. Deposits of ores of copper, some of which contain traces of gold, occur frequently. As yet but little has been done towards ascertaining their value. Gold and silver, in quartz and other forms, are now being tested in that interesting geological locality so frequently cited —the Tugela Valley. Here a curious and unique lode is attracting attention. It consists of ore containing about 55 E2 40 per cent, of arsenical p\'rite.s, and assays v'ariousl}- from a few i^rains to several ounces of gold to the ton. Should the works now proccedin<^ in this place result favourably, Natal will find within her frontiers greater sources of wealth than were ever imagined. The fact of the deposits being of a *f^W Ferneyhottsh refractory description will not militate against their value, since the establishment of successful chemical processes for the recovery of gold. The value of these latter has been amply demonstrated on the Witwatersrand Fields. Much of the foregoing, as stated in the opening of the Section, is the result of the writer's personal observations, but extensive use has been made of an interesting and authentic work on Natal from the pen of Mr. Henry Brooks.* This work is undoubtedly a valuable one, and its perusal is strongly recommended. Forests. The heavy timber forests of Natal are estimated at 165,900 * Published bv L. Ree\e & Co. , London. 56 acres, and Thonibush and low forests at 1,841,000 acres. The high timber forests arc for the (greater part situated aloni^ the Drakensberf^ Kani^e of Mountains, mostl\- on the southern slopes, at an elevation of 3,500 to 6,000 feet, where the mean annual temperature ranges from 52° to 59". The upright Yellow-wood (Podocarpus Thunbergii) here attains to its greatest size, as do also man\' other of the more \aluablc timber trees, including Kamdeboo Stinkwood (Ccltis Kraussinna), Wild Chestnut (Calodendron Capensis), Natal Mahogany ( Kiggelaria Africana), White Iron wood (Toddalia lanceolta), White Pear (Apodytes dimidiata), Rogabog (Xylosma monospora ), and Sneezewood (Ptcroxy/on utile). The low forests are located principally along the coast, and in the midland districts. Thornbush, which consists chiefly of various s[iccies of Mimosere — Acacia Natalitia and . /. K raussiana being the most common — is spread over very wide areas, mostl\' in the basins of the Tugela and the Umkomaas, at altitudes of 3,500 and 1,000 feet, below which it intermingles with the coast forests. In this region the mean annual temperature ranges froni 59^" to (yj"^ . The coast forest predominates below 1,000 feet, where the climate becomes sub-tropical, and the mean annual temperature ranges from 6"] to 71". It is composed of a great variety of low trees, the a\erage height varying from 30 to 60 feet, amongst which the W'aterboom (Eugenia caudata) and the Flatcrown (Albiasia fastigiata ) are characteristic species. The wood of many of the Natal timber trees is of great value, and is used largely in house-building, wagon, coach building, and for furniture. The supply, however, of many of these woods is rapidly decreasing, and it is a question very serious!)' occupying the minds of many colonists, that instead of propagating and planting Australian and other exotic trees of quick growth, more attention should not be bestowed on the conservation and planting of trees indigenous to the climate and soil of the countr\'. The beaut}' and varict\- of the Xatal forests and woodland glades are not, however, limited to the stately grandeur of its timber trees, for among the luxuriant undergrowth of fern, palm, and shrub, innumerable objects of interest and delight are found. 57 Festoons of lovcl>- climbing plants suspend themselves from tree to tree, while attached to the boughs and trunks of trees are curious parasitical plants, and mosses. The great faniil\' of Orchideai is largely represented ; no less than 150 species, comprising upwards of twenty-five different genera, are already known to exist in the Colon)-. Of epiphy- tical Orchids, one of the finest species found in the country is the Anscllia Africatia gigiDitca, which bears long spikes of pale yellow flcnvcrs barred and spotted with red. Another lovely Orchid, Mystacidiiiiii filicor)u\ bears beautiful racemes of a dozen or more pure white and sweetly scented flowers, each of which has a long spur. Several pretty species of Angraicum are common in the Natal bush, notably A. arcuatiaii and A. bicandatn))i. The terrestrial Orchids arc, however, even more numerous and widel}- distributed than the epiphytes. The principal genera represented are the Eulophia, Disa, Disperis, Satyrium, Habenaria, Stenoglottis, Polystachia, and Lis.sochilus. The latter is nearly allied to the Eulophia, from which genera it is distinguished by the great disparit}' between sepals and petals. L. Krebsii is a ver\' handsome species, bearing tall racemes of twent\' to thirty flowers with brownish edges, the sepals being green with dull purple blotches, and petals of pale golden }'ello\v. L. speciosiis is another show)' and free flowering species, with large and beautiful spikes of yellow, butterfl\--likc flowers. In stony places on hill sides, the great-horned Orchid (Disa Diegaceras) is occasionall)' met with. It bears a spike of large flowers on a stout stem two feet or more in height ; in colour they are white, marked inside with pale purple. Disa polygonoides is common in the midlands, growing in moist places beside streams, and bears orange-scarlet flowers, .sometimes as many as forty or fifty on a spike. Some of the Satyriums and Eulophias are ver)- beautiful, as is also the Stawglottis fivibriata, a free- flowering species, bearing pretty pink flowers on a slender stem. The Imantoph)-llums, or Clivias, as they are now called, are a grand displav' in themselves, as seen in their native habitat 58 in the Natal bush, in the early spring months. Tlic\- bear immense umbels of twenty to thirty blossoms of a bright red or scarlet colour. Belonging to the same order Amaryllideae are several species of lliemaiilhus — //. KathcrinciE, deep red; H. albomaculatiis, white |)crianlh and prettily spotted leaves ; and H. Nataloisis. This is a handsome species, distinguisherl b\- the beautiful coloureJ and dotted sheathing scales at the base of the plant. b\- the pale green flowers, the orange-coloured stamens and styles, and by the nearh- uniform bracts of the involucre, of a rich ferruginous purple, shorter than the flowers. Brnnsvigea Josephinece is another beautiful plant of the same order, bearing large umbels of bright scarlet flowers. Several species of Begonias are very commfin, growing in the fissures of rocks. B. Suther/aiich'i is one of the {)rettiest. The foliage and stems are very ornamental, the latter being purplish red and the leaves bright green, with red nerves and serrated. The flowers are orange red, although some varieties of this species are much darker in colour. The stems of this plant are used b}' colonists 59 in the same manner as rhubarb, and an excellent jam is also made from this plant. Ju-g-oiiia Gcraiiioides is an exceedingly prett}' tuberous-rooted species of dwarf and free-flowering habit, with flowers of purest white. One of the i)rettiest genus of plants found in the woodland shade, beside streams, and on damp rocks, is the Streptocarpus. Most of the Natal species have blue or cream\^ white flowers, and a few are prettily striped and spotted. Some species have flowers as large as those of a Gesnera, the varieties of /'. rc.xii being particularly fine. P. Polyatitlms has only one leaf, which grows from twelve to eighteen inches in length, is perfectly flat, and attaches itself to the rocks or to trunks of trees. This peculiar genus of plants is found only in South and Central Africa, and Madagascar. The gaunt, leafless stems, and candelabra-like heads of the giant Euphorbias have a strange and weird appearance, towering overhead, some to a height of forty to fifty feet. The PJnvnix rccUiuxta is one of the most graceful of the Natal palms, and adds greatly to the beauty of the coast scenery, as does also the Strclitzia Augusta, another fine foliage plant, with large banana-like leaves. It grows up to twenty feet in height, and bears flowers of a whitish and pale blue colour. It is sometimes called the Bird of Paradise flower. The Drac^na Hookeriana grows from eight to ten feet in height, has beautiful large curving leaves, and in the autumn produces immense panicles of creamy white and sweetly scented flowers. Perhaps the noblest of all the handsome foliage plants of Natal are the several species of P^ncephalatos. These fine Cycadaceous plants, w hen seen in their native habitat growing among the rocks near waterfalls, are truly magnificent. Some have tall stems and look like huge tree ferns, whilst others have long feather)' fronds, which grow from a dwarf bulbous caudex, and are of a perfect bell shape. P'or decorative purposes they are much more durable than a palm. Several species of Asparagus are common in the Natal woods. Some of these have exceedingly pretty foliage, notably A. pluiiiosus nanus. The feathery fronds of this plant are as effective to arrange with flowers as the Maidenhair fern, and are far more 60 lasting. Other species of Asparagus bear numerous clusters of creamy white flowers, and fairly merit a place among the Liliaceous plants, to which order they botanically belong. The bright crimson flowers of the several species of Erj'thrina are quite a feature in the forest scenery, particularly' along the coast lands. One of these beautiful leguminous plants, E. Caffra^ attains to the size and dimensions of a tree, and is a grand sight when in bloom. Several species of Pareetta grow to great perfec- tion in the Natal bush. They are shrubs with dark evergreen foliage, and attain to a height of from ten to twenty feet ; they bear a profusion of pure white Bouvardia-like flowers. The wild Gardenias are verj- handsome shrubs, conspicuous, not only on account of the snow-white masses of flowers with which they adorn the woodland scenery, but for their perfume. e:s ' phceni Aloes are represented by a large number of interesting species, most of which are remarkable, not only on account of their handsome foliage, but for the beauty of their flowers. The Ferns of Natal are an extremely interesting section of its flora, and are represented by almost numberless species and varieties. One of the commonest tree ferns is the Cyathea 6i Drcgii, which grows in open glades and beside streams all over the Colony. It has a stout stem from eight to twelve feet in height, and produces a beautiful head of fronds about six feet in length. The Honctrlia Capcusis is an even finer fern than the Cyathea, but it is only found in the shade of the forest. It has a taller and more slender stem, sometimes attaining twenty feet or more in height. The fronds are long and wide spreading. Two species of the Maidenhair fern are common in nc^arly every shad)' kloof, viz., Adiantum j^thiopiciim and A. Cap His voirris. The Maratfia fraxinea is a noble plant, and may be described as the giant fern of Natal. It has a huge, bulb-like caudc.x, from which spring enormous spreading fronds ten to fifteen feet in length. Growing on damp rocks and near waterfalls, numerous delicate ferns are often found, including some species of Tricomanes and Hymenopliyllums. The beautiful Gold, and Silver fern, Gymnograi)U)i(X aiiira and G. argentea, are also found in similar localities. Several species of Acrosticum, Davallia, Woodsia, and Polypodium grow on the trees, as well as the Gyin- nogramvia /anceolata, and rue fern, Aspleninni rutcsfoliuni. On the ground we find numerous species of Nephrodium, Pteris, Cheilanthes, Hypolepis, Lomarias, and the pretty little flowering fern, Anemia Drtgina. Over rocks and on old tree trunks the Oleamkr articitlata spreads its curious creeping rhysomes. The Boot-lace fern, Vittaria liiieata, is rather a rare plant, growing in the midland districts, but generally in inaccessible places. On the highest mountain ranges several species of British ferns find a congenial home. They include the Prickly-shield fern, PolvsticJinin angulare, the Maidenhair Spleenworts, Aspleniuui Tricomanes, and A. Adiantum nigrum. The Royal fern, Osmunda regalis, is common beside streams in many parts of the Colony, as is also the Bladder Spleenwort, Cystopteris fragilis. Before concluding this brief notice of Natal ferns, mention must be made of the two or three species of Glechenia. Glechenia umbracnlifcra and G. polypodioides are the com- monest. The first-named species grows on sunny banks, 62 generally on the outskirts of the bush, and is an exceedingly interesting and graceful fern. G. polypodioidcs is found in shady and moist positions. Leaving the woodland shade for the bright sunlight of the grassy veld, the foot treads a delightful sward of greenest verdure, which extends from one end of the Colony to the -€} hough H^A STELLATA other. Near the coast the varieties of grasses are coarser than those growing inland, but everywhere there is an abundant pasture for horses, cattle and sheep. The bulbous and herbaceous plants which adorn these vast stretches of pasture lands are legion, and baffle description in a section so brief as this must necessaril)' be. The Dierama pendula is a very peculiar plant, belonging to the order Iride?e. It very much resembles the ordinary grasses of the country, is common almost everywhere, and bears tall pendulous bells, some of which arc mauve, others are white and light purple. Gladiolus are largely represented, and, like the Watsonias, are distributed throughout the country. The colouring of many of the Gladiolus is exceedingly beautiful, and the Watsonias are mostly mauve, although there are one or two rarer species which bear scarlet and white flowers. One of the most beautiful plants of the coast region is the Gloriosa viresceus, which bears gorgeousK' coloured flowers of scarlet and gold. The Ifafa Lily is a lovely bouquet flower of a 63 cream}' white tint, L,n-()\ving a little higher than tlie Lily of the Valley. It is a fine garden or pot plant. The CyrtantJius sangia'f/CNS is a scarlet or crimson species growing also on the coast. The P^ire Lil)' of Natal is a C>Ttanthus ( C. ajigusti- foliiis). The varieties of this beautiful species are common all over the country, and are of a bright scarlet colour. To- wards the c\\(\ of winter, when the fields are parched and dead, grass fires are of frequent occurrence. Immediately after these fires, the flowers of this curious bulbous plant, spring up. The large blue umbels of the Agapanthus are found in many places, and several species of Crinums are common in marshy spots, and beside streams, their white or creamy blossoms affording a fine contrast with the tall, torch-like flowers of the Kniphofias, which grow in similar localities. In quiet pools the beautiful African Water Lily (Nyuiphcea Stellata) is often found covering the surface of the water with its fine foliage and azure flowers. Curious Asclepiads are found almost everywhere, but none are more interesting than Ferneyhoiish ENCEPHALATUS ALTENSTEr the various species of Ceropegias and Stapclias. The Kafir Daisy ( Gerbcra Caffra) bears flowers of brightest scarlet and deepest crimson. Several species of Hypoxis are conspicuous with their bright yellow flowers. On stony hill sides the tall 64 blue Scilla is common, also several species of the curious green-flowering Eucomis. Richardias arc also common among the rocks, some of them having prettily spotted leaxes. The white flowering Calla { Richardia Africaiia) grows beside the streams and on marsh lands in thousands, and is a beautiful sight when in full bloom. In November and December the November bells ( Sander sonia aurantiaca) are in full flower ; also numberless blue Lobelias, and variously coloured Everlastings. On the uplands the Galtonia candicans is conspicuous with its beautiful spike of pearl}' white flowers, and along the mountain ranges fine specimens of the Vcllozia elegans are not uncommon. The crimson-flowering Antholiza and numer- ous species of Heather grow in abundance, and in autumn even the sombre shadows of Majuba are lit up with their brightly coloured flowers. Of big game there is but little left in Natal. A {cw Animals, Hippopotami near the Umgeni are about all on record of this class. Hyaenas are still abundant in the wilder portions of the Colony. There are three varieties known, the brown, the maned, and the Hyaena maculata, called the tiger wolf b\' the Dutch. Jackals also abound in places. Leopards, locally called tigers, are somewhat rare, but may occasionally be 65 ".i^il:.!*^' auSHBUCI* Pl^ ,'^**' -^fr encountered in the remote fastnesses. Wild boars of two varieties exist. The porcupine, though frequent, is a particularly shy animal and most difficult of capture. Of rodents there are many varieties. Two descriptions of hares are constantly to be seen on the uplands, while an engaging little creature, familiarly known as the rock-rabbit, is of common occurrence. The ant-cater of Natal is a curious and interesting animal, and can but rarely be shot. It is, however, in antelopes that the country is particularly rich. The following list of the wild bucks of South Africa may be of interest and value to sportsmen. It has been prepared by Col. J. H. Bowker, F.Z.S. 1. Tragalap/ius Sylvatica, Bushbuck t (Harris). 2. Tragalaphus ! genus Red Bushbuck of the Zambesi. 3. Trai^a/ap/ius Aiit^asi, Inyala + (Buckley). 4. Traga/aphus Spekei Sitatii/igo. 5. Cen'icapra arundiniini, Reedhuck +. 6. Cervicapra lalandii. Red Rhel)uck t. 7. Pelea capriolas, Vaal Rhehuck t. 8. Natiotragns cafiipesiris, Steenbiick +. 9. Nanoiragus melanotis, Grysbuck +. 10. Zululand Steenl)uck ? Genus and Species. 11. Cfphalopophus monticola^ Bluebuck Pete*. 12. Cephalopophns iiatalensis. Natal Redbuck * Sir A. Smith. 13. Damalis pygarga, Bontebuck ""•'. 14. Cephalolophus grimmi. Duiker + (Buckley). 66 15. Gazella Euchore, Spiingl)uck * (Iiuckley). 16. Ofcotragus so/ fa tor, Klipspringer t. 17. ^pyceros melampus, Pal la t (iJuckley). 18. Kobiis e//i/>sipryi/iniis, Watcrbuck t Sir A. Smith. 19. Strepsiceros Kudu, Koodoo t (Buckley). 20. Kohus leclice Lechive\. 21. Onas canna. Eland'' (Buckley). 22. Buhalis Caama, Hartebeest "' Sir A. Smith. 23. Bubiilis Lichtensteini, Lichtenstein Hartebecst. 24. Dainalis /n/ialus, Sas.sabye * 25. Daiiialis albiftons, Blesbuck *. 26. Hippotragus equiuus. Roan Antelope* (Buckley). 27. Hippotragus niger. Sable Antelo[)e * (Buckley). 28. Oryx Gazella, Gemsbuck '" 29. Ahiuotragus scoparius, Oribi +. 33. Kobus Vardoni, Pookoo t. 3 I Bos caffer, Buffalo * 32. Caniiochci;tes iaurinus. Blue Wildebeest *. 33. Caniiochtvtes gnu. Black Wildebeest *. 34. iVanotragus damarcnsis^ Damaraland Antelope. The "' denotes that the female as well as the male has horns ; the + that the male only has them ; in all cases the horns of the female are not so large. Only about ten varieties of the smaller description of the above are now extant in Natal. Baboons of great size abound in the mountain ranges, while droves of black-faced monkeys can constantly^ be seen in the large forests. Crocodiles haunt the rivers of the coast, but attract little or no attention, as it but seldom happens that damage is caused b}' them. Of reptiles and insects there is a large and interesting variety. P}'thons attain a considerable size, but are very harmless. Of poisonous and deadly serpents there are many, chief of which may be mentioned tiie black mamba, whose bite is said to cause instantaneous death. The puff-adder ranks next ; although its bite is deadly, its movements are so slow as to minimise the danger. Of birds there are a great variety. Those coming under 67 the category of game would alone make a heavy list. Partridge, pheasant, quail and pigeons arc all well represented. The wild bustard, or " paauw," is a magnificent creature, sometimes standing five feet high, and showing an eight-feet spread of wing. Stilted birds, or long-legged waders, are in considerable force, while curlew and snipe, together with wild duck and geese, abound by the lonelier rivers. With respect to fish, much cannot be said at present. Of local varieties, there are sand and mud bream, barbels and eels. Trout and salmon oxa have been introduced, and much credit is due to Mr. Cecil A. S. Yonge, M.L.A., for his earnest and successful efforts in this direction. 68 Were it possible within the Hmits of this work to deal in detail with the insect life of Natal, much that would be of interest mii^ht be added, for, as stated elsewhere, the kloofs and ri\cr \alleys teem with mxriads of the most beautiful and delicatel}' coloured insects. Professor Drummond, in his "Tropical Africa," has dealt with this department of science, and the student would do well to stud)- the work before commencing his researches. In conclusion, and by way of warning to sportsmen, it ma\' be mentioned that a law for the i)rotection of the \arious descriptions of game is in force in the Colony. Persons are prohibited from hunting or killing certain varieties of birds known as the partridge, pheasant, paauw, koraan, guinea fowl, crane, and wild-duck, between the 15th August and 30th April. Hares, rabbits, and all varieties of the antelope species, such as the impala, rheebok, steinbok, oribi, boschbok, bluebok, klipspringer, duiker, are protected between the 30th June and 31st December; while the hippopotamus (sea cow), eland, hartebeeste, koodoo, reilbok, springbok, blesbok, secretai}' bird, and turke\'-buzzard, all known as royal game, are not allowed to be killed, excepting by special license from the Governor. J'fjfityhotigh NATAL BUTTERFLIES. 69 SECTION VII. UMTAMVUNA TO THE BLUFP\ Umtam- '' I ^HE coast line of Natal stretches from the Umtamvuna vuna. I J_ in the south, to the Tugela in the north, trending in a north-easterly direction for 170 or 180 miles. There is about one mile of coast to every 118 miles of superficial area. Along this line, twenty-five rivers pour their waters into the sea. With the charitable intention of not burdening the minds of readers with the unpronounceable names of too many rivers, only the principal streams will be mentioned, as they pass in review before the tourist while voyaging along the coast. Commencing at the Umtamvuna, the sea front of Natal presents but few points of especial interest or beauty. A curious feature of difference between Natal and the Cape Colony is that the seasons are reversed ; the winter of the Cape Colony being its rainy period, while the summer is dry. The result is, that in travelling along the coast, a perceptible difference can be recognised, the coast of the Cape in summer being dry and barren looking, while Natal is in the full blaze of verdant glory. The barren looking sand hills, interspersed with forests, the low rounded hillocks, and the occasional mountains, which are seen from the deck of the coasting steamer, impart but a faint idea of the sylvan beauty which is so widely and liberally distributed throughout the country. The illustrations, in like manner, reflect the grandeur of the land but inadequately ; for no matter how delicate and artistic an engraving may be, its lack of colour and motion deprives it of man\' charms. By means of the photographic engravings embodied in this work, however, the stranger will be able to come to a fair approxi- 70 mation of the land which he is about to visit. Now and then the monotony of this part of the voyage is rchevcd ; when the coasting vessels on still nights creep close along the shore, the grass or jirairic fires, especiall}- in the winter season, foi-ni a particularl}- impressive and interesting sight ; the hills, wrapped M\iSb\ in darkness, are lighted for a space in vignette by the (M'ange- rcd glow of the flames ; rolling clouds of smoke, oftentimes lighted on one side by the fire, and on the other by pale moonbeams, suggest ideas of warfare and terror. The long lines of flame, as they sweep through the reed brakes, or oxer the hills, conjure up the appearance of burning cities, while the occasional thickets, as the fire catches them, flare up in towers of light as though disaster had overtaken the pinnacles of some stately palace. The sea reflects the glare on one hand and the sky on the other, until some conception can be formed of the magnificent spectacle which must have been presented 71 at the destruction of Pompeii ; hut tlie tourist nia}- be at rest, U)V there is ne'er a cit\' upon this loneh' coast. Alfred Count)', Xatal's latest southern acquisition, is now beini^ passed. At present this count}' is little more than a native location. Sonic few white farmers arc toiling manfully awa\' amongst its hills, fighting against the heavy odds of distant markets, no railwa}', and no harbour. All things come, however, to th.ose who work and wait, and there is no doubt of their ultimate success, especiall)- when it is borne in mind that the soil of the count}' is good, while its back country constitutes a fine pastoral region. Umzim- From the sea, the Umzimkulu mouth no more shadows forth the real worth and beauty of the district, than oftentimes the SOUTH NATAL. appearance of a talented savaut does his learning. Here and there along the coast formidable masses of rock crop up from The the sand ; one of these, slightl}' to the northward of the harbour. Place! possesses especial interest, for here, in the old days of savage 72 rule, the sable i)f)tentatcs of the land were wont to carr)' out the extreme penaltx' of their displeasure on such unlucky wretches aa had incurred it. There is a cleft in the rocks which goes down far beneath low-water mark. Its smooth worn sides arc like a funnel, and its depths are continuall}' swept b\' seething water, lashed white as snow. Into this cleft the \ictims were hurled without mercy, and there, in their hopeless and terrible plight, they were beaten (jut of human semblance b\' the ceaseless rise and fall of the sea. Xo torture of the Inquisition could exceed the ghastliness and horror of such a death. Owing to the smoothness of the sides, the \ictims were hel])less, and their death slow ; all t'.ie while over the mouth of the cleft their despairing eyes could see the fair sunlit sky, in whose glor\- the\' had no longer a portion. I^'ortunate!)-, these terrors arc now only memories ; and the modern tra\eller can enjo\- his tra\el, or settler his settlement, 73 with the comfortable assurance that peace and good order are firmly established in the countr}-. Still it is well to keep in mind something of the cliaractcristics of the past. Close to the rocks alluded to, the estuary of Umzimkulu is ''ort located. The Port was named after that staunch and distin- stone, guished veteran colonist, Sir Thcophilus Shepstone, K.C.M.G., whose name will ever be held in the highest honour by all true Natal ians. On the south side of the entrance there is a long, low, aloe-studded point, which rises to an altitude of 300 feet at a distance of two miles from the sea. On this ridge the signal station and Port Captain's " Look-out " are placed. Behind it lies the scattered village of Lower Umzimkulu. The estuar\- extends about eight miles inland. At its mouth PORT SH£PSTONE. ESTUAB it is about 200 }'ards across, carries an average depth of fifteen feet, and sweeps with an open channel into the sea. About £ti6,ooo have been spent b\- the Government in removing the bar and building a training wall. The works have been, on 74 the whole, successful, and coasting steamers make fortnightly trips to Durban, sixty miles to the northward. The trade of Port Shepstone is slowl\- developing. It consists of lime, cement, marble, cattle, hides, horns, grain, fruit, farm produce, and wagon wood. Within recent times, sugar and tea factories have been added to the industries of the place. The liarrow-Green Estate, said to be one of the best managed tea plantations in Natal, has achieved a wide- spread popularity, which is most thoroughly deserved. Further on in these pages the tea industry will be full)' dealt with, but til passant it may be mentioned that this pioneer establishment has done more than merely start an industry in the south, for it has demonstrated the grand fact that tea as a staple, can be successfully cultivated in the vicinit\\ The view, after leaving the estuar}', is very beautiful, and forcibly recalls the river scenery of the homeland. In fact, but for an occasional glimpse of a banana plantation, or the sweeping, arch-like limbs of a tall bamboo, one might easily imagine it to be an English stream. The dark forests on the right, and the open alluvial plains on the left, have nothing of the typical African scener\' about them, while the broad river, with its clear banks and placid surface, is untenanted by crocodiles or any other sub-tropical African pest. Here, there, and e\er\'where, on both sides of the stream, the well- kept, trim orchards and farms of the settlers, help to dispel from the mind all preconcei\cd ideas of the countr\-, which may have been imbibed from the pages of sensational writers. The white bungalows, the English-looking villas, say much for the capacit}- of the Xatal colonist and Briton to make a wilderness blossom, and to transform an alien land into a home-like home. A South African writer has embodied this facult)- in the following lines : — " Wliatevcr land (]reat Britain's sons adopt, Where'er thcjr courage, and their enterprise Hath called them ; be it Iceland's silent jjlains, Or Afric's lone and dreary wilderness. There they implant another Albion ; And, holding fast to old and cherished ways, Bless their adopted home, and blessing it Are blest themselves, and prosper wondrously." 