UC-NRLF 
 
 175? 
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VxLlTJL 
 
 ,,uV IS 1918 
 
 The State College of [Washington 
 
 LIBRARY BULLETIN 
 
 W. W. FOOTE, Librarian 
 
 Library Director for 
 Washington 
 
 
 HOME ECONOMICS SERIES NO. 3 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE ECONOMICS OF 
 TEXTILES AND CLOTHING 
 
 Prepared by the College of Home Economics and the College Library, 
 for the use of Librarians, Home Economics teachers and 
 others interested in collecting printed informa- 
 tion on Textiles and Clothing Con- 
 servation. 
 
 Introduction by 
 
 Miss Agnes H. Craig, Head of the College of Home Economics 
 
 Director of Home Economics for Washington 
 
 U. S. Food Administration 
 
 Price twenty-five cents. 
 
 Ten dollars per 100. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 This bibliography is the sixth of a series of library bulletins 
 published by the library of the State College of Washington during 
 the past two years. It is offered as a further contribution to the 
 nation-wide movement for conservation of all national resources. 
 Our food bibliography, issued last March, has been received so 
 favorably throughout the country that we hope this also will be 
 of service. 
 
 The appointment of Mr. John W. Scott, Chief of the Textile 
 Division, by the War Industries Board, brings this phase of con- 
 servation very prominently to public attention, and we believe many 
 will be interested in having a carefully prepared bibliography on 
 this subject. 
 
 The list has been prepared by the College Library and the 
 College of Home Eeonoknics iw cooperation. We are indebted to 
 Miss Agnes H. Craig, Head of trie Coliege of Home Economics, and 
 Director of Home EfcGpprifeig$Sr*{&6 S$a;fe of Washington, U.S Food 
 Administration, fov tfee vaiuaBte iitrtroductioh which should be care- 
 fully read by those using the bibliography. 
 
 We wish to express our appreciation to the compilers, Miss 
 Swensen, and Miss Clatworthy, to the members of the library staff, 
 and others for their cooperation in the preparation of this bibliog- 
 raphy. 
 
 August 1, 1918. 
 
 W. W. FOOTE, Librarian. 
 Library Director Washington 
 U. S. Food Administration. 
 
THE ECONOMICS OF TEXTILES 
 AND CLOTHING 
 
 Compiled by 
 Linda M. Clatworthy, Special Bibliographer 
 
 and 
 
 Sadie J. Swenson, Instructor of Textiles 
 College of Home Economics 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Although food economy must continue to be of major im- 
 portance in our war conservation program, economic pressure is 
 directing our attention to other kinds of industrial thrift which will 
 develop a positive and increasingly urgent need for study on the 
 part of our civilian consumers. 
 
 The most notable of these is textile conservation, the im- 
 mediate need for which is indicated by the recent appointment of a 
 Textile Director as a member of the War Industries Board. The sig- 
 nificance of this appointment will be more appreciated if we recog- 
 nize the textile industry in its relation to the other great world 
 industries of food, iron and steel, lumber and building materials. In 
 the number of people employed it ranks first and so far as economic 
 return is involved it holds third place. This normal status has been 
 greatly changed by the war which has seriously disturbed world 
 production in this field and has also caused a marked shifting of 
 emphasis in the use of raw material and manufactured textiles so 
 that unusual protective measures are necessary if a safe industrial 
 equilibrium is to be maintained. 
 
 Much will depend upon our ability to bring in wool from other 
 lands, notably South America and Australia; but the consumers of 
 woolen clothing need not be concerned for many months to come, 
 for it is believed that the stocks of woolen cloth and woolen gar- 
 ments now in the hands of the manufacturers and merchants are 
 sufficient to meet the needs of the public. 
 
 Although cotton is plentiful, and there appears to be a large 
 crop to be taken in this fall, the greatly increased demands on the 
 part of the Government for certain cotton cloths has curtailed the 
 supply for civilian trade and high prices generally have been reached, 
 so high in fact that in June, 1918 the cotton goods manufacturers 
 agreed with the Price Fixing Committee to stabilize the industry by 
 a reduction in prices which would eventually carry through to the 
 consumer. 
 
 383603 
 
Linen is almost out of the market so far as the manufactur- 
 ers are concerned, and while there are still stocks of linen in the 
 hands of merchants, it may be years after the war before normal 
 stocks will be available. 
 
 Silks have been in very great demand for the past two years, 
 and while the Government needs for silk are very much less than they 
 are for wool and cotton, certain kinds of silk are required in large 
 quantities for the making of powder bags, etc.; while the price of 
 silk has advanced very decidedly, the advance has not been so great 
 as the advance in cotton goods. 
 
 Our present emergency undoubtedly promises us a full quota of 
 serious problems for the consumer and indicates in no uncertain 
 terms the need for general textile education as an aid in determin- 
 ing the best ways and means of meeting the situation. 
 
 Our present emergency, however, does not constitute the only 
 reason why this should be done. Through the rapid development of 
 public utilities and their popular extension into the home, American 
 women have long been released from the exactions of pioneer living 
 and have benefited from the privileges of increased leisure, there- 
 fore they owe a greater obligation in terms of intelligent service 
 where industrial problems and workers are concerned. This is par- 
 ticularly true of the textile field because more than any other it 
 involves women in industry. 
 
 Since the time when these industries were taken from the home 
 woman's responsibility has been logically and rightly extended from 
 that of an individual and local consumer to that of a highly social- 
 ized consumer. This transfer of industrial occupations brought 
 about some of the most disturbing economic and social problems 
 that confront us today, such as woman's place in industry, child 
 labor, the minimum wage, etc. Furthermore, since woman really 
 does control the field of consumption through her responsibility as 
 the spender of the income there is every reason why she should 
 have a working knowledge of economic principles in their relation 
 to the problems of the consumer as that men should be familiar 
 with the economics of production and distribution in the larger 
 world of industry. 
 
 There are also many misconceptions that need to be corrected. 
 In spite of the fact that the textile industry in America ranks 
 among the highest in quality and in economic conditions controlling 
 output, people are still bound by the fetish of the foreign trade- 
 mark as mark of quality. Some of the finest woolen materials 
 are made here but must be marked with a foreign trade-mark to 
 give them favor with American customers. Such practice is neither 
 good economics nor good patriotism. 
 
 Another example is that of the dye situation. Color chemistry 
 is the same the world over. American dyes are just as good as 
 
German dyes because they are the same formula. The only way in 
 which American dyes fall short is in variety of color, a condition 
 which is being rapidly changed. The war has so stimulated Ameri- 
 can experimentation in this field that our control of dyes promises 
 to be complete after the war. 
 
 So called standardized dress is another subject about which 
 much absurd theory, neither practical nor desirable, is advanced. 
 Standardization should not mean the adoption of a fixed type for 
 all purposes and for all time, in other words a uniform, but should 
 rather mean the stabilizing and control of the tempo of style or 
 fashion by means of the education of the popular mind in the prac- 
 tice of reasonable judgement and taste. There is no greater aid to 
 this type of economic practice than the intelligent application of 
 the art principles of color and form to problems of dress and fur- 
 nishings. Consciously or unconsciously people express their mental 
 capacity and training through their selection, use and care of 
 clothes. There is undoubtedly an urgent need for great modification 
 and control in this respect but arbitrary measures should not be 
 resorted to. There should be sufficient latitude to provide for the 
 exercise of such freedom in selection and form as shall guarantee a 
 reasonable incentive to the individual to express her ideals and per- 
 sonality through this medium. 
 
 People show a laudable desire to express themselves patri- 
 otically in relation to war measures but frequently find difficulty in 
 knowing how to interpret the various programs of conservation and 
 thrift that are suggested. The first step is to find out what real 
 economy means after which the measure of sane practice will be 
 greatly increased. Economy does not mean parsimony, neither does 
 it mean entire curtailment in either food or clothing. In the former 
 we are learning our lessons with comparative ease but the regulation 
 of economy in textiles and clothing is more difficult and intangible 
 because it is not so consciously a personal matter as food. The 
 processes of production, manufacture and distribution are so numer- 
 ous and obscure in the mind of the consumer that they are not 
 readily or clearly connected with the every-day needs of the average 
 individual. Consumers in this field must undertsand the significance 
 of the laws governing economic and commercial stability so that 
 the peril of industrial panic may be averted. This is the kind of 
 cooperation that the civilian consumer should be able to give our 
 government and its industrial captains at this time as well as in the 
 future days of reconstruction. 
 
 It is with these and other practical thoughts in mind that we 
 have brought together the material contained in this bibliography on 
 the "Economics of Textiles and Clothing." It is not intended to be 
 exhaustive, only suggestive along the more important lines of 
 
thought closely related to the subject in hand. We believe the bibli- 
 ography to be timely as an aid to intelligent and economical prac- 
 tice in the special field of textiles and clothing. Much valuable ma- 
 terial could not be included for lack of space and for other reasons 
 but there has been careful selection with the idea of giving practical 
 aid and a variety of viewpoint on such subjects as: problems of 
 conservation as they are really involved in retail merchandising; the 
 locating of extravagance and where saving in this respect may be 
 affected; style and its control in relation to economy and beauty; the 
 burden and loss involved in our present delivery system, department 
 store practice, camouflage of the bargain sale, return privileges, quan- 
 tity buying, seasonal buying, repair, etc.; the psychology of sales- 
 manship in victimizing the easy customer; economic and social re- 
 actions involved in industrial methods; strikes among women work- 
 ers; fundamental causes of the increased cost of living; the im- 
 portance of the Protocol Agreement between employers and garment 
 workers and its relation to clothing production under sanitary con- 
 ditions, wages, hours, etc. Not only are these topics packed with 
 thought material that will be of practical aid to women in solving 
 their personal problems but which must be appreciated and under- 
 stood if they are to make intelligent use of the suffrage in promoting 
 constructive legislation of any kind meant to contribute to better 
 social and industrial conditions. : . 
 
 We are deeply indebted to Mr. W. W. Foote, librarian of the 
 State College of Washington and Library Publicity Director for the 
 State of Washington for his liberal encouragement of the work, for 
 his contribution in offering all the facilities of the library and for 
 his willingness to publish the bibliography as one of the series of 
 Library Extension Bulletins. Enough credit cannot be given to 
 Miss Linda Clatworthy, special bibliographer, and to Miss Sadie J 
 Swenson, specialist in textiles and clothing in the College of Home 
 Economics. Miss Clatworthy's notable work and wide experience 
 as a reference librarian make her contribution unusually valuable. 
 Miss Swenson's untiring work in the selection and review of books, 
 bulletins and popular articles has been much aided by her long prac- 
 tical experience as one of the first women who undertook this study 
 of textile education as her special field. 
 
 It is hoped that the bibliography will be useful to home eco- 
 nomics teachers of all types, to club women interested in selecting 
 subjects for club study, to social workers, librarians seeking to aid 
 in this field of information and conservation and to the public 
 generally who may be seeking guidance in this wide field of con- 
 servation activity. Signed: AGNES HOUSTON CRAIG,, 
 
 Head, College of Home Economics, and 
 Director of Home Economics for Wash- 
 ington for the U. S. Food Administration. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 * 
 
 Preface 2 
 
 Introduction t 3 
 
 I. The commercialization of textiles and clothing 9 
 
 Development of the textile industry 9 
 
 Economics of the manufacture and distribution of cloth and 
 
 ready-to-wear clothing 10 
 
 System of manufacture and wholesale merchandising .... 10 
 
 Retail merchandising 12 
 
 Training salesmen in knowledge of goods 13 
 
 Style 14 
 
 Advertising 14 
 
 Condition of the workers in mills, factories and stores 15 
 
 General 1,5 
 
 Hours of labor 16 
 
 Wages . . 17 
 
 Textile mills 17 
 
 Child labor . . . . 17 
 
 Clothing industry 18 
 
 Home labor and sweat shops 19 
 
 Consumer's League 20 
 
 Protocol agreement 21 
 
 Retail stores 21 
 
 Dressmaking 22 
 
 Laundries 22 
 
 II. The consumer and reaction of modern methods of merchan- 
 dising 23 
 
 Economics of spending 23 
 
 Extravagance 23 
 
 Shopping habits 24 
 
 Moderation in style and freedom in individual choice 
 in dress 25 
 
 III. Science and fundamental principles of clothing 25 
 
 How to know fabrics 25 
 
 Dyes and dyeing 28 
 
 Hygiene 29 
 
 Economy in selection 29 
 
 Clothing budget 29 
 
 Points in buying .30 
 
 Art .'.' .'.' 31 
 
 Ethics . . 3.2 
 
CONTENTS (Continued) 
 
 IV. Technique of garment making 32 
 
 Sewing and dressmaking 33 
 
 Remodeling 35 
 
 Children's clothing 35 
 
 V. Cleaning and preservation of clothing 35 
 
 Laundry 35 
 
 Chemistry . . 36 
 
 Soaps 36 
 
 Equipment 36 
 
 Removal of stains 37 
 
 Dry cleaning and preservation 37 
 
 VI. The textile situation, 1917-8 37 
 
 Cotton .38 
 
 Dyestuffs 38 
 
 Linen 39 
 
 Leather 39 
 
 Silk 39 
 
 Substitutes , 39 
 
 Wool 40 
 
 VII. Suggestive study outlines 40 
 
 Department stores . . 40 
 
 Schools 40 
 
 Women's clubs 41 
 
 VIII. Key to magazines and bulletins 41 
 
COMMERCIALIZATION OF TEXTILES AND 
 CLOTHING 
 
 DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRIES 
 
 *Bogart, E. L. Economic history of the United States. Ed. 2. 
 Longmans, c 1907-12. $1.75. 
 
 Chapters on cotton and slavery, p 132-4Z; introduction, domesti- 
 cation and growth of the factory system, p 148-88, slavery and 
 the South, p 290-305. 
 
 Note: Any good industrial history of the United States may be 
 consulted, as Coman, McVey or Wright, noted below. 
 
