' How to Visit the English Cathedrals BOOKS BY MISS SINGLETON TURRETS, TOWERS, AND TEMPLES. Great Buildings of the World Described by Great Writers. GREAT PICTURES. Described by Great Writers. WONDERS OF NATURE. Described by Great Writers. ROMANTIC CASTLES AND PALACES. Described by Great Writers. FAMOUS PAINTINGS. Described by Great Writers. HISTORIC BUILDINGS. Described by Great Writers. FAMOUS WOMEN. Described by Great Writers. GREAT PORTRAITS. Described by Great Writers. HISTORIC BUILDINGS OF AMERICA. Described by Great Writers. HISTORIC LANDMARKS OF AMERICA. Described by Great Writers. GREAT RIVERS OF THE WORLD. Described by Great Writers. FAMOUS CATHEDRALS. Described by Great Writers. FAMOUS SCULPTURE. Described by Great Writers. MODERN PAINTINGS. Described by Great Writers. WONDERS OF THE WORLD. Described by Great Writers. PARIS. Described by Great Writers. LONDON. Described by Great Writers. RUSSIA. Described by Great Writers. JAPAN. Described by Great Writers. VENICE. Described by Great Writers. HOLLAND. Described by Great Writers. ROME. Described by Great Writers. GERMANY. Described by Great Writers. SWITZERLAND. Described by Great Writers. TURKEY AND THE BALKAN STATES. Described by Great Writers. FLORENCE. Described by Great Writers. EGYPT. Described by Great Writers. CHINA. Described by Great Writers. LOVE IN LITERATURE AND ART. THE GOLDEN ROD FAIRY BOOK. THE WILD FLOWER FAIRY BOOK. A GUIDE TO THE OPERA. A GUIDE TO MODERN OPERA. DUTCH NEW YORK. Manners and Customs of New Amsterdam in the Seventeenth Century. How TO VISIT THE GREAT PICTURE GALLERIES. How TO VISIT THE ENGLISH CATHEDRALS. SALISBURY; CLOISTERS How to Visit The English Cathedrals By Esther Singleton Member of the Royal Society of Arts With Numerous Illustrations New York Dodd, Mead and Company 1912 COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY Published April, 1912 PREFACE THIS little book is offered to the tourist in the most modest spirit and with the hope that in this convenient form some gleanings from the works of specialists may afford help and pleasure to those who run quickly through the Cathedral towns of England. The subject has been done so often and so well that an additional book would demand an apology if it pretended to compete with the labours .of those who have spent long years in the study of special cathedrals, or with the charming recollec- tions of travel that others have given the world from time to time. My plan has been merely to present in a single volume concise descriptions of the great ecclesiasti- cal buildings of England, together with the story of their construction and historical associations supplemented with criticisms from the best authori- ties of their most striking architectural and artistic features. These authorities are duly acknowledged by initials. E. S. NEW YORK, March, 1912. 266204 STYLES OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE THE cathedral usually grew architecturally from age to age, or rose like a phoenix from the ashes of an earlier building. "Not only is there built into a mediaeval cathedral the accumulated thought of all the men who had occupied themselves with building during the preceding centuries, but you have the dream and aspiration of the bishop, ab- bot, or clergy for whom it was designed; the master mason's skilled construction; the work of the carver, the painter, the glazier, the host of men who, each in his own craft, knew all that had been done before them, and had spent their lives in struggling to surpass the works of their forefathers. It is more than this: there is not one shaft, one moulding, one carving, not one chisel-mark in such a building, that was not designed specially for the place where it is found, and which was not the best that the experience of the age could invent for the purpose to which it is applied; nothing was borrowed; and nothing that was designed for one purpose was used for another. A thought or a motive peeps out through every joint; you may wander in such a building for weeks or for months together, and never know it all." (Fergusson.) Most English cathedrals are built in the form of a Latin cross, the arms of which are called the transepts. Over their point of intersection the central tower is usually erected. The part of the church running westward from this point to the entrance door is the nave and that running eastward to the high altar is the choir. Behind, or east of the choir, is situated the Lady- Chapel, or Chapel of the Virgin, which sometimes viii STYLES OF contained additional altars to other saints. Along the aisles we frequently find side chapels, contain- ing tombs and chantries of dignitaries, local saints and benefactors. The nave usually consists of the main arcade; the triforium (which opens into a passage or gal- lery) ; and the clerestory. The triforium is the arcaded story between the lower range of piers and arches and the clerestory. The name is supposed to be derived from ires and fores three doors or openings, for such is often the number of arches in each bay. Professor Wil- lis, however, believed that the word is traced to a monkish Latin word for thoroughfare. Clerestory, or clearstory, is the upper story of the nave of the church above the aisles and pierced with windows. The windows of the clerestories of Norman work are less important than in the later styles. They become larger in the Early English period and more important in the Decorated, always lengthening as the triforium diminishes. Sometimes the choir occupies two bays of the nave, but usually begins with the screen placed on the east side of the central tower. In olden days this was the rood-screen, so called because a large crucifix, or rood, stood on it. All roods were de- stroyed during the Reformation. At the present time the organ is frequently placed here ; and there is diversity of opinion about the artistic propriety of its position. Entering the choir we see the high altar often with a reredos (French I'arriere dos, i.e., em- broidered hangings). Along the sides of the choir are the seats, or stalls, usually of carved oak, sur- mounted with tracery, arches and pinnacles. Among ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE ix these is the bishop's seat, or throne. Frequently the stalls exhibit beautiful tabernacle-work and the misereres (misericorde), which turn up and afford support to a person in a position between sitting and standing, are generally carved with grotesque and quaint figures and caricatures. Vestries for the use of priests and choristers are often situated near the choir. At the back of the choir (the retro-choir) was placed the chief shrine, where relics of the great saint of the cathedral were kept and to which the streams of pilgrims passed. In many churches the steps and pavements are worn away. Near the shrine was a watching-chamber, where a monk guarded the shrine and its treasures. Further east the Lady-Chapel was situated, though in a few cases it is found on the north side, e. g. Bristol and Ely. " In Italy the