7S Messrs. Aiken Bros., Hitchins, Rru de Wold, Bazley, and several others ha\c striitj^t^led ti^allantl\' here. In the old days, when CiONernnK'Hl was not \ct aware of the value of the estuar\- as a port, they enclea\ oured, and succeeded, to partially open and improve the harbour. Later on, a company was formed to purchase a steamer, while others again built sea-going boats, and exhibited marked enterprise in order to keep the district before the public. A settlement of Norwegian emigrants was made at Marburg, and in due course a church, a hall, and a library were established. A magistracy was next added, and the place brought into touch with the principal markets b}- means of a telegraph line. The scener}- up the river near the St. Helen's Rock is very fine. Here the stream narrows, and sea- going craft are blocked, but lighters can go several miles further up to the marble quarries, which are about twelve miles above the port. At the rapids, under St. Helen's Rock, the IJmzimkulwana or Little Umzimkulu, joins the main stream, 76 amidst a wealth of trailing creepers and tall trees, through whose tangle, bcnilders of mammoth size crop out. On either hand, the hills approach the stream ; their castellated cliffs adding grandeur and beauty to the localit}'. Bushbok and leopards are said to roam the forests, while a variety of small deer and game birds are to be had in plcnt\-. Disembarking from the boat on the left-hand side of the river, the visitor, after a short walk, will find himself in a forest strewn with masses of snow-white marble. In places where the earth has been remo\-ed he can walk on a white marble floor, through the crevices of which, tall trees stretch their trunks to a fair height, their intertwined branches forming a canopy of shade. QUARRYING BLOCKS OF It is no trifle in the wa\- of luxur}-, to ramble through these marble halls of Nature, and revel in the beaut}- primeval, which is so abundantly spread out on every side. The forests, as far as timber is concerned, are not of very much account, but they serve to enhance the charm of the scener^^ 78 The productions of this (Hstrict arc similar to those of L'mzinto. the last-mentioned, but it is within the scope of possibility that they will be considerably added to in the near future. Passing on, along the coast towards Durban, the next points of interest likcl)' to fix the attention of a stranger, are the little harbours of Umzinto, Scotburg, and Tituana. Cargo can be discharged and landed at these points, and possibly something will be done in time to establish a regular and Ingratn 30UH OF UMKOMAAS RIVER. lucrative coasting trade between thcni and Durban. The Umzinto coast district has its full share of the general fertilit)- and beaut}' of Natal. Park Rennie. just inland of Tituana Ba\', is one of Nature's triumphs. Here the worthy dame has evidently taken lessons from man, and of her own accord has planted and arranged a park. The meadows are covered \\\\\\ short, car{)et-like grass, and studded with lilies and other wild flowers in great variety. At frequent 79 intervals clusters of trees are placed, tin}- rivailets meander throut^h it ; and amont^st the cattle of the settlers of the adjacent villas^e of Umzinto, wild deer, turkey-buzzards, ibises and cranes move about in a state of complete concord. Three miles further inland the Umzinto Sugar Company's Estates are located, to^^ether with the residences, farms and plantations of man\' well-known and wideh' respected colonists. When in due course the sui^ar industry comes within the scope of these paj^es, the importance of the manufacture will be reco<^nised. 1 he occurrence of i^old formations at Umzinto has been talked of for \-ears. Now and again, rich "pockets" of alluvial ]ia\e been discovered, and reefs and leaders whispered of There is no doubt that the metal does occur, but wiiether in pa\-able quantities or not can only be declared after sufficient test. As yet, the peculiar geological formation of the district is but imperfectly known. Should the port at Umzinto ever be properly opened, it would tap a large coast area. 80 Umkomaas Ri\cr and Port next claim attention. The '-'m'^o- maas. river is not remarkable for its scenery, but it ranks next to Umzimkulu as a harbour. There are in the district sev'eral estates and scattered farms. A few miles from the mouth of the river is an old established hotel. Good boating and fishing are available. Higher up the river, the scenery becomes broken and wild, and game in season abound. Amongst the tumbled mountains and valleys an enjoyable trip can easily be made. A good road traverses the whole of the country, and a punt, for the convenience of traffic, crosses the river near the hotel. Heading now finally for Durban, the coast begins to show more signs of life and habitation. Instead of the stray dwellings which at rare intervals further south greeted the sight, numerous homesteads come faintly into view, and plantations are more frequently visible from the sea. Isipingo, with its False Bluff, is passed, and, rising apparently out of the ocean to the northward, Natal's most familiar landmark, the Bluff Proper, or Cape of Natal, comes into view. 8i SECTION VIII. THE BLUFF, HARBOUR, AND BAY. THE headland which overlooks the harbour of Natal is crowned with a lighthouse, signal station, and flag staff. Should an enem}-'s fleet of warships ever attempt an attack on this ridge it will find that it has caught a " Tartar," for there "in grim array stand waiting Natal's staunch champions," in the form of two batteries of modern garrison guns, whose metal and range may well be left to themselves to declare, should occasion ever require it. With panorama-like beauty, the view changes as the steamer sweeps on, until the bold headland has assumed that appearance which warrants its name. The southern slopes are covered in dense bush, where another battery will shorth' be erected, and that in a locality most difficult of discover}- b}' an enemy at sea. The invasion of Natal is a far off and almost impossible contingenc}-, but " forearmed" is the motto of wisdom, and here it is exemplified. The crest of the Bluff range is 211 feet above high water le\el. The lighthouse, which is built of iron, is eighty-one feet in height, giving the light an altitude of 292 feet above the sea at high water. The tower is situated in Lat. 29° 52' 40" South, and Long. 31 ' 3' 50' East. The light is a revolving one of the second class (dioptric), attaining its greatest brilliancy once every minute. It is visible for tvv^ent}--four miles at sea, in clear weather, and was first exhibited on the 23rd January, 1869. There are many other conveniences and facilities at this point for the use of shipping, such as a signal station, and semaphore, fitted for use by day or night. These are in touch with the Port Office on the other side of the Bluff Channel. 82 While dealing with this point, and before leaxint^^ it for the wider field of travel, it ma}' interest tourists to know that it is a popular holiday resort. The gladc-like roads, with glimpses on one hand of the open sea, and on the other, of mountain and forest, ba}', island, and town, form a scenic combination. THE BLUFF. NATAL hard to equal elsewhere. All kinds of sweet wild flowers thrive in the forests, small game still hold their own, despite the local sportsmen. Black-faced moneys occasionall}' gambol from tree to tree, and valuable and pretty shells strew the beach near the cave rock. A small restaurant is to be found here, where the " inner man " may be refreshed, while the genial " old salts " who are in charge of the stations are noted for the kindness with which they greet the stranger. Bringing the e\-e back from the Bluff heights, the tourist, Harbour assuming that he be still at the outer anchorage, will see ^" ^^" before him the entrance to the harbour, with its two cele- brated piers or breakwaters. Probably no one who has enough interest in South Africa to read its history or its journals 83 can be ii^noranl of the importance attached b\' the Colon}- and the .shi[)[)inL;- world to these two structures. In the old da>-s the open channel between the sandspit on the north and the bluff on the south was barred b\- a submarine belt of sand, over which the sea at times broke heavil)'. Vessels, espcciall}' sailintj craft, were in fj^rcat jeopard)' in crossing it. These two breakwaters were and are being erected to do awa}- with this sand bar, which at the present time is a mere tritlc to what it was some years ago. Nowada}'s vessels of large tonnage can, under favourable circumstances, steam as easiK' into the Port of Natal as into the Cape Town Docks. The day upon which these lines were penned saw a vessel of 3,000 tons come into the harbour and moor alongside the wharf without the M idditibrook ENTRANCE TO HAP slightest difficulty. The length of the pier to the northward is 2,905 feet, while the breakwater on the south or bluff side of the channel is 2,550 feet. The channel between them is about a quarter of a mile broad, and sweeps from the open 84 View. sea into the land-locked ba\', which has an area of seven and a half square miles of open water. Before crossing the bar it is necessary to take a general (knerai or bird's-eye view of the w^iole locality. North of the Bluff Range, which trends away to the westward, merging into the Wentworth Hills, is a beautiful combination of mountain scenery, which semi-girds the bay. Close at hand, the MAIN Wh Wharves, Shipping, Port Office, Railway Station, Custom House, and a goodly number of other structures occup)- the end of a tongue of land about two miles in length, which is covered with buildings and known as Addington. From the sea, but few signs of the town of Durban are discernible, save the towers of the Town Hall, Roman Catholic Chapel, and the roofs of one or twcj loft}- buildings. Later on, the fact that a goodly city lies hidden behind the beach range of bush, will be amply demonstrated. Past the town, and showing clcarh' in the miclcllc distance, is the Berea range, with its remnants of priinc\al forest, amongst which, beautiful gardens can be found. Numerous statel}' villas, cottages, churches and public edifices are built along its thonnighfares. This is the residential suburb of Durban, lieyond it the park-like slopes and hills of Durban County spread westward. To the north, the more open country of Victoria Count}', co\-ered with sugar-cane fields, and the bold bluffs of the Inanda Range are visible. Along the coast there is but little to be seen, as no harbours of any account occur between Durban and Delagoa Ba\'. I'he general impression of the view from the outer anchorage Whar- is a pleasant one, set as the prospect is, in a frame of blue sea and man}' tinted clouds. The passage of the bar having been efiected, the stranger will find himself in the midst of a busy scene of commercial and maritime activit}'. The wharves with their long lines of 86 sheds, h}'draulic cranes, shcar-lc^s, ceaseless processions of trucks, puffing engines, busy clerks, labourers, coolies and sailors, conve}' a fair idea of the business importance of this .a-«i^ *■ "xSl M k^m iSiS! ST. PAUL'S WHARF. DURBAN. centre. Smart Customs officers promenade the wharves, in constant watchfulness, and while the honest stranger will receive every consideration at their hands, any attempt at smuggling will meet with its just punishment. The main or steamer wharf is a solid timber structure i,8oo feet in length, fitted with lines of rails for h}'draulic cranes and trucks ; the former with lifting capacities of 30 cwt., are movable, to suit the convenience of steamers. With their long iron arms, they lift heavy cargo at the rate of 200 tons per day from each hatchway and deposit it safeh- in the trucks with one sweep, whence it ma)- be whirled awa)- to the great trade and mining centres in the far west and north, where coal, gold, silver, copper and other precious articles are being daily 87 r, 2 brought to the surface, or ground floor of this vast African treasure house, j^ehind the Hues of raihvay, wharf sheds with loft}% wide-spreading roofs, serve as storing places. Behind these, again, are other h'nes of rails, so that the sheds may discharge their contents from both sides at once, into the capacious trucks waiting to receive them. Before leaving the wharf the general facilities for the dis- charge of cargo may be stated. It is no unusual event for a vessel of large tonnage to arrive in the harbour, discharge 2,000 tons of cargo, take on board 700 tons of Natal coal, together with other merchandise, and clear within three days. In this work, all along the wharf, there are on an average about 900 coloured labourers and 200 whites cmplo\-ed. These numbers do not include sailors or railway employes. The bustle of the scene is much enhanced by the general hubbub of screaming whistles, clanking chains, and rumbling wheels, and the tourist will be fain to admit that in visiting Natal he has by no means placed himself beyond the hurly-burly of 88 the busy world. Despite Africa's heat, and the lassitude which is supposed to be a distini^uishing trait of the countr)% there is a vast amount of vital energ)- left in the Colonial character, which shows itself in a marked manner in connection with business. Still further back from the inner line of railway, on the wharves, there is a broad macadamised road, fronted on the landward side by the compact Custom House, with its stone columned front, commodious Long room and other offices. Lower down this road are the quarters of the Port Office, the Port Captain's '' Look-out," and the Harbour Board. The establishment of the harbour consists of a Port Captain, several Pilots, Wharfmaster, Customs Department, Captains, Mates and Crews of Tugs, Signalmen, and Water Police. The next wharf to the main, is named St. Paul's ; it is also a busy centre of activity, for here the sailing vessels which visit the harbour, discharge their cargoes of railway material, timber, flour, paraffin, etc. Here, again, long lines of trucks are in evidence, and huge piles of merchandise are daily borne off to their various destinations. The tall forest of "spars" VIEW ON DURBAr and "yards," the maze of rigging, combined with the odour of tar, serve to recall pleasing memories of the old da\-s of sea-faring romance, when "Ships were shi]3s, and ranged the seas Obedient to the winds."'" 89 Lying in goodly rows, double banked and linked together, they present a striking appearance with their many-coloured bunting, amongst which the flags of all nations may be recognised. In addition to these two wharves, there is a landing stage for passengers from steamers, and a ferry boat jetty, where pleasure boats of all sizes may be hired. Steam yachts and \Y AND ISL JDS. PORT NATAL. tugs are available to take excursionists over the bar, on fishing trips. Inside the bay, disciples of the rod can find ample sport ; bream, shad, rock-cod, Cape salmon, and a great variety of other fish abound. Pleasant picnic journeys can be made to the island in the bay, or to the bluff and Congella, all of which places are within easy reach. In connection with the harbour works there are extensive improvements in progress. A new quay of dressed stone, 500 feet in length, bedded thirty-one feet below low water 90 mark, will shortI\' be completed. Dredgers are hard at work deepenini^ the inner ba\', bluff channel, and bar. Further up towards the town, an extensive scheme of land reclamation is being carried out. A training wall has been built, and over fift\' acres of valuable land liave been added to the shore. It is estimated that this area of ground is worth i^8oo per acre. It is the intention to continue the wharves right up the ba\' to the town. Leaving St. Paul's Wharf and returning to the other, the extent of the business life of the " Point," as it is called, is realised when the Alexandra Hotel, the Seamen's Institute, the Criterion Hotel, the Railway Station, Electric Offices, and the long rows of business premises are passed. On tlie beach facing the .sea, another battery of modern garrison guns is placed for the protection of the Port. By the time this tour of inspection is over, night begins to creep up, and the bay, which lies spread out for miles to the westward, has changed from blue to grey. The distant hills of Wentworth have \anished in the haze, while darkness for a moment only, settles on the wharves. With a flash the long tiers of electric globes shed out a perfect flood of dazzling white light, and the work of the Port proceeds as usual. It would be unjust to close this section without making special reference to the eminent services rendered in connection with the Harbour by the Hon. Mr. Harry Escombe, Q.C., M.L.A., who, on his retirement from the chairmanship of the Harbour l^oard (consequent on his assumption of office as Attorney-General), a position which he had held for over thirteen )'ears, was the recipient of a minute from the Government, the tenour of which was endorsed b\- the Hon. the Secretar\' of State for the Colonies. In this minute it was clearly set forth that during the long period of his gratuitous service to the Colon)', he had devoted his time and energy to it, wdthout stint or recompense. In forwarding this minute to the Hon. the Secretary of State, His Excellenc)- the Go\-ernor e.\{iressed his entire concurrence with the views of the Ministrx', and stated that 91 wlicn ?k'Ir. l'-sc()iiibc undertook his duties, the a\-crage depth of water on the bar at Durban was twel\"e feet. At the end of 1894 the Union S.S. "Gaul," drawing 19 feet 6 inches, and measuring 7,744 tons, was successfully brought into the Harbour, and the S.S. " British King," measuring 405 feet between perpendiculars, was safel)' berthed in Port. In reply, the Right Hon. the Marquis of Ripon stated he had not long been in office before his attention was attracted by the record of Mr. Escombc's unfaltering perse- verance in the matter of the improvement of the Durban Harbour. In \ievv of this record, it is but fair to say that as long as the Port of Durban exists, the name of Mr. Escombe will be remembered with gratitude. Middleb7-ook CAVE ROCK, BLUFF 92 smmm^mmm SECTION IX. DURBAN. LEAVING the Point, a trip of two miles either by train Ad.iington. ^ or tram lands the traveller in Durban, by way of Addington, which is now merged into the town. This suburb, if it may be so called, possesses its own centres of attraction. A substantial Masonic Lodge, several churches and many stores have been erected, while the Government Hospital is placed on a ridge overlooking the sea, in its vicinity. The town of Durban is located on the plain which lies Durban. between the bay, the Berea, and the sea. It was founded on the 23rd June, 1835, and was named after Sir Benjamin D'urban. At that time the spot was a mere aggregation of sand hills and bush. In the fifty-nine )'ears of its life, it has progressed wonderfully, considering all the disadvantages with which it had to contend in its earlier years. At the present time the rateable value of the borough is ;/^2,8i2,i70. It is usually described as one of the most English-like towns in South Africa. Whether this be so or not matters little, for the fact remains that it is a busy, bustling and prosperous centre, conducted by a community of clear-headed, keen and enterprising men of business. The result is apparent in the broad, well-hardened streets, the solid blocks of mercantile houses, the complete list of necessary institutions, and the high standard of social life. No Colon)- could desire to have a better ke\-stone to its structure, than the seaport of Natal is to Natal, and no ke\'stone could be of more practical utilit)' in its place than Durban is in the econom}- of the Colon)-. It pla)-s a part which is felt throughout the land, and is destined to pla)- a )-et more important role, when the harbour 93 and railwa)' s\'stcm.s of the Colon}- arc complctctl. The palatial Town Hall, which ijraccs the centre of the town, was completed on the 28th October, 18.S5, at a cost of /"50,252, and is h'f^hted throughout by electricit)-. The tower is 164 feet in heii^ht, and contains a large clock with bell and chimes. Towards the end of 1894 a handsome organ was erected in the main hall by the Corporation. This instrument together with the one in the Maritzburg Town Hall are almost similar, and are the best in South Africa. The streets of the town are laid down at right angles, and the three principal thoroughfares are lined wnth well-built stores, shops and hotels. Amongst its institutions are the Corporation, the Chamber of Commerce, Trade Protection Society, Fruit Growers' Association, Young Ladies' College, Public Schools, Club, Museum, Librar}', Permanent Building Society, Literary and Political Associations, Freemasons', Foresters', Oddfellows', and other friendly societies, British and P'oreign Bible Society, Choral Unions, Racing and Athletic Clubs. Luxurious Public Baths have been constructed ; a Volunteer Hall, a Gymnasium, a Theatre and many other places of public resort are in evidence ; while places of worship for nearly every denomination are liberally endowed and supported. Amongst the public companies having their offices in Durban, there are the Natal Land and Colonization Company Limited, Natal Central Sugar Company Limited, the Umhlanga Valley Sugar and Coffee Company Limited, the Eastern Telegraph and Submarine Cable, Lloyd's Agent, Lloyd's Surveyor, Bureau Veritas, Renter's Telegraph Company Limited, Life and P'ire Insurance Companies, Landing and Shipping Agencies, Ocean and Coast Lines of Steamers, Trolley and Coal Companies. The Standard liank of South Africa Limited, the Bank of Africa Limited, the Natal Bank Limited, and the African Banking Corporation Limited liave also substantial offices in the main thoroughfares. In addition to these, there are several limited liabilit\- mercantile houses. Two old-established newspapers are published in the town; the morning journal named the " Natal Mercur\"," founded in 1852, and the "Natal Advertiser," which is published in 95 the evcnint^. The former journal lias lately established a type foundry, and manufactures its own printing material. A paper called the " Weekly Review" has latel}' been added. A perfect tram s)-stem serves the town and its suburbs. Starting from the Point, the complete circuit of the sights of Durban can be enjoyed. The line traverses West Street from end to end. At the h'ield Street crossing it branches along the Florida Road. Continuing from the corner, it passes out of the town in a westerly direction, over a plain and up the J-Jerca, thence along the Musgrave Road. An extensive sewerage scheme is in course of progress, and when completed will be a most important adjunct to the health and comfort of the borough. The cost of this scheme is estimated at i^ioo,coo. Water- jj-j ^\yQ matter of Waterworks, Durban is particularly works. _ _ "^ favoured, it having two main sources of suppl)'. The first, or Umbilo system, is capable of serving the town with an abundant supply. The reservoir has a capacity of 40,000,000 gallons, and is situated about 800 feet above the sea level. The other, or Umlaas system, has been carried out at a cost of iT 130,000, and is capable of suppl)'ing the town with 7,000,000 gallons of pure water per da)-. The works are extensive, and comprise 2,560 }'ards of tunnelling. Mr. J. F. E. Barnes, M.Inst.C.E., who has since been appointed Engineer of the Public Works Department, is to be specially credited in connection with Durban's water supply, as it was during his period of office as Borough Engineer that the Umbilo scheme was successfully established. The Oh- The Natal Observatory is situated on the upper slope of the t-rvaon. -g^j.^^^ immediately above the Botanic Gardens, at a height of 260 feet above the sea. The Observatory consists of a simple rectangular brick building carrying a dome fourteen feet in diameter, sheltering a fine eight-inch equatorial refractor, and a small transit room containing a three-inch transit instrument. Each of these instruments is supported on substantial concrete piers which raise them twelve feet above the surrounding surface. Attached is a room for the use of the Astronomer, a temporary 95 computing room, and a room for the clocks and electrical fittings. There is a first-class mean time clock b\' V^ictor Kullbcrg, and an excellent sidereal clock by Dent, besides chronometers and other accessories. On the lawn to the north- east is a magnetic room carrying a small magnetic instrument for determining the variation of the compass, whilst a similar small detached room on the east contains the principal meteorological instruments. The C)bsorvator\' was founded mainh' through the exertions THE OBSERVATORY. BEREA, DURBA of Mr. Escombc, who presented it with the fine equatorial telescope, whilst Mr. Greenacre, Mr. Randies, and others subscribed towards the cost of the original buildings. The Natal Government voted ^^500 on condition that the Obser- vatory was ready to take part in the observations of the Transit of Venus in December, 1882, and the Durban Corporation voted a sum of il^joo towards the cost of the buildines. 97 7I> Everything was sufficicntl}' advanced in time for the Observatory to take part in the observation of the Transit on December 4th, and to furnish a most valuable contribution towards the determination of the solar distance. In Januar)% 1883, the Natal Government decided to take over the Obscr\atory and carry it on as a (jovcrnment Institution, upon ^\■hich footing it has remained ever since. The primary aims of the Observatory is to maintain the time of the Colony, and to investigate the climate of the Colony and the conditions which affect and regulate the changes in the climate, but at the same time it is desired that there should be utilised such opportunities which present themselves for contributing to the advancement of the science of Astronom}', by making those special researches which cannot be undertaken at the larger Observatories owing to the pressure of routine work. With this intention, a long series of observations of the moon and a spot on its surface were made during the }'ears 1883-85, with the double view^ of finding a better method of determining its position in the heavens and the laws regulating those small changes in its regular rotation on its axis due to the attraction of the earth. Similarly, a long .series of observations were made during the }-ears 1884-88 with the view of accurately fixing the position of the Observatory on the surface of the earth, an important factor in the geodetic survey of South Africa, and an important contribution to the study of the exact figure of the earth. During 1889-94 a similar series of observations were under- taken to furnish the data for better connecting the observations of the stars made at Observatories in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. During the same period a long series of calculations have been made for reducing the series of Durban Tidal Obser\-ations, so as to obtain the data for predicting the tides, and for improving our knowledge of the internal structure of the earth. In connection with Meteorolog}' much has been learnt of the climate of Durban, but it is onl}- of late that subsidiary stations have been founded at twelve other places in the 99 Colon}', with tlic view of cxtciulin^^ the results already obtained with i"eL;"ard to Durban o\er the entire Colony. The mean value of the princi[)al meteorological constants for the last nine \-ears are as follows : — 'I'ABLE (JF .MEAN VALUES. Mean. .Me,-in of 'rempe ratines. ^Iean. Mean. Mean. Mean. Year. liaiometer. Max. Me.in. Min. Moisture. Rainfall. Wind Force. Cloudness. Inches. Grains. Inches. Units. Per Cent. 1885 30.123 81-35 71.28 60.02 5.90 34.4B 1.25 47.0 1886 30.108 81.09 71.90 61.08 5.91 31-79 1.24 48.0 1887 30.133 80.26 70.78 60.19 5.68 3'.