 Brooks, E. C. Story of cotton and development of the cotton 
 states. Rand & McNally, 1911. $.75. 
 
 An excellent reference for elementary courses in history of tex- 
 tiles. Treats of one of the greatest industries of the world and 
 its relation to the life of the people. Approaches the subject 
 from historic and economic aspects in its relation to tne po- 
 litical forces of the world. The author has a thorough under- 
 standing of the subject and presents it in a broad, vital and inter- 
 esting manner; good maps and Illustrations. 
 
 Coman, Katharine. The industrial history of the United States. 
 New and rev ed. Macmillan, c 1905-10. $1.60. 
 
 *Earle, A. M. Home life in colonial days. Macmillan, 1898. $2.50. 
 Portrays life in our country in the early days. Has chapters on 
 flax and wool culture; hand weaving; dress and occupations re- 
 lating to it. An authoritative historical background for the study 
 of the evolution of textile industry in America. 
 
 Kissell, M. L. Yarn and cloth-making, Macmillan, 1918. An- 
 nounced. 
 
 McVey, F. L. Modern industrialism. Appleton, 1904. $1.50. 
 
 Chapter 1 and 2 on rise and development in England and U. S. 
 Price, I. H. King Cotton in field, mill and mart. Outlook 106: 
 
 714-22 My 28 '14. 
 
 *tScherer, J. A. B. Cotton as a world power. Stokes, 1916. $2.00. 
 A fascinatingly told story of the history and growth in economic 
 importance of cotton production and .manufacture, tracing it front 
 mythical times to India. England and U. S. up to the world war. 
 A readable introduction to economics for women, giving a basis 
 for appreciation of the way human clothing needs have influenced 
 world history and are likely to bring further political compli- 
 cations. 
 
 9 
 
Seligman, E. R. A. Economic interpretation of history. Ed. 2. 
 
 Columbian Univ press, c 1907. $1.50. 
 
 Sully, D. J. King- Cotton's impoverished retinue. Cosmopolitan 
 p 253-78 F '09. 
 
 Dawn of the cotton century. Cosmopolitan p 408-11 
 My '09. 
 
 The remedy. Cosmopolitan p 546-53 Ap '09> 
 
 Thompson, Holland. From the cotton field to the cotton mill. 
 Macmillan, 1906. $1.50. 
 
 A study of industrial transition in N. Carolina, a typical cotton 
 state. 
 
 tTryon, R. M. Household manufactures in United States. Chi- 
 cago Univ press, 1917. $2.00. 
 
 A valuable reference for hig-h and normal schools and colleges. 
 Furnishes a background for historic, economic and social phases 
 of textile study and is an excellent supplementary reference to 
 such texts as McVey's "Modern Industrialism." It deals -with 
 such topics as the status and factors affecting- household manu- 
 factures in the colonies; a quarter century of developments, 1784- 
 1809; the products of the family factory; the transition from 
 family to shops and factory-made goods. Advance chapters were 
 issued in Elementary school journal, N & D '1.6. 
 
 *Walton, Perry. Story of textiles. Walton advertising & print- 
 ing co., Boston, 1912. $3.00. 
 
 "A bird's eye view of the history of the beg-inning- and growth of 
 the industry by which mankind is clothed." Has excellent chap- 
 ters on the beg-inning- and development of factory system in 
 England and America and on textile inventors and inventions. It 
 interweaves romance with scientific and economic facts in such a 
 way as to g-ive appreciation and background. Not comparable to 
 any other book on the subject. 
 
 Wright, C. D. Industrial evolution of the United States. Scrib- 
 ners, c 1895-7. $1.25. 
 
 ECONOMICS OF THE MANUFACTURE, AND DISTRIBU- 
 TION OF CLOTH AND READY-TO>-WEAR 
 ";/- CLOTHING 
 
 SYSTEM OF MANUFACTURE AND WHOLESALE 
 MERCHANDISING 
 
 Albert, S. L. Manufacture of men's ready-made clothing. Ameri- 
 can Exporter Ap '17 p 69-70: abstract in Business Dig Ap-Je 
 '17 p 108. 
 Volume and importance of the industry. $1,000.000,000 per annum. 
 
 Bowers, R. What happens to 500,000,000 pounds of wool a year. 
 Harp W 55:17-18 My 20 '11. 
 
 10 
 
Consumption in U. S., wool growing- and processes of manufacture. 
 *Cherington, P. T. The wool industry. A. W. Shaw Co., 1916. $2.50. 
 Concentrates on the hitherto unexplored territory of the buying 
 and selling of wool products, describing in detail the function 
 and importance of wool merchants, selling houses, dry goods, job- 
 bing enterprises and department stores. Chapters on technical 
 processes, imported fabrics, ready-to-wear clothing industries and 
 two valuable chapters on how styles aire set and adapted and 
 their influence in making and selling cloth. Written for students 
 of economics. 
 
 Chittick, James. Silk manufacturing and its problems. James 
 Chittick, New York, 1913. $2.50. 
 
 Written by an authority from the manufacturer's view point, pri- 
 marily for producers and distributors of silk merchandise. 
 Even though much of the book is devoted to the technique of 
 milling operations it gives the consumer an inside view of in- 
 numerable complex factors involved in the manufacture and dis- 
 tribution of textiles; place and methods of advertising and mer- 
 chandising are emphasized in the relation of their final disposal 
 to the consumer. The book' gives the reader a much better 
 knowledge of fabrics and their costs. 
 
 Copeland, M. T. Cotton manufacturing industry of United States. 
 Harvard Univ press, 1912. $2.00. 
 
 Through its broad scope of subject matter it furnishes the requi- 
 site background for the teacher and advanced student in the eco- 
 nomic study of the development of textile industry. Sets forth the 
 relative position of the American cotton manufacturing industry 
 by means of an international comparison of geographical factors, 
 technical methods, labor conditions, and industrial and commercial 
 organizations. 
 
 Dayton, T. S. Story of silk. Harp W 55:12-3. My 20 '11. 
 From silk worm through manufacture. 
 
 Hooper, Luther. Silk; its production and manufacture. Lond. 
 Pitman. $.60. 
 
 This and the two following are excellent little popular English 
 manuals, giving brief introduction to the industry, describing 
 it from raw material to finished product. 
 *Hunter, J. A. Wool. Ed. 2. Lond, Pitman, 1915. $.60. 
 
 Moore, A. S. Linen. Lond. Pitman, n. d. $.60. 
 
 Skidder, H. A. How they sell the wool at Boston. Amer Sheep 
 Breeder, S '17. 
 
 Market grades, where they come from and what favor they meet 
 with buyer. Fundamental market information. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of the census. Census of manufactures, 1914: cloth- 
 ing. 1917. 22p. 
 
 Cotton manufactures, 1$18, 33p. 
 
 Hosiery and knit goods. 1918. 29p. 
 
 Miscellaneous textiles, including jute and linen goods, 
 
 flax, dyeing and finishing textiles. 1917. 25p. 
 
 Wool manufactures. 1918. 47p. 
 
 11 
 
Vivian, G. Ready-made clothes. W H C 37:90 Mr '10. 
 How they are manufactured. 
 
 Note: Some of the best information on textile mills and ready- 
 made clothing industries may be found in the reports and 
 bulletins of the U. S. Bureau of labor statistics, listed under 
 "Condition of the workers." 
 
 RETAIL MERCHANDISING 
 
 *Cooke, J. G. What is a bargain? Delin 78:382 N '11. 
 Cutting down deliveries and return privileges at department stores. 
 
 Lit Dig 55:74 Jl 28 '17. 
 Department store advertising. Outlook 93:853-4 D 18 '09. 
 
 The lure of tea rooms and other unusual attractions. 
 Douglas, A. W. Why don't more women trade with me? System 
 
 D 12 '17 p 466. 
 
 Characteristics of the woman shopper. 
 *Field, C. C. Retail buying. Harper, 1917. $1.25. 
 
 Discusses the buying- policies of department and chain stores as 
 
 well as mail order houses; pricing and stock keeping; display; 
 
 selection of merchandise; instruction of salespeople, etc. Author 
 
 has been connected with such stores as Marshall Field & Co. of 
 
 Chicago, and James McCreer'y of New York. Will also be very 
 
 informing to the woman shopper. 
 
 *Fisk, J. W. Retail selling. Harper, 1916. $1.00. 
 
 Said to be a "guide to the best modern practice in retail stores." 
 While written exclusively for those engaged in selling goods and 
 undoubtedly calculated to help make them 100% alert and effi- 
 cient in that respect, we cordially commend it to the thoughtful pe- 
 rusal of women shoppers. Certain mental characteristics (?) of 
 women to whom salesmen must cater are analyzed and methods 
 of advertising and display calculated to sell by subtle appeal to 
 the senses are explained, all with brutal frankness. Such prac- 
 tices of exploiting the consumer should warn her away f.rom stores 
 which follow them and lay the charge of extravagance at the 
 door of the merchant rather than of the American woman. 
 
 Hollingworth, H. L. Sex differences affecting sales to men and 
 women. Salesmanship N '17 p 362: abstract in Busniess Dig 
 N 28 '17 p 386. 
 
 Hotchkin, Wm. R. Scrapping of old retail evils will benefit ad- 
 vertisers. Printers Ink Jl 26 '17 p 12: abstract in Business 
 Dig Ag 8 '17 p 1165. 
 
 Elimination of waste in merchandising methods will mean that 
 retail stores will no longer depend on their "service" to custom- 
 ers as advertisement but will do straight advertising of quality 
 of goods. 
 
 Kelly, F. C. Foolish things the war may stop. Am M 84:19-20 
 O '17. 
 Wastefulness, including a study of department store deliveries. 
 
 12 
 
Making money out of making women lovely. Am M 83:49-50. My '17. 
 Life story of a successful Fifth ave. milliner. 
 
 *Nystrom, P. H. Economics of retailing. Ronald press, 1915. $2.00. 
 A broad study of retail distribution by a teacher of economics, for 
 the merchant and student. Chapters of special value to the con- 
 sumer, are on the distribution system; the consumer; how retail 
 prices are fixed; the department store, the chain stare, mail 
 order house; price maintenance and public regulation. Especially 
 thoughtful is the final chapter on the ideal retailing system in 
 which immense saving is admitted possible in the cost of distri- 
 bution, ultimately available to the consumer. 
 
 "Once-a-day delivery" is urged at convention of National retail 
 dry goods association, Washington, Jl '17: abstract in Busi- 
 ness Dig Jl 25 '17 p 992. 
 
 *Retailing reforms that make way for more advertising. Printers 
 Ink 26 '17 p 99-100: abstract in Business Dig Ag 8 '17 p 1125. 
 Reforms discussed at conference of Commercial Economy Board 
 with retailers. Restrictions on store deliveries and curtailment 
 of the return privilege. To offset discontinuance of elaborate ser- 
 vice there must be more advertising and sale of nationally ad- 
 vertised brands. 
 
 *Tarbell, I. M. Waste service in shop deliveries: the Commercial 
 economy board appeals to the housewives for needed reform. 
 Housewives M F '18 p 19-20. 
 Why shoe-prices are high. Lit Dig 54:154-5 Ja 20 '17. 
 
 TRAINING SALESMEN IN KNOWLEDGE OF GOODS 
 
 Hyde, G. M. College for retail clerks: university extension work 
 for the man behind the counter. World's W 28:345-51 Jl '13. 
 By the University of Wisconsin, under P. H. Nystrom. 
 *Norton, H. R. Department store education. U S Bur of Ed B 
 1917 No. 9. ; 
 
 Training methods developed at Boston school of salesmanship 
 under Lrucinda W. Prince, including description of courses in tex- 
 tiles, color, and, design, and merchandise with an account of 
 educational work in department stores. Edition exhausted. Try 
 Women's educational and industrial union, Boston, 264 Boylston 
 street. $.25 and postage. 
 
 Prince, L. W. Training for efficiency in department stores. Book- 
 man 43:190-3 Ap '16. 
 
 Towsley, W. B. Training in salesmanship. Nat Educ Assn Pro- 
 ceed 1912:1043-6. 
 
 Style 
 
 Note: The subject of style is here discussed under Merchandising 
 where it originates and in which it has a very special func- 
 tion as a stimulant to trade. 
 
 Agitation for American fashions. Cur Opin 54:251-3 Mr '13. 
 *Archer, William. Making of Paris fashions. McClure's 42:31-47 
 
 13 
 
JR. '14. 
 
 *Cherington, P. T. The wool industry. A. W. Shaw Co. 1916. $2.50. 
 Very important chapters on how styles are set and adopted and 
 their influence in making and selling- cloth. Should be studied by 
 every consumer. 
 
 *Clerget, P. Economic and social role of fashion. Smithsonian 
 
 Institution Kept 1913:755-65. 
 
 By a French teacher at Lyons, France. Authoritative and interesing. 
 Gushing, C. P. Narrow skirt. Ind 72:655 Mr 28 '12. 
 Dauncey, E. C. Functions of fashion. Contemp 99:603-7 My '11. 
 
 Same Liv age 269:790-4 Je 24 '11. 
 
 Argues that shifting- fashion is the note of progress, a stimulant 
 
 to trade and force in civilization. 
 
 Fashion notes. Scrib M 56:681-2 N '14. 
 
 Emblem of prosperity and progress. Murmurs of revolt at hand. 
 *German repudiation of Paris fashions. Lit Dig 54:246-8 F 3 '17. 
 
 For political 'and economic effects. 
 *Groth, C. D. Truth about Paris fashions. L H J 29:8 Mr '12. 
 
 Effort of Paris to keep the leadership in fashion. 
 *How business men forecast the future demand of the public. Cur 
 
 Opin 59:129-30 Ag '15. 
 *Inch of dress costs $10,000,000 in shoes. World's W 33:589 Ap '17. 
 
 Cost of style. 
 *Judgment of Paris. Nation 96:51-2 Ja 16 '13. 
 