bones of a saint or martyr were almost invariably deposited either beneath or immediately, in front of the altar. But in the Gothic nations this original notion of the burial-place of the Saints became obscured, in the increasing desire to give them a more honourable place. According to the precise system of orientation adopted by the German and Celtic nations, the eastern portion of the church was in those countries regarded as pre-eminently sacred. Thither the high altar was gen- erally moved, and to it the eyes of the congregation were specially directed. And in the eagerness to give a higher and holier even than the highest and holiest place to any great saint, on whom popular devotion was fastened, there sprang up in most of the larger churches during the Thirteenth Century a fashion of throwing out a still further eastern end, in which the shrine or altar of the saint might be erected, and to which, therefore, not merely the gaze of the whole congregation, but of the officiating priest himself, even as he stood before the high altar, might be constantly turned. Thus, according to x STYLES OF Fuller's quaint remark, the superstitious reverence for the dead reached its highest pitch, 'the porch saying to the churchyard, the church to the porch, the chancel to the church, the east end to all" Stand further off, I am holier than thou." ' This notion happened to coincide in point of time with the burst of devotion towards the Virgin Mary, which took place under the Pontificate of Innocent III., during the first years of the Thirteenth Century ; and, therefore, in all cases where there was no special local saint, this eastern end was dedicated to Our Lady and the chapel thus formed was called The Lady-Chapel. Such was the case in the Cathedrals of Salisbury, Norwich, Hereford, Wells, Gloucester and Chester. But when the popular feeling of any city or neighbourhood had been di- rected to some indigenous object of devotion, this at once took the highest place, and the Lady-Chapel, if any there were, was thrust down to a less honourable position. Of this arrangement, the most notable instances in Eng- land are, or- were (for in many cases the very sites have perished), the shrines of St. Alban in Hertfordshire, St. Edmund at Bury, St. Edward in Westminster Abbey, St. Cuthbert at Durham, and St. Etheldreda at Ely." (A. P. S.) Sedilia, seats used by the priest, deacon and sub- deacon during the pauses in the mass, are generally cut into the south walls of churches, separated by shafts or species of mullions and surmounted by canopies, pinnacles or other elaborate adornments. The piscina and aumbry are sometimes attached to them. The piscina is a hollowed out niche with drain to carry away the water used in the ablutions dur- ing mass. After the Thirteenth Century there is scarcely an altar in England without one. Some- times the piscina is in the form of a double niche. Beneath the cathedral there is often a crypt in reality a second church, often of great size. ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xi "We may be tempted to ask, what is the purpose of a crypt? Some have said that it was merely meant to give dignity to the church, or to avoid the damp. It appears, however, to be a custom taken from the very early Christian churches at Rome, which were in many cases built over the tomb of a martyr, and had therefore a lower and an upper church. Indeed if we imagine the central portion of the choir steps removed so that the nave floor might extend without interruption to the crypt, and a clear view of the crypt be open to the nave, we should have an arrangement precisely similar to that of several Italian churches, notably that of San Zenone, at Verona." (F. and R.) As a rule, the monastic buildings, refectory, dor- mitory, infirmary, etc., were built on the south side, and here were also the cloisters, those pleasant walks and seats for exercise and recreation sur- rounding a peaceful quadrangle. The slype, or passage on the east side, led to the monks' cemetery. In the chapter-house the monks transacted their business. The chapter-house, often one of the richest and most beautiful portions of the cathedral, may be of any form. Those of Canterbury, Exeter, Chester and Gloucester are oblong; those of Salisbury, Wells, Lincoln, Yofk and Westminster are octago- nal; and that of Worcester is circular. At Salis- bury, Wells, Lincoln and Worcester a single mas- sive shaft supports the vault. In examining a cathedral we must remember that many changes have taken place since the first stone was laid. If the monks were fortunate enough to have a full treasury, they kept up with the architectural styles. They would pull down the old nave, or choir, or tran- septs, and erect new buildings, lower the pitch of xii STYLES OF the roof, add a new porch or door, or insert new windows in the ancient walls. Fires were frequent and lightning and winds often played havoc with towers and spires. Such manifestations of the dis- pleasure of the elements or saints necessitated re- building; and, as a rule, this rebuilding was under- taken in the latest fashion. Therefore-, we find in most cathedrals specimens of many styles of archi- tecture. "As we see our cathedrals now, the view that meets us differs much from that which would have greeted us in mediaeval times. Then all was ablaze with colours. Through the beautiful ancient glass the light gleamed on tints of gorgeous hues, and rich tapestries and hangings, on walls bedight with paintings, and every monument, pier and capital were aglow with coloured decorations. We have lost much, but still much remains. A't the Reforma- tion the avaricious courtiers of Henry VIII. plundered our sacred shrines, and carried off under the plea of ban- ishing superstition vast stores of costly plate and jewels, tapestry and hangings. In the Civil War time riotous, fanatical soldiers wrought havoc everywhere, hacking beau- tifully-carved tombs and canopies, destroying brasses, and mutilating all that they could find. Ages of neglect have also left their marks upon our churches; and above all the hand of the ignorant and injudicious 'restorer' has fallen heavily on these legacies of Gothic art, destroying much that was of singular beauty, and replacing it by the miserable productions of early Nineteenth Century fabri- cation." (P. H. D.) And now, in order to make our visits more en- joyable, let us refresh our memories with a slight resume of the four leading styles of English Archi- tecture. The Pointed Arch appeared almost simultane- ously in all the civilized countries of Europe. It was probably discovered by the Crusaders in the ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xiii Holy Land and brought home by them. None of its charming and beautiful accessories, however, accompanied it; the graceful clusters of pillars, the tracery and mullions were to be developed by the Europeans. One of the first to use the word Gothic to define Pointed Architecture was Sir Henry Wotton; and it seems that the word was finally determined as a definition by Sir Christo- pher Wren. An English critic says: " The pointed arch was a graft on the Romanesque, Lom- bard and Byzantine architecture of Europe, just as the circular arch of the Romans had been on the columnar ordinances of the Greeks ; bwt with a widely different result. The amalgamation in the latter case destroyed the beauty of both the stock and the scion ; while in the former the stock lent itself to the modifying influence of its para- sitical nursling, gradually gave up its heavy, dull and cheerless forms, and was eventually lost in its beautiful offspring, as the unlovely caterpillar is in the gay and graceful butterfly." Although Pointed or Gothic Architecture de- veloped with almost equal vigour in every country of Europe, it reached its greatest perfection in France. Many of the finest earliest buildings in England were, to a great extent, French in their origin, or development; but, hi the course of time, English Gothic Architecture became very original. In this country " Gothic architecture seems to have attained its ultimate perfection in the Fourteenth Century, at which period everything belonging to it was conceived and executed in a free and bold spirit, all the forms were graceful and natural, and all the details of foliage and other sculptures were copied from living types, with a skill and truth of drawing which has never been surpassed. Conventional forms were in a great measure abandoned, and it seems to have been rightly and truly considered that the fittest xiv STYLES OF monuments for the House of God were faithful copies of His works; and so long^ as this principle continued to be acted on, so long did Gothic architecture remain pure. But in the succeeding century, under the later Henrys and Edwards, a gradual decline took place : everything was moulded to suit a preconceived idea, the foliage lost its freshness, and was moulded into something of a rect- angular form; the arches were depressed, the windows lowered, the flowing curves of the tracery converted into straight lines, panelling profusely used, and the square form everywhere introduced ; until at length the prevalence of the horizontal line led easily and naturally to the Renaissance of the classic styles, though in an impure and much degraded form. The mixture of the two styles first appears in the time of Henry VII., a period in which (though remarkable for the beauty and delicacy of its details) the grand conceptions of form and proportion of the previous century seem to have been lost. Heaviness or clumsiness of form, combined with exquisite beauty of detail, are the characteristics of this era." (J. H. P.) The styles are generally classified as follows: I. Norman, or Romanesque; II. Early English; III. Decorated; IV. Perpendicular. " Soon after the Norman Conquest a great change took place in the art of building in England. On consulting the history of our cathedral churches, we find that in almost every instance the church was rebuilt from its foundations by the first Norman bishop, either on the same site or on a new one; sometimes, as at Norwich and Peterborough, the cathedral was removed to a new town altogether, and built on a spot where there was no church before; in other cases, as at Winchester, the new church was built near the old one, which was not pulled down until after the relics had been translated with great pomp from the old church to the new. In other instances, as in York and Canterbury, the new church was erected on the site of the old one, which was pulled down piecemeal as the new work progressed. These new churches were in all cases on a much larger and more magnificent scale than the old. ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xv " Strictly speaking, the Norman is one of the Roman- esque styles, which succeeded to the old Roman; but the Gothic was so completely developed from the Norman that it is impossible to draw a line of distinction between them; it is also convenient to begin with the Norman, because the earliest complete buildings that we have in this country are of the Norman period, and the designs of the Norman architects, at the end of the Eleventh Century and the beginning of the Twelfth, were on so grand a scale that many of our finest cathedrals are built on the foundations of the churches of that period, and a great part of the walls are frequently found to be really Norman in construction, although their appearance is so entirely altered that it is difficult at first to realise this; for in- stance, in the grand cathedral of Winchester, William of Wykeham did not rebuild it, but so entirely altered the appearance that it is now properly considered as one of the earliest examples of the English Perpendicular style, of which he was the inventor ; this style is entirely confined to England ; it is readily distinguished from any of the Con- tinental styles by the perpendicular lines in the tracery of the windows, and in the panelling on the walls; in all the foreign styles these lines are flowing or flame-like, and for that reason they are called Flamboyant; a few windows with tracery of that style are met with in England, but they are quite exceptions." (J. H. P.) The works of this period were colossal. Peter- borough was begun in 1117 an d finished in 1143; the nave of Norwich was built between 1122 and 1145; Canterbury was finished in 1130; and part of Rochester in the same year. In the time of William Rufus all the Saxon cathedrals were being rebuilt on a larger scale. From this reign date the crypt of Worcester ; crypt, arches of the nave and part of the transepts of Gloucester; the choir and transepts of Durham; and the choir and transepts of Norwich. In the reign of Henry I. the choirs of Ely, Roch- ester, Norwich and Canterbury were dedicated; xvi STYLES OF and among the new works begun were the n of Durham and the choir of Peterborough. "The piers in the earlier period are either square solu masses of masonry, or recessed in the angles in the sam manner as the arches, or they are plain, round massiv pillars, with frequently only an impost of very simpl character, but often with capitals. " The capitals in early work are either plain, cubica masses with the lower angles rounded off, forming a sor of rude cushion shape, as at Winchester, or they hav a sort of rude volute, apparently in imitation of th Ionic, cut upon the angles; and in the centre of eac face a plain square block in the form of the Tau cross i left projecting, as if to be afterwards carved. The seal loped capital belongs to rather a later period than the plain cushion or the rude Ionic, and does not occur before the time of Henry I. This form of capital was perhaps the most common of all in the first half of the Twelfth Century, and continued in use to the end of the Norman style. The capitals were frequently carved at a period subsequent to their erection, as in the crypt at Canter- bury, where some of the capitals are finished, others half- finished, with two sides blank and others not carved at all. In later Norman work the capitals are frequently orna- mented with foliage, animals, groups of figures, etc., in endless variety. The abacus throughout the style is the most characteristic member, and will frequently distinguish a Norman capital when other parts are doubtful. " Norman ornaments are of endless variety; the most common is the chevron, or zigzag, and this is used more and more abundantly as the work gets later; it is found at all periods even in Roman work of the Third Century and probably earlier, but in all early work it is used sparingly, and the profusion with which it is used in late work is one of the most ready marks by which to dis- tinguish that the work is late. The sunk star is a very favourite ornament throughout the style; it occurs on the abacus of the capitals in the chapel of the White Tower, London, and it seems to have been the forerunner of the tooth-ornament. The billet is used in the early part of Peterborough, but discontinued in the later work, and ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xvii not often occur in late work. It is sometimes square, more frequently rounded. The beak-head, the cat's-head, the small medallions with figures and the signs of the zodiac, all belong to the later Norman period. In the later Norman mouldings a mixture of Byzantine char- acter is seen on the ornaments as at Durham. It has also been observed that in the sculpture of the period of the late Norman style there is frequently a certain mix- ture of the Byzantine Greek character brought home from the East by the Crusaders, who had returned. This is also one of the characteristics of the period of the Tran- sition." (J. H. P.) The next period that of the Transition in which the science of vaulting received great im- petus and construction became more elegant and graceful in line, is splendidly exhibited at Canter- bury in the work of the French William of Sens and his successor, the English William. Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford, is also a fine example of late Norman and Transitional work. The Early English Style covers the reigns of Richard L, John and Henry III., from 1189 to 1272. It is known also as the First Pointed, or Lancet, and is a purely English variety of Gothic Archi- tecture. The developments were always in the line of greater lightness and elegance. There was also throughout this period a great use of delicate shafts of polished Purbeck marble for doorways, windows and arcades. Canterbury, Rochester and Lincoln are famous examples. Canterbury was completed in 1184; Rochester in 1201-1227; and much of Lincoln was finished (especially the choir and eastern transept with its chapels) before 1200. Salisbury Cathedral, however, is usually consid- ered as The Type of the Early English style, because xviii STYLES OF it is less mixed than any other building of the same importance. It was commenced in 1220 and conse- crated in 1258. The choir and apse of Westminster Abbey and the north transept of York Minster are also good examples of this period. We may note here that it was customary to build the west front imme- diately after the choir and leave the nave to be filled in afterwards. " New ideas and a new life seem to have been given to architecture, and the builders appear to have revelled in it even to exuberance and excess, and it was necessary afterwards in some degree to soften down and subdue it. At no period has ' the principle of verticality ' been so completely carried out as in the Early English style, and even in some of the earliest examples of it." (J. H. P.) " The characteristic elegance of the general architectural design was carried out in all the details. The mouldings were delicately rounded and alternated with hollows so drawn as to give here delicate and there most forcible effects of light and shade. Thus the dark line produced by marble in a pier was continued by means of a dark shadow in the arch; and without considerable knowledge of the science of moulding, it is impossible to do justice to this part of the English Early Pointed work, which has never been surpassed, if, indeed, it has ever been equalled at any period elsewhere. The groined roofs were still simple in design, but a ridge rib was often added to the necessary transverse and diagonal ribs of the previous period. This gave a certain hardness of line to the vault; it was the first step to the more elaborate and later sys- tems of vaulting, and was soon followed by the introduc- tion of other ribs on the surface of the vaulting cells. Few works are more admirable than some of the towers and spires of this period." (G. S. S.) The characteristic of lancet windows applies only to the early part of the style from 1190 to about ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xix 1220 or 1230. After that time circles in the head of the windows of two or more lights came in, and the circles became foliated by about 1230, and continued to 1260 or 1270, when the Decorated style began to come into fashion. " The windows in the earlier examples are plain, lancet- shaped and generally narrow; sometimes they are richly moulded within and without, but frequently have nothing but a plain chamfer outside and a wide splay within. In the Early English style we have, in the later examples, tracery in the heads of the windows, but it is almost in- variably in the form of circles, either plain or foliated, and is constructed in a different manner from genuine Decorated tracery. "At first the windows have merely openings pierced through the solid masonry of the head, the solid portions thus left gradually becoming smaller and the openings larger, until the solid parts are reduced to nearly the same thickness as the mullions; but they are not moulded, and do not form continuations of the mullions until we ar- rive at real Decorated tracery. This kind of tracery was called by Professor Willis plate tracery; being in fact, a plate of stone pierced with holes: it is extensively used in early French work. The more usual kind of tracery is called bar tracery, to distinguish it from the earlier kind." -a H. P.) Doorways are generally pointed or trefoiled, but sometimes round-headed, and small doorways are frequently flat-headed, with the angles corbelled in the form called the square-headed trefoil, or the shouldered arch. Trefoiled arches are charac- teristic of this style. Arches are frequently, but not always, acutely pointed ; and in the more im- portant buildings are generally richly moulded, as in Westminster Abbey, either with or without the tooth-ornament, as the arches at York Minster. The pillars are of various forms, frequently clus- xx STYLES OF tered ; but the most characteristic pillar of the style is the one with detached shafts, which are gener- ally of Purbeck marble. These are frequently very long and slender and only connected with the cen- tral shaft by the capital and base, with or without one or two bands at intervals. These bands some- times consist of rings of copper gilt, as in the choir of Worcester Cathedral, and are sometimes neces- sary for holding together the slender shafts of Purbeck marble. The bases generally consist of two rounds, the lowest one the largest, both fre- quently filleted, with a deep hollow between, placed horizontally, as at Canterbury. In pure Early English work, the upper member of the capital, called the abacus, is circular and consists, in the earlier examples, simply of two rounds, the upper one the largest, with a hollow between them; but in later examples the mouldings are frequently in- creased in number and filleted. Mouldings are chiefly bold rounds, with equally bold and deeply cut hollows, which produce a strong effect of light and shade. Vaults are bolder than during the Norman period and differ from succeeding styles by their greater simplicity, as at Salisbury. In the earlier examples there are ribs on the angles of the groins only; at a later period the vaulting becomes more complicated, as at West- minster. There is a longitudinal rib, and a cross rib along the ridge of the cross vaults, and fre- quently also an intermediate rib on the surface of the vault. The bosses are rare at first, more abun- dant afterwards: they are generally well worked and enriched with foliage. English vaults are sometimes of wood only, as in York Minster, and the cloisters at Lincoln. A vault is, in fact, a ceil- ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxi ing, having always an outer roof over it. There is a marked distinction in the construction of Gothic vaults in England and France. In England, from the earliest period, each stone is cut to fit its place ; in France the stones are cut square or rather ob- long, as in the walls, and only wedged out by the thickness of the mortar at the back in the joints. Fan-tracery vaulting is peculiar to England, and it begins, in principle, as early as in the cloister of Lincoln about 1220, where the vault is of wood, but the springings are of stone, and cut to fit the ribs of the wooden vault. Buttresses project boldly, and flying-buttresses become a prominent feature. There is a fine ex- ample of a compound flying-buttress at Westmin- ster Abbey, which supports the vaults of the choir, the triforium and the aisles and carries the thrust of the whole over the cloister to the ground. Early English towers are generally more lofty than the Norman, and their buttresses have a greater pro- jection. The spire is usually a noticeable feature. The East End is usually square; but sometimes terminates with the apse, generally a half-octagon or a half-hexagon, as at Westminster Abbey. " Throughout the Early English period there is an orna- ment used in the hollow mouldings which is as character- istic of this style as the zigzag is of the Norman ; this con- sists of a small pyramid, more or less acute, cut into four leaves or petals meeting in the point, but separate below as in Chester Cathedral. When very acute, and seen in profile, it may be imagined to have somewhat the appear- ance of a row of dog's-teeth, and from this it has been called the ' dog-tooth * ornament/ or, by some, the *The dog-tooth being in the form of a four-leaved flower with a projecting centre, has caused some authorities to think it derived from the dog-tooth violet. (E. S.) xxii STYLES OF shark's tooth ornament, more commonly the tooth-orna- ment. It is used with the greatest profusion on arches, between clustered shafts, on the architraves and jambs of doors, windows, piscinas and indeed in every place where such ornament can be introduced. It is very characteristic of this style, and begins quite at the com- mencement of the style, as in St. Hugh's work at Lincoln; for though in the Norman we find an approach to it, in the Decorated various modifications of it occur; still the genuine tooth-ornament may be considered to belong ex- clusively to the Early English. " Another peculiarity consists of the foliage, which dif- fers considerably from the Norman : in the latter it has more or less the appearance of being imitated from that of the Classic orders, while in this it is entirely original. Its essential form seems to be that of a trefoil leaf, but this is varied in such a number of ways that the greatest variety is produced. It is used in cornices, the bosses of groining, the mouldings of windows and doorways, and various other places, but particularly in capitals to which it gives a peculiar and distinctive character. The foliage of these capitals is technically called ' stiff-leaf foliage/ but this alludes only to the stiff stem or stalk of the leaf, which rises from the ring of the capital ; the foliage itself is frequently as far removed from stiffness as any can be, as for instance in the capitals of Lincoln. The stiff stalk is, however, a ready mark to distinguish the Early English capital from that of the succeeding style. We must bear in mind, however, that foliage is by no means an essential feature of the Early English style; many of our finest buildings, such as Westminster Abbey, have their capitals formed of a plain bell reversed, with mouldings round the abacus like rings put upon it, and round the neck. " The ornaments so well known by the name of crockets were first introduced in this style. The name is taken from the shepherd's crook, adopted by the bishops as em- blematical of their office. They occur at Lincoln, in St. Hugh's work, the earliest example of this style, and are there used in the unusual position of being in a vertical line between the detached shafts. They are found in the same position also in the beautiful work of the ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxiii west front of Wells. Afterwards they were used entirely on the outside of pediments, or in similar situations, pro- jecting from the face of the work, or the outer surface of the moulding, as in the very beautiful tomb of Arch- bishop Walter Grey in York Cathedral; and they con- tinued in use in the subsequent styles, although their form and character gradually change with the style." (J. H. P.) The transition from the Early English to the Decorated was very gradual. It took place during the reign of Edward I. The transepts of West- minster Abbey are held up as models of this tran- sition and contain some of the most beautiful work that can be found anywhere. The crosses erected by Edward I. at all places where the body of Queen Eleanor had rested, on the march from Lincoln- shire to Westminster Abbey, where she was buried, are usually regarded as fine early examples of the Decorated style. Easy attitudes and graceful draperies characterise the sculpture of human figures. The Decorated Period dates from 1300 to 1377. It is also called the Middle Pointed, Geometrical Pointed and the Flowing, or Curvilinear, and also the Edwardian, because it covers the reigns of Edward I., II. and III. Exeter Cathedral is a superb example of this style. The nave of York Minster and the lantern of Ely are also noteworthy illustrations. " The general appearance of Decorated buildings is at once simple and magnificent; simple from the small num- ber of parts, and magnificent from the size of the win- dows, and the easy flow of the lines of tracery. In the interior of large buildings we find great breadth, and an enlargement of the clerestory windows, with a correspond- ing diminution of the triforium, which is now rather a part of the clerestory opening than a distinct member of xxiv STYLES OF the division. The roofing, from the increased richness of the groining, becomes an object of more attention. On the whole the nave of York, from the uncommon grandeur and simplicity of the design, is certainly the finest ex- ample; ornament is nowhere spared, yet there is a sim- plicity which is peculiarly pleasing." (Rickman.) " The Decorated style is distinguished by its large win- dows divided by mullions, and the tracery either in flow- ing lines, or forming circles, trefoils and other geometrical figures, and not running perpendicularly; its ornaments are numerous and very delicately carved, more strictly faithful to nature and more essentially parts of the structure than in any other style. There is a very fine window with reticulated tracery and richly moulded in the south walk of the cloisters at Westminster. No rule what- ever is followed in the form of the arch over windows in this style; some are very obtuse, others very acute and the ogee arch is not uncommon. Decorated tracery is usually divided into three general classes geometrical, flowing and flamboyant; the variety is so great that many sub-divisions may be made, but they were all used simultaneously for a considerable period. The earliest Decorated windows have geometrical tracery; Exeter Cathedral is, perhaps, on the whole, the best typical ex- ample of the early part of this style. The fabric rolls are preserved, and it is now evident that the existing windows are, for the most part, of the time of Bishop Quiv.il, from 1279 to 1291. In some instances windows with geometrical tracery have the mouldings and the mullions covered with the ball-flower ornament in great profusion, even to excess; these examples occur chiefly in Herefordshire, as at Leominster ; and in Gloucestershire, as in the south aisle of the nave of the Cathedral at Gloucester: they are for the most part, if not entirely, of the time of Edward II. What is called the netlike char- acter of tracery, from its general resemblance to a fisher- man's net, is very characteristic of this style at its best period, about the middle of the Fourteenth Century. Square-headed windows are very common. Windows in towers are usually different from those in other parts of the church. In the upper story, where the bells are, there is no glass; in some parts of the country there is pierced ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxv stonework for keeping out the birds, but more usually they are of wood only. These are called sound-holes. Clerestory windows of this style are often small, and either circular with quatrefoil cusps, or trefoils or quatre- f oils ; or the spherical triangle with cusps, which forms an elegant window. The clever manner in which these windows are splayed within and especially below, to throw down the light, should be noticed." (J. H. P.) The large rose-window, so conspicuous a feature on the Continent, is rarely seen in England. When it does occur it is usually found in the transept ends. The East Front generally consists of one large window at the end of the choir, flanked by tall buttresses. A smaller buttress appears at the end of each aisle. The arrangement of the West Front is the same, with a doorway beneath the central window. The towers of the Decorated style are usually placed at the west end and are, as a rule, similar to the Early English. The spires differ slightly from those of the Early English, except that there are generally more spire-lights and small windows at the bases and sides of the spire. Lich- field Cathedral is one of the best examples of the exterior of a perfect church of the Decorated style. Its three spires are perfect. The ogee arch is frequently used in small arcades and in the heads of windows. The dripstones, or hood moulds, are generally supported by heads and are frequently enriched with crockets and finials. The arcades that ornament the walls and those over the sedilia are characteristic features of the style. Pillars are clustered and arches richly moulded; they often have the hood-moulding over them. Very often they have what is called a stilted base. The capitals are ornamented with beautiful xxvi STYLES OF foliage : each leaf is copied from nature and often arranged round the bell of the capital. The orna- mental sculptures in the hollow mouldings are numerous, but there are two which require more particular notice ; they are nearly as characteristic of the Decorated style as the zigzag is of the Nor- man, or the tooth-ornament of the Early English. The first is the ball-flower, which is a globular flower half opened, and showing within a small round ball. It is used with the utmost profusion in the mouldings of windows, doorways, canopies, cornices, arches, etc. The other ornament is the four-leaved flower. This has a raised centre, and four petals cut in high relief; it is frequently much varied, but may be distinguished by its being cut distinctly into four petals, and by its boldness : it is sometimes used abundantly, though not quite so profusely as the ball-flower. In some instances the centre is sunk instead of being raised. The battlement, as an ornamental feature in the interior of buildings, is frequently used in this style, al- though it is more common in the Perpendicular. The foliage in this style is more faithfully copied from nature than in any other: the vine-leaf, the maple and the oak with the acorn, are the most usual. The surface of the wall is often covered with flat foliage, arranged in small squares called diaper-work, which is believed to have originated in an imitation of the rich hangings then in general use, and which bore the same name. The groined roofs or vaults are distinguished from those of the preceding style, chiefly by an additional number of ribs, and by the natural foli- age on the bosses. Many fine examples of these remain, as in the Cathedral of Exeter and at York ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxvii in the chapter-house ; at Norwich in the cloisters ; at Chester the vault is of wood with stone springers. After culminating in the Decorated style, Gothic Architecture began to decline in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries. The transition from the Deco- rated to the Perpendicular took place from 1360 to 1399: " This change began to show itself in the choir and tran- septs of Gloucester Cathedral before the middle of the Fourteenth Century. The panelling and the window- tracery have so much the appearance of the Perpendicular Style, that they have been commonly supposed to have been rebuilt or altered at a late period; but the vaultings and the mouldings are pure Decorated, and the painted glass of the Fourteenth Century is evidently made for the places which it now occupies in the heads of the windows with Perpendicular tracery; it must therefore be considered as the earliest known example of this great change of style. In this work of alteration the walls and arches of the Norman church were not rebuilt but cased with panelling over the inner surface, so as to give the effect of the latter style to the interior. This was just the same" process as was afterwards followed at Win- chester by William of Wykeham, in changing the Norman to the Perpendicular style without any actual rebuild- ing."-(J. H. P.) The work at Gloucester was begun as early as 1337. Another fine example is the nave of Win- chester Cathedral. Bishop Edington, who died in 1366, began to alter Winchester into the Perpendicular style. His work was continued by William of Wykeham. "Before the death of Bishop Edington the great prin- ciples of the Perpendicular style were fully established. These chiefly consist of the Perpendicular lines through the head of the window, and in covering the surface of xxviii STYLES OF the wall with panelling of the same kind. These features are as distinctly marked at Winchester as in any sub- sequent building, or as they well could be." (J. H. P.) The cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral are de- cidedly Perpendicular in the fan-tracery of the vaults, but are partly of earlier date and character. Another example of the transition from Decorated to Perpendicular is the choir of York Minster, begun in 1361 and finished in 1408. Its general appearance is Perpendicular. " This style is exclusively English, it is never found on the Continent, and it has the advantage of being more economical in execution than the earlier styles. It remains to describe its characteristic features. The broad distinc- tion of the Perpendicular style lies in the form of the tracery in the head of the windows ; and in fully developed examples the distinction is sufficiently obvious. We have no longer the head of the window rilled with the gracefully flowing lines of the Decorated tracery, but their place is supplied by the rigid lines of the mullions, which are car- ried through to the architrave mouldings, the spaces be- tween being frequently divided and subdivided by similar Perpendicular lines ; so that Perpendicularity is so clearly the characteristic of these windows that no other word could have been found which would at once so well express the predominating feature. The same character prevails throughout the buildings of this period : the whole surface of a building, including its buttresses, parapets, base- ments, and every part of the flat surface, is frequently covered with panelling in which the Perpendicular line clearly predominates; and to such an excess is this car- ried that the windows frequently appear to be only open- ings in the panel-work. Panelling, indeed, now forms an important feature of the style; for though it was used in the earlier styles, it was not to the same extent, and was of very different character, the plain surfaces in those styles being relieved chiefly by diaper- work." (J. H. P.) The great idea of the architect was to correct and restrain the exuberant tracery by introducing ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxix vigorous straight vertical and horizontal lines. Another feature of the Perpendicular style was the groined roof. The ribs of the vaulting were now enriched by cross ribs, which were intersected by more ribs into small panels, which were filled in with tracery. The key-stones were formed into pendants. This network of ribs is called fan-tracery because the ribs spread out like the sticks of a fan. Very beautiful examples occur in Henry VII.'s Chapel, Westminster Abbey, and in the cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral. "The light and elegant style of vaulting known as fan- tracery, which is peculiar to this style, with its delicate pendants and lace-like ornaments, harmonises finely with the elaborate ornament of the tabernacle-work ornament. Fan-tracery vaulting is peculiarly English. The prin- ciple of it began with the earliest English Gothic style, as in the cloisters of Lincoln Cathedral, each stone of the vaulting being cut to fit its place. In France this is never done, each block of stone is oblong, as in those for the walls, and is only made to curve over in a vault by the mortar between the joints. " Arches are not so acute as in the earlier periods ; capi- tals and bases of columns are distinguished by the shal- lowness of the mouldings ; mullions are carried straight through the arch of the windows; doorways consist of a depressed arch within a square frame with a label above; the label moulding is frequently filled with foliage and the space round the arch parallel; towers are often extremely rich and elaborately ornamented with four or five stories of windows, canopies, pinnacles and tabernacles ; porches are also fine, highly enriched with panel-work, buttresses and pinnacles, and often with a richly-groined vault in the interior; and mouldings are generally more shallow than the earlier ones. " There is an ornament which was introduced in this style and which is very characteristic. This is called the ' Tudor- flower/ not because it was introduced in the time of the Tudors, but because it was so much used at that period. xxx STYLES OF It generally consists of some modification of the fleur-de-lis alternately with a small trefoil or ball, and is much used as a crest for screens on fonts, niches, capitals and in al- most all places where such ornament can be used. The foli- age of this style is frequently very beautifully executed, almost as faithful to nature as in the Decorated style, in which the fidelity to nature is one of the characteristic features. There is comparatively a squareness about the Perpendicular foliage, which takes from the freshness and beauty which distinguished that of the Decorated style. Indeed, the use of square and angular forms is one of the characteristics of the style; we have square panels, square foliage, square crockets and finials, square forms in the windows caused by the introduction of so many tran- soms and an approach to squareness in the depressed and low pitch of the roofs in late examples." (J. H. P.) The woodwork of the Perpendicular period is very beautiful : open timber roofs (met with in the eastern counties), screens and lofts across the chancel-arch and richly carved bench ends exist in considerable numbers. "The frequent use of figures, simply as corbels between the windows of the clerestory to carry the roof, is a good characteristic of the late Perpendicular style; they are generally of the time of Henry the Seventh or Eighth. The figure used is generally that of an angel, and each angel is sometimes represented as carrying a different musical instrument so as to make up a heavenly choir." (J. H. P.) Among the best examples of late Perpendicular are Henry VII.'s Chapel, Westminster Abbey; St. George's Chapel, Windsor; King's College Chapel, Cambridge; and Bath Abbey Church. In writing of the latter W. D. Howells so beau- tifully describes this style that no excuse is needed for bringing his definition into this place. He says : " It is mostly of that Perpendicular Gothic which I sup- pose more mystically lifts the soul than any other form ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE xxxi of architecture, and it is in a gracious harmony with itself through its lovely proportions; from the stems of its clustered column, the tracery of their fans spreads and delicately feels its way over the vaulted roof as if it were a living growth of something rooted in the earth beneath." ABBREVIATIONS OF AUTHORS QUOTED A. A. Alexander Ansted F. B. Frederic Bond J. E. B. J. E. Bygate A. B. C A. B. Clifton A. C-B. A. Glutton-Brock J. C-B. J. Cavis-Brown H. C. C. Hubert C Cor- lette A. D. Arthur Dimock C. D. Charles Dickens, Jr. P. D. Percy Dearmer P. H. D. P. H. Ditchfield T. F. D. Thomas Frognall Dibdin A. H. F. A. Hugh Fisher E. A. F. E. A. Freeman F. W. F. F. W. Farrar W. H. F. W. H. Fre- mantle H. Hope C. H. Cecil Hallet L. H. Leigh Hunt W. H. H. W. H. Hart A. F. K A. F. Kendrick G. W. K. Dean Kitchin R. J. K. Richard J. Knight L. Dr. Luckock W. J. L. W. J. Loftie M. Dean Milrnari J. McC Justin McCarthy H. J. L. J. M.-H. J. L. J. Masse P. Dean Patrick P.-C Dean Pury-Cust F. A. P. F. A. Paley G. H. P. G. H. Palmer J. H. P. J. H. Parker T. P. T. Perkins C H. B. Q.-C H. B. Quennell R. Rickman F. and R. Field and Rout- ledge S. Dean Spence A. P. S. Dean Stanley E. F. S. Edward F. Strange G. G. S. G. G. Scott W. D. S. W. D. Sweeting T. Canon Talbot W. Willis Wai. Walcott A.-a-W. Anthony-a-Wood C W. Winston E. W. Edward Walford F. S. W. F. S. Waller G. W. Gleeson White Geo. W. George Worley 'H. W. Hartley Wither CONTENTS PAGE CANTERBURY i ROCHESTER 33 WINCHESTER 46 CHICHESTER 66 SALISBURY 76 EXETER 90 WELLS 107 BATH ABBEY 134 BRISTOL 140 GLOUCESTER '. . 151 HEREFORD 174 WORCESTER 188 LlCHFIELD 200 CHESTER 215 MANCHESTER 222 CARLISLE 227 DURHAM 233 RIPON 249 YORK MINSTER 260 LINCOLN 284 SOUTHWELL 313 PETERBOROUGH 319 EL Y 334 NORWICH 349 XXXV xxxvi CONTENTS ST. ALBANS 360 OXFORD 375 ST. PAUL'S, LONDON 393 ST. SAVIOUR'S, SOUTH WARK 415 WESTMINSTER ABBEY 425 INDEX 445 ILLUSTRATIONS Salisbury: Cloisters ..... Frontispiece FACING PAGE Canterbury: South Porch 12 Canterbury : Nave, east 13 Canterbury : Choir, east ...... 24 Rochester: West front 25 Rochester: Nave, east 40 Rochester: Choir, west ...... 41 Winchester : Nave, west 52 Winchester: Font 53 Winchester: Choir, east. 64 Winchester : West front ...... 65 Chichester .......... 72 Chichester: Nave, east 73 Chichester: Screen 76 Salisbury: North 77 Salisbury: Nave, east 88 Exeter: South-west 89 Exeter : Nave, east ........ 98 Exeter: Choir, east 99 Wells: West front 114 Wells: North Porch . . . . . . . 115 Wells: Nave, east 128 Wells: South-west 129 Bath Abbey : West front . . . . . . 136 zxx vii xxxviii ILLUSTRATIONS Bath Abbey : Choir, west . . . . . .137 Bristol: North 144 Bristol : Nave, east 145 Gloucester: East . . . . . . . . . . 154 Gloucester: Tomb of Edward II .... 155 Gloucester: Choir, east . . . . . . . 164 Gloucester: Cloisters 165 Hereford : Nave, east .. . . . . . ,- . 176 Hereford: North-east . . . . . ... 177 Hereford : Choir ........ . 186 Worcester: South-we^st . . . . . . ... 187 Worcester : Nave, east . . . . ... 192 Worcester: Choir, east . . . . . . . 193 Lichfield : West front . . . . . . . . 200 Lichfield : Nave, east . . . . . . . 201 Lichfield: from East window . . . . .212 Chester: North . . .... . . . 213 Chester: Choir, west ....... 218 Chester: Choir-stalls ( . . 219 Manchester : South . . . . ... . 224 Manchester : Nave, east ...... 225 Carlisle : South-west ....... 228 Carlisle : Choir 229 Carlisle : East End . . . . . . . . 232 Durham: West front .233 Durham : Nave, east ....... 240 Durham : Galilee Chapel ...... 241 Durham: Neville Screen 248 Ripon: South . . : 249 Ripon: Nave, east . > twj . 254 ILLUSTRATIONS xxxix Ripon: Choir, east 255 York Minster: West front -268 York Minster : South . . . . ; . . . . 269 York Minster: Choir, east 278 York Minster: Choir, west . . . ... 279 Lincoln: 'West front ....... 288 Lincoln : Great West Door 289 Lincoln: Angel Choir 298 Lincoln: Choir, east 299 Lincoln: East Window 306 Southwell: North-west 307 Southwell: Chapter-House 316 Peterborough: West front 317 Peterborough : Choir, east 328 Peterborough: South . 329 Ely: West Towers 336 Ely: Choir, east . . . . 337 Ely : East End and Lady-Chapel .... 346 Ely: Lady-Chapel 347 Norwich: East 356 Norwich: Choir 357 St. Albans: North 366 St. Albans: Nave, east 367 Oxford: Tower and Entrance . . . . 382 Oxford: Choir, east . 383 Oxford: Latin Chapel 392 St. Paul's : West front 393 St. Paul's: Choir, east 414 St. Saviour's, Southwark 415 St. Saviour's, Southwark: Nave, east . . 424 xl ILLUSTRATIONS Westminster Abbey : Westminster Abbey : Westminster Abbey: Westminster Abbey: West front .... 425 Poets' Corner . . . 432 Choir, east .... 433 Chapel and Shrine of Edward the Confessor 436 Westminster Abbey : Henry VII. 's Chapel . 437 Westminster Abbey : Cloisters .... 440 Westminster Abbey: South-west .... 441 CANTERBURY DEDICATION: CHRIST CHURCH. FORMERLY THE CHURCH OF A BENEDICTINE MONASTERY. SPECIAL FEATURES: BECKET'S CROWN; DOOR OF CHAPTER- HOUSE; WEST DOORWAY; CRYPT. CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL presents a beautiful effect when seen from a distance, keeping watch over the city that lies in the valley of the Stour, girdled by hills. On one of these hills stands the village of Harbledown, the " Bob Up and Down/' where Chaucer's Pilgrims halted, and from which a charm- ing view of the ancient Cathedral is to be enjoyed. Another fine prospect is gained from St. Mar- tin's : " Let any one sit on the hill of the little church of St. Martin, and look on the view which is there spread before his eyes. Immediately below are the towers of the great Abbey of St. Augustine, where Christian learning and civilisation first struck root in the Anglo-Saxon race; and within which now, after a lapse of many centuries, a new institution has arisen, intended to carry far and wide to countries of which Gregory and Augustine never heard, the blessings which they gave to us. Carry your view on, and there rises high above all the magnificent pile of our Cathedral equal in splendour and state to any, the noblest temple or church, that Augustine could have seen in an- cient Rome, rising on the very ground which derives its consecration from him. And still more than the grandeur of the outward buildings that rose from the little church of St. Augustine, and the little palace of Ethelbert, have been the institutions of all kinds, of which these are the earliest cradle. From Canterbury, the first English Christian city from Kent, the first English Christian kingdom has, by degrees, arisen the whole constitution of Church and State 2 CANTERBURY