«7 1. 41 47.0 1888 30.103 81.40 71.68 60.69 5.88 37-74 1. 1 8 52.0 1889 30.123 82.54 72.84 62.07 5.98 29.98 1.48 45-5 1890 30.106 82.40 72.80 61.90 5.80 32.90 1.29 47-5 I 89 I 30.120 80.71 71.41 61.52 6.08 45-45 1.28 50.1 1892 30.066 80.69 71.90 62.01 6.10 38-37 1-38 50.9 1893 30.098 78.70 70.95 61.10 6.20 71.27 1.32 50.9 The average rainfall for the last twenty )'ears is 39-48 inches, di.str ibuted over the year as foil ovvs :— - January 4.74 in ches. July ... 1.5 I inc les. February 4.70 August 2.14 , March 4.53 September ... 2.77 , April 2.51 October 4.07 May ... 1. 81 November ... 5-25 , June ... 0.92 Decemb er ... 4-53 ) Disregarding light showers, the average number of rainy days in Durban is forty-one during the summer, or September to March, and twenty during the winter, or March to September. Generally, the rain falls during the evening, beginning about sunset. The number of thunderstorms averages eight during the .summer and six during the winter months, they rarely occurring during June, July and August, but not unfrequently during May, September and October. The corresponding details for other places in the Colony are : — Rainstorms. Thunderstorms. .Summer. Winter. Year. Summer. Winter. Year Stanger 29 16 45 4 3 7 Vcrulam - 38 ^5 ^>3 6 6 12 Richmond ... 33 20 53 8 3 I I I.xopo 62 28 90 24 8 32 Harding- 43 23 66 6 -) 8 Port Shepstone 80 26 106 14 7 21 Umzinto 75 24 99 14 10 24 Maritzburg ... 61 32 93 16 4 20 Creytown ... 47 n 69 18 6 24 Estcourt .. 56 25 81 16 6 22 Ladysmith ... 28 1 1 39 26 7 33 Newcastle ... 52 21 73 23 5 20 Of late years the number of thunderstorms occurring on the coast districts of Natal has undergone a marked diminution, especially in the neighbourhood of Durban, where they are scarcely half as common as twelve j^ears ago, Middlelirook /EST STREET, LOOKING WEST, OURBAT and scarcely a third of the number which used to occur twenty-five years ago. The Observatory is in 2 h. 4 m. i.i8s. East Longitude from Greenwich, and in 29° 50' 47" South Latitude, and the time kept all over the Colony is Durban Observatory mean time, which is 2 hours 4 minutes in advance of Greenwich time. On the slope of the Berea, below the Observatory, are the Government Laboratories and Assay Furnaces, where there are carried out all the chemical anal}'ses and assays required for use in the various Government Departments, the most important being those connected with the Administration of Justice, the Department of Mines, and the examination of the various powerful high explosives passing through the Customs. Govern- ment ( 'liemical Labora- tories. It would be superfluous to further particularise the details of the town, for any visitor, (mi landing, will not have the slii^htest difficult)' in obtaining all he may require, in the way of accommodation or information. Should he be in search of emplo)'ment, the way is open. If the acquisition of land is his object, application to the proper authorities will bring forth all the information he may need ; but should it be health or scenery he is in search of, it is about him every- where. As a health resort, Durban is in winter as nearly jicrfect as possible. The mortality of the borough varies from fifteen to twenty-three per i,ooo. This is low, and at the same time it should be borne in mind that many of those who have added to the list, are casual visitors from the east coast fever regions, where privations have worn them down and driven them to take refuge at this place. The Not the least imposing structure in Durban is that portion Station, ^f the ncw Main Railway Station which is completed. As usual in Colonies, the useful precedes the ornamental. Following this rule, the authorities have pushed on with the main arch, which contains platforms for four trains. The clear span of the roof is 105 feet, and it is 210 feet long. This great arch is carried on brick walls, 20 feet high at the side, the height of the centre of the roof being 56 feet. The two platforms arc 350 feet long by 25 feet wide, having three lines of road between them and two lines on each side. The new station buildings, for which designs have been prepared, but the construction of which has not yet been authorised, will be adjacent to the shed, with a frontage of 117 feet to Pine Street and 127 feet to Railway Street. The main entrance to the booking office, etc., will face the Town Hall, while the passenger exit will be into Railway Street. The building, which is to be double-storied, will have on the ground floor a booking hall, 46 by 38 feet, waiting rooms for first and second class passengers, lavatories and retiring rooms fitted with the most modern conveniences. There will also be suitable cloak rooms and parcels offices, together with a spacious dining room and refreshment bar. The upper floor will afford all the necessary accommodation for the General Manager's and other Departmental offices. Adioininsr the main station, and on the north-eastern side Natal of the line, are situated the locomotive, carriage, and wagon ment workshops of the Natal Government Railways. They cover work-^^ a large area of ground, and contain within their limits every ^'^°P^- department connected with the construction, repair, and renewal of all rolling stock. When it is stated that 450 Europeans (men and boys), 200 Indians, and forty Kafirs are employed here, that the whole stock of the Railways, comprising 91 engines, 1,337 wagons, and 204 carriages are dealt with, some idea of the proportions of the department may be grasped. These workshops constitute hot only the most extensive labour employing institution in Natal, but from their precincts a large majority of the trained tradesmen of the Colony proceed to their various spheres of usefulness throughout South Africa. On an average, there is about one apprentice to three journeymen. Admission for training is much sought after for tlic sons of the working classes, as the technical education obtained here is said to be more regular and accurate than is possible in a smaller establishment. In this sense, the Natal Govern- ment Railway workshops ma}' be regarded as an industrial school of the highest order. The period of apprenticeship is five years, and but few of Caney FRUIT AND /EGETABLE MARKET, DURBAN. those who have had their training here are ever at a loss for employment in the future. The department is divided into sections, each of which is devoted to its own particular work. Commencing the tour of inspection at the boiler shop, the visitor may see huge sheets of copper and steel in course of treatment for conversion into boiler plates. Machines for bending the metal to the proper lines of curvature are ranged on one hand, and drilling machinery on the other, while on one side of the building stand, side by side, long lines of boilers in various stages of completion. This building measures about lOO by 50 feet. Twenty feet verandahs are added on each side. Overhead there is a crane with a lifting capacity of ten tons. This runs on overhead rails, and removes the heavy boilers from place to place as though they were mere 1C4 egg-shells. In addition to making boilers, they are here carefull}' tested and examined prior to being passed on for further additions. The next department is that of the blacksmith, where the usual routine of that class of work is carried out. There are four steam hammers here, each with a striking power of one ton. In convenient places at the ends of the building are placed two furnaces for smelting scrap iron. Thirty fires and anvils in various positions are used for the production of all smith work and wrought iron forgings in connection with the completion of the complex machines, so familiar to the travelling public. The fires are kept roaring by two " Roots " blowers. Close to these confined wind producers there is a hot iron saw. In all the furnaces and fires througfhout the VIEW OF JUBILEE HALL, FROM GARDENS, DURBAN. works, Natal coal is used and a considerable saving thereby effected in the finances of the department. The pattern shop is a particularly interesting sight. Within 105 its limits all models are made in wood, prior to being forwarded to the foundries to be cast in iron or brass. x^ftcr use, the models are stored on an upi)cr floor for future occasions. The place is fairly packed with huge wooden cog-wheels, curious angles and forms, and delicate works of all kinds. Being constructed of well-seasoned wood, they seldom warp, and once made, last for ever. Lea\ing the pattern shop, the foundry is next visited. This department is in two sections, one devoted to iron casting, the other to brass and white metal. No matter how large, how small, or how intricate the work of this kind, it can be done here with absolute precision, railway wheels alone excepted. The wheel shop next claims attention. In this depart- ment the imported wheel is dressed, and the huge steel axle pressed into its place by special hydraulic -machinery. The usual apparatus for grooving key seats are ranged in their due places. These are used both on the wheels and axles. It is interesting to watch the accuracy with which they cut and gouge the key seats of the axles, upon which the safety of passengers so much depends. The tin and coppersmiths' shops are in close proximity. In these shops all the lamps used on the railway are made and repaired, while steam pipes and items of that class are manufactured on the spot. The spring department follows. Here all springs are tempered, dressed and set. Specially constructed furnaces for evenly heating the narrow steel plates are located in the end of the building. The testing of springs is also most critically carried out here, and if travellers could but see what care is taken to avoid a breakdown or the slightest inconvenience on the road, the immunity from accidents enjoyed on the Natal railroads would be better understood. In the machine shop the sightseer will meet with a surprise, for amidst the buzz of wheels, the humming of belts, and the long vista of lathes, iron planes, drills, and such like inven- tions, he might easily imagine himself in some much older establishment. In this place the delicate fittings of white metal, copper, brass, steel, and iron are trimmed, drilled, turned, ic6 polished, and finished. Every department of metal work in connection with locomotives, wagons, and carriages is completed here. The whole of the machinery is driven by a vertical double cylindrical engine, made by that excellent firm of engineers, Messrs. Mitchcson and KoUhbrunner, of Umgeni, Natal. The erecting shop follows in natural sequence. In this place engines are dismantled, defective parts sent off to the proper quarters to be renewed or repaired, and when com- pleted are re-erected. The running shed is where the engines are placed to be got ready for final testing, whence they are sent out on their trial trip. After this has been satisfactorily accomplished, they are considered fit for working trains, and, in consequence, are handed over to be stabled in this shed, where they are cleaned, coaled, watered, and the fire kindled in due time to have a full head of steam on, when the time arrives for them to leave the shed to couple on to their train. A large engine when standing in this place, finished and ready for the road, is worth ;^2,500, and weighs 45 tons. The sight of the long lines of polished and finished machines, as they stand awaiting the orders of their controllers, is indeed an interesting spectacle. A peculiar romance attaches to them, for are they not, as it were, pioneers ? Each one standing on the fringe of civilisation, and prepared at a touch to speed out and bear with it the blessings of advanced culture to the very heart of the wildest land on earth. Leaving the metal department for the wood-working shops, the next point visited is w^here carriages, wagons, brakes and such like are made. Here in the saw mill, wood-working machines of various descriptions buzz and shriek. The air is filled with fine drifting sawdust, and dimly through it the busy forms of the workers can be seen. The main department consists of two large shops. The trimming and finishing sections follow. Then comes a large yard where the under-frames are made, examined, and renewed. Next to these is the general store, which looks like a large 108 wholesale ironmonger's warehouse. In the open air there is an engine hoist capable of lifting twenty-five tons. Here and there in the buildings, light running cranes are placed. Over and throughout the whole department, moving with mechanical regularity, and almost military precision, the workers perform their useful functions with silence and despatch. A good feeling prevails amongst all classes, and under their watchful chiefs and overseers, the men, while earning their own livings, serve the most vital necessities of the Colony efficiently and well. The rate of pay to journeymen ranges from ten to twelve shillings per diem, and monthly hands draw about sixteen pounds per mensem. The hours are from 6.30 a.m. until 8, when breakfast is had ; from 9 till i, then from 2 till 5, making eight and a half hours per day, and on Saturday work ceases at i o'clock p.m., thus making up a week of 48 hours. 109 SECTION X. DURBAN TO ISIPINGO. LEAVING the main station at about lo. lO a.m., the ^ train passes along the main trunk line of the Colony for four and a quarter miles, where, at the South Coast Junction it branches off to the southward. Between the main station at Durban and the stopping place at Berea Road, a distance of one mile and a quarter, the line traverses the town. Occasional glimpses down the cross streets into the bay are obtained. The tall spire of the Roman Catholic Chapel, and the two-storied blocks of buildings with their neatly finished and ornamented fronts, serve to accentuate the impression of progress, which could not but be forced on the mind while inspecting the town. Before arriving at the halting place already mentioned, the train passes under four substantial viaducts, and traverses the new deviation which has been carried out at a considerable expense. ■The high grassy banks of this new route are studded in summer with a peculiar bell-like white flower, on a slender drooping stem, which imparts beauty to even a monotonous section of the journey. After leaving the Berea Road Station, the train sweeps out through a most pretty and interesting panorama of scenery. On the right of the line, the Berea Range, with its dense woods, parks, and villas, is admirably seen. On the left, the West End Park with its curious vagaries of foliage is sighted. Many of the trees here are remnants of the wild African forests, that sixty years ago, or even less, sheltered herds of elephants and buffaloes. In the memory of many a colonist now living, these and other descriptions of large game have been hunted on this spot. Now, with the undergrowth cleared away, with gravel and cinder paths laid down in ovals and circles, the park will compare favourably with many a boasted pleasure resort of much older and pretentious lands. The scene here on a public holiday is one well worthy of mention. Thousands of happy looking people promenade VAGARIES OF FOL HeST END PARK. DUF to and fro, local brass bands discourse inspiriting music, athletic and other sports are held, while children's festivals are no unfrequent occurrence. Beyond the park, the route lies over an arm of the ba}', where at times of high tide the smooth water creeps in and forms wide lake -like stretches, studded with foliage, and oftentimes moving with wild fowl. The line at this point is thoroughly well-metalled and raised. On moonlight nights, when the tide is in, the effect of a brilliantly illuminated train, sweeping over this part of the route is most unique and picturesque. It is soon passed, and the train enters Congella Station. Congella, There is onl)- a Httle side shelter for passengers here, for from the traffic of the spot is hmited. Congella is, however, a place of most marked historic interest, for on the 23rd May, 1842, the Dutch and English at Natal fought a battle at this place. The British forces, under the command of an officer named Captain Smith, were encamped near where Durban now is. The Dutch, under General Andries Pretorius, assembled at Congella. On the night of the 23rd May, Captain Smith resolved to leave his entrenchments and attack the enemy in their own lines. Followed by 138 men bearing flint-lock muskets, and equipped with two small field pieces, he set out at eleven o'clock at night. His first move was a mistake, for in order to avoid marching through the bush and heavy sand, he took his men up the bay in boats, neglecting at the same time to note the state of the tide. Unfortunateh' for him, it was falling, and when he was within a few hundred yards of the Congella shore the boats grounded, and the men were obliged to get out and wade. Deprived of the assistance of their field pieces, and clad in heavy accoutrements, they were at disadvantage enough, but worse was to follow, for the Boers who had watched their every movement, were, to the number of several hundred, safely ambushed in the dense mangrove thickets which fringe the bay. The Dutch were armed with heavy " Roers," or hunting rifles, carrying bullets eight to the pound. The English had brought oxen with them to drag the gun carriages to the shore. When the Dutch opened fire every bullet told. The oxen, maddened by wounds, became unmanageable. Standing on the moonlit sands of the bay, the English offered clear marks for the enemy, while owing to the darkness of the mangrove jungles, the Dutch fought in absolute safety. Three hours afterwards, eighty-seven British straggled back to camp, out of the 138 who had left it. The Dutch treated their wounded foes with humanity, and next day allow^ed them to return to their camp. This says something for the inherent nobility of character which has ever been a marked feature in the history of the Dutch Pioneers of Natal. In ordinary times it is not difficult to be magnanimous, but when the red torch of war is alight, and men are braced to deeds of blood, perhaps for conscience sake, it is pleasant to find evidences of mercy and kindliness. On the evening following the battle, Richard King, a colonist, set off on his memorable ride for help to the Cape Colony. This act of heroism and bravery was afterwards rewarded by a grant from Government of the farm Isipingo. The story of Dick King's ride is one which appears in every history of Natal, and no doubt has had its influence in moulding the character of young Natalians, who have not been behindhand in more recent stirring incidents in South Africa's history. The Congella of to-day has scarcely altered its appearance. On the site of the old battlefield a small space of ground has been reserved for memorial purposes. Close by the edge of the bay, Mr. H. T. Tunmer and Mr. Parsons have established lime factories, for which they use the unlimited supply of shells to be found in the sand and mud of the bay floor. A little nearer Durban* a brick and tile factory has been erected, so the clay and soil of the old theatre of war are now being moulded and modelled into peaceful dwellings for the victorious descendants of the previously vanquished British. Leaving Congella, the train in a few moments arrives at Umbiio, the Umbiio Station, which, with its trim, well-kept gardens, from' ^^ presents quite a model appearance. At this point the banana, ^"'''-^n- pineapple, orange, naartje, and general vegetable producing country commences. On the left of the line, the lagoon of the Umbiio River lies hidden amongst a tangled jungle of mangroves, water booms, reeds and creepers. A firewood depot, for the supply of the Durban market, is established at the point where the tidal influence of the bay ceases. On the right, plantations of fruit and dwellings of settlers are closely packed for miles. Leaving Umbiio, and passing the strong iron bridge over "3 South ^^lie river of the same name, the train speeds towards South Coast '■ , Tunction, Coast JuHctioii, wherc the hue diver<^es. At this place, piles ^ from of new wood cases containin^^ fruit for the Johannesburg Durban, j^-);^,-]^^,^^ ^-.^^^•^ often be seen awaiting;" the up train on the main line. 'I'he South Coast Junction is also a sort of depot for railway material. Huge stacks of sleepers and rails, together with other curious forms in iron and wood, lie in readiness for use when occasion requires. On the left of the line a little Indian mosque, with a quaint dome surmounted by a crescent, presides over the largest Indian settlement in South Africa. For miles over the swampy flat at the head of the bay, the grass huts and the small garden patches of these industrious and useful people can be seen. From these gardens Durban obtains the bulk of its vegetable supply. The view to the right of the line, over the rounded hills studded with banana plantations and clusters of bush, is very interesting. L^irther on, to the north-westward of the Indian settlement, a peep at the wild bush land is obtained. The colour of the soil changes to bright red, and at Ciairmont, Clairinont Station the country oi3ens out to the westward in 5^ miles ■' i from broad verdant plains. Here also is a firewood depot. Passiner Durban. . , , . , , , • ^ this stopping place, the 'tram crosses the already mentioned plains, the view over which is bounded only by the Wentvvorth Ridge of Mountains. Here and there in summer pretty little lakes covered with lotus lilies afford shelter to wild duck, golden geese, and ibises. Houses are rare, and an occasional tented wagon with its long team of patient oxen may be seen slowly rumbling towards Durban, on its return from a trading trip into Pondoland. Merebank The next halting place is Merebank. The station here is a ^8 mi^cs simple shelter from the weather. Good shooting is obtainable Durban! in the vicinity. At this point the first sight of the southern sugar plantations is had. To the westward the base of the Bluff Range begins to blend with the rest of the country. To the north-west the Berea Ridge sweeps gracefully to the southward, and approaches the line, close to which are large fields of maize, and throngs of Indian cultivators can be seen labouring with hoes among the crops. Crossing the bridge 114 of the Umlaas River, the Reunion Sugar Estate, surrounded with its fields of cane, is passed. To the left a range of hills, known as the "False Bluff" of Isipingo, next comes in view. This range bears a striking resemblance to its namesake at the Port of Durban, the difference being that it is onl\' a few miles in length. The Isipingo Station forms the present terminus (1894) of the South Coast line. A survey is at present in course of progress from this point, through the country lying to the southward. The village of Isipingo is a busy spot, it being no unusual thing to see from twent}' to thirty wagons discharging their loads of sugar and other produce into the goods sheds, for transport to Durban. The village possesses one church, one chapel, a Government aided school, two hotels, a library containing about 2,000 volumes, and thirteen stores principally kept by Indians. The population, though somewhat scattered, is social and friend))-. In the gravc)^ard Isipingo, n miles from Durban. ROCKS NEAR ISIPINGO. is to be seen the tomb of the heroic Richard King, who, it will be remembered, was granted a farm in this district. To the eastward of the township, there is a lagoon which provides about three miles of boating. This stretch of water carries an average width of a hundred yards, and constitutes the principal attraction of the place. Pleasure parties may "5 hire boats for a few shillings. Good shooting is obtainable ; bush and red buck are to be had, wild duck, wood pigeons, doves, cranes and ibises abound, while fishing of first-class description can be enjoyed both in the lagoon and on the beach. Isipingo is one of the usual resorts of picnic parties. It is convenient to Durban, and the trip there and back can easily be accomplished in a day. A post cart leaves Isipingo every morning for Umzinto, a distance of forty-two miles south. The fare is twenty shillings, and the journey is done in three-quarters of a day. As the southern districts of Natal have already been dealt with in Section VII., it is unnecessary to carry the description of this route further. ii6 Sl<:CTION XI. DUKHAN TO UMGENI. IEAVIXG Durban, say by the 3.15 \).m. train, the _^ tourist will have ample opportunity of enjoying the scenery, visiting the small town of Vcrulam to the north of Durban, and returning to the sea[)ort the same night in comfort. Steaming out of the great archway of the main station at Durban, the tourist will ])ass o\-er a multitude of shuntings, and strike the open countr}- in the course of a few minutes. The first point of interest likely to arrest his attention is that populous suburb of Durban named Greyville. Neat little cottages and villas will pass in rapid review, Greyville while a school-house here, or a chapel there, seen for a ji niiies moment and then lost, proclaim the fact that the place, though ]')°"],,^„ only a suburb, is inclined to independence by creating its own social centres. At Greyville Station a momentary halt is made, a few passengers picked up, and then away again towards Stamford Hill, which is only a mile further on. Here a perfect throng of jjassengers alight and embark, for siamford Stamford Hill has a fair portion of .settlers. It is an old nijiJ^ f,-oin established hamlet, and many a comfortable cottage can be '^"'■'^=^"- .seen from the line, nestling among groves of trees and clinging creepers. The longer halt which is made here affords an opportunity of glancing out of the other side of the carriage, over the broad Durban flat, or as some call it, the Eastern vlei. The latter term is in a great measure a misnomer, for only a small portion of it can be termed a \lei or marsh. Though the soil of these fiats, like that of Durban, is for the most part made up of white sand, it nevertheless supports most luxuriously, beautiful and artistic clusters of various descriptions of trees, such as luiphorbia, Black Mimosa, Flat 117 I Crown, Date Palm, Ivory Palm, and Kafir Match, the last- mentioned being a kind of wood from which the natives make fire by abrasion. In addition to these, there is a large variety of wild flowers, ferns and bulbs. In that portion which is a marsh, numbers of arum and Natal lilies impregnate the air with their sweet odours, -Across VAV AND TRAFFIC BRrOGE OVER UMGENI RIVER. the flat, and between it and the sea, a dense belt of forest not only serves as a breakwind, but imparts a park-like and cultivated aspect to the scenery. This forest is composed of timber trees and stunted shrubs, many of which bear edible fruit, such as the amatungulu and other berries. Conveniently out of sight are the brickfields of Stamford Hill, from whose clay pits the greater part of Durban has been built. The two-storied corn mill of Mr. Bccket and the bonded stores and paraffin stores are the only items of interest in the two and three-quarter miles between Stamford Hill and Durban. The latter buildings are placed here by a wisely conceived Corpo- ris ration lj)-c-law. in order to niiniiiiise tlie risk of conflagration, should such a calamit}- — which is far from likcK' — ever overtake the town. I'mi^cni, Passing on towards Unigeni, the train in a few minutes fiom approaches a high wooded hill, from the summit of wliich ""^ ''^"' cujihorbia and candelabra cactus trees stand out with jjeculiar effect against the sky. This is the Umgeni Hill. Around its foot is the \illage of that name. It is a busy corner, and ]K)ssesses some fine buildings. Mr. Mitcheson's famed iron foundr)' is here, whence many a batter\- and engine have been sent forth to win golden wealth on the mines where the thread of Africa's destiny is being woven. From Mr. Mitcheson's foundry some capital machinery for local industries has also been turned out. Mr. Marshall Campbell, of the Mount ]-klgecombe Estate, has testified that the six lOO h.p. multitubular boilers, besides pumps, engines, etc., supplied to his company, gave entire satisfaction, and were about ecjual to the h>ome standard of work. Extensi\e wool-washing factories can be .seen on the other side of the line. Here, grease wool, i.e. fleeces fresh from the sheep's back, are cleaned of their impurities and compressed into close square bales for shi])ment home. Glancing eastwards from the crowded station platform, the eye for the first time escapes from the boundar)- of forest along the beach, and catches a glimpse of the blue Indian Ocean at the point where the river flows into it. This is a favourite resort