 Plea for American fashion and freedom firom the domination of 
 
 Paris. 
 *King, E. M. War, women and American clothes. Scrib M 62: 
 
 592-8 N '17. 
 
 Work of the Natural History Museum, N. Y. in inspiring- Ameri- 
 can designs. 
 McManus, Blanche. American woman abroad. Dodd, Mead, 1911. 
 
 $2.00. 
 
 Chap, on men dressmakers of Paris and London. 
 
 New Paris fashions shown on living models; by Spectator. Out- 
 look 105:6f 3-4 N 22 '13. 
 
 Paris fashions and American women. Craftsman 17:464-7 Ja '10. 
 *Ross, E. A. Social psychology. Macmillan, 1908. $1.50. 
 
 Chap. 6, an excellent analysis of the psychology of fashion. 
 Young, F. "The fashion is always beautiful." Liv age 280:119-21 
 
 Ja 10 '14. 
 
 Beautiful to us while it lasts, a symbol of the contemporary, of the 
 present hours, of life itself. Danger of confusing ideas of real 
 beauty. 
 
 Advertising 
 
 Note: The following brief references are suggestive as to the 
 power of advertising appeal in the clothing business. 
 
 14 
 
Blanchard, F. L. Advertising gives kid leather a quick entry into 
 changing market. Printers Ink My 22 '17 p 423: abstract in 
 Business Dig Ja-Mr '17 p 423. 
 
 Kirchbaum, David. Advertising develops industry in half the* 
 time. Printers Ink Je 7 '17 p 90-4: abstract in Business Dig 
 Ap-Je '17 p 108. 
 
 How it has developed manufacture of men's ready-made clothing 
 in contrast to meagar growth of women's clothing- industry with- 
 out it. 
 
 Making a public trend the advertising's point of contact. Printers 
 Ink Mr 8 '17 p 3-9, 94-101: abstract in Business Dig Ja-Mr '17 
 p 114. 
 Using 1 the "physical culture fad" to advertise corsets. 
 
 Making the trade-name fit the particular appeal of the line. Print- 
 ers Ink F 1 '17: abstract in Business Dig Ja-Mr '17 p 452. 
 
 McCann, Edna. Converting women workers to overalls. Amer 
 Industries My '18 p 18: abstract in Business Dig Mr 27 '18 
 p 406. 
 
 New names hurry up sales of goods that "stick." Printers Ink 
 Ja 24 '18 p 57: abstract in Business Dig F 27 '18 p 291. 
 
 Stern,, E. J. This is how "Maid Marion" dresses are merchandised. 
 Advertising and Selling S '17 p 26: abstract in Business Dig 
 O 17 '17 p 130. 
 
 Sweet, Orr & Co.'s preliminary campaign to exploit new use of 
 overalls for women. Printers Ink F 1 '17 p 45-9: abstract in 
 Business Dig Ap-Je '17 p 14. 
 
 How advertising held Heatherbloom's place five years. Advertis- 
 ing and Selling S '17 p 9: abstract in Business Dig O 24 '17 
 p 174. 
 
 CONDITION OF THE WORKERS IN MILLS, FAC- 
 TORIES AND STORES 
 GENERAL 
 
 Abbott, Edith. Women in industry. Appleton, 1910. $2.00. 
 
 Readable study of women as a factor in American economic his- 
 tory. Relates chiefly to textile and clothing industry, with chap- 
 ter on ready-made clothing. 
 
 Bos worth, L. M. Living wage of women workers: a study of in- 
 comes and expenditure of 450 women workers in the city of 
 Boston. Ann Am Acad 37: sup 90p My '11 (p 65-75 on cloth- 
 ing of the working girl.) 
 
 *Bryner, Edna. Limitations and possibilities of industrial train- 
 ing for women. Ind Arts M 6:89-91 Mr '17. 
 
 Big task of vocational training for women in the sewing trades 
 in which there are 800,000, 1/10 of U. S. working women. Very 
 little being done. 
 
 15 
 
Dorr, R. C. What eight million women want. Small, Maynard, 
 1910. $2.00. 
 
 Chap. 5. Women's demand on the rulers of industry-Consumer's 
 league. Chap. 6. Making 1 over the factory from the inside. 
 
 Henry, Alice-. The trade union woman. Appleton, 1915. $1.50. 
 Account of the movement for and by -women's trade unionism in 
 U. S. Especially chap, on "the huge strike." 
 
 *Kelley, Florence. Modern industry. Longmans, 1914. $1.00. 
 
 Four vitally suggestive lectures, by Secretary of National Con. 
 sumer's League, clearly showing the disintegrating effect of mod- 
 ern industry upon family life and upon health; and the new edu- 
 cation and morality demanded in relation to the industrial system. 
 Should be read by every consumer. 
 
 McLean, A.M. Women workers and society. McClurg, c 1917-18. $.50. 
 Adapted for reading and discussion in clubs of less highly trained 
 women and girls. To be commended for its discussion of indus- 
 trial evils and remedies. 
 
 Mussey, H. R., ed. Economic position of women. Proceed Acad 
 Polit Sci in N. Y. City 1.-1-19S '11. 
 
 Papers by prominent women investigators on the historical de- 
 velopment of women's work in the U. S.; problems of women in 
 industry; and social action, with bibliography by Carola Woerish- 
 offer. 
 
 The protection of women; some laws and lawsuits, a review. Out* 
 look 106:670-3 My 28 '14. 
 Hours, wages and conditions of labor. 
 
 *tU. S. Bureau of labor. Report on condition of women and child 
 wage-earners in the United States. 19 vols. Washington, 
 U S Sup of docs. 1910-12. 
 
 For this federal investigation, the first ever made in America, 
 Congress appropriated $300,000, at the instance of Miss Mary Mc- 
 Dowell, then chairman of the Women's Trade Union League. Study 
 was made of labor force, living and working conditions, wages, 
 processes of the occupations involved and considerable information 
 is included on the industries themselves. Volumes of special inter- 
 est are: 
 
 Vol. 1. The cotton industry. 
 
 Vol. 2 . Men's ready-made clothing. 
 
 Vol. 4. The silk industry. 
 
 Vol. 5. Wage earning women in stores and factories. 
 
 Vol. 9. History of women in industry in the United States. 
 
 Vol. 10. History of women in the trade unions. 
 
 Vol. 12. Employment in laundries. 
 
 Vol. 16. Family budgets of typical cotton mill workers. 
 Note: A summary of the 19 vols. has appeared as Bulletin 175 oj 
 the Bureau of labor statistics. 
 
 Hours 
 
 Brenting, F. O. vs. the State of Oregon. The case for the shorter 
 working day, Supreme court of the U.S. Oct. 1915: brief for 
 
 16 
 
the defendant in error. 2 vols. Reprinted by National consum- 
 ers' league. 289 Fourth Ave., N. Y. City. 
 
 A valuable mine of accurate, pertinent information on all phases 
 of the question of limiting- the hours of labor in industries. 
 
 Wages 
 
 Andres, I. O. Minimum wage legislation. Albany, N. Y. J, B. 
 Lyon Co. 1914. Reprinted from the 3rd report of the N. Y. 
 State factory investigation commission. 
 
 A pamphlet presenting the main facts concerning' the enactment 
 and operation of the minimum wage laws -with some representa- 
 tive opinions on their operation and effect, and a select bibliography. 
 
 Foster,, W. F. ed. The social emergency. Houghton Mifflin, 1914. 
 $1.35. 
 
 Chap. 5 on economic phases (relation of low wages to women and 
 the social evil.) 
 
 Nystrom, P. H. Economics of retailing. Ronald press, 1915. $2.00. 
 
 Chap. 7 on the wages of salespeople. 
 
 *Ryan, J. A. A living wage, its ethical and economic aspect. Mac* 
 millan, 1906. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of labor statistics, Bulletin 167. Minimum wage 
 legislation; by C. H. Verrill. 1915. 
 History, texts and operations of the laws, with bibliography. 
 
 TEXTILE MILLS 
 
 *Lauck, W. J. Condition of the New England woolen mill operat- 
 ive. Survey 27:1772-4 F 17 '12. 
 
 Condition at Lawrence at variance with claim that unrestricted 
 immigration is an advantage and protective tariff a necessity to 
 the American wage earner., 
 
 Moses, K. Other side of the cotton mill. Outlook 113:977-84 Ag 
 23 '16. 
 
 Story of the revolution effected in a N. Carolina town by a school 
 for textile operatives and owner's improvements. Shows possi- 
 bilities. Illustrated. 
 *Sherwood, J. Cotton mill. Forum 57:329-48 Mr '17. . 
 
 Effect on the worker. 
 Sumner, M. B. Broad-silk weavers of Paterson. Survey 27:1932-5 
 
 Mr 16 '12. 
 U.S. Bureau of labor statistics. Bulletin 190. Wages and hours 
 
 in the cotton, woolen and silk industries, 1907-14 '16. 
 *tU. S. Bureau of labor. Report on conditions of women and child 
 wage-earners in the United States. Vols. 1, 4, 9, 16. 
 
 Child Labor 
 
 Note: For history of the agitation against this evil in the textile 
 industries see the bulletins and reports of the National Child 
 labor committee, 105 E. 22nd St. N. Y. City. The recent federal 
 child labor law which barred from interstate commerce the 
 
 17 
 
products of mills, factories and work shops made where child- 
 ren are employed, was declared unconstitutional by the Supreme 
 court, June, 1918. 
 
 Child workers in North Carolina cotton mills. Survey 33:573 F 27 '15. 
 
 Devine, E. T. The new view of the child. Ann Am Acad 32: sup 
 4-10 Jl '05. 
 
 McKelway, A. J. Cotton mill, the Herod among industries. Ann 
 
 Am Acad 38: sup 39-52 '11. 
 
 *Priddy, Al. Through the mill: life story of a mill boy. Pilgrim 
 press, 1911. $1.35. 
 
 An autobiography. First appeared in the Outlook. 
 CLOTHING INDUSTRY 
 
 Barnum, G. How industrial peace has been brought about in the 
 clothing trade. Ind 73:777-81 O 3 '12. 
 
 Bryner, Edna. The garment trades. Cleveland foundation. Sur- 
 vey committee, Cleveland education survey reports,, 1916. vol. 
 19. $.25. 
 
 *Clark, S. A. & Wyatt, E. Shirtwaist-makers and their strike. Mc- 
 Clure's 36:70-86 N '10. 
 
 Clothing industry. Sci Am S 78:266-7 O 24 '14. 
 
 Piocesses and implements used in the industry, with advice as to 
 sanitary and safety devices which should be provided to insure 
 workers ag-ainst accidents and disease. 
 
 Elmmet, Boris. Trade agreements in the women's clothing indus- 
 tries in New York City. Monthly Rev Bur Labor Statistics D 
 '17 p 19-39. 
 
 Goodman, P. & Ueland, E. Shirtwaist trade. J Pol Econ 18:816- 
 28 D '10. 
 
 Hutchinson, W. Hygienic aspects of the shirtwaist strike. Sur- 
 vey 23:541-50 Ja 22 '10. 
 *Lemlich, Clara. The inside of the shirtwaist factory. Good H 
 
 My '12 p 367, 
 An appeal to the women who weair by one of the strike leaders. 
 
 Mailly, W. Working girls' strike; the shirtwaist makers of New 
 York. Ind 67:1416-20 D 23 '09. 
 
 Merriman, C. Searchlight turned on child labor and the tailoring 
 trades. Survey 32:303-4 Je 13 '14. 
 
 Moskowitz, H. Joint board of sanitary control in the cloak, suit 
 and skirt industry of New York City. Ann Am Acad 44:39-58 
 N '12. 
 
 Protocol meeting the cost of living. Survey 38:249 Je 9 '17. 
 
 Agreement between Hart, Schaffner & Marx and the Amalgamated 
 g-arment workers. 
 *Solution of industrial peace. Ind 74:273-5 F 6 '13. 
 
 Explanation of the peace protocol and hope that the entire women's 
 wear industry will be under it. 
 
 18 
 
U. S. Bureau of labor statistics: 
 
 Bulletin 98; by C. H. Winslow. Conciliation, arbitration and 
 sanitation in the cloak, suit and skirt industry in New York. 
 1912. 
 
 Text and description of provisions of the peace protocol signed in 
 1910 between 50,000 garment workers and manufacturers in New 
 York City. 
 
 Bulletin 135. Wages and hours of labor in the cigar and 
 clothing industries, 1911-12, 1913. 
 
 Use for description of the* principal operations in the manufac- 
 ture of men's clothing 1 . 
 
 Bulletin 144. Industrial court of the cloak, suit and skirt in- 
 dustry of New York City: by C. H. Wilson. 1914. 
 Report of the Board appointed under term of the peace protocol 
 for the adjustment of labor grievances. 
 
 *Bulletin 145. Conciliation arbitration and sanitation in the 
 dress and waist industry of N. Y. City. 
 
 Report of the peaceful settlement under the protocol of 1913 be- 
 tween 36,000 dress and waist makers of N. Y. City. Includes de- 
 scriptions and statistids of the industry and its occupations. 
 Bulletin 146. Wages and regularity of employment and stan- 
 dardization of piece rates in the dress and waist industries, 
 New York City, 1914. 
 
 Includes description of the various processes used in the dress 
 and waist industry. 
 
 Bulletin 147. Wages and regularity of employment in the 
 cloak, suit and skirt industry. 1915. 
 
 Yearly earnings in N. Y. and Boston, with descriptive analysis 
 of occupations. 
 
 Bulletin 183. Regularity of employment in the women's ready- 
 to-wear garment industries. 1915. 
 
 Bulletin 198. Collective agreements in the men's clothing in- 
 dustry; by C. H. Winslow. 1916. 
 
 Gives an account of how differences between workers and em- 
 ployers have been settled in the men's clothing industry which does 
 not have the protocol arrangement under which the women's cloth- 
 ing industries are conducted. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of labor. Report on conditions of women and child 
 wage-earners in the United States. 19 vols. Washington, 
 1910-12. 
 Vol. 2. Men's iready-made clothing. 
 
 Van Kleeck, M. Women and children who make men's clothes. Sur- 
 vey 26:65-9 Ap 1 '11. 
 Abstract and review of Labor report, above. 
 
 Where union and employers cooperate. Survey 37:277-8 D 9 '16. 
 Abstract of report of Joint Board of sanitary control. 
 Home labor and sweat shops 
 
 Carlton, Frank. History and problems of organized labor. Heath, 
 
 19 
 
1911. $2.00. 
 
 Chap. 12 on the sweated industries. 
 
 Dorr, R. C. Child who toils at home. Hampton 28:183-8 Ap '12. 
 
 Goldmark, J. Tenement home work and the courts. Survey 35: 
 612-13 F 19 '16. 
 
 Goldmark, P. "Art work in the tenements." Survey 26:114-5 Ap 
 
 15 '11. 
 
 *Hall, G. A. Home manufacturing and poverty. Survey 27:1758-9 
 F 17 '12. 
 
 Industrial home work in Massachusetts. Dept. of research Women's 
 educational and industrial union, Boston, 1915. $.80. 
 A study of the evil of home -work as a phase of modern industrial- 
 ism, analysis of its condition and detailed report of home work 
 in the wearing- apparel industry, with bibliography. 
 
 Industrial home work in Massachusetts. Am Econ R 5:92-4 Mr '15. 
 
 Not so serious in its menace to public health. Economic evils 
 
 in Mass, aire low wages, seasonal employment and child labor. 
 *Kelley, Florence. Problem of sweating in America. Chaut 60:414- 
 
 21 N '10. 
 Odencrantz, L. G. Why Jennie hates flowers. World Outl 3:12-13 
 
 O '17. 
 
 Story illustrating- Italian home work in N. Y. City. 
 O'Leary, I. P. Department store occupations. Vol. 2 Cleveland 
 
 foundation. Survey committee. Cleveland education survey 
 
 reports . 1916. $ . 25 . 
 Sergeant, E. S. Toilers of the tenements. McClure's 35:231-48 
 
 Jl '10. 
 
 Where the beautiful things of the great shops are made. 
 Stone, N. I. Sweatshop, root of all garment trade evils. Survey 
 
 36:499-501 Ag 12 '16. 
 U. S. Bureau of labor. Report on condition of women and child 
 
 workers in the U. S. vol 2, Men's ready-made clothing. 
 
 Chapters 5 and 6 on the sweating system. 
 
 Van Kleeck, Mary. Artificial flower makers. Russell Sage Founda- 
 tion, N. Y. 1913. $1.50. 
 
 An investigation into the flower-making industry which "offers a 
 
 concrete illustration of large industrial problems, seasonal work, 
 
 child labor, home work system." etc. 
 Van Kleeck, Mary. Child labor in home industries. Ann Am Acad 
 
 35 sup 145-9 Mr '10. 
 Watson, E. C. Home work in the tenements. Survey 24:772-81 
 
 F4 '11. 
 
 Consumers' League 
 
 *Baker, N, D. Industrial Liberty in war time; address at annual 
 meeting, Consumer's league, 1917. 289 Fourth Ave., N. Y. 
 City. 8p. 
 
 20 
 
Constitution of the National consumer's league. Ann Am Acad 
 
 36: sup 7-12 S '10. 
 
 *Kelley, Florence. Twenty-five years of the Consumer's league move- 
 ment. Survey 35:212-14 N 27 '15. 
 Leupp, C. D. Not one minute to lose. W H C Je '13. 
 
 Work of the Consumer's League and how to take it up in a town. 
 *Sanville, F. L. Story of the Consumer's league. Outlook 98: 
 
 113-9 My 20 '11. 
 / Uniforms from the sweatshops. Survey 38:519 S 15 '17. 
 
 Note: All publications of the National consumer's league should 
 be valuable. Address 289 4th Ave. N. Y. City. 
 
 Protocol agreement, 1910 date 
 
 *Cohen, J. H. Law and order in industry: five years experience. 
 Macmillan, 1916. $1.50. 
 
 The authoritative 'account of the workings of the protocol or col- 
 lective bargaining between employers and garment workers. Ad- 
 vocates the white protocol label for all ready-to-wear clothes as 
 indication to consumers of their production under sanitary con- 
 ditions and fair treatment as to wages, hours, etc. 
 Cohen, J. H. Control of sanitary standards. National confer- 
 ence of charities and corrections. Proceedings,, 1912 p 429-33. 
 
 *Cohen, J. H. Control of sanitary standards. Survey 29:631-2 
 F 1 '13. Also "The white protocol" p 537-9. 
 Suggests the "white label" for .ready-to-wear clothes. 
 
 RETAIL STORES 
 Butler, E. B. Saleswomen in mercantile stores. Charities pub. 
 
 com., 1912. $1.08. 
 
 A study made in 1909 of working conditions, wages, etc. in Balti- 
 more. 
 
 Christmas curse. Cent 91:312-13 D '15. 
 *Emerson, A. Behind the scenes in a department store. Outlook 
 
 109:450-5 F 24 '15. 
 
 Welfare work of an exceptionally high quality carried on in one 
 
 N. Y. store. 
 Hopkins, M. A. Girls behind the counter. Colliers 48:16-7 My 
 
 16 '12. (Stories.) 
 *Inner workings of a department store. Outlook 110:278-82 Je 2 '15. 
 
 Welfare work challenged by need of better wages. 
 McConnell, M. Study of the working conditions of women in 
 
 department stores. Am City 14:273 Mr '16. 
 
 Abstract of an extensive study made by the Consumer's League 
 
 of eastern Pennsylvania of Philadelphia wages and working con- 
 ditions. 
 Milholland-Boissevain, I. Does it pay the store? Harp W 58: 
 
 12-4 My 30 '14. 
 
 To allow unsatisfactory conditions. 
 
 21 
 
O'Leary, I. P. Department store occupations. Cleveland foun- 
 dation. Survey committee. Cleveland education survey re- 
 ports,, vol 11, 1916. $.25. 
 
 Saturday closing. Outlook 107:330-1 Je 13 '14. 
 In New York. 
 
 Swartz, N. Commercial organizations can aid the early shopping 
 movement. Am City 13:406-7 N '15. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of labor statistics. Bulletin 160. Hours, earnings 
 and conditions of labor in Indiana mercantile establishments 
 and garment factories; by M. L. Obenauer & W. Valentine. 
 1914. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of labor statistics. Bulletin 182. Unemployment 
 among women in department and other retail stores of Bos- 
 ton. 1916. 
 
 Van Kleeck, M. Working conditions in New York department 
 stores. Survey 31:50-1 O 11 '13. 
 Criticism of National Civic Federation report. 
 
 DRESSMAKING 
 
 Bryner, Edna. Dressmaking and millinery. Cleveland foundation, 
 Survey committee. Cleveland education survey reports, vol 
 22, 1916. $.25. 
 
 Tuttle, M. Sewing in other women's homes. L H J 34:20 Ja '17. 
 What it means to be a seamstress at $1.50 per day and how, by 
 adding executive ability and skill, such a woman established an In- 
 dependent shop and became successful. A life story. 
 *U. S. Bureau of labor statistics. Bulletin 193. Dressmaking as 
 a trade for women in Massachusetts; by May Allison. 1912. 
 Evolution of the trade in the U. S.; the trade of today; and indus- 
 trial conditions in it, with bibliography. 
 
 LAUNDRIES 
 
 *Ainslie-Walker, J. T. Disease from public laundries. Good H 
 
 Je '13 p 826-8. 
 
 *Clark, S. A. & Wyatt, E. Women laundry workers in New York. 
 McClure's 36:401-14 F '11. 
 
 Dederer, E. C. Protection needed for laundry workers. Survey 
 4:548-9 S 18 '15. 
 
 Goldmark, J. Waste. Survey 31:273-4 D 6 '13. 
 
 Waste in human energy and detriment to health. Based on Labor 
 Bulletin 122, Employment of women in power laundries in Mil- 
 waukee. 
 
 Pratt, H. W. Laundry problems in N. Y. City. J Home Econ 
 O '12 p 337-44. 
 
 U. S. Bureau of labor. Report on condition of women and child 
 wage-earners in the U. S. 19 vols. Washington '10-'12. 
 Vol. 12, Employment in laundries. 
 
 22 
 
THE CONSUMER AND REACTION OF MOD- 
 ERN METHODS OF MER- 
 CHANDISING 
 
 ECONOMICS OF SPENDING 
 
 Blackmar, F. W. Economics. Macmillan, c 1900-07. $1.40. 
 
 Chap, on consumption. 
 
 *Billings, E. C. Brains and buying. Atlan 111:768-70 Je '13. 
 Bruere,, W. B. & Bruere, R. W. Increasing home efficiency. 
 
 Macmillan, c 1911-12. $1.50. 
 
 Chap. 10 on training- the consumer; first printed in Outlook, S 7 '12 
 
 p 29-34. 
 
 Bullock, C. J. ed. Selected readings in economics. Ginn, 1907. 
 $2.2S. 
 Chap. 8 on human wants and the theory of utility. 
 
 Devine, E. T. Economic function of women. Columbia Univ 
 Teachers Col Tech Ed B 1 O 8 '10. $.10. 
 
 Ely, R. I. & Wicker, G. R. Elementary principles of economics. 
 Macmillan, 1908, $1.00. 
 Chap on economy of spending- and saving-. 
 
 Fetter, F. A. Principles of economics. Century, c 1904. $2.00. 
 Chaps, on: Economic motives, -waste and luxury, reaction of con- 
 sumption on production. 
 
 *Hollingsworth, H. I. Sex differences affecting sales to men and 
 women. Salesmanship N '17 p 362: abstract in Business Dig 
 N 28 '17 p 386. 
 
 Proportion of buying- done by women and specific selling- appeals. 
 *Laughlin,, J. L. Women and wealth. Scrib M 49:199-206 F '11, 
 
 Richardson, B. J. The woman who spends. Ed 2 rev. Whit- 
 comb & Barrows, c 1904-10. $1.00. 
 
 Seager, H. R. Principles of economics. Holt, 1913. $2.25. 
 
 Chaps on: Consumption and values in use. 
 
 *Veblen, T. B. Theory of the leisure class. Macmillan, c 1899. 
 $2.00. 
 
 EXTRAVAGANCE 
 (See also Style, under Retailing) 
 
 Note: According to the 1914 census reports, the total value of 
 textiles and clothing products manufactured in the U. S. 
 runs up to about $3,000,000,000 annually. Merchandising these 
 products probably doubles the cost to the consumer so that 
 total amount spent for domestic products alone in this coun- 
 try is between five and six billion dollars. Unfortunately 
 there do not seem to be available statistics of total of family 
 living expenditures which would enable one to estimate the 
 percent clothing has to the national expenditure. As for in- 
 
 23 
 
dividual budgets a reliable conservative estimate suggests 
 15% for clothes as necessary for efficient dressing; while men 
 engaged in selling place the actual expenditures in this coun- 
 try as high as 42%.* 
 
 *Burns, Shirley. The insidiousness of debt. Forum 58:237-46: ab- 
 stract in Lit Dig S 1 '17 p 52-3. 
 
 *Coolidge, M. R. Why women are so. Holt, 1912. $1.50. 
 
 Chaps on the pursuit of dress; character and clothes. A sympa- 
 thetic but clear sighted and vigorous study of traditional ideals 
 and habits of woman and their reaction upon her behavior -with 
 intent to discover a larger outlook for a truly womanly type as 
 opposed to mere femininity. 
 
 Heddeman, Baroness Franciska von. Eixtravagance of women's 
 
 war clothes. Forum 59:403-10 Ap '18. 
 Lessening your denominator. Scrib M 55:533-4 Ap '14. 
 Post, Emily. Cost of women's clothes. Everybody's 22:754-64 
 
 Je '10. 
 
 Among women of high incomes. 
 *Tarbell, I. M. Extravagance in dress. L H J 30:26 My '13. 
 
 *Withers, Hartley. Poverty and waste. London, John Murray, 
 1917. 
 
 A lucid exposition of how the consumer can reduce poverty among: 
 the workers by spending less on luxuries and living a more sensi- 
 ble life in accordance with standards based on real wants instead 
 of mimicry of the extravagance of others. 
 
 SHOPPING HABITS 
 
 Bennett-Thompson. Woman who pays the highest price. Harp 
 W 58:27-8 F 21 '14. 
 
 Busbey, K. G. Home life in America. Macmillan, 1910. $2.00. 
 
 Chap, on shops and shoppers. 
 
 Maxwell, W.- Over-the-counter sales. Colliers 52:19-20 N 15 '13. 
 *Ninety-four housewives tell why they buy. System 28:481-9 N '15. 
 
 Nystrom, P. H. Economics of retailing. Ronald press, 1915 $2.00. 
 
 Chap. 3 on the consumer. 
 
 *Riegel, E. C. Break the "return goods" habit. Housewives M 
 10:12 Jl '17. 
 
 *Savage,, C. Buying that isn't buying. Good H 63:29-33 Jl '16. 
 
 Returned goods evil. 
 *Strunsky, S. Psychology of shopping. Harp 134:426-32 F '17, 
 
 Same cond. Cur Opin 62:346 My '17. 
 
 Wells, Carolyn. In the department store. Cent 82:314-5 Je '11. 
 
 Monolog. 
 *Why women buy. System 28:585-91 D '15. 
 
 24 
 
MODERATION IN STYLE AND FREEDOM IN INDI- 
 VIDUAL CHOICE OF DRESS 
 
 *Advertising effect on style continuation and simplification. Print- 
 ers Ink S 6 '17 p 137-8: abstract in Business Dig S 19 '17 p 1513. 
 Garment manufacturers and Retail clothiers assoc. comply with 
 suggestion of Commercial Economy Board. 
 