of anglers and pleasure seekers. The lagoon or still pool, at the mouth, is barred from the sea by bush- studded sand hills. Wild fowl, sometimes .in dense flocks, come here to rest, and the weird ibis, the sacred bird of the Pharaohs, makes its home amongst the fastnesses of the seldom disturbed jungle. Turning to the westward, the tourist will see the famous stone quarries where the hard labour gangs of convicts arc forced to make the period of their incarceration useful to the community, by quarrying stone for street hardening, and harbour purposes. The Umgeni village is the northern outpost of the Durban borough. It has a small population, but considerable work is done there. The broad hard road which skirts the village, the three-storied coffee works buildinij, the bus)- clangour of the foundry, the commotion created by the convict gangs, the frequent arrival, departure, and passage of trains, combine to banish the reproach of sleepiness far from the spot. The Umgeni Ri\er, broad and studded v.ith reedy islands, is a pleasant feature in the scener\'. The massive iron railvva}' bridge, b)' its height and strength sufficiently denotes that when the stream is in flood, it is a formidable torrent. The little old-fashioned wooden traffic bridge beside the modern railway structure, forcibly recalls Burns' immortal poem on the " Twa brigs of Ayr." Were a modern poet to attempt a flight in this direction, he would be hard put to it for representative bogies. That difficulty, however, may be left witl) the poet of the future ; meanwhile, the station bell rings. A FOREST SCENE. the engine .shrieks, and whirling on with clang and clatter across the bridge, it plunges into Victoria County, where the tourist will find a revelation awaiting him with respect to Natal's local productions and manufactures. SECTION XII. UMGENI TO VERULAM. THE view up the Umgeni as the train crosses the raihvay bridge, is a fair sample of the scenery to be met with in the less interesting parts of the Colony. On the left of the line, Mr. Bishop's sugar mill and estate arc sighted, extending along the river's northern banks towards the Sea Cow Lake. Further on, mention will be made of the life work and efforts of this, and one or two other pioneer planters. Sea Cow Xhe Sea Cow Lake, though just out of sight, is yet within easy walk of the Umgeni Station, and can be visited. There are still a few hippopotami in it, but being royal game, the sportsman may only look and long. The lake is but a pond as far as clear water is concerned. The reed brakes surrounding it provide all the shelter the monsters require. '^'rooL On the other side of the line ]Mr. Buttery has his manu- factory for arrowroot. The article produced by him commands the highest prices in the London market. For over thirty years he has been engaged in this work, and appears now to have achieved that acme of excellence which has ensured success. Within recent times he has added all the latest improvements in machinery, even down to an oil engine — a great rarit\' in this Colony. A few miles further on, the estate of Mr. Chick is sighted. With one of the smallest sugar mills in the Colony, this planter has by his energy and economy held on despite evil times, thereby assisting to keep the sugar industry alive until a brighter era dawned. At this point it ma)^ be well, perhaps, to repeat the remarks made in the section on I'rocluctions. In connection with sugar especially, it is important to have clearly on record that it never failed in the Colon}'. The men who worked it in the early da\-s did, thous^h, and the reason is not far to seek. Ignorant of the technical requirements of the industry, both as regards the culture cjf the plant and its manufacture into sugar, they, solely through mismanagement and lack of know- ledge, were forced, with a few exceptions, to abandon the enterprise. The exceptions named, for thirty years or more have, as has been shown, achieved success by bitter experience ; a success which is thoroughly and well desen'ed. The names of the especial individuals alluded to are Mr. Bishop, Mr. Chick, Mr. Buttery, and Mr. Harrison whose estate will be referred to CUTTING SUGAR CANC. further on. There may be others whose names might have been mentioned in this connection, but they are not obtainable at the moment of writinsj. 123 (ireeii- Passiiifj Mr. Chick's Estate, the train sweeps into Greenwood wood ^ ^ .... I'aik, Park Station, which is principally remarkable for a fine old from tree which overshadows the whole place. Here Dr. Seaton 111 )an. j^^^ i^j^ residence, and Mr. F. \V. McEwan, a well-known landing agent at the Point, has made his home. The extent of the latter gentleman's horticultural efforts has gained him eulogy from all who have visited his plantation. Trees from almost every part of South, East, and Central Africa can be found here in thriving condition. The country around Greenwood Park was at one time densely wooded, and enough prime\-al forest remains to impart a distinct characteristic to the place. The Red Hill, through which deep railway cuttings have been made, has even yet a sprinkling of small game, while orchids, honeysuckle, mistletoe, and other familiar plants, together with sarsaparilla, nightshade and Canute, combine to remind the traveller that this is Africa and not Devonshire. Here and there a stra\- palm or curious cabbage wood tree adds point and character to the bush. The almost nude forms of the passing Natal-Zulus, with their plumes and girdles, complete the conviction that the traveller is indeed on the outer fringe of civilisation, but there is better beyond, so on again. Avoca, Very few miles be\'ond Greenwood Park, Avoca is arrived 8 miles ■^ ■' f'O"^ at. Here Mr. Harrison's sugar mill flanks the station, while Durban. . tt i i- i t-. • i i • ^i the quiet A\oca Hotel lies between. Beside the station, the Avoca Hall is located. Here the Freemasons have their meetings, Sunday services are held, and occasional concerts given b\' the widely-scattered inhabitants. There is no village, onl\' a 'iQ.w houses being clustered round the station. In the vicinity there are two sugar plantations — Mr. Harrison's and the Effingham Estate. The Natal Central Sugar Compan)''s Estate commences here. puffs Leaving Avoca, after two miles' steaming the train arrives Road, ^ ' ^ lo^ miles at Duffs Road, where the stone for the new qua}' at the Durban. Point already alluded to is being quarried and rough dressed. P'urther to the westward are some old-established estates, such as Milkwood Kraal, Osborne's, Sherran's and Isabelle's. There is a country store here, also a small Weslej'an chapel and graveyard, where sleeps man}- a staunch old colonist. 124 To the eastward of the station a lonij rouiiclecl hill named Mount Moriah can be seen, its slopes seamed with rf)ws of sugar cane. A few miles further on is the bridge over the Little I'liocnix .... Station, Umhlanga Ri\er, where the engmc stops to replenish its supph' 12 miles from I )urban. 1 ...^^ ,^ * .' r^R*' , , '■ ..^^j^ wsr »<«.■' 'IBB -■•y- lie ¥^W' ^^HH ^^^ CENTRAL SUGAF EDGECOMBE. of water. Here Phoenix Estate, the property of Mr. William Syke.s, is to be seen. The estate of Mr. Henry Binns, M.L.A., is in this locality. For the next few miles the train wends its wa)- through a country almost completely covered with the broad sword-like leaves of the sugar cane in all stages of growth, from tin}' little green .shoots to well-grown plants eight feet in height. Still on and on to Mount Edgecombe Station, which is completely overshadowed by the great factory of the Xatal Central Sugar Company. The original cost of this mill, machinery and estate was ;^ioo,000, but since tlien it has been largely added to. Its cane crushing capacit\- is 250 tons per diem during Mount I'Mge- combe, 14 miles from Durban. Central Mill. 125 the season, and from 20 to 25 tons of sugar arc manufactured per diem during the cutting or harvest season. To describe this important factor)- is no h'ght task. As one approaches it from the south, long sheds containing baagas (the refuse of the cane after the juice has been extracted) stand in ranges. Open spaces devoted to dr\ing this article, which is used for fuel, flank the sheds. Next to these is the tall chimne}'. ninety feet in height, beside which is the mill house. In front of the crushing door, in high piles, the uncrushed canes He await- ing treatment, while long lines of trucks with towering loads of saccharine- yielding canes, stand ready for discharge. A travelling table attended to by rows of coolies, bears a constant supph' of the canes to the rollers, which are just inside the entrance. These rollers are huge grooved iron affairs set in such a position as to extract the juice, and pass BUFFALO FALLS thc baagas out at the other side of the mill. The canes are crushed twice, to insure complete extraction. All this time a constant stream of juice is falling in a veritable saccharine cascade into the broad troughs prepared for its reception. 126 The grey, watery looking fluid then passes through the various processes of boiling, condensing, purifying, crystallizing, and finishing until it emerges in beautiful snow-white, golden yellow, or brown crystals. It is not necessary in this place to deal with the manufacture in detail, but the tourist will always find a hearty welcome at the hands of the energetic and kindly general manager, Mr. Marshall Campbell, or some of his people. The total acreage of this Company's estate is large, and the careful management, carried out on practical and economical lines, cannot fail to win approval from the most casual visitor. This mill turned out last year (1893), over 4,000 tons of sugar from its own and adjoining planters' canes. The estate employs 250 Kafirs, 1,500 Indians (men, women and children), and about thirty families of whites as managers, sub-managers, engineers, and artisans. The Mount Edgecombe Station, which is contiguous to the mill, discharged last year 11,496 tons of material, etc., equal to nearly double the trade of the whole North Coast line. A convenient hotel adjoins the Mount Edgecombe Station, where travellers viewing the country can obtain accommodation. On again through more cane fields towards Ottawa Station. Date- Shortly after leaving the last station, some fine specimens of date-palms are to be seen ; their delicate feathery foliage swaying gracefully in the breeze. The tangle of undergrowth, relieved as it often is by the gaudy costumes of the Indians, serves as a pleasant foil to the mind after the whirl and roar of the sugar factory. The fine groves of trees planted around this station serve Ottawa, , , ^, i6h miles to impart a pleasant aspect to the place. They were planted from by Mr. Anthony Wilkinson, a veteran settler and sugar planter, whose castle-like residence crowns the hill to the eastward of the station. His well-known mill and distillery are within easy walk. The next estate of note in the vicinity is that of the Hon. Mr. G. Sinclair-Smith, M.L.C., also a veteran planter, which lies to the eastward at the mouth of the Great Umhlanga River, where there is some beautiful scenery. 127 The lagoon here is navigable for pleasure boats for two miles, but the right of fishing is reserved by the proprietor. The next estate lies to the westward of the station. It is named " Trenance," and is the property of Mr. W. Sykes, whose " Phcenix " P'state has already been noted. This planter is an apt illustration of what hard, earnest, well-directed and long- sustained effort will do. From an overseer in the old days, he has, step b\' step, prospered, until he now owns one of the finest estates in the county, and is engaged in the erection of a large factory. The other estates worth}' of note in this district are " Muckle Neuk," which produces about ten tons per diem, "La Mercie," and Umhloti Central Mill and Estate. In this \icinity there are numbers of small Indian maize planters. These are men who have completed their indentured term of servitude, and now contrive to make fairly good livings by gardening. Several families of French Creoles from Mauritius have also settled here, and have erected neat little homes. 128 The Great Umhianga River, which meanders throuc^h the district, is great only in name. For the most part its water filters through the sand banks. Here and there pools containing a k'ind of sand bream occur. Leaving Ottawa, the train speeds i)ast an open bush- ^'<-•I■ulam, iQ:t niik'S studded country, under a forty-feet viaduct, and through a from tunnel of about 140 feet, at Kahtskop. This engineering work is from sixty to eighty feet under the surface. On emerging from it, and turning a bend in the line, a glimpse of the Umhloti Ri\er valley and the town of Verulam is obtained, and a moment after, the train steams into the station. In one and a half hour's travelling the igl miles between Durban and Verulam have been covered. In this space there are nine stopping jjlaces and one watering place. But for these necessary delays, the distance might be done in less than half the time. Those accustomed to rapid travelling in other lands must remember that this branch line has to meet the requirements of a much scattered population. At Mount Edgecombe, as a rule, cane trucks are shunted ; this accounts sometimes for several minutes' delay. At " Duff's Road " and " Phoenix," loaded cane trucks are picked up, and again the engine is delayed, so that, taken on the whole, the regulation time is far from bad. In an}- case, the tourist and sightseer has reason to be grateful to the stoppages, for the country teems with items of interest, and if onh- he keeps his c}'es and ears open, there is much to learn, both with respect to the beauty and productions of the county. Having landed on the platform at Verulam, the first and most grateful sight which greets the eye, is the comfortable two-storied Railway Hotel. Next comes the Wesleyan Chapel and Market Square, on the northern side of which is the Court House. There are five long parallel, and three cross streets in Verulam. Several little stores, and many dwelling houses line the main thoroughfare. V^erulam was founded in 1850. The fir.st house and store were built by Mr. T. W. Garland, M.L.A., whose eldest son was the first white infant born in the settlement. The 129 ori\al stale, war dances and barbarous festivals. If his temperance princii:»les are not, like the laws of the Modes and Persians, inialterable, he may partake of Kafir beer out of a real calabash, and recoij^nise in it the fla\our of stale yeast. In another section the natives and their w'a\-s will be touched upon, but at present a (ew hints as to how to visit the district ma)- not be out of jjlace. The journey must be made on horseback. Fairly good animals can be obtained in Verulam at a cost of ten shillings ])er diem ; a native guide will cost five shillings a day ; w^hile ten shillings invested in biscuits will insure him against priva- tion, as native diet is not always palat- able. An hour's ride will bring the traveller to the Mission Station al- ready men- tioned, where directions as to roads may be obtained. Two days wall l^e sufficient to cover the Inanda Range is about 2,500 feet above sea level, the blue sheen of which can be clearly seen from its summit. 134 SECTION XIII. VERULAM TO LOWER TUGELA. VICTORIA County is divided into two parts. From Umgeni River to Tongaat River is termed the Inanda Division ; from Tongaat River to the frontier is termed the Lower Tugela Division. Verulam is the magisterial centre of the former, and Stanger of the latter. In the very near future, it is hoped a railway line will be constructed from Verulam to Stanger, and in all probability beyond it into Zululand. At the present time the journey from Verulam to the frontier, a distance of forty-four miles, is performed by post cart. The trifling fatigue of the trip will be more than repaid by the interest and beauty of the country. Standing at Kahts Kop, and looking north-eastward, the eye ranges over a wide field of hill and vale scenery. Away in the blue distance are the Tea Plantations. Further to the eastward, sugar estates and mills, fitted with the latest improvements in machinery, are located. Small farmers and Indian settlers occupy nearly every available inch of the district, which is traversed in all directions by good roads. The post cart service, which starts from Verulam, is subsidised by Government, and the name of the popular contractor, Mr. John Welch, is as well known in Natal as that of Shakespeare. Wherever there is a railway terminus, there will be found the strong high-wheeled carts and wagonettes with their prancing teams of well-fed and groomed horses. Punctual to the hour of noon the bugle sounds, the reins are gathered up, and with a clatter of 135 K2 hoofs, the team plun_<;es off across tlie market square, along the main street, and into the weir of the Umhloti River, where, amidst flying spray and bright water, the cart crosses the stream. For a few miles the road is bordered by hedges. Here and there a tall euphor- bia, with its mournful spines, or a flat -topped white mimosa tree, rem- nants of the original for- ests, cut into the sky ; but on the whole, cu 1 tivation TOBACCO PLANTATlOr prevails, and the so-called " Loneland " looks very much the reverse of its late general appellation. Fuller's Hill, a long gradual ascent, raises the cart to an elevation of about 400 feet above Verulam, of which a good view is obtained. Fuller's Flats next come into sight, and for some miles the route lies through a bush-studded, fertile and beautiful region. Away to the eastward, the factory of the Tongaat Central Sugar Mill can be seen. This mill is fitted with the very latest and best description of machinery and, being under able management, is certain to prove an acquisition to the sugar industry of the Colony. 1^,6 Victoria Villai^c is located on the furtlicr side of Fuller's Flats, where Host Smith of the Chelmsford Hotel, with his genial kindliness, will be ever ready to afford all necessary information to the enquirer who seeks a more detailed acquain- tanceship with the countr}-. \''ictoria is no imposing city, but it presents a fair type of a small South African settlement — some few cottages, two hotels, a church, a school, and a straggling street, the onl)' enlivening element of which is the daily passage up and down of the Lower Tugela post cart. After a short halt, and dropping the required number of letter bags, the mail cart sweeps on again towards Tongaat River, which is crossed on a strong iron bridge. Having passed this point, the road leads through sugar-cane fields and scrubby bush to the Fairbreeze Hotel, where a branch highway strikes off to the westward. This branch of the main road crosses the Noodsberg Range of Mountains and leads to Gre}'town, which is fort}'-fi\'e miles north-east of Maritzburg. The Insuzi River and Falls are notable sights on the way, while the cave near the Mission Station is worthy of a visit. A romancer might well cast the scene of his story at this spot, for it is indeed one of Nature's freaks. A tall pillar of rock, something like an obelisk, stands upright at one end of the cavern, the roof of which consists of one stone, which must ha\e a weight of two or three thousand tons. Several hundred men could easily find shelter in the main chamber. Owing to its extreme dryness there are no stalac- tites, but the curious and Druidical effect is impressive. Passing on from Fairbreeze Hotel, the Compensation Flats, which are most beautiful, are crossed, and the Umhlali River sighted. The stream is broad and shallow. A few miles above the road it affords capital sport for the angler. P'or some miles the countr)- in the vicinity of the Umvoti becomes ideal. Just south of this latter river, there is a place named Chaka's Kraal. It was here that this terrible manslayer, who has been termed the Napoleon of Africa, had one of his military outpost settlements. A few miles further on, at Stanger, the site of his capital, and the place of his assassination, may be visited. ^7 Rico. Five miles from Chaka's Kraal, in a westerly direction, is the Reit Valley Estate, where Mr. Essery has a plantation of hill side and swamp rice. From about lOO acres he has this )-ear reaped i,ooo full bags of grain of good qualit}'. The cultivation of this article of produce is calculated to be of the utmost importance to the Colony, for the necessary Indian has an axcrsion to maize as a staple article of diet. The result is that " coolie," or brown rice, has to be imported in large quantities. In this connection it is interesting to know that many small Indian farmers plant and prepare swamp rice with equal success ; the yield of the latter being about the same. Although Natal has but k\v swampy districts, Lower Zululand, in the ^•icinity of Port Durnford and St. Lucia Bay, will doubtless in time be utilised for the production of this most important cereal. Mr. Essery has erected efficient machinery for cleansing and husking the grain. It is to be hoped that other producers will follow his excellent example, and that in a few years the importation of rice will cease. staUo°" ^^ Umvoti there is an extensive Mission Station and sugar mill, the latter being endowed by Government, and conducted exclusively by Christianised natives. About 300 acres are planted in cane, and about 150 to 200 tons of sugar are annually produced. Fort}' hands are employed on the estate. Six schools are attached to the mission in the vicinity. No industrial training is gi\-en to the natives, yet somehow with Christianity, they appear to imbibe a certain amount of mechanical skill. Fifty or sixty square, well- built houses have been erected by them. The Umvoti Ri\er is a broad, shallow and picturesque stream. After passing it, the road widens, and with a tremendous batter of hoofs, the team " lays out " in order to arrive at Stanger, the usual resting place. Stanger. The first sight which greets the eye is that of the new Government School-house, which is being erected at a cost of i^2,500. It is just outside the township of Stanger, and if that settlement produces a juvenile population large enough to fill it within the next few years, there will be no fear for 138 the future of the " City of the T\-rant." Stanger is certainly one of Natal's historic spots, for it is built on the ver)- ground formerly occupied by Chaka's capital. From this jjlace, the conqueror, the scourge, and the jM'ide of all South African natives, issued his mandates of life and death. From here, he, with despotic sway, ruled the country, almost from the Limpopo in the north to the Umtata in the south. Here too it was that the usual fate of the tyrant overtook him, and he fell, slain by the spears of his own kinsmen. Old natives tell the story of how, wearied by his tyranny, and terrified by his bloodthirstiness, his own wives originated the plot f o r his assassination, and using the ambition of Din- gaan, his brother, they struck sud- denly, and in the absence of one named Kodwa, who was his constant com- panion and trusted servant. Chaka's private kraal was situa- ted a few hun- dred yards east- ward of the J .. r- CAVE AT INDUMENI. present site of Mr. Knox's hotel and store, and the scene of his death and burial place is a few yards further on. The Stanger of to-da\' is very different from the " Duguza," as it was, and still is, called by the 139 natives. Now a peaceful little township with a market square, flanked b\- hotels and stores, replaces the military huts with their throngs of plumed warriors. Round the grave of Chaka, a few erven have been reserved b}' Government for a park and public resort in future da)-s. The place was named after Dr. Stangcr, the first Surveyor- General of Natal. It has a strongly built Laager and Court House, two hotels, two churches, a Masonic Lodge which cost jC/SO, a population of about 130, and serves as the centre of a large and prosperous district. It is five miles from the sea, twentN' -eight miles from Verulam, and sixteen miles from the drift of the Lower Tugela. Two and a half miles to the south- ea.-rtward is the well-appointed Sugar Factory and Estate named " Gledhow," the property of Colonel Addison. Four miles further along the road is the New Guelderland Sugar Mill. At the mouth of the Umvoti River, seaside cottages can be hired, and good fishing and fair shooting are obtainable in the season. Sixteen miles beyond Stanger, the broad Tugela, already so frequently mentioned, flows into the sea. Tea. A five-mile drive from Stanger, in a north-wester!}' direction, will bring the traveller to the ver\- centre of the Tea Plantations. The drive from Stanger to the wideh- known Kearsney Estate, is replete with artistic enjo\-ment, the road wending through an open rolling countr}-, which in places would require no culture to constitute a park. Presently the stately mansion of Mr. J. Liege Hulett, J. P., M.L./\., is sighted, and the park-like impression made b\' the wild country, here becomes a reality ; for as the house is approached through long and beautifully kept avenues, the mind calls up recollections of the homeland. Ever}'where, e\"idences of careful and artistic culture are apparent. The fields of tea plants, hedged in b}- break-winds of tall trees, look like pleasure grounds. Bowered in its wealth of tinted foliage and flowers, the house presents as pleasant a sight of its kind as can be had in Natal. It is two-storied, surrounded b\' balconies, the fronts of which are ornamented with light ironwork. A tower, fift\- feet in height, decorates one front. The central hall, and in fact the whole of 140 the interior of the house, impresses the mind most favourably. The Estate has been formed into a Limited Liabihty Com|)an\% witli a capital of ^,"50,000, under the style and \EARSNEY ESTATE. title of J. L. Hulett & Sons, Limited. Three plantation.s constitute its |)roperty, the total area of which is 10,000 acres ; 600 acres of this are under tea. The three plantations are named Kearsney, Kirkley Vale, and Ruhver. These again are subdivided and named. One of the plantations is to be put under sui^ar, and a factory erected next year. Of other Tea Estates in the neic;hbourhood, the following are the principal : — (a) W. R. Hindson & Co., Limited, with an acreage of about 3,000, capital ^^50,000 ; 500 acres or more in tea. The Company's properties consist of the following Estates : Clifton, Cobham, Xonoti Peak, and ]^uri)ham. (/;) The next estate is that of S])rowstown, the property of Mr. T. E. Pechey, who has just started a factory on his 141 own account, having; previously sold his leaf in its raw state to the Kearsney J'^actory. This estate at the time of writing was still in its initial stage, and had only about i8o acres under plants, mcjst of which were immature. The plantation possesses about 900 acres in all. (c) The ne.xt estate is that of Mr. F. W. Clayton, with 600 acres, 120 of which are under tea. The leaf from this estate is also manufactured at the Kearsney Factory. (<•/) Mr. George A. Clayton follows with an estate of 600 acres, 100 of which are planted, he also disposing of his leaf to the Kearsney Factory, (r) Mr. B. Balcomb, out of 600 acres, has only 60 under tea, but here especial attention and interest are centred, for an experiment is being tried as to whether high-class or scientific methods are in the long run more payable than the ordinary style of farming. This estate also manufactures its tea at the Kearsney Factory. (/) Mr. H. Balcomb has an estate of 600 acres, over 100 of which are under tea. Most of the plants here are just com- mencing to \-ield leaf, which is sold to the Kearsney Factory. (^^) Mr. Behrmann has an admirable little plantation of 50 acres of tea on a 600-acre farm, he also selling his leaf to J. L. Hulett & Sons, Limited. (//) The neatly managed estate of 400 acres, owned by Captain Malan, R.N., comes next, with 45 acres of tea plants, the leaf of which is also sold to the Kearsney Estate. (/) Mr. F. Thring, on a 600-acre estate, has 40 acres under tea, and disposes of his leaf as the others do. (j) Mrs. Schram, on a 500-acre farm, has about 40 acres planted. (/') Mr. Sime has over 50 ; both of these latter manu- facture at Kearsney. (/) A few miles over to the eastward, is the estate of Mr. Lediboer, who has 100 acres under crop, and has erected a compact factor}-. (;//) Mr. A. Colenbrander, of Nonoti, has about 100 acres of plants, and manufactures his tea at Mr. Lediboer's establishment. There are two or three other planters who manufacture in 142 a rather primitive manner. The total area of plants owned by these latter will be about 1 50 acres. Tea was first introduced into Natal in the \-ear 1850 by Mr. Plant, the first Curator of the l^otanical Gardens at Durban. Owing to his untimely death, no progress, however, was made in the culture of the plant. About the year 1863, sex'cral persons made an attempt at tea culture, notable amongst whom were Mr. George Jackson, Duikerfontein, Umgeni ; and Mr. J. Brickhill, of the Umbilo. In no instance has there been an\' fiiilure in the growth of the plant. About the }-car 1877 Mr. J. Liege Hulett first turned his attention to the industry, and, aided by the kindness of the late Mr. J. Brickhill in obtaining plants in India, and the care of Captain Reeves, of the S.S. " Umvoti," in bringing them safely to Natal, he succeeded in obtaining an established stock of 1,200 plants ; while Mr. W. B. Lyle, of Kirkley Vale, induced four or five hundred ])lants to li\e and thrive. In the spring of 1879, or two years after planting, Mr. Hulett took his first leaf, and manufactured it. The following notes on the plant and its manufacture may be of interest to those requiring information on the subject. It is three years before the seedling yields leaf, but it is fully six years before it attains maturity. The life of the plant continues for an indefinite period, provided climate and soil are congenial to it. The land should be kept in cultivation by regular weeding, digging between the plants, and manuring. The measure of success likely to attend the planter in this department of industry, as in all others, depends on the care, skill, and observation devoted to the task. The }'ield when at maturity should be from 900 to 1,000 pounds per acre. The fresh plucked or green leaf should amount to about four times that weight. The young leaves and shoots are plucked by hand, and transported to the factor)', where the weight should invariably be checked. The term " h'lush " is applied to the appearance which a field assumes when the plants ha\e thrown out a number of light green leaves and shoots. When these have been plucked and landed in the factory, the first or withering process is carried out. This consists of spreading 143 them thinl\- on canvas racks, wooden floors, or trays until they are Hmp. The quality of the tea greatly depends on the leaf being }'oung, succulent, and evenly withered. The period of this process of course depends on the weather, but as a rule the leaves picked one day, are manufactured on the next. The second process consists of rolling ; this is carried out b\' passing the limp and withered leaf through a machine consisting of a rotary table with rotary running box, made either of granite, marble, or wood, the upper one of which moves with a circular sweep close enough to the lower or bed-plate to partially crush and crumple the leaf The purpose of this is to disintegrate the juice cells. When this is done, the leaf has the appearance of a green sticky mass. It is then put I ! '. Close at hand in the various one-story buildings, the visitor will be astonished to find, hard at work, joiners and wagon builders, tailors and fitters, printers and book-binders, lithographers and photo- graphers. In the midst of all these are the community's private quarters, the church, dormitor}% and refectory. On the outskirts of the village, facing towards the west, arc the school and mission buildings. On the south side is an asylum for all such as love the cloister or monastic life, but who for want of true avocation feel themscKes unequal •55 to the vows of the rcL^nilar monks. 