 Bok, E. Remedy for the present wave of indecent dressing. 
 Collier's 52:11 Ag 30 '13. 
 
 Cause, style commercialized. Plea for encouragement of Ameri- 
 can industries and economic independence. 
 *Gerould, K. F. Dress and the woman. Atlan 108:617-24 N '11. 
 
 Ideas of a plain country woman. L H J 31:26 Ag '14. 
 An appeal to do something practical regarding dress. 
 *Johnson, H. L. Women and clothes; what the clubs are doing in 
 the matter of standardization. J Home Econ 9:127-36 Mr '17. 
 
 Is a nation's character revealed in its dress? Craftsman 25:622^ 
 5 Mr '14. 
 
 Mason, M. H. Tyranny of fashion in war time. 19th Cent 81: 
 
 671-8 Mr '17; same Liv age 293:73-9 Ap 14 '14. 
 *Putnam, N. W. Fashion and feminism. Forum 52:580-4 O '14. 
 
 Real cost of dressing etc. Atlan 115:138-42 Ja '15. 
 
 Slaves of this century. Craftsman 26:120-1 Ap '14. 
 
 Standardized clothes are coming. Lit Dig 55:64 D 15 '17. 
 
 SCIENCE AND THE FUNDAMENTAL PRIN- 
 CIPLE OF CLOTHES 
 
 HOW TO KNOW FABRICS 
 
 tAshenhurst, A. R. Practical treatise on weaving and designing 
 of textile fabrics. Ed. 3. Lond. Simpkin Marshall & Co. 
 1879-85. 21s. 
 
 Old text book for manufacturing, but has chapters on design. 
 Jacquard figures and general arrangements of patterns that are 
 valuable for references in advanced study of weave construction. 
 
 Baker, C. G. Seven textile fibers. J Home Econ 8:144-47 My '16. 
 
 Bjorklund, I. Manufactured silk. J Home Econ 9:377-82 Ag '17. 
 tCarter, H. A. Bacteriological retting for ramie, flax, etc. Sci 
 Am S 83:55 Ja 27 '17. 
 
 Cowan, J. L. Story of silk. Sci Am S 69:264-6 Ap 23 '10. 
 tDannerth, Frederic. Methods of textile chemistry. Wiley, 1908. 
 $2.50. 
 
 Laboratory guide far qualitative and quantitative analysis of the 
 chemical composition of textile fibers, yarns and fabrics. Dyestuffs, 
 mordants, and finishing materials are treated as substances en- 
 countered on finished goods. Has directions for making up reagents. 
 
 Dewey, L. H. Pure textiles. J Home Econ 6:222-8 Je '14. 
 
 25 
 
Dodge, C. R. Profits in flax. Tech W Ja '12 p 565-70. 
 
 Co-operation essential for profitable culture. Consumer has better 
 appreciation of fabric if method of cultivation is understood. 
 
 *Pooley, W. H. Textiles. Rev. ed. with experiments. Heath, c 
 1910-14. $1.00. 
 
 Good text book for high schools, study clubs, salespeople and con- 
 sumers. Processes of production and manufacture; substitutes 
 and adulterations; dyeing- and finishing; physical and chemical 
 experiments; names and definitions of principal materials. Gives 
 concise history of textiles and organization of textile industries. 
 Has valuable list of sources of supply, such as standard textile 
 journals, samples, permanent exhibits, lantern slides, chemicals, 
 dyestuffs, etc. 
 From wool to. cloth. N C Col of Ag Ext C 23 S '16. lip. 
 
 tGeorgievics, George von. Chemical technology of textile fibers, 
 Lond. Scott Greenwood, 1902. 10s 6d. 
 
 Treats of chemical aspects of fibers and processes of manufactur- 
 ing, such as washing, bleaching, carbonizing, mordanting, dyeing; 
 printing, dressing and finishing. Written and arranged in a clear 
 and forceful style. 
 
 *Gibbs, C. M. Household textiles. Whitcomb and Barrows, 1912. 
 $1.25. 
 
 For high school classes, consumers and saleswomen. Simply writ- 
 ten, yet comprehensive in scope. Deals with early development of 
 textile arts; classification of fibers; principles of manufacture; 
 bleaching and dyeing; adulteration and buying, and the hygiene of 
 clothing. Its chapters on design and color, arts and crafts move- 
 ment and social problems are elemental in treatment but suffi- 
 cient to establish an appreciation and to stimulate an interest 
 for more advanced study. 
 
 Growing and manufacturing ramie. Textile W 52:2283 Ap 21 '17. 
 tHannan, W. J. Textile fibers of commerce. Lond. Chas. Grif- 
 fin & co., 1902. $3.00. 
 
 "Handbook on the occurrence, distribution, preparation and uses 
 of animal, vegetable and mineral fibers. .. .used in manufacture." 
 Classification differs from that of other authors in so far that 
 it is approached from botanical side and is very detailed in its 
 classification. 
 
 Harmuth, Lewis. Dictionary of textiles. Fairchild pub co., 1915. 
 $5.00. 
 
 For home economics departments, libraries, commercial and in- 
 dustrial establishments. Exhaustive compilation of terms and defi- 
 nitions relating to fibers, fabrics, manufacturing and finishing- 
 processes, chemicals used for textile purposes, etc. Special atten- 
 tion has been given to obsolete fabrics, French, English and 
 German textiles 1 . Supersedes Cole's Dictionary of dry goods o. p. 
 
 *Haven, G. B. Testing blankets for heat transmission. Textile 
 W 52:3307 Je 16 '17. 
 
 tHerzog, Alois. Determination of cotton and linen. Columbia 
 Univ Teachers' Col Tec Ed B 7 N 4 '16. 32p. $.25. 
 
 26 
 
*Mackinnon, J. G. Household chemical tests for textile fabrics. 
 J Home Econ 8:36-7 Ja '16. 
 
 tMatthews, J. M. The textile fibers. Ed. 2. Wiley, c 1904-7. 
 $4.00. 
 
 Comprehensive and authoritative book. Deals with origin, classi- 
 fication, structure, physical properties and chemical composition of 
 all fibers, tog-ether with qualitative, quantitative and microscopic 
 analysis of both fiber and fabric. Its numerous and fine illustra- 
 tions of microscopic studies add much to its usefulness to teach- 
 ers for illustrated lectures. 
 
 Miles, F. C. Fiber flax. U S Ag Farmers' B 669 '15. 19p. 
 
 tMitchell, C. A. & Prideaux, R. M. Fibers used in textiles and 
 allied industries. Van Nostrand, 1910. $3.00. 
 Classification of textile fibers. Each fiber treated as to its physical 
 and chemical properties; numerous and excellent microscopic draw- 
 ing's. 
 
 *Nystrom, P. H. Textiles. Appleton, c 1915. $2.00. 
 
 Textbook for high school, normal and elementary college courses; 
 for consumer and retailer. Deals with production, geography, mar- 
 keting, manufacture and distribution of fibers. Has good chapters 
 on dyeing and printing, construction of weave, with illustrations, 
 finish and care of textiles. Its chapters on physical and chemical 
 tests are sufficient for elementary work. 
 
 Testing of materials. U S Bur Stand C 45:62-3 '13. 
 
 tTesting and properties of textile materials. U S Bur Stand C 
 41. Ed. 2. '15. 
 
 "Thompson,, E. B. Cotton and linen departments. Ronald press, 
 1917. $1.25. 
 
 Highly instructive department store manual for salespeople. Deals 
 with cotton and flax from cultivation to finished goods, including: 
 color and design; dyes and dyeing; mixtures; adulterations; imita- 
 tions and laundering. 
 
 Thorpe, Sir Edward. Dictionary of applied chemistry. 5 vols. 
 
 Rev. and enl. ed. Longmans, 1912. $70.00. 
 *Weld, L. D. H. Shoddy, its manufacture and use. New Eng 
 
 M n s 45:610-6 F '12. 
 *Weller, Marion. Textiles; what every homemaker should know. 
 
 Minn Univ Ag Ext Special B 15 O '17. 20p. 
 
 What makes clothes warm or cool. Lit Dig 46:1222 My 31 '13. 
 
 *Woolman, M. S. & McGowan, E. B. Textiles. Macmillan, 1913. 
 $2.00. 
 
 Most comprehensive treatment of subject. Deals with the begin- 
 nings of textile industry; principles of hand and power machinery 
 and manufacture; physical properties; microscopic and chemical 
 tests. Laundry notes, hygienic, social and economic aspects are of 
 special value. Bibliography and glossary add to its usefulness. 
 
 27 
 
Note: Chapters on textiles and fabrics may be found in the fol- 
 lowing books entered elsewhere: 
 Baldt's- Clothing for women. 
 Fales' Dressmaking. 
 Kinne & Cooley's Shelter and clothing. 
 Walton's The story of textiles. 
 
 DYES AND DYEING 
 
 tAllen, A. H. Commercial organic analysis. Vol 3 Part 1 rev. and 
 ed. by J. M. Matthews. Blackiston, 1900. $5.00'. 
 Tannin, dyes and coloring- matters. For the manufacturer and 
 student. Reactions of many of the dyes are tabulated with formu- 
 las and derivations. Includes good descriptions of natural dye- 
 stuffs and common adulterants. At the end of each section are 
 tables for the recognition of dyes on the fibers. 
 
 tFraps, G. S. Principles of dyeing. Macmillan, 1903 $1.60. 
 
 Book aims to be "a systematic presentation of the principles under- 
 lying- the art of dyeing 1 ," and includes a large number of labora- 
 tory experiments. To be used as a guide for the student in ob- 
 taining a general survey of the field and therefore does not pretend 
 to be a manual of dyeing for the production of particular colors. 
 
 Hopkins, A. A. ed. Scientific American cyclopedia of formulas. 
 Munn, c 1910. $5.00. 
 Chapter 9, Dyeing formulas. 
 
 ^Matthews, J. M. Laboratory manual of dyeing and textile chem- 
 istry. Wiley, 1909. $3.50. 
 
 Guide for laboratory instruction to be used in connection with 
 more general works. Contains properties of fibers and application 
 of dyes; tests and methods for analyzing fabrics and coloring 
 matters. 
 
 *Pellew, C. E. Dyes and dyeing. New ed. enl. McBride, c 1913- 
 18. $2.00. 
 
 Good handbook far amateur dyers and craftsmen. Simple home di- 
 rections for dyeing on a small scale, with many suggestions ais to 
 advantages and limitations of dyes and methods. 
 
 Sadtler, S. S. Chemistry of familiar things. Lippincott, 1915. 
 
 $1.75. 
 Thorp, F. H. Outlines of industrial chemistry. Ed. 2 rev. and 
 
 enl. Macmillan, 1898-1905. $3.75. 
 
 Thorp and Sadtler both have chapters on water, soaps, solvent 
 
 paper and textiles. Good reference for either students or teachers. 
 
 tWahl, Andre. The manufacturer of organic dye stuffs. Lond. 
 Bell, 1914. $1.60. 
 
 Handbook for manufacturer and student on the chemistry of lead- 
 ing- dyes of each class. Contains little on the application of dye- 
 stuffs, but is excellent for textile student as it is well arranged 
 and contains many references to the patents and original sources. 
 
 28 
 
HYGIENE 
 
 *Cavanagh, Francis. Care of the body. Ed 2. Lond. Methuen, 
 1907-08. $2.00. 
 
 Chap. 6 on clothing- and chaps. 3, 7, 8, 9 and 10 on hygiene in- 
 cluded because of their importance in relation to aesthetic re- 
 quirements of efficient dress. 
 
 *Galbraith, A. M. Personal hygiene and physical training for 
 women. Saunders, 1911. $2.00. 
 
 Chaps. 2 and 3 on "the care of the skin and its appendages and 
 dress the fundamental cause of woman's physical deterioration." 
 
 Note: Harrington and Le Basquet; below, could be used if more 
 convenient. 
 
 Harrington, Charles. Manual of practical hygiene. Ed. 4 rev. 
 and enl. Lea and Febiger, c 1911. $4.50. 
 
 LeBasquet, Maurice. Personal hygiene. Chicago, Amer school 
 
 of home economics, 1907. $1.50. 
 
 *Mosher, C. D. Health and the woman movement. Nat'l board 
 Y.W.C.A., 600 Lexington Ave. N. Y., 1916. $.25. 
 Causes of ill health and principles underlying good health clearly 
 defined. Simple exercises given whereby every woman may im- 
 prove if not attain the physical ideal of a sound body. 
 
 Sargent, D. A. Hygiene, dress and dress reform. J Home Econ 
 
 . 2:298-305 Je '10. 
 Note: Chaps on clothing and health may be found in following 
 
 books entered elsewhere: 
 
 Gibbs' Household textiles. 
 
 Kinne and Cooley's Shelter and clothing. 
 
 Woolman and McGowan's Textiles. 
 
 ECONOMY IN SELECTION 
 Clothing budget 
 
 Andrew, B. R. A survey of your household finances. Columbia 
 Univ Teachers Col Tec Ed B 26 '14. 15p. $.10. 
 Sec. III., Suggestions for classifying one's personal clothing ex- 
 penditures in order to make comparisons with certain standard 
 budgets. 
 
 Ashlock-, J. L. Cost of women's clothes. J Home Econ 9:499- 
 502 N '17. 
 
 Baker, C. G. Clothes and the income. J Home Econ Jl '16 p373-6. 
 
 Brookman, T. A. Family expense account. Heath, c 1904. $.60. 
 Textbook for high schools. Although clothing budget is not dis- 
 cussed, the concise and clear form of keeping accounts is suggest- 
 ive for class or individual needs. Emphasizes value of keeping 
 personal and family accounts. ' 
 
 Chase, S. War budget for the household. Ind 91:169-70 Ag 4 '17. 
 
 Clothing budgets. } Home Econ 8:376-8 Jl '16. 
 
 29 - 
 
*East, A. M. Family budget chart. L H J Ja '16. 
 
 Laws which govern expenditures and percents in incomes from 
 $60 to $200 per month. 
 
 Johnson, H. L. Living on the budget plan. Ind 81:459-61 Mr 
 29 '15. 
 
 Johnson, H. L. How to enjoy life on the budget plan. Harp B 
 N-D '12 & Ja-Mr '13. 
 
 Richards, E. H. Cost of living. Rev. ed. by J. F. Norton. Wiley, 
 
 1899-1917. $1.00. 
 
 *Streightoff, F. H. Standard of living among industrial people 
 of America. Houghton Mifflin, c 1911. $1.00. 
 Summarizes chief investigations which have been made in clothing- 
 expenditures among groups of different standards of living and 
 considers the necessary minimum. 
 
 Wharton, E. H. How to make a budget. Delin 91:23 Jl '17. 
 
 Budgets from $500 to $2,000. 
 Note: Chapters on budget may be found in the following books 
 
 entered elsewhere: 
 
 Baldt's Clothing for women. 
 
 Kinne & Cooley's Shelter and. clothing. 
 
 Woolman & McGowan's Textiles. 
 
 Points in buying 
 Baker, C. G. Discrimination in buying. J Home Econ 8:251-5 
 
 My '16. 
 
 Baker, C. G. Novelty versus quality. J Home Econ 8:191-5 Ap '16. 
 Economy in leather. J Home Econ 9:336-7 Jl '17. 
 Gibbs, C. M. Some points in choosing textiles. Ill Univ Dept 
 
 of H S B vol 10 No 13 N 25 '12. 20p. 
 Household conservation textiles. Iowa Sta Col Ext Emergency 
 
 Leaf 5 Ap '17. 4p. 
 
 How can I make my clothes last longer? Neb Univ Ag Ext Emer- 
 gency B 22 S 24 '17. 4p typed. 
 *Radnor-Lewis,, C. T. How to buy blankets and towels. Good 
 
 H 52:526-9 Ap 11. 
 Radnor-Lewis, C. T. How to select linen. Good H 52:321-24 
 
 Mr '11. 
 Radnor-Lewis, C. T. How to buy hosiery. Good H 54:412-7 
 
 Mr '12. 
 Radnor-Lewis, C. T. How to buy textiles. Nat Food Mag p 72-6 
 
 S '17. 
 Rolfe, L. What we shall wear this year and next. J Home Econ 
 
 10:125-9 Mr '18. 
 Salisbury, E. C. Conservation of clothing. U S Sta Rel Serv W 
 
 S 111-12 N 6 '17. 9p typed. 
 
Salisbury, E. C. Conservation of clothing extracts from circu- 
 lar. Neb Univ Ag Ext Textiles C 5. 4p typed. 
 
 Titsworth, B. E. Hints on choosing textiles. Cornell Reading 
 Course Household Textile Ser 1 Ag 1 '13. 9p. 
 
 Toombs, M. R. Charm of a limited wardrobe. Housewives M 
 My '18 p 11. 
 
 Woolman, M. S. Hints on clothing. Columbia Univ Teachers' 
 Col Tec Ed B 4 '17. 7p. $.10. 
 ART 
 
 Audsley, C. A. Color harmony in dress. McBride Nast, 1912. $.75. 
 "Should interest every woman -who gives intelligent thought to 
 problems of dress. Laws of harmonious color discussed in simple 
 form. Chapter on color in dress presents extensive lists of colors 
 for types and gives the laws of their choice." 
 
 *Bolmar, Lydia & McNutt, Kathleen. Art in dress. Peoria, HI. 
 Normal Arts press '17. $.50. 
 
 Pamphlet giving a concise treatment of the basic principles of 
 good color and line as applied to dress, with illustrative drawings. 
 Particularly useful to the teacher. 
 
 *DeGarmo, Charles. Aesthetic education. Syracuse, N.Y. C. 
 D. Bardween, 1913. $1.00. 
 
 Whole book very much worth while for its broad view point. 
 Special selections: Fashion vs. Art. Decoration and Imitations. 
 
 *Ellsworth, E. P. Textiles and costume design. Jaul Elder, 1917. 
 $1.00. 
 
 Takes up briefly the history of costume;, principles of line and 
 drapery; silhouette of stout and slender figure; use of color for cer- 
 tain types; accessories. Chief value of this little book lies in its 
 fine and brief organization of a complex subject, its correlation 
 with other arts and its suggested outlines for study. 
 
 *Ellsworth,, E. P. Textiles and costume design. Paul Elder, 1917. 
 $1.00. 
 
 Three essays on Fitness, Beauty, and Ethics. A little book which 
 every woman should read. 
 
 Gould, G. M. Fun of it. W H C 44:56 Je '17. 
 Gould, G. M. Fashionable figure and how she gets it. McClure's 
 
 46:32-3 Mr '16. 
 
 Hessler, Mrs. J. C. Better dress standards. J Home Econ 4: 
 469-72 D '12. 
 
 *Izor, E. P. Costume design and home planning. Atkinson, Mint- 
 zer and co., 1916. $1.00. 
 
 Excellent student reference for laboratory classes which no teach- 
 er of elementary work should be without. Of equal importance to 
 the woman who plans her own costume. 
 What colors you should wear. Housewives M S '16 p 16. 
 
 *Whitney, B. A. What to wear. Good Health pub co., 1916. $2.00. 
 A sound solution of a perplexing problem. Fundamental princi- 
 ples of dress discussed in an interesting style. 
 
 31 
 
Winterburn, F. H. Principles of correct dress. Harper & bros., 
 
 c 1914. $1.00. 
 
 Written in an interesting, conversational style. Principles are 
 
 not set forth as clearly and concisely as they are in Izor's book. 
 Note: Chapters on artistic dress may be found in following books 
 
 entered elsewhere: 
 
 Baldt's Clothing for women. 
 
 Gibb's Household textiles. 
 
 Kinne & Cooley's Shelter and clothing. 
 
 Talbot's Dress design (preface). 
 
 ETHICS 
 Bliss, S. H. Significance of clothes. Am J Psychol 27:217-26 
 
 Ap '16. 
 
 Houseman, L. Petticoat government. Contemp 104:663-72 N '13. 
 McCabe, F. R. Modesty in women's clothes. Harp W 58:10-2 
 
 Ag 30 '13. 
 Rice, Bertha. The business woman and the powder puff. Am M 
 
 Ja 30, '18 p 37: abstract in Business Dig Ja 30 '18 p 144. 
 
 Psychological effect of clothes on a business woman's career. 
 *Tarbell, I. M. Great problem of clothes. L H J 30:26 Ap '13. 
 *Tarbell, I. M. Woman and her raiment. Am M 74:468-75 Ag '12. 
 Thomas, W. I. Sex and society. Univ of Chicago press, 1907. 
 
 $1.50. 
 
 Chap, on Psychology of modesty and clothing. 
 Note: Other chapters on ethics may be found in the following 
 
 books listed elsewhere: 
 
 Coolidge's Why women are so. 
 
 Ellsworth's Textile and costume design, (preface). 
 
 Farnsworth's Art and ethics in dress. 
 
 Woolman and McGowan's Textiles. 
 
 TECHNIQUE OF GARMENT MAKING 
 
 HISTORY OF COSTUME 
 
 Earle, A. M. Two centuries of costume in America. 1620-1820. 
 New ed. Macmillan, 1910. $2.50. 
 
 McClellan, M. C. Historic dress in America, 1607-1870. 2 vols. 
 Jacobs, 1904-10. Vol. 1, $10.00. Vol. 2, $6.00. 
 Volumes listed above are given for the purpose of serving as an 
 historic background and guide in the patriotic problem of creat- 
 ing and developing American styles of a characteristic note. They 
 give an appreciation 'and many charming suggestions well worth 
 emulating or adapting to modern dress. 
 
 *Hughes, Talbot. Dress design. Lond. John Hogg, 1913. $3.00. 
 Presented in the form of history, yet is also intended _to be a book 
 of suggestions. Rich in illustrations of costume from the 10th to 
 
 32 
 
19th century with emphasis placed on character of decorations and 
 
 trimming-s of each century. Has patterns to scale. 
 Northend, M. H. Early American costumes. Amer Homes and 
 
 Gardens Mr '15 p 95-9. 
 Planche, J. R. Cyclopedia of costume and dictionary of dress. 2 vol. 
 
 Lond. Chatto & Windus, 1876. $50.00. 
 
 Ranks second to Racinet in history of costume. Out of print. 
 Racinet, A. C. A. Le costume historique. Paris. Firmin-Didot 
 
 et Cie. 6 vol. 1888. $250.00. (price varies.) 
 
 Great monumental history of costume. Out of print. 
 Rackle, M. G. Costume design for dressmaking students. Ind 
 
 Arts M 5:290-5 Jl '16. 
 
 SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 
 Alteration of patterns. Neb Univ Ag Ext Textiles C 7, 2p.. typed. 
 
 *Baldt, L. I. Clothing for women. Lippincott, 1916. $2.00. 
 
 Comprehensive text dealing with selection, design and construc- 
 tion. Subject is approached from economic and scientific view 
 points beginning- with the budget, its apportionments, and im- 
 portance of correct clothing; facts that consumers should know 
 about fibers, fabrics, and adulterations. Principles of clothing de- 
 sign and color are aptly set forth and well illustrated. Has 
 chapters on pattern making, alteration and simple problems and in 
 design construction of garment making. List of equipment and 
 tools. Bibliography. 
 
 *Coates, L. T. American dressmaking step by step. Pictorial 
 review co., 1917. $1.25. 
 
 Excellent guide for the inexperienced. Well organized manual of 
 garment construction; illustrations numerous and clear; directions 
 explicit. Contents lists chapters on sewing and dressmaking ac- 
 cessories; preparation of materials; measurements; patterns and 
 alterations, finishings, darning and patching; cutting; fastenings 
 and plain and ornamental stitches; construction; maternity, in- 
 fants' and children's garments; tailoring. 
 
 Dressmaker, The. Ed. 2, rev. & enl. Butterick pub co., c 1911-16. 
 $.50. 
 
 Good manual of constructive processes in garment making and 
 tailoring for beginners in sewing, and students. Has clear illus- 
 trations and definite directions for the making of practical and 
 ornamental stitches; buttonholes; darning and mending; making 
 and finishing undergarments; infants' and children's clothing; 
 sailor and naval suits. Also includes a list of efficient equipment 
 for dressmaking and instructions for cutting, sponging, and mak- 
 ing various types of dresses and waists; section devoted to tailor- 
 ed finishes; remodeling and care of clothes. 
 
 *Day, L. F. & Buckle, Mary, Art in needlework. Ed 3. rev. and 
 enl. Scribner's, 1908. $2.00. 
 
 Included because certain types of hand decoration are the most 
 economical form of trimming. Gives the different types of deco- 
 rative work from directions and diagrams for all fundamental 
 
 33 
 
stitches and their applications. Value of illustrations are greatly 
 enhanced by showing the right and wrong side of samplers. 
 
 *Fales, Jane. Dressmaking. Scribner's, 1917. $1.50. 
 
 Excellent text or reference for normals" and colleges. History of 
 costume logically developed and profusely illustrated. Broad field 
 of the manufacture and economics of textiles is well organized 
 and brief; facts which are fundamental to the wise selection and 
 economic expenditure of budget are emphasized. Chemical tests 
 not included. Section on construction deals with drafting and 
 pattern making; commercial patterns; pattern designing and drap- 
 ing; waists, skirts and dresses; finishing and embroidery. Bibli- 
 ography. 
 
 tFuller, M. E. Constructive sewing. Indianapolis, Industrial book 
 & equipment co. 4 vols. 1916-17. $.60 each. 
 Valuable and suggestive series of four pamphlets for teachers in 
 grammar and high schools. Deals with the fundamentals of sewing 
 in its logical progression from the stitches in their application on 
 simple articles and concluding with the principles of costume de- 
 sign, millinery and their applications. Problems of bed and table 
 linen are included. Simple textile study parallels the constructive 
 problems at a time when they will be most interesting to the 
 pupil. Many illustrations. 
 
 Kinne, Helen & Cooley, A. M. Clothing and health. Macmillan, 
 1917. $.65. 
 
 Treatment of subject is elementary and lucid. Chapters are sub- 
 divided into lessons so that an inexperienced teacher is guided in 
 method and sequence of presentation. Correlates closely the study 
 of the textile fibers with the hygiene of clothing and their preser- 
 vation and care. The budget, technique of sewing, color combina- 
 tions and attractiveness in dress are presented in such a manner 
 as to hold and stimulate the interest of the young student. 
 
 Kinne, Helen & Cooley, A. M. Shelter and clothing. Macmillan, 
 1913. $1.10. 
 
 Fills a long felt need as a text for high schools. Part devoted 
 to clothing deals with textile, materials, methods of manu- 
 facture and adulteration, with simple physical and chemical tests 
 for the identification of the fibers. Section on technique presents 
 problems of undergarments; selection of materials and decorations; 
 pattern alteration and drafting; cutting and making; concluding 
 with more advanced problems of costume design based on art 
 principles; dress construction; hygiene of clothing, economics of 
 dress; care and repair of clothing. 
 
 *Newcomb, M. J. Dressmaking at home. Penn Sta Col Ext C 
 70 N '17. 24p. 
 
 *Planning the costume. Iowa Sta Col Ext H E R 9 Je '16. 20p. 
 
 *Robinson,, M. E. Principles of sewing. Mo Univ Ag Ext C 41 '17. 
 
 28p. 
 
 Tobey, E. S. Handmade flowers: how to make them. Columbia 
 Univ Teachers' Col, c 1914. $.50. 
 
 Pamphlet included because of value of such trimmings in dress 
 construction. 
 
 34 
 
(l/PA-AA 
 
 tWoolman, M. S. A sewing course for teachers. Ed 5 rev. Wash- 
 ington. T. A. Fernald, c 1893-1908. $1.50. Interleaved 
 copy, $3.50. 
 