'l"hc monastic estate consists of about 7,000 acres o( land. About fifteen miles of good road ha\e already been made, and numerous dams constructed for the preserxation of water. Su/' sitoitio is the Trappists' motto, and however divergent one's religious views may be from theirs, it is but bare justice to them to say that in their silence they have laboured, and their labour has brought fortli plentifully. Leaving Pinetown, the line skirts the lower part (jf the settlement for some distance, and then commences the ascent ^NTZ KLOOF. Kranti- of Field's Hill, where, at Krantz Kloof Station, the country Kloof, 22i miles assumes an entireU' new appearance. Broad, grassy and from » 1 1 •- Durban, roundcd hills seamed with deep ravines and belts of dark- Ak. 1,808 ft. ^ tinted forest, replace the semi-tropical foliage which prevails between Pinetown and Durban. White fogs and cool bracing breezes prevail in this locality. The fruits of Bellair and Malvern no longer thrive, while cereals and vegetables, such •56 CAR PINETOWN. as oats, potatoes and forage, form the staple articles of produce. I'Vom the line there is but scant promise of the magnificent scenic splendours to be enjoyed in the vicinity. To the left of the railw.'i}- there are sc\cral deep fissures and glens whose existence would never be suspected by the stranger. To the right, however, and scarcely three miles away, the valley of "Crowned Cliffs" lies hidden. A few minutes' walk from the station reveals as grand a panoramic treat as is presented anywhere in South Africa. Step by step, as the traveller advances, his admiration will increase until at the Inkutu River the climax is attained. Towering on either hand are great mountains with cliff- crowned summits. Between them, blue with distance, yawning chasms open out, in some cases considerably over i,ooo feet deep. Forest on forest, cliff on cliff, roll off into the far distance, while through it all winds the Umgeni River. Standing on the wind-swept hills, the eye is fairly dazzled and confused by the majesty and beauty of the scene. In the middle distance a pillar of rock, close upon 800 feet in height, stands like a sentinel watching over the sweet realm of stately solitude. Away in the far depths, the feathery foliage of palms can be seen, while tumbled masses of rock, in some cases weighing thousands of tons, lie scattered about as though but freshly cast from Nature's mould. At times, droves of baboons gambol past, and far off in the forests, slinking leopards and hyjenas have their lairs. Now and then, with a batter of hoofs, a bush buck sweeps by, while overhead, on motionless wings, great African eagles sail slowly across the view. No tourist in Natal should neglect to visit this localit)'. The prevailing opinion to the effect that African scenery is monotonous, would speedily pass away, could those who often hastily condemn, but spend a week in this vicinity. As there are no hotels in the neighbourhood, provisions and carriers should be brought by train. Tents are also a neccssit}', and it would be well for intending tourists to obtain guides in Pinetown. At least a week is required to even approximatel)' grasp the extent and beauty of the region. 158 As most of the country is owned cither b\- the Natal Land and Colonization Company, Limited, Mr. Field, or Mr. Gillitt, it is necessary to obtain permission before shooting can be enjoyed. Nearly all the bucks and <;amc-fo\vl e.xtant in Natal may be found here, while in the Umtjcni, capital fishintj can be had. Leaving Krantz Kloof, the line passes through a distinctl}' pastoral country, seamed with trim looking stone dykes, and occasional extensive plantations of black- wattle and eucalyptus. Giiiitt's, 24? Gillitt's Station is in a lonely situation, the only point miles from _. , , i-i -i riii ourban. of uitercst about the country bemg the residence ot the land- Alt. 1,969 ft. r 1 1 • 1 • owner from whom the station takes its name. F:mberton. Hcrc, again, there are no points of interest worthy of note. 25i miles . ' from As a rule the train stops but for a moment, and then passes Durban. ^ . Alt. 2,062ft. on to Botha's Hill, which is considered half-way to Maritzburg. Botha's Hill, As the train approaches this station, some of the heaviest 31J miles ., • • -NT 1 1 /" 1 1 -11 1 from railway cuttings in JNatal are passed. Great rock}- hills have Durban. -ii ir- • /-11 -Mt. 2,424 ft. either been cleft in twain or faced down, and sweeping round the curves it appears at times as though the carriages would be dashed against the cliffs. There is, however, no fear of this, as for years the line, even in periods of heavy pressure, has been managed with scarcely an accident of anything like a serious description. Winding and turning, the road sweeps on, banked on one side by towering precipices, and on the other by as wild and beautiful a region of rugged mountains as can be anywhere observed. The configuration of the country is unique, and viewed in the early morning, when the clouds are slowly folding their wings and withdrawing from the scene, the spectator will be forced to admit that no railway line in Africa can present in such a short distance so many scenic charms of such a marked and characteristic description. Standing on the platform at Botha's Hill Station and facing eastward, the eye ranges over a veritable cauldron of peaked and contorted mountains. Here and there, belts of forest can be seen, while rivulets, oftentimes hidden by the foliage, flow from every hill. In the valley, which for the most part is a 160 native rescnc, there are many tribes located ; and the tourist would do well to pack up a few days' provisions, secure a trustworthy guide, and march down to \isit the kraals of, say, the Bango tribe, whose portly and popular chieftain c\er extends a courteous welcome to the white traveller. Should the tourist be a master of the camera, he will come out of the region with a sufficient stock of artistic negatixcs to make up an album of views which will delight all who see it. A few beads or cheap pocket knives are sufficient recompense to models, whilst a judiciousl}- bestowed shilling on some of the old kraal mothers will ensure a kindh' reception, not only to the tourist himself, but to those who follow him. When Natal posses.ses a picture gallery of her (jwn, or when the number of colonists has increa.sed sufficienth' to make the pursuit of oil painting from nature lucrative, this district is certain to become one of the most popular artistic resorts in South Africa. As a matter of fact, this broken region is a continuation of the Krantz Kloof district, already described. The same description of country continues for many miles, until it culminates near Maritzburg in the grand cliffs of Table Mountain. To the westward of Botha's llill the countr}' is wild and picturesque. At this point the granite base of Natal comes to the surface, and the hills in every direction are dotted with huge blocks and slabs of good workable rock. Three miles be\-ond Botha's Hill, the train passes through the Inchanga tunnel. Though this excavation is but short, it is a well executed piece of work, lined and faced throughout with hewn granite. The dimensions of the tunnel are 15 feet 6 inches in height, 14 feet 6 inches in width, and 70 feet in length, lunerging from it, the line continues to run through a mountainous country for a few miles further, to the Inchanga Station. At this point a deviation has recently been made in the Inch.^nga, . . . M niiles line, in order to avoid a chasm which was formerlv bridged <"'^'" ' - ° Durban. by a lofty iron structure. au. 2,063 ft. A comfortable hotel is established close to the station, and the scenery in the vicinity is of a fine description. At the refreshment bar here meals are served, and sufficient time 161 1 #* '■??'^'^ i %¥- * ■<'• -■ ' ■■■ ^,^# i^l allowed to partake of them. Every convenience for both male and female passengers is also provided, and the greatest possible care observed in all details affecting the comfort of the travelling public. At the Cato Ridge Station the change in Natal's agricul- JJ/^^^^^^e. tural products may be regarded as marked and complete. L,n"ban. Farms may be seen to the right and left of the line, and a au. 2,469ft. fair amount of Colonial produce is loaded up here. At this point on the journey the climate has completely ^^^p^"" changed to temperate. The sub-tropical products of the coast jS/JJJ''" have been left behind entirel}-. Oats, forage, potatoes and ^l^^X^^^^^^^ beans form the staple products of the land, and the market centre of the district is Maritzburg. The open meadow-like country distinctly proclaims it an agricultural locality. At the road crossings the robust-looking farmers, oftentimes mounted on stout, well-built cobs, convey the impression that an open-air life in this latitude is as healthy as remunerative. Though there are here, as elsewhere, men who fail, and in their failure rail at the country, it is pleasing to be able to place on record that honest and skilful agricultural effort has in this place met with a fair measure of success. The history of Camperdown is an interesting one. The farm from which the place takes its name, thirty-two years ago, was owned by Mr. Vanderplank, senior. In those early days it was no easy matter to obtain tenants or to utilise the land in any way. In order to induce settlement the owner cut his land up into small holdings and let them out to eligible farmers for five years free of rent, on the condition that they beneficially occupied and dwelt on their areas. At the expiration of this period the ground could be leased for a term of twenty years at the rate of two shillings and sixpence per acre per annum. Mr. William Thrash, now of Maritzburg, was about the first settler. Messrs. Thomas and Joseph l^lllerker were the next, and one by one others followed, until in the district there are now about forty occupied and prosperous farms. Land is now valuable and much sought after. umiaas In the vicinity of Umiaas Road Station there is a siding ^j^'^'jies called after Mr. C. E. Thrash, J. P. This farmer has shown \'Zh^„^ Alt. 2,606 ft. 163 especial enterprise and determination in working up a milling industry, and from the smallest imaginable beginning has now a large and constantl}' increasing yearly turnover of produce. To the right of the line, Table Mountain, already alluded to, and its companion hill of conical form called Spitzkop, come into fair view, and promise something out of the common in the scenic line. Here, as at Krantz Kloof, the botanical and entomological student will find a rich field awaiting him. Almost every species of fern, bulb, shrub or flower indigenous to South Africa, thrive in their wild state amongst the cliffs and rocks ; while deer, game-birds, insects and reptiles can be easily studied and captured by those interested in this department of natural history. This little station, which lies on the right of the line, may Manderston, ' •-> ■' 54^ miles be classed with the last, it being only a few miles distant. rj°"ban New Leeds is another scattered, yet fertile locality. The ^''- 2.863ft. characteristics of the country are exactly similar to those of ^^^n^s*'^^' Camperdown. As the train passes over the wide meadows, ^°7ban. with their light green fields of forage, and darker patches of ^''•^'9'5'^'- potatoes, or through long miles of yellow maize, the grumbles which are oftentimes heard from those who cultivate the soil, are apt to be regarded rather as the passing humours resulting from a bad harvest or two, than as having any foundation in solid fact. As at Camperdown, the staple products of the district are forage, potatoes, mealies, French beans, and general garden produce, while dairy and other departments^of farming are well in evidence. In summer, Sidonian oats grow well, and yield from thirty to forty hundredweight of oat hay per acre. In winter, Cape oats thrive, and give about twenty hundredweight per acre. Potatoes are largely grown, yielding, under the favourable climatic influences of the district, from twenty -five to fifty sacks per acre, according to the season. A little village has sprung up in this locality. A hotel Richmond Road, flanks the station, and a double-storied bacon and ham 59i miles from factory adjoins it. Durban. ■^ -' . Alt. 3,006 ft. A few miles out there are several well-appointed and prosperous stock and agricultural farms, notable amongst which is that of Mr. Joseph Baynes, M.L.A. This gentleman 165 M has shown a prosj^rcssive and cntcrpn'sinc^r spirit, and has done mucli to raise farming in the Colon}- from a haphazard venture, to a scientific and lucrative branch of industry. One of Mr. Welch's post carts starts every day (Sundays excepted) from the station for the village of Richmond, fifteen miles distant, thence to Lower Umzimkulu and Harding. The journey is accomplished in a day and a half, and the fare is £2 5s. The township of Richmond forms the centre of a highly cultivated and prosperous district. It possesses one hotel, two chapels, and a Government school Tho.se desirous of making an overland trip to Pondoland, will find this route the most convenient in every respect. Fox Hill Station next claims attention. This locality may be regarded as a suburb of Pietermaritzburg, and possesses, in Fox Hill, 63^ miles from I )urban. .Alt. 2,810 ft. OF RAILWAY STATION, AARITZaURG, addition to a few well-managed farms, .several substantially built country residences. Away to the right of the line, Table Mountain still towers over its rugged and beautiful 167 rcaliii, wliile slit^litl}- furtlicr to the eastward the district of Thornville can be seen. As will be apparent from the altitudnial side notes, the line is now descendin<^. The climate is becoming slighth' warmer in consequence ; while trees, mainl}- of the black mimosa species, are plentiful. To the left of the line, the broad and wide valley of Slang Spruit lies spread out for miles. Dotted here and there over it are small farms, while Kafir kraals can be descried in many directions. Most of these natives are tenants of the farmers, and, in addition to the Government hut tax of fourteen shillings per hut per }'ear, pa\- a rental to the landowners. It has been remarked by many of those who have to do with the natives, that the individuals thus bearing a heavier burden of taxation are less troublesome, and altogether more amenable to law and order than those in the locations. Whether this arises from the habits of industry rendered necessary by the extra calls upon their earning powers or not, is a problem which need not be dealt with here. Shortly after leaving the last station, the city of Pieter- maritzburg comes partially into view. It lies under the noble Zwaartkop Range of Mountains, and with its long stretches of tree-bordered steeets, crowned by the ruddy tower of the Town Hall, with here and there a white building to relieve the dull red glow of the tiled roofs, it forms a pleasant and interesting spectacle. This is the capital of the Colony, the headquarters of the military, and the historic centre whence has spread the culture which is so apparent throughout the whole of the land. The fu route peep obtained of the city is soon cut oft" b\' dense groves of trees. Umsindusi, Umsindusi Station is located in a ijerfect forest of cultivated 68 miles _ -^ from trees. A few suburban villas have been built in the vicinity. Durban. _ _ Alt. 2,132 ft. The river of Maritzburg, which gives its name to the station, flows close by, and is bridged by an iron structure of one span of 100 feet. A little distance further on it becomes patent that the city is not far off, for on the right of the line, far as the eye can reach, plantations are in sight. To the left, the slopes upon which Fort Napier is built, cut off the view. Presently the Maritzburg College in its wide and well kept park is passed. 168 Close to it, the city residence of the Premier, Sir John Robinson, K.C.M.G., can be seen in its dark shelterini^ groves. To the westward and overshadowing the cit}-, the Town Hill or Zwaartkop bounds the view. At intervals, deep kloofs or valleys arc visible. Some of these constitute fashionable INTERIOR OF RAILWAV STATION. MARITZBURG. holiday resorts, amongst them being the Chase, and Town Bush Valley. In the latter spot the elements of enjoj'ment have been lavishly provided by Nature. Cascades, forests, plantations, tree-bordered walks and open meadows leave nothing to be desired. While these facts are being noted, the train whirls on through countless evidences of advancement. At frequent intervals, the white gates of the road crossings are passed, each gate being presided over by a turbaned Indian, waving a green flag. This latter has nothing to do with the Moslem faith, it being used exclusively for railway signalling purposes. 169 Maritzliurg, 70J miles from Durban. Alt. 2,218 ft. To the left now, Fort Napier dominates the Hne, while on the ritjht, gHmp.scs down long placid- looking streets are obtained ; then with a prolonged shriek the train slows down and steams under the groined roof of the finest completed railway station in Natal. The station is situated at the top of Church Street, and is constructed of brick, with stone facings. The booking hall is 50 feet by 34, and has conveniently placed booking and telegraph offices constructed in highly finished woodwork. Gentlemen's and ladies' first-class waiting rooms with lavatories and retiring rooms, together with a general waiting room, open from this hall. The platform is 400 feet long, and is covered RAILWAV STATIOr n ARITZBURG. with two 30-fcet spans of segmental steel roofing. At each end there is a dock siding for the despatch of local trains. To the left of the booking hall are the refreshment rooms, with large dining room and bar, and to the right are the cloak room and parcels office, together with the offices of the district superintendent, inspector, etc. The upper floor contains quarters for the refreshment room attendants, as well as local offices for the general manager and other officials. On the other side of the line and close to the station, there is a large engine shed fitted with a double line of rails, and capable of holding twenty-two locomotives. A commodious coal shed adjoins this, together with a blacksmith's shop. Two large goods sheds are provided for the reception and despatch of merchandise. Beside these, the military authorities have two extensive buildings devoted exclusively to their service. Standing at the main exit of the station, overlooking the town, a view down the length of Church Street is obtained. As many of the buildings in the immediate vicinity of the station date from the earliest days of Maritzburg, they do not strike the eye pleasingly, but further down the street, in the business portion of the city, there are numerous fine and lofty structures. To the right of the street and close to the station. Government House is located. In the ne.xt section the city will be as full}' described and treated as space will allow. 171 SECTION XV. riKTERMARITZBUKG. ITS HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION. 7^JIRKK-0UARTERS of a century ago, the Kafir tribe of Abakwamacibise occupied the lands which are now the borough of Pietermaritzburg. Scattered by the war of extermination and conquest in which Chaka laid waste the whole of Natal, the tribe has never become reorganised. Twenty years later, a party of emigrant Dutch, discontented with the l^ritish Government in the Cape Colony, entered Natal under the leadership of Pieter Retief and Gert Maritz. The thrilling story of the trials and sufferings of this courageous band of pioneers, the bloody massacre of a large number of the part}- b\- Dingaan, and the name W'eenen (weeping) given by the Boers to the localit)' where the massacre occurred, are well-known features in the histor\- of the Colony, and will be described in due course. The insecure and unsettled condition of the country, and the apprehension of being attacked by the Zulus, induced many of the emigrants to form townships and settle in them in preference to occupying farms where they would be exposed to constant dangers. The central position and natural advantages of what is now Pietermaritz- burg attracted large numbers, and it was soon apparent that Boschjesman's Rand (Bushman's Ridge), as it was then called, was a site admirably adapted for the seat of Government and the capital of Natal. A Council of the People (\'olksraad) ha\-ing been elected in 1839, ^^''^ name Pietermaritzburg was given to the cit\' in commemoration of the two oriijinal leaders 172 If IT" '^9 < P • ^ « UL ! • K , < P^ ,*-3 M of the expedition, both of whom had died in the pre- ceding year. The 15th I^'ebruary, 1839, is the date attached to certain "regulations and instructions for fixing the situation and promoting the regularity of the town, or chief dorp of rietermaritzburg," issued by the Volksraad, and this may be regarded as the date of the foundation of the city. Streets were laid out, and the town divided into building lots, called erven, of about an acre and three-quarters each. By virtue of an early regulation, each of the emigrants was entitled to two farms in the Colony, and an erf in one of the towns, and during the years 1S39 and 1840 about 460 erven in Maritzburg were thus disposed of, or publicly sold at prices ranging from £4 to £/ los. each. The manner in which the town was laid out compels admiration. Divided by nine parallel streets eighty feet wide, and these intersected at right angles by five others of equal width, abundant provision was made for the future growth of the city and the requirements of a large population. In 1 841, about eighty houses had been erected, and although few of these were of a permanent character, yet several important buildings were in progress. At the foot of the Market Square stands an old building, now used as a soda-water factory. This was the first church and one of the first houses erected in Pietermaritzburg, and the circumstances connected with its erection are worth narrating. The Weenen massacre had inspired in the Boer emigrants a deep desire for revenge, and their own safety to a great extent depended upon the overthrow of Dingaan and his forces. An expedition was organised for this object, and proceeded against the Zulu Chief; but before making any attack upon him, the Boers engaged in pra}'er, and made a solemn vow that if the Lord would grant them the victory, they would " raise a house to the memory of His great name, wherever it might please Him." Needless to say, decisive victory blessed their arms, and the vow was faithfully kept by the erection of the old Dutch Church above referred 174 to, and every man of the party assisted either with labour or materials. This is the Mother Church of South- East Africa. The Xcw Dutch Reformed Church has been erected on a site close by the old building, which is now no longer the property of that religious body. Previous to its alienation, a provision was made in the title deeds to prevent this historic structure ever being desecrated by the sale of alcoholic liquors. In 1843, the district of Natal was proclaimed a I^ritish Colony, and in 1845 ^^'^^^ constituted a part of the Cape Colony, with a separate Government but no legislative powers. In 1856, Natal became a distinct Colony, with an elective Legislature. In 1844, a week!)' Dutch newspaper, called The Natalier, was issued by a Dutchman named Cornelius Moll. The editor was a Frenchman of the name of Boniface, and the paper was written in a spirit antagonistic to the British Government. It has the credit of being the first newspaper published in Natal, and was succeeded, after a brief existence of one year, by TJic Patriot, which in its turn gave way to The Natal Wit)icss, established in 1846, as a weekly. The publisher and editor was Mr. David Dale Buchanan, an energetic and able journalist, and subsequently the first Mayor of Maritxburg. Scathing comments on judicial proceedings, and fearless criticism of public men, resulted in the frequent incarceration of the editor for contempt of court and offences against the law of libel. Undaunted, he continued to launch forth against his adversaries, and even within the prison walls he wrote the leaders for his next issue. No regular postal service existed between the towns of Maritzburg and Durban at this time, and the only means of communication was by special messenger. To a man of Mr. Buchanan's energetic disposition this was intolerable, and he established " The Natal Witness Express." by means of which communications might be sent to Durban on Friday mornings, the day on which his paper was published. The return post came in on Saturdays. In 1847 a law was passed by the Cape Legislature for the •75 creation of Municipal Boards in the towns and villages of Natal, and in January, 1848, a meeting of resident householders was held for the purpose of taking advantage of the jjrovisions of this law, and of passing the necessary municipal regulations. The municipality was divided into six wards, and to each ward was aj^pointed an official, designated a ward-master, whose dut\' it was to keep an accurate list of the houses and residents MARITZBURG, LOOKING SOUTH in his ward, and generally to look after its interests. The go\'erning municipal body, however, was the Board of Com- missioners, composed of five members, and invested with similar powers to the present Town Councils. The first Board elected consisted of Mr. A. T. Caldecott (chairman), and Messrs. William Van Aardt, Philip Ferreira, Dr. B. Poortman, and P. J. Jung. The first meeting held by the commissioners was on the 27th March, 1848, when sundry officers were appointed, among others, Mr. John Poh'dore Steele, as town clerk, market master, town collector, and overseer of waterworks, at a salary of i^ioo per annum. One of the 176 members of the Board — Mr. P. Ferreira, afterwards Mayor of Maritzburg — was appointed treasurer, and held the office for a number of years. The remuneration attached to this office was a " vote of thanks." Public meetings were called for the purpose of levying rates as occasion required, but beyond the commissioners and ward-masters, few householders seem to have attended, as would appear from the fact that the first general rate levied was fixed at one penny in the £ by seven votes ; an amendment to make it three farthings only receiving five votes. In August, 1854, Pietcrmaritzburg rose to the dignity of a legally constituted borough, with a Mayor and Town Council. The newly-formed borough was endowed with 28,000 acres of town lands, and all the unalienated erven within the city. To support its dignity a borough seal was necessary, and one designed by Mr. Sanderson was adopted. It consists of five stars surmounting an elephant, with the word "Umgungunhlovu," the Kafir name for Pietcrmaritzburg. The literal signification of the word is " the concjueror of the elephant," and was originally applied to Dingaan and to his kraal. By a natural transition it came to signify "the seat of the Government," and hence the capital of the Colony. The centre star refers to the Star of Bethlehem, in allusion to the discovery of Natal on Christmas Day, while the other four represent the Southern Cross, an emblem of Christianity, and indicative of the Colony's geographical position. The gradual increase in the Municipal Revenue consequent on the steady growth of the town, enabled the Corporation to undertake comparatively large public works. Bridges were built across the Umsindusi River, improvements effected to the main thoroughfares, and tree-planting, to which the beauty of the city owes so much, began to engage considerable attention. Numerous lots of town lands were acquired by settlers at prices ranging from £2 \os. to ^5 per acre, and many portions were leased for agricultural and brick-making purposes. With commendable foresight, the Corporation determined that before the borough lands were extensively taken up by 177 purchase or lease, they would benefit by the bitter experience of large English cities, and ere it was too late, jireserve open spaces as recreation grounds for the public. Mr. (now Sir) John Akerman, and Messrs. l^ale and Leathern were the first to move in this direction, and one of the results of their action is the Alexandra Park. The finances of the Council were not at that time in a position to do much towards beautifying' that now popular place of resort, but the site was reserved, in extent 1 80 acres, and in 1863 secured by deed of trust as a public park. Subsequent Councils have vied with each other in increasing its attractions, and ha\e imitated the good example of their far-seeing predecessors, by reserving sites for parks in parts of the borough where they may be of incalculable value when the town becomes thickly populated. In 1 86 1 the Town Council liberally responded to a proposition made by Governor Scott for the establishment of a college or high school, and its endowment jointly by the 178 Government and Corporation. The Government provided £6,000, and the Corporation gave /, 5,000, together with a site for the college. The old high school building, now converted into a primary school, was erected with the funds thus provided. In the earlier period of its municipal history, when the Corporate funds ran short, it was customary to raise money by means of promissory notes, occasionally guaranteed by individual members of the Council. When the town increased in size and importance, it became necessary to undertake public works of some magnitude, and as the levying of rates to pay for these would have thrown unusually heavy burdens upon the ratepayers, some other expedient had to be adopted. The extensive town lands with which the city had been endowed were made available for this purpose, and it became the practice when- ever any work of a permanent or quasi-permanent character was undertaken, that a number of town land lots were sold, and the proceeds applied to the execution of the work. Short-dated loans were occasional!)' raised, and liquidated by the sale of borough lands, until in 1864 the Council began to learn that it was easier to raise money than to sell the land. Several short loans began to fall due, and the Council to be pressed for payment. Application was made to the Government, and in the latter part of 1864 a law was passed authorising the Council to raise funds by debentures, secured by the revenue of the borough and the unsold town lands. Provision was made for the payment of interest and the redemption of the loan on maturity by the establishment of a sinking fund, into which the proceeds of all future sales of town lands were to be paid. This provision has proved ample, for although one portion of the loan was issued at par, and bearing nine per cent, interest, and another at thirty per cent, discount, bearing six per cent, interest, the sinking fund is now larger than the unredeemed portion of the loan. The borrowing powers which were thus obtained were not exhausted until 1880, and it is satisfactory to note that for a 179 number of years previous to this there was no difficulty in obtainint^ money at six, and five and a half per cent. In 1882, a further loan of ;^ioo,000 was authorised and raised at six per cent, interest, within a period of two years. This loan was applied principall\- to the construction of waterworks, the erection of a new market hall and police station, the better liijhting of the town, and the hardening of road.s. Recently, legislative authority has been obtained to issue inscribed .stock to the amount of ^150,000, and to convert the two previous loans into this class of security. The portion already raised was speedily taken up in the Colony at an average premium of seven per cent., although the stock only bears interest at five per cent. This is a result which may well bear comparison with municipalities in more important Colonies. During the years 1864-67, the Colony passed through a period of great commercial depression. The rivalry of banks and other financial institutions, several of which had recently been started, offered unusual facilities for borrowing money. This had the effect of stimulating enterprise to an unwholesome degree, and much capital was sunk in unproductive ventures. The high rents levied for the use of dwellings induced many to borrow money and erect houses in order to escape the exactions of a landlord. Dwellings being thus increased beyond the requirements of the town, the incomes derivable from rents were considerably curtailed, and the inevitable results of over speculation in other directions began to be apparent. The complacency of the banks, and their readiness in making advances, came to a speed)' conclusion, and they made every effort to secure themselves against loss by getting a hold over the bulk of the property of their debtors. Several firms had made extensive use of accommodation bills, and the customary mode of paying for goods was by means of promissory notes which were renewed from time to time, and passed from hand to hand with so little consideration as almost to constitute a " paper currency." The reckless manner in which persons endorsed bills, and the utt^r absence 180 of care in financial transactions, could have onl\' one result. A large firm, transactini^ business in every part of the Colony, failed with ;^ioo,ooo liabilities, and inflicted many losses, principally on the farmini^ community. This was followed by another with ^^50,000 liabilities, and, as every one had been so ready to oblige his neighbour by endorsing bills, few persons GENERAL POST OFFICE AND COURT 1 ARITZBURG. knew to what extent they were involved. When the banks began to exercise pressure, many sought refuge in the Insolvency Court, and the inability of these to meet their liabilities involved others in their fall. In the city, the depression was perhaps more felt than in other parts of the Colony, and the absence of trade compelled mercantile and other establishments to discharge numbers of their employes. The Corporation found it impossible to collect more than a third of its revenue, and w^s obliged to have an- overdraft at the bank of ^10,000 — more than two years' revenue at that time. The discovery of the Diamond Fields in 1870 attracted large numbers iSi of Natal colonists to Kimbcrlcy, and for the most part they were successful in acquiring wealth. On their return to Natal, man)- cjf them bought back the properties they had been forced to abandon in the financial crisis, and invested their money in houses and farms within Natal. The impetus given to trade by the growing importance of the Fields, enabled the Colony to recover from the commercial depression, and the increased wealth of individuals reacted on the whole community. The preparations for the Zulu War in 1878, the calling out of the mounted volunteers, the organising and equipment of corps of irregular cavalry and native contingents, the constant arrival of troops from England, and their departure to the Zulu border, occasioned great stir and excitement in Maritzburg, which was - the base of supplies during the campaign. The dreadful news of the battle of Isandhlwana not only brought grief and desolation to many a colonist's home, but led the people to realise how imminent was the danger of a Zulu invasion. A city guard, which had been formed, received large accessions to its numbers, and nightly did sentry duty throughout the town. One large laager was constructed at the Post Office, embracing the part of the city between Commercial Road, Timber Street, Pietermaritz Street, and Longmarket Street. Two others were made at the Gaol and the Camp. The streets and shops were barricaded, loopholed, and every preparation made to give the Zulus a warm reception. The defences were provisioned, and three guns fired from Fort Napier was to be the signal for the inhabitants to get into laager. Vague rumours got about that the Zulus were close to the city, and the people were in a state of suspense, not knowing what an hour might bring forth. However, the news of the gallant defence of Rorke's Drift, by which the Colony was doubtless saved from invasion, relieved the spell of intense excitement, and the citizens began to breathe more freely. The subsequent events of the war lie beyond the scope of this volume, but reference must be made to the death of the Prince Imperial of France, the reception of whose body was probably one of the most 182 mournful and impressive pageants the city has ever witnessed. Many in Maritzburg had exj^erienced the same loss that his widowed mother was deplorin<^, and memories of Isandhlwana gave point to the grief and heartfelt sympathy everywhere expressed. No sooner were the hostilities in Zululand at an end than the troubles in the Transvaal began, and the city once more was astir with the movements of troops to the front. The proximity of the seat of war, and the business and other relations which Natalians had with the Transvaal, caused great interest to be taken in the struggle, and the news of the defeat of the English troops at Laing's Nek and Amajuba produced alarm in the city. In 1886, the discovery of the Gold Fields at Barberton created much excitement, and the formation of syndicates to send representatives to "peg out" claims was a daily, almost hourly, occurrence. Numerous companies were floated in the city, for the working of properties, and considerable sums of money fruitlessly spent. In the following year, gold was discovered at Witwatersrand, and the representatives of City Syndicates were fortunate in securing valuable properties. Speculation in shares, which had commenced during the excitement in connection with the Barberton Fields, began to assume huge dimensions. The attention of the London Stock Exchange was directed to the South African Gold Fields, and shares in the leading companies rose to enormous prices. Shortly afterwards, when the inevitable crash came, many who thought they had made a competency for life, found that their fortunes were only on paper, and that they were exceptionally lucky if they had escaped from being seriously involved. The system of water supply established by the Dutch settlers was that of open water-courses called sluits, by means of which the supply was led through the streets of the city. The water was thus available either for motive power, irrigation or domestic use, and the oxygenating properties of running water kept the supply pure and wholesome. As the 183 N 2 town became more thickly populated, there was greater need for thorough supervision of the water-courses, and for definition of the rights of householders to the use of the water. The municipal authorities at first shrank from undertaking an extensive scheme of water supply by pipes, and in 1875 '*•* ,E.S^^§««^,^^1I NATAL POLICE BARRACKS, MARITZBURG. the Mayor expressed a hope that some company might be induced to take the matter up. Fortunately for the borough no company came forward, and the Corporation had at last to deal with the question, which was becoming a more pressing one every day. Finally, plans and specifications were called for in 1H78, and premiums offered for the best plans. An English firm of engineers, Messrs. Beardmorc, Barnes & Twigg, were the successful competitors, and they undertook to have the works carried out at a cost of nearly ^^30,000. Contracts were entered into, and in 1881 the waterworks were formally opened. Extensions of the original plan have since brought up the cost to nearly iJ^6o,000, but the excellent quality and abundance of the water are priceless advantages which a period of drought would cause to be estimated at their true value. A considerable revenue is now being derived by the city for the use of water for other than domestic purposes, and the Railway Department, the Brewery, and the Camp are all consumers who contribute largely to the city funds. The utmost care is taken to ensure the purity of the water by a systematic supervision of the sources of supply, and periodical cleansing of the reservoirs and filtration beds. 184 The Natal Society was established in 1851, and had for its objects the development of the physical, commercial, agricultural, and other resources of Natal and Eastern Africa. A Library and Museum were formed, lectures were delivered on various subjects connected with the objects of the Society, and a prize of £2$ was given for an essay on the " moral and physical condition of Natal, with practical suggestions as to its capabilities and means of supplying an industrial population." Considerable interest was manifested in the work of the Society, numerous donations of books and money were made by its friends, and the Government assisted it with a liberal grant from the public funds. The limited resources of the Society, /■\y„Oho„gh il PARLIAMENT BUtLDINGS, MARITZBURG. however, rendered it impracticable to do more than direct attention to the various important subjects it sought to deal with, and the Library department was the only branch which seemed likely to prove ultimately useful. 185 In 1S72 the Society took advantage of the provisions of an Ordinance then passed to become a body corporate. The present Library was erected in 1878. During recent years the Museum department so largely increased as to render additional accommodation absolutely necessary. The fine large hall now adjoining the Library was constructed for that purpose, and sufficient space is secured for the valuable collection of curious and interesting specimens which continued to be sent in from various parts of South Africa. At present the Library contains about 10,000 volumes, and the circulation of books and magazines is about 36,000 per annum. The Government makes a grant of i^350 per annum to the Society, and the subscriptions amount to about an equal sum. The usefulness of the institution is fully shown by the attendance of readers, being on an average 400 per diem. Several Building Societies were established very early in the city's history, and met with considerable success. At the present time there are no fewer than four terminable and two permanent societies of this kind, with a capital of about ;;^ 1 00,000. In the progress of the town these institutions have pla)-ed no mean part, and few cities of equal size can show so large a proportion of dwellings whose occupiers are also their proprietors. The encouragement of thrift and self-help amongst the working classes, who are the backbone of the community, is the primar)- object of building societies, and the large measure of success they have achieved speaks well for the provident habits of this important section of the population. No less important a factor in the welfare of the community is the large membership of friendly and benefit societies. The earliest established was a branch of the Oddfellows, and the lodge here is one of the most prosperous in the whole Order, possessing funds to the extent of £6,000, and a membership of over 200. Courts of Foresters and Shepherds also flourish, and the most recent addition to the number of these institu- tions is a benefit societ\- established among the coloured population, which has already made such progress as to pos.sess a well-built hall for holding meetings. 186 In the year 1854, it is stated that there were about 300 houses in the city, and 2,000 inhabitants of all nationalities. In 1863 a reliable census was taken, which showed that the city contained 701 houses and 4,491 inhabitants, classed as follows: Whites 3,118, l^lacks i,795, and Coolies 78. In 1 88 1 this population had increased to io,ooo, and the number LL, MARITZBURG. of Indians to 750. The last census shows the number of houses to be 2,139, and the population 18,000, distributed as follows : European 10,436, Native 4,969, Indian 2,595. The rateable value of property within the boroui^h in 1871 was ;^270,262. In 1881 this had increased to ^^"1,052,013, and at present (1895) amounts to i," 1,446,607. The value of town lands is ^275,000. These totals are exclusive of churches, public buildings, and other properties, which are exempt from rates. Of late years, great improvements have been made in the class of buildings erected for dwelling houses and shops ; and the houses erected thirty or U)vty years ago are gradualh' 187 beiiiLj replaced by neat cotta^ircs and villas of modern design. In the suburbs, many handsome dwellings have been built within the past ten }'cars, and certain localities already have the reputation of being " fashionable." Local industries of some magnitude are beginning to make their appearance. Large brewery works have been erected by an English company, and are now in full swing. The demand for the products is quite equal to the supply, and it is hoped that in a short time Colonial ale will drive the imported article out of the market. The Natal Tanning Company, Limited, deserves especial mention, as it is the pioneer of an important class of industry. The Company was incorporated in the year 1891. Its leather is produced from Natal hides, and is manufactured from Colonial-grown wattle bark. The capital of the Company is ;^8,ooo ; and it has earned the Government reward which was offered for the manufacture of Colonial leather. It employs in all about twenty-five hands ; skilled European operatives, Coolies and Kafirs. The premises, extending over five acres, are on the banks of the Umsindusi, where the Company has ample water power for working all its machiner}-, grinding its bark and pumping its liquors. The machinery is all manufactured by Messrs. Huxham & Brown, of Exeter, and includes disintegrating, scouring, rolling and belt-making machines. The outjjut of the Tannery is about eighty hides per week. These are converted into sole leather, harness leather, and machine belting. The tan pits are forty in number, and are, together with the adjoining lime pits, built of brick, lined with cement, and roofed over to protect them from the storms. The warehouses, drying and currying sheds are extensive. The quality of the Company's leather has been steadily im- proving, and its sale gradually progressing. The tanyard has been so planned that the number of pits can be doubled when occasion requires. The cultivation of wattle (Acacia Mollissima) has now become one of the permanent industries of the Colony, and the suppl}' of ox hides is abundant. In addition to wattle bark, the Company uses other tannine^ ingredients, such as sumach, salonia and myrabolane, which it has to import at present, but which could all be grown in this Colony. No expense is being spared to produce a leather that will com- pare favourably with that imported from England. The Agricultural Show, which is held in Pictcrmaritzburg annually during the month of May, is an important feature in the industry and progress of the Colony. Exhibits of every description of produce, manufactures, implements, cattle, dogs, poultry, etc., are received from all parts of Natal, and valuable prizes presented by individuals as well as b\- the Society, are awarded to the successful competitors. It has increased year by year, and is now the most flourishing of its kind in South Africa. The Hon. T. K. Murray, M.L.A., who for a considerable time was President of the Society, has, by his indefatigable energy, contributed most materially to its success. The extensive property, and large hall in the grounds, are sufficient testimony to the growing importance of this institution. The Horticultural Society is also worthy of especial mention. It was established in the year 1864, and had for its object the encouragement of the growth of indigenous and exotic flora, fruits and vegetables. There are five or six exhibitions held throughout the Colony every year. It is self- supporting, and has done eminent service in the direction aimed at by its founders. Thirteen years ago, Maritzburg was the terminus of the Natal Government Railways, and it was confidently predicted that when the line was extended further north, the capital of Natal would sink into an insignificant village, inhabited by a few officials. True it is that the forwarding agent and transport rider have gone elsewhere to pl)^ their callings ; still Maritzburg has progressed, and that steadil}'. Its population has increased, within ten years, by seventy- five per cent. ; and the agricultural district of which it is the centre has greatly improved. Large sums of mono}' have been spent on surface drainage and the construction of roads. The effective maintenance of forty miles of streets, besides suburban roads, in a country where heavy rain storms are frequent, necessarily involves constant expenditure. A well-managed police force, composed of twent}' I^uropean and forty native constables, has replaced what in early days was designated an "undisciplined rabble." If the number and size of public buildings be considered a test of any town's relative importance, the claims of Pietermaritzburg to be counted among the most important cities in South Africa rest upon very substantial grounds. The past decade has witnessed the demolition of many ORGAN ON OPENING CEREMONY. primitive structures originall}- used for public purposes, and the erection of handsome and commodious edifices calculated to meet the increasing demands of a progressive Colony. Whatever ma\- be the failings of the colonists of Xatal, they 190 cannot be accused of want of confidence in the future of their country, and croaking pessimists find but little sympathy among a hopeful, self-reliant, and energetic community. The public buildings are of two classes — the one belonging to the Government of the Colon}% and the other being the property of the Municipality. Of the former. Government Hous'ie, the residence of the Governor of Natal, is a well-built and commodious mansion which has recently been enlarged. ^^"tvm jl ^ ■%Jy ll^M ^^SSKS^ci^ sSBtSffLmim as— — — ^— — ^— r^ ^Bl^ffiPWurfi vvirjSi9w9fiKi^^^^^u ^^^s i " . ^^^ j|^^Q^^^^|H L. -J391 Firneyhou_s;^>t ! MARKET, MARITZBURG. The Supreme Court of the Colony and the Post Office are, with other Government departments, accommodated in a large building well suited to their present needs. The Legislative Assembl}', which formerly held its sessions in the Supreme Court, occasionally to the incoin-cnience of the administrators of the law, now occupy what is probabl)- the finest building in the city, and certainly the most convenient, well-finished, and elaborately furnished. The Colonial Offices which are about to be erected on the site of the existing range of buildings used for that purpose, 191 w ill be an imposing and beautiful addition to the street frontage. It is the intention of the Government to place them some short distance back from the street in order to leave room for the erection of such monuments and statues as may be desired. The specifications and plans which are already published, indicate that in convenience and extent the buildings will be in all respects worthy of the progressive nature of the country, and well ahead of the present requirements. This is as it should be, for year b}^ }'ear the advances made generally in the structural features of the town are so great as to necessitate the utmost care in connection with so important an office. In the suburbs, extensive barracks for the Natal Police have lately been built, and may probably be further added to. The Natal Government Lunatic Asylum has had very large additions made to it, and, besides having one of the best town lands sites, is a very fine group of buildings. In addition to minor Government institutions, there are three schools — one for boys and two for girls — all of which are very good modern structures, specially designed for the purposes for which they are used. Grey's Hospital, which receives a Government grant of ;^2,200 per annum, is also a commodious structure. The Municipal Buildings comprise a large and well-designed Market Hall, erected in 1884 at a cost of ;^8,ooo, the rapidly increasing importance of the market having rendered it indispensable that more extensive and suitable premises should replace the old Market House, originally built by the Dutch. In the same year, and on an adjoining site, a new Borough Police Station, costing ;{^ 7,000, took the place of the old structure which had served in former days as a gaol. In close proximity to these, the new Town Hall has been erected, and the three structures, as depicted in the illustrations, extending from Church Street to Longmarket Street, facing the Post Office, form a block of buildings worthy of the capital of Natal. A Town Hall for Maritzburg had been repeatedly talked about from the earliest days of a Corporation, and in i860, advantage was taken of the visit of the Duke of Kdinburgh, who consented to lay the foundation stone. 192 Great rejoicings and festivities celebrated the event, but the stone lay for thirt)- years a silent witness to the small income of the city. In 1888, Mr. J. J. Chapman, then Mayor, laid before the Town Council a scheme for the consolidation of the existing 3TANICAL GARDENS. MARITZBURG. debt of the municipality, its conversion into inscribed stock, issued at a low rate of interest, the gradual release of the sinking funds, and their expenditure on permanent public works. By this scheme the Council was in a position to undertake the erection of a Town Hall, and in order to make the building as large as possible, and suited for the future needs of the borough, application was made to the Government for its co-operation. This being successful, the Council adopted the proposal. Under the arrangement made, the Government will be tenants of a portion of the building for at least ten years. The following is a description of the Hall : The style is free Renaissance, and as this has had as it were a new birth in England, grown up from modern needs, it can only be correctly described as " Victorian," with piazza and balconies, designed to especially suit the scorching suns of Natal. As to the internal arrangements, the rooms are all large, airy, and well lighted. The Main Hall is a noble room, and well proportioned, being 114 feet long, including the proscenium, by 193 53 Tect wide. The Council Chamber, 45^, feet by 27! feet, is also a fine room, and has an open balcony running along the entire front. This is approached by broad French casements. The Main Entrance Hall in Church Street is 18 feet by 16, with an antecedent vestibule. The Entrance Hall in Commercial Road, 28 feet b\' 24, is larger, and contains the grand staircase. There is also an annexe to this hall 12 feet by 8, and an antecedent vestibule. Cloak rooms are attached to both entrances. The Municipal Government Rooms to the north side of Commercial Road, having a frontage to Church Street, are Fcr>ieyhough UNVEILING JUBILEE STftTUE OF HER MAJESTY IN FRONT OF LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY BUILDINGS, MARITZBURG. ample in space and convenience. There is also a subsidiary staircase and entrance at the north-east corner. The Town Clerk and staff, Justice of the Peace, and Borough Engineer are all amply provided for ; the Council Chamber (already mentioned), retiring rooms for members of the Council, Mayor's Parlour and appurtenances, all being furnished. The Legislative Council, or Upper House, occupies some chambers overlooking the Church Street entrance. 194 The south-west side of Commercial Road, and south semi-front, are all occupied by Government officials. The Resident Magistrate's Court, 40 feet by 22, is situated here. There are three rooms for the Magistrate and staff, two for Indian and native interpreters, another for constables and witnesses, and two for prisoners of both sexes. On the first floor of this portion, the Audit Department has five large rooms and extensive basement accommodation below the Resident Magistrate's Court, etc. The Education Depart- ment has four large rooms, and the Commissioner of Mines the same number. Lavatories, etc., are attached to each department. In the rear are kitchen, store room, and retiring rooms from pros- cenium stage. Underneath the Main Hall, vast cellarage has been con- structed at very slight additional cost. The entire building is lighted by electricity. A magnificent organ, erected mainly by subscription of the burgesses and others at a cost of about ;^4,C)00, has been placed in the Main Hall, and is a considerable source of attraction. The tower, which is about 125 feet in height, contains a large clock and chime of bells. The Hall was opened on the 15th June, 1893, and its total cost was ;^42,3i7. Of churches and chapels in Maritzburg there are many ; the most notable, perhaps, being the Cathedrals of St. Peter's and St. Saviour's. Every other denomination is strongly represented, and the style of building, together with their interior fittings, are sufficient evidence of the religious vitality of the city. It may be interesting to mention here that the -^m ZULU WAR MONUMENT. MARITZBURG. 195 remains of that world-famed prelate, the Right Rev. J. W. Colenso, D.D., formerly Lord Bishop of Natal, are reverently laid beside the altar of St. Peter's Cathedral. Of monuments, Maritzburg possesses four artistically designed and elaborately finished specimens. Opposite the Town Hall, at the corner of Church Street and Commercial Road, a magnificent cluster of white marble figures has been placed to commemorate the names of those who fell in the Zulu War. Near the Market Hall a column has been erected in honour of those volunteers who died in the suppression of the Langalibalele Rebellion. In front of the Legislati\c .Asscmbl_\- Buildings there is a white marble statue of Her Majesty the Queen. This was erected to commemorate the Jubilee \-ear of her gracious reign. A life-sized bust of Sir Bartle Frere, placed in the vestibule of the Town Hall, fittingly recalls the name and life of one of the best and noblest Governors South Africa has ever seen. A monument to Sir Theophilus Shepstone is about to be erected, while in the various churches numerous tablets testif}-ing to the worth and valour of past leaders and pioneers, are placed in pro- minent positions of honour. The very handsome .fii-'^'iafcifc Maritzburg College may be taken as the latest exponent of the educational aspirations of the Colony. Occupying a commanding site on the south- western slope of the beautiful Alexandra Park, it is one of the first objects to catch the eye of the visitor who is nearing the city '& TOWN BUSH VALLEY FALLS, MARITZBURG. 196 by rail from Durban, or by road from Edendale. Perhaps the most pleasing view of the College is that to be got from the intersection of Chapel and Loop Streets, where the northern end of the building is seen through a screen of park trees. This institution is collegiate in respect of its having young men in residence who study for the degree examinations ot the Cape of Good Hope University, with which it is thus in a way affiliated ; but it also represents the High School, in that, in the lower or preparatory school, elementary instruction is, and perforce has to be, recognised. Since the opening of the College, in August, 1888, considerable additions have from time to time been made to the staff, on which there are now eminent teachers — holding degrees from British and other Universities — in the departments of Classics, English Literature, Science, Mathematics, and Modern Languages. The present Head Master is R. D. Clark, Esq., M.A., of New College, Oxford, and former Eellovv and Tutor of Edinburgh Univer- sity; also of the Inner Temple, Barrister-at-Law. Maritzburg possesses at the present time four flourishing journals : Tlic Natal Witness, published every morning ; TJie Times of Natal, which appears in the evening ; TJie Natal Afrikaner, a bi-weekly paper printed in the Dutch language ; and The Gove^'nnient Gazette. Elsewhere in this section the date of establishment of the first-named journal is mentioned. TJie Times of A^atal dditQS from 185 1, and was first published in Durban. In concluding these notes on the institutions of Maritzburg, the Natal Bank Limited, as one of Natal's most successful enterprises, claims especial mention. It was established in 1854, incorporated in 1859, and now incorporated under the Natal Bank Limited Law of 1888. Its head offices are in Pietermaritzburg, and it has branches throughout Natal, Transvaal, Zululand and London ; the latter branch being located at 156-157, Leadenhall Street, E.C. The authorised capital is i^2,ooo,000, subscribed capital ^878,110, paid-up capital ^284,237 io.y., and its reserve fund ^^"45,000. It is the official Bank to the Governments of Natal and Zululand. The Standard Bank of South Africa Limited, and the Bank of Africa Limited, have also important branches in the city. 1 98 SECTION XVI. MARITZBURG TO GREYTOWN AND TUGELA VALLEY. THE rOLELA DISTRICT. TWO post carts start daily from Maritzburg for outlying parts of the country. One leaves the city at 9.30 a.m. for Greytown, the market centre of Umvoti County, and the other for Buhver, in the Polela Division. The journey to Greytown costs £1. It is accomplished in six and a half hours, and leads through a most beautiful part of the Colony. Behind its team of six strong horses the cart is borne down Church Street and out into the open country, past Cremorne. On either side of the road extensive plantations of trees help to beautify the scene. The long ascent of the Town Hill having been made, a grand view of Maritzburg on the one hand, and the country to the north-east on the other, is obtained. A journey of two and a half hours through an open and comparativel}' level region, brings the traveller to Sterk Spruit, where lunch is procurable. On again for another two hours, during which several changes of horses are made, and the journey is brought to an end at Greytown. This quiet settlement has a population of about 300, and possesses in miniature all the adjuncts necessary to civilisation. The Dutch Reformed Church, which is a costly and artistic structure, is the best building in the town. Several important educational establishments are doing splendid work in both Dutch and English. Two or three hotels and a Masonic Lodge, together with a large and commodious Court House, make up the list of public buildings. A long 199 o 2 straggling street with a few stores, a market square, and magnificent avenues of abnormal!}' tall gum trees, complete the picture of the place. Fifteen miles from the town, in an easterly direction, the well-known German settlement and educational centre of Hermannsburg is situated. A college has been for many years an important feature of this locality. The settlement is composed mainh- of Germans, who have with their strong FtnteyhoH^h, \LLS ON GREYTOWN HOAC national individuality, built up about them a village, which is noted for its orderliness and culture. As at New Germany, near Pinetown, an old - world looking church forms the centre round which the settlers have clustered. The prevailing religion of the place is Lutheran. This church has done a great deal of good in the mission field. In the \icinit\' of Hermannsburg a Tanner}- has been started by Mr. Havemann, and leather of good quality is now being regularly produced for local purposes. In the IN THE ALOE FORESTS. TUGELA. Umvoti Thorns, ostrich farminc^ is fi- bein<:^ carried on with a considerable measure of success. At one time this industry was much in vogue in the Colony, but owing to various causes, it was abandoned in favour of other pursuits. It has been ascertained that the climate of the thorn-veldt, and the other conditions of the county, render it a suitable district for the rearing and management of the birds. Some little time ago the people of Umvoti County were stirred to excitement by a reported silver strike in the vicinity. As yet, nothing has come of the matter, but thirty- five miles eastward of the town, promising gold fields have been discoverd, and development work is now being carried on. The scenery in this particular part is well worthy of more thati special mention. At Krantz Kop, in the valley of the Tugela River, mountain piles, some thousands of feet in height, and densely wooded, can be seen in all directions. Far as the eye can reach, to the eastward antl northward, the wilds of Zululand stretch into the distance. The great 'Nkandhla forest, where the fugitive King Cetywa}'0 took refuge in his clay of trouble, is plainly seen, while towering high above it, the bold cliffs and peaks uprear their crests "Like ancient braves, whose helmets bear the dents of primal wars." Passing up the river, a succession of noble mountain ranges is viewed. Queer and fantastic shaped hills, some in the form of tents, others like ancient Feudal castles, appear through the forest glades. The Tugela, broad and powerful, lashes in wild waves over its bed of boulders, some of which are round as cannon balls, and weigh many tons. Wild fig trees flourish. A curious kind of wild thyme, with a rich aroma, covers the ground in places ; tangled forests of thorn and cactus clothe the hills, whose debris is mixed with fragments of gold-bearing quartz and copper ore. At one point, near the Episweni Mountain, a veritable castle of snow-white quartz occurs, and in the dark forests looks like a fairy palace of enchantment. Standing beside this quaint and beautiful phenomenon, the river can be seen, 500 feet below, circling OSTRICH FARM. UMVOTI THORNS. the Semunga Peninsula. The meaning of Semunga is " steep place." The spot is well named, for the hills afford but scant foothold to even the nimble deer. If the river is watched attentively for a little time, the scaly forms of crocodiles, basking in the sun, can be spied. Barbel of mammoth proportions abound in the pools, and mud bream afford good sport. Eels are in plenty, while in the forests deer of the smaller varieties, guinea-fowl, wood pigeons and ibises are to be had. Passing still further up the river, the gold fields already mentioned are located. The primitive huts and tents of the prospectors are, it is hoped, but the precursors of more pretentious dwellings. The silence of the valley is here constantly broken by the reverberations of dynamite blasts in the mines, while the rythmical song of the native labourer sounds quaint and beautiful, betokening as it does the good- will and contentment with Avhich the nati\e welcomes the white man into the heart of his cherished solitude. At this point the Buffalo River joins the Tugela, in a very amphitheatre of grandeur and majesty. But a few miles further on, the Isandhlwana Mountain, Fugitive's and Rorke's Drifts, together with other points of historic interest, are situated, but being in Zululand, a description of them does not come within the scope of this work. The journey from Greytown to the Tugela Valley can be accomplished on horseback in one day. Ponies are available for hire in Greytown, at the rate of ten shillings per diem, and native guides can be had at the magistrate's office for five shillings per day. The other post cart which leaves Maritzburg journeys in an exactly opposite direction to that of the Greytown one. Leaving the city in the morning, its course lies along Pietermaritzburg County, in a south-west by west direction, to the town of Bulwer in the Polcla district, a distance of about sixty miles. The road from Maritzburg is one continuous succession of hills and valleys. A few miles out of the town the rich agricultural district of Wilgefontein is passed. Turning slightly to the right, and crossing the Umsindusi River, the route lies through the Edendalc Mission Station, then on up a terrific hill, from the crest of which widespread and beautiful views can be obtained. After a pause for breath, the team sets out over the high-veldt towards the village of Boston, where a comfortable hotel affords refreshments. A few yards 203 further on, the Eland's River, a turbulent stream, whose rock-bound course teems with picturesque nooks and corners, is passed. Lundy's Hill, ^\■hose fame is great, next comes in view. Before the new deviation was made, the hill was noted as one of the most dangerous pieces of road in the Colony. Now, a long scarping through a delightful bit of forest has materially reduced the gradient and rendered the journey to Ikilwer as safe as enjoyable. Descending this hill, the valley of the Umkomaas is entered, and for some time the beautiful river makes the mountains echo with its rapids and cascades. Before long the drift is sighted, and the high-wheeled coach is dragged through the swirling water, up the steep bank and onward ; in due course the cleft crest of the INIahwaqa Mountain, 6,834 feet in altitude, peeps through the clouds, and shortly afterwards the little town of Bulwer is entered. The district of Polela is considered one of the very finest stock-rearing and farming areas in the Colony. Until four years ago' it was almost neglected, but it is now filling up rapidl}'. The climate is superb, possessing as it does all the beauties of an English one, but with scarcely any of the drawbacks. Were this but fully realised, the district, notwithstanding the fact that it is the third largest in the Colony, would soon be largely and beneficially occupied. The north-west boundar)' of the district runs along the Berg, and impinges on Basutoland. In this region the scenery in many places rivals that of the Highlands of Scotland. The great mountain slopes vary in tint from delicate green, through all the shades of grey and brown, to neutral and blue. The effect of sunset is magnificent, whilst the most gifted brush would fail to even faintly reproduce the wonderful cloud effects, which change with every hour and charm with ever)' change. It is asserted that the air here possesses a peculiar restorative power in connection with rheumatic affections. With regard to stock-breeding, the class of cattle in the district is a very mixed one, the stock ha\-ing been <:lrawn largely from East Griqualand. The breed is, however, rapidh' improving, the tendency being towards the in- trcxluction of short-horned strains. Although the Polela is distinctly a pastoral region, agriculture is by no means behind the times. Wheat, oats, potatoes, etc., are plentifully grown and thrive well. Owing to the prevalence of frost, maize is not regarded as a reliable crop. In the vicinity the Hon. Wm. .^buckle, M.L.C., has made his home, and is carrying out a system of farming likely to INTHUNGWAIN BLUFF, NORTH FRONTIER, NATAL. benefit the reputation of the district. Mr. F. Grafton, one of Natal's most enterprising importers and breeders of stock, has also a large estate near Bulwer. This particular branch of industry in the Colony ot Natal, and in fact throughout the whole of South Africa, requires in its pursuit a good deal more than average courage. Owing to a poor strain and continuous inbreeding, the stock of the country became so enervated and wretched, as to lay it peculiarly open to diseases incidental to weaklings. These diseases obtained a grip, which was fos- tered by the reckless negligence of the early-day farmers, who were supremely ignorant of the vital necessity for cleanliness and care. In order to overcome them it was 206 necessary to import fresh blood at a great expense. The animals so introduced, owing to the climatic change and the hardships of the voyage, often fell victims to contagion ; but it is hoped that th.s danger will speedily pass away, for with comfort on the sea voyage, and extended railway facilities, there is a better chance of landing the imported animals in good condition. Those who have had the enterprise to embark on this hazardous undertaking, are entitled to an especial tribute of gratitude from every colonist. There is not the slightest doubt but that the ravages of lung sickness and other diseases will be very greatly minimised when the bulk of the colonists follow the good example set by such pioneers as those already mentioned, together with others whose names 3EHLAN MOUNTAIN. NORTH FRONTIE it is pleasing to state are now becoming too numerous to mention. While in this connection it is but fair to pay a tribute to the agricultural reformers who have, by the introduction of scientific and extensive farming, and by the application of 207 niachinci'}', done mucli to disprove the truth of the dismal cry of men who ha\'e failetl, either through lack of capital, application, or skill. Some distance to the south-east of Ikilwer, and in the vicinity of Stuartstown, a block of land about 30,000 acres in extent, comprising some of the most fertile soil in the Colony GOLD PROSPECTOR* S is now being divided into allotments of from 300 to 500 acres each, for the settlement of an agricultural community. It is probable that the Government will lay out a township within this settlement, and will provide such educational facilities as the community may require. The district is one of the best situated in the Colony for the production of cereal crops. It is well watered, and care is being taken that each allotment shall have the means of irrigation. This locality is at present known as Dronk Vlei. The journey from Maritzburg to Polela can be accomplished easily within a day. The post cart fare ranges from £i to 208 £i los., and the trip can be recommended, not only as one calculated to build up the health, but for the instruction which is provided by every mile of country traversed. As both the districts dealt with in this section are more or less suitable for the culture of wattle bark [Acacia Mollissivui) it is considered fitting to introduce here some remarks on the subject. In the first place, the name of the tree is derived from the Anglo-Saxon word "watcl," which signifies a hurdle covering. The verb is " watelen," to wattle or twist together. ^^<^wS>-»--^* :^^^^^^' PANNING GOLD. INGOBEVU UMSINGA. In the earl}- days of Australia it was customary to erect temporary structures of small trees, acacias as well as others. In Natal the same custom prevails in outlying dstricts. The name " wattle and daub " for a house or hut made of hurdles, and covered with mud, is familiar to every old colonist. It was by its use in this way in Australia that the name of black Avattle became applied to it. 209 One pound weight is said to contain from 30,000 to 50,000 seeds. The ground should be well ploughed over and thoroughly pulverised before being planted. The seeds should be planted in rows about nine feet apart each way. In the earlier days, the fault of overcrowding resulted in a stunted growth. Before being placed in the soil, boiling water should be poured over the seeds and allowed to soak into them for a night. No more seed should be soaked than can be planted during the day. The proper time for planting depends some- what on the season. From November to the end of February are not unsuitable months, provided a good rain follows the sowing. As soon as the young trees can be plainly seen, a plough may be run down the space between the rows for the purpose of clearing the weeds and airing the soil. Weeding having been done, very little after treatment is required. Thinning is the next process. This should be carried out when the trees are about two feet in height. Two plants should be left in each hole, as far apart as they may be found. Mr. Thrupp states that if the bark of a wattle tree three or four years of age be slit down on the south side, from the first branch to the root, a considerable increase in bulk will be obtained. Of course every precaution should be observed to protect the plantations from fire, and the intrusion of cattle and sheep. Some Australian authorities recommend pruning the side branches in order to ensure a straight stem, which will thus render the process of stripping easier and cheaper. The first return from a wattle plantation will depend greatly, of course, on the nature of the soil and locality in which it is situated. Wattles have been found to grow best in Australia, on land that had little or no lime in its composition, while the presence of iron is distinctly advantageous. Experience has proved that in Natal the trees thrive well in the }-ellow-wood belt of the country. If the seasons are dry and rainfall scanty, the trees naturally make less progress. In five years a large percentage of the crop should be ready to cut, and in the sixth and seventh years the bulk of the trees should be in the most payable condition. It is advisable to cut them when the sap is well up, as they are then supposed to contain a larger proportion of tannic acid. It has been found in practice, that trees of seven or eight inches in diameter, pay much better in proportion than smaller and younger ones. As MOUTH OF IVE. NATAL GOLD FIELDS. much as 112 lbs. of wet bark have been taken from a tree of eight or nine inches in diameter ; the average, however, is from 80 to 100 lbs., thirty-three per cent, of which is lost in drying, and as a rule, the thinner and less mature the bark, the heavier the percentage of loss. Five hundred trees to the acre, yielding say 30 lbs. per tree, would give 15,000 lbs. of wet bark, equal to 10,000 lbs. of dry, or about 4^ tons. With a local value of £4 los. per ton, a result of about i^20 per acre is obtained. This estimate is asserted by some to be a very low one, and might easily, in the opinion of many throwers, be almost doubled. It is, however, based on actual results. When the bark is quite dr\-, which is effected by spreading it in the sun, it ma>' be sold in sticks as it comes from the tree. The other method, which is now becoming universal, is to have it chopped into chips of about two inches. This should be done on a sail or boarded floor, in order to a\-oid waste. Having been chopped, it is then packed as tighth' as possible into sacks, each one containing about 1 80 to 200 lbs. The acKantage of the latter method of packing is a saving in freight. Some fears have been expressed that the large area of land now under wattles, in Natal, the United States, Ingratn TUGELA niVCR. and Australia, will reduce the price of the product below a paying limit ; but this is not a well-based fear, for the product is in such constant demand that an\- considerable reduction in its value would not be of a permanent character. British and Continental tanners are languishinfj for an ample and continuous supply. Other descriptions of bark- may be used, but it is a well-known fact that reliable leather cannot be produced by intermittent, various, and inadequate supplies. In large tanneries, some of which have as many as 50,(X>0 hides always in the pits, it is a serious matter not to be able, through insufficiency of bark of a given class and qualit}', to work them through, evenly and successfully. It is a matter of absolute necessity that exports of bark should be abundant, regular, and of the best quality. After HTRD OF CATTLE. the trees have been stripped, the wood is another product of considerable value, as it is easy to work. It takes a beautiful poli.sh, stains and ebonizes well. Yokes for cattle can be made from it, and in fact it can be used in all departments where light wood is suitable. About £iS to i?20 per acre have been realised by its sale. The blossom of the tree has been utilised in Australia for perfumery purposes. Its essence is of a superior character, and decidedly more lasting than many of the imported perfumes. In the year 1886, Natal exported thirty-nine packages of bark, valued at £1 1. In 1889,4,623 packages valued at £"2,783. In nine months of 1891, 14,424 packages valued at ^^7,480 were scut away, and in 1894, 40,485 packages at a value, as shown elsewhere, of iJ"i 2,569. The value of this especial production is so great and is calculated to have so important an effect on the future of the Colony, that it is but fair to mention the name of the Hon. Mr. G. M. Sutton, M.L.C., as the first one to grasp the value of the product and to bring it within the practical scope of trade. Many other names might be mentioned in this connection, but Mr. Sutton's stands out as prominently here as does that of Mr. Hulett with respect to tea. 214 SECTION XVII. PIETERMARITZBURG TO LADYSMITH. LOOKING westward from the main station at Maritzburg, _^ the view is bounded by the Zwaartkop Range of Hills, which has already been described. The scene on the platform on the departure of the up mail is oftentimes an interesting and animated one ; throngs of citizens, smart railway officials in uniform, and multitudes of variegated humanity hurry about as though the fate of the world depended upon their alacrity. Passing out of the station, a fine view opens out on the right of the line. Plantations and homesteads cov^er the hill sides. The Botanical Gardens, the Military Parade, Polo and other recreation grounds are passed rapidly in review. Away in the distance the peaked Zwaartkop serves as an artistic finish to the prospect. It is from the foot of this range that Maritzburg derives its water supply. On the left of the line, for a short distance the train passes under P'ort Napier, where the white tents and bright uniforms of the men serve as a pleasant reminder that the old flag of England still floats as proudly as ever over the land which has seen so many reverses, and won so many victories. A moment after passing Fort Napier, the Military Cemetery is sighted, where many a gallant soldier has been laid to rest. Names of historic worth are here graven in marble, beside the humble, yet none the less honoured, tombs of private soldiers. Passing on, the Edendale Mission next comes in view. This great Christianising centre has won for itself a widespread popularity. From it, natives have been sent forth to do good work in many useful departments in Colonial life. 215 and in the old war days of 1879, a troop of native horse, called after the Mission Station, went forth to battle, and proved with their blood on many a well-fought field, that the loyalty of Natal's Christianised natives is as noble and pure as that of the colonists themselves. The Mission Station is composed of a church, a store, and a lar^^e number of well-built dwellings. A broad and EOETNOALE FALLS, NZfi 1ARITZBURG. well-kept street runs through the centre of it. It possesses several industrial institutions, and is steadily, like many another mission station in the country, rending the veil of darkness from the native mind. Extensive black wattle, poplar, and blue-gum plantations 216 impart a pleasant appearance to its environments. T^ertile and well cultivated meadows testify to the industry of the centre. The Umsindusi River meanders through these latter, while the Edendale Falls, of which there are several, constitute distinct attractions to the place. Well nii"rban. Alt. 5,520ft. prospect is re\'caled which no human being can regard without a thrill of the most exquisite and reverent delight. Standing, as it were, knee deep in the clouds, a vast area of the Colony of Natal can at one sweep of the eye be viewed to such advantage as to bear out in the fullest measure possible every line of detailed description embodied in previous sections of this work. It was from this magnificent vantage point that the early Boer voortrekkers in 1835 first viewed their land of promise, their future refuge and home. Words are but feeble when called in requisition to describe the majesty of the scene. Mountain range after mountain range, hill after hill, can be 235 traced. Inroad and ai^parciitl}- endless vales, forest belts and rivers arc commingled in such a wealth of beauty as to rival many an alread\- famed land. There is no doubt that Piet Retief, the heroic leader of the Boer emigrants, simple farmer though he was, drew from this scene that courage and inspiration which enabled him to face the terrors of hostile barbarism, and to win for himself and his compatriots the glory which has caused their names to be enshrined for all time in the pages of African history. In the section dealing with the Ph\'sical Geography of Natal, the altitudes and configuration of the Berg are full}' dealt with, therefore it is unnecessar}- in this place to touch upon the subject again. Van Reenen's Station is situated on the western frontier of Natal, and leaving it, the Orange Free State Republic is entered. In the vicinity of the station there is a hotel and Custom House. To the left of the line, great isolated mountain masses are visible, each one standing like a palace of mystery, with summits swathed in clouds, and kloofs dark with impenetrable forests, amidst whose almost untrodden solitudes are Bushmen's caves, containing on their rocky walls curious representations of beasts and birds. These Bushmen, now almost an extinct race in South Africa, are no doubt a wandering branch of the pygmy tribes discovered b}- Mr. H. M. Stanley in Central Africa. Their history forms a strange stud)-, for while they were undoubtedly possessed in a high degree of primitive artistic and imitative powers in a pictorial sense, they were and are in almost every other respect beyond the pale of the lowest class of humanity. Without a single scrap of generous impulse, devoid of the virtue of gratitude, they invariably waged a war of harassment on their white and coloured neighbours. Peaceful and kindly overtures meant no more to them than to a tribe of those baboons to which they bear such a striking physical resemblance. Little wonder then, that the Boers and early settlers did all in their power to exterminate them, even to the extent of organizing Bushmen hunts, when the little, but nimble and 2;6 ferocious manikins were shot down, not, however, without tearing down a few of their provoked and exasperated assailants. Leaving Van Reenen's Station, the line passes through a fine countr\-. Presently the Wilge River comes in sight. BUSHMEN CAVES AND DRAWINGS, DRAKENSBERG. winding along through its sedgy banks — a very ideal of placidity. Still on and on, through a region of uncounted lakelets, or pans, as they are locally called, where flocks of wild duck and other water-fowl rise on the approach of the engine, and where lazy winged vultures, gorged to repletion, stare helplessly at the train, as relieved from its mountain climb, it whirls along with redoubled speed. The ridge of mountains forming the water-shed of South Africa having now been passed, there is a perceptible fall in the country towards the west. The rivers have reversed their courses and flow from the Berg into the Atlantic instead of the Indian Ocean. Albertina, 234} miles from Durban, 5,408 feet in altitude, 237 is the List station out from I larrisniith. Passing it, the RcpubHcan town soon comes in sight. Harrismitii, llari'ismith is a long, low, openly situated settlement, and, 249i "j?^''" although belonging to the Orange I'^ree State, is most Durban, distinctlv lii'itisli, from a commercial and social point of Alt. 5,322 ft. -^ ' I view. The streets are bounded by well-built stone dwellings and stores. In a commanding position in the centre of the town, a stately Dutch Reformed Church is located. It is constructed of smooth hewn stone, and its towering spire forms a fitting centre-piece to the place. An expensive organ with elaborate and artistic fittings testifies to the practical devotion of those who worship there. In fact, it may be taken as a rule that the Dutch have, in South Africa . as in Holland, set a noble example of religious generosity to every other Protestant denomination. A commodious Stadthuis, or Town Hall, is placed in the vicinitN' of the church. The town is governed by a Burgemeester or Mayor, and Municipal Council, whilst a Landdrost or Magistrate administers justice in the Inferior Courts. The assessed value of landed property amounts to i^200,ooo, and the towai lands at ^60,000. The population of Harrismith is about 900 whites of all nations, and 750 coloured folk. The community is a quiet, orderly and progressive one. Its chief trade consists in wool dealing with the adjacent farmers, who in turn obtain their supplies from the merchants. The Plaatberg, a table-topped range of mountains, over- shadow the town. These, now and again in winter, are snow-clad, while in summer they constitute the principal pleasure resort of the burghers. Harrismith possesses English, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, and Dutch Reformed places of worship, together with a Native Mission Church. There are three or four hotels, a Library and Reading room, the usual Athletic and Sporting Clubs, a Ma.sonic Lodge, and many other minor institutions. The cost of living is about the same as in Natal. Good plain board and lodging can be had at from four to seven pounds per month. The rate of wages ranges some- 2;S what hi^licr tliaii in the larger towns of Natal and Cape Colon)-. ^ The lla\inundee. 236 miles which is in sight, is six miles in length. This locality may f^om be regarded at present, and for some time to come, as the ^''-4.10" <"'• main coal mining centre of the Colony. The settlement is divided into two separate parts, one of which is named Dundee, and the other Coalfields. The former is pleasantly situated on a hill, while the latter lies below and adjacent to it ; the line of division between the two being the Dumain spruit. The place was named Dundee after the original farm. It produces at present (1894) about 12,000 tons of good coal per month, and is capable of almost unlimited development. It has a population of about 500 whites, and 700 natives are employed in the mines. In the town there are three Hotels, three Churches, one Government School, a branch of the Standard Bank, a Magistracy, and a Masonic Lodge. Twice a week passenger and mail coaches leave Dundee for Vryheid, the Nondweni and Denny- Dalton Gold Fields. The fare from Dundee to Vryheid is thirty shillings. The country between the two settlements possesses no special features of interest. Vryheid itself, however, is a prettily situated town, in close proximity to the battlefields of Kambula and Hlobanc. The scenery round about it is charming. In its earlier days this settlement was known as the Boer laager, and the district of which it is the centre, as the New Republic. The other post cart which leaves Dundee, makes a run to the Zululand Gold Fields. The fare on this route is six pounds return. At the present time the mineral wealth of Zululand is undergoing crucial examination. On the Nondweni Fields, quite a number of nn'ners and 245 R prospectors are engaged in developing and testing the reefs, some of which are of undoubted value. The Dcnny-Dalton mine has important machiner}- and structures. About 20 white men and 150 Kafirs are emplo)'ed b)^ the Compan\-. The reef is of pyritic banket, which lies with a dip of i in 12 to the south-east. While on this subject, it may be well to state that in three or four parts of Zululand extensive gold areas have been favourably reported on. The attractions of the Rand with its many capitalists have so far overshadowed the claims of Zululand to be regarded as a mining country, but the steady and extensive work now being carried out will, it is hoped, bring its due reward, and within the next few years result in permanent success. Returning to Glencoe Junction, the journey along the main line is resumed. A distant and pleasant last glimpse of Dundee is obtained ; the line meanwhile traversing a succession of grassy plains and hills, similar to those in the vicinity of Ladysmith. Coalfields Station, 238J miles from Durban, 4,043 feet in altitude, together with Dannhauser, 245! miles from Durban, 4,430 feet in altitude, are next passed. The country in this vicinity is extremely uninteresting from a picturesque point of view, but the knowledge that every foot of ground, bleak as it may look, covers the future wealth and prosperity of the land, fully compensates for the monotony of its surface. ingagane, At lugaganc Station, the historic area of the Boer War of 259^ miles ° ° ' from 1 88 1 is entered upon. The station lies in an open valley, or (' Durban. '■ -\it. 3,900ft. rather on a plain, bounded by low grassy hills, on whose slopes farm-houses are visible. At the drift of the river which gives its name to the station, several encounters between reconnoitring parties of Transvaalers and British troops took place. Leaving the station, the river is crossed and a glimpse obtained of the traffic bridge slightly further up stream, which at this point is narrow and deep. 268 miles The town of Newcastle is sighted shortly afterwards. At Durban, the first glimpsc, it, like Harrismith, appears to be somewhat .Ml. 3,892ft. 246 bleakly situated, but such is not the case. Stretching for a long distance on the left of the line, its galvanized iron roofs glittering amongst the dark foliage of the avenues of blue-gum trees, suggest an ideal frontier town. It was surveyed and laid out in 1864 b>- Dr. Sutherland, and named after the Duke of Newcastle, who was then Secretary of State for the Colonies. At that time the plains FOUNTAIN SCENERY NATAL. ON THE WA TO THE ZULULANO GOLD FIELDS. in the vicinity swarmed with wildebeest, quagga, and deer. Mr. John Parks, M.I..A., who is the only remaining original settler, indirectly started a traffic in game, hides and skins, which was in time destined to assume considerable propor- tions, but resulted in the game being speedil)' driven away. With the removal of this source of revenue, more settled and lucrative branches of industry were opened up, and to-day Newcastle stands well in the forefront of the commercial life of the Colony. 247 It is the scat of magistracy for the division of Newcastle, Khp River County, and Sir Mehnoth Osborn, K.C.M.G., was the first Resident Magistrate. The town was incorporated in August, 1S91, and the Hon. A. J. Crawford, M.L.C., elected Mayor, an office which he has since held. The population at the recent census was 1,200 Europeans and about 600 coloured people. The assessed value of property in the borough in 1894 was ^^104,195. Upon this assessment, rates are levied as follows : General rate twopence in the pound, and water rate halfpenny in the pound. In addition to the alienated erven, there are 236 erven in the town, belonging to the Corporation, valued at twenty pounds each, this being the average fixed for the purpose of arriving at the financial position of the borough. The town lands, in extent 17,255 acres, are set down at ten shillings per acre, which is considered much below their value. An experiment in the way of leasing the lands for grazing purposes is to be tried presently, with the object, if possible, of effecting a reduction in the rates. The town possesses an important Agricultural Society, a Government School, a Public Library and Reading Room containing 3,000 volumes. Literary and several Friendly Societies, Sporting Club, and Masonic Lodge. The Church of South Africa, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Dutch, and Wesleyan Native Missions, have places of worship here. A Woollen Factory Company, with a capital of ;^io,000, has been established in the vicinity of the town, for the purpose of manufacturing tweeds and blankets from locally produced wool. In order to encourage the industry, the Government offered a bonus of ^1,700 for the production of the first 5,000 yards of tweed within a given period. This was easily secured, for within the first eighteen months of its existence, the company manufactured 39,780 yards of tweed with a value of ;^7,345 12.$'. 8^. The factory employs twenty whites, many of whom have been specially introduced from tlurope for the industry. The machinery 248 is all of a good type, and is driven by water power with a turbine wheel of 20 h.p. Tweeds and blankets of first-class quality are produced and finished in a style which would reflect credit on an older establishment. The enterprise was started in a public-spirited :rest of dum our jOld fields 6.000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL. manner, and should be loyally supported, for it is by the maintenance of such institutions that the truest interests of the country can be served. A detailed description of the process of weaving is un- necessary in this place, as the industry is of too widespread a character to require more than this passing mention. The coal mines of the district are another source of wealth, and it is hoped when other trade facilities have been increased, that the mines will add materially to the revenue of the country. On the town lands near the Ingagane River, is located the Newcastle Colliery Company's propert}'. With this property the Southern Cross Syndicate mine is incor- porated. The works here extend o\er an area of 200 acres. They emplo}- four whites, twelve Indians, and 150 natives. A small tramway line connects the propert}' with the Natal Government Railways, and a miniature engine of 20 h.p. brings the coal from the pit's mouth to the sidings. The output from this propert}- for the last two or three }-ears 249 has averaged 12,000 tons per annum; and the coal, at the pit's mouth, is vahied at 8,s-. 9^/. per ton. The East Lcnnoxton Mine, situated about two miles from tlie raihvay station, is privately worked by Mr. W. L. Jee. It employs two white men and twenty natives, and has an average output of 200 tons per month, valued at Sj. per ton at the pit's mouth ; the difference of ninepence per ton in the price being accounted for by the coal having to be carted to the station. Of the other mines in the vicinit)-, but little can be said. The Lennoxton has been worked somewhat irregularly, and its output is registered at fifty tons of good coal per month. There are several others in course of development, while the Crown lands in the vicinity of Newcastle are alleged to be all more or less coal-bearing. The Incandu River flows close b)' the town, and perhaps the only spot of historic interest in the vicinity is the bluff- like mass of Fort Amiel, which overlooks the settlement to the north-westward. Away in the distance, the bold clift's of the Drakensberg lift their crests high in mid-air, while the open plain surrounding the town is in summer a veritable garden of lilies and countless other blossoms. :5o SECTION XX. NEWCASTLE TO VOLKSRUST. THE TRANSVAAL REPUBLIC. ON leaving the station at Newcastle, some neat and home-like cottages flank the line on the left. For a considerable distance from the depot itself, the commodious goods sheds required by the trade of the district extend. The Incandu River, which flows close to the line, provides fairly good fishing. Barbel scaling up to fourteen pounds are frequently landed. The country remains open for some time, the only features of especial interest observable from the train being the panoramic view of the Berg on the left. The range at this point trends to the eastward, and begins to lose something of its rugged grandeur as it nears that mountain of historic memories, Amajuba. About here a marked improvement may be noted from an agricultural jjoint of view. Farms and plantations abound on every hand, but as a rule scant attention is paid by the traveller to such matters, for almost every hill has a history attached to it, in connection with the war of inist, After passing the si)ruit, which is bridged with an iron 306* niiiJs structure of three spans, each 40 feet in length, the train Durban. Icavcs Natal at the furthest limit of its north-western frontier, Alt. 5,300 ft. , * and enters the 1 ransvaal. A quarter of a mile beyond this point the border town of the Republic is located. Volksrust, like Charles- town, is at present in an embryo state. It consists of about 250 dwelling-houses, built principall)' of iron. Hotel accom- modation of a fairly good description is obtainable. The principal places of business are the establishments of Messrs. F. W. Murray & Co, J. Nel, and Fisher & Co. On the other side of a small rivulet Mr. Michaelson has a store, opposite which stands the monument erected in memory of those who fell in this vicinity in the war of 1881. It consists of a stone pillar with names inscribed, the whole being fenced in with an iron railing. A considerable business is done here in wool purchasing, about 8,000 bales per season changing hands. A steam mill is in full swing in the place. Volksrust being the junction of roads for Ermelo, Lake Chrissie, Barberton, Wakkerstroom, Rolfontein, Johannesburg, Middelburg and Leydenburg, naturally presents a busy scene when the trains of wagons are in with their loads. The South The Transvaal territory lies between the 22nd and 28th Repubifc! parallel of South Latitude, and the 25th and 32nd degrees of East Longitude. The area of the country is 1 1 3,642 square miles. Its population of 119,937 is made up as follows: — Transvaal born, 59,394; Cape born, 29,285; Free State born, 11,527 ; Natal born, 3,977 ; aliens of all nations, 14,334; Hollanders, 1,420. Those entitled to vote are given as 12,439, and the number of men from 16 to 60 years of age liable to military service, is set down at 37,378. Of the native population, there are said to be 649,560 souls, but as no census has been taken, this is regarded as vastly under the fact. The country is divided into districts as follows : — Pretoria (chief town Pretoria) ; Potchefstroom (chief town Potchefstroom) ; Rustenburg (chief town Rustenburg) ; Waterberg (chief town Nylstroom) ; Zoutpansberg (chief town Pietersburg) ; Lyden- 258 burg (chief town Lydenburg) ; Midclclburg (chief town Middel- burg) ; Heidelberg (chief town Johannesburg) ; Wakkcrstroom (chief town M. W. Stroom) ; Utrecht (chief town Utrecht) ; Bloemhof (chief town Christiana) ; Marico (chief town Zeerust) ; Standerton (chief town Standerton) ; Ennelo (chief town Ermelo) ; Lichtenburg (chief town Lichtenburg) ; Vryheid (chief town Vryheid), and Piet Rctief (chief town Piet Retief). Klerksdorp, Carohna (chief town CaroHnaj, Krugersdorp, and Wohnaransstad have been declared separate districts. The southern portion of the territory is traversed from west to east by a high plateau, which forms the watershed between the rivers running south and those running north, of which the chief are the Vaal and the Limpopo. Besides this plateau, called the Hooge Veld, there are three mountain ranges which cross the country from west to east, of which the most northerly is called the Zoutpansberg, in the district of the same name. Detached ranges, which are continuations of the Drakensberg, extend from the Natal boundary across the Olifant's River as far as the Limpopo, the northern limit of the Transvaal. These rise in places to some 7,000 feet. Owing to the elevation of the country, which is about 4,000 feet above the sea, the climate is healthy, the winter being especially bracing. This season extends from April to August, and is generally dry. The monthly mean temperature during the summer ranges from 65 to 73 , and during the winter from 59° to 65". The country is well watered, and, as in the Erce State, it is supplied with numerous pans or lakelets, the largest of which is Lake Chrissie, ^6 miles in circumference. Horses, cattle and sheep thrive well, and in the middle and northern parts of the Republic, vegetation is luxuriant and many extensive forests occur. The Government is administered by a President, Executive and Legislative Councils, the latter of which is named the Volksraad. The Grand Wet, or P\mdamental Law of 1858, declares 259 that the law of tlic country shall be Roman-Dutch, and the text-book the Institutes of Van der Linden and Grotius. There is a High Court, to which all final appeals arc made, and this Court has also the fullest jurisdiction in criminal matters. The inferior Court is the Landdrost's Court in each district, who has hmited jurisdiction — in civil matters to the extent of ^lOO in illiquid, and ^^500 in liquid cases ; appeal can be made from the Landdrost's decision to the Circuit Court. 260 SECTION XXI. VOLKSRUST TO JOIIANNESHURC} AND PRETORIA. LEAVING Volksrust en ronte to that great centre of ^ attraction, Johannesburg, the traveller may prepare his mind for a series of surprises. The scenic glories of Natal have become merged in the interminable and monotonous plains which at one time would have been described almost as desert ; but there is a consciousness that under the sward there lies hidden, unbounded and potential wealth. The very rocks by the wayside may contain those tiny grains which constitute the power of nations. Even the brown dust swept up by the passing wind suggests ideas of gold, and as the sun sets in the west, the yellow flare tells of the city whose foundations are on gold, and whose workers are day by day producing a wealth which has brought the country into the prominent position it now holds. As in the Free State, the train, freed from heavy gradients, now booms along without apparent effort. The view from the carriage windows, though no longer mountainous, is b)- no means lacking in attraction. In summer the grass, green as emerald, clothes every hill and vale. In winter a peculiar purple flush tones it, until in places the whole country glows like a transformation scene. The passing shadow of a great cloud, a gathering storm on the distant horizon, and the bright full sunshine, all tend to impart a delightful sensation of freedom and luxury. It is hard to believe in the existence even of crowded cities and toiling millions. The old world with its trodden ways seems far removed, and the thought natiu-alh' rises of the ccstacy that would fill the hearts of those whose lives are cast in grimy 261 cities, could thc\- be suddenly placed in this land of perpetual sunshine. Now and again the distant outline of a range of hills dawns on the sight, as the train, like a ship, passes over the broad rolling surface. At rare intervals, long caravans of 4NCSBURG. wagons, each drawn by sixteen to eighteen oxen, pace slowly across the vievv^ A solitary horseman, like a tiny speck, can be seen for a moment, and then lost ; while a group of deer, with wondering eyes, stand knee-deep in tangle, gazing in terror, and then with a sudden panic, wheel off in long bounds to some sheltering ravine. In the old days, when railwa\-s were unknown in South Africa, the journey from Durban to Pretoria, which can now be accomplished in about 262 twenty-seven hours, was a matter of months : then the traveller really endured the hardships incidental to a journey through the wilds, and the stories of adventure and hair- breadth escapes from ravenous beasts "Who made night hideous with hoarse bellowings" were no idle tales. Later on, when Johannesburg became established, post carts, with frequent relays of horses, reduced the time between the railway terminus in Natal and the Fields, to a few days. A spice of adventure still clung about them ; flooded and unbridged rivers, crossed on rickety punts, torrents INTERIOR OF BATTERY, JOHANNESBURG. begotten of a night's rain, quagmires in which the wheels became imbedded, were familiar incidents, while accidents, more or less alarming, kept attention strained and fixed, sometimes to a painful degree. Nowadays this is altered, and stepping from the steamer at 26; s 2 Durban, the traveller is conveyed to his destination without the slightest fear or j)ersonal discomfort. In dr,e course the V'aal River is sii^dited, and the town of Standerton, situated on its further bank, is entered. There is but slight difference between this settlement and the other outlying towns which have already been described. Most of the business houses are owned and managed by Europeans. As Standerton is an old-established market centre, its buildings are of a much more permanent character than those of Volksrust. While the town is for the most part English, its streets are generally thronged with Boers from the country round about. The portly forms of the farmers with their broad-rimmed hats, in which oftentimes is stuck an ostrich feather, and their simply dressed wives, say much by their ph\'siquc in favour of the climate. Passing on from here to Heidelberg, a change is noticed in the features of the countr)-. The plains are here broken into ridges, each one of which latter has the appearance of a loosely built stone wall. Perched on the side of one of these, is the quaint old town of Heidelberg. This centre has a somewhat interesting history, for in its vicinity there are traces of an old native settlement which at one time constituted the capital of Mosclikatse, the famous Lion of the North, and the founder of the Matabcle nation. In the war of i88i, Heidelberg, which was quite unprepared for defensive measures, was occupied by the Transvaalers, and formed their temporary headquarters when Standerton on the one hand, and Pretoria on the other, were held by the English. The town is built chiefly of uhite sandstone, and abounds in substantially' constructed hotels, stores and dwellings. It has a population of about i,ooo, and was chief town of its district until the appearance of Johannesburg As in Standerton, the trade is principally in the hands of the English. A handsome Dutch Reformed Church occupies the centre of the market square. Passing on from the town, the first hint of the proximity of the gold mines is obtained by the appearance, as in the coal districts of Natal, of occasional 264 head t^car and batteries. The couiiti'}- resumes its open and flat appearance, but away to the north-westward the line soon approaches a long low ridge. This is the far-famed \\'itwatersrand ; and glistening along its crest, and away down to the valley beyond it, appear the spires and roofs of the " African Chicago." Extending for miles on either side of the city, a continuous line of mines, batteries, and head gear can be traced. Approaching this scene on a dark night, it is almost impossible to believe that it has been called into existence within the short space of eight years. Far as the e)-e can reach, the great globes of electric light which arc placed near each head gear, illuminate the night with a vivid white glare. The combined roar of the batteries, softened by distance, sounds like the breaking of the surf on a rocky coast. As the train draws nearer still, outlying villages and suburbs are sighted, and when at length it steams into the station, the expectations which were raised are generall)' fully realized. It is no wayside station this, but the junction of the line with the greatest trade centre on the African continent. As the traveller moves out into the thronged streets, which are flanked b}- two and three-storied ranges of buildings with elaborately finished fronts, he cannot but marvel at and admire the energy, courage and determination which have created so much in such a short space of time. A detailed description of Johannesburg and its history need not be given here, as many works devoted to the subject are available. What is more to the point, and will serve the interest of travellers better, will be a short account of the rise and progress of the Transvaal Gold Fields. When the emigrant farmers first trekked across the Vaal River, their sole idea was the acquisition and stocking of land. When in 1854, gold was discovered, the Govern- ment, fearing an influx of foreigners, prohibited prospecting under heavy penalties. Herr Carl Mauch, a distinguished German traveller, 266 discovered, in ies arc the LARGEST AND MOST IMPORTANT IN THE WORLD. 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An important institution is their Postal Order Depart- ment, by means of xAich Catalogues and Patterns can be sent to all parts of the World, while all goods ordered by post are selected -with the same caxe as if personally looked out by the customer. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 3 1158 00949 0987 ;jC SOUTHFHN Rl l.KiNAI I IBRARY rACILITY AA 000 950 154 5