 "Comprises directions for making- the various stitches and instruc- 
 tions in methods of teaching." Contains chapters on "notes for 
 teachers" and an outline on "suggestive sewing for the elementary 
 school." 
 
 Remodeling 
 
 ^Manning, Hazel. New clothes at small cost. Wis Univ Ag Ext 
 C 91 '17. 8p. 
 
 Children's Clothing 
 
 *Children's clothing. Penn Sta Col Ext C 48 My '16. 20p. 
 Clothes for the growing child. US Children's Bur '17. Ip. typed. 
 Perry, C. Mistakes we make in dressing our children. L H J 28: 
 37 Ja 15 '11. 
 
 CLEANING AND PRESERVATION OF 
 CLOTHING 
 
 LAUNDRY 
 
 Balderston, L. R. Two wash-day factors. L H J 33:54 Ap '16. 
 
 Soap and blueing. 
 
 *Balderston, L. R. Laundering. Ed. 2. R. L. Balderston, 1224 
 Cherry St., Philadelphia, c 1914. $1.25. 
 
 Best book on the subject. Approached from artistic and scientific 
 view points; treats briefly of fibers in their relation to cleaning; 
 washing and cleansing agents used, directions for washing, iron- 
 ing and folding of typical garments; fumigation and disinfection 
 of clothing; d>ry cleaning. Methods of removing stains presented 
 in concise and clear outline form. Includes equipment and sug- 
 gestive outlines for laundry courses. Bibliography. 
 
 Bancroft, W. D. Washing and cleaning. J Home Econ 8:356-60 
 Jl '16. 
 
 Chambers, M. L. Guide to laundry work. Boston cooking school 
 
 mag co., 1915. $.75. 
 
 Contents similar to "Laundering" by Balderston. Method of pre- 
 sentation entirely different not as full. 
 
 Child, G. B. Just how to do washing. Delin 86:23 Ap '15. 
 
 Child, G. B. Shall clothes be soaked. Delin 87:35 O '15. 
 
 Helps for wash day. N J International Harvester co. '16. 17p. 
 
 Foreword on lack of equipment makes bulletin worth while. 
 Kauffman, T. E. Home laundering. Ohio Sta Univ Ag Ext B 7 
 
 '15. 16p. 
 Marlatt, A. L. Washing made easier. Wis Univ Dept of H E B 
 
 44 '17. 3p. 
 
Marsh, E. L. Laundry work in theory and practice. Longmans, 
 
 1914. $.75. 
 
 English publication written primarily for the trade. Would be 
 ve>ry suggestive to teachers who have not had much practical ex- 
 perience. Technique of ironing and folding is given in detail and 
 well illustrated; includes types of equipment. 
 
 MacLeod, S. J. Housekeeper's handbook of cleaning. Harper, 
 
 1915. $1.00. 
 
 Half of book devoted to laundry, rest house cleaning. 
 Owen, F. A. Dyeing and cleaning of textile fabrics. Wiley, 
 1909. $2.00. 
 
 Value is in its collection of brief practical dyeing recipes for use 
 in the home, intermingled with directions for washing or cleaning 
 and restoring various fabrics and materials. Includes also miscel- 
 laneous formulas for making soaps, cleaning compounds, bleaches, 
 etc. List of dyestuffs, etc. in apx. is obsolete. 
 
 *Rose, Flora. The laundry. Cornell Reading Course. Farm 
 
 House Series 3 '12. 42p. 
 
 Wadhams, C. R. Simple directions for the laundress. Longmans, 
 1917. $.50. 
 
 Written for the laundress; would also be helpful to inexperienced 
 housekeeper. Directions given with clearness, briefness and min- 
 uteness as to requirements for equipment and methods of laun- 
 dering. 
 
 Note: Chapter XIV. The Laundry in Woolman & McGowan's Tex- 
 tiles. 
 
 Chemistry 
 
 *Elledge, H. G. Conservation of garments in laundering. Sci Am. 
 S 84:30-1 Jl 14 '17. 
 
 Responsibility irests with manufacturer, user and launderer. 
 *Ryan, J. H. Advantages of softened water in laundry work. J 
 
 Ind & Eng Chem 9:397-8 Ap '17. 
 
 *Shilstone, H. M. Proper use of the chemicals in the laundry. Sci 
 Am S 82:203 S 23 '16: abstract from National Laundry Journal. 
 
 Soaps 
 *Balderston, L. R. Facing the facts on wash day. Good H 63: 
 
 90-1 N '16. 
 
 tCharacteristics of textile starches. Textile W D 30 '16 p 411. 
 *Nichols, Janet. The making of soap. Housewives M 10:27 Jl '17. 
 Specifications for and methods of testing soap. U S Bur Stand C 
 62 '16. 21p. 
 
 Equipment 
 Balderston, L. R. Taking the work out of washing. Good H 
 
 63:65 D '16. 
 Ridlon, H. The home laundry. Good H '11 p 542-44. 
 
Note: Some valuable information on the chemistry of laundering 
 may be found under Working conditions in laundries. 
 
 Removal of Stains 
 *Balderston, L. R. Home remedies for spots. Good H 63:101- 
 
 2 S '16. 
 
 *Lang, H. L. & Whittelsey, A. H. Removal of stains from cloth- 
 ing and other textiles. U S Ag Farmers' B 861 S '17. 35p. 
 Musgrave, A. F. Removal of stains in the laundry. Sci Am S 
 84:71 Ag 4 '17: abstract from National Laundry Journal. 
 
 DRY CLEANING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 Fire hazards due to static electricity in dry-cleaning establish- 
 ments. Elec R & W Elec'n 70:490 Mr 24 '17. 
 Principle applicable to cleaning on a small scale. 
 *Marlatt, C. L. True clothes moths. U S Ag Farmers' B 659 '15. 
 
 8p. 
 
 *Yorke, S. How to pack away your winter clothes. L H J 28:30 
 My 1 '11. 
 
 THE TEXTILE SITUATION 
 
 Note: The war has taken millions of workers from the fields and 
 mills of the world's textile industries. The major part of the 
 available textile production is required for ammunition and 
 the machinery of war, clothing and bedding for the army 
 and navy and supplies for the Red Cross. A very small per- 
 cent, therefore, of the normal supply is left for civilian needs. 
 Conservation of textiles has become a vital necessity. 
 The references listed below will serve as a connecting link 
 and guide in the study of one of the most important prob- 
 lems of the day. 
 
 Carroll, V. E. Textile industry and relation to the war. Textile 
 W 52:2272 Ap 21 '17. 
 
 Clothing and food control in the central empires. Cur Hist M 
 N Y Times D 7 '17 ptl:448-51. 
 
 Germany's business after the war. Business Dig N 7 '17 p 265: 
 abstract from J of Commerce O 8 '17; Printers Ink O 4 '17 
 p 37 and N 18 '17 p 37. 
 
 Hunter, K. A. Requirements of airplane fabrics. Textile W 53: 
 1043 S 15 '17. 
 
 Need of cooperation with textile schools. Textile W 52:615-19 
 Ja 13 '17. 
 
 Our shortage in wool and the prospect of having to wear old clothes 
 or shoddy. Lit Dig 56:102 Mr 23 '18. 
 
 Schmidt, L. W. Economic changes wrought by the war. Sci Am 
 116:178 F 17 '17. 
 
 37 
 
Refers very briefly to textiles, but gives an economic aspect of the 
 
 present. 
 Symposium of tariff and textile conditions. Textile W 52:614 Ja 
 
 13 '17. 
 War convention helps to solve the new problems of retail stores. 
 
 Nat Retail dry goods assoc. Report F 6-8 '18. 86p. 
 Washington State Bur of Statistics & Immigration. Manufactur- 
 ing in the state of Washington. '18. 
 
 Article by G. C. Denny on Possibilities for textile manufacturing 1 . 
 
 P128-39. 
 Wanted: a clothes administration. Lit. Dig 55:17 D 22 '17. 
 
 COTTON 
 
 Cotton: the agricultural situation for 1918. U S Ag C 88 F 18 '18. 
 
 Industrial uses of cotton bid fair to surpass its uses for household 
 fabrics and clothing. Abstract in Business Dig Ja-Mr '17 
 p 115. 
 
 More, J. L. Cotton a weapon of war. Textile W 53:1281 S 29 '17. 
 
 Pratt, E. E. Cotton textiles; international trade and merchandis- 
 ing methods. U S Bur For & Dom Com Misc Series 58. 19p. 
 '17.' Excerpts Textile W 52:1591 Mr 3 '17. 
 
 DYESTUFFS 
 
 American made dyestuffs winning world markets. Off B O 25 '17 p5. 
 
 Very brief and to the point. 
 
 Dye merger and its relation to the industry. Textile W 52:3487-8 
 Je 30 '17. 
 
 *Dyestuff situation in the textile industries. U S Tariff commission, 
 Tariff information series 2 '18. 20p. 
 
 On the tariff and its relation to various textile industries. 
 Dyestuff situation in the United States. N '15 U S For & Dom 
 Com Bur '16. 
 
 *Gordon, J. W. Future of the aniline-dye scheme: a fore- thought. 
 19th Cent 78:194-203 Jl '15. 
 
 Of historical nature dealing- -with patent law in its relation to 
 aniline-dyes. Excellent background study for present dye situa- 
 tion. 
 
 Harold, J. F. X. American dyes in retrospect and prospect. Tex- 
 tile W 52:707 Ja 13 '17. 
 
 *Hebden, J. C. Progress in American dye-stuff industry. Met & 
 Chem Eng 16:474-5 My 1 '17. 
 
 Development of dyestuff industry will depend upon a tariff -written 
 in favor of industry and not importer. 
 
 *Hendrick, Ellwood. How dyestuffs crisis was met. World W Mr 
 18 p 331-4. 
 
 ""Interdependence of dyestuff, and explosive industries. Textile W 
 52:2242 D 1 '17. 
 
Norton, T. H. Evolution of artificial dyestuffs. Sci A 117:40 
 
 Jl 21 '17. 
 
 Norton, T. H. Dyestuffs for American textile and other indus- 
 tries. U S Dept of Commerce Spec Agents Series 96 '15. lOp. 
 
 Report on dyestuff and textile situation previous to our entrance 
 
 into the war. 
 Norton, T. H. Dyestuff situation in the U. S. US Bur of For 
 
 & Dom Com Spec Agents Series 111 '15. 15p. 
 
 Status of artificial dye industry in Ag. 1914; its present and future 
 
 development. 
 Open letter to the House of Representatives of the Sixty-fourth 
 
 Congress. J Ind & Eng Chem 9:4-5 Ja '17. 
 
 In regard to dyestuff bill. Draft of resolution protesting against 
 
 the excepting- clause of dyestuff legislation. 
 *Stone, I. F. American dyestuff industry. Met & Chem Eng 17: 
 
 226-7 S 15 '17. 
 Slosson, E. E. What comes from coal tar. Ind N 10 '17 p 291. 
 
 LINEN 
 
 Can we develop a larger linen industry? Textile W 52:827-8 Ja 
 
 13 '17. 
 Clark, W. C. G. Development of an .American linen industry. 
 
 U S Bur of For & Dom Com Spec agents series 122 '16. 
 
 Prospect for future development. 
 Miles, F. C. Fiber flax. U S Ag Farmers' B 669 '15. 19p. 
 
 Valuable statistics and discussion of present flax situation. 
 
 LEATHER 
 A chance for a good will campaign. Printers Ink O '17 p 116-7: 
 
 abstract in Business Dig N 7 '17 p 273. 
 
 Government contract's effect on substitutes for civilian shoes. 
 Threatened slump in shoe trade may bring better merchandising. 
 
 Printers Ink D 20 '17 p 92: abstract in Business Dig Ja 23 
 
 '18 p 131. 
 
 SILK 
 Importance of Japanese silk trade. Second Japanese Supp. N Y 
 
 Eve Post Je 30 '17 p 28: abstract in Business Dig Ag 1 '17 
 
 p 1091. 
 The Jobbers association of dress fabric buyers met July 17 in New 
 
 York and discussed effect of war on dry goods. Abstract in 
 
 Business Dig Jl 25 '17 p 993. 
 
 Statistics on rise in cost of silk. 
 Silk association of America. 46th Annual report. My 27 '18. 117p. 
 
 SUBSTITUTES 
 
 Kertesz, A. Paper yarn textiles and dyeing and impregnating 
 them. Sci Am S 84:19 Jl 14 '17. 
 
Matthews, J. M. The use of paper yarns for clothing. Address 
 at special meeting of the Chemists Club D 9 '17. Abstract in 
 Business Dig D 19 '17 p 518. 
 
 Successful use of nettle fibers in cloth making. Sci Am S 116:110 
 Ja 27 '17. 
 
 Typha plant a substitute for cotton. Sci Am S 83:52 Ja 27 '17. 
 
 WOOL 
 
 Conference of representative woolen and worsted manufacturers 
 meets with Commercial Economy Board of the Council of Nat'l 
 Defense, for the purpose of considering possibilities of war 
 economy in wool, May 27 '17. Abstract in Business Dig Ap- 
 Je '17 p 503. 
 
 Hart, S. H. World wool demands. Amer Sheep Breeder N '17 
 p 647-51. 
 
 How war has shifted the world's wool trade. American Ja '17 p 9- 
 13: abstract in Business Dig Ap-Je '17 p 504. 
 
 "Keep sheep" movement. Textile W 52:623 Je 13 '17. 
 
 New restrictions governing imports and exports of. wool. C & F 
 Chron D 22 '17 p 2416: abstract in Business Dig Ja 2 '18 p 39. 
 
 Sheep and wool industry in the United States. U S Chamber of 
 
 Commerce Spec B Ap 26 '18. 8p. 
 
 *Washington on the trail of "All wool" advertising. Printers Ink 
 S 20 '17 p 12: abstract in Business Dig O 3 '17 p 56. 
 
 SUGGESTIVE STUDY OUTLINES 
 
 DEPARTMENT STORES 
 Norton, H. R. Department-store education. U S Bur of Ed B 
 
 9 '17. 70p. 
 
 SCHOOLS 
 Balderston, L. R. Course of instruction in laundry management. 
 
 J Home Econ 2:539-44 N '10. 
 Balderston, L. R. Laundry: equipment, plans and formulas. J 
 
 Home Econ 6:321-8 O '14. 
 Buchanan, F. Study of textiles as a part of the related subject 
 
 matter in courses of sewing. J Home Econ 6:135-8 Ap '14. 
 Craig, A. H. Textile experimentation. J Home Econ 3:229-35 
 
 Je '11. 
 Crawford, L. R. Art, the foundation of domestic art. J Home 
 
 Econ 3:246 Je '11. 
 Home economics teaching under the present economic conditions. 
 
 U S Bur of Ed C S 5 '17. lip. 
 Laundering; why we have a college course in this subject. Teach 
 
 Col Rec 16:92-5 Ja '15. 
 
 40 
 
Marlatt, A. L. Study of the subject of textiles as it is presented 
 in higher institutions. J Home Econ 3:217-21 Je '11. 
 
 McKeewn, M. J. & L. R. Balderston. Analysis of blues. J Home 
 Econ 3:251-2 Je '11. 
 
 Sewing equipment. Neb Univ Ag Ext Textiles C 6. 2p. typed. 
 
 Sill, R. P. Outline of a course in elementary clothing and hand- 
 work. Columbia Univ Teachers Col Tec Ed B 21 '15. 12p. 
 
 Syllabus of Home Economics. Am Home Econ Assoc '13. 66p. 
 
 WOMEN'S CLUBS 
 
 The problem of dress. Gen Fed Women's Clubs '16-'17. 18p. 
 
 Women's club outlines. Neb Univ Ag Ext H E Ser 2 C 5. 5p. typed. 
 
 Women's club outlines. Neb Univ Ag Ext Ser 2 C 5. lOp. typed. 
 
 One of the best methods of keeping informed as to progress and 
 conditions in and effecting the textile industries is through 
 the national associations and technical journals. Associations 
 listed below distribute, free of charge, reports and bulletins, 
 the contents of which give the teacher a basis for more intel- 
 ligent interpretation of complex textile problems and situa- 
 tions: 
 
 American Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers, 45 
 East 17th Street, New York City. 
 
 National Retail Dry Goods Association, 34 West 42nd Street, New 
 York City. 
 
 The Silk Association of America, 354 Fourth Ave.., New York City. 
 Textile World Journal. $3.00 per year. Bragdon, Lord and Nagle 
 Co., Inc., 46i Eighth Avenue, New York City. 
 A weekly journal of news, market reports and technical in- 
 formation. 
 
 *Textile American. Published monthly. $1.00 per year. Textile 
 American Publishing Co., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers. Quar- 
 terly. $2.00 per year. 50 State Street, Boston. 
 
 KEY TO MAGAZINES, BULLETINS AND 
 PAMPHLETS, WITH ADDRESSES 
 
 Note: Stars (*) indicate suggestions for first selection by public 
 
 libraries; (t) indicates books technical. 
 Note: Abbreviations for months: Ja January; F February; Mr 
 
 March; Ap April; My May; Je June; Jl July; Ag August; 
 
 S September; O October; N November; D December. 
 Note: B Bulletin; p page; C Circular; Leaf Leaflet; Exp Sta 
 
 Experiment Station; Ext Extension Department; Col College. 
 Note: Bulletins and pamphlets are usually free, unless price is 
 
 given. U. S. departments and State Agricultural extension 
 
 departments have the franking privilege, but it might be safe 
 
 41 
 
to enclose postage in sending to other sources. For all U. S. 
 publications, address Issuing department, Washington, D. C., 
 or Supt. of documents, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Advertising and Selling 381 Fourth Ave., New York. $2. 
 
 Am City American City. Civic Press, 87 Nassau St., New York. $3. 
 
 Am Econ R American Economic Review. American Economic As- 
 sociation, Ithaca, N. Y. $5. 
 
 Amer Homes & Gardens Amerian Homes and Gardens. Munn & Co., 
 233 Broadway, New York. $3. 
 
 Am Home Econ Assoc American Home Economics Association, 1211 
 Cathedral St., Baltimore, Md. 
 
 Amer Industries American Industries, 30 Church St., New York. $1. 
 
 Am J Psycho! American Journal of Psychology. Clark Univ., Wor- 
 cester, Mass. $5. 
 
 Am M American Magazine, 381 Fourth Ave., New York. $1.50. 
 
 Am Sheep Breeder American Sheep Breeder Co., 9 S Clinton St., 
 Chicago. $1.25. 
 
 Ann Am Acad Annals of the American Academy of Political and 
 Social Science, 36th and Woodland Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. $6. 
 
 Art World 2 West 45th St., New York. $4. 
 
 Atlan Atlantic Monthly, 3 Park St., Boston, Mass. $4. 
 
 Bookman Dodd, Mead & Co.,, 4th Ave. and 30th St. New York. $3. 
 
 Business Dig Business Digest. Cumulative Digest Corp.,241 W 37th 
 St., New York. $10. 
 
 Canada Dept of Agriculture Ottawa, Canada. 
 
 Cent Century Co., 353 4th Ave., New York. $4. 
 
 C & F Chron Commercial & Financial Chronicle, W. Pine and De- 
 peyster Sts., New York. $10. 
 
 Chaut Chautauquan. Chautauquan Press, Chautauqua, N. Y. 
 
 Chem Abs Chemical Abstracts. Amer. Chemical Soc, r Easton, Pa. $6. 
 
 Colliers P. F. Collier & Son, 416 W. 13th St., New York. $2.50. 
 
 Columbia Univ Teachers' Col Teachers' College, Columbia Univers- 
 ity, 525 W. 120 St., New York City. 
 
 Contemp Contemporary Review. Leonard Scott Pub. Co., 249 W. 
 13th St., New York. $5.00. 
 
 Cornell Reading Course Cornell University, College of Agriculture, 
 Ithaca, N. Y. 
 
 Cosmopolitan International Magazine Co., 119 W. 40th St., New 
 York. $1.50. 
 
 Craftsman Craftsman Pub Co., 6 E. 39th St., New York. $3. 
 
 Cur Hist M N Y Times Current History Magazine, New York Times, 
 Times Square, New York. $3. 
 
 Cur Opin Current Opinion. Current Literature Co.,, 63 W. 36th St., 
 New York. $3. 
 
 Delin Delineator. Butterick Pub. Co., Butterick Bldg., Spring and 
 Macdougal Sts., New York. $1.50. 
 
 Econ W Economic World, W. 80 Wall St., New York City. $4. 
 
 Elec R & W Elec'n Electric Railway and Western Electrician. Elec- 
 trical Review Pub. Co., 608 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, 111. $3. 
 
 Forum Forum Publishing Co., 286 5th Ave., New York. $2.50. 
 
 Gen Fed Women's Clubs General Federation of Women's Clubs. 
 Home Economics Department, Mrs. J. G. Gawler, Chairman, 
 1401 W. Chestnut St., Yakima, Wash. 
 
 Good H Good Housekeeping Magazine, 119 W. 40th St., New York. 
 $1.50. 
 
 42 
 
Harp Harper's Monthly. Harper & Bros., Franklin Square, New 
 
 York. $4. 
 Harp B Harper's Bazaar. International Magazine Co., 119 W 40th 
 
 St., New York. $3. 
 Harp W Harper's Weekly. Harper's Weekly Corporation, Fourth 
 
 Ave. and 20th St., New York. $5. 
 
 Housewives M Housewives Magazine, 25 W. 45th St., New York. $2. 
 Ind Arts M Industrial Arts Magazine. Bruce Pub. Co., Milwaukee, 
 
 Wis. $1.50. 
 
 Ind Independent, W. 119 40th St., New York. $4. 
 Ill Univ Dept of H S Illinois University, Department of Household 
 
 Science, Urbana, 111. 
 Iowa Sta Col Ext Iowa State College, Extension Department, Ames, 
 
 Iowa. 
 J of Com New York Journal of Commerce, Daily, Boix 1500, New 
 
 York. $12. 
 
 J Home Econ Journal of Home Economics. American Home Eco- 
 nomics Association, 1211 Cathedral St., Baltimore, Md. $2. 
 J Ind & Eng Chem Journal of Industrial and Chemical Engineering. 
 
 American Chemical Society, Easton, Pa. $6. 
 J Pol Econ Journal of Political Economy. University of Chicago 
 
 Press, Chicago, 111. $3. 
 L H J Ladies' Home Journal. Curtis Pub Co., Independence Square. 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa. $1.50. 
 Lit Dig Literary Digest. Funk & Wagnalls Co., 354 4th Ave., New 
 
 York. $3. 
 
 Liv Age Living Age Co., 6 Beacon St., Boston, Mass. $6. 
 Met & Chem Eng Metallurgical and Chemical Engineering. McGraw 
 
 Pub. Co., 239 W 39th St., New York. $3. 
 McClure McClure's Magazine. McClure Pub., 4th Ave and 20th St., 
 
 New York. $1. 
 Minn Univ Ag E<xt College of Agriculture, University of Minnesota, 
 
 University Farm, Extension Department, St. Paul, Minn. 
 Mo Univ Ag Ext College of Agriculture, University of Missouri, Ex- 
 tension Department, Columbia Mo. 
 M Rev Bur Labor Statistics Monthly Review of the U. S. Bureau of 
 
 Labor Statistics. Department of Labor, Washington, D. C. 
 Nation 20 Vesey St., New York. $4. 
 Nat Educ Assn National Education Association. Proceedings and 
 
 Addresses. National Education Assn., 140 Mass. Ave. N. W., 
 
 Washington, D. C. $2. 
 Nat Food Mag National Food Magazine. Pierce Pub Co., 45 W. 
 
 34th St., New York. $1. 
 Nat Retail Dry Good Assoc National Retail Dry Good Association, 
 
 34 W. 42nd St., New York. 
 Neb Univ Ag Ext College of Agriculture, University of Nebraska, 
 
 Extension Department, Lincoln, Neb. 
 New Eng M New England Magazine. New England Magazine Co., 
 
 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. $1.75. 
 N J International Harvester Co New Jersey International Harvester 
 
 Company, Harvester Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 19th Cent 19th Century Magazine. Leonard Scott Pub. Co., 249 W 
 
 13th St., New York. $5. 
 
 Off B Official Bulletin, Committee on Public Information, Washing- 
 ton, D. C. 
 
 * 43 
 
Ohio Sta Univ Ag Ext College of Agriculture, Ohio State Univers- 
 ity, Extension Department, Columbus, Ohio. 
 
 Outlook Outlook Co., 381 Fourth Ave., New York. $4. 
 
 Penn Sta Col Ext Pennsylvania State College, Extension Department, 
 State College Station, Pa. 
 
 Prince Edward Is Dept of Ag Prince Edward Island, Department 
 of Agriculture, Charlottetown, Canada. 
 
 Printers Ink W. 185 Madison Ave., New York. $2. 
 
 Proceed Acad Pol Sci in N Y Proceedings of the Academy of Po- 
 litical Science in New York, Columbia Univ., New York. $5. 
 
 R of Rs Review of Reviews. Review of Reviews Co., 30 Irving 
 Place, New York. $3. 
 
 Salesmanship M. Kresge Bldg., Detroit, Mich. $2. 
 
 Sci Am Scientific American. Munn & Co.., 233 Broadway, (New 
 York. $4. 
 
 Sci Am S Scientific American Supplement. Munn & Co., 233 Broad- 
 way, New York. $5. 
 
 Scrib M Scribner's Magazine. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 597 5th Ave., 
 New York. $4. 
 
 Silk Assoc of America 354 Fourth Ave., New York. 
 
 Smithsonian Institution Washington, D. C. 
 
 Survey Survey Associates, 112 E 19th St.., New York. $3. 
 
 System A. W. Shaw Co., Wabash Ave. and Madison St., Chicago, 
 111. $3. 
 
 Teach Col Rec Teachers' College Record. Columbia University, New 
 York. $1. 
 
 Tech W Technical World, Drexel Ave. & 58th St., Chicago, 111. $1.50. 
 
 Textile W Textile World. Bragdon, Lord & Nagle Co., 461 8th Ave. 
 at 34th St.. r New York. $3. 
 
 U S Ag U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 U S Bur Ed U. S. Bureau of Education. 
 
 U S Bur For & Dom Com U. S. Bureau of Foreign and Domestic 
 Commerce. 
 
 U S Bur of Labor U. S. Department of Labor. 
 
 U S Bur of Labor Statistics Department of Labor. 
 
 U S Bur of Standards U. S. Bureau of Standards, Commerce De- 
 partment. 
 
 U S Chamber of Commerce, Washington, D. C. 
 
 U S Dept of Commerce U. S. Department of Commerce. 
 
 U S Sta Rel Serv U. S. States Relation Service. 
 
 U S Children's Bur U. S. Children's Bureau. 
 
 Vt Univ Ag Ext University of Vermont and Statte Agricultural 
 College, Burlington, Vt. 
 
 Washington State Bur of Statistics and Immigration, Olympia, Wash. 
 
 Wis Univ Ag Ext University of Wisconsin, Extension Department, 
 Madison, Wis. 
 
 Wis Univ Dept H E University of Wisconsin, Department of Home 
 Economics., Madison, Wis. 
 
 'W H C Woman's Home Companion, 381 Fourth Ave., New York. $1.50. 
 
 World Outl World Outlook, 150 5th Ave.,, New York. $1.50. 
 
 World's W World's Work. Doubleday Page & Co., Garden City, 
 N. Y. $3. 
 
 W Va Univ Ag Ext College of Agriculture, West Virginia Univers- 
 ity, Extension Department, Morgantown, W. Va. 
 
 44 
 

 * 
 
 
 >4 (6936s) 
 
PAT. JAN. 21. 
 
 TS 
 
 v/ 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA