TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 C H I N J, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS, OBSERVATIONS, AND COMPARISONS, MADE AND COLLECTED IN 
 THE COURSE OF A SHORT RESIDENCE AT THE IMPERIAL PALACE OF 
 YUEN-MIN-YUEN, AND ON A SUBSEQUENT JOURNEY THROUGH 
 THE COUNTRY FROM 
 
 PEKIN TO CANTON. 
 
 IN IVHICH ir IS ATTEMPTED TO APPRECIATE THE RANK THAT 
 
 THIS EXTRAORDINARY EMPIRE MAT BE CONSIDERED TO 
 
 HOLD IN THE SCALE OF CIVILIZED NATIONS. 
 
 " NON CUIVIS HOMINI CONTINGIT ADIRE CORIHTHVM." 
 It is the lot of few to go to PEKIN. 
 
 By JOHN BARROW, Efq. 
 
 LATE PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE EARL OF MACARTNEY, AND ONE OF HIS SUITE A5 
 AMBASSADOR FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN TO THE EMPEROR OF CHINA. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH SEVERAL ENGRAVIKCS. 
 
 L ND ON: 
 
 Printed by A. Strahan, Printers-Street, 
 
 FOR T. CADELL AND W. DAVIES, IN THE STRAND. 
 
 1804.
 
 107 
 
 TO 
 
 THE EARL OF MACARTNEY, K. B. 
 
 ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'8 MOST HONOURABLE PRIVY COUNCIL. 
 
 (Jfc. Ijfc. i^c. 
 
 THIS VOLUME OF TRAVELS IN CHINA, ^c. 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 
 BY 
 
 HIS MOST FAlTHFUt 
 
 AND OBLIGED RUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 JOHN BARROW, 
 
 A 2 
 
 '^Hr/r2>GG
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 PRELIMINARY MATTER. 
 
 Ititroduclkn. — General View of what Travellers are likely to meet luith in China. 
 
 Mijiahn Notions entertained luith regard to the Britifli Embajfy — correEied by the 
 Reception and Treatment of the fubfequent Dutch Embaffy. — Siippofed Points of 
 Failure in the former, as fated by a French Miffionary from Pekin, refuted— 
 Kien Long's Letter to the King of Holland. — Difference of Treatment experienced 
 b\ the two EmbaJJies explained. — Intrigues of Miffionaries in foreign Countries,'— 
 Pride and Self-hnportance of the Chinefe Court.^LiJl of European Embaffies, and 
 the Time of their Jbode in Pekin. — Conclufwn of Preliminary SubJeB. Page I 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Occurrences and Obfervations in the Navigation of the Yellow 
 Sea, and the Paflage up the Pei-ho, or White River. 
 
 Different Tejimonies that have been given of the Chinefe CharaEler. — Comparifon of 
 China with Europe in the ftxteenth Century. — Motives of the Miffionaries in their 
 Writings.-— Briti/h Embaffy paffes the Streights of Formofa. — Appearance of a 
 
 Ta-fung Chufan I/lands. — hflance of Chinefe Amplification. — Various Chinefe 
 
 Veffels. — Zyfem of their Navigation— their Compafs, probably of Scythian Origin 
 .—foreign Voyages of. — Traces of Chinefe in America — in an Ifland of the 
 Tartarian Sea — in the Perfian Gulph — traded probably as far as Madagafcar.— 
 Commerce of the Tyrians. — Reafons for conjeEluring that the Hottentots may 
 have derived their Origin from China. — Portrait of a Chinefe compared with that 
 
 of
 
 vi CONTENTS. 
 
 cfa Hotliiitot. — Malays of the fame defcent as the Chhufe.— Curious coincidences 
 in the Ciifonis of thcfe and the Sumatrans. — Cingalefe of Chinefe Origin. — One 
 of the Brigs di/pntched to Cliu-fan for Pikis.— Rapid Currents among the 
 Iflands. — Vifit to the Governor. — Dijicullies in procuring Pilots. — Arbitrary Pro- 
 ceeding of the Gj-^'cr/ior. — Pilots puzzled luith our Compafs— Ignorance of— Arrive 
 in the Gulph of Pe-tehe-lee. — Vifit of two Officers from Court, and their Prefent 
 —enter the Pei-ho, and embark in convenient Tachts. — Accommodating ConduB 
 of the tivt Officers. — Pnfufton of Provifions. — Appearance of the Country — of the 
 People. — Tirefs of the Women. — Remarks on their fmall Feet. — Chinefe an un- 
 cleanly and frotuzy People. — Immenfe Croiuds of People and River Craft at 'T\cn- 
 \3\ng.— 'Decent and prepojfefftng Conduci of the Multitude. — Mifical Air fung by 
 the Rowers of the Tachts. — Favourable Traits in the Chinefe CharaFler. — Face 
 and ProduEis of the Country .^Multitudes of People Inhabitants of the Water.— ^ 
 Another Inflmce of arbitrary Power. — Difembark at Tong Tchoo, and are lodged 
 in a Temple. - - - Page 25 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Journey through the Capital to a Country Villa of the Emperor. 
 Return to Pekin. The Imperial Palace and Gardens of Yuen- 
 min-yuen, and the Parks of Gehol. 
 
 Order of Proceffion from Tong-clioo to the Capital. — Crowd off mbled on the Occa- 
 fvi. — Appearance of Pelin ivithout and within the Walls, — Some Account of this 
 City. — Proceed to a Country Villa of the Emperor.— Inconveniencies of. — Return to 
 Pekin.— Embojfador proceeds to Tartary. — Author fent to the Palace «/"Yueii-miii- 
 ^MfW.— Ad iferable Lodgings of. — Vifit of the Prefident and Members of the Mathe- 
 matical Tribunal. — Of the Bifjcp of Pekin, and others. — Gill's Sword-blades. 
 
 Hatchet t's Carriages. — Scorpion found in a Cajk packed at Birmingham. —Port raits 
 of Engl'flj Nobility. — Effects of Accounts from Tartary on the Officers of St.-:te in 
 Pehin. — Emperor's return to th: Capital. — InfpeHs the Prefents. — Application 
 of the Embafiidor for Leave to depart. — Short Account of the Palace and Gardens of 
 Yuen-min-yuen. — Lord Macartney's Dcfcription ofiheEafern and Weflern Parks 
 of Gehol.— And his general Remarks on Chinefe Land/cape Gardening. gj 
 
 CHAP.
 
 CONTENTS. vii 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Sketch of the State of Society in China. — Manners, Cuftoms, 
 Sentiments, and Moral Charader of the People. 
 
 Condition of Women, a Criterion of the State of Society. — Degraded State of in 
 ■China. — Domejlic Manners unfavourable to Filial AffeElion. — Parental Au- 
 thority, — /// EffeEis of feparating the Sexes. — Social Intercourse unkno7un, ex- 
 cept for gaming. Their Wor/hip fo/itary. — Fenfls of Netu Year.—Propenfity 
 to gaming, hfluence of the Laws feems to have defrayed the natural Cha- 
 mber of the People. — Made them indifferent, or cruel. — Various Inflances of 
 this Remark in public and in private Life, — Remarhs on Infanticide. — Perhaps 
 lefs general than ufually thought. — CharaEler of Chinefe in Foreign Countries. — 
 Temper and Dfpofition of the Chinefe. Merchants. Cuckoo-Clocks. — CondufI of 
 a Prince of the Blood. Of tJ^e Prime Minijler. Comparifon of the Phyfical and 
 Moral CharaBers of the Chinefe and Man-tchoo Tartars. General CharaBer of 
 the Nation illujirated. ... Page j^g 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Manners and Araufements of the Court — Reception of Em- 
 bafladors. — Charader and private Life of the Emperor — 
 His Eunuchs and Women. 
 
 General Characler of the Court — Of the Buildings about the Palace — Lord Macart- 
 nry'j- Aciount of his Introduction — Of the Celebration of the Emperor's Anniverfary 
 Ffival — Of a Puppet-Shew — Comedy and Pantomime — Wreflling — Conjuring 
 and Fire-Works — Reception find Entertainment of the Dutch Embaffadors from 
 a Manufcript Journal — Obfervations on the State of the Chinefe Stage — Extraor- 
 dinary Scene in one of their Dramas — Grofs and indelicate Exhibitions — Sketch of 
 Kien-LongV Life and Charader — Kills his Son' by an unlucky Blow — conceives 
 him/elf immortal — Influence of the Eunuchs at the Tartar Conquefl — their prefent 
 State and Offces — Emperor's Wife, ^leens, and Concubines — How difpofed of at 
 hi Death. - - - . jpi 
 
 CHAP.
 
 viii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. vr. 
 
 Language. — Literature, and the fine Arts. — Sciences. — Mecha- 
 nics, and Medicine. 
 
 Opinion of the Chincfe Language being hieroglyphical erroneous.— Hoclor Hager's viif- 
 tnka. — Etymological Comparifons fallacious. — Examples of. — Nature of the Chinefe 
 written CharaEler. — Difficulty and Ambiguity of. — Curious Mi/liiie of an eminent 
 Antiquarian. — Mode of acquiring the Characler. — Oral Language. — Mantchot, 
 Tartar Alphabet. — Chincfe Literature. — Afronomy. — Chronology. — Cycle offtxty 
 Tears. — Geography —'Arithmetic.— Chemical Arts. ~ Cannon and Gunpowder. — 
 Diflillation. — Potteries. — Silk ManufaHures. — Lvory.— Bamboo. — Paper. — Lnk.— 
 Printing,— Mechanics. — Mufic. — Painting. — Sculpture— Architeiluie. — Hotel of 
 the Engli/l} Embajfador in Pchin.— The Great Wall. -The Grand Canal.— 
 Bridges. — Cemeteries. — Natural Philofophy,— Medicine. — Chinefe Pharmacopoeia. 
 — Quacks. — Contagious Fevers. — Small-pox. — Opthalmia. — Venereal Difeafe. — 
 Midvjifry. — Surgery, — Doctor Gregory's Opinion of their Jlledical Knoivledge. — 
 Sir William Jones's Opinion of their general Characler. - Page 236 
 
 CHAP. vir. 
 
 Government — Laws — Tenures of Land and Taxes — Revenues 
 — Civil and Military Ranks, and Eftablifhments. 
 
 Opinions en which the Executive Authority is grounded. — Principle on which an Em- 
 peror of China feldom appears in public. — The Cenforate. — Public Departments. — 
 Laws. — Scale of Crimes and Puni/ljinents. — Laws regarding Homicide. — Curious 
 Law Cafe. — No Appeal from Civil Suits. — Defe£ls in the Executive Government. 
 —Duty of Obedience and Power of perfonal CorreBion. — Ruffta and China com- 
 pared.— Fate of the Prime MiniJJer Ho-chang-tong. — Tearly Calendar and Pekin 
 Gazette, engines of Government. — Freedom of the Prefs. — Duration of the Govern- 
 ment attempted to be explained. — Precautions of Government to prevent liifurreBions. 
 — Taxes and Revenues.— Civil and Military Eflablipments. — Chinefe Army, its 
 Numbers and Appointments. — ConduB of the Tartar Government at the Conquefl. — 
 Impolitic Change of late Tears, and the probable Confequences of it. 357 
 
 CHAP.
 
 CONTENTS. ix 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Conje£lures on the Origin of the Chinefe. — Their Religious 
 Sedts, — Tenets, — and Ceremonies. 
 
 EtnbnJJy departs from Pek'tn, and is lodged in a Temple. — Colony from F.gypt not ne- 
 cejfary to befuppofedf in order to account for Egyptian Mythology in China.— Opi- 
 nions concerning Chinefe Origin. — Obfervations on the Heights ofTartary. — Proba- 
 bly the Refling place of the Ark of Noah.— Ancients ignorant of the Chinefe.— Seres. 
 — Firjl knoivn Intercourje of Foreigners with China. — Jews. — Biidhijls. — Ne/lo- 
 rians. — Mahomedans — Roman Catholics. — ^larrels of the Jcfuits and Ihmini- 
 cans. — Religion of Coffucius. — Attached to the Predi^ion of future Events. — No- 
 lions entertained by him of a future State. — Of the Deity. — Doclrine not unlike that 
 of the Stoics. — Ceremonies in Honour of his Memory led to Idolatry. — Mifreprefen- 
 tations of the Mijftonaries with regardtothe Religion of the Chinefe. — The Tao-tze 
 or Sons of Immortals. — Their Beverage of Life. — TheDifciplesofYo or Budhijls. 
 — Comparifon of fame of the Hindu, Greek, Egyptian, and Chinefe Deities.— 'The 
 Lotos or Nelumbium. — Story of Ofiris and Ifis, and the Ifia compared with the 
 Imperial Ceremony of Ploughing. — Women vifit the Temples. — Praclical Part of 
 Chinefe Religion.— Funeral Obfequies. — Feajl of Lanterns.— Obeifance to the 
 Emperor performed in Temples leads to Idolatry. — Primitive Religion lojl or corrupted. 
 — Summary of Chinefe Religion. ... P.ige 4 1 S 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 journey from Tong-choo-foo to the Province of Canton. — 
 Face of the Country, and its Productions. — Buildings and 
 other Public Works. — Condition of the People. — State of 
 Agriculture. — Population. 
 
 Attentions paid to the Embaffy.— Obfervations on the Climate and Plains s/Te-tchC' 
 lee. — Plants of . — Diet and Condition of the People. — Burying-plncc. — Obferva- 
 tien on Chinefe Cities.— 'Trackers of the Tachts.— Entrance of the Grand Canal.— 
 
 z Th
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Thf FiJhingCorvcrant —Approach /o //•/• Yellow-River. — Ceremony of croffing this 
 Riv^r.—Obfervalkiis on Canals and Roads. — Improvement of the Country in ad- 
 vancing to the Southward.— Beauty of, near Sau-choo-foo. — Bridge of ninety-one 
 Arches. — Country near Hang-choo foo. — City of. — Appearance of the Country near 
 thi'Po-yingLake. — Obfervationi in Proceeding through\sJ\ang-ke. — Ti^f Camellia 
 Scfaiiqua. — Retrofpeflive View of the Climate and Produce, Diet and Condition of 
 the People, 9/ Vc-tche-\ee. — Some Obfcrvations on the Capital of China.— Province 
 of Shaii-tung.— 0/" Kiang-nm.- Obfervntions on the State of Agriculture in 
 China.— Rice Mills. — Province o/"Tche kiang. — ©/"Kiang-fee. — Population of 
 China compared with that of England. — Erroneous Opinions entertained on this Sub- 
 feci.— Comparative Population of a City in China and in England — Famines ac- 
 counted for. — Means of Prevention,— Caufes of the Populoujmfs of China. P. 488 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Journey through the Province of Canton. — Situation of Fo- 
 reigners trading to this Port. — Conclufion. 
 
 Vfble Chnnge in the CharaBer of the People. — Rugged Mountains.— Collieries — 
 Temple in a Cavern. — Stone ^/arries. — Various Plants for \jfe and Ornament. — 
 Arrive at Canton —Expence of the Rmbaffy to the Chinefe Government. — To the 
 Britifl} Nation. — Nature and Inconveniences of the Trade to Canton.— The Armenian 
 and his Pearl. — Impofitions of the Officers of Gciernment inffanced. — Principal 
 
 Caufe of them is the Ignorance of the Language Cafe ofChinefe trading to London. 
 
 — A Chinefe killed by a Seaman of His Majefly's Ship Madras. — Delinquent faved 
 from an ignominious Death, by a proper Alode of Communication with the Govern- 
 ment. — Conclusion. - - ~ 59'
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Portrait of Van-ta-g'in the Frontifpiece. 
 
 Trad'mg Vejfel and Rice Mill to face page 37. 
 
 Portraits of a Chinefe and a Hottentot to face page 50. 
 
 View in the Imperial Park at Gehol to face page 128. 
 
 Artillery^ between pages 302 and 303 with Sl guard. 
 
 Miijical Injlruments between pages 314 and 315 with a guard. 
 
 Arch of a Bridge to face page 338. 
 
 Chinefe Village^ and Mandarin's Dwelling, to face page 345. 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 10. line 12. tf(/^ a between of and crime 
 
 2,3. — 2. for iwice rtad thrice 
 
 39. line lart, f^ir Mjno r. Marco 
 
 44. — a6. y^r Toitanigue r. Tootanague 
 
 46. — '3- y^' G"3ffe r Giraffe 
 
 gl. — I. fli/^ to between mafler an! which 
 
 J03, — 17. /c monuments r. Monument 
 
 I2.Z. — 7. d(// the between of and palaces 
 
 )2y. . — 3. for iher r. their 
 
 141. — I. '/o' whit r. with 
 
 1S3. — 13. /o'' the r. a 
 
 1S6. — 4*/"'' 'oul'e r, lofe 
 
 224.' in the ro'.e, yir A. Calpum'us r, T. Calpurnius 
 
 23^. — 13. tf^rer crols place X 
 
 205. — 2T. /pr rumcrcial r. nunncrlca't 
 
 3^4, — 15. y&r on r. in 
 
 — 16 forxn r, on 
 
 416. — I-/*'' bl'jok r. (lock 
 
 568. — 12. for fiom r. form 
 
 _ .^ — JTyr form r. frrm 
 
 583. — . lall/er liiegr and r. the grard
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The fentiments advanced in the prefent Work, and the point 
 of view in which fome of the fads are confidered, being fo very 
 different from the almoft univerfally received opinion, and 
 iome of them from the opinion of thofe to whofe friendfhip the 
 Author is particularly indebted for various literary communi- 
 cations, he thinks it right to declare, that they are the unbiafled 
 conclufions of his own mind, founded altogether on his own 
 obfervations ; and he trufts that the Public, in confidering him 
 alone refponfible, will receive them with its ufual candour. 
 
 TRAVLES
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 I N 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 PRELIMINARY MATTER. 
 
 IntraduHion.-— General View of -what Travellers are likely to meet •with in China.— 
 Mijlaken Notions entertained with regard to the Britijh EmhaJJy — correBed by the 
 Reception and Treatment of the fubfequent Dutch Emhaffy. — Suppofed Points of 
 Fniliifn ill i!je former, as Jiated by a French Mijfonary frnm Peiin, refuted,— 
 Kien Long's Letter to the King of Holland.— Difference of Treatment experienced 
 by the two Embaffies explained,— Intrigues of Miffionaries in foreign Countries.— 
 Pride and Self-importance of the Chinefe Court. — Lifl of European Embaffies, 
 and the Time of their Mode in Pekin.'—Csncliifion of Preliminary Subjecl. 
 
 XT is hardly neceflary to obferve that, after the able and Inte- 
 refting account of the proceedings and refult of the Britifh 
 Embafly to the court of China, by the late Sir George Staun- 
 ton (who was no lefs amiable for liberality of fentimcnt, than 
 remarkable for vigour of intelled) it would be an idle, and, 
 indeed, a fuperfluous undertaking, in any other perfon who ac- 
 
 B companied
 
 c TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 companicd the embafTy, to dwell on thofe fubjeds which have 
 been treated by him in fo mafterly a manner ; or to recapi- 
 tulate thofe incidents and tranfadions, which he has detailed 
 with equal elegance and accuracy. 
 
 But, as it will readily occur to every one, there are ftlll many 
 interefting fubjeds, on which Sir George, from the nature of 
 his work, could only barely touch, and others that did not 
 come within his plan, one great objedt of which was to un- 
 fold the views of the embafTy, and to (hew that every thing, 
 which could be done, was done, for promoting the interefts of 
 the Brilifli nation, and fupporting the dignity of the Britifh 
 charader ; the Author of the prefent work has ventured, 
 though with extreme diffidence, and with the confcioufnefs of 
 the difadvantage under which he mull appear after that " Ac- 
 " count of the EmbafTy," to lay before the public the point 
 of view in which he faw the Chinefe empire, and the Chinefe 
 charader. In doing this, the fame fa£\;s will fomettmes necef- 
 farily occur, that have already been publifhed, for reafons that 
 it would be needlefs to mention ; but whenever that happens 
 to be the cafe, they will briefly be repeated, for the purpofe of 
 illuftrating fome pofition, or for deducing fome general infe- 
 rence. Thus, for inftance, the document given to the Embaf- 
 fador of the population of China will be noticed, not however 
 under the colour of its being an unqueftionably accurate ftate- 
 ment, but, on the contrary, to fhew that it neither is, nor can 
 be, corred ; yet at the fame time to endeavour to prove, by 
 fads and analogy, that, contrary to the received opinion, the 
 country is capable of fupporting not only three hundred and 
 
 I thirty-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 3 
 
 thirty-three millions of people, but that it might adually afford 
 the means of fubfiftence to twice that number. The confirma- 
 tion, indeed, of new and important fatSts, though very dif- 
 ferent conclufions be drawn from them, cannot be entirely 
 unacceptable to the reader ; for as different perfons will gene- 
 rally fee the fame things in different points of view, fo, perhaps, 
 by combining and comparing the different defcriptlons and 
 colouring that may be given of the fame objedls, the public is 
 enabled to obtain the mofl: correct notions of fuch matters as 
 can be learned only from the report of travellers. 
 
 With regard to China, if we except the work of Sir George 
 Staunton, and the limited account of Mr. Bell of Antermony, 
 which was not written by himfelf, it may be confidered as 
 unbeaten ground by Britons. We have heard a great deal of 
 Chinefe knavery pradifed at Canton, but, except in the two 
 works abovementioned, we have not yet heard the fentiments 
 of an Eugliftiman at all actjualnted with the manners, cufloms, 
 and charadter of the Chiaefe nation. The voluminous commu- 
 nications of the miffionaries are by no means fatisfadory ; and 
 fome of their defeats will be noticed and accounted for in the 
 courfe of this work ; the chief aim of which will be to fliew 
 this extraordinary people in their proper colours, not as their 
 own moral maxims would reprefent them, but as they really 
 are — to diveft the court of the tinfel and the tawdry varnifh 
 with which, like the palaces of the Emperor, the mifllonaries 
 have found it expedient to cover it in their writings ; and to 
 endeavour to draw fuch a fketch of the manners, the ftatc of 
 fociety, the language, literature and fine arts, the fciences 
 
 B 2 and
 
 4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 and civil inftltutlons, the religious worfhip and opinions, the 
 population and progrefs of agriculture, the civil and moral cha- 
 rader of the people, as may enable the reader to fettle, in his 
 own mind, the point of rank which China may be coiiftdered to 
 hold in the fi ale of civilized nations. 
 
 The ftablllty of the Chinefe government ; the few changes 
 that have been made in its civil inftitutions for fuch a number 
 of ages ; the vaft extent of empire and immenfe population, 
 forming one fociety, guided by the fame laws, and governed by 
 the will of a fmgle individual, offer, as Sir George Staunton has 
 obferved, " the grandeft collective objed that can be prefented 
 " for human contemplation or refearch." The cuftoms, habits 
 and manners, the wants and refources, the language, fentiments 
 and religious notions, of " the moft ancient fociety and the moft 
 *' populous empire exifting amongft men," are, without doubt 
 moft interefling fubjeds for the inveftigation of the philofo- 
 pher, and not unworthy the attention of the ftatefman. But 
 the expedations of the man ot Icience, the artift, or the natur- 
 alift, might perhaps be rather difappointed, than their curiofity 
 be gratified, in travelling through this extenfive country. It 
 can boaft of few works of art, few remains of ancient gran- 
 deur. The great wall, that for a time defended its peaceable 
 inhabitants againft the attacks of the roving Tartars, the walls 
 of its numerous cities, with their fquare towers and lofty 
 gates, and here and there an old pagoda, are its only architec- 
 tural antiquities; and, when thefe are excepted, there is not 
 perhaps a fmgle building in the whole extent of China that has 
 vvithftood the adion of three centuries. There are no ancient 
 palaces nor other public edifices, no paintings nor pieces of 
 
 fculp-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 5 
 
 fculpture, to arreft the attention of the traveller, unlefs It might 
 be from the novelty of their appearance. In travelling over the 
 continent of Europe, and more efpecially on the claflic ground 
 of Italy and Greece, every city, mountain, river, and ruin, are 
 rendered interefting by fomething on record which concerns 
 them ; the theme of fome poet, the feat of fome philofopher or 
 lawgiver, the fcene of fome memorable aclion, they all infpire 
 us with the livelieft fenfations, by reviving in the mind thofe 
 pleafures which the ftudy of their hiftory afforded in early life. 
 To Europeans the hiftory of China has hitherto furnifhed no 
 materials for fuch recurrence, and the country itfelf is therefore 
 incapable of communicating fuch impreffions. In vain fhould 
 we here look for the maffy and ftupendous fabrics that appear 
 In the pyramids and the pillars of the ancient Egyptians ; the 
 beautiful and fymmetrical works of art difplayed in the temples of 
 the Greeks ; the grand and magnificent remains of Roman 
 architedlure ; or that combination of convenience and elegance 
 of defign which charaflerlze the modern buildings of Europe. 
 In China every city is nearly the fame : a quadrangular fpace of 
 groimd Is enclofed with walls of ftone, of brick, or of earth, all 
 built upon the fame plan j tKfe houfes within them of the fame 
 conftrudlion ; and the ftreets, except the principal ones that run 
 from gate to gate, invariably narrow. The temples are, nearly, 
 all alike, of the fame awkward defign as the dwelling-houfes, but 
 on a larger fcale ; and the objeds that are known in Europe by 
 the name of pagodas, are of the fame inelegant kind of archi- 
 tedure, from one extremity of the empire to the other, differing 
 only in the number of rounds or ftories, and in the materials of 
 which they are conftrudled. The manners, the drefs, the amufe- 
 ments of the people, are nearly the fame. Even the furface of the 
 
 country,
 
 6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 country, as far as regards the fifteen ancient provinces, Is fubjed 
 to little variation, and efpecially thofe parts over which the 
 grand inland navigation is carried ; the only parts, in fad, that 
 foreigners travelling in China have any chance of vifiting. 
 
 In this route no very great variety nor number of fubjeds 
 occur in the department of natural hiftory. Few native plants, 
 and ftill fewer wild animals, arc to be expeded in thofe parts of 
 a country that are populous and well cultivated. Indeed the 
 rapid manner in which the prefeut journey was made, was ill 
 fuited for colleding and examining fpecimens even of thofe few 
 that did occur. 
 
 On thefe confiderations it is hoped that the indulgence of 
 the reader will not be withheld, where information on fuch 
 points may appear to be defedive. A French critic * (perhaps 
 without doing him injuftice he may be called a hypercritic) who 
 happened to vifit Canton for a few months, fome fifty years 
 ago, has, with that happy confidence peculiar to his nation, not 
 only pointed out the errors and defeds of the information com- 
 municated to the world by the Englifli and the Dutch embaflies, 
 but has laid down a fyllabus of the fubjeds they ought to have 
 made themfelves completely acquainted with, which, inftead of 
 feven months, would feem to require arefidence of feven years in 
 the country. But the author of the prefent work refts his confi- 
 dence in the Englifh critics being lefs unreafonable in their de- 
 mands ; and that their indulgences will be proportioned to the 
 difficulties that occurred in colleding accurate information. 
 
 * Monfieur (I beg his pardon) Ciicyen Charpentier Cofligny. 
 
 With
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 7 
 
 With this reliance, the defcriptions, obfervations, and compari- 
 fons, fuch as they are, he prefents to the public, candidly ac- 
 knowledging that he is actuated rather by the hope of meeting its 
 forbearance, than by the confidence of deferving its approbation. 
 
 Perhaps it may not be thought amifs, before he enters on the 
 more immediate fubjedt of the work, to corred, in this place, a 
 very miftaken notion that prevailed on the return of the embafly, 
 which was, that an unconditional compliance of Lord Macartney 
 with all the humiliating ceremonies which the Chinefe might 
 have thought proper to exa£l from him, would have been pro- 
 du£live of refults more favourable to the views of the embafly, 
 AfTertions of fuch a general nature are more eafily made than 
 refuted, and indeed unworthy of attention ; but a letter of a 
 French miffionary at Pekin to the chief of the Dutch factory 
 at Canton is deferving of fome notice, becaufe it fpeclfies the 
 reafons to which, according to the writer's opinion, was owing 
 the fuppofed failure of the Britifti embafTy. In fpeaking of 
 this fubje(n: he obferves, " Never was an embafly deferving of 
 *' better fuccefs ! whether it be confidered on account of the 
 " experience, the wifdom, and the amiable qualities of Lord 
 *' Macartney and Sir George Staunton ; or of the talents, the 
 " knowledge, and the circumfped behaviour of the gentlemen 
 " who compofed their Suite ; or of the valuable and curious 
 " prefents intended for the Emperor — and yet, ftrange to tell, 
 " never was there an embafly that fuccceded fo ill ! 
 
 " You may be curious, perhaps, to know the reafon of an 
 " event fo unfavourable and fo extraordinary. I will tell you 
 
 "in
 
 8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " in a few words. Thefe gentlemen, like all ftrangers, who 
 
 •' know China only from books, were ignorant of the manner 
 
 *' of proceeding, of the cuftoms and the etiquette of this court ; 
 
 " and, to add to their misfortune, they brought with them a 
 
 " Chinefe interpreter ftill lefs informed than themfelves. The 
 
 •' confcquencc of all which was that, in the firft place, they 
 
 " came without any prefents for the Minifter of State, or for 
 
 " the fons of the Emperor. Secondly, they refufed to go 
 
 " through the ufual ceremony of fainting the Emperor, with- 
 
 " out offering any fatisfadory reafon for fuch refufal. Thirdly, 
 
 " They prefcnted themfelves in clothes that were too plain, 
 
 •' and too common. Fourthly, They did not ufe the precaution 
 
 " to fee (graiffer la patte) the feveral perfons appointed to the 
 
 " fuperintendance of their affairs. Fifthly, Their demands 
 
 " were not made in the tone and ftyle of the country. Ano- 
 
 " ther reafon of their bad fuccefs, and, in my mind, the prin- 
 
 " cipal one, was owing to the intrigues of a certain miflionary, 
 
 " who, Imagining that this embaffy might be injurious to the 
 
 " interefts of his own country, did not fail to excite unfavour- 
 
 " able impreffions againft the Englifh nation." 
 
 The points of failure enumerated In this letter of Monfieur 
 Grammont, were fo many fpurs to the Dutch fadlory to try 
 their fuccefs at the court of Pekin the following year. No 
 fooner did Mr. Van Braam receive this difpatch, by the return 
 of the Englifh embaffy to Canton, than he prepared a letter 
 for the Commiffaries General at Batavia, In which he Informed 
 them, that as It was the Intention of the different nations who 
 had fa(Sories eftablilhed in Canton, to fend embaffaders to the 
 
 capital,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 9 
 
 Capital, for the purpofe of congratulating the Emperor on his 
 attaining the age of eighty-four years, which would be in the 
 fixtieth year of his reign, he had refolved to proceed on fuch 
 a miffion on the part of the Baravian Republic, and requefted 
 that he might be furniflied, without delay, with fuitable cre- 
 dentials. To this application the Commiflaries General, who 
 had been fent out the fame year to retrench the expences of 
 the Company in their Indian fettlements, and to reform abufes, 
 returned for anfwer. That, " however low and inadequate their 
 " finances might be to admit of extraordinary expences, yet 
 " they deemed it expedient not to (hew any backwardncfs in 
 *' adopting fimilar meafures to thofe purfued by other Euro- 
 " peans trading to China ; and that they had, accordingly, 
 " nominated Mr. Titfingh as chief, and himfelf (Mr. Van 
 " Braam) as fecond Embalfador to the Court of China." 
 
 Mr. Titfingh loft no time in repairing to Canton, and thefe 
 two EmbalTadors, determining to avail themfelves of the hints 
 thrown out in Monfieur Grammont's letter, and thereby to 
 avoid fplitting on the fame rock which, they took for granted, 
 the Britifh Embaffador had done, cheerfully fubmitted to every 
 humiliating ceremony required from them by the Chinefc, who, 
 in return, treated them in the moft contemptuous and indignant 
 manner. At Canton they were ordered to afTift in a folemn 
 proceflion of Mandarines to a temple in the neigbourhood, and 
 there, before the Emperor's name, painted on cloth, and fuf- 
 pended above the altar, to bow their heads nine times to the 
 ground, in token of gratitude for his great condefcenfion in 
 permitting them to proceed to his prefence, in order to offer 
 
 c him
 
 10 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 liim tribute. Tlicy fubmitted even to the demands of the ftate- 
 officers of Canton, that the letter, written by the Commif- 
 faries General at Batavia to the Emperor of China, and tranf- 
 lated there into the Chinefe language, fliould be broke open, 
 and the contents read by them ; and that they fhould further 
 be allowed to make therein fuch alterations and additions as 
 they might think proper. The EmbafTador, refolving not to 
 be wanting in any point of civility, requefted to know when 
 he might have the honour of paying his refpeds to the Viceroy ; 
 and received for anfwer, that the cuftoms of the country did 
 not allow a perfon in his fituation to come within the walls 
 of the Viceroy's palace, but that one of his officers fhould re- 
 ceive his vifit at the gate ; which vifit to the gats was literally 
 made. Mr. Van Braam, in relating this circumftance in his 
 journal, obferves, that the Viceroy " aflured his Excellency, he 
 " ought not to take his refufal aniifs, as the fame terms had 
 ** been prefcribed to Lord Macartney the preceding year." 
 Mr. Van Braam knew very well that Lord Macartney never 
 fubjeifled himfelf to any fuch refufal ; and he knew too, that 
 the fame Viceroy accompanied his Lordfliip in a great part 
 of his journey from the Capital : that he partook of a repair, 
 on the invitation of Lord Macartney, at the Britilh factory ;. 
 when, for the firft time, both Mr. Van Braam and the fuper- 
 cargoes of all the European nations had been permitted to (it 
 down in the prefence of one of his rank. 
 
 At Pekin they were required to humiliate themfelves at leaft 
 thirty different times, at each of which they were obliged, on 
 their knees, to knock their heads nine times againft the ground, 
 
 which
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. tt 
 
 which Mr. Van Braam, in his journal, very coolly calls, per- 
 forming the falute of honour, " f^'fe le falut (fhonneurr 
 And they were finally difmifled, with a few paltry pieces of 
 filk, without having once been allowed to open their lips on 
 any kind of bufinefs ; and without being permitted to fee either 
 their friend Grammont, or any other European miflionary, 
 except one, who had fpecial leave to make them a vifit of half 
 an hour, the day before their departure, in prefence of ten or 
 twelve officers of government. On their arrival in this Capital 
 they were lodged, literally, in a ftable ; under the fame cover, 
 and in the fame apartment, with a parcel of cart-horfes. Mr. 
 Van Braam's own words are, " Nous vvila done a notre arrivee 
 " dans la celebre refidence hnper'iale^ loges dans une efpece d'ecnrte, 
 *' Nous fer ion t nous attendus a une pareille avanture C 
 
 After fuch a vile reception and degrading treatment of the 
 Dutch Embafly, what advantages can reafonably be expeded 
 t-o accrue from a fervile and unconditional compliance with the 
 fubmiffions required by this haughty government ? It would 
 rather feem that their exa£lions are proportioned to the com- 
 plying temper of the perfons with whom they have to treaf. 
 For it appears, not only from Mr. Van Braam's own account 
 of the EmbafTy, but alio from two manufcript journals in the 
 Author's pofleffion, one kept by a Dutch gentleman in the 
 fuite, and the other by a native Chinefe, that the Embafladors 
 from the Batavian Republic were fully prepared to obviate^ 
 every difficulty that might arife from the fuppofed points of 
 failure in the Britifh Embafly, as directed to their notice? 
 by M. Grammont. In the firft place, they not only carried 
 
 c 2 prefeijts
 
 IS 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 prefents for the Minifters of State, but they calmly fuffered 
 thele gentlemen to trick them out of the only curious and valu- 
 able articles among the prefents intended for the Emperor, and 
 to fubftitute others, of a mean and common nature, in their 
 place. Secondly, they not only complied with going through 
 the ufual ceremony of fainting the Emperor, but alfo of falut- 
 ing the Emperor's name, painted on a piece of filk, at lead fifty 
 times, on their journey to and from the Capital i which de- 
 grading ceremony they even condefcended to perform before 
 the perfon of the Prime Minifter. With regard to the third 
 point, it certainly appears that no expence had been fpared in 
 providing themfelves with fplendid robes for the occafion ; but, 
 unfortunately, they had but few opportunities of making ufe 
 of them, their baggage not arriving at the Capital till many 
 days after they had been there. Nor does it feem that the 
 drefs of a foreign Embaflador is confidered of much confe- 
 quence in the eyes of the Chinefe ; for, when thefe gentlemen 
 wifhed to excufe themfelves from going to court, on account 
 of their dufty and tattered clothes, in which they had per- 
 formed a moft painful journey, the Matter of the Ceremonies 
 obferved, that it was not their dre/s, but their per/bm, which 
 the Emperor, his mafter, was defirous to fee. And, it can 
 hardly be fuppofed, they would omit obferving the fourth) 
 article, which, Mr. Grammont is of opinion, was negledled by 
 Lord Macartney. And, in the laft place, they ftand fully 
 acquitted of any want of humility in the tone and flyle of their 
 communications, after having allowed their credentials to be 
 new modelled by the officers of Government at Canton ; from 
 which city they had alfo an interpreter, a very proper one, no 
 doubt, appointed to attend them.. 
 
 3 Their
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 15 
 
 Their mlffion, it is true, was not well calculated for making 
 terms or rejeding propofals. The Chinefe were not unac- 
 quainted with the declining finances of the Dutch ; they knew 
 very well that the embalTy had originated in Canton, and that it 
 was accredited only from their fuperiors in Batavia. In their 
 journey they were haraflcd beyond tneafure ; fometimes they 
 were lodged in wretched hovels, without furniture and without 
 cover ; fometimes they were obliged to pafs the night in the 
 open air, when the temperature was below the freezing point; 
 frequently for four and twenty hours they had nothing to eat. 
 Van Braam obferves that, owing to the fatigues of the journey, 
 the badnefs of the victuals, their early rifing and expofure to 
 the cold, he loft about five inches in the circumference of his 
 body. Being rather corpulent, and not very expert in perform- 
 ing the Chinefe ceremony at their public introdu£lion, his hat 
 happened to fall on the ground, upon which the old Emperor 
 began to laugh. " Thus," fays he, " I received a mark of dif- 
 " tin£lion and predilection, fuch as never Embaffador was ho- 
 " noured with before. I confefs," continues he, " that the recol- 
 " ledion of my fufFerings from the cold in waiting fo long in the 
 " morning, was very much foftened by this incident." No man 
 will certainly envy this gentleman's happy turn of minj, in 
 receiving fo much fatisfadion in being laughed at. 
 
 The tone of the Emperor's letter, with which they were dif- 
 mifled, while it fpeaks the vain and arrogant fentiments of this 
 haughty government, fhews at the fame time how well ac- 
 quainted they were with the circumftances that gave rife to the 
 miflion, and the degree of eftimation in which they held it. It 
 
 was
 
 ,4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 was written In the Tartar, Chinefe, and Latin languages, from 
 the laft of which, as rendered by the miflionaries, the following 
 is a literal tranflation. The contents were addrefled to the 
 Council of India, but on the outfide wrapper, " To the King of 
 " HQllatiH." It may fcrve at the fame time as a fpecimen of 
 Chinefe compofition. 
 
 " I haTe received from heaven the fceptre of this vaft empire. 
 " I have reigned for fixty years with glory and happinefs ; and 
 *' have eftabliflied the moft profound peace upon the four 
 *' feas * of the faid empire, to the benefit of the nations bor- 
 " dering upon them. The fame of my majefty and proofs of 
 " my magnificence have found their way into every part of the 
 " world, and they conRitute the pride and the pleafure of my 
 *' vaft domains. 
 
 *' I confider my own happy empire, and other kingdoms, 
 " as one and the fame family ; the princes and the people are, 
 " in my eye, the fame men. I condefcend to fhed my bleffings 
 ** over all, ftrangers as well as natives ; and there is no country, 
 " however diftant, that has not received inftances of my bene- 
 " vaJence. Thus, all nations fend to do me homage, and to 
 " congratulate me inceflantly. New and fucceffive Embafllidors 
 ■*' arrive, fome drawn in chariots over land, and others traverfe, 
 •' in their fliips, the immenfity of the feas. In fad, I attend 
 
 * This cxpreiTion alludes to the ancient opinion that China was furrounded by the fea, 
 and that the reft of the world was made up of idands. Yet though they now poflefa a 
 tolerable notion of geography, fuch is their inveterate adherence to ancient opinion, that 
 they prefer retaining the mod. abfurd errors, rather than change one fingle fentiment or 
 rxprdTion that Confucius has written. 
 
 <c 
 
 to
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 15, 
 
 " to nothing but the good adminlftration of my empire. I feel 
 
 " a lively joy in obferving the anxiety with which they flock 
 
 *' together from every quarter to contemplate and admire the 
 
 " wife adminlftration of my government. I experience the 
 
 " moft agreeable fatisfadion in participating my happinefs 
 
 " with foreign ftates. I applaud therefore your government, 
 
 *' which, although feparated from mine by an immenfe ocean, 
 
 " has not failed to fend me congratulatory letters, accompanied 
 
 ** with tributary offerings.. 
 
 " Having perufed your letters, I obferve that they contain 
 " nothing but what I confider as authentic teftimonies of your 
 *' great veneration for me, from whence I conclude that you 
 " admire my mode of governing. In fad, you have great 
 " reafon to applaud me. Since you have carried on 
 " your trade at Canton, (and it is now many years,) ftrangers 
 " have always been well treated in my empire ; and they have 
 " individually been the objeds of my love and affedion. I 
 " might call to witnefs the Portuguefe, the Italians, the Englifli, 
 ** and others of the fame fort of nations, who are all equally 
 " efteemed by me, and have all prefented me with pre- 
 " cious gifts. All have been treated, on my part, after the 
 " fame manner, and without any partiality. I give abundantly 
 " even when thofe things I received from them are of no 
 *' value. My manner of doing thefe things is undoubtedly 
 " known in your country. 
 
 " Concerning your Embaffador, he Is not, properly fpeaking, 
 ** fent by his King ; but you, who are a company of merchants,^ 
 
 " have
 
 i6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " have fuppofed yourfelves authorized to pay me this refped. 
 
 *' Your Sovereign, however, hsving dircdled you to chufe a fa- 
 
 " vourable momentof my reign, you havenowfent to felicitate me 
 
 " accordingly in the name of your faid Sovereign. The fixtieth 
 
 •• year of my reign was about to be completed. You, a com- 
 
 " pany, too diftant from your Sovereign, could not announce it 
 
 " to him. Interpreting this to be his pleafure, you have under- 
 
 " taken to fend, in his name, to do me homage ; and I have no 
 
 " doubt this prince is infpired towards me with the fame fenti- 
 
 " ments which I have experienced in you. I have, therefore, 
 
 " received your Embaflador as if he had been fent immediately 
 
 " by his King. And I am defirous you fliould be made ac- 
 
 *' quainted that I have remarked nothing in the perfon of your 
 
 " Embaflador, but what bore teflimony of his refped for me, 
 
 " and of his own good conduit. 
 
 " I commanded my great officers to introduce him to my 
 " prefence. I gave him feveral entertainments, and permitted 
 " him to fee the grounds and the palaces that are within my vaft 
 " and magnificent gardens of Yuen m'm Yuen. I have fo adled 
 " that he might feel the effeds of my attention, dividing with 
 " him the pleafures which the profound peace of my empire 
 " allows me to enjoy. I have, moreover, made valuable pre- 
 " fents, not only to him, but alfo to the officers, interpreters, 
 " foldiers, and fervants of his fuite, giving them, befides what 
 " is cuftomary, many other articles, as may be feen by the 
 " catalogue. 
 
 Your
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 17 
 
 " Your Embaflador being about to return to the prefence of 
 " his fovereign, I have direft^d him to prefent to this Prince 
 " pieces of filk and other valuable articles to which I have 
 ** added fome antique vafes. 
 
 " May your King receive my prefent. May he govern his 
 " people with wifdom ; and give his fole attention to this grand 
 " objed, atSting always with an upright and fmcere heart : 
 *' and, laftly, may he always cherifh the recolledlion of my 
 " beneficence ! May this King attentively watch over the affairs 
 " of his kingdom. I recommend it to him ftrongly and ear- 
 " neftly. 
 
 " The twenty-fourth day of the firft moon of the fixtleth 
 " year of the reign of Kien Long." 
 
 The very different treatment which the Englifh embaffy receiv- 
 ed at the court of Pekin is eafily explained. The Chinefe are well 
 informed of the fuperiority of the Englifh over all other nations 
 by fea ; of the great extent of their commerce ; of their vafl 
 poffeffions in India which they have long regarded with a jea- 
 lous eye ; and of the charadler and independent fpirit of the 
 nation. They perceived, in the manly and open conduct of 
 Lord Macartney, the reprefentative of a fovereign in no way in- 
 ferior to the Emperor of China, and they felt the propriety, 
 though they were unwilling to avow it, of exadling only the 
 fame token of refpeiS: from him towards their fovereign, that one 
 of their own countrymen, of equal rank, fliould pay to the por- 
 trait of his Britannic majefty. It muft, however, have been a 
 
 D hard
 
 ,8 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 hard nruggle between perfonal pride, and national innportance,. 
 before they refolvcd to rcje£t fo fair a propofal, and confent to 
 wave a ceremony which had never, on any former occafion,. 
 been difpenfed with. It is eafy to conceive how ftrong an im- 
 preffion the refufal of an individual to comply with the cere- 
 monies of the conntry was likely to make on the minds of the 
 Emperor and his court : how much they muft have fuffered in 
 their own opinion, and how greatly muft their pride have been 
 mortified, to find that by no trick, nor artifice, nor ftretch of power, 
 could they prevail on an Englifli Embaflador to forego the dig- 
 nity and refpedt due to the fituation he held at their court, whi- 
 ther they were now convinced he had not come, as was fignified 
 in painted letters on the colours of the fhips that tranfported the 
 embafly up the Pei-ho, " to offer tribute to the Emperor of 
 « Chwa." 
 
 With regard to the intrigues of the Portugueze mliTionary^ 
 mentioned in Mr. Grammont's letter,^ Lord Macartney was fuf- 
 ficiently aware of them long before his arrival in the capital, and: 
 took fuch meafure§, in confequence of the information, as were 
 moft likely to be effedual in counteracting any influence that 
 he might fecretly exert, injurious to the interefts of the Britifli 
 nation. But the intrigues of churchmen are not always eafily 
 obviated, efpecially where they are fufpicious of their errors being- 
 expofed or their ignorance deteded. It is a painful truth (and 
 is noticed here with reludance, on account of the many worthy 
 members of the fociety) that the minifters of a certain branch of 
 a religion whofe diftinguifhing feature is meeknefs and forbear- 
 ance, fhould have fo far perverted the intention of its benevo- 
 lent
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 19. 
 
 lent author, as to have produced more intrigues, cabals, and 
 perfecutions, than even the relentlefs Mahomedans, whofe firfti 
 article of faith inculcates merit in deftroying thofe of a different 
 perfuafion. Their political intrigues and interference in ftato-. 
 affairs, have done material injury to the caufe of Chriftianity in 
 almoft every country into which their millions have extended. 
 
 The malignant fpirit of this fame Portugueze miffilonary was- 
 not confined to the framing of falfhcods and mifreprefentations 
 with regard to the views of the Britifti embafly, but has. con- 
 tinued to exert its influence at the court of Pekin, in the fame 
 fecret and difhonourable way, whenever an opportunity oc- 
 curred that feemed favourable for raifing unwan-antable fufpi- 
 clons in the minds of the Chinefe againft the EngUlh nation. 
 Towards the clofe of the lall war, when it was found expedient, 
 to take pofielTion of fome of the Portugueze colonies, and an 
 expedition for this purpofe was a(flually fent out to fecure the 
 peninfula of Macao, this miflionary loft no time in fuggefting 
 to the Chinefe court, that the defigns of the Englifh in getting 
 pofTeflion of Macao might be of the fame nature as thofe theyr 
 had already pradifed in India ; and that if they were once fufh 
 fered to get footing in the country, China might experience; 
 the fame fate as Hindoftan. Fortunately for the concerns 06 
 the Britifli Eaft India Company this officious interference and 
 the malevolent infmuations oi Bernardo Abneyda took a very 
 different turn to what he had expecfled. The intelligence of a 
 hoftile force fo near the coaft of China coming firft from an 
 European miffionary, implied a negle£t in the Viceroy of Can- 
 ton, and an angry letter was addreffed to him from court, 
 
 D 2 ordering
 
 so TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ordering him to give immediate and accurate information on 
 the fubje£l. The Viceroy, nettled at the officious zeal of the 
 Portugueze, pofitively denied the (aO: of any hoftile intention 
 of the Enghfh, " who, being a brave people, and terrible in 
 " arms, had intimidated the Portugueze at Macao, though 
 " without reafon, as their (hips of war, as ufual, came only to 
 " protect their fhips of commerce againft their enemies." When 
 this difpatch of the Viceroy reached Pekin, the Emperor was 
 fo exafperated to think that the Court had fuffered itfelf to be 
 mifled by an European miffionary, that he ordered Almeyda to 
 appear before the mafter of the houfehold, and on his knees 
 to afk forgivenefs of crime, which, he was told, deferved to be 
 punifhed with death ; and he was difmifled with a caution never 
 more to interfere in the ftate affairs of China. The whole of this 
 curious tranfadion is publifhed in the Pekin Gazette of lafl 
 year ; fo that the Englifh have gained a confiderable degree of 
 reputation by it, fo much, indeed, that the Chinefe at Canton 
 (and a great deal depends upon their reprefentatlons) would 
 have no objeftion to fee the Englifh in pofTeflion of Macao j 
 for they cordially hate, I believe it is not too much to fay 
 they defpife, the Portugueze, and they fpeak with horror of 
 the French. What a moment then is this for England to turn 
 to its advantage I 
 
 Independent, however, of the machinations of mifTiona- 
 lies, fuch is the pride and the haughty infolence of the Chinefe 
 government, that, in no inflance on record, but that of the 
 Britifh embaffy, has it ever relaxed from its long eftablifhed 
 cuftoms, nox acquiefced in any demands of foreign embaffadors, 
 
 whether
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 21 
 
 whether tlie tone in which they were made was fupplicating or 
 authoritative. The forms of the court they contend to be as 
 immutable as were the laws of the Medes and Perfians. Every 
 thing muft be conduced by prefcriptive ufage, and no devia- 
 tion allowed from the rules which for ages have been eftablifhed 
 by law, and regiftered by the council of ordinances ; much 
 lefs the remiflion of any duty that might derogate from the 
 reverence and refpe£l which are confidered to be due to the per- 
 fon of the Emperor. 
 
 It may be imagined, then, that an event fo new as a refufal 
 to fubmit to the degrading ceremony required from an embaf- 
 fador, at his public introdudion, could not fail of making a 
 very ftrong impreflion on the minds of thofe about the perfon 
 of his Imperial Majcfty ; who, as Mr. Van Braam fays, were 
 (and without doubt they were) much better fatisfied with the 
 complying temper of the Dutch, than with the inflexible pertina- 
 city of the Englifh. Yet, they did not venture to lodge the latter 
 in a liable, nor think proper to perfevere in demanding unrea- 
 fonable homage. Neither was any pique or ill-nature apparent 
 in any fingle inftance, after the departure of the embafly from 
 the capital, but very much the contrary. The officers ap- 
 pointed to conduft it to Canton teftified the moft earneft 
 defire to pleafe, by a ready attention to every minute circum- 
 ftance that might add to the comforts of the travellers, or alle- 
 viate, if not entirely remove, any little inconvenience. It was 
 a flattering circumftance to the embafllador to obferve their 
 anxiety for the favourable opinion of a nation they had now 
 begun to think more highly of, and of whom, in meafuring 
 
 3 with
 
 22 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 with themlclves, it was not difficult to perceive, they felt, 
 though too cautious to avow, the fuperiority. 
 
 The Britifli embafly was a meafure which it was abfolutely 
 neceffary to adopt, for reafons that are ftated at full length in 
 the tirfl: chapter of Sir George Staunton's valuable work, and 
 the foundation it has laid for future advantages more than 
 counterbalances the trifling expence it occafioned to the Eafh 
 India Company, which did not exceed two per cent, on the 
 annual amount of their trade from England to Canton. Thofe 
 who had formed immoderate expedations muft have little un- 
 derftood the laws and cuftoms of China, which admit not the 
 fyflem of mutual intercourfe between diftant nations, by means 
 of embalFadors or refident minifters at the refpedlive courts. 
 Their cuftom is to receive embafladors with refpedt and hofpi- 
 tality; to confider them as vifitors to the Emperor, and to 
 entertain them accordingly as his particular guefts, from the 
 moment they enter the country till they return to the bounda- 
 ries of his empire. This being neceflarily attended with an 
 enormous expence *, the court of ceremonies has prefcribed 
 forty days for the refidence of foreign embaffadors, either in 
 the capital, or wherever the court may happen to be ; though on 
 particular occafions, or by accident, the term may fometimes 
 be extended to double that time. 
 
 *rhus by confulting the accounts of the different European 
 fimbaffies that have been fent to China in the two lafl: ccntu- 
 
 * The expence occafioned to the court of China by the Britilh emba(ry, will be, 
 ilated ill a fubfequent chapter. 
 
 ries,
 
 TRAVELS INjCHINA. 23 
 
 ries, It will be found that the refidence of none of them was 
 extended to twice the term fixed by the court of ceremonies, 
 and two of them did not remain the period allowed. 
 
 The firfl: embafly fent by the Dutch arrived in Pekin, 
 the 17th July 1656, and departed the i6th Odlober following, 
 having remained ninety-one days. 
 
 The fecond Dutch embafTy arrived in Pekin the 20th June 
 1667, and departed the jth Auguft, having refided forty- fix 
 days. 
 
 The firft RuiTian embafTy arrived at the capital on the 5th 
 November 1692, and left it on the 17th February 1693, having 
 remained there one hundred and fix days. 
 
 The fecond Ruffian embafTy arrived at Pekin on the 18th 
 November 1720, and did not leave it till the 2d March 172X, 
 being one hundred and fourteen days. 
 
 Thefe two embaffies were immediately conneded with the 
 commercial concerns of the two nations, which were then 
 tranfaded in the capital of China, but now confined to the ad- 
 joining frontiers. 
 
 The Pope's embafTy arrived in Pekin on the 15th December 
 1720, and departed the 24th March 1721, being ninety-nine 
 days. 
 
 The
 
 24 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The Portugueze embafly entered Pekin the ift May 1753, 
 and left it the 8th June following, being only thirty-nine days. 
 
 The Britifli embafly arrived in Pekin the 21ft Auguft 1793, 
 and departed the 7th Odober, being forty-feven days. 
 
 The third Dutch embaflTy entered the capital the loth 
 January 1795, and left it the 15th February, being thirty-fix 
 days. 
 
 On the whole, then, it may be concluded, that neither Mon- 
 fieur Grammont, nor they who conceived that an unconditional 
 and fervile compliance, on the part of the Britifli Embaffador, 
 would have been productive of more favourable refults, were 
 right in their conjedures. On the contrary, it may, perhaps, 
 be rather laid down as a certain confequence, that a tone of 
 fubmiffion, and a tame and paffive obedience to the degrading 
 demands of this haughty court, ferve only to feed its pride, and 
 add to the abfurd notions of its own vaft importance.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 25 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Occurrences and Obfervations in the Navigation of tlie Yellow 
 Sea, and the Paflage up the Pei-ho, or White River. 
 
 Different Tejlimontes that have been given of the Chitiefe CharaEfer. — Compari/on of 
 China with Europe in the Jixteenth Century. — Motives of the Mijftonaries in their 
 Writings.— Britifh Emboffy pcffes the Streights of Formofa. — Appearance of a 
 
 Ta-fun>^ Chufan Iflands. — hijlance of Chinefe Amplification.— Various Chinefe 
 
 Vejfels. — Syfiem of their Navigation — tJ?eir Compafs, probably of Scythian Origin 
 — foreign Voyages of. — Ttacis of Chinefe in America — in an IJlattd of the 
 Tartarian Sea— in the Peifun Gulph— traded probably as, far as Madagafcar.—' 
 Commerce of the Tyrians. — Reafons for conjeEluring that the Hottentots may 
 have derived their Origin from China. — Portrait of a Chinefe compared with that 
 cf a Hottentot. — Malays of the fame defcent as the Chinefe.—-Curious coincidences 
 in the Ciifioms of thefe and the Siimatrans. — Cingalefe of Chinefe Origin. — One 
 tf the Brigs difpatched to Chu-fan for Pikls. — Rapid Currents among the 
 Iflands. — Vifit to the Governor. — Difficulties in procuring Pilots. — Arbitrary Pro- 
 ceeding of the Governor. — Pilots puzzled with our Con-pafs— Ignorance of — Arrive 
 in the Gulph of Pe-tehe-lee. — Vifit of two Officers from Court, and their Prefent 
 •—enter the Pei-ho, and embark in convenient Tachts. — Accommodating Condufl 
 of the two Officers. — Profufion of Proviftons. — Appearance of the Country — of the 
 People. — Drefs of the Women. — Remarks on their fmall Feet. — Chinefe an un- 
 cleanly and frowzy People. — Immenfe Crowds of People and River Craft at Tien- 
 Sing. — Decent and prepoffeffing Conduct of the Multitude. — Mufical Air fung by 
 
 the Rowers of the Tachts. — Favourable Traits in the Chinefe Character Face 
 
 and ProduHsof the Country. — Multitudes of Ptople Inhabitants of the Water. -^ 
 Another Injlance of arbitrary Power. — Difembark at Tong Tchoo, and are lodged 
 in a Temple. 
 
 "If any man Ihould make a coUedion of all the inventions, 
 *' and all the produdtions, that every nation, which now Is, 
 
 E "Of
 
 j6 travels in china. 
 
 " or ever has been, upon the face of the globe, the whole 
 *' would fall far fliort, either as to number or quality, of what- 
 « is to be met with in China." Thefe, or fomething funilar,, 
 are the words of the learned Ifaac Voffius. 
 
 The teftimony given by the celebrated authors of the Ency^ 
 clopedie des Conno'tffances huma'ines is almoft equally ftrong: 
 " The Chinefe who, by common confent, are fuperior to all 
 ♦* the Afiatic nations, in antiquity, in genius, in the progrefs 
 " of the fciences, in wifdom, in government, and in true phi- 
 " loiophy ; may, moreover, in the opinion of fome authors, 
 " enter the lifts, on all thefe points, with the moft enlightened 
 " nations of Europe." 
 
 How flattering, then, and gratifying muft it have been to 
 the feelings of thofe few favoured perfons, who had the good 
 fortune to be admitted into the fuite of the Britifh Embaflador, 
 then preparing to proceed to the court of that Sovereign who 
 held the governmeat of fuch an extraordinary nation ; how 
 greatly muft; they have enjoyed the profpeiS of experiencing, 
 in their own perfons, all that was virtuous, and powerful, and 
 grand, and magnificent, concentrated in one point — in the city 
 of Pekin ! 
 
 And if any doubts might have arifen, onconfideration that nei- 
 ther the learned Canon of Windfor, nor the celebrated Authors 
 of the Encyclopedie, were ever in China ; that the firft was won- 
 derfully given to the marvellous, and the latter had no other 
 authorities, than thefe of the Jefuits, and other rniflionaries for 
 
 propagating
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 27 
 
 propagating the Chriftian faith, yet fuch doubts were more 
 inclined to yield to the favourable fide, as being fupported by 
 the almoft unanimous concurrence of a multitude of teftimonies, 
 contained in the relations that have, at various times, been pub- 
 lifhed not only by the miffionaries, but alfo by fome other tra- 
 vellers. 
 
 The late Sir William Jones, indeed, who defervedly took 
 the lead iu oriental literature, had obferved, in fpeaklng of the 
 Chinefe, that " By fome they have been extolled as the oldeft 
 " and wifeft, as the moft learned, and mofl: ingenious, of na- 
 " tions ; whiift others have derided their pretenfions to anti- 
 " qulty, condemned their government as abominable, and 
 " arraigned their manners as inhuman ; without allowing 
 ** them an element of fcience, or a fmgle art, for which 
 " they have not been indebted to fome more ancient and more 
 " civilized race of men." 
 
 It is true, alfo, the refearches of Mr. Pauw, the fagacious 
 philofopher of Berlin, and the narrative of the elegant and 
 impreflive writer of Lord Anfon's Voyage, convey to the 
 reader's mind no very favourable ideas of the Chinefe charac- 
 ter ; yet, as the enquiries of the one were entered upon in a 
 fpirit of controverfy, and directed to one fmgle point, and the 
 author, as juftly has been obferved of him, delights fometimes to 
 take a fwim againft the flream, many dedudlions were clearly to 
 be made from the conclufions of Mr. Pauw. And with regard 
 to the Narrative of Mr. Robins, it may be remarked that, to 
 decide upon the general charaifler of the Chinefe, from the 
 dealings Lord Anfon had with them in the port of Canton, 
 
 E 2 would
 
 28 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 would be as unfair, as it would be thought prefumptuous in a 
 foreigner to draw the charafter of our own nation from- a 
 cafual vilit to Falmouth, Killybeggs, or Aberdeen. The fame 
 remark will apply to the accounts given of this nation by 
 Torecn, Ofbeck, Sonnerat, and fome others, who have vifited 
 Canton in trading (hips, none of whom were five hundred 
 yards beyond the limits of the European factories. 
 
 It would alfo have been highly illiberal to fuppofe, that a 
 body of men, remarkable, as the early Jefuit miffionaries were 
 thought to be, for probity, talent, and difintereftednefs, fliould 
 ftudioufly fit down to compofe fabrications for the mere pur- 
 pofe of deceiving the world. Even Voltaire, who had little 
 partiality for the facerdotal charatfler, is willing to admit, that 
 their relations ought to be confidered as the produdions of the 
 moft intelligent travellers that have extended and embelliflied 
 the fields of Science and Philofophy. This remark, with pro- 
 per allowances being made for the age in which they were 
 written, may perhaps be applied to the narratives of the early 
 miflions to China, though not exactly to fome others of a more 
 modern date. All the praifes beftowed by the former on this 
 nation, the latter, it would feem, have, injudicioufly, confidered 
 themfelves bound to juftify ; without taking into account the 
 progreflive improvements of Europe within the laft century 
 and a half. 
 
 That China was civilized to a certain degree before moft of 
 the nations of Europe, not even Greece excepted, is a fadl that 
 will not admit of a doubt ; but that it has continued to im- 
 
 3 prove,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 39 
 
 prove, fo as ftill to vie with many of the prefent European 
 ftates, as the miflionaries would have it fuppofed, is not by any 
 means fo clear. From the middle to the end of the fixteenth 
 century, compared with Europe in general, it had greatly the 
 fuperiorlty, if not in fcience, at leaft in arts and manufa£tures, 
 in the conveniencies and the luxuries of life. The Chinefe 
 were, at that period, pretty much in the fame ilate in wliich 
 they ftill are ; and in which they are likely to continue. When 
 the firft Europeans vifited China, they were aftonifhed to find 
 an univerfal toleration of religious opinions ; to obferve Lamas 
 and Tao-tzeSy Jeivs^ Perfees, and Mahomcdans^ living quietly 
 together, and each following his own creed without moleftation ; 
 ■whilft moft of the countries in Europe were, at that time, torn 
 in pieces by religious fchlfms ; and man was labouring with 
 enthufiaftic fury to deftroy his fellow-creatures, in honour of 
 his Creator, for a flight difference of opinion in matters of no 
 real importance, or even for a different acceptation of a word. 
 In China, every one was allowed to think as he pleafed, and to 
 chufe his own religion. The horrid maflacre of the proteftants 
 in Paris had terrified all Europe. China knew nothing of in- 
 ternal commotions, but fuch as were fometimes occafioned by 
 a partial fcarcity of grain. The art of improving vegetables 
 by particular modes of culture, was juft beginning to be known 
 in Europe. All China, at that time, was comparatively a gar- 
 den. When the Ring of France Introduced the luxury of filk 
 {lockings, which, about eighteen years afterwards, was adopted 
 by Elizabeth of England, the peafantry of the middle provinces 
 of China were clothed in filks from head to foot. At this 
 period, few or none of the little elegancies or conveniencies of 
 
 life
 
 'yt> TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 life were known in Europe ; the ladies' toilet had few eflences 
 to gratify the fenfe of fmell, or to beautify, for a time, the 
 complexion ; the fciflars, needles, pen-knives, and other little 
 appendages, were then unknown ; and rude and ill-polilhed 
 fkewers ufurped the place of pins. In China, the ladies had 
 their needlework, their paint-boxes, their trinkets of ivory, of 
 filver in fillagree, of mother-pearl, and of tortoife-fhell. Even 
 the calendar, at this time fo defedive in Europe, that Pope 
 Gregory was urged to the bold undertaking of leaping over, or 
 annihilating, ten days, was found to be, in China, a national 
 concern, and the particular care of government. Decimal 
 arithmetic, a new and ufeful difcovery of the feventcenth cen- 
 tury in Europe, was the only fyftem of arithmetic in ufe in 
 China. In a word, when the nobility of England v^ere fleep- 
 ing on ftraw, a peafant of China had his mat and his pillow ; 
 and the man in office enjoyed his filken mattrefs. One cannot, 
 therefore, be furprized if the impreffions made upon thefe 
 holy men were powerfully felt, or if their defcriptions fhould 
 feem to incline a little towards the marvellous. Nor may per- 
 haps their relations be found to be much embellifhed, on a fair 
 comparifon of the ftate of China with that of Europe in gene- 
 ral, from the year 1560 to the clofe of the fame century. 
 
 Thefe religious men, however, might have had their motives 
 for fetting this wonderful people in the faireft point of view. 
 The more powerful and magnificent, the more learned and 
 refined they reprefented this nation to be, the greater would 
 be their triumph in the event of their efFeding a change of the 
 national faith. It may a!fo have occurred to them, that com- 
 mon
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 31 
 
 mon prudence required they fhould fpeak favourably, at leafl:, 
 of a nation under whofe power and prote£tion they had volun- 
 tarily placed themfelves for life. There is every reafon to fup- 
 pofe, that in general they mean to tell the truth, but by fuppref- 
 fing feme part of it, or by telling it in fuch a manner as if they 
 expeded it would one day get back to China in the language of 
 that country, their accounts often appear to be contradidory in 
 themfelves. In the fame breath that they extol the wonderful 
 ftrength of filial piety, they fpeak of the common pradices of 
 expofing infants ; the ftri£t morality and ceremonious condudl 
 of the people are followed by a lift of the moft grofs debauch- 
 eries ; the virtues and the phllofophy of the learned are ex- 
 plained by their ignorance and their vices ; if in one page they 
 fpeak of the exceffive fertility of the country, and the amazing 
 extenfion of agriculture, in the next, thoufands are feen perifh- 
 ing by want ; and whilft they extol with admiration the pro- 
 grefs they have made in the arts and fciences, they plainly in- 
 form us that without the aid of foreigners they can neither caft 
 a cannon, nor calculate an eclipfe. 
 
 Upon the whole, hoivever, the Britifh embaffy left England 
 under a favourable impreflion of the people it Vv-as about to vifit. 
 Whether the expeftations of all thofe who compofed it, inde- 
 pendent of any political confideratlon, were realized, or ended 
 in difappointment, may partly be colleded from the following 
 pages. The opinions they contain are drawn from fuch inci- 
 dents and anecdotes as occurred in the courfe of an eight months' 
 vifit and from fuch as feemed beft calculated to illuftrate the 
 condition of the people, the national charaftcr, and the nature 
 
 of
 
 32 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of the government. A ihort rcfidence in the imperial palace of 
 Yuen-min-yuen, a greater ihare of liberty than is ufually per- 
 mitted to ftrangers in this country, with the afTiftance of fome 
 little knowledge of the language, afforded me the means of col- 
 Icding the fa£ts and obfervations which I Jiow lay before the 
 public ; and in the relation of which I have endeavoured to ad- 
 here to that excellent rule of our immortal poet, 
 
 " Notliing extenuate, * 
 
 " Nor fet down aught in malice." 
 
 And as the qualities of good and evil, excellence and mediocrity, 
 in any nation, can only be fairly eftimated by a comparifon with 
 thofe of the fame kind in others, wherever a fimilitude or a cou- 
 traft in the Chinefe charadter or cuftoms with thofe of any other 
 people ancient or modern occurred to my recolledion, I have 
 confidercd it as not wholly uninterefting to note the relation or 
 difagrecment. 
 
 The difpatches from China, received by the Britifli Embaffa- 
 dor on his arrival at Batavia, communicated the agreeable intel- 
 ligence that his Imperial Majefty had been pleafed, by a public 
 edid, not only to declare his entire fatisfadion with the intended 
 embafly,but that he had likewife iffued ftrid orders to the com- 
 manding officers of the fevcral ports along the coaft of the Yel- 
 low Sea, to be particularly careful that Pilots fhould be ready, 
 at a moment's notice, to condud the Englifh fquadron to Tieri- 
 fuig^ the neareft port to the capital, or to any other which 
 might be confidered as more convenient and fuitable for the 
 Britifli fliips. 
 
 By
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 33 
 
 By this communication a point of fome difficulty was now con- 
 fsdered to be removed. It was deemed a defireable circumftance 
 to be furnifhed with the means of proceeding diredly to Pekin 
 through the Yellow Sea, and thus to avoid any intercourfewith the 
 port of Canton ; as it was well known the principal officers of the 
 government there were prepared to throw every obftacle in the 
 way of the embaffy, and if not effedually to prevent, at lead to 
 countera^l, any reprefentations that might be made at the impe- 
 rial court, with regard to the abufes that exift in the adminiftra- 
 tion of the public affiiirs at that place, and more efpecially to the 
 exadlions and impofitions to which the commercial eftablifh- 
 ments are liable of the different nations whofe fubjeds have efta- 
 blifhed factories in this fouthern emporium of China. It could 
 not be fiippofed, indeed, that their endeavours would be lefs ex- 
 erted, in this particular inftance, than on all former occafions of 
 a fimilar nature. 
 
 The navigation of the Yellow Sea, as yet entirely unknown 
 to any European nation, was confidered as a fubje£l of fome 
 importance, from the information it would afford the means of- 
 fupplying, and which, on any future occafion, might not only 
 leffen the dangers of an unknown paflage, but prevent alfo much 
 delay by fuperfeding the ncceffity of running into different ports 
 in fearch of Chinefe Pilots, whom, by experience, we afterwards 
 found to be more dangerous than ufeful. 
 
 We pafled through the ftreight of Formofa without feeing 
 any part of the main land of China, or of the ifland from 
 whence the ftreight derives its name, except a high point 
 
 F towards
 
 34 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 towards the northern extremity. The weather, indeed, during- 
 three fucceflive days, the 25th, 26th, and 27th July was fo 
 dark and gloomy, that the eye could fcarcely difcern the largeft 
 objeds at the diftance of a mile, yet the thermometer was from. 
 80° to 83° the greater part of thefe days. A heavy and almoft in- 
 ceffant fall of rain was accompanied with violent fqualls of wind, 
 and frequent burfts of thunder and flafhes of lightning ; which,, 
 with the crofs and confufed fwell in the lea, made the paflage not 
 only uncomfortably irkfome, but alfo extremely dangerous, on 
 account of the many iflands interfperfed in almoft every part 
 of the ftrait. 
 
 On the evening of the 25th the fun fet in a bank ^f fog, 
 which made the whole weftern fide of the horizon look 
 like a blaze of fire, and the barometer was obferved to have 
 fallen near one third of an inch, which, in thefe latitudes- 
 and at fea, is confidered as a certain indication of a change of 
 weather. There were on board fome Chinefe fifherraen who 
 had been driven out to fea in one of the Eaft India company's 
 Ihips, which we met with in the ftralts of Sunda. Thefe men 
 aflured us that the appearance of the heavens prognofticated one 
 of thofe tremendous gales of wind which are well known to 
 Europeans by the name of Tty-phoon and which fome ingenious 
 and learned men have fuppofed to be the fame as the Typhon 
 of the Egyptians or Turpwv of the Greeks. The Chinefe, how- 
 ever have made ufe of no mythological allufion in naming this- 
 hurricanc. They call it Ta-fung v?hich literally fignifies a 
 a great wind. The wind was certainly high the whole of the 
 night and the following day, the thunder and lightning dread- 
 ful,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 35 
 
 ful, and the variable fqualls and rain frequent and heavy j the 
 ■depth of the fea from 25 to 30 fathoms. 
 
 The charts, however, of this pafTage into the Yellow Sea, 
 conftrudled by Europeans when the Chinefe permitted foreign, 
 nations to trade to Cbu-fan^ are confidered as fufficlently exa(3: 
 for fkilful navigators to avoid the dangerous rocks and iflands. 
 By the help of thefe charts our fquadron ventured to ftand 
 through the ftlll more intricate and narrow paflages of the Chu- 
 fan Archipelago, where, in the contracted fpace of about eight 
 hundred fquare leagues, the furface of the fea is ftudded with a 
 •clufter, confiding, nearly, of four hundred diftindt iflands. 
 
 Thefe iflands appeared to us, in failing among them, to be 
 mofl:ly uninhabited, extremely barren of trees or flirubs, and 
 many of them deftitute even of herbage, or verdure of any kind. 
 In fome of the creeks we perceived a number of boats and other 
 fmall craft, at the upper ends of which were villages compofed 
 of mean looking huts, the dwellings mofl: probably of fifhermen, 
 as there was no appearance of cultivated ground near them to 
 furnifti their inhabitants with the means of fubfiftence. 
 
 The fquadron having dropped anchor, we landed on one of 
 the largeft of thefe iflands ; and walked a very confiderable dif- 
 tance before we faw a human being. At length, in defcending a 
 valley, in the bottom of which was a fmall village, we fell in 
 with a young peafant, whom with fome dlfliculty, by means of 
 an interpreter, we engaged in converfation. Embarrafl!ed in thus 
 fuddenly meeting with ftrangers, fo different from his own 
 
 F 2 coun-
 
 26 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 countrymen, in drefs, in features, and complexion, his timidity 
 miglit ahnoH. be faid to afi'ume the appearance of terror. He foon, 
 however, gained confidence, and became communicative. He 
 aflured us that the ifland on which we were, and of which he was a 
 native, was the beft in the whole groupe, and the moft populous, 
 except that of Chu-fim ; the number of its inhabitants being ten 
 thoufand fouls. It was difcovered,, however, before we had 
 been long in the country, that when a Chinefe made ufe of the 
 monofyllable van^ which in his language fignifies ten thoufand, 
 he was not to be underftood as fpeaking of a determinate or 
 precife number, but only as making ufe of a term that implied 
 amplification. A ftate criminal, for example, is generally con- 
 demned to undergo the punilhment of being cut into ten thou- 
 fand pieces ; the great wall of China is called the van-lee-tchin^ 
 or wall of ten thoufand lee^ or three, thoufand Englifli miles, a 
 length juft double to that which the moft authentic accounts 
 have given of it. But when he means to inform any one that 
 the emperor has ten thoufand large vefTels, for the purpofe of 
 colleding taxes paid in kind, on the grand canal, inftead of the 
 monofyllable van he invariably makes ufe of the exprefllon nine 
 thoufand nine hundred and ninety-nine, as conveying a fixed 
 and definite number, and, in this cafe, he will be underftood 
 to fignify literally ten thoufand. In this manner, I fuppofe, 
 we were to underftand the population of the ifland Lo-ang. 
 
 At the fight of our large (hips, fo different in their appear- 
 ance from any of thofe belonging to the Chinefe, a vaft 
 number of boats, iffuing from every creek and cove, prefently 
 crowded together, in fuch a manner, and with fo little manage- 
 ment.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 37 
 
 ment, as to render it difficult to pafs through without danger 
 of overfetting or finking fome of them; a danger, however, 
 to which they feemed quite infenfible. Veflels of a larger 
 defcription, and various in the fliape of their hulls and rigging, 
 from twenty tons burden and upwards, to about two hundred 
 tons, were obferved in confiderable numbers, failing along the 
 coaft of the continent, laden generally with fmall timber, 
 which was piled to fuch a height upon their decks, that no 
 extraordinary force of wind would feem to be required to 
 overturn them. Beams of wood, and other pieces that were 
 too long to be received upon the deck of a fingle fhip, were 
 laid acrofs the decks of two veflels laflied together. We faw 
 at leaft a hundred couple thus laden in one fleet, keeping clofc 
 in with the coaft, in order to be ready, in cafe of bad weather, 
 to put into the neareft port, being ill calculated to refift a ftorm 
 at fea. The fhips indeed that are deftined for longer voyages 
 appear, from their fingular conftrudtion, to be very unfit to 
 contend with the tempeftuous feas of China. The general 
 form of the hull, or body of the fhip, above water, is that of 
 the moon when about four days old. The bow, or forepart, is 
 not rounded as in fhips of Europe, but is a fquare flat furface, 
 the fame as the ftern ; without any projecting piece of wood, 
 ufually known by the name of cutwater, and without arty keel. 
 On each fide of the bow a large circular eye is painted, in imi- 
 tation, I fuppofe, of that of a fi{h. The two ends of the fhip 
 rife to a prodigious height above the deck. Some carry two, 
 fome three, and others four mafts. Each of thefe confifts of 
 a fingle piece of wood, and confequently not capable of being 
 occafionally reduced in length, as thofe of European fhips. 
 
 The 
 
 2H:j2GG
 
 38 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The diameter of the malnmaft of one of the larger kind of 
 Chinefe veOels, fuch as trade to Batavia, is not lefs than that of 
 an Englifh man of war of fixty-four guns. And it is fixed 
 in a bed of maffive timber laid acrofs the deck. On each 
 maft is a fmgle fail of matting, made from the fibres of 
 the bamboo, and ftrctched by means of poles of that reed, 
 running acrofs, at the diftance of about two feet from each other. 
 Thefe fails are frequently made to furl and unfurl like a fan. 
 When well hoifted up and braced aim oft fore and aft, or 
 parallel with the fides of the fliip, a Chinefe veffel will fail 
 within three and a half, or four points of the wind ; but they 
 lofe all this advantage over fhips of Europe by their drifting to 
 leeward, in confequence of the round and clumfy fhape of 
 the bottom, and their want of keel. The rudder is fo placed, 
 in a large opening of the ftern, that it can occafionally be 
 taken up, which is generally done on approaching fands and 
 ihallows. 
 
 The Chinefe, in fact, are equally unfkilled in naval archi- 
 tefture, as in the art of navigation. They keep no reckoning 
 at fea, nor pofTefs the leaft idea of drawing imaginary lines 
 upon the furface of the globe, by the help of which the pofi- 
 tion of any particular fpot may be affigned ; in other words, 
 they have no means whatfoever of afcertaining the latitude or 
 the longitude of any place, either by eftimation from the diftance 
 failed, or by obfervation of the heavenly bodies, with inftru- 
 ments for that purpofe. Yet they pretend to fay, that maay 
 £)f their early navigators made long voyages, in which they 
 
 were
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 39 
 
 were guided by charts of the route, fometiraes drawn on paper, 
 and fometimes on the convex furface of large gourds or 
 pumpkins. From this circumftance, fome of the Jcfuits have 
 inferred, that fuch charts muft have been more correct than 
 thofe on flat furfaces. If, indeed, the portion of the convex 
 furface, employed for the purpofe, vs-as the fcgment of a fphere, 
 and occupied a fpace having a comparative relation to that 
 part of the furface of the earth failed over, the inference might 
 be allowable ; hut this would be to fuppofe a degree of know- 
 ledge to which, it does not appear, the Chinefe had at any time 
 attained, it being among them, in every period of their hiftory, 
 an univerfally received opinion, that the earth is a fquare, and 
 that the kingdom of China is placed in the very center of its- 
 flat furface. 
 
 The prefent fyftem of Chinefe navigation is to keep as near 
 the fhore as poflible ; and never to lofe fight of land, unlefs 
 in voyages that abfolutely require it ; fuch as to Japan, Batavia, 
 and Cochin-China. Knowing the bearing, or direction of the 
 port intended to be made, let the wind be fair or foul, they 
 endeavour, as nearly as poflible, to keep the head of the fhip 
 always pointing towards the port by means of the compafs. 
 This inftrument, as ufed in China, has every appearance of 
 originality. The natives know nothing, from hiftory or tra- 
 dition, of its firft introdu£tion or difcovery ; and the ufe of the 
 magnet, for indicating the poles of the earth, can be traced, 
 from their records, to a period of time when the greateft part 
 of Europe was in a ftate of barbarifm. It has been conjedured, 
 indeed, that the ufe of the magnetic needle, in Europe, was 
 firft brought from China by the famous traveller Mario Polo 
 
 the
 
 40 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the Venetian. Its appearance immediately after his death, or, 
 according to fome, while he was yet Hving, but at all events, in 
 his own country, renders fuch a conje£ture extremely probable. 
 The embaffies in which he was employed by Kublai-Khan, and 
 the long voyages he performed by fea, could fcarcely have been 
 pradlicable without the aid of the compafs. Be this as it may, the 
 Chincfe were, without doubt, well acquainted with this inftru- 
 ment long before the thirteenth century. It is recorded in their 
 beft authenticated annals merely as a fa£t, and not as any ex- 
 traordinary circumftance, that the Emperor Chung-ko prefented 
 an embaifador of Cochin-China, who had loft his way in coming 
 by fea, with a Ting-Jtan-tchin " a needle pointing out the fouth," 
 the name which it ftill retains. Even this idea of the feat of 
 magnetic influence, together with the conflrudtion of the com- 
 pafs-box, the divifion of the card into eight principal points, and 
 each of thefe again fubdivided into three, the manner of fuf- 
 pending the needle, and its diminutive fize, feldom exceeding 
 in length three quarters of an inch, are all of them ftrong 
 prefumptions of its being an original, and not a borrowed 
 invention. 
 
 By fome, indeed, it has been conjedlured, that the Scythians, 
 in the northern regions of Afia, were acquainted with the 
 polarity of the magnet, in ages antecedent to all hiftory, and that 
 the virtue of this fofTil was intended to be meant by the flying 
 arrow, prefented to Abaris by Apollo, about the time of the 
 Trojan war, with the help of which he could tranfport him- 
 felf wherever he pleafed.. The abundance of iron ores, and 
 perhaps of native iron, in every part of Tartary, and the very 
 
 3 early
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 4» 
 
 early period of time in which the natives were acquainted with 
 the procefs of fmelting thefe ores, render the idea not impro- 
 bable, of the northern nations of Europe, and Afia, (or the Scy- 
 thians,) being firfl: acquainted with the polarity of the magnet. 
 
 Yet even with the affiftance of the compafs, it is 
 furprizing how the clumfy and ill-conftru£ted velfcls of the 
 Chinefe can perform fo long and dangerous a voyage as that to 
 Batavia. For, befides being thrown out of their courfe by 
 every contrary wind, their whole confl;ru£tion, and particularly 
 the vaft height of their upper works above the water, feems 
 little adapted to oppofe thofe violent tempefts that prevail on 
 the China feas, known, as we have already obferved, by the 
 name of Ta-fung. Thefe hurricanes foraetimes blow with 
 fuch ftrength that, according to the affertion of an experienced 
 and Intelligent commander of one of the Eaft India Company's 
 fhips, " Were it poffible to blow ten thoufand trumpets, and 
 " beat as many drums, on the forecaftle of an Indlaman, in the 
 " height of a Ta-fung, neither the found of the one nor the 
 " other would be heard by a perfon on the quarter-deck of the 
 *' fame fhip." In fadt, vaft numbers of Chinefe veflels are 
 loft in thefe heavy gales of wind ; and ten or twelve thoufand 
 fubje£ts from the port of Canton alone are reckoned to perifh 
 annually by fhipwreck. 
 
 When a fhip leaves this port on a foreign voyage, it is con- 
 fidered as an equal chance that (he will never return ; and when 
 the event proves favourable, a general rejoicing takes place 
 among the friends of all thofe who had embarked in the 
 
 G hazardous
 
 41 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 hazardous enterprize. Some of thefe fhips are not lefs than a 
 thouland tons burden, and contain half that number of fouls, 
 bcfules the paffcngers that leave their country, in the hope of 
 making their fortunes in Batavia and Manilla. A fhip is fel- 
 dom the concern of one man. Sometimes forty or fifty, or 
 even a hundred different merchants purchafe a veffel, and 
 divide her into as many compartments as there are partners, 
 fo that each knows his own particular place in the fhip, which 
 he is at liberty to fit up and to fecure as he pleafes. He fhips. 
 his goods, and accompanies them in perfon, or fends his fon^ 
 or a near relation, for it rarely happens that they will truft 
 each other with property, where no family connexion exifls* 
 Each fleeping-place is juft the length and breadth of a man, 
 and contains only a fmall mat, fpread on the floor, and a pil- 
 low. Behind the compafs is generally placed a fmall temple,, 
 with an altar, on which is continually kept burning a fpiral 
 taper cornpofed of wax, tallow and fandal-wood duft. This 
 holy flame anfwers a double purpofe ; for while the burning 
 of it fulfils an a(St of piety, its twelve equal divifions ferve 
 to mcafure the twelve portions of time, which make up a 
 complete day. It fhould feem that the fuperftitious notions 
 inculcated in the people have led them to fuppofe, that fome 
 particular influence refides in the compafs ; for, on every ap- 
 pearance of a change in the weather, they burn incenfe before 
 the magnetic needle. 
 
 The lofTes occafioned among the fhips that were employed 
 to tranfport the taxes paid in kind from the ports of the 
 foutbern and middle provinces to the northern capital, were fo 
 
 1 great*
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 43 
 
 great, at the time of the Tartar Conqueft, In the thirteenth 
 century, that the fucceflbrs of Gengis-Khan were induced to 
 open a diredl communication between the two extremes of the 
 empire, by means of the rivers and canals ; an undertaking 
 that refledls the hlgheft credit on the Mongul Tartars, and 
 which cannot fail to be regarded with admiration, as long as it 
 fhall continue to exlft. The Chinefe, however, fay, that the 
 Tartars only repaired the old works that were fallen into 
 decay. 
 
 Six centuries previous to this period, or about the feventh 
 century of the Chriftian sra, the Chinefe merchants, according 
 to the opinion of the learned and ingenious Mr. de Guignes 
 carried on a trade to the weft coaft of North America. That, 
 at this time, the promontory of Kamfkatka was known to 
 them under the name of Ta-Shan^ many of their books of 
 travels fufficlently teftify ; but their journles thither were gene- 
 rally made by land. One of the miffionaries aflured me that, 
 in a colle£lion of travels to Kamfkatka, by various Chinefe, 
 the names of the feveral Tartar tribes, their manners, cuftoras, 
 and charaders, the geographical defcrlptlons of lakes, rivers, 
 and mountains, were too clearly and diftindly noted to be mlf- 
 taken. It is, however, extremely probable that,- as fur^ and 
 peltry were always in great demand, they might alfo have fome 
 communication with the faid promontory from the ifles of 
 JefTo, to which they were known to trade with their fhipping ; 
 and which are only a very fliort diftance from it. Mr. de 
 Guignes, in fupport of bis opinion, quotes the journal of a 
 Bonze, as the priefts of Fo have ufually been called, who 
 
 G 2 failed
 
 44 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 failed eaftward from Kamfkatka to fuch a diftance as, in his 
 mind, puts it beyond a doubt that the country he arrived at 
 was no other than the coaft of California. The Spanifh writers, 
 indeed, of the early voyages to this country, make mention of 
 various wrecks of Chinefe veflels being found in different parts 
 of the weftern coaft of the New Continent ; and they obferve 
 that the natives here were, invariably, more civilized than in 
 the interior and eaftern parts of America. 
 
 Even thofe on the eaftern coaft of South America have a 
 very ftrong refemblance to the Chinefe in their perfons, though 
 not in their temperament and manners. The Viceroy of the 
 Brazils retains a dozen of thefe people in his fervice, as rowers 
 of his barge, with the ufe of which he one day honoured us, 
 to make the tour of the grand harbour of Rio de Janeiro. 
 We obferved the Tartar or Chinefe features, particularly the 
 eye, ftrongly marked in the countenances of thefe Indians ; the 
 copper tinge was rather deeper than the darkeft of the Chinefe ; 
 but their beards being moftly confined to the upper lip and 
 the point of the chin, together with their ftrong black hair, 
 bore a very near refemblance. 
 
 The ifland of Tcho-ka, or Saghahen, in the Tartarian fea, 
 oppofite the mouth of the Amour, has evidently been peopled 
 by the Chinefe. When Monfieur la Peroufe vifited this ifland, 
 he found the inhabitants clothed in blue nankin, and " the 
 *' form of their drefs differed but little from that of the 
 " Chinefe ; their pipes were Chinefe, and of Toftanague ; they 
 " had long nails ; and they faluted by kneeling and proftration, 
 
 " like
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 45 
 
 *' like the Chlnefe. If," continues the navigator, " they have a 
 " common origin with the Tartars and Chinefe their fepa- 
 " ration from thefe nations muft be of very ancient date, for 
 " they have no refemblance to them in perfon, and little in man- 
 " ners." Yet from his own account it appears that both their 
 manners and cuftoms have a very clofe refemblance.' 
 
 The Chinefe at one period carried on a very confiderable 
 commerce with Buflbra and other fea-ports in the Perfian 
 gulph, particularly Siraff, near vyhich fome fmall iflands, as 
 well as feveral remarkable points and headlands of the coaft, 
 ftill bear Chinefe names. In fome of the voyages it is obferved 
 that a Colony of Chinefe had apparently fettled in the kingdom 
 of Soffala, the defcendants of whom were, in the time of the 
 writers, eafily diftinguifhed from the other natives, by the dif- 
 ference of their colour and their features. The early Portu- 
 guefe navigators alfo obferve that on the ifland St. Laurence 
 or Madagafcar they met with people that refembled the Chi- 
 nefe. That the celebrated traveller Marco Polo vifited Mada- 
 gafcar in a Chinefe veflel there can be little doubt, unlefs indeed, 
 like his own countrymen, we chufe rather to rejedl the proba- 
 ble parts of his narrative as fabulous, and to believe the miracles 
 performed by the Neftorian Chriftians in Armenia as the only 
 truths in his book. 
 
 It is impoffible not to confider the notices given by this early 
 traveller as curious, interefting and valuable ; and, as far as 
 they regard the empire of China, they bear internal evidence of 
 being generally corred. He failed from China in a fleet con- 
 
 fifting
 
 46 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fiftlng of fourteen fhips, each carrying four mafts, and having 
 their holds partitioned into feparate chambers, fome containing 
 thirteen diftind compartments. This is the exadl number of 
 divifions into which all the holds of thofe fea-faring veflels 
 were partitioned that tranfported the prefents and baggage from 
 our own fhips in the gulph of Pe-tche-lee into the river Pei-ho ; 
 and we obferved many hundreds of a ftill larger defcription, that 
 arc employed in foreign voyages, all carrying/o//r mafts; fuch vef- 
 fels, our Tailors who are remarkable for metamorphofing foreign 
 names, ufually caW jfujiks, from Tchuan which fignifies a fliip ; the 
 Tfo?ig-too or viceroy of a province is called by them yohn Tuck, 
 
 Not only the form of the fhips, but the circumftances of the 
 voyage taken notice of by this ancient navigator ftamp his rela- 
 tion with authenticity. The fi:rong current between Madagaf- 
 car and Zanzebar rendering it next to impofTible for fhips to get 
 back to the northward ; the black natives on that coaft, the 
 prodiiQs of the country which he enumerates ; the true defcrip- 
 tion of the GerafFe or Camelopardalis, at that time confidered in 
 Europe as a fabulous animal, are fo many and fuch ftrong evidences 
 in favour of his narrative, as to leave little doubt that he either 
 was himfelf upon the eaft coaft of Africa, or that he had received 
 very correct information from his Chinefe fhipmates concerning 
 it. Yet Dodor Vincent has afferted, in his Periplus of the Ery~ 
 threan Sea *, that in the time of this Venetian traveller none but 
 Arab or Malay vefTels navigated the Indian Ocean. With all due 
 deference to fuch high authority I cannot forbear obferving that the 
 
 *• In tlie very next page (202) lie however cnrrefis himfelf, by obferving that eithsr 
 the Chinefe or Malays navigated as far as Madagafcar. 
 
 fimple
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 47 
 
 fimple relation of Marco Polo bears internal and Irrefiftible evi- 
 dence that the fleet of fhips in which he failed were Chinefe, of 
 the fame kind to all intents and purpofes as they now are. 
 Nor have we any reafon for doubting the authority of the two 
 Mahoinedans who vifited China in the ninth century, when 
 they tell us that Chinefe fhips traded to the Perfian gulph at 
 that time. In a chart made under the direiflion of the Vene- 
 tian traveller and ftill preferved in the church of St. Michael de 
 Murano at Venice, the fouthei'n part of the continent of Africa is 
 faid to be diftindly marked down, though this indeed might 
 have been infcrted after the Cape of Good Hope had beea 
 doubled by the Portugueze. 
 
 Whether the Prince of Portugal had feen or heard of this 
 chart, or confuked the Arabian Geographers, or had read of the 
 circumnavigation of Africa in the firft tranflation of Herodotus 
 that made its appearance but a few years before the difcovery 
 of the fouthern promontory of this continent by Bartholomew 
 Diaz ; or whether the voyages were undertaken at that time 
 on a general plan of difcovery, authors feem not to have 
 agreed, but the opinion, I underftand, among the Portugueze is 
 that Henry had good grounds for fuppofing that the circumna- 
 vigation of Africa was pradlicable. 
 
 And whether the Phoenicians did or did not, in the earlieft 
 periods of hiftory, double the Cape of Good of Hope there 
 is abundant reafon for fuppoling they were well acquainted with 
 the eaft coaft of Africa as far as the Cape of Currents. Nor is it 
 probable that the extent and flourifhing condition of the trade 
 
 and
 
 48 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 and commerce of Tyrus fliould Iiave been limited to tliat part 
 of the Indian ocean to the fouthward of the Red Sea, which is 
 a more difficult navigation than to the northward. That this 
 commerce was extenfive we have the authority of the prophet 
 Ezekiel, who, in glo'vving terms, has painted its final deftruttion, 
 and who, it may be remarked, is ftippofed to have lived at the 
 very time the Phoenicians failed round Africa by order of Necho. 
 " Thy riches and thy fairs, thy merchandlfe, thy mariners and 
 " thy pilots, thy caulkers, and the occupiers of thy merchan- 
 " dize, and all thy men of war that are in thee, and in all thy 
 " company which is in the midfl: of thee, fhall fall into the 
 ♦' midft of the feas in the day of thy ruin." It is probable there- 
 fore that the navigation of the Eaftern Seas was known in the 
 earlleft periods of hlftory, and there feems to be no reafon for 
 fuppofing that the Chinefe fhould not have had their (hare in it. 
 
 Without, however, making any enquiry Into the proba- 
 bility that an ancient intercourfe might have fubfifted between 
 China and the Eaft coaft of Africa, either by convention for 
 commercial purpofes, or that Chinefe failors might have been 
 thrown on that coaft either in Phcsniclan, or Arabian, or their own 
 vefTels, I happened to obferve in a former publication of" Travels 
 " hi Southern Jfr'ica^'' as a matter of fa£t, " that the upper lid of 
 " the eye of a real Hottentot, as in that of a Chinefe, was 
 " rounded into the lower on the fide next the nofe, and that it 
 " formed not an angle as in the eye of an European — that 
 " from this clrcumftance they were known in the colony of 
 " the Cape by the name of Chinefe Hottentots.^'' Further ob- 
 fervatlons have confirmed me in the very ftrlking degree of re- 
 femblance between them. Their phyfical characters agree in 
 
 almoft
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 49 
 
 almoft every point. The form of their perfons In the remark- 
 able fmallnefs of the joints and the extremities, their voices and 
 manner of fpeaking, their temper, their colour and features, and 
 particularly that fingular fhaped eye rounded in the corner next 
 the nofe like the end of an ellipfis, probably of Tartar or Scy- 
 thian origin, are nearly alike. They allb agree in the broad root 
 of the nofe ; or great diftance between the eyes : and in the 
 oblique pofition of thefe, which, inftead of being horizontal, 
 as Is generally the cafe In European fubje£ts, are deprefled 
 towards the nofe. A Hottentot who attended me in travelling 
 over Southern Africa was fo very like a Chlnefe fervant I had 
 in Canton, both In perfon, features, manners, and tone of voice, 
 that almoft always inadvertently I called him by the name of 
 the latter. Their hair, it Is true, and that only differs. This, 
 in a Hottentot, Is rather harfh and wiry, than woolly, neither 
 Ipng, nor fliort, but twifted in hard curling ringlets refembling 
 fringe. I poffefs not a fufficient degree of {kill In phyliology 
 to fay what kind of hair the offspring would have of a Chi- 
 nefe man and Mofamblque woman ; much lefs can I pretend 
 to account for the origin of the Hottentot tribes, infulat^d oa 
 the narrow extremity of a large continent, and differing fo 
 remarkably from all their neighbours, or where to look for 
 their priautive flock unlefs among the Chinefe. 
 
 I am aware It will appear rather fingular to thofe, who may 
 have attended to the accounts that generally have been given 
 of thefe two people, to meet with a comparifon between the 
 moft polifhed and the moft barbarous, the wifeft and the moft 
 ignorant of mankind ; and I am therefore the lefs furprized at 
 
 H an
 
 ^o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 at an obfcrvatlon made by the writers of the Critical Review 
 " that the foetus of the Hottentots may refemble the Chinefe, as 
 " the entrails of a pig refemble ihofe of a man ; but on this 
 *' topic our ingenious author feems to wander beyond the circle 
 •* of his knowledge." I hope thefe gentlemen will not be of- 
 fended at my taking this occafion to affure them that the com- 
 parifon was not even then made on loofe grounds, although no 
 inference was drawn from it, and that on a clofer examina- 
 tion, I am the more convinced of their near refemblance in 
 mental as well as phyfical qualities. The aptitude of a Hotten- 
 tot in acquiring and combining ideas is not lefs than of a Chi- 
 nefe, and their powers of imitation are equally great, allowance 
 being made for the difference of education ; the one being con- 
 tinually from his infancy brought up in a fociety where all the 
 arts and conveniencies of life are in common ufe; the other 
 among a miferable race of beings in conflant want even of the 
 common neceffaries of life. 
 
 But as affertions and opinions prove nothing, I have annexed 
 the portrait of a real Hottentot, drawn from the life by Mr. S.. 
 Daniell, in order to compare it with one of a Chinefe, taken alfo 
 from the life by Mr. Alexander ; and I have no doubt that a 
 clofe comparifon of thefe portraits will convince the reader, as 
 well as the reviewer, that the refemblance I remarked to have 
 found was not altogether fanciful. 
 
 Indeed the people that have derived their origin from the 
 fame ftock with the Chinefe, are more widely fcattered over 
 tlie Aiiatic continent and the oriental iflands than is generally 
 
 imagined.
 
 TRAVELS IN'cHINA. 51 
 
 imagined. All thofe numerous focietles, known under 
 the common name of Malays, are unqueftionably defcended 
 from the ancient inhabitants of Scythia or Tartary ; and it may 
 perhaps be added, that their connexion with the Arabs and 
 their converfion to Iflamifm firft infpired, and have now ren- 
 dered habitual, that cruel and fanguinary difpofition for which 
 they are remarkable ; for it has been obferved that the natives of 
 thofe iflands, to which the baleful Influence of this religion has 
 not extended, have generally been found a mild and inoffenfivc 
 people; as was the cafe with regard to the natives of the 
 Pelew iflands when difcovered by Captain Wilfon. 
 
 The pei-ufal of Mr. Marfden's excellent hiftory of Sumatra 
 leaves little doubt on my mind that a Chinefe colony at fomc 
 early period has fettled on that ifland. This author obferves 
 that the eyes of the Sumatrans are little, and of the fame 
 kind as thofe of the Chinefe ; that they fufFer their nails to 
 grow long ; that they excel in working fillagree, making gun- 
 powder, &c. that they regifter events by making knots on cords ; 
 that they count decimally ; write with a ftyle on bamboo ; that 
 they have little hair on their bodies and heads, which little, like the 
 Chinefe, they extract. In their language, many words, I perceive, 
 are fimilar ; and the correfponding words exprefs the fame idea 
 in both languages ; but on etymological comparifons I would be 
 underftood to lay little ftrefs, for reafons which will be afligned in 
 the fixth chapter. The fimllitude of a religious ceremony is much 
 Wronger ground to build upon ; and the coincidence Is fuffi- 
 ciently remarkable, that the manner pradlfed by the Sumatrans 
 in taking a folemn oath (hould exadly agree with the fame ce- 
 
 H 2 remony
 
 58 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 remony which is ufed in giving a folemn pledge among the 
 common people of China, namely, by wringing off the head of 
 a cock. Captain Macklntofli told me that having once occafion 
 to place great confidence in the mafter of a Chinefe vefTel, and 
 doubting left he might betray it, the man felt himielf confi- 
 derably hurt, and faid he would give him fufficient proof that 
 he was to be trufted. He immediately procured a cock, and, 
 falling down on both knees, wrung off his head ; then hold- 
 ing up his hands towards heaven, he made ufe of thefe words : 
 *' If I a£l otherwife than as I have faid, do thou, o tien^ (Hea- 
 •' ven) deal with me as I have dealt with this cock I" 
 
 I have fmce been informed, from the beft authority, that 
 whenever, in the courfe of the concerns of the Britifh EafE 
 India Company with the merchants of China, it may be necef- 
 fary to adminlfter an oath to a Chinefe, the fame ceremony 
 is gone through of wringing off the head of a cock, which is 
 by them confidered in a very ferious light, a fort of incantation, 
 whofe effe£ts upon their minds are not unlike thofe produced 
 by fuppofed magic fpells, once common in our own country, 
 by which the vulgar were perfuaded that the Devil was to be 
 made to appear before them. In a Chinefe court of juftice aa 
 oath is never adminiftered. In a late affair, where a Chinefe 
 ^as killed by a feaman of a Britifh man of war, and the Cap- 
 tain was about to adminifter an oath to two of his people 
 "Whom he produced as evidences in a Chinefe court of juftice, 
 the chief judge was fo ihocked, that he ordered the court ta 
 be inftantly cleared. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 53 
 
 The C'lngahfe are unqueftionably of Chinefe origin. Thofe 
 who are acquainted with the Chinefe manners and charadler, 
 will immediately perceive the very clofe refcmblance, on reading 
 Mr, Boyd's relation of his embalfy to the King of Candy. 
 S'lti-quo^ kingdom of 5;«, (from whence Sina, or China,) are 
 Chinefe words ; the termination is European. So alfo is the 
 name of the ifland Chinefe, See-Ian^ See-long, or Sec-lung^ the 
 Weftern Dragon, in conformity to an invariable cuflora of 
 afligning the name of fome animal, to every .mountain. 
 
 Having no intention, however, to inveftigate minutely the 
 extent of Chinefe navigation and commerce in ancient times, 
 but rather to confine my obfervations to their prefent ftate, 
 I return from this digreffion, in order to proceed on our 
 
 voyage. 
 
 One of the fmall brigs, attending the expedition, was dif- 
 patched without lofs of time to the port of Chu-San, to take 
 on board the pilots that, agreeable to the order contained ia 
 the Imperial edift, were expedled to be found in readinefs to 
 embark. In fome of the paflages, formed by the numerous 
 iflands, the currents ran with amazing rapidity, appear- 
 ing more like the impetuous torrents of rivers, fwelled 
 by rains, than branches of the great ocean. The depth too 
 of thefe narrow paflages was fo great as to make it difficult, 
 dangerous, and frequently impoflible, for fhips to anchor ia 
 the event of a calm ; in which cafe they muft neceflarily drive 
 at the mercy of the fliream. As we approached, in the Cla- 
 rence brig, the high rocky point of the continent called Kee-toc^ 
 
 3 whicbt
 
 54 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 which juts into the midft of the clufter of iflands, the wind 
 fuddenly failed us ; and the current hurried us with fuch velo- 
 city diredly towards the point, that we expeded momentarily 
 to be daflied in pieces ; but on coming within twice the length 
 of the fliip of the perpendicular precipice, which was fome 
 hundred feet high, the eddy fwept her round three feveral times 
 with great rapidity. The Captain would have dropped the 
 anchor, but an old Chinefe fifherman, whom we had taken 
 on board to pilot us, made figns that it was too deep, and, at 
 the fame time, that there was no danger, except that of the 
 bowfprit ftriking againft the mountain. The Chinefe veflels 
 have no bowfprit. At this moment the lead was thrown, but 
 we got no foundings at the depth of one hundred and twenty 
 fathoms ; yet the yellow mud was brought up from the bottom 
 in fuch quantities, that the Nile, at the height of its inunda- 
 tions, or the great Yellow River of China, could not be more 
 loaded with mud than the fea was In the whirlpool of Kec-too 
 point. The current, in the Strait of Faro, fetting diredly 
 upon the rocks of Scylla, and the whirlpool of Charybdis, 
 thofe celebrated objeds of dread to ancient navigators, could not 
 poffibly have been more awfully terrific, though perhaps more 
 dangerous, than the currents and the eddies that boiled tumul- 
 tuoufly round this promontory of the Chinefe continent, where, 
 
 *' When the tide rulhes from her rumbling caves 
 '* The rough rock roars ; tumultuous boil the waves ; 
 " They tofs, they foam, a wild confufion raife, 
 " Like waters bubbUng o'er the fiery blaze." 
 
 The fecond whirl removed us to a confiderable diftance from 
 the point, and, after the third, we were fwept rapidly along 
 
 in
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 55 
 
 in a fmooth uniform current. Our interpreter, a Chinefe 
 prieft, who had been educated in the college de propaganda Jide 
 at Naples, was not quite fo compofed as his countryman the 
 pilot. The poor fellow, indeed, had nearly been thrown 
 overboard by the boom of the mainfail, in the firfl, which was 
 the moft rapid, whirl of the ihip ; the fame blow ftriking a 
 failor tofled his hat overboard ; and it afforded fome amufe- 
 ment, in our fuppofed perilous fituation, to hear the different 
 ejaculations of thefe two perfons on the fame occafion. 
 SatiEliJfima Mar'ia^ ejl miraculum, eft mlraculum I exclaimed the 
 prieft, with great eagernefs ; whilft the failor, rubbing his head, 
 and walking away, with much compofure obferved, that the 
 d — 71 d boom had carried away his fore-top-gallant cap ! 
 
 The Chinefe, it feemed, had already been apprized of our 
 arrival, for we had not proceeded far before a large veffel bore 
 down towards us, and, hailing the brig in their own language, 
 defired we would bring her to anchor, and that they would con- 
 du£l: us early the following morning into the harbour of Chu-fac, 
 Some of the officers came on board, were extremely civil, and 
 prefented us with a bafket of fruit; but they affeded to know 
 nothing of the occafion that had brought us thither. Our old 
 fifherman took out of the fea, (among thoufands that had 
 floated round our veffel) one of thofe animal fubftances which, 
 I believe, we vulgarly call fea blubbers (Mollusca mednfa 
 porpitd). It was at leaft a foot in diameter. Having dreffed it 
 for his fupper, and feeing it wear the inviting appearance of a 
 tranfparent colourlefs jelly, I was tempted to tafte it ; but the
 
 36 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 effed produced by this, or the fruit, or both, was a feverc 
 ficknefs, which continued for feveral days. 
 
 We weighed anchor at day-break, and, with a pleafant 
 breeze, failed in company with the clumfy-lookingyVwyf, which, 
 however, to the furprize of our feamen, failed quite as well as 
 the fmart-looking Clarence. 
 
 Having anchored before the town, in a fpaclous bafon 
 formed by feveral iflands, and paid the ufual compliment of a 
 falute, a few Mandarines (officers of government fo named 
 by the early Portugueze from mandar^ to command) came on 
 board. To every queftion that led to the main point of our 
 vifit, thefe people gave us evafive anfwers, affeding the moft 
 complete ignorance of every thing relating to the affairs of the 
 embafl'y. They faid the TJung-ping-, or military governor of 
 the ifland, was then abfent, but that he would return in the 
 courfe of the day, and would be happy to fee us on fhore the 
 following morning. Chinefe etiquette, I fuppofe, required that 
 a day fhould elapfe before our reception in form. 
 
 Accordingly, at an early hour in the morning the gentlemen 
 of the embcilTy, who had been fent on this bufmefs, went on 
 fhore, and were received by the Governor with great polite- 
 nefs, and abundant ceremony, in his hall of public audience, 
 which, as a building, had little to attract our notice. The 
 ufual minute enquiries being gone through, which, it feems, 
 Chinefe good-breeding cannot difpenfe with, fuch as the health 
 of his vifitors, of their parents aad relations, and particularly 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 5^ 
 
 the name and age of each perfon, the object of our vlfit was 
 explahied to him ; and at the fame time a hope exprefled that 
 there would be no delay in getting the pilots on board. The 
 old gentleman appeared to be much furprizcd at fuch violent 
 hafte, and talked of plays, feafts, and entertainments, that he 
 meant to give us. Pilots, however, he faid, were ready to 
 take charge of the (hips, and to carry them along the coaft to 
 the next province, where others would be found to conduct 
 them ftill farther. On being told that fuch a mode of naviga- 
 tion was utterly impracticable for the large Engllfh (hips, and 
 that fuch pilots would be of no ufe to us, he begged to be 
 allowed the remainder of the day to enquire for others. We 
 little expected to have met with any difficulties with regard to 
 pilots, in one of the beft and moft frequented ports in China, 
 where, at that time feveral hundred veffels were lying at anchor. 
 The remainder of the day was fpent in a vifit to the city of 
 Ting-hai ; but the crowd became fo numerous, and the day 
 was fo exceflively hot, that before we had paffed the length of 
 a ftreet, we were glad to take refuge in a temple, where the 
 priefts very civilly entertained us with tea, fruit, and cakes. 
 The officer who attended us advifed us to return in fedan 
 chairs, an offer which we accepted ; but the bearers were 
 flopped every moment by the crowd, in order that every one 
 might fatisfy his curiofity by thrufting his head in at the win- 
 dow, and exclaiming, with a grin, Hung-mau ! EtigliJJmiati^ 
 or, literally, Redpate ! Rather difappointed than gratified, we 
 were glad, after a fatiguing day, to throw ourfelves into our 
 cots on board the Clarence. 
 
 I When
 
 38 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 When we went on fliore the following morning, we found 
 the military governor, attended by a civil magiftrate, by whom, 
 after the ufual compliments, we were addrefled, in a long ora- 
 tion, delivered apparently with a great deal of folcmnity, the 
 intention of which was to convince us that, as it had been the 
 practice of the Chinefe, for time immemorial, to navigate from 
 port to port, experience had taught them it was the beft. 
 Finding, however, that his eloquence could not prevail on his 
 hearers to relinquifh their own opinions on the fubjed, the 
 governor and he confulted together for fome time, and at 
 length refolved that a general mufter fliould be made of all the 
 perfons in that place, vs'ho had at any time vifited by fea the 
 port of Tien-fing. 
 
 A number of foldiers were accordingly difpatched, and foon 
 returned, with a fet of the moft miferable-looking wretches I 
 ever beheld ; who were thrufl into the hall, and dropping on 
 their knees, were examined in that attitude, as to their qualifi- 
 cations. Some, it appeared, had been at the port of l^ien-fing^ 
 but were no feamen ; others followed the profeffion, but had 
 never been at that port ; and feveral were hauled in, who had 
 never fet a foot on board a veflel of any defcription whatfoever. 
 In fhort, the greater part of the day was confumed to no pur- 
 pofe ; and we were about to conclude that we had a great 
 chance of leaving the central and much-frequented harbour of 
 Cbu-fan, without being able to procure a fingle pilot, when 
 two men were brought in, who feemed to anfwer the purpofe 
 belter than any which had yet been examined. It appeared, 
 however, that they had quitted the fea for many years, and 
 
 being
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 59 
 
 being comfortably fettled in trade, had no defire to engage in 
 the prefent fervice ; on the contrary, they begged on their 
 knees that they might be excufed from fuch an undertaking. 
 Their fupplications were of no avail. The Emperor's orders 
 muft be obeyed. In vain did they plead the ruin of their 
 bufinefs by their abfence, and the diftrefs it w^ould occafion to 
 their wives, their children, and their families. The Governor 
 was inexorable; and they were ordered to be ready to embark 
 in the courfe of an hour. 
 
 This arbitrary proceeding of the Governor conveyed no very 
 exalted ideas of the juftice or moderation of the government, 
 or of the protection it afforded to the fubjeft. To drag away 
 from his family an honeft and induftrious citizen, fettled in 
 trade, and to force him into a fervice that muft be ruinous to 
 his concerns, was an ad; of injuftice and violence that could 
 not be tolerated in any other than a defpotic government, 
 where the fubje£t knows no laws but the will of the tyrant. 
 But we are yet on a diftani ifland of the Great Empire, remote 
 from the fountain of authority; and delegated power, in all 
 countries, is but too liable to be abufed. Befides, a Chinefe 
 might be impreffed with fentiments equally unfavourable of our 
 government, were he informed of the manner in which im- 
 perious neceffity fometimes requires our navy to be manned. 
 
 One confideration, however, might with fafety be drawn 
 from the occurrences of this day, which was this, that long 
 voyages are never undertaken where they can be avoided; but 
 that the commerce of the Yellow Sea is carried on from 
 
 I 2 port
 
 6o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 port to port ; and that the articles of merchandize fo tranf- 
 ported muft ncceflarily have many profits upon them, before 
 they come to the diftant confumer ; which may, in fome 
 degree, account for the high prices many of the products of the 
 country, as we afterwards found, bore in the capital. In like 
 manner was the inland commerce of Afia conduced by cara- 
 vans, proceeding from ftation to ftation, at each of which were 
 merchants to buy or exchange commodities with each other, 
 thofe at the limits of the journey having no conne£tion nor 
 communication whatfoever with one another ; which will partly 
 explain the ignorance of the Greeks with regard to the Eaftern 
 countries, from whence they derived their precious ftones, per- 
 fumes, and other valuable articles. 
 
 The old Governor was evidently relieved from a load of 
 anxiety at his fuccefs j and the tears and entreaties of the poor 
 men ferved only to brighten up his countenance. From 
 civility, or curiofity, or perhaps both, he returned our viiit on 
 board the brig, which had been crowded with the natives from 
 morning till night, fmce her firft arrival in the harbour. The 
 want of curiofity, which has been fuppofed to form a part of 
 the Chinefe charader, was not perceived in this inftance ; but 
 it was that fort of curiofity, which appeared rather to be incited 
 by the defire of looking narrowly at the perfons of thofe who 
 were to have the honour of being prefented to their Great 
 Emperor, than for the fake of gratifying the eye or the mind, 
 by the acquirement of information or new Ideas. The veflel, 
 although fo very different from their own, was an objeiS of 
 little notice ; and although eager to get a tranfient glance at 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 6i 
 
 the pafTengers, their curlofity was fatlsfied in a moment, and 
 was generally accompanied with fome vague exclamation, 
 in which the words Ta-whatig-tee occurred ; and the main 
 drift of which feemed to imply, " is this perfon to appear 
 *' before our Great Emperor ?" This was ftill more remarkable 
 in the crowd of Ting-hai ; nothing fcarcely was there heard 
 but the words Ta-whang-tee and Hung-maUy the Emperor and 
 the Englifhman. 
 
 The fquadron had fcarcely got under way, and cleared the 
 narrow paflages between the iflands into the Yellow Sea, 
 when it was perceived how very little advantage it was likely 
 to derive from the Chinefe pilots. One of them, in fad:, had 
 come on board without his compafs, and it was in vain to 
 attempt to make him comprehend ours. The moveable card 
 was to him a paradox, as being contrary to the univerfal prac- 
 tice with them, of making the needle traverfe the fixed points, 
 and not the points defcribed on the card to move (by the needle 
 being attached to the card), as in thofe of Europe. The other 
 was furnifhed with a compafs, about the fize of a common 
 fnuff-box, being an entire piece of wood, with a circular exca- 
 vation in the centre, juft large enough to admit the vibration 
 of a very fine fleel needle, not quite an inch in length, which, 
 however, might be found fufficiently ufeful, in their fliort 
 voyages, by means of a peculiar contrivance for preferving the 
 center of gravity, in all pofitions of the (hip, in coincidence 
 nearly with the center of fufpenfion. Nor is it neceflary, in 
 fo fhort and fine a needle, to load one end more than the other, 
 in order to counterad the dip, or tendency that the magnetic 
 
 I needle
 
 62 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 needle Is known to have, more or lefs, towards the horizon 
 in different parts of the world. The Chinefe, however, <lo 
 not feem to have adopted their fmall needle from any. know- 
 ledge either of the variation, or of the inclination of the mag- 
 netic needle. Although the needle be invariably fmall, yet it 
 fometimes happens that the margin of the box is extended to 
 fuch a fize, as to contain from twenty to thirty concentric 
 circles, containing various charaders of the language, confti- 
 tuting a compendium of their aflronomical (perhaps more 
 properly fpeaking) aftrological knowledge. As numbers of 
 iiich compalles are in the mufeums of Europe, it may not per- 
 haps be wholly unacceptable to give fome notion of what tbefe 
 circles of charaders contain. 
 
 1. Central circle, or the needle. 
 
 2. 8 myflical charaders denoting the firfl; principles of 
 
 matter, faid to be invented by Fo-Jhce, the founder 
 of the monarchy. 
 
 3. The names of the 12 hours into which the day is divided. 
 4 and 5. Names of the circumpolar ftars. 
 
 6. Charaders of the 24 principal meridians or colures. 
 
 7. The 24 fubdivifions or feafons of the year. 
 
 8. The charaders of the cycle of 60 years. 
 
 9. Numerical charaders relating to the above cycle. 
 
 10. Charaders denoting the 28 figns of the Zodiac. 
 
 1 1. Certain aftrological charaders. 
 
 12. Eight fentences explanatory of the 8 myftical charaders 
 
 on the fecond circle. 
 
 13. A different arrangement of the Chinefe cycle. 
 
 14. Charaders of the five elements. 
 
 15. Re-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 63 
 
 15. Repetition of the charadlers on the eighth circle. 
 
 16. Repetition of the eighth circle. 
 
 17. an di8. Charaders of obfcure mythology. 
 
 19. Names of 28 conftcllations and their places in the hea- 
 
 vens. 
 
 20. Relates to the fixth and fifteenth circles. 
 
 21. The world divided according to the fidereal influences. 
 
 22. Correfponds with the eighth and fixteenth circles. 
 
 23. Contains the fame as the above with the addition of the 
 
 fourteenth circle. 
 
 24. and 25. Are inexplicable even by the Chinefe. 
 
 26. An arrangement of certain characters and marks for cal- 
 culating lucky, unlucky, and neutral days. 
 
 2 7, is the fame as the nineteenth, and furrounds the whole *. 
 
 The greatefi: depth of the Yellow Sea, in the track of the 
 fliips, did not exceed thirty-fix fathoms, and it was frequently 
 diminiftied to ten fathoms. The weather, as ufually happens 
 in fliallow feas, was generally hazy. In doubling the 
 projedling promontory of the province of Shan-tung, the 
 land was hidden in thick fogs. And on thefe, fortunately, 
 diflipating, it was perceived that the whole fquadron was 
 within four miles of the main land, and one of the fhips clofe 
 upon a rocky ifland. The pilots were as ignorant of our fitua- 
 
 * If any argument were wanting to prove the originality of the magnetic needle as 
 ufed in China, the circumftance of their having ingrafted upon it their moil ancient and 
 favourite mythology, their cycles, conftcllations, elements, and, in fhort, an abftraft of 
 all their aftronomical or aftrological fcience, is quite fufficient to fettle that point. Thofe 
 who are acquainted with the Chinefe charafter will not readily admit that their long 
 eftablidied fuperftitions fhould be found incorporated on an inftrument of barbarian in- 
 vention. 
 
 tion
 
 64 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 tion as the meaneft fallor in the fquadron. Proceeding to the 
 weftvvard, a capacious bay was difcovered. One of the pilots, 
 after a minute examination of the land, which was now clear, 
 aflcrted that he knew the place very well ; that it was the bay 
 of Mfd-a-taw. The confidence with which he fpoke, and 
 the vaft concourfc of people, crowding down towards the 
 fhore, as if expecting our arrival, induced the Commander to 
 fteer diredly into the bay : but the depth of water diminifhing 
 to five fathoms, and land appearing on every fide, it was thought 
 prudent to let go the anchor. Several boats from the fhore were 
 prefently along-fide ; and we were foon convinced how little we 
 had to truft to the knowledge of our pilots, even within fight 
 of land. We were informed that the bay was called Kee-fan- 
 feii^ and that Mee-a-taw was, at leaft, fifteen leagues farther to 
 the weftward. 
 
 The hills along this fouthern coaft of the gulph of Pe-tche-lee 
 have a very peculiar chara£ter. They are all of the fame form 
 and nearly of the fame fize, being regular cones with fmooth 
 fides as if fafhioned by art, and entirely detached, each ftanding 
 on its proper bafe, refembling in their fhapes the fummer caps 
 worn by the officers of government ; and having, as yet, no 
 European names, they were noticed in the journals by the ap- 
 pellation of the firft, fecond, third, &c., mandarin's bonnets. 
 
 Determining now to avail ourfelves of the advice given by 
 the magiftrate of Chii-fan^ and to navigate from port to port, 
 we here procured two new pilots to carry the fhips to Mee-a- 
 taw. They brought us indeed to this place, but, inftead of a 
 
 harbour
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 65 
 
 harbour, we found only a narrow flralt, with a rapid tide fet- 
 ting through it, and rocky anchoring ground. On the fliore 
 of the continent was a city of confiderable extent, under the walls 
 of which next the fea was a bafon or dock, filled with vefl'els 
 whofe capacity might be from ten to one hundred tons. 
 
 The Governor of this city (the name of which we learned to 
 be Ten-tchoo-foo) paid his refpeds to the embaffador on board 
 the Lion, and obferved in the courfe of converfation that his 
 orders from court were to render all the fervice in his power to 
 the embafly, and to provide proper means of conveyance, either 
 by land or by fea. He feemed to be about the age of five and 
 thirty, a man of frank and eafy manners, courteous, intelligent, 
 and inquifitive. He flood higher in the opinion of all of us 
 than any we had yet feen. The following morning he fent off 
 what he was pleafed to call a trifling refrefliment, which con- 
 filled of four bullocks, eight fheep, eight goats, five facks of 
 fine white rice, five facks of red rice, two hundred pounds of 
 flour, and feveral bafkets of fruit and vegetables. 
 
 "We have always been taught to believe that the Chinefe con- 
 fider us as barbarians ; but we have hitherto no reafon to fay 
 that they treated us as fuch. At all events it was obvious that 
 the expelled arrival of the Britifh embafly had made no flight 
 impreflion on the court of Pekin. 
 
 Here we once more ventured on another pilot to carry the 
 {hips acrofs the gulph of Pe-tche-lee to Tien-fing. He was an 
 old man of 70 years, and feemed to poflTefs a perfect knowledge 
 
 K of
 
 66 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of all the bays and harbours in the gulph. He drew on paper 
 the fltetch of a port on the weftern coaft to which he undertook 
 to carry the Ihips. Fortunately, however, for us, it was con- 
 fidered more fafe to fend the fmall brigs a-head to found, than 
 to place any confidence in men who had already fo often de- 
 ceived us. They had fcarcely departed before the fignal of 
 danger was made ; a new courfe was fleered for the night, and 
 early the following morning, the fame fignal was repeated. 
 No land was now in fight, yet the water had fhallowed to fix 
 fathoms ; it was therefore deemed prudent to come to an an- 
 chor. It was a very unufual fituation for fuch large ihips to 
 ride thus at anchor in the middle of a ftrange fea, and out of 
 fight of land, yet liable, in cafe of blowing weather, to ftrike 
 againft the bottom. 
 
 The commanders of the fhips were esafperated againft the 
 pilots, and thefe on their part were almoft petrified with fear. 
 The poor creatures had done their beft, but they pofleired nei- 
 ther ikill nor judgment, or, perhaps, it may be more charitable 
 to fuppofe that they were confufed by the novelty of their fitu- 
 ation. It was in vain to endeavour to make them comprehend 
 the difference in the draught of water between their own 
 fhips and ours, which, in the latter, v/as as many fathoms as 
 feet in the former, although they were palpably fhewn, by a 
 piece of rope, the depth that was required. 
 
 As it was evidently impradicable to proceed farther with 
 cur own fliips towards the land, which was now from twelve 
 to fifteen miles diflant, and fo very low as not to be vifible 
 
 from
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. Sj 
 
 the deck, one of the tenders was difpatched to the mouth of 
 the Pei-ho or white river to report our arrival. Here two 
 officers from the court had already embarked to wait on the 
 Embaflador, carrying with them a prefent of refrefhments, con- 
 fifting of bullocks, hogs, (heep, poultry, wine, fruit, and vege- 
 tables, in fuch quantities, as to be more than fufficient for a 
 a week's confumption of the whole fquadron, amounting nearly 
 to fix hundred men. It confifted in twenty fmall bullocks, 
 one hundred hogs, one hundred iheep, one thoufand fowls, 
 three thoufand pumpkins, as many melons, apples, pears, 
 plumbs, apricots, and other fruits, with an abundance of culi- 
 nary vegetables. The wine was contained in large earthen 
 jars whofe covers were cloleiy luted. Numbers of the hogs 
 and the fowls had been bruifed to death on the paflage, which 
 were thrown overboard from the Lion with difdaln, but the 
 Chinefe eagerly picked them up, wafhed them clean and laid 
 them in fait. 
 
 The number of veffels they had difpatched to take on fhore 
 the prefents and the baggage was between thirty and forty, 
 the capacity of each not being lefs, and many of them more, 
 than two hundred tons ; fo imperfedl a judgment had thefe 
 people formed of the quantity of articles to be tranfhipped. 
 Thefe were the veffels whofe holds were divided into thirteen 
 diftin£l compartments, feparated by partitions of two inch 
 plank, the feams of which were caulked with a preparation 
 of fine lime made from {hells, and fibres of bamboo, in order 
 to render them water-tight. Their fails, cables, rigging and 
 
 K 2 cordage
 
 68 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 cordage were all made of bamboo ; and neither pitch nor tar 
 was ufcd on thefe or any part of the wood-work. 
 
 » 
 We detained about fifteen of thef?^' veflels to take on fliove 
 
 the Embafl'ador's fuite, the prefents for the Emperor, and the 
 
 baggage ; after which the Britifli fliips returned to Chii-fatt 
 
 without the afliftance of the Chinefe pilots, whofe flcill in 
 
 navigation was held very cheap, by the lowed feamen oo.- 
 
 board. 
 
 On entering the F el-Bo we obferved a number of buildings- 
 ereded on the right bank, with roofs of matting, but decorated' 
 in the moft fantaftical manner, with different coloured ribbands- 
 and variegated filks ; and' about three hundred foldiers in their 
 uniforms (which appeared to our eye not much adapted to 
 military purpofes) were drawn out, with a band of mufic, 
 near a temporary landing-place conftruiCted of wood j all of 
 which we underftood had been haftlly prepared for the recep- 
 tion of the Embaffador ; but as his Excellency was defirous of 
 reaching the capital without delay, he declined going on fhore, 
 preferilng to ftep into the accommodation yachts at once, that 
 w^ere ready to receive him, a little higher up the river, the mo- 
 ment that the prefents fliould be tranfhipped into the river- 
 craft. The officers who were deputed to conduit him to the 
 capital obferved, that fo muchhafte was not at all neceffary, as 
 the Emperor's birth-day was yet dlftant ; thefe people having 
 no other idea of an embaffy, as it feemed, than that of its being 
 a mere compliment to their Sovereign. The yellow flags dif- 
 
 played
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 69 
 
 played at the maft-heads of the river fleet, laden with the 
 prefents, and confiding of feventeen fail, gave, indeed, a more 
 extended meaning of fuch a miflion. Thefe flags, in broad 
 black chara£ters, bore the following infcription ; The Engli/h' 
 Embajfudor carrying Tribute to the Emperor of China. 
 
 ■We found the yachts that were deftined to convey us ex-- 
 ceedingly convenient, more fo indeed than any I have feen on 
 our canals of England. They are flat bottomed, and draw 
 only about fifteen inches of water. Their upper works are 
 high, appearing indeed like a floating houfe. They have three 
 apartments for the accommodation of paflengers j the firft an' 
 antichamber for the fervants and baggage ; the middle a com- 
 modious fitting and dining room, about fifteen feet fquare ; 
 and the third divided into two or three fleeping rooms. Behind 
 thefe is the kitchen ; and ftill farther aft, fmall places like dog- 
 kennels for the boatmen. Sometimes there is a kind of fecond 
 flory, upon the apartments, divided into little cells, that are juft 
 the length and breadth of a man. A Chinefe failor requires no 
 room for luggage, his whole, wardrobe being generally on his 
 back. In the difl'erent operations employed for making the 
 yachts proceed, they give no interruption to the paflengers. 
 A projecting gangway on each fide of the veflel, made of broad 
 planks, ferves as the paflTage from one end to the other. 
 
 The two officers that were fent from court, to conduflthe Em- 
 baflador to the capital, paid a vifit to every yacht, and fhewed' 
 the mofl; earneft defire to pleafe and to make us comfortable. 
 Their names were Van and Cboii^ to which they annexed the title 
 
 of-
 
 yq TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of Ta-gln, or great maji. Van had the rank of Lieutenant-General 
 in the army, and Chou was the Governor of a diftridl in 
 Pe-tcbe-lee. We obferved in their manners no indication of 
 that ftifFand ceremonious conduft, which cuftom obliges them 
 to put on in public. On the contrary, they fat down to table 
 with us, endeavouring to learn the ufe of the knife and fork, 
 and made themfelves extremely agreeable ; lamented they were 
 not able to hold converfatlon with us in our own language ; 
 and on going away, fhook hands with us like Englilhmen. 
 
 Provifions, fruit, and wines (fuch as the country affords) 
 were fent on board in fuch profufion, that I really believe the 
 Chinefe boatmen, in the courfe of the paffage up this river, 
 were enabled to lay by their winter's ftock from the furplus. 
 In truth, as Sir George Staunton has obferved, the hofpitality, 
 attention, and refpe£t we hitherto experienced, were fuch as 
 ftrangers meet with only in the Eaftern parts of the world. 
 
 Nothing that could convey the idea of extraordinary wealth 
 or comfort among the inhabitants, or of extraordinary abun- 
 dance and fertility in the country, (unlefs in the copious fup- 
 plies of our provifions) had yet occurred, either at Chu-fan 
 or in the firft three days' fail up the Pei-ho towards the capital. 
 The land on both fides was low and flat, and inftead of hedge- 
 rows, trenches were dug to mark the boundaries of property. 
 A fmall proportion only was under cultivation. The greater 
 part appeared to be four fvvampy ground, covered with coarfe 
 grafs, with rufhes, and the common reed. There were few 
 trses, except near the villages, which were of mean appeai-ance, 
 
 I the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ;i 
 
 the houfes generally confiftlng of mud walls, one ftory in 
 height, and thatched with ftraw or rufhes. Here and there a 
 folitary cottage intervened, but nothing that bore any refem- 
 blance to the refidence of a gentleman, or that could even be 
 called a comfortable farm-houfe. And although villages were 
 numerous, no aflemblage of houfes were perceived, that pro- 
 perly could be clafled under the name of a town, except that 
 of See-koo^ near the mouth of the river, and I'a-koo, a few 
 miles higher, until we proceeded to the diftance of about ninety 
 miles, when we entered the fuburbs of the large city of Tien~ 
 Jing, ftretching, like London on the Thames, for feveral miles 
 along each bank of the river Pei-ho. But neither the buildings 
 nor the river would bear any comparifon, even wdth thofe parts 
 about RedrifFe and Wapping. Every thing, in fa£t, that we had 
 hitherto feen wore an air of poverty and meannefs. After a long- 
 confinement on board a fhip, to thofe at leaft who are not accuf- 
 tomed to it, almoft any country appears to poffefs the charms 
 of a Paradife ; yet on our firft landing in this celebrated empire 
 to the prefent place, which is no great diftance from the capi- 
 tal, I am perfuaded, that every individual of the embafly felt 
 himfelf rather difappointed in the expeftations he had formed. 
 If any thing excited admiration, it was the vaft multitudes of 
 people that, from our firft arrival, had daily flocked down to the 
 banks of the river, of both fexes and of all ages. Their gene- 
 ral appearance, however, was not fuch as to indicate any ex- 
 traordinary degree of happinefs or comfort. The beft drefTed 
 men wore a fort of velvet cap on their heads ; a fliort jacket, 
 buttoned clofe round the neck, and folded acrofs the breaft, the 
 fleeves remarkably wide ; the materials cotton cloth, black, 
 
 blue,
 
 
 72 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 blue, or brown filk, or European camblet ; they wore quilicd 
 .petticoats, and black fattin boots. The common people were 
 drefled in large (Iraw hats, blue or black cotton frocks, wide 
 cotton trovvfers, and thick clumfy fhoes, fometimes made of ftraw. 
 Some had coarfe ftockings of cotton cloth ; the legs of others 
 were naked. A fingle pair of drawers conftituted indeed the 
 whole clothing of a great portion of the crowd. 
 
 Never were poor women fitted out in a ftyle fo difadvan- 
 tageous for fetting off their charms as thofe who made their 
 appearance on the banks of the Pei-hx) ; and we afterwards 
 found that the drefs of thefe, with fome flight variations, 
 was the common mode of the country. Bunches of large 
 artificial flowers, generally refembling afters, whole colours 
 were red,' blue, or yellow, were ftuck in their jet-black hair, 
 which, without any pretenfions to tafte or freedom, was 
 fcrewed up clofe behind, and folded into a ridge or knot acrofs 
 the crown of the head, not very unlike (^except in the want of 
 tafte) to the prefent mode in which the young ladies of Eng- 
 land braid their locks. Two bodkins of filver, brafs, or iron, 
 were confpicuoufly placed behind tlie head, in the form of an 
 oblique crofs, which is the common mode of Malay women. 
 Their faces and necks were daubed with white paint, the eye- 
 brows blackened, and on the center of the lower lip, and at 
 the point of the chin, were two fpots, about the fize of a fmall 
 wafer, of a deep vermillion colour. A blue cotton frock, like 
 that of the men, reaching in fome to the middle of the thigh, 
 in others to the knee, was almofl: univerfal. A pair of wide 
 trowfers, of different colours, but commonly either red, green, 
 
 or
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 75 
 
 or yellow, extended a little below the calf of the leg, where they 
 were drawn clofe, in order the better to difplay an ankle and a 
 foot, which for fingularity at leaft, may challenge the whole 
 world. This diftorted and difproportionate member confifts 
 of a foot that has been cramped in its growth, to the length of 
 four or five inches, and an ankle that is generally fwollcn in the 
 fame proportion that the foot is diminiflied. The little fhoe is 
 as fine as tinfel and tawdry can make it, and the ankle is band- 
 aged round with party-coloured clothes, ornamented with 
 fringe and taflels ; and fuch a leg and foot, thus dreffed out, 
 are confidered in China as fuperlatively beautiful. 
 
 The conftant pain and uneafinefsthat female children mufl: rie- 
 ceffarily fuffer, in the adl of compreffing, by means of bandages, 
 the toes under the fole of the foot, and retaining them in that 
 pofitlon until they literally grow into and become a part of it ; 
 and by forcing the heel forward, until it is entirely obliterated, 
 make it the more wonderful how a cuftom, fo unnatural and 
 inhuman, fhould have continued for fo many ages, at leaft 
 fuch is the opinion, that its origin is entirely unknown, or ex- 
 plained by fuch fabulous abfurdities as are too ridiculous to 
 affign for its adoption. 
 
 Few favage tribes are without the unnatural cuftom of 
 maiming or lopping off fome part of the human body, as 
 boring the lips and the cartilege of the nofe, drawing or 
 colouring the teeth, cutting off a joint from the fingers or toes, 
 and otherwife pracfiifing, as they muft fuppofe, improvements 
 on nature. But on this confideration it would fcarcely be fait^ 
 
 L to
 
 7^, TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 to conclude, that maiming the feet of the Chlnefe ladies 
 derived its origin from a period of time when they were yet in 
 a favage ftate, fmcc we arc in the daily habit of obferving the 
 mort civilized and enlightened focieties fludying to find out 
 beauties in defcds, and creating them where nature had 
 intended perfedlon. The Chinefe would no doubt be equally 
 furprized at, and confider as cgregioufly abfurd, the cuftom 
 of circumcifion, as praQifcd by a great portion of Afiatic 
 nations ; nor have we any reafon to think they would not 
 condemn the refinement of docks and crops among our horfes 
 as an abfurd cuftom, not lefs ridiculous in their eyes, than the 
 little feet of their ladies are in ours. If they could not refrain 
 from burfting into fits of laughter on examining the greafe and 
 powder with which our hair was disfigured ; and if they fome- 
 times lamented that fo much oil and flour had unneceflarlly 
 been wafted, we might, perhaps, in the vanity of felf-import- 
 ance, afiedt to pity their tafte ; but fetting cuftom and preju- 
 dice apart, we had certainly no great reafon to defpife and 
 ridicule the Chinefe, or indeed any other nation, merely 
 becaufe they differ from us in the little points of drefs and 
 manners, feeing how very nearly we can match them with 
 fimilar follies and abfurdities of our own.. 
 
 The filence of the earlieft travellers into China on fo extraor- 
 dinary a cuftom, would almoft warrant a conjedure that, 
 notwithftanding the pretended ignorance of the Chinefe with 
 regard to its origin, both the faftiion and the fentiment of its 
 being vulgar for ladies to be feen abroad, were only adopted 
 within the period of a few centuries. The Venetian traveller, 
 
 although
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 75 
 
 altliough he makes frequent mention of the beauty and 
 drefs of the women, takes no notice of this fingular fa- 
 flilon ; and he obferves that on the lake of Haiig-tchoo-foo 
 the ladles are accuftomed to take their pleafure with their 
 hufbands and their famihes. The Embafladors alfo of Shah 
 Rokh, the fon of Tamerlane, who in the year 141 9, 
 were fent to congratulate the Emperor of China, ftate in 
 the narrative of their expedition that, at their pubUc reception, 
 there flood two young virgins, one on each fide of the 
 throne, with their fiices and bofoms uncovered ; that they 
 were furnifhed with paper and pencils and took down 
 with great attention every word that the Emperor fpoke. 
 Thefe Embafladors faw alfo numbers of women In open 
 baths near the Yellow river ; and, In one city, they remark 
 that " there were many taverns, at the doors of which fat a 
 " number of young girls of extraordinary beauty." Nor do 
 the travels of two Mahomedans into China in the ninth 
 century, publiflied by Mr. Renaudot, make any mention of 
 the unnatural fmallnefs of the women's feet ; and they are not 
 by any means deficient In their obfervations of the manners and 
 cuftoms of this nation, at that time fo very little known to 
 the reft of the world. Almoft every thing they have related 
 concerning China at this early period is found to be true at 
 the prefent day, and as they particularly notice the drefs 
 and ornaments worn by the women, one would think they 
 would not have omitted a cuftom fo fingular In Its kind as that 
 of maiming the feet, if it had then been as common as it 
 now is. 
 
 \. 2 This
 
 jr6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 This monftrous fafhion has generally been attributed to the 
 jcaloufy of the men. Admitting this to have been the cafe, 
 the Chinefe muft be allowed to be well verfed in the manage- 
 ment of the fex, to have fo far gained the afcendancy over 
 them, as to prevail upon them to adopt a fafhion, which re- 
 quired a voluntary relinquifliment of one of the greateft pleafures 
 and bleflings of life, the faculty of locomotion ; and to contrive 
 to render this fafhion fo univerfal that any deviation from it 
 fhould be confidered as difgraceful. The defire of being 
 thought fuperior to the reft of his fellows fometimes, indeed, 
 leads a man, into ftrange extravagancies. Upon this principle the 
 men of learning, as they are pleafed to ftyle themfelves, fufFer the 
 nails of their little fingers to grow fometimes to the enormous 
 length of three inches for the fole purpofe of giving ocular de- 
 monftration of the impoffibility of their being employed in any 
 fort of manual labour ; and upon the fame principle, perhaps, 
 the ladies of China may be induced to continue the cuftom 
 of maiming their female infants, in order that their children 
 may be diftinguifhed from thofe of the peafantry, who, in moft 
 of the provinces, are condemned to fubmit to the drudgery of 
 the field. 
 
 The interior wrappers of the ladies' feet are faid to be feldom 
 changed, remaining, fometimes, until they can no longer hold 
 together ; a cuftom that conveys no very favourable idea of 
 Chinefe cleanlinefs. This, indeed, forms no part of their cha- 
 rafter; on the contrary they are what Swift would call a 
 frowzy people. The comfort of clean linen, or frequent change 
 
 I of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 77 
 
 of under-garments, Is equally unknown to the Sovereign and to 
 the peafant. A fort of thin coarfe filk fupplies the place of cot- 
 ton or linen next the fkin, among the upper ranks ; but the 
 common people wear a coarfe kind of open cotton cloth. Thefe 
 veftments are more rarely removed for the purpofe of wafliing 
 than for that of being replaced with new ones ; and the confe- 
 quence of fuch negleft or economy is, as might naturally be fup- 
 pofed, an abundant increafe of thofe vermin to whofe produc- 
 tion filthinefs is found to be moft favourable. The highefl: 
 officers of ftate made no hefitation of calling their attendants in 
 public to feek in their necks for thofe troublefome animals, 
 which, when caught, they very compofedly put between their 
 teeth. They carry no pocket handkerchiefs, but generally blow 
 their nofes into fmall fquare pieces of paper which fome of 
 their attendants have ready prepared for the purpofe. Many 
 are not fo cleanly, but fpit about the rooms, or againft 
 the walls like the French, and they wipe their dirty hands in the 
 fleeves of their gowns. They fleep at night in the fame clothes 
 they wear by day. Their bodies are as feldom waflied as their 
 articles of drefs. They never make ufe of the bath, neither 
 warm nor cold. Notwithftanding the vaft number of rivers and 
 canals, with which every part of the country is interfeded, I do 
 not remember to have feen a fingle groupe of boys bathing. The 
 men, in the hotteft day of fummer, make ufe of warm water 
 for wafhing the hands and face. They are unacquainted with 
 the ufe of foap. We procured, in Pekin, a fort of Barilla with 
 which and apricot oil we manufa£tured a fufficient quantity of 
 this article to wafh our linen, which, however, we were under 
 the neceffity of getting done by our own fervants. 
 
 On
 
 78 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 On approaching the town oiTien-fing we obferved a prodigious 
 number of large (lacks of fait, piled up in facks of matting. The 
 quantity thus ftored was found, on rough calculation, to be fuf- 
 ficicnt for the confumption of thirty millions of people, for a 
 whole year. Such a furprifing aggregate of one of the ufeful and 
 alinofl: neceflary, articles of life, was a preparative, in foine mea- 
 fure, for the vaft multitudes of people which appeared on our 
 paffing this northern emporium of China. The gabelle, or 
 duty on fair, w'hich the government here, as well as elfewhere, 
 haxi found convenient to impofe on one of the indifpenfable 
 articles of life, partly accounted for fuch an extraordinary accu- 
 mulation. The colledlor of the fait duties of Tien-Ji/ig 
 held one of the mofl lucrative appointments in the gift of the 
 crown. 
 
 The crowds of large veflels lying clofe together along the 
 fides cf the river ; the various kinds of craft paffing and repair- 
 ing ; the town and manufadories and warehoufes extending on 
 each bank as far as the eye could reach, indicated a fpirit of com- 
 merce far beyond any thing we had hitherto met with. The 
 •large veflels, the fmall craft, the boats, the fliores, the walls 
 furrounding the houfes, the roofs were all covered with fpec- 
 tators. Our barges, being retarded in the narrow paffages among 
 the (hipping, were at leaft two hours in reaching the head of the 
 town. During the whole time the populace ftood in the water, 
 the front rank up to the middle, to get a peep at the ftr^ngers. 
 Hitherto among the fpedators there had generally appeared full 
 as many of the fair fex as of the other ; and the elderly dames, in 
 
 par-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 19 
 
 particular, had been fo curious as to dip their little flumps Into 
 the water in order to have a peep into the barges as they glided 
 flowly along ; but here, among the whole crowd, not a fingle 
 female was vifible. Although the day was extremely fultry, 
 the thermometer of Fahrenheit being 88° in the fhade, as a mu- 
 tual accomodation their heads were all uncovered, and their 
 bald pates expofed to the fcorching rays of the fun. It was an 
 uncommon fpedtacle to fee fo many bronze-like heads ftuck as 
 clofe together, tier above tier, as Hogarth's groupe, intended to 
 difplay the difference between chara£ter and caricature, but it 
 lacked the variety of countenance which this artift has, in aa 
 inimitable manner, difplayed in his pidlure. 
 
 The deep founding ^o/;^, a fort of brazen kettle ftruck with 
 a mallet, and ufed in the barges to dire£t the motions of the 
 trackers on fhore, ihe kettle-drums and the trumpets in the mi- 
 litary band, the fhrill mufic and fqualling recitative in the 
 theatre, which was entirely open in front, and facing the river in 
 full view of the crowd ; the number of temporary booths and 
 buildings ereded for the ufe of the viceroy, governor, judges, 
 and other officers of government, and gaily decorated with . 
 ribbands and filken ftreamers ; the buzz and merriment of the 
 crowd had, altogether, fo ftriking an affinity to the ufual enter- 
 tainments of Bartholomew fair, that no extraordinary ftretch of 
 the imagination was required to fuppofe ourfelves for the moment 
 to have been tranfported intoSmithfield. We inftantly acquitted 
 the Chinefe of any want of curiofity. The arrival of Elfi Bey in 
 London drew not half the crowd ; and yet the Chinefe account 
 ■ ■ us
 
 So 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 us much greater barbarians than we pretend to confider the 
 inamelukes. The old viceroy of the province, a Tartar of mild 
 and winning manners, had prepared for us a moil magnificent 
 entertainment with wine, fruits, and great variety of paftry and 
 fweetmeats, together with prefents of tea, filk, and nankins, 
 not only to the Embaflador and his fuite, but alfo to the fer- 
 vants, muficians, and foldiers. 
 
 The cheerful and good-natured countenances of the multi- 
 tude were extremely prepoflefllng ; not Icfs fo their accomodat- 
 ing- behaviour to one another. There was an innocence and 
 fimplicity in their features, that feemed to indicate a happy and 
 contented turn of mind. This, however, "being a fort of gala 
 day, we might, on account of the extraordinary occafion, perhaps 
 have viev.'ed them to the beft advantage ; yet the fame cheerful 
 and willing mind had conftantly fhewn itfelf on all occafions, 
 by all thofe who were employed in the fervice of the embafly. 
 On board the yachts conftant mirth and good humour prevailed 
 among the feamen. When the weather was calm, the vefTels 
 were generally puilied on by means of two large fculls or oars 
 turning upon pivots that were placed in projecting pieces of 
 wood near the bow of the vefTel, and not the ftern, as is the 
 pradice of moft other nations. From fix to ten men are re- 
 quired to work one of thefe oars, which, inftead of being taken 
 out of the water, as in the adt of rowing, are moved backwards 
 and forwards under the furface, in a fimilar manner to what in 
 England is underftood by fcuUing. To lighten their labour, 
 and aflift in keeping time with the ftrokes, the following rude 
 
 air
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 8i 
 
 air was generally fung by the mafter, which the whole crew 
 ufed to join in chorus : 
 
 Solo 
 by the Maflcr. 
 
 Chorus 
 by the Citw. 
 
 A I R. 
 
 / Hai - yo hai-yau hai 
 
 ±: 
 
 S-4-=i-^ 
 
 hai-yo hai-yau 
 
 ^-» 
 
 -F — ^ 
 
 >• 
 
 -^— ^ 
 
 Hai-yo hai-yau 
 
 ■ 1 l -V-^h'^p—^— ' 
 
 hai-yo 
 
 p=e^f^^ ^-4^^:^^ ^fe^ 
 
 hai - wlia de 
 
 -»-- h- 
 
 w 
 
 £ 
 
 4^ 
 
 ^ — =H 
 
 -=HH»-I>- 
 
 hai-yau 
 
 hai-yau hai-yau 
 
 <-\ M 1 -F-H 
 
 hai-yo hai-yau 
 
 On many a calm ftill evening, when a dead filence reigned 
 upon the water, have we liftened with pleafure to this artlefs 
 and unpoliihed air, which was iung, with little alteration 
 through the whole fleet. Extraordinary exertions of bodily 
 flrength, depending, in a certain degree, on the willingnefs of 
 the mind, are frequently accompanied with exhilarating excla- 
 mations among the moft favage people ; but the Chinefe fong 
 could not be confidered in this point of view ; like the excla- 
 mations of our feamen in hauling the ropes, or the oar fong of 
 the Hebridians, which, as Doctor Johnfon has obferved, refem- 
 bled the proceleufmatick verfe by which the rowers of Grecian 
 
 M galleys
 
 82 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 galleys were animated, the chief objedl of the Chlnefe cho- 
 rus feemed to be that of combining chearfulnefs with regu- 
 larity. 
 
 "■ Vcife fweetens toiV however rude the found." 
 
 Of their honefty, fobriety, and carefulnefs, we had already re^ 
 ceived convincing proofs. Of the number of packages, 
 amounting to more than fix hundred, of various fizes and de- 
 fcriptions, not a fingle article was miffing nor injured, on their 
 arrival at the capital, notwithftanding they had been moved 
 about, and carried by land, and tranfliipped feveral times. Of 
 the three ftate-officers, who had been deputed from court to 
 attend the embaffy, two of them were the moft obliging and 
 attentive creatures imaginable. The third, a Tartar, who firft 
 made his appearance at Ticn-ftng^ was diftant, proud, and im- 
 perious. The Chinefe indeed were invariably more affable 
 than the Tartars. In fliort, had we returned to Europe, with- 
 out proceeding fartlier in the country than 7'ien-Jiiig, a mod 
 lively impreffion would always have remained on my mind in 
 favour of the Chinefe. But a variety of incidents that after- 
 wards occurred, and a more intimate acquaintance with their 
 manners and habits, produced a woeful change of fentiment ia 
 this refpe£t. Of fuch incidents, as may tend to illuftrate the 
 moral charader of this extraordinary people, I fhall relate a few 
 that were the moft ftriking, in taking a general view of their 
 Hate of fociety, to which, and to the nature of the executive 
 government, all their moral adions may be referred : and by 
 the influence of which, the natural bent of their charader evi- 
 dently has undergone a complete change. 
 
 Leaving.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 8j 
 
 Leaving Tien-Jiiig on the nth of Auguft, we found the 
 river confiderably contra<Sed in its dimenfions, and the ftream. 
 more powerful. The furface of the country, in fadt, began to 
 afliime a lefs uniform appearance, being now partly broken 
 into hill and dale ; but nothing approaching to a mountain was 
 yet vifible in any diredlion. It was ftill however fcantily 
 ■wooded, few trees appearing except large willows on the banks, 
 and knots of elms, or firs, before the houfes of men in office, 
 and the temples, both of which were generally found at the 
 head of each village. More grain was here cultivated than on 
 the plains near the mouth of the river. Two fpecies of millet, 
 the paniaim criis gijUi, and the italicimi, and two of a larger 
 grain, the bolciis forghimi^ and the Jaccharatus^ were the moft 
 abundant. We obferved alfo a few patches of buck-wheat, 
 and different forts of kidney-beans; but neither common wheat, 
 barley, nor oats. A fpecies of nettle, the urtica nivea was alfo 
 fown in fquare patches, for the purpofe of converting its fibres 
 into thread, of which they manufadure a kind of cloth. We 
 faw no gardens nor pleafure-grounds, but confiderable tradts of 
 paflure or meadow-land intervened between the villages, on 
 which however were few cattle, and thofe few remarkably 
 fmall. Thofe we procured for the ufe of the fhips along the 
 coaft of the gulph of Pe-tche-lee, feldom exceeded the weight of 
 two hundred pounds. The few flieep we faw were of the 
 broad-tailed fpecies. The cottages of the peafantry were very 
 mean, without any appearance of comfort, and thinly fcat- 
 tered ; feldom Handing alone, but generally collecled into fmall 
 
 villages. 
 
 M 2 If
 
 84 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 If, however, cities, towns, villages, and farm-houfes, were 
 lefs abundant fo near the capital, than from the relations of 
 travellers we had expeded to find them, the multitudes of 
 inhabitants whofe conftant dwelling was on the water, amply- 
 made up the apparent deficiency on fliore. We paifed, in one 
 day, upon this river, more than fix hundred large vefliels, 
 having each a range of ten or twelve diftin£t apartments built 
 upon the deck, and each apartment contained a whole family. 
 The number of perfons in one of thefe veflels, we reckoned, on 
 an average, to be about fifty, and we actually counted above 
 one thoufand vefTels of this defcription, that were floating on that 
 part of the river, between Tien-fing and Tong-tchoo. The dif- 
 ferent kinds of craft, befides thefe, that were perpetually paffing 
 and re-paffing, or lying chained to the banks of the river, all 
 of which were crowded with men, women, and children, con- 
 tained full as many as the large vefiels above mentioned ; fo 
 that, in the diftance of ninety miles, on this fniall branch 
 of a river, there were floating on the water not fewer than one 
 hundred thoufand fouls. 
 
 Among the different cargoes of cotton wool, copper-money, 
 rice, filk, fait, tea, and other commodities for the fupply of the 
 capital, we obferved an article of commerce, in feveral of the 
 large open craft, that puzzled us not a little to find out for 
 what it was intended. It confifted of dry brown cakes, not 
 much larger but thicker than thofe we call crumpets. A clofe 
 examination, however, foon difcovered the nature of their 
 compofition, which, it feemed, was'a mixture of every kind of 
 filth and excrementitious fubftances, moulded into their prefect 
 fhape,. and dried in the fun. In this form they are carried to 
 
 3 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 85 
 
 the capital as articles of merchandize, where they meet with a 
 ready market from the gardeners in the vicinity ; who, after 
 diflblving them in urine, ufe them for manure. 
 
 Little occurred that was worthy of note, between Tlen-fmg 
 and Tong-tchoo, except an inftance in the exercife of arbitrary 
 power, not lefs cruel than that of the Governor of Cbu-fan^ 
 and ill agreeing with the feelings of Englifhmen. Some of 
 our proviiions happened one morning to be a little tainted, 
 which could not be wondered at, confidering the heat of the 
 weather, the mercury, by Fahrenheit's fcale, being from 82° to 
 88°. The officers, however, who had been commiffioned to 
 furnifh the fupply of provifions, were inftantly deprived of their 
 rank, and all their fervants feverely bambooed. The Em- 
 baffador interceded with Van and Chou in favour of the de- 
 graded delinquents, was heard with great attention, but per- 
 ceived that little indulgence or relaxation from ftridt difcipline 
 was to be expe«3:ed on fuch occafions. 
 
 The whole diftance, from the entrance of the Pet ho to the 
 city of Tong-tchoo is about one hundred and feventy miles. 
 Here we found two buildings, that had been ereded in the 
 fpace of two days, for the temporary purpofe of receiving the 
 prefents and baggage ; and they were conftrudled of fuch large 
 dimenfions, that they were capable of containing at leafl: ten 
 times the quantity. The materials were wooden poles and 
 mats, and a fence of wooden paling furrounded the whole. 
 
 We took up our lodging in a fpaclous temple in the fnburbs, 
 from whence the priefts were turned out without the lead 
 
 ceremony
 
 86 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ceremony, to make room for us, confiftlng in the whole of one 
 hundred perfons nearly. And here it was fettled we fhould 
 remain until every article was landed, and coolies or porters 
 procured fufficient to carry the whole at once to Pekin, which 
 was computed to be about twelve miles to the weftward from 
 this place. And although near three thoufand men were 
 required for this purpofe, they were fupplied the inftant the 
 goods were all on fliore ; nor did it appear that any difficulty 
 would have been found in raifing double that number, as there 
 feemed to be ten times the number of idle fpeftators as of 
 perfons employed. The plain between the landing-place and 
 the temple was like a fair, and cakes, rice, tea, and fruit upon 
 mafles of ice, and many other refrefhments were expofed for 
 fale, under large fquare umbrellas, that ferved inftead of booths. 
 A nice of water-melon, cooled on ice, was fold for one tchen^ a 
 piece of bafe copper coin, of the value of about three-tenths of 
 a farthing. Not a fingle woman appeared among the many 
 thoufand fpe^^lators that were affembled on the plain.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. «? 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Journey through the Capital to a Country Villa of the Em- 
 peror. Return to Pekin. The Imperial Palace and Gardens 
 of Yuen-min-yuen, and the Parks of Gehol. 
 
 Order of ProceJJicn from Tong-choo to the Capital. — Crowd ajfembled on the Occa- 
 fion. — Appearance of Pekin luithout and within the Walls, — Some Account of this 
 
 City. — Proceed to a Country Villa of the Emperor.— Inconveniencies of. Return to 
 
 Pekin.— Embiijptdor proceeds to Tartary. — Author fent to the Palace 0/ Yuen-min- 
 yuen. — Miferable Lodgings of. — Vifit of the Prefident and Members of the Mathe- 
 matical Tribunal. — Of the Bifliop of Pekin, and others Gill's Sword-blades 
 
 Hatchetfs Carriages. — Scorpion found in a Cajh packed at Birmingham.-^Portraits 
 of Englif} Nobility. — Effects of Accounts from Tartary on the Officers of State in 
 Pekin. — Emperor's return to the Capital. — In/pecls the Prefents. — Application 
 of the Embaffador for Leave to depart. — Short Account of the Palace and Gardens of 
 Yuen-min-yuen. — Lord Macartney's Defcription of the Eajlern and Weflern Parks 
 of Gehol.— And his general Remarks on Chinefe Landfcape Gardening. 
 
 X HE prefents for the Emperor and our private baggage being 
 all landed, the packages repaired, and every article minutely 
 noted dov?n by the officers of government, the porters were 
 diredled to fix their bamboo bearing poles to each package, that 
 no impediment might prevent our fetting out at an early hour 
 in the morning. In doing this, as well as in landing the arti- 
 cles from the veffels, the Chinefe porters fhewed fuch expedi- 
 tion, ftrength, and activity, as could not, I believe, be pa- 
 ralleled.
 
 88 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 rallcl or procured in fo fhort a time, in any other country. 
 Every thin"- here, in h^t, feems to be at the inftant command 
 of the ftatc ; and the mofl; laborious tafks are undertaken and 
 executed with a readinefs, and even a chearfulnefs, which one 
 could fcarcely expe£t to meet with in fo defpotlc a government. 
 
 According to the arrangement, on the iifr of Augufi:, about 
 three o'clock in the morning, we were prepared to fet out, but 
 could fcarcely be faid to be fairly in motion till five, and before 
 we had cleared the city of Tong-tchoo, It was pad fix o'clock. 
 From this city to the capital, I may venture to fay, the road 
 never before exhibited fo motley a groupe. In front marched 
 about three thoufand porters, carrying fix hundred packages ; 
 feme of vv-hich were fo large and heavy, as to require thirty- 
 two bearers : with thefe were mixed a proportionate number of 
 inferior officers, each having the charge and fuperintendence of 
 a divifion. Next followed eighty-five waggons, and thirty- 
 nine hand-carts, each with one wheel, loaded with wine, por- 
 ter, and other European provifions, ammunition, and fuch 
 heavy articles as were not liable to be broken. Eight light 
 field pieces, which were among the prefents for the Emperor, 
 clofed this part of the proceffion. After thefe paraded the 
 Tartar legate, and feveral officers from court, with their nume- 
 rous attendants ; fome on horfeback, fome in chairs, and others 
 on foot. Then followed the Embaflador's guard in waggons, 
 the fervants, muficians, and mechanics, alfo in waggons ^ the 
 gentlemen of the fuite on horfeback, the Embaflador, the Mi- 
 nifter Plenipotentiary, his fon, and the interpreter, in four or- 
 ,iiamented chairs j the reft of the fuite in fmall covered carriages 
 
 on
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 89 
 
 on two wheels, not unlike In appearance to our funeral hearfes, 
 but only about half the length ; and laft of all Van and ChoN^ 
 -with their attendants, clofed this motley pvoceffion. 
 
 Though, the diftance was only twelve miles, it was thought 
 advifeable by our conductors to halt for breakfaft about half-way; 
 for, as heavy bodies move flowly, what with the delay and 
 confufion in firft getting into order, and the frequent ftoppages 
 on the road, we found it was eight o'clock before the whole of 
 the cavalcade had reached the half-way houfe. Here we had a 
 moft fumptuous breakfaft of roaft pork and venifon, rice and 
 made difhes, eggs, tea, milk, and a variety of fruits ferved up 
 on mafles of ice. 
 
 The porters and the heavy baggage moved forwards without 
 halting ; and having ended our comfortable repaft, we followed 
 without lofs of time. We had fcarcely proceeded three miles, 
 till we found the fides of the road lined with fpedlators on 
 horfeback, on foot, in fmall carriages fmiilar to thofe we rode 
 in, in carts, waggons, and chairs. In the laft were Chinefe 
 ladies but, having gauze curtains at the fides and front, we 
 could fee little of them. Several well-looking women in long 
 filken robes, with a great number of children, were in the fmall 
 carriages. Thefe we underftood to be Tartars. A file of fol- 
 diers now moved along with the proceflion on each fide of the 
 road, armed with whips, which they continually exercifed in 
 order to keep off the crowd that increafed as we approached 
 the capital, and, at length, was fo great as to obftru£l the road. 
 We obferved, however, that though the foldiers were very 
 
 M adivc
 
 00 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA 
 
 aaive and nolfy in brandifhing their whips, they only ftruck 
 them a"-ainft the ground, and never let them fall upon the 
 people. Indeed a Chinefe crowd is not fo tumultuous and un- 
 ruly as it generally is elfewhere. 
 
 The exceflive heat of the weather, the duftinefs of the road, 
 the clofenefs of the carriages, and the flow manner in which 
 we moved along, would have made this fhort journey almoft 
 infupportable, but from the novelty of the fcene, the fmiles, 
 the grins, the geftures of the multitude, and above all, the 
 raomentary expedatlon of entering the greateft city on the fur- 
 face of the globe. Thofe alfo who had been fo unlucky as to 
 make choice of the little covered carriages, found themfelves 
 extremely uncomfortable, notwithftanding they are the beft, the 
 moft eafy and genteel fort of carriage that the country affords. 
 Being fixed on the wheels without fprings, and having no feats 
 in the infide, they are to an European, who mufl: fit on his 
 haunches in the bottom, the moft uneafy vehicles that can be 
 imagined. Father Semedo, one of the earlieft miffionaries to 
 China, afierts, that coaches were anciently in common ufe ia 
 this country, and that they were laid down on account of the 
 great convenience and little expence of fedan chairs. The 
 coaches alluded to by the reverend father were, in all probabi- 
 lity, the little carts above mentioned, for not the veftige of any 
 thing better is to be found among them ; not the leaft appear- 
 ance of any thing like a fpring carriage. It is more probable 
 that palanquins and chairs have been in common ufe here and 
 in India, from the earlieft period of their hiftories. The leBica 
 of the Romans is fuppofed to have been brought to Rome 
 
 in
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 91 
 
 in the time of the Republic from fome of the eaftern na- 
 tions. 
 
 The great road to the capital lay acrofs an open country, 
 fandy and ill cultivated, and the few houfes on each fide 
 were of mean appearance, generally built with mud, or half 
 burnt bricks, to the very gates of Pekln. The middle 
 part of the road, for the width of eighteen or twenty feet, 
 was paved with Hones of granite from fix to fixteen feet 
 in length and broad in proportion. Every one of thefe enor- 
 mous flag ftones muft have been brought at leaft fixty miles, 
 the neareft mountains where quarries of granite are found being 
 thofe that divide China from Mantchoo Tartary, near the great 
 wall. 
 
 A temple on the right of the road and a bridge of white 
 marble having the balluftrade ornamented with figures, meant 
 to reprefent lions and other animals cut out of the fame mate- 
 rial, were the only objefts that attraded any notice, until the 
 walls and the lofty gates of the capital appeared in view. None 
 of the buildings within, on this fide of the city, overtopped 
 the walls, though thefe did not appear to exceed twenty-five 
 or at moft thirty feet in height ; they were flanked with fquare 
 towers, and furrounded by a moat or ditch. Thefe towers pro- 
 jected about forty feet from the line of the wall, and were placed 
 at regular intervals of about feventy yards, being confidered as 
 bow-fhot difiance from each other. Each had a fmall guard- 
 houfe upon its fummit. The thicknefs of the bafe of the wall 
 was about twenty-five feet, and the width acrofs the top within 
 
 N 2 the
 
 ill 
 
 5a TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 the parapets twelve feet ; ib that the fides of ,the wall have a 
 very confiderable flope, much more however within than with- 
 out. The middle part was compofed of the earth that had been 
 dug out of the ditch j and was kept together by two. retaining 
 walls, part of which w^ere of brick and part of ftone. The 
 famous barrier on the borders of Tartary, and the ramparts of 
 all the cities in the country, are built in the fame manner. 
 
 No cannon were mounted on the walls nor on the baftions; but 
 in the high building which furmoimted the gate, and which was 
 feverai ftories one above the other, the port-holes were clofed 
 with red doors, on the outfide of which were painted the re- 
 prefentations of cannon, not unlike at a diftance the fham ports 
 in a fhip of war. The gates of a Chinefe city are generally 
 double, and placed in the flanks of a fquare or femiclrcular bai- 
 tion. The firft opens into a large fpace, furrounded with build- 
 ings, which are appropriated entirely for military ufes, being 
 the depot of provifions and ammunition, place d'annes, and 
 barracks. Out of this place, in one of the flanks, the fecond 
 gate, having a fimilar high building ered:ed over it as the firfl, 
 opens into the city. 
 
 The firft appearance of this celebrated capital Is not much cal- 
 culated to raife high expedatlons, nor does it in the leaft im- 
 prove upon a more intimate acquaintance. In approaching an 
 European city it generally happens that a great variety of ob- 
 jefts catch the eye, as the towers and fplres of churches, domes, 
 obeliflcs, and other buildings for public purpofes towering above 
 the reft ; and the mind is amufed in conjeduring the form and 
 
 3 magnitude
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 93 
 
 magnitude of their feveral conftrudions, and the ufes to which 
 they may be applied. In Pekin not even a chimney is feen rif- 
 ing above the roofs of the houfes which, being all nearly of 
 the fame height, and the ftreets laid out in ftraight lines, have 
 the appearance and the regularity of a large encampment. The 
 roofs would only require to be painted white, inftead of being 
 red, green, or blue, to make the refemblance complete. Few 
 houfes exceed the height of one ftory, and none but the great 
 fhops have either windows or openings in the wall in front, 
 but moft of them have a fort of terrace, witl:. a railed balcony 
 or parapet wall in front, on which are placed pots of flowers,, 
 or fhrubs, or flunted trees. 
 
 This city is an oblong fquare, the outward boundary of which ^'' t% 
 
 IS fony lees, each Zfi? being fix hundred yards, fo that the in- , h^To^" ji. 
 clofing wall is near fourteen Englifh miles, and the area about 1^7^" 
 twelve fquare miles, independent of the extenfive fuburbs at 
 every gate. In the fouth wall are three gates, and in each of the 
 other fides two, from whence it is fometimes called The city with 
 nine gates ; but its ufual name is Pc-ching, or the Northern 
 Court. The middle gate, on the fouth fide, opens into the Im- 
 perial city, which is a fpace of ground within the general in- 
 clofure, in the fhape of a parallelogram, about a mile in length 
 from north to fouth, and three-fourths of a mile from eaft 
 to weft. A wall built of large red polilhed bricks, and 
 twenty feet high, covered with a roof of tiles painted yellow 
 and varnifhed, furrounds this fpace, in which are contained 
 not only the imperial palace and gardens, but alfo all the tri- 
 bunals, or public offices of government, lodgings for the mi- 
 
 nifters. 
 
 wo y
 
 54 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 niftere, the eunuchs, artificers, and tradefmen belonging to the 
 court. A great variety of furface, as well as of different ob- 
 jeds, appear within this inclofure. A rivulet winding through 
 it not only affords a plentiful fupply of water, but adds largely 
 to the beauties of the grounds, by being formed into canals and 
 bafons, and lakes, which, with the artificial mounts, and rocks, 
 and groves, exhibit the happiefl: imitation of nature. 
 
 Between the other two gates. In the fouth wall, and the 
 correfponding and oppofite ones on the north fide of the city, 
 run two ftreets perfedly flraight, each being four Engllfli 
 miles in length, and about one hundred and twenty feet 
 in width. One ftreet alfo of the fame width runs from one 
 ©f the eaftern to the oppofite weftern gate, but the other is in- 
 terrupted by the north wall of the imperial city, round which 
 it is carried. The crofs ftreets can be confidered only as lanes 
 branching from thefe main ftreets at right angles ; are very 
 narrow ; but the houfes in them are generally of the fame con- 
 ftrudion as thofe in the great ftreets. The large houfes of the ftate 
 officers are in thefe lanes. 
 
 Although the approach to Pekin afforded little that was intc- 
 reftmg, we had no fooner paffed the gate and opened oat the 
 broad ftreet, than a very fingular and novel appearance was ex- 
 hibited. We faw before us a line of buildings on each fide of 
 a wide ftreet, confifting entirely of fliops and warehoufes, the 
 particular goods of which were brought out and difplayed In 
 groupes in front of the houfes. Before thefe were generally 
 credled large wooden pillars, whofe tops were much higher 
 
 thaix
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. g^j 
 
 than the eves of the houfes, bearing lnfcr]ptions In gilt charac- 
 ters, fetting forth the nature of the wares to be fold, and the 
 honeft reputation of the feller; and, to attract the more notice, 
 they were generally hung with various coloured flags and 
 ftreamers and ribbands from top to bottom, exhibiting the ap- 
 pearance of a line of fliipping drefled, as we fometimes fee 
 them, in the colours of all the different nations in Europe. The' 
 fides of the houfes were not lefs brilliant in the feveral colours 
 with which they were patnted, confifting generally of flcy blue 
 or green mixed with gold : and what appeared to us fingular 
 enough, the articles for fale that made the greateft fhow were 
 coffins for the dead. The mofl fplendid of our coffin furniture 
 would make but a poor figure if placed befide that intended for 
 a wealthy Chinefe. Thefe machines are feldora lefs than three 
 inches thick, and twice the bulk of ours. Next to thofe our 
 notice was attradted by the brilliant appearance of the funeral 
 biers and the marriage cars, both covered with ornamental 
 canopies. 
 
 At the four points where the great ftreets interfe£l: one an- 
 other were ereded thofe fingular buildings, fometimes of ftone, 
 but generally of wood, which have been called triumphal 
 arches, but which, in fa£l, are monuments to the memory of 
 thofe who had deferved well of the community, or who had at- 
 tained an unufual longevity. They confift invariably of a 
 large central gateway, with a fmaller one on each fide, all co- 
 vered with narrow roofs ;. and, like the houfes, they are painted, 
 ■varnilhed, and gilt in the moft fplendid manner. 
 
 The
 
 56 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The multitude of moveable workdiops of tinkers and bar- 
 bers, coblers and blackfmiths ; the tents and booths where 
 tea and fruit, rice and other eatables were expofed for fale, 
 with the wares and merchandize arrayed before the doors, had 
 contraded this fpacious ftreet to a narrow road in the middle, 
 juft wide enough for two of our little vehicles to pafs each other. 
 The cavalcade of officers and foldiers that preceded the embafly, 
 the proceffions of men in office attended by their numerous re- 
 tinues, bearing umbrellas and flags, painted lanterns, and a 
 variety of ftrange infignia of their rank and ftation, different 
 trains that were accompanying, with lamentable cries, corpfes 
 to their graves, and, with fqualling mufic, brides to their huf- 
 bands, the troops of dromedaries laden with coals from Tar- 
 tary, the wheel-barrov/s and hand-carts fluffed with vegetables, 
 occupied nearly the whole of this middle fpace in one continued 
 line, leaving very little room for the cavalcade of the embaffy 
 to pafs. All was in motion. The fides of the ftreet were filled 
 with an immenfe concourfe of people, buying and felling and 
 bartering their different commodities. The buz and confufed 
 noifes of this mixed multitude, proceeding from the loud baw- 
 ling of thofe who were crying their wares, the wrangling of 
 others, with every now and then a ftrange twanging noife like 
 the jarring of a cracked Jew's harp, the barber's fignal made by 
 his tweezers, the mirth and the laughter that prevailed in every 
 groupe, could fcarcely be exceeded by the brokers in the Bank 
 rotunda, or by the Jews and old women in Rofemary-Lane, 
 Pedlars with their packs, and jugglers, and conjurers, and for- 
 tune-tellers, mountebanks and quack-dodors comedians and 
 muficians, left no fpace unoccupied. The Tartar foldiers, with 
 
 their
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. gj, 
 
 their whips, kept with difficuhy a clear paflage for the em- 
 bafly to move flowly forwards; fo flow, indeed, that although 
 we entered the eaftern gate at half-pafl nine, it was near twelve 
 before we arrived at the weftern. 
 
 Although an extraordinary crowd might be expedled to af- 
 femble on fuch a particular occafion, on the fame principle of 
 curiofity as could not fail to attraft a crowd of fpe£lators in 
 London, yet there was a moft remarkable and a ftriking diffe- 
 rence obfervable between a London and a Pekin populace. In 
 the former the whole attention and foul of the multitude would 
 have been wrapt up in the novel fpedacle j all would have 
 been idlers. In Pekin, the fliew was but an acceffary ; every 
 one purfued his bufmefs, at the fame time that he gratified his 
 curiofity. In fadl, it appeared that, on every day throughout 
 the v/hole year, there was the fame noife and buftle and crowd 
 in the capital of China. I fcarcely ever pafled the weftern gate, 
 which happened twice, or oftener, in rhe week, that I had not 
 to wait a confiderable time before the paflage was free, particu- 
 larly in the morning, notwithftanding the exertions of two or 
 three foldiers with their whips to clear the way. The crowd, 
 however, was entirely confined to the great ftreets, which are 
 the only outlets of the city. In the crofs lanes all was fl;ill and 
 quiet. 
 
 Women in Pekin were commonly feen among the crowd, or 
 Vv'alking in the narrow ftreets, or riding on horfeback, which 
 they crofled in the fame manner as the men, but they were all 
 Tartars. They wore long filken robes, reaching down to their 
 feet; their Ihoes appeared to be as much above the common fize, 
 
 o as
 
 ^8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 as thofe of the Chinefe are under it ; the upper part was generally 
 of embroidered fatin, the fole confifted of folds of cloth or pa- 
 per, about an inch thick ; they were fquare in front, and a 
 little turned up. The hair fmoothed up on all fides, not very 
 different from that of the Chinefe ; and though their faces were 
 painted with white lead and vermillion, it was evident their 
 flcins were much fairer than thofe of the former. The Chinefe 
 women are more fcrupuloufly confined to the houfe in the ca- 
 pital than elfewhere. Young girls were fometimes feen fmok- 
 ing their pipes in the doors of their houfes, but they always • 
 retired on the approach of men. 
 
 All the ftreets were covered with fand and duft : none had 
 the leaft pavement. The crofs lanes were generally watered, 
 which did not appear to be the cafe in the main ftreets. A large 
 fheet of water, feveral acres in extent, within the northern wall, 
 affords to that part of the city, and to the palace an abundant 
 fupply of that element, as does alfo a fmall ftream which runs 
 along the weftern wall to that neighbourhood. There are be- 
 fides abundance of wells ; but the water of fome of thefe is fo 
 dreadfully naufeous, that we, who were unaccuftomed to it, 
 were under the neceflity of fending to a diftance to obtain fuch 
 as was free from mineral or earthy impregnations. When mixed 
 with tea, the well water was particularly difgufting. 
 
 Although Pekin cannot boaft, like ancient Rome, or modern 
 London, of the conveniencies of common fewers to carry off 
 the dirt and dregs that muft neceffarily accumulate in large 
 cities, yet it enjoys one important advantage, which is rarely 
 
 I found
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 99 
 
 found In capitals out of England : no kind of filth or naftinefs, 
 creating offenfive fmclls is thrown out into the ftreets, a piece of 
 cleanlinefs that perhaps may he attributed rather to the fcarcity 
 and value of manure, than to the exertions of the police officers. 
 Each family has a large earthen jar, into which is carefully 
 collecfted every thing that may be ufed as manure ; when the 
 jar is full, there is no difficulty of converting its contents into 
 money, or of exchanging them for vegetables. The fame 
 fmall boxed carts with one wheel, which fupply the city with 
 vegetables, invariably return to the gardens with a load of this 
 liquid manure. Between the palace of Tucn-min-yiien and Pe- 
 kin, I have met many hundreds of thefe carts. They are ge- 
 nerally dragged by one perfon, and pulhed on by another ; and 
 they leave upon the road an odour that continues without inter- 
 miffion for many miles. Thus, though the city is cleared of 
 its filth, it feldom lofes its fragrance. In fadl, a conftant dif- 
 gufling odour remains in and about all the houfes the whole 
 day long, from the fermentation of the heterogeneous mixtures 
 kept above ground, which in our great cities arc carried off in 
 drains. 
 
 The medical gentlemen of China are not quite fo ingenious, 
 as we are told the faculty in Madrid were about the middle of 
 the laft century, when the inhabitants were directed, by royal 
 proclamation, to build proper places of retirement to their 
 houfes, inflead of emptying their no£lurnal machines out of 
 the windows into the ftreets. The inhabitants took it into 
 their heads to confider this order as a great affront, and a dired 
 violation of the rights of man j but the dodors were the moft 
 
 o 2 flrenuous
 
 lOO 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ftrenuous oppofers of the meafure, having no doubt very 
 cedent rcafons for wlfliing the continuance of the pradice 
 They affured the inhabitants, that if human excrement was no 
 longer to be accumulated in the ftreets, to attract the putrefcent 
 particles floating in the air, they would find their way into 
 the human body, and a peftilential ficknefs would be the inevit- 
 able confequence. 
 
 The police of the capital, as we afterwards found, is Co well re- 
 gulated, that the fafety and tranquillity of the inhabitants are 
 feldom difturbed. At the end of every crofs ftreet, and at cer- 
 tain diftances in it, are a kind of crofs bars, with fentry boxes 
 at each of which is placed a foldier, and few of thefe ftreets arc 
 without a guard-houfe. Befides, the proprietor or .inhabitant 
 of every tenth houfe, like the ancient tythlngmen of England, 
 takes it in turn to keep the peace, and be refponfible for the 
 good conduct of his nine neighbours. If any riotous company 
 fhould affemble, or any difturbances happen within his diftridt, 
 he is to give immediate information thereof to the neareft guard- 
 houfe. The foldiers alfo go their rounds, and inftead of crying 
 the hour like our watchmen, ftrike upon a fliort tube of bam- 
 boo, which gives a dull hollow found, that for feveral nights 
 prevented us from fleeping until we were accuftomed to it. 
 
 It took us full two hours, as I before obferved, in paffing 
 from the eaftern to the weftern gate of Pckin. The clouds of 
 duft raifed by the populace were here much denfer than on the 
 road, and the fmothering heat of the day, the thermometer in 
 our little carts ftanding at 96% was almoft infupportable. Except 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. lor 
 
 the great crowd on every fide, we faw little to engage the at- 
 tention after the firft five minutes. Indeed, a fingle walk 
 through one of the broad ftreets is quite fufficient to give a 
 ftranger a competent idea of the whole city. He will imme- 
 diately perceive that every ftreet is laid out in the fame manner, 
 and every houfe built upon the fame plan ; and that their archi- 
 tedture is void of tafte, grandeur, beauty, folidity, or conve- 
 nience ; that the houfes arc merely tents, and that there is no- 
 thing magnificent, even in the palace of the Emperor ; — ^but 
 we fhall have occafion to fpeak on this fubjedl hereafter. Afk 
 a Chinefe, however, what is to be feen that is curious or great 
 in the capital, and he will immediately enter upon a long 
 hiftory of the beauties of the palace belonging to Ta-whang-tee^ 
 the mighty Empei'or. According to his notions, every thing 
 within the palace walls is gold and filver. He will tell you of 
 gold and filver pillars, gold and filver roofs, gold and filver 
 vafes, in which are fwimmlng gold and filver fifhes. All, how- 
 ever, is not gold that glitters in China, more than elfewhere. 
 The Emperor, as I fhall hereafter have occafion to notice, has 
 very little furplus revenue at his difpofd, and is frequently dif- 
 treffed for money to pay his army and other exigences of the 
 ftate. And, though China has of late years drawn from Europe 
 a confiderable quantity of fpecie, yet when this is fcattered over 
 fo vaft an extent of country, and divided among fo many millions 
 of people, it becomes almofl: as a drop thrown into the fea. Moll 
 of the money, befides, that enters China is melted down, and 
 converted into articles of luxury or convenience. Few na- 
 tions are better acquainted with the value of thefe precious me- 
 tals than the Chinefe j and few, if any, can fiirpafs their in- 
 genuity
 
 ,^, TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 eenuity in drawing out the one into thin leaves, and the other ^ 
 
 into the fined wire. 
 
 We were not a little overjoyed in finding ouvielves once * 
 
 more upon the flagged caufeway, and in an open country, after 
 paffin"- a finall fuburb beyond the weftern gate of the city. 
 They brought us to a villa which was a kind of appendage to 
 one of the Emperor's palaces, about eight miles beyond Pekin. 
 Thebuildings, confiftingof a number of fmall detached apartments, 
 ilraggling over a furface of ground, about fifteen acres in extent, i 
 
 were neither fufficiently numerous to lodge the fuite, nor to con- 
 tain the prefents and our baggage ; and were moreover fo miferably 
 out of repair and in fo ruinous a condition, that the greater part 
 was wholly uninhabitable. The officers were accordingly told 
 that thefe were not accomodations fuitable to the dignity of a 
 Britifli Embaflador, and that he would not on any confideration 
 put up with them ; that it was a matter of indifference whether 
 he was lodged in the city or the country, but that the lodgings 
 fliould be convenient and proper. The fuperintending offi- 
 cers, upon this, caufed a large temporary building to be ereded 
 with poles and mats, which, as by magic, was finifhed in the 
 eourfe of the night, hoping, by this exertion, to have removed 
 all objeQions to the place. His Lordlhip, however, being de- 
 termined not to remain where there was neither a decent room, 
 nor any kind of comfort or convenience, every building being 
 entirely unfurnifhed, and, as I faid before, the greater number 
 untenantable, infilled upon being removed to Pekin, where ac- 
 cordingly it was very foon announced there was a fuitable houfe 
 ready for h:*- reception. 
 
 On
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 103 
 
 On returning to the capital we pafled through the great ftreet 
 of a town called Ha'i-tien in which moft of the houfes were of 
 two ftories, and before the upper of which was a kind of Ve- 
 randa full of dwarf trees and flower-pots. A great proportion 
 of the houfes were either butchers' fhops or coffin-makers. 
 From the end of this ftreet was a moft extenfive view of Pekin 
 and the furrounding country. The eye from hence took in 
 the whole length of the high ftraight wall with its two lofty- 
 gates and numerous fquare towers. At each angle of the wall 
 is a large fquare building rifmg above the parapet to four heights 
 or ftories of port-holes, and covered with two roofs. In each 
 row of the four fronts are fourteen windows or port-holes.. 
 Thefe I underftood to be the rice magazines or public granaries. 
 Near the north-weft angle is a tall pagoda, another high tower 
 not unlike a glafs-houfe, and towards the higher weftern gate 
 appeared the upper part of a pyramidal building that terminated 
 in a gilded flame, very like the fummit of our monuments under 
 which, inftead of a gallery, was a moft magnificent canopy or 
 umbrella,^ painted and gilt with fuch brilliant colours, that from 
 certain points of view, when the rays of the fun played upon it, 
 the glittering appearance had a very good effedt. It was faid to 
 be a temple, and feenied to be of the fame kind of architedure as 
 the Shoo-ma-doo defcribed by Col. Symes in his embafly to Ava. 
 
 We found our new lodging fufficlently large, but the apartments 
 were fliamefully dirty, having been uninhabited for fome time • 
 very much out of repair, and totally unfurnifhed. This houfe, 
 being confidered as one of the beft in the whole city, I fliall have 
 
 occafion
 
 j>4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 occafion to take notice of hereafter, in fpeaking of the ftat« 
 of their architedure. It was built by the late Ho-poo^ or Col- 
 Icdlor of the cuftoms at Canton, from which fituation he was 
 preferred to the colledtorfhip of fait duties zX.Tieii-fing ; where, it 
 feems, he was detedted in embezzling the public revenues, thrown 
 into jail, and his immenfe property confifcated to the crown. The 
 officers appointed to attend the embafly told us, that when it 
 was propofed to the Emperor for the Englifh Embaflador to oc- 
 cupy this houfe, he immediately replied, " Moft certainly, you 
 " cannot refufe the temporary occupation of a houfe to the 
 " EmbalTador of that nation which contributed fo very amply 
 " towards the expence of building it." The inference to be 
 drawn from fuch a remark, is, that the court of Pekin is well 
 aware of the extortions committed againfl; foreigners at Canton. 
 
 The Emperor being at this time in Tartary, where he meant to 
 celebrate, the feftival of the anniverfary of his birth-day, had gi- 
 ven orders that the public introdudlion of the Britifh Embaflador 
 fhould be fixed for that day, and fhould take place at Gehol, a 
 fmall town 136 miles from Pekin, where he had a large palace, 
 park, gardens, and a magnificent Poo-ta-la or temple of Budha. 
 Accordingly a feledion was made of fuch prefents as were the 
 moft portable, to be fent forwards into Tartary ; and the Em- 
 baflador, with part of his fuite, feveral oflacers of the court, and 
 their retinue, fet out from Pekin on the fecond of September. 
 Some of the gentlemen, with part of the guard and of the 
 fervants, remained in Pekin, and Dr. Dinwiddle and myfelf, 
 with two mechanics, had apartments allotted to us in the 
 palace of Tueii-min-yuen, where the largeft and moft va- 
 luable
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 105 
 
 luable of the prefents were to be fitted up for the infpecllon of 
 the old Emperor on his return from Tartary. 
 
 Having ah'eady acquired fome little knowledge rf the lan- 
 guage on the paffage from England, by the afliftance cf two 
 Chinefe priefts who had been fent by their fuperiors to Naples, 
 for the purpofe of being inflruiled in the Chriftian religion, I 
 hoped to find this temporary banifliment lefs irkfome, particularly 
 as I had prevloufly ftipulated with the officers belonging to that 
 palace for an "unconditional leave to vifit the capital whenever I 
 fhould find it necefTary or proper, during the abfence of the 
 Embaffador ; and, it is but fair to fay, they kept faith to their 
 engagement in the ftri<ftefl: i'enCe. A horfe and one of ihe little 
 covered carts were always at my difpofal. 
 
 The gentlemen left in the city were lefs agreeably fituated. At 
 the outer gate of their lodgings a guard was ftationed with orders 
 to allow none of them to pafs, and all their proceedings and 
 movements were clofely watched. Sometimes they were a little 
 relieved by occafional vifits from the European miffionaries ; 
 but fo fufpicious were the officers of government of any com- 
 munication with thefe gentlemen that they were invariably ac- 
 companied by fome of them to adt as fpies, nptwithilanding 
 they could not comprehend one fingle word that was exchanged 
 in the converfations they held together. A Chinefe has no 
 knowledge whatfoever of any of the European languages. But 
 he watches the adions, and even the motions of the eye, and 
 makes his report accordingly. The courts of the houfe were 
 conftantly filled with the inferior officers -of government and 
 
 p their
 
 io6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 their fervants, all of whom had fome poft or other afligned to 
 them connedcd with the Britifli EmbafTy. One was the fuper- 
 intenilant of the kitchen, another furnifhed tea, one was ap- 
 pointed to fupply us with fruit, another with vegetables, and 
 another with milk. 
 
 During the time I fhould be required to refide in Tuen-tnin- 
 yucn, I particularly wifhed to have none other than Chinefe fer- 
 vants, that I might be under the neceiTity of extending the little 
 knowledge I had already acquired of the fpoken language. This 
 is by no means difficult to learn except in the nice intonations 
 or inflexions of voice, but the written chara£ter is, perhaps of 
 all others, the moft abftrufe and moft perplexing both to the- 
 eye and to the memory. The length of time that is ufually 
 required by the Chinefe, together with the intenfe iludy and 
 ftretch of the micmory which they find neceflary in order to ob- 
 tain a very fmall proportion of the characters that form the lan- 
 guage, are ferious obftrudions to the progrefs of the arts and 
 fciences, but favourable to the ftability of the government of 
 which indeed the language may be confidered as one of the 
 great bulwarks. But the obfervations I have to make on this 
 fubje£t will more properly be referved.for a feparate chapter. 
 
 On arriving at Tiien-m'm-yucn I found a number of Chinefe 
 workmen bufily employed in breakng open the packages, fome 
 in one place and fome in another, to the no little danger of the- 
 globes, clocks, glafs luftres, and fuch like frangible articles, many 
 of which muft inevitably have fuffcred under lefs careful and dex- 
 terous hands than thofe of the Chinefe. As it was intended they 
 
 fliould
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. roy 
 
 ^ould be placed In one large room, the great hall In which the 
 Emperor gives audience to his minlRers, the firft operatioa 
 was to move them all thither, and carefully to unpack them; 
 and we had the fatisfadlion to find that not a fingle article wa« 
 either miffing or injured. 
 
 We had not been long here, before a gentleman appeared 
 who, notwithftanding his Chlnefe drefs, I foon perceived to 
 be an European. He introduced himfelf by faying, in the 
 Latin language, that his name was Deodato a Neapolitan 
 miffionary, and that the court liad appointed him to a.€t as inter- 
 preter ; hoped he might be ufeful to us, and offered his fervice* 
 in the moft handfome manner; and, I have great pleafure in 
 availing niyfelf of this opportunity to acknowledge the friend! j 
 and unremitting attention I received from him during a refi- 
 dence of five weeks in this palace, and the very material affift- 
 ance he afforded in explaining the nature, value, and ufe of the 
 feveral pieces of machinery to tbofe Chlnefe who were ap- 
 pointed to fuperintend them. Signor Deodato was an excellent 
 mechanic ; and in this capacity was employed in the palace to 
 infpe£t and keep in order the numberlefs pieces of clock-work 
 that had found their way thither, chiefly from London. 
 
 The officer appointed to attend us wore a light blue button 
 in his cap, denoting the 4th degree of rank. When he fhewed 
 the apartments that were defigned for us, I could not forbear ob- 
 ferving to him, that they feemed fitter for hogs than for human 
 creatures, and that rather than be obliged to occupy thofe, or any 
 
 P 2. other
 
 loa TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 other like them, I Hioultl for my own part prefer coming clowrt 
 from the capital every morning, and return in the fvuning. Th«y 
 confifted of thi-ee or four hovels in a fm:'l court, furroundcd 
 with a wall as high as their roofs. Each room was about twelve 
 feet fquare, the walls completely ni<ked, the ceiling broken in, 
 the rufhes or ftems of holsiis^ that held the plainer,, hanging 
 down and ftrewed on the floor > the lattice work of the win- 
 dows partially covered with broken paper ;. the doors confi fling 
 of old bamboo (kreens ; the floor covered with duft, and there 
 was not the leaft furniture in any of them, except aa old table 
 and two or three chairs in the one which was intended, I fup- 
 pofe, for the dining-room. The reft had nothing in them whatfo- 
 ever but a little raifed platform of brick- work, which they told us 
 was to fleep on, and that they fhould cover it with mats, and 
 order proper bedding to be brought upon it. Yet thefe mifer- 
 able hovels were not only within the palace wall, but fcarcely 
 two hundred yards from the great hall of audience. The 
 ofiicer afliired us that they were the apartments of one of their 
 Ta-gin (great men) but that, as I did not feem to like them^ 
 we fliould be accommodated with others. We were then 
 carried a little farther, where there was a number of buildings 
 upon a, more extenfive fcale enclofcd alfo by high walls. 
 The apartments were fomewhat larger, but miferably dirty both 
 within and without, and wholly unfurnlQied; but as our at- 
 tendant took care to tell us they belonged to one of the nmi'ifters 
 ofjfate, and that he lodged in them when the Emperor was at 
 Yuen-min-yuen, we were precluded from further complaint. 
 Had we refufed thofe that were confidered fufiicient for 
 a minifter of ftate, the man might have thought that nothing 
 
 lefe
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 109 
 
 lefs than the Emperor's own would have fatlsfied us. If the 
 menial fervants of his Britannic Majcfty's Miuifters were no 
 better lodged than the minifters themfelvcs of his Chinefe Ma- 
 jefty, they would be apt to think themlelves very ill ufed. We 
 accepted them, however, fuch as they were, and caufed them to 
 be fwept out, an operation which had not been performed for 
 many months before ; a table and chairs were brought in, with 
 mats, pillows, and filken mattreffes ; but for thefe we had no 
 occafion, having fortunately brought with us from the flups 
 our own cots. 
 
 To make amends for our uncomfortable lodgings, we fat down 
 to a moft excellent dinner, wholly prepared in the Chinefe ftyle, 
 confifting of a vaft variety of made dllhes very neatly dreflcd, 
 and ferved in porcelain howls. The beft foup I ever tailed in 
 any part of the world was made here from an extradt of beef, 
 feafoned with a prepararion of foy and other ingredients. Their 
 vermicelli is excellent, and all their paftry is unufually light 
 and white as fnow. We underftood it to be made from the buck 
 wheat. The luxury of ice, in the neighbourhood of the capital, 
 is within the reach of the pooreft peafant; and, although they 
 drink cheir tea and other beverage warm, they prefer all kinds of 
 fruit when cooled on ice. 
 
 The three firft days, while the articles were unpacking and 
 afforting, we remained tolerably quiet, being annoyed only 
 with the interference and inquifitivenefs of an old eunuch, who 
 had in h^s train about a dozen of the fame V\x\^fiinHe aitt fecund urn. 
 But no fooner were they taken out of their cafes, and fet up in 
 
 3 the
 
 ,,0 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the room, than vifitors of all ranks, from princes of the-blood 
 to plain citizens, came daily to look at the prefents, but more 
 particularly at us, whom I believe they confidered by much the 
 greateft curiofities. All the men of letters and rank, who held 
 employments in the ftate, and whofe attendance had been dif- 
 penfed with at Gehol, flocked to Tuen-min-yuen. 
 
 Among the numerous vifitors came one day in great ftate 
 the prefident of a board in Pekin, on which the Jefuiis have 
 conferred the pompous but unmerited title of the Tribunal of 
 Mathematics. He was accompanied by a Portuguefe miflionary 
 of the name of Govea, who is the titular Biftiop of Pekin, Padre 
 Antonio, and his fecretary, both Portuguefe, and all three 
 members of the faid tribunal. The particular obj-e6l of their 
 viiit was to make themfelves fully acquainted with the nature 
 and ufe of the feveral prefents that related to fcience, and efpe- 
 cially of the large planetarium, which had already made a^reat 
 noife in China, in order that they might be able to give a pro- 
 per defcription and explanation to his Imperial Majefty, both 
 of this inftrument, and of all the others connedled with their 
 department, and to anfwer any queftion concerning them that 
 might be afked. 
 
 It created no foit of furprize to anv of us, on finding that the 
 Chinele who accompanied thefe reverend gentlemen were 
 completely ignorant of the nature of a complicate machine, 
 whole motions, regulated by the moft ingenious mechanifm 
 that had ever been conftruded in Europe, reprefented all thofe 
 cveu of the moft irregular and eccentric of the heavenly bodies ; 
 
 nor
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. xit 
 
 nor in perceiving that they feemed to be rather difappolnted In 
 the appearance and operations of this Inflrument. It was ob- 
 vious, from the few queftlons put by the prcfident of this learned 
 body, that he had conceived the planetarium to be fomethlng 
 fimilar to one of thofe curious pieces of mufical mechanlfm 
 which, in the Canton jargon, are called Slngjhngs, and that 
 nothing mere was neceiTary than to wind it up like a jack, 
 when it would immediately fpin round, and tell him every thing 
 that he wanted to know. 
 
 But the difficulty of making the right reverend Bifhop and 
 his colleagues comprehend the principles upon which it was- 
 Gonftrud:ed, and the feveral phenomena of the heavenly bodies 
 exhibited by it, conveyed almofl: as bad an opinion of their aftro- 
 nomical and mathematical knowledge as of that of their prefident. 
 The prelate, however, appeared to be a man of mild and placid 
 temper, pleafing manners, and of a modefl: and unalTuming 
 deportment. His fecretary was a keen fharp fellow, extremely 
 inqulfitive, and refolved not to lofe the little knowledge he 
 might acquire, for he wrote down the anfwer to every queftion 
 that was propofed. 
 
 •1 ' 
 The following day the Blfliop came unattended by the Chlnefe 
 
 part of their board, and gave us fome account of the nature of 
 
 their employ. The aftronomical part of the national almanack, 
 
 fuch as calculating eclipfes, the times of new and full moon, 
 
 the rifing and fetting of the fun, were, as he informed us, en- 
 
 trufted to him and his colleagues, but the aftrological part waS' 
 
 managed by a committee of the Chinefe members. He candidly 
 
 , avowed
 
 in TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 avowed that neither he nor any of his European brethren were 
 well qualified for the taflc, and that they had been hitherto 
 more indebted to the Cotmoilfances de terns of Paris than to their 
 own calculations. That having exadly afcertained the diffe- 
 rence of meridians between Pekin and Paris, they had Httle dif- 
 ficulty in reducing the calculations made for the latter, fo as to 
 anfwer for the fituation of the former, at leaft to a degree of 
 accuracy that was fufficiently near the truth not to be deteded 
 by any of the Chinefe members. 
 
 The French revolution having put an end to future commu- 
 nications with that country was to them a fevere blow in this 
 refpcdt, though the fecretary thought he could now manage the 
 calculation of an eclipfe fufficiently corre£t to pafs current with 
 the Chinefe. Fortunately, however, Dodor Dinwiddle had 
 provided himfclf on leaving London with a fet of the nautical 
 almanacks, calculated for the meridian of Greenwich, up to 
 the year 1800, which they confidered as an invaluable prefent. 
 
 The grandfons of the Emperor were almoft daily vifitors. It 
 feems there is a kind of college in the palace for their education. 
 Though young men from the ages of fixteen to five-and-twenty, 
 the old eunuch ufed frequently to pufh them by the fhoulders 
 out of the hall of audience ; and, on exprefling my furprife 
 to Deodato at fuch infolence, he informed me that he was their 
 aya^ their governor! 
 
 We had alfo a great number of Tartar generals and military 
 officers who had heard of fword-blades that would cut iron 
 
 bars
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. nj 
 
 bars without injuring the edge ; and fo great was their aftonifh- 
 ment on proving the fad, that ihey could fcarcely credit the 
 evidence of their own eyes. We could not confer a more ac- 
 ceptable prefent on a military officer than one of Gill's fword- 
 . blades ; and from the eager applications made for them, as we 
 pafTed through the country, the introduction of them through 
 •Canton, in the regular courle of trade, would, I fhould fuppofe, 
 be no difficult tafk. 
 
 But the two elegant carriages made by Hatchett puzzled the 
 Chinefe more than any of the other preients. Nothing of the 
 kind had ever been feen at the capital ; and the difputes among 
 themfelves as to the part which was intended for the feat of the 
 Emperor were whimfical enough. The hammer-cloth that co- 
 vered the box of the winter carriage had a fmart edging, and 
 was ornamented with feftoons of rofes. Its fplendid appearance 
 and elevated fituation determinated it at once, in the opinion of 
 the majority, to be the Emperor's feat ; but a difficulty arofe 
 how to appropriate the infide of the carriage. They examined 
 •the windows, the blinds, and the fkreens, and at laft concluded, 
 that it could be for nobody but his ladies. The old eunuch 
 came to me for information, and when he learned that the fine 
 elevated box was to be the feat of the man who managed the 
 horfes, and that the Emperor's place was within, he aiked me, 
 Vv'ith a fneer, if I fuppoled the Ta-wbang-tee would fuffer any 
 man to fit higher than himfelf, and to turn his back towards 
 him? and he wifhed to know if we could not contrive to have 
 the coach-box removed and placed fomewhere behind the body 
 of the carriage. . • 
 
 0^ A reijiark-
 
 ,14 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 A remarkable circumflancc, not eafily to be accounted for, 
 occurred in opening a cafk of Birmingham hardware. Every 
 one knows the necefTity of excluding the fea-air as much as 
 pofllbic Atom highly polifhed articles of iron and fteel, and ac- 
 cordingly m fuch articles intended to be fent abroad are packed 
 with the greateft care. The cafks, or cafes, are made as tight 
 as poflible and- covered with pitched canvas. Such was the 
 cafk in queftion. Yet, when the head was taken off, and a few 
 of the packages' removed, an enormous large fcorpion was 
 found in the midft of the cafk, nearly in a torpid ftate, but it 
 quickly recovered on expofure to the warm air. 
 
 " The thing we know is neither rich nor rare, 
 • " But wonder how the devil it got there V 
 
 Among the prefents carried into Tartary was a colledlon of 
 prints, chiefly portraits of Englifh nobility and diftinguifhed 
 perfons ; and to make the prefent more acceptable, they were 
 bound up in three volumes in yellow ?vlorocco. The Emperor 
 was fo pleafed with this collection, that he fent it exprefs to 
 Tucn-mm-yue7i to have the name, I'ank, and ofBce of each por- 
 trait tranflated into the Mantchoo and Chinefe languages. The 
 Tartar writer got on pretty well, but the Chinefe fecretary was 
 not a little puzzled with the B, the D, and the R, that fo fre- 
 quently recurred in the Englifh names. The Duke of Marl- 
 borough was Too-ke Ma-ul-po-loo ^ and Bedford was transformed 
 to Pete-fo-ul-te. But here a more ferious difficulty occurred than 
 that of writing the name. The rank was alfo to be written 
 down, and on coming to the portrait of this nobleman, (which 
 was a proof impreffion of the print, engraved from a pidure by 
 
 Sir
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 115 
 
 Sir Jofhua Reynolds, when the late Duke of Bedford was a 
 youth,) 1 told the Chincfe to write him down a Ta-gin^ or great 
 man of the fecond order. He inftantly obferved that I furely 
 meant his father was a Ta-g'm. I then explained to him that, 
 according to our laws, the fon fucceeded to the rank of the fa- 
 ther, and that with us it was by no means neceflary, In order 
 to obtain the firft; rank in the country, that a man fhould be of 
 a certain age, be poffefled of fuperior talents, or fuitable quali- 
 fications. That thefe were fometimes conducive to high ho- 
 nours, yet that a great part of the legiflative body of the na- 
 tion were entitled to their rank and fituation by birth. They 
 laughed heartily at the idea of a man being born a leglflator, 
 when it required fo many years of clofe application to enable 
 one of their countrymen to pafs his examination for the very 
 loweft order of ftate-ofEcers. As, however, the defcendants of 
 Confucius continue to enjoy a fort of nominal rank, and a& 
 their Emperor can alfo confer an hereditary dignity, without 
 entitling to office, emolument, or exclufive privilege, they 
 confidered his Grace might be one of this defcription, and 
 wrote down his rank accordingly ; but. they pofitively refufed to 
 give him the title of Ta-gin^ or great man, afking me, if I 
 thought their Emperor was fo ftupid as not to know the impof- 
 •fibility of a little boy having attained the rank of & great man. 
 
 About the 14th of September, or three days before the Empe- 
 ror's birth-day. Padre Anfelmo^ the procurator for the miffion 
 dc propaganda jide^ delivered me letters from Macao for the Em- 
 bafiador, which the Chinefe refufed to fend to Gehol, though 
 daily exprefles went to and from that place. Anfelmo hinted to 
 
 0^2 me
 
 ,,6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 me that the late viceroy of Canton, who was no friend to the 
 Englifh, had arrived, and that he feared all was not right. That 
 the Tartar legate had been degraded from his rank for deceiving 
 the Emperor, and particularly for not paying his perfonal re- 
 fpeds to the Embaffador on board his fhip when in Tien-ftng 
 roads. That the peacock's feather, which he wore in his cap 
 as a mark of his matter's favour, was exchanged for a crow's 
 tail, the fign of great difgrace, and that the confideration of 
 his age and his family had alone faved him from banifhment. 
 The Emperor, it feems, having heard that the Embaflador had 
 his pldure in his cabin on board the Lion, afked the legate 
 whether it was like him, upon which it came out that he had 
 never been near the Lion, as his orders directed him. 
 
 On the 17th, being the Emperor's birth-day, all the princes 
 and officers about the palace aflembled in their robes of cere- 
 mony, to make their obeifance to the throne in the great 
 hall of audience. On this occafion were placed on the floor 
 before the throne, on three fmall tripods, a cup of tea, of oil, 
 and of rice, perhaps as an acknowledgment of the Emperor be- 
 ing the proprietary of the foil, of which thefe are three material 
 produdis. The old eunuch told me that I might remain in 
 the hall during the ceremony, if I would confent to perform it 
 with them, and offered to inftrud me in it. He faid that all 
 the officers of government, in every part of the empire, made 
 their proftrations to the name of the Emperor infcribed on yel- 
 low filk on that day. 
 
 Twa
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 117 
 
 Two days after this, on going as ufual In the morning to the hall 
 of audience, I found the doors (hut and the old eunuch, who kept 
 the keys, walking about in fo fullen a mood that I could not get 
 from him afingle word. Different groupes of officers were aflem- 
 bled in the court-yard, all looking as if fomething very dreadful 
 either had occurred, or was about to happen. Nobody would 
 fpeak to me, nor could I get the leaft explanation of this extraor- 
 dinary condud, till at length our friend Deodato appeared with 
 a countenance no lefs woeful than thofe of the officers of govern- 
 ment, and the old eunuch. I a&ed him what was the matter ? 
 His anfwer was, We are all loft, ruined, and undone ! He 
 then informed me that intelligence had arrived from GehoJ, 
 ftating, that Lord Macartney had refufed to comply with the 
 ceremony of proftrating himfelf, like the EmbafTadors of tribu- 
 tary princes, nine times before the Emperor, unlefs one of 
 equal rank with himfelf fhould go through the fame ceremony 
 before the portrait of his Britannic Majefty : that rather than 
 do this they liad accepted his offer to perform the fame ce- 
 remony of refpedl to the Emperor as to his own fovereign. 
 That although little was thought of this affair at Gehol, the 
 great officers of ftate in the tribunal or department of ceremo- 
 nies in Pekin were mortified, and perplexed, and alarmed ; and 
 that, in fhort, it was impoffible to fay what might be the confe- 
 quence of an event unprecedented in the annals of the empire. 
 That the Emperor, when he began to think more ferioufly on the 
 fubjeft, might poffibly impeach thofe before the criminal tribu- 
 nal who had advifed him to accede to fuch a propofa), on re- 
 flcding how much his dignity had fuffered by the compliance; 
 and that the records of the country might hand it down to pof- 
 
 I ' terity,
 
 nS TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 terity, as an event that had tarnlflied the luftre of his reign, be- 
 ine nothing ftiort of breaking through an ancient cuftom, and 
 adopting one of a barbarous nation in its place. Deodato 
 thought even that its ill effedls might extend to them, as Euro- 
 peans, and might injure the caufe which was the firft obje£t of 
 their mlflion. 
 
 I found it in vain to put into good humour that day either 
 the officers of government, or the eunuchs, or even the mif- 
 fionaries ; and our table was very materially affeiled by it, both 
 in the number and the quality of difhes ; — a criterion from 
 which, more than any other, a judgment may be formed of 
 the ftate of mind in which a Chinefe happens to be. Some- 
 thing of the fame kind, it feems, occurred at Gehol. From 
 the time the EmbalTador began' to make conditions, his table 
 was abridged, under an idea that he might be ftarved into an 
 unconditional compliance. Finding this experiment fail, they 
 had recourfe to a different conduct, and became all kindnefs and 
 complalfance. 
 
 The ill-humour occafioned by the news from Gehol gradually 
 wore off, but I obferved that the princes who had hitherto 
 been daily vifitors now kept entirely away ; and the old eunuch, 
 when put out of his way, ufed to apply to us the epithet of 
 proud, headftrong Englifhmen. 
 
 On the 26th the EmbalTador (during whofe flay at Gehol 
 in Tartary an account of all that paffed there is given in Sir 
 George Staunton's book) returned to Pekin, when the re- 
 mainder
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 119 
 
 mainder of the prefents were fent to Yuen-min-yuen. A num- 
 ber of Tartar princes and great officers of ftate came to look 
 at thofe fitted up in the hall of audience, and fcemed extremely 
 folicitous that the whole fliould be got ready without delay. 
 Notice was alfo given that, on the 30th the Emperor would 
 infpedl the prefents. This was the day fixed for his return, 
 and it was notifidti to the Embaflador that it was an ufual 
 compliment for all public officers to meet him on the road, at 
 the diftance of ten or twelve miles from the capital. Accord'- 
 ingly, about four o'clock in the morning of the 30th, we were 
 all mounted and arrived at our ground about fix. The whole 
 road had been newly made, rolled as level as a bowling-green, 
 watered to keep down the duft and, on each fide, at the dif- 
 tance of about fifty yards from each other, were fmall triangular 
 poles erected, from which were fufpended painted lanterns. 
 
 They brought us into a kind of guard-houfe, where tea and 
 other refrefhments were prepared, after which we took our fta- 
 tion on a high bank on the left of the road. On each fide, as 
 far as the eye could reach, were feveral thoufands of the great 
 officers of ftate in their habits of ceremony ; Tartar troops in 
 their holiday drefles ; ftandard-bearers without number, mili- 
 tary mufic^ and officers of the houfehold, lining the two fides 
 of the road. The approach of the Emperor was announced by 
 a blaft of the trumpet, followed by fofter mufic, " and at that 
 " time when all the people heard the found of the cornet, flutes, 
 *' harp, fackbut, pfaltery, and all kinds of mufic, then the 
 " princes, the governors, and captains, the judges, the trea- 
 " furers, the counfellors, the Iheriffs, and all the rulers of the 
 
 " provinces.
 
 ,2o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 *' provinces, that were gathered together, fell down and wor- 
 *' fhipped," except certain flrangers, who, being obflinately 
 refolved to do no greater homage to any fovereign th^ what is 
 required by iheir own fovereign, bent one knee only to the 
 ground. 
 
 The Emperor was carried by eight men in a kind of fedan 
 chair, which was followed by a clumfey ftate chariot upon two 
 wheels, and without fprings. He bowed very gracioufly to the 
 Embaffador as he pafled, and fent a meffage to him to fay that, 
 underftanding he was not well, he advifed him to return im- 
 mediately to Pekin, and not to flop at Yuen-min-yuen, as was 
 intended. 
 
 The morning being very cold, we were defirous to get home 
 as faft as we could ; and accordingly galloped along with foffie of 
 the Tartar cavalry. When we arrived under the walls of Pekin, 
 we turned our horfes towards a different gate to that through 
 which we were accuflomed to pafs, in order to fee a little 
 more of the city. But one of our condudors, who had 
 thought it his duty not to lofe fight of us; in perceiving us 
 making a wrong turn, hallowed out with all his might. We 
 pufhed forward, however, and got through the gate, but we 
 were purfued with fuch a hue and cry, that we were glad to 
 efcape through one of the crofs ftreets leading to our hotel, 
 where we arrived with at leaft a hundred foldiers at our 
 heels. 
 
 On
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 121 
 
 On the ift of (pdober the Emperor, attended by a Tartar, 
 infpeded the prefents in the hall of audience ant}, examined 
 them with minute attention. He defired the Tartar prince to 
 tell us, through Deodato, that the accounts he had received 
 of our good condudt at Yuen-mhi-ytien gave him great pleafure, 
 and that he had ordered a prefent to be made to each of us, as 
 a proof of his entire fatisfadtion. This prefent was brought, 
 after his departure from the hall, by the old eunuch, who took 
 care to tell us that before we received it we muft make nine 
 proftrations according to the Chlnefe cuftom. I made him no 
 anfwer, but requefted Deodato to explain to the Tartar prince, 
 who was ftill prefent, that being under the orders of the Em- 
 baflador \\& did not think ourfelves authorized to do what he 
 had found good to refufe, but that we had not the lead objedlion 
 to go through the fame ceremony that he ha4 done at GehoJ. 
 The Tartar prince immediately anfwered that nothing further 
 was required. We accordingly placed one knee on the lowed 
 ftep leading to the throne. The prefent confided of rolls 
 of filk and feveral pieces of filver cad in the form of a 
 Tartar Ihoe, without any mark or infcription on them, and each 
 about the weight of an ounce. 
 
 The prefents being now all delivered, and the EmbalTador 
 informed by the miflionarles that preparations were making for 
 our departure, the ufual time being nearly expired, his Excel- 
 lency was defirous of having the day fixed, and for this pur- 
 pofe dlfpatched a note to the fird minider, who fent an an- 
 fwer by the Tartar legate to inform him that, to prevent any 
 likelihood of being furprized by the approaching bad weather, 
 
 R the
 
 12S 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the Emperor had named the 7th inftant for^the beginning of 
 our journey; and had given orders that every honour and diC- 
 tindion Ihould be paid to the Embafly on the road. 
 
 But before I quit thefe renowned gardens of Yuen-min-yuen^ 
 it will naturally be expelled I {hould fay fomething on their fub- 
 jed. From all that I had heard and read of the grandeur and 
 beauty of the fcenery and the magnificence of palaces, I had' 
 certainly expedled to meet with a (tyle of gardening and laying 
 out of grounds fuperior, or at leaft equal, to any thing in the 
 fame line in Europe ; and, perhaps indeed, I might have been 
 fully gratified in all my expectations provided no reftraint had' 
 been thrown upon our walks, which was far from being the 
 cafe. All the Httle excurfions I made were by fliealth. Even 
 in the fhort diftance between the hall of audience and our lodg- 
 ings, which might be about three hundred paces, we were con- 
 tinually watched. The idea of being flopped by an eunuch or 
 fome of the inferior officers belonging to the court, was fuffici- 
 ent to put us on our guard againft meeting with any fuch morti- 
 fication ;. pride, in fuch circumftances, generally gets the better 
 of the defire, however ftrong, of gratifying curiofity. I fome- 
 times, however, ventured to ftroll from our lodging in the even- 
 ing in order to take a ftolen glance at thefe celebrated gardens. 
 
 The grounds of Tuen-7nh-y?ie)i are calculated to comprehend 
 an extent of at leaft ten Engli(h miles in diameter, or about 
 fixty thcufand acres, a great part of which, however, is waftes 
 and woodland. The general appearance of thofe parts near 
 where we lodged, as to the natural furface of the country, bro- 
 ken
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. laj 
 
 ken Into hill and dale, and diverfified with wood and lawri, 
 may be compared with Richmond park, to which, however, they 
 add the very great advantage of abundance of canals, rivers, and 
 large fheets of water, whofe banks, although artificial, are neither 
 trimmed, nor fhorn, nor floped, like the glacis of a fortification, 
 but have been thrown up with immenfe labour in an irregular, 
 and, as it were, fortuitous manner, fo as to reprefent the free 
 hand of nature. Bold rocky promontories are feen jutting into 
 a lake, and vallies retiring, feme choaked with wood, others 
 in a ftate of high cultivation. In particular fpots where plea- 
 fure-houies, or places of reft or retirement, were ereded, the 
 views appeared to have been ftudied. The trees were not only 
 placed according to their magnitudes, but the tints of their 
 foliage feemed alfo to have been confidered in the compofition 
 of the pidure, which fome of the landfcapes might be called 
 with great propriety. But, if an opinion may be formed froin 
 thofe parts of them which I have feen, and I underftood there 
 is a great fimilarity throughout the whole, they fall very fhort 
 of the fanciful and extravagant defcriptions that Sir William 
 Chambers has given of Chinefe gardening. Much, however, 
 has been done, and nothing that I faw could be confidered as 
 an offence to nature. 
 
 Thirty diftin£t places of refidtence for the Emperor, with all the 
 iiecefl'ary appendages of building to each, for lodging the feve- 
 ral officers of ftat^e, who are required to be prefent on court 
 days and particular occafions, for the eunuchs, fervants, and 
 ^iriificers, each compofing a village of no inconfiderable magni- 
 aide, are faid to be <;ontained within the inclofure of thefe gar- 
 
 R 2 dens.
 
 ,34 TRAVELS IN CHINA; 
 
 dens. Thcfe aflemblages of buildings, which they dignify with 
 the name of palaces, are, however, of fuch a nature as to be 
 more remarkable for their number than for their fplendour 
 or magnificence. A great proportion of the buildings confifts 
 in mean cottages. The very dwelling of the Emperor and the 
 grand hall In which he gives audience, when diverted of the gild- 
 ing and the gaudy colours with which they are daubed, are 
 little fuperior, and much lefs folid, than the barns of a fub- 
 ftantial Englifh farmer. Their apartments are as deficient in 
 proportion, as their conftru£tion is void of every rule and prin- 
 ciple which we are apt to confider as effential to architedlure. 
 The principal hall of audience at Yuen-min-yuen flood upon a 
 platform of granite, raifed about four feet above the level of the 
 court. A row of large wooden columns, furrounding the build- 
 ing fupported the projeding roof; and a fecond row within 
 the firft, and correfponding with it (the interftices between 
 the columns being filled up with brick-work to the height of 
 about four feet) ferved for the walls of the room. The upper 
 part of thefe walls was a kind of lattice-work, covered over 
 with large fheets of oiled paper, and was capable of being 
 thrown entirely open on public occafions. The wooden co- 
 lumns had no capitals, and the only architrave was the hori- 
 zontal beam that fupported the rafters of the roof. This, in 
 dired contradidion to the eftablifhed mode in European arehi- 
 tedure, was the uppermoft member of what might be called 
 the entablature or frize, which was a broad ftreen of wood, 
 fattened between the upper part of the columns, painted with 
 the moft vivid colours of blue, red, and green, and interlarded 
 with gilding ; and the whole had net- work of wire ftretched 
 
 over
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA.' 125 
 
 over it, to prevent its being defiled by fwallows, and other 
 birds frequenting human dwellings. The length of this room 
 within was one hundred and tea feet, breadth forty- two, and 
 height twenty feet : the ceiling painted with circles, fquares, and 
 polygons, whimfically difpofed, and loaded with a great variety 
 of colours. The floor was paved with grey marble flag flones 
 laid chequer-v/ife. The throne, placed in a recefs, was fup- 
 ported by rows of pillars painted red like thofe without. It 
 confilted entirely of wood, not unlike mahogany, the carving 
 of which was exquifitely fine. The only furniture was a pair 
 of brafs kettle drums, two large paintings, two pair of ancient 
 blue porcelain vafes, a few volumes of manufcripts, and a table 
 at one end of the room on which was placed an old Englifh 
 chiming clock, made in the feventeenth century by one Clarke 
 ofLeadenhall-flreet, and which our old friend the eunuch had 
 the impudence to tell us was the workmanlhip of a Chinefe. A 
 pair of circular fans made of the wing feathers of the Aro-us 
 pheafant, and mounted on long polifhed ebony poles flood, one 
 on each fide of the throne, over which was written in four cha- 
 radters, " true, great, refulgent, fplendor ;" and under thefe, 
 in a lozenge, the charader of Happinefs. In the different courts 
 .were feveral miferable attempts at fculpture, and fome bronze 
 figures, but all the objects were fanciful, diftorted, and entirely 
 out of nature. The only fpecimen of workmanfhip about the 
 palace, that would bear a clofe examination, befides the carv- 
 ing of the throne, was a brick wall enclofing the flower gar- 
 den, which, perhaps, in no refped is exceeded by any thing of 
 the fort in England. 
 
 With
 
 ,,6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 With regard to the architedlure and gardening of the Chlnefe, 
 it may be expeded that I fhould give a more detailed defcrip- 
 tion, or offer fome opinion on thofe fubjeds. The little I 
 have to fay on the former will be referved for another place ; 
 and, with refped to the latter, I regret that I had not an oppor- 
 tunity of feeing fo much as I could have vi'ifhed, and particu- 
 larly the Emperor's great park at Gehol, which, from the de- 
 fcription of the Embaffador, feemed to be almoft unrivalled for 
 its features of beauty, fublimity, and amenity. But my own 
 deficiency will be amply filled up with an extrad or two from 
 the Journal of his Lordftiip, whofe tafte and fkill in landfcape 
 gardening are fo well known. I have indeed much to regret 
 that I could not enrich the prefent work with more extrads 
 from it, but as it makes a complete pidure of itfeif the partial 
 feledion of detached parts might have been injurious to it, by 
 conveying wrong imprelfions, when unconneded with the reft. 
 I am, therefore, the more obliged (and gladly embrace this op- 
 portunity of exprefllng the obligations I feel) to his Lordftiip, for 
 what little he has allowed me to tranfcribe. 
 
 Speaking of the route from Pekin to Gehol in Tartary, Lord 
 Macartney obferves : '* Our journey, upon the whole, has been 
 *' very pleafant and, being divided into feven days, not at all 
 *' fatiguing. At the end of every ftage we have beeti lodged 
 *' and entertained in the wings or houfes adjoining to the Em- 
 " peror's palaces. Thefe palaces, which occur at fliort dif- 
 *' tances from each other on the road, have been built for his 
 *' reception, on his annual vifit to Tartary. They are con- 
 *' ftruded upon nearly the fame plan and in the fame tafte. 
 
 *' They
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 127 
 
 ** They front the fouth, and are ufually fituated on irregular 
 " ground near the bafis of gentle hills which, together with 
 " ther adjoining vallies, are enclofed by high walls and laid 
 " out in parks and pleafure grounds, with every poffible atten- 
 *' tion to pidturefque beauty. Whenever water can be brought 
 " into the view it is not negleded ; the diftant hills are planted, 
 " cultivated, or left naked, according to their accompaniments 
 " in the profpeit. The wall is often concealed in a funk fence, 
 " in order to give an idea of greater extent. A Chinefe gar- 
 •' dener is the painter of nature, and though totally ignorant of 
 ** perfpedive, as a fcience, produces the happieft eiie£ts by the 
 " management, or rather pencilling, of diftances, if I may ufe 
 *' the expreffion, by relieving or keeping down the features 
 *' of the fcene, by contrafting trees of a bright with thofe of a 
 " duffcy foliage, by bringing them forward, or throwing them 
 ** back, according to their bulk and their figure, and by intro- 
 " ducing buildings of different dimenfions, either heightened by 
 " ftrong colouring, or foftened by fimplicity and omiffion of 
 " ornament. 
 
 '* The Emperor having been informed that, in the eourfe of 
 " our travels in China we had fliewn a (irong delire of feeing 
 " every thing curious and interefting, was pleafed to give dr- 
 ** re,£lions to the firft mlnlfter to llievv^ us his park or garden at 
 ** Gehol. It is called in Chinefe V an-Jhoo-ynen^ or Paradife of 
 ** ten thoufand (or innumerable) trees. In order to have this 
 ** gratification (which is confidered as an inftance of uncom- 
 ** mon favour) we rofe this morning at three o'clock and went 
 **^ to the palace 'where we waited, mixed with all ilw; great of- 
 
 " ficers
 
 i: 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 *' ficers cf ftate, for three hours (fuch is the etiquette of the 
 
 " place) till the Emperor's appearance. At laft he catne forth, 
 
 " borne in the ufual manner by fixteen perfons on a high open 
 
 " palankeen, attended by guards, mufic, ftandards, and um- 
 
 " I)rcllas without number ; and obferving us, as we flood in 
 
 " the front line, gracloufly beckoned us to approach, having 
 
 " ordered his people to flop ; he entered into converfation 
 
 " with us ; and, with great affability of manner, told us that 
 
 " he was on his way to thq pagoda, where he ufually paid his 
 
 " morning devotions ; that as we profeffed a different religion 
 
 " from his he would not afk us to accompany him, but that 
 
 " he had ordered his firfl mlnifter and chief Colaos to conduct 
 
 " us through his garden, and to fhew us whatever we were de- 
 
 " firous of feeing there. 
 
 " Having expreffed my fenfe of this mark of his condefcen- 
 
 " fion in the proper manner, and my increafing admiration of 
 
 " every thing I had yet obferved at Gehol, I retired and, 
 
 " whilfl he proceeded to his adorations at the pagoda, I accom- 
 
 " panied the miniflers and other great Colaos of the court to 
 
 *' a pavilion prepared for us, from whence, after a fhort colla- 
 
 " tion, we fet out on horfeback to view this wonderful garden. 
 
 *' "We rode about three miles through a very beautiful park kept 
 
 *' in the highefl order and much refembling the approach to 
 
 " Luton in Bedfordfhire ; the grounds gently undulated and 
 
 ■" chequered with various groupes of well contrafted trees la 
 
 *' the ofFskip. As we moved onward an extenfive lake ap- 
 
 " peared before us, the extremities of which feemed to lofe 
 
 " themfelves in diftance and obfcurity. Here was a large and 
 
 3 " magnilicenr-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 129 
 
 '* magnificent yacht ready to receive us, and a number of 
 " fnialler ones for the attendants, elegantly fitted up and 
 " adorned with numberlefs vanes, pendants, and ftreamers. 
 " The fliores of the lake have all the varieties of fliape, which 
 •' the fancy of a painter can delineate, and are fo indented with 
 " bays, or broken with projedions, that almoft every ftroke of 
 " the oar brought a new and unexpe£lcd object to our view. 
 " Nor are iflands wanting, but they are fituated only where 
 *' they fhould be, each in its proper place and having its 
 " proper character : one marked by a pagoda, or other 
 *' building; one quite defiitute of ornament; fome fmooth 
 " and level; fome fteep and uneven;' and others frowning 
 " with wood, or fmiling with culture. Where any things 
 " particularly interefting were to be fecn we difembarked, from 
 " time to time, to vifit them, and I dare fay that, in the 
 " courfe of our voyage, we flopped at forty or fifty diffe- 
 " rent palaces or pavilions. Thefe are all furniihed in the 
 " richeft manner with pidiures of the Emperor's huntings 
 " and progreffes, with ftupendous vafes of jafper and agate ; 
 " with the fineft porcelain and Japan, and with every kind 
 *' of European toys and fing'fo7igs ; with fpheres, orreries, 
 " clocks, and mufical automatons of fuch exquifite vrork- 
 " manfhip, and in fuch profufion, that our prefents muft 
 " Ihrink from the comparlfon, and hide their d'tjni?iiJJ:ed heads ; 
 " and yet I am told, that the fine things we have feen are far 
 " exceeded by others of the fame kind in the apartments of the 
 " ladies, and in the European repofitory at Viien-vmi-yuen, In 
 " every one of the pavilions was a throne, or imperial ftate, 
 " and a Eu-joii, or fymbol of peace and profperity, placed at 
 
 s " one
 
 ,30 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 « one fide of it refembling that which the Emperor delivered 
 " to me yefterday for the king. 
 
 " It would be an endlefs talk were I to attempt a detail of 
 
 " all the wonders of this charming place. There is no 
 
 " beauty of dillribution, no feature of amenity, no 
 
 " reach of fancy which embellifhes our pleafure grounds in 
 
 " England, that is not to be found here. Had China been 
 
 " acceffible to Mr. Browne or Mr. Hamilton, I fliould have 
 
 " fworn they had drawn their happieft ideas from the rich 
 
 " fources, which I have tafted this day ; for in the courfe of a 
 
 " few hours I have enjoyed iuch viciffitudes of rural de- 
 
 " light, as I did not conceive could be felt out of England, being 
 
 *' at different moments enchanted by fcenes perfcdly fimilar to 
 
 " thofe I had known there, to the magnificence of Stowe, the 
 
 •' fofter beauties of Wooburn, and the fairy-land of Paine's 
 
 « Hill. 
 
 " One thing I was particularly ftruck with, I mean the happy 
 " choice of fituation for ornamental buildings. From attentioa 
 " to this circumflance they have not the air of being crowded 
 " or difproportioned ; they never intrude upon the eye j but 
 " wherever they appear always fhewthemfelves to ad vantage, and 
 " aid, improve, and enliven the profpedt. 
 
 " In many places the lake is overfpread with the Nenuphar 
 " or lotus (nelumbium) refembling our broad leaved water lilly. 
 " This is an accompaniment which, though the Chinefe are 
 " paffionately fond of, cultivating it in all their pieces of water, 
 
 I " I con-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 131 
 
 « I confefs I don't much admire. Artificial rocks and ponds 
 
 " with gold and filver fifh are perhaps too often introduced, 
 
 " and the monftrous porcelain figures of lions and tygers, 
 
 " ufually placed before the pavilions, are difpleafing to an Eu- 
 
 " ropean eye ; but thefe are trifles of no great moment ; and 
 
 " I am aftonifhed that now, after a fix hours critical furvey of 
 
 " thefe gardens, I can fcarcely recoiled any thing befides to find 
 
 " fault with. 
 
 " At our taking leave of the minifter, he told us that we had 
 " only feen the eaftern fide of the gardens, but that the weft- 
 *' ern fide, which was the larger part ftill remained for him to 
 •♦ fhew us, and that he fliould have that pleafure another 
 « day. 
 
 " Accordingly, on the day of the Emperor's anniverfary fef- 
 " tival, after the ceremony was ended, the firft or great Colao 
 " Ho-chun-tong^ the Foo-leott.^ the Foo-leous brother Foo-chan-tong^ 
 " and Song-ta-g'in^ with the other great men v/ho attended us 
 " two days fince, in our vifit to the eaftern garden, now pro- 
 ** pofed to accompany us to the weftern, which forms a ftrong 
 " contraft with the other, and exhibits all the fublimer beauties 
 " of nature in as high a degree as the part which we faw before 
 " poffefles the attradlons of foffnefs and amenity. It is one 
 " of the fineft foreft-fcenes in the world ; wiUl, woody, mount- 
 *' ainous and rocky, abounding with flags and deer of different 
 " fpecies, and moft of the other beafts of the chace, not dan- 
 " gerous to man. 
 
 s 2 " In
 
 13* 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " In many places immenfe woods, chiefly oaks, pines, and 
 
 •' chernuts, grow upon almoft perpendicular fteeps, and force 
 
 " their fturdy roots through every refiftance of furface and of 
 
 " foil, where vegetation would feem almoft impofTible. Thefe 
 
 " woods often clamber over the loftieft pinnacles of the ftony 
 
 " hills, or gathering on the fkirts of them, defcend with a rapid 
 
 " fwecp, and bury themfelves in the deepeft vallies. There, at 
 
 " proper diftances, you find palaces, banquetting boufes, and 
 
 *' monafteries, (but without bonzes) adapted to the fituation 
 
 " and peculiar circumftances of the place, fometimes with a 
 
 •' rivulet on one hand, gently ftealing through the glade, a6 
 
 *' other with a catara£t tumbling from above, raging with 
 
 " foam, and rebounding with a thoufand echoes from below, 
 
 " or filently engulphed in a gloomy pool, or yawning 
 
 " chafm. 
 
 " The roads by which we approached thefe romantic fcenes 
 " are often hewn out of the living rock, and conduced round 
 " the hills in a kind of rugged ftair cafe, and yet no ac- 
 " cident occurred in our progrefs, not a falfe ftep difturbed 
 " the regularity of our cavalcade, though the horfes are fpirited 
 " and all of them unfliod. From the great irregularity of 
 *' the ground, and the various heights to which we afcended, 
 " we had opportunities of catching many magnificent points of 
 *« view by detached glances, but after wandering for feveral 
 " hours (and yet never wearied with wandering) we at laft 
 " reached a covered pavilion open on all fides, and fituated on 
 " a fummit fo elevated as perfeaiy to command the whole 
 " furrounding country to a vaft extent. The radius of the ho- 
 
 '* rizon,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 135 
 
 " rizon I fhould fuppofe to be at leaft twenty miles from the 
 
 " central fpot where we ftood ; and certainly fo rich, fo 
 
 " various, fo beautiful, fo fublime a profpe£l my eyes had 
 
 " never beheld. I faw every thing before me as on an illumin- 
 
 " ated map, palaces, pagodas, towns, villages, farm-houfes, 
 
 *' plains, and vallies, watered by innumerable ftreams, hills 
 
 " waving with woods, and meadows covered with cattle of the 
 
 " moft beautiful marks and colours. All feemed to be nearly at 
 
 " my feet, and that a ftep would convey me within reach of them. 
 
 " 1 obferved here a vaft number of what we call in England 
 *' Jheet cows, alfo flieet horfes, many pyeballs, dappled, mottled, 
 " and fpotted, the latter chiefly ftrawberry. 
 
 " From hence was pointed out to us by the minifter a vaft 
 " enclofure below, which, he faid, was not more acceflible to 
 " him than to us, being never entered but by the Emperor, his 
 " women, or his Eunuchs. It includes within its bounds, 
 *' though on a fmaller fcale, mofl of the beauties which dif- 
 *' tinguifh the eaftern and the weftern gardens which we have 
 " already feen ; but from every thing I can learn it falls very 
 " fhort of the fanciful defcriptions which father Attiret and 
 " Sir William Chambers have intruded upon us as realities. 
 " That within thefe private retreats, various entertainment* 
 " of the moft novel and expenfive nature are prepared 
 " and exhibited by the Eunuchs, who are very numerous 
 " (perhaps fome thoufands) to amufe the Emperor and his- 
 " ladies, I have no doubt ; but that they are carried to all 
 " the lengths of extravagance and improbability thofe gentle- 
 
 *' mea
 
 ,34 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 *' men have mentioned, I very much queftion, as from every 
 " enquiry I have made (and I have not been fparing to make 
 " them) I have by no means fufEcient reafon to warrant me in 
 " acceding to, or confirming, the accounts which they have 
 " given U8. 
 
 *' If any place in England can be faid in any refpe£l to have 
 *' fimilar features to the weftern park, which I havev feen this 
 *' day, it is Lowther Hall in Weftmoreland, which (when I 
 " knew it many years ago) from the extent of profpe£t, the 
 " grand furrounding objedls, the noble fituation, the diverfity 
 " of furface, the extenfive woods, and command of water, I 
 " thought might be rendered by a man of fenfe, fpirit, and 
 " tafte, the fined fcene in the Britifh dominions." 
 
 After this defcriptlve and interefting detail of the beauties of the 
 two fides of the imperial park or gardens at Gehol, his Lordfhip 
 makes a few general obfervations on Chinefe gardening, and 
 the ornamental edifices that are ufually employed to aid the 
 efleft, as well as contribute to ufe and convenience. He 
 obferves, 
 
 It 
 a 
 n 
 (( 
 
 " Whether our ftyle of gardening was really copied from the 
 Chinefe, or originated with ourfelves, I leave for vanity to 
 affert, and idlenefs to difcufs, A difcovery which is the re- 
 fult of good fenfe and reflexion may equally occur to the 
 moft diftant nations, without either borrowing from the other. 
 There is certainly a great analogy between our gardening 
 
 " and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 '35 
 
 and the Chlnefe, but our excellence fecms to be rather in im- 
 proving nature, theirs to conquer her, and yet produce the 
 fame effect. It is indifferent to a Chinefe where he makes 
 his garden, whether on a fpot favoured, or abandoned, by 
 the rural deities. If the latter, he invites them, or compels 
 them to return. His point is to change every thing from 
 what he found it, to explode the old fafliion of the creation, 
 and introduce novelty in every corner. If there be a wafte, 
 he adorns it with trees ; if a dry defert, he waters it with a 
 river, or floats it with a lake. If there be a fmooth flat, he varies 
 it with all pofTible converfions. He undulates the furface, 
 he raifes it in hills, fcoops it into vallies, and roughens it • 
 with rocks. He foftens afperities, brings amenity into the 
 wildernefs, or animates the tamenefs of an expanfe, by ac- 
 companying it with the majefty of a forefl:. Deceptions and 
 eye-traps the Chinefe are not unacquainted with, but they 
 ufe them very fparingly. I obferved no artificial ruins, 
 caves, or hermitages. Though the fublime predominates in 
 its proper ftation, you are infenfibly led to contemplate it, 
 not ftartled by its fudden intrufion, for in the plan cheer- 
 fulnefs is the principal feature, and lights up the face of the 
 fcene. To enliven it ftill more, the aid of architecture is 
 invited ; all the buildings are perfedl of their kind, either 
 elegantly fimple, or highly decorated, according to the 
 effedl that is intended to arife, ereded at fuitable diftances, 
 and judicioufly contrafted, never crowded together in confu- 
 fion, nor afFe£ledly confronted, and flaring at each other 
 without meaning. Proper edifices in proper places. The 
 
 " fummer-
 
 i;6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " fummer-houfe, the pavilion, the pagodas, have all their re- 
 " fpedive fituations, which ihcy diftinguifh and improve, but 
 " which any other ftrudures would injure or deform. The 
 " only things difagreeable to my eye are the large porcelain 
 " figures of lions, tygers, &c. and the rough hewn fteps, and 
 " huge mafles of rock work, which they feem fludious of in- 
 " troducing near many of their houfes and palaces. Confider- 
 " ing their general good tafte in the other points, I was much 
 " furprifed at this, and could only account for it, by the ex- 
 " pence and the difficulty of bringing together fuch incongrui- 
 " ties, for it is a common effedt of enormous riches to pufh 
 " every thing they can procure to bombaft and extravagance, 
 *' which are the death of tafte. In other countries, however, 
 " as well as in China, I have feen fome of the moft boafted feats, 
 " either outgrowing their beauty from a plethora of their 
 " owner's wealth, or becoming capricious and hypocondriacal 
 " by a quackifli application of it. A few fine places, even in 
 " England, might be pointed out that are labouring under thefe 
 " diforders ; not to mention fome celebrated houfes where 
 " twifted ftair-cafes, window-glafs cupolas, and embroidered 
 " chimney-pieces, convey nothing to us but the whims and 
 " dreams of fickly fancy, without an atom of grandeur, tafle, 
 " or propriety. 
 
 *' The architedure of the Chinefe is of a peculiar ftyle, to- 
 " tally unlike any other, irreducible to our rules, but perfedly 
 " confiftent with its own. It has certain principles, from 
 " which it never deviates, and although, when examined ac- 
 
 *' cording
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 M7 
 
 cording to curs, it fins againft the ideas we have Imbibed 
 of diftribution, compofition, and proportion; yet, upon 
 the whole, it often produces a mofl pleafing efTeft, as 
 we fometimes fee a perfon without a fingle good feature 
 in his face have, neverthelefs, a very agreeable coun- 
 tenance." \
 
 ,38 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Sketch of the State of Society hi China. — Manners, Cuftoms, 
 Sentiments, and Moral Charader of the People. 
 
 Condition of JVoinen, a Criterion of the State of Society— Degraded St.te of in 
 China. — Domefic Manners unfavourable to Filial AffeElion Parental Au- 
 thority.— HI Effects of feparating the Sexes. — Social Intercourfe unknown, ex- 
 cept for gaming.— Their IForfiip foiitary.—Feafs of New Tear.—Propenfity 
 
 to gaming. Influence of the Laws feems to have deflroyed the natural Cha. 
 
 roller of the People.— Made them indifferent, or cruel. — Various Inflances of 
 this Remark in public and in private Life. — Remarks on hfanticide. — Perhaps 
 lefs general than ufually thought.— CharaBer of Chinefe in Foreign Countries.— 
 Temper and Difpofition of the Chinefe.— Merchants.— Cuckoo-Clocks. — Coitdua of 
 a Prince of the Blood.— Of the Prime Minifler .—Comparifon of the Phyfical and 
 Moral CharaBers of the Chinefe and Man-tchoo Tartars.— General CharaEler of 
 the Nation illuflrated. 
 
 It may, perhaps, be laid down as an invariable maxim, that 
 the condhion of the female part of fociety in any nation will 
 furnifh a tolerable juft criterion of the degree of civilization to 
 which that nation has arrived. The manners, habits, and pre- 
 vailing fentiments of women, have great influence on thofe of 
 the fociety to which they belong, and generally give a turn to 
 its character. Thus we fhall find that thofe nations, where the 
 moral and intelle£tual powers of the mind in the female fex are 
 held in mofl eftimation, will be governed by fuch laws as are 
 
 I beft
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 139 
 
 beft calculated to promote the general happlnefs of the people ; 
 and, on the contrary, where the perfonal qualifications of the 
 fex are the only objects of confideration, as is the cafe in all the 
 defpotic governments of Afiatic nations, tyranny, oppreffion, 
 and flavery are fure to prevail ; and thefe perfonal accomplifh- 
 ments, fo far from being of ufe to the ow^ner, ferve only to 
 deprive her of liberty, and the fociety of her friends ; to render 
 her a degraded vidim, fubfervient to the fenfuol gratification, the 
 caprice, and thejealoufy of tyrant man. Among favage tribes 
 the labour and drudgery invariably fall heaviefl: on the weaker 
 fex. 
 
 The talents of women, in our own happy ifland, began only 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth to be held in a proper degree 
 of confideration. As women, they were admired and courted, 
 but they fcarcely could be faid to participate in the fociety of 
 men. In fadt, the manners of our forefathers, before that reign, 
 were too rough for them. In Wales, wives were fold to their 
 hufbands. In Scotland, women could not appear as evidences in 
 a court of juflice. In the time of Henry the Eighth, an a£l 
 was paffed prohibiting women and apprentices from reading the 
 New Teftament in the Englilli language. Among the poliflied 
 Greeks, they were held in little eftimation. Homer degrades 
 all his females? he makes the Grecian princefles weave the 
 web, fpin, and do all the drudgery of a modern waflierwo- 
 man ; and rarely allows them any (hare of focial intercourfe 
 with the other fex. Yet the very foundations on which he has 
 conftruded his two matchlefs poems are women. It appears 
 alfo from all the dramatic writers of ancient Greece, whofe aim 
 
 T 2 was
 
 ,40 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 was '* to hold as 'twere the mirror up to nature, to fhew the 
 " very age and body of the time its form and preflure," that 
 notwithftanding their extreme delicacy of tafte, and rapid pro- 
 grefs in the fine arts, their manners were low and coarfe, and 
 that they were entire ftrangers to any other gratification arifing 
 from the fociety of women, than the indulgence of the fenfuat 
 appetite. Even the grave Herodotus mentions, in the higheft 
 terms of approbation, the cuftom of Babylon of felling by auc- 
 tion, on a certain fixed day, all the young women who had 
 any pretenfions to beauty, in order to raife a fum of money for 
 portioning off the reft of the females, to whom nature had been 
 lefs liberal in beftowing her gifts, and who were knocked down 
 to thofe who were fatisfied to take them with the leaft money. 
 This degradation of women would feem to be as impolitic as 
 it is extraordinary fince, under their guidance, the earlieft, 
 and fometimes the moft indelible (I believe I may fafely add, 
 the beft and moft amiable) impreffions are ftamped on the youth- 
 ful mind. In infancy their protection is indifpenfably neceffary, 
 and in ficknefs, or in old age, they unqueftionably afford the beft 
 and kindeft relief: or, as a French author has neatly obferved, 
 " Saus les fannies yles deuxcxtreinites de la vie Jeraient Jans fccoursy 
 " et le milieu fa?is plaifirsT " Without woman the two extre- 
 " mities of life would be helplefs, and the middle of it joylefs." 
 
 The Chinefe, if poffible, have impofed on their women a 
 greater degree of humility and reftraint than the Greeks of old, 
 or the Europeans in the dark ages. Not fatisfied with the phyfi- 
 cal deprivation of the ufe of their limbs, they have contrived, 
 in order to keep them the more confined, to make it a moral 
 
 crime
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 14T 
 
 crime for a woman to be feen abroad. If they fhould have oc- 
 cafion to vifit a friend or relation, they muft be carried in a 
 clofe fedan chair : to walk would be the height of vulgarity. 
 Even the country ladies, who may not poffefs the luxury of a 
 chair, rather than walk, fuffer themfelves to be fometimes rolled 
 about in a fort of covered wheelbarrow. The wives and daughters,, 
 however, of the lower clafs are neither confined to the houfe,, 
 nor exempt from hard and flavifh labour, many being obliged 
 to work with an infant upon the back, while the hufband, in- 
 all probability, is gaming, or otherwife idling away his time. 
 I have frequently feen women afhfting to drag a fort of light 
 plough, and the harrow. Nieuwhoff, in one of his prints, 
 taken from drawings fuppofed to be made in China, yokes, if 
 I miftake not, a woman to the fame plough with an afs. Should 
 this be the fail:, the Chinefe are not fingiilar, if we may credit 
 the Natural Hiftorian of Antiquity *, who obferves that, to open 
 the fertile fields of Byzacium in Africa, it was neceffary to wait 
 until the rains had foaked into the ground ; " after which a 
 " little weakly afs, and an old woman, attached to the fame 
 " yoke, were fufficient to drag the plough through the foil," 
 poj} imbres vili afello, et a parte altera ji/gi ami vomerem trahente 
 vidimus fcindL 
 
 In the province of Kiaag-fce nothing is more common than 
 to fee a woman drawing a kind of light plough, with a fingle 
 handle, through ground that has previoufly been prepared. 
 The eafier talk of directing the machine is left to the hufband, 
 
 * Plin. lib. xvi. cap. 21. 
 
 who.
 
 ,.^, TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 who, holding the plough with one hand, at the fame time whit 
 the other cafts the feed into the drills. 
 
 The advantages which thofe women poflefs in a higher fpherc 
 of life, if any, are not much to be envied. Even at home, in 
 her own family, a woman muft neither eat at the fame table, 
 nor fit in the fame room with her hufband. And the male 
 children, at the age of nine or ten, are entirely feparated from 
 their lifters. Thus the feelings of affection, not the inftindive 
 produds of nature, but the offspring of frequent intercourfe 
 and of a mutual communication of their little wants and plea- 
 fures, are nipped in the very bud of dawning fentiment. A 
 cold and ceremonious condudt muft be obferved on all occafions 
 between the members of the fame family. There is no com- 
 mon focus to attract and concentrate the love and refped of 
 children for their parents. Each lives retired and apart from 
 the other. The little incidents and adventures of the day, 
 which furnifh the converfation among children of many a long 
 winter's evening, by a comfortable fire-fide, in our own coun- 
 try, are in China buried in filence. Boys, it is true, fome- 
 times mix together in fchools, but the ftiff and ceremonious be- 
 haviour, which conftitutesno inconfiderable part of their educa- 
 tion, throws a reftraint on all the little playful actions incident 
 to their time of life and completely fubdues all fpirit of ac- 
 tivity and enterprize. A Chinefe youth of the higher clafs is 
 inanimate, formal, and inadive, conftantly endeavouring to 
 affume the gravity of years. 
 
 To
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 '4^ 
 
 To beguile the many tedious and heavy hours, that mufl: un- 
 avoidably occur to the fecluded females totally unqualified for 
 mental purfuits, the tobacco-pipe is the ufual expedient. Every 
 female from the age of eight or nine years wears, as an ap- 
 pendage to her drefs, a fmall filken purfe or pocket to hold to- 
 bacco and a pipe, with the ufe of which many of them are not 
 unacquainted at this tender age. Some indeed are conftantly 
 employed in working embroidery on filks, or in painting birds, 
 Infedls, and flowers on thin gauze. In the ladies' apartments of 
 the great houfe in which we lived at Pekin, we obferved fome 
 very beautiful fpecimens of both kinds in the pannels of the 
 partitions, and I brought home a few articles which I under- 
 ftand have been much admired ; but the women who employ 
 their time in this manner are generally the wives and daugh- 
 ters of tradefmen and artificers, who are ufually the weavers 
 both of cottons and filks. I remember afking one of the great 
 officers of the court, who wore a filken veft beautifully em- 
 broidered, if it was the work of his lady, but the fuppofition 
 that his wife fhould condefcend to ufe her needle feemed to 
 give him offence. 
 
 Their manners in domeflic life are little calculated to pro- 
 duce that extraordinary degree of filial piety, or afFedtion and 
 reverence towards parents, for which they have been eminently 
 celebrated, and to the falutary effeds of which the Jefuits have 
 attributed the ftability of the government. Filial duty is, in 
 fad, in China, lefs a moral fentiment, than a precept which 
 by length of time has acquired the efficacy of a pofitive law; 
 and it may truly be faid to exift more in the maxims of the go- 
 vernment.
 
 j^4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 vernment, than in the minds of the people. Had they, indeed, 
 confidered filial piety to be fufficiently flrong when left to its 
 own natural influence, a precept or law to enforce it would 
 have been fuperfluous. The firft maxim inculcated in early life 
 is the entire fubmiffion of children to the will of their parents. 
 The tenour of this precept is not only " to honour thy father 
 " and thy mother, that thy days may be long in the land ;'' 
 but to labour for thy father and thy mother as long as they 
 both fliall live, to fell thyfelf into perpetual fervitude for their 
 fupport, if necefTary, and to confider thy life at their difpofal. 
 So much has this fentiment of parental authority gained ground 
 by precept and habit, that to all intents and purpofes it is as bind- 
 ing as the ftrcngefl law. It gives to the parent the exercife of 
 the fame unlimited and arbitrary power over his children, that 
 the Emperor, the common father, pofleffes by law over his 
 people. Hence, as among the Romans, the father has the 
 power to fell his fon for a flave ; and this power, either from 
 caprice, or from poverty, or other caufes, is not unfrequently 
 put in force. 
 
 A law that is founded in reafon or equity feldom requires 
 to be explained or juflified. The government of China, in fanc- 
 tionlng an a£t of parental authority that militates fo ftrongly 
 againft every principle of" nature, or moral right and wrong, 
 feeras to have felt the force of this remark. Their learned men 
 have been employed in writing volumes on the fubjeft, the 
 principal aim of which appears to be that of imprefling on the 
 minds of the people the comparative authority of the Emperor 
 over his fubjeds and of a parent over his children. The rea- 
 
 fonablenefs
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 J45 
 
 fonablenefs and juftlce of the latter being once eftabllflied, that 
 of the former, in a patriarchal government, followed of courfe; 
 and the extent of the power delegated to the one could not in 
 juftice be withheld from the other. And for the better allaying 
 of any fcruples that might be fuppofed to arlfe in men's con-% 
 fciences, it was eafy to invent any piece of fophiftry to ferve 
 by way of jullification for thofe unnatural parents who might 
 feel themfelves difpofed, or who from want might be induced, 
 to part with their children into perpetual flavery. A fon, fays 
 one of their mod celebrated lawgivers, after the death of his 
 father, has the power of felling his fervices for a day, or a year, 
 or for life ; but a father, while living, has unlimited authority 
 over his fon ; a father has, therefore, the fame right of felling 
 the fervices of his fon to another for any length of time, or evea 
 for life. 
 
 Daughters may be faid to be invariably fold. The bride- 
 groom muft always make his bargain with the parents of his in- 
 tended bride. The latter has no choice. She is a lot in the 
 market to be difpofed of to the higheft bidder. The man, in- 
 deed, in this refpe£t, has no great advantage on his fide, as he 
 is not allowed to fee his intended wife until fhe arrives in formal 
 procefTion at his gate. If, however, on opening the door of 
 the chair, in which the lady is fhut up, and of which the key 
 has been fent before, he fhould diflike his bargain, he can re- 
 turn her to her parents ; in which cafe the articles are forfeited 
 that conftituted her price ; and a fum of money, in addition to 
 them, may be demanded, not exceeding, however, the value of 
 
 u thefe
 
 ,46 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 thefe articles. Thefe matrimonial proceflions, attended with 
 pomp and mufic, are not unlike thofe ufed by the Greeks 
 when the bride was conducted to her hufband's houfe in a fplen- 
 did car ; only, in the former inftance, the lady is completely 
 invifible to every one. 
 
 To what a degraded condition is a female reduced by this ab- 
 furd cuftom ! How little inducement, it would be fuppofed, 
 fhe could have to appear amiable or elegant, or to ftudy her 
 drefs, or cramp her feet, or paint her face, knowing fhe will 
 be configned into the hands of the firfl: man who will give the 
 price that her parents have fixed upon her charms. No pre- 
 vious converfation is allowed to take place, no exchange of opi- 
 nions or comparifon of fentiments with regard to inclinations or 
 diflikes ; all the little filent ads of attention and kindnefs, which 
 fo eloquently fpeak to the heart, and demonftrate the fincerity 
 of the attachment, are utterly unfelt. In a word, that ftate of 
 the human heart, occafioned by the mutual affedion between 
 the fexes, and from whence proceed the happieft, the moft in- 
 terefting, and fometimes alfo, the moft diftreffing moments of 
 life, has no exiftence in China. The man takes a wife becaufe 
 the laws of the country dired him to do fo, and cuftom has 
 made it indifpenfable ; and the woman, after marriage, con- 
 tinues to be the fame piece of inanimate furniture fhe always was 
 in her father's houfe. She fuffers no indignity, nor does fhe 
 feel any jealoufy or difturbance (at leaft it is prudent not to 
 Ihew it) when her hufband brings into the fame houfe a fecond, 
 or a third woman. The firft is contented with the honour of 
 
 I prefiding
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 147 
 
 prefiding over, and dlreding the concerns of, the family with- 
 in doors, and in hearing the children of the others calling her 
 mother. 
 
 It might be urged, perhaps, on the part of the hufband, that 
 it would be highly unreafonable for the woman to complain. 
 The man who purchafed her ought to have an equal right in 
 the fame manner to purchafe others. The cafe is materially 
 different where parties are united by fentiments of love and 
 efteem, or bound by promifes or engagements ; under fuch cir- 
 cumftances the introdudion of a fecond wife, under the fame 
 roof, could not fail to difturb the harmony of the family, and 
 occafion the moft poignant feelings of diftrefs to the firft. But 
 a Chinefe wife has no fuch feelings, nor does the hufband make 
 any fuch engagements. 
 
 Although polygamy be allowed by the government, as In- 
 deed it could not well happen otherwife where women are arti- 
 cles of purchafe, yet it is an evil that, in a great degree, cor- 
 reds itfelf. Nine-tenths of the community find it difficult to 
 rear the offspring of one woman by the labour of their hands ; 
 fuch, therefore, are neither in circumflances, nor probably feel 
 much inclination, to purchafe a fecond. The general pra(3;ice 
 would, befides, be morally impofhble. In a country where fo 
 many female infants are expofed, and where the laws or cuf- 
 tom oblige every man to marry, any perfon taking to himfelf 
 two wives mull leave fome other without one, unlefs indeed it 
 be fuppofcd with the author of VE/prit des Loix^ what there 
 feems to be no grounds for fuppofmg, that a much greater 
 
 u 2 number
 
 ,48 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 number of females are born than of males. But all the obfer- 
 vations of this lively and ingenious author with regard to China, 
 and particularly the inferences he draws with refpedl to climate, 
 fall to the ground. It is not the vigour of natural propenfities, 
 as he has fuppofed, that deftroys the moral ones ; it is not the 
 effed of climate that makes it to be confidered among [thefe 
 people " as a prodigy of virtue for a man to meet a fine wo- 
 man in a retired chamber without offering violence to her," — 
 it is the effed of ftudioufly pampering the appetite, nurturing 
 vicious notions, confiderlng women as entirely fubfervlent to 
 the pleafures of man ; and, in Ihort, by fancying thofe plea- 
 fures in the head, rather than feeling them in the heart, that 
 have led them to adopt a fentiment which does the nation fo 
 little credit. The climate being every where temperate, and the 
 diet of the majority of the people moderate, I might fay 
 fcanty, thefe have little influence in promoting a vehement 
 defire for fexual intercourfe. It is indeed among the upper 
 ranks only and a few wealthy merchants (whom the fumptu- 
 ary laws, prohibiting fine houfes, gardens, carriages, and every 
 kind of external fhew and grandeur, have encouraged fecretly 
 to indulge and pamper their appetite in every fpecies of luxury 
 and voluptuoufnefs) where a plurality of wives are to be found. 
 Every great officer of flate has his haram confifling of fix, eight, 
 or ten women, according to his circumitances and his inclina- 
 tion for the fex. Every merchant alfo of Canton has his fera- 
 glio ; but a poor man finds one wife quite fufficient for all his 
 wants, and the children of one woman as many, and fometimes 
 more, than he is able to fupport. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 149 
 
 The unfociable diftance which the law (or cuftom, flronger 
 than law) prcfcribes to be obferved between the fexes, and 
 the cool ar,d indifferent manner of bargaining for a wife, 
 are not calculated to produce numerous inftances of cri- 
 minal intercourfe. Thefe, however, fometimes happen, and 
 the weight of punifhraent always fall heavieft on the woman. 
 The hufband finds no difficulty in obtaining a fentence of di- 
 vorce, after which he may fell her for a flave and thus redeem 
 a part at leaft of his purchafe-money. The fame thing hap- 
 pens in cafe a wife fhould elope, inftances of which I fancy 
 are ftill more rare ; as if fhe be of any fafhion, her feet are ill 
 calculated to carry her off with, fpeed ; and if a young girl 
 fhould chance to lofe what is ufually held to be the moft valuable 
 part of female reputation, {he is fent to market by her parents 
 and publicly fold for a flave. In cafes of mutual difllke, or in- 
 compatibility of temper, the woman is generally fent back to 
 her parents. A woman can inherit no property, but it may be 
 left to her by will. If a widow has no children, or females 
 only, the property defcends to the neareft male relation on the 
 deceafed hufband's fide, but he moft maintain the daughters until 
 he can provide them with hufbands. 
 
 The prohibition againft the frequent intercourfe with modeft 
 females, for there are public women in every great city, is not 
 attended here with the effedl of rendering the purfuit more 
 eager ; nor does it increafe the ardour, as among the ancient 
 Spartans who were obliged to fteal, as it were, the embraces 
 of their lawful wives. In China it feemfi to have the contrary 
 effect of promoting that fort of connexion which, being one of 
 
 the
 
 ,50 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the greatefl: violations of the laws of nature, ought to be copfi- 
 dered among the firft of moral crimes — a connexion that finks 
 the man many degrees below the brute. The commiffion of 
 this deteftable and unnatural a€t is attended with fo little 
 fenfe of fliame, or feelings of delicacy, that many of the firft 
 officers of flate feemed to make no hefitation in publicly avowi- 
 ing It. Each of thefe officers is conftantly attended by his 
 pipe-bearer, who is generally a handfome boy from fourteen to 
 eighteen years of age, and is always well drefTed. In pointing 
 out to our notice the boys of each other, they made ufe of figns 
 and motions, the meaning of which was too obvious to be mlf- 
 interpreted. The two Mahomedans, I obferve, who were in 
 China in the ninth century, have alfo taken notice of this clr- 
 cumftance : and I find in the journal of Mr. Hittner, a gentle- 
 man who was in that part of the fuite who accompanied the Bri- 
 tlfti Embaffiidor into Tartary, in fpeaklngof the palaces of Gehol, 
 the following remark : " Dans I'un de ces palais, parmi d'autres 
 " chefs- d'ccuvres de I'art, on voyait deux ftatues de gar^ons, en 
 " marbre, d'un excellent travail ; ils avaient les pleds et les 
 " mains lie's, et leur pofitlon ne laiflait point de doute que le 
 " vice des Grecs n'eut perdu fon horreur pour les Chinois. Un 
 *' vieil eunuque nous les fit remarquer avec un fourire impu- 
 « dent." 
 
 It has been remarked that this unnatural crime prevails moft 
 in thofe countries where polygamy is allowed, that is to fay, in 
 thofe countries where the affedlons of women are not con- 
 fulted, but their perfons purchafed for gold — a remark which 
 may lead to this conclufion, that it is rather a moral turpitude 
 • than
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 151 
 
 than a propenfity arifing from phyfical or local caufes. The 
 appetite for female intercourfe foon becomes glutted by the fa- 
 cility of enjoyment ; and where women, fo circumftanced, can 
 only receive the embraces of their proprietors from a fenfe of 
 duty, their coldnefs and indifference, the neceffary confequence 
 of fuch connexions, muft alfo increafe in the men the tendency 
 to produce fatiety. I think it has been obferved that, even in 
 Europe, where females in general have the fuperior advantage 
 of fixing their own value upon themfelves, it is the greateft 
 rakes and debauchees, who, 
 
 " — — bred at home in idlenefs and riot, 
 
 " Ranfack for miftrefles th' unwholefome flews, 
 
 '• And never know the worth of virtuous love." 
 
 fiy fometimes in fearch of frefh enjoyment in the deteftable way 
 here alluded to*. 
 
 I have already obferved that the ftate of domeftic fociety in 
 China was ill calculated to promote the affedion aid kindnefs 
 which children not only owe to, but really feel for, their parents 
 in many countries of Europe. A tyrant, in fafl:, to command, 
 and a flave to obey, are found in every family ; for, where 
 the father is a defpot, the fon will naturally be a flave ; and if 
 all the little ads of kindnefs and filent attentions, th^.t create 
 
 * I fhould not have taken notice of this odious vice, had not the truth of its exift- 
 ence in China been doubted by feme, and attributed by others to a wrong caufe. 
 Profefling to defcribe the people as I found them, I muft endeavour to draw a faith- 
 ful piflure, neither attempting to palliate their vices, nor to exaggerate theii* 
 virtues. 
 
 mutual
 
 ,^2 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 mutual endearments, be wanting among the members of tlic 
 fame family, living under the fame roof, it will be in vain to ex- 
 pe€t to find them in the enlarged fphere of public life. In fa£l, 
 they have no kind of friendly focieties nor meetings to talk 
 over the tranfadlons and the news of the day. Thefe can only 
 take place in a free government. A Chinefe having finifhed his 
 daily employment retires to his folitary apartment. There are, 
 it is true, a fort of public houfes where the lower orders of 
 people fometimes refort for their cup of tea or oi feau-tchoo (a 
 kind of ardent fpirit diftilled from a mixture of rice and other 
 grain) but fuch houfes are feldom, if at all, frequented for the 
 fake of company. They are no incitement, as thofe are of a 
 fimilar kind in Europe, to jovial pleafures or to vulgar ebriety. 
 From this odious vice the bulk of the people are entirely free. 
 Among the multitudes which we daily iaw, in pafling from one 
 extremity of the country to the other, I do not recolle<!i hav- 
 ing ever met with a fingle inftance of a man being difguifed in 
 liquor. In Canton, where the lower orders of people are em- 
 ployed by Europeans and necefl'arily mix with European fea- 
 men, intoxication is not unfr.equent among the natives, but this 
 vice forms no part of the general charader of the people. When- 
 ever a few Chinefe happen to meet togeiher, it is generally for 
 the purpofe of gaming,, or to eat a kettle of boiled rice, or drink a 
 pot of tea, or fmoke a pipe of tobacco. 
 
 The upper ranks indulge at home in the ufe of opium. Great 
 quantities of this intoxicating drug are fmuggled into the coun- 
 •try, notwithftanding all the precautions taken by the govern- 
 ment to prohibit the importation of it ; but it is too expenfive 
 
 to
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 153 
 
 to be ufed by the common people. The officers of the cuftoms 
 are not beyond a bribe. After receiving the fum agreed upon 
 between the importer and themfelves they frequently become 
 the purchafers of the prohibited article. Moft of the country 
 fhips from Bengal carry opium to China ; but that of Turkey 
 fent from London in the China fnips is preferred, and fells at 
 near double the price of the other. The governor of Canton, 
 after defcribing in one of his late proclamations on the fubje<St 
 the pernicious and. fatal efFeds arifing from the ufe of opium, 
 obferves, " Thus it is that foreigners by the means of a vile ex- 
 " crementitious fubftance derive from this empire the moft 
 " folid profits and advantages ; but that our countrymen fliould 
 " blindly purfue this deftru£live and enfnaring vice, even till 
 " death is the confequence, without being undeceived, is indeed 
 " a fad odious and deplorable in the higheft degree." Yet 
 the governor of Canton very compofedly takes his daily dofe of 
 opium. 
 
 The young people have no occafional aiTembTies for the- 
 purpofe of dancing and of exercifing themfelves in feats of ac- 
 tivity which, in Europe, are attended with the happy effeds of 
 fhaking off the gloom and melancholy that a life of conftant 
 labour or feclufion from fociety is ape to promote. They have 
 not even a fixed day of reft fet apart for religious worftiip. 
 Their ads of devotion partake of the fame folitary caft 
 that prevails in their domeftic life. In none of the different 
 feds of religion, which at various times have been imported 
 into, and adopted in China, has congregational worftiip been 
 
 X incul-
 
 ,54 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 inculcated, which, to that country in particular, may be confi- 
 dered as a great misfortune. For, independent of religious 
 confiderations, the fabbatical inflitution is attended with advan- 
 tages of a phyfical as well as of a moral nature ; and humanity- 
 is not lefs concerned than policy in confecrating one day out of 
 feven, or fome other given number, to the fervice of the great 
 Creator, and to reft from bodily labour. When the government 
 of France, in the height of her rage for innovation, fell into 
 the hands of athciftical demagogues, when her temples were 
 polluted and every thing facred was invaded and profaned, the 
 feventh day was confidered as a relic of ancient fuperftitlon and 
 the obfervance of it accordingly abolifhed ; and, about the 
 fame time, it became the fafliion among a certain defcription 
 of people to ufe fpecious arguments againft its continuance 
 in our own country ; as being, for example, a day for the 
 encouragement of idlenefs, drunkennefs, and diffipation. 
 Such a remark could only be applied to large cities and towns ; . 
 and in crowded manufadui'ing towns the mechanic, who can 
 fubfift by working three days in the week, would be at no lofs 
 in finding opportunities, were there no fabbath day, in the courfe 
 of the other four to commit irregularities. And who, even for 
 the fake of the mechanic and artificer, would wifh to fee the 
 labouring peafant deprived of one day's reft, out of feven, which 
 to him is more precious than the wages he has hardly earned 
 the other fix ? What man, poflefled of common feelings of 
 humanity, in beholding the decent and modeft hufbandman, 
 accompanied by his family in their beft attire attending the 
 parifli-church, does not participate in the fmile of con- 
 tent which on this day particularly beams on his countenance, 
 
 and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 155 
 
 and befpeaks the ferenlty of his mind ? Having on this day dlf- 
 charged his duty to God, refreflied his body with reft, enjoyed 
 the comfort of clean clothing, and exerclfed his mind in con- 
 verfing with his neighbours, he returns with double vigour to 
 his daily labour ;' having, as Mr. Addiibn cbferves in one of 
 his Spectators, rubbed ofFtbe ruft of the week. 
 
 The firft of the new year in China, and a few fucceeding 
 days, are the only holidays, properly fpeaking, that are obferved 
 by the working part of the community. On thefe days the 
 pooreft peafant makes a point of procuring new clothing for 
 himfelf and his family ; they pay their vlfits to friends and 
 relations, interchange civilities and compliments, make and re- 
 ceive prefents ; and the officers of government and the higher 
 ranks give feafts and entertainments. But even in thofe feafts there 
 is nothing that bears the refemblance of conviviality. The 
 guefts never partake together of the fame fervice of difties, but 
 each has frequently his feparate table ; fometimes two, but never 
 more than four, fit at the fame table ; and their eyes muft con- 
 ftantly be kept upon the mafter of the feaft, to watch all his 
 motions, and to obferve every morfel he puts into his mouth, 
 and every time he lifts the cup to his lips ; for a Chinefe of good- 
 breeding can neither eat nor drink without a particular cere- 
 mony, to which the guefts muft pay attention. If a perfon in- 
 vited {hould, from ficknefs or any accident, be prevented from 
 fulfilling his engagement, the portion of the dinner that was in- 
 tended to be placed on his table is fent in proceffion to his own 
 houfe ; a cuftom that ftrongly points out the very little notion 
 
 X 2 they
 
 ,56 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 they entertain of they&f/a/ pleafures of the table. It Is cuftom- 
 aiy to fend after each gueft the remains even of his dinner. 
 Whenever in the courfe of our journey we vifited a governor 
 or viceroy of a province, we generally found him at the head 
 of a range of tables, covered with a multitude of dilhes, which 
 invariably were marched after us to the yachts. Martial, if I 
 miftake not, has fome allufion to a fimilar cuftom among the 
 Romans. Each carried his own napkin to a feaft, which being 
 filled with the remains of the entertainment was fent home by 
 a flave ; but this appears to have been done more out of compli- 
 ment to the hoft, to fhew the great efteem in which they held 
 his cheer, than for the fake of the viands ; for the Romans 
 loved conviviality. 
 
 The Chlnefe alfo, like the ancient Egyptians as exemplified 
 in the enormous mefs which Jofeph gave to little Benjamin 
 above the reft of his brothers, teftify, on all occafions, that they 
 confider the meafure of a man's ftomach to depend more upon 
 the rank of its owner than either his bulk or appetite. The Em- 
 baflador's allowance was at leaft five times as great as that of any 
 perfon in his fuite. In this particular, however, thefe nations 
 are not fingular, neither in ancient nor in modern times. The 
 kings of Sparta, and indeed every Grecian hero, were always 
 fuppofed to eat twice the quantity of a common foldier ; and 
 the only difference with regard to our heroes of the prefent day 
 confifts in their being enabled to convert quantity into quality, 
 an advantage for which they are not a little indebted to the 
 invention of money, into which all other articles can be com- 
 muted. 
 
 What-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 157 
 
 Whatever may be the occafioii of bringing together a few 
 idlers, they feldom part without trying their luck at fome game 
 of chance for which a Chinefe is never unprepared. He rarely 
 goes abroad without a pack of cards in his pocket or a pair of 
 dice. B>>th of thefe, like almoft every thing elfe in the coun- 
 try, are different from fimilar articles elfewhere. Their cards 
 are much more numerous than ours, and their games much 
 more complicated. Nor are they at any lofs, even if none of 
 the party fhould happen to be furniQied with cards or dice ; on 
 fuch an emergency their fingers are employed to anfwer the 
 purpofe, which are all that is required to play the game of 7/01- 
 moi^ a game of which the lower clafs of people is particularly 
 fond. Two perfons, fitting diredly oppofite to each other, 
 raife their hands at the fame moment, when each calls out the 
 number he gueffes to be the fum of the fingers expanded by 
 himfelf and his adverfary. The clofed fift is none, the thumb 
 one, the thumb and forefinger two, &c. fo that the chances lie 
 between o and 5, as each mull know the number held out by 
 himfelf. The middling clafs of people likewife play at this 
 game when they give entertainments where wine is ferved, and 
 the lofer is always obliged to drink off a cup of wine. At this 
 childifh game two perfons will fometimes play to a very late 
 hour, till he who has had the worfl of the game has been 
 obliged to drink fo much wine that he can no longer fee cither to 
 count his own or his adverfary's fingers. I have thus particularly 
 noticed the Chinei'e Tfoi-moi, on account of the extraordinary 
 coincidence between it and a game in ufe among the Romans, 
 to which frequent allufion is made by Cicero. In a note by 
 Melanithon on Cicero's Offices it is thus dcfcribed. " Mlcare 
 
 3 " digitis^
 
 ,58 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " ii'i<Tit!s, ludl genus eft. Sic ludentcs, fimul digUos altcrlus 
 " manus quot volunt citifTime erigunt, et fimul ambo div'inant 
 " quot fimul ere£li fi"t ; quod qui definivit, lucratus eft ; unde 
 " acri vifii opus, et multa fide, ut cum aliquo in tenebris mices." 
 " Micare digitis, is a kind of game. Thofe who play at it 
 " ftretch out, with great quicknefs, as many fingers of one hand 
 " each, as they pleafe, and at the fame inftant both guefs how 
 " many are held up by the two together ; and he who guefles 
 " right wins the game : hence a fharp fight is necefiary, and 
 " alfo great confidence when it is played in the dark." 
 
 The Chinefe have certainly the ncer v'lfus^ but 1 doubt much 
 whether they have faith enough in each other's integrity to play 
 at the game of fingers in the dark, which, in the opinion of Ci- 
 cero, was a ftrong teft of a truly honeft man. The fame game 
 is faid to be ftill played in Italy under the name of Morra *. 
 
 The officers about Yuen-min-yuen ufed to play a kind of chefs, 
 which appeared to me to be eflentially different from that game 
 as played by the Perfians, the Indians, and other oriental nations, 
 both with regard to the lines drawn on the board, the form of 
 the chefs-men, and the moves, from which I Ihould rather con- 
 clude it to be a game of their own invention, than an introduc- 
 ti6n either from India or by the army of Gengis-khan^ as fome 
 authors have conjectured. 
 
 * Adam's Roman Antiquities. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 159 
 
 The fpirit of gaming is Co unlverfal in moft of the towns 
 and chies, that in alraoft every bye-corner, groupes are to be 
 found playing at cards or throwing dice. They are accufed 
 even of frequently flaking their wives and children on the ha- 
 zard of a die. It may eafily be conceived that where a man 
 can fell his children into flavery, there can be little remorfe, 
 in the breafl: of a gamefter reduced to his laft (lake, to rifk 
 the lofs of what the law has fancTtioned him to difpofe of. 
 Yet we are very gravely aflured by fome of the reverend mlffion- 
 aries, that " the Chinefe are entirely ign04*ant of all games of 
 " chance j" that " they can enjoy no amufements but fuch as are 
 " authorized by the laws." Thefe gentlemen furely could not 
 be ignorant that one of their moft favourite fports is cock-fight- 
 ing, and that this cruel and unmanly amiifement^ as they are 
 pleafed to confider it, is full as eagerly purfued by the upper 
 clafles in China as, to their fhamc and difgrace be it fpoken, it 
 continues to be by thofe in a fimilar fituation in fome parts of 
 Europe. The training of quails for the fame cruel purpofe of 
 butchering each other furnifhes abundance of employment for 
 the idle and diflipated. They have even extended their enqui- 
 ries after fighting animals into the infeft tribe, in which they 
 have difcovered a fpecies ol gryllus, or locuft, that will attack each 
 other with fuch ferocity as feldom to quit their hold without 
 bringing away at the fame time a limb of their antagonift. 
 Thefe little creatures are fed and kept apart in bamboo cao-es ; 
 and the cuftom of making them devour each other is fo com- 
 mon that, during the fummer months, fcarcely a boy is ittn. 
 without his cage and his grafshoppers. 
 
 I have
 
 i6o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 I have already had occafion to obferve that the natural difpofi- 
 tlon of the Chinefe fliould feem to have fuffered almoft a total 
 change by the influence of the laws and maxims of government, 
 an influence which, in this country more than elfewhere, has 
 given a bias to the manners, fentiments, and moral charader of 
 the people ; for here every ancient proverb carries with it the 
 force of a law. While ihey are by nature quiet, pafllve, and 
 timid, the ftate of fociety and the abufe of the laws by which 
 they are governed, have rendered them indifferent, unfeeling, 
 and even cruel, as a few examples, which among many others 
 occurred, will but too clearly bear evidence ; and as the parti- 
 cular inftances, from which I have fometimes drawn an inference, 
 accorded with the common adlions and occurrences of life, I have 
 not hefitated to confider them as fo many general features in their 
 moral chara£ler ; at the fame time I am aware that allowances 
 ought to be made for particular ways of thinking, and for cuf- 
 toms entirely diflimilar from our own, which are, therefore, 
 not exadlly to be appreciated by the fame rule as if they had 
 occurred in our own country. The public fealls of Sparta, in 
 which the girls danced naked in prefence of young men, had 
 not the fame effe£t on the Lacedemonian youth, as they might 
 be fuppofed to produce in Europe ; nor is the delicacy of the 
 Hindoo women offended by looking on the Lingam. Thus 
 the Chinefe are entitled to our indulgence by the peculiar cir- 
 cumflances under which they are placed, but I leave it in the 
 breaft of the reader to make what allowance he may think they 
 ideferve. 
 
 The 
 
 i
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, i5i 
 
 The common pradice of flogging with the bamboo has gene- 
 rally been confidered by the miffionaries in the light of a gen- 
 tle corredion, exerciled by men in power over their inferiors, 
 juft as a father would chaftife his fon, but not as a punifhment 
 to which difgrace is attached. However lightly thefe gentle- 
 men may chufe to treat ';as humiliating chaftifement, to which 
 all are liable from the prime minifter to the peafant, it is but 
 too often inflided in the anger and by the caprice of a man in 
 office, and frequently with circumftances of unv/arrantable 
 cruelty and injuftlce. Of the truth of this remark we had feve- 
 ral inftances. In our return down the Pei-ho^ the water being 
 confiderably fhallower than when we firft failed up this river, 
 one of our accommodation barges got aground in the middle of 
 the night. The air was piercing cold, and the poor creatures 
 belonging to the veflel were bufy until funrife in the midfl: of 
 the river, ufing their endeavours to get her off. The reft 
 of the fleet had proceeded, and the patience of the fu- 
 perintending oiEcer at length being exhaufted, he ordered 
 his foldiers to flog the captain and the whole crew ; which was 
 accordingly done in a mofl unmerciful manner : and this was 
 their only reward for the ufe of the yacht, their time and 
 labour for two days. The inftance of degrading an officer and 
 flogging all his people, becaufe the meat brought .for our ufe 
 was a little tainted when the temperature was at 88° in the 
 {hade, I have already had occafion to notice. 
 
 Whenever the, wind was contrary, or it was found necefTary 
 to track the veflels againfl: the ftream, a number of Vit'Ci wer?' 
 employed for this purpofe. The poor creatures wefe always 
 
 Y prefl'ed
 
 ,62 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 preffed Into this dilagreeable and laboiioQs fervlce, for which 
 they were to receive about fixpence a day fo long as they 
 tracked, without any allowance being made to them for return- 
 ing to the place from whence they were forced. Thefe people 
 knowing the difficulty there was of getting others to fupply their 
 places, and that their fervices would be required until fuch fhould' 
 be procured, generally deferted by night, difregarding thei-r pay. 
 In order to procure others, the officers difpatched their foldiers 
 to the ncareft village, taking the inhabitants by furprize and 
 forcing them out of their beds to join the yachts. Scarcely 
 a night occurred in which fome poor wretches did not fuffer 
 the lafhes of the foldiers for attempting to efcape, or for pleading^ 
 the excufe of old age, or infirmity. It was painful to behold 
 the deplorable condition of fome of thefe creatures. Several 
 were half naked and appeared to be wafting and languifhing 
 for want of food. Yet the tafk of dragging along the veffels 
 was far from being light. Sometimes they were under the ne- 
 ceffity of wading to the middle in mud; fometimes to fwim 
 acrofs creeks, and immediately afterwards to expofe their naked 
 bodies to a fcorching fun ; and they were always driven by a 
 foldier or the lidtor of fome petty police officer carrying in his 
 hand an enormous whip, with which he lafhed them with as- 
 little reluctance as if they had been a team of horfes. 
 
 The Dutch Embaffy proceeded by land to the capital, in the 
 middle of winter, when the rivers and canals were frozen. The 
 thermometer was frequently from 8 to i6 degrees below the 
 freezing point, and the face of the country was moftly covered 
 with ice and fnow ; yet they were often under the necef- 
 
 3 fity
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 163 
 
 Hty of travelling all night ; and the peafantry, who were preffed 
 to carry the prefents and their baggage, notwithftanding their 
 heavy loads, were obliged to keep up with them as long as they 
 could. In the courfe of two nights, Mr. Van Braam obferves, 
 not lefs than eight of thefe poor wretches adlually expired 
 under their burdens, through cold, hunger, fatigue, and the 
 cruel treatment of their drivers. 
 
 It had been the practice of fome of the gentlemen ot the 
 Britiih embaffy, in their return through the country, to vva4k 
 dunng a part of the day, and to join the barges towards the 
 hour of dinner. One day an ofEcer of high rank took it into 
 his head to interrupt them in their ufual walk, and for this 
 purpofe difpatched after them nine or ten of his foldiers, who 
 forced them in a rude manner to return to the veflels. Our 
 two condud;ors Fan and C/jou, coming up at the time, and be- 
 ing made acquainted with the circumftance, gave to each of the 
 foldiers a moll fevere flogging. One of thefe, who had been 
 particularly infolent, had his ears bored through with iron wire, 
 and his hands bound to them for feveral days. The viceroy 
 of Canton was at this time with the embaffy, and being in rank 
 fuperior to the offending ofhcer, he ordered the latter to appear 
 before him, gave him a fevere reprimand, and fentenced him to 
 receive forty flrokes of the bamboo as a gentle corrcElmt. Our 
 two Chinefe friends were particularly prefFmg that the gentlemen 
 infulted fhould be prefent at the punifhment of the ofBcer, and 
 it was not without difficulty they could be perfuaded that fuch a 
 fcene would not afford them any gratification. It happened alfo, 
 in the Dutch embaffy, that an inferior officer was flogged and 
 
 y 2 dit-
 
 ,64 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 difgraced by their condudlors for not having in readinefs a fuf- 
 ficient number of coolies or porters to proceed with the baggage,, 
 and to carry the fedan chairs in which they travelled. 
 
 The tyranny that men in office exercife over the multitude,. 
 and each other, is perfedly agreeable to the fyftematic fub- 
 ordination which the law has fandioned. But as authority is a. 
 dangerous depofit in the hands of the wifeft, and leads fome- 
 times the moft wary to 
 
 '^ Play futh fantaftic tricks before high heaven- 
 " As make the angels weep," 
 
 what muft the effeds of it be when vefted in an illiterate Chi'*- 
 nefe or rude Tartar who has no other talent or recommenda- 
 tion for his authority than the power alone which his office- 
 allows hira to exercife I 
 
 Several inftances however occurred in the courfe of our jour- 
 ney through the country, which feemed to- mark the fame unfeel- 
 ing and hard-hearted difpofition to exift between perfons of equaB 
 condition in life, as in men in office over their inferiors. One 
 of thefe afforded an extraordinary trait of inhumanity. A poor 
 fellow at Macao, in the employ of the Britilli factory there, 
 fell by accident from a wall and pitched upon his fkull. His 
 companions took him up with very little appearance of life 
 and, in this ftate, were carrying him away tov^^ards the fkirts 
 of the town, where they vv-ere met by one of the medical gen- 
 tlemen belonging to the embaffy. He interrogated them what 
 they meant to do with the unfortunate man, and was very 
 
 coolly
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. t6^ 
 
 coolly anfwered, they were going to bury him. Having ex- 
 prefled his aftonifliment that they fliould think of putting a 
 man into the grave before the breath was out of his body, they 
 replied that they were of opinion he never could recover, and 
 that if they carried him home he would only be a trouble and 
 expence to his friends fo long as he remained in a fituatlon which 
 rendered him unable to affift hinifelf. The man, however, by 
 the humanity and attention of Dudor Scott, was reftored again 
 to his family and to thofe friends who knew fo well to appre- 
 ciate the value of his life. 
 
 The dodor however was not aware of the riik he ran in thus 
 exercifing his humanity, as by a law of the country, which ap- 
 pears to us extraordinary, if a wounded man be taken into the 
 protedion and charge of any perfon with a view to effed his 
 recovery, and he fhould happen to die under his hands, the per- 
 fon into whofe care he was laft taken is liable to be puniflied 
 with death, unlefs he can produce undeniable evidence to prove 
 how the wound was made, or that he furvived it forty days. 
 The confequence of fuch a law is, that if a perfon fhould happen 
 to be mortally wounded in an affray, he is fuffered to die in the- 
 ftrects, from the fear (fhould any one take charge of him) of 
 being made refponfible for his life. 
 
 A flriking inftance of the fatal effeds of fuch a law happened 
 at Canton lately. A fire broke out in the fuburbs and three- 
 Chinefe, in alTifting to extingulih it, had their limbs fradurcd 
 and were otherwife dreadfully wounded by the falling of a wall. 
 The furgeon of the Englifli fadory, with all the alacrity to ad- 
 mi nifler
 
 i66 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 jninlfter relief to fufFering humanity, which charaderlzes the pro- 
 feflion In Britain, direded them to be carried to the fadory, and 
 was preparing to perform amputation, as the only poflible means 
 of laving their lives, when one of the Hong merchants having 
 heard what was going on ran with great hafte to the place, 
 and entreated the furgeon hy no means to think of performing 
 any operation upon them, but rather to fuffer them to be taken 
 away from the fadory as fpeedily as pofTible ; adding that, how- 
 ever good his intentions might be, if any one of the patients 
 lliould die under his hands, he would inevitably be tried for mur- 
 der, and the mofl mitigated punifhment would be that of banifli- 
 ment for life into the w-iids of Tartary. The wounded Chincfe 
 were accordingly removed privately, and, no doubt, abandoned 
 to their fate. 
 
 The operation of fuch a barbarous law (for fo It appears 
 to us) will ferve to explain the condud of the Chinefe in the 
 following inftance. In the courfe of our journey down the 
 grand canal we had occafion to witnefs a fcene, which was 
 confidered as a remarkable example of a want of fellow-feeling. 
 Of the number of perfons who had crowded down to the banks of 
 the canal feveral had ported themfelves upon the high projed- 
 ing ft:ern of an old vefTel which, unfortunately, breaking down 
 with the weight, the whole groupe tumbled with the wreck into 
 the canal, jufl: at the moment when the yachts of the embaffy were 
 pafTing. Although numbers of boats were failing about the place, 
 none were perceived to go to the affiftance of thofe that were ftrug- 
 gling In the water. They even feemed not to know that fuch an 
 accident had happened, nor could the Ihrieks of the boys, 
 
 float-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. i6y^ 
 
 floating on pieces of the wreck, attrad; their attention. One 
 fellow was obferved very bufily en^ployed in picking up, with 
 his boat-hook, the hat of a drowning man. It was in vain we 
 endeavoured to prevail on the people of our veffel to heave to 
 and fend the boat to their affiftance. It is true, we were then 
 going at the rate of feven miles an hour, which was the plea 
 they made for not flopping. I have no doubt that feveral of 
 thefe unfortunate people muft inevitably have periflied. 
 
 Being thus infenfible to the fufferings of their companlona 
 and countrymen, little compaflion is to be expeded from them 
 towards ftrangers. From a manufcript journal, kept by a gen- 
 tleman in the fuite of the Dutch Embaflador, it appears that 
 on their route to the capital, the writer felt an inclination to try 
 his fkaits on a fheet of ice that they pafled by the road-fide ; he 
 was alfo urged to it by the conducing officers. Having pro- 
 ceeded to fome diftance from the fliore, the ice gave way and 
 he fell in up to the neck. The Chinefe, inftead of rendering 
 him any affiftance, in the abfence of his own countrymen who 
 had gone forwards, ran away laughing at this accident and 
 left him to fcramble out as well as he could, which was not 
 efFedled without very great difficulty. 
 
 But, if further proofs were wanting to eftablifh the infenfible 
 and incompaffionate charader of the Chinefe, the horrid prac- 
 tice of infanticide, tolerated by cuflom and encouraged by the 
 government, can leave no doubt on this fubjed. — I venture to 
 fay encouraged, becaufe where the legiflature does not inter- 
 fere to prevent crimes, it certainly may be faid to lend them its 
 
 countenance.
 
 j68 travels in china. 
 
 countenance. No law, however, allows, as I obferve It noticed 
 in a motlern author of reputation, a father to expofe all the 
 i]au"^hters and ihe third fon. I believe the laws of China do 
 not fuppol'e fuch an unnatural crime to exift, and have there- 
 fore provided no punifhment for it. It is true, they have left a 
 child to the entire difpofal of the father, concluding, perhaps, 
 that if his feelings will not prevent him from doing it an injury, 
 no other confideration will. Thus, though the commiffion of 
 infiinticide be frequent in China, it is confidered as more pru- 
 dent to wink at it as an inevitable evil which natural afFedioii 
 will better correal tlian penal ftatutes ; an evil that, on the other 
 hand, if publicly tolerated, would direftly contradidl the grand 
 principle of filial piety, upon which their fyftem of obedience 
 reds, and their patriarchal form of government is founded. 
 
 It is, however, tacitly confidered as a part of the duty of the 
 police of Pekin to employ certain perfons to go their rounds, 
 at an early hour in the morning, with carts, in order to pick up 
 fuch bodies of infants as may have been thrown out into the 
 ftreets in the courfe of the night. No inquiries are made, but the 
 bodies are carried to a common pit without the city walls, into 
 which all thofe that may be living, as well as thofe that are dead, 
 are faid to be thrown promifcuoufly. At this horrible pit of de- 
 ftrudion the Roman Catholic miffionaries, eftablifhed in Pekin, 
 attend by turns as a part of the duties of their office, in order, 
 as one of them expreffed himfelf to me on this fubjedt, to chufe 
 among them thofe that are the moft lively^ to make future 
 profelytes, and by the adminiftration of baptifm to fuch of the 
 
 reft
 
 ■ TRAVELS IN CHINA. i6g 
 
 feft as might be ftill alive, pour leurfauver Vame. The Mahome- 
 dans who, at the time that their fervices were ufeful in aflifting to 
 prepare the national calendar, had a powerful influence at 
 Court, did much better : thefe zealous bigots to a religion, 
 whofe leaft diftinguifhing feature is that of humanity, were, 
 however, on thefe occafions, the means of faving the lives of all 
 the little innocents they poflibly could fave from this maw of 
 death, which was an humane ad, although it might be for the 
 purpofe of bringing them up in the principles of their own faith. 
 I was aflured by one of the Chriftian miffionaries, with whom I 
 had daily converfation during a refidence of five weeks within 
 the walls of the Emperor's palace at Ynen-min-yiien^ and who 
 took his turn in attending, pour kur faiiver Vame^ that fuch 
 fcenes were fometimes exhibited on thefe occafions as to make 
 the feeling mind fhudder with horror. When I mention that 
 dogs and fwine are let loofe in all the narrow ftreets of the ca- 
 pital, the readeK may conceive what will fometimes necelTarily 
 happen to the expofed infants, before the police-carts can pick 
 them up. 
 
 The number' of children thus unnaturally and inhumanly 
 
 flaughtered, or interred alive, in the courfe of a year, is diffe- 
 rently ftated by different authors, fome making it about ten 
 and others thirty thoufand in the whole empire. The truth, as 
 generally happens, may probably lie about the middle. The 
 miffionaries, who alone poffcfs the means of afcertaining nearly 
 the number that is thus facrificed in the capital, differ very ma- 
 teriaJly in their ftatements : taking the mean, as given by thofe 
 with whom we converfed on the fubjed:, I fhould conclude that 
 
 z about
 
 ,7o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 about twenty-four infants were, on an average, in Pekln, dailjr 
 carried to the pit of death where the little innocents that have 
 not yet breathed their laft are condemned without remorfe, 
 
 to be ftifled in the vault. 
 
 " To whofs foul mouth no healthfome air breathes in, 
 " And there die." 
 
 This calculation gives nine thoufand nearly for the capital- 
 alone, where it is fuppofed about an equal number are expofed 
 to that of all the other parts of the empire. Thofe, whofe 
 conftant refidence is upon the water, and whofe poverty, or fu- 
 perflition, or total infenfibility, or whatever the caufe may be 
 that leads them to the perpetration of an ad againft which na- 
 ture revolts, fometimes, it is faid, expofe their infants by 
 throwing them into the canal or river with a gourd tied round 
 their necks, to keep the head above w^ater, and preferve them 
 alive until fome humane perfon may be induced to pick them 
 up. This hazardous experiment, in a country where humanity 
 appears to be reduced to fo low an ebb, can only be confidered 
 as an aggravation of cruelty. I have feen the dead body of an 
 infant, but without any gourd, floating down the river of Can- 
 ton among the boats, and the people feemed to take no more 
 notice of it than if it had been the carcafe of a dog : this, indeed, 
 would in all probability have attracted their attention, dogs being 
 an article of food commonly ufed by them ; the miferable half- 
 famifhed Chinefe, living upon the water, are glad to get any 
 thing in the fhape of animal food, which they will even eat in a 
 ftate of putrefaftion. Yet, little fcrupulous as they are with 
 
 I regard
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 171 
 
 regard to diet, I am not credulous enough to believe the infor- 
 mation of a Swediih author* to be correal in his ftatementof a 
 cure for a certain difeafe, though " he has no reafon to doubt 
 of the fadt," per Tix.voipoi.yixv alternis diebus, alterms jejunio'^by 
 eating children every other day / 
 
 A pidlure fo horrid in its nature as the expofing of infants 
 prefents to the imagination is not to be furpaffed among the 
 moft favage nations. The celebrated legiflator of Athens made 
 no law to punifh parricide, becaufe he confidered it as a crime 
 againft nature, too heinous ever to be committed, and that the 
 bare fuppofition of fuch a crime would have difgraced the coun- 
 try. The Chlnefe, in like manner, have no pofitive law againft in- 
 fanticide. The laws of the rude and warlike Spartans allowed 
 infanticide, of which, however, the parents were not the per- 
 petrators, nor the abettors. Nor, among thefe people, were the 
 weak and fickly children, deemed by the magiftrates unlikely 
 ever to become of ufe to themfelves, or to the public, thrown 
 into the cc7roBriy.7j, or common repofitory of the dead bodies of 
 children, until life had been previoufly extlnguiflied, we will 
 charitably fuppofe, by gentle and the leaft painful means. 
 
 The expofmg of children, however, it muft be allowed, was 
 very common among the ancients. The ftern and rigid virtues 
 of the Romans allowed this among many other cuftoms, that 
 were more unnatural than amiable, and fuch as in civilized fo- 
 cieties of the prefent day would have been confidered among 
 the moft atrocious of moral crimes. A Roman father, if his in- 
 
 * Mr. Torreen, 
 
 7. 2 fant
 
 172 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fant was meant to be preferved, lifted it from the ground in his 
 arms; if he negledted that ceremony, the chikl, it would feem, 
 was confidered as doomed to expofure in the highway. Thus, 
 in the Andrlan of Terence, where, though the fcene is not laid 
 in Rome, Roman culloms are defcribed, " quidquid peperiflet, 
 " decrevcrunt tollere." " Let it be boy or girl they have re- 
 *' folved to lift it from the ground." Nor indeed is fecret in- 
 fanticide unknown in modern Europe, although it may be ow- 
 ing to a different principle. In fuch cafes, the fenfe of fhame and 
 the fear of encountering the fcorn and obloquy of the w^orld 
 have determined the condu£t of the unhappy mother, before 
 the feelings of nature could have time to operate. For I am 
 willing to hope that none who had ever experienced a mother's 
 feelings and a mother's joy would confent by any means, direct 
 or indiredV, or under any impreflion of fear of fliame, of fcorn, 
 or biting penury, to the deftrudlion of a new-born babe. And 
 I may venture to fay with confidence, that a Britifh cottager, 
 however indigent, would divide his fcanty pittance among a 
 dozen children rather than confent to let fome of them perifli, 
 that he and the reft might fare the better, were even our laws 
 as tacit on this fubjed as thofe of China, 
 
 Some of the Chriftian miffionaries, in their accounts of this 
 tountry, have attempted to palliate the unnatural a£t of expof- 
 ing infants, by attributing it to the midwife, who they pretend 
 to fay, from knowing the circumftances of the parents, ftrangle 
 the child without the knowledge of the mother, telling her that 
 the infant was ftill-born. Others have afcribed the pradice to a 
 beliet in the metempfycofis, or tranfmigration of fouls into 
 
 other
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 J73 
 
 other bodies ; that the parents, feehig their children mufl 
 be doomed to poverty, think it is better at once to let the 
 foul efcape in fearch of a more happy afylum, than to linger in 
 one condemned to want and wretchednefs. No degree of fu- 
 perftition, one would imagine, could prevail upon a parent to 
 reafon thus, in that mofl anxious and critical moment when 
 the combined efforts of hope and fear, of exquifite joy and 
 fevere pain, agitate by turns the mother's breaft. Befides, the 
 Chinefe trouble themfelves very little with fuperftitious notions, 
 unlefs where they apprehend fome perfonal danger. Nor is it 
 more probable that the midwife fhould take upon herfelf tlie 
 commiffion of a concealed and voluntary murder of an innocent 
 and helplefs infant, for the fake of fparing thofe feelings in an- 
 other, of which the fuppofition implies fhe coukl not polTibly 
 partake; and if fhe fhould be encouraged by the father, whofe 
 affe<Stions for an infant child may be more gradually unfolded 
 than the mother's, to perpetrate fo horrid an a€t, we mufi: allow 
 that to the exiftence of unnatural and murtherous parents mufl 
 be added that of hired ruffians ; fo that Chinefe virtue would 
 gain little by fuch a fuppofition. 
 
 It is much more probable that extreme poverty and hopelefs 
 indigence, the frequent experience of direful famines, and the 
 fcenes of mifery and calamity occafioned by them, adling oa 
 minds whofe affedlions are not very powerful, induce this unna- 
 tural crime which common cuftom has encouraged, and which is 
 not prohibited by pofitive law. That this is the cafe, and that fu- 
 ture advantages are not overlooked, will appear from the cir- 
 cumftance of almoft all the infants that are cxpofed being fe- 
 males,
 
 ,74 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 males, who are the leaft able to provide for themfelves, and the 
 leafl: profitable to their parents ; and the pradlice is mod fre- 
 quent in crowded cities, where not only poverty more com- 
 monly prevails, but (o many examples daily occur of inhuma- 
 nity, of fummary punifliments, adls of violence and cruelty, 
 that the mind becomes callous and habituated to fcenes that once 
 would have fl:iocked, and is at length fcarcely fufceptible of th« 
 enormity of crimes. 
 
 I am afraid, however, it is but too common a practice even in 
 the remoteft corners of the provinces. A refpeflable French mif- 
 fionary, now in London, who vv^as many years in Fo-kien, told 
 me that he once happened to call on one of his converts juft at 
 the moment his wife was brought to-bed. The devoted infant 
 ■was delivered to the father in order to be plunged into a jar of 
 water that "was prepared for the purpofe. The mifTionary ex- 
 poftulated with the man on the heinoufnefs of an a£l that was a 
 crime againfl God and nature. The man perfifted that, having 
 already more than he could fupport, it would be a greater crime 
 to preferve a life condemned to want and mifery, than to take it 
 away without pain. The miflionary, finding that no argument 
 of his was likely to divert him from his purpofe, obferved 
 " that, as a Chriflian, he could not refufe him the fatisfadtion of 
 " faving the infant's foul by baptifm." During the ceremony, as 
 the father held the infant in his arms he happened to fix his 
 eyes on its face, when the mifRonary thought he perceived the 
 feelings of nature begin to work ; and he protracted the cere- 
 mony to give time for the latent fpark of parental affedlion to 
 kindle into fiame. When the ceremony was ended ; *' Now," 
 
 fays
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 175 
 
 fays the mlflionary, " I have done my duty In faving a foul 
 *' from perilhing." " And I," rejoined the man, " will do 
 " mine, by faving its life," and hurried away with the infant to 
 depofit it in the bofom of its mother. 
 
 How very weak then, in reality, muft be the boafted filial 
 affection of the Chinefe for their parents, when they fcruple not 
 to become the murderers of their own children, towards whom, 
 according to the immutable laws of nature, the force of affedion 
 will ever be ftronger than for thofe whom the laws of China, in^ 
 preference, have commanded to be protedted and fupported 
 when rendered Incapable of affiftlng themfelves. The truth of 
 this obfervatlon, which I believe few will call in queftion, is a 
 ftrong proof that, as I have already remarked, filial piety 
 among the Chinefe may rather be confidered in the light of an 
 ancient precept, carrying with it the weight of a pofitive law,, 
 than the effedt of fentlment. 
 
 It is right to mention here (what however is no palliation of 
 the crime, though a diminution of the extent of it) a circum- 
 ftance which I do not recolledt to have feen noticed by any 
 author, and the truth of which I have too good authority 
 to call in queftion. As every corpfe great and fmall mufl: be 
 carried to a place of burial at a confiderable diftance without' 
 the city, and as cuftom requires that all funerals Ihould be con- 
 duced with very heavy expences, people in Pekin, even thofe 
 ill comfortable circumftances, make no hefitation in laying 
 in bafkets ftill-born children, or infants who may die the 
 fiift month, knowing that they will be taken up by the police. 
 
 This
 
 ,76 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 This being the cafe, we may eafily conceive tliat, In a city faid 
 to contain three millions of people, a great proportion of the 
 nine thoufand, which we have fuppofed to be annually expofed, 
 may be of the above defcription. According to the rules of po- 
 litical arithmetic, and fuppofing half of thofe who died to be ex- 
 pofed, the number would be diminifhed to about 4000. The ex- 
 pence attending a Chinefe funeral is more extravagant than an' 
 European can well conceive. A rich Hong merchant at Canton 
 is known to have kept his mother near twelve months above 
 ground, becaufe it was not convenient for him to bury her in a 
 manner fuitable to his fuppofed wealth and ftation. 
 
 I am informed alfo that foundling hofpitals do exift in China, 
 but that they are on a fmall fcale, being raifed and fupported by 
 donations of individuals, and their continuance is therefore 
 as precarious as the wealth of their charitable founders. 
 
 Thefe unfavourable features in the charader of a people, whofe 
 natural difpofition is neither ferocious nor morofe ; but, on the 
 contrary, mild, obliging, and cheerful, can be attributed only to 
 the habits in which they have been trained, and to the heavy 
 hand of power perpetually hanging over them. That this is 
 adually the cafe may be inferred from the general condud and 
 character of thofe vaft multitudes who, from time to time, have 
 emigrated to the Phillipine iflands, Batavia, Pulo Pinang and 
 other parts of our Eaft Indian fettlements. In thofe places they 
 are not lefs remarkable for their honefty, than for their peace- 
 able and induftrious habits. To the Dutch in Batavia they are 
 
 mafons,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. i-j-j 
 
 mafons, carpenters, tailors, flioemakers, iliopkeepers, bankers, 
 and, in fhort, every thing. Indolence and luxury are there 
 arrived to fuch a height that, without the affiftance of the 
 Chinefe, the Dutch would literally be in danger of ftarving. 
 Yet the infamous government of that place, in the year 1741, 
 eaufed to be maffacred, in cold blood, many thoufands of thefe 
 harmlefs people who offered no refiftance; neither women nor 
 children efcaped the fury of thefe blood-hounds. 
 
 In thefe places it appears alfo, that their quicknefs at inven- 
 tion is not furpafied by accuracy of imitation, for which they 
 have always been accounted remarkably expert in their own 
 country. Man is, by nature, a hoarding animal ; and his en- 
 deavours to accumulate property will be proportioned to the 
 fecurity and ftability which the laws afford for the poffeffion 
 and enjoyment of that property. In China, the laws regarding 
 property are infufficient to give itthat fecurity : hence the talent 
 of invention is there feldoni exercifed beyond fuggefting the 
 means of providing for the firft ncceffities and the moft preffing 
 wants. A man, indeed, is afraid here to be confidered as 
 wealthy, well knowing that fome of the rapacious officers of 
 the ftate would find legal reafons to extort his riches from him. 
 
 The exterior deportment of every clafs in China is uncommon- 
 ly decent, and all their manrters mild and engaging; but even thefe 
 among perfons of any rank are confidered as objeds worthy the 
 interference of the legiflature ; hence it follows that they are cere- 
 monious without fincerity, ftudious of the forms only of poHtenefs 
 
 A A without
 
 178 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 without either the eafe or elegance of good-breeding. An inferior 
 makes alham attempt to fall on his knees before his fuperior, and 
 the latter affeds a flight motion to raife him. A common falutation 
 has its mode prefcribed by the court of ceremonies ; and any 
 negledl or default in a plebean towards his fuperior is puniQiable 
 by corporal chaftifement, and in men in office by degradation or 
 fufpenfion. In making thus the exterior and public manners of 
 the people a concern of the legiflature, fociety in many refpefts 
 was confiderably benefited. Between equals, and among the 
 lower orders of people, abufive language is very unufual, and 
 they feldom proceed to blows. If a quarrel fhould be can-ied 
 to this extremity, the conteft is rarely attended with more feri- 
 ous confequences than the lofs of the long lock of hair growing 
 from the crown of the head, or the rent of their clothes. The 
 a£t of drawing a fword, or prefenting a piftol, is fufficient to 
 frighten a common Chinefe into convuUions ; and their war- 
 riors fhew but few fymptoms of bravery. The Chinefe may 
 certainly be confidered among the mod timid people on the 
 face of the earth ; they feem to poflefs neither perfonal courage, 
 nor the leaft prefence of mind in dangers or difficulties ; con- 
 fequences that are derived probably from the influence of the 
 moral over the phyfical charailer. Yet there is perhaps no 
 country where ads of fuicide occur more frequently than in 
 China, among the women as well as the men ; fuch adls being 
 maiked with no difgrace, are not held in any abhorrence. The 
 government, indeed, fhould feem to hold out encouragement to 
 fuicide, by a very common pradice of mitigating the fentence 
 of death, in allowing the crimiiial to be his own executioner. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 179 
 
 The late viceroy of Canton, about two years ago, put an end 
 to his life by fvvallowing his ftone fnufF-bottle, which ftuck in 
 the oefophagus J and he died in excruciating agonies. 
 
 In a government, where every man is liable to be made a flavc, 
 where every man is fubjedl to be flogged with the bamboo at 
 the nod of one of the loweft rank of thofe in office, and where 
 he is compelled to kifs the rod that beats him or, which amounts 
 to the fame thing, to thank the tyrant on his knees for the trou- 
 ble he has taken to correct his morals, high notions of honour 
 and dignified fentiments are not to be expedted. Where the 
 maxims of the government commanding, and the opinions of 
 the people agreeing, that corporal punifhment may be in- 
 flided, on the ground of a favour conferred upon the perfon 
 punifhed, a principle of humiliation is admitted that is well 
 calculated to exclude and obliterate every notion of the dignity 
 of hum.an nature. 
 
 A flave, in fa£t, cannot be dlfhonoured. The condition it- 
 felf of being dependent upon and fubjed to the caprice of 
 another, without the privilege of appeal, is fuch a degraded ftate 
 of the human fpecies, that thofe vv'ho are unfortunately re- 
 duced to it have no further ignominy or fenfe of ihame to un- 
 dergo. The vices of fuch a condition are innumerable, and they 
 appear on all occafions among this people celebrated (rather un- 
 defervedly I think) for their polifhed manners and civilized go- 
 vernment. A Chinefe merchant will cheat, whenever an op- 
 portunity offers him the means, becaufe he is confidered to be 
 
 A A 2 incapable
 
 i8o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 incapable of a3ing honeftly ; a Chinefe peafant will fleal when 
 ever he can do it without danger of being deteded, becaufethe 
 piinllhinent is only the bamboo, to which he is daily liable ; 
 and a Cliinefe prince, or a prime minifter, will extort the pro- 
 perty of the fubje£t, and apply it to his private ufe, whenever 
 he thinks he can do it with impunity. The only check upon 
 the rapacity of men in power is the influence of fear, arifing 
 from the pofRbility of detection : the love of honour, the dread 
 of Ihame, and a fenfe of juftice, feem to be equally unfelt by 
 the majority of men in office. 
 
 It would be needlefs to multiply inftances to thofe already on 
 record of the refined knavery difplayed by Chinefe merchants 
 in their dealings with Europeans, or the tricks that they play off 
 in their tranfadtions with one another. They are well known 
 to moft nations, and are proverbial in their own. A merchant 
 with them is confidered as the loweft charader in the country, 
 as a man that will cheat if he can, and whofe trade it is to 
 create and then fupply artificial wants. To this general cha- 
 rader, which public opinion has mofl: probably made to be 
 v/hat it is, an exception is due to thofe merchants who, ading 
 under the immediate fandion of the government, have always 
 been remarked for their liberality and accuracy in their dealings 
 with Europeans trading to Canton. Thefe men who are ftyled 
 the Hong merchants, in diftindion to a common merchant whom 
 X^Cif^ c&A mai-mal-ghi^ a biiy'mg and fcUifig man, might not un- 
 juftly be compared with the moft eminent of the mercantile 
 x;lafs in England. 
 
 But
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. x3i 
 
 But as traders in general are degraded in all the ftate maxims, 
 and confequently in public opinion, it is not furprifing they fliould 
 attach fo. little refpedl to the charader of foreign merchants trad- 
 ing to their ports, efpecially as feveral knavifh trick^have been 
 pradifed upon them, in fpite of all their acutenefs and precau- 
 tion. The gaudy watches of indifferent workmanfhip, fabri- 
 cated purpofely for the China market and once in univerfal de- 
 mand, are now fcarcely afked for. One gentleman in the Ho- 
 nourable Eaft India Company's employ took it into his head 
 that cuckoo clocks might prove a faleable article in China^ and 
 accordingly laid in a large affbrtment, which more than an- 
 fvvered his moft fanguine expetftations. But as thefe wooden 
 machines were conftruded for fale only, and not for ufe, the 
 cuckoo clocks became all mute long before the fecond arrival of 
 this gentleman with another cargo. His clocks were now not 
 only unfaleable, but the former purchafers threatened to return 
 theirs upon his hands, which would certainly have been done, 
 had not a thought entered his head, that not only pacified his 
 former cuflomers but procured him alfo other purchafers for 
 his fecond cargo : he convinced them by undeniable authorities, 
 that the cuckoo was a very odd kind of bird which fung only at 
 certain feafons of the year, and affured them that whenever the 
 proper time arrived, all the cuckoos they had purchafed would 
 once again " tune their melodious throats." After this it would 
 only be fair to allow the Chinefe fometimes to trick the Euro- 
 pean purchafer with a wooden ham inftead of a real one. 
 
 But as fomething more honourable might be expeded In a 
 prince of the blood, a grandfon of the Emperor, I fhall juft 
 
 mention
 
 ,82 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 mention one anecdote that happened during my abode in the 
 palace of Yiien-min-yuen. This gentleman, then about five- 
 and-twenty years of age, having no oflenfible employment, 
 came almoft daily to the hall of audience, where we were arrang- 
 ing the prefcnts for the Emperor. He had frequently defired 
 to look at a gold time-piece which I wore in my pocket : one 
 morning I received a meffage from him, by one of the miflion- 
 aries, to know if I would fell it and for what price. I ex- 
 plained to the mlffionary that, being a prefent from a friend 
 and a token of remembrance, I could not willingly part with it, 
 but that I would endeavour to procure him one equally good from 
 our artificers who I thought had fuch articles for fale. I loon 
 difcovered, however, that his Royal Highnefs had already been 
 with thefe people, but did not like their prices. The following 
 morning a fecond mlfTionary came to me, bringing a prefent 
 from the prince confifting of about half a pound of common 
 tea, a filk purfe, and a few trumpery trinkets, hinting at the 
 lame time, that he was expelled to carry back the watch in re- 
 turn as an equivalent. I requeffed the mifTionary immediately 
 to take back the princely prefent, which he did with confider- 
 able reludance, dreading his Highnefs's difpleafure. The poor 
 fellow happened to have a gold watch about him, which he 
 was dcfired to (hew ; and the fame day he had a vifit from 
 one of the prince's domeflics to fay, that his mafler would do 
 him the honour to accept his watch ; which he was not only 
 under the nccefTity of fending, but was obliged to thank him, 
 on his knees, for this extraordinary mark of difUndlion. He 
 told me, moreover, that this fame gentleman had at leafl a 
 dozen watches which had been procured in the fame honour- 
 able wav. 
 
 In
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 183 
 
 In the lift of prefents carried by the late Dutch Embaflador 
 were two grand pieces of machinery, that formerly were a part 
 of the curious mufeum of the ingenious Mr. Coxe. In the 
 courfe of the long journey from Canton to Pekin they had 
 fuftercd fome flight damage. On leaving the capital they dif- 
 covered, through one of the miflionarics, that while thefe 
 pieces were under repair, the prime minifter Ho-tchang-tong 
 had fubftituted two others of a very inferior and common fort 
 to complete the lift, referving the two grand pieces of clock- 
 work for himfelf, which, at fome future period, he would, 
 perhaps, take the merit of prefenting to the Emperor in his 
 own name. 
 
 Thefe examples but too clearly illuftrate the great defed in 
 the boafted moral charader of the Chinefe. But the fault, as 
 I before obferved, feems to be more in the fyftem of govern- 
 ment than in the nature and difpofition of the people. The 
 acceffion of a foreign power to the throne, by adopting the lan- 
 guage, the laws, and the cuftoms of the conquered, has preferved 
 with the forms all the abufes of the ancient government. The 
 charader of the governors may differ a little, but that of the go- 
 verned remains unchanged. The Tartars, by affuming the 
 drefs, the manners, and the habits of the Chinefe, by being 
 originally defcended from the fame ftock, and by a great re- 
 femLlance of features, are fcarcely diftinguilhable from them 
 in their external appearance. And if any phyfical difference 
 exift, it feems to be in ftature only, which may have arifen 
 from local caufes. The Chinefe are rather taller, and of a more 
 flcnder and delicate form than the Tartars, who are in general 
 
 I fliorr.
 
 ,84 TRAVELS INCIIINxV. 
 
 {hort, thick, niul robuft. The fmall eye, elliptical at the end 
 next to the nofe, is a predominating feature in the caft of both 
 the Tartar and the Chinefc countenance, and they have both 
 the fame high cheek bones and pointed chins, which, with 
 thecurtom of Ihaving off the hair, gives to the head the fliape 
 of an inverted cone, remarkable enough in fome fubjeits, but 
 neither fo general, nor fo fingular, as to warrant their being 
 confidered among the monjlers in nature, Homo monjirofus, ma^ 
 crocephalusy capite conico^ Chinenfis *. The head of our worthy 
 condu£tor Van-ta gin, who was a real Chinefe, had nothing in 
 its fhape different from that of an European, except the eye. 
 The portrait of this gentleman, drawn by Mr. Hickey, is fo 
 ftrong a likenefs, and he was defervedly fo great a favourite of 
 every Englifli man in the train of the Britifh Embaffador, that I 
 am happy in having an opportunity of placing it at the head of 
 this work. 
 
 The natural colour both of the Chinefe and'Tartars feems to 
 be that tint between a fair and dark complexion, which we dlf- 
 tlnguifhby the worddmnet or brunette ; and the fhades of this com- 
 plexion are deeper, or lighter, according as they have been 
 more or lefs expofed to the influence of the climate. The 
 women of the lower clafs, who labour in the fields or who 
 dwell in veffels, are almoft invariably coarfe, ill-featured, and 
 of a deep brown complexion, like that of the Hottentot. But 
 this we find to be the cafe among the poor of almoft every na- 
 tion, yard labour, fcanty fare, and early and frequent parturl- 
 
 * Linn. Syftema NaturK. 
 
 tion.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 185 
 
 tion, foon wither the delicate buds of beauty. The fprlghtli- 
 nefs and expreflion of the features, as well as the colour of the 
 Ikin, which diftinguifh the higher ranks from the vulgar, are 
 the effe£ls of eafe and education. We faw women in China, 
 though very few, that might pafs for beauties even in Europe. 
 The Malay features however prevail in moft ; a fmall black or 
 dark brown eye, a fliort rounded nofe, generally a little flat- 
 tened, lips confiderably thicker than in Europeans, and black 
 hair, are univerfal. 
 
 The Man-tchoo Tartars would appear to be compofed of a 
 mixed race : among thefe we obferved feveral, both men and 
 women, that were extremely fair and of florid complexions : 
 fome had light blue eyes, flireight or aquiline nofes, brown hair, 
 immenfe bufhy beards, and had much more the appearance of 
 Greeks than of Tartars. It is certainly not improbable that the 
 Greeks of Sogdiana, whofe defendants mufl: have blended with 
 the weftern Tartars and with whom the Man-tchoos were 
 conneded, may have communicated this caft of countenance. 
 Tchieti-Luiig, whofe nofe was fomewhat aquiline and com- 
 plexion florid, ufed to boafl: of his defcent from Geiigis-kban : 
 thefe, however, are exceptions to the general charader, which 
 is evidently the fame as that of the Chinefe. 
 
 But although their appearance and manners are externally 
 the fame, a clofer acquaintance foon difcovers that in difpofition 
 they are widely different. Thofe who are better pleafed with a 
 blunt fmcerity bordering on rudenefs than a fludied complai- 
 fance approaching to fervility ; who may think it better to be 
 
 B B robbed
 
 iS6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 robbed openly than cheated civilly, will be apt to give the pre- 
 ference to the Tartar charader. Yet thofe Tartars of diftinc- 
 tion, vfho fill fome of the higher fituations in the ftate, foon 
 loofe their native roughnefs and are fcarcely diftinguiftiable in 
 their manners and demeanour from the Chinefe. 
 
 The eafe, polltenefs, and dignified carriage of the old viceroy 
 of Pe-tcbe-ke, who was a Man-tchoo, could not be exceeded 
 by the moft pradifed courtier in modern Europe : the attention 
 he fliewed to every thing that concerned the embaffy, the un- 
 affeded manner in which he received and entertained us at 
 Tien-fing; the kindnefs and condefcenfion with which he gave 
 his orders to the inferior officers and to his domeftics, placed him 
 in a very amiable point of view. He was a very fine old man of 
 feventy-eight years of age, of low ftature, with fmall fparkling 
 eyes, a benign afped, a long filver beard, and the whole of 
 his appearance calm, venerable, and dignified. The manners 
 oi Siinta-gin, a relation of the Emperor and one of the fix mi- 
 nifters of ftate, were no lefs dignified, eafy, and engaging ; and 
 Chufig-ta-gin, the new viceroy of Canton, was a plain, unaffum- 
 ing, and good-natured man. The prime minlfter Ho-chang- 
 tof7g, the little Tartar legate, and the ex-viceroy of Canton, were 
 the only perfons of rank among the many we had occafion to 
 converfe with that difcovered the leaft ill-humour, diftant hau- 
 teur, and want of com.plaifance. All the reft with whom we had 
 any concern, whether Tartars or Chinefe, when in our private 
 fociety, were eafy, affable, and familiar, extremely good-hu- 
 moured, loquacious, communicative. It was in public only,- 
 and towards each other, that they aflumed their ceremonious 
 
 gravity,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 187 
 
 gravity, and pradllfed all the tricks of demeanour which cuftom 
 requires of them. 
 
 The general chara(fler, however, of the nation is a ftrange 
 compound of pride and meannefs, of affedted gravity and real 
 frivoloufnefs, of refined civility and grofs indelicacy. With an 
 appearance of great fiinplicity and opennefs in converfation, 
 they praftife a degree of art and cunning againft which an 
 European is but ill prepared. Their manner of introducing the 
 fubjeft of the court ceremonies in converfation with the Embaf- 
 fador is no bad fpecimen of their fly addrefs in managing mat- 
 ters of this fort. Some of them obferved, by mere accident as 
 it were, how curious it was to fee the different modes of drefs 
 that prevailed among different nations : this naturally brought 
 on a comparifon between theirs and ours, the latter of which 
 they pretended to examine with critical attention. After a good 
 deal of circumlocutory obfervations, they thought their own 
 entitled to the preference, being more convenient, on account 
 of its being made wide and loofe and free from tight ligatures; 
 whereas ours muft be exceedingly uneafy and troublefome in 
 any other pofture than that of ftanding upright ; and particular- 
 ly fo in making the genufledlions and proftrations which were 
 cuftoraary and indeed neceffary to be performed by all perfons 
 whenever the Emperor appeared in public. No notice being 
 taken of this broad hint, fo artfully introduced, they proceeded 
 to compare their wide petticoats with our breeches, and to con- 
 trail the play and freedom of their knee-joints with the obftruc- 
 tion that our knee-buckles and garters muft neceffarily occafion. 
 This brought them diredly to the point, and they finiflied by 
 
 B B a recom-
 
 i88 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 recommending, in the warmth of their friendfhip, that we 
 fliould difencumber curfelves of our breeches, as they would 
 certainly be inconvenient to appear in at court. 
 
 Of perfeverance in negociation, or more properly fpeaking, 
 in driving a bargain, the Tartar legate gave no bad fpecimen of 
 his talent. Having in vain piadifed every art to obtain from 
 the EmbalTador an unconditional compliance with the court 
 ceremony, he was fent at length by the Prime Minifter to 
 inform him, that the important point was finally decided 
 and that the Englifh mode was to be adopted ; but, he obferved, 
 that as it was not the cuftom of China to kifs the Emperor's 
 hand, he had fomething to propofe to which there could be no 
 objedlion, and which was that, in lieu of that part of the 
 Englifh ceremony, he fhould put the fecond knee upon the 
 ground and, inftead of bending one knee, to kneel on both. 
 In fadl, they negociate on the mofi: trifling point with as much 
 caution and precifenefs, as if they were forming a treaty of 
 peace, and with more addrefs than fomc treaties of peace have 
 been negociated. 
 
 As a dire£t refufal to any requeft would betray a want of 
 good breeding, every propofal finds their immediate acquief- 
 cence ; they promife without hefitation, but generally difap- 
 point by the invention of fome fly pretence or plaufible 
 objeQion. They have no proper fenfe of the obligations of 
 truth. So little fcrupulous indeed are they with regard to 
 veracity, that they will affert and contradiil without blulhing, 
 as it may beft fuit the purpofe of the moment. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 189 
 
 T'lf vanity of an ufiirped national ruperiority and a liigh 
 rotiun of felf importance never forfake them on any occafion. 
 Thofe advantages in otiiers which they cannot avoid feeling, 
 they will affeft not to fee. And although they are reduced to 
 the necfflity of em^ loying foreigners to regulate their calendar 
 and keep their clocks in order, although they are in the habit of 
 receiving yearly various fpecimens of art and ingenuity from 
 Europe, yet they pertiiiacioufly afFe£t to confider all the nations 
 of the earth as barbarians in comparifon of themfelves. A 
 Chinefe merchant of Canton, who, from the frequent opportu- 
 nities ot feeing Englilh fhips, was not infenfible of their advan- 
 tages over thofe of his own nation which traded to Batavia 
 and other diftant ports, refolved, and adually began, to con- 
 ftrud a veflel according to an Englifli model ; but the Hoopoo 
 or colletStor of the cuftoms being apjirized of it, not only 
 obliged him to relinquifh his proje<ft but fined him in a heavy- 
 penalty for prefuming to adopt the modes of a barbarous 
 nation. So great is their national conceit that not a fingle 
 article imported into the country, as I have elfewhere obferved 
 retains its name. Not a nation, nor perfon, nor objed, that 
 does not receive a Chinefe appellation : fo that their langua^-e, 
 though poor, is pure. 
 
 The expreflions made ufe of in falutation, by different na- 
 tions, may perhaps be confidered as deriving their origin from 
 features of national ohara£ter. Lau-ye^ Old fir ^ is a title of refpedl, 
 with which the firfh officers of ftate may be addreffed, becaufe 
 the maxims of government have inculcated the dodrine of 
 obedience, refped, and protection to old age. The common 
 falutation among the lower orders of people in fome of the 
 
 3 fouthern
 
 igo TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fouthern provinces is Ta fa/i. Have you eaten your rice f the 
 greatefl: happlnefs that the common clafs of people in China 
 can hope to enjoy confiding in their having a fufficiency of 
 rice. Thus alfo the Dutch, who are confidered as great 
 eaters, have a morning falutation which is common among all 
 ranks, Smaakelyk ceten ! May you eat a hearty dinner ! Another 
 univerfal falutation among this people is. Hoe vaart uzve? How do 
 you fain adopted no doubt in the early periods of the Republic, 
 when they were all navigators and fifliermen. The ufuai 
 falutation at Cairo is. How do you fweat ? a dry hot fkin being 
 a furc indication of a deftrudive ephemeral fever. I think fome 
 author has obferved, in contrafting the haughty Spaniard with 
 the frivolous Frenchman, that the proud fteady gait and inflex- 
 ible folemnlty of the former were exprefled in his mode of falu- 
 tation, Come ejla? How do you Jl and? whilfl: the Comment vous 
 portezvous? How do you carry yourfelf? was equally expreflive 
 of the gay motion and incefTant adlion of the latter. 
 
 The Chinefe are fo ceremonious among themfelves, and fo 
 pun£lilious with regard to etiquette, that the omiffion of the 
 moft minute point eftabliftied by the court of ceremonies is 
 confidered as a criminal offence. Vifiting by tickets, which with 
 us is a fafhion of modern refinement, has been a common pra£tice 
 in China fome thoufand years ; but the rank of a Chinefe vifitor 
 is immediately afccrtained by the fize, colour, and ornaments 
 ef his ticket, which alfo varies in all thefe points according to 
 the rank of the perfon vifited. The old Viceroy of Pe-tche-lees 
 ticket to the Embaflador contained as much crimfon-coloured 
 paper as would be fufficient to cover the walls of a moderate- 
 fized room.
 
 C H A p. V. 
 
 Manners and Amufements of the Court— Reception of Embaf- 
 
 fadors — Charader and private Life of the Emperor — His 
 
 Eunuchs and Women. 
 
 General CharaFler of the Court — Of the Buihibigs about the Palace — Lord Macart- 
 ncy'/ Account of his hitroduEiioii — Of the Celebration of the Emperor's Anniverfary 
 Fifival—^Of a Ptippet-Sheiv — Comedy and Pantomime — WreJlUno— Conjuring 
 and Fire-Works — Reception tind Entertainment of the Dutch Embaffadors from 
 a Manufcript Journal - Ohjervations on the State of the Chiuefe Stage Extraor- 
 dinary Scene in one of their Dramas ~- Grofs and indelicate Exhibitions Sketch of 
 
 Kien-I-ong'j Life and CharaSler' — Kills his Son by an unlucky Blonu conceives 
 
 himfelf immortal — Jnfluetue of the Eunuchs at the Tartar Conqueft their prefent 
 
 State and Offices — Emperor's Wife, ^teens, and Concubines — Hoiu difpofed of at 
 his Death. 
 
 jr\FTER the fketch I have exhibited of the ftate of fociety 
 among the different ranks in China, a tolerable notion may be 
 formed of the general charadler and complexion of the court. 
 It is, as Lord Macartney has juftly obferved, " a fmgular mixture 
 " of oftentatious holpitality and inbred fufpicion, ceremonious 
 " civility and real rudenefs, fhadowy complaifance and fuhdan- 
 " tial perverfenefs ; and this prevails through all the depart- 
 " ments conneded with the Court, although fomewhat modi- 
 " hed by the perfonal difpofition of thofe at their headj but as. 
 
 " to
 
 ,92 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " to tliat genuine politenefs, which diftinguiflies our manners, it 
 " cannot be expeded in Orientals, confidering among other 
 «' things the light in which they are accuflomed to regard the 
 " female part of fociety." Whether the great minifters of 
 ■ftate, who have daily intercourfe in the different tribunals, fome- 
 tlmes relax from the ftiff and formal deportment obferved to- 
 wards each other in public, I am not able to fay, but when at 
 Court they invariably obferve certain ftated forms and expref- 
 fions as ftudied and ceremonious as if they had never met be- 
 fore. It appeared to us highly ridiculous to fee our friends, the 
 two colleagues Vaii-ta-gin and Chou-ta-gin^ on meeting in the 
 precinfts of the palace, performing to each other all the genu- 
 flexions and motions of the body which the ceremonial 
 inftltutes of the empire require. 
 
 I rather fufped, however, that where any degree of confi- 
 dence prevails among thefe people they fometimes enjoy their 
 moments of conviviality. Our two worthy condudors met at 
 Canton an old acquaintance who was governor of a city in Fo- 
 kien. He gave them an evening entertainment on the river in a 
 fplendid yacht to which I was privately invited. On entering 
 the great cabin I found the three gentlemen with each a young 
 girl by his fide very richly drefled, the cheeks, lips, and chin 
 highly rouged, the reft of the face and neck whitened with a pre- 
 paration of cerate. I was welcomed by a cup of hot wine from 
 each of the ladies who firft fipped by way of pledging me. 
 During fupper, which for number and variety of difhes ex- 
 ceeded any thing I had hitherto met with in the country, the 
 girls played on the flute and fung feveral airs, but there was no- 
 thing
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 193 
 
 thing very captivating either in the vocal or inftrumental part of 
 the mufic. We pafled a mod convivial evening free from any 
 referve or refti-alnt, but on going away I was particularly defired 
 by Fan not to take any notice of what I had feen, apprehenfive, 
 I fuppofe, that their brother officers might condemn their want 
 of prudence in admitting a barbarian to witneis their relaxation 
 from good morals. The yacht and the ladies it feemed were 
 hi^red for the occafion. 
 
 The incalculable numbers of the great officers of ftate and 
 their attendants, all robed in the richeft filks, embroidered with 
 the moft brilliant colours, and tiflued with gold and filver, 
 the order, filence, and folemnity with which they arrange and 
 condud themfelves on public court-days are the moft command- 
 ijig features on fuch occafions. 
 
 This fober pomp of Afiatic grandeur is exhibited only at- 
 certain fixed feftivals ; of which the principal is the anniverfary 
 of the Emperor's birth-day, the commencement of a new year, 
 the ceremonial of holding the plough, and the reception of fo- 
 reign embafladors, moft of whom they contrive to be prefent 
 at one or other of thefe feftivals. The birth-day is confidered to 
 be the moft fplendid ; when all the Tartar princes and tribu- 
 tuaries, and all the principal officers of government both civil 
 and military, are expeded to be prefent. 
 
 For reafons of ftate, which will be noticed hereafter, the Em- 
 peror rarely ftiews himfelf in public among the Chinefe part 
 
 c c of
 
 ,5+ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of his fubjeds, except on fuch occafions ; and even then the 
 exhibition is confined within the precindls of the palace from 
 •which the populace are entirely excluded. Confiftcnt with 
 their fyftem of fumptuary laws there is little external appear- 
 ance of pomp or magnificence in the eftablifliment of the Em- 
 pei-or. The buildings that compofe the palace and the furni- 
 ture within them, if we except the paint, the gilding, and the 
 varnifli, that appear on the houfes even of plebeians, are equally 
 void of unncceflary and expenfive ornaments. Thofe who 
 fhould rely on the florid relations, in which the miffionaries and 
 fome travellers have indulged in their defcriptions of the palaces 
 of Pekin and thofe of Yuen-min-yue?z^ would experience on vifit- 
 ing them a woful difappointment. Thefe buildings, like the 
 common habitations of the country, are all modelled after the 
 form of a tent, and are magnificent only by a comparifon with 
 the others and by their number, which is fufficient, indeed, to 
 form a town of themfelves. Their walls are higher than 
 thofe of ordinary houfes, their wooden columns of greater 
 diameter, their roofs are immenfe, and a greater variety of 
 painting and gilding may be beftowed on the different parts ; 
 but none of them exceeds one ftory in height, and they are 
 jumbled and furrounded with mean and infignificant hovels. 
 Some writer has obferved that the King of England is worfe 
 lodged at Saint James's palace than any Sovereign in Europe. 
 Were I to compare fome of the imperial palaces in China to any 
 royal refidence in Europe it would certainly be to Saint James's ; 
 but the apartments, the furniture, and conveniences of the latter, 
 bad as they are, infinitely tranfcend any of thofe in China. 
 The ftone or clay floors arc indeed fometimes covered with a 
 
 carpet
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 195 
 
 carpet of Englifh broad-cloth, and the walls papered; but they 
 have no glafs in the windows, no ftoves, fire-places, or fire- 
 grates in the rooms ; no fofas, bureaux, chandeliers, nor look- 
 ing-glafles ; no book-cafes, prints, nor paintings. They have 
 neither curtains nor flieets to their beds ; a bench of wood, or 
 a platform of brick-work, is raifed in an alcove, on which are 
 mats or fluffed matreffes, hard pillows, or cufhions, according 
 to the feafon of the year; inftead of doors they have ufually 
 fkreens, made of the fibres of bamboo. In fhort, the wretched 
 lodgings of the ftate-officers at the court of Verfailles, in the 
 time of the French monarchy, were princely palaces in com- 
 parifon of thofe allotted to the firfl: minifters of the Emperor 
 of China, in the capital as well as at Yuen-mht-yu'eru 
 
 When attending the court, on public occafions, each courtier 
 takes his meal alone in his folitary cell on a fmall fquare table 
 crowded with bowls of rice and various ftews ; without table- 
 linen or napkins, without knife, fork, or fpoon ; a pair of fmall 
 fticks, or the quills of a porcupine, are the only fubftitutes for 
 thefe convenient articles : placing the bowl under his chin, 
 with thefe he throws the rice into his mouth and takes up the 
 pieces of meat in his foup or ftews. Having finillied his lonely 
 meal, he generally lies down to fleep. In a government fo 
 fufpicious as that of China, if parties were known to meet 
 together, the objedt of them might be fuppofed fomething 
 beyond that of conviviality, which however mutual jealoufy and 
 diftruft have prevented from growing into common ufe. 
 
 As the ready compliance of the late Dutch Embafladors with 
 all the degrading ceremonies required by the Chincfe, added to 
 
 c c 2 their
 
 ,96 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 their conftant refidcnce in the capital, gave them more oppor- 
 tunities of obferving the manners and the amufeinents of the 
 court than occurred to the Biitifli enibafly, I fhall here avail 
 myfolf of that part of a journal relating to this fubje^l, which 
 was kept by a young gentleman in the fulte of the former, 
 and whofe accuracy of obfervation may be depended on. The 
 account given by him of the New Year's feftival, added to 
 Lord Macartney's defcription of his introduction and the 
 birth-day folemnities, which his Lordfhip has obligingly per- 
 mitted me to extrasfl from his journal, together with my own 
 obfervations at the palace of Yucn-mhi-yuen ^ will ferve to con- 
 vey a tolerably exadl idea of the ftate, pleafures, and amufe- 
 ments of the great Monarch of China. 
 
 " On the 14th September," obferves his Lordfliip, " at four 
 " o'clock in the morning we fet out for the court, under the 
 " convoy of Van-ta-gin^ and Chou-ta-gtn, and reached it in little 
 " more than an hour, the diftance being about three miles 
 " from our hotel. We alighted at the park-gate, from whence 
 " we walked to the Imperial encampment, and were conduded 
 *' to a large handfome tent prepared for us, on one fide of the 
 *' Emperor's. After waiting there about an hour, his ap- 
 " proach was announced by drums and mufic, on which we 
 
 quitted our tent and came forward upon the green carpet. 
 
 He was feated in an open Palankeen, carried by fixteen 
 " bearers, attended by numbers of officers bearing flags, ftan- 
 " dards, and umbrellas; and as he pafTed., we paid him our 
 « compliments, by kneeling on one knee, whilft all the Chi- 
 " nefe made their ufual proftrations. As foon as he had 
 " afcended his throne I came to the entrance of his tent, and 
 
 " holding
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 197 
 
 " holding in both my hanJs a large gold box, enriched with 
 " diamonds, in which was 'encloled the King's letter, I walked 
 " deliberately up and, afcending the fteps of the throne, deli- 
 " vered it into the Emperor's own hands, who, having re- 
 " ceived it, paded it to the Minifter by whom it was placed 
 " on the cufh'on. He then gave me, as the firft prefent from 
 " him to his Majefty, the Eu-Jloee, or fymbol of peace and 
 " profperltv, and exprefled his hopes that my Sovereign and 
 " he (Iiould ahrays live in gnod correfpondence and amity. 
 " It is a whitifh agate-looking ftone, perhaps ferpentine, about 
 " a foot and a half long, curioiifly carved, and highly prized 
 " by the Chinpre; but to me It docs not appear in itfelf to be 
 " of any great value. 
 
 " The Emperor then prefented me with an Eu-Jhee of a 
 " greenifli-coloured ferpentine ftone, and of the fame emble- 
 " matic charafter ; at the fame time he very gracioufly 
 " received from me a pair of beautiful enamelled watches, fet 
 *' with diamonds which, having looked at, he pafled to the 
 " Minifter. 
 
 " Sir George Staunton (whom, as he had been appointed 
 " Minifter plenipotentiary, to a£t in cafe of my death or de- 
 *' parture, I introduced to him as fuchj now came forward, and 
 " after kneeling upon one knee, in the fame manner as I had 
 " done, prefented to him two elegant air-guns, and received froni 
 " him an Eu-Jhee of greenifh ftone nearly fimilar to mine. 
 " Other prefents were fent, at the fame time, to all the gentle- 
 '* men of my train. We then defcended from the fteps of the 
 
 3 " throne,
 
 ,98 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " throne, and fat down upon cufhions at one of the tables on 
 " the Emperor's left hand. And at other tables, according to 
 '' their different ranks, the chief Tartar princes and the Man- 
 " darins of the court at the fame time took their places ; all 
 " drefled in the proper robes of their refpecSive ranks. Thefe 
 " tables were then uncovered and exhibited a fumptuous 
 " banquet. The Emperor fent us feveral difhes from his own 
 " table, together with fome liquors, which the Chinefe call 
 *' wine ; not however exprefled from the grape, but dillilled 
 " or extraded from rice, herbs, and honey. 
 
 " In about half an hour he fent for Sir George Staunton and 
 " me to come to him and gave to each of us, with his own 
 *' hands, a cup of warm wine, which we immediately drank 
 *' in his prefence, and found it very pleafant and comfortable, 
 " the morning being cold and raw. Among other things he 
 *' afked me the age of my Sovereign and, being informed 
 *' of it, faid he hoped he might live as many years as himfelf 
 " which were then eighty-three. His manner was dignified, 
 " but affable and condefcending ; and his reception of us was 
 " very gracious and fatisfa(fl:ory. 
 
 •' The order and regularity in ferving and removing the 
 " dinner was wonderfully exa£t, and every function of the 
 " ceremony performed with fuch filence and folemnity as 
 " in fome meafure to refemble the celebration of a religious 
 " myftery. 
 
 " There were prefent on this occafion three EmbalTadors 
 " from l'a-t%e or Pegu, and fix Mahomedan Embaffadors 
 
 " from
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 199 
 
 " from the Kalmucs of the fouth-weft, but their appearance 
 
 " was not very fplendid. During the ceremony, which lafkd 
 
 •' five hours, various entertainments of wreRling, tumbling, 
 
 " wire-dancing, together with dramatic reprefentations, were 
 
 " exhibited oppofite the Emperor's tent, but at a confiderable 
 
 *' diftance from it. 
 
 " The 17th of September, being the Emperor's birth day, "^ ?^ 
 
 " we fet out for the court at three o'clock in the morning, 
 
 " conduced by Van-ta-gin, Chou-ta-gin, and our ufual at- 
 
 " tendants. We repofed ourfelves about two hours in a large 
 
 " faloon at the entrance of the palace enclofure, where fruit, 
 
 " tea, warm milk, and other refrefhments were brought to us. 
 
 " At laft notice was given that the feftival was going to begin, 
 
 *' and we immediately defcended into the garden, where we 
 
 " found all the great men and mandarins in their robes of 
 
 " ftate, drawn up before the Imperial pavilion. The Em- 
 
 " peror did not fhew himlelf, but remained concealed 
 
 " behind a fcreen, from whence I prefume he could fee and 
 
 enjoy the ceremonies without inconvenience or interruption. 
 
 " Ail eyes were turned towards the place where his Majefty 
 
 was imagined to be enthroned, and feemed to exprefs an 
 
 " impatience to begin the devotions of the day. Slow, folemn 
 
 " mufic, muffled drums, and deep-toned bells, were heard at 
 
 *' a diftance ; — on a fudden the founds ceafed, and all was 
 
 " ftill — again they were renewed, and then intermitted with 
 
 " fhort paules ; during which feveral perfons pafFed backwards 
 
 *' and forwards, in the profcenium or foreground of tlie tent, 
 
 " as if engaged in^preparing fome grand coup-dc-thealre. 
 
 " At 
 
 (( 
 
 <(
 
 200 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " At length the great band, both vocal and Inflrumental, 
 " ftruck up with all their powers of harmony, and inftantly 
 " the whole court fell flat upon their faces before this invifible 
 *' Nebuchadnezzar, whilft 
 
 " He in his cloudy tabernacle fliviiicd 
 " Sojourned the while." 
 
 " The mufic might be confidered as a fort of birth-day ode, or 
 " ftate anthem, the burthen of which was, ' Bow doivn your 
 *' heads all ye dwellers upon earth, bow down your heads before 
 " the great Kien-long, the great Kien-long^ And then all tlie 
 " dwellers upon China earth there prefent, except ourfelves, 
 •' bowed down their heads and proftrated themfelves up- 
 " on the ground at every renewal of the chorus. Indeed, 
 " in no religion either ancient or modern has the divinity ever 
 " been addrefled, I believe, with ftronger exterior marks of 
 " worfhip and adoration than were this morning paid to the 
 " phantom of his Chinefe majefty. Such is the mode of cele- 
 " brating the Emperor's anniverfary feftival, according to the 
 " court ritual. We faw nothing of him the whole day, 
 " nor did any of his minifters, I imagine, approach him, 
 " for they all feemed to retire at the fame moment that we 
 " did. 
 
 " In the courfe of a tour we made in the gardens with the 
 
 '" prime minifter and other great officers of ftate, whom the 
 
 " Emperor had directed to attend us, we were entertained at 
 
 *' one of the palaces wiih a collation of petitpatis, fait relilhes, 
 
 " and other favoury difhes, with fruits and fweetmeats, milk 
 
 " and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 20/ 
 
 " and ice-water ; and as foon as we rofe from table, a number 
 " of yellow boxes, or drawers, were carried in procefTion be- 
 " fore UP, containing feveral pieces of filk and porcelain, which 
 *' we were told were prefents to us from the Emperor, and we 
 ** confequently made our bows as they pafled. We were alfo V 
 " amufed with a Chinefe puppet-fhew which differs but little 
 -* from an Englifh one. There are a diftrefled princefs con- 
 " fined in a caftle, and a knight- errant, who, after fighting wild 
 " beafts and dragons, fets her at liberty and marries her; • 
 " wedding-feafts, jufts, and tournaments. Befides thefe, there 
 *' was alfo a comic drama, in which fome perfonages not un- 
 " like punch and his wife, Bandemeer and Scaramouch per- 
 " formed capital parts. This puppet-fhew, we were told, pro- 
 " pcrly belongs to the ladies' apartments, but was fent out aS 
 " a particular compliment to entertain us ; one of the perforra- 
 *' ances was exhibited with great applaufe from our condudors 
 " and I underftand it is a favourite piece at court. 
 
 *' On the morning of the i8th September we again went to 
 " court, in confequence of an invitation from the Emperor, to 
 *' fee the Chinefe comedy and other diverfions given on oc- 
 " cafion of his birth-day. The comedy began at eight o'clock 
 *' and lafted till noon. The Emperor was feated on a throne, 
 " oppofite the ftage, which projeded a good deal into the 
 " pit. The boxes were on each fide without feats or divi- 
 *' fions. The women were placed above, behind the lattices 
 " fo ti:at they might enjoy the amufements of the theatre with- 
 " out being obferved. 
 
 D D . " Soon
 
 202 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " Soon after we came in, the Emperor fent for Sir George 
 
 " Staunton and me to attend him, and told us, with great 
 
 " condelcenfion of manner, that we ought not to be furprized 
 
 " to fee a man of his age at the theatre, for that he feldom 
 
 " came there except upon a very particular occafion like the 
 
 " prefent, for that, confidering the extent of his dominions 
 
 " and the number of his fubjeds, he could fpare but little time 
 
 " for fuch amufements. I endeavoured, in the turn of my 
 
 " anfwer, to lead him towards the fubjeft of my embafTy, but 
 
 " he feemed not difpofed to enter into it farther than by deli- 
 
 " vering me a little box of old japan, in the bottom of which 
 
 " were fome pieces of agate and other ftones much valued by 
 
 " the Chinefe and Tartars ; and at the top a fmall book written 
 
 " and painted by his own hand, which he defired me to pre- 
 
 " fent to the king my mafter as a token of his friendfhip 
 
 ** faying, that the old box had been 800 years in his family. He, 
 
 ** at the fame time, gave me a book for myfelf alfo written and 
 
 *• painted by him, together with feveral purfes for Areca nut. He 
 
 " likewife gave a purfe of the fame fort to Sir George Staunton, 
 
 •* and fent fome fmall prefents to the other gentlemen of the 
 
 ** embafly. After this feveral pieces of filk or porcelain, but 
 
 *' fee»ingly of no great value, were diftributed among the Tar- 
 
 '* tar princes and chief courtiers, who appeared to receive them 
 
 *' with every pofTible demonftration of hixmility and gra- 
 
 *' litude. 
 
 " The theatrical entertainments confifted of great variety, both 
 " tragical and comical ; feveral diftind pieces were aded in fuc- 
 " ceffion, though without any apparent connexion with one an- 
 
 " other.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ±03 
 
 " other. Some of them were hiftorical, and others of pure 
 ** fancy, partly in recitativoy partly in Tinging, and partly in 
 " plain fpeaking, without any accompaniment of inftrumental 
 " mufic, but abounding in battles, murders, and moft of the 
 *' ufual incidents of the drama. Laft of all was the grand pan- 
 *' tomime which, from the approbation it met with, is, I pre- 
 " fume, confidered as a firft-rate effort of invention and inge- 
 *' nuity. It feemed to me, as far as I could comprehend it, 
 *' to reprefent the marriage of the ocean and the earth. The , 
 " latter exhibited her various riches and productions, dragons, 
 " and elephants, and tygers, and eagles, and oftriches, oaks 
 *' and pines, and other trees of different kinds. The ocean 
 " was not behind hand, but poured forth on the ftage the 
 " wealth of his dominions, under the figures of whales and 
 " dolphins, porpefles and leviathans, and other fea monflers, 
 " befides fhips, rocks, fhells, fpunges, and corals, all performed 
 '* by concealed a(fl:ors, who were quite perfedl in their parts, 
 ** and performed their charadlers to admiration. Thefe two 
 " marine and land regiments, after feparately parading in a cir- 
 " cular proceflion for a confiderable time, at lafl joined to- 
 " gether and, forming one body, came to the front of the flage 
 *' when, after a few evolutions, they opened to the right and 
 " left, to give room for the whale, who feemed to be the com- 
 *' manding officer, to waddle forward ; and who, taking his 
 *' flation exadly oppofite to the Emperor's box, fpouted out of 
 " his mouth into the pit feveral tons of water, which quickly 
 " difappeared through the perforations of the floor. This eja- 
 *' culation was received with the highefl applaufe, and two or 
 " three of the great men at my elbow defired me to take par- 
 
 D D 3 " ticular
 
 ^ao4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " ticular notice of it ; repeating, at the fame time, * Hao^ kung 
 " bao /' — ' charming^ delightful!^ 
 
 " A little before one o'clock in the afternoon we retired, and 
 " at four we returned to court to fee the evening's entertain- 
 " ments, which were exhibited on the lawn, in front of the 
 *' great tent or pavilion, where we had been firft prefented to 
 " the Emperor. He arrived very foon after us, mounted his 
 *' throne, and gave the fignal to begin. We had now wrelV- 
 *' ling and dancing, and tumbling and pofture making, which 
 " appeared to us particularly awkward and clumfy, from the 
 " performers being moftly dreffed according to the Chinele 
 " cojiume^ one infeparable part of which is a pair of heavy 
 " quilted boots with the foles of an inch thick. The wreftlers, 
 " however, feemed to be pretty expert and afforded much di- 
 " verfion to fuch as were admirers of the Palajira. 
 
 " A boy climbed up a pole or bamboo thirty or forty feet 
 " high, played feveral gambols, and balanced himfelf on the 
 *' top of it in various attitudes, but his performance fell far 
 *' fhort of what I have often met with in India of the fame 
 « kind. 
 
 " A fellow lay down on his back, and then railed his feet, 
 ** legs, and thighs from his middle, perpendicularly, fo as 
 * to form a right angle with his body. On the foles of his 
 " feet was placed a large round empty jar, about four feet long 
 " and from two and a half to three feet diameter. This he ba- 
 " lanced for fome time, turning it round and round horizon- 
 
 S " tally.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. S05 
 
 " taHy, till one of the fpedators put a little boy into it, who, 
 " after throwing himfelf into various poftures at the mouth of 
 " it, came out and lat on tlie top. He then flood up, then 
 " fell flat upon his back, then fhifted to his belly, and after 
 *' {hewing a hundred tricks of that fort, jumped down upon 
 " the ground and relieved his coadjutor. 
 
 " A man then came forward and after faftening three flen- 
 " der flicks to each of his boots took fix porcelain di/hes of 
 " about eigliteen inches diameter, and balancing them feparate- 
 " ly at the end of a little ivory rod, which he held in his 
 " hand, and twirling them about for fome time, put them one 
 " after the other upon the points of the fix bootflicks above- 
 *' mentioned, they continuing to turn round all the while. He 
 " then took two fmall fticks in his left hand, and put difhes 
 " upon them in the fame manner as upon the other, and alfo 
 " one more upon the little finger of his right hand, fo that he 
 " had nine diOies annexed to him at once, all twirling together, 
 *' which in a few minutes he took off one by one and placed 
 " them regularly on the ground, without the ilighteft inter- 
 *' rupticn or mifcarriage. 
 
 " There were many other things of the fame kind, but I 
 " faw none at all comparable to the tumbling, rope-danc- 
 " ing, wire- walking, and ftraw-balancing of Sadler's-Wells ; 
 neither did I obferve any feats of equitation in the ftvle of 
 Hughes's and Alhley's amphitheatres, although I had been 
 always told that the Tartars were remarkably fkilful in the 
 inftrudicn and diftipiine of their horfes. Laft of all were 
 
 " the 
 
 {( 
 
 v
 
 2o6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 *' the fireworks which, in fome particulars, exceeded any 
 " thing of the kind I had ever feen. In grandeur, magnifi- 
 " cence, and variety, they were, I own, inferior to the Chi- 
 " nefe fireworks we had feen at Batavia, but infinitely fuperior 
 " in point of novelty, neatnefs, and ingenuity of contrivance. 
 " One piece of machinery I greatly admired ; a green chefl of 
 ** five feet fquare was hoifted up by a pulley to the height of 
 " fifty or fixty feet from the ground ; the bottom was fo con- 
 " flrudled as then fuddenly to fall out, and make way for twenty 
 " or thirty firings of lanterns inclofed in the box to defcend 
 " from it, unfolding themfelves from one another by degrees 
 " fo as at laft to form a colledion of at leaft five hundred, each 
 " having a light of a beautifully coloured flame burning brightly 
 *' within it. This devolution and developement of lanterns 
 *' (which appeared to me to be compofed of gauze and paper) 
 ** were feveral times repeated, and every time exhibited a dif- 
 " ference of colour and figure. On each fide was a correfpon- 
 " dence of fmaller boxes, which opened in like manner as the 
 *' others, and let down an immenfe network of fire, with divi- 
 " vifions and copartments of various forms and dimenfions, 
 *' round and fquare, hexagons, odagons fand lozenges, which 
 " fhone like the brighteft burnilhed copper, and flafhed like 
 " prifmatic lightning, with every impulfe of the wind. The 
 " diverfity of colours indeed with which the Chinefe have the 
 " fecret of cloathing fire feems one of the chief merits of their 
 " pyrotechny. The whole concluded with a volcano, or ge- 
 " neral explofion and difcharge of funs and ftars, fquibs, boun- 
 " cers, crackers, rockets, and grenadoes, which involved the 
 •' gardens for above an hour after in a ctoud of intolerable 
 
 '* fmoke;
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 207 
 
 " fmoke. Whilft; thefe entertainments were going forward the 
 " Emperor fent to us a variety of refreftiments, all which, 
 " as coming from him, the etiquette of the court required us 
 " to partake of, although we had dined but a fhort time 
 " before. 
 
 " However meanly we muft think of the tafte and delicacy 
 ** of the court of China, whofe moft refined amufements feem 
 " to be chiefly fuch as I have now defcribed, together with the 
 " wretched dramas of the morning, yet it miift be confefled, 
 " that there was fomething grand and impofing in the general 
 effe£t that refulted from the whole fpecfacle. The Emperor 
 himfelf being feated in front upon his throne, and all his 
 great men and oflScers attending in their robes of ceremony, 
 " and ftationed on each fide of him, fome ftanding, .fome fit- 
 *' ting, fome kneeling, and the guards and ftandard-bearers be- 
 *' hind them in incalculable numbers. A dead filence was ri- 
 " gldly obferved, not a fylla^ble articulated, nor a laugh ex- 
 " ploded during the whole performance." 
 
 Such was the reception and the entertainment of the Britlfh 
 Embaflador at the court of Gchol, in Man-tcboo Tartary, dur- 
 ing the days of the feftival of the Emperor's anniverfary. I 
 now proceed to give fome account of the manner in which the 
 Dutch Embafladors were received, and the entertainments that 
 took place on the occafion of the feftival of the new year, as 
 related in the manufcript journal above alluded to. 
 
 Thl&
 
 2o8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 This journalifl: obferves that, on approaching the capital of 
 the empire, they were not a little aftoniflied to find that the 
 farther they advanced the more miferable and poor was the ap- 
 parent condition of the people, and the face of the country ; 
 the clay-built huts and thofe of ill-burnt bricks were crum- 
 bling to dull; the temples were in ruins, the earthen gods were 
 denioliflied, and tlieir fragments ftrewed on the ground ; and 
 the diftrid was thinly inhabited. The following day they en- 
 tered Pekin, but were turned out again to take up their lodgings 
 in the fuburbs, in a fort of liable. From this place they were or- 
 dered to proceed to the palace in their old travelling dreCes, as 
 their baggage was not yet arrived. They were drawn in fmall 
 carts as crazy and as much out of order as their own dreffcs. Sit- 
 ting in the bottom of thefe carts, without any feats, they waited 
 within the walls of the palace a full hour, while an empty room 
 was fwept out for their reception. Having remained here for 
 forae time, a few planks were brought in, on which were ar- 
 ranged a number of difhes of meat and fifh, ftewed in different 
 ways. Having finiihed their repaft, thus ended their firft day's 
 vifit. 
 
 The following morning, at five o'clock, they were again 
 fummoned to court, and ufhered into a fmall room like that of 
 the preceding day, without any kind of furniture. The wea- 
 ther being extremely cold, the thermometer many degrees be- 
 low the freezing point, the Embafladors prevailed on the people 
 to make a little fire which after fome time was brought in, not 
 however without letting them underftand that it was an extra- 
 ordinary
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 309 
 
 ordinary mark of favour, it being the cuftom of the Chinefc 
 to let all Embafladors wait the arrival of the Emperor in the 
 open air. . 
 
 At lengtli the Emperor made his appearance, carried by 
 eight men in a yellow fedan chair. On his approaching the 
 place where the Embafladors and their fuite were ft:anding, they 
 were diredled by the mafter of the ceremonies to fall down on 
 their knees, and in this pofture the firO; Embaflador was in- 
 ftrudted to hold in both his hands, above his head, the gold 
 box in which was contained the letter for the Emperor : the 
 fecond mlnlfler then ftcpped forwards, and took the letter out 
 of his hands, which he delivered to the Emperor ; and, at the 
 fame time, they were direded to bow their heads nine times to 
 the ground, in token of acknowledgment for the gracious 
 reception they had met with from his Chinefc Majefly. 
 
 This ceremony being ended, they were defired to follow the 
 Emperor's chair, which was carried to the fide of a pond or 
 bafon in the gardens, then frozen over. From this place the 
 Emperor was drawn on a fledge to a tent pitched on the ice, 
 whilft the EmbalTador and his fuite were conduded into a dirty 
 hovel little better than a plg-ftye, where they were defired to 
 fit down on a fort of bench built of ftone and mortar ; for, like 
 the room they were put into on a former day, it was defliitute 
 of the leaft furniture;' and they were told that fomethlng prc- 
 fently would be brought for them to eat. On complaining to 
 their condudlors that this was not the manner in which they 
 were accuftomed to fit down to meat, and that they did not con- 
 
 E ¥ ceivc
 
 4,^ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ccive fuch apartments to be at all fuitable to the fituation the7 
 had the honour to hold, they were fhortly afterwards con- 
 ducted into another room, little better however than the firft» 
 but partly furniftied with a few old chairs and tables. The 
 candlefticks were fmall blocks of wood, to which the candles 
 were faftened with a couple of nails. A few difhes of ftewed 
 meat were ferved up and, as a great delicacy from the. Em- 
 peror's table, were brought in, without any didi, a pair of 
 flag's legs, which the Chinefe threw down upon the naked 
 table ; and for this mark of imperial favour they were required 
 to make the caftomary genufledlions and nine proftrations. 
 
 Van Braam, in the journal which he or fome of his friends 
 publifhed in Paris, gives a curious account of the manner in 
 which they were fed from the Emperor's table : " La viande 
 " confiftait en un morceau de cotes fur lequelles il n'y avait 
 " point un demi-pouce d'epaifleur d'une chair maigre, en un 
 " petit OS de I'epaule ou il n'y avait prefque pas de chair, et en 
 " quatre ou cinq autres offemens fournis par le dos ou par les 
 " pattes d'un mouton, et qui femWaient avoir ete deja ronges» 
 " Tout ce de'goutant enfemble etait fur un plat fale et paraiflait 
 " plutot deftine a faire le regal d'un chien que le repas d'un 
 " homme. En Holland le dernier des mendians recevrait, dans 
 " un hopital, une pittance plus propre, et cependant c'eft une 
 " marque d'honneur de la part d'un Empereur envers un Am- 
 *' bafladeur ! Peut-etre meme etait-ce le refte du Prince, et dans 
 '* ce cas, felon I'opinion des Chinois, c'etait le dernier terme 
 ** de la faveur, puifque nous pouvions achcver I'os que fa Ma- 
 " jefte avait commence a nettoyer."— " The meat confifted of a 
 
 " fmall
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. n-r 
 
 fmall piece of the ribs, on which there was not half an inch 
 in thicknefs of lean flefh, and a fraall flioulder-blade almoft 
 without any upon it ; and in four or five other pieces of 
 bones from the back, or the legs of a fheep, which appeared 
 to have been already gnawed. The whole of this difgufting 
 mefs was brought upon a dirty plate, and feemed much rather 
 intended to feaft a dog than as a refrefliment for man. In 
 Holland the meaneft beggar would receive in an hofpital his 
 allowance in a neater manner; and yet it was intendsd as a 
 mark of honour on the part of an Emperor towards an Em- 
 baflador ! Perhaps it was even the remains of the Sovereign, 
 and in that cafe, according to the opinion of the Chinefe, it 
 was the greateft poffible a£t of favour, fince we fhould then 
 have had an opportunity of finifhing the bone which his Im- 
 perial Majefty had begun to pick." 
 
 The Dutch gentlemen, equally difgufled with the meannefs 
 and filthinefs of the place, and with the pride and haughtinef* 
 of the people, became now reconciled to the fhabby appearance 
 of their old travelling dreffes, which they began to confider as 
 fully good enough for the occafion. 
 
 Having finiftied their elegant repaft, the amufements of the 
 day commenced on the ice. The Emperor made his appear- 
 ance in a fort of fledge, fupported by the figures of four dra- 
 gons. This machine was moved about by feveral great Man- 
 darins, fome dragging before, and others pufhing behind. The 
 four principal minifters of ftate were alfo drawn upon the ice 
 in their fledges by inferior mandarins. Whole troops of civil 
 
 E E 2 and
 
 212 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 and military officers foon appeared, fome on fledges, feme on 
 fkalts, and others playing at football upon the ice, and he 
 that picked up the ball was rewarded by the Emperor. The 
 ball was then hung up in a kind of arch, and feveral mandarins 
 {hot at it, in paffing on Ikaits, with their bows and arrows. 
 Their Awaits were cut ofFfliort under the heel, and the fore-part 
 was turned up at right angles. Owing to this form, or to the 
 inexpertnefs of the fkaiters, they could not ftop themfelves on 
 a fudden, but always tumbled one over the other whenever 
 they came near the edge of the ice, or towards the quarter where 
 the Emperor happened to be. 
 
 Leaving this place, they were carried through feveral nar- 
 row ftreets, compofed of miferable houfes, forming a furprifmg 
 contraft with the proud walls of the palace. They were cen- 
 duded into a fmall room of one of thefe houfes, almoft void of 
 furniture, in order to pay their complimients to Ho-tchnng-tang^ 
 the Collao, or prime minifter, whom they found fitting crofs- 
 legged on a truckle bedftead with cane bottom. Before this 
 creature of fortune, whofe fate I fhall have occafion here- 
 after to notice, they were obliged to go dov/n on their 
 knees. Like a true prime minifter of China, he waved all 
 converfation that might lead towards bufinels, talked to them 
 of the length of their journey, was aftouilhed how they bore 
 the cold weather in fuch fcanty clothing, and fuch like general 
 topics, which, in fa£t, fignified nothing. From the firft minif- 
 ter they paid their vifit to the fecond, whom they found lodged 
 in a fimilar manner ; after which they returned to their mean 
 apartments in the city, more fatisfied on a comparifon with 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 213 
 
 the miferable little chambers in which they had found the two 
 firft minifters of this far-famed empire lodged, and the mean 
 hovels which they met with in the very center of the fpace fhut 
 in by the walls of the imperial palace. The impreflions that 
 the events and tranfa£lions of this day made on the minds of 
 the vlfitors were thofe of utter aftonifhment, on finding every 
 thing fo very much the reverfe of what they had been led to 
 exped. 
 
 The following day they were again drawn to court in their 
 little carts, before four o'clock in the morning, where, after 
 having waited about five hours in empty rooms, fimilar to 
 thofe of the preceding day, two or three great men [Ta-gin) 
 called upon them, but behaved towards them in a diftant, 
 fcornful, and haughty manner. " We had once more," ob- 
 ferves the Dutch journalift, from which I quote, " an occafion 
 " to remark the furprizing contraft of magnificence and mean- 
 " nefs in the buildings, and of pride and littlenefs in the per- 
 " fons belonging to the imperial palace." 
 
 After thefe interviews, they werefufFered to remain a day or 
 two at home ; but on a bag of dried grapes being brought by a 
 mandarin from the Emperor, they were required to thank him 
 for the prefent with nine proftrations, as ufual. Another time 
 a little paftry from the imperial kitchen demanded the fame ce- 
 remony. In fhort, whether at home or in the palace, the 
 Chinefe were determined they fiiould be kept in the conftant 
 pradice of the ioo-too, or ceremony of genuflexion and pro- 
 flration. 
 
 On
 
 £14 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 On the 26th of January, the Embafladors received notice 
 that ic was expe£led they fhould attend the procefllon of the 
 Emperor to the temple, where he was about to make an offer- 
 ing to the God of Heaven and of earth. Having waited accord- 
 ingly by the road fide, from three o'clock in the morning till 
 fix, the weather difmally cold, Fahrenheit's thermometer (land- 
 ing at 1 6°. below the freezing point, the Emperor at length 
 faffed in his chair, when they made the ufual proftrations and 
 returned home. 
 
 The next morning they were again required to proceed to 
 the fame place, and at the fame early hour, to witnefs his re- 
 turn and again to go through the ufual ceremony. 
 
 On the 29th, they were again fummoned to attend by the 
 toad fide to do homage before the Emperor, as he paffed 
 them on his way to a pagoda or poo-ta-la^ a kind of temple or 
 monaftery, where a great number of priefts, clothed in yellow, 
 lived together in a ftate of celibacy ; and here he made his 
 burnt-offerings. The myftical rates performed, prefents were 
 brought out for the Embaffador and fuite, and alfo for the 
 King of Holland, confifling of little purfes, flimfey filks, and 
 a ccarfe ftuff fomewhat fimilar to that known by feamen under 
 the name of bunting ; and, in token of gratitude for this mark 
 of imperial kindnefs, they were direded again to bow down 
 their heads to the ground. 
 
 On the 30th, it was announced to them that the Emperor 
 intended to pay a vifit to his palace at Tuen-inin-ytieri^ and that 
 
 it
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 115 
 
 it would be neceffary for them to follow him thither ; after 
 having, as ufual, paid their refpedts in the Chinefe manner by 
 the road fide as he pafled. 
 
 On the 31ft, they were conduced round the grounds of 
 Yuen-min-yuen by feveral Mandarins, and received great fatiC» 
 faction in viewing the vaft variety of buildings, and the good 
 tafte in which the gardens and pleafure grounds were laid out, 
 and which wore an agreeable afpedt, even in the depth of win- 
 ter. In one of the buildings they faw the feveral prefents de- 
 pofited, which had been carried the preceding year by the Earl 
 of Macartney. They were ftowed away with no great care, 
 among many other articles, in all probability never more to fee 
 the light of day. It feems the elegant carriages of Hatchet, that 
 were finifhed with fo much care and objedls of admiration 
 even in London, were here carelefsly thrown behind one of 
 their mean and clumfey carts, to which they pretended to beftow 
 a preference. Capricious as children, the toy once played with 
 muft be thrown afide and changed for fomething new; or, in 
 this inftance, it would not be out of charafter to fuppofe, that 
 the two vehicles had defignedly been placed together to point 
 out to Europeans of how little eftimation the Chinefe confi- 
 dered their articles of oftentation, when they could perform the 
 fame fervices by fimpler and lefs expenfive means. 
 
 The Dutch Embafladors and their fuite were now to have a 
 fpecimen of the court entertainments, and the polite amufements 
 of this grand empire. They confifted chiefly of the contor- 
 tions of the human body, pra£tifed by pofture maftcrs ; of 
 
 rope-
 
 c,6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ropc-danclng, ami a fort of pantomimic performance, ihe prin- 
 cipal charaders of which were men drefled in flcins, and going 
 on all-fours, intended to reprefent wild beafts ; and a parcel of 
 boys habited in' the dreffes of mandarins, who were to hunt 
 thein. This extraordinary chace, and the mufic, and the rope- 
 dancing, put the Emperor into fuch good humour, that he re- 
 warded the performers very liberally. And the Emprefs and 
 the ladies, who were in an upper part of the houfe concealed 
 behind a fort of Venetian blinds, appeared from their tittering 
 noife to be highly entertained. The whole concluded, though 
 in the middle of the day, with a variety of fire-works; and the 
 Chinefe part of the company departed feemingly well fatisBed 
 with thefe diverfions. 
 
 An eclipfe of the moon happening on the fourth of Febru- 
 ary gave occafion to the Embaffadors to enjoy a little reft at 
 home, though they were fummoned to attend the palace at a 
 very early hour in the morning. The Emperor and his man- 
 darins were engaged the whole day in devoutly praying the 
 gods that the moon might not be eaten up by the great dragon 
 that was hovering about her. Recovered from their apprehen- 
 fions, an entertainment was given the following day, at which 
 the Embaffadors were required to be prefent. After a number 
 of juggling tricks and infantine fports, a pantomime, intended 
 to be an exhibition of the battle of the dragon and the moon^ 
 was reprefented before the full court. In this engagement two 
 or three hundred priefts, bearing lanterns fufpended at the ends 
 of long fticks, performed a variety of evolutions, dancing and 
 capering about, fometimes over the plain, and then over chairs 
 
 3 and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. cj; 
 
 And tables, affording to his Imperial Majefly and to his couriieis 
 the greatefi; pleafure and fatisfadlion. 
 
 « 
 
 On the fifteenth of February the Dutch Embafladors left 
 Pekin, having remained there thirty-fix days, during which 
 they were fcarcely allowed to have a fingle day's rcfl:, but 
 were obliged, at the moft unfeaTonable hours, in the depth of 
 winter, when the thermometer was feldom higher than lo or 
 12 degrees below the freezing point, to dance attendance upon 
 the Emperor and the great officers of ftate, whenever they 
 might think fit to call upon them ; and to fubmit to the degrad- 
 ing ceremony of knocking the head nine times agalnil the 
 ground, at leaft on thirty difFerent occafions, and without hav- 
 ing the fatisfadion of gaining by this unconditional compliance 
 any one earthly thing, beyond a compliment from the Empe- 
 ror, that they •went through their projlrations to admiration I 
 And they were finally obliged to leave the capital without be- 
 ing once allowed to fpeak on any kind ofbufinefs, or evea 
 afked a fingle queflion as to the nature of their miflion, which, 
 indeed, the Chinefe were determined to take for granted was 
 purely complimentary to their great Emperor. 
 
 The manufcript I quote from defcribes minutely all the pan- 
 tomimic performances, the tricks of conjurors and jugglers, and 
 the feats of pofture-mafters, but as they feem to be pretty much 
 of the fame kind as were exhibited before the Britifh Embafly 
 in Tartary, as defcribed by Lord Macartney, I forbear to re- 
 late them. Enough has been faid to fhew the tafte of the court 
 in this refpe<Sl, and the ftate of the drama in China. 
 
 F F I fufped,
 
 2x8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 I fufpedl, however, that the amufements of the theatre have 
 in Ibme decree degenerated at court fince the time of the Tartar 
 conqueft. Dancing, riding, vvreftling, and pofture-making, 
 are more congenial to the rude and unpoUfhed Tartar than the 
 airs and dialogue of a regular drama, which is better fuited to 
 the "-enius and fplrit of the ceremonious and effeminate Cliinefc) 
 I am led to this obfervation from the very common cuftom 
 among the Chinefe officers of ftate of having private theatres 
 in their houfes, in which, Inftead of the juggling tricks above 
 mentioned, they occafionally entertain their guefts with regular 
 dramatic performances. In the courfe of our journey through 
 the country and at Canton, we were entertained with a num- 
 ber of exhibitions of this kind ; and as " the purpofe of playing," 
 as our immortal bard has obferved, " both at the firft, and 
 " now, was, and is, to hold as 'twere the mirror up to nature," 
 it may not be foreign to the prefent fubjed to take a brief no- 
 tice of fuch performances* 
 
 The fubjeds of the pieces exhibited are for the moft part 
 hiftorical, and relate generally to the tranfaftions of remote 
 periods, in which cafes the dreffes are conformable to the an- 
 cient cojlume of China. There are others, however, that repre- 
 fent the Tartar conqueft, but none built on hiftorical events 
 fubfequent to that period. But the ancient drama is preferred 
 by the critics. They have alfo comic pieces, in which there 
 is always a buffoon, whofe grimaces and low jefts, like thofe of 
 the buffoons in our own theatres, obtain from the audience the 
 greatefl fhare of applaufe. The dialogue in all their dramas, 
 whether ferious or comic, is conduced in a kind of mono- 
 tonous
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 21^ 
 
 tonous recitative, fometimes however rifing or finking a few 
 tones, which are meant to be expreffive of paffionate or queru- 
 lous cadences. The fpeaker is interrupted at intervals by flirill 
 harfh mufic, generally of wind inftruments, and the paufes are 
 invariably filled up with a loud crafh, aided by the fonorous 
 and deafening gong, and fometimes by the kettle drum. An 
 air or fong generally follows. Joy, grief, rage, defpair, mad- 
 nefs, are all attempted to be exprefled in fong on the Chinefe 
 ftage. I am not fure that a vehement admirer of the Italian 
 opera might not take umbrage at the reprefentation of a Chinefe 
 drama, as it appears to be fomething fo very like a burlefque on 
 that fafhionable fpecies of dramatic entertainment ; nor is the 
 Chinefe ftage wanting In thofe vocal warblers, the nature of 
 whom, as we are told by the Ingenious and very entertaining 
 Martin Sherlock, a French lady explained to her little Inquifi- 
 tlve daughter, by informing her, that there was the fame differ- 
 ence between them and m^n, as between an ox and a bull. 
 Such creatures are indeed more neceflary to the Chinefe theatre, 
 as the manners of the country prohibit women from appearing 
 in public. 
 
 The unity of adion is fo far preferved, that they have adual- 
 ly no change of fcene ; but change of place muft frequently be 
 fuppofed. To affift the imagination in this refpedt, their ma- 
 nagement is whimfical enough. If It be neceflary to fend a ge- 
 neral on a diftant expedition, he mounts a ftick, takes two or 
 three turns round the ftage, brandlflies a little whip, and fings a 
 fong ; when this is ended, he ftops fhort, and recommences 
 his recitative, when the journey is fuppofed to be performed. 
 
 F F 2 The
 
 210 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The want of icenery is fometlmes fupplled by a very unclaf- 
 fical figure, which, juft the reverfe of the pro/op opoeia or perfo- 
 nification of grammarians, confiders perlbns to reprefent things. 
 If, for inrtance, a walled city is to be ftormed, a parcel of fol- 
 diers, piling themfelves on a heap acrofs the ftage, are fuppofed 
 to reprefent the w^all over which the ftorming party is to 
 fcramble. This puts one in mind of the fhifts of Nick Bot- 
 tom. " Some man or other muft prefent wall," and, " let 
 " him have fome plaifter, or fome lome, or fome rough- caft 
 *' about him to fignify wall." 
 
 The audienc? Is never left in doubt as to the charadter which 
 is produced before it. Like the ancient Greek drama and, in 
 imitation thereof, all our old plays, the drainatis perfo72ce In- 
 troduce themfelves in appropriate fpeeches to the acq^uaintance 
 of the fpedators. 
 
 As to the time of a£lion, a fmgle drama will fometlmes In- 
 clude the tranfadions of a whole century, or even of a dynafty 
 more than twice the length of that period ; which, among other 
 abfurdities, gave Voltaire occafion to compare what he thought 
 to be a literal tranflation of the Orphan of the Houfe of T'chao^ 
 " to ihofe monftrous farces of Shakefpear, which have been 
 " called tragedies ;" farces, however, which will continue to 
 be read 1by thofe who underftand them, which he did not, with 
 heartfelt emotion and delight, when his Orphan of Chhia fhall 
 have funk into the negledt even of his own admiring coun- 
 trymen. 
 
 In
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. aai 
 
 In this miferable compofition of Father Premare, for it can 
 fcarcely be called a tranflation, there is neither di£tlon, nor 
 fentiment, nor character ; it is a mere tiflue of unnatural, or 
 at leaft very improbable events, fit only for the amufement of 
 children, and not capable of raifing one fingle paflion, but 
 that of contempt for the tafte of thofe who could exprefs an 
 admiration of fuch a compofition. The denouement of the 
 piece is materially affifted by means of a dog : but this part of 
 the ftory is told, and not exhibited ; the Chinefe tafte not be- 
 ing quite fo depraved, in this inftance, as to admit the perform- 
 ance of a four-footed animal on the ftage. 
 
 This drama with ninety-nine others, publifhed together in 
 one work, are confidered as the claffical ftock-pieces of the 
 Chinefe ftage ; but like ourfelves, they complain that a depraved 
 tafte prevails for modern produdions very inferior to thofe of 
 ancient date. It is certainly true, that every fort of ribaldry 
 and obfcenity are encouraged on the Chinefe ftage at the prefent 
 day. A fet of players of a fuperior kind travel occafionally 
 from Nankin to Canton ; at the latter of which cities, it feems, 
 they meet with confiderable encouragement from the Hong 
 merchants, and other wealthy inhabitants. At thefe exhibitions 
 the Englifti are foraetimes prefent. The fubjeit and the con- 
 duct of one of their ftock pieces, which being a great favourite 
 is frequently repeated, are fo remarkable, that I cannot forbear 
 taking fome notice of it. A woman being tempted to murder 
 her hufband performs the adl whilft he is afleep, by ftriking a 
 fmall hatchet into his forehead. He appears on the ftage with 
 a large gafti juft above the eyes, out of which idues a prodigious 
 
 efFufion
 
 222 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 efFufion of blood, reds about for fome time, bemoaning his la- 
 mentable fate in a fong, till exhaufted by lofs of blood, he 
 falls, and dies. The woman is feized, brought before a ma- 
 giftrate, and condemned to be flayed alive. The fentence is 
 put i,n execution ; and, in the following a£t, fhe appears upon 
 the ftage not only naked, but completely excoriated. The thin 
 wrapper w^ith which the creature (an eunuch) is covered, who 
 fuftains the part, is ftretched fo tight about the body, and fo 
 well painted, as to reprefent the difgufting obje<£l of a human 
 being deprived of its fkin ; and in this condition the charadler 
 fings or, more properly fpeaking, whines nearly half an hour 
 on the ftage, to excite the compaffion of three infernal or ma- 
 lignant fpirits who, like ^acus, Minos, and Rhadamanthus, 
 fit in judgment on her future deftiny. I have been informed 
 that it is fcarcely poflible to conceive a more obfcene, indelicate, 
 and difgufting obje£t, than this favourite exhibition, which, if 
 intended "to hold th e mirror up to nature," it is to nature in 
 its moft grofs, rude, anduncivilized ftate, ill-agreeing with the 
 boafted morality, high polifli, refined delicacy, and ceremoni- 
 ous exterior of the Chinefe nation ; but it tends, among other 
 parts of their real condud in life, to ftrengthen an obfervation 
 I have already made with regard to their filial piety, and which, 
 with fev/ exceptions, may perhaps be extended to moft of their 
 civil and moral inftitutions, " that they exift more in ftate 
 " maxims, than in the minds of the people." As, however, a 
 Chinefe might be led to make fimilar reflexions on the exhibi- 
 tion of Harlequin Skeleton, and thofe numerous reprefentations 
 that of late years have crept upon our own ftage, where ghofts, 
 hobgoblins, and bleeding ftatues are called in aid oixhcfpeffaclc, 
 
 X I {hould
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 223 
 
 I fhould hefitate to draw'any general conclufion, with regard to 
 their tafte, from the particular exhibition of a woman flayed 
 alive, were they not in the conftant praftice of performing 
 other pieces that, in point of immorality and obfcenity, are ftill 
 infinitely worfe ; fo vulgarly indelicate and fo filthy, that the 
 European part of the audience is fometimes compelled by dif- 
 guft to leave the theatre. Thefe are fuch as will not bear de- 
 fcriptlon, nor do I know to what fcenic reprefentations they 
 can with propriety be compared, unlefs to thofe grofs inde- 
 cencies of Theodora, which Procopius has defcribed to have 
 been exhibited on the Roman ftage, in the reign of Juftinian *. 
 The people who encourage them muft be funk very deep in in- 
 telledual groflhefs, and have totally loft fight of all decency. 
 Thefe and fimilar fcenes may be confidered among the ill effeds 
 of excluding women from their due fhare of influence in fociety. 
 
 It would be impoflible to compliment the court of Pekin on 
 the elegance and refinement of its entertainments, but at the 
 expence of truth and reafon. Thofe of Tartar origin will no 
 more bear a comparifon with the noble contefts of ftrength and 
 agility difplayed by the old hardy Romans in the Circenfian 
 games, than the regular drama of the Chinefe will admit of be- 
 ing meafured by the fofter, but more refined and rational amufe- 
 ments of a fimilar kind in Europe. It is true the fcenic repre- 
 fentations in the decline of the Roman empire, as they are de- 
 fcribed to us, appear to have been as rude and barbarous as 
 thofe of the Chinefe. They began by exhibiting in their vaft 
 
 * See G'llhon, under Emperor Juftinian : and Mena^iana, in which is given ths 
 tranQatioji of a very extraordinary paiTage from Procopius. 
 
 amphi-
 
 224 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 amphitheatre the rare and wonderful produdlious of nature, 
 Forcfts enlivened with Innumerable birds ; caverns pouring forth 
 lions, and tygers, and panthers, and other beads of prey ; 
 plains covered with the elephant, the rhinofceros, the zebra, 
 the oftrich, and other curious animals, which the wilds of 
 Africa furniflied, were all brought together within the circuit 
 oi the are.'ia. Not fatisfied with the rich produdions of the 
 earth, the fea muft alfo become tributary to their amufements. 
 The ar-ena was convertible into a fiieet of water ; and, at length, 
 the two '' elements concluding a marriage, as on the Chinefe 
 theatre, produced a race of monfters which, according to the 
 Latin poet's * defcription, might vie with thofe of China. 
 
 " Non folum nobis fylveilria cernere monflra 
 " Contigit, squoreos ego cum certantibus iirfis 
 " Speflavi vitulos, et equorum nomine dignum 
 " Sed difForme genus." 
 
 Where Sylvan monfters not alone appear, 
 But fea-cows ftruggle with the fhaggy bear, 
 And horfes of the deep, a fhapelefs race. 
 
 In fliort, the greater part of the amufements of the Chinefe 
 are, at the prefent day, of a nature fo very puerile, or fo grofs 
 and vulgar, that the tricks and the puppet-fhews which are 
 occafionally exhibited in a common fair of one of the country 
 towns of England, may be confidered as comparatively po- 
 liflied, interefting, and rational. In fiight-of-hand, in pofture- 
 making, rope-dancing, riding, and athletic exercifes, they are 
 much inferior to Europeans ; but in the variety of their fire- 
 works they, perhaps, may carry the palm againft the whole 
 
 * A. Calpurnius. 
 
 vrorld.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 225 
 
 world. In every other refpcdl the amufements of the capital 
 of China appear to be of a low and trifling nature, neither fuited 
 to the afiedled gravity of the government nor to the generally 
 fuppofed ftate of civilization among the people. 
 
 The old Emperor, as he obferved to Lord Macartney, feldom 
 partook of fuch amufements. Confidering, indeed, all the cir- 
 cumftances conneded with the reign of the prefent dynafty on 
 the throne, the government of an empire of fuch vaft magni- 
 tude, ftored with an almoft incalculable population, muft ne- 
 cefTarily be a tafk of inconceivable vigilance and toil ; a tafk 
 that muft have required all the time, the talents, and the atten- 
 tion of the four fovereigns to enfure the brilliant and unparal- 
 leled fuccefles that have diftinguilhed their long reign. Tchien 
 Lung, at the age of eighty-three, was fo little afflidled with 
 the infirmities of age, that he had all the appearance and a<fti- 
 vity of a hale man of fixty. His eye was dark, quick, and pe- 
 netrating, his nofe rather aquiline, and his complexion, even at 
 this advanced age, was florid. His height I fhould fuppofe to be 
 about five feet ten inches, and he was perfedly upright. 
 Though neither corpulent nor mufcular at eighty-three, it was 
 not difficult to perceive that he once had pofTefled great bodily 
 ftrength. He always enjoyed a vigorous conftitution, which 
 the regularity of his life did not Impair. Like all the Man- 
 tchoo Tartars he was fond of hunting, an exercife that during 
 the fummer months he never negleded. He had the reputation 
 of being an expert bowman, and Inferior only in drawing this 
 weapon to his grandfather Caung-JJoee, who boafts, in his laft 
 
 G G will,
 
 226 T-RAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 will, that he drew a bow of the weight or ftrength of one hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds. 
 
 Nor were the faculties of his mind lefs a£live, or lefs power- 
 ful, than thofe of his body. As prompt in conceiving as re- 
 folute in executing his plans of conqueft, he feemed to com- 
 mand fuccefs. Kind and charitable, as on all occafions he 
 fhewed himfelf to his fubjeds, by remitting the taxes, and ad- 
 miniftering relief in feafons of diftrefs, he was no lefs vindic- 
 tive and relentlefs to his enemies. Impatient of reftraint or re- 
 verfes, he has fometimes been led to adt with injuftice, and to 
 punifh with too great feverity. His irafcible temper was once 
 the caufe of a fevere and lafting afflidion to himfelf, and the 
 circumftances conneded with it are faid to have produced a 
 gloom and melancholy on his mind which never entirely for- 
 fook him. About the middle part of his reign, he made a cir- 
 cuit through the heart of his empire. At Sau-tchoo-foo^ a city 
 that is celebrated for its beautiful ladies which, being purchafed 
 when infants, are educated there for fale to the opulent, he was 
 captivated with a girl of extraordinary beauty and talents, whom 
 he intended to carry back with him to his capital. The Em- 
 prefs, by means of an eunuch, was made acquainted with his 
 new amour, and dreading his future negleft, her fpirits were 
 depreffed to fuch a degree, that a few days after receiving the in- 
 telligence fhe put an end to her exiftence with a cord. The Em- 
 peror, on hearing this melancholy news, was greatly diftrefled 
 and repaired without delay to Pekin. One of his fons, a very 
 amiable youth, fearful of incurring his father's difpleafure, 
 had entertained fomc doubts whether it would be moft proper 
 
 I to
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 227 
 
 to appear before him in deep mourning for his mother, which 
 might be conftrued as an infultto the father, who had been the 
 caufe of her death, or in his robes of ceremony, which would 
 be difrefpe£lful to the memory of his deceafed mother. In this 
 dilemma he confulted his fchoolmafter, who, like a true 
 Chinefe, advifed him to put on both. He did fo and, unfor- 
 tunately for him, covered the mourning withthc ceremonial habit. 
 Tchiai-Lung, whofe afFetSion had now returned for his deceafed 
 Emprefs, and whofe melancholy fate he was deeply lamenting, 
 on perceiving his fon at his feet without mourning, was fo 
 fhocked and exafpcrated at the fuppofed want of filial duty 
 that, in the moment of rage, he gave him a violent kick in an 
 unfortunate place which, after his languifhing a few days, 
 proved fatal. 
 
 None of his four furvlving fons ever poflefTcd any fhare of 
 his confidence or authority which, of late years, were wholly 
 bellowed on his firfl; minifter Ho-chung-tong. He had a due 
 fenfe of religious duties, which he regularly performed every 
 morniag. Having made a vow at the early part of his reign 
 that, fhould it pleafe heaven to grant him to govern his domi- 
 nions for a complete cycle, or fixty years, he would then retire, 
 and refign the throne to his fuccefTor, he religioufly obferved it 
 on the accomplifhment of the event. The fincerity of his faith 
 may partly be inferred from the numerous and fplendid temples 
 he built and endowed in different parts of oriental Tartary, of 
 which the Poo-/d;-/a, or convent of Budha at Gehol, is themoft 
 magnificent. It is faid indeed, from the circumftance of his 
 long and fortunate reign, he had, in his later years, entertained 
 
 G G 2 an
 
 (( 
 
 228 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 an idea, that the Lama, or Budha, or Fo, for they are alt the 
 fame perfonage, had condefcended to become incarnate in his 
 perfon. " However wild and extravagant," obferves Lord 
 Macartney, " fuch a conceit may be regarded, we know from 
 " hiftory how much even the beft underftandings may be per- 
 " verted by profperity, and that human nature, not fatisfied 
 " with the good things of this world, fometimes wifhes to an- 
 " ticipate the condition and felicity of the next. If Alexander 
 " fcorned to owm lefs than Jupiter Ammon for his father, if 
 " many Roman Emperors extorted altars and facrifices in their 
 " lifetime, if, even in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, an Englifh 
 " nobleman * encouraged the belief of his defcent from a fwan, 
 " and was complimented in a dedication upon his feathered 
 pedigree, a fimilar infatuation may be the lefs inexcufable in 
 Kien-Long, a monarch, the length and happinefs of whofe 
 reign, the unlimited obedience of whofe incalculable number 
 of fubjedts, and the health and vigour of whofe body, have 
 hitherto kept out of his view mod of thofe circumftances 
 that are apt to remind other men of their mifery and mor- 
 « tality." 
 
 Till his laft illnefs he continued to rife at three o'clock in 
 the morning, both in winter and fummer. He ufually took fome 
 cordial to fortify his ftomach, and then repaired to his private 
 devotions at one of his temples. After this he read the dif- 
 patches of his great officers, both civil and military, who from 
 their different ftations were ordered to write to him diredtly, 
 
 • Duke of Buckingham. See the notes on this charaiJler in Shakefpear's Henry 
 VIII. Aa i. Scene 2. 
 
 and 
 
 a
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 229 
 
 and not to the tribunals as had ufually been the cafe. About 
 feven he took his breakfaft of tea, wines, and confectionary, 
 when he tranfadted bufinefs with the firfl minifter, confulting 
 with, or direding, him in the weighty matters of ftate, previous 
 to their appearing in regular form before the refpeiflive depart- 
 ments to which they belonged. He had then a kind of levee, 
 which was ufually attended by the collaos, or minifters, and 
 the prefidents of the departments or public boards. At eleven 
 refrefhments were again ferved up and, after bufinefs was over, 
 he either amufed himfelf in the women's apartments, or walked 
 round his palace or gardens. Between three and four he ufually 
 dined, after which he retired to his private rooms and employed 
 himfelf in reading or writing till bed-time, which was always 
 regulated by, and feldom later than, the fetting of the fun. 
 
 Hewasfully perfuaded that his uninterrupted health was chiefly 
 owing to his early retiring to reft, and early rifing ; an obfer- 
 vation, indeed, that in our country has grown into a maxim, and 
 maxims arc generally grounded on truth. The late Lord Mans- 
 field made a point for many years of enquiring from all the 
 aged perfons, that at any time appeared before him to give evi- 
 dence, into their particular mode of living, in order that he 
 might be able to form fome general conclufion with regard to 
 the ca,ufes of their longevity. The refult of his obfervations was, 
 that he could draw no inference from their intemperance or ab- 
 ftemioufnefs with regard to diet or drinking, but that they 
 all agreed in one point, that of being early rifers. 
 
 Tchien-
 
 130 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 7'cbiefi-Lufij rcfi^ncd the throne of China to his fifteenth fon, 
 the prefcnt Kia-kiiig, in February 1796, having completed a 
 reign of fixty years ; and he died in the month of February 
 1799, at the advanced age of eighty-nine years. 
 
 When the Tartars conquered China, they found all the great 
 oflicers of ftate filled by eunuchs, and the palace fwarmed with 
 thefe creatures ; the greater part was immediately difplaced, 
 and other Chinefe of talent and education were put into their 
 places. Having, however, adopted the laws and cuftoms of 
 the conquered, it became necefiary to keep up the ufual efta- 
 b!i(hment of women in the palace, the inevitable confequence 
 of which was the retention of a certain number of eunuchs to 
 look after them. And they are at this moment as numerous, 
 perhaps, in all the palaces, as they were at the conqueft, but 
 none of them are dignified with any office of truft or impor- 
 tance in the ftate. They confider themfelves, however, as ele- 
 vated far above the plebeian rank ; and a bunch of keys or a 
 birch broom gives them all the airs and infolence of office. 
 
 Of thefe eunuchs there are two kinds. The one is fo far 
 cmafculated as never to have the confolation of being a father; 
 the other muft fubmit to lofe every trace of manhood. The 
 firft are entrufted with the infpedion and fuperintendance of 
 the buildings, gardens, and other works belonging to the im- 
 perial palaces, which they are required to keep in order. The 
 Rafibus^ as the miffionaries call them, are admitted into the in- 
 terior of th€ palace. Thefe creatures paint their faces, ftudy 
 
 their
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 231 
 
 their drefs, and are as coquettifh as the ladies, upon whom in- 
 deed it is their chief hufinefs to attend. The greateft favourite 
 fleeps in the fame room with the Emperor, to be ready to ad- 
 minifter to his wifhes ; and in this capacity he finds number- 
 lefs opportunities to prejudice his mafter agalnfl thofe for whom 
 he may have conceived a difllke ; and inftanccs are not wanting 
 where the firft officers in the ftate have been difgraced by means 
 of thefe creatures. 
 
 They are equally detefled and feared by the princes of the 
 blood who refide in the palace, by the court officers, and by 
 the mlffionarles in the employ of government. The latter find 
 it neceflary to make frequent, and fometimes expenfive, pre- 
 fents to thofe in particular about the perfon of his Imperial Ma- 
 jefty. Should any of thefe gentlemen happen to carry about 
 with him a watch, fnufF-box, or other trinket, which the 
 eunuch condefcends to admire, there is no alternative ; the mif- 
 fionary takes the hint, and begs his acceptance of it, knowing 
 very well that the only way to preferve his friendfhlp is to 
 fhare with him his property. An omlffion of this piece of ci- 
 vility has been productive of great injury to the European. 
 The gentleman who regulates and keeps in order the feveral 
 pieces of clock-work in the palace alTured me, that the old 
 eunuch, who was entrufted with the keys of the rooms, ufed 
 to go in by night and ptwpofely derange and break the ma- 
 chinery, that he might be put to the trouble and expence of 
 repairing it. This kappened to him fo often that, at length, 
 he became acquainted with the fecret of applying the proper 
 preventive, which although expenfive was ftlll lefs vexatious than 
 
 the
 
 232 TTIAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the conftant reparation of the mifchief done to tlie articles of 
 which he had the fuperintendance. 
 
 The Chinefe eunuchs are addided to all the vices that diftin- 
 guifh thefe creatures in other countries. There is fcarcely one 
 about the palace, whether of the clafs of porters and fweepers, 
 or of that which is qualified for the inner apartments, but have 
 women in their lodgings, who are generally the daughters of 
 poor people, from whom they are purchafed, and are confe- 
 quentiy confidered as their flaves. It is difficult to conceive a 
 condition in life more humiliating, or more deplorable, than that 
 of a female flave to an eunuch ; but happily for fuch females, in 
 this country the mental powers are not very adive. Several 
 of the miffionaries affured me of the truth of this fafl:, which 
 indeed I have ftrong reafons for believing even of the raftbiis. 
 The keeper of the hall of audience once took me to his lodg- 
 ings, but on coming to the door he defired me to wait till he 
 had made fome arrangements within ; the meaning of which 
 was, until he had removed his lady ou: of the way j nor was 
 he in the leaft difpleafed at my hinting this to him. Being 
 one of the favourite attendants of the ladies of the court, he 
 was of courfe a black eunuch. He was the moft capricious crea- 
 ture in the world ; being fometimes extremely civil and com- 
 municative, fometimes fullen, and not deigning to open his 
 lips ; and whenever he took it into his head to be offended, he 
 was fure to pradife fome little revenge. I fancy he was clerk 
 of the kitchen, for the quality and the quantity of our dinner 
 generally depended on the ftate of his humour. When the re- 
 port of the Embafliulor's making conditions with regard to the 
 
 ceremony
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 233 
 
 ceremony of introdudion firft reached Tuen-miri-yiien^ he was 
 more than ufually peevifh, and conceived, as he thought, a 
 notable piece of revenge. Some pains had been taken to ar- 
 range the prefents in fuch ^ manner in the great hall as to fill 
 the room well, and fet them off to the beft advantage. The 
 old creature, determined to give us additional trouble and to 
 break through the arrangement that had been made, defircd 
 that the whole might be placed at one end of the room. On 
 my objeding to this he pretended to have received the Em- 
 peror's order, and that at all events it muft be obeyed; and the 
 reafon he affigned for the change was, " that his Majefty might 
 " fee them at once from his throne, without being at the trou- 
 " ble of turning his head." 
 
 The great number of thefe creatures about the palace of 
 Tuen-min-yuen made my refidence there extremely difagreeable. 
 They feemed, indeed, to be placed as fpies on our conduct. 
 If I attempted to move ever fo little beyond the court of our 
 apartments, I was fure of being watched and purfued by feme 
 of them ; to perfift in my walk would have thrown the whole 
 palace in an uproar. I one day happened inadvertently to 
 ftray through a thicket, which it feems led towards the apart- 
 ments of the ladies, but I had not proceeded far before 1 heard 
 feveral fqualling voices in the thicket, which I foon recognifed 
 to be thofe of eunuchs. They had run themfelves out of 
 breath in feeking me, and my old friend of the kitchen was 
 not to be pacified for putting him to the hazard, as he pre- 
 tended, of lofing his head by my imprudence. 
 
 H H The
 
 2y^ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The eunuchs and the women are the only companions of 
 the Emperor in his leiiure hours : of the latter, one only has 
 the rank of Emprefs, after whom are two Queens and their 
 numerous attendants, which conftitute the fccond clafs of the 
 eftabliniment ; and the third confifts of fix Queens, and their at- 
 tendants. To thefe three ranks of his wives are attached one 
 hundred ladies, who are ufually called his concubines, though 
 they are as much a legal part of his eftablifhment as the others. 
 They would feem to be of the fame defcription, and to hold the 
 lame rank as the handmaids of the ancient Ifraelites. Their 
 children are all confidered as branches of the Imperial family, 
 but the preference to the fucceffion is generally given to the 
 male ilTue of the firft Emprefs, provided there fhould be any. 
 This however is entirely a matter of choice, the Emperor hav- 
 ing an uncontrouled power of nominating his fucceifor, either 
 in his own family or out of it. The daughters are ufually mar- 
 ried to Tartar princes, and other Tartars of diflindion, but 
 rarely, if ever, to a Chinefe. 
 
 On the acceffion of a new Emperor, men of the firfl: rank 
 and fituation in the empire confider themfelves as highly ho- 
 noured and extremely fortunate, if the graces of their daugh- 
 ters fhould prove fufficient to provide them a place in the lift 
 of his concubines ; in which cafe, like the nuns In fome coun- 
 tries of Europe, they are doomed for ever to refide within the 
 walls of the palace. Such a fate, however, being common in 
 China v\ a certain degree to all women-kind, is lefs to be de- 
 plored than the fimilar lot of thofe in Europe, where one fex 
 is fuppofed to be entitled to an equal degree of liberty with 
 
 the 
 
 il
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 235 
 
 the other ; and as the cuftom of China authorizes the fale of all 
 young women by their parents or relations to men they never 
 faw, and without their confent previoufly obtained, there can 
 be no hardfhip in configning them over to the arms of the prince; 
 nor is any difgrace attached to the condition of a concubine, 
 where every marriage is a legal proftitution. At the death of the 
 fovereign all his women are removed to a feparate building, 
 called by a term which, divefled of its metaphor, implies the 
 Palace of Chajiity^ where they are doomed to refide during the 
 remainder of their lives. 
 
 H n 2
 
 iji TRAVELS IN CHINA., 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Language.— Literature, and the fine Arts. — Sciences. — Mecha- 
 nics, and Medicine. 
 
 Opinion of the Chinefe Language being hieroglyphical erroneous. — Doctor Hagers mif- 
 taket. — Etymological Comparifons fallacious. — Examples of. — Nature of the Chinefe 
 •written CharaEler. — Difficulty and Ambiguity of. — Curious Miflake of an eminent 
 Antiquarian. — Mode of acquiring the CharaHer. — Oral Language. — Mantchoi 
 ^Tartar Alphabet. — Chinefe Literature. — Aftronomy — Chronology. — Cycle offtxls 
 Years. — Geography— 'Arithmetic— Chemical Arts.— Cannon and Gunpoiuder. — 
 Difiillation. — lotteries. — &ilk ManufaElures. — Ivory. —Bamboo. — Paper. — Ink. — 
 Printing.— Mechanics. — Muftc. — Painting — Sculpture. - Architeiiure.— Hotel of 
 
 ' the Englifh Embajfador in Pekin.—The Great Wall. -The Grand Canal. — 
 Bridges. —Cemeteries — Natural Philofophy — Medicine — Chinefe Pharmacopoeia, 
 —^achs. — Contagious Fevers. — Small-pox. — Opthalmia. — Venereal Difeafe. — 
 
 Midwifery. Surgery. — DoBor Gregory s Opinion of their Medical Knowledge. — 
 
 5/V William Joneses Opinion of their general Character . 
 
 JLf no traces remained, nor any authorities could be produced, 
 of the antiquity of the Chinefe nation, except the written cha- 
 racter of their language, this alone would be fufEcient to de- 
 cide that point in its favour. There is fo much originality in this 
 language, and fuch a great and eflential difference between it 
 and that of any other nation not immediately derived from the 
 
 Chinefe,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 257 
 
 Chlnefe, that not the moft diftant degree of affinity can be dif- 
 covered, either with regard to the form of the charadcr, the 
 fyftem on which it is conftrudled, or the idiom, with any other 
 known language upon the face of the globe. Authors, how- 
 ever, and fome of high reputation, have been led to fuppofe 
 that, in the Chinefe character, they could trace fome relation 
 to thofe hieroglyphical or facred infcriptions found among the 
 remains of the ancient Egyptians; others have conlideied it to 
 be a modification of hieroglyphic writing, and that each cha- 
 radler was the fymbol or comprehenfive form of the idea it was 
 meant to exprefs, or, in other words, an abftradl delineation of 
 the objedl intended to be reprefented. To ftrengthen fuch an 
 opinion, they have ingenioufly fele£ted a few inftances where, 
 by adding to one part, and curtailing another, changing a 
 ftraight line into a curved one, or a fquare into a circle, fome- 
 thing might be made out that approached to the pidiure, or the 
 objedl of the idea conveyed by the charadter as, for example, 
 the charader ^y , reprefenting a cultivated piece of ground^ 
 
 they fuppofed to be the picture of an inclofure, turned up in 
 ridges ; yet it fo happens that, in this country, there are no in- 
 
 clofures ; the charader, |-^ a mouthy has been confidered by 
 
 them as a very clofe refemblance of that objed ; j; and "p* 
 above and below, diftindly marked thefe points of poiition ; the 
 
 charader f\. , fignlfying tnati, is, according to their opi- 
 nion, obvioufly an abbreviated reprefentation of the human 
 figure ; yet the very fame charader, with an additional line 
 
 acrofs,
 
 238 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 acrofs, thus /^ > '^^'lii'^l^ by the way approaches nearer to 
 the human figure, having now arms as well as legs, fignifies 
 the abftrad qunlity greai ; and with a fecond line thus "TV 
 
 the material or vifible heaven^ between either of which and 
 man it would be no eafy tafk to find out the analogy ; and ftill 
 
 lefs fo to trace an affinity between any of them, and "^V 
 which fignifies a dog. 
 
 It is true certain ancient charadters are ftill extant, in which 
 a rude reprefentation of the image is employed ; as for inftance, 
 a circle for the fun, and a crefcent for the moon, but thefe ap- 
 pear to have been ufed only as abbreviations, in the fame man- 
 ner as thefe objects are ftill charaderized in our almanacks, and 
 in our aftronomical calculations. Thus alfo the kingdcm of 
 China is defigned by a fquare, with a vertical line drawn through 
 the middle, in conformity perhaps with their ideas of the earth 
 being a fquare, and China placed in its center ; fo far thefe may 
 be confidered as fymbols of the objedls intended to be repre- 
 fented. So, alfo, the numerals one, two, three, being defigned 
 
 by .;=^ ^z- , would naturally fuggeft themfelves as being 
 
 fully as convenient for the purpofe, and perhaps more fo than 
 any other ; and where the firft feries of numerals ended, which 
 according to the univerfal cuftom of counting by the fingers 
 was at ten^ the very ad of placing the index of the right hand 
 on the little finger of the left would fuggeft the form of the 
 
 vertical
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 339 
 
 vertical crofs 4- as the fymbol or reprefentation of the number 
 ten. 
 
 I cannot avoid taking notice in this place of a publication ot 
 Doctor Hager, which he calls an " Explanation of the Elemen- 
 tary CharaBers of the Chincfy In this work he has advanced 
 a mofl extraordinary argument to prove an analogy between the 
 ancient Romans and the Chinefe, from the refemblance which 
 he has fancied to exift between the numeral characters and the 
 numeral founds made ufe of by thofe two nations. The Ro- 
 mans, he obferves, expreffed their numerals one, tv.'O, three, by 
 a correfponding number of vertical ftrokes I. II. III. which the 
 Chinefe place horizontally __ .^=.^=:^. The Romans defigned 
 tlie number ten by an oblique crofs , and the Chinefe by a 
 vertical one +. This refemblance in the forming of their nu- 
 merals, fo fimple and natural that almoft all nations -have 
 adopted it, is furely too flight a coincidence for concluding, 
 that the people who ufe them muft neceffariiy, at fome pe- 
 riod or other, have had communication together. The Dodlor 
 however feems to think ^o, and proceeds to obferve, that the 
 three principal Roman cyphers, I. V. X. or one, five and ten, 
 are denoted in the Chinefe language by the fame founds that 
 they exprefs in the Roman alphabet. This remark, although 
 ingenious, is not corred. One and^t;^, it is true, are expreffed 
 in the Chinefe language by the y and oti of the French, which 
 it may be prefumed, were the founds that the letters I. and V. 
 obtained in the ancient Roman alphabet ; but with regard to 
 the ten, or X, which, he fays, the Chinefe pronounce xe, he is 
 entirely miflaken, the Chinefe word for ten in Pekin Wmg Jhee, 
 
 and
 
 240 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 and in Canton fiap. This error the Do£lor appears to have 
 been led into by confulting fome vocabulary in the Chinefe and 
 Portugucfe languages; in the latter of which the letter X is 
 pronounced like our Jh. But admitting, in its fulled extent, 
 the refemblance of fome of the numerals nfed by the two na- 
 tions, in the fhape of the charader, and of others in the found, 
 it certainly cannot be aflumed to prove any thing beyond a 
 mere accidental coincidence. 
 
 The earlieft accounts of China, after the doubling of the Cape 
 of Good Hope, being written by Portuguefe miffionaries, and 
 the Chinefe proper names ftill remaining to be fpelt in the let- 
 ters of that alphabet, have led feveral etymologifts into great 
 errors, not only with regard to the letter X, but more particu- 
 larly in the m final, and the h incipient, the former being pro- 
 nounced «§•, and the latter with a ftrong afpirate, as Jh. Thus 
 the name of the fecond Emperor of the prefent dynafty is al- 
 moft univerfally written in Europe Cam-bi^ whereas it is as 
 univerfally pronounced in China Caung-Jhee. 
 
 The learned Dodtor feems to be ftill lefs happy in his next 
 conjedure, where he obferves that, as the Romans exprefled 
 their Jive by fimply dividing the X, or ten, fo alfo the ancient 
 charaQer fignifying Jive with the Chinefe was x or ten be- 
 tween two lines thus ^ indicating, as it were, that the number 
 ten was divided in two ; the Dodtor feems to have forgotten that 
 he has here placed his crofs in the Roman form, and not as the 
 Chinefe write it ; and it is certainly a ftrange way of cutting a 
 thing in two, by enclofing it between two lines ; but the learned 
 
 3 feldom
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 241 
 
 feldom baulk at an abfurcUty, when a fyftem is to be efta- 
 bliflied. Tlie Chinefe charader for five is ^^ff^' 
 
 Of all dedudions, thofe drawn from etymological compari- 
 fons are, perhaps, the moft fallacious. Were thefe allowed to 
 have any weight, the Chinefe fpoken language is of fuch a na- 
 ture, that it would be no difficult tafk to point out its relation- 
 fhip to that of every nation upon earth. Being entirely mo- 
 nolyllabic, and each word ending in a vowel or a liquid, and 
 being, at the lame time, deprived of the founds of feveral let- 
 ters in our alphabet, it becomes neceffarily incapable of fupply- 
 ing any great number of diftindl fyllables. Three hundred are, 
 in fidt, nearly as many as an European tongue can articulate, 
 or ear diftlnguiih. It follows, of courfe, that the fame found 
 muft have a great variety of fignifications. The fyllable chingy 
 for example, is adhially exprefled by fifty-one different cha- 
 raders, each having a different, unconnected, and oppofite mean- 
 ing; but it would be the height of abfurdity to attempt to prove 
 the coincidence of any other language with the Chinefe, be- 
 caufe it might happen to poffefs a word fomething like the 
 found of chingy which might alfo bear a fignification not 
 very different from one of thofe fifty-one that it held in the 
 Chinefe. 
 
 The Greek abounds with Chinefe words. Kuuv^ a dog, is in 
 Chinefe both keon and keun, expreffive of the fame animal ; Jy, 
 good, is not very different from the Chinefe hau, which fignifies 
 the fame quality j and the article to is not far remote from /a, 
 
 1 1 he.
 
 442 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 he, or that. Both Greeks and Romans might recognife their firft 
 perfonal pronoun iyu or ego in^o, or as it is fometimes written ngo. 
 TheItaHanaffirmative_/?is lufficiently near theGhinefeyZ»^tf, or zeey 
 expreffing afTent. The French etang, and the Chinefe tang, a pond 
 or lake, are nearly the fame, and their two negatives /<jj- and/oo 
 are not very remote. Lex, loi, le, law, compared with leu, lee, 
 laws and hijlitutes, are examples of analogy that would be decifive 
 to the etymological inquirer. The Englifh word mien, the coun- 
 tenance, and the Chinefe mien, expreffing the fame idea, are 
 nothing difFerent, and we might be fuppofed to have taken our 
 goofe from their^oo. To Jing is chaung, which comes very near 
 our cbatint. The Chinefe call a cat miau, and fo does the Hottentot. 
 The Malay word to know is tau, and the Chinefe monofyllable 
 for the fame verb is alfo tau, though in converfation they gene- 
 rally ufe the compound tchee-tau, each of which feparately have 
 nearly the fame meaning. The Sumatrans have mau for mo- 
 ther, the Chinefe fay moo. On grounds equally flight with 
 thefc have many attempts been made to form conclufions from 
 etymological comparifons. If I miftake not, the very ingenious 
 Mr. Bryant makes the word gate a derivative from the Indian 
 word ghaut, a pafs between mountains. Surely this is going a 
 great deal too far for our little monofyllable. Might we not with as 
 great a degree of propriety fetch ouxjhallow or Jhoal fvoin China, 
 •vfhercjha-loo fignifies a flat fand, occafionally covered with the 
 tide? A noted antiquarian has been led into fome comical miftakes 
 in his attempt to eftablifli a refemblance between the Chinefe 
 and the Irifti languages, frequently by his having confidered 
 the letters of the continental alphabets, in which the Chinefe 
 
 vocabulary
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 243 
 
 Tocabulary he confuhed was written, to be pronounced in the 
 
 fame manner as his own *. 
 
 Whatever 
 
 * For the curiofity of thofe who may be inclined to fpeculate in etymological 
 comparifons between the Chinefe and other languages, I here fubjoin a fliort lift of 
 words in the former, exprefling fome of the moft ftriking objeifts in the creation, 2 
 few fubjedls of natural hiftory, and of fuch articles as from their general ufe are fa- 
 miliar to moft nations ; thefe being of all others the moft likely to have retained 
 their primitive names. The orthography I hare ufed is that of the Englifh language. 
 
 Tie Earth 
 
 tee 
 
 A Quadruped 
 
 Jhoo 
 
 The Air 
 
 kee 
 
 A Bird 
 
 kin 
 
 Fire 
 
 ho 
 
 AFifli 
 
 eu 
 
 Water 
 
 flllSC 
 
 An Infea 
 
 tchong 
 
 The Sea 
 
 hat 
 
 A Plant 
 
 ijau 
 
 A River 
 
 ho 
 
 A Tree 
 
 Jhoi 
 
 A Lake 
 
 tang 
 
 A Fruit 
 
 k»-ffi 
 
 A Mountain 
 
 Jhan 
 
 A Flower 
 
 nuha 
 
 A Wildernefs 
 
 ye-tee 
 
 A Scone 
 
 Jhee 
 
 The Sun 
 
 jee-to 
 
 Gold 
 
 tchin 
 
 The Moon 
 
 yui 
 
 Silver 
 
 in tfe 
 
 The Stars 
 
 J"S 
 
 Copper 
 
 tung 
 
 The Clouds 
 
 yun 
 
 Lead 
 
 yuen 
 
 Rain 
 
 yeu 
 
 Iron 
 
 tii 
 
 Hail 
 
 fivee-tan 
 
 The Head 
 
 too 
 
 Snow 
 
 five 
 
 The Hand 
 
 Jhoo 
 
 Ice 
 
 ping 
 
 The Heart 
 
 > 
 
 Thunder 
 
 luie 
 
 The Leg ' 
 
 koo 
 
 Lightning 
 
 JlMii-tien 
 
 The Foot 
 
 tchiau 
 
 The Wind 
 
 fung 
 
 The Face 
 
 mien 
 
 The Day 
 
 jee or litn 
 
 The Eyes 
 
 yen-Jhing 
 
 The Night 
 
 ye or •vanjiiang 
 
 The Ears 
 
 eul- to 
 
 The Sky or Heaven tien 
 
 The Hair 
 
 too fa 
 
 The Eaft 
 
 tung 
 
 An ox 
 
 nieu 
 
 The Weft 
 
 fee 
 
 A Camel 
 
 loo-too 
 
 The North 
 
 pee 
 
 A Horfe 
 
 ma 
 
 The South 
 
 nan 
 
 An Afi 
 
 loo -tfe 
 
 Man 
 
 jin 
 
 A Dog 
 
 kioon 
 
 Woman 
 
 fooj'm 
 
 A Frog 
 1 1 z 
 
 Uboo 
 
 A Sheep
 
 «44 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Whatever degree of affinity may be difcovered between the 
 founds of the Chhiefe language and thofe of other nations, their 
 written charadter has no analogy whatfoever, but is entirely 
 
 peculiar 
 
 A Sheep 
 
 A Goat, or inouii' 
 
 tain Sheep 
 A Cat 
 
 yang 
 
 ■Jban-yang 
 vnait 
 
 Wool (Sheep' 
 Coals 
 Sugar 
 Cheefe, they 
 
 sHair 
 
 have 
 
 ■)yangmaH 
 tan 
 tang 
 
 } . . 
 
 A Stag 
 A Pidgeon 
 
 Jhan loo 
 hoo tfe 
 
 none but 
 Milk 
 
 thick 
 
 > na'tp'mg, or iced milk 
 
 Poultry 
 
 he 
 
 A Houfe 
 
 
 jiy,a 
 
 An Egg 
 A Goofe 
 
 lee tan 
 
 goo 
 
 A Temple 
 A Bed 
 
 
 tniau 
 tchuang 
 
 Oil 
 Rice 
 
 yeo 
 mee 
 
 A Door 
 A Table 
 
 
 men 
 tat 
 
 Milk 
 
 nai 
 
 A Chair 
 
 
 ye-Ize 
 
 Vinegar 
 Tobacco 
 Salt 
 Silk 
 
 t/oo 
 yen 
 yen 
 t/oo 
 
 A Knife 
 A Pitcher 
 A Plough 
 An Anchor 
 
 
 tau 
 fing 
 lee 
 mau 
 
 Cotton 
 
 mien- wha 
 
 A Ship 
 
 
 tchuan 
 
 Flax Plant 
 Hemp 
 
 ma 
 
 ma 
 
 Money 
 
 
 tften 
 
 I rnufl obferve, however, for the information of thefe philologifts, that fcarcely 
 two provinces in Chim have the fame oral language. The officers and their atten- 
 dants who came with us from the capital could converfe only with the boatmen of 
 the fouthern provinces, through the medium of an ijiterpreter. The charafter of the 
 language is univerfal, but the name or found of the charafter is arbitrary, if 3. con- 
 vention of founds could have been fettled like a convention of marks, one would fuppofe 
 that a commercial intercourfe would have effefted it, at lead in the numeral 
 founds, that mud neceflixrily be interchanged from place to place and myriads of 
 times repeated from one corner of the empire to the other. Let us compare 
 then the numerals of Pekin with thofe of Canton, the two greateft cities in 
 China. 
 
 1. Ye
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 245 
 
 peculiar to Itfelf. Neither the Egyptian infcriptlons, nor the 
 nail-headed charadters, or monograms, found on the Babylo- 
 nian bricks, have any nearer refemblance to the Chlnefe than 
 the Hebrew letters have to the Sanfcrit ; the only analogy that 
 can be faid to exift between them is, that of their being com- 
 pofed of points and lines. Nor are any marks or traces of 
 alphabetic writing difcoverable in the compofition of the 
 Chinefe charadler ; and, if at any time, hieroglyphics have been 
 employed to convey ideas, they have long given way to a col- 
 ledlion of arbitrary figns fettled by convention, and conftruded 
 on a fyftem, as regular and conftant as the formation of founds 
 
 Pekin, 
 
 Canton. 
 
 
 Pekin. 
 
 Canton. 
 
 I. Ye 
 
 yat 
 
 II. 
 
 fliee-ye 
 
 fliap-yat 
 
 2. Ul 
 
 ye 
 
 12. 
 
 fliee-ul 
 
 fhap-ye 
 
 3. faa 
 
 faani 
 
 20. 
 
 ul-fliee 
 
 ye-lhap 
 
 4. foo 
 
 fee 
 
 5°- 
 
 fan-fliee 
 
 faam-fhap 
 
 5. ou 
 
 urn 
 
 31- 
 
 fan-fliee-ye 
 
 faam-fliap-yat 
 
 6. leu 
 
 lok 
 
 3«- 
 
 fan-fliee-ul 
 
 faam-fliap.ye 
 
 7. tehee 
 
 tfat 
 
 100. 
 
 pe 
 
 paak 
 
 8, pas 
 
 pat 
 
 1000. 
 
 tfien 
 
 tfeen 
 
 9. tcheu 
 
 kow 
 
 10,000. 
 
 van 
 
 mau 
 
 10. fhee 
 
 fliap 
 
 lOOjOOO. 
 
 fhe-van 
 
 fliap-man 
 
 If then, in this highly civilized empire, the oral language of the northern part dif- 
 fers fo widely from the fouthern that, in numerous inftances, by none of the etymo- 
 logical tricks* can they be brought to bear any kind of analogy; if the very word 
 which in Pekin implies the number one, be ufed in Canton to exprefs t-wo, how very ab- 
 furd and ludicrous mult thofe learned and laboured differtations appear, that would 
 aflign an oriental origin to all our modern languages ? 
 
 * Such as the addition, deduflion, mutation, and tranfpofition of letters, or even fyllables. Thus 
 Mr. Webbe thinks tliat the derivation of the Greek ^tn'i a tumai, from the Chinefe m-g\n, is felf- 
 evident. 
 
 in
 
 246 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 in any of the European languages arifes out of the alphabets 
 of thofe languages. 
 
 The hlftory of the world affords abundant evidence that, in 
 the dawn of civilization, moft nations endeavoured to fix and 
 to perpetuate ideas by painting the figures of the objedts that 
 produced them. The Egyptian priefthood recorded the myfte- 
 ries of their religion in graphic emblems of this kind ; and the 
 Mexicans, on the firfl: arrival of the Spaniards, informed their 
 prince Montezuma of what was paffing by painting their ideas 
 on a roll of cloth. There is no way fo natural as this of expref- 
 fing, and conveying to the underftanding of others, the images 
 that pafs in the mind, without the help of fpeech. In the 
 courfe of the prefent voyage, an officer of artillery and myfelf 
 were difpatchcd to make obfervations on the fmall ifland of 
 Collao, near the coaft of Cochin-china. In order to make the 
 natives comprehend our defire to procure fome poultry, we 
 drew on paper the figure of a hen, and were immediately fup- 
 plied to the extent of our wants. One of the inhabitants taking 
 up the idea drew clofe behind the hen the figure of an egg, 
 and a nod of the head obtained us as many as we had occa- 
 fion for. The Bosjefmen Hottentots, the moft wild and favage 
 race perhaps of human beings, are in the conftant habit of 
 drawing, on the fides of caverns, the reprefentations of the dif- 
 ferent animals peculiar to the country. When I vifited fome 
 of thofe caverns I confidered fuch drawings as the employ- 
 ment of idle hours ; but, on fince refleding that in almoft all 
 fuch caverns are alfo to be feenthe figures of Dutch boors (who 
 hunt thefe miferable creatures like wild beafts) in a variety of 
 
 attitudes,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 447 
 
 attitudes, fome \?vith guns In their hands, and others in the 
 a£t of firing upon their countrymen ; waggons fometimes pro- 
 ceeding and at others (landing (lill, the oxen unyoked, and 
 the boors fleeping ; and thefe reprefentatlons generally followed 
 by a number of lines fcored like fo many tallies ; I am inclined 
 to think they have adopted this method of informing their 
 companions of the number of their enemies, and the magni- 
 tude of the danger. The animals reprefented were generally 
 fuch as were to be met with in the diftridt where the drawings 
 appeared ; this, to a people who fubfift by the chace and by 
 plunder, might ferve as another piece of important informa-^ 
 tion. 
 
 The Chinefe hiftory, although it takes notice of the time 
 when they had no other method of keeping their records, ex- 
 cept, like the Peruvians, by knotting cords, makes no men- 
 tion of any hieroglyphical charafters being ufed by them. If 
 fuch were adually the cafe, the remains of fymbolical writing 
 would now be moft difcoverable in the radical, or elementary 
 charaders, of which we (hall prefently have occafion to fpeak, 
 and efpecially In thofe which were employed to exprefs fomc 
 of the moft remarkable objects in nature. Out of the two hun- 
 dred and twelve, or thereabout, which conftltute the number 
 of the radical figns, the following are a few of the moft fimple, 
 in none of which, in my opinion, does there appear to be the 
 leaft refemblance between the piilure and the obje<St. 
 
 g">*
 
 24^ 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 man 
 
 JPJ koo^ a mouth 
 
 *fl tee^ earth 
 ^ //, a fon 
 ihm tfau^ a plant 
 
 |Tl fian^ a mountain 
 
 tic* •^'^» ^ heart 
 . ;^b yZ^oo, a hand 
 
 ,^jj-» fang^ fpace, or a fquare of 
 -^J ground 
 
 y\ yue^ the moon 
 tn 7^^> the fun 
 
 7«oo, a tree 
 
 rwee^ water 
 
 ^T^ /^o, fire 
 
 ^*K yZ*^^, a ftone. 
 
 The reft of the elementary charadters are, if poflible, ftlll more 
 unlike the objeds they reprefent. There feems, therefore, to 
 be no grounds for concluding that the Chinefe ever made ufe of 
 hieroglyphics or, more properly fpeaking, that their prefent 
 chara£ter fprung out of hieroglyphics. They have a tradition, 
 "which is univerfally believed, that their prince Fo-Jloee was the 
 inventor of the fyftem upon which their written character is 
 formed, and which, without any material alteration, there is 
 every reafon to fuppofe has continued in ufe to this day. To 
 Fo-fiee^ however, they afcribe the invention of almoft every 
 thing they know, which has led Mr. Baillie ingenioufly to con- 
 jedure that Fo-JJjee muft have been fome foreigner who firft 
 I civilized
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 249 
 
 civilized China ; as arts and fciences do not Ipring up and bear 
 fruit in the lile of one man. Many changes in the form of cha- 
 ra£ters may have taken place from time to time, but the princi- 
 ple on which they are conftrufted feems to have maintained its 
 ground. The redundancies of particular charaflers have been 
 removed for the fake of convenience ; and the learned in their 
 epiftolary writing have adopted a fort of running hand, in 
 which the form is fo very materially altered, by rounding oft 
 the angles, connedting fome parts and wholly omitting others, 
 as to make it appear to a fuperficial obferver a totally different 
 language. But I may venture to obferve, that it has not only 
 not undergone any material alteration for more than two thou- 
 fand years, but that it has never borrowed a chara&er, or a fyl- 
 lable, from any other language that now exifts. As a proof of 
 this, it may be mentioned, that every new article that has found 
 its way into China fince its difcovery to Europeans has acquired a 
 Chinefe name, and entirely funk that which it bore by the nation 
 who introduced it. The proper names even of countries, na- 
 tions, and individuals are changed, and affume new ones in 
 their language. Thus Europe is called See-yaiig^ the weftern 
 country; ]3i-^a.n Tung-y a ng, the eaflern country; ln<X\.3, Siau- 
 fee-yang^ the little weftern country. The Englifh are dignified 
 by the name of Hung-mou, or Red-heads^ and the French, Spa- 
 nifli, Portuguefe, an^ others, who vifit China, have each a 
 name in the language of the country totally diftindt from that 
 they bear in Europe. This inflexibility in retaining the words 
 of their own poor language has frequently made me think, 
 that Dodor Johnfon had the Chinefe in his mind when, in 
 that inimitable piece of fine writing which prefaces his didion- 
 
 K K arv.
 
 a^o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ary, he made this remark : " The language moft likely to con- 
 " tinue long without alteration, would be that of a nation 
 " railed a little, and but a little, above barbarity, fecluded 
 " from ftrangers, and totally employed in procuring the con- 
 " veniencies of life," 
 
 The invention of the Chinefe charader, although an effort 
 of genius, required far lefs powers of the mind than the difco- 
 very of an alphabet ; a difcovery fo fublime that, according to 
 the opinion of fome, nothing lefs than a divine origin ought to 
 be afcribed to it. It may, however, be confidered as the 
 neareft approximation to an univerfal charader that has hither- 
 to been attempted by the learned and ingenious of any nation ; 
 each charader conveying at once to the eye, not only fimple, 
 but the moft combined ideas. The plan of our countryman, 
 Bifhop Wilkins, for eftablifhing an univerfal charader is, in all 
 refpedls, fo fimilar to that upon which the Chinefe language is 
 conftruded, that a reference to the former will be found to con- 
 vey a very competent idea of the nature of the latter. The 
 univerfal charaQer of our countryman is, however, more fyfte- 
 matic, and more philofophical, than the plan of the Chinefe 
 chara£ler. 
 
 Certain figns expreffmg fimple obje£ts or Ideas may be con- 
 fidered as the roots or primitives of this language. Thefe are 
 few in number, not exceeding two hundred and twelve, one 
 of which, or its abbreviation, will be found to compofe a part 
 of every charader in the language ; and may, therefore, be con- 
 fidered as the key to the charader into which it enters. The 
 
 eye
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 251 
 
 eye foon becomes accuftomed to fix upon the particular key, 
 or root, of the moft complicated charadlers, in fome of which 
 are not fewer than fixty or feventy dlftin£L lines and points. 
 The right line, the curved line, and a point are the rudiments 
 of all the charafters. Thefe, varloufly combined with one an- 
 other, have been extended from time to time, as occafion might 
 require, to nearly eighty thoufand different charadlers. 
 
 To explain the manner in which their dictionaries are ar- 
 ranged will ferve to convey a correal notion of the nature of this 
 extraordinary language. All the two hundred and twelve roots 
 or keys are drawn fair and diftindl on the head of the page, 
 beginning with the moft fimple, or that which contains the 
 feweft number of lines or points, and proceeding to the moft 
 complicated ; and on the margins of the page are marked the 
 numeral charadlers one, two, three, &c. which fignify, that 
 the root or key at the top v^Ill be found to be combined on that 
 page with one, two, three, &c. lines or points. Suppofe, for 
 example, a learner fhould meet with an unknown chara(fter, in 
 which he perceives that the fimple fign expreffing -water is the 
 key or rcot^ and that it contains, befides this root, fix addi- 
 tional points and lines. He immediately turns over his di(5lion- 
 ary to the place where the charader water ftands on the top 
 of the page, and proceeding with his eye diredled to the mar- 
 gin, until the numeral charadler Jix occurs, he will foon per- 
 ceive the one in queftion ; for all the charadlers in the lan- 
 guage, belonging to the root ivater, and compofed of^^r other 
 lines and points, will follow fuccefTively in this place. The 
 name or found of the charader is placed immediately after it, 
 
 K K 2 exprefled
 
 252 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 exprefled in fuch others as are fuppofed to be moft familiar ; 
 and, in the method made ufe of for conveying this information, 
 tlie Chincfe have dlfcovered fome faint and very imperfect idea 
 of alphabetic writing, by fplitting the monofyllabic found into 
 a didyllable, and again comprefTing the diflyllable into a fimple 
 found. One inftance v^'ill ferve to explain this method. Sup- 
 pofe the name of the charader under confideration to be ping. 
 If no fmgle character be thought fufficiently fimple to exprefs 
 the found ping, immediately after it will be placed two well- 
 known charadlers pe and ing; but, as every character in the lan- 
 guage has a monofyllabic found, it will readily be concluded, 
 ihdXpe and ing, when comprefled into one fy liable, muil be pro- 
 nounced /i/;/^. After thefe, the meaning or explanation fol- 
 lows, in the cleared and mofl eafy charaders that can be em- 
 ployed. 
 
 When, Indeed, a confiderable progrefs has been made In the 
 language, the general meaning of many of the charadlers may 
 be pretty nearly guefled at by the eye alone, as they will moftly 
 be found to have fome reference, either immediate or remote, 
 though very often in a figurative fenfe, to the fignification of 
 the key or root ; in the fame manner as in the claffification ot 
 objeds in natural hiftory, every fpecies may be referred to Its 
 proper genus. The figna, for inftance, exprefling the hand 
 and the ^ear/, are two roots, and all the works of art, the dif- 
 ferent trades and manufactures, arrange themfelves under the 
 firft, and all the paffions, affedions, and fentiments of the 
 mind under the latter. The root of an unit or one comprehends 
 all the charaders expreffive of unity, concord, harmony, and the 
 
 I like.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 253 
 
 like. Thus, if I obferve a character compounded of the two 
 fimple roots, one and heart, I have no difficulty in concluding 
 that its fignilication is unanimity, but, if the fign of a negative 
 fliould alfo appear in the fame charadter, the meaning will be 
 reverfed to difcord or dijjention, literally not one heart. Many 
 proper names of perfons have the character lignifying man for 
 their key or root, and all foreign names have the character 
 mouth or voice annexed, which fhews at once that the charader 
 is a proper name employed only to exprefs found without any 
 particular meaning. 
 
 Nor are thefe keys or roots, although fometlmes placed on 
 the right of the charader, fometimes on the left, now at the 
 top, and then at the bottom, fo very difficult to be difcovered 
 to a perfon who knows but a little of the language, as Dodor 
 Hager has imagined. This is by far the eafieft part of the lan- 
 guage. The abbreviations in the compound charadlers, and 
 the figurative fenfe in which they are fometimes ufed, conftitute 
 the difficulty, by the obfcurity in which they ai'e involved, and 
 the ambiguity to which they are liable. 
 
 The Dodor is equally unfortunate in the difcovery which he 
 thinks he has made of a want of order in claffing the elements 
 according to the number of lines they contain. The inftances 
 he gives of fuch anomaly are in the two charaders of 
 
 •jm^tnoo, mother; and ^Rtien, cultivated ground : the firft 
 
 of which he is furprifed to find among the elementary charac- 
 ters of four lines, and the latter (which he aflerts to be flill 
 more fimple) among thofe oijive. The Chinefe, however, are 
 
 not
 
 234 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 not quite Co much out of order as theDodor feems to be out of 
 his province in attempting a critique on a language, of which he 
 really pofTefTes a very fuperficial knowledge. The firft charadlar 
 
 -^J^ mco is compofed of Z^^ / **" *» /andthe fecond 
 
 ffl tlcu of f "^ W— r J ^ i i^ii . the one of four, and the other 
 
 of five lines, according to the arrangement of Chincfe dictiona- 
 ries, and tlieir elementary treatifes. 
 
 Among the roots or primitives that moft frequently occur 
 are thofe expreffing the hand^ heart, mouth, and the five ele- 
 ments, earthy air^Jii-e, wood, and zoater. Man is alfo a very 
 common root. 
 
 The compofition of chara£lers is capable of exercifing a very 
 confiderable degree of ingenuity, and the analyfis of them is 
 extremely entertaining to a foreigner. As in a propofition of 
 Euclid it is neceilliry to go through the whole demonftration 
 before the figure to which it refers can be properly underftood, 
 fo, in the Chinefe charader, the fenfe of the feveral component 
 parts muft firft be known in order to comprehend the meaning 
 of the compound. To endeavour to recolledt them without 
 this knowledge would be a laborious and almoft impoffible 
 effort of the mind. Indeed, after this knowledge Is acquired, 
 the fenfe is fometimes fo hid in metaphor, and in allufions to 
 particular cuftoms or ways of thinking, that when all the com- 
 ponent parts of a charader are well underftood, the meaning 
 may yet remain in obfcurity. It may not be difficult to con- 
 ceive, for inftance, that in a figurative language, the union of 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 25^ 
 
 the fun and moon might be employed to exprefs any extraor- 
 dinary degree of I'ght or brilliancy ; but it would not fo readily 
 occur, that the character Jbo or happincfs^ or fupreme felicity^ 
 £hould be defigtied by the union of the charadters exprefling a 
 fpirit or demon, the number otic or iinily, a mouthy and a piece 
 
 oi cultivated ground^ thus ifi!^ . Thischarafter in the Chinefe 
 
 language is meant to convey the fame idea as tlie word co;;?/or/ does 
 in our own. The character implying the middle of any thing, an- 
 nexed to that of heart, was not inaptly employed to exprefs a very 
 dear friend, nor that with the heart furmounted by a negativCy 
 to imply indiffere?ice, no heart ; but it is not fo eafy to affign 
 any reafon why the charatfler ping, fignifying rank or order, 
 fhould be exprefled by the charader mouth, repeated thrice, and 
 
 placed like the three balls of a pawnbroker, thus JJ?^ , or why 
 
 fourof thefe mouths arrangedas under, with the character /cZj^rf^/, 
 in the center, fliould imply an inftrument, or piece of mechanifm. 
 
 'gr«a_ . Nor would it readily occur why the charader ^JT" nan^ 
 
 mafcuUne, fhould be made up of tien, a field, and lee, flrength, 
 unlefs from the idea that the male fex "^o^ci^esflrength, and 
 only can inherit land. But that a fmoothnefs or "volubility of 
 
 ft""'' J^lhould be dcfigned by ^»». mouth, and kin^^M, w. 
 
 can more eafily conceive, as we apply the epithet fdvertongue 
 pretty nearly on the fame occafion. 
 
 If the Chinefe had rigidly adhered to the ingenious and phi- 
 lofophical mechanifm they originally employed in the conftruc- 
 
 tion
 
 2^6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 tlon of their cliaraders, it would be the moft Intereftlng of all 
 languages. But fuch is far from being the cafe. New charac- 
 ters are daily conftrudted, in which convenience, rather than per- 
 Ipicuity, has been confulted. 
 
 It will follow from what has been faid, that every com- 
 pounded charadter is not only a word, but alfo a definition, 
 comprehending in vifible marks its full explanation ; but no 
 charadler, however compounded, can have more than a mo- 
 nofyllabic found, though each part when alone has a diftin(n: 
 found, as well as fenfe. Thus, " Happinefs," though com- 
 pounded of four diftindt characters, j/^<?^, a demon; ye, one ; 
 koo, a mouth, and tien, a piece of cultivated ground, has only 
 the fimple monofyllabic foundyoo, which is unlike that of any 
 one of its compounds. 
 
 The founds and various inflexions incidental to languages 
 in general, are not neceffary to be attended to in the ftudy of 
 the Ghinefe charaders. They fpeak equally ftrong to a perfcn 
 who is deaf and dumb, as the moft copious language could do 
 to one in the full enjoyment of all his fenfes. It is a language 
 addrefled entirely to the eye, and not to the ear. Juft as a 
 piece of mufic laid before feveral perfons of different nations of 
 Europe would be played by each in the fame key, the fame 
 meafure, and the fame air, fo would the Ghinefe charadters 
 be equally underftood by the natives of Japan, Tunquin, and 
 Cochin-Ghina ; yet each would give them different names or 
 founds, that would be wholly unintelligible to one another. 
 When, on the prefent voyage, we flopped at Pulo Condore, 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 257 
 
 the inhabitants, being Cochin-Chinefe, had no difficulty in cor- 
 refponding, by writing, with our Chinefe interpreters, though 
 they could not interchange one intelligible word. 
 
 Although, with the afliflance of a good di<n:ionary and a to- 
 lerable memory, a knowledge of inch of the Chinefe charadiers, 
 as moft frequently occur, may be obtained by a foreigner ; yet 
 the ambiguity to which they are liable, on account of the fre- 
 quent figurative expreffions and fubflitution of metaphor for 
 the literal meaning, renders their befl compofitions extremely 
 obfcure. Another, and not the leaft, difficulfy to a learner of 
 this language arifes from the abridgment of the charatSters for 
 the fake of convenience, by which the eye is deprived of the 
 chain that originally conneded the component parts. In fhort, 
 it is a language where much is to be made out that is not ex- 
 prefied, and particularly fo in what is called fine writing ; and 
 a thorough knowledge of it can only be acquired from a familiar 
 acquaintance with the manners, cufloms, habits, and opinions 
 of the people. Thofe mifTionaries even, who have refided in 
 the country the befl part of their lives, and accepted employ- 
 ments about the palace, are frequently at a lofs in tranflating 
 and compofing the official papers that are necefTary to be made 
 out on the occafion of an European embafTy. 
 
 It is, however, a matter of furprize that, after all that has 
 been publifhed in Europe by the Jefuits of the grandeur, the 
 magnificence, the learning, and the philofophy of the Chinefe, 
 fo very few perfons fhould have taken the trouble to make 
 themfelves acquainted with the language of this extraordinary 
 nation. So little was a profejfor of Chinefe, at Rome, verfed
 
 258 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 in the language he profefled to know, that he is fliid* to have 
 miftaken feme charaders found on a b jfh of liis for Chlnefe^ 
 which buft and the charaders were afterwards proved to be the 
 work of a modern artift of Turin, made after his own fancy. In 
 Great Britain we have known flill lefs of the Chinefe lanc-uase 
 and Chinefe literature than on the continent. It is not many- 
 years ago, that one of the fmall copper coins of China, ftamped 
 in the reign, and with the name, cf the late Tchien-liii/g (or as 
 he is ufually called in the fouthern dialed of China Kien-lotig^ 
 was picked up in a bog in Ireland, and being confidered as a 
 great curiofity, was carried to an indefatigable antiquary, whofe 
 refearches have been of confiderable ufe in inveftigating the an- 
 cient hiftory and language of that ifland. Not knowing the 
 Chinefe charader, nor their coin, it was natural enough for 
 him to compare them with fome language with which he was 
 acquainted ; and the conclufion he drew was, that the four fol- 
 lowing charaders on the face were ancient Syriac ; and that 
 the reverfe (which are Man-tchoo letters) appeared to be aftro- 
 nomical, or talifmanic charaders, of which he could give no 
 explanation. 
 
 Face. 
 
 Tchicn-lung. 
 PaO'tung. 
 
 (Emperor's name.) 
 Current value. 
 
 Reverfe. 
 
 po tchin. 
 
 Houfe, or dynafty, of Tcbin. 
 
 By Mr. Pauw. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^59 
 
 The Man-tchoo Tartar charaders of another coin he fuppofed 
 to fignify pur^ which is conftrued into yorx, or lot; and it 
 is concluded, that thefe coins muft either have been imported 
 into Ireland by the Phoenicians, or manufa£tured in the coun- 
 try ; in which cafe, the Irifh muft have had an oriental alpha- 
 bet. " In either cafe," it is obferved, " thefe medals contri- 
 " bute more to authenticate the ancient hiftory of Ireland than 
 " all the volumes that have been written on the fubje<S." 
 
 I have noticed this clrcumftance, which is taken from the 
 CoIkButica Hibeniica, in order to fhew how little is known of 
 the Chinefe charaiStcr and language among the learned, whea 
 fo good a fcholar and eminent antiquary committed fo great a 
 ruiftake. 
 
 The youth of China generally begin to ftudy the language 
 when they are about fix years of age. Their firft employment 
 is to learn by name a certain number of eafy charadlers, with- 
 out any regard to the fignification, or without underftanding 
 the meaning of one of them, confequently, without adding to 
 the mind one fmgle idea, for five or fix years, except that of 
 labour and difficulty. For the natiie of a character, it may be 
 recollefted, has no reference whatfoever to its meaning. Thus 
 fifty-one different charaders, of as many diftin£t fignifications, 
 have the fame name of chhig ; and if ten or a dozen charac- 
 ters, bearing the found oi ching^ fhould occur in the fame page, 
 the learner, in this ftage of his education, is not inftruded in the 
 feveral meanings ; his obje£t is to acquire the found, but to ne- 
 glect the fenfe. I have been told, that a regular-bred fcholajf 
 
 L L 2 is
 
 2^o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 is required to get by heart a very large volume of the works 
 of Confucius fo perfectly, that he may be able to turn to any 
 palTage or fentence from hearing the found of the charaders 
 only, without his having one fingle idea of their fignification. 
 The next ftep is to form the charafters, commencing by ♦'ra- 
 cing, or going over, a certain number that are faintly drawn in 
 red ink. As fooa as they are able to cover thefe with tolerable 
 accuracy, without deviating from the lines of the original, 
 they then endeavour to imitate them on frefh paper. Thefe 
 operations employ at leaft four years more of their life. Thus, 
 a young man of fourteen or fixteen years of age, although he 
 may be able to wrire a great number of charadlers, for each of 
 which he can alfo give a name, yet, at the fame time, he can 
 affix no diftind: idea to any one of them. The contrary me- 
 thod would appear advifable of teaching them firft the fignifica- 
 tion of the fimple roots, and the analyfis of the compound 
 characters, and afterwards the founds, vr, perhaps, to let the 
 one accompany the other. 
 
 Objeftions of a fimilar nature to thofe now mentioned 
 againft the mode of Chinefe education, have, it is true, been 
 frequently ftated with regard to the plan of educating youths 
 in the public grammar fchools of our own country ; that fome 
 of the moft precious years of their lives, when the faculties 
 were in growing vigour, and the plaftic mind moft fufceptible 
 of receiving and retaining impreffions, are wafted in poring 
 over the metaphyfics of a Latin Grammar, which they cannot 
 poffibly comprehend ; and in learning by heart a number of 
 declinations, conjugations, and fyntax rules, which ferve only 
 
 3 t<>
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 261 
 
 to puzzle and difguft, inftead of affording inftru£tion or amufe- 
 ment : that the grammar, or philoiophical part of a language, is 
 ufeful only for the niceties and perfedlion of that language, and 
 not a fahje<fl for boys. In all inftances, perhaps, where the 
 language to be learned is made the common colloquial language 
 of the pupil, the objedlions ftated againfl the ufe of the gram- 
 mar may have fome weight. But as this is not the cafe with 
 regard to the Greek and Latin languages in Europe, nor to 
 the written characSter in China, which differs widely from the 
 colloquial, long experience may, perhaps, in both cafes, have 
 led to the adoption of the mod eligible method *. 
 
 But a youth of Europe has a very material advantage over 
 one of China during the time in which he is faid to be por- 
 ing over his Latin Grammar. He is in the daily habit of ac- 
 quiring new ideas, from his knowledge of other languages. 
 His mother-tongue fupplies him with books, which he is able 
 to comprehend, and from which he derives both entertainment 
 and inftrudion. Without enumerating the great variety of thefe 
 that daily engage his attention, I deem it fufficient to obferve, 
 
 * That the Chinefe method, however, is defeiSive, may be inferred from the circiim- 
 ft.mce of the prefent Sir George Scuunton having not only acquired, in little more 
 than twelve months, and at the age of twelve years, fuch a number of words and 
 phrafeology as to make himfelf uaderftood, and to underftand others on common 
 topics of converfation, but he alfo learned to write the charaifters witii fuch facility 
 and accuracy, that all the diplomatic papers of the Embafly addreffed to the Chinefe 
 government were copied by him (the Chinefe themfelves being afraid to let papers 
 of fo unufual a ftyle appear in their own hand-wriiing) in fo neat and expeditious 
 a manner as to occafion great aftonifhment. It may be obferved, however, that 
 few youths of his age poffefs the talents, the attention, and the general information 
 with which he was endowed. 
 
 that
 
 062 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 that his Roblnfon Crufoe (the befl: book, with few exceptions, 
 that can be put into a boy's hand) fhews the numbcrlefs diffi- 
 cuUies to which he is Hable in the world, when the anxious 
 cares of his parents have ccafed to watch over him ; it is there 
 pointed out to him that, arduous as many undertakings may 
 appear to be, few are infurmountable ; that the body and the 
 mind of man are furniflied with refources which, by patience, 
 diligence, prudence, and reflexion, will enable him to over- 
 come the greatefl: difficulties, and efcape the moft imminent 
 dangers. His Tom Jones, however exceptionable in tliofe 
 parts where human failings are reprefented under an amiable 
 and alluring drefs, leaves, upon the whole, a lively impreilion 
 in favour of generofity and virtue, and feldom fails to excite 
 an indignant glow againft perfidy, felfifhnefs, and brutality. 
 The young Chinefe has no fuch relief from his dry ftudy of ac- 
 quiring the names and reprefentations of things that to 
 him have as yet no meaning. He knows not a word of any lan- 
 guage but his own. 
 
 The lafh ftep in the education of a Chinefe is to analyfe the 
 
 characters, by the help oi the dictionary, in the manner already 
 
 mentioned, fo that he now firft begins to comprehend the ufe 
 
 of the written character. Extracts from the works of their 
 
 famous philofopher Cotig-foo-tfe (the Confucius of the miffion- 
 
 aries) are generally put into his hands ; beginning with thofe 
 
 that treat on moral fubjeCls, in which are fet forth, in fhort 
 
 fentences, the praifes of virtue, and the odioufnefs of vice, with 
 
 rules of conduct to be obferved in the world. Th.Q eternal mean^ 
 
 in the ftyle and manner of the maxims of Seneca, next follows; 
 
 and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. , i6j 
 
 and the art of governmenr, with an abridgment of the laws, 
 completes him for takmg his firfl degree, which generally hap- 
 pens when he has attained his twentieth year; but in order to 
 be qualified for any high employment, he miift ftudy at lead 
 ten years longer. 
 
 From this view of the written charadler, and the mode of 
 education, it will readily occur, that little progrefs is likely to 
 be made in any of the fpecnlative fciences ; and more efpecially 
 as their affiftance is not neceflary to obtain the moft elevated 
 fituations in the government. The examinations to be pafled 
 for the attainment of office are principally confined to the 
 knowledge of the language ; and as far as this goes, they are 
 rigid to the utmofl degree. The candidates are put into fepa- 
 rate apartments, having previoufly been fearched, in order to 
 afcertain that they have no writing of any kind about them. 
 They are allowed nothing but pencils, ink, and paper, and with- 
 in a given time they are each to produce a theme on the fub- 
 je6t that fhall be propofed to them. The excellence of the 
 compofition, which is fubmitted to the examining officers, or 
 men of letters, depends chiefly on the following points. 
 
 That every charadter be neatly and accurately made. 
 
 That each charader be well chofen, and not in vulgar ufc. 
 
 That the fame charader do not occur twice in the fame 
 compofition. 
 
 The
 
 f 
 
 264 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The fubjedl and the manner of treating It are of the leaft 
 confideration, but thofe on morality, or hiftory, are generally 
 preferred. If the following ftory, as communicated by one of 
 the mifTionaries, and related, I believe, by the Abbe Grozier, 
 be true, there requires no further illuftration of the ftate of li- 
 terature in China. " A candidate for preferment having inad- 
 *' vertently made ufe of an abreviation in writing the charadter 
 " ma (which fignilies a horfe) had not only the mortification of 
 " feeing his compofition, very good in every other refpect, 
 " rejeded folely on that account ; but, at the fame time, was 
 " feverely rallied by the cenfor, who, among other things, 
 *' afked him how he could poffibly expedl his horfe to walk 
 " without having all his legs !" 
 
 The conflrudion of the colloquial, or fpoken language, is 
 extremely fimple. It admits of no inflexion of termination, 
 either in the verb, or in the noun, each word being the fame 
 invariable monofyllable in number, in gender, in cafe, mood, 
 and teiife ; and, as moft of thefe monofyllables begin with a 
 confonant and end with a vowel, except a few that terminate 
 in /, H, or ng, the number of fuch founds, or fimple fyllables, 
 is very limited. To an European they do not exceed three 
 hundred and fifty. But a Chinefe, by early habit, has acquired 
 greater power over the organs of fpeech, and can fo modulate 
 his voice as to give to the fame monofyllable five or fix diftind 
 tones of found ; fo that he can utter at leaft twelve or thirteen 
 hundred radical words, which, with the compounds, are found 
 to be fully fufficient for expreffing all his wants. 
 
 On
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 265 
 
 On this curious fubjea: I am enabled to fpeak with great 
 accuracy, through the klndnefs of Sir George Staunton, to 
 whom, indeed, I am indebted for more information in this 
 work than I am allowed to acknowledge. From the beft ma- 
 nufcript Chinefe dictionary in his poffcffion, he has obligingly 
 taken the trouble to draw out the following abftradt of all the 
 fimple founds, or words, in the Chinefe language, together 
 with their inflexions or accentuations, by which they are ex- 
 tended as far as any tongue can pofTibly articulate, or the 
 niceft ear difcriminate. The firft column fhews all the initial 
 letters, or their powers in the language ; the fecond, the 
 number of terminations, or the remaining part of the mono- 
 fyllable befide the initial ; and the third, exprefies the num- 
 ber of monofyllabic founds that may be given to each by in- 
 flexion, or modulation of voice, and by making ufe of 
 afpirates. 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 <; 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 II 
 12 
 
 «3 
 '4 
 •5 
 16 
 
 '7 
 
 '7 
 
 Initials. 
 Fewer. 
 
 Ch. as in Child. 
 
 F. 
 
 G. 
 between H. & S. 
 
 Y. 
 J. as in French Jour 
 
 K. 
 
 L. 
 
 ^r. 
 
 N. 
 
 o. 
 p. 
 
 s. 
 
 T. 
 
 Ts. 
 between V and W. 
 
 Sh. 
 
 Number of ter 
 
 Number of infiex'ons 
 
 minations to 
 
 
 
 Cjch. 
 
 
 or accentuations. 
 
 20 
 
 '3' 
 
 including afpirates. 
 
 10 
 
 3° 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 I 1 
 
 32 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 36 
 
 1.4 
 
 all ftrong afpirates. 
 
 16 
 
 61 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 >4 
 
 'U 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 37 
 
 2C6 
 
 including afpirates. 
 
 25 
 
 66 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 22 
 
 5fi 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 23 
 
 56 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 21 
 
 104 
 
 including afpirates. 
 
 29 
 
 ^'6 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 >7 
 
 105 
 
 including afpirates. 
 
 28 
 
 '47 
 
 including afpirates. 
 
 '3 
 
 39 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 «9 
 
 60 
 
 no afpirates. 
 
 342 
 
 '33' 
 
 
 M M 
 
 So
 
 266 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 So that in the whole colloquial language of China, an Euro- 
 pean may jviake out 342 fimplc monofyllabic founds, which by 
 the help of afpirates, inflexions of voice, or accentuations, are 
 capable of being increafed by a Chinefe to 133 1 words. And 
 as the written language is faid to contain 80,000 characters, and 
 each character has a name, it will follow, that, on an average, 
 60 charaders, of fo many different fignifications, muft neceffarily 
 be called by the fame monofyllabic name. Hence, a compofi- 
 tion if read would be totally unintelligible to the ear, and muft 
 be feen to be underftood. The monofyllabic found affigned to 
 each character is applied to fo many different meanings, that 
 in its unconneded ftate it may be faid to have no meaning 
 at all. 
 
 Inthebufinefsof common life, the nice inflexions or modula- 
 tions, that are required to make out thefe thirteen hundred words, 
 may amply be exprefled in about fifteen thoufand characters, fo 
 that each monofyllabic found will, in this cafe, on an average, 
 admit of about twelve diflindt fignifications. This recurrence 
 of the fame words muft neceffarily caufe great ambiguity in 
 converfation, and it frequently indeed leads to ridiculous mif- 
 takes, efpecially by foreigners. Thus, a fober miffionary, in- 
 tending to pafs the night at a peafant's houfe, afked as he 
 thought for a mat^ but was very much furprifed on feeing his 
 hoft prefenting him with a young girl; thefe two objeds, fo 
 very difl'erent from one another, being fignified by two words 
 whofe pronunciations are not diftinguifhable, and confequently 
 one or the other requires to be ufed with an adjunCl. 
 
 It
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. t^j 
 
 It was a fource of daily amufement to our condudtors, to 
 hear the equivoques we made in attempting to fpeak their 
 laneuace. A Chinefe, when the fenfe is doubtful, will draw 
 the charader, or the root of it, in the air with his finger or 
 fan, by which he makes himfelf at once underftood. 
 
 But as fome of thefe monofyllabic words, as I have obferved 
 o? chi/ig, have not lefs than fifty diftinft fignifications, v;hich 
 the niceft tones and inflexions, even of a Chinefe voice, are not 
 able to difcriminate, fuch words are generally converted into 
 compounds, by adding a fecond fyllable, bearing fome relative 
 fenfe to the firft, by which the meaning is at once determined. 
 Among the fignifications, for inftance, of the monofyllable Jbo 
 is that ol father^ to which, for the fake of diftindion, as foo 
 has many fignifications befide that of father, they add the fylla- 
 ble <:Z//«, implying ZvWr^,^'; thus, a Chinefe in fpeaking of his 
 parents invariably fays foo-chin for father, and moo-chin for 
 mother ; but, in writing, the charader of chin would be confi- 
 dered as an unneceflary expletive, that o^ foo being very differ- 
 ently made from any other called by the fame name. 
 
 The grammar of this language may briefly be explained. 
 The noun, as obferved, is indeclinable ; the particles te or //V, 
 mark the genitive, and always follow the noun ; eu the dative, 
 which it precedes, and tung or tfung the ablative, before which 
 they are alfo placed. As for example, ^-^^^ 
 Nom. gat love 
 Gen. gai'^te of love. 
 Dat. eurgai to love. 
 
 M M 2 Ace.
 
 2^8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Ace. gat love. 
 
 Abl. tutig or tsung gai, from or by love. And the fame 
 in the plural. 
 
 Give me your book, 
 
 Keu go NE-TE J7}00. 
 Dear fo men, 
 ^lei EU Jin. 
 Come you ivit/j him, 
 Ne-/ai TUNG /a. 
 
 The adjedlve is alfo formed from the genitive of the noun as 
 f>ai, whitenefs ; pai-tii white ; je heat ; je-tie hot ; lee, reafon ; 
 lee-ttJy rational; hau goodnefs ; haii-tie, good. But when the 
 adje£tive precedes the noun, as it generally does, the particle tie 
 is omitted as, 
 
 baujiti, a good man. 
 pai-ma, a white horfe. 
 je-fwee, hot water. 
 
 The plural of nouns is exprefled by prefixing fome word figni- 
 fying plurality, as to-jin, many men ; to-to jiti^ a multitude of 
 men ; cbiing jin^ all men ; and fometimes by a repetition of the 
 word ^s Jin-Jin, men. 
 
 Adjedives are compared by placing the particle ieng before 
 the comparative, as 
 
 yeou, foft ; keng yeoUy fofter. 
 / Aai/, good ; ie/ig hau, better. 
 My book is newer than yours, 
 Go-teJhoQ K E K C ftn ne-te. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 269 
 
 The fuperhr've is marked by various particles, fometlmes pre- 
 ceding, and fometimes following, the adjedivc, and it is alfo 
 formed by repeating the pofuivc, as - , , 
 
 hau^ bau t'le^ very good. 
 
 •whang-iuhang'ttc ^ very yellow. 
 
 The perfona! pronouns are, 
 
 ngo (nafal) or^o, «^, /<?, go-men^ tie-men ^ta-men. 
 I, thou, he, we, ye, they. 
 
 And they become pofleffives, in the fame manner as nouns arc 
 changed into adjectives, by the addition oi te or///, as 
 
 go-te, ne-te, ta-te, go-men-te^ ne-men-te^ ta-men-te. 
 
 mine, thine, his, ours, yours, theirs. 
 
 The verb has likewife neither conjugation nor infledion ; 
 and the tenfes, or times of adion or paffion, are limited to 
 three ; the prefent, the part, and the future. The prefent is 
 fignified fimply by the verb, as go lai^ I come ; the paft, is ex- 
 prefFed by the particle /fo, as^o lai leo, 1 did come, or I have 
 come ; and the future is formed by placing the particle yati be- 
 fore the verb, as^o yau lai, I will come ; or, when fomething 
 very determined is meant to be expreffed, the compound 
 y7ien-y precedes the verb, as go yuen-y-lai I am determined to 
 come. It may be obferved, however, that although thefe, and 
 other particles fignifying the time and mode of adion, are ne- 
 cefTary in common fpeech, yet, in fine writing, they arc entire- 
 ly omitted, which is another caufe of the obfcurity and dif- 
 ficulty that occur to ftrangers in the ftudy of the Chinefe 
 charader. 
 
 3 The
 
 270 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The two negatives mo and poo, are of great ufe In the fpoken 
 language. The firft is generally ufed with the verb jc/t to 
 liave, and always implies a want or deficiency, as, mo yeu nai^ 
 there is no milk ; mo yen tcha, you can have no tea, I have no 
 tea, there is no tea, &c. Poo is generally ufed to exprefs qua- 
 lities of an oppofite nature, as, ban, good ; poo hcui, bad ; je, 
 hot ; poo je, cold ; ta, great ; poo ta, little. The ufual faluta- 
 tion between friends is hnu-poo-hau, well, or not well ? 
 
 The limits I have prefcribed for the prefent work will not allow 
 me to enter into a more detailed account of this fingular lan- 
 guage. What has been faid may ferve to convey a general idea 
 of the written charader, and the fimple conftrudtion of the 
 fpoken language. I fhall now endeavour, in a few words, to 
 explain the nature and conftrudion of the Man-tchoo Tartar 
 charader, which, if the prefent family continue on the throne 
 for a century longer, will, in all probability, fupplant the 
 Chinefe, or will at leaft become the court language. In the 
 enunciation it is full, fonorous, and far from being difagreeable, 
 more like the Greek than any of the oriental languages ; and 
 it abounds with all thofe letters which the Chinefe have rejeded, 
 particularly with the letters B and R. It is alphabetic, or, more 
 properly fpeaking, fyllabic, and the different parts of fpeech 
 are fufceptible of expreffing number, cafe, gender, time, modes 
 of adlon, paffion, and other accidents, fimilar to thofe of Euro- 
 pean languages. This is effeded either by change of termina- 
 tion, prepofition, or interpofition. The charader is extremely 
 beautiful, and it is written, like the Chinefe, in perpendicular 
 
 columns,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 271 
 
 columns, but beginning on the left fide of the paper Inftead of 
 the right, as is the cafe in writing the fornier language. 
 
 The elements of the language are comprized in twelve clafles 
 of fimple founds or monofyllables, from the different combina- 
 tions of which all the words of the Mantchoo language are 
 formed. 
 
 Thefe claffes are diflinguifhed by the terminations. 
 
 The firft clafs ends in, a, e, 1, o, u, pronounced exa£lly 
 
 as the Italian. 
 The fecond, in ai, el, iei, oi, ui. 
 The third, in ar, er, ir, or, ur, air, &c. 
 The fourth, in an, en, in, &c. 
 The fifth, in ang, eng, ing, &c. 
 The fixth, in ak, ek, ik, &c. 
 The feventh, in as, es, is, &c. 
 The eighth, in at, et, it, &c. 
 The ninth, in ap, ep, ip, &c. 
 The tenth, in au, eu, iu, ou. 
 The elventh, in al, el, il, &c. 
 The twelfth, in am, em^ im, &c. 
 
 The initials are, A. E. F. H. I. K. L. M. N. O. P. R. 
 S. T. U. Y. 
 
 To give fome idea of the charadter, I fubjoin the written 
 elements. 
 
 I ft.
 
 172 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA 
 
 1 ft Clafs. a 
 
 \ 
 
 • 
 
 e 1 
 
 J i 
 
 ad Clafs. ai 
 
 ei iei 
 
 j 
 
 3d Clafs. 
 
 ar er ir 
 
 i 
 
 in 
 > 
 
 % 
 
 ing 
 
 4th Clafs. an en 
 
 i i 
 
 5th Clafs. ang eng 
 
 J 
 
 6th Clafs. ak ek 
 
 i i 
 
 7th Clafs. as es 
 
 Sth Clafs. at et 
 
 ik 
 
 ■i 
 
 u 
 
 6 &. 
 
 Ol Ul 
 
 i- 
 
 or 
 ) 
 
 ur 
 
 on un 
 
 i 4 
 
 ong 
 
 ung 
 
 ok 
 
 uk 
 
 % 4 
 
 IS OS us 
 
 i. 
 
 ^ 
 
 It Ot Ut 
 
 i i i i 
 
 4 
 
 9th
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 
 9th Clafs. ap 
 
 loth Clafs. au 
 
 1 1 th Clafs. al 
 
 i 
 
 1 2 th Clafs. am 
 
 ep 
 
 i 
 
 eu 
 
 i. 
 
 em 
 
 iP 
 
 lU 
 
 ii 
 
 L 
 
 im 
 
 4-^4: 
 
 op 
 
 ou 
 
 ol 
 
 om 
 
 4. 
 
 up 
 
 i i^ 
 
 uu 
 
 ul 
 
 i- i- 
 
 um 
 
 The Initial characters are reprefented by refpe£tive marks, 
 which being joined to thefe elementary terminations, generally 
 at the upper extremity, give all the monofyllabic founds, and 
 the junclion of thefe according to their various combinations 
 all the w^ords in the IVIantchoo language. One example will 
 be fufficient to fhew the nature of fuch compofition ; thus the 
 initials P. T. L. S. F. fet before the 1 2th clafs of radicals, will 
 ftand as follows : 
 
 Pam 
 
 Tem 
 
 Llm 
 
 Som 
 
 Fum 
 
 ^) ^J ^ ^ 
 
 K N 
 
 And
 
 274 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 And if each of thefe fyllables be refpeaively added to the jlh 
 clafs, they will ftand thus : 
 
 Pamang Temcng Liming Somong Fumung 
 
 4 ^ ? %^ % 
 
 r S 6 3 & 
 
 Of the flate of their literature, and progrefs in fcience, I 
 have little to obferve. The nature of the language will almoft 
 itfelf determine thefe 'points. With refped: to any branch of 
 polite literature, or fpeculative fcience, little improvement 
 feems to have been made in the laft two thoufand years. In- 
 deed, there are no works in the whole empire, modern or an- 
 cient, that are fo much efteemed, fo much ftudied, and I may 
 perhaps add, fo little comprehended, as the five claflical books 
 colledled and commented upon by their great philofopher 
 Cong-foo-tfe, who lived about 450 years before the Chriftian 
 asra ; and thefe certainly are very extraordinary produdions 
 for the time in which they were written. Thefe works and a 
 few writings of their favourite mafter, according to the annals 
 of the country, efcaped the general deftruction of books, when 
 the barbarous She-wharig-te ordered all the monuments of 
 learning to be burnt, except fuch as treated of medicine and 
 agriculture, about 200 years before Chrift, for the abfurd pur- 
 pofe, as they ftate, that he might be confidered by pofterity as 
 the firft civilized Emperor which had governed China, and 
 that the records of its hiftory might, by this mean artifice, ap- 
 pear to commence with his reign. 
 
 Admitting
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 2fs 
 
 Admitting fuch an event to have happened which, however, 
 may be confidered as doubtful, the fuppofition involves in it 
 this neceflary coiifequence, that the ftock of learning at that 
 time mufl; have been very confined. It is fcarcely poffible, 
 otherwife, how one perfon, near the end of his reign, could 
 have contrived to afl'emble together all the works of art and 
 literature, difperfed through fo large a tra£t of country and fo 
 enlightened as it was then fuppofed to be. There were, befides, 
 other independent fovereigns in the country, over whom he 
 had little or no controul, fo that it is very probable the com- 
 monwealth of letters fuffered no great lofs by the burning of the 
 Chinefe books. When the Caliph Omar commanded the Alex- 
 andrian library to be deftroyed, which the pride and the learn- 
 ing of the Ptolemy family had collefted from every part of the 
 world, literature fuftained an irreparable lofs; but, although the 
 tyrant had the power to confign to eternal oblivion the works 
 of fclence, yet he had no power over the principles upon which 
 thefe works were conftrudled. Thefe principles had fpread 
 themfelves wide over the world. The expedition of Alexan- 
 der carried the learning of the Egyptians and the Greeks into 
 various countries of Afia, where they continued to flourifh. 
 And when the tyranny and oppreffion of the feventh Ptolemy 
 (Phyfcon) forced the Alexandrians to abandon a city that was 
 perpetually dreaming with the blood of its citizens, they found 
 an afylum in the Grecian flates and in different parts of Afia. 
 And as this fanguinary tyrant, in the midft of his cruel- 
 ties, pretended and indeed fhewed a fondnefs for literature, the 
 arts and the fciences flourifhed even in his reign : the migra- 
 tions, therefore, at this time, from the capital of Egypt, were 
 
 N N 2 of
 
 276 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of the grcateil Importance and ufe to thofe nations among whom 
 the refugees fettled. Unluckily for China, the wild moun- 
 tainous forefts towards the fouth, and the wide fandy deferts 
 to the north, that render any communication extremely diffi- 
 cult between this empire and the reft of Afia, together with 
 their diflike for foreigners, feem, at this time, to have checked 
 the progrefs of thofe arts and fciences which had long flourifhed 
 In Europe and In Africa. Their hiftory, at leaft, is filent as to 
 any communication with India, till a century nearly after the 
 commencement of the Chriftian asra, when the religion of Bu- 
 dha found its way from Thibet. Into China. 
 
 Whether the burning of the works of the learned In China 
 did or did not happen, appears, as already obferved, to admit of 
 fome doubt ; but the antiquity, and the authenticity, of the five 
 king^ or claffics, feem to be fufficiently eftablifhed. And con- 
 fidering the early periods in which they were written, they cer- 
 tainly demonftraie a very fuperlor degree of civilization. It has 
 been obferved that. In this country, the arts, the fciences, and 
 literature, are not progreffive ; and the five king would lead 
 one to conclude, that they have rather even been retrograde than 
 ftationary. The names of thefe works are : 
 
 1. Shoo-king. A colledllon of records and annals of various 
 
 princes, commencing more than 2000 years before Chrift. 
 
 2. Shee-king. Odes, fonnets, and maxims; moft of them fo 
 
 abundant in metaphor, and fo obfcure, that much of 
 the fenfe is to be made out by the tranflator.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 277 
 
 3. Te-king. The perfed and the broken lines of Fofiee", 
 
 the moft ancient reli£t in China, and perhaps the firft 
 attempt at written language : now perfedly incompre- 
 henfible. 
 
 4. Cbung-choo. Spring and autumn. The hiftory of fome of 
 
 the kings oi Loo: the work principally of Co?ig-foo-tfc. 
 
 5. Lee-kee. Ceremonies and moral duties. A compilation of 
 
 Cong-foo-tfe. 
 
 The lines of Fo-JIkc puzzled even the great philofopher of 
 the country, who declared himfelf dilTatisfied with all the ex- 
 planations of the commentators. The learned and ingenious 
 Leibnitz fancied he difcovered in them a fyftem of binary 
 arithmetic, by which all the operations and refults of numbers 
 might be performed, with the help of two figures only, the 
 cypher or zero o, and an unit i, the former being confidered as 
 the canftant multiple of the latter, as 10 is of the unit. Thus 
 I would ftand for 1,10 for two, 1 1 for three, 100 for four, and 
 fo on. It is unneceflary to obferve, with how many incon- 
 veniencies fuch a fyftem would be attended when reduced to 
 practice. This difcovery of the binary feries, which the ma- 
 thematician, in all probability, confidered only as a philofo- 
 phical plaything, was communicated to Father Bouvet the 
 Jefuit who, happening at that time to be engaged in decy- 
 phering the lines aiFo-Jheey caught the idea and in an extacy 
 of joy proclaimed to the world that Leibnitz had folved the 
 Fo-fheean riddle. 
 
 The
 
 278 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The mlflionarles of the Romifh church are fo accuftomed to 
 the myfteries with which their religion abounds, that every 
 thing they meet with, and do not underftand, among a ftrange 
 people, is alfo refolved into a myftery. Thus, the following 
 figure, which the Chinefe, in allufion to the regular lines de- 
 fcribed on the back-fhell of fome of the tortoifes, metaphori- 
 cally call the myftic tortoife, has been fuppofed by fome of 
 thefe gentlemen to contain the moft fublime dodtrines of Chi- 
 nefe philofophy ; that they embrace a lummary of all that is 
 perfedt and imperfed, reprefent the numbers of heaven and 
 earth, and fuch like jargon, which, it obvioufly appears, is no 
 lefs unintelligible to themfelves than to their readers. 
 
 Thefe famous lines, fuppofed to be found on the back of a 
 tortoife, are the following : 
 
 oo-oo-o-oo-o-o 
 
 y 
 
 °\° 
 
 •^ ° x» 
 
 "Who does not perceive, at a fmgle glance, In this figure the 
 common fchool-boy's trick of the magic fquare, or placing the 
 nine digits fo that they fhall make the fum of fifteen every 
 way, thus,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 279 
 
 2 1 9 U 
 
 7 1 5 1 3 
 6 1 I ! 8 
 
 and what are the perfed and imperfed numbers, but the odd 
 and even digits diftinguifhed by open and clofe points ? In like 
 manner, I am inclined to believe, the feveral ways of placing 
 thefe open and clofe points that occur in Chinefe books are li- 
 terally nothing more than the different combinations of the 
 nine numerical figures, for which they are fubftituted. 
 
 Mofl of the other k'mg have been tranflated, wholly or in 
 part, and publifhed in France. It may be obferved, however, 
 that all the Chinefe writings, tranflated by the miffionaries, 
 have undergone fo great a change in their European drefs, that 
 they ought rather to be looked upon as originals than tranflations. 
 It is true, a literal tranflation would be nonfenfe, but there is 
 a great difference between giving the meaning of an author, 
 and writing a commentary upon him. Sir William Jones ob- 
 ferves that the only method of doing juflice to the poetical 
 compofitions of the Afiatics, is to give firfl a verbal and then 
 a metrical verfion. The moft barren fubjedt, under his elegant 
 pen, becomes replete with beauties. The following flanza, 
 from one of the odes of the Jhec-king^ is an inflance of this re- 
 mark. It is calculated to have been written about the age of 
 Homer ; and it confifls of fifteen charaders. 
 
 The peach-tree, how fair, how graceful, its leaves, bow bloom-
 
 cSo TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 78 9 10 It 
 
 in<^, how pleafant ; fuch is a bride, when fhe enters her bride- 
 
 II ij 14 15 
 
 groom's houfe, and attends to her whole family. 
 
 This is a fair traaflation, as no more expletives are inferted 
 than fuch as were neceflary to make up the fenfe, and it is thus 
 paraphrafed by Sir William Jones. 
 
 " Giiy child of Spring, the garden's queen, 
 " Yon peach tree charms the roving fight ; 
 '' Its fragrant leaves how richly green ! 
 •* Its bloflbms, how divinely briglit ! 
 
 " So foftly fmiles the blooming bride, 
 
 " By love and confcious virtue led, 
 
 " O'er her new manfion to prcfide, 
 
 " And placid joys around her fprcad." 
 
 The late Emperor Klen-Lotig was confidered among the beft 
 poets of modern times, and the moft celebrated of his compofi- 
 tions is an ode in praife of Tea, which has been painted on all 
 the teapots in the empire. The following is a verbal tranflation, 
 with fuch auxiliaries only as were neceffary to make the fenfe 
 complete, 
 
 " On allow fire fet a tripod, whofe colour and texture (hew 
 " its long ufe ; fill it with clear fnow water ; boil it as long as 
 •' would be neceffary to turn fifh white, and crayfifh red ; 
 " throw it upon the delicate leaves of choice tea, in a cup of 
 " yooe (a particular fort of porcelain). Let it remain as long 
 " as the vapour rifes in a cloud, and leaves only a thin mift- 
 " floating on the furface. At your eafe, drink this precious li- 
 *' quor, which will chafe away the five caufes of trouble. We 
 
 can
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 281 
 
 " can tafte and feel, but not defcribe, the ftate of repofe pro- 
 " duced by a liquor thus prepared." 
 
 He wrote, Ilkewlfe, a long defcriptive poem on the city and 
 country of Moukden, in Mantchoo Tartary, which has been 
 tranflated by feme of the miffionaries, and appears to poflefs 
 much more merit than his ode on tea, of which, however, it is 
 difficult to judge without a thorough knowledge of the language, 
 asthe o de may owe its chief beauties and its fame more to the 
 choice of the charadlers than to the founds, literal fenfe, or veri- 
 fication. To an European the Chinefe language appears to 
 have few elegancies : it wants all the little auxiliaries that add 
 grace and energy to thofe of Europe. In the Chinefe the 
 beauty of an expreffion depends entirely on the choice of the 
 character, and not on any feledlion or arrangement of the 
 monofyllabic founds. A charafler uniting a happy affociation 
 of ideas has the fame effed: upon the eye of the Chinefe, as a 
 general theorem exprefled in fymbols has on a mathematician ; 
 but in both cafes a man muft be learned to feel the beauties of 
 the concife expreffion. Even in fpeaking the language has 
 few expletives. " Englifh good, Chinefe better," — " to-day 
 go, to-morrow come,"—*' fea no bound, Kiang no bottom ; — 
 " well, not well ;" — are modes of expreffion in which an Eu- 
 ropean will not find much elegance. 
 
 In addition to the defeds of the language, there is another 
 reafon why poetry is not likely ever to become a favourite pur- 
 fuit, or to be cultivated with fuccefs, among the Chinefe. The 
 date of fociety we have feen to be fuch as entirely to exclude 
 
 o o the
 
 282 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the paflion of love. A man, in this country, marries only 
 from neceffity, or for the fake of obtaining an heir to his pro- 
 perty, who may facrifice to his manes, or becaufe the maxims 
 of the government have made it difgraceful to remain in a ftate 
 of celibacy. The fine fentiments that arife from the mutual 
 endearment of two perfons enamoured of each other can 
 therefore have no place in the breaft of a Chinefe : and it is to 
 the effufions of a heart thus circumftanced, that poetry owes 
 fome of its greateft charms. Nor can they be confidered as a 
 nation of warriors ; and war, next to love, has ever been the 
 favourite theme of the mufes. 
 
 The language is much better adapted to the conclfe ftyle of 
 ethics, than the fublime flights of poetry. The moral precepts 
 of Cong-foo-tfe difplay an excellent mind in the writer, and 
 would do honour to any age and nation. The following will 
 fcrve as a fpecimen of his fubjedts, ftyle, and manner. 
 
 " There is one clear rule of conduct : to act with fmcerity; and 
 " to conform with all one's foul, and .with all one's ftrength, to 
 " this univerfal rule — do not any thing to another, that you 
 " would not wifli another fhould do to you," 
 
 How conformable is this fentlment as well as the words in which 
 it is exprefl'edjto that of the great Author of our religion ; a re- 
 ligion whofe " ways are ways of pleafantnefs, and all whofe 
 " paths are peace." 
 
 « Five
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 183 
 
 " Five tilings ought to be well obferved In the world : 
 " Juftice between the prince and the fubjed ; affedion be- 
 " tween father and fon ; fidelity between man and wife j fub- 
 *' ordination among brothers j concord among friends. 
 
 *' There are three radical virtues : prudence to difcern, uni- 
 " verfal benevolence to embrace (all mankind) j courage to 
 « fuftain. 
 
 " What pafles in a man's mind is unknown to others : If you 
 *' are wife, take great care of what none but yourfelf can fee. 
 
 *' Examples are better for the people than precepts. 
 
 " A wife man is his own moft fevere cenfor : he is his own 
 *' accufer, his own evidence, and his own judge." 
 
 " A nation may accomplifh more by bravery than by fire 
 " and water. I never knew a people perifh, who had courage 
 " for their fupport." 
 
 " An upright man will not purfue a crooked path ; he follows 
 " the ftraight road, and walks therein fecure." 
 
 Having taken this fhort view of their language and literature, 
 I fhall now proceed to fhew the prefent Hate of the arts and 
 fclences, as far as the communications I had not only with the 
 mifTionaries, but alfo with fome of the moft learned Chinefe, 
 will allow me to pronounce on thefe points. The obfervations 
 
 002 I have
 
 a84 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 I have to make muft of courfe be very general ; minute parti- 
 culars will not be expected In a work of this nature. There Is 
 no branch of fcience which the Chinefe afFedt to value fo much, 
 and underftand fo little, as aftronomy. The neceifity indeed 
 of being able to mark, with fome degree of precifion, the returns- 
 of the feafons and certain periods, in fo large a community^ 
 muft have diredted an early attention of the government to this 
 fubjedt J and accordingly we find, that an aftronomieal board 
 has formed one of the ftate eftabllfliments from the earlieft pe- 
 riods of their hiftory. Yet fo little progrefs have they made in 
 this fcience, that the only part of its fundions, which can be 
 called aftronomieal, has long been committed to the care of 
 foreigners, whom they afFe<3: to hold in contempt and to con- 
 fider as barbarians. The principal object of this board is to 
 frame and to publifh a national calendar, and to point out to the 
 government the fuitable times and feafons for its Important un- 
 dertakings. Even when the marriage of a prince or princefs of 
 the blood is about to take place, the commiffioners of aftronomy 
 muft appoint a fortunate day for the celebration of the nup- 
 tials, which Is armounced in form In the Pekin Gazette. 
 
 In this Important almanack, as In the Greek and Roman ca- 
 lendars, are inferted all the fuppofed lucky and unlucky days In 
 the year, predidions of the weather, days proper for taking me- 
 dicine, commencing journies, taking home a wife, laying the 
 foundation of a houfe, and other matters of moment, for enter- 
 ing upon which particular times are afligned. To the fuperin- 
 tendency of the Chinefe members of this auguft tribunal is com- 
 mitted the aftrological part, a committee of whom Is feleded 
 
 annually
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. S85 
 
 annually for the execution of this important tafk. Whether 
 the men of letters, as they call themfelves, really believe in the 
 abfurdities of judicial aftrology, or whether they may think it 
 neceflary to encourage the obfervance of popular fuperftitions, 
 on political confiderations, I will not take upon me to decide. 
 If, however, they /hould happen to pofTefs any fuch fuperior 
 knowledge, great credit is due to them for acTting the farce with 
 fuch apparent earneftnefs, and with fo much folemnlty. The 
 duration of the fame fyftem has certainly been long enough for 
 them to have difcovered, that the multitude are more effedtual- 
 ly governed by opinion than by power^ 
 
 The phenomena of the heavenly bodies, to an enlightened 
 and inteUigent mind, furnifh the moft grand and fublime fpec- 
 taclc in nature ; to the ignorant and fuperftitious, the moft 
 awful. The common people of all countries, and in all ages, 
 have confidered the occafional privation of the light of the two 
 great luminaries of heaven as the forerunners of fome extraor- 
 dinary event, whilft the more intelligent part of the community 
 have . turned thefe fuperftitious notions to their advantage. 
 Thales is faid to have been able to calculate the returns of 
 ecHpfes fix hundred years before the birth of Chrift ; of courfe, 
 he was well acquainted with the caufes by which they were 
 produced ; yet his countrymen were always filled with fuper- 
 ftition and terror on the event of an eclipfe. Plutarch has ob- 
 ferved that Pericles learned from Anaxagoras to overcome the 
 terrors which the various phenomena of the heavens infpired 
 into thofe who knew not their caufes ; and he mentions a ftrik- 
 
 ing
 
 -re TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ing proof which he gave of this knowledge, on his expediiion 
 againft Peloponnefus, when there happened an eclipfe of the fun. 
 The fudden darknefs, being confidered as an omen unfavour- 
 able to the objedt of the expedition, occafioned a general con- 
 fternation. Pericles, obferving the pilot of his own galley to be 
 frightened and confufed, took his cloak and placed it before 
 his eyes, afking him at the fame time if he found any thing 
 alarming, or of evil prefage, in what he then did ? and upon 
 his anfwering in the negative ; " Where then is the difference," 
 faid Pericles, " between this covering and the other, except 
 *' that fomething of greater extent than my cloak-deprives us of 
 " the light of the fun ?" Nor can it be doubted that Alexan- 
 der when, oa a like occafion, previous to the battle of Arbela, 
 he commanded a facrifice to be made to the fun, the moon, 
 And the earth, as being the three powers to which eclipfes were 
 owing, did it merely to appeafe the fuperflitious notions of his 
 army. To fuppoie him ignorant of their caufes, would be pay- 
 ing an ill compliment to his great mafter. Thus it might have 
 been with regard to the Chinefe government, which, whether 
 through ignorance or policy, flill continues to obferve with the 
 greateil folemnity the fame ceremonies, or nearly i'o, on the 
 event of an eclipfe, which were in ufe among the Egyptians, 
 Greeks, and Romans, near two thoufand years ago. When 
 the moon was darkened by an eclipfe, their drums and clarions 
 and trumpets were founded, under the notion that, by their 
 fhrill and loud noife, they might affift in relieving the labour- 
 ing goddefs. 
 
 « A vaa
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 287 
 
 " A vaft eclipfe darkens the neighbouring planet, 
 " Sound there, found all our iaftruments of war ; 
 " Clarions and trumpets, filver, brafs, and iron, 
 " And beat a thoufand drums to help her labour." 
 
 The brazen gong is violently beat by the Chinefe on the fame 
 ocf afion ; and that fuch an event may not pafs unobferved, and 
 the luminary thereby be deprived of the ufual afBftance of mu- 
 fic, to frighten away or to charm the dragon, which they fup- 
 pofe to have feized upon it, the great officers of ftate in every 
 city and principal town are inftruded to give public notice of 
 the time it will happen, according to the calculations of the na- 
 tional almanack. A rude projedtion of a lunar eclipfe, that 
 happened whilfl: we were at Toiig-cboo, was ftuck up in the cor- 
 ners of the ftreets ; all the officers were in mourning, and all 
 bufinefs was fufpended for that day. When the Dutch Embaf- 
 fadors were in Pekin, the fun was eclipfed on the 21ft of Janu- 
 ary 1795, which happened to be the firft day of their new 
 year: a day obferved through the whole empire with the greateft 
 feftivlty and rejoicing ; and almoft the only day on which 
 the bulk of the people refrain from their refpeftive occupa- 
 tions. The Embaflador and his fuite were fummoned to court 
 at the ufual hour of three in the morning. On arriving at the 
 palace they were told that, in confequence of an eclipfe of the 
 fun, which was about to happen on that day and which was 
 a moft unfortunate event, portending an unhappy year to their 
 country, the Emperor would not be vifible for three days, dur- 
 ing which time the whole court would go into mourning j that 
 the amufements, feafts, and entertainments ufual on this parti- 
 cular
 
 488 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 cular day would be fufpended from one end of the empire to 
 the other. 
 
 Before an eclipfe happens, the members of the mathematical 
 board and other learned men in office aflemble near the 
 palace, each having in his hand a fketch of the obfcuration, in 
 order to witnefs the truth of the aftronomer's calculation. But 
 if thefe people were not all interefted in making the calculation 
 t-o agree with the time and other circumftances of the eclipfe, the 
 aftronomers would run no great hazard of being delected in an 
 error, provided it was not a very glaring one, as they have no 
 inftruments for meafuring time with any tolerable degree of ac- 
 curacy. The moment the eclipfe begins, they all-fall down on their 
 knees, and bow their heads nine times to the ground, during 
 which is flruck up a horrible crafh of gongs, kettle-drums, 
 trumpets, and other noify inftruments, intended to fcare the 
 devouring dragon. 
 
 From the obfervance of fuch extravagant ceremonies it would 
 not be fair to infer their total ignorance of the principles of 
 aftronomy ; but that fuch is really the cafe, the latter part of 
 their hiftory furnilhes abundant teftimony. In the thirteenth 
 century, when Gen- gis Khan the Mongul Tartar firft entered 
 China, and his fucceflbr Kublai Khan effedted the conqueft of 
 the country, the greateft diforder and confufion prevailed in 
 their chronology. They were neither able to regulate the rec- 
 koning of time, nor to fettle the limits of the different provinces, 
 nor even to afcertain the divifions of lands as allotted to the fe- 
 deral diftrids. Kublai, according to their own annals, held out en- 
 couragement
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 289 
 
 couragement for learned men to frequent his court from every 
 part of the world, and through the means of the miflionaries, 
 both of the Chriftian and Mahomedan faith, hut principally the 
 latter, and perhaps ftiU more through the defcendants of the 
 Greeks, who anciently fettled in Badlriana, many important 
 improvements were then introduced into China. He caufed a 
 regular furvey to be taken of the whole empire. He adjufted 
 their chronology, and corre£led the errors of their aftronomical 
 obfervations ; he imported various mathematical and aftronomi- 
 cal inftruments from Balk and Samarcand ; fuch as were then ia 
 life among the Chinefe being of a rude conftrudiion, and unfit 
 to make obfervations of the heavenly bodies with any tolerable 
 degree of accuracy ; and he repaired the grand communication 
 by water that conne£ts the northern with the fouthern extre- 
 mities of the empire, a work, in the contemplation of which 
 the mind is not more ftrongly imprefled with the grandeur and 
 magnitude of the objed, than with the pleafmg fenfe of its im- 
 portant utility. 
 
 In fome of the early accounts of China, publiflied in Europe, 
 we find the defcription of certain inftruments, faid to have 
 been difcovered on a mountain near the city of Nankin, and 
 afterwards placed by the Chinefe partly in that capital and 
 partly in Pekin. On a more accurate examination of thofe in- 
 ftruments it appeared, that they had all been conftruded for 
 fome particular place lying under the 37th parallel of latitude; 
 from whence it followed, that all the obfervations made with 
 them at Pekin, which is in 39°. ^5, north, as well as all thofe 
 made at Nankin in 32°. 4. north, muft have been entirely falfe: 
 
 P P and
 
 ,50 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 and the very a£l of placing them fo diftant from the parallel 
 for which they were conftriided, is in iifelf a fufEcient proof 
 of the i'^-norance of the Chinefe ia niatters of this kind. 
 Mr. Pauw has given the mofl probable conjedure refpe£ting 
 thofe inftraments. He fuppofes them to have been made at 
 Balk in Badriana, by fome of thofe Greeks who obtained the 
 government of that province under the fucceflbrs of Alexander, 
 and that they had paffed into China during the period of the 
 Mongul government. 
 
 The death of Kublai Khan was fpeedily followed by the 
 total expulfion of the Tartars from China ; and moft probably, 
 at the fame time, of all thofe learned men they had been the 
 means of introducing into the country } for when the empire 
 was again fubdued by the Mantchoo Tartars, whole race now 
 fills the throne, Sim-cbee^ the firft Emperor of the prefent 
 dynafty, obferves in an edid publiflied by him in 1650, that 
 fmce the expulfion of the Monguls, the Chinefe had not beea 
 able to make a corred almanack ; and that error had been accu- 
 mulating on error in their aftronomical obfervations and chro- 
 nology. At this time, fome Mahomedans were again found to 
 fuperintend the conftrudion of the calendar ; but the ofEce de- 
 volving, at length, upon a Chinefe, the unfortunate almanack- 
 maker happened to infert a falfe intercalation, afligning thirteen 
 months to the year 1670, when it fhould have contained no 
 more than twelve. This miftake was an event too fortunate to 
 be overlooked by fome catholic miflionaries who, at that time, 
 happened to be in the capital. They faw the advantages to be 
 derived from convincing the Tartars of the ignorance of the 
 
 Chinefe
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 291 
 
 Chlnefe In a matter of the laft importance to the government, 
 and they had little doubt of fuccefs, where prejudice was al- 
 ready operating in their favour. In fhort, the Europeans fuc- 
 ceeded ; the almanacks of that year were declared defective, 
 were called in, a new edition printed off, and the poor alma- 
 nack^maker is faid to have been ftranglgd. 
 
 Four German Jefuits were then appointed to fill the vacant 
 places in the tribunal of mathematics ; and, being men of learn- 
 ing, they proved of no fmall ufe at court. After thefe the Por- 
 tuguefe fucceeded to the appointments of regulating the calendar, 
 three of whom, as already obferved, are now entrufted with 
 this important office. Fortunately for thefe gentlemen, the 
 Chinefe have no means of detedting any little inaccuracies that 
 may happen in their calculations. I faw, and converfed with, 
 numbers of their learned men at the palace of Tiien-mhi-ynen^ 
 but I can fafely fay, that not a fingle Chinefe, nor a Tartar, 
 who fhewed themfelves there, were pofTeffed of the flighted 
 knowledge of aftronomy, nor one who could explain any of the 
 various phenomena of the heavenly bodies. Aftronomy with 
 them confifts entirely in a certain jargon of judicial aftrology ; 
 and they remain firmly attached to the belief of the dodrines of 
 their great philofopher, delivered more than two thoufand years 
 ago, which teach them that " the heaven is round, the earth a 
 " fquare fixed in the middle ; the other four elements placed 
 " at its four fides : water to the north ; fire to the fouth ; wood 
 " to the eaft; and metal to the weft :" and they believe the 
 ftars to be ftuck, like fo many nails, at equal diftances from the 
 earth, in the blue vault of heaven. 
 
 P P 2 As
 
 2g2 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 As to the numerous eclipfes taken notice of In the re- 
 cords of the country, they are mere regifters, noted down 
 whenever they happened, and not predidlions or the refult 
 of calculations. It does not appear, indeed, that the Chi- 
 nefe were, at any time, able to predict an eclipfe, notwith- 
 ftanding all that has been faid in their favour on this fubje£t. 
 The reputed Chinefe tables, publifhed by father Couplet, have 
 been deteded to be thofe of Tycho Brahe ; and Caflini found 
 the chronology of their eclipfes, publiflied by Martinus, to be 
 erroneous, and their returns impoffible. It could not indeed 
 be otherwife ; the defedivenefs of the calendar muft neceflarily 
 falfify all their records as to time. 
 
 Had the miflionaries been difpofed to confer a real fervice on 
 the Chinefe, inftead of mifleading the world by their ftrange and 
 wonderful accounts of this people; inftead of beftowing fo 
 much time in tranflating into Chinefe a fet of logarithm tables 
 for the ufe of Kaungjloee^ the fecond Emperor of the prefent 
 dynafty, of which they pretend he was fo fond that he always 
 carried them about with him fufpended to his girdle, they 
 Ihould rather have taught them the ufe, and the convenience, 
 of the Arabic numbers, of whofe combinations and refults their 
 own language is not capable, and have inftrudted a few of their 
 youth in the principles of arithmetic and the mathematics. For 
 fuch an omiffion, however, human nature can readily find an 
 excufe. It would be too great an inftance of felf-denial, to re- 
 linquifh the advantages and the credit which their fuperior fkill 
 had gained them over a vaft empire, by making the individuals 
 of that empire participate in their knowledge. 
 
 When
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 293 
 
 When we refled:, for a moment, how many perplexities and 
 difficuhies were occafioned by the irregular coincidences of 
 the folar and lunar periods, in the calendars of Europe, from the 
 time of Julius Cacfar to the altering of the ftyle by pope Gre- 
 gory, we may readily conceive how great muft be the errors in 
 the chronology of a country, where the inhabitants are entirely 
 ignorant even of the firft principles of aftronomy, and where 
 they depended on the adventitious aid of foreigners, to enable 
 them to carry into execution one of the moft important concerns 
 of the government. 
 
 Every thing of their own invention and difcovery carries 
 with it fuch ftrong marks of originality, as cannot eafily be 
 miftaken. The language declares itfelf to be moft unqueftion- 
 ably the production of the country ; fo does the mariner's com- 
 pafs J and they have a cycle, or period, to affift their chrono- 
 logy, of which I think none will difpute with them the inven- 
 tion. In their records it is carried back to the time of the Em- 
 peror Whang-tee^ the third from Fo-JJjee. This cycle, conlift- 
 ing of fixty years, has no reference tO' the periods of the mo- 
 tions or coincidences of the fun and moon, as one of the fame 
 period among the Hindus, but is ufed merely as our century, 
 to diftinguifh time into eras or ages. Inftead of denominating 
 any given year the firft, fecond, or third year of fuch a cycle, 
 they have afTumed two fets of eharadlers, one fet confifting of 
 ten, and the other of twelve ; the firft are called the ten roots, 
 and the fecond the twelve branches. The combination of a 
 root and a branch gives a name for the year ; and the different 
 permutations, of which they ,are capable, fupply them with 
 
 fixty
 
 294 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fixty dlftlniSt titles, making the complete cycle of fixty years. 
 The nature of this period may be rendered familiar to fuch as are 
 not converfant with the combination of numbers, by afliiming 
 the numerals from i to lo for the ten roots, and the letters of 
 the alphabet from a to /«, for the twelve branches, and by 
 placing them in a circle, in the following manner, where the 
 cycle begins with the letter cu 
 
 10 
 
 9 8^ 
 
 'X e ^ 
 
 5 ^ <.- 
 
 ^ \ ^ Qi 
 
 ^ ^ ^ r & ji 
 
 A ^ 6 
 
 ^ 01 X 
 
 ^ % ^ 
 
 Suppofing thefe letters and figures to be Chinefe charaders, the 
 firft year of any cycle would be called la, the fecond 2l>, the 
 third y. and fo on to lojf, the tenth year; the eleventh wouW 
 be i/, the twelfth 2m, the thirteenth 3^, and the fixtieth 
 
 10m 
 
 i
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^ 295 
 
 10m, when the whole revolution would be completed. This 
 cycle, though always ufed in the records of their hiftory, never 
 appears in the date of public adts. Thefe only fpecify the time 
 of the reign under which they are given, as the I ft. 2d. or 3d. 
 day of the ift. 2d. or 3d moon, of the ift. ad. or 3d. year of the 
 reignof fuch or fuch an Emperor. 
 
 Little progrefs as they appear to have made in the fcience of 
 aftronomy, their knowledge of geography, which fuppofes in- 
 deed an acquaintance with the former, is equally limited. Their 
 own empire was confidered to occupy the middle fpace of the 
 fq\iare furface of the earth, the reft of which was made up of 
 iflands. When the Jefuits firft entered China, they found the 
 charts, even of their own country, rude and incorredt fkeiches, 
 without any fcale or proportion,, wherein a ridge of mountains 
 covered a whole- province, and a river fwept away haJf of an- 
 other. At prefent they have neat and accurate maps of the 
 country, copied after the original furvey of the whole empire, 
 undertaken and completed by the Jefuits, after feveral years of 
 indefatigable labour.. 
 
 Although the Chlnefe language be unfavourable for nu- 
 mercial combinations it is admirably adapted for the conclfe 
 operations of algebra, and the terfe demonftrations of geome- 
 try, to neither of which, however, has it ever been made fub- 
 fervient, both the one and the other being totally unknown in 
 the country. Their arithmetic is mechanical. To find the 
 aggregate of numbers, a machine is in univerfal ufe, from the 
 man of letters, to the meaneft fhopman behind his counter. 
 By this machine, which is called a Sivan-pan^ arithmetical 
 operations are rendered palpable. It confiils of a frame of 
 
 I wood,
 
 296 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 wood, divided Into two compartments by a bar running down 
 the middle : through this bar, at right angles, are inferted a 
 number of parallel wires, and on each wire, in one compart- 
 ment, are five moveable balls, and in the other two. Thefe 
 wires may be confidered as the afcending and defcending powers 
 of a numeration table, proceeding in a tenfold proportion ; fo 
 that if a ball upon any of the wires, in the larger compartment, 
 be placed againft the middle bar, and called unity or one, a ball 
 on the wire next above it will reprefent ten, and one on the 
 next one hundred ; fo, alfo, a ball on the wire next below that 
 expreffing unity will be one-tenth, the next lower one hun- 
 dredth, and the third one thoufandth, part of an unit ; and the 
 balls on the correfponding wires in the fmaller compartment 
 will be five, fifty, five hundred, five-tenths, five hundredths, 
 five thoufandths ; the value or power of each of thefe, in the 
 fmaller divlfion, being always five times as much as of thofe in 
 the larger. In the following figure, fuppofe X be alTumed as the 
 line of units, the lines to the right will be integers decimally in- 
 creafing, and thofe to the left frailional parts decimally decreaf- 
 ing ; and the Swan-pan in the prefent pofition of the balls, will 
 reprefent the number !^yi,q\6 ~r%''-°:s^- 
 
 Th 
 
 IS
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 297 
 
 This Is clearly a fyftem of decimal arithmetic, which, for the 
 cife, fimplicity, and convenience of its operations, it were to 
 be wifhed was generally adopted in Europe, inftead of the 
 endlefs ways in which the integer is differently divided in dif- 
 ferent countries, and in the different provinces of the fame 
 country. The Swan-pan would be no bad inftrumenl for 
 teaching to a blind perfon the operations of arithmetic. Yet, 
 paradoxical as it may feem, thcfe operations, as performed by 
 the Chinefe, like their written charadlers, require more the ex- 
 ercife of the eye than of the mind. The fimple addition or fub- 
 tradion of the little balls to, or from, the middle bar, (hews at 
 once by their difpofition on the board the refult of any required 
 combination. The invention of it I think may fairly be attri- 
 buted to the Chinefe ; though it has been compared, how juftly 
 -I cannot pretend to fay, to the Roman abacus. 
 
 It has been obferved, and perhaps with a great deal of truth, 
 that the arts which fupply the luxuries, the conveniencies, and 
 the necelTaries of life, have derived but little advantage in the 
 firfl inftance from the labours and fpeculations of philofophers ; 
 that the ingenuity of artlfts, the accidental or progreffive dif- 
 coverics of common workmen, in any particular branch of bufi- 
 nefs, have frequently afforded -t'*?/;?, from which, by the rea- 
 fonings and inveftigations of philofophers, hints have fome- 
 times been ftruck out for arriving at the fame ends by a fhorter 
 way ; that the learned are therefore more properly to be con- 
 fidered as improvers than inventors. Of this mortifying truth, 
 the Chinefe afford many ftrong examples in their arts and ma- 
 niifadures, and particularly in fome of thcfe operations that 
 have a reference to chemiftry, which cannot here be faid to 
 
 Q^ Q. exift
 
 298 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 exift as a fclence, although feveral branches are in common 
 pradice as chemical arts. Without pofieffing any theory con- 
 cerning the affinities of bodies, or attractions of cohefion or 
 aggrcgation, they clarify the muddy waters of their rivers, for 
 immediate ufe, by ftirring them round with a piece of alum in 
 a hollow bamboo ; a fimple operation which, experience has 
 taught them, will caufe the clayey particles to fall to the bot- 
 tom : and having afcertained the fa6l, they have given them- 
 felves no further trouble to explain the phenomenon. 
 
 In like manner, they are well acquainted with the efFe£l of 
 fleam upon certain bodies that are immerfed in it ; that its heat 
 is much greater than that of boiling water. Yet, although for 
 ages they have been in the conftant pradlice of confining it in 
 clofe vefTels, fomething like Papins digejler^ for the purpofe of 
 foftening horn, from which their thin, tranfparent, and capa- 
 cious lanterns are made, they feem not to have difcovered it& 
 extraordinary force when thus pent up ; at leaft, they have 
 never thought of applying that power to purpofes which animal 
 ftrength has not been adequate to efFed. They extract from 
 the three kingdoms of nature the moft brilliant colours, which 
 they have alfo acquired the art of preparing and mixing, io 
 as to produce every intermediate tint ; and, in their richeft and 
 moft lively hues, they communicate thefe colours to filks, cot- 
 tons, and paper ; yet they have no theory on colours. 
 
 The procefs of fmelting iron from the ore Is well known to 
 them ; and their caft ware of this metal is remarkably thin and 
 light. They have alfo an imperfect knowledge of converting 
 
 I it
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. '299 
 
 It into fled, but their manufadlures of this article arc not to be 
 mentioned with thofe of Europe, I will not lay of England, 
 becaufe it ftands unrivalled in this and indeed almoft every 
 other branch of the arts. Though their caft-iron wares appear 
 light and neat, and are annealed in heated ovens, to take olF 
 fomewhat of their brktlenefs, yet their procefs of rendering 
 caft iron malleable is imperfect, and all their manufa<flures of 
 wrought iron are confequently of a very inferior kind, not 
 only in workmanfhip but alfo in the quality of the metal. 
 In moft of the other metals their manufadlures are above me- 
 diocrity. Their trinkets of filver fillagree are extremely neat, 
 and their articles of tootanague are highly finifhed. 
 
 With the ufe of cannon they pretend to have been long 
 acquainted. When Gengis-Khan entered China, in the thir- 
 teenth century, artillery and bombs and mines are faid to have 
 been employed on both fides ; yet when the city of Macao, in 
 the year 1621, made a prefent to the Emperor of three pieces 
 of artillery, it was found neceflary to fend along with them 
 three men to inftrud the Chinefe how to ufe them. The in- 
 troduflion of matchlocks, I am inclined to think, is of no 
 very ancient date ; they wear no marks of originality about 
 them, like other articles of Chinefe invention ; on the con- 
 trary, they are exad models of the old Portugueze matchlock ; 
 and differ in nothing from thofe which ftill continue to be 
 carried, as an article of commerce, by this nation to Cochin- 
 china. There can be no doubt, however, of the ufe of gun- 
 powder being known to the Chinefe long before the Chrillian 
 
 Q>Q_2 In
 
 300 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 In a very ancient treatife on the military art, there is a 
 detailed account of the manner how to annoy an enemy s 
 camp, by fpringing a mine with gunpowder; but this treatife 
 makes no mention of cannon. Fire-works, made generally of 
 gunpowder, filings of zinc, camphor, and other ingredients, 
 are defcribed in various old trads. It is eafily conceived, that 
 the deflagration of nitre was likely to be firft noticed in thofe 
 countries where it is the fpontaneous and abundant produdtion 
 of the earth, which is the cafe on the elevated defarts of Tar- 
 tary and Thibet, and on the low and extenfive plains of India 
 and China. The gunpowder, however, made by the Chinefe 
 is extremely bad. They have no particular manufadtory, but 
 each individual makes his own. It is in fadl one part of the 
 foldier's employment to prepare his own gunpowder. The 
 ufual proportions, according to Van-ia-gin^ information are, 
 
 50 pounds of nitre, 
 
 25 fulphiir, 
 
 25 charcoal. 
 
 They know not the art of granulating the pafte, as In Europe, 
 but ufe it in a coarfe powder, which fometimes cakes together 
 into a folid mafs ; and from the impurity of the nitre, (no 
 means appearing to be employed for extradting the common 
 fait it ufually contains) the leaft expofure to the air, by attracting 
 the moifture, makes it unfit for fervice. This may be one reafon 
 for their objedion to firelocks. 
 
 It has been remarked, that the three great dlfcoverles of the 
 magnetic needle, of gunpowder, and of printing, in Europe, 
 followed clofe upon the return of the famous traveller Marco 
 
 Polo.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. joi 
 
 Polo. It was the boafl: indeed of Caimg-Jhee to the Jefuits, 
 when they inftruded him in fome of the fciences of Europe, 
 that the latter country was neither acquainted with the mari- 
 ner's compafs, nor with the art of printing, nor with gun- 
 powder, till they had been in common ufe in China near 
 two thoufand years. As to gunpowder, it is pretty obvious, 
 that our countryman Roger Bacon was well acquainted with 
 the ingredients that enter into its compofition. In more than 
 one part of his works he obferves, that with faltpetre and 
 other articles may be made a fire that will inflame to a great 
 diftance; and in one place he ftates, that with fulphur, faltpetre, 
 and fomething elfe, which he difguifes under two or three 
 barbarous words, a compofition may be made, by which the 
 effeds of thunder and of lightning may be imitated. Bacon 
 died in the year 1292, and Marco Polo returned to Europe in 
 1295 J fo that he could not poffibly have received any hint 
 to lead towards the difcovery through the channel of the 
 Venetian traveller *. 
 
 If the Chinefe had, at any period of their hlftory, been 
 acquainted with the art of calling large cannon, and of making 
 
 * The invention, in Europe, is ufually attributed to one Schwartz, a German 
 Monk, about the year 1 354, which, liowever, is very doubtful, as there is every 
 reafon to believe that cannon was made ufe of at tlie battle of Crefly, which hap- 
 pened in the year 1346. And Mariana, in his account of the fiege of Algeziras by 
 the Spaniards, in the year 1342, or 1343, as quoted by Bifhop Watfon, obferves, 
 " that the Moors very much annoyed the Chriftians with their iron Ihot ;" and he 
 further adds, that " this is the firft mention made in hiftory of the ufe of gunpowder 
 " and ball." It is therefore extremely probable, that the firft introduction of 
 gunpowder into Europe was by fome Mahomedans from the eaftward, and that 
 Schwartz was not the inventor, although he might perhaps have been the firft 
 publiflier of the difcovery. 
 
 uCe
 
 302 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ufe of them in their wars, it is fcarcely probable they would 
 
 ever have loft it. Yet it is very certain the two Jefuits, Schaal 
 
 and Verbieft, took great pains to inftrudl them in the method 
 
 of cafting cannon ; in which, however, they have not made 
 
 any progrefs or improvement. I obferved, near one of the- 
 
 gates of Pekin, a few rude, ill-fhapen, and difproportionate 
 
 pieces, lying unmounted on the ground, and thefe, with 
 
 fome of the fame kind on the frontiers of Canton, and a few 
 
 pieces, apparently twelve pounders, at Hang-tcheu-foo, which 
 
 had wooden pent-houfes ere£ted over each, were the only 
 
 cannon that we noticed in the whole country. Whether the 
 
 fpecimens, exhibited in the annexed plate, which were drawn 
 
 by the late Captain Parifli of the Royal Artillery, be originally 
 
 of Chinefe invention, or borrowed from fome other nation, I 
 
 cannot take upon me to decide ; but fuch are the pieces which 
 
 are fometimes found, fcattered about the gates of fome of their 
 
 cities. 
 
 Mr. Bell, who vlfited China in the fuite of the Ruffian Em- 
 baflador, near a century ago, remarks, that '* towards the 
 " weftern extremity of the Great Wall, he obferved fome 
 *' hundreds of old cannon piled up in one of the towers, each 
 " compofed of three or four pieces of hammered iron, joined 
 " and faftened together with hoops of the fame metal." It is 
 probable indeed that the Chinefe, like the Hindoos, before the 
 time of Schaal and Verbieft, made ufe of cannon of wrought 
 iron, which were hooped together like thofe mentioned by 
 Mr. BeU. 
 
 To
 
 
 I 
 
 r,g:. 
 
 ^ 
 
 /wA»»*'-'*r''^*"T* *■*•»««'• -' 
 
 o
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 303 
 
 In making their falutes, of which they are not fparing, they 
 invariably employ three fmall petards, or piftol-barrels rather, 
 which are ftuck eredl in the ground ; and in firing thefe fmall 
 pieces the foldiers are fo afraid, that they are difcharged by 
 a train laid from one to the other. When Captain Parifh 
 caufed a few rounds to be fired from two field-pieces, which 
 were among tlie prefents for the Emperor, in as quick fuc- 
 celTion as poffible, the Chinefe officers very coolly obferved, 
 that their own foldiers could do it juft as well, and perhaps 
 better. And when Lord Macartney afked the Ex-viceroy of 
 Canton if he would wifh to fee his guard go through the diffe- 
 rent evolutions as pra£lifed in Europe, he replied with equal in- 
 difference, " That they could not poflibly be new to him, who 
 " had been fo much engaged in the wars on the frontiers of 
 *' Tartary;" though the chances are, that he had never before 
 feen a firelock : with fuch ridiculous affectation of fuperiority, 
 and contempt for other nations, does the unconquerable pride 
 of this people infpire them. It feems, indeed, to be laid down 
 as a general principle, never to be caught in the admiration of 
 any thing brought among them by foreigners. Whenever a 
 man of rank came to look at the prefents, if obferved by any 
 of us, he would carelefsly glance his eye over them, and affedt 
 as much irtdifFerence as if he was ia the daily habit of viewing 
 things of the fame kiad. 
 
 A French phyfician, who travelled in China, fays he never 
 faw an alembic or diflillatory apparatus in the whole country. 
 The art of diftillation, however, is very well known, and in 
 common pradice. Their Sau-tcboo, (literally burnt wine), is 
 
 an
 
 304 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 an ardent fpirit diftilled from various kinds of grain, but moft 
 commonly from rice, of a ftrong empyreumatic flavour, not 
 unlike the fpirit known in Scotland by the name of whifkey. 
 The rice is kept in hot water till the grains are fwollen ; it is 
 then mixed up with water in which has been diffblved a pre- 
 paration called pe-ka, confifting of rice-flour, liquorice-root, 
 annifeed, and garlic ; this not only haftens fermentation, but is 
 fuppofed to give it a peculiar flavour. The mixture then 
 undergoes diftillation. The Sau-tchoo, thus prepared, may be 
 confidered as the bafis of the bed arrack, which in Java is 
 exclufively the manufadure of Chinefe, and is nothing more 
 than a redlfication of the above fpirit, with the addition of 
 raolafles and juice of the cocoa-nut tree. Before diftlllatioa 
 the liquor is fimply called tchoo, or wine, and in this ftate is a 
 very infipid and dlfagreeable beverage. The vine grows ex- 
 tremely well in all the provinces, even as far north as Pekin, 
 but the culture of it feems to meet with little encouragement, 
 and no wane is made from the juice of the grape, except by 
 the mifllonaries near the capital. 
 
 The manufadure of eartben ware, as far as depends upon 
 the preparation of the materials, they have carried to a pitch 
 of perfedion not hitherto equalled by any nation, except the 
 Japanefe, who are allowed to excel them, not only in this 
 branch, but alfo in all articles of lacquered and varnifbed ware, 
 which fetch exorbitant prices even in China. The beauty of 
 their porcelain, in a great degree, depends upon the extreme 
 labour and attention that is paid to the aflbrtment, and the 
 preparation of the different articles employed. Thefe are in 
 
 general
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 305 
 
 general a fine fort of clay called Kao-lin which is a fpcaes 
 of Soap-rock, and a granite called Pe-titn-tfe, compofed chiefty 
 of quartz, the proportioa of mica being very fmall. Thefe 
 materials are ground down and wafhed with the greateft care ; 
 and when the pafte has been turned or moulded into forms, 
 each piece is put into a box of clay before it goes ifito the 
 oven ; yet with every precaution, it frequently happens (fo 
 much is this art ftill a work of chance) that a whole oven 
 runs together and becomes a mafs of vitrified matter. Neither 
 the Chinefe nor the Japanefe can boaft of giving to the ma- 
 terials much elegance of form. With thofe inimitable models 
 from the Greek and Roman vafes, brought into modern ufe by 
 the ingenious Mr. Wedgwood, they will not bear a compari- 
 fon. And nothing can be more rude and ill-defigned than 
 the grotefque figures and other objeds painted, or rather 
 daubed, on their porcelain, which however are generally the 
 work of the wives and children of the labouring poor. That 
 they can do better we have evident proof j for if a pattern 
 be fent out from England, the artifts in Canton will execute it 
 with fcrupulous exa£tnefs ; and their colours are inimitable. 
 
 The mannfadure of glafs was totally unknown among them 
 until the laft century when, at the recommendation of the Je- 
 fuits, a family was engaged to go from France to Pekin, for the 
 purpofe of introducing the art of glafs-making into the country. 
 The attempt failed of fuccefs, and the concern, at the death of 
 the manager, was broken up. In Canton they melt old broken 
 glafs and mold it into new forms ; and they have been taught 
 to coat plates of glafs with filver, which are partially ufed as 
 
 R R looking-
 
 206 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 looking-glafTes ; but tlielr common mirrors are of pollihed me- 
 ul, which is apparently a compofition of copper and zinc. 
 
 The pride, or the policy, of the government affeding to de- 
 fplfe any thing new or foreign, and the general want of encou- 
 ragement to new inventions, however ingenious, have been 
 greatly detrimental to the progrefs of the arts and manufadlures. 
 The people difcover no want of genius to conceive, nor of dex- 
 terity to execute ; and their imitative powers have always been 
 acknowledged to be very great. Of the truth of this remark 
 we had feveral inftances at Tiien-min-yuen. The complicated 
 glafs luftres, confifting of feveral hundred pieces, were taken 
 down, piece by piece, in the courfe of half an hour, by two 
 Chinefe, who had never feen any thing of the kind before, and 
 were put up again by them with equal facility ; yet Mr. Parker 
 thought it neceifary for our mechanics to attend at his ware- 
 houfe feveral times to fee them taken down and again put to- 
 gether, in order to be able to manage the bufinefs on their ar- 
 rival in China. A Chinefe undertook to cut a flip of glafs from 
 a large curved piece, Intended to cover the great dome of the 
 planetarium, after our two artificers had broken three fimilar 
 pieces in attempting to cut them with the help of the diamond. 
 The man performed it in private, nor could he be prevailed on to 
 fay in what manner he accomplllhed It. Being a little jagged 
 along the margin, I fufpe£t it was not cut but fradtured, per- 
 haps by pafFmg a heated Iron over a line drawn with water, or 
 fome other fluid. It is well known that a Chinefe in Canton, 
 on being fhewn an European watch, undertook, and fucceeded, 
 to make one like it, though he had never feen any thing of the 
 
 kind
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 307 
 
 kind before, but it was neccffary to furnifli him with a maia 
 fpring, which he could not make : and they now fabricate in 
 Canton, as well as in London, and at one third of the expence, 
 all thofe ingenious pieces of mechaniftn which at one time were 
 fent to China in fuch vaft quantities from the repofitories of 
 Coxe and Merlin. The mind of a Chinefe is quick and appre- 
 henfive, and his fmall delicate hands are formed for the execu- 
 tion of neat work. 
 
 The manufa£ture of filks has been eftablifhed in China at a 
 period fo remote, as not to be afcertained from hiftory j but the 
 time when the cotton plant was firft brought from the northera 
 parts of India into the fouthern provinces of China is known, 
 and noticed in their annals. That fpecies of the cotton plant, 
 from which is produced the manufadure ufually called nankin 
 cotton, is faid to loofe its peculiar yellow tint in the courfe 
 of two or three years when cultivated in the fouthern provinces, 
 owing, in all probability, to the great heat of the weather and 
 continued funOiine. I have raifed this particular fpecies at the 
 Cape of Good Hope where, upon the fame plant, as well as 
 on others produced from its feed, the pods were as full and 
 the luu of as deep a yellow in the third year as in the firft. As 
 is generally the cafe in moft of their manufadlures, thofe of filk 
 and cotton do not appear to have lately undergone progreffive 
 improvement. The want of proper encouragement from the 
 government, and the rigid adherence to ancient ufage^ have 
 rendered indeed all their fabricks ftatlonary. 
 
 R R 2 
 
 Of
 
 3o8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Of all the mechanical arts that in which they feem to have 
 attained the higheft degree of perfection is the cutting of ivory. 
 In this branch they ftand unrivalled, even at Birmingham, that 
 great nurfery of the arts and manufadures where, I under- 
 ftand, it has been attempted by means of a machine to cut ivory 
 fans and other articles, in imitation of thofe of the Chinefe 5 but 
 the experiment, although ingenious, has not hitherto fucceeded 
 to that degree, fo as to produce articles fit to vie with thofe of 
 the latter. Nothing can be more exquifitely beautiful than 
 the fine open work difplayed in a Chinefe fan, the flicks of 
 which would feem to be fingly cut by the hand, for whatever 
 pattern may be required, or a fhield with coat of arms, or a 
 cypher, the article will be finifhed according to the drawing at 
 the fhorteft notice. The two outfide flicks are full of bold 
 fliarp work, undercut in fuch a manner as could not be per- 
 formed any other way than by the hand. Yet the moil finifhed 
 and beautiful of thefe fans may be purchafed at Canton for , 
 five to ten Spanifh dollars *. Out of a folid ball of ivory, with 
 a hole in it not larger than half an inch in diameter, they will 
 cut from nine to fifteen diflind hollov/ globes, one within an- 
 other, all loofe and capable of being turned round in every di- 
 redion, and each of them carved full of the fame kind of upcn 
 work that appears on the fans. A very fmall fum of money 
 is the price of one of thefe difficult trifles. Models of temples, 
 
 * 1 am aware that thofe laboured pieces, of Italian make, of ivory cut into land- 
 Icapes, with houfes, trees, and figures j fometimes fo fmall as to be comprehended 
 within the compafs of a ring, may be quoted againft me ; but the work of a folitary 
 and feciuded monk to beguile the weary hours, is not to be brought in competition 
 with that of a common Chinefe artift, by which he earns his livelihood. 
 
 pagodas.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^09 
 
 pagodas, and other pieces of architedure, are beautifully worked 
 ia ivory ; and from the Ihavings, interwoven with pieces 
 of quills, they make neat bafkets and hats, which are as light 
 and pliant as thofe of ftraw. In fhort, all kinds of toys for 
 children, and other trinkets and trifles, are executed in a neater 
 manner and for lefs money in China, than in any other part 
 of the world. 
 
 The various ufes, to which that elegant fpecies of reed called 
 the bamboo is applied, would require a volume to enumerate. 
 Their chairs, their tables, their fkreens, their bedfteads and 
 bedding, and many other houfehold moveables, are entirely 
 conftrutSted of this hollow reed, and fome of them in a manner 
 fufficiently ingenious and beautiful. It is ufed on board (hips 
 for poles, for fails, for cables, for rigging, and for caulking. 
 In hufbandry for carts, for wheelbarrows, for wheels to raife 
 water, for fences, for facking to hold grain, and a variety of 
 other utenfils. The young fhoots furnifh an article of food ; 
 and the wicks of their candles are made of its fibres. It ferves 
 to embellifh the garden of the prince, and to cover the cottage 
 of the peafant. It is the inftrument, in the hand of power, that 
 keeps the whole empire in awe. In fhort, there are few ufes to 
 which a Chinefe cannot apply the bamboo, either entire or 
 fplit into thin laths, or further divided into fibres to be twifted 
 into cordage, or macerated into a pulp to be manufadtured in- 
 to paper. 
 
 That " there is nothing new under the fun," was the obfer- 
 vation of a wife man in days of yore. ImpreUed with the 
 
 fame
 
 310 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fane idea an Ingenious and learned modern author* has writ- 
 ten a book to prove, that all the late difcoveries and Inventions 
 of Europe were known to the ancients. The diTcovery of mak- 
 ing paper from ftraw, although nev/, perhaps, in Europe, is of 
 very ancient date in China. The ftraw of rice and other grain, 
 the bark of the mulberry-tree, the cotton flirub, hemp, nettles, 
 and various other plants and materials, are employed in the 
 paper manufa£lories of China, where llieets are prepared of 
 fuch dimenfions, that a fingle one may be had to cover the 
 whole fide of a moderate fized room. The finer fort of paper 
 for writing upon has a furface as fmooth as vellum, and is 
 wafhed with a ftrong folution of alum to prevent the Ink from 
 finking. Many old perfons and children earn a livelihood by 
 wafliing the ink from written paper, which, being afterwards 
 beaten and boiled to a pafte, is re-manufa£lured Into new flieets; 
 and the Ink Is aUb leparated from the water, and preferved for 
 future ufe. To this article of their manufiidlure the arts in 
 our own country owe fo many advantages, that little requires 
 to be faid in Its favour. The Chinefe, however, acknowledge 
 their obligations to the Coreans for the improvements in mak- 
 ing ink, which, not many centuries ago, were received froni 
 them. 
 
 As to the art of printing, there can be little doubt of Its an- 
 tiquity in China, yet they have never proceeded beyond a 
 wooden block. The nature. Indeed, of the charadler is fuch, 
 that moveable types would fcarcely be pra<S:Icable. It is true, 
 
 • Mr. Dute;is._ 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^ii 
 
 the component parts of the charadters are fufficlently fimple 
 and few in number ; but the difficulty of putting them together 
 upon the frame, into the multitude of forms of which they are 
 capable, is perhaps not to be furmounted. 
 
 Like the reft of their inventions the chain-pump which, in 
 Europe, has been brought to fuch perfedtion as to conftitute 
 an effential part of {hips of war and other large veflels, con- 
 tinues among the Chinefe nearly in its primitive ftate, the prin- 
 cipal improvement fince its firfl invention confifting in the fub- 
 flitution of boards or bafket-work for wifps of ftraw. Its power 
 with them has never been extended beyond that of raifmg a 
 fmall ftream of water up an inclined plane, from one refervoir 
 to another, to ferve the purpofes of irrigation. They are of dif- 
 ferent fizes, fome worked by oxen, fome by treading in a wheel, 
 and others by the hand. 
 
 The great advantages attainable from the ufe of mechanical 
 powers are either not underftood or, purpofely, not employed. 
 In a country of fuch vaft population, machinery may perhaps 
 be confidered as detrimental efpecially as, at leaft, nine-tenths 
 of the community muit derive their fubfiftence from manual la- 
 bour. It may be a queftion, not at all decided in their minds, 
 whether the general advantages of facilitating labour, and gain- 
 ing time by means of machinery, be fufficient to counterba- 
 lance the individual diftrefs that would, for a time, be occa- 
 fioned by the introduction of fuch machinery. Whatever the 
 reafon may be, no fuch means are to be met with in the coun- 
 try. Among the prefents that were carried out for the Empe- 
 ror
 
 ^,2 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 lor were an apparatus for the air pump, various articles for 
 concluding a fet of experiments in eledricity, and tlie models 
 of a complete fet of mechanical powers placed upon a brafs pil- 
 lar. The Emperor, happening to caft his eye upon them, en- 
 quired of the eunuch in waiting for what they were intended. 
 This mutilated animal, although he had been daily ftudying the | 
 
 nature and ufe of the feveral prefents, in order to be able to fay 
 fomcthing upon them when they fhould be exhibited to his 
 mailer, could not fucceed in making his Imperial Majefty 
 comprehend the intention of the articles in queftion. " I 
 " fancy," fays the old monarch, " they are meant as play- 
 " things for fome of my great grandchildren." 
 
 The power of the pulley is underRood by them, and is ap- 
 plied on board all their large veflels, but always in a fingle 
 ftate ; at Icaft, I never obferved a block with more than one 
 wheel in it. The principle of the lever fhould alfo feem to be 
 well known, as all their valuable wares, even filver and gold, 
 are weighed with the fteelyard : and the tooth and pinion 
 wheels are ufed in the conftrudion of their felf-moving toys, 
 and in all their rice-mills that are put in motion by a water 
 wheel. But none of the mechanical powcis are applied on the 
 great fcale to facilitate and to expedite labour. Simplicity is the 
 leading feature in all their contrivances that relate to the arts 
 and manufadures. The tools of every artificer are of a con- 
 ftrudion the moft fimple that it (hould feem pofliblc to make 
 them, and yet each tool Is fo contrived as to anfvver feveral pur- 
 pofes. Thus, the bellows of the blackfmith, which is nothing 
 moi^ than a hollow cylinder of wood, with a valvular piflion, 
 
 befide
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 313 
 
 b^ fide] blowing the fire, Terves for his feat when fet on end, 
 and as a box to contain the reft of his tools. The barber's 
 bamboo baflcet, that contains his apparatus, is alfo the feat for 
 his cuftomers. The joiner makes ufe of his mle as a walking 
 flick, and the cheft that holds his tools ferves him as a bp nch 
 to work on. The pedlar's box and a large umbrella are fuf- 
 ficient for him to exhibit all his wares, and to form his little 
 fhop. 
 
 Little can be faid in favour of the ftate of the fine arts In this 
 country. Of their poetry, modern and ancient, I have given 
 a fpecimen ; but I think it right once more to obferve that, 
 with regard to Afiatic compofitions, Europeans cannot form a 
 proper judgment, and more efpecially of thofe of the Chinefe, 
 which, to the myfterious and obfcure expreflions of metaphor, 
 add the difadvantage of a language that fpeaks but little to the 
 ear ; a whole fentence, or a combination of ideas, being fome- 
 times fhut up in a fhort monofyllable, whofe beauties are moft 
 ftudioufly addrefled to the fenfe pf feeing alone. 
 
 Of the other two fifter arts, painting and mufic, a more de- 
 cided opinion may bepaffed. Of the latter I have little to ob- 
 ferve. It does not feem to be cultivated as a fcience : it Is neither 
 learned as an elegant accomplifhment, nor pradifed as an amufe- 
 ment of genteel life, except by thofe females who are educated 
 for fale, or by fuch as hire themfelves out for the entertainment 
 of thofe who may be inclined to purchafe their favours. And 
 as the Chinefe differ in their ideas from all other nations, thefe 
 
 s s women
 
 314 TRAVELS IN CHINA- 
 
 women play generally upon wind laftruments, fach as fmall 
 pipes and flutes ; whilfl the favourite inftrument of the men is 
 the guittar or fomething not very unlike it, feme of which have 
 two ftrinc;s, fome four, and others feven. Eunuchs, and the 
 low^eft clafs of perfons, are hired to play ; and the merit of a 
 performance fhould feem to confift in the intenfenefs of the noife 
 brought out of the different inftruments. The gong or, as they 
 call it, the loo is admirably adapted for this purpofe. This inftru- 
 ment is a fort of fhallow kettle, or rather the lid of a kettle, which 
 they ftrike with a wooden mallet covered with leather. The 
 compofition is faid to be copper, tin, and bifmuth. They have alfo 
 a kind of clarinet, three or four different forts of ti'umpets, and a 
 ftringed inftrument not unlike a violoncello. Their ^ng is a 
 combination of uneven reeds of bamboo, not unlike the pipe 
 of Pan ; the tones are far from being difagreeable, but its con- 
 ftrudtion is fo wild and irregular, that it does not appear to be 
 reducible to any kind of fcale. Their kettle drums are ge;. 
 nerally fhaped like barrels ; and thefe, as well as different-fized 
 bells fixed in a frame, conftitute parts in their facred mu- 
 fic. They have alfo an inftrument of mufic which confifts 
 of ftones, cut itito the fhape of a carpenter's fquare, each ftone 
 fufpended by the corner in a wooden frame. Thofe which I 
 faw appeared to belong to that fpecies of the filicious getius 
 ufually called Gneifs, k fort of flaty granite. In the Kefwick 
 mufeum are mufical ftones of the fame kind, which were picked 
 up in a rivulet at the foot of Skiddaw mountain ; but thefe feem 
 to contain fmall pieces of black fhorl or tourmaline. It is in- 
 deed the boaft of their hiftorians, that the whole empire of ha-^ 
 
 ture
 
 I
 
 ^^ 
 
 '"""nmi^m 
 
 . / .//«' a/ /v/^M^/i,/ _ y ^,^ ,./'M/Wc<a/, 
 
 
 / //le/ii/ 
 
 r 
 
 
 «"'«y«,r., ,'/■»'■'■'' 
 
 /.//.. 
 
 v^^y <>» 
 
 ^he^^A// /fi //<y < /•_/(■( 
 
 Oi/z/i/e^^'f . 
 
 rnf>f{fhr,t J/ft^r/r^JJfff
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 y..'<f- 
 
 '^ ^iiiti// /vift// ^' >irm 
 
 ' '/ //.in/ SJ """ ff-ir// e/i r^/ttrtrt/ ^ /fn-ilr . 
 
 A'M*>, />- ,<W\«-^ 
 
 "aJrtl ir Dn^-its S/ffUr/t .
 
 .» 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 ^
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 315 
 
 ture has been laid under contribution in order to complete their 
 fyftem of mufic : that the fkins of animals, the fibres of plants, 
 metals, ftones, and baked earths, have all been employed in 
 the produdion of founds. Their inftruments, it is true, are 
 fufficiently varied, both as to fhape and materials, but I know 
 of none that is even tolerable to an European ear. An Englifh 
 gentleman in Canton took fome pains to colled: the various in- 
 ftruments of the country, of which the annexed plate is a re- 
 prefentation, but his catalogue is not complete. 
 
 A Chinefe band generally plays, or endeavours to play, in 
 unifon, and fometimes an inftrument takes the odave ; but 
 they never attempt to play in feparate parts, confining their 
 art to the melody only, if I may venture to apply a name of fo 
 much fweetnefs to an aggregation of harfh founds. They have 
 not the leaft notion of counter-point, or playing in parts ; an 
 invention indeed to which the elegant Greeks had not arrived, 
 and which was unknown in Europe as well as Afia, until the 
 monkilh ages. 
 
 I never heard but one fingle Chinefe who could be faid to fing 
 with feeling or plaintivenefs. Accompanied with a kind of guittar, 
 he fung the following air in praife of the flower Moo-lee^ which 
 it feems is one of the rnoft popular fongs in the whole country. 
 The fimple melody was taken down by Mr. Hittner, and I 
 underftand has been publifhed in London, with head and tail- 
 pieces, accompaniments, and all the refined arts of European 
 mufic ; fo that it ceafes to be a fpecimen of the plain melody of 
 
 s s 2 China.
 
 3i6 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 China. I have therefore given It In its unadorned ftate, as fung 
 and played by the Chinefe, together with the words of the firft 
 ftanza, and their literal tranflation. 
 
 MOO-LEE-WHA. 
 
 : r ~T? 
 
 f.JL 
 
 '^ 
 
 i 
 
 P — ^' — P 
 
 g 
 
 UnUutaal 
 
 ^^ 
 
 y~F~ p 
 
 p 
 
 ■P — P — -zr-P 
 
 ■P- 
 
 ^ 
 
 P — rP — ^— ^ 
 
 ? 
 
 -*- 
 
 r.MZ 
 
 I 
 
 -*—*-*—&■ 
 
 ^m^ 
 
 i=f^ 
 
 ^^^n 
 
 ^s^i^3 
 
 MoO-LEE-WHA. 
 
 I. 
 
 I » 3 4 s 
 
 Hau ye- to fien wha^ 
 
 6 7 8 9 lo II II I? 
 
 Teu tchau yeu jie lo tjai go kla 
 14 15 16 17 18 19 
 Go pun tai, poo tchoo mun 
 
 xo XI IX x% X4 »S 
 
 'Tivee tcho Jien wha ul lo. 
 
 H.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 317 
 
 II. 
 
 1 a J 4 5 6 
 
 Hati ye to Moo-lee ivha 
 
 7 8 9 10 II iz 1} J4 
 
 Man yuen wha kai foy poo quee ta 
 15 16 17 18 19 20 
 Go pun tai tfai ye ta 
 
 21 21 23 24 s; 26 27 
 
 Tai you kung kan -wha jin ma. 
 
 , Literal Tranjlatlon. 
 
 I. 
 
 1.23 4- S 
 
 How delightful this branch of frefh flowers 
 
 6 7 89 »o 11 12 ij 
 
 One morning one day it was dropped in my houfc 
 
 14 15 16 17 'S '9 
 
 I the owner will wear it not out of doors 
 
 20 at 22 23 24 25 
 
 But I will hold the frefh flower and be happy. 
 
 II. 
 
 I ^ 23 456 
 
 How delightful this branch of the Moo-lee flower 
 
 789 10 II II 13 14 
 
 In the full plot of flowers blowing freely none excels it 
 
 15 16 17 19 18 20 
 
 I the owner will wear this gathered branch 
 
 21 22 23 2? 24 25 27 
 
 Wear it yet fear, the flower feen, men will envy. 
 
 I have thought it not amifs to fubjoin a few other airs of the 
 popular kind, which were written by the fame gentleman at 
 Canton, who made the drawings of their mufical inflruments. 
 
 I
 
 !«« 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 CHINESE POPULAR AIRS. 
 No. I. 
 
 grntr rfT^^^ is 
 
 s: 
 
 SI 
 
 « ^_i» 
 
 *^r^ 
 
 -^S^ 
 
 y ft ffe-fs-^ 
 
 p 
 
 i 
 
 ^^^-r-f- 
 
 WZltJL 
 
 fctJ 
 
 «— •-« 
 
 ■9— S- 
 
 ^Etpq pi ^^ii^ 
 
 i^i 
 
 e-*-«^ 
 
 i^^S^ 
 
 -"T p ^-^f -p^^^^ 
 
 fs— 
 
 ^^i 
 
 "I 
 
 51^ 
 
 EEE?^ 
 
 1 
 
 No. II. 
 
 -»- 
 
 ^ — t-^— F+-f-F 
 
 ^1 
 
 m 
 
 ft-Ti-S: 
 
 ».,..# 
 
 -^0- 
 
 at^zbzz 
 
 jg.i ^/ 
 
 fefi^^Si^^ii^i
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 3»9 
 
 p^ii^ i EJ^ g^ 
 
 ^-p— * 'p ~ I f -— p f p 
 
 ^^ r=a--:25=^^« ::>-C:-_=_ _L.._e:: 
 
 ^L^^^.X-i-4 — )^L.__^_i+__£j:_:j33:__. 
 
 ^ _, — F-7-r-^ w-r- -r^r-r f-^ - ' 
 
 g>_J_J-J r__j^J^____ — f_L:^._^4=t: 
 
 -y^Hjji— ^- 
 
 s 
 
 F=f^ 
 
 iHii^ 
 
 -a-f^ 
 
 No. III. 
 
 ^E^i^E^iHi^g^i^ 
 
 ■«-- 
 
 ^-?: 
 
 e^ 
 
 J- I 
 
 $a 
 
 s 
 
 c ■ — ^ 
 
 ■d— -^--rf 
 
 ^d 
 
 3 
 
 S 
 
 »rfc!=c 
 
 I 
 
 £--1 — p._-iz:s 
 
 ,._^, 
 
 :it 
 
 
 =F^ 
 
 3 
 
 S2ZM 
 
 -1— 
 
 4-d 
 
 
 ^ ^ "^-=i=b^=£=^-^i=i-i-j-i4-j-i--i-ur ^ 
 
 f=f=f^%t m 
 
 ^
 
 320 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 No. TV. 
 
 ppj^s^ij Elg ^^g^l^ 
 
 EEfi3E^ 
 
 -=* ' — ^ '"^l — ' — 1 ' 
 
 ^m 
 
 T=Fl 
 
 aziz^za 
 
 1 
 
 No. V. 
 
 «- 
 
 •s-^ 
 
 ^^^^^^ 
 
 ^^i^ 
 
 :^^^ 
 
 ^-^ 
 
 g ^ B fe^ 
 
 -F— F 
 
 H 
 
 No. VI. 
 
 
 § 
 
 ■— k J - 1 J^ 
 
 i
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 321 
 
 gflg ffii^ E^Eg^pP^ 
 
 ^S 
 
 '?>. 
 ^ 
 
 P 
 
 te 
 
 No. VII. 
 
 fJt—rrl 
 
 giiiiiS 
 
 r ("•(■ 
 
 P» 
 
 
 ^7 
 
 ,_^JR.j£^_- , 
 
 img^gM^^l^gp 
 
 ^_,^'*i 
 
 
 fe;^ 
 
 -j**^^ 
 
 ^1 
 
 No. VIll. 
 
 p ^fe 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
 azi 
 
 -p. 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 ■k±rJsii 
 
 
 ^^^mw^^^^^ 
 
 ^"i ^^=f=^ g^ 
 
 T T
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 No. IX. 
 
 :^Er.H£,t;S: = 3 
 
 i 
 
 ■■■!■ w III! n~ — 
 
 *. -fl. 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■"v- 
 
 E.-!^- — S~P 
 
 -^-x-^ 
 
 :^=^ 
 
 --tsr 
 
 ^ 
 
 gaEEBfB ^^ 
 
 They have no other notion of noting down mufic than that 
 of employing a character esprefling the name of every note in 
 the fcale ; and even this imperfecft way they learned from Pe- 
 reira the Jefuit. They affeded to dlflike the Emhafliidor's 
 band which they pretended to fay produced no mufic, but a 
 confufion of noifes ; yet the Emperor's chief mufician gave him- 
 felf a great deal of trouble in tracing out the feveral inftruments 
 on large fheets of paper, each of its particular fize, marking the 
 places of the holes, fcrews, firings, and other parts, which they 
 conceived neceflary to enable them to make others of a fimilar 
 conftru<Stion. 
 
 It would be difficult to affign the motive that Induced father 
 Amiot to obferve, that " the Chinefe, in order to obtain their 
 
 « fcale
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 323 
 
 " fcale of notes or gamut perfect, were not afraid of fubmittlng 
 " to the moft laborious operations of geometry, and to the moft 
 " tedious and difgufting calculations inthefciencc ofnumbers;" 
 as he muft have known, that they were altogether ignorant 
 of geometry, and that their arithmetic extended not be- 
 yond their Swan-pan. Of the fame nature is the bold and un- 
 founded alTertion of another of the Jefuits, " that the mufical 
 *' fyftem of the Chinefe was borrowed from them by the 
 " Greeks and Egyptians, anterior to the time of Hermes or 
 " Orpheus!" 
 
 With regard to painting, they can be confidered in no 
 other light than as miferable daubers, being unable to pen- 
 cil out a correct outline of many objeds, to give body to 
 the fame by the application of proper lights and ihadows, and 
 to lay on the nice fliades of colour, fo as to refemble the tints 
 of nature. But the gaudy colouring of certain flowers, birds, 
 and infedts, they imitate with a degree of exaftnefs and bril- 
 liancy to which Europeans have not yet arrived. To give 
 diftance to objeds on canvas, by diminifhing them, by f.\int 
 colouring, and by perfpedive, they have no fort of concep- 
 tion. At Yuen-min-yuen I found two very large paintings of 
 landfcapes which, as to the pencilling, were done with toler- 
 able execution, but they were finifhed with a minutenefs of 
 detail, and without any of thofe flrong lights and mafles of 
 fhade, which give force and effed to a pidure ; none of the 
 rules of perfpedive were obferved, nor any attempt to throw 
 the objeds to their proper diftances ; yet I could not help fancy- 
 ing that I difcovered in them the hand of an European. The 
 
 T T 2 old
 
 324 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 old cunuc'i, who carried the keys of the room, frequently 
 alked me, when looking at thefe pidurcs, if I did not think 
 his countrymen were excellent painters ; and having one day 
 exprelTed great admiration for the talents of the artift, he led 
 me into a recefs of the room, and opening a cheft, fupported 
 upon a pedeftaljhe obferved, with a fignificant look, he was now 
 going to produce fomething that would aftonifh me. He then 
 took out feveral large volumes, which were full of figures, 
 drawn in a very fuperior ftyle and tinted with water colours, 
 reprefenting the feveral trades and occupations carried on in the 
 country; but they feemed to be ftuck againft the paper, hav- 
 ing neither fhadow nor foreground, nor diftance, to give thera , 
 any relief. On the oppofite page to each figure was a defcrip- 
 tion, in the Mantchoo Tartar and the Chinefe languages. Hav- 
 ing turned over one of the volume?, I oblerved, on the lafl: page, 
 the name of Cojlaglione^ which at once folved the riddle. On 
 re-examining the large piiTlures ia the hall, I found the fame 
 name in the corner of each. While going through the volume, 
 the old eunuch frequently aflced, if any one ia Europe could 
 paint like the Chinefe ? but, on my pointing to the name, and 
 repeating the word CaJiagUone, he immediately fhut the book 
 and returned them all into the cheft, nor, from that time, could 
 I ever prevail upon him to let me have another fight of them. 
 On enquiry, I found that Caftaglione was a miffionary in great 
 repute at court, where he executed a number of paintings, but 
 was exprefsly diredled by the Emperor to paint all his fubjedis 
 after the Chinefe manner, and not like thofe of Europe, with 
 broad mafTes of fhade and the diftant objedts fcarcely vifible, 
 obferving to him, as one of the miffionaries told me, that the 
 
 imper-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 325 
 
 Imperfcdions of the eye aftbrded no rcafon why the objeds of 
 nature lliould alfo be copied as imperfe^ft. This idea of the 
 Emperor accords with a remark made by one of his minifters, 
 who came to fee the portrait of His Britannic Majefty, " that 
 " it was great pity it fhould have been fpoiled by the dirt upon 
 " the face," pointing, at the fame time, to the broad flaade of 
 the nofe. 
 
 Ghirrardini, an European painter, publillied an account of 
 his voyage to China, where, it appears, he was fo difgufted 
 that, having obferved how little idea they poifefs of the fine 
 arts, he adds, with rather more petulancy than truth, " thefe 
 " Chinefe are fit for nothing but weighing filver, and eating 
 " rice." Ghirrardini painted a large colonnade In vanilhing 
 perfpedtlve, which ftruck them fo very forcibly that they con- 
 cluded he muft certainly have dealings with the devil ; but, on 
 approaching the canvas and feeling with their hands, In order 
 to be fully convinced that all they faw was on- a flat furface, 
 they perfifted that nothing could be more unnatural than to re- 
 prefent diftances, where there adually neither was, nor could 
 be, any diftance. 
 
 It is fcarcely neceflary to add any thing further with regard 
 to the ftate of painting In China. I fhall only obferve, that the 
 Emperor's favourite draughtfman, who may of courfe be fup- 
 pofed as good or better than others of the fame profeffion in 
 the capital, was fent to make drawings of fome of the principal 
 prefents to carry to his mailer, then in Tartary, as elucidations 
 of the defcrlptive catalogue. This man, after various unfuc- 
 
 3 cefsful
 
 .5:6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ccfsfu! attcinins to defign the elegant [time-pieces of Vulliamy, 
 iiipported by beautiful figures of white marble, fupplicated my 
 a/Tiftancel!! a matter which he reprefented as of the Lift impor- 
 tance to himfelf. It was in vain to aflure him that I was no 
 draughtfman ; he was determined to have the proof of it ; and 
 he departed extremely well fatisfied in obtaining a very mean 
 performance with the pencil, to copy after or cover with his 
 China ink. Every part of the machines, except the naked 
 figures which fupported the time-piece and a barometer, he 
 drew with neatnefs and accuracy, but all his attempts to copy 
 thefe were unfuccefsful. Whether it was owing to any real 
 difficulty that exifts in the nice turns and proportions of the hu- 
 man figure, or that by being better acquainted with it v,'Q more 
 readily perceive the defeds in the imitation of it, or from the 
 circumftance of the human form being concealed in this coun- 
 try in loofe folding robes, that caufed the Chinefe draughtf- 
 man fo completely to fail, I leave to the ariifts of our own coun- 
 try to determine: but the fa£l was as I ftate it ; all his attempts 
 to draw thefe figures were prepofterous. 
 
 As to thofe fpecimens of beautiful flowers, birds, and infects, 
 fometimes brought over to Europe, they are the work of ar- 
 tills at Canton where, from being in the habit of copying 
 prints and drawings, carried thither for the purpofe of being 
 transferred to porcelain, or as articles of commerce, they have 
 acquired a better tafte than in the Interior parts of the country. 
 Great quantities of porcelain are fent from the potteries to Can- 
 ton perfectly white, that the purchafer may have them painted 
 to his own pattern : and fpecimens of thefe bear teftimony that 
 
 they
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 327 
 
 they are no mean copyifts. It has been obferved, however, that 
 the fabjedts of natural hiftory, painted by them, are frequently 
 incorreQ ; that it is no unufual thing to meet with the flower of 
 one plant fet upon the ftalk of another, and having the leaves of 
 a third. This may formerly have been the cafe, from their fol- 
 lowing imperfect patterns, or from fuppofing they could improve 
 nature; but having found that thereprefentations of natural ob- 
 jects are in more requeft among foreigners, they pay a 
 ftrider attention to the fubjedl that may be required ; and we 
 found them indeed fuch fcrupulous copyifts, as not only to draw 
 the exa£t number of the petals, the ftamina, and piftilla of a 
 flower, but alfo the very number of leaves, with the thorns or 
 fpots on the foot-ft:alk that fupported it. They will even count 
 the number of fcales on a fifti, and mark them out in their repre- 
 fentations, and it is impoflible to imitate the brilliant colours of 
 nature more clofely. I brought home feveral drawings of 
 plants, birds, and infe£ls, that have been greatly admired for 
 their accuracy and clofe colouring ; but they want that efFcvl 
 which the proper application or light and fhade never fiiils to 
 produce. The coloured prints of Europe that arc carried out 
 to Canton are copied there with wonderful fidelity. But in 
 doing this, they exercife no judgment of their own. Every de- 
 fe£l and blemifli, original or accidental, they are fure to copy, 
 being mere fervile imitators, and not in the leaft feeling the 
 force or the beauty of any fpecimen of the arts that may come 
 before them ; for the fame perfon who is one day employed in 
 copying a beautiful European print, will fit down the next to a 
 Chinefe drawing replete with abfurdity. 
 
 Whatever 
 
 « 
 %
 
 32iJ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Whatever may be tlie progrefs of the arts in the port of 
 Canton, they are not Hkely to CKperience much improvement 
 in the interior parts of the country, or in the capital. It was 
 the pride rather of the monarch, and of his minifters, that 
 made them rejecl the propofal of Caftaglione to eflablifh a 
 fchool for the arts, than the apprehenfion, as rtated by the mif- 
 fionaries, that the rage for painting would become fo general, as 
 to be prejudicial to ufeful labour. 
 
 In a country where painting is at fo low an ebb, it would be 
 in vain to expedt much execution from the chiflel. Grotefqne 
 images of ideal beings, and monftrous diftortions of nature, are 
 fometimes feen upon the balluftrades of bridges, and in their 
 temples, where the niches are filled with gigantic gods of baked 
 clay, fometimes painted with gaudy colours, and fometimes 
 plaftered over with gold leaf, or covered with a coat of varnilh. 
 They are as little able to model as to draw the human figure 
 with any degree of corrednefs. In the whole empire there is 
 not a ftatue, a hewn pillar, or a column that deferves to be 
 mentioned. Large four-fided blocks of ftone or wood are fre- 
 quently erected near the gates of cities, with infcriptions upon 
 them, meant to perpetuate the memory of certain diftinguilhed 
 characters; but they are neither objedls of grandeur nor orna- 
 ment, having a much clofer refemblance to a gallows than to 
 triumphal arches, as the miflionaries, for what reafon I know 
 not, have thought fit to call them. 
 
 The intention of thefe monumental ere£tions will appear 
 from fome of their infcriptions. 
 
 I. Honour
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 329 
 
 I. 
 
 Honour granted by the Emperor. 
 
 The grateful odour of one hundred years. 
 
 Retirement. Tranquillity. 
 
 II. 
 
 Emperor s order. 
 
 Peace and Happincfs, 
 
 The balm of Lfe. 
 
 On a fortunate day^ in the Sth month of the $oth year of the 
 
 reign ofKien-Longy this monument was ere&ed by the 
 
 Emperor sorder^ in honour of Liang-tien-pe y aged 
 
 102 years. 
 
 The two following are infcriptlons on monuments that have 
 been ere(fled to chafte women, a defcription of ladies whom 
 the Chinefe confider to be rarely met with. 
 
 III. 
 
 Hotiour granted by the Emperor. 
 Icy coldnefs. Hardfrojl. 
 
 IV. 
 
 The Emperor s order. 
 
 The fweet fragrance of piety and virginity. 
 
 Sublime chaflity. Pure morals. 
 
 u u 
 
 The
 
 3JO TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 The whole of their architedure, indeed, is as unfightly 
 as unfolid ; without elegance or convenience of defign, and 
 without any fettled proportion ; mean in its appearance^ 
 and clumfey in the workmanfliip. Their pagodas of five, 
 feven, and nine rounds, or roofs, are the moft ftriking ob- 
 je£ts ; but though they appear to be the imitations or,'' per- 
 haps, more properly fpeaking, the models of a fimilar kind 
 of pyramids found in India, they are neither fo well de- 
 figned, nor fo well executed : they are, in fadt, fo very ill con- 
 
 ftrudted that half of them, without any marks of antiquity, ap- 
 pear in ruins ; of thefe ufelefs and whimfical edifices His Ma- 
 jefiiy's garden at Kew exhibits a fpecimen, which is not inferior 
 in any refpe£l to the very beft I have met with in China. The - 
 height of fuch ftrudlures, and the badnefs of the materials with 
 which they are ufually built, contradict the notion that they 
 affign as a reafon for the lownefs of their houfes, which is, that 
 they may efcape being thrown down by earthquakes. In fadt, 
 the tent ftands confefl!ed in all their dwellings, of which the 
 curved roof and the wooden pillars (in imitation of the poles) 
 forming a colonnade round the ill-built brick walls, clearly de- 
 note the origin ; and from this original form they have never 
 ventured to deviate. Their temples are moftly conftrufted 
 upon the fame plan, with the addition of a fecond, and fome- 
 times a third roof, one above the other. The wooden pillars. 
 that conftltute the colonnade are generally of larch fir, of no 
 fettled proportion between the length and the diameter, and 
 they are invariably painted red and fometimes covered with a 
 coat of varnilh.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 331 
 
 As cuftom and faflnlon are not the fame in any two countries, 
 it has been contended by many that there can be no fuch thing 
 as true tafte. The advocates for tafte arifing out of cuftom will 
 fay, that no folid reafon can be offered why the pillar which 
 fupports ihe Doric capital fliould be two diameters fhorter than 
 that which fuftains the Corinthian ; and that it is the habit only 
 of feeing them thus conftruded that conftitutes their propriety. 
 Though the refpedlive beauties of thefe particular columns may, 
 in part, be felt from the habit of obferving them always retaining 
 a fettled proportion, yet it muft be allowed that, in the moft 
 perfcdl works of nature, there appears a certain harmony and 
 agreement of one part with another, that without any fettled 
 proportion feldom fail to pleafe. Few people will difagree 
 in their ideas of a handfome tree, or an elegant flower, though 
 there be no fixed proportion between the trunk and the branches, 
 the flower and the foot-ftalk. Proportion, therefore, alone, is 
 not fufhcient to conftitute beauty. There muft be no ftiffnefs, 
 no fudden breaking oft" from a ftraight line to a curve ; but the 
 changes fliould be eafy, not vifible in any particular part, but 
 running imperceptibly through the whole. Utility has alfo 
 been confidared as one of the conftituent parts of beauty. In 
 the Chinefe column, labouring under an enormous mafs of 
 roof, without either bafe or capital, there is neither fymmetry 
 of parts, nor eafe, nor particular utility. Nor have the large 
 ill-fhapen and unnatural figures of lions, dragons, and ferpents, 
 grinning on the tops and corners of the roofs, any higher pre- 
 tenfions to good tafte, to utility, or to beauty. 
 
 u u 2 " The
 
 2;^! TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " The architediure of the Chinefe," fays one of their enco- 
 miafts, " though it bears no relation to that of Europe ; though 
 " it has borrowed nothing from that of the Greeks, has a cer- 
 *' tain beauty peculiar to itfelf." It is indeed peculiar to itfelf, 
 and the miffionaries may be aflured they are the only perfons who 
 will ever difcover " real palaces in the manfions of the Em- 
 " peror," or to whom, " iheir imrnenfity, fymmetry, and 
 *♦ magnificence, will announce the grandeur of the matter who 
 *' inhabits them." 
 
 The houfe of a prince, or a great officer of ftate, in the capital, 
 is not much diftinguifhed from that of a tradefman, except by the 
 greater fpace of ground on which it ftands, and by being fur- 
 rounded by a high wall. Our lodgings in Pekin were in a 
 houfe of this defcription. The ground plot was four hundred 
 by three hundred feet, and it was laid out into ten or twelve 
 courts, fome having two, fome three, and others four, tent- 
 fhaped houfcs, ftanding on ftone terraces raifed about three 
 feet above the court, which was paved with tiles. Galleries of 
 communication, forming colonnades of red wooden pillars, 
 were carried from each building and from one court to an- 
 other, fo that every part of the houfe might be vifited without 
 expofure to the fun or the rain. The number of wooden pil- 
 lars of which the colonnades were formed was about 900. Moft 
 of the rooms were open to the rafters of the roof; but fome 
 had a flight ceiling of bamboo laths covered with plafter ; and 
 the ladies apartments confifted of two ftories; the upper however 
 had no light, and was not fo good as our common attics. The 
 floors were laid with bricks or clay. The windows had no 
 
 glafs ;
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 333 
 
 glafs ; oiled paper, or filk gauze, or pearl fliell, or horn, were 
 ufed as fubftitutes for this article. In the corners of fome of 
 the rooms were holes in the ground, covered over with ftones 
 or wood, intended for fire-places, from whence the heat is 
 conveyed, as in the houfes of ancient Rome, through flues in 
 the floor, or in the walls, the latter of which are generally- 
 whitened with lime made from fhells and imported from the 
 fea coafl:. One room was pointed out to us as the theatre. The 
 ftage was in the middle, and a fort of gallery was ereded in 
 front of it. A flone room was built in the midft of a piece of 
 water, in imitation of a paflage yacht, and one of the coarts 
 was roughened with rocks, with points and precipices and 
 excavations, as a reprefentation of nature in miniature. On 
 the ledges of thefe were meant to be placed their favourite 
 flowers and ftunted trees, for which they are famous. 
 
 There is not a water-clofet, nor a decent place of retirement 
 in all China. Sometimes a ftick is placed over a hole in a cor- 
 ner, but in general they make ufe of large earthen jars with 
 narrow tops. In the great houfe we occupied was a walled 
 inclofure, with a row of fmall fquare holes of brickwork funk 
 in the ground. 
 
 Next to the pagodas, the moft confpicuous objects are the 
 gates of cities. Thefe are generally fquare buildings, carried 
 feveral ftories above the arched gateway and, like the temples, are 
 covered with one or more large projedting roofs. But the moft 
 ftupendous work of this country is the great wall that divides 
 It from northern Tartary. It is built exactly upon the fame 
 plan as the wall of Pekin, being a mound of earth cafed on 
 
 each
 
 J34 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 each fide with bricks or ftone. The aftonidiing magnitude of 
 the fabrick coniills not fo much in the plan of the work, as in 
 the immenfe diftance of fifteen hundred miles over which it 
 is extended, over mountains of two and three thoufand feet in 
 height, acrofs deep vallies and rivers. But the elevations, plans, 
 and ledlions of this wall and its towers have been taken with 
 fuch truth and accuracy by the late Captain Parifh, of the Royal 
 Artillery, that all further defcription would be fuperfluous. 
 They are to be found in Sir George Staunton's valuable account 
 -cf the embafly to China. 
 
 The fame Emperor, who Is faid to have committed tlie bar- 
 barous a£l of deftroying the works of the learned, railed this 
 ftupendous fabric, which has no parallel in the whole world, 
 not even in the pyramids of Egypt, the magnitude of the largefl: 
 of thefe containing only a very fmall portion of the quantity of 
 matter comprehended in the great wall ot China. This indeed 
 is fo enormous, that admitting, what I believe has never been 
 denied, its length to be fifteen hundred miles, and the dimen- 
 fions throughout pretty much the fame as where it was croffed 
 by the Brltlfh Embafly, the materials of all the dwelling-houfes 
 of England and Scotland, fuppofing them to amount to one 
 million eight hundred thoufand, and to average on the whole 
 two thoufand cubic feet of mafonry or brick-worJc, are barely 
 equivalent to the bulk or folid contents of the great wall of 
 China. Nor are the projeding maify towers of ftone and brick 
 included in this calculation. Thefe alone, fuppofing them to 
 continue throughout at bow-£hot diftance, were calculated to 
 contain as much mafonry and brickwoik as all London. To 
 
 I give
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 335 
 
 give another idea of the mafs of matter in this ftupendous fabric, 
 it may be obferved, that it is more than fufficient to furround 
 the circumference of the earth on two of its great circles 
 with two walls, each fix feet high and two feet thick ! It is to 
 be underftood, however, that in this calculation is included the 
 earthy part in the middle of the wall. 
 
 Turning from an obje£t, which the great Dodor Johnfon 
 was of opinion would bean honour to any one to fay that his 
 grandfather had feen, another prefents itfelf fcarcely inferior in 
 point of grandeur, and greatly excelling it in general utility. 
 This is what has ufually been called the imperial or grand canal, 
 an inland navigation of fuch extent and magnitude as to ftand 
 imrivalled in the hiftory of the world. I may fafely fay that, 
 in point of magnitude, our moft extenfive inland navigation of 
 England can no more be compared to the grand trunk that 
 interfe'£ts China, than a park or garden filh-pond to the great 
 lake of Winandermere. The Chinefe afcribe an antiquity to 
 this work higher by many centuries than to that of the great 
 wall ; but the Tartars pretend it was firft opened in the thir- 
 teenth century under the Mongul government. The probabi^ 
 lity is, that an effeminate and Ihameful adminiftration had fuf- 
 fered it to fall into decay, and that the more adtive Tartars 
 caufed it to undergo a thorough repair : at prefent it exhibits no 
 appearances of great antiquity. The bridges, the ftone piers of 
 the flood-gates, the quays, and the retaining walls of the earthen 
 embankments are comparatively new. Whether it has origi- 
 nally been conftruded by Chinefe or Tartars, the conceptioa 
 of fuch an undertaking, and the manner in wliich it is executed, 
 
 imply
 
 336 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 imply a degree of fcience and ingenuity beyond what I fufpeft 
 we rhould now find in the country, either in one or the other 
 of thefe people. The general furface of the country and other 
 favourable circumftances have contributed very materially to 
 affifl: the projector, but a great deal of fkill and management, as 
 well as of immenfc labour, are confpicuous throughout the 
 whole work. 
 
 I fhal) endeavour to convey, in a few words, a general idea of 
 the principles on which this grand undertaking has been carried 
 on. All the rivers of note in China fall from the high lands of 
 Tartary, which lie to the northward of Thibet, croffing the 
 plains of this empire in their defcent to the fea from weft to 
 eaft. The inland navigation being carried from north to fouth 
 cuts thefe rivers at right angles, the fmaller ftreams of which 
 terminating in it afford a conftant fupply of water ; and the 
 three great rivers, the Eu-ho to the north, the Tellow river to- 
 wards the middle, and the Yang-tfe-kiang to the fouth, inter- 
 fedlng the canal, carry off the fuperfluous water to the fea. 
 The former, therefore, are x.h.e feeders, and the latter the dif- 
 chargers, of the great trunk of the canal. A number of diffi- 
 culties muft have arifen in accommodating the general level of the 
 canal to the feveral levels of the feeding ftreams ; for notwith- 
 ftanding all the favourable circumftances of the face of the 
 country, it has been found necefl'ary in many places to cut 
 down to the depth of fixty or feventy feet below the furface ; and, 
 in others, to laife mounds of earth upon lakes and fwamps and 
 marfhy grounds, of fuch a length and magnitude that nothing 
 fliort of the abfolute command over multitudes could have ac- 
 
 complilhed
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 337 
 
 compliflied an undertaking, whofe immenfity is only exceeded 
 by the great wall. Thefe gigantic embankments are fome- 
 times carried through lakes of feveral miles in diameter, be- 
 tween which the water is forced up to a height confiderably 
 above that of the lake ; and in fuch iituations we fometiines ob- 
 ferved this enormnus aqueducSl gliding along at the rate of three 
 miles an hour. Few parts of It are level : in fome places it has 
 little or no current ; one day we had it fetting to the fouthward at 
 the rate of one, two, or three miles an hour, the next to the north- 
 ward, and frequently on the fame day we found it ftationary, 
 and running in oppofite directions. This balancing of the level 
 was effeded by flood-gates thrown acrofs at certain diftances to 
 elevate or deprefs the height of the water a few inches, as might 
 appear to be neceflary ; and thefe ftoppages are fimply planks 
 Aiding in grooves, that are cut into the fides of two ftone abut- 
 ments, which in thefe places contradt the canal to the width of 
 about thirty feet. There is not a lock nor, except thefe, a fingle 
 interruption to a continued navigation of fix hundred miles. 
 
 The moft remarkable parts of this extraordinary work will 
 be noticed in a following chapter, defcriptivc of our journey 
 through the empire. 
 
 Over this main trunk, and moft of the other 'canals and rivers, 
 are a great variety of bridges, fome with arches that are pointed 
 not unlike the gothic, fome femicircular, and others fhaped like a 
 horfe-fhoe : fome have the piers of fuch an extraordinary height 
 that the largeft veflels, of two hundred tons, fail under them 
 without ftriking their mafts. Some of their bridges, of three, 
 
 X X five,
 
 33? TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 five, and feven arches *, that crofs the canal, are extremely- 
 light and beautiful to the eye, but the plan on which they are 
 ufually conftruded does not imply much ftrength. Each 
 ftone, from five to ten feet in length, is cut fo as to form a feg- 
 ment of the arch, and as, in fuch cafes, there is no key-ftone, 
 ribs of wood fitted to the convexity of the arch are bolted 
 through the ftones by iron bars, fixed faft into the folid parts of 
 the bridge. Sometimes, however, they are without wood, and 
 the curved ftones are morticed into long tranfverfe blocks of.' 
 ftone, as in the annexed plate, which was drawa with great 
 accuracy by Mr. Alexander. 
 
 In this Plate, 
 
 No. 1. Are ftones cut to the curve of the arch lo feet long, 
 
 2. An immenfe ftone, 2 feet fquare, of the whole 
 
 depth of the arch. 
 
 3. Curved ftones, 7 feet long, 
 
 4. Ditto, 5 feet. 
 
 5. Ditto,, 37 feet. 
 
 6. Ditto, 3 feet. 
 
 7. Ditto, 3 feet. 
 
 8.8. Stones fimilar to No. 2. being each one entire 
 piece running through the bridge, and intended, 
 it would feem, to bind the fabric together as the 
 pillars 9.9. are morticed into them. 
 
 Tliere are, however, other arches wherein the ftones are fmaller 
 and pointed to a centre as in ours. I have underftood from 
 
 • A bridge with, ninety one arches will be noticed in a fubfequeat chapter. 
 
 the
 
 ■■•nrr ■' "''imi.gm 
 
 ,t«p>ifjjj^ 
 
 MM 
 
 k=( 
 
 
 N 
 
 V 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 Ic 
 
 
 d ^ 
 
 V
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 3^9 
 
 the late Captain Parifh, that no mafonry could be fuperlor to 
 that of the great wall, and that all the arched and vaulted work 
 in the old towers was exceedingly well turned. This being 
 the cafe, we may probably be not far amifs in allowing the 
 Chinefe to have employed this ufeful and ornamental part of 
 architecture before it was known to the Greeks and the Romans, 
 Neither the Egyptians nor the Perfians appear at any time to 
 have applied it in their buildings. The ruins of Thebes and 
 of Perfepolis have no arches, nor have thofe cf Balbec and 
 Palmyra ; nor do they feem to have been much ufed in the 
 magnificent buildings of the Romans antecedent to the time of 
 Auguftus. The grand and elegant columns of all thefe nations 
 v%'ere connedled by ftraight architraves of ftone, of dimenfions 
 not inferior to the columns themfelves. In the Hindoo excava-!' 
 tions are arches cut out of the folid mountain ; but when loofc 
 ftones were employed, and a building was intended to be fuper- 
 ftru£led on columns, the ftones above the capitals were overlaid 
 like inverted fteps, till they met in a point in the middle above 
 the two columns, appearing at a little diftance exadlly like the 
 gothic arch, of which this might have given the firft idea. If 
 then the antiquity be admitted which the Chinefe afcribe to 
 the building of the great wall, and no reafon but a negative one, 
 the filence of Marco Polo, has been offered againft it (an ob- 
 jeftioii eafily refuted), they have a claim to the invention of tlie 
 arch founded on no unfolid grounds. 
 
 The cemeteries, or repofitories of the dead, exhibit a much 
 -greater variety of monumental architeiture than the dwellings 
 of the Irving can boaft of. Some indeed depofit the remains of 
 
 X.X 2 their
 
 340 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 their anceftois in hoiifes that differ in nothing from thofe they 
 inhabited while living, except in their diminutive fize ; others 
 prefer a fquare vault, ornamented in fuch a manner as fancy may 
 fuggeft ; fome make choice of a hexagon to cover the deceafed, 
 and others of an odagon. The round, the triangular, the fquare, 
 and multangular column, is indifferently raifed over the grave 
 of a Chinefe j but the moft common form of a monument to 
 the remains of perfons of rank confifts in three terraces, one 
 above another, inclofed by circular walls. The door or en- 
 trance of the vault is in the centre of the uppermoft terrace, 
 covered with an appropriate infcription ; and figures of flaves 
 and horfes and cattle, with other creatures that, when living, 
 were fubfervient to them and added lo their pleafures, are em- 
 ployed after their death to decorate the terraces of their 
 tombs. 
 
 " Quar gratia currutn 
 " Armorumque fuit vivis, qux cura nitentes 
 " Pafcere equos, eadem fequitur ceilure repoftos." 
 
 Virgil, ^neib vi, 
 
 " Thofe pleaflng cares the heroes fek, alive, 
 
 " For chariots, fteeds, and arms, in death furvlve." Pitt. 
 
 It may be confidered as fuperfluous, af er what has been faid, 
 to obferve, that no branch of natural philofophy is made a 
 ftudy, or a purfuit in China. The pradical application of 
 fome of the moft obvious effeds produced by natural caufes 
 could not efcape the obfcrvation of a people who had, at an 
 early period, attained fo high a degree of civilization, but, fatif- 
 fied with the pradical part, they pu(hed their enquiries no far- 
 ther. Of pneumatics, hydroftatics, eledricity, and magnetifm, 
 
 they
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA." 341 
 
 they may be faid to have little or no knowledge ; and their 
 optics extend not beyond the making of convex and concave 
 lenfesof rock cryftal to affift the fight in magnifying, or throw- 
 ing more rays upon, fmall objeds and, by colleding to a focus 
 the rays of the fun, to fet fire to combuftible fubftances. Thefe 
 lenfes are cut with a faw and afterwards polifhed, the powder 
 of cryftal being ufed in both operations. To polifh diamonds 
 they make ufe of the powder of adamantine fpar, or the corun- 
 dum ftone. In cutting different kinds of ftone into groups of 
 figures, houfes, mountains, and fometimes into whole land- 
 fcapes, they difcover more of perfevering labour, of a determi- 
 nation to fubdue difficulties, which were not worth the fubdu- 
 ing, than real ingenuity. Among the many remarkable in- 
 ftances of this kind of labour, there is one in the pofleffion of 
 the Right Honourable Charles Greville, that deferves to be 
 noticed. It is a group of well formed, excavated, and highly 
 ornamented bottles, covered with foliage and figures, raifed in 
 the manner of the antique Cameos^ with moveable ring-handles, 
 Handing on a bafe or pedeftal, the whole cut out of one folid 
 block of clear rock cryftal. Yet this laborious trifle was pro- 
 bably fold for a few dollars in China. It was bought in Lon- 
 don for about thirty pounds, where it could not have been 
 made for many times that fum, if, indeed, it could have been 
 made at all. All their fpedacles that I have feen were cryftal 
 fet in horn, tortoife-fhell, or ivory. The fingle microfcope is 
 in common ufe, but they have never hit upon the effedt of ap- 
 proximating objeas by combining two or more lenfes, a difco- 
 very indeed to which in Europe we are more indebted to chance 
 than to the refull of fcientific enquiry. I obferv^d at Tuen-mhi- 
 
 3 yuen
 
 342 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 yuen a rude kind of magic lantern, and a camera obfcura, 
 neither of which, although evidently of Chinefe vvorkmanfhip, 
 appeared to wear the marks of a national invention. I fliould 
 rather conclude, that they were part of thofe ftriking and curious 
 experiments which the early Jefuits difplayed at court, in order 
 to aftonifh the Emperor with their profound {kill, and raife 
 their reputation as men of learning. Of the ombres Chinoifes 
 they may, perhaps, claim the invention, and in pyrotechny 
 their ingenuity may be reckoned much fuperior to any thing 
 which has hitherto been exhibited in that art in Europe. 
 
 A convex lens is among the ufual appendages to the tobacco 
 pipe- With thefe they are in the daily habit of lighting their 
 pipes. Hence the great burning lens made by Mr. Parker of 
 Fleet-Street, and carried out among the prefents for the En:>- 
 peror, was an objecSt that excited no admiration in the minds of 
 the Chinefe. The difficulty of making a lens of fuch magni- 
 tude perfedl, or free from flaw, and its extraordinary powers 
 could net be underftood, and confequently not appreciated by 
 them : and although in the fhort fpace of four feconds it com- 
 pletely melted down one of their bafe copper coins, when the 
 fun was -more than forty degrees beyond the meridian, it made 
 no impreflion of furprize on their uninformed minds. The 
 only enquiry they made about it was, whether the fubftance 
 was cryftal ; but being informed it was glafs, they turned away 
 with a fort of difdain, as if they would fay. Is a lump of glafs a 
 proper prefent to offer to our great Whang-tee f The prime mi- 
 nifler, Ho-tchiing-tong^ in order to convince us how very fami- 
 liar articles of fuch a nature were to him, lighted his pipe very 
 
 compofedly
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 343 
 
 compofedly at the focus, but had a narrow efcape from fingeing 
 his fattin fleeve, which would certainly have happened had I 
 not given him a fudden pu(h. He feemed, however, to be in- 
 fenfible of his danger, and walked off without the leaft con- 
 cern. 
 
 Indeed, in feleding the many valuable prefents relating to 
 fcience, their knowledge and learning had been greatly over- 
 rated. They had little efteem for what they could not com- 
 prehend, and fpecimens of art ferved only to excite their jea- 
 loufy, and to wound their pride. Whenever a future embafly 
 fhall be fent to Pekin, I fhould recommend articles of gold, 
 filver, and fteel, children's toys and trinkets, and perhaps a 
 few fpecimens of Derbyfhire fpar, with the fined broad-cloth 
 and kerfeymeres, in preference to all others ; for in their pre- 
 fent ftate, they are totally incapable of appreciating any thing 
 great or excellent in. the arts and fciences. 
 
 To alleviate the afflictions of mankind, and to afluage the 
 pains which tlie human frame is liable to fufFer, muft have 
 been among the earlieft fludies of civilized fociety ; and accord^ 
 ingly, in the hiftory of ancient kingdoms, we find the pratfti- 
 tioners of the healing art regarded even to adoration. Chi- 
 ron, the preceptor of Achilles, and the mafter of iEfculapius, 
 was transferred to the heavens, where he ftill fliines under the 
 name of Sagittarius. Among thefe nations, indeed, which we 
 call favage, there is ufually fhewn a more than ordinary refpe<£i 
 for fuch of their countrymen as are moft fkilled in removing 
 obftrudions, allaying tumors, healing bruifes, and, generally 
 
 fp caking.
 
 3S^4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ipeaking, who can apply relief to mlfery. But the Chinefc, 
 who feem to difier hi their opinions from all the reft of man- 
 kind, whether civilized or favage, pay little refpe£l to the 
 therapeutick art. They have eflabliflied no public fchools for 
 the ftudy of medicine, nor does the purfuit of it lead to honours, 
 rank, or fortune. Such as take up the profeffion are generally 
 of an inferior clafs j and tlie eunuchs about the palace are con- 
 fidered among their beft phyficians. According to their own 
 account, the books on medicine cfcaped the fire, by which they 
 pretend the vrorks of learning were confumed, in the reign of 
 Shee-whang-teCy two hundred years before the Chriftian era ; 
 and yet the beft of their medical books of the prefent day are 
 little better than mere herbals, fpecifying the names and enu- 
 merating the qualities of certain plants. The knowledge of 
 thefe plants and of their fuppofed virtues goes a great way towards 
 conftituting a phyfician. Thofe moft commonly employed are 
 gin-fing, rhubarb, and China-root. A few preparations are 
 alfo found in their pharmacopoeia from the animal and the mi- 
 neral kingdoms. In the former they employ fnakes, beetle?, 
 centipedes, and the aurelise of the filk worm and other infedls ; 
 the meloe and the bee are ufed for blifters. In the latter, falt- 
 petre, fulphur, native cinnabar, and a few other articles are 
 occafionally prefcribed. Opium is taken as a medicine, but 
 more generally as a cordial to exhilarate the fpirits. Though the 
 importation of this drug is ftridly prohibited, yet, as I have 
 before obferved, vaft quantities are annually fmuggled into the 
 country from Bengal and from Europe, through the connivance 
 of the cuftom-houfe officers. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 345 
 
 The phyfiology of the human body, or the dodrlne which 
 explains the conftitution of man, is neither* underftood, nor 
 confidered as neceflary to be known ; and their fkill in patho- 
 logy, or in the caufes and effects of dil'eafes, is extremely li- 
 mited, very often abfurd, and generally erroneous. The feat 
 of mod difeafes are, in fa£t, fuppofed to be difcoverable by 
 feeling the pulfe, agreeably to a fyftem built upon principles 
 the mod wild and extravagant. Having no knowledge what- 
 foever of the circulation of the blood, notwithftanding the Je- 
 fults have made no fcruple in aflerting it was well known to 
 them long before Europeans had any idea of it, they imagine, 
 that every particular part of the human body has a particular 
 pulfe affigned to it, and that thefe have all a corrcfponding and 
 fympathetic pulfe in the arm ; thus, they fuppofe one pulfe to 
 be fituated in the heart, another in the lungs, a third in the 
 kidneys, and fo forth ; and the fkill of the do£tor confifts in dif- 
 covering the prevailing pulfe in the body, by its fympathetic pul- 
 fations In the arm ; and the mummery made ufeof on fuchocca- 
 fions is highly ludicrous. 
 
 By eating too freely of unripe fruit at Chu-fan I had a vio- 
 lent attack of cholera morbus^ and on application being made to 
 the governor for a little opium and rhubarb, he immediately 
 difpatched to me one of his phyficians. With a countenance 
 as grave and a folemnity as fettled, as ever was exhibited in a 
 confultation over a doubtful cafe in London or Edinburgh, he 
 fixed his eyes upon the ceiling, while he held my hand, be- 
 ginning at the wrift, and proceeding towards the bending of 
 
 Y y the
 
 346 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the elbow, prefung foinetimes hard with one finger, and then 
 light with another, as if he was running over the keys of a 
 harpficord. This performance continued about ten minutes in 
 folemn filence, after which he let go my hand and pronounced 
 my complaint to have arifen from eating fomething that had 
 difagreed with the ftomach. I fhall not take upon me to de- 
 cide whether this conclufion was drawn from his flcill in the 
 pulfe, or from a conjedture of the nature of the complaint 
 from the medicines that had been demanded, and which met. 
 ■with his entire approbation, or from a knowledge of the fad. 
 
 Le Compte, who had lefs reafon to be cautious, from his 
 having left the country, than other miffionaries who are doomed 
 to remain there for life, pofitively fays, that the phyficians al- 
 ways endeavour to make themfelves fecretly acquainted with 
 the cafe of the patient, before they pronounce upon it, as their 
 reputation depends more on their affigning the true caufe of the 
 diforder than on the cure. He then proceeds to tell a ftory of 
 a friend of his who, being troubled with a fwelling, fent for a 
 Chinefe phyfician. This gentleman told him very gravely, 
 that it was occafioned by a fmall worm which, unlefs extracted 
 by his {kill, would ultimately produce gangrene and certain 
 death. Accordingly one day after the tumour, by the applica- 
 tion of a few poultices, was getting better, the doilor contrived 
 to drop upon the removed poultice a little maggot, for the ex- 
 tradlioQ of which he affumed to himfelf no fmall degree of 
 merit. Le Compte's ftories, however, are not always to be 
 depeaded on* 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 347 
 
 The prlefts are alfo a kind of dodors, and make plaifters for 
 a variety of purpofes, fome to draw out the difcafe to the part 
 appHed, fome as charms againft the evil fpirit, and others 
 which they pretend to be aphrodifiac ; all of which, and 
 the laft in particular, are in great demand among the wealthy'. 
 In this refpedt the Chinefe agree with mofl nations of antk 
 quity, whofe priefts were generally employed as phyficians. 
 The number of quacks and venders of noftrums is immenfe in 
 every city who gain a livelihood by the credulity of the 
 multitude. One of this defcription exhibited in the public 
 ftreets of Canton a powder for fale as a fpecific for the bite of 
 a fnake ; and to conviiice the crowd of its Immediate efficacy, 
 Tie carried with him a fpecies of this reptile, whofe bite was 
 known to be extremely venemous. He applied the mouth of 
 the animal to the tip of his tongue, which began to fwell fo 
 very rapidly, that in a few minutes the mouth was no longer 
 able to contain it. The intumefcence continued till it feemed 
 to burft, and exhibited a fhocking fight of foam and blood, 
 during which the quack appeared in extreme agonies, and ex- 
 cited the commiferation of all the bye-ftanders. In the height 
 of the paroxyfm he applied a little of his powder to the nofe 
 and the inflamed member, after which it gradually fubfided, 
 and the dlforder disappeared. Though the probability in the 
 city of any one perfon being bit with a fnake was not lefs 
 perhaps than a hundred thoufand to one, yet every perfon pre- 
 fent bought of the miraculous powder, till a fly fellow mali- 
 cioufly fuggefted that the whole of this fcene might probably 
 Jiave been performed by means of a bladder concealed in the 
 mouth, ' 
 
 y y 2 But
 
 348 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 But the ufual remedy for the bite of a fnake is a topical ap- 
 plication of fulphur, or the bruifed head of the fame animal 
 that gave the wound. The coincidence of fuch an extravagant 
 idea among nations as remote from each other as the equator 
 from the pole is fufficiently remarkable. A Roman poet 
 obferves, 
 
 " Quum nocuit Terpens, fertur caput illius apte 
 " Vulneribus jungi : fanat quem fauciat ipfa." 
 
 ^ Strenut de Medic'ma. 
 
 If to a ferpent's bite its head be laid, 
 
 'Twill heal the wound which by itfelf was made. 
 
 The naked legs of the Hottentots are frequently ftung by fcor- 
 pions, and they invariably endeavour to catch the animal, vi^hich 
 they bruife and apply to the wound, being confident of the 
 cure; thejavanefe, or inhabitants of Java, are fully perfuaded 
 of the efficacy of fuch application ; and the author above quoted 
 obferves with regard to the fting of this infect,, 
 
 " Vulneribufque aptus, fertur revocare venenum."" 
 
 Being applied to the wound, it Is faid to draw out the poifon. 
 
 As it is a violation of good morals for a gentleman to be {ttn 
 in company with ladies, much more fo to touch the hands of 
 the fair, the faculty rather than lofe a fee, though it commonly 
 amounts only to fifty tchen^ or the twentieth part of fix fhillings 
 and eight-pence, have contrived an ingenious way of feeling a 
 lady's pulfe : a filken cord being made faft to the wrift of the 
 patient is pafled through a hole in the wainfcot into another 
 apartment where the dodor, applying his hand to the cord, 
 
 3 after
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 349 
 
 after a due obfervance of folemn mockery, decides upon the 
 cafe and prefcribes accordingly. About court, however, a par- 
 ticular clafs of eunuchs only are entrufted with feeling the pulfe 
 of the ladies. 
 
 The crowded manner in which the common people live to- 
 gether in fmall apartments in all the cities, the confined ftreets 
 and, above all, the want of cleanlinefs in their perfons, beget 
 fometimes contagious difeafes that fweep off whole families, 
 fimilar to the plague. In Pekin incredible numbers perifh in 
 thefe contagious fevers, which more frequently happen there 
 than in other parts of the empire, notwithftanding the moderate 
 temperature of the climate. In the fouthern provinces they are 
 neither fo general, nor fo fatal as might be expe£led, owing, I 
 believe, in a very great degree, to the univerfal cuftom among 
 the mafs of the people of wearing vegetable fubftances next the 
 (kin which, being more cleanly, are confequently more whole- 
 fome than clothing made from animal matter. Thus, linen 
 and cotton are preferable to filk and woollen next the fkin, 
 which fhould be worn only by perfons of the moft cleanly ha- 
 bits. Another antidote to the ill effeQs that might be expe£led 
 from want of cleanlinefs in their houfes and their perfons, is the 
 conftant ventilation kept up in the former both by day and 
 night : during warm weather, they have no other door but an 
 open matted fkreen, and the windows are either entirely open 
 or of thin paper only. Notwithftanding their want of perfonal 
 cleanlinefs, they are little troubled with leprous or cutaneous 
 difeafes, and they pretend to be totally ignorant of gout, ftone, 
 or gravel, which they afcribe to the preventive eifedts of tea. 
 
 In
 
 350 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 In favour of this opinion, it has been obfcrved by fofne of our 
 phyficians, that fince the introdudlion of tea into common ufe, 
 cutaneous difeafes have become much more rare in Great Bri- 
 tain than they were before that period, which ottiers have 
 afcribed, perhaps with more propriety, to the general ufe of 
 linen ; both, however, may have been inftr^mental in producing 
 the happy effed. 
 
 The ravages of the fmall-pox, wherever they malce their ap- 
 pearance, are attended with a general calamity. Of thefe they 
 pretend to diftinguiQi above forty different fpecies, to each of 
 which they have given a particular name. If a good fort breaks 
 out, inoculation or, more properly fpeaking, infedion by arti- 
 ficial means becomes general. The ufual way of communicat- 
 ing the difcafe is by inferting the matter, contained in a little 
 cotton wool, into the noflrils, or they put on the clothes of, or 
 fleep in the fame bed with, fuch as may have had a favourable 
 kind ; but they never introduce the matter by making any in- 
 cifion in the fkin. This fatal difeafe, as appears from the re- 
 cords of the empire, was unknown before the tenth century, 
 when it was perhaps introduced by the Mahomedans of Arabia 
 who, at that period, carried on a confiderable commerce with 
 Canton from the Perfian gulph, and who not long before had 
 received it from the Saracens, when they invaded and con- 
 quered the Eaftern Empire. The fame difeafe was likewife one 
 of thofe bleffings which the mad crufades conferred upon Eu- 
 rope ; fince which time, to the clofe of the eighteenth century, 
 not a hope had been held out of its extirpation when, happily, 
 the invaluable difcovery of the cow-pock, or rather the general 
 
 applica-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 351 
 
 application of that difcovery, which had long been confined to 
 a particular diflriiS, has furniflied abundant grounds to hope, 
 that this defirable event may now be accomplillied. 
 
 In fome of the provinces the lower orders of people are faid- 
 to be dreadfully afflidled with fore eyes, and this endemic com- 
 plaint has been fuppofed to proceed from the copious ufe of 
 rice ; a conjedure, apparently, without any kind of foundation, 
 as the Hindus and other Indian nations, whofe whole diet 
 confifts almoft exclufively of this grain, are not particularly 
 fubjedt" to the like difeafe : and in Egypt, both in ancient and 
 modern times, the opthalmia and blindnefs were much more 
 prevalent than in China; yet rice was neither cultivated nor 
 known in that part of Africa until the reign of the caliphs, 
 when it was introduced from the eaftward. The difeafe in 
 China, if prevalent there, may more probably be owing to 
 their living in crowded and low habitations, wherein there is a 
 perpetual fmoke from the fire, from tapers made of fandal wood 
 dull employed for marking the divifions of the day, from the 
 general ufe of tobacco, and from the miafma or noxious va- 
 pours exhaling from the dirt and offals which are collecfled in or 
 near their habitations. The organ of fight may alfo be relaxed, 
 and rendered more fufceptible of difeafe, by the conftant prac- 
 tice of wafliing the face, even in the middle of fummer, with 
 warm water. I muft obferve, however, that in the courfe of 
 our long journey, we faw very few blind people, or perfons 
 afflided with fore eyes. 
 
 It
 
 352 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 It will readily be inferred, from the fhort view which has 
 been taken of the ftate of fociety, that the difeafe occafioned by 
 an iinreftrained and promifcuous intercourfe of the fexes can- 
 not be very common in China. In fail, it is fcarcely known, 
 and the treatment of it is fo little underftood, in the few cafes 
 which do occur, that it is allowed to work its way into the 
 fyftem, and is then confidered by them as an incurable leprofj\ 
 On arriving at the northern extremity of the province of Can- 
 ton, one of our condudlorshad imprudently paffed the night in 
 one of thofe houfes where, by the licenfe of government, fe- 
 males are allowed to proftitute their perfons in order to gain a 
 livelihood. Here, it feems, he had caught the infedlon, and 
 after fuffering a confiderable degree of pain, and not lefs alarm, 
 he communicated to our phyfician the fymptoms of his 
 complaint, of the nature and caufe of which he was entirely 
 ignorant. He was a man of forty years, of a vigorous confti- 
 tution and a gay cheerful temper, and had ferved as an officer 
 in fevcral campaigns from the difierent provinces of northern 
 Tartary to the frontiers of India, yet fuch a difeafe did not 
 confift with his knowledge. From this circumftance, and 
 many others of a funilar kind, I conclude that, although it may 
 fometimes make its appearance in the capital, and even here 
 but very rarely, it has originally, and no long time ago, found 
 its way thither through the ports of Chu-fan, Canton, and 
 IVIinjao, where numbers of abandoned woman obtain their fub- 
 fiftence by felling their favours to fuch of every nation as may 
 be difpofed to purchafe them. It is, in fad, fometimes called 
 by the Chinefe the Canton-ulcer. 
 
 No
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 353 
 
 No male phyfician Is ever allowed to prefcribe for pregnant 
 women ; and they confider it fo great a breach of delicacy for 
 a man to be in ihe fame room with a woman when in labour 
 that, whatever difficulties may occur, the cafe is left entirely to 
 the woman who attends her. There is not a man-midwife in 
 all China, and yet the want of them does not appear to be inju- 
 rious to population. They could fcarcely believe it poffible 
 that, in Europe, men fliould be allowed to pradife a profeffiou 
 which, in their minds, belonged exclufively to the other fex. 
 
 As a due knowledge of the organization of the human body, of 
 the powers and fundions of the feveral parts, Is attainable only 
 by the ftudy of pradical anatomy, a ftudy that would fliock the 
 weak nerves of a timid Chinefe, it will not be expeded that 
 their furgical operations fliould either be numerous or neatly 
 performed. The law indeed which I have had occafion to no- 
 tice, and the effeds produced by it in two or three inftances 
 that occurred to our knowledge, will fufficiently explain the 
 very low ebb of chirurgical fl5:ill. No one will readily under- 
 take to perform the moft fimple operation, where not only all 
 the dired confequences, but the contingencies for forty days 
 muft He at his door. They fometimes fucceed In reducing a 
 diflocation, and in fetting a fimple fradure ; but in difficult 
 and complicate cafes, the patient Is generally abandoned to 
 chance. Amputation is never pradifed. In the courfe of our- 
 whole journey, wherein we pafled through millions of people, 
 I do not recoiled to have feen a fingle individual that had fuf- 
 tained the lofs of a limb, and but very few in any way maimed; 
 from whence I conclude, that accidents are uncommon, or that 
 
 z 2 ferlous
 
 554 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ierious ones ufualiy terminate in the lofs of life. A Chinefe is 
 fo dreadfully afraid of a (harp cutting inftrument, that he has 
 not even fubmitted to the operation of blood-letting ; though 
 the principle is admitted, as they are in the pradice of drawing 
 blood by fcarifying the fkin, and applying cupping veffels. In 
 certain complaints they burn the fkin with fmall pointed irons 
 made hot, and fometimes, after punduring the part with filver 
 needles, they fet fire to the leaves of a fpecies of Artimefia upon 
 it, in the fame manner as the Moxa in Japan is made ufe of to 
 cure and even prevent a number of difeafes, but efpecially the 
 gout and rheumatifm, the former of which is faid to be unknown 
 in China. Cleanfing the ears, cutting corns, pulling the joints 
 till they crack, twitching the nofe, thumping on the back, and 
 fuch like operations, are annexed to the fhaving profeffion, by 
 which thoufands in every city gain a livelihood. In fhort, the 
 whole medical fkill of the Chinefe may be fummed up in the 
 words of the ingenious Dodor Gregory from the information 
 he obtained from his friend Dodtor Gillan. " In the greateft, 
 " moft ancient, and mod civilized empire on the face of the 
 " earth, an empire that was great, populous, and highly civi- 
 " lized two thoufand years ago, when this country was as fa- 
 " vage as New Zealand is at prefent, no fuch good medical 
 " aid can be obtained among the people of it, as a fmart 
 " boy of fixteen, who had been but tv/elve months ap- 
 " prentice to a good and well employed Edinburgh Sur- 
 " geon, might reafonably be expected to afford." If," con- 
 tinues the Dodor, " the Emperor of China, the abfolute 
 " monarch of three hundred and thirty-three millions of 
 " people, more than twice as many as all Europe contains. 
 
 I *' were
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 SS5 
 
 *' were attacked with a pleurify, or got his leg broken, it 
 " would be happy for himto get fuch a boy for his firft phy- 
 " fician and ferjeant-furgeon. The boy (if he had feea his 
 " mafter's praQice in but one or two fimilar cafes) would cer- 
 . " tainly know how to fet his Imperial Majefty's leg, and would 
 " probably cure him of his pleurify, which none of his own fub- 
 " jeds could do." 
 
 Having thus given a flight fketch of the flate of fome of the 
 leading branches in fcience, arts, and manufadlures, omitting 
 purpofely that of agriculture, which will be noticed among the 
 fuhjeds of a future fedlon, I think, upon the whole, it may 
 fairly be concluded, that the Chinefe have been among the 
 firft nations, now exifting in the world, to arrive at a certain 
 pitch of perfedion, where, from the policy of the govern- 
 ment, or fome other caufe, they have remained ftationary: 
 that they were civilized, fully to the fame extent they now are, 
 more than two thoufand years ago, at a period when all Europe 
 might be confidered, comparatively, as barbarous ; but that 
 they have fmce made little progrefs in any thing, and been re- 
 trograde in many things : that, at this moment, compared with 
 Europe, they can only be faid to be great in trifles, whilfl: they 
 are really trifling in every thing that is great. I cannot how- 
 ever exa(flly fubfcribe to an opinion pronounced on them by a 
 learned and elegant writer*, who was well verfed in oriental litera- 
 ture, as being rather too unqualified ; but he was lefs acquainted 
 with their character than that of any other Afiatic nation, and 
 totally ignorant of their language. " Their letters," fays he, 
 
 • Sir William Joaes. 
 
 Z Z 2 "if
 
 SS^ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 *• if we may fo call them, arc merely the fymbols of ideas ; 
 
 ** their philofophy feems yet in. fo rude a ftate, as hardly to 
 
 ** deferve the appellation ; they have no ancient monuments 
 
 " from which their origin can be traced, even by plaufible con- 
 
 *' je£lure ; their fciences are wholly exotic ; and their mecha- 
 
 *' nical arts have nothing in them charadteriftic of a particular 
 
 " family; nothing which any fet of men, in a country fo high- 
 
 " ly favoured by nature, might not have difcovered and im- 
 
 " proved."
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 357^ 
 
 CHAP. VIT. 
 
 Government — Laws — Tenures of Land and Taxes — Revenues 
 —Civil and Military Ranks, and Eftablifhments. 
 
 Optnions on -which the Executive Authority it grounded. — Principle on which an Em-m 
 peror of China feldotn appears in public. — The Cenferate. — Public Departments.— 
 
 Laws. — Scale of Crimes and Punijhments. — Laivs regarding Homicide, Curious 
 
 Law Cafe. — iVo Appeal from Civil Suits. — DefeBs in the Executive Government. 
 —Duty of Obedience and Power of perfonal CorreSiion. — RuJJia and China com' 
 pared. — Fate of the Prime Minijier Ho-chang^-tong. — Tearly Calendar and Pekin 
 Gazette^ engines of Government. — Freedom of the Prefs — Duration of the Govern- 
 ment attempted to be explained. — Precautions of Government to prevent InfurreElions: 
 —Taxes and Revenues. — Civil and Military EJlabVfhments. — Chinefe Armv its 
 Numbers and Appointments. — ConduB of the Tartar Government at the Ccrnueff. 
 Impolitic Change of late years y and the probable Confequences of it. 
 
 HE late period at which the nations of Europe became firft 
 acquainted with the exiftence even of that vaft extent of coun- 
 try comprehended under the name of China, the difficulties of 
 accefs to any part of it when known, the peculiar nature of 
 the language which, as I have endeavoured to prove, has no 
 relation with any other either ancient or modern, the extreme 
 jealoufy of the government towards foreigners, and the con- 
 tempt in which they were held by the loweft of the people, may 
 
 ferve,
 
 j^S f^flAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fcrve, among other caufes, to account for the very limited and 
 imperfefl knowledge we have hitherto obtained of the real hif- 
 tory of this extraordinary empire : for their records, it feems, 
 are by no means deficient. For two centuries at lead before 
 the Chriftian era, down to the prefent time, the tranfa£tions of 
 each reign are amply detailed without any interruption. They 
 have even preferved colledlions of copper coins, forming a re- 
 gular feries of the different Emperors that have filled the throne 
 of China for the laft two thoufand years. Such a collection, 
 though not quite complete, Sir George Staunton brought with 
 him to England. 
 
 Before this time, when China confifted of a number of petty 
 ftates or principalities, the annals of the country are faid to 
 abound with recitals of wars and battles and bloodfhed, like 
 thofe of every other part of the world. But, in proportion as 
 the number of thefe diftinCt kingdoms diminilhed, till at length 
 they were all melted and amalgamated into one great empire, 
 the deftrudion of the human race by human means abated, and ' 
 the government, fince that time, has been lefs interrupted by fo- 
 reign war, or domeftic commotion, than any other that hiftory 
 has made known. But whether this definable ftate of public 
 tranquillity may have been brought about by the peculiar nature 
 of the government being adapted to the genius and habits of the 
 people, which in the opinion of Ariftotle is the beft of all 
 poffible governments, or rather by conftraining and fubduing 
 the genius and habits of the people to the views and maxims of 
 the government, is a queftion that may admit of fome difpute. 
 At the prefent day, however, it is fufficiently evident, that 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN" CHINA. 359 
 
 the heavy hand of power has completely overcome and moulded 
 to its own fhape the phyfical charafter of the people, and that 
 their moral fentiments and adtions are fwayed by the opinions, 
 and alraoft under the entire dominion, of the government. 
 
 Thefe opinions, to which it owes fo much of its ftabinty, are 
 grounded on a principle of authority which, according to 
 maxims induftrioufly inculcated and now completely eftabliflied 
 in the minds of the people, is confidered as the natural and un- 
 alienable right of the parent over his children ; an authority 
 that is not fuppofed to ceafe at any given period of life or years, 
 but to extend, and to be maintained with undiminifhed and un- 
 controuled fway, until the death of one of the parties diffolves 
 the obligation. The Emperor being confidered as the common 
 father of his people is accordingly invefted with the exercife of 
 the fame authority over them, as the father of a family exerts 
 on thofe of his particular houfehold. In this fenfe he takes the 
 Jtitle of the Great Father; and by his being thus placed above 
 any earthly controul, he is fuppofed to be alfo above earthly 
 defcent, and therefore, as a natural confequence, he fometimes 
 ftyles himfelf i\\Q/ole ruler of" the world and the Son of Heaven, 
 But that no inconfiflency might appear in the grand fabric of 
 filial obedience the Emperor, with folemn ceremony at the com- 
 mencement of every new year, makes his proftrations before 
 the Emprefs Dowager, and on the fame day he demands a re- 
 petition of the fame homage from all his great officers of ftate. 
 Conformable to this fyftem, founded entirely on parental au- 
 thority, the governor of a province is confidered as the fathef 
 of that province ; of a city, the father of that city ; and the head 
 
 of
 
 36o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of any office or department is fuppofed to prcfide over it with 
 the fame authority, intereft, and afFedion, as the father of a 
 family fuperintends and manages the concerns of domeftic 
 life. 
 
 It is greatly to be lamented that a fyftem of government, fo 
 plaufible in theory, ftiould be liable to fo many abufes in prac-' 
 tice ; and that this fatherly care and affedion in the governors, 
 and filial duty and reverence in the governed would, with 
 much more propriety, be expreffed by the terms of tyranny, 
 opprefTion, and injuftice in the one, and by fear, deceit, and 
 difobedieace in the ether. 
 
 The firft grand maxim on which the Emperor ads is, feldom 
 to appear before the public, a maxim whofe origin would be 
 difficultly traced to any principle of affedion or folicitude for 
 his children ; much more eafily explained as the offspring of 
 fufpicion. The tyrant who may be confcious of having com- 
 mitted, or affented to, ads of cruelty and oppreffion, muft feel ' 
 a reludance to mix with thofe who may have fmarted under 
 the lafli of his power, naturally concluding that fome fecret hand 
 may be led, by a fingle blow, to avenge his own wrongs, or 
 thofe of his fellow fubjeds. The principle, however, upon 
 which the Emperor of China feldom fhews himfelf in public, 
 and then only in the height of fplendor and magnificence, feems 
 to be eftablifhed on a policy of a very different kind lo that of 
 felf-prefervation. A power that ads in fecret, and whofe in- 
 fluence is felt near and remote at the fame moment, makes a 
 ftronger impreffion on the mind, and is regarded with more 
 
 dread
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 361 
 
 dread and awful refpedl, than if the agent was always vifible 
 and familiar to the eye of every one. The priefts of the Eleu- 
 finian myfteries were well acquainted with this feature of the 
 human chara<fl:er, which is ftronger in proportion as the reafon- 
 ing faculties are lefs improved, and which required the enlight- 
 ened mind of a Socrates to be able to difregard the terror they 
 infpired among the vulgar. Thus alfo Deioces, as Heredotus 
 informs us, when once eftabliflied as king in Ecbatana, would 
 fuffer none of the people, for whom before he was the common 
 advocate, to be now admitted to his prefence, concluding that all 
 thofe who were debarred from feeing him, would eafily be per- 
 fuaded that his nature, by being created king, was transformed 
 into fomething much fuperior to theirs. A frequent accefs in- 
 deed to men of rank and power and talents, a familiar and un- 
 reftrained intercourfe with them, and a daily obfervance of their 
 ordinary adlions and engagements in the concerns of life, have 
 a tendency very much to diminifh that reverence and refpe£t 
 which public opinion had been willing to allow them. It was 
 juftly obferved by the great Conde', that no man is a hero to his 
 valet-de- chambre. 
 
 Confiderations of this kind, rather than any dread of his fub- 
 je£ts, may probably have fuggefted the cuftom which prohibits 
 an Emperor of China from making his perfon too familiar to 
 the multitude, and which requires that he fhould exhibit him- 
 felf only on particular occafions, arrayed in pomp and magnifi- 
 cence, and at the head of his whole court, confifting of an af- 
 femblage of many thoufand officers of ftate, ihe agents of his 
 
 3 A will,
 
 362 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 will, all ready, at the word of command, to proftrate themlelves 
 at his feet. 
 
 The power of the fovereign is abfolute ; but the patriarchal 
 fyftem, making it a point of indifpenfable duty for a fon to 
 bring offerings to the fpirit of his deceafed parent in the mod 
 public manner, operates as fome check upon the exercife of this 
 power. By this civil inftitutlon, the duties of which are ob- 
 ferved with more than a religious ftri£lnefs, he is conftantly 
 put in mind that the memory of his private condufl, as well 
 as of his public a£ls, will long furvive his natural life ; that his 
 name will, at certain times in every year, be pronounced with a 
 kindoffacredand reverential awe, from one extremity of theex- 
 tenfive empire to the other, provided he may have filled his fta- 
 tionto the fatisfadionofhisfubjeds ; and that, on the contrary, 
 public execrations will refcue from oblivion any arbitrary ad of 
 injuftice and oppreffion, of which he may have been guilty. It 
 may alfo operate as a motive for being nice and circumfped in 
 the nomination of a fuccefTor, which the law has left entirely to 
 his choice. 
 
 The confideration, however, of pofthumous fame, would 
 operate only as a (lender reftraint on the caprices of a tyrant, as 
 the hiftory of this, as well as other countries, furnifhes abun- 
 dant examples. It has, therefore, been thought neceflary to add 
 another, and perhaps a more effedual check, to curb any dif- 
 pofition to licentioufnefs or tyranny that might arife in the 
 bread of the monarch. This is the appointment of the cenfo- 
 
 rate.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 363 
 
 rate, an office filled by two perfons, who have the power ofre- 
 monftracing freely againft any illegal or unconftitutional ad 
 about to be committed, or fandioned by the Emperor. And 
 although it may well be fuppofed, that thefe mfen are extremely 
 cautious in the exercile of the power delegated to them, by vir- 
 tue of their office, and in the difcharge of this difagreeable part 
 of their duty, yet they have another tafl^ to perform, on which 
 their own pofthumous fame is not lefs involved than that of 
 their mafter, and in the execution of which they run lefs rifle 
 of giving offence. They are the hiftoriographers of the em- 
 pire ; or, more corredly fpeaking, the biographers of the Em- 
 peror. Their employment, in this capacity, confifts chiefly in 
 colledting the fentiments of the monarch, in recording his 
 fpeeches and memorable fayings, and in noting down the moft 
 prominent of his private aftions, and the remarkable occur- 
 rences of his reign. Thefe records are lodged in a large cheft, 
 which is kept in that part of the palace where the tribunals of 
 government are held, and which is fuppofed not to be opened until 
 the deceafe of the Emperor ; and, if any thing material to the 
 injury of his character and reputation is found to be recorded 
 the publication of it is delayed, out of delicacy to his family, till 
 two or three generations have pafled away, and fometimes till 
 the expiration of the dynafty ; by this indulgence they pretend, 
 that a more faithful relation is likely to be obtained, in which 
 neither fear nor flattery could have operated to difguife the 
 truth. 
 
 An infl;ltution, fo remarkable and fmgular in its kind in an 
 arbitrary government, could not fail to carry with it a very 
 
 3 A 2 powerful
 
 3r4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 powerful influence upon the decifions of the monarch, and to 
 make him folicitous to ad, on all occafions, in fuch a manner, 
 as would be moft likely to fecure a good name, and to tranfmit 
 his charadler unfuUied and facred to pofterity. The records of 
 lyheir hiftory are faid to mention a ftory of an Emperor, of the 
 dynafty or flimily of Tang^ who, from a confcioufnefs of hav- 
 ing, in feveral inftances, tranfgrelTed the bounds of his autho- 
 rity, was determined to take a peep into the hiftorical cheft, 
 where he knew he fhould find all his adions recorded. Having 
 made ufe of a variety of arguments, in order to convince the' 
 two cenfors that there could be nothing improper in the ftep he 
 was about to take, as, among other things, he alTured them, 
 he was aduated with the defire only of being made ac- 
 quainted with his greateft faults, as the firft ftep to amend- 
 ment, one of thefe gentlemen is faid to have anfwered him very 
 nobly, *o this efFed : " It is true your Majefty has committed a 
 " number of errors, and it has been the painful duty of our 
 " employment to take notice of them ; a duty," continued he, 
 " which further obliges us to inform pofterity of the conver- 
 *' fation which your Majefty has this day, very improperly, 
 " held with us." 
 
 To afTift the Emperor In the weighty affairs of ftate, and in 
 the arduous tafk of governing an empire of fo great an extent, 
 and fuch immenfe population, the conftitutlon has affigned him 
 two councils, one ordinary, and the other extraordinary ; the or- 
 dinary council is compofed of his principal minifters, under the 
 name of CoUao, of which there are fix. The extraordinary 
 council confifts entirely of the princes of the blood. 
 
 For
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 365 
 
 For the adminiflration of the affairs of government, there 
 are fix boards or departments, confifting of, 
 
 1. The Court of Appointments to vacancies in the of- 
 
 fices of government, being compofed of the minifter and 
 learned men, qualified to judge of the merits of can- 
 didates. 
 
 2. The Court of Finance. 
 
 3. The Court of Ceremonies, prefiding over the diredlion of 
 
 ancient cuftoms, and treating with foreign Embaffadors. 
 
 4. The Court for regulating military affairs. 
 
 5. The Tribunal of Juftice. 
 
 6. The Board of Works. 
 
 t 
 
 Thefe public fundionaries refolve upon, recommend, and 
 report to the Emperor, all matters belonging to their feparate. 
 jurifdidlions, who, with the advice of his ordinary and, ifcon- 
 fidered to be neceflary, of his extraordinary council, affirms, 
 amends, or reje£ts their decrees. For this purpofe, the late 
 Emperor never omitted to give regular audience in the great hall 
 of the palace every morning at the hours of four or five o'clock. 
 Subordinate to thefe fupreme courts held in the capital, are 
 others of fimilar conftitution eflabliflied in the different pro- 
 vinces
 
 366 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 vinces and great cities of the empire, each of which correfponds 
 with its principal in Pekin. 
 
 It would far exceed the limits of the prefent work, were I to 
 enter into a detail of their code of laws, which indeed I am not 
 fufficlently prepared to do. They are publiflied for the ufe of 
 the fubje£l, in the plalneft charadters that the language will ad- 
 mit, making fixteen fniall volumes, a copy of which is now 
 in England ; and I am encouraged to hold out a reafonable 
 hope, that this compendium of the laws of China may, ere 
 long, appear in an able and faithful Englifh tranflation, which 
 will explain, more than all the volumes that have hitherto 
 been written on the fubjedl of China, in what manner a mafs 
 of people, more than the double of that which is found in all 
 Europe, has been kept together through fo many ages in one 
 bond of union. This work* on the laws of China, for per- 
 fpicuity and method, may juftly be compared with Blackftone's 
 Commentaries on the Laws of England. It not only contains 
 the laws arranged under their refpedlive heads, but to every 
 law is added a fhort commentary and a cafe. 
 
 I have been aflured, on the befl: authority, that the laws of 
 China define, in the moft diftindt and perfpicuous manner, al- 
 moft every fhade of criminal offences, and the punifhment 
 awarded to each crime : that the greateft care appears to have 
 been taken in conftrudting this fcale of crimes and punifliments; 
 that they are very far from being fanguinary : and that if 
 
 • It is called the Ta tchin Leu-Lee, the laws and infticutes under the dynafty Ta- 
 uhin, which is the name affumed by the prefent family on the throne. 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 367 
 
 the pradice was equal to the theory, few nations could boaft 
 of a more mild, and, at the fame time, a more efficacious dif- 
 penfation of juftice. Of all the defpotic governments exifting, 
 there is certainly none where the life of man is held fo facred 
 as in the laws of China. A murder is never overlooked, except 
 in the horrid pradice of expofmg infants : nor dares the Em- 
 peror himfelf, all-powerful as he is, to take away the life of 
 the meaneft fubjeft, without the formality at leaft of a regular 
 procefs, though, as will be feen in the cafe of the late prime 
 minifter of Kien-Long, the chance of efcaping muft be very 
 flender, where he himfelf becomes the accufer. So tenacioufly 
 however do they adhere to that folemn declaration of God de- 
 livered to Noah — " At the hand of every man's brother will I 
 " require the life of man. Whofo fheddeth man's blood, by 
 " man fhall his blood be fhed," — that the good intention is 
 oftentimes defeated by requiring, as I have elfewhere obferved, 
 from the perfon laft feen in company with one who may have 
 received a mortal wound, or who may have died fuddenly, a 
 circumftantial account, fupported by evidence, ia what manner 
 his death was occafioned. 
 
 In attempting to proportion punifhments to the degrees of 
 crimes, inftead of awarding the fame punifhment for ftealiiig a 
 loaf of bread and taking away the life of man, the Chinefe 
 legiflators, according to our notions, feem to have made too 
 little diftindion between accidental manllaughter and premedi- 
 tated murder. To conftitute the crime, it is not neceflary to 
 prove the intention or malice aforethought ; for though want of 
 intention palliates the offence, and confequently mitigates the 
 
 I punifhment»
 
 o 
 
 5% TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 punifliment, yet it never entirely €Xcufes the offender. If a 
 man fhould kill another by an unforefeen and unavoidable ac- 
 cident, his life is forfeited by the law, and however favourable 
 the circumftances may appear in behalf of the criminal, the 
 Emperor alone is inverted with the power of remitting the fen- 
 tence, a power which he very rarely if ever exercifes to 
 the extent of a full pardon but, on many occafions, to a 
 mitigation of the punifhment awarded by law. Stridly fpeak- 
 ing, no fentence of death can be carried into execution until it 
 has been ratified by the monarch. Yet in ftate crimes, or in 
 a£ts of great atrocity, the viceroy of a province fometimes takes 
 upon himfelf to order fummary punifhment, and prompt execu- 
 tion has been inflided on foreign criminals at Canton when 
 guilty only of homicide. Thus, about the beginning of the laft 
 century, a man belonging to Captain Shelvocke had the mif- 
 fortune to kill a Chinefe on the river. The corpfe was laid be- 
 fore the door of the Englifh fadory, and rhe firft perfon that 
 came out, who happened to be -one of the fupercargoes, was 
 feized and carried as a prifoner into the city, nor would they 
 confent to his releafe till the criminal was given up, whom, af- 
 ter a {hort inquiry, they ftrangled. The recent affair of the 
 unfortunate gunner is well known. An affray happened in Ma- 
 cao a few years ago, in which a Chinefe was killed by the Por- 
 tuguefe. A peremptory demand was made for one of the lat- 
 ter, to expiate the death of the former. The government of 
 this place, either unable or unwilling to fix on the delinquent, 
 propofed terms of compromife, which were rejecled and force 
 was threatened to be ufed. There happened to be a merchant 
 from Manilla then refiding at Macao, a man of excellent cha- 
 racter,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 369 
 
 rafter, who had long carried on a commerce between the two 
 ports. This unfortunate man was fe'.edted to bo the innocent 
 vidim to appeafe the rigour of Chinefe judice, and he was im- 
 mediately ftrangled *. 
 
 The procefs of every trial for criminal offences, of which the 
 punifhment is capital, muft be tranfmitted to Pekin, and fubmit- 
 
 * Various accidents having happened at different limes to Chinefe fubjeifts in tlie 
 port of Canton, which have generally led to difagreeabic difcuffions with the Chinefe 
 government, the fupercargoes of the Eafl India Company thought proper, on a late 
 occafion of a perfon being wounded by a Ihot from a Britifli fhip of war, to make 
 application for an extraft from the criminal code of laws relating to homicide, in or- 
 der to have the fame tranflated into F.nglifli, and made public. This extradl confided 
 of the following articles : 
 
 1. A man who kills another on the fuppofition of theft, fhall be ftrangled, according 
 to the law of homicide committed in an affray. 
 
 2. A man who fires at another with a mufquet, and kills him thereby, ftiall be be- 
 headed, as in cafes of wilful murder. ]f the fufferer be wounded, bur not mortally, 
 the offender {hall be feiit into exile. 
 
 3. A man who puts to death a criminal who had been apprehended, and made no 
 refillance, ihail be ftrangled, according to the law againll homicide committed in 
 an affray. 
 
 4. A man who falfely accufes an innocent perfon of theft (In cafes of greatefl crimina- 
 lity) is guilty of a capital offence ; in all other cafes the offenders, whether princi- 
 pals or accefi'.u-ies, fhall be fent into exile. 
 
 5. A man who wounds another unintentionally fliall be tried according to the law 
 refpeiting blows given in an affray, and the puniflimeat rendered more or Icfs fe- 
 vere, according to the degree of injury fuftained. 
 
 6. A man who, intoxicated with liquor, commits out';ages againll the laws, fhall be 
 exiled to a defert country, there to remain in a ftate of fervitude. 
 
 In this clear and decifive manner are puniihments awarded for every clafs of 
 crimes committed in fociety ; and it was communicated to the Englifli faftory from 
 the viceroy, that on no confideration was it left in the breaft of the judge to extenu- 
 ate or to exaggerate the fentence, whatever might be the rank, charac'ter, orftation of 
 the delinquent. 
 
 3 B ted
 
 370 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ted to the impartial eye of the fupreme tribunal of juftice, which 
 affirms or alters, according to the nature of the cafe. And 
 where any peculiar circumftances appear in favour of the ac- 
 cufed, an order for revifing the fentence is recommended to the 
 Emperor, who, in fuch cafes, either amends it himfelf, or di- 
 rects the proceedings to be returned to the provincial court, 
 with the fentiments of the fupreme tribunal on the cafe. The 
 proceedings are then revifed, and if the circumftances are 
 found to apply to the fuggeftions of the high court, they alter 
 or modify their former fentence accordingly *. 
 
 As 
 
 * The following law cife, whicli is literally tranflated from a volume of reports 
 of trials, publiflied in the prefent reign of Kia-King, and with which I have been 
 favoured by a friend (who was himfelf the tranflacor), will ferve to fliew the mode of 
 proceeding in criminal matters of the provincial courts of judicature. The circum- 
 ftances of the tranfaflion appear to have been enquired into fairly and impartially, 
 and no pains fpared to afcertain the exaft degree of criminality. Being given to me 
 about the time when the trial took place of Smith, for the murder of the fiippofed 
 Hammerfmith ghojl, I was forcibly ftruck with the remarkable coincidence of the two 
 cafes, and with the almoft identical defence fet up by the Chinefe and the Englifli 
 prifoners, and on that account it excited more intereft than perhaps it might other- 
 wife be confidered to be entitled to. 
 
 Tranjlation of an ExtraS from a CoUeSion of Chinefe Laiv Reports, being the Trial, Ap- 
 peal, and Sentence upon an IndiSinent for Homicide by Gun firing. 
 
 At a criminal court held in the province of Fo-kien, upon an indiftment for {hoot- 
 ing, and mortally wounding a relation ; fetting forth, that Shefo-pao, native of the 
 city oi Fo-nganfien, did fire a gun, and by mifchance,wound Vang-yung-man, fo that he 
 died thereof. 
 
 The cafe was originally reported, as follows, by Vu-fe-Kung, fub»viceroy of the pro- 
 vince of Fo-kien : 
 
 The accufed Shefo-pao, and the deceafed Vang-yung-man, wjere of different families, 
 but connefted by marriage, were well known to each other, and there had al- 
 ways been a good underftanding between them. 
 
 In
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 371 
 
 As in fotne of the Grecian ftates, and other nations of mo- 
 dern times, the punifliment of treafon was extended to the re- 
 lations of the criminal, fo in China, even to the ninth genera- 
 tion. 
 
 la the courfe of the firft moon, of (lie 25th year of Kien-long, Sbe-fo-pao cultivated 
 a farm on the brow of a hill belonging to Chin-fe-kien, and which lay in the vicinity 
 of certain lands cultivated by Vang yung-man ani Vang-ky-bao, inafmuch as that the 
 fields of Vang-yung-man lay on the left of thofe of She-fo pao, which were In the cen- 
 ter, and thofe oi Vang-ky-hao on the right fide of the declivity of the hill. It oc- 
 curred that on the 7th day of the 9th moon of the fame year, Sht-fo-pao obferv- 
 ing the corn in his fields to be nearly ripe, was apprehenfive that thieves might 
 find an opportunity of ftealing the grain; and being aware, at the fame time, of the 
 danger which exifted on thofe hills from wolves and tygers, armed himfelf with a 
 mufquet, and went that night alone to thefpot, in order to watch the corn, and feated 
 himfelf in a convenient place on the fide of the hill. It happened that Vang-ly hao 
 went that day to the honfe of Vang-yung-man, in order that they might go together 
 to keep watch over the corn in their rel'peftive fields. However Vang-yung-tong the 
 elder brother of Vang-yung-man, conceiving it to be yet early, detained them to drink 
 tea, and fmoke tobacco until the fecond watch * of the night, when they parted from 
 him, and proceeded on their expedition, provided with large (licks for defence. 
 
 Vang-ky-hao having occafion to ftop for a fhort time upon the road, the other Vang.. 
 yiing-man went on before, until he reached the boundary of the fields watched by 
 She-fo-pao. 
 
 Shefo-pao, on hearing a ruftling noife among the corn, and perceiving the fhadovr 
 of a perfon through the obfcurity of the night, immediately hailed him, l:ut the wind 
 blowing very frefti, he did not hear any reply. She-fo-pao then took alarm, on the 
 fufpicion that the found proceeded from thieves, or eUe from wild beads, and light- 
 ing the match-lock, which he held in his hand, fired it off, in order to repel the in- 
 vaders whoever they might be. 
 
 Vang-yung-man was wounded by the fhot in the head, cheeks, neck, and flioulder, 
 and inftantly fell to the ground. Vang iy -hao hearing the explbfion, haftened for, 
 ward, and called aloud to enquire who had fired the gun. The other heard the 
 voice, and going to the place from whence it proceeded, then learned whom he had 
 
 • Each watch is two hcurs, and the fecond watdi begins it eleven S'clock. 
 
 3 a 2 vroundei
 
 372 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 tion, a traitor's blood is fuppofed to be tainted, though they 
 ufually fatisfy the law by including only the neareft male rela- 
 tions, thet\ living, in the guilt of the culprit, and by mitigating 
 
 their 
 
 vounded by the mifchance. The v.ounds of Vang-yung-man being mortal, h« expire J 
 after a very fliort interval of time liad elapfed. 
 
 She-fo-pao, being repeatedly examined by the magiftrate, acknowledged the faift 
 without rcferve ; and, upon the ftrifteft inveiligation and enquiry being entered up- 
 on, depofed, That it was really during the obfcurity of the night that he had afceuded 
 the hill, in order to watch the corn, and on hearin-J a coife to proceed from a quar- 
 ter of the field that was extremely dark, and in which the fhadow of forae perfon 
 was difcernable, he had called our, but received no anfwer : — That the fufpicion then 
 arofe in his mind, that they were either thieves or wild beads, and alarmed him for 
 the fecurity of his perfon, being then entirely alone ; he therefore fired the gun to re- 
 pel the danger, and wounded Fisng-yung-man by mifchance, fo that he afterwards 
 died. 
 
 That he, the deponent, was not aifluated by any other motive or intention on this 
 occafion, nor defirous of caufing the death of an individual. The relations of the 
 deceafed being then examined, gave a correfponding evidence, and raifed no doubts 
 in other refpefls to the truth of the above depofition. In confideration, therefore, 
 hereof it appears that, although Shs-fopao is guilty of homicide by gun-firing, yet, 
 fince he was upon the watch over the fields, in the darknefs of the night, and per- 
 ceived the fhadow of a man, whom he hailed, and from whom he received no anfwer, 
 and had In confequencc apprehended the approach of thieves or wild beads, to pre- 
 vent which, he fired the gun that occafioned the wounds whereof the man is now 
 dead — It follows, that there did not exift any premeditated intention of murder. — 
 The aft of which She-fo-pao Hands convifted may be, therefore, ranked under the ar- 
 ticle of homicide committed in an affray, and the fentence accordingly is, to be 
 ftrangled upon the next enfuing general execution or gaol delivery. 
 
 The above report being tranfmitted to the fupreme criminal tribunal at Pekin, — 
 They rejoin, 
 
 That, on inveftlgation of the laws we find It ordained, that homicide by gun-firing 
 fljall receive a fentence conformable to the \a\v againft intentional murder; and that 
 the law againft intentional murder gives a fentence of decapitation on the next en- 
 fuing public execution, or gaol delivery. It is likewife found to be ordained by law, 
 
 that
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 373 
 
 their punlfliment to that of exile. Nothing can be more unjuft 
 and abfurd, however pohtic, than fuch a law ; abfurd, becaufe 
 it confiders a non-entity capable of committing a crime ; and 
 
 unjuft, 
 
 that whrffever fhaJl unwarily draw a bow, and fhoot an arrow towards fields or tene- 
 ments, fo that any perfon unperceived therein (hall be wounded, and die therefrom, 
 the offender ftiall receive a hundred blows with the bamboo, and be banidied to the 
 dlil.incs of three thoufanJ lys (near a thoufand miles). 
 
 In the caf^ now before us, She-fo-pao, being armed with a mufquet, goes to watch 
 the corn, hears a noife in the fields, and calls aloud, but, receiving no anfwer, fuf- 
 pefts it to proceed from thieves or wild beads, and fires the gun, by which Vang- 
 yunj-man was wounded, and is now dead. But in the dspofition given in by the de- 
 fendant, the declaration that he faw the fliadow of fonie perfon does not accord 
 with the fufpicion afterwards expreJed, that the noife arofe from wild beafts. If, in 
 truth, he diftinguilhed traces of a man, at the time of his calling out, notwithftand- 
 ing that the violence of the wind prevented his hearing the reply, She-fo-pao had ocu- 
 lar proof of the reality of the perfon from the fhadow he had feen. Continuing our in" 
 velligation, we have further to notice, that when She-fo-pao took his ftation in order to 
 guard the middle ground, Vang-yung-man was engaged in watching his fields in a fi- 
 milar m.inner, and would have occafion to go near the limits of the middle ground 
 in his way to his own farm, and which could not be far removed from the path 
 leading to the middle ground ; on which account it behoved Shefo-pao to hail the 
 perfon repeatedly, previous to the firing of the gun, whofe effe<ft would be inflanta- 
 neous, and occafion the death of the unknown perfon from whom, the found pro- 
 ceeded. 
 
 Shefo-pao not having repeatedly hailed the perfon from whom the noife had arlfen 
 to difturb him, and proceeding to the laft extremity upon the firft impulfe or alarm, 
 are grounds for fufpeifting that there exi(l» a fallacy and difguife in the teftimony 
 given in this affair, in which cafe, a fcntence conformable to the law againft homi- 
 cide, committed in an affray, would afford a punifhmeiit unequul and inadequate to 
 the pfiffible aggravation of the offence. 
 
 On the other hand, it would appear, in confirmation of his ftatement, that thefe 
 fields v/ere, according to the cuftom of the neighbouring villages, uiiderftood to be 
 guarded at that time in the manner aforefaid, and that circumftance proving true, 
 the accident that followed might ftiU be coniidered folely as the effecfl of apprehen- 
 
 fion
 
 J74 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 unjufl;, becaufe it puiilllies an innocent perfon. The lawgiver 
 of Ifrael, in order to intimidate his ftifF-necked and rebellious 
 fubjcds, found it expedient to threaten the vifitation of God on 
 
 the 
 
 Ijon of wild beafts by night, inducing the accufed to fire towards fields or tenements, 
 fo as to wound a man mortally by tlie mifchance. 
 
 Should a ftri(51: examination admit of this interpretation of the offence, the fentence 
 may be awarded according to the law, immediately applicable to the fubjedt, and 
 not in conformit)- with the law againft homicide committed in an affray. As the 
 life or death of the offender refts on the preference to be fhewn towards either of 
 thofe expofitions of the cafe, it is refolved to hold any immediate declfion as prema- 
 ture, and we ilfae our directions to the faid ftib-viceroy to revife the prior decifion ; 
 and, with the afllftance of a renewed invelligation, finally to determine and report to 
 us the fentence which he may conceive moll agreeable to the fpirit of our laws. 
 
 After a fecond inveftigation, and recoufideration of the affair, the fiib-viceroy 
 fent in the following report to the fiipreme tribunal : Purfuant to the order 
 •for revifal ilTued by the fupremc, criminal tribunal, She-fo-pao has been again exa- 
 mined at the bar, and depofes, That on hearing a noife in the corn fields, he 
 conceived it to proceed from thieves, and called out in confequence, but, re- 
 ceiving no anfwer, and finding the noife gradually to approach him, he then 
 fufpefted it to have arifen from a wolf or tyger ; and, in the alarm thus excited for 
 his perfonal fafety, had fired the gun, by which Vang-yung-man had been mortally 
 wounded ; That, fincc the event happened in the fecond watch of the night, after the 
 moon had fet, and while clouds obfcured the faint light of the flars, it was really a 
 moment of iinpenetrable darknefs ; and that it was only at the diftance of a few 
 paces that he diftinguifhed the approach of the found that had alarmed him, but, in 
 faft, had never feen any fhadow or traces -whatfoever ; That had he perceived any 
 traces or fliadow of that defcription, he would not have ceafed to call out, though 
 he had failed to receive an anfwer the firft time, nor would he have had the temerity 
 to fire the gun, and render himfelf guilty of murder. 
 
 That, on the preceding examination, the feverily and rigour of the enquiry re- 
 garding the grounds upon which he fufpefled the approach of thieves, {o as to in- 
 duce him to fire, had overcome him with fear, being a countryman unufed to fimi- 
 lar proceedings, and produced the apparent incongruity in his depofition, but that 
 the true meaning and intent was to exprefs his abfolute uncertainty whether the 
 alarm • arofe from thieves or wild beafts, and nothing farther ; and that from 
 
 *« fuch
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 375 
 
 the children, for the fins of the fathers, unto the third and 
 fourth generation, a fentimcnt however which, it would feem, 
 lapfe of time had rendered lefs expedient, for the prophet Eze- 
 
 kiel, 
 
 fuch depofition he had never intentionally fvverved in the courfe of the invefli- 
 gation. 
 
 According, tlierefore, to the amendment fuggefted by the fupreme tribunal, it 
 appears indeed, that when the noife was firft perceived in the fields, She-fo-pao had 
 called out, and on being prevented by the wind from hearing a reply, had taken 
 alarm as aforefaid^ 
 
 And vs-hereas it was likewife depofed by Shc-fo-poa, That the grain being ripe at that 
 feafon, the ftems were exceeding high and ftrong, fo as to render it difficult to walk 
 \ amongft them, it feems that Vang-yung-man, in walking through the corn, had pro- 
 duced a ruftling noife very audible to She-fo-pao, who was fitting on the declivity 
 of the hill, and in a diredlion in which the wind favoured the progrefs of the found- 
 but when the latter called out, the wind, on the contrary, prevented hi m from be- 
 ing heard, and confequently from receiving an anfwer; this mifchance, therefore, 
 gave rife to his fufpicion of the approach of wild beads, which appears to have been 
 the fole and undifguifed motive for firing the gun. 
 
 This ftatement of fadls being narrowly inveftigated, in compliance with the fu- 
 preme tribunal's order for revifal, may be confided in as accurate, and worthy of 
 credit; the refult, therefore, is that the offender during the darknefs of the night, 
 and under the apprehenfion of the approach of a wolf or tyger, had fired a mufquet 
 in a fpot frequented by men, and had mortally wounded a man by the mifchance, 
 which correfponds with the law fuggefted in the order for revifal iflued by the fu- 
 preme tribunal ; namely, that law againft an. offender who fhould unwarily draw a 
 bow and (hoot an arrow towards fields or tenements, fo that any perfon unperceivcd 
 therein Ihould be wounded and die therefrom. 
 
 The prior decifion, conformably to the law againft homicide committed in an 
 affray, fubfequent Inveftigation does not confirm ; and She-fo-pao is, therefore, only 
 punifhable with banifiiment. 
 
 This fecond report being received by the fupreme criminal tribunal, they declare 
 that, 
 
 The fentence having been altered on a revifion by the fub-viceroy, and rendered 
 conformable to the law, which ordains that, whoever fiiall unwarily drav a bow and 
 
 flioof
 
 376 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 kicl, wlio on this l'ubje£t had more elevated notions of nioral 
 right than elt'aer the Greeks or the Chinefe, fpurns it with 
 great indignation. In allufion to fuch an idea, which it feems 
 had become a proverb among the Jews, he breaks out into this 
 iublime exclamation : " What mean ye that ye ufe this pro- 
 " verb concerning the land of lirael, faying, The fathers have 
 " eaten four grapes, and the children's teeth are fet on edge ? 
 " As I live, faith the Lord, ye (hall not have occafion any 
 " more to ufe this proverb in Ifrael. Behold all fouls are 
 " mine; as the foul of the father, fo alfo the foul of the fon, is 
 " mine. The foul that finneth, it (hall die. The fon (hall not 
 " bear the iniquity of the father, neither fhall the father bear 
 " the inquity of the fon : the rlghteoufnefs of the righteous 
 " fliall be upon him, and the wickednefs of the wicked fliall be 
 *' upon him" 
 
 In moft caufes, except thofe of high treafon, it may be pre- 
 fumed, the high tribunal of Pekin will a£t with ftridl impar- 
 
 ftioot an arrow towards fields or tenements, fo that any perfon unperceived therein 
 may be wounded, and die therefrom, the offender fliall receive a hundred blows 
 with the bamboo, and fuffer banifhment to the diftance of 3000 lys. 
 
 We confirm the fentence of a hundred blows of the bamboo, and banifhment to 
 the diftance of 3000 lys; and further prefcribe, that ten ounces of filver (3/. 6s. id.) 
 ftiall be paid by the offender to the relations of the deceafed for the expences of 
 burial. 
 
 The fentence, being thus pronounced on the 19th day of the 5th moon, of the 
 27th year oi Kien-Long, received the Imperial fanfliion on the 21ft day of the fame 
 moon, in the following words : Purfiiant to fentence be this obeyed. 
 
 KHIN-TSE. 
 
 tiality.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 377 
 
 tiality. And It is greatly to be lamented, that all civil caufes 
 have not been made fubjedl to a fnnilar revifion as thofe of a 
 criminal nature, which would ftrike at the root of an evil that 
 is moft grievoufly felt in China, where the officers of juftice are 
 known, in moll cafes, to be corrupted by bribery. They have, 
 however, wifely feparated the office of judge from that of the 
 leglfiator. The former, having found the faift, has only to re- 
 fer to the code of laws, in v/hich he is fupplied with a fcale of 
 crimes and their punifliments. Such a mode of diftributing 
 juftice is not however without its inconveniences. Tender as 
 the government has (hewn Itfelf, where the life of a fubje£l is 
 concerned, having once eftabliffied the proportion of punifh- 
 ment to the offence it has fuppofed an appeal, in civil 
 caufes and mifdemeanors, to be unneceflary. The fentence in 
 fuch caufes being thus left in the breaft of a fingle judge, how 
 great foever riiay be the nicety by which the penalty is adapted 
 to the offence, the exclufion from appeal is in itfelf a bar to the 
 juft and impartial adminiftration of the laws. The fubjeifl be- 
 ing refufed the benefit of carrying his caufe into a higher, and 
 on that account more likely to be a more impartial, court, has 
 no fecurity againft the caprice, malice, or corruption of his 
 judge. . - 
 
 It may not perhaps be thought unworthy of notice that the 
 legiflators of China, among the various punifhments devifed for 
 the commiffion of crimes, have given the criminal no oppor- 
 tunity, either by labouring at any of the public works, or in 
 folitary confinement, to make fome reparation for the injury 
 he has committed againft fociety. Confinement in prifon, as a 
 
 3 c punifli-
 
 378 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 punifiiment, is not known. Exile or perfonal chaftlfement 
 are decreed for all irregularities not approaching to capital 
 offences. 
 
 Executions for capital crimes are not frequently exhibited j 
 when found guilty the criminals are remanded to prifon till a 
 general gaol delivery, which happens once a year, about the 
 autumnal equinox. In adopting fuch a meafure government 
 may perhaps have confidered, how little benefit the morals of 
 the people were likely to derive from being the frequent 
 fpedtators of the momentary pain that is required to take away 
 the exiftence of a fellow mortal. All other punifhments, how- 
 ever, that do not afFe£l the life of man, are made as public as 
 poffible, and branded with the greateft degree of notoriety. 
 The beating with the bamboo, in their ideas, fcarcely ranks 
 under the name of punifhment, being more properly confidered 
 as a gentle corredlion, to which no difgrace is attached ; but the 
 cangue or, as they term it, the tch'a^ a kind of v/alking pillorj^, 
 is a heavy tablet of wood, to which they are faftened by the 
 neck and hands, and which they are fometimes obliged to drag 
 about for weeks and months ; this is a terrible punifhment, 
 and well calculated to deter others from the commiflion of 
 thofe crimes of which it is the confequence, and the nature 
 of which is always infcribed in large charadlers upon it. 
 
 The order that is kept in their jails is faid to be excellent, 
 and the debtor and the felon are always confined in feparate 
 places ; as indeed one fhould fuppofe every where to be the 
 cafe, for, as Sir George Staunton has obferved, " To aflbciate 
 
 " guilt
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 3y9 
 
 " guilt with imprudence, and confound wlckednefs with mif- 
 " fortune, is impolitic, immoral, and cruel *." 
 
 The abominable pradlce of extorting confeflion by the ap- 
 plication of the torture is the worft part of the criminal laws 
 of China ; but they pretend to fay this mode is feldom recurred 
 to, unlefs in cafes where the guilt of the accufed has been made 
 to appear by flrong circumftantial evidence. It is however a 
 common punifhment to fqueeze the fingers in cafes of mifde- 
 meanour, and is particularly pradifed as a punifhment of thofe 
 females who purchafe licences for breaking through the rules 
 of chaftity. 
 
 By the laws relating to property, women in China, as in 
 ancient Rome, are excluded from inheriting, where there are 
 children, and from dlfpofing of property; but where there are 
 no male children a man may leave, by will, the whole of his 
 property to the widow. The reafon they affign for women 
 not inheriting is, that a woman can make no offering to deceafed 
 relations in the hall of anceftors ; and it is deemed one of the 
 firft ideal bleffings of life for a man to have fome one to look 
 up to, who will tranfmit his name to future ages, by perform- 
 ing, at certain fixed periods, the duties of this important 
 ceremony. All their laws Indeed refpeding property, as I 
 have already obferved, are infufficlent to give it that fecurity 
 and ftability which alone can conftitute the pleafure of accu- 
 mulating wealth. The avarice of men in power may overlook 
 thofe who are In moderate circumflances, but the affluent rarely 
 
 • A debtor is releafed when it appears that the whole of his propcrt/ hEjs. been. 
 j^iven up for the ufe of his creditors, ''' 
 
 3 c 2 cicape
 
 380 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 efcape their rapacious grafp. In a word, although tlie laws 
 are not fo perfe£t as to procure for the fubjedt general good, 
 yet neither are they fo defedive as to reduce him to that ftate 
 of general mifery, which could only be ternanated in a revo- 
 lution. The executive adminiftration is fo faulty, that the man 
 in office generally has it in his power to govern the laws, 
 which makes the meafure of good or evil depend greatly on his 
 moral charadter. 
 
 Such are indeed the difpofition and the habits of the people, 
 that fo long as the multitude can procure their bowl of rice 
 and a few favory fauces, that coft only a mere trifle, there will 
 be lefs danger of a revolt ; and the government is fo well con- 
 vinced of this, that one of its firft concerns is to lay up, in the 
 public magazines eredled in every part of the empire, a pro- 
 vifion of grain, to ferve as a fupply for the poor in times of 
 famine or fcarcity. In this age of revolutions, a change, how- 
 ever, feems to be taking place in the minds of the people, which 
 I fhall prefently notice. 
 
 The fyftem of univerfal and implicit obedience towards 
 fuperiors pervades every branch of the public fervice. The 
 officers of the feveral departments of government, from the firft 
 to the ninth degree, adting upon the fame broad bafis of 
 paternal authority, are inverted with the power of inflidling the 
 fummary puniftiment of the bamboo, on all occafions where 
 they may judge it proper, which, under the denomination of 
 a fatherly corrcftion, they adminifter without any previous 
 trial, or form of inquiry. The flighteft offence is punifhable 
 in this manner, at the will or the caprice of the loweft ma- 
 
 giftrate.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 381 
 
 giftrate. Such a fummary proceeding of the powerful againft 
 the weak naturally creates in the latter a dread and diftruft of 
 the former ; and the common people, accordingly, regard the 
 approach of a man in office, juft as fchoolboys obferve the 
 motions of a fevere mafter ; but the fatherly kindnefs of the 
 Emperor is recognifed even in punifhment ; the culprit may 
 claim the exenjption of every fifth blow as the Emperor's coup' 
 de-grace ; but in all probability he gains little by fuch remiffion, 
 as the deficiency in number may eafily be made up in weight. 
 
 This pradtical method of evincing a fatherly affedlion is not 
 confined to the multitude alone, but is extended to every rank 
 and defcription of perfons, ceafing only at the foot of the 
 throne. Each officer of ftate, from the ninth degree upwards 
 to the fourth, can, at any time, adminifter a gentle corredion 
 to his inferior ; and the Emperor orders the bamboo to his 
 minifters, and to the other four clafies, whenever he may think 
 it neceflary for the good of their morals. It is well known 
 that the late Kien Long caufed two of his fons to be bambooed 
 - long after they had arrived at the age of maturity, one of which, 
 I believe, is the prefent reigning Emperor, 
 
 In travelling through the country, a day feldom efcaped 
 without our witneffing the application of the Fan-tse, or bam- 
 boo, and generally in fuch a manner that it might be called by 
 any other name except di gentle corredlion. A Chinefe fuffering 
 under this punilhment cries out in the moft piteous manner • 
 a Tartar bears it in filence. A Chinefe, after receiving a cer- 
 tain number of ftrokes, falls down on his knees, as a matter 
 
 3 of
 
 2ti TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 of courfe, before him who ordered the puniQiment, thanking 
 him, in the moft humble manner, for the fatherly kindnefs he 
 has teftified towards his fon, in thus putting him in mind of 
 his errors; a Tartar grumbles, and difputes the point as to the 
 right that a Chinefe may have to flog him ; or he turns away in 
 fallen filcncc. 
 
 Ridiculous as it may appear to a foreigner, in obferving an 
 oflBcer of ftate ftretching hirafelf along the ground for the pur- 
 pofe of being flogged by order of another who happens to rank 
 one degree above him ; yet it is impofl^ble, at the fame time, 
 to fupprefs a glow of indignation, in witnefllng fo mean and 
 obfequious a degradation of the human mind, which can bring 
 itfelf, under any circumftances, patiently to fubmlt to a vile 
 corporal punifliment, adminiftered by the hand of a flave, or by 
 a common foldier ; and when this is done, to undergo the ftill 
 more vile and humiliating a£t of kiffing the rod that correds 
 him. But the policy of the government has taken good care 
 to remove any fcruples that might arife on this fcore. Where 
 paternal I'egard was the fole motive, fuch a chafi:ifement could 
 not pofTibly be followed with difhonour or difgrace. It was a 
 wonderful point gained by the government, to fubje£l every 
 individual, the Emperor only excepted, to the fame corporal 
 corfeftion ; but it muft have required great addrefs, and men's 
 minds mufl: have been completely fubdued, or completely con- 
 vinced, before fuch a fyftem of univerfal obedience could have 
 been accomplifhed, the confequence of which, it was obvious, 
 could be no other than univerfal fervility. It could not fail to 
 eftablifla a moll effedual check againft the complaints of the 
 
 multitude,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 383 
 
 multitude, by fhewing them that the fame man, who had the 
 power of puniftiing them, was equally liable to be corrected in 
 his turn, and in the fame manner, by another. The punifh- 
 ment of the bamboo muft, I fufpecfi, be one of the moft ancient 
 inftitutions of China. Indeed we can fcarcely conceive it 
 ever to have been introduced into a fociety already civilized ; 
 but rather to have been coeval with the origin of that fociety. 
 
 A fimilar kind of perfonal chaflifement for light offences, 
 or mifcondudl, was infliiled in Ruffia on perfons of all ranks, 
 but with this difference, that the corredion was private and 
 by order of the Sovereign alone. The Czar Peter, indeed, 
 generally beftowed a drubbing on his courtiers with his own 
 hand ; who, inftead of being difhonoured or difgraced by fuch, 
 a caftigation, were fuppofed, from that very circumftance, to 
 be his particular favourites, and to ftand high in his confidence. 
 The great Mentzikoff is faid to have frequently left his clofet 
 with a black eye or a bloody nofe ; and feemed to derive en- 
 creafing importance from the unequivocal marks of his mafter's 
 friendship. Even at the prefent day, or till very lately, little 
 difgrace was attached to the punifhment of the knout, which was 
 a private flagellation by order of the court ; but this abominable 
 practice either is altogether difcontinued, or in its laft ftage of 
 exiftence. Such arbitrary proceedings could not long remain 
 in force among an enlightened people. 
 
 Thefe two great empires, the greatefl: indeed that exlH: in' 
 the world, dividing between them nearly a fifth part of the 
 whole habitable globe, each about a tenth, exhibit a fingular dif- 
 ference
 
 ^84 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ference with regard to political circumfl-ances. One century 
 ago Ruffia was bat juft emerging from a ftate of barbarifm, 
 and in a century hence, in all human probability, (he will 
 make a confpicuous figure among European nations, both 
 in arts and arms. Two thoufand years ago China was civilized 
 to the fame degree, or nearly fo, that flie is at prefent. The 
 governments were both arbitrary, and the people were flaves. 
 The natural genius of the Ruflian, cramped perhaps in fome 
 degree by his frozen climate, is lefs fufceptible of improvement 
 than that of the Chinefe. Whence then, it may be afked, pro- 
 ceeds the very great difference in the progreflive improvement 
 of the two nations ? principally, I fhould fuppofe, from the 
 two following reafons. Ruffia invites and encourages foreigners 
 to inftru£l her fubjefls in arts, fciences, and manufactures. 
 .China, from a fpirit of pride and felf-importance, as well as 
 from jealoufy, rejects and expels them. The language of 
 Ruffia is eafiiy acquired, and her fubjedis as eafily learn thofe 
 of other countries, whilft that of China is fo difficult, or their 
 method of learning it fo defective, as to require the ftudy of 
 half the life of man to fit him for any of the ordinary employ- 
 ments of the ftate, and they have no knowledge of any lan- 
 guage but their own. The one is in a ftate of youthful vigour, 
 advancing daily in ftrength and knowledge ; the other is worn 
 out with old age and difeafe, and under its prefent ftate of 
 exiftence is not likely to advance in any kind of improve- 
 ment. 
 
 To the principle of univerfal obedience the Chinefe govern- 
 ment has added another, which is well calculated to fatisfy 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 385 
 
 the public mind : the firft honours and the higheft offices are 
 open to the very loweft of the people. It admits of no here- 
 ditary nobility ; at leaft none with exclufive privileges. As a 
 mark of the Sovereign's favour a diftindlion will fometimes 
 defcend in a family, but, as it confers no power nor privilege 
 nor emolument, it foon wears out. All dignities may be con- 
 fidered as merely perfonal ; the princes of the blood, even, 
 fink gradually into the common mafs, unlefs their talents and 
 their application be fufficient to qualify them for office, inde- 
 pendent of which there can be neither rank nor honours, and 
 very little if any diftindion, not even in the imperial family, 
 beyond the third generation. On public days the Emperor, 
 at a fingle glance, can diftinguifli the rank of each of the many 
 thoufand courtiers that are affembled on fuch occafions by their 
 drefs of ceremony. The civilians have a bird, and the military 
 ^ ^yg^'"} embroidered on the breaft and back of their upper 
 robe ; and their feveral ranks are pointed out by different 
 coloured globes, mounted on a pivot on the top of the cap or 
 bonnet. The Emperor has alfo two orders of difl;In£tion, which 
 are conferred by him alone, as marks of particular favour j the 
 order of the yellow veft and of the peacock's feather. 
 
 The influence that, in nations of Europe, is derived from 
 birth, fortune, and charadler, is of no weight in the Chinefe 
 government. The moft learned, and I have already explained 
 how far the term extends, provided he be not of notorious bad 
 charader, is fure to be employed ; though under the prefent 
 Tartar government, the Chinefe complain that they never arrive 
 at the higheft rank till they are advanced in years. Learning 
 
 3 D alone,
 
 386 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 alone, by the ftri£t maxims of ftate, leads to office, and office 
 to diftin«5lion. Property, without learning, has little weight, and 
 confers no diftin£tion, except in fome corrupt provincial go- 
 vernments, where the external marks of office are fold, as in 
 Canton. Hence property is not fo much an obje£t of the laws 
 in China as elfewhere, and confequently has not the fame fecu- 
 rity. In the governments of Europe, property feldom fails to 
 command influence and to force dependence : in China, the 
 man of property is afraid to own it, and all the enjoyments it 
 procures him are flolen. 
 
 Sometimes, mdeed, the higheft appointments in the ftate are 
 conferred, as it happens elfewhere, by fome favourable acci- 
 dent, or by the caprice of the monarch. A ftriking inftance: 
 of this kind was difplayed in the perfon o^ Ho-tchimgrtang, the 
 laft prime minifter of the late Kicn-long. This man, a Tartar, 
 happened to be placed on guard in the palace, where his youtli- 
 and comely countenance ftruck the Emperor fo forcibly in paf- 
 fmg, that he fent for him to the prefence ; and finding him 
 equally agreeable in his converfation and manners, he raifed 
 him rapidly, but gradually, from the fituation of a common 
 foldier, to the higheft ftation in the empire. Such fudden 
 changes, from a ftate of nothingnefs to the fummit of power, 
 have frequently been obferved to be attended with confequences 
 no lefs fatal to the man fo elevated, than pernicious to the 
 public : and thus it happened to this favourite minifter. During 
 the life of his old mafter, over whom, in his later years, he i& 
 faid to have pofl!effed an unbounded influence, he availed him- 
 felf of the means that offered, by every fpecies of fraud and ex- 
 tortion.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^ 
 
 tortlon, by tyranny and oppreflion, to amafs fuch immenfe 
 wealth in gold, filver, pearls, and immoveable property, that 
 his acquifitions were generally allowed to have exceeded thofe 
 of any fingle individual, that the hiftory of the country had 
 made known. His pride and haughty demeanor had rendered 
 him fo obnoxious to the royal family that, at the time we were 
 in Pekin, it was generally fuppofed, he had made up his mind to 
 die with the old Emperor, for which event he had always at hand 
 a dofe of poifon, not chufing to ftand the fevere inveftigation 
 which he was well aware the fucceeding prince would direct to 
 be made into his minifterlal condudl. It feems, however, when 
 that event adually happened, the love of life, and the hope of 
 efcaping, prevailed on hina to change his purpofe and to ftand 
 the hazard of a trial. Of the crimes and enormities laid to his 
 charge he was found, or rather he was faid to have pleaded, 
 guilty. The vaft wealth he had extorted from others was con- 
 fifcated to the crown, and he was condemned to fuffer an igno- 
 minious death *. 
 
 But 
 
 * Th« circnmftances attending the tlownfal of this minifler are curious, and fhew, 
 in its true light, the defpotic nature of the Chinefe government, notwithftanding 
 their falutary laws. The new Emperor, determined on his ruin, makes a public de- 
 claration wherein, after apologizing for not abftaining agreeably to the laws of the 
 empire from all aifls of innovation, for the fpace of three years after his father's 
 death, he obferves, that the crimes and exceffes oi Ho-tchungtang are of fb horrid a 
 nature, as to preclude him from afting towards him with any pity or indulgence. 
 He then exhibits about twenty articles of accufotion againft him, the principal of 
 which are. 
 
 Contumacy towards his father (the late Emperor) by riding on horfeback to the 
 very door of the hall of audience at Tuen-min-yiien. 
 
 Audacity, under pretence of lamenefs, in caufing himfelf to be carried to and from 
 the palace through the d9or fet apart for the Emperor. 
 
 3 t> 2 Scandahvi
 
 388 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 But Ho-tchung-tang, if guilty of inordinate ambition, or ails 
 ofinjuftice, is far from being the only inftance of fuch con- 
 duct in men thus raifed from humble fituations. The officers 
 
 of 
 
 Scandalous bthaviour, in taking away the virgins of the palace, and appropriating 
 them to his own ufe. 
 
 Pride and tnfolence, in countermanding his (the new Emperor's) order, for all the 
 princes of Tartary to be fummoaed to Pekin, thofe who had not had the fmall-pox 
 excepted, to affift at the funeral of his father, and by iiTuing a new one, in which 
 none were excepted. 
 
 Bribery and partiality, in felling and giving away appointments of weight to perfoiis 
 totally unqualified to fill them. 
 
 Arrogance, in making ufe of the wood Nan-moo (cedar) in his houfe, which is def- 
 lined txclufively for royal palaces ; and in building a houfe and gardens in the ftyle 
 and manner of thofe belonging to the Emperor. 
 
 For having in his poffeflion more than two hundred firings of pearls, and an immenfe 
 quantity of jewels and precious ftones, which his rank did not allow him to wear, 
 and among which was a pearl of fuch wonderful magnitude, that the Emperor him- 
 felf had no equal to it. 
 
 For having in gold and filver alone, which has been already difcovered and con- 
 fifcated, the amount, at leaft, of ten million taels (about 3,300,00c/. flerling). 
 
 One article is Angularly curious. For having been guilty of the deeped treachery 
 in informing him (the new Emperor) of hisfather's intention to abdicate the govern- 
 ment in his (the new Emperor's) favour, one day before his father made it public, 
 thinking by fuch means to gain his favour and affedlion ! 
 
 After enumerating the feveral articles of accufation, the Emperor ffates, that this 
 minifter being interrogated by a Tartar prince on the feveral points, had confeffed 
 the whole to be true, and, therefore, without further evidence, he com^mands the 
 prefidents and members of the feveral courts in Pekin, the viceroys of provinces, and 
 governors of cities, on thefe articles of accufation being laid before them, to pafs a 
 proper fentence on the faid Ho-tchung-tang. According to the majority, he was con- 
 demned to be beheaded ; but as a peculiar aft of grace and benevolence on the part 
 of the Emperor, this fentence was mitigated to that of his being allowed to be his 
 own executioner. A filken cord being fent as an intimation of this mark of the Enx- 
 peror's favour, he caufed himfelf to be ftrangled by fome of his attendants. 
 
 Who
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 389 
 
 of government in general, though intended by the conftitution 
 as a kind of barrier between the prince and the people, are the 
 greateft opprefTors of the latter, who have feldom any means of 
 redrefs, or of conveying their complaints to the Imperial ear. 
 There is no middle clafs of men in China : men whofe pro- 
 perty and ideas of independence give them weight in the part 
 of the country where they refide ; and whofe influence and in- 
 tereft are confidered as not below the notice of the government. 
 In fadl, there are no other than the governors and the governed. 
 If a man, by trade, or induftry in his profeflion, has accumu- 
 lated riches, he can enjoy them only in private. He dares not, 
 by having a grander houfe, or finer clothes, to let his neighbour 
 perceive that he is richer than himfelf, left he fhould betray 
 him to the commanding officer of the diftridl, who would find 
 no difficulty in bringing him within the pale of the fumptuary 
 laws, and in laying his property under confifcation. 
 
 Sometimes, indeed, the extortions that the officers pradtife 
 upon the people, as in the cafe of Ho-tchung-tang^ meet the 
 hand of juftice. Other magiftrates keep a fteady eye upon their 
 proceedings, and, in proper time, tranfmit the neceffiary infor- 
 mation to court. Spies alfo are detached from court into the 
 
 Who could efcape when the Emperor of China is himfelf the accufer ? It will readi- 
 ly occur, from the fate oi He-uhung-tang, that there is not that line of independence 
 drawn between the executive and juridical authority, which the ingenious author of the 
 Spiritof Laws has clearly proved to be the grand foundation of a juft, legal, and 
 efficient fecurity of the life and property of the fubje^. In faft, in all ft:;te crimes, 
 the Emperor becomes both the accufer and the judge. In the cafe of Ho-uhun^-iang 
 he may likewife be faid to have been the only evidence. 
 
 3 provinces,
 
 390 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 provinces, under th« name of infpedors. Jealous of each 
 other, they let no opportunity flip of making unfavourable re- 
 ports to their fuperiors. Notwithftanding which, w^ith all the 
 precautions taken by government in favour of the fubje£t, the 
 latter finds himfelf moft dreadfully opprelGTed. It is true, for 
 very flight offences preferred againft men in office, the court 
 diredbs a public reprimand in the official Gazette ; for thofe of 
 a more ferious nature, degradation from rank ; and every of- 
 ficer fo degraded is under the neceffity of proclaiming his own 
 difgrace in all his public orders ; not only to put him in mind 
 of his paft conduct, but likewife to fhew the people how watch- 
 ful the eye of government is over the actions of its fervants. 
 The laft ftage of public degradation, which amounts to a fen- 
 tence of Infamy, is an order to fuperintend the preparation of 
 the Emperor's tomb, which implies that the perfon fo fen- 
 tenced is more fit to be employed among the dead than the liv- 
 ing. Tchang-ta-ghiy the late viceroy of Canton, was condemned 
 to this degrading fervice *. 
 
 The viceroy of a province can remain in that office no lon- 
 ger than three years, left he might obtain an undue influence. 
 No fervant of the crown can form a family alliance in the place 
 where he commands, nor obtain an office of importance in the 
 eity or town wherein he was born. Yet with thefe, and other 
 precautions, there is ftill little fecurity for the fubjedt. He has 
 no voice whatfoever in the government, either directly or by 
 
 * Among the various cuftoms of China, particularized in the accounts of the two 
 Mahoniedan travellers in the ninth century, this remarkable one is noticed, afford- 
 ing, with the reft, equally iingular and peculiar to tJiis nation, an irrefragable proof 
 of tile autbenticity of thefe two relations. 
 
 repre-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 391 
 
 reprefentation ; and the only fatisfadion he polTibly can receive 
 for injuries done to him, and that is merely of a negative kind, 
 is the degradation or the removal of the man in power, who 
 had been his oppreflbr, and who perhaps may be replaced by an- 
 other equally bad. 
 
 The ingenious Mr. Pauw has obferved, that China Is entire- 
 ly governed by the whip and the bamboo. To thefe he might 
 have added the yearly calendar and the Pekin Gazette, both of 
 which, as engines in the hands of government, contribute very 
 materially to affift its operations. By the circulation of the firfl 
 is kept alive the obfervance of certain fuperftitions which it 
 is, apparently, the fludy of government to encourage. The 
 fecond is a vehicle for conveying into every corner of the em- 
 pire the virtues and the fatherly kindnefs of the reigning fove- 
 reign, {hewn by punifliing the officers of his government, not 
 only for what they have done amifs, but for what they may have 
 omitted to do. Thus, if a famine has defolated any of the pro- 
 vinces, the principal officers are degraded for not having taken 
 the proper precautions againft it. This paper, in the fhape of 
 a fmall pamphlet, is publifhed every fecond day. The miC- 
 fionaries have pretended that immediate death would be the 
 confequence of inferting a falfehood in the Imperial Gazette. 
 Yet it is famous for defcribing battles that were never 
 fought, and for announcing victories that were never gained. 
 The truth of this obfervation appears from feveral proclama- 
 tions of Kaung-Jhee^ T'chien Long, and the prefent Emperor, 
 warning the generals on diftant flations from making falfe re- 
 
 portSj
 
 392 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ports, and from killing tlioufan'ds and ten thoufands of the ene- 
 my, fometimes even when no engagement had taken place *. 
 The reverend gentlemen only mean to fay, that the editor vrould 
 be punilhed if he ventured to iafert any thing not fent to hun 
 officially by the government. 
 
 The prefs in China is as free as in England, and the profef- 
 fion of printing open to every one, which is a fingular circum- 
 ftance, and perhaps the only inftance of the kind, in a defpotic 
 government. It has ufually been fuppofed that, in free coun- 
 tries only where every peribn is equally under the prote(ftlon, 
 and equally liable to the penalties, of the law, the liberty of the 
 prefs could be cherifhed ; and that it was a thing next to im- 
 poffible, that power, founded on error and fupported by op- 
 preffion, could long be maintained where the prefs was free. It 
 was the prefs that in Europe effedled the ruin of priefdy power, 
 by dlfpelling the clouds that had long obfcured the rays of 
 truth ; and by opening a free accefs to the dodrines of that re- 
 ligion which, of all others, is heft calculated for the promotion 
 
 of individual happinefs and public virtue f. 
 
 In 
 
 • The words of Kaung-Jhee\ proclamation, repeated by Kia-h'tng, are : " At pre- 
 '• fent v?hen an army is fent on any military fervice, every report that is made of 
 " its operations, contains an account of a vidory, of rebels difperfed at the firft en- 
 •' counter, driven from their ftations, killed, and wounded, to a .qreat amount, or to 
 "the amount of feme thoufands, or, in Ihort, that the rebeib flain were innumerable." 
 
 rehn Gazette, 7\Jl July, 180O. 
 
 f When the art of printing was firft introduced into England, and carried on in 
 Weftminfter Abbey, a ihrewd churchman is faid to have obferved to the Abbot of 
 Weftminfter, " If you don't take care to deftroy that machine, it will veryfoon de- 
 " ftroy your trade." He faw at a fingle glance of the prefs, the downfal of prieftly 
 
 dominion
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 393 
 
 In China the liberty of the prefs feems to excite no appre- 
 henfions in the government. The fummary mode of punifh- 
 ing any breach of good morals, without the formality of a trial, 
 makes a pofitive prohibition againft printing unneceffary, being, 
 itfelf fufficient to reftrain the licentioufnefs of the prefs. The 
 printer, the vender, and the reader of any libellous publication, 
 are all equally liable to be flogged with the bamboo. Few, I 
 fuppofe, would be hardy enough to print reflexions on the con- 
 dud of government, or its principal officers, as fuch publica- 
 tions would be attended with certain ruin. Yet, notwithftand- 
 ing all the dangers to which the printing profeffion is liable, 
 daily papers are publillied in the capital, circulating, fomething 
 like our own, private anecdotes, domellic occurrences, public 
 notices of fales, and the wonderful virtues of quack medicines. 
 We were told that, in one of thefe papers, the Portuguefe mif- 
 fionary mentioned in Mr. Grammont's letter got a paragraph 
 Infertcd, purporting the great negled of the Englifli in having 
 brought no prefents for the princes of the blood, nor for the 
 Emperor's minifters. This falfe and malicious paragraph was 
 faid to be followed by another, infmuating that thofe for the 
 Emperor were common articles of little value. Another pre- 
 tended to give a catalogue of them, and included an elephant 
 about the fize of a rat, giants, dwarfs, wifiiing pillows, and 
 fuch like nonfenfe. Thefe, however, and other publications, 
 
 Jominion in ihe general difTufion of knowledge that would be occafioned by it, and 
 had the reft of the clergy been equally clear-fighted, it is probable the dark ages of 
 fuperftition and ignorance had ftill continued, or at Icaft had been greatly pro- 
 tri'.fted. 
 
 3 E were
 
 394 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 were induflrioufly kept fiom our fight. Under tlie generous 
 idea of being the Emperor's guells, we were not allowed to 
 purchafe any thing. He alone was to fupply our wants, but 
 his officers took the liberty of judging what thefe wants fhould 
 confift in. 
 
 It is a fingular phenomenon in the hlflory of nations, how 
 the government of an empire, of fuch vaft magnitude as that of 
 China, fhould have preferved its ftability without any material 
 change, for more than two thoufand years ; for, dropping their 
 pretenfions to an extravagant antiquity, for which however 
 they have fome grounds, there can he no doubt they were 
 pretty much in the fame ftate, regulated by the fame laws, and 
 under the fame form of government as they now are, four hun- 
 dred years before the birth of Chrift, about which time their 
 renowned philofopher flourifhed, whofe works are ftill held on 
 the higheft reputation. They contain indeed all the maxims in 
 which their government is fliill grounded, and all the rules by 
 which the different ftations of life take their moral conduct; and 
 the monarchy is fuppofed to have been eftabliftied two thoufand 
 years before his time. 
 
 If the teft of a good government be made to depend on the 
 length of its continuance, unfhaken and unchanged by revolu- 
 tions, China may certainly be allowed to rank the firft among 
 civilized nations. But, whether good or bad, it has poflefled 
 the art of moulding the multitude to its own fhape in a manner 
 unprecedented in the annals of the world. Various accidents, 
 improved by policy, feem to have led to its durability. Among 
 
 thefe
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^95 
 
 thefe the natural barriers of the country, exchuling any foreign 
 enemy, are not to be reckoned as the leall favourable ; whilft 
 the extreme caution of the government in admllting ftrangers 
 kept the world in ignorance, for many ages, of the exiflence even 
 of the moft extenfive, powerful, and populous empire among 
 men. Secluded thus from all intercourfe with the reft of the 
 ■world, it had time and leizure to mould its own fubjeds into 
 the (hape it wiflied them to retain ; and the event has fufficient- 
 ly proved its knowledge in this refpeiSl. 
 
 A number of fortunate • circumftances, feldom combined in 
 the fame country, have contributed to the prefervation of inter- 
 nal tranquillity in China. The language is of a nature well cal- 
 culated to keep the mafs of the people in a ftate of ignorance. 
 They are neither prohibited from embracing any religion of 
 which they may make a choice, nor coerced to contribute to- 
 wards the fupport of one they do not approve. The pains that 
 have been taken to inculcate fober habits, to deftroy mutual 
 confidence, and render every man referved and fufpicious of his 
 neighbour, could not fail to put an end to focial intercourfe. 
 No meetings were held, even for convivial purpofes, beyond 
 the family circle, and thefe only at the feftival of new year. 
 Thofe kind of turbulent affemblies, where real or imagined 
 grievances are dlfculTed with all the rancour and violence that 
 malicious infinuatlons agalnft government, added to the effedts 
 of intoxicating draughts, too frequently infpire, never happen 
 among the Chinefe. Contented in having no voice in the go- 
 vernment, it has never occurred to them that they have any 
 
 3^2 rights.
 
 396 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 rights * : and they certainly enjoy none but what are liable to 
 be invaded and trampled on, whenever the fovereign, or any 
 of his reprefentatives, from intereft, malice, or caprice, think 
 fit to exercife the power that is within their grafp. The doc- 
 trine of employing refiftence againft oppreffion, applied to the 
 people and the government, is fo contrary to every fentiment 
 of the former, that the latter has little to fear on that fcore. 
 
 Partial infurredions occafionally happen, but they are gene- 
 rally owing to the extreme poverty of the people which, in 
 feafons of fcarcity and famine, compels them to take by violence 
 the means of fubfifting life, which otherwife they could not 
 obtain. To this caufe may be referred the origin of almoft all 
 the commotions recorded in their hiftory, through fome of 
 which, when the calamity became general, the regular fuccef- 
 fion has been interrupted, and even changed. We were told, 
 however, by our Chinefe attendants, that certain myfterious 
 focietles did exift in fome of the provinces, whofe chief obje£t 
 was to overturn the Tartar government ; that they held fecret 
 
 * When the mifchievous docflrines of Tom Paine, expounded in his " Rights of 
 " Man," were tranfiated into various languages, and induftrioufly attempted to be 
 propagated among the eaftern nations, by means of French emiflaries ; when one 
 of thofe affidtious difturbers of the peace of mankind had aftually fucceeded in fur- 
 niflilng the Seiks with an abftraft of this precious work in their own language, he next 
 turned his attention to the vafl empire of China, a glorious theatre for thofe zealous 
 cofmopolites to play their parts in, if they could once contrive to fuit their drama to 
 the tafte of the people. The experiment, however, failed of fuccefs. The golden 
 opinions of Tom Paine could not be transfufed into the Chinefe language ; and thefe 
 unfortunate people underllood no other but their own ; fo that three hundred and 
 thirtj'-three millions were doomed to remain in ignorance and mifery on account of 
 their language being incapable of conveying the enlightened doiflrines of Tom Paine, 
 
 I meetings,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 397 
 
 meetings, in which they gave vent to their complaints againfl 
 Tartar preponderancy, revived the memory of ancient glory, 
 brooded over prefent injuries, and meditated revenge. If even 
 this be the cafe, the prefent ftate of fociety is little favourable to 
 their views. Nor indeed would a revolution be a defirable event 
 for theChinefe themfelves. It could not fail of being attended with 
 the moft horrible confequences. The Tartar foldiers would be 
 tired with flaying, and millions that efcaped the fword mud 
 neceflarily perifh by famine, on the leaft interruption of 
 the ufual purfuits of agriculture ; for they have no other coun- 
 try to look to for fupplies, and they raife no furplus quantity in 
 their own. 
 
 In order to prevent as much as poflible a fcarcity of grain, 
 and in conformity to their opinion, that the true fource of na- 
 tional wealth and profperity confifts in agriculture, the Chinefe 
 government has in all ages beftowed the firft honours on every 
 improvement in this branch of induftry. The hufbandman is 
 confidered as an honourable, as well as ufeful, member of fociety ; 
 he ranks next to men of letters, or officers of ftate, of whom in- 
 deed he is frequently the progenitor. The foldier in China 
 cultivates the ground. The priefts alfo are agriculturifts, when- 
 ever their convents are endowed with land. The Emperor is 
 confidered as the fole proprietary of the foil, but the tenant is 
 never turned out of poflTeffion as long as he continues to pay his 
 rent, which is calculated at about one-tenth of what his farm 
 is fuppofed capable of yielding ; and though the holder of lands 
 can only be confidered as a tenant at will, yet it is his own fault 
 if he Ihould be difpofl*e{red. So accuftomed are the Chinefe 
 -i to
 
 398 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 to confider an eftate as their ov/n, while they continue to pay 
 the rent, that a Portuguefe in Macao had nearly lofl: his life 
 for endeavouring to raife the rent upon his Chinefe tenants. If 
 any one happens to hold more than his family can conveniently 
 cultivate, he lets it out to another on condition of receiving half 
 the produce, out of which he pays the whole of the Emperor's 
 taxes. A great part of the poorer peafantry cultivate lands on 
 thefe terms. 
 
 There are, in fa£l, no immenfe eftates grafplng nearly the 
 whole of a diftricl ; no monopolizing farmers, nor dealers In 
 grain. Every one can bring his produce to a free and open 
 market. No fifheries are let out to farm. Every fubjeft is 
 equally entitled to the free and uninterrupted enjoyment of 
 the fea, of the coafts, and the eftuaiies ; of the lakes and rivers. 
 There are no manor lords with exclufive privileges; no lands 
 fet apart for feeding beafts or birds for the profit or pleafure of 
 particular perfons ; every one may kill game on his own grounds, 
 and on the public commons. Yet with all thefe feeming ad- 
 vantages, there are rarely three fucceffive years without a fa- 
 mine in one province or another. 
 
 As in the Roman Empire examples were not wanting of the 
 firft charaders in the ftate glorying to put their hands to the 
 plough, to render the earth fertile, and to engage in the natural 
 employment of man ; as, 
 
 In ancient times the facred plough employ'd. 
 The kings and awful fathers, 
 
 So,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 399 
 
 So, in China, the Emperor at the vernal equinox, after 
 a folemn offering to the God of Heaven and Earth, goes 
 through the ceremony of holding the plough, an example in 
 which he is followed by the viceroys and governors and great 
 officers in every part of the empire. This ceremony, though, 
 in all probability, the remains of a religious inftitution, is well 
 calculated to give encouragement to^ the labouring peafantry, 
 whofe profeffion, thus honourably patronized, cannot fail to be 
 purfued with more energy and cheerfulnefs than where it re- 
 ceives no fuch marks of diilindion. Here merchants, tradef- 
 men, and mechanics, are confidered far beneath the hufband- 
 man. So far from obtaining the honours attendant on com- 
 merce in the ancient city of Tyre, " whofe merchants were 
 princes, whofe " traffickers were the honourable oftheeaith" — 
 or the ancient immunities granted in Alfred's reign, by which an 
 Englilh merchant, who had made three foreign voyages by fea, 
 was raifed to the rank of nobility, the man who, in China, en- 
 gages in foreign trade is confidered as little better than a vaga- 
 bond. The home trade only is fuppofed to be necelfary, and 
 deferving the proteclion of government. It allows all goods and 
 manufadures, the produce of the country, to be interchanged 
 between the feveral provinces, on payment only of a fmall tranfit 
 duty to the flate, and certain tolls on the canals and rivers, ap- 
 plied chiefly to the repairs of flood-gates, bridges, and embank- 
 ments. This trade, being carried on entirely by barter, employs 
 fuch a multitude of craft of one defcription or other, as to baffle 
 all attempts at a calculation. I firmly believe, that all the float- 
 ing veflTels in the world befides, taken colledively, would not be 
 equal either in number or tonnage to thofe of China. 
 
 Foreign
 
 4CO TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Foreign trade is barely tolerated. So very indifferent the 
 court of Pekin affeds to be on this fubjed, that it has been hinted, 
 on fome occafions, and indeed ferious apprehenfions have been 
 entertained in Europe, that they were half difpofed to fhut the 
 port of Canton againft foreigners. The treatment, indeed, which 
 ftrangers meet with at this place, from the inferior officers of 
 government, is of itfelf fufficient to exclude them, and fuch 
 as could only be tolerated in confideration of the importance 
 of the trade, and efpecially in the fupply of tea ; an article 
 which, from being about a century ago a luxury, is now be- 
 come, particularly in Great Britain, one of the firft ne- 
 ceffities of life. 
 
 The taxes raifed for the fupport of government are far from 
 being exorbitant or burthenfome to the fubjedl. They confift 
 in the tenth of the produce of the land paid ufually in kind, in a 
 duty on fait, on foreign imports, and a few fmaller taxes, that do 
 not materially affedl the bulk of the people. The total amount of 
 taxes and affeflments which each individual pays to the ftate, 
 taken on an average, does not exceed four (hillings a year. 
 
 With fuch advantages, unknown in moft other countries, and 
 fuch great encouragement given to agriculture, one would be led 
 to fuppofe that the condition of the poor mufl: be lefs expofed to 
 hardfhips here than elfewhere. Yet in years of fcarcity many 
 thcufands perifh from abfolute want of food. And fuch years 
 fo frequently occur in one province or another, either from 
 unfavourable feafons of drought or inundations, the ill effedts 
 of both of which might probably be counteraded by proper 
 
 management.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 4ot 
 
 management, or by a(i honeft application of the funis of money 
 voted for tlie purpofe out of the public revenue, that govern- 
 ment has feldom been able to lay up in ftore a fufEcient quan- 
 tity of grain to meet tlie neceflities of the people in feafons of 
 general calamity ; and they have no other relief to depend on 
 but this precarious fupply, feldom adminiftered with alacrity, 
 on account of the number of hands it has to pafs through. Tiiis 
 leads them to commit outrages againft their wealthier neigh- 
 bours. There are few public charities ; and it is not a com- 
 mon cuftom to afk alms. I did not obferve a fingle beggar 
 from one extremity of China to the other, except in the 
 ftreets of Canton. Nor are there any poor-laws griping the 
 lnduftrit)us hufbandman and labourer, to feed the lazy, and 
 to feaft thole who have the care of them ; no paupers of any 
 defcription, fupported from funds that have been levied on the 
 public. The children, if living and, if not, the next of kin, 
 muft take care of their aged relations ; and the parents difpofe 
 of their children in what manner they may think beft for the 
 family intereft. As feveral generations live together, they are 
 fubfifted at a much cheaper rate than if each had a feparate 
 houfehold. In cafes of real diftrefs the government is fuppofed 
 to adl the parent ; and its good intentions in this refpedt cannot 
 be called in queftion ; whenever it appears that any of its offi- 
 cers, through negle<fl or malice, have withheld grain from the 
 poor, they are puniftied with fmgular feverity,' fometimes even 
 with death. 
 
 Another great advantage enjoyed by the Chinefe fubje£t is, 
 that the am,punt of his taxes is afcertained. He is never re- 
 
 3 F quired
 
 402 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 quired to contribute, by any new afleflment, to make up 3> 
 given fum for the extraordinary expences of the ftate, except 
 in cafes of rebellion, when an additional tax is fometimcs im- 
 pofed on the neighbouring provinces. But in general the exe- 
 cutive government muft adapt its wants to the ordinary fupplies, 
 inftead of calling on the people for extraordinary contributions. 
 The amount of the revenues of this great empire has been dif- 
 ferently ftated. As the principal branch, the land-tax, is paid 
 in kind, it is indeed fearcely poflible to eftimate the receipt of 
 it accurately, as it will greatly depend on the ftate of the crop.. 
 An Emperor who aims at popularity never fails to remit this- 
 tax or rent, in fuch dlftrids as have fuffered by drought or 
 inundation. Chon-ta-gin gave to Lord Macartney, from the 
 Imperial rent-roll, a rough fketch of the fums railed in each 
 province, making them to amount in the whole to about fixty- 
 f}X millions fterling ; which is not more than twice the revenue 
 of the ftate in Great Britain, exclufive of the poor's-rate and 
 ether parochial taxes, in 1803, and which gives, as I before 
 ©bferved, if reduced to a capitation, the fum of about four 
 Shillings for each individual, whilft that of Great Britain, by 
 in analogous computation, would amount to about fifteen times 
 that fum. I fhould fuppofe, however, that a fliilling in China, 
 generally fpeaking, will go as far as three in Great Britain. 
 
 Ftohi the produce of the taxes the civil and military efta- 
 bliftiments, and all the incidental and extraordinary expences, 
 are firft paid on the fpot where they are incurred, out of the pro- 
 ■^incial magazines, atid the reniainder is remitted to the Imperial 
 ttfeafut-y in Pdkin to meet the expences of th^ court, the 
 
 eftablilhment
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 >^oj 
 
 eftahlKliment of the Emperor, his palaces, temples, gardens, 
 women, and princes of the blood. The confifcatioos, prefents, 
 tributes, and other articles, may be reckoned as his privy purfe. 
 The furplus revenue remitted to Pekin, in the year 1792, was 
 ftated to be about 36,000,000 ounces of filver, or 1 2,000,000 1. 
 fterling. It is a general opinion among the Chinefe part of his 
 fubjed:s, that vaft fums of the furplus revenue and fuch as 
 arife from confifcations are annually fent to Moukden, the 
 capital of Man-tchoo Tartary ; but this fhould appear to be an 
 erroneous opinion founded on prejudice. Notwithftanding the 
 enormous wealth of Ho-tchung-tang^ that filled the Imperial 
 coffers, the prefent Emperor found it neceflary the fanie year tp 
 accept an offering, as it was called, of 500,000 ounces of filver, 
 or 166,6661. fterling, from the fait merchants of Canton, and 
 fums of money and articles of merchandize from other quarters, 
 to enable him to quell a rebellion that was raging in one of the 
 weftern provinces. He even fent down to Canton a quantity 
 of pearls, agates, ferpentines, and other ftones of little value, ia 
 the hope of raifing a temporary fupply from the fale of thenji 
 to foreign merchants. The Emperor of China, therefore, has 
 not fo much wealth at his difpofal as has ufually been imagined. 
 He even accepts of patriotic gifts from individuals, cpnfifting 
 of pieces of porcelain, filks, fans, te^, and fuch-like triflii^g 
 articles, which afterwards ferye as prefents to foreign embaC- 
 fadors, and each gift is pompoufly proclaimed in the Pekia 
 gazette. 
 
 The chief officers in the civil departments of government, 
 independent of the minifters and the different boards in Pekin, 
 
 3 F 2 accordijng
 
 404 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 according to the ftatement of Tchou-ta-gin., with their falaries 
 and allowances reduced into filver, will be feen from the fol- 
 lowlnp- table, which, with that of the military eftablifliment, is 
 publifhed in the appendix to the authentic account of the em- 
 bafTy by Sir George Staunton ; and as they differ very little from 
 the court calendar publifhed in 1801, and as I have occafion 
 to make a few remarks on them, as well as on that of the popu- 
 lation, which will be given in a fubfequent chapter, 1 have not 
 hefitated to introduce them into the prefent work. 
 
 Qsality. 
 
 SaUries 
 Number, ir. ounces 
 lot filver. 
 
 To'al. 
 
 Viceroys over one ormore provinces 
 
 Governors of provinces - - - 
 
 CoUeflors of revenue - - - 
 
 Prefidents of criminal tribunals - - - 
 
 Governors of more than one city of the firft order 
 
 Governors of one city only of the firft order 
 
 Governors of a city of the fecond order 
 
 Governors of a city of the third order 
 
 Prefidents of literature and examinations 
 
 Infpeftors general - - - - 
 
 1 1 
 
 »5 
 
 '9 
 
 18 
 
 85 
 
 184 
 
 •49 
 
 '305, 
 
 '7| 
 'i7i 
 
 2C,000 
 
 16,000 
 9,000 
 6.0CO 
 3.0C0 
 
 2,C00 
 I,OCO 
 
 fcco 
 3,oco 
 
 220,000 
 240,0001 
 171,000! 
 10?, 000 
 258,000. 
 
 368,oco- 
 149,000! 
 
 1,044,000 
 
 402,000j 
 
 
 Tot-i! oz. 2,960,000} 
 
 The inferior officers ading immediately under the orders 
 of thefe, and amounting to many thoufands, together with 
 the falaries and expences of the different boards in the ca- 
 pital, all of which arc paid out of the public treafury, muft re- 
 quire a fum at leaft equal to the above ; fo that on a moderate 
 calculation, the ordinary expences of the civil eftablifhment 
 will amount to the fum of 5,920,000 ounces, or i»973>333l» 
 fterling. 
 
 Some
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 405 
 
 Some idea may be formed of the numerous appointments, 
 and the frequent changes in adminiftration, from the circum- 
 ftance of the Court Calendar, or red book, being publifhed 
 every three months making four tolerable large volumes, or 
 fixteen volumes every year. 
 
 The fatherly attention, the wife precautions, and the extreme 
 jealoufy of the government, have not been confidered as alone 
 fufficient for the internal and external prote£lion of the empire, 
 without the afliftance of an immenfe ftanding army. This 
 army, in the midft of a profound peace, was ftated by Van-ta- 
 gln to confift of eighteen hundred thoufand men, one million 
 of which were faid to be infantry, and eight hundred thou- 
 fand cavalry. As this government, however, is fuppofed to 
 be much given to exaggeration in all matters relating to the 
 aggrandifement of the country, and to deal liberally in hyper- 
 boles, wherever numbers are concerned, the authenticity of 
 the above ftatement of their military force may perhaps be 
 called in queftion. The fum of money, that would be required 
 to keep in pay and furnifh the extraordinaries of fo immenfe 
 an army, is fo immoderate that the revenues would appear to 
 be unable to bear it. If the pay and the appointments, of each 
 foldier, infantry and cavalry one with another, be fuppofed 
 to amount to a fhilUng a day, the fum required for the pay 
 alone would amount to 33,000,0001. fterling a year I 
 
 To come nearer the truth, let us take the calculation drawn 
 up by Lord Macartney from the information of Van-ta-gin, 
 
 3
 
 4o6 
 
 TRAVELS INCHINA. 
 
 Rank. 
 
 Tau-ton, 
 
 Tfung-ping 
 
 Foo-tlung 
 
 Tchoo-tfung 
 
 TchoO'tze 
 
 Too-tze 
 
 Sciou-foo 
 
 Tfien-tfung 
 
 Pa-tlung 
 
 ComniilTaries of provifions of firft rank 
 
 Conimiflarles of provifions of fecond rank 
 
 i»ooo,ooo infantry, at two ounces of filver each per month, 7 
 provifions included - - i 
 
 800,000 cavalry, at four ounces each, provifions and 
 
 forage included 
 800,000 horfes, coft at twenty ounces each, 16,000,000 oz 
 the annual wear and tear at 10 per cent, will be 
 Uniforms for 1,800,000 men once a year, at four ounces 
 Yearly wear and tear of arms, accoutrements, and contin- \ 
 
 Num- Salaries, 
 ber. 
 
 18 
 
 62 
 
 121 
 
 165 
 
 37,i 
 
 4-5 
 825 
 
 1680 
 362: 
 
 44 
 33 = 
 
 33 = 
 
 40C0 
 2400 
 
 I tJCO 
 
 800 
 600 
 400 
 ■^^o 
 160 
 I 30 
 
 165 ; 
 
 Total 
 
 24,000,000 
 > 35,400,000 
 
 } 
 
 gencies, at one ounce //r man 
 
 Total. 
 
 72,000 
 148,800 
 157,^00 
 132,000 
 
 223, Soo 
 170,000 
 264.000 
 26^,800 
 470,870 
 14,080 
 52,800 
 
 1,974,450 
 
 1,600,000 
 7,200,000 
 1,800,000 
 
 -73,ooo,coo 
 
 Total ounces 74,974,450 
 
 And as no allowance is made in the above eftimate for the ex- 
 pence of artillery, tents, war equipage, nor for veffels of force 
 on the different rivers and canals, the building and keeping in 
 repair the military ports, the flags, ceremonial dreflcs, boats, 
 waggons, mufical bands, all of which are included in the ex- 
 traordinaries of the army, thefc may probably be equal to the 
 ordinaries ; thus the whole military eftablifliment would require 
 the fum of 149,948,900 ounces, or 49,982,9331. fterling. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 407 
 
 The dirpofal of the revenues will then (land as follows : 
 
 Total amount of the revenue - £. 66,000,000 
 
 Civil eftablilhment - J^. 1,973,333 
 
 Military ditto - 49,982,933 
 
 51,956,266 
 
 Surplus, being for the Emperor's eftablifhment £. 14,043,734 
 ■which accords pretty nearly with the fum faid to be remitted 
 to Pekin in the year 1792. 
 
 It will appear then that if the revenues be admitted as accu- 
 rate, and I fee no juft reafon for fuppofing the contrary, they 
 are more than fufficient to meet the expences of fo apparently 
 an enormous eftabliihment. If, however, the King of Pmffia, 
 the Monarch of a fmall indiftinguifhable fpeck on the globe, 
 when put in comparifon with the empire of China, can keep 
 up an army of one hundred and eighty or two hundred'thou- 
 fand men, I can perceive nothing either extravagant or ex- 
 traordinary in fuppofing that a Sovereign whofe dominions are 
 eight times the extent of thofe of France, before her late 
 ufurpations, fhould have ten times as great a force as that of 
 the King of Pruffia. It may perhaps be afked in what manner 
 are they employed, feeing the nation is fo little engaged in 
 foreign war ? The employments for which the military are 
 ufed differ materially from thofe among European nations^ 
 Except a great part of the Tartar cavalry, who are ftationed on 
 the northern frontier and in the conquered provinces of Tar- 
 tary, and the Tartar infantry, who are diflributed as guards 
 for the different cities of the empire, the reft of the army is 
 
 parcelled.
 
 4o8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 parcelled out in the finaller towns, villages, and hamlets; where 
 they adl as jailors, confiables, thief-takers, ailiflants to magif- 
 trates, fubordinatc coUedors of the taxes, guards to tlie grana- 
 .rles; and are employed in a variety of different ways under 
 the civil magiftracy and police. Befides thefe, an immenfe 
 multitude are ftationed as guards at the military ports along 
 the public roads, canals, and rivers. Thefe ports are fmall 
 fquare buildings, like fo many little caftles, each having on its 
 lummit a watch-tower and a flag; and they are placed at the 
 diftance of three or four miles afunder. At one of thefe ports 
 there are never fewer than fix men. They not only prevent 
 robberies and difputes on the roads and canals, but convey the 
 public difpatches to and from the capital. An exprefs fent 
 from port to port travels between the capital and Canton in 
 twelve days, which is upwards of one hundred miles a day. 
 There is no other port nor mode of conveying letters for the 
 convenience of the public. 
 
 A great part then of the Chinefe army can only be confidered 
 as a kind of militia, which never has been, and in all human 
 probability never will be, embodied ; as a part of the commu- 
 nity not living entirely on the labour of the reft, but contri- 
 buting fomething to the common ftock. Every foldier ftationed 
 on the difierent guards has his portion of land aflTigned to him, 
 .which he cultivates for his family, and pays his quota of the 
 produce to the ftate. Such a provifion, encouraged by public 
 opinion, induces the foldier to marry, and the married men are 
 never removed from their ftations. 
 
 It
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 409 
 
 It will not be expeded that men thus circumftanced fhould 
 exhibit a very military appearance under arms. In fome places, 
 where they were drawn out in compliment to the Embaflador, 
 when the weather happened to be a little warm, they were 
 employed in the exercife of their fans, inftead of their match- 
 locks ; others we found drawn up in a fingle line, and refting 
 very compofedly on their knees to receive the Embaflador, in 
 which pofture they remained till their commanding oflicer 
 pafl!ed the word to rife. Whenever we happened to take them 
 by furprize, there was the greateft fcramble to get their holyday 
 drefles out of the guard-houfe, which, when put on, had more 
 the appearance of being intended for the ftage than the field 
 of battle. Their quilted petticoats, fattin boots, and their fans, 
 had a mixture of clumfinefs and effeminacy that ill accorded 
 with the military charader. 
 
 The different kinds of troops that compofe the Chinefe army 
 confift of 
 
 Tartar cavalry, whofe only w^eapon is the fabre ; and a few 
 who carry bows, 
 
 Tartar infantry, bowmen ; having alfo large fab res. 
 
 Chinefe infantry, carrying the fame weapons. 
 
 Chinefe matchlocks. 
 
 Chinefe Tygers of war, bearing large round fliields of bafket- 
 work, and long ill-made fwords. On the fliields of the laft are 
 painted monftrous faces of fome imaginary animal, intended to 
 frighten the enemy, or, like another gorgon, to petrify their 
 beholders. 
 
 3 G The
 
 4io TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The military drefs varies in almofl: every province. Some- 
 times they wore blue jackets edged with red, or brown with 
 yellow ; feme had long pantaloons ; fome breeches, with 
 ftockings of cotton cloth ; others petticoats and boots. The 
 bowmen had long loofe gowns of blue cotton, ftufFed with a 
 kind of felt or wadding, ftudded all over with brafs knobs, 
 and bound round the middle with a girdle, from which the 
 fabre was appended behind, hanging with the point forwards, 
 and on the right, not the left, fide as in Europe. On the head 
 they wore a helmet of leather, or gilt pafteboard, with flaps on 
 each fide that covered the cheeks and fell upon the fhoulder. 
 The upper part was exactly like an inverted funnel, with a long 
 pipe terminating in a kind of fpear, on- which was bound a 
 tuft of long hair dyed of a fcarlet colour. 
 
 The greatefl: number we faw at any one place might be from 
 two to three thoufand, which were drawn up in a fingle line 
 along the bank of a river ; and as they flood with an interval 
 between each equal to the width of a man, they formed a very 
 confiderable line in length. Every fifth man had a fmall trian- 
 gular flag, and every tenth a large one ; the ftafl^s that fupported 
 them were fixed to the jacket behind the fhoulders. Some of 
 the flags were green,, edged with red ; others blue, edged with 
 yellow. I never faw the Chinefe troops drawn out in any 
 other way than a fingle line in front ; not even two deep. 
 
 The Tartar cavalry appear to be remarkably fwift, and to 
 
 charge with great impetuofity ; but the horfes are fo fmall and 
 
 are broken into fo quick and fhort a ftroke that the eye is 
 
 deceived. Their real fpeed, in fad, is very moderate. Their 
 
 1 faddles
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 411 
 
 laddies are remarkably foft, and ralfed fo high both before and 
 behind, that the rider cannot eafily be thrown out of his feat. 
 The ftirrups are fo (hort that the knee is almoft as high as the 
 chin. They have very little artillery, and that little is as 
 wretched as it well can be. I fufpeft it is borrowed from 
 the Portugueze, as the matchlock moft unqueflionably has 
 been. 
 
 When our fellow-traveller Van-ta-gtn was afked the reafon of 
 their pretending to give a preference to the clumfy matchlocks 
 over the firelocks now in ufe among European troops, he 
 replied, it had been found, after a fevere engagement in Thi- 
 bet, that the matchlocks had done much more execution 
 than the firelocks. It is difficult to combat prejudices ; but it 
 was not very difficult to convince Va7i that the men might pro- 
 bably have been quite as much in fault as the inufqucts; and 
 that the fuperior fteadlnefs of the fire from the matchlocks 
 might poffibly be owing to their being fixed, by an iron fork, 
 into the ground. The miffionaries have affigned a very abfurd 
 reafon for firelocks not being ufed in China ; they fay the damp- 
 nefs of the air is apt to make the flint mifs fire. With equal 
 propriety might thefe gentlemen have afl'erted that flints would 
 not emit fire in Italy. Their want of good iron and fleel to 
 manufafture locks, or the bad quality of their gunpowder, might 
 perhaps be offered as better reafons ; and as the befl of all their 
 want of courage and coolnefs to make ufe of them with that 
 fteadinefs which is required to produce the effedls of which 
 they are capable. Their favourite inflrument is the bow, 
 which, like all other miffile weapons, requires lefs courage to 
 
 3 G 2 manage,
 
 4J2 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 manage, than thofe which bring man to oppofe himfelf in 
 clofe conteft with man. 
 
 Although the Tartars have found it expedient to continue 
 the Chinefe army on the old footing, It may naturally be fup- 
 pofed they would endeavour to fecure themfelves by all poffible 
 means in the pofTeflion of this vaft empire, and that they would 
 ufe every exertion to recruit the army with their own coun- 
 trymen, in preference to the Chinefe. Every Tartar male 
 child is accordingly enrolled. This precaution was neceflary, 
 as their whole army, at the time of the conqueft, is faid not to 
 have exceeded eighty thoufand men. At this time, in fad, a 
 weak adminiftration had fufFered the empire to be torn afunder 
 by convulfions. Every department, both civil and military, 
 was under the control of eunuchs. Six thoufand of thefe crea- 
 tures are faid to have been turned adrift by the Tartars on 
 taking pofTeflion of the palace in Pekin» 
 
 The conduct of the Mantchoo Tartars, whofe race is now 
 on the throne, was a mafter-piece of policy little to be ex- 
 peded in a tribe of people that had been confidered but as half 
 civilized. They entered the Chinefe dominions as auxiliaries 
 againft two rebel chiefs, but foon perceived they might become 
 the principals. Having placed their leader on the vacant 
 throne, inftead of fetting up for conquerors, they melted at 
 once into the mafs of the conquered. They adopted the drefs, 
 the manners, and the opinions of the people. In all the civil 
 departments of the ftate they appointed the ableft Chinefe, 
 and all vacancies were filled with Chinefe in preference to 
 
 Tartars.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 41.3 
 
 Tartars. They learned the Chinefe language ; married into 
 Chinefe faipilies ; encouraged Chinefe fuperftitions ; and, in 
 (hort, omitted no ftep that could tend to incorporate them 
 as one nation. Their great objeft was to ftrengthen the army 
 with their own countrymen, whilft the Chinefe were fo fatis.- 
 fied with the change, that they almoft doubted whether a change 
 had really taken place. 
 
 The uninterrupted fucceffion of four Emperors, all of whom 
 were endowed with excellent underftandings, uncommon vigour 
 of mind, and decifion of character, has hitherto obviated the 
 danger of fuch an enormous difproportion between the gover- 
 nors and the governed^ The wifdom, prudence, and energy 
 of thefe Emperors have not only maintained the family on 
 the throne, the fifth of which now fills it, but have enlarged 
 the dominions to an extent of which hiftory furnifhes no pa- 
 ralleL The prefent Emperor, Kia-kingy is faid to poflefs the 
 learning ai>d prudence of his father, and the firmnefs of Kaipig- 
 Shee ; but it is probable he will have a more difficult taflc in 
 governing the empire than cither of his predeceflbrs. In pro- 
 portion as the Tartar power has increafed, they have become 
 lefs felicitous to conciliate the Chinefe. All the heads of depart- 
 ments are now Tartars. The minifters are all Tartars ; and 
 moft of the offices of high truft and power are filled by Tartars. 
 And although the ancient larLguage of the country is ftill pre- 
 ferved as the court language, yet it is more than probable that 
 Tartar pride, encreafing with its growing power, will ere long 
 be induced to adopt its own. 
 
 The
 
 414 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The Emperor Kaung-Shee indeed took uncommon pains to 
 improve the Mantchoo language, and to form it into a fyftema- 
 tic Thefatiriis or didionary ; and Tchicti-Lung direded that the 
 children of all fuch parents as were one a Tartar, the other a 
 Chinefe, fhould be taught the Mantchoo language ; and that 
 they might pafs their examinations for office in that language. 
 I could obferve, that the young men of the royal family at 
 Ttien-m'in-yuen fpoke with great contempt of the Chinefe. One 
 of them, perceiving that I was defirous of acquiring fome 
 knowledge of the Chinefe written charader, took great pains 
 to convince me that the Tartar language was much fuperior to 
 it ; and he not only offered to furnilTi me with the alphabet 
 and fome books, but with his inftrudions alfo, if I would give 
 up the Chinefe, which, he obferved, was not to be acquired in 
 the courfe of a man's whole life. I could not forbear remark- 
 ing, how very much thefe young princes enjoyed a jeft levelled 
 againft the Chinefe. An ill-natured remark, for inftance, on 
 the cramped feet and the hobbling gait of a Chinefe woman 
 met with their hearty approbation; but they were equally dif- 
 pleafed on hearing the clumfy fhoes worn by the Tartar 
 ladies compared to the broad flat-bottomed junks of the 
 Chinefe. 
 
 Although the ancient inftltutes and laws, the eftabllflied forms 
 of office, the pageantry of adminlflratlon, were all retained, 
 and the drefs, the manners, and external deportment of the 
 vanqulfhed were affiimed by the vidors, yet the native charac- 
 ter remained diftind ; and now, in the higher departments of 
 office efpecially, it burfts through all difguife. The confcious 
 
 fuperio-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 415 
 
 fupenonty of the one checks and overawes the other. " Moft 
 " of our books," obferves Lord Macartney, " confound the. 
 *' two people together, and talk of them as if they made only 
 " one nation under the general name of China ; but whatever 
 " might be concluded from any outward appearances, the real 
 *' diftin£lion is never forgotten by the fovereign who, though 
 " he pretends to be perfedlly impartial, conduds himfelf at 
 *' bottom by a fyftematic nationality, and never for a moment 
 " lofas fight of the cradle of his power. The fcience of go- 
 " vernment in the Eajlern world, is underftood by thofe who 
 " govern very differently from what it is in the Wejieni. 
 " When the fucceffion of a contefted kingdom in Europe is 
 " once afcertained, whether by violence or compromife, the 
 **^ nation returns to its prifline regularity and compofure : it 
 " matters little whether a Bourbon or an Auftrian fills 
 ** the throne of Naples or of Spain, becaufe the fovereign, 
 " whoever he be, then becomes to all intents and purpofes, a 
 " Spaniard or Neapolitan, and his defcendants continue fo 
 ** with accelerated velocity. George the Firfl and George the 
 ** Second ceafed to be foreigners from the moment our fceptre 
 " was fixed in their hands ; and His prefent Majefty is as 
 " much an Englifhman as King Alfred or King Edgar, and go- 
 "' verns his people not by Teutonic, but by Englifh laws. 
 
 " The policy of Afia is totally oppofite. There the prince 
 " regards the place of his nativity as an accident of mere indif- 
 " ference. If the parent root be good, he thinks it will flourifh 
 " in every foil, and perhaps acquire frefli vigour from tranf- 
 *' plantation. It is not locality, but his own caft and family; 
 
 « it
 
 4i6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ** it is not the country where he drew his breath, but the block 
 " from which he fprung ; it is not the fcenery of the theatre, 
 " but the fpirit of the drama, that engages his attention and 
 " occupies his thoughts. A feries of two hundred years, in the 
 " fucceflion of eight or ten monarchs, did not change the Mo- 
 " gul into a Hindoo, nor has a century and a half made 7'chien- 
 " Lung a Chinefe. He remains, at this hour, in all his 
 " maxims of policy, as true a Tartar as any of Lis an- 
 " xeftors." 
 
 Whether this moft ancient empire among men will long 
 continue in its ftability and integrity, can only be matter of con- 
 jedure, but certain it is, the Chinefe are greatly diflatisfied, and 
 not without reafon, at the imperious tone now openly affumed 
 by the Tartars ; and though they arc obliged to cringe and fub- 
 mit, in order to rife to any diftin(3:ion In the ftate, yet they un- 
 animoufly load them with 
 
 " Curfes, not loud, but deep, niouth-honour, breath *." 
 
 • The laft accounts, indeed, that have been received from China, are rather of 
 an alarming nature. A very ferious rebellion had broken out in the weftem pro- 
 vinces, which had extended to that of Canton, the ohjeifl of which was the overthrow 
 of the Tartar government. It was known for fome years paft, as I before obferved, 
 that certain fecret focicties were forming in the different provinces, who correfponded 
 together by unknown figns, agreed upon by convention, but they were not confidered 
 to be of that extent as to caufe any uneafinefs to the government. It .ippears, how- 
 ever, that not fewer than forty thoufand men had aflenibled in arms in the province 
 of Canton, at the head of whom was a man of the family of the 1aft Chinefe Em- 
 peror, who had affumed the Imperial Yellow. Thefe rebels, it feems, are coafider- 
 ably encouraged in their caufe by a prophecy, which is current among the people, 
 that the prefent Tartar dynafty ftiall be overturned in the year 1804. The exiftence 
 of fuch a prophecy may be more dangerous to the Tartar government than the arms 
 of the rebels^ by afllfUng to bring about its own accom^ lifhiQcnt. 
 
 Whenever 
 
 I
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 417 
 
 Whenever the dlfmembennent or diflocatiou of this great ma- 
 chine {hall take place, either by a rebellion or revolution, it 
 muft be at the expence of many millions of lives. For, as is 
 well obferved by Lord Macartney, " A fudden tranfition frona 
 flavery to freedom, from dependence to authority, can fel- 
 ' dom be borne with moderation or difcretion. Every change 
 ' in the ftate of man ought to be gentle and gradual, other- 
 ' wife it is commonly dangerous to himfelf, and intolerable to 
 ' others. A due preparation may be as neceflary for liberty, 
 ' as for inoculation of the fmall-pox, which, like liberty, is 
 ' future health but, without due preparation, is almoft certain^ 
 ' deftrudion. Thus then the Chinefe, if not led to emanci- 
 ' pation by degrees, but let loofe on a burft of enthufiitfra, 
 ' would probably fall into all the exceQes of folly, fuffer all 
 ' the paroxyfms of madnefs, and be found as unfit for 
 ' the enjoyment of rational freedom, as the French and the 
 ' negroes," 
 
 3M
 
 4i8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 CHAP. vm. 
 
 Conie£lures on the Origin of the Chinefe. — Their Religious 
 Sedts, — Tenets, — and Ceremonie:s. 
 
 Embajfy departs from Peking and is lodged in a Temple. — Colony from Egypt not ne- 
 ceffary to hefuppofed^ in order to account for Egyptian Mythology in China. — Opi- 
 nions concerning Chinefe Origin. — Obfervations on the Heights ofTartary — Proba- 
 bly the Refling-place of the Arl of Noah. — Ancients ignorant of the Chinefe. — Zeres.. 
 —Firjl known Intercourfe of Foreigners luith China. — Jews. — Budh'flu—'Neflo- 
 fians. — Mahomedans. — Roman Catholics. — ^tarrels of the Jefuits and Domini- 
 fgfis. Religion of Confucius. — Attached to the Prediclion of future Events.— No- 
 tions entertained by him of a future State. — Of the Deity. — DoHrine not unlike that 
 of the Stoics. — Ceremonies in Honour of his AIem:ry led to Idolatry. — Mifrcprefen- 
 tations of the Miffionaries with regard to the Religicm of the Chinif.—The Tao-tze 
 «rSons of Immortals. — Their Beverage of Life. — The DifiplesofYa or Budki/ls. 
 —Comparifon offome of the Hindu, Greek, Egyptian, and Chinefe Deities.— The 
 Lotos or Nelumbium. — Story of Ofiris and Ifis, and the Ifia compared with the 
 Imperial Ceremony of Ploughing.— Women vifit the Temples.— PraHical Part cf 
 Chinefe Religion. — Funeral Obfequies. — FeaJ? cf Lanterns.'- Obeifance ta the 
 Emperor performed in Temples leads to Idolatry. — Primitive Religion lojl or corrupted. 
 — Summary of Chinefe Religion. 
 
 A HE fufpicious and watchful condud of the Chinefe go- 
 vernment towards ftrangers was ill fuited to the free and inde- 
 pendent fpirlt of Britons. Confined within the limits of their 
 hotel, the populous capital of China was to them little better 
 
 than
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 419 
 
 than a defcrt. It was, therefore, lefs painful to be obliged to 
 quit a place which they could conlider in no other light than as 
 an honourable prifon, and to take leave of a people, whole ge- 
 neral charadier feemed to be ftrongly marked with pride, mean- 
 Tiefs, and ignorance. After having pafled fome time in a na- 
 tion, where every petty officer is a tyrant, and every man a flave, 
 how doubly precious do the bleffingsof that true liberty appear, 
 which our happy conftitution affords to every one the means 
 of enjoying at home ; where property is fecured from violence, 
 and where the life of the meaneft fubjedl is equally prote<Sed 
 -with that of the prince. Let thofe vifionary men, who amufe 
 themfelves in building Utopian governments, and thofe who, 
 from real or fancied injury or negled, feel the chagrin of dif- 
 appointment, vlfit other countries, and experience how juftice 
 is adminiftered in other nations ; they will then be taught to 
 confefs that real liberty exifts only in Great Britain — in that 
 happy ifland where, to ufe the expreffion of an eminent wri- 
 ter on the laws of nations *, " an enlightened piety in the 
 " people is the firmefl fupport of lawful authority ; and in the 
 " fovereign's breaft, it is the pledge of the people's fafety, and 
 *' excites their confidence," 
 
 Imprefled with fuch fentiments, on the evening of the 7th 
 of Odober I rode through the ftreets of Pekin, for the laft time, 
 in company with Mr. Maxwell. We were quite alone, not a 
 Tingle Chinefe fervant, nor foldier, nor officer to condud us; 
 yet we had no difficulty in finding our way. We pafled 
 
 • Vattel. 
 
 3 " 2 through
 
 420 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 through the broad ftreets of this capital from one extremity to 
 the other without the leaft moleftation, or, indeed, the leaft no- 
 tice. We could not forbear remarking the extraordinary coii- 
 traft, that the two greateft cities in the world exhibited at liiis 
 hour of the day. In the public ftreets of Pekin, after five or 
 fix o'clock in the evening, fcarcely a human creature is feen to 
 move, but they abound with dogs and fwine. All its inhabitants, 
 having finifhed the bufmefs of the day, are now retired to their 
 refpedive homes to eat their rice and, agreeably with the ciif- 
 tom of their great Emperor, which to them is a law, to lie 
 down with the fetting fun ; at which time in London, the crowd 
 is fo great, from Hyde Park corner to Mile End, as to inter- 
 rupt each other. In Pekin, from the moment the day begins 
 to dawn, the buzz and the buftle of the populace is like that 
 of a fwarm of bees ; v^chilft, on the contrary, the flreets of Lon- 
 don at an early hour in the morning are nearly deferted. At 
 eight in the evening, even in fummer, the gates of Pekin are 
 fliut, and the keys fent to the governor, after which they can- 
 not be opened on any confideration. 
 
 The Embaflador and the reft of the fuite, with the foldiera, 
 fervants and muficians had, feveral hours before us, fet out in a 
 fort of proceffion, in which an officer of government on horfe- 
 back took the lead, with the letter of the Emperor of China to 
 the King of England flung acrofs his fhoulders, in a wooden 
 cafe covered with yellow filk. At a late hour in the night, we 
 joined the reft of the party in the fuburbs of Tong-tcljoo-foo, where 
 we were once more lodged among the gods of the nation, in a 
 temple that was confecratcd to the patronizing deity of the city. 
 
 There
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 421 
 
 There are no inns in any part of this vafl: empire ; or, to fpeak 
 more corredtly (for there are refting-places), no inhabited and 
 furnifhed houfes where, in confideration of paying a certain 
 fum of money, a traveller may purchafe the refrelliments of 
 comfortable reft, and of allaying the calls of hunger. The 
 ftate of fociety admits of no fuch accommodation, and much 
 lefs fuch as, in many countries, proceeds from a fpirit of difm- 
 terefted hofpitality ; on the contrary, in this country, they in- 
 variably fhut their doors againft a ftranger. What they call 
 inns are mean hovels, confifting of bare walls where, perhaps, 
 a traveller may procure his cup of tea for a piece of copper 
 money, and permifTion to pafs the night ; but this is the extent 
 of the comforts which fuch places hold out. The practice in- 
 deed of travelling by land is fo rare, except occafionally in thofe 
 parts of the country which admit not the convenience of inland 
 navigations, or at fuch times when thefe are frozen up, that the 
 profits which might arife from the entertainment of pafTengers 
 could not fupport a houfe of decent accommodation. The of- 
 ficers of ftate invariably make ufe of the conveniencies which 
 the temples offer, as being fuperior to any other which the 
 country affords ; and the priefts, well knowing how vain it 
 would be to refift, or remonftrate, patiently fubmit, and rcfign 
 the temporary ufe of their apartments without a murmur. 
 
 . In moft countries of the civilized v/orld, the buildings appro- 
 priated for religious worfhip and the repofitories of their gods, 
 are generally held facred. In the monafteries of thofe parts of 
 Europe, where inns are not to be found, the apartments of the 
 monks are fometimes reforted to by travellers, but in China the 
 
 3 very
 
 422 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 •vt'cy fanBum fiViBorum is invaded. Every corner Is Indifcrimi- 
 nately occupied by men in power, if they fhould require it. 
 Sometimes, alfo, the whole building is made a common place of 
 refort for vagrants and idlers, where gamblers mix with gods, 
 and prices with pick-pockets. In juftice, however, it muft be 
 obferved, that the priefts of the two popular religions which 
 predominate in the country flievv no inclination to encourage, 
 by joining in, the vicious practices of the rabble ; but having 
 no pay nor emolument from government, and being rather 
 tolerated than fupported, they are obliged to fubmit to and 
 to overlook abufes of this nature, and even to allow the profluie 
 pradlices of the rabble in the very hours of their devotion. Yet 
 there is a decency of behaviour, a fort of pride and dignity i^ 
 the deportment of a Chinefe prieft, that readily diftinguKh 
 him from the vulgar. The calumnies, which fome of the 
 Roman catholic miffionaries have fo induftrioufly circulated 
 againft them, feem to have no foundation in truth. The near 
 refemblance of their drefs and holy rites to thofe of their own 
 faith was fo mortifying a circumftance, that none of the mif- 
 fionaries I converfed with could fpeak with temper of the priefts 
 of China. I could not even prevail on our interpreter of the 
 propaganda Ji(Ie, who ftill manifefted a prediledion for the cuftoms 
 of his country in every other refpeft, to ftep into the temple 
 where the altar was placed ; nor could he be induced, by any 
 perfuafion, to give or to afk an explanation of their myfterious 
 dodtrines. 
 
 There is no fubjedt, perhaps, on which a traveller ought to 
 fpeak with lefs confidence, than on the religious opinions of 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 423 
 
 the people he may chance to vKit, in countries out of Eu- 
 rope, efpecially when thofe opinions are grounded on a very 
 remote antiquity. The allegorical allufions in which they 
 might originally have been involved, the various changes they 
 may fmce have undergone, the ceremonies and types under 
 which they are ftill exhibited, in their modern dreis, render 
 them fo wholly unintelligible that, although they may have 
 been founded in truth and reafon, they now appear abfurd and 
 ridiculous ; equally inexplicable by the people themfelves who 
 profefs them, as by thofe who are utter ftrangers. The various 
 modes, indeed, under which the Creator and Ruler of the Uni- 
 verfe is recognifed by various nations, all tending to one point, 
 but fetting out in very different diredions, can only be under- 
 ftood and reconciled by a thorough knowledge of the language, 
 the hiftory, and the habits of the people j of their origin and 
 connedions with other nations; and, even after fuch know- 
 ledge has been obtained, it is no eafy tafk to feparate fable from 
 metaphor, and truth from fi£tion. For thefe reafons, the reli- 
 gion of China appears to be fully as obfcure and inexplicable 
 as that of almoft any other of the oriental nations. The lan- 
 guage of the country, added to thejealoufy of the government 
 fn admitting foreigners, have thrown almoft iniuperable ob- 
 ftacles in the way of clearing up this intricate fubjedl ; and thofe 
 few, who only have had opportunities of overcoming thefe diffi- 
 culties, were unfortunately men of that clafs, whofe opinions 
 were fo warped by the prejudices iaibibed with the tenets of 
 their own religion, that the accounts given by them are not al- 
 ways to be depended upon. As I have already obferved, they 
 
 cannot
 
 424 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 cannot bring themfelves to fpeak or to write of the priefts of 
 China with any degree of temper or moderation. 
 
 It would be prefumptuous in me to fuppofe, for a moment, 
 that I am qualified to remove the veil of darknefs that covers 
 the popular religion of China. But as, in the practice of this 
 religion, it is impoffible not to difcover a common origin with 
 the fyftems of other nations in ancient times, it may not be 
 Improper to introduce a few remarks on the fiabjed:, and to 
 enquire if hiftory will enable us to point out, in what manner 
 they might have received or communicated the fuperftitions 
 and metaphyfical ideas that feem to prevail among them. The 
 obvious coincidence between fome parts of the mythological 
 do£trines of the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, with thofe of 
 China, induced the learned Monfieur de Guignes and many 
 of the Jefuits to infer, that a colony from Egypt, at fome re- 
 mote period, had pafled into China. This however does not 
 appear probable. The Chinefe are not a mixed but a dillindl 
 race of men ; and their countenance has nothing of the ancient 
 Egyptian in it. Nor indeed is it neceflary to fuppofe any fuch 
 connection, in order to explain the veftiges of Egyptian my- 
 thology that may appear in their temples. We are informed 
 by hiftory that when Alexander marched into India, about three 
 centuries before the birth of Chrift, many learned Greeks ac- 
 companied him on this memorable expedition ; and we are 
 further informed that, two centuries after this period when 
 the perfecutions and cruelties of Ptolemy Phyfcon expelled 
 great numbers of learned and pious Greeks and Egyptians 
 from the city of Alexandria, they travelled eaftward in fearch 
 
 of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 425 
 
 of an afylum among the Perfians ant! the Indians ; fo thit there 
 is nothing extraordinary in meeting with Greek and Egyptian 
 fuperftitions among nations of the Eaft ; even where no veftigc 
 of their hinguage remains. For it may he obferved that, 
 whenever colonies emigrate from their own coun'ry and 
 fettle among ftrangers, they are much more apt to lofe their 
 native language, than their religious dogmas and fuperftitions 
 notions. NeceiTity indeed may compel them to adopt the lan- 
 guage of the new country into which they have emigrated, but 
 any compulfive meafures to draw them to another religion ferve 
 only to ftrengthen them in their own. The French refugees 
 at the Cape of Good Hope totally loft their language in lefs 
 than feventy years ; and, fingular as it may appear, I met with a 
 defcrter fio;n one of the Scotch regiments, on the borders of the 
 Kaft'er country, who had fo far forgot his languiage, in the 
 courfe of about three years, that he was not able to make him- 
 felf intelligible by it. Many languages, we know, have totally 
 been loft, and others fo changed as fcarcely to preferve any 
 traces of their original form *. 
 
 Mr. 
 
 * This confideration on the tranfient nature of languages, and efpeclally of thofe 
 whofe fleeting founds have never been fixed by any graphic invention, makes it the 
 more furpriying how Lord Karnes, in his fketch on the origin and progrefs of Ame- 
 rican nations, after obferving that no paffage by laud had been difcovered between 
 America and the oid world, fhould have given it as his opinion, that an enquiry, 
 much more decifive as to the former being peopled by the latter, might be purfued, 
 by afcertaining whether the fame language be fpoken by the inhabitants on the two 
 fides of the flrait that divides the northern regions of America from Kamfkatka. 
 And that, after finding this not to be the cafe, he fliould conclude that the former 
 could not have been peopled by the latter. Had not Lord Kames written upon a. 
 fyftem of a feparate and local creation, pre-eftabli{hed in his own mind, he would 
 unqueflionably have laid more ftrefs upon a relemblance in their phyfical charadters, 
 
 3 ' in
 
 426 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Mr. Eallly, with fome other learned and ingenious men, 
 was of opinion, that many fragments of the old and abfurd 
 fables of China are difcoverable in the ancient hiftory of the 
 Hindus, from the birth of Fo-Jhee, the founder of the empire 
 {Fo-hij as the French write the word,) until the introdudion 
 of Budha, or fo. Like the Hinduis, it is true, they have 
 always fhewn a remarkable prediledion for the number mm. 
 Confucius calls it the moft perfedl of numbers. But the Scy- 
 thians, or Tartars, have alfo confidered this as a facred num- 
 ber. It is true, likewife, they refemble fome of the Indian 
 nations, in the obfervance of folflitial and equinoxial facrinces ; 
 in making offerings to the manes of their anceftors ; in the 
 dread of leaving no offspring behind them, to pay the cuf- 
 tomary obfequies to their memory ; in obferving eight cardinal 
 or principal points of the world ; in the divifion of the Zodiac, 
 and in a variety of other coincidences, which the learned Mr, 
 Bryant accounts for by fuppofing the Egyptians, Greeks, Ro- 
 mans, and Indians, to be derived from one common flock, and 
 that fome of thefe people carried their religion and their learn- 
 ing into China. No proof however is adduced, either by him 
 or others, of fuch a communication ; and an atTertion diredlly 
 the contrary might have been made with equal plaufibility. 
 
 In their fuperftitions and religious notions, than on fimilarity of language ; whici), 
 among the many acquirements of the human fpccies, or of human inilitution, is not 
 the leaft liable to change by a change of fituation, efpecially where no written cha- 
 railer has been employed to fix it. His Lordlhip's conclufion is the more extraor- 
 dinary, as he had already obferveJ that the refemblance between them was perfeft 
 in every other refpeft. 
 
 That
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 427 
 
 That the Chinefe do not owe their origin to the fame (lock, 
 their phyfical charader is of itfelf a lufficient proof. The fmall 
 eye, rounded at the extremity next the nofe, inftead of being 
 angular, as is the cafe in that of Europeans, its oblique inftead 
 of horizontal pofition, and the flat and broad root of the nofe, 
 are features or charaders entirely diftind from the Hindu, the 
 Greek, or the Roman ; and belong more properly to the natives 
 of that vaft extent of country, which was known to the ancients 
 by the name of Scythia, and, in modern times, by that of 
 Tartary. There is fcarcely in nature two of the human fpecies 
 that differ more widely than a Chinefe and a Hindu, fetting 
 afide the diflerence of colour, which however modern enquiries 
 have determined to have little or no relation to climate, but 
 rather to fome original formation of the different fpecies. The 
 Mantchoo, and indeed all the other Tartar tribes bordering 
 upon China, are fcarcely diflinguifliable from the Chinefe. 
 The fame colour, except in a few inftances as I have elfewhere 
 obferved, the fame eyes, and general turn of the countenance 
 prevail, on the continent of Afia, from the tropic of Cancer to 
 the Frozen Ocean *". The peninfula of Malacca, and the vaft 
 multitude of iflands fpread over the eaftern feas, and inhabited 
 by the Malays, as well as thofe of Japan and Lieou-kieou, 
 have clearly been peopled from the fame common ftock. The 
 firft race of people to the northward of Hindoflan, that pofTefs 
 
 * It is fufficiently remarkible, that the Emperor Kamg-Shee, in giving, br public 
 edifl, fome account to his fubjefls of the different nations of Afia and Europe, fhouIJ 
 make the following obfervation. " To the foutluvard of the Cojfach country a horde 
 " oi Hoo-tfe (Turks) is eftablifhed, who are defccnded from the fame ftock with Turn- 
 " tay-tfcy formerly Empeiors of China." 
 
 3 I 2 the
 
 428 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the Tartar countenance, fo different from that of the Hindus, 
 are the inhabitants of Bootan. " The Booteeas^'' fays Captain 
 Turner, " have invariably black hair, which it is their fafhion 
 " to cut Ihort to the head. The eye is a very remarkable 
 " feature of the face; fmall, black, with long pointed cor- 
 " ners *, as though ftretched and extended by artificial means. 
 " Their eye-la(hes are fo thin as to be fcarcely perceptible, and 
 " the eye-brow is but fllghtly ihaded. Below the eyes is the 
 " broad eft part of the face, which is rather flat, and narrows 
 " from the cheek-bones to the chin ; a charader of countenance 
 " appearing firft to take its rife among the Tartar tribes, but 
 " is by far more ftrongly marked in the Chinefe."^ 
 
 The heights of Tartary, bulging out beyond the general fur- 
 face of the globe, have been confidered, indeed, by many as 
 the cradle of the human fpecies, or ftill more emphatically, and 
 perhaps more properly, as the fouridery of the huma}i race. This 
 opinion did not arife folely from the vaft multitudes of people 
 correfponding with the Tartar character, that are fpread over 
 every part of the eaft:ern world, and who in countlefs fwarms 
 once overran all Europe, but was grounded on a fuppofition, 
 that the whole furface of the globe, or the greater part of it, 
 has at one time been fubmerfed in water, and that Tartary was 
 the laft to be covered, and the firft that was uncovered ; and the 
 place from whence, of courfe, a new fet of creatures were forged 
 as in a workftiop, from fome remnant of the old ftock, to be the 
 germs of future nations. 
 
 • The exterior angles are here meant which, in th« Chinefe alfo, are extended in 
 the fsttue or a greater proportion than the interior ones are rounded off. 
 
 Alraoft
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 435 
 
 Almofl every part of the eartli, indeed, affords the moft un- 
 equivocal indications that fuch has adually been the cafe, not 
 only in the feveral marine produftions that have been difco- 
 vered in high mountains, at a diftance from any fea, and 
 equally deep under the furface of the earth ; but more efpecially 
 in the formation of the mountains themfelves, the very higheft 
 of which, except thofe of granite, confifting frequently of ta- 
 bular mafles piled on each other in fuch regular and horizon- 
 tal ftrata, that their fhape and appearance cannot be otherwife 
 accounted for, or explained by any known principle in nature, 
 except by fuppofmg them at one time to have exifted in a ftate 
 of fluidity, by the agency of fire or of water, a point which feems 
 to be not quite decided between the Volcanifts and the Nep- 
 tunifts. The heights of Tartary are unqueftionably the higheft 
 land in the old world. In America they may, perhaps, be ex- 
 ceeded. Gerbillon, who was a tolerable good mathematician 
 and furnifhed with inftruments, afflires us, that the mountain 
 Pe tcha, very inferior to many in Tartary, is nine Chinefe lees, 
 or about fifteen thoufand feet, above the level of the plains of 
 China. This mountain, as well as all the others in the fame 
 country, is compofed of fand ftone, and refts upon plains of 
 fand, mixed with rock fait and faltpetre. The Sha-moo, or im- 
 menfe defert of fand, which ftretches along the north-weft fron- 
 tier of China and divides it from weftern Tartary, is not lefs 
 elevated than K}(\t Pe-tcba, and is faid to referable the bed of the 
 ocean. Some of the mountains ftarting out of this fca of/and^ 
 which its name implies, cannot be lefs than twenty thoufand 
 feet above the level of the eaftern ocean. 
 
 The
 
 430 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The formation of the earth affords a wide field for fpecula- 
 tion ; and, accordingly, many ingenious theories have been con- 
 ceived to explain the various appearances v>'hich its furface ex- 
 hibits. The befl: modern naturalifts feem, however, to agree, 
 that water has been one of the principal agents to produce thefe 
 effedls. The great Linnseus, whofe penetrating mind pervaded 
 the whole empire of nature, after many and laborious enquiries, 
 acquiefced in the truth of the facred writings, that the whole 
 globe of the earth was, at fome period of time, fubmerfed in wa- 
 ter, and covered with the vaft ocean, until in the lapfe 
 of time one little ifland appeared in this immenfe fea, 
 which ifland muft have been of courfe the higheft moun- 
 tain upon the furface of the earth. In fupport of his hypo- 
 thefis, he adduces a number of fadls, many of which have fallen 
 within his own obfervation, of the progreffive retreat of the 
 fea, the diminution of fprings and rivers, and the neceflary in- 
 crement of land. Among the mod remarkable of thefe are 
 the obfervations made by the inhabitants of Northern Bothnia 
 upon the rocks on the fea coaft, from whence it appeared that, 
 in the courfe of a century, the fea had fubfided more than four 
 feet ; fo that fix thoufand years ago, fuppofing the rate of retir- 
 ing to have been the fame, the fea was higher than at prefent 
 by two hundred and forty feet. Such great and fenfible depref- 
 fion of the water of the fea muft, however, have been only local, 
 otherwife, as I have elfewhere obferved, the Red Sea and the 
 Mediterranean would have joined within the period of hiftory. 
 The fea, it is true, in fome parts of the world, gains upon the 
 land, and in others the land upon the fea, but thefe effedls arife 
 from a different caufe to that which is fuppofed to produce a ge- 
 neral 
 
 V 
 
 I
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 431 
 
 neral retreat. It is true, alfo, that in the neighbourhood of 
 mountains and great rivers, very material changes have taken 
 place in the courfe of a few ages. The fragments of the 
 former, worn away by the alternate a(3;ion of the fun and rains 
 are borne down by the torrents of the latter, and depofited in 
 the eddies formed by the two banks of the rivers where they 
 join the fea, producing thus aliuvious land as, for example, the 
 Delta of Egypt, which has gradually been depofited out of the 
 foil of AbyfTinia and Upper Egypt ; the plains of the northern 
 parts of China, which have been formed out of the mountains 
 of Tartary ; and thofe of India from the Thebetian mountains 
 and the other high lands to the northward and weft ward of the 
 peninfula. As, however, a much greater proportion of the frag- 
 ments borne down by rivers muft be depofited in the bofouv 
 of the deep than on its (hores, the fea by this confiiant and effec- 
 tive operation ought rather to advance than to retreat. We may 
 therefore, perhaps, conclude that, whatever the changes may 
 have been which the furface of the earth has undergone, with 
 regard to the proportion and the pofition of land and water the 
 appearances v/e now behold in various parts of the globe can 
 only be explained by fuppofing fome temporary and preterna- 
 tural caufe, or elfe by aflliming an incalculable period of time 
 for their produdion. 
 
 But to return from this digreffion to the more immediate fub- 
 je£t of the prefent fedion. It is fufficiently remarkable, and 
 no inconfiderable proof of the truth of the Sacred Writings, 
 that almoft every nation has fome traditionary account of a de- 
 luge, fome making it imiverfal, and others local : prefuming, 
 
 however.
 
 432 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 however, the former to be corredl, which is not only juftified 
 by the teftimony of the auihor of the Pentateuch, bat by na- 
 tural appearances, it might perhaps be fliewn, with no great 
 deviation from the generally received opinion, that, inftead of 
 Perfia being the hive in which was preferved a remnant of the 
 ancient world for the continuation of the fpecies, thcfe who 
 have fuppofed Tartary to be the cradle, from whence the prefent 
 race of men ilTued, have adopted the more plaufible ccnjedture. 
 If it be borne in mind that, in every part of the bible hiftory, 
 the expreflions are accommodated to the underftandings of thofe 
 for whom ihey were intended, rather than ftridtly conformable 
 to fadls, and more confonant to appearances than realities, it 
 may be fuppofed, without any oiFence to the moft rigid be- 
 liever, that by the mount Ararat was not ftri<3;ly meant the 
 identical mountain of that name, which has been recognized in 
 Armenia, but rather the highefl: mountain on the face of the 
 globe ; for, if this were not the cafe, the Mofaic account would 
 be contradidory in itfelf, as we are told that, " all the high 
 " hills that were under the whole Heaven were covered." This 
 conceflion being allowed, we may fuppofe that the ark, inftead 
 of refting in Armenia, firft ftruck ground in that part of Tar- 
 tary which is now inhabited by the Eleuths, as being the moft 
 elevated tradl of country in the old world. From thefe heights 
 large rivers flow towards every quarter of the horizon. It is 
 here that the fources of the Selenga are found, defcending to the 
 northward into the lake Baikal, and from thence by the Ene- 
 fei and the Lena into the Frozen Ocean : of the Amour, which 
 empties its waters to the eaftward into the gulph of Tartary : 
 of the two great rivers of China flowing to the fouthward, and 
 
 3 of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 433 
 
 of numberlefs lakes and rivers difcharging their waters to the 
 weftward, fome burying themfelves in deferts of fand, and 
 others working tlieir way to the great lake of Aral and the Caf- 
 pian Tea. 
 
 From fuch a fituation, admitting the earth to have been peopled 
 in fucceffion, the two great rivers which took the foutherly di- 
 redion and crofled the fertile and extenfive plains of China, 
 were fully as likely to diredl the few furvivors of the deluge to 
 this country, as that they IhoulJ follow any of the other dreams; 
 and probably more fo, as thefe led to a warmer and more com- 
 fortable climate, where fewer wants were felt and thofe few 
 more eafily fupplied. Confidered in this point of view, the opi- 
 nion of the Jefuits will not appear fo ill founded, which fup- 
 pofes that Noah, feparating from his rebellious family, travelled 
 with a part of his offspring into the eaft, and founded the Chinefe 
 monarchy ; and that he is the fame perfon as the Foo-Jhee * of 
 their hiftory. The words of fcriptureyro?« the eajl^ an ingeni- 
 ous commentator has obferved, ought more properly to be 
 tranflated, at the beg'wniiig. At all events, the fa£l I conclude 
 to be irrefiftible, that the Tartars and the Chinefe have one com- 
 mon origin, and the queftion then is fimply this, whether the 
 fertile plains of China were abandoned for the bleak and barren 
 heights of Tartary, or that the wandering and tjalf-famifhed 
 
 * As a corroborating proof of the Chinefe being of Scythic origin, it may be 
 obferved, that the adjunft charafter Wt-f (to tlie family name Foo) is compofed of a 
 Jheeb, rice, an arrow, and the conjundlive chara(fter a!fo, from whence may be inferred 
 that he united the occupations oijhepherd, agricuhurijl, and warrior, 
 
 3 K Scythians
 
 434 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Scythians defcended into regions whofe temperature and pro- 
 dudions were more congenial to the nature of man. 
 
 *t3"- 
 
 If, however, we allow China to have been among the firft 
 nations formed after the flood, it does not appear to have kept 
 pace in learning and in arts with the Chaldeans, the AlTyrians, 
 or the Egyptians. Before the time of Confucius, its progrefs 
 in civilization feems to have been very flow. He was the firfl 
 perfonwho digefted any thing like a hiflory of the kings of 
 Loo ; for, in his time, the country was divided among a num- 
 ber of petty princes, who lived at the head of their families, 
 much in the fame manner as formerly the chiefs of the clans in 
 the Highlands of Scotland ; or, perhaps, more properly fpeak- 
 ing, like the German princes, whofe petty fl:ates are. fo many- 
 parts of one great empire. It is now about two thoufand years 
 fmce the feveral monarchies were confolidated in one undivded 
 and abfolute empire. There are feveral reafons for fuppofing 
 that, before this period, China made no great figure among the 
 poliflied nations of the world, although it produced a Confucius, 
 fome of whofe works demonfl:rate a vigorous and an enlightened 
 mind. From the commentaries of this philofopher on one of 
 their clafllcal books *, it would appear that a regular fuccefllon of 
 Emperors could be traced near two thoufand years back from 
 his time, or more than four thoufand years from the prefent 
 period. The duration of the dynafliies, with their feveral Em- 
 perors, which he enumerates, and the detail of occurrences 
 in each reign, make the truth of the hiilory fufficiently plaufi- 
 ble, though the chronology, from their total ignorance of aftro- 
 
 • The Shoo-hing. 
 
 nomy,
 
 TRAVELS IN CFIINA. 435 
 
 nomy, mull: neceflarily be defedlive. It is flill aa extraordi- 
 nary circumrtance, that none of the ancient claflical authors 
 fliould have had the Icall knowledge of fuch a nation. Homer 
 neither mentions them nor makes any allufion to fuch 1 people; 
 and Herodotus feems to have been equally ignorant of their 
 cxiftence ; and yet, according to the befl: chronologifts, Hero- 
 dotus and Confucius muft have been contemporaries. It may 
 fairly be concluded then, that the early Greeks had no know- 
 ledge of the Chinefe. Even more than a century after the father 
 of hiftory flourifhed, when the Perfian empire was overthrown 
 by Alexander, it does not appear that the Chinefe were known 
 to this nation ; which in all probability would have been the 
 cafe, notwithftanding their averfion to any intercourfe with fo- 
 reigners, had they conflituted, at that time, a large and power- 
 ful empire ; perhaps, indeed, the ignorance of the Perfians might 
 arife from the intervention of the civilized nations of India, whofe 
 numbers might have made it prudent in the former to dire(fi 
 their arms conftantly towards the weft rather than to the caft. 
 
 It has been an opinion pretty generally adopted, that the 
 people known to the ancients by the name of Seres were the 
 fame as the Chinefe, partly on account of their eaPtern lltuation, 
 and partly becaufe the principal filk manufaQures were fup- 
 pofed to be brought from thence, which gave the Romans oc- 
 cafion to name the country Ser'unm. The Romans, however, 
 received the trifling quantity of filk made ufe of by them from 
 Perfia, and not from China, nor from the country of the Seres. 
 Nor is it probable, that the latter fhould be the Chinefe, who 
 are faid to have fent an embaffy to Auguftus, in order to court 
 
 3 K 2 the
 
 436 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the fri^nclfhlp of the Romans, it being fo very contrary to their 
 fundamental laws, which not only prohibit any intercourfe 
 with ftrangers, but allow not any of the natives to leave the 
 country. The faifl, indeed, of this embafly refts folely upon 
 the authority of Lucius A. Floras, who wrote his hiftory, if it 
 may fo be called, nearly a century after the death of Auguftus : 
 and, as none of the hiftorians contemporary with that Emperor, 
 take any notice of fuch an event, it is more than probable 
 that no fuch embafly was fent to Rome *. 
 
 The 
 
 * Ptolemy, the Geographer, places Serlca adjoining to Scythia, extra Imaum, cor- 
 refponding with Cafhgar, Tangut, and Kitai, countries famous for the cultivation 
 of the cotton plant. It would feem, indeed, from all the paffages which occur in 
 ancient authors concerning the Seres, that cotton was the fubftance alluded to, 
 rather than filk, and that thefe people were not the prefent Chinefe, but the Tartars 
 of Kitai. 
 
 ^id mmora JEthiopum molli canentia lana ? 
 Vellera^ue utfoliis depeSant tenuia Seres r 
 
 Virg. Georg. ii. v. 120. 
 
 Primique ncva Phaethonte reteiii 
 
 Seres lanigeris repttebant ^ellera lucis, 
 
 Sil. Ital. 1. 6. V. 3. 
 
 ^od molli tondent dejiipite Seres 
 
 Frondea lanigera carpenUs vellera Silva. 
 
 Claudiiin, 
 
 Seres lanifido Syl-uarum nobiles perfu/am ajud depeiieittes frondiiim canuiem . 
 
 Plin. 1.6. 17. 
 
 Horace malces the Seres expert in drawing the bow, a weapon in the ufe of which the 
 Scythians were always famous. 
 
 Do9ui Sagittas tendere Serieas 
 Arcu paterno ? 
 
 Hor. lib. i. Od. 29. v. 9.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 437 
 
 The firft people that we know to have travelled into China 
 was a colony of Jews who, according to the records kept by 
 their defcendants, and which I underftood from fome of the 
 miffionaries are corroborated as to the time by Chinefe hiftory, 
 firft fettled there fhortly after the expedition of Alexander had 
 opened a communication with India. Nor is it at all improba- 
 ble that this adventurous and induftrious people were the firft 
 to carry with them, into their new country, the filk worm and 
 the mode of rearingit,eitherfromPerfia,or fome of the neighbour- 
 ing countries. The Emperor Kaung-JJjee, in his obfervations on 
 natural hiftory, takes notice that the Chinefe are greatly miftaken 
 vrhen they fay that filk was an exclufive product of China, for 
 that the upper regions of India have a native worm of a larger 
 growth, and which fpins a ftronger filk than any in China. 
 Although indeed ancient authors are filent as to the'article of filk, 
 there are grounds for fuppofing it was not unknown in Tangut 
 and Kitai. Several expreffions in the Bible warrant the opi- 
 nion that filk was ufed in the time of Solomon, and the vejies 
 'ferliicidce ac Jiiddcs Medis of Juftin feem to convey a defcrip- 
 tion of filken robes. This mode of the firft introdu£lion of filk 
 into China is offered as mere conjecture, for which I have no 
 other authority in fupport of, than what is here mentioned, with 
 
 It certainly cannot be inferred that by the Seres, in any of the above quotations, was 
 meant the fame people as the prefent Chinefe ; on the contrary, the probability is 
 that it did not allude to this nation, and that the ancients had not the. leaft know- 
 ledge of its exiftence. It appears from another palTage in Pliny, that the bed iron in 
 the world was in Serlcum, and that the Seres exported it with their cloths and fkins. 
 The iron of the Chinefe, as I have had occafion to obferve, is remarkably bad, and 
 all their articles of peltry are imported. 
 
 the
 
 4^3 TRAVELS INCIIINA. 
 
 t]ie circumftance of the Jews being fettled chiefly in the fi'.k 
 provinces, and of their being at this time in confiderable num- 
 bers near Hang-tchoo-foo, where they carry on the principal 
 trade in this article, and have acquired the reputation of fabri- 
 cating the beft fluffs of this material that are made in China ; 
 nor do I know in what other way they could recommend them- 
 felves to the Ghinefe, fo far as to have obtained the prote»n.ion 
 of this jealous government, and to be allowed to intermarry 
 with the women of the country. It is true they have pradifed 
 no underhand attempts to feduce the natives from their paternal 
 religion, and to perfuade them to embrace their own ; and al- 
 though they are not very famous for the cultivation of the 
 fciences, yet they might have rendered themfelves extremely 
 iifeful in fuggeftlng improvements in many of the arts and ma- 
 nufaiStures. Many of them, indeed, forfake the religion of their 
 forefathers, and arrive at high employments in the Hate. Few 
 among them, I underftand, except the Rabbis, have any know- 
 ledge of the Hebrew language, and they have long been fo in- 
 termixed with the Chinefe, that the priefts at the prefent day 
 are faid to find fome difficulty in keeping up their congrega- 
 tions. So different are the effeds produced by fuffcring, in- 
 ftead of perfecuting, religious opinions. 
 
 One of the miffionaries has given an account of his vifit to a 
 fynagogue of Jews in China. He found the priefts moft rigo- 
 roufly attached to their old law : nor had they the leaft know- 
 ledge of any other Jefus having appeared in the world, except 
 the fon of Sirach, of whom, he fays, their hiflory makes men- 
 tion. If this be really the fad, their anceftors could not have 
 
 been 
 
 {
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 439 
 
 been any part of the ten tribes that were carried into captivity, 
 but may rather be fuppofed to have been among the followers 
 of Alexander's army, which agrees with their own account of 
 the time they firft fettled in China. They poflefTed a copy of 
 the Pentateuch and fome other fragments of the Sacred Writ- 
 ings, which they had brought along with them from the weft- 
 ward, but the miflionary's information is very imperfect, as he 
 was ignorant of the Hebrew language *. 
 
 Although a very great fimilarity is obfervable between many 
 of the ancient Jewifh rites and ceremonies and thofe in ufe 
 among the Chinefe, yet there feems to be no reafon for fup- 
 pofmg that the latter received any part of their religion from the 
 
 * All nur enquiries, in pridlaj the city of Hang-tclioo-foo, were fruitlefs with re- 
 gard to thefe Ifraelitcs. We had hitherto entertained a hope of being able to pro- 
 cure, in the coiirfe of our journey, a copy of this ancient monument of the Jewifh 
 hiftory^ which the late Dodlor Geddes confidered as very defirable to compare with 
 thofe ah-eaJy in Europe ; but the hafty manner in which we travelled, and the re- 
 pugnance fhewn by our conducing officers, Chou and Van excepted, who had little 
 power or influence in the provinces, to enter into any of our views that might ap- 
 pear to occafion delay, prevented the fulfilment of thofe hopes. It were much to be 
 wifhed, that the reverend miffionaries would fo far lay afide their antipathy againft 
 opinions, not exaftly coinciding with their own, and enter into fuch a correfpondence 
 with the Jews, as would obtain from them, which they are no doubt poffl-flld of, an 
 account of the progrefs made by the Chinefe in civilization and arts, fince their firft 
 fettling in that country, and of other particulars noted down by them. The circum- 
 ftance of their carrying with them their code of laws, and the hiftory of their tribes, 
 is afufficient proof that they underftood a written language which, there can be no 
 doubt> they would ufe the utmoft caution not to lofe. Such an account would be 
 more authentic than the Chinefe annals, the bed of which abound in hyperbole, and 
 contain fails fo difguifed in metaphor, that it is no eafy matter to extrail from them 
 the fimple truth. At all events, the comparifoa of the two hiftories would ferve to 
 verify each other. 
 
 anceftors
 
 440 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 anceftors of thofe Jews that are ftill in the country. This, 
 however, is not the cafe with regard to the priefts of Budha, 
 who, according to the Chinefe records, came by the invitation 
 of one of their Emperors from fome part of India, near Thi- 
 bet, about the fixtieth year of the Chriftian era. Thefe priefts 
 fucceeded fo well in introducing the worfliip of Budha, that it 
 continues to this day to be one of the popular religions of the 
 country ; and that no traces of the original name fhould remain 
 is the lefs furprifing, as they could not poflibly pronounce either 
 the B or the D ; befide, they make it an invariable rule, as 1 have 
 already obferved, not to adopt any foreign names. 
 
 In fome part of the feventh century, a few Chriftians of the 
 Neftorian fedl pafled from India into China where, for a time, 
 they were tolerated by the government. But, having moft 
 probably prefumed upon its indulgence, and endeavoured to 
 feduce the people from the eftablifhed religions of the country, 
 they were expofed to dreadful perfecutions, and were at length 
 entirely extirpated, after numberlefs inftances of their fuffering 
 martyrdom for the opinions they had undertaken to propagate 
 to the " utmoft corners of the earth." When Gengis-Khan 
 invaded China, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, a 
 number of Chriftians of the Greek church followed his army 
 into this country ; and they met with fuch great encouragement 
 from the Tartars, that when Kublai-Khan fucceeded to the go- 
 vernment and built the city of Pekin, he gave them a grant 
 of ground within the walls of the city for the purpofe of build- 
 ing a church, in order to retain in the empire men of fo much 
 learning and of abilities fo much fuperior to thofe of the 
 
 I Chinefe ;
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 441 
 
 Chlnefe ; who, however, on their part, have afFeded, in their 
 hiftory, to confider the Monguls as the greateft barbarians, for 
 turning their horfes into the apartments of the palaces, while 
 they themfelves were contented to pitch their tents in the courts 
 or quadrangular fpaces furrounded by the buildings. Father 
 Le Compte, in his memoirs of China, fays, but I know not on 
 what authority, that at the taking of the city of Nankin the 
 Tartars put all the Chinefe women in facks, without regard to 
 age or rank, and fold them to the higheft bidder; and that 
 fuch as, in thus " buying the pig in the poke," happened to 
 purchafe an old, ugly, or deformed bargain, made no ceremony 
 in throwing it into the river. If Father Le Compte was not 
 the inventor of this, among many other of his pleafant 
 ftories, it certainly tells as little in favour of the Chinefe, who 
 muft have been the purchafers, as of the Tartars ; but we will 
 charitably fuppofe the thing never happened. It feems, how- 
 ever, that the overthrow of the Chinefe empire by the Mongul 
 Tartars, was an event not to be regretted by the nation at large. 
 By means of the learned and fcientiflc men, who accompanied 
 the expedition from Balk and Samarcand, aftronomy was im- 
 proved, their calendar was corredled, inftruments for making 
 celeftial obfervations were introduced, and the dired commu- 
 nication between the two extremities of the empire was opened, 
 by converting the ftreams of rivers into an artificial bed, form- 
 ing an inland navigation, not to be paralleled in any other part 
 of the world. 
 
 It was about this period when the celebrated Venetian tra- 
 veller Marco Polo vifued the Tartar Khan, then fitting on the 
 
 3 L throne
 
 44a TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 throne of China ; and who, on his return, gave the firft ac- 
 counts of this extraordinary empire ; which appeared indeed fo 
 wonderful that they were generally confidered as his own in- 
 ventions. His relations of the magnificent and fplendid palaces 
 of the Emperor, of his immenfe wealth, of the extent of his 
 empire, and the vaft multitudes of people, were held to be fo 
 many fabrications ; and as, in fpeaking of thefe fubjeds, he 
 feldom made ufe of a lower term than millions, his country- 
 men beftowed upon him the epithet of Slgnor Marco MiUione — 
 Mr. Mark Million. They had no hefitation, however, in giv- 
 ing credit to the only incredible part of his narrative, where he 
 relates a few miracles that were performed, in the courfe of his 
 journey through Perfia, by fome Neftorean Chrlftians. Young 
 Marco is faid to have accompanied three miflionaries of the 
 Dominican order, fent from Venice to the capital of China, 
 at the exprefs defire of Kublai-Khan ; but, whether they met 
 with little encouragement in the objeft of their million, on 
 account of being preceded by the Chrlftians of the Greek 
 church, or their zeal at that time was lefs ardent than In later 
 days, is not ftated ; but it feems they did not remain long in 
 the Eaft, returning very foon to their native country much 
 enriched by their travels. 
 
 During the continuance of the Tartar government, which 
 •was not quite a century, great numbers of Mahomedans like- 
 wife found their way from Arabia to China. Thefe people had 
 long, indeed, been in the habit of carrying on a commercial 
 intercourfe with the Chinefe ; which, however, as at the pre- 
 sent day, extended no further than the fea-ports on the fouthern 
 
 coaft.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 443 
 
 coaft. They now found no difficulty in getting accefs to the 
 capital, where they rendered themfelves particularly ufeful in 
 adjufting the chronology of the nation, and making the necef- 
 fary calculations for the yearly calendar. Having acquired the 
 "language and adopted the drefs and manners of the people, 
 by degrees they turned their thoughts to the extending of their 
 religious principles, and bringing the whole country to embrace 
 the dodrinc of their great prophet. For this end, they bought 
 and educated at their own expence fuch children of poor 
 people as were likely to be expofed in times of famine ; and 
 they employed perfons to pick up, in the ftreets of the capital, 
 any infants that fliould be thrown out in the courfe of the 
 night, and who were not too much weakened or otherwife 
 injured to be recovered. 
 
 About the middle of the fixteenth century, feveral Roman 
 Catholic miflionaries, of the order of Jefus, penetrated into the 
 Eaft ; and the indefatigable zeal of one of thefe, Francis Xavier, 
 carried him as far as San-Shian^ a fmall ifland on the coafl of 
 China, where he died in the year 1552, in confequence of the 
 uncommon fatigues he had undergone. His brother miffiona- 
 ries have calculated that he travelled, on foot, not lefs than one 
 hundred thoufand Englifli miles, a great part of which was over 
 mountains and defarts and forefts and burning fands. Since 
 a more eafy communication with India and China has been 
 €ffe£l:ed by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, numbers of 
 miffionaries of the Catholic religion have volunteered their fer- 
 vices into thofe countries; and although the fole objedt of their 
 miffion is the propagation of the Chriftian faith, they find it 
 
 3 L 2 neccflary,
 
 444 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 neceflary, in order to forward that obje£t, to make themfelves 
 ufeful to the government. In China, they are occafionally em- 
 ployed as aftronomers, mathematicians, mechanics, and inter- 
 preters. " It muft have appeared a fmgular fpe£tacle," obferves 
 Sir George Staunton, " to every clafs of beholders, to fee men 
 *' actuated by motives different from thofe of moft human 
 " adtions, quitting for ever their country and their connexions, 
 " to devote themfelves for life to the purpofes of changing 
 " the tenets of a people they had never feen ; and in purfuing 
 " that objedl to run every rifle, fuffer every perfecution, and 
 " facrifice every comfort ; infmuating themfelves, by addrefs, 
 " by talent, by perfeverance, by humility, by application to 
 " ftudies foreign from their original education, or by the culti- 
 " vation of arts to which they had not been bred, into notice 
 " and proteftion ; overcoming the prejudices of being ftrangers 
 " in a country where moft ftrangers were prohibited, and where 
 " it was a crime to have abandoned the tombs of their ancefiors, 
 " and gaining, at length, eftablifliments neceflary for the pro- 
 " pagation of their faith, without turning their influence to any 
 " perfonal advantage." 
 
 Moft of thofe, however, who were eftabllflied in Pekin, to 
 the fpiritual confolation of having laboured in the vineyard of 
 the gofpel not altogether in vain (for they do fometimes gain 
 a profelyte) add the fubftantial fatisfadlion of not having ne- 
 glected their worldly concerns. Befides the emoluments arifmg 
 from their feveral communities, they have ftiops and houfes in 
 the capital, which they rent to Chinefe. They have alfo their 
 country villas and eftates, where they cultivate the vine and 
 
 other
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 445 
 
 other fruits, and make their own wine. The revenues of the 
 two Portuguefe feminaries are Hated to amount to twelve 
 thoufand ounces of filver, or four thoufand pounds a year. 
 The mifTion de propaganda jide is poor. The French Jefuits 
 were once rich ; but their property was diflipated on the diflb- 
 lution of their fociety. The French mijjions etrangeres drew on 
 their fuperiors at Paris before the revolution, but fince that event 
 are reduced to a moft deplorable fituation. And it feemed to 
 me, from what I could perceive at Tuen-m'in-yuen, that they 
 were not much difpofed to affift one another. Each nation 
 had its feparate intereft, and they were not willing to lofe any 
 opportunity of calumniating their fellow-labourers. The French 
 and Italians were the moft moderate and liberal ; the Portuguefe 
 the moft inveterate. The miflionarles of this nation appeared 
 to be Infpired with a jealoufy and hatred, more than theological, 
 againft the reft. It is faid indeed that their rich pofTeffions, and 
 the high fituations they unworthily hold in the board of mathe- 
 matics, render them jealous of all other Europeans ; and they 
 ufe every means of excluding them from the country. 
 
 From the frequent diflenfions, indeed , among the different 
 orders, and their perpetual broils, originated the perfecutions 
 which they and their profelytes fuffered in China. The moft 
 violent of thefe difputes was carried on between the Jefuits 
 and the Dominicans. The Jefuits endeavoured to afllmilate 
 their dodiines and their opinions to thofe of the Chinefe, at 
 leaft as far as they confcientioufly could venture to do, in confor- 
 mity to the nature of their miffion ; by which means, together 
 with their apparently difmterefted condud, they foon colleded 
 3 a numerous
 
 446 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 a numerous fet of followers, half Chriftians and half Pagans. 
 Unluckily for the caufe of Chriflianity, a different fedt of the 
 fame religion, but with prlp.ciples more auftere and of courfe 
 lefs tolerant of others that deviated from their own, fpeedily 
 followed the Jefults into the Kali. The Dominicans, meeting 
 with fome of the half-chriftianized converts, foon gave them 
 to underftand that nothing lefs than eternal damnation would 
 be the lot of all fuch as did not forfake their ancient fuperfti- 
 tions*and idolatrous pradices ; and efpecially that of facrificing 
 to their deceafed relations in the Hall of Anceftors. The Fran- 
 cifcans having joined the Dominicans they reprefented to the 
 Pope the abominable praaices of the Jefuits, who had perfuaded 
 the Chinefe they were come among them for the fole purpofe of 
 reftoring their ancient religion to its original purity, as deli- 
 vered by their Great Philolopher Confucius. The Pope, upon 
 this, fent over a bull, interdifting all the miffionaries in China 
 from admitting any extraneous ceremonies or idolatrous wor- 
 fhip, to be blended with thofe of Holy Catholic Church. 
 
 The Jefuits, however, by their fuperior talents, having made 
 themfelves ufeful at court, and obtained the notice and protec- 
 tion of Caung-Sbee the ruling monarch, and the greateft perhaps 
 that ever filled the throne of China, treated this bull with 
 contempt, and continued to make converts in their own way. 
 They even obtained from the Emperor a fum of money and a 
 grant of land, towards building a church in Pekin. And they 
 further managed their affairs fo well as to procure, from the fuc- 
 ceeding Pope, a difpenfation in favour of their mode of pro- 
 ceeding to convert the Chinefe to Chriflianity. The Domini- 
 cans
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 447 
 
 cans and Fianclfcans, piqued beyond meafure at the fuccefs of 
 the Jeluits, reprefented them to the Pope, in the ftrongeft terms, 
 as the greateft enemies to the Chriftian faith. The Jefuits, in 
 their turn, tranfmitted to Rome a manifcfto, figned by the Em- 
 peror himfelf, attcfting that the ceremonies of homage to the 
 dead, retained by the Chinefe Ghriftians, were not of a religious 
 but a civil nature, agreeable to the long eftablifhed laws of the 
 empire, which could not, on any confideration, be difpenfed 
 with. In fliort, their difputes and quarrels ran fo high, 
 and proceeded to fuch lengths ; and Bulls and EmbafTadors 
 were fent from Rome, with fuch imperious and threatening 
 commands for the Chinefe Ghriftians to defift from all ceremo- 
 nies that were not warranted by the catholic church, that the 
 Emperor began to think it was high time to interpofe his autho- 
 rity, and to interdict the Chriftian religion from being preached 
 at all in his dominions. And his fon and fucceflbr Yuuv chin 
 commenced his reign with violent perfecutions againft the mif- 
 fionaries. He ordered many of them immediately out of the 
 empire ; others were thrown into prifon *, where they lingered 
 
 out 
 
 • In the year 1735, Kien Long liberated, by a public edift, twelve millionaries 
 out of prifon, who, being deteftcd in privately feducing the Chinefe from the reli- 
 gion and cufloms of the country, had been condemned to perpetual iniprifonment. 
 This edidt, of which 1 procured a copy in Pekin, does great honour to the humane 
 and benevolent mind of the Emperor. After dating their crime, apprehenfion, 
 and trial, he obferves, " Had they made known their arrival to the officers of 
 
 • government, they might have proceeded to the capital and found proteflion. 
 ' But as tranfgrefTors of the law, which forbids the entrance offtrangers, they have 
 ' ftolen into the country, and fecretly endeavoured to multiply amverts to their 
 ■• way of thinking, it became my duty to oppofe a condufl fo deceitful, and. to put 
 
 * a ftop to the progrefs of feduftion. Juftly as they were found to dcferve the 
 ' punilhment to which they havs been condemned, touched, neverthelefs, with 
 
 " conipaOion
 
 448 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 out a miferable life; and fome were put to death by the bow- 
 ftring. Thofe few, who were found neceflary to affift hi the 
 aftronomical part of the calendar, he allowed to remain in the 
 capital. 
 
 Notwithftanding the perfecutionsthat,in every reign, have been 
 violently carried on againfl them by the officers of government 
 in the feveral provinces, numbers of new miflionaries have con- 
 tinued, from time to time, to fteal into the country. At Macao 
 we found two young miflionaries, who had been waiting there 
 a long time, in vain, for an opportunity of getting privately 
 into the country. They accufed the Portuguefe of throwing 
 every obftacle in their way, while pretending to afibrd them 
 afliftance ; but, on application to the Britifh Embaflador, he 
 found no difficulty in procuring them leave to proceed to the 
 capital ; and as one of thefe gentlemen had been a pupil of the 
 celebrated La Lande, his fervices may probably fuperfede thofe 
 of the right reverend bifliop who at prefent dire£ls the aftro- 
 nomical part of the important national almanack. 
 
 From the fhort view that has here been taken of the diffe- 
 rent people who, at various limes, have gained admiflion into 
 China, and forae of them for no other purpofe than that of 
 
 " companion for their imprudence, it was not without injury to my feelings that I rati- 
 •' fied the fentence. But recolletSing afterwards that they were flrangers — ftrangers 
 •' perhaps ignorant of the laws of my empire, my compafllon increafed for them, 
 " and humanity fufFers on account of their long confinement. I will, therefore, 
 " and command that thefe twelve ftrangers be fet at liberty." 
 
 difleminating
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 449 
 
 difTemlnating their religious tenets, it may be concluded, that 
 the primitive worfliip of the country has experienced many 
 changes and innovations, efpecially fince the mafs of the people, 
 from the nature of the language, the maxims of the govern- 
 ment, and other circumftances, have always been kept in a ftate 
 of profound ignorance. Jews, Chriftians, Indians, and Ma- 
 homedans, have feverally met with encouragement. The Jefuits 
 had but one obftacle to overcome, the law that directed offer- 
 ings to be made to deceafed relations, and by giving way to 
 this, which they were inclined to do had they not been 
 thwarted by the more rigorous Dominicans, they might have 
 converted the whole nation and Chriftianity would have be- 
 come, in all probability, the prevailing religion, inftead of that 
 introduced from India. The paraphernalia and almoft all the 
 mummeries of the Romifh church, the bells, the beads, the 
 altars, the images, the candles, the drefs, and the fandimo- 
 nious deportment of the priefts in the hours of devotion, their 
 chauntlng and their incenfe, were already made familiar to the 
 people in every temple of Fo. But, as Lord Macartney has 
 obferved, " the prohibition or reftridlion of fenfual gratifica- 
 ' " tions in a defpotic country, where there are fo few others, is 
 " difficult to be relifhed. Confcffion is repugnant to the clofe 
 " and fufpicious characler of the nation, and penance would 
 " but aggravate the mifery of him wTiofe inheritance is his 
 " labour, and poverty his punifhment. Againft it alfo is the 
 " ftate of fociety in China, which excludes women from their 
 " proper fhare of influence and importance. A religion which 
 " requires that women fhould at ftated times communicate to 
 " priefts, in private, their thoughts and adtions, muft be parti- 
 
 3 M cularljr
 
 450 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " cularly difgufting to a Chinefe hufband, who had not hlm- 
 
 " felf been fufFered to fee his wife till the day of his marriage ;. 
 
 " and who but feldom allows her afterwards to fee even her 
 
 *' near relations of another fex. A religion like that of Ma- 
 
 " hornet can only be extended by violence and terror; for the 
 
 " natural ftubbornnefs of men does not readily give way to 
 
 " novel impreflions ; but the mild fpirit of the gofpel is alone 
 
 " to be infufed through the means of gentlenefs, perfuafion, 
 
 " and imperceptible perfeverance. Thefe are the proper inftru- 
 
 '* ments of convertion, and peculiarly belong to the fair fc.v, 
 
 " whofe eloquence, on fuch occafions, giv^es charms to devo- 
 
 " tion and ornaments to truth. The earliefl: ftages of Chrif- 
 
 *' tianity received no fmall fupport froai female agency and 
 
 •* example ; and for what fhew of religion flill appears in our 
 
 " churches, we are furely not a little indebted to the piety and 
 
 -" attendance of women." Nothing, in faft, more tended to 
 
 alarm the Chinefe than the imprudent practice of the Romifii 
 
 miflionaries of feducing the Chinefe women to their churches 
 
 whom, as they avow in their correfpondence, they fometimes 
 
 coaxed out of their jewels and money ; adding, by way of jufti- 
 
 fication, that it was to promote the fervice of God. 
 
 The primitive religion of China or, at leaft, thofe opinions, 
 rites, and ceremonies that prevailed in the time of Confucius, 
 (and before that period all feems to be fable and uncertainty) 
 may be pretty nearly afcertained from the writings that are 
 afcribed to that philofopher. He maintains in his phyfics, 
 that " out of nothing there cannot poflibly be produced any 
 *' thing; — that material bodies muft have exifted from all eter- 
 
 " nity ;
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 451 
 
 ** nity ; — that the caufe [lee, rcafoii) or principle of things, muft 
 " have had a co-exiftence with the things themfelves ; — that, 
 " therefore, this caufe is alfo eternal, infinite, indeftrudible, 
 " without limits, omnipotent and omniprefent ; — that the cen- 
 " tral point of influence (j'?rf//o-/>6) from when ge this caufe prin- 
 " cipally ads, is the blue firmament {tieii) from whence its 
 " emanations fpread over the whole univerfc ;— that it is, 
 " therefore, the fupreme duty of the prince, in the name of 
 his fubjeds, to prefent offerings to //V;/, and particularly at the 
 equinoxes, the one for obtaining a propitious feed-time, and 
 the other a plentiful harveft." 
 
 Thefe offerings to the Deity, it may be obferved, were al- 
 ways placed on a large ftone, or heap of ftones, ereded on the 
 fummit of a high mountain, on the fuppofition, probably, that 
 their influence would be fo much the greater, in proportion as 
 they {hould approach the feat and fountain of creative power ; 
 like the ancient Perfians who, according to Herodotus, confider- 
 ed the whole circle of the Heavens to be the great ruling power 
 of the univerfe, to v,h!ch they alfo facrificed on high moun- 
 tains. Thus Tacitus, in fpeaking of the practice of worfhip- 
 ing the gods on high mountains, obferves, that the nearer mor- 
 tals can approach the heavens, the more diftindly will their 
 prayers be heard ; and on the fame principle, Seneca fays, that 
 the people always ftrove for the feat next to the image of the 
 deity in the temples, that their prayers might be the better 
 heard. Thus alfo Noah, after quitting the ark, built an altar 
 on the mountain where it refted, and made a burnt-offering, 
 whofe fmoke afcending to htaven was pleafing to the Lord. 
 
 3 M 2 And
 
 452 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 And Abraham was commanded to offer his only fon liaac on a 
 mountain in the land of Moria ; and Balak carried Balaam to 
 the top of Mount Pifgah to offer a facrifice there, and to curfe 
 Ifrael. Thus, indeed, all nations in their infancy adopted the 
 natural idea of paying adoration to Heaven from high places. 
 
 The large ftones, or the heaps of ftones, that have been ap- 
 propriated for religious ufes at different times, in almoft every 
 part of the world, might have been introduced, as Lord Kames 
 fuppofes, from the cuftom among favage nations to mark with 
 a great ftone the place where their worthies were interred : that 
 fuch worthies being at length deified, in the fuperftitious no- 
 tions of their votaries, the ftones that were dedicated to their 
 memory became effential in every a£l: of religious worfhip per- 
 formed in honour of their new deities. The very particular 
 homage, that for time immemorial has been paid to the me- 
 mory of the dead by the Chinefe, renders the above explana- 
 tion extremely probable as to the origin of their altar of four 
 ftones which in their language are called Taw, and which in 
 former times were ere£ted on moft of their high mountains ; 
 and it is fmgular enough that, at the prefent day, the tan 
 fhould be reprefented, upon many of the altars ereded in their 
 temples, by four loofe ftones placed on the four corners of the 
 altar, as the horns were in the corners of the Jewifh akars. 
 When population increafed, and the people were fpread wide 
 over the empire, the inconvenience of afcending any parti- 
 cular mountain muft neceffarily be felt, and the tan was then 
 transferred to places that were better fuited for general ac- 
 commodation. The lame idea iadeed is ftill retained in our 
 
 3 churches.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 453 
 
 churches, the altar and high place being fynonimous words. In 
 the city of Pekin, which ftands on a fandy plain, the lien-tan^ 
 or altar of Heaven; xhc tee-tan or altar of earth ; and i\\e ften- 
 nong-tan or altar of ancient agriculturifts, are ereded upon arti- 
 ficial mounts within the walls of the palace; and here the Em- 
 peror continues, to this day, to facrifice at appointed times, 
 exclufively, as the fon of Heaven, and the only being on earth 
 worthy to intercede for his people. The fame dodlrine pre- 
 vailed in the time of Confucius, who obferves, that the diftance 
 between the all-creative power, or caufe of all things, and the 
 people is fo immeafurably great, that the king or ruler, as high 
 prieft, can alone offer fuch a facrifice ; and that this power is 
 beft fatisfied when man performs the moral duties of life ; the 
 principal of which he makes to confift in filial piety,and unlimited 
 obedience to the will of the prince. 
 
 His religious notions and morals do him great credit, but 
 his metaphyfics are fo obfcure as not to be intelligible which, 
 however, may partly be owing to the nature of the language. 
 In his writings appears a ftrong prediIe£lion for a kind of for- 
 tune-telling, or predicting events by the myftical lines oiFo-fiee. 
 By the help of thefe lines, and the prevailing element at the 
 commencement of the reign of a prince, he pretended to fore- 
 tel the events that would take place and the length of its con- 
 tinuance ; but, at the fame time, he was cautious enough to 
 wrap them up in fuch ambiguous and myfterious expreflions 
 that, like moft prophecies of the kind, they might admit of a 
 variety of interpretations. This manner of expounding the 
 lines of Fo-fliee by Confucius, the fuppofed fyftem of binary 
 
 arithmetic
 
 454 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 arithmetic by Leibnitz, laid the foundation of confulting future 
 deftiny, at this day univerfally fought after by the Chinefe *. 
 
 Predeftination in all ages, and in all nations, has formed one of 
 the leading features of religion ; and, in confideration per- 
 haps of popular opinion, has been foifled Into the articles of the 
 Chrlftian faith, though unwarranted by any pafTage in the holy 
 fcriptures. It is a do(£trine little calculated for the promotion of 
 good morals, and ftill lefs fo for conveying fpiritual confolation. 
 The Chinefe, however, confine the influence of lots to the events 
 of this life. It would perhaps be doing injuflice to the under- 
 flanding of Confucius to fuppofe, that he really believed in the 
 dodrine of fatality. Being prime minifter of one of the kings 
 of China, it was necefTiuy for him to acfl the politician as 
 
 * The government even grants licences to certain perfons, under the abiUeJ name 
 of aflronomcrs, who pretend to prcdiifl events, and cad out evil fplrits by a charm, 
 confilling of feme charader written by them, according to the fitppofed prevailing; 
 planet. The national almanack, not lefs minute in its predictions than thofe of 
 Francis Moore or Vincent Winj;, or even Partridge, points out the changes of the 
 weather in every month, with the lucky and unlucky days for undertaking moll of 
 the important concerns of life. And that the fillacy of thefe is not detcflcj, may 
 afford lefs matter for farprizc, on recollc(ftion that, in tlie wife and enlif^htened coun- 
 tries of Europe, and among very intelligent people, the ftate of the weather is pre- 
 tended to be predicted by the phafes of the moon ; that is to fay, they will prognolli- 
 cate a change of weather to happen at the new moon, or the firil quarter, or the full, 
 or the lad c|\iarter, or, at all events, three days before, or three days after one or 
 other of thefe periods ; fo that the predldor has, at the leall, eight-and-twcuty days 
 out of a lunar revolution, in favour of his prcdi<5tion being right, and the whole 
 lunation is only twenty-nine and a half. He has alfo another great advantage : the 
 accidental c^jincidence of one fmgle prophecy with the events eftablifhcs his fame 
 forever, whilll his blunders are either overlooked, or confidcred only as thofe of the 
 perfon, and not the defed of the fcicnce. 
 
 well
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 455 
 
 well as the philofopher ; and he could not fail to know, that 
 the fiiperilitions of the people were among the heft fupports of 
 the government. He might have been aware of the folly and 
 abfurdity of fuch a dodrine, and yet found it prudent to en- 
 force the obfervance of it; juft as the Greeks thought proper 
 to continue their Lots. Tliefe, inflead of fticks, as ufed by the 
 Chinefe, were three ftones that, according to fome, were firft 
 difcovered and prefented to Pallas by the nymphs, the daughters 
 of Jupiter, who rejeded an offering that rather belonged to 
 Apollo, and threw them away ; — an excellent moral, obferves 
 Dodor Tytler, the learned tranflator of the hymns and epi- 
 grams of Callimachus, fhewing that thofe perfons who are 
 guided by Pallas, or Wifdom, will improve the prefent time^ 
 without being too anxious to pry into futurity. The Greek 
 poe", however, like the Chinefe philofopher, afcribed to the 
 poflelTor of the Lots, the talent of reading future deftiny. 
 
 " By him die lure events of Lots are given ; 
 
 " By him the prophet fpe.iks the will of Heaven." Tvtler. 
 
 The Romans had alfo their lots to determine future events, 
 which were a kind of wooden dice, and their priefts examined 
 the marks and interpreted the fignification of the throw. And 
 the ancient Germans, according to Tacitus, made ufe of little 
 flicks, notched at the ends which, like the Chinefe, they 
 threw three times in cafe they did not approve of the firft 
 throw. Herodotus traces the cuftoni of prediding future 
 events to the ancient Egyptians, and feems to think the Greeks 
 had it from them. But is not the defire of prying into futu- 
 rity
 
 456 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 rlty to be afcribed rather to a weaknefs in human nature, than 
 as a curtom borrowed by one nation from another ? Are we en- 
 tirely free from it in modern Europe ? However humiliating the 
 refledion may be, yet it is certainly true, that men of the 
 ftrongeft minds and foundeft judgments have fometimes, to- 
 wards the clofe of an ufeful life, devoted their time to the ex- 
 pofition of old prophecies without meaning, or applicable only 
 to events that were already in train to be accomplifhed when 
 the predidion was made. Among many others, the great 
 Napier^ the inventor of logarithms, might be produced as an 
 inftance of this remark. From the Apocalypfe of Saint John 
 he preditled the day of judgment ; but his calculations in this 
 inftance not being founded on data equally folid with thole on 
 which he conftruded his tables, he unfortunately furvived the 
 day he had named to blufli at his own weaknefs. 
 
 Other parts of the dodrine of Confucius were well calculated 
 to keep alive the fuperftitious notions that ftill prevail among 
 the multitude. He taught them to believe that the human 
 body was compofed of two principles, the one light, invifible, 
 and afcending ; the other grofs, palpable, and defcending ; that 
 the feparation of thefe two principles caufe the death of man ; 
 that at this awful period the light and fpiritual part of the hu- 
 man body afcends into the air, whilft the grofs and corporeal 
 matter fmks into the earth. The word deaths in fa£t, never 
 enters into the philofophy of Confucius ; nor, indeed, on 
 common occafions is it employed by the Chinefe at the prefent 
 day. When a perfon departs this life, the common expreflion 
 is, be has returned to his family. And although the body re- 
 
 folves
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 457 
 
 folves itfelf in the courfe of time into its primitive elements, and 
 becomes a part of the univerfe ; yet, he contended, the fpirits 
 of fuch as had performed their duty in Ufe were permitted to 
 vifit their ancient habitations, or fuch places as might he ap- 
 pointed for receiving the homage of their defcendants, on 
 whom they had the power of conferring benefadlions. On this 
 ground it became the indifpenfable duty of every good man to 
 obferve a ftri£t obedience of the performance of facred rites in 
 the temple confecrated to the memory of anceftors. He main- 
 tained that all fuch as negleded this great branch of moral duty 
 would be punifhed for their negleit, after death, by their fplrit- 
 ual part being deprived of the privilege of vlfitlug the hall of 
 anceftors; and, confequently, of the pleafure arifinr^ from the 
 homage beftowed by their defcendants. Such a fyftem could 
 not fail to eftablifh a belief in good and evil genii, and of tute- 
 lar fpirits prefiding over families, towns, cities, houfes, moun- 
 tains, and other particular places. It afterwards required no 
 great ftretch of the imagination to give to thefe " airy nolhino-s 
 " a local habitation and a name." 
 
 It does not appear, however, that either Confucius or any 
 of his difciples attached the leaft idea of a perfonal being to the 
 deity; nor does it feem ever to have entered into their minds 
 to reprefent \\\& great Jirjl caiife under any image or perfonifica- 
 tion. They confidered the fun, moon, ftars and the elements, 
 with the azure firmament, as the creative and produdive powers, 
 the immediate agents of the Deity and infeparably connedied 
 with him, and they ofrered adoration to thefe agents, united in 
 one word 'T'len (Heaven). It cannot be fuppofed, after what 
 
 ,3 N ha.s
 
 458 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 has already been obfervcd in the fixth chapter, that I fhould 
 lay any ftrefs on the fimilarity of words in different languages, 
 or on the analogy of their fignihcation, in order to prove a com- 
 mon origin ; but if the conjedure of the learned Bos be right, 
 that Qfo? may be derived from Q£tl^ to move forward, in allu- 
 fion to the motion of the heavenly bodies which the ancient 
 Greeks, as well as the Perfians, worfhipped, tien certainly comes 
 very near the Greek both in found and fignification ; nearer it 
 could not come in found, as the Chinefe by no effort could pro- 
 nounce the th. The word tien not only fignifies heaven^ but 
 a revolution of the heavenly bodies, and is in common ufe both 
 in writing and converfation for day, as jr, ///, fan tien, one, two, 
 three days. 
 
 The Confucionifts, like the Stoics, feem to have confidered 
 the whole univerfe as one animaied fyftem, made up of one 
 material fubftance and one fpirit, of which every living thing- 
 was an emanation, and to which, when feparated by death from 
 the material part it had animated, every living thing again re- 
 turned. In a word, their conceptions of the Deity might be fum- 
 med up in thofe two beautiful and exprefTive lines of Pope, 
 
 " All are but parts of one ftupendous whole, 
 " Whofe body nature is, and God the foul." 
 
 But that which is mofl furprizing is, that the enthufiaftlc fol- 
 lowers of Confucius have never ereded any ftatue to his me- 
 mory, nor paid him divine honours as erroneoufly has been 
 fuppofed. In every city is a public building, a kind of college, 
 
 wherein
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 459 
 
 wherein examinations are held for degrees of office, and this 
 building is called the houfe of Confucius. Here, on certain 
 appointed days, the men of letters aflemble to pay refped; to 
 the memory of their efteemed philofopher. In the great hall 
 appropriated for this ceremony a plain tablet is erected, on 
 which is painted an infcription, in gilt charaders, to this effect : 
 " O Co7!g-foo-tfc, our revered mafter, let thy fpiritual part 
 " defcend and be pleafed with this our refpeft which we now 
 " humbly offer to thee !" Fruit and wine, flowers, perfumes 
 and other articles are then placed before the tablet, during 
 which are alfo burningvavious kinds of fcented gums, frankin- 
 cenfe, tapers of fandal wood and gilt paper. This ceremony, 
 which in every refpedl is the fame to that which he taught as 
 an obfervance towards the manesof departed relations, they are 
 perfuaded is agreeable to the invifible fpirits of thofe to whom 
 it is offered, who delight in hovering over the grateful odour of 
 flowers, of fruit, and the fmoke of incenfe. Thus, in like man- 
 ner, did the Romans on their birth-days offer flowers and 
 fruit and wine, and burn incenfe to invifible fpirits, whom 
 they called the genii^ 
 
 " Fundc- mcrum genio." 
 " I-""!!! a glafs to Genius." 
 
 But the priefls, who, in all ages and in moft nations, have 
 been crafty enough to turn to their own account the credulity 
 and fuperflitions of the people, having once eftablifhed as a 
 religious duty the offering of fweet-fmelling herbs and other 
 perfumes, found little difficulty in perfuading the multitude, 
 
 3 N 2 that
 
 ^6o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 that the tutelar fpirits could eat as well as fmell, and that facrifices 
 and raeat-ofFerings would be acceptable to the gods. The priefts 
 of China loft no time in introducing facrifices, even of living 
 creatures, and offerings of corn and rice and wine and pre- 
 cious metals upon their altars, not however to that extent 
 which was pradlifed in the temples of Greece and Rome, whofe 
 gods were the moft mercenary of all nations, being rarely in- 
 duced to grant a favour without a fee. Nor in modern days 
 have the monks and priefts of the Catholic faith been backward in 
 this refpedl particularly in fandioning the dodrine of compofttlon 
 for fins ^ for the abfolution of which the rate was not even fixed 
 in proportion to the magnitude ; and what is ftill more aftonlfh- 
 ing, this impious pradice of bargaining with the Almighty has 
 furvived the dark ages, and exifts to a certain degree at this 
 moment. 
 
 The moral and religious opinions of Confucius were, in fad, 
 too fublime and too metaphyfical to preferve their purity among 
 a people fo unprepared, as his countrymen were, to receive and 
 cherifh them. The attention of the multitude would feem, in- 
 deed, in all nations to require being fixed on fomething grofs 
 and material. How difficult was it for the prieft and the leader 
 of the Jews, to reftrain their people from pradices of idolatry. 
 In the (hort abfence even of Mofes on Mount Sinai, they made 
 for themfelves a molten calf of gold as an objed of divine w^or- 
 fliip, in imitation, probably, of what they had beheld in the 
 temples of Egypt. The invifible god made little impreffion 
 on their grofs and untutored underftandings. Nor was Numa 
 gaore fuccefsful than Mofes or Confucius, in his attempt to efta- 
 
 blifh
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 461 
 
 bllfh among the people the worfhlp of an ideal or mental ob- 
 jed of adoration. Thus alio it happened with the Chinefe. 
 The fublime conceptions of their great philofopher, too refined 
 indeed for untutored human nature, they could not compre- 
 hend. They required fome vifible objed on which they 
 might fix their attention. It was not enough merely to ima- 
 gine that the fpirits of men, who had done their duty in this 
 life, were permitted to haunt the places where their bodies were 
 interred, or where their furviving friends fhould aflemble to 
 do them honour: it was neceflary to give them a form and fub- 
 ftance. In the fame manner was the purity of the Chriftian re- 
 ligion contaminated by the multitude of images that were in- 
 vented in the monkiQi ages, when every city, town, and church, 
 and even individuals, provided they could pay for them, had 
 their particular patron, or tutelar faint. 
 
 Like the temples of Confucius, thofe of the ancient Egyp- ' 
 tians are fuppofed to have been entirely free from ftatues ; and 
 Plerodotus feems to be of opinion, that Hefiod and Homer 
 were the firfl: who introduced the genealogy of the gods among 
 the Greeks ; impofed names upon each, affigned their func- 
 tions and their honours, and clothed them in their feveral 
 forms. And we learn from Silius Italicus, that the ancient 
 temple of Hercules at Gades had no vifible type of the Deity. 
 
 " Sed nulla effigieSj fimulacrave nota deorum, 
 
 •* Majeftate locum, et facro impievere timore." 
 
 " No ftatues of the gods appear within, 
 
 " Nor images ; but rev'rend horror round, 
 
 " And gloom majeftic guard the facred ground." 
 
 Tytleh's MS. 
 
 TKe
 
 462 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 
 
 The miffionaries in their writings have endeavoured to imprefs 
 the world with an idea that the Chinefe, and particularly theCon- 
 fucionifts, are atheifts ; that they difbelieve in a fut\ue ftate of 
 exifiencc ; and that they are the vidims of a fenfelefs fuperfti- 
 tion. Nothing can be more unjuil than fuch an accufation. 
 Could Cautig-fcce\>& an atheift, when he iufcribed with his own 
 hands the Jefuit church in Pekin, 
 
 " To the only true principle of all things," &c. 
 
 And can a people be juftly accufed of a difbelief in a date of 
 future exiftence, when the whole nation, of what fed: foever, 
 prefents its offerings at ftated feafons to t\\t fpirits of its de- 
 parted anceftors ? Does the ejaculation, " Let thy fpiritual part 
 " defcend and be pleafed with this our [refped which we now 
 *' humbly offer to thee !" convey any fuch fuppofition ? And 
 of all others, the miffionaries ought to have been the laft to ac- 
 cufe the Chinefe of fenfelefs fuperftitions. Surely it is not 
 more repugnant to reafon, nor lefs confonant with human' feel- 
 ings, to offer grateful gifts to the manes of deceafed parents and 
 friends, than to fall down before the Virgin Mary and the 
 thoufand faints whom caprice or cabal have foifted into their 
 calendar, and of whofe hiftory and adions even their votaries are 
 totally ignorant? Chinefe fuperftition, in this refped is, to fay 
 the word of it, an amiable weaknefs. If the fuppofition be 
 allowed that beings who have departed this life may poffefs 
 an influence over remaining mortals, it is furely more natural 
 to addrefs thofe whofe care and kindnefs had already been felt, 
 than thofe of whom we have no further knowledge than the 
 name. There is perhaps no ftronger incentive to virtuous 
 
 adions.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 463 
 
 a^ftions, nor a more efFeilual check againft vicious purfuits, 
 than the idea that the departed fplrit of a beloved parent may- 
 continue to vvatcli over and dire£l our conduit. The Chinefe, at 
 all events, are not illiberal in their fuperftitions : they made not 
 the leaR difficulty in allowing the corpfe of one of our artifts, 
 who died at Tong-tchoo, though a Chriftian and confequently 
 in their opinion a heretic, to be depofited in the midft of their 
 public burying ground. "With as little reafon does on angry miC- 
 fionary complain of the drefles ana ceremonies of their priefts, 
 as they certainly borrowed nothing from the Catholics, who, 
 on their part, are much indebted to the heathen Greeks for a 
 great part of the paraphernalia of their own religion. " There 
 " is no country," lays he, " where the devil has fo fuccefs- 
 " fully counterfeited the true worfhip of the holy church. 
 " Thefe priefts of the infernal fpirit wear long loofe gowns, 
 *' exa£lly refembling thofe of fome of the fathers of the church ; 
 *' they live in temples like fo many monafteries, and they chaunt 
 " in the fame manner as with us." 
 
 Another religion, much better calculated to gain popularity, 
 fprung up about the time of, or very fhortly after, the death 
 of Confucius. A man of the name of Lao-Ktttig^ having tra- 
 velled into Thibet, became in part acquainted with the wor- 
 fhip of the priefts of Lama, which he thought would fuit his 
 countrymen, and might alfo be the means of raifmg his own re- 
 putation. He accordingly eftabliihed a fe£t, under the name of 
 Tao-tze, or " Sons of immortals." He maintained, like E[)i- 
 curus, that to live at his eafe and to make himfelf happy were 
 the chief concerns of man : that, to feize the prefent moment, 
 
 3 regard Icf's-
 
 ^64 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 re^ardlefs of the paft and of that to come, was the bufinefs 
 of life, 
 
 " Carpe diem, quam minimum credula poftero." 
 « Swift the fleeting pleafure feize. 
 
 " Nor trull to-morrow's doubtful light." 
 
 But as ills would come, and difeafe and death feemed to be the 
 common lot of man-kind, the beverage of immortal life was a 
 o-lorious idea to hold out to mortal man. In fad, Immortality- 
 was one of the attributes of the Delai Lama, who is fuppofed 
 never to die ; the foul of the reigning Lama pafling immediately 
 into the perfon of his fucceflbr. This dodrine, a branch of 
 the Metempfycofis, was converted by Lao- Kung into the art of 
 producing a renovation of the faculties in the fame body, by 
 the means of certain preparations taken from the three king- 
 doms of nature. The infatuated people flew with avidity to 
 the fountain of life. Princes even fought after the draughts 
 that fhould render them immortal, but which, in fa£t, brought 
 on premature death. Numerous inftances are faid to be on 
 record, wherein the eunuchs have prevailed on the fovereign 
 to fwallow the immortal liquor which feldom failed to difpatch 
 him. Father Trigauit, who was in Pekin when the Tartars 
 took pofleffion of it, fpeaking of the propenfity of the upper 
 clafles for the beverage of life, obferves, " Even in this city, 
 " there are few of the magiftrates or eunuchs or ochers in 
 " office free from this infanity ; and as there are plenty who 
 " wifh to learn the fecret, there is no want of profellors." This 
 feems to be the only fpecles of alchemy to which the Jefuits 
 have faid the Chinefe are addided. The preparation of the 
 
 liquor
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 465 
 
 liquor of life is their philofcphcr's (lone; and, in all proba- 
 bility, is compofcd of opium and other drugs which, by 
 encreafing the ftimulus, gives a momentary exhilaration to the 
 fpirits ; and the fucceeding languor requiring another and ano- 
 ther draught till at length, the excitability being entirely ex- 
 haufted, the patient " puts on immortality." 
 
 How much foever we may had ourlelves difpofcd to cenfure 
 the abfurdity of the Chinefe beverage of life, we are not a great 
 way behind them in this refped, or the Perkhifes, the Solomons^ 
 the Veltios^ and the Brodums^ with an innumerable hoft of quacks, 
 whofe indecent advertifements difgrace our daily prints, would 
 not derive their fubfiftence, much lefs rife to affluence, by the 
 credulity of Englifhmen ; for many ofthefe pefts of fociety are 
 foreigners, too contemptible in their own country to meet with 
 encouragement. What conclufion would a Chinefe be apt to 
 draw of our national chara<fler, if he had only a fmattering of 
 our language, juft fufficient to enable him to read thefe daily 
 efFufions that are forced upon public notice * ? And what muft 
 he think of the reveries of Condorcet, and of his Englifh dif- 
 ciples, whofe monflrous dodlrines (under the abufed name of 
 philofophy) would perfuade him that fleep was a difeafe ! That 
 
 " Sleep, that knits up the ravell'd fleave of care, 
 '• The death of each day's life, fore hibour's batli, 
 " Balm ot hurt minds, great nature's fecond courfc, 
 " Chief nourifner in life's feaft" 
 
 • And which, together with their pernicious pradices and infamous pamphlets, 
 addrefled chiefly to youth of both fexes, it may be added, have done more mifchief 
 than " plague, pedilence, or famine." Among the numerous focieties that have 
 been formed for the amendment of public morals and the fupprefllon of vice, it is 
 furprizing that no plan ha<; been thought of for the fupprcffion of impudent quacks. 
 
 3 o was
 
 4$6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 was a bodily iniirmity, which the perfe nihility of the hmnan 
 mind (fo happily commenced by the French fubverfion^ would 
 completely eradicate ! Let us not altogether condemn the igno- 
 rant, perhaps defigning, priefts of 'Tao-tfe, and the ftill more 
 ignorant multitude, when the ftrong and enlightened mind of a 
 De/cartes could amufe itfelf with the fanciful hope of being able 
 to difcover the fecret of prolonging the life of man far beyond 
 the ufual lim.its which feem to be afligned to the human fpecies. 
 
 Confiftent with the principle of " taking no thought for the 
 " morrow," the priefts of Lao-kung devoted themfelves to a 
 ftate of celibacy, as being more free from cares than the incum- 
 brances which neceffarily attend a family connexion ; and the 
 better to accomplifti this end, they afTociated in convents. 
 Here they deal out to their votaries the decrees of the oracle 
 agreeably to the rules prefcribed by Confucius ; and they prac- 
 tlfe alfo a number of incantations, magic, invocations of fpirits, 
 and other myftical rites that are probably as little underftood by 
 themfelves as by the gazing multitude. In performing thefe 
 magic tricks they march in proccffion round the altar, on which 
 the facred flame is fuppofed to be kept perpetually burn- 
 ing, being a compofition of wax and tallow mixed up 
 with fandal wood fhavings and other perfumes ; they chaunt 
 in unifon a kind of recitative, and they bow their heads obfe- 
 quioufly every time they pafs before the front of the altar. 
 The great Gong is ftruck at intervals, accompanied by tinkling 
 founds emitted by gently ftriking fmall metal plates fufpended in 
 a frame as in the plate of mufical inftruments. Their temples are 
 crowded with large and monftrous figures, fome made of 
 wood, fomc of ftone, and others of baked clay daubed over 
 
 I with
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 4S7 
 
 with paint and varnifh, and fometimes gilt. To fiich figures 
 howiver they do not feem to pay any kind of liomage. They 
 are intended merely to reprefent the good and evil genii under 
 the various paffions to which human nature is liable. The 
 good genii, or pleafing affections, are placed on one fide of the 
 temple, and their oppofitcs on the other. Thus the perfonifi- 
 cations of mirth and melancholy, love and hatred, pleafure 
 and pain, are contrafted together. The conditions of men are 
 alfo rcprefented, and their figures oppofed to one another. In 
 this light at leaft they appeared to us ; though the prieft at Toug- 
 tchoo informed us they were intended to pourtray the different 
 characters of the monks that had belonged to the monaftery. In 
 fome temples alfo ai-e met with the ftatues of fuch Emperors oi: 
 minifters of ftate as had fliewn themfelves favourable to any 
 particular convent. If, for inftance, a great man fhould occupy 
 the apartments of a temple and at his departure leave a co»fi- 
 derable fum of money, the priefts, out of gratitude, would 
 place his image in a niche of the temple. In looking into one 
 of thefe edifices a ftranger would be apt to conclude that they 
 were Polytheifts, which I do not underftand to be the cafe. 
 Like the faints of the Catholics the great jFo, of whom I Ihall 
 prefently fpeak, with Poo-fa^ Shing-moo, and many others, are 
 confidered only in the light of agents and interceffors, or as 
 emanations of one creating, deftroying, and renovating power, 
 whofe good providence has divided itfelf into a number of 
 
 attributes for the better government of the univerfe *. 
 
 Next 
 
 • Thus among the infcriptions written Over the doors of Temples, fome are dedi- 
 cated 
 
 To the Holy Mother, ^een of Heaven ; the Goddefs of peace and fonuer, dt/a«ded from 
 the tjland of Moui-tao, tmho fills the ivaves ofthefea, allays forms, proteiit the empire. 
 
 302 Another
 
 468 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Next to this religion of the immortals, was introduced ano- 
 ther of nearly the fame growth which, from being patronized 
 by the court, foon became no lefs popular than the former. 
 The priefts of Fo, coming by invitation from India, imported 
 with them a great portion of the Hindu mythology, which 
 fome learned men have fuppofed to be the origin from whence 
 the Polytheifm of Egypt and Greece had its fource ; and others 
 the dired: contrary. Be that as it may, the affinity feems to 
 be too ftrong not to afcribe them to a common parent ; and 
 the reprefentations and the hiftories of many of the gods of 
 thefe nations were imported, in all probability, with the reli- 
 gion of jFo, from India into China. This will better appear by 
 comparing a few as they are obferved in the different nations. 
 
 The Btidha of the Hindus was the fon of Ma ya^ and one 
 of his epithets is Aniita : the Fo of China was the fon of Mo-ya^ 
 and one of his epithets is Om-e-to ; and, in Japan, whofe natives 
 arc of Chinefe origin, the fame god Fo is worfliipped under the 
 name of Amida. I could neither colle(3: from any of the 
 Chinefe what the literal meaning was of Om-e-to^ nor could I 
 decypher the characters under which it is written, but it appeared 
 to be ufed as a common ejaculation on moft occafions, juft as 
 we Europeans are too apt to make a familiar and impious ufe of 
 the name of God. Perhaps it might not feem inconfiftent in 
 confidering it to be derived from the Hindu myftic word Om. 
 
 Another has 
 
 The OHcient temple of the goddejs (Kin-'wha) of the golJenfo'wer, through luho/e Infiuer.ce 
 ftlds are green and fertile like a grove of trees ; and benefits *re dijfu/ed as the frothy ixave 
 jtftbtfeat that JhtTus like fplendid pearls. 
 
 Since
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 469 
 
 Since the acceffion of the Tartar princes to the throne of China, 
 the court religion, or at leaft the Tartar part of the court, which 
 before adhered to the tenets of Confucius, has been that of 
 Fo or Budha. The priefts are numerous, moftly dreffed in 
 yellow gowns, live in a ftate of celibacy in large convents 
 or temples, which the Chinefe call Poo-ta-la, evidently de- 
 rived from Budha-laya^ or habitation of Budha, this name be- 
 ing adopted by the Tartars, which the Chinefe have been un- 
 der the neceffity of following as nearly as their organs of fpeech 
 v/ould admit. They wear a fort of chapelet round their necks, 
 confifting of a number of beads. In fome of their ceremonies 
 they march, like the Tao-tfes, in proceflion round the altar, count- 
 ing their beads, repeating at every bead Om-e-to-fo, and re- 
 fpedfully bowing the head. The whole firing being finifhed, 
 they chalk up a mark, regiftering in this manner the pumber of 
 their ejaculations to Fo. This counting of their beads was one 
 of the ceremonies that very much exafperated the miflionaries. 
 
 The Ganefa of the Hindus, the yafius of the Romans, and 
 the Men-Jhin, or guardian fpirit of the door of the Chinefe, are 
 obvioufly one and the fame deity. Sometimes he is painted 
 with a club in one hand, and a key in the other, reprefenting 
 the prote£tor of the houfe. On almoft every door in China, 
 where the inhabitants profefs the religion of Fo, is drawn the 
 figure of Men-Jhln, or otherwile the two characters of this 
 word, agreeing exactly with what Sir William Jones has ob- 
 ferved of the new town of Gaya in Hindoftan, " that every 
 " new built houfe, agreeably to an immemorial ufage of the 
 " .Hindus, has the name oi Ganefa fuperfcribed on its door : and
 
 470 TRAVELS INCHINA. 
 
 " In the old town his image is placed over the gates of the 
 " temples." 
 
 The ViJhfiH of the Hhidus, riding on an eagle, and fome- 
 fometimes attended by an eagle, has been confidered as the yu- 
 piter oi xht Greeks; and the Ln'i-JJAn of the Chinefe, or fpirit 
 of thunder, is figured under a man with the beak and talons of 
 an eagle, fometimes furrounded with kettle drums, carrying in 
 one hand a batoon and in the other a flame of fire. The Ofwis 
 •of the Egyptians, from whence the Greeks had their yiipiter^ 
 comes ftill nearer to the Lui-Jloin of the Chinefe. When repre- 
 fented as the emblem of the fun, he was drawn under the figure 
 of a man with an eagle's beak, carrying in his hand a batoon 
 on which was painted an eye. The ingenious and fertile ima- 
 gination of the Greeks feparated the emblem from the god, and 
 made the bird of prey the attendant of the divinity, which the 
 Egyptians and the Chinefe united under one fymbol. It is a 
 curious coincidence of opinion, if it be not founded on fa£t, 
 that the Chinefe fhould aflign the fame reafon for giving aa 
 eagle's face to their Lui-Jlj'tn^ that Pliny has for the confecra- 
 tion of that bird to yupiter, namely, that no inftance was ever 
 known of an eagle being deftroyed by lightning. The Chinefe 
 have alfo an obfervation with regard to this bird, which has 
 ■been made by other nations, and which is, that the eagle, in a 
 thunder ftorm, always mounts above the clouds. 
 
 The Varuna of the Hindus, riding on a fifli, the Neptune 
 of the Greeks, and the Chinefe Hai-vang, or king of the fea, 
 
 repofing
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 474 
 
 repofing on the waves, with, a fi(h in his hand, are unqueftion- 
 ably one and the fame perfonage. 
 
 The giant Brlareus^ with his hundred hands, is truly in 
 China of a moft ftupendous and coloffal ftature, being com- 
 monly from fifty to fixty feet in height, and fometimes as tall 
 as eighty feet. But the largeft of all their deities is a woman 
 of the family of Poo-fa *, apparently a perfonification of nature. 
 This goddefs is modelled in a variety of ways ; fometimes fhe 
 is to be found with four heads, and forty or fifty arms, the 
 heads looking towards the four cardinal points of the compafs, 
 and each arm holding fome natural product of the earth fub- 
 fervient to the ufe of man. Sometimes each arm produces fe- 
 veral fmaller arms, and on the head {lands a pyramidal groupe 
 of fmaller heads. Van Braam mentions his having feen a 
 ftatue of this goddefs that was ninety feet high, having four 
 heads and forty-four arms. It is no uncommon thing to meet 
 with temples in ruins, in the midft of which thefe monftrous 
 gods and goddelTes are feen entire, expofed to the elements. It 
 feems the inferior temples are generally upheld by the volun- 
 tary gifts of the people; and that, whenever any unufual cala- 
 mity befals a town or village, fuch as fevere famine, epidemic 
 difeafe, inundations, or the like, whofe dire effedls ceafe not 
 
 * Poo /a comprehends a clafs of fuperhnending deities inferior to thofe of /o, 
 who are confulted on trivial occafions, and the ordinary affairs of life- Of courfe 
 the greater number of temples are called by the general name of Poo-fa mlau, temple 
 of Poo-fa. The name implies all-helping. The charafter poo fignifies fupport, andyi 
 has the charafler o{ plant for its root or key united to that of prefervalion ; the plant- 
 •'preferving, or plartt-fupporling deitj ; from, v/hince it may perhaps be concluded, that 
 poo-fa is theoffspring of the Holy Metier of whom I am about to fpeak. 
 
 on
 
 47^ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 en repeated applications to the proteding faint, by way of 
 puniniiiig the gods, they literally pull down the temple over 
 tlieir heads, and leave them fitting in the open air. This grotefque 
 and barbarous manner of reprefenting the manifold powers of 
 nature, or the goddefs of nature, by a plurality of heads and 
 hands in one idol, is by no means favourable to the fuppofitioa 
 of a refined or fuperior underftanding in the people who adopt 
 them into their religious worfliip. It can be confidered only as 
 a very fhort ftep beyond the conceptions of favages, who have 
 no other idea than that of fupplying by number, or a repetition 
 of the fame thing, what may be wanting in povs'^er. The fame 
 figure, with numerous arms, appears in the Hindu temples 
 that are excavated out of folid granite mountains, the.moft an- 
 cient and among the mod wonderful monuments of art and 
 perfevering labour that have hitherto been difcovered on the 
 face of the globe, the fountain perhaps from whence the arts, 
 the fciences, and the religious myfteries of the Egyptians and 
 the Greeks derived their origin. 
 
 But the mod common of all the female deities in China 
 is the Shing-mooy or holy mother, or rather the mother of 
 ferfe6l intcll'igejice *. This lady is the exadl counterpart of the 
 Indian Ganga or goddefs of the river, the Ifis of the Egyptians, 
 and the Ca-es of the Greeks. Nothing (hocked the miflionaries fo 
 much on their firft arrival in China as the image of this lady, 
 in whom they difcovered, or thought they difcovered, the moft 
 ftriking refemblance to the Virgin Mary. They found her ge- 
 
 * The chara<fter_/6//jf Is compounded of ear, mouth, and ruler or king, intending per- 
 haps to eiprefs the faculty of knowing all that ear has heard and mouth uttered. 
 
 neraily
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 473 
 
 nerally fhut up with great care in a recefs at the back part of 
 the altar, and veiled with a filken fcreen to hide her from 
 common obfervation ; fometimes with a child in her hand, at 
 other times on her knee, and a glory round her head. On 
 hearing the ftory of the Sbiiig-rnoo they were confirmed in this 
 opinion. They were told that fhe conceived and bore a fon 
 while yet a virgin, by eating the flower of the Lien-wha (the 
 Nelumbiutn) which fhe found lying upon her clothes on the 
 bank of a river where Ihe was bathing : that, when the time 
 of her geftation was expired, ihe went to the place where (he 
 had picked up the flower and was there delivered of a boy ; 
 that the infant was found and educated by a poor fiflierman ; and, 
 in procefs of time, became a great man and performed mi- 
 racles. Such is her fl;ory, as told by the Chinefe priefls. When 
 the image of this goddefs is ftanding, fhe generally holds a 
 flower of the Nelumbium in her hand ; and when fitting, fhe is 
 ufually placed upon the large peltate leaf of the fame plant. 
 
 The Egyptian Lotos, not that efculent plant from the ufe 
 of which the Lotophagi had their name, but another of a very 
 different genus confecrated to religious purpofes, is faid* to 
 have been afcertained from a flatue of Ofirh^ preferved in the 
 Barberini palace at Rome, to be that fpecies of water lilly which 
 grows in abundance in mofl: parts of the eaftern world, and 
 which was known to botanifts under the name oi Nymph a a Nem 
 lu7nbo ; but I underfland it is now confidered as a new genus, diflin- 
 guifhed, under a modification of its former fpecific name, by that 
 
 * By Mr. Pamv. 
 
 3P of
 
 474 ■ TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 oi Nelmnb'iuin. This plant, however, is no longer to be found in 
 Egypt. The two fpecies that grow, at prefent, on the banks 
 and canals of the Nile are totally different, which furnifhes a 
 very ftrongprefumption that, although a facred plant and cul- 
 tivated in the country, it might neverthelefs be of foreign 
 growth. In China, few temples are without fome reprcfenta- 
 tion of the Nelumbium ; fometimes the Shbig-moo is painted as 
 {landing upon its leaves in the midft of a lake. In one temple 
 1 obferved the intelligent mother fitting upon the broad pel- 
 tate leaf of this plant, which had been hewn out of the living 
 rock. Sometimes flie holds in her hand a cornucopia filled with 
 the ears of rice, of millet, and of the capfule or feed-veffel of 
 the Nelumbium, thefe being articles of food which fall to the 
 {hare of the pooreft peafant. This very beautiful water lilly 
 grows fpontaneoufly in almoft every lake and morafs, from the 
 middle of Tartary to the province of Canton ; a curious circum- 
 ftance, when we confider the very great difficulty with which it 
 can be preferved, even by artificial means, in climates of Europe, 
 whofe temperature are lefs warm and lefs cold than many of 
 thofe where, in China, it grows in a {late of nature, and with 
 the greate{l degree of luxuriance. On the heights of Tartary 
 it is found in an uncultivated {late where, in winter, the ther- 
 mometer frequently ftands at, and generally far below, the freez- 
 ing point. But here the roots ftrike at the bottom of A'cry deep 
 waters only, a circumftance from which we may perhaps con- 
 clude, that the plant may rather require uniformity of tempera- 
 ture, than any extraordinary degree either one way or other. 
 Not only the feed of the Nelumbium, which is a kind of nut 
 nearly as large as an acorn, but the long roots, jointed like 
 
 I canes,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 4^5 
 
 canes, furnifli articles of food for the table. In the capital, dur- 
 ing the whole fummer feafon, the latter are fliced and laid on 
 ice, and in this ftate ferve as part of the defert ; the tafte differs 
 very little from that of a good juicy turnip, with a flight degree 
 of aflringency. 
 
 There is fomcthlng fo very ftriking and remarkable in this 
 plant, that it is not furprizing the Egyptians and the Indians, 
 fond of drawing allufions from natural objects, fliould have 
 confidered it as emblematic of creative power. The leaves of 
 the fucceeding plant are found involved in the middle of the 
 feed, perfe(3:, and of a beautiful green. When the fun goes 
 down, the large leaves that fpread themfelves over the furface 
 of the water clofe like an umbrella, and the returning fun gra- 
 dually unfolds them. Now, as thefe nations confidered water 
 to be the primary element, and the firft medium on which crea- 
 tive influence began to adt, a plant of fuch fingularity, luxuri- 
 ance, utility and beauty, could not fail to be regarded by them 
 as a proper fymbol for reprefenting that creative power, and 
 was accordingly confecrated by the former to Ofiris and to Ifn^ 
 the emblems of the fun and moon, and by the latter to Ganga^ 
 the river goddefs, and to the fun. The coincidence of ideas be- 
 tween thofe two nations, in this refpedt, may be drawn from 
 that beautiful HindCi hymn, addrefl'ed to Surya or the fun, and 
 tranflated by Sir William Jones — 
 
 " Lord of die Lotos, father, friend and king, 
 " O Sun ! thy powers I fing." — &c,* 
 
 Whether 
 
 * Captain Turner found the name of the Lotos infcribed over moft of the temples 
 in Bootan and Thibet ; and Colonel Symcs, in the account of his embafly- to the 
 
 3 p i kingdom
 
 476 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Whether the Chinefe, like the Hindus, entertained the fame 
 notions of creative power, or its influence upon water as the 
 primary element, I could not learn. No information as to the 
 ground-work of their religion is to be looked for from the 
 priefts of the prefent day, who are generally very ignorant ; but 
 I fufped the dedication of the Lotos to facrcd ufes to be much 
 older than the introdudlon of Hindu mythology by the priefts 
 of Budha. They even afcribe the fable of eating the flower to 
 the mother of their firft Emperor Foo-Jloee ; and the Lotos and 
 the lady are equally refpeded by all the feds in China ; and 
 even by the Mantchoo Tartars, whole hiftory commences with 
 the identical ftory of a young virgin conceiving and bearing a 
 fon, who was to be the progenitor of a race of conquerors, by 
 eating the flower of a water lilly. If, indeed, any dependence 
 is to be placed on the following well known infcription found 
 on an ancient monument of Ofiris, Egyptian rites may be fup- 
 pofed to have made their way into the eaft and probably into 
 China, or, on the other hand, thofe of the eaft adopted by the 
 Egyptians, at a period of very remote antiquity. " Saturn, the 
 *' youngeft of all the gods, was my father. I am Ofiris, who 
 *' conduded a large and numerous army as far as the deferts of 
 " India, and travelled over the greateft part of the world, 
 *• &c. &c." 
 
 It may not, perhaps, be thought improbable (I offer it, how- 
 ever, merely as conjedure) that the ftory of Ofiris and Ifis 
 
 kingdom of Ava, which with Pegu, Aracan, and Laos, now conftitute the Birman 
 empire, defcribes the people as BudhiRs or of the feifl of Fo ; indeed their cuftoms 
 and appearance, as well as their religion, feem to indicate a Chinefe or Tartar 
 origin. 
 
 was
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 477 
 
 was known in China at a very early period of the hiftory of 
 this country. Ofirh^ king of Egypt, and hufband of IJts^ waS 
 worfhipped under the form of an ox, from his having paid par- 
 ticular attention to the purfuits of agriculture, and from em^- 
 ploying this animal in the tillage of the ground. 
 
 " Primus aratra manu folerti fecit Ofiris-" 
 
 Ofiris firft con[lru(5led ploughs with dext'rous fl.ili. 
 
 Hiftorians fay, that Ifis^ on the murder of her hufband, en- 
 joined the priefts of Egypt, by a folemn oath, to eftablifh a- 
 form of worfhip in which divine honours fhould be paid to 
 their deceafed prince ; that they fhould fele£l: what kind of ani- 
 mal they pleafed to reprefent the perfon and the divinity of 
 Ofiris, and that they fhould inter it with folemn funeral honours 
 when dead. In confideration of this apotheofis, fhe allotted a 
 portion of land to each facerdotal body. The priefts were 
 obliged to make a vow of chaftity ; their heads were fhaven 
 and they went barefooted. Divine honours were llkewife con- 
 ferred on Ifis after her death, and fhe was worfhipped under 
 the form of a cow. 
 
 Now, although the feflival In China, at which the Emperor 
 holds the plough in the commencement of the fpring, be c vu- 
 fidered at this day as nothing more than a political inilitution, 
 and continued as an example to the lower orders of people, an 
 incitement for them to purfue the labours of agriculture as the 
 moft important employment in the ftate ; — yet, as this conde- ' 
 fcenfion of the fovereign militates fo ftrongly againft all their 
 maxims of government, which place an immenfe diftance be- 
 tween
 
 487 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 tween him and the firfl: of his people, it may not, perhaps, be 
 much amifs in fuppofing it to have originated in fome religious 
 opinion. Indeed he ftill continues to prepare himfelf for the 
 folemn occafion, by devoting three days entirely to pious cere- 
 monies and rigid devotion. On the day appointed by the tri- 
 bunal of mathematics, a cow is facrificed in the T'ee-tauy or 
 or temple dedicated to the earth ; and on the fame day, in fome 
 of the provinces, the figure of a cow of baked clay, of an im- 
 menfe fize, is carried in proceflion by a number of the peafan- 
 try, followed by the principal officers of government and the 
 other inhabitants. The horns and the hoofs are gilded and or- 
 namented with filken ribbons. The proftrations being made 
 and the offerings placed on the altar, the earthen cow is broken 
 in pieces and diftributed among the people. In like manner 
 the body of Oftris, worfhipped afterwards under the form of 
 an ox, was diftributed by Ifis among the priefts ; and the Ifta * 
 were long celebi-ated in Egypt in the fame manner as the fefti- 
 val of holding the plough is at this day obferved in China, 
 both being intended, no doubt, to commemorate the perfons 
 
 * No feRivals, pevhnps, were fo univcrlully adopted and fo far extended, as tliofc 
 in honour of IJis- They not only found their way into every part of the Eaft, but 
 from Greece they were alfo received by the Romans, and from thefe they paffed iii- 
 to Gaul. It has even been conjectured, that the m.odern name of Paris has its deri- 
 vation from a temple that was dedicated to this goddefs, wapa i^-w, not very diftant 
 from this ancient capital of Gaul. The city arms are a (hip, which Ifu was depifted 
 to hold in her hand, as the patronefs of navigation. In faft, a ftatue of Ifis f is faid 
 :o have been preferved with great care in the church of Saint Germain until the be- 
 ginning of the fiiteenth century, when the zeal of a bigotted cardinal caufed it to 
 be demolifiied as an unfanftified relick of pagan fupcrftition. 
 
 f Encyclopedic des ConnoiiTances Humaine*. 
 
 who
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 479 
 
 ■who had rendered the moft folid advantages to the (late, by the 
 encouragement they had held out for the cultivation of the 
 ground. 
 
 The difputes, quarrels, perfecutions and maflacres, that have 
 happened at various times among the different feds of Chrifti- 
 anity in Europe, have not been much lefs violent, nor produc- 
 tive of lefs dreadful confequences, between the fe£t of immor- 
 tals and that of Fo, in China, whenever the court, or rather the 
 intriguing eunuchs, feemed to favour the opinions of one fe£l in 
 preference to thofe of the other. Perfecutions never failed to 
 begin whenever either party was fortunate enough to gain over 
 to its fide the chief of the eunuchs, who had always fufficient 
 influence with the reigning monarch to prevail upon him to 
 efpoufe the fame caufe. They were, however, wars of priefts 
 alone in which the people remained neutral, or took no active 
 part. Whole monafteries have been levelled with the ground, 
 and thoufands of priefts put to death on both fides. Since, 
 however, the acceflion of the prefent Tartar dynafty, they have 
 met with no particular marks of favour or diftindion ; and, on 
 that account, are apparently reconciled to each other ; indeed, 
 they are fcarcely diftinguifhable either by their temples or by 
 their drefs. The predidlion of future events being beft fuited 
 to the minds of the multitude, and moft fought after, the oracle 
 of fate may be confulted in any temple, whether of Fo or of 
 Tao-tze. The government interferes not in religious opinions, 
 and it gives no fupport to any particular fed, except that of the 
 Lama, whofe priefts are paid and maintained as a part of the 
 
 Imperial
 
 48o TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Imperial eilablifhment. The Tartar officers of ftate are likewife 
 attached to the faith of the Lama, without the abfurdities that 
 liave been mixed with it by the immortals. 
 
 However ftrlftly the women may be kept at home by the 
 cuftortis of the country, they are neverthelefs permitted, on 
 certain occafions, to confult their deftiny at the altar, without 
 being expofed to the cenfure of vulgarity or impropriety. Bar- 
 ren wives are even encouraged to vifit the temples, not fo 
 much for the purpofe of knowing their deftiny, as under a 
 tirni belief that, by rubbing the bellies of certain little copper 
 rods, they fhall conceive and bear children. But, the women 
 in general who, from habit, feel little inclination to ftir 
 abroad, except on very preffing occafions, encourage a fet of 
 fortune-tellers, mountebanks and jugglers, who thus pick up a 
 livelihood by travelling the country and telling fortunes from 
 houfe to houfe. They are known by a wretched fqualling 
 flute on which they play, and are beckoned to call where their 
 art is required. By being made acquainted with the day and 
 hour of a perfon's birth, they pretend to cajl his nativity, which 
 is called Swafi-ming, or the art of difcovering events by means 
 of numbers. A Chinefe, even in the higher ranks, has no great 
 idea of a man's learning, if he be ignorant of the S'wa7i-ming. I 
 was very frequently applied to at Vuen-min-yiien, by perfons in 
 office, to know if I could tell them their fortune ; and it was 
 difficult to perfuade them I had any knowledge of the aftrono- 
 mical inftruments intended for the Emperor, after profeffing 
 my ignorance in cajiing a nativity. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA, 481 
 
 The prlefts of both feds are fuppofed to be no lefs attentive 
 in keeping up a perpetual fire burning upon the altars than the 
 Roman Veftals were in this refpeit ; but no expiation nor pu- 
 nilhment being confidered neceflary, as in the latter cafe, they 
 cannot boaft that " flames unextlnguifli'd on the!.- altars 
 " fhine." They are, in fa£l, frequently extinguifhed by care- 
 lelTnefs or accident. No virgins attend this holy flame, but the 
 charge of it is committed generally to young boys under train- 
 ing for the priefthood. Like the Greeks and the Romans, the 
 Chinefe have alfo their penates or houfehold gods, which are 
 not reprefented under any particular perfonification, but gene- 
 rally by a tablet bearing a fhort infcription and a taper burn- 
 ing before it. Every fhip, however fmall, has its tablet and 
 its taper ; and within the compafs-box or binnacle a taper is 
 continually kept burning. 
 
 In every city, town and village, fometimes in the midft of 
 woods, in the mountains and moft lonely places, are fmall 
 temples, the doors of which are continually left open for the' 
 admittance of fuch as may be defirous of confulting their de- 
 ftiny. The pradical part of Chinefe religion may, in fadt, be 
 faid to confift in predeftinatiori. A priefl: is not at all neceflary 
 for unravelling the book of fate. If any one be about to un- 
 dertake a journey, or to purchafe a wife, or to build a houfe, 
 or, above all, to bury a deceafed relation, and any doubt fhould 
 arife in his mind as to the fortunate refult of fuch undertaking, 
 he repairs to the neareft temple ; and, if he fhould not be able to 
 read himlcif, he takes a friend by the hand who can. On the 
 altar of every temple is placed a wooden cup, filled with a 
 
 3 Q_ number
 
 4ba TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 number of fniall flicks, marked at the extremities with certain 
 charaders. Taking the cup in his hands he fhakes it till one 
 of the fticks falls upon the ground and, having examined the cha- 
 ra£ler upon it, he looks for the correfponding mark in a book 
 which is generally appended to the wall of the temple. The 
 lot, in this manner, is call feveral times, and if one lucky ftick 
 in three fhould happen to turn up, he is willing to confider 
 the omen as favourable ; and, if the event fhould anfwer the ex- 
 pedation he has been led to form from the book of fate, he 
 confiders it as a duty to return to the temple and to hurn »■ 
 fheet or two of painted paper, or of paper covered with tin foil, 
 and to depofit a few pieces of copper money on the altar, in- 
 token of gratitude for the favour he has received *. In this 
 
 • The prefent Emperor fhewed his gratitude for his prayers having been heard,- 
 by granting in a public cdifl an additional title to the temple in which they were 
 offered. 
 
 Imperial Edict. 
 
 " The gracious pratelltng temple of the ling of the dragons, on the mountain of Yu-chun, 
 " has on every occafion of drought proved favourable to our prayers offered up there 
 " for rain, as duly obferved on our facred regiflers. From the fummer folftice of 
 " the prefent year, a great want of rain has been experienced, on which account we 
 " were induced, on the 17th of this moon, to offer up our prayers and facrifices in 
 " perfon at the faid temple. During the very fame day, a fall of fmall rain or dew 
 " was obferved, and, on the day following, the country was relieved by frequent 
 " and copious fhowers. This further proof of efficacy in granting our reqiiefts, aug- 
 *' ments our veneration and, in teftimony whereof, we dired that the temple of the 
 " propitious divinity fhall receive an additional title, and be ftyled on all future oc- 
 •• cafions, 
 
 ♦' The gracious in prote&ing, and efficacious in prefervingf the temple of the iing of the 
 
 " dragons. 
 
 " Be our •will obeyed" 
 
 Pekin Ga%elte, Z^d day of ^th Moon, of ()th year of Kia-K'mg, 
 
 manner
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 483 
 
 manner is confumed the greateft part of the tin that is carried 
 to China by the trading companies of Europe. I have already 
 obferved that they have no communion of worfhip to offer 
 up, in a public manner, their prayers or thankfgivings. 
 
 Formerly it was the cuftom to bury flaves with emperors and 
 princes and fometimcs alfo their concubines alive ; but this cruel 
 pradllce has given way, in modern times, to the more harmlefs 
 one of burning reprefentations of their domeftics in tin foil, 
 cut into the (hape of human beings, and of placing their ftatues 
 in wood or ftone upon their graves ; this feems to be the 
 remains of a Scythian or Tartar cuftom, which, according to 
 Herodotus, was commonly obferved at the funerals of their 
 fovereigns, when their horfes, their flaves, and their concu- 
 bines were impaled alive and placed in order round the tyrant's 
 tomb. The laft remains of a relation are interred with all the 
 honours that the family can afford. I never pafled between 
 the capital and Yuen-min-yucn without obferving numbers of 
 funeral proceffions. Thofe of great officers of flate would 
 fometimes extend for nearly half a mile. The train was ufually 
 arranged in the following order. In front marched a prieft un- 
 covered, next a group of muficians with flutes, trumpets, and 
 cymbals ; after thefe the male relations of the deceafed in long 
 white frocks and behind them the chief mourner, fupported by 
 two friends, whofe exertions to prevent him from tearing his 
 cheeks and hair appeared to be truly ridiculous. Then fol- 
 lowed the coffin, covered by a magnificent canopy and borne 
 generally by four men, fometimes by eight. After the canopy 
 the female relations proceeded in chairs, or more generally in the 
 
 3 CL 2 little
 
 4H TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 little covered carts, wearing white frocks like the men, their 
 hair dilhevelled, and broad white fillets hound acrofs their fore- 
 heads. On approaching a bridge or a temple the proceffion 
 always halted while the prieft burned little images of tin foil, 
 or let off a few crackers, upon which the noily gong and the 
 reft of the band made a flourifh. 
 
 The famous feaft of lanterns, when the whole empire is 
 lighted up from one extremity to the other, in every poffible 
 way that fancy can fuggeft, is an ancient religious ufage of 
 which, at the prefent day, they can give no plaufible account. 
 It is juft pofhble that, among other Egyptian ceremonies, this 
 may be one derived from a common origin with an annual 
 illumination of the fame kind mentioned by Herodotus ; which 
 was generally obferved, from the catarafts of the Nile to the 
 borders of the Mediterranean, by hanging lamps of different 
 kinds to the fides of the houfes. On this day the Chinefe not 
 only illuminate their houfes, but they alio exercife their inge- 
 nuity in making tranfparencics in the fliape of different animals, 
 with which they run through the ftreets by night. The effect 
 when perfectly dark is whimfical enough. Birds, beafts, fillies, 
 and other animals are feen darting through the air, and con- 
 tending with each other ; fome with fquibs in their mouths, 
 breathing fire, and others with crackers in their tails : fome 
 fending out fky rockets, others rifing into pyramids of party- 
 coloured fire, and others burfting like a mine with violent ex- 
 plofions. But the moft ingenious are thole that, Proteus-like,, 
 change their fhape from time to time, and under every form 
 exhibit a different difplay of fire-works. 
 
 I have
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 485 
 
 I have obferved, at the beginnuig of this chapter, that the 
 temples are occafionally appropriated to the ufe of ftate-officers, 
 embaiTadors and other public charaders, when travelling 
 through the country, there being no other houfes affording 
 accomodations equally fuitable. On quitting the temple it is 
 generally thought neceffary to perform an ad of reverence bor- 
 dering on devotion, not however to the Deity, but to the name 
 of the Emperor infcribed on the altar. This cuftom, together 
 with that of depofiting rice and other grain, tea and oil at 
 certain feafons, efpecially on the day of his nativity, although 
 perhaps, in the firft inftance, a token only of refped and gra- 
 titude, and in the other an acknowledgment of his being the 
 fole proprietary of the foil, are neverthelefs ads that tend, from 
 the fandity of the place v.'here they are performed, to the en- 
 couragement of idolatry. By thus affociating the offerings 
 made to the Deity and to the Monarch, the vulgar become apt 
 to magnify the power of the latter and to raife it on a level 
 with that of the former, A Chinefe in fpeaking of a propitious 
 event occurring, either in his own or any other country, gene- 
 rally attributes it to the joint Will of Heaven and the Emperor 
 of China. 
 
 The converfion of the temples into lodglng-houfes is attended 
 with fome temporal advantages to the priefts, by the donations 
 that are generally made on fuch occafions. Moft of them 
 being fupported entirely by voluntary contributions and trifling 
 legacies that may be left by pious perfons, they are thankful 
 for the fmalleft gifts : for as there is little or no connediou 
 between the church and the ftate, they derive no pay, nor 
 
 3 emolument.
 
 486 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 emolument, nor preferment from the latter. The Emperor 
 pays his own priefts, which are thofe of all his Tartar fub- 
 je<n:s ; the Chinefe Confucionifts, or men of learning, and the 
 ftate officers contribute to the maintenance of theirs, whether 
 ofi^o or Tao-tze^ and the mafs of the people, from the prevailing 
 propenfity of enquiring into futurity, afford the means of fup- 
 port to many thoufands, I might perhaps fay millions of 
 priefls, by the offerings carried to the altars whenever they find 
 it neceffary to confult the book of fate, which is done on mofl of 
 the common occurrences in life. 
 
 From the fhort view I have here taken of the different feds, 
 I think it may juftly be concluded that the primitive religion 
 of China no longer exifts, or exifts only in a corrupted ftate ; 
 that there is at prefent no national nor fcarcely a ftate reli-. 
 gion : and that the articles of faith are as various- as the modes of 
 worfhip ; in all of which the people appear to be rather aduated 
 by the dread of evil in this life, than by the fear of punifh- 
 ment in another : that the duties they perform are more with 
 a view to appeafe an angry deity and to avert impending ca- 
 lamities, than from any hope of obtaining a pofitive good : that 
 they rather confult or enquire of their gods what may happen, 
 than petition them to accompliih or avert it ; for a Chinefe 
 can fcarcely be faid to pray ; he is grateful when the event 
 proves favourable to his wiflies ; petulant and peevifh with his 
 gods when adverfe. 
 
 Little as the priefts, or the numerous noviciates that are 
 found in all the principal temples, are employed in the duties 
 
 of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 487 
 
 of their ofEce, or In worldly concerns, they are not lefs unclean- 
 ly in their perfons and their apartments than thofe are whofe 
 time is taken up in providing for the necefllties of life. The 
 room, in which fome of us Jbou/d have flept, was fo full of fcor- 
 pions and fcolopendras, and they crept in fuch numbers into 
 our beds, that we were fairly driven out and obliged to fwing 
 our cots in the open air between two trees. Here we were not 
 much lefs annoyed by myriads of mufquitoes and the unceaf- 
 ing noife of the chirping cicadas, which continued without in- 
 termiflion until the ftill more noiCy gong announced the break 
 of day, and fummoned the holy men to their morning de- 
 votions^
 
 488 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 Journey from Tong-choo-foo to the Province of Canton. — 
 Face of the Country, and its Produdions. — Buildings and 
 other Public Works. — Condition of the People. — State of 
 Agriculture. — Population. 
 
 Attentions paid to the EmbaJJy. — Obfervatiom on the Climate and Plains o/"Pe-tche- 
 
 lee. Plants of. — Diet and Condition of the People. — Buryng-place. — Ohferva- 
 
 tion on Chinefe Cities- — Trackers of the Tachts. — Entrance of the Grand Canal.— 
 The FifhingCorvorant . — Approach to the Yellow-River. — Ceremony of crojfng this 
 ^iwr. — Obfervations on Canals and Roads. — Improvement of the Country in ad- 
 vancing to the Southward. — Beauty of, near Sau-choo-foo — Bridge of ninety-one 
 Arches. — Country near Hang-choo-foo. — City of. — Appearance of the Country near 
 iheVo-ynngLale. — Obfervations in Proceeding throughKX-ing-ke. — The CumtWii 
 Sefanqua. — RetrofpeElive View of the Climate and Produce, Diet and Condition of 
 the People, si/Pe-tche-lee. — Sew^ Obfervations on the Capital of China. — Province 
 of Shan-tung.— 0/" Kiang-nan.— Obfervations on the State of Agriculture in 
 China. — Rice Mills. — Proinnce (5/"Tche kiang. — 0/"Kiang-fee. — Population of 
 Chnna compared with that of England.— Erroneous Opinions entertained on this Sub- 
 ject. — Comparative Population of a City in China and in England. — Famines ac- 
 counted for. — Means of Prevention.— Caufes of the Populoufnefs of China. 
 
 V/N the 8th of 0£lober we embarked, for the fecond time, on 
 the Pei-ho in yachts, however, that were very different from 
 thofe on which we had afcended the river, being much fmaller 
 but broader in proportion to their length, and fo fhallow and 
 
 flat-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 489 
 
 flat-bottomed, that they required little depth of water ; yet we 
 found them fufficiently commodious. Of the neceflity of fuch 
 a change in the accommodation yachts, on account of the low 
 ftate of the river, we were fpeedily convinced, which, previous 
 to our embarkation, had been by fome attributed to a difterent 
 caufe. It was fuppofed that the men in office throughout the 
 country, piqued at the refufal of the Embaflador to fubmit to 
 their degrading ceremony, would not fail to retaliate the affront 
 by depriving us of every little comfort and convenience, and 
 by otherwife rendering the long journey before us extremely 
 unpleafant. The charader of the people at large juftified fuch 
 a conclufion ; and, I believe, every individual had laid his ac- 
 count of meeting with difficulties and difagreeable occurrences 
 on the journey to Canton. In jufticc, however, to thofe who 
 had the fuperintendence of the embafly, and particularly to the 
 two moft worthy characters Vciu and C/jo//, who were more im- 
 mediately connedled with its concerns, it is but fair to obferve 
 that no attention was wanting, nor expence fpared, to render 
 our fituation as eafy and comfortable as poffible. Supplies of 
 every kind were fent on board in the greateft profufion and 
 with the moft fcrupulous pundtuality. And as a fmgular proof 
 of attention fhewn to us in the commencement of this journey, 
 our conductors, having obferved that we ufed milk with our 
 tea, had purchafed two fine cows in full milk, which were put 
 on board a yacht prepared for their reception, for a fupply of 
 that article. And, it was obferved, that whenever the chief of- 
 ficers of the provinces, through which the embafly was to pafs, 
 prepared an entertainment in honour of the occafion, they had 
 
 3 R given
 
 490 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 given themfclves all pofllble trouble to rentier it more accept- 
 able, by endeavouring to ferve it up, as they thought, in the 
 Englifli ftyle. Tn fome of thofe fcafts we had hogs roafted 
 whole, that could not have weighed lefs than fifty pounds ; 
 quarters of mutton, geefe, ducks, and fowls roafted or boiled 
 whole, a mode of cookery altogether different to the pracflice 
 of the country, which is chiefly confined to that of ftewing 
 fmall liiorfcls of meat with greens or rice. The awkward 
 manner in which they were prepared, being generally burnt 
 and glazed over with oil, was entitled to and found an ample 
 excufe in the defire thus teftified of pleafing. 
 
 From the time that we firft embarked in Auguft at the mouth 
 of the Pey-ho, or White River, until our return, we experi- 
 enced only a fingle Ihower of rain. It is obferved, indeed, 
 that during the autumnal months the northern provinces en- 
 joy a cloudlefs fky ; an advantage of which they avail themfelves 
 in thrafhing out thedlfferent kinds of grain in the field, thus faving 
 the labour of bearing it into barns or piling it Into ftacks. It is 
 either thralhed out on clay floors with flails, funilar to our own, 
 beat out of the ear againfl: the edge of a plank, or trodden by 
 oxen or buffalos. The grain that we had noticed juft ftrlking 
 into the ear, on afcending the river, was now generally reaped. 
 It confifled principally of the different fpecies of millet, as be- 
 fore obferved, and a fmall proportion of the polygonum fogopy rum 
 or buck-wheat. A fpecies of dolichos or bean, that had been 
 fown between the drills of the TIolcu?, or tall millet, was now 
 in flower. 
 
 The 
 
 I
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 491 
 
 The range of Fahrenheit's thermometer In the province 
 of Pc-tcbelce, during the month of Auguil, was from 80° to 
 88" in the middle of the day, and during the niglit it remained 
 generally about 60° to 64Q. In September, the medium tem- 
 perat\ire at two o'clock was about 76° ; and in October about 
 63 "; but in the latter month, it decreafed in the night fome- 
 times to 44°. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the Pei-ho a light fandy foil chiefly 
 prevails, with a mixture of argillaceous earth and flimy matter, 
 interfperfed with fliining particles of mica ; but not a ilone of 
 any magnitude, nor pebbles, nor even gravel occur in the 
 whole extent of country through which this river is navigable. 
 The furface, indeed, is fb Hat and uniform, that the tide, 
 which rifes only nine or ten feet in the gulph 0I Pe-tcheleCy 
 flov/s to the diftance of thirty miles beyond Tien-faig, or one 
 hundred and ten miles from the mouth of the river ; and it fre- 
 quently fubmerges the whole country, notwithftanding the 
 great pains beftowed by the inhabitants in raifmg and keeping 
 in order artificial bank?. Such inundations, although fre- 
 quently the caufes of great fertility, are fometimes produdlive 
 of general calamity, cfpecially if they happen at a feafon when 
 the crop Is too far advanced. Thefe plains exhibit the appear- 
 ance of a more than ordinary incroachment of the land upon 
 the fea. The general level of the face of the country, at high 
 water, is not more elevated than two feet above the furface of 
 the river, of which not only the bed, but alfo the fubftratum 
 of the enclofmg banks, are compofed entirely of fine find fimi- 
 ■lar to that on the fhore of the fea. The deeped part of the 
 
 3 R 2 wide
 
 493 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 wide gulph oi Pe-tche-lee exceeds not twelve fathoms, and the 
 prodigious number of fmall fandy illands, jufi: appearing above 
 the furface, are faid to have been created within the records of 
 hiftory. A great portion of the enormous mafs of mud that is 
 perpetually wafted down the Yellow River, and which was 
 found by experiment to exceed two million folid feet in an 
 hour, is borne by a ftrong current from the Yellow Sea into 
 the gulph of Pe-tche-lec, where the ftillnefs of the water allows 
 it to fubfide. In the map of Marco Polo, which was moft 
 probably copied by him from one in the pofleffion of Gengis- 
 khan, or fome of the learned men about his court, Tiett-fwg is 
 placed upon the fea coaft ; and a branch of the Yellow River, 
 after traverfing the provinces Klang-nan^ Sbang-tung^ and part 
 of Pe-tche-lce, in the dire(Slion nearly of the prefent canal, dif- 
 charges itfelf into the gulph near the Pei-ho. Were this branch 
 of the river actually turned, the rapidity with which the gulph 
 oi Pe-tche-lee is filling up is the lefs furprifing, as the only 
 ftream to keep its waters in motion at prefent is the Pei-ho. It has 
 been calculated that, by the fimple turning of the great river that 
 falls from Winandermere-lake, the eftuary of Morecombe Bay, 
 which it now crofTes, would, in the natural courfe of events, be 
 converted in a few years into a green meadow. If the above- 
 mentioned chart be corred, it would prove alfo that the Mon- 
 gul Tartars did adually firft bring the grand navigation of China 
 to the ftate in which it now appears. 
 
 This uniform plain of China afforded little intereft to the 
 traveller. Few trees appeared, except now and then a clump 
 of firs furrounding a temple, or the plantations contiguous to 
 
 3 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 493 
 
 the dwelling of fome officer of government. In fuch fituations 
 were alfo large elms, willows, and a fpecles of afh unknown in 
 Europe. There were no hedge-rows. Property here is divided 
 only by narrow ditches, lerving at the fame time for drains, or 
 by ridges of unploughed ground, as in the common fields of Eng- 
 land, which anfwer the purpofe of foot-paths. Thcfe ridges 
 were generally well covered with that family of running trefoil, 
 known by the name of Melilotos, intermixed with a fpecies of 
 Poa or meadow grafs, Avena or wild oats, and Briza or quaking 
 grafs. In the ditches, befide the common reed the Arundo phrag- 
 7m(cs^ were growing two fpecies of Cjperus, and a Scirpus or 
 club-rufh. None of the artificial grafles, ufually fo called, are 
 cultivated by the Chinefe. It is not an objedt with them to 
 fodder their cows for the fake of obtaining a greater quantity 
 of milk, this nutritive article of food being very fparingly ufed 
 either in its raw ftate or in any preparation ; and they are 
 either ignorant of the procefles of converting it into butter and 
 cheefe, or, for certain reafons, prefer to employ the little they 
 make ufe of in its original ftate. Horfes are rarely kept for lux- 
 ury or for labour ; and the few animals employed in agriculture^ 
 which are moftly afies, mules, or buffalos, fubfill in the winter 
 feafon on chaff and flraw ; and their chief fupport in the fum- 
 mer is derived from the ftrong graffes that grow in the ditches 
 and the common reed, with which, in this part of the country, 
 large trads of fwampy ground are covered. 
 
 On approaching Tien-fing^ we obferved feveral large fields 
 cultivated with a vegetable called by the Chinefe the Pe-ffui, or 
 white herb, apparently a fpecies of Brajica or cole ; though 
 
 infipid
 
 4S4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 infipid in its tafte, being not unlike that of the cos-lettuce, it is 
 held in preference to all other vegetables ; and the capital is moft 
 abundantly fupplied with it in the fummer feafon frelh from the 
 gardens in its vicinity and, in the winter, falted and prepared 
 lomewhat in the fame manner as the Sotir-Krottt of the Ger- 
 mans. We obferved alfo in the gardens, carrots, turnips, black 
 radifhes, a fpecles of afparagus, the Solamim Mclotigena, a 
 fpccies of pbyfalh or winter-cherry, water-melons and mufk- 
 melons, pumpkins and cucumbers. Onions and garlic were 
 common vegetables planted near every peafant's houfe. The 
 'Trapa or water-caltrops grew in the ditches, the nuts of 
 which, with the feeds and the roots of the nelumbium, gene- 
 rally furnifhed out our defert ; to which, indeed, fometimes 
 were added tolerably good peaches, dry fpongy apples not 
 unlike quinces in appearance, and pears of an immenfe fizc but 
 of a harfh and auftere tafte. 
 
 However unfavorable the country might be for an extended 
 cultivation, which did not appear to be the cafe, the proximity 
 to the capital would have led one to expedt a correfponding 
 population. Nothing of the kind appeared ; the vaft numbers 
 we had obferved in alccndhig the river were drawn from the 
 diftance of many miles cut of mere curiofity; the inhabitants 
 only of the vicinity now (hewed themfelves ; and we were rather 
 furprized at the fewnefs o. thefe, as well as at the very ruinous 
 and m'ferable condition of almoft all the cottages. Thefe mean 
 huts were built, iome of half burnt bricks and others of clay, 
 and they were thatched with the ftraw of grain cr with reeds. 
 Some were' enclofed within walls of mud, or with a kind of 
 
 courfe
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 495 
 
 courfe matting made of reeds, or the ftalks of the holciis forghum^ 
 which enclofure generally contained the families of two or 
 three generations, the cattle, pigs, poultry, and all the living 
 creatures belonging to the eftablifhment. The Chinefe have a 
 common faying, that " although there be poverty without 
 " Pekin, there is plenty within its walls." The appearance, 
 indeed, of all the peafantry in this province was marked with 
 every indication of poverty ; nor was the condition much better 
 of thofe who were employed about the veffels which carried 
 the Embaflador and his train. With the greateft thankfulnefs 
 they received the offals of our allowance ; and the tea-leaves, 
 which we had ufed, were fought after by them with avidity 
 and boiled up for their beverage. A little boiled rice, or millet, 
 with a few vegetables, commonly the Pe-tfai^ and onions fried 
 in oil, conftituted their principal meals, of which they made 
 only two regular ones in the day, one about ten o'clock 
 in the morning, and the other at four or five in the afternoon. 
 They generally however had the frying-pan on the fire at three 
 or four o'clock in the morning. The wine or liquor, which 
 we received in large jars, and which was fo miferably bad 
 as not to be ufed, afforded a great treat to the poor people, 
 whofe circumftances feldom allowed them to tafte it. This 
 liquor is brewed from a mixture of rice and millet, and from 
 its quickly turning four leems to have little ftrength, and to 
 have undergone a very imperfe£t degree of fermentation. Their 
 hot wine is feldom ufed except by the upper clafs of people 
 who, not fatisfied with the ftrong empyreumatic flavour com- 
 municated in the diftillation, drink it boiling hot in the midft 
 
 of fummer. 
 
 At
 
 496 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 At Tieti-Shig our principal condudor Siin-ta-gin had pre- 
 pared for us a fumptuous entertainment, confifting of excellent 
 mutton, pork, venifon, and poultry of all kinds, a great variety 
 of confedionary, of fruits then in feafon, peaches, plumbs, 
 grapes, chefnuts, walnuts, and water-caltrops. We very foon 
 found indeed that we were treated with more ftudied attention, 
 with a more marked diftindion, and with lefs conftraint, than 
 when we afcended the river. Our dignified condudlor made no 
 difficulty in allowing us to walk on fliore as much as we pleafed ; 
 but recommended us not to quit the banks of the river for fear 
 of retarding the yachts or of being left behind. He hinted to 
 us, at the fame time, that the officers Va7i and Chou would be 
 refponfible at court for any accident that might happen to us, 
 fo long as we were under the protedion of the Emperor. 
 
 In paffing "Tien-Sing we found confiderable difficulty in 
 getting our fleet through the immenfe crowds of fliipping of 
 every defcription that were colleded there to remain for the 
 winter; among which were about five hundred of the Em- 
 peror's revenue veflels with grain for the capital. The Eu-ho^ 
 or precious river, called alfo the Yun-leang-ho^ or river upon 
 which grain is tranfported, falling from the weftward, forms, 
 at the head of this city, a confluence with the Pei-ho, Our 
 barges were at leaft four hours in getting through the multitude 
 of veflels that were moored, for their winter- quarters, in this 
 fmall river; which, however, is rendered important by its com- 
 municationL with the grand artificial canal. 
 
 Having
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 497 
 
 Having pafled the fleet of (hipping and the fuburbs, a plain 
 extending beyond the reach of fight opened out on the left of 
 the river, upon which v\'ere obferved many thoufands of fmall 
 fandy tumuli, of a conical form, refcmbling thofe hillocks which 
 in myriads are thrown up on the continent of Africa by the 
 Termites^ or white ants. In feveral parts of this plain were 
 fmall buildings, in the form of dwelling-houfes, but not ex- 
 ceeding four or five feet -in height; in other places were circu- 
 lar, femicircular, and fquare enclofures of ftonework, and here 
 and there were interfperfed fmall pillars of ftone or brick and 
 other ereitions of every variety of form. I his was the firft 
 common burying-ground that we had obferved, except a very 
 fmall one at Tong-tchoo ; and the tumuli and the different 
 eredlions marked out the manfions of the dead. In many parts 
 of this extenfive enclofure we met with mafTy coffins lying 
 upon the furface, fome new, others newly painted, but none in 
 a mouldering flate. It was explained to us, by our interpreter, 
 that fome of thefe coffins had been depofited there, until the 
 proper advice fhould be obtained from the prieft or the oracle 
 confulted, or from calling lots, as to the moft propitious place 
 of interment, and the moft favourable day for performing the 
 obfequies ; fome were placed there till the pecuniary circum- 
 ftances of the furviving relatives would enable them to beftow a 
 fultable interment, and others were left to dry and moulder, to 
 a certain degree, in order to be burnt and the afhes colledted 
 and put into ftone jars or other receptacles*. On no occafion 
 
 do 
 
 • From a pafTage In the manufcript journal of a Chinefe who accompanied the 
 Dutch embaffy it would appear, that the art of embalming the dead was once 
 
 3 i IcDown
 
 498 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 do the Chinefe bury their dead within the preclnds of a city or 
 town, much lefs within the walls of their temples ; but always 
 depofit them at a proper diftance from the dwellings of the 
 living, in which refpe£t they have more difcretlon than the 
 Europeans ; who not only allow the interment of dead bodies 
 in the midft of their populous cities, but have thruft them alfo 
 into places of public worfhip, where crowded congregations 
 are conftantly expofed to the naufeous effluvia, and perhaps 
 infection, arifing from putrid carcafes. Yet fo tenacious are 
 the people of the privilege of interment within the walls of the 
 church, in fome countries of Europe, that any attempt to dif- 
 continue the imprudent cuftom would be attended with fome 
 degree of danger, as happened to the late Grand Duke of Tuf- 
 cany who, having built a commodious and fpacious cemetery 
 without the city of Florence, to which it was intended to 
 remove the coffins out of the vaults of the church, had 
 nearly raifed a rebellion among his fubjedts. In Render % tour 
 through Germany, an inftance is given of the fatal effeds of 
 burying in churches, the relation of which makes one fhudder 
 with horror. 
 
 The bank of the river, being one of the enclofing fences to 
 the burying-ground, was ornamented with beautiful weeping 
 willows which, with a few folitary cyprefTes interfperfed among 
 
 known and prafUfed in this country. He obferves, that at Ou-tchf there is a temple 
 or pagoda inhabited by a number of priells, who ftiew the body of a very ancient 
 bonze, prepared in fuch a manner, and filled with fuch ingredients, that it does not 
 decay» but remains perfeflly entire. He is drtfled in his robes of ceremony^ and in 
 his hand he holds a machine vfhich was invented by him for cleaning rice. 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 499 
 
 the tombs, were the only trees that appeared in this part of the 
 country. 
 
 In a corner of the cemetery was a temple, built after the 
 ufual plan, with an altar in the center ; and a number of deities 
 moulded in clay were ranged on each fide on ftone pedeftals. 
 We obferved no priefts ; but an elderly lady was very bufily 
 employed in throwing the flicks of fate, in order to obtain a 
 lucky number in which, however, fhe failed. During the 
 operation of fhaking the cup, her countenance betrayed a greater 
 degree of eagernefs and anxiety than ufually appears on the 
 face of a Chinefe.; and fhe left the temple in a peevifh and 
 muttering tone, fufficiently expreffive of the greatnefs of her 
 difappointment which, it feemed, was no lefs than a refufal, on 
 the part of the oracle, to hold out the hope of her being blefTed 
 with a fecond hufband. Till this circumflance had been ex- 
 plained to us by the keeper of the temple, it was concluded that 
 the old lady had been muttering imprecations againft us for dif- 
 turbing her in the midfl of her devotions. 
 
 After two days' fail from Tkn-fing we arrived at a city of the 
 third order* called Tchien-Jlnen. The furface of the inter- 
 jacent country had continued the fame uniform plain, without a 
 pebble in the foil : the extent of cultivation by no means extraor- 
 dinary ; and the few fcattered villages of mean houfes indicated 
 
 • For the convenience of collefting and diftrlbuting the taxes raifed in kind, the 
 diftrifts, and cities within them, are divided into three claffes, diftinguifhed by the 
 adjunfts foo, tchoo, Jhun. "The Jhien is anfwerable to the uhoo ; the tchoo to the foo; 
 and theybo to the board of revenue in the capital. 
 
 3 s 2 no
 
 500 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 no great degree of population ; the dwellings that floated on the 
 •water were numerous and crowded with inhabitants. We ob- 
 ferved feveral plots of young wheat rifing in drills a few inches 
 above the ground. Buck-wheat was in full flower and feveral 
 plantations of the cotton plant, gojfypium herbaceurn, were in 
 pod, fome of them perfedly ripe. Fahrenheit's thermometer on 
 the 14th, 15th, and i6th of this month flood at 52° and ^t,*^ 
 in the morning, and about 70° in the middle of the day. 
 
 On the 17th, befide a great number of towns, villages and 
 military pofts, which are regularly placed at intervals of about 
 three miles, we pafled two cities of the third order, one of 
 which, from the length of its walls, appeared to be of very 
 confiderable importance. No true idea, however, can be form- 
 ed of the population and magnitude of aChinefe city by the ex- 
 tent of its enclofing walls. Few are without large patches of 
 unoccupied ground within them which, in many inftances, far 
 exceeds the quantity of land that is built upon. Even in that 
 part of the capital called the Chinefe city, feveral hundred acres 
 are under cultivation. The Imperial city, containing the 
 palace and buildings for the ofiicers of ftate, the eunuchs and 
 artificers, occupies very nearly a fquare mile, more than two- 
 thirds of which is a kind of park and pleafure grounds ; and 
 under the north wall of the Tartar city there is a pond or 
 fwamp covered almoft with the Nelumbium, which appeared to 
 be fully twice the dimenfions of Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, or four 
 times their fpace, namely near fifty acres. Such fpaces of 
 unoccupied ground might perhaps have been referved for the 
 ufe of the inhabitants in cafe of fiege, as the means of fupply- 
 
 ing
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 501 
 
 ing a few vegetables of the pungent kind, as onions and garlic, for 
 the befieged, which are the more neceflary for a people who 
 ufe fo finall a portion of animal food, and little or no milk. 
 Thus the cities of Babylon and Nineveh, which were fo fre- 
 quently expofed to the calamities of war and fiege, had gar- 
 dens and corn-lands within their walls. 
 
 On the 1 8th we pafled two cities and a great number of 
 towns and villages. The face of the country ftill level and en- 
 tirely open ; not a hedge-row appearing on any fide and very 
 few trees. Almoft all the veffels that we met in the courfc 
 of the day were laden with facks of cotton wool. This being 
 the night of full moon, we were allowed to enjoy very little 
 reft. The obfervance of the ufual ceremonies, which confifl 
 of firing their fmall petards, beating at intervals the noify 
 gong, harfh fqualling mufic and fire-works, required that 
 our vefTels fhould remain ftationary, and thefe nodturnal 
 orgies ceafed only with the appearance of the fun. There 
 \Y&s, however, another caufe of detention at this place. In 
 failing againft the ftream of the Eii-ho^ it was neceflary the 
 barges fliould be tracked by men and thefe men were to be 
 prefTed or forced into this laborious fervice from the villages 
 bordering upon the river. The ufual way of doing this was 
 to fend out the foldiers or attendants of the ofiicers before the 
 veflTels, in the dufk of the evening, to take the poor wretches 
 by furprize in their beds. But the ceremony of the full moon, 
 by retarding their ufual hour of retiring to reft, had put them 
 on their guard ; and, on the approach of the emiffaries of go- 
 vernment, all that were liable to be prefled into this fervice had 
 
 abfconded,
 
 502 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 abfconded, fo that, in addition to the noife of the gongs and 
 the trumpets and crackers, our ears were frequently affailed by 
 the cries and lamentations of perfons under the punifhment of 
 the bamboo or the whip, for claiming their exemption from 
 joining the yachts and ailing as trackers. When the groupe 
 that had been colleded for this purpofe was brought together 
 in the morning, it was impoffible not to regard it with an 
 eye of pity. Moft of them confuled of infirm and decrepit old 
 men, and the reft were fuch lank, fickly-looking, ill-clothed 
 creatures, that the whole groupe appeared to be much fitter for 
 an hofpital than for performing any kind of labour. Our com- 
 panions pretended to fay that every farmer, who rented lands 
 upon the public rivers or canals, was obliged, by the tenure on 
 which he held his leafe, to furnifli fuch a number of men to 
 track the veflels in the fervice of government whenever it might 
 be required ; but that, on the prefent being an extraordinary 
 occafion, they had refolved to pay them, as they called it, in a 
 handfome manner, which was at the rate of fomething lefs than 
 feven-pence a-day, without any allowance for returning to their 
 homes ; a price for labour which bore no fort of proportion to 
 that of the neceflaries of life ; and it was even doubtful if this 
 pittance was ever paid to them. 
 
 Having cleared the fleet of fhipping that was aflembled at 
 this place, a favourable breeze relieved our invalids and 
 rendered their flender exertions unneceflary for the greater part 
 of the day, in the courfe of which we entered the province of 
 Sban-tung. In this province nothing worthy of notice occurred 
 until the 22d, when we quitted the Eu-ho and turning towards 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 503 
 
 the fouth entered the grand canal, out of which we obferved 
 a gentle current flowing into the river. At this point of junc- 
 tion the pagoda oi Lin-tjin, an ocStagonal pyramid, was ere£ted, 
 perhaps as a monument of this great and ufeful undertaking,, 
 which, however, in its prefent ftate, apparently had not ftood 
 many ages. In the hope of findirtg within it fome infcription, 
 that might point out its defignation, we mounted with fome 
 difficulty upon the firft of its nine ftages or roofs (for the little 
 door on a level with the ground was walled up with bricks) 
 but it contained only the bare walls, not even a ftair-cafe re- 
 mained nor any pofTible means of afcending to the top, and 
 the lower part was choaked up with rubbifh. Thefe pagodas 
 (or as the Chlnefe name them 7'(3) that fo frequently occur in 
 the country, feem to be intended only as embellifhments to 
 particular grounds, or objects to terminate viftas or profpedis. 
 Sometimes, it is true, they appear as appendages to temples, but 
 are never appropriated for the purpofes of facred worfhip. 
 Whatever their intention might have been, it fhould feem the 
 rage of building them no longer exifts, not one of a late erec- 
 tion having appeared in the whole country, and more than two- 
 thirds of thofe we fav/ being in ruins. 
 
 At the jundion of the canal with the Eu-bo there was no 
 lock nor flood-gate ; the gentle current of the former was in- 
 terrupted only from place to place, by loofe planks let down 
 in grooves cut in ftone piers. Thefe dams feldom occafioned 
 the difference of a foot in the level of the water ; and at each 
 was a guard-houfe with double the ufual number of foldiers 
 ftationed, to affift in drawing up or letting down the planks, 
 
 as
 
 504 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 as occafion might require. The canal, which at the commence- 
 ment was from fixty to one liundred feet in width, was con- 
 traced at fuch places by the ftone piers of the flood-gates to 
 about thirty feet. 
 
 Towards the evening of the 23d, as we approached the city 
 I'ong'tchang-foo^ we were much amufed with a military ma- 
 noeuvre, which was evidently intended to aftonilh us. Under 
 the walls of this city about three hundred foldiers were drawn 
 out in a line, which, however, the darknefs of the night had 
 rendered invifible. But juft as we were coming to anchor, 
 each foldier, at the found of the gong, produced from under his 
 cloak a fplendid lantern with which he went through a regular 
 manual exercife. The following morning we obferved, for 
 the firft time, a few hillocks breaking the line of the horizon 
 to the eaftward. The country appeared to be in a tolerable 
 ftate of cultivation ; but the mode of tillage exhibited no extra- 
 ordinary degree of Ikill or of labour. Villages of confiderable 
 extent were eredted along the banks of the canal, at inter- 
 vals of about three miles from each other; and, in the gar- 
 dens contiguous to thefe, grew in abundance the tobacco 
 plant whofe leaves were fmall, hairy, and vifcous, and the 
 flowers of which were of a greenifh yellow pafllng into a faint 
 rofe colour at the edges of the petals. We obferved alfo fmall 
 patches of hemp. A greater ufe is made of the feeds and leaflets 
 of this plant, as a fubllitute for or to mix with tobacco, than 
 of its fibres for cloth, a purpofe to which it is as rarely con- 
 verted by the Chinefe as by the Hindoos, being little efteemed 
 for thofe valuable ufes to which, fmce its introduction into Eu- 
 rope,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 505 
 
 rope, it has been applied. The number of lateral branches^ 
 which in a warm climate each Pcem throws out clofe above the 
 lurftice of the ground, breaks the length of fibre and renders it 
 unfit for thofe purpofes for which, in the northern regions of 
 Plurope, its tall branchlefs fteai is fo well adapted. The fow 
 thiftle, a plant that occurs in almoll every part of the world, 
 was nothing different here from its ufual habit in Europe. We 
 obferved alfo a fpecies oi Chenopodlnm and g{ Artemcfm or worui- 
 wood ; abundance of the Pc-tfai, and other common culinary 
 vegetables. In the finall flower gardens, without which we 
 fcarcely obferved a fingle cottage, were balfams, feveral kinds 
 of beautiful afters, holy-hocks, two Ipecies of iWir/Zw/, an Ama- 
 ranthiis, and the Ihowy and handfome fhrub the Ncrium Ole- 
 ander. 
 
 Having palled on the 26th Odober the walls of the city 
 T'fie-ning^ where a multitude of fmall craft were lying at anchor, 
 we came to an extenfive lake of the fame name, navigated by 
 a great number of failing boats. From the eaft fide of this lake 
 the canal was feparated only by an immenfe mound of earth. 
 To the weftward the whole country, beyond the reach of fight, 
 was one continued fvvamp or morafs, upon which were inter- 
 fperfed pools or ponds of water abounding with the nelum- 
 bium, at this time in full flower. The morafs being feveral 
 feet below the furface of the water in the canal afi^ordcd the 
 means of regulating the quantity ; and, accordingly, at certain 
 diftances, we obferved ftone arches turned in the earthen em- 
 bankment to let off the fuperfluous water that might be occa* 
 fioned by the fwelling of the feeding rivers. About this place 
 
 3 T alfo,
 
 5c6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 alfo, it was remarked, that the bed of the canal was carried in a 
 line fo nearly horizontal, that the water had a gentle current 
 either to the northward or the fouthward, according as thefe 
 fluices were kept fhut or thrown open ; this line being afcer- 
 tained, perhaps, rather by the furface of the lake than by the 
 afiiftance of inftruments ; for it was fufficiently remarkable, that 
 no opportunity had been omitted in carrying this great work 
 along the fide, or through the middle, of lakes or other pools of 
 water wherever It could be done. 
 
 The nature of the country admitted of fuch management for 
 three days' journey, or about eighty miles from Tfie-n'mg. The 
 whole of this extenfive plain confifted in lakes or fwampy 
 ground half covered with water. On the former were conftant- 
 ly feen moving about vefl'els with fails and boats of every de- 
 fcription, conveying an animated pidlure of adivity, induftry, 
 and commerce. Almofl all the lakes were fludded with iflands 
 and thefe were covered with villages, that were chiefly inha- 
 bited by fifhermen. Here, for the firft time, we obferved the 
 Leu-tze or fifliing corvorant, the Felicanus Sinenfis, diving after 
 the finny tribe and feemingly no lefs anxious than its mailer 
 to take them. This bird is fo like another fpecies of the pelican, 
 called the Carbo or common corvorant which in England, as 
 naturalifts inform us, was formerly trained for filhing, that it has 
 ufually been confidered the fame, but from feveral fpecimens 
 brought home with us it appears to be a different fpecies. The 
 ufual praftice is to take ten or twelve of thefe birds, in the 
 morning when falling, upon a raft of bamboo poles laflied to- 
 gether, and to let one or two at moll at a time dive for fifli, 
 
 which
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 507 
 
 which are taken from them the moment they bring them to the 
 furface. Thefe birds, not much larger than the common duck, 
 will feize and gripe faft fifhes that are not lefs than their own 
 weight. When the proprietor judges the firft pair to be pretty 
 ■well fatigued, they are fuffered to feed by way of encourage- 
 ment on fome of the fifli they have taken, and a fecond pair 
 are difpatched upon the water. The filh we obferved them to 
 take was a fpecies of perch. In the courfe of three days' navi- 
 gation, we faw feveral thoufand boats and rafts employed in this 
 kind of fifhing. 
 
 Except on the water and the iflands, the whole of the 
 fwampy country might be faid to be uninhabited and totally 
 void of any kind of cultivation. Sometimes, indeed, a few mi- 
 ferable mud huts appeared on the fmall hillocks that here and 
 there raifed their heads out of the dreary wafte of morafs ; but 
 the chief inhabitants were cranes, herons, guillemots and a vaft 
 variety of other kinds of birds that frequent the waters and 
 fwamps. Here too are great numbers of that fingularand beau- 
 tiful bird, the Anas Gakriculata, ufually known by the name 
 of the Mandarin duck which, like the gold and filver fifhes, 
 is caught and reared as an article of fale to the opulent and curi- 
 ous. The great extent of water had a fenfible effect on the tem- 
 perature of the ail', efpecially in the mornings and evenings, 
 when Fahrenheit's thermometer was fometimes below 40°. 
 
 Having pafied the lakes and fwamps, we entered fuddenly, 
 on the 31ft, upon a moft delightful part of the country, crowded 
 with temples and villages and towns and cities, near all of 
 
 3 T 2 which.
 
 5o8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 which, and on every part of the canal, were vafl: numbers of 
 the revenue veOels, collecting the furplus taxes paid in kind, 
 in order to tranTport them to the capital. Wheat and cotton ap- 
 peared to be the two principal articles of culture. Tiie furface 
 of the country was now broken into hill and dale, every inch 
 appeared to be under tillage, except the fummit of the knolls, 
 which were generally crowned with forefi: trees, and few of 
 the detached houfes or temples were without extenfive gar- 
 dens and orchards. Apples, pears, plums, peaches, apricots 
 and pomgranate^, were the common kinds of fruir, and the 
 culinary vegetables were the fame as thofe of Pc-tchc-lee. 
 The canal at this place is, perhaps, the grandeft inland navi- 
 gation in the whole world, being nearly a thoufand feet in 
 width and bordered on each tide by ftone quays, built with 
 mafly blocks of grey marble mixed with others of granite ; and 
 this immenfe aqueduft, although forced up feveral feet above 
 the furface of the country by embankments thrown up by the 
 labour of man, flowed with a current of three miles an hour near- 
 ly towards the Yellow River, to which we perceived we were 
 fafl: approaching, by the buftle and adlivity both on fliore and 
 on the numberlefs canals that branched out in every diredion 
 from the main trunk ; on whofe banks, for feveral miles on 
 either fide, one continued town extended to the point of junc- 
 tion with this large river, celebrated in every period of the 
 Chinefe hiftory. A village was particularly pointed out by the 
 bargemen, whofe name was derived from a miracle, which is 
 moft facredly believed by the Chinefe. Tradition fays, that 
 the famous aftronomer Heu was carried up to Heaven in his 
 
 I houfe.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 509 
 
 houfe, which ftooJ at this place, leaving hchind him ati old 
 faithful fervant who, being thus deprived of his mafter and 
 his habitation, was reduced to beggary ; but happening by ac- 
 cident to throw a little prepared rice into the ground, it imme- 
 diately grew and produced grain without chaff for his fuften- 
 ance ; from whence the place is called Sen-inec^ rice growing 
 ready drejjcd, to this day. 
 
 Before our barges launched into the ftream of the Yellow- 
 River, which rolled in a very rapid torrent, certain cere- 
 monies were conceived to be indifpenfably neceflary. In the 
 pradical part of religion (which indeed may be confidered as 
 nearly the v/hole) a Chinefe is not lefs folicitous to avert a pof- 
 fible evil, than to procure an eventual good ; and of all evils 
 perfonal danger is moft apprehended. It was therefore deemed 
 expedient, that an oblation fhould be made in every veflcl 
 of the fleet to the genius of the river. The animals that were 
 facrificed, on this occafion, were different in different yacht?, 
 but they generally confifled of a fowl or a pig, two animals that 
 were very common in Grecian facrifice?. The blood, with the 
 feathers and the hair, was daubed upon the principal parts of 
 the vefTel. On the forecaftle of feme were placed cups of wine, 
 oil and fait ; in others, tea, flour and fait ; and in others, oil, 
 rice and fait. The laft article appears to be thought by the 
 Chinefe, as well as by the Hebrews, a neceffary accompani- 
 ment to every facrifice. *' Every oblation of thy meat-offer- 
 " ing fhalt thou feafon with fait : neither flialt thou fuffer the 
 " fait of the Covenant of thy God to be lacking from thy fneat- 
 " offering." As, however, the high prieft and his friends 
 
 were
 
 510 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 were to feafl: on thofe parts of the meat-offevlng, which were 
 confidered as unworthy the acceptance of heaven, which parts, 
 by the way, were always the beft of the vidlim, one might, 
 perhaps, affign a reafon for the ftrong injundion of offering fait, 
 this being a fcarce article in many countries of the Eafl and the 
 beft prefervatlve of meat againft putrefixdlion *. 
 
 The cups, the flaughtered animal and feveral made-difhes 
 remained on the forecaftlc, the Captain ftanding over them on 
 one fide and a man with a gong in his hand on the other. On 
 approaching the rapid part of the flream, at the fignal given by 
 the gong, the Captain took up the cups one by one, in order 
 that, like the Greeks of old, he might " perform the rites and 
 " pour the ruddy wine ;" which he did by throwing their con- 
 tents over the bow of the veffel into the river. The libation per- 
 formed, a quantity of crackers and fquibs and gilt tin foil were 
 burnt, with uplifted hands, whilft the deep-founding gong was 
 inceffantly ftruck with increafing violence as the veffels were 
 fvv'ept along with the current. The vi(5tim and the other difhes 
 were then removed for the ufe of the Captain and crew, and 
 the ceremony ended by three genuflexions and as many 
 proftrations. The Emperor is never fatisfied with lefs than 
 nine. 
 
 * The Far et mtcafalis were parts of mod of the Roman facrifices, and fait, in 
 particular, was held in fuch veneration, and in fuch general ufe, that when any one 
 obtained a falary or penfion, he was faid to have got his Solarium, or fomething to 
 procure his fait, in the fame fenfe, as we fay, to get one's bread ; and a common ex- 
 preflion in India, denoting fervice, is, I eat the fait of fuch a one; and the Dutch 
 in fpeaking of a dependent fay, he owes his fait to fuch a one. Thefe coincidences 
 of opinion, or cuftom, among remote nations, however difficult they may be to ex- 
 plain, are neverthelefs extremely interefting and are on that account here noticed. 
 
 Our
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 511 
 
 Our fleet confifted of about thirty fail, and from each veflel 
 there proceeded, on its launching into the ftream, fuch a din 
 of gongs and crackers and fuch volumes of fmoke from the 
 burnt offerings, that the deity of the river muft have been in a 
 very furly humour if he was not pleafed with fuch a multitude 
 of oblations. The fafe arrival, on the oppofite bank, of the 
 whole fquadron was a proof of his having accepted the ho- 
 mage, and accordingly he was again addreffed in a volley of 
 crackers as a token of thanks for his propitious and friendly 
 aid. 
 
 The width of the river at this place was full three quarters 
 of a mile ; and the ftream, where ftrongeft, ran with the rapi- 
 dity of feven or eight miles an hour ; and the water was as 
 thick and muddy as if the heavieft torrents of rain had juft de- 
 fcended, whereas, in fa(fb, there had not fallen a fhower for many 
 months. 
 
 The length of that part of the canal which lies between the 
 Eu-ho and the Yellow River, and which we had now failed 
 over, is about two hundred Englifh miles. The natural flope 
 of the country being from North to South, the projedlors of 
 this work feem to have fixed upon the middle point, or nearly 
 fo, between thefe two rivers for the commencement of their 
 operations : fo that from this middle point to the northward, 
 or rifing part of the country, they have been under the necef- 
 fity, in order to preferve their level, of cutting down to the • 
 depth of thirty, forty, and even to fevcnty feet, below the fur- 
 face ; whilft from the fame point to the fouthward, or dcfcend- 
 ingpart of the country, they have been obliged to force up the 
 
 water
 
 5^; 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 water between immenfc banks of earth and flone. far above the 
 level of the fiat furface ; confiding almofl entirely of lakes, 
 fwamjis, and moraf!*. The quantity of human labour that muft 
 have been employed, in amaffing togelher the different materials 
 that compofe this immenfe aqueduft, could not have been fup- 
 plled, in any reafonable length of time, except in a country 
 Vv'here millions could be fet to work at the nod of a defpot. 
 The greateft vs'orks in China liave always been, and ftill con- 
 tinue "to be, performed by the accumulation of manual labour, 
 without the affiftance of machinery, except on very particular 
 occafions, where fome mechanical power may be abfolutely 
 neceffary to be brought in aid of human ftrength. Thus, 
 where canals are carried over furfaces that are too hilly and un- 
 even to admit of one continued level, they defcend from place 
 to place, as it were by fteps, at each of which is an inclined 
 plane ; the height from the upper canal to the lower being 
 generally from fix to ten feet ; and the angle of the plane from 
 forty-five to fifty degrees. All vefTels navigating fuch canals 
 muft be hoifted up thefe planes by the affiftance of upright cap- 
 ftans, without which it would fcarcely be poffible to get thofe of 
 large demenfions, together with their cargo, out of one canal into 
 the other; and they are gently lowered in the fame manner^ 
 This awkward contrivance may, perhaps, lefs imply the igno- 
 rance of locks or other methods pradifed elfevvhere, than the 
 unwlllingnefs of the government to fuffer any innovation that 
 might be the means of depriving many thoufands of obtaining 
 that fcanty fubfiftence, which they now derive fr. m their atten- 
 dance at thefe capftans. However fliglitly fuch a notion may 
 be held in Europe, there can be no doubt that a general intro- 
 
 duftlon
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 51J 
 
 duftion of machinery into China, for the purpole of facilitating 
 and expediting labour \^ould, in the prefent ftate of the country, 
 be attended with the moft pernicious and diftrefling confe- 
 quences; 'were it only for this fimple reafon that, defpifing, as 
 they afFe£t to do, all foreign commerce, the demand for the 
 produifls of machinery, however much they might be reduced 
 in price, would not be cncreafed, "whilfl; that of manual labour 
 would confiderably be diminifhed. 
 
 Senfible as the Chinefe feem to be of the advantages derived 
 from an eafy communication between the different parts of the 
 empire, by means of canals, it is the more furprizing what the 
 motives could have been that, till this moment, have reftrained 
 them from facilitating an intercourfe by means of good roads, 
 in fuch parts of the country as have no inland navigations. In 
 this rcfpeil they fall fhort of moft civilized nations. Except 
 near the capital, and in fome few places where the jundion of 
 the grand canal with navigable rivers is interrupted by moun- 
 tainous ground, there is fcarcely a road in the whole country 
 that can be ranked beyond a foot-path. Hence it happens that 
 in the northern provinces, during winter, it is impoflible to 
 travel with any degree of eafe, convenience, or (lifety ; all the 
 canals to the northward of the Yellow River, which runs from 
 34° to 35" latitude being frozen up. It is equally furprizing 
 that their ingenuity has not extended itfelf to the invention of 
 fledges or fome fort of carriages fuitable for travelling on ice, 
 which other nations have converted into the beft of roads *. 
 
 The 
 
 • I infer that fuch is not the praflice in China, from the manner in whicL 
 the Dutch Embaffadors were conveyed to and from tlie capital in the middle of 
 
 , u winter.
 
 •514. TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The continuation of the Grand Canal, frona the Yellow 
 River to the Tang- tfe-kiang^ was conRrudted upon the fame 
 
 ■winter. The inconvenlcncies they fuffered on this occafion are fuch as can fcarcely 
 be conceived to have happened In a civilized country. The perufal of the manu- 
 fcript journal I have elfewhere noticed conveyed to my mind the idea of a country 
 dreary and defolate, and of a people indigent ar.d diftreHed ; without humanity, and 
 ■without ho-fpitality. They travelled in little bamboo chairs, carried by four men, 
 who -were generally fo weak and tuttering that they could not go through the day's 
 journey, but were obliged, frequ-=-nJy, in the middle of the night, to halt in an open 
 uninhabited part of the country, -.vhere not a hovel of any defcription was to be met 
 with to fhelter them from the inclemency of the weather. And it moll commonly 
 _ happened, that the lodgings appointed for their reception, at the different flages, were 
 in fuch a miferable condition^ admitting on every fide the wind, rain, or fnow, that 
 they generally preferred taking alittle reft in their bamboo chairs. They were furprized 
 to find fo few cities, towns, or villages In their route, and not lefs furprized at the 
 ruinous condition in which thefc few appeared to be. Near the capital a whole city exhi- 
 bited only a mafs of ruins. In many places they found the country under water, 
 and the mud hovels completely melted down. Sometimes they palTed extenfive 
 waftes, where not a trace was vlfible of any kind of cultivation, nor a fingle dwelling 
 occurred in the diflance of eight or ten Englifh miles. And it was not before they 
 had crofled the Yellow River that they perceived the marks of whee'-carriages im- 
 printed on the roads, which were fo little travelled upon that they could with diffi- 
 culty be traced. Here they met old men and young women travelling in wheel- 
 barrows ; and Utters carried by afles, one being fixed between the poles before, and 
 one behind. The rivers had no bridges over them ; and fuch as were too deep to 
 be forded, they were tmder the neceflity of croQIng on rafts of bamboo. In Ihort, 
 before they arrived at the capital, the fatigue and hardfhips they had undergone 
 confiderably Impaired their health, and the condition of their clothing was fuch as 
 to excite the compafllon of the mandarines, who made them a prefent of twenty 
 (heep-lkin jackets, drefled with the wool upon them ; which, like the Hottentots, 
 they wore inwards. One of thefe gentlemen alFured me, that having fatisfied his 
 curiofity, no earthly conCderation fhould tempt him to undertake a fecond journey 
 by land to the capital ; for that he believed the whole world could not furnlfh a like 
 plflure of defolation and mifery. What a contraft Is here exhibited to the eafe and 
 convenience with which our journey was made ! But the whole treatment of the 
 Dutch embafly feems to have been proportioned to the degree of Importance which 
 the Chinefe attached to the political condition of this nation. 
 
 I principles
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 515 
 
 principles as that part between the Yellow River and the Eti-ho. 
 The country being level and abounding with lakes and marfliy 
 grounds, it was carried upon a mound of earth kept together by. 
 retaining walls of ftone the whole diftance, which is about ninety 
 miles, being in parts not lefs than twenty feet above the general 
 level of the country ; and the (heet of water it contained was 
 two hundred feet in width, running fometimes at the rate of 
 three miles an hour. Canals of communication fupplied it from 
 the weftward ; and the fuperfluous water was let off upon the 
 low marfhes. The tops of the w^alls of 'Pao-yiig-Jhien were 
 juft on a level with the furface of the water in the canal fo 
 that if the bank oppofite to it were to burft, the whole city muft 
 inevitably be inundated. Very little cultivation appeared in this 
 low marfhy country, but abundance of towns and villages, the 
 inhabitants of which fubfifted by fifliing. A prodigious extent 
 of low country on each fide of the Yellow river, perhaps not 
 much lefs than the furface of all England, is liable to inunda- 
 tions. The Chinefe fay, the overflowing of this river has been 
 more fatal to the country than war, peftilence, or famine. The 
 Emperor Kaung-JJjee, in order to diftrefs a rebel in the province 
 of Hunati, ordered a bank to be broken down behind a city he 
 had got pofTeflion of; but the inundation was fo great, that not 
 only the rebel forces were deftroyed, but almoft half a million 
 of people were completely fwept away ; and among thefe were 
 feveral European miflionaries. Vaft fums of money are ex- 
 pended in confining this river within its banks. The fame Em- 
 peror in his lafl will declares, that the fums of money iflued 
 annually from the Imperial treafury for the embankments to 
 prevent inundations, were never lefs, during his whole reign, 
 
 3 u 2 thaa
 
 5i6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 than 3,000,000 ounces of filver, equivalent to one niillion 
 fterling. 
 
 On approaching the Yang-tjc-k'icuig the appearance of the 
 country improved, juft as it had done in the vicinity of the Yel- 
 low River. The town oi Sau-poo, extending along the quay of 
 the canal, confifted .of houfes that were generally two ftories 
 high, apparently well built, white-wafhed with lime and kept 
 in neat and clean order. The inhabitants were alfo better 
 cloathed than we had hitherto been accuftomed to fee them. The 
 women were lefs fhy in their advances ; their complexions were 
 much fairer and their features more foft and handfome than any 
 we had yet obferved in the northern provinces. 
 
 The walls and gates of Tang-tcboo-foo bore marks of great 
 antiquity, being partly in ruins and almofi: entirely overgrown 
 with mofs and creeping plants. A thoufand veflels, at leafl, of 
 different defcriptions were lying under its walls. Here we re- 
 mained for the night ; and the following morning, being the 
 5th of November, we launched into the grand and beautiful river 
 called the Tang-tfc-kiang^ which at this place was about two 
 miles in width ; but the current was fo gentle, that no oblation 
 to the prefiding deity was thought to be neceffary. The nume- 
 rous iflands rifing out of the river and covered with verdure, 
 the multitude of fhips of war, of burden and of pleafure, fome 
 gliding down the ftream, others failing againft it ; fome mov- 
 ing by oars and others lying at anchor; the banks on either 
 fide covered with towns and houfes, as far as the eye could 
 reach, prefented a profpeft more varied and cheerful than any 
 
 that
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 517 
 
 that had hitherto occurred. Nor was the canal, on the oppofite 
 fide, lefs lively ; for two whole days we were continually palling 
 among fleets of veflels of different conftrudions and dimenfions, 
 thofe belonging to the revenue department being the largefl:, each 
 capable of carrying, at leaft, two hundred tons. Cities, towns 
 and villages were continued along the banks without intermif- 
 fion : and vaft numbers of ftone bridges were thrown acrofs the 
 canal, fome having one, fome two, and others three arches. 
 The face of the country was beautifully diverfified with hill and 
 dale and every part of it in the higheft (late of cultivation. 
 The chief produce was that particular fpecies of cotton, of a 
 yellowilh tinge, known in Europe by the name of nankin. 
 
 The fuburbs o^ Sou-tchoo-foo employed us full three hours in 
 paffing before we reached the walls of the city, where a mul- 
 titude of vcfrels were lying at anchor. The numerous inhabi- 
 tants that appeared upon and without the walls of this exten- 
 five city, were better dreffed and feemed to be more contented 
 and cheerful, than we had yet obferved them in any other place. 
 For the moft part they weie cloathed in filk. The ladies were 
 here dreffed in petticoats and not in trowfers, as they had 
 hitherto appeared to the northward. The general falhion of 
 the head-drefs was a black fatln cap with a triangular peak, the 
 point defcending to the root of the nofe, in the middle of 
 which, or about the centre of the forehead, was a cryftal but- 
 ton. Tjie whole face and neck were wafhed with a prepara- 
 tion of white lead and the cheeks highly rouged ; and two Ver- 
 million fpots, like wafers, were particularly confpicuous, one 
 on the centre of the under lip and the other on the chin. Their 
 
 feet
 
 5i8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 feet were univerfally fqueezed down to an unnatural fize. Few 
 'females were feen among the immenfe crowds that the novelty 
 of the fight had brought together, but great numbers had aflem- 
 bled in the houfes and particularly on board the pleafure or 
 paflage yachts, with the intention of fatisfying their curiofity. 
 The fuperior ftyle of drefs and the appearance of the women 
 in public at this place, fo different from the general cuftom of 
 the country, could only be explained to us by the writings of 
 the Chrillian miflionaries, who obferve that the concubines of 
 mandarins and men of property are chiefly procured from the 
 cities of Tang-tchoo and of Son-tchoo, where they are educated 
 in the pleafing arts of Tinging, mufic and dancing and every 
 other accompliftiment fuitable to women of fuperior rank, in 
 order to render them the more agreeable and fafcinating. That 
 fuch women are generally purchafed by perfons engaged in 
 the trade, in different parts of the country, and trained in thefe 
 cities, where they are difpofed of to the highefl: bidder, " this 
 " be'uig the principal branch of trade that is carried on in thofe 
 " two cities." How do thefe holy men reconcile fo infamous a 
 traffic among a people whom they have adorned with every 
 virtue ? a people whom they have rendered remarkable among 
 nations for [their filial piety ! Is there on earth a crime 
 more revolting againfl civilized nature, or more deteftable to 
 civilized fociety, than that of a parent felling his own child and 
 configning her, exprefsly and voluntarily, into a flate of profti- 
 tution ? Thofe unfortunate wretches who, in Europe, have by 
 any accident reduced themfelves to that degraded and deplor- 
 able condition of becoming fubfervient to the pleafures of a 
 man, whom they probably deteft, are generally the objeds of 
 
 . pity,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 519 
 
 pity, however their cohdud may be difapproved ; but a parent, 
 who fliould be the caufe of reducing them to fuch a ftate, would 
 be execrated ; but the affertion is as abfurd as ridiculous, and 
 the writer mud have been very credulous to fuppofe, that the 
 /r/«f/^«//r^rt'(? of one of the largeft cities in the world, whofe 
 population cannot be lefs than a million of fouls, fhould confift 
 in buying and felling ladies of pleafure. Buying females in 
 the legal way is certainly the greateft branch of trade throughout 
 China, as every woman there is bought and fold. Thefe reve- 
 rend gentlemen likewife inform us, with great indifference, 
 that if a man be defirous of having a male child and his wife 
 fhould happen to be barren, he will purchafe one of thefe con- 
 cubines for the fole purpofe of getting an heir ; and, when this 
 is accomplifhed, he either provides her with a hufband, or 
 turns her adrift. Such are the moral virtues of the Chinefe, 
 compared with whom all other nations have been accounted 
 barbarous *. 
 
 To the weft of Sau-tchoo-foo Is a range of mountains higher 
 than any we had yet feen, well covered with wood ; and an 
 extenfive lake ftretches along their bafe, famed in China for 
 Its pidturefque beauties and for Its lifli. We would gladly 
 have made a party of pleafure to this delightful fpot, but In- 
 numerable objedlions, as ufual, were ftarted by our condudlors, 
 on the fcore of delay that fuch an cxcurfion would occafion. 
 
 * It may be obferveJof almoft all the writings of the miflionaries concerning China, 
 that virtues of fo trifling a nature as liardly to Jeferve tlie name, have met their un- 
 qualified praife, whillT: enormous vices have eitlier been palliated or paffed over in 
 filence. 
 
 The
 
 530 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 The two great produds of this part of the country are rice 
 ynd filk; the former of which, at this time, they were bufily 
 employed in reaping. Plantations of the mulberry tree were 
 extended on both fides of the canal and into the country be- 
 yond the reach of fight. They appeared to be of two diftinfl 
 fpecies ; the one, the common mulberry, viorus nigra, and the 
 other having much fmaller leaves, fmooth and heart-fliaped, 
 and bearing a white berry about the fize of the field ftrawberry. 
 The latter had more the habit of a fhrub, but the branches of 
 neither were fuffcred to run into ftrong wood, being frequently 
 pruned in order that the trunk might annually throw out 
 young fcions, whofe leaves were confidered to be more tender 
 than fuch as grew from old branches. Another reafon was alfb 
 affigned for this operation, A tree, when left to itfelf, throws 
 out the gveatefl part of its leaves at once, in the fpring of the 
 year, but if the thick wood be cut out from time to time, new 
 leaves will continue to pufh below the parts fo cut off during 
 the whole feafon ; and, accordingly, the Gliinefe are particularly 
 attentive to prune afrefli in the autumn, in order to obtain a 
 fupply of young leaves in the after- fpring. The thermometer 
 at this place, on the 9th of November at fun-rife, flood at 64", 
 and at noon in the lliade at 70° degrees. 
 
 It was In this part of the canal where the bridge of ninety- 
 one arches, mentioned in the fixth chapter, was thrown acrofs the 
 arm of a lake that joined the canal. I lament exceedingly that 
 we pafled this extraordinary fabric in the night. It happened to 
 catch the attention of a Swifs fervant who, as the yacht glided 
 along, began to count the arches, but finding them increafe in 
 
 number
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 521 
 
 number much beyond his expeiflation and, at the fame time, 
 in dimenfions, he ran into the cabin caUing out with great 
 eagernefs, *' For God's fake, gentlemen, come upon deck, for 
 " here is a bridge fuch as I never faw before ; it has no 
 " end." Mr. Maxwell and I haftened upon deck and, by the 
 faint light, could fufficiently diftingnifti the arches of a bridge 
 running parallel with the eaftern bank of the canal, acrofs the 
 arm of a vaft lake, with which the navigation thus communi- 
 cated. From the higheft point, or what appeared to us to be 
 the central arch, I counted forty-five to the end ; here they 
 were very fmall, but the central arch I guefled to be about thir- 
 ty feet high and forty wide ; and the whole length of the bridge 
 I calculated to be about half a mile. The conftrudlion of fuch 
 a bridge, in fuch a fituation, could obvioufly have been emr- 
 ployed for no other purpofe than that of opening a free commu- 
 nication with the lake ; and, at the fame time, of avoiding the 
 labour and expence of accumulating materials fufficient for mak- 
 ing a folid embankment. 
 
 After failing a great part of the day through a foreft of mul- 
 berry trees, planted with much regularity, we arrived on the 
 loth at the city oi Ha?2g-tchoofoo, the capital of the province 
 of 'Tche-kiatig. Here that branch of the grand canal which com- 
 municates with the Yaiig-tfe-k'nijig terminates in a large com- 
 modious bafon, at this time crowded with fhipping. From this 
 bafon a number of fmaller canals, pafTing through arches 
 turned in the walls and interfeding the city in every diredion, 
 are finally united in a lake beyond the weftern wall called the 
 See-boo. The natural and artificial beauties of this lake far . 
 
 3 X exceeded
 
 522 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 exceeded any tl.ing we had hlthert-o had an opportunity of fee- 
 ing in China. The mountains furrounding it were lofty and 
 broken into a variety of forms that were highly pi(fturefque ; 
 and the vallies were richly cloathed with trees of different kinds, 
 among which three fpecies were remarkably ftriking, not only 
 by their intrinfic beauty, but alfo by the contraft they formed 
 with thenifelves and the reft of the trees of the foreft. Thefe 
 were the Lauriis Camphora or camphor tree, the Croton fcbi- 
 feriim or tallow tree, and the Tbuia Oricntalis or arbor vitaz. 
 The bright fhining green foliage of the firft, mingled with the 
 purple leaves of the fecond, and overtopped by the tall and 
 ftately tree of life^ of the deepeft green, produced a pleafing 
 effect to the eye ; and the landfcape was rendered ftill more in- 
 terefting to the mind, by the very fmgular and diverfified ap- 
 pearance of feveral repofitories of the dead, upon the floping 
 fides of the inferior hills. Here, as well as elfewhere, the fom- 
 bre and upright cyprefs was deftined to be the melancholy 
 companion of the tombs. Higher ftill among the woods, 
 avenues had been opened to admit of rows of fmall blue houfes, 
 fupported on white colonnades which, on examination, were 
 alfo found to be manfions of the dead. Naked coffins of extra- 
 ordinary thicknefs were every where lying upon the furface of 
 the ground. 
 
 The lake that extended from the walls of the city to the feet 
 of the mountains, and threw its numerous arms into the wooded 
 vallies, was the feat of pleafure, as well as of profit, to the in- 
 habitants of Hang-tchoo-foo. Thefe amufements, however, of 
 floating upon barges in the lake are principally confined to one 
 
 fex.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 523 
 
 lex. Few women, except thofe of" loofe charadler, join in the 
 parties of men. How miferable or, at beft, how little intcrefl 
 can be ralfed in that ftate of fociety where no fecial intercourfc 
 of the fexes exlfts ; where fentiment, nice feeling and the fport 
 and play of the foftev paflions are totally unknown, and where 
 reafon and philofophy are at fo low an ebb ! In more enlight- 
 ened countries, when age may have weakened the ardour of 
 joining in the fprightly female circle, or inclination lead to 
 more ferious converfations, numberlefs refources are ftill left 
 to exercife the faculties of the mind, and fociety may always 
 be had for fuch as can relifh 
 
 " The feaft of rciilbn and the flow of foul." 
 
 But in China the tenor of their converfation mufl: be always 
 nearly the fame, turning chiefly on the affairs of the neigh- 
 bourhood, the injuflice of the magiftrates, the tricks and ftra- 
 tagems of the crafty merchant, or of the low mechanic. In 
 entertainments given by thofe who can afford to drink wine, it 
 is feldom ferved round as in other countries, but a number of 
 puerile contrivances are praflifed to determine which of the 
 party is to drink, as in the cafe I have already noticed of ibc 
 game of the Jiiigers. Thus, a nofegay is paffed round from 
 hand to hand, whilft a man in an adjoining room beats a drum 
 or the gong, and he who happens to hold the nofegay when 
 the inftrument ceafes muft drink a cup of wine. Many other 
 methods ftill more childifh are reforted to, in order to pafs 
 the time and to give a zeft to their wine ; but the ufual refource 
 here, as well as elfewhere, again ft the tedioufnefs of time, is 
 gaming. An attachment to this vice accompanies the loweft 
 
 3x2 Chinefe
 
 524 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Chlnefe wherever he goes. It is laid that in one of our eallern 
 colonies, where Chinefe are encouraged to fettle, they pay to 
 the government the annual fum of ten thoufand dollars for a 
 licence to keep gaming tables and fell opium. 
 
 Our route being neceflarily delayed for two days at this place, 
 on account of an intervening neck of land over which all the 
 baggage was to be tranfported, I prevailed upon our good-na- 
 tured companion Van-ta-g'in to make a party to the lake See- 
 hoo, to which he readily affented ; and this was the only excur- 
 fion that we had in the courfe of the whole journey. We 
 had a fplendid yacht and another made fall to it to ferve as a 
 kitchen ; the dinner began the inftant we went on board and 
 ceafed only when we ftepped a-fhore. It confifted of at Icaft a 
 hundred dilhes in fucceffion, among which were excellent eels, 
 frefli caught in the lake and drefled in a variety of ways ; yet 
 the vvater was clear as cryflal. Vaft numbers of barges were fail- 
 ing to and fro, all gaily decorated with paint and gilding and 
 ftreaming colours; the parties within them apparently all in 
 purfuit of pleafure. The margins of the lake were ftudded 
 with light aereal buildings, among which one of more folidity 
 and of greater extent than the reft was faid to belong to the 
 Emperor. The grounds were enclofed with brick walls and 
 moftly planted with vegetables and fruit trees ; but in fonie 
 there appeared to be coUedions of fuch fhrubs and flowers as are 
 moft efteemed in the country. Among the fruits we got at this 
 place was the Jambo or rofe apple; ami, for the firft time, frefli 
 from the tree, but not yet perfedlly ripe, two fpecies of oranges, 
 the common China and the fmall one ufually called the Man- 
 
 I darin
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 525 
 
 darln orange ; pomgranates, bananas very indifferent and 
 melons equally bad ; apricots far from being equal to thofe of 
 our own country ; a large plumb, refembling the egg plumflif 
 alio indifferent, and peaches that might have been much im- 
 proved by judicious culture; apples and pears that in England 
 we fhould have no hefitatlon in pronouncing execrably bad ; 
 and a fpecies of fruit unknown to all of us which the Chinefe 
 called %ce-tf<.\ of a fvveet fickly tarte when ripe, otherwife mod 
 infufferably aftringent. Some of the gentlemen thought they 
 faw hazel nuts among the fliruberry, but it is more than pro- 
 bable they were miftaken. A few bad grapes were fometimes 
 brought to us, but the party who went from hence to Chu-fan 
 met with abundance of this fruit, and of very good quality, 
 growing upon ftandards erected in the feveral canals and form- 
 ing a fhade under which the barges could pafs. 
 
 Among the moft confpicuous of the ihrubs, on the borders of 
 the lake See-hoo^ was the Hibifcus inutabilis, the Hihifcus SyriacitSy 
 the Syriiiga Vulgaris or common lilac, and the paper mulberry; 
 we obferved alfo a fpecies of Mimofa, a Crottilaria, Cratagtis, 
 Rofa, Rhammis, Sambucus^ yiiniper and the cotton plant. Of 
 fiowers we particularly noticed a large purple-coloured double 
 poppy which, with the Nelumbhim that grew here in all the 
 ponds and a fpecies of p^onia^ appear mod frequently on the 
 large (heets of painted paper ufed for covering the walls of their 
 apartments. A great variety of beautiful balfams were alfo 
 in flower, a fpecies of AmaranthuSy a Xeranthcmum and Guapha- 
 Hum. I mention only fuch plants as caught the eye in paffing, 
 for our Chinefe companions, who had a much better appetite 
 
 for
 
 526 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 for the eels of the lake and other goods things they had taken 
 care to provide than for botany, had no notion of being de- 
 tained by a bufh or a flower. 
 
 The next day Lieutenant Colonel, now General, Benfon, 
 Dodor Glllan, and myfelf, accompanied by a military officer 
 and his orderly, rode over the neck of land to look at the 
 yachts that were preparing for our future journey. As it was rather 
 late before we returned, I propofcd that we fhould pafs through 
 the city as I had done the day before with our condudor Fan, 
 which would fave us half the diftance. The officer perceiving 
 our intention endeavoured to draw us off to the right, but find- 
 ing us perfevere he whifpered the orderly, who immediately 
 puftied forward towards the gate. Aware that the intention 
 of this meafure was to flaut the gate againft us, we fpurred our 
 horfes and followed him, upon which the officer and his orderly 
 fet up fuch a hue and cry that the whole fuburbs were prefently 
 in a ftate of commotion The gates were inftantly fhut and 
 furrounded by a crowd. Within all wasconfufion. Meflage after 
 mtflage was difpatched to the Governor j the gongs were beat 
 and the guards were drawn out in every part of the city. I 
 alTured them there was nothing to fear ; tha we were only 
 three, and had no other delign but to pafs to our yachts. 
 During this time cur mandarin cfivar^ in prefence of the whole 
 populace, was down on his knees in the dirt, firft before one 
 and then another, intreating us to give up the point ; fo mean 
 and defpicable have the maxims of the government made thefe 
 people. At length our friends Van and Cbou^ with the inter- 
 preter and a numerous train of foldiers and attendants, made 
 
 their
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 527 
 
 their appearafice, and pretended to enjoy the joke of three 
 Engllflimen having cau.fed Co much alarm to one of their ftrongcft 
 cities, which at that time had a garrlfon of three thoufand men 
 •within its walls. On expiefling our furprife at fuch unnecef- 
 fary precaution, Van obferved, that our condudtor did not know 
 us fo well as he did, and, as he was refponfible for our fafe re- 
 ■'^urn, he would rather have travelled us all night through the 
 country than brought us among the crowd in the ftreets. 
 When the new viceroy of Canton (who travelled with us from 
 bence) heard of this affair, and underftood from our condudlors 
 that the Englifh found great pleafure in walking and looking 
 about them (a pleafure of which a Chinefe can form no idea) 
 he immediately gave orders that the gentlemen in the train of 
 the Embaffador fhould walk whenever they pleafed without any 
 moleftation. 
 
 In the city of Hang-tchoo-foo^ being particularly famed for its 
 filk-trade, we were not furprized to meet with extenfive fhops 
 and warehoufes; in point of fize and the ftock contained within 
 them they might be faid to vie with the befl: in London. In 
 fome of thefe were not fewer than ten or twelve perfons ferving 
 behind the counter; but in paffing through the whole city not 
 a finge woman was vifible, either within doors or without. 
 The crowd of people, compofed of the other fex, appeared to 
 be little inferior to that in the great ftreets of Pekin. Here, 
 though moftly narrow they had in other refpedls much the ad- 
 vantage of thofe in the capital, being paved with broad fiag- 
 ftones, refembllng the Merceria of Venice [or courts of the 
 Strand ; Cranburn-Alley Is rather too wide for a Chinefe ilreet, 
 
 but
 
 528 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 but tliofe of this city were equally well paved. They appeared to 
 be kept extremely neat and clean. In every {hop were expofed to 
 view filks of different manufactures, dyed cottons and nankins, a 
 great variety of Englifh broad-clcths, chiefly however blue 
 and fcarlet, ufed for winter cloaks, for chair covers and for 
 carpets; and alfo a quantity of peltry intended for the northern 
 markets. The refi; of the houies, in the public ftreets throughfW 
 which \\Q paffed, confifted of butchers and bakers' fhops, fifh- 
 mongers, dealers in rice and other grain, ivory-cutters, dealers 
 in laquered ware, tea-houfes, ccok-fhops, and coffin makers ; 
 the laft of which is a trade of no fmall note in China. The 
 population of the city alone, I fiiould fuppofe, from its extent 
 and appearance, to be not much Inferior to that of Pekin ; and 
 the number of inhabitants in the fuhurbs, with thofe that 
 conftantly refided upon the water, were perhaps nearly equal 
 to thofe within the walls. 
 
 Here our condudlor Sim'ta-g'm took his leave, after having 
 introduced to the EmbafTador the new Viceroy of Canton, who 
 was now to accompany the EmbaflV to the feat of his govern- 
 ment. Ells manners appeared to be no lefs amiable than thofe 
 of the Mlnifter. He had travelled pofl from Pekin and, 
 Vv'lth many affurances on the part of the Emperor of the 
 higheft fatisfaition he had derived from the embaffy, he brought 
 an additional prefent from him to His Majefly, confifling of 
 gold tiffued filks, purfes taken from his own perfon and the 
 Card of Happ'inefs. This is an ornamented piece of paper, 
 neatly folded .up and having in the centre the character foo or 
 happinefs infcribedby the Emperor's own hand, and isconfidered 
 
 as 
 
 I
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 529 
 
 as the ftrongefl: mark a foverelgn of China can give to another 
 prince of his fiicndfliip and afledion. Another card was given 
 to the Embaflador of a fimilar import, as a teftimony of his 
 approbation of the conduit of the embafly, which was further 
 confirmed by a prefent of filks, tea, fiins and other trinkets to 
 every individual of it. 
 
 A few miles beyond the city we again took fhipping on 
 the river Tcheng-tmig-chiang, which might properly be called 
 an eftuary, the tide rifing and falling fix or feven feet at the 
 place of embarkation, which was not very diftant from the 
 Yellow Sea. After feven days of tedious navigation, if drag- 
 ging by main ftrength over a pebbly bottom on which the boats 
 were conftantly aground and againft a rapid ftream, could be 
 fo called, we came to its fource near the city of Tchatig/ati- 
 Jloien. But its banks were not deficient in beautiful views and 
 pidurefque fcenery. The general furface of the country was 
 mountainous and romantic, but well cultivated in all fuch places 
 as would admit the labours of the hufbandman. One city only 
 occurred in the courfe of feven days ; but we pafled numerous 
 villages, fituated in the valleys and the glens between the ridges 
 of mountains ; and fifhermen's huts were conftantly in view. 
 There was here no want of trees, among which the moft com- 
 mon were the tallow-tree and the camphor, cedars, firs and the 
 tall and majeftlc arbor vita^. Groves of oranges, citrons and 
 lemons were abundantly interfperfed in the little vales that 
 floped down to the brink of the river; and few of the huts 
 were without a fmall garden and plantation of tobacco. The 
 larger plains were planted with the fugar-cane. We had thus 
 
 3 Y far
 
 5^9 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 far paffed through the country without having feen a fingle 
 plant of the tea-flirub, but here we found it ufed as a com- 
 mon plant for hedge-rows to divide the gardens and fruit 
 groves, but not particularly cultivated for its leaves. 
 
 At the city of 'Tchattg-fan-Jloien we had again a neck of land 
 to crofs, in order to join the barges that were prepared on ano- 
 ther river falling towards the weftward, by which a connexion 
 was formed with the ufual route from Pekin to Canton, from 
 whence we had deviated at the Yang-tfe-kiang river, on account 
 of fome of the fuite being intended to join the Hindoftan in the 
 harbour of Tchu-fan. We were the lefs forry for this deviation, 
 as it gave us an opportunity of feeing a part of the country over 
 which there is no general communication with the grand route. 
 In paffing this neck of land, on a very fine caufeway, judici- 
 oufly led through the defiles of the mountains, we firft obferved 
 the terrace fyftem of agriculture, fo frequently mentioned in the 
 writings of the miffionaries. The Chinefe feem to entertain 
 a particular averfion againft fowing or planting on Hoping 
 ground and, accordingly, when fuch occurs, they level it into 
 a number of terraces one rifing above the other, which they 
 fupport by ftone walls, if the earth ihould not be thought fuf- 
 ficiently ftrong for the purpofe. The great conveniency of 
 leading the water from the uppermoft to the loweft terrace, 
 without lofing any of its nutritive effeds by a rapid courfe, 
 feems to have fuggefted this mode of preparing the ground. 
 In a hot and dry country, vegetation becomes languid without 
 the command of water ; and I obferved that on the uppermoft 
 terrace there was invariably a tank or refervoir to colle£t the 
 
 1 waters
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 531 
 
 waters falling from the upper parts of the hills. The cxpence 
 of labour, that had evidently been employed on fuch terraces, 
 was fo great as to make any fuitable return to the hufbandman 
 apparently impoflible ; and ftill lefs fo in other places where the 
 hills were completely dug away to the fkeleton rocks, and the 
 foil carried upon the marfliy ground at their feet. 
 
 With all this induftry it might be concluded, from the gene- 
 ral appearance of the people, that they merely gained a fub- 
 fiftence. It was with the utmoft difficulty that the officers of 
 government could procure, in the whole city which we lafl: 
 departed from, a fufficient number of chairs for themfelves and 
 thofe gentlemen of the embafly who preferred to be thus car- 
 ried, and horfes for the reft. For the foldiers, indeed, that 
 compofed his Excellency's guard, they had prepared a fort 
 of open bamboo chair, fixed between two poles and meant to 
 be carried flioulder- height. But the foldiers, fqueezed into 
 tliefe little chairs and elevated in the air, with their feathers 
 and their firelocks, foon perceived that they cut fuch ridiculous 
 figures and that the poor wretches who carried them were in 
 fo miferable a condition, both with regard to their clothing and 
 their habit of body, that, afhamed to be thus dragged along, 
 they prefently difmounted and infifted, in their turn, upon 
 carrying the Chinefe. Our conductors affedted to confider this 
 as a good joke, but others were evidently nettled at it, fup- 
 pofing it might have been meant as a kind of oblique refledion 
 on the indliferent accommodations that had been provided at 
 this place for the Embafiador and his retinue ; which were 
 
 3 Y s however
 
 532 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 however the beft that it was poffible for them to procure by any 
 exertions. 
 
 Having finifhed this land journey, of about twenty-four 
 miles, in the courfe of the day, we lodged at Eu-Jhan-JJjein, a 
 fmall city of mean appearance and the following day embarked 
 on flat-bottomed barges, remarkably long and narrow, on the 
 river Long-Jlna-tong ; but two complete days of heavy rain 
 obliged us to remain quietly at anchor. 
 
 On the 24th of November we dropped down the river, which 
 by the rains was fwelled to an enormous fize and in fome 
 places had overflowed its banks, though in general high and 
 rocky compofed of a deep brown-coloured freeftone. Several 
 rice mills were fo completely inundated, that their thatched 
 roofs were but juft vifible above the furface of the water; 
 others were entirely waflied away ; and the wrecks of them 
 fcattered upon the banks of the river. A veflel of our fquadron 
 was upfet upon the roof of one of thefe mills. 
 
 During two days' fail the furface of the country was hilly 
 and well wooded with camphors, firs, and tallow-trees ; but as 
 we approached the Po-Yang lake, a fmall inland fea, it began 
 to aflume the uniform appearance of an extended marfh, with- 
 out any vifible figns of cultivation : here and there a few fmall 
 huts, {landing on the brink of pools of water, with twice the 
 number of fmall boats floating or drawn up on fhore, fufficiently 
 indicated the occupation of the inhabitants. In this part of the 
 
 country 
 
 {
 
 TRAVELS IN CHI ^ A. 533 
 
 country we had an opportunity of feeing the various means 
 pra£lifed by the Chinefe to catch fifh : rafts and other floating 
 veflels with the fifliing corvorant : boats with moveable planks 
 turning on hinges, and painted fo as to deceive fifties on moon- 
 light nights and entice them to leap out of the water upon the 
 planks ; nets fet in every form ; and wicker baflcets made ex- 
 adly in the fame manner as thofe ufed in Europe. Large 
 gourds and blocks of wood were floating on the water, in order 
 to familiarize the various kinds of water-fowl to fuch objeds, 
 which gave the Chinefe an opportunity, by {ticking their heads 
 Into gourds or earthen pots and keeping their bodies under 
 water, to approach the birds in a gentle manner fufficiently 
 near to take them by the legs and draw them quietly under 
 the water ; a method which is faid to be pradifed by the natives 
 of South America. 
 
 The nearer we approached the great lake Po-yang, the more 
 dreary was the appearance of the country ; and for the diftance 
 of ten miles around it, or at leaft on the fouth and weft fides, 
 was a wild wafte of reeds and rank grafles, fuch as the Scirpus^ 
 Cyperus, and bulrufhes, interrupted only by ftagnant pools of 
 water. Not a human dwelling of any defcription was to be 
 feen. This place may juftly be confidered as the fink of China, 
 into which rivers fall from every point of the compafs. It is 
 fcarcely poffible for the imagination to form to itfelf an idea of 
 a more defolate region than that which furrounds the Po-yang 
 lake. The temperature was fo reduced, by the circumambient, 
 waters, that on the 27th November, with drizzling ftiowers, 
 the thermometer was down to 48" in the forenoon. We failed 
 near four whole days over the fame kind of country and came, 
 
 towards
 
 534 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 towards the evening of the laft, to the city of Nan-tchang-foo, 
 the capital of Klang-fee^ where we obferved from four to five 
 hundred of the revenue veffels lying at anchor. AVe waited at 
 this place a few hours to take in the neceflary provifions and 
 to receive a prefent of filk, tea, and fome other trifles from the 
 viceroy. We were told of a famous temple in the neighbour- 
 hood of the city, but we had no curiofity to go out of the way 
 to fee it, which was dedicated to the man who, as we have al- 
 ready obferved, made his apotbeofts comfortably in his ow^n 
 houfe ; that there was a well belonging to this teinple full of 
 large fnakes, whom the priefts venerate and to whom they ad- 
 monifli the people to make facrlfices, as being children of the 
 dragons which, if not conftantly appeafed by oblations to 
 thefe their offspring, would deftroy the whole world. Thus, in 
 all countries where votaries of fuperftition are to be found, 
 will knaves be met with to take advantage of their weaknefs. 
 The priefts of this temple are faid to have made one obferva- 
 tion, which is perhaps no fuperftition, that when thefe water 
 fnakes appear on the furface, rains and inundations are fure to 
 follow. I took advantage, however, of the (hort delay, to go 
 on board one of the revenue veflTels and to meafure the capa- 
 city of its hold. It was in length 1 15 feet, breadth 15 feet, and 
 depth 6 feet ; the fides ftreight and the width nearly the 
 fame fore and aft ; fo that the burden might fairly be eftimated 
 at 250 tons. Independent, therefore, of the innumerable fmall 
 craft, there were lying before this city 100,000 tons of {hip- 
 ping. 
 
 The city of Nan-tchang-foo is fituated upon the left bank of 
 the river Kan-kiang-ho falling from the fouthward into the 
 
 Po-yang
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. S3S 
 
 Po-yang lake. It was here about five hundred yards in width, 
 againfl: the ftream of which we made a rapid progrefs with a 
 brifk breeze. For the firft fixty miles the country was flat and 
 uncultivated, except in places where we obferved a few fields 
 of rice. But there was no want of population. Towns and 
 villages were conftantly in fight, as were alfo manufa£lories of 
 earthen ware, bricks and tiles. The farther we advanced up 
 the river, the more populous was the country, the more varied 
 and agreeable the furface, and the more extended the cultiva- 
 tion. The banks w^ere Ikirted with large trees, that caft a cool 
 and comfortable fhade on the walks beneath. Of thefe, fome 
 were willows, others camphors, but by far the greateft numi- 
 ber were the Tatig-tchooy a large fpreading tree that threw its 
 branches down to the ground where, like the Ficus Indicus^ of 
 which indeed it was a variety, they took root and became 
 ftems. 
 
 At the city Kei-Jhui-JIjieti, which like moft cities In China 
 offered little worthy of remark, the river divided into two 
 branches ; and at Kin-gan-foo^ a city of the firft order, which 
 we paffed the fame night, by the river contrading fuddenly the 
 current became ftronger and of courfe our progrefs flower. 
 To track the barges it was neceffary again to prefs a number 
 of men ; here, however, it may be obferved, they undertook 
 the fervice with more willingnefs than to the northward. The 
 river meandered through a mountainous and barren country, 
 rich only in pidurefque beauty which, though pleafing to the 
 eye of the artift and the connoifleur, has lefs charms for the 
 philofopher, who finds more real beauties^ to exift in a foil-, 
 
 however
 
 536 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 however tame and uniform, that can be rendered fubfervlent to 
 the ufes of man. 
 
 On the 3d of November we approached that part of the river 
 which, on account of the numerous fliip-wrecks that have hap- 
 pened there, is held in no fmall degree of dread by the Chinefe. 
 They call it the Shee-pa-tan, or the eighteen cataradls : which 
 are torrents formed by ledges of rock running acrofs the bed of 
 the river. They have not, however, any thing very terrific in 
 them, not one being half fo dangerous as the fall at London 
 bridge about half-tide. But the Chinefe have no great dexteri- 
 ty in the management of their veflels. They are fo eafiiy 
 alarmed, that they frequently mifcarry through timidity, when 
 a little recolle£lion and refolution would have fecured them 
 fuccefs. The mountains between which the river was hemmed 
 in were covered with forefts of the larch fir; the glens and 
 vallies abounded with the bamboo, of which we here obferved 
 two fpecies, one the fame that is common in other parts of the 
 Eaft, and the fecond much fmaller in its growth, fehlom exceed- 
 ing the height of ten feet ; and the fibres of its fmall ftem are 
 more hard and folid than thofe of the other fpecies. The Chi- 
 nefe ufe it in the finer parts of fuch houfehold furniture and 
 other articles as are conftru<3:ed of bamboo. From the margins 
 of the river to the feet of the forefts the lower parts of the 
 mountains were covered with coppice, among which the moft 
 common flirub bore a clofe refemblance to the tea plant, and 
 accordingly the Chinefe called it the Tcha-isuha^ or flower of 
 tea. It was the Camellia Sefanqua of Thunberg, to which they 
 had given the fame name (not being very nice in fpecific diftinc- 
 
 tlons)
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 m 
 
 tions, as to the Camellia Japcnica of Linna:us. From the nut 
 of the former not unlike to, though fomewhat fmaller than, the 
 chefnut, a very pleafant oil is exprefled and ufed for fimilar pur- 
 pofes to the Florence oil in Europe. 
 
 This intricate part of the river, where innumerable pointed 
 rocks occurred, fome above, fome even with, and others juft 
 below the furface of the water, required two long days' fail with 
 a fair breeze ; and the falls became more rapid and dangerous 
 the f;\rther we advanced. At the fifteenth catarad we per- 
 ceived two or three vefTels lying againft the rocks with their 
 fiat-bottoms uppermoft ; a terrible fight for our bargemen who, 
 like the countryman in the fable, inftead of applying the flioul- 
 der to the wheel, began to implore the afliftance of the river 
 god by founding the gong, in order to roufe his attention' 
 and by regaling his olfa(Sory nerves with the fmoke of fandal- 
 wood matches ; fo that had we been dropping down the ftream, 
 inftead of going againft it, there was every reafon to apprehend 
 that our barge would have fbared a fimilar fate ; for it received 
 many a gentle rub againft the rocks. 
 
 The appearance of the country in the neighbourhood of the 
 catarads was extremely beautiful. The tranfparency of the 
 ftream, the bold rocks finely fringed with wood, and the varied" 
 forms of the mountains called to mind thofe delightful ftreams 
 that are difcharged from the lakes of the northern' counties of 
 England. Like thefe too, the Kan-kiang-bo abounded with 
 fifti, not however with the delicious trout but one of much 
 lefs flavour, a fpecles of perch. Great numbers of rafts were 
 
 3 z floating
 
 538 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 floating on the river with the fiftiing corvorant, and we obferved 
 that he feldom dived without fuccefs. For the whole diftance 
 of three days' journey, the hilly country bordering on the 
 river produced very little but the Camellia Sefanqua^ which ap- 
 peared to be every where of fpontaneous growth. 
 
 We halted on the 6th of December, late in the evening, be- 
 fore the city of Kan-tchoo-foo^ which is remarkable for nothing 
 that I could learn except for the great quantity of varnifti trees 
 the Rhus vcrnix I fuppofe, that are cultivated in the neigh- 
 bourhood. In the courfe of the journey we had picked up two 
 varieties of the tea plant, taken out of the gr.ound and potted 
 by our own gardener ; and which, being in good growing or- 
 der, were intended to be fent to Bengal as foon as occaCion 
 might ferve after our arrival at Canton. Knowing we fhould 
 be hurried away, as ufual, in the morning and wifhing to pro- 
 cure a few young plants of the varnifh tree, I prevailed on our 
 good friend Yan-ta-gin to difpatch fome perfon for that pur- 
 pofe, to add to thofe of the tea plant and the Camellia Sen/on- 
 qua. Van made application to the men in office at this place, 
 with the beft intention of ferving us, but thefe gentry, either 
 conceiving that their compliance might be treafon to the ftate, 
 or elfe, in the true fpirit of the nation, determined to play a 
 trick upon the ftrangers, certainly procured the plants and 
 fent them on board in pots, juft as we were departing the next 
 morning. In a fhort time they all began to droop, the leaves 
 withered and, on examination, it was found that not a fingle 
 plant among them had the leaft portion of a root, being nothing 
 more than fmall branches of trees which, from the nature 
 
 of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 535 
 
 of the wood, were not likely nor indeed ever intended to 
 ftrike root. 
 
 From Kan-tchoo-foo the face of the country became more uni- 
 form and fuitable for the labours of agriculture ; and, accord- 
 ingly, we found a very fmall portion of it unoccupied. Wheat 
 about fix inches above ground and extenfi ve plantations of the fu- 
 garcane fit for cutting, were the chief articles under cultivation: 
 and the farther we advanced to the fouthward, the more abundant 
 and extended were thofe of the latter. The canes were remarkably 
 juicy and their joints from fix to nine inches in length. To 
 exprefs the juice from them and convert it into a confident 
 mafs, temporary mills were ereded in different places among 
 the plantations. The procefs was very fimple. A pair of cy- 
 linders, fometimes of ftone but more generally of hard wood, 
 placed vertically, were put in motion by oxen or bufFalos and 
 from the foot of thefe the exprefled juice was conveyed, by a 
 tube carried under the floor, into a boiler that was funk in the 
 gro"und at the end of the apartment ; where it was boiled to a 
 proper degree of confiftence the exprefled canes ferving as 
 fuel. Though unacquainted with the procefs of refining fugar, 
 the natural tendency that the fyrup poflTeflTes of forming itfelf 
 into cryftals in cooling had fuggefted to them the means of 
 obtaining very fine and pure fugar-candy which, in the market 
 of Canton, is fold in a pulverized ftate as white as the beft re- 
 fined fugar. The coarfe fyrup, ufually called treacle or 
 molafles, and the dregs, are not employed, as in the Weft. 
 India ifiands, in the diftillatlon of rum, but are fometimes 
 thrown into the dill with fermented rice, in order to procure a 
 
 3- z 2 better
 
 540 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 better kind o{ Seau-tcboo or burnt wine ; tke chief ufe, however, 
 of the molafFes is to preferve fruits and other vegetable produc- 
 tions ; and particularly the roots of ginger, a conferve of which 
 the Chinefe are remarkably fond. 
 
 The bed of the river having, in the lapfe of ages, fettled to 
 the depth of twenty, thirty, or even forty feet below the general 
 level of the country, it became neceffary to employ fome artifi- 
 cial means of obtaining the water for the purpofe, of irrigation. 
 The contrivance made ufe of to raife it to the height of the 
 banks was fimple and ingenious ; and from hence it was con- 
 veyed in fmall channels to every part of the cane plantations. 
 Of the ufeful machine employed for this purpofes confift- 
 ing of a bamboo wheel which I underftand has been adopted 
 in America, a view and fedtion may be feen among the plates 
 accompanying Sir George Staunton's authentic account of the 
 embafly. I fhall therefore content myfelf with obferving in 
 this place that, the axis excepted, it is entirely conftrufted of 
 bamboo, without the afliftance of a fmgle nail or piece" of iron ; 
 that the expence of making it is a mere trifle ; that in its ope- 
 rations it requires no attendance, and that it will lift, to the 
 height of forty feet, one hundred and fifty tons of water 
 in the courfe of twenty-four hours *. Every plantation near 
 this part of the river had its wheel and fome of them two ; 
 
 • The water-wheels ftill ufed in Syria differ only from thofe of China, by 
 having loofe buckets fufpended at the circumference, inftcad of fixed tubes. ''Ihe 
 " whfcls of Hama," fays Volney, " are thirty-two feet in diameter. Troughs are 
 ♦' fattened to the circumference, and fo difj-ofed as to fall in the river, and when 
 *• they reach the vertex of the wheel, difcharge the water into a refervoir." 
 
 x and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 541 
 
 and the water ra'ifed by them was fometimes conveyed at once 
 into the plots of canes and fometimes into refervoirs, out of 
 which it was afterwards pumped, as occafion might require, by 
 the chain-pump and carried to thofe places where it might be 
 wanted along fmall channels coated with clay. 
 
 The women of this province were more robuft than ordinary 
 and well fuited, by their ftrength and mufcular powers, to en- 
 dure the hard labour and drudgery of the field, which feemed 
 to be their chief employment. This fort of labour, however, 
 might be the caufe, rather than the confequence, of their extra- 
 ordinary ftrength and mafculine form. The habitual ufe of 
 hard labour, to which the women are here brought up, fits 
 them beft to become the wives of the peafantry in the neigh- 
 bouring provinces ; and accordingly, when a Chinefe farmer is 
 defirous of purchafing a working wife he makes his offers in 
 Kiang-fce. It was here that we faw a woman yoked literally by 
 traces to a plough, whilft the hufband or mafter had the lighter 
 tafk of holding it by one hand and drilling in the feed with the 
 other. The exertion of labour together with the conftant ex- 
 pofure to the weather, in a climate fituated under the twenty- 
 fifth to the twenty-ninth parallel of latitude, have contributed 
 to render more coarfe and forbidding the features of the fair fex. 
 oi Kiang-Jce^ in the formation of which, indeed, Nature liad not 
 been too bountiful. Like the women of the Malay nation, with 
 whom they moft probably are derived from one common ftock, 
 they fixed their ftrong black hair clofe to the head by two metal 
 fkewefs. Their drefs, in other refpeds, was the fame as that 
 of the men, and like thefe they wore itraw fandals on their feet. 
 
 Thus
 
 542 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Thus far, by avoiding the pain attendant on fafliionable feet, 
 and enjoying the free ufe of their limbs, they might be faid to 
 have the advantage of the city ladies. It was, indeed, obferved 
 that even fuch as were not employed in the labours of the field, 
 but kept conftantly at home for domeftic purpofes, were, in this 
 province, equally exempted from the barbarous fafhion of cramp- 
 ing the feet. 
 
 On the 9th we again entered a narrow defile and here witli 
 difficulty the vefTels were forced along againfl: a ftrong current ; 
 and over the pebbly bottom, againfl: which they were conftantly 
 ftriking. At Nan-gan-foo, where we arrived in the evening, 
 the river ceafes to be navigable. Indeed the whole of the three 
 laft days' navigation might, with propriety, in England be 
 called only a trout ftream; upon which no nation on earth, 
 except the Chinefe, would have conceived the idea of floating 
 any kind of craft ; they have however adapted, in an admirable 
 manner, the form and conftru£lion of their vefTels to the 
 nature and depth of the navigation ; towards the upper part of 
 the prefent river they drew only, when moderately laden, 
 about fix inches of water. They were from fifty to feventy 
 feet in length, narrow and flat-bottomed, a little curved, fo 
 that they took the ground only in the middle point. Yet, ia 
 feveral places, the water was fo (hallow that they could not be 
 dragged over until a channel had been made, by removing the 
 ftones and gravel with iron rakes. The length of this river, 
 from its fource at Na7t-gan-foo to the Po-yang lake, is nearly 
 three hundred Englifli miles. The banks in the low part of 
 the province oi Kiaug-fee confifted of a deep foil of black earth, 
 
 fupported
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 543 
 
 fupported on clay of a dark red or brown colour; denoting the 
 prefence of iron. The mountains were chiefly of red fand- 
 flone; and the foil of the hills, producing the Camellia, was a 
 brown loam mixed with particles of mica. 
 
 "We had now before us another land-journey, over the fteep 
 and lofty mountain of Me-lin, whofe fummit is the boundary 
 between the two provinces of Kia/ig-fee and ^iian-tung ; on 
 the fouth fide of which commences the river Pei-kiang-ho that 
 flows by the port of Canton ; and whofe mouth is familiarly- 
 known in Europe by the name of the Bocca Tigris, Ihe 
 afcent of this mountain, which fome undertook on horfeback. 
 and others in chairs, was made by a well-paved road, carried 
 in a zig-zag manner over the very higheft point, where a pafs 
 was cut to a confiderable depth through a granite rock ; a work 
 that had evidently not been aecompliflied with any moderate 
 degree of labour or expence. In the middle of the pafs was 
 a military port, much flronger than ordinary, and it was de- 
 fended or, more corredly fpeaking, it was fupplied with two- 
 old pieces of cannon, that had been caft, in all probability, near 
 two hundred years ago, perhaps by the Jefuits who firft taught 
 them an art which they feem already to have forgotten or 
 ncgletled. 
 
 The view from the fummit towards the fouth ward, over the 
 province of Canton, was as rich and enchanting as that on the 
 oppofite fide was dreary and barren. In defcending the gradual 
 flope of about twelve miles, before the mountain had blended 
 with the general furface of the country, t^ere. was a conftant 
 
 fucceffion
 
 544 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 fucccflion of dwellings ; fo that this whole dlftance might almoft 
 he confidered as one continued ftreet. Half of the buildings 
 confifted, however, of places of convenience to which pafTen- 
 gers might retire to obey the calls of nature ; and the doors, or 
 rather the openings into fuch eredions, were always invitingly 
 fronting the flrect. To each fingle dwelling, whether alone or 
 joined with others, was annexed a fabric of this defcription. 
 Kach was conftrufted upon a large terrace ciftern, lined with 
 fuch materials that no abforption could take place ; and draw 
 and other dry rubbifh are thrown in by the owners, from time 
 to time, to prevent evaporation. In one of the ftreets of Can- 
 ton is a row of buildings of this kind which, in fo warm a 
 climate, is a dreadful nuifance ; but the confideration of pre- 
 ferving that kind of manure, v^'hich by the Chinefe is confidered 
 as fuperior for forcing vegetation to all others, has got the bet- 
 ter of both decency and prudence. 
 
 All the paffengers we met upon this road were laden with 
 jars of oil exprefled from the Camellia. In the courfe of 
 eighteen miles, which is about the diftance from the fummit 
 of Me-Un to the city of Nun-Jheun-foo , we pafled at leaft a 
 thoufand perfons on their way to Nan-gan-foo^ each bearing ten 
 or twelve gallons of oil and among thefe were a number of 
 women. 
 
 Having now traverfed five of the provinces of China, that 
 are confidered among the moft populous and produdive in the 
 empire, a general fketch may be drawn, by taking a retro- 
 fpedlve view, of the ftate of agriculture and the condition of 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 545 
 
 the people; of their habhations, drefs, diet and means of 
 fubfiftence ; and fome conclufion drawn as to the population 
 of the country. 
 
 It was a remark too fingular to efcape notice that, except in 
 the neighbourhood of the Po-yaiig lake, the peafantry of the 
 province in which the capital Hands were more miferable, 
 their houfes more mean and wretched, and their lands in a 
 worfe ftate of cultivation, than in any other part of the route — 
 a remark which alfo agrees with the accounts given by the 
 Dutch embafly of that part of Pe-tche-leCy on the fouth-weft 
 fide of the capital, through which they pafled. Four mud 
 walls covered over with a thatch of reeds, or the ftraw of millet, 
 or the flcms of holcus, compofe their habitations ; and they 
 are moft commonly fiirrounded with clay walls, or with a fence 
 made of the ftrong ftems of the Holctis Sorghum. A partition of 
 matting divides the hovel into two apartments; each of which has 
 a fmall opening in the wall to admit the air and light ; but one 
 door generally ferves as an entrance, the clofure of which is 
 frequently nothing more than a ftrong mat. A blue cotton 
 jacket and a pair of trovvfers, a ftraw hat and ftioes of the fame 
 material, conftitute the drefs of the majority of the people. 
 Matting of reeds or bamboo, a cylindrical pillow of wood co- 
 vered with leather, a kind of rug or felt blanket made of the 
 hairy wool of the broad-tailed flieep, not fpun and woven but 
 heat together as in the procefs for making hats, and fometimes 
 a mattrefs ftuffed with wool, hair, or ftraw, conftitute their 
 bedding. Two or three jars, a few bafons of earthen-ware of 
 the coarfeft kind, a large iron pot, a frying-pan and a portable 
 
 4 A ftove,
 
 546 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 flove, are the chief articles of furniture. Chairs and tables are 
 not neceflary ; both men and women fit on their heels ; and in 
 this pofture they furround the great iron pot, with each a bafon 
 In his hands, when they take their meals. The poverty of 
 their food was fufficiently indicated by their meagre appear- 
 ance. It confifts chiefly of boiled rice, millet, or other grain, 
 with the addition of onions or garlic, and mixed fometimes 
 with a few other vegetables that, by way of relifh, are fried in 
 rancid oil, extraded from a variety of plants, fuch as the SeJJa- 
 miimy Brajica oriaital'is^ Cytijus Cadjan, a Ipecies of DoUchos, 
 and, among others, from the fame fpecies ol Ricinm or Palma- 
 Chri/li, from which the Caftor is drawn, and ufed only in 
 Europe as a powerful purgative. Its draftlc qualities may 
 probably be diminilhed by applying lefs preffure in extrading 
 the oil, or by habit, or by ufmg it frefli, as it does not appear 
 that the Chinefe fuffer any inconvenience in its application to 
 culinary purpofeSo As well as I could underftand, the feeds 
 were iirft bruifed and then boiled in water, and the oil that 
 floated on the furface was fkimmed off. Our Florence oil they 
 affeded not to admire having, as they liiid, no tafte. The 
 Chinefe, like the inhabitants of the South of Europe, feem to 
 attach a higher value on oils, in proportion as age has given to 
 them a higher degree of rancidity. 
 
 Filli of any kind, in this part of the country, is a great rarity ; 
 few are caught in the rivers of Pe-tche-lce, We met with none 
 in the whole province, except at Tiai-ftng and in the capital, 
 whofe market, no doubt, like that of London, draws to its 
 centre the choice produds of a very extenfive circuit. Salt and 
 
 dried
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 547 
 
 dried fifli, it is true, are brought from the fouthward as articles 
 of commerce, but the poor peafatitry cannot afford to purchafe 
 them for general ufe. They obtain them only fometlmes by 
 bartering millet or vegetables in exchange. A morfel of pork to 
 relllh their rice is almoft the only kind of meat that the poor can 
 afford to tafle. They have little rnllk and neither butter, nor 
 cheefe, nor bread; articles of nourlfhment to which, with potatoes, 
 the peafantry of Europe owe their chief fupport. Boiled rice, in- 
 deed, and not bread, is conlidered as an article of the firft ne- 
 cefllty, the ftalT of life in China. Hence the monofyllable /^;?, 
 which fignifies boiled rice, enters into every compound that 
 implies eating; thus tc/je-/lv!j the name of a meal in general, is 
 to eat rice; breakfifl: Is called the tfao-fon or morning rice, 
 and fupper tlie ouaii-fjH or evening rice. Their principal and 
 indeed their beft beverage is bad tea, boiled over and over again 
 as long as any bitter remains in the leaves, taken without milk 
 or fugar, or any other ingredient except, in cold weather, a 
 little ginger. In this weak flate the only purpofe it feems to 
 anfwer is that of carrying down the fedlment of muddy wa- 
 ter that abounds in all the flat provinces of China, which the 
 leaves of tea (as I fancy thofe of any other plant would) are 
 found to do. Thefe poor creatures, however, .are inftrudled 
 by popular opinion to afcribe to it many extraordinary qua- 
 lities *. 
 
 It 
 
 • The fimplc Ivillinjj of the w.iter indeed contiibutes greatly to the quick dcpofi- 
 tion of earthy particles, which may have been one caufe of the univerfal pradlce of 
 drinking every thing warm in China. They were furprifed to fee our foldiers and 
 fervants drinking the water of the Pei-ho cold, and told them it was very bad for 
 the- ftomach and bowels. This complaint, in fad, attacked ahnofl all the inferior 
 
 4 A 3 part
 
 548 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 It would require a more familiar acquaintance with the 
 people and a longer refidence among them, than was allowed 
 to us, to explain the true reafon of fuch real poverty among 
 the peafantry in the vicinity of the capitalr Perhaps, indeed, 
 it may be owing, in a great degree, to the proximity of the 
 court, which in all countries has the efFedi: of drawing together 
 a crowd of people to confume the products of the foil, without 
 contributing any portion of labour towards their produdion. 
 The encouragement that is here given to idlenefs and diflipa- 
 tlon is but too apt to entice the young peafantry in the neigh- 
 bourhood from their houfes, and thus rob the country of its beft 
 hands. The foil, likewife, near the capital is barren and fandy, 
 producing few fupplies beyond the wants of the feveral tenants; 
 and all other neceflaries of life not raifed by them muft be pur- 
 chafed extravagantly dear. It is, indeed, furprizlng how this 
 immenfe city, faid to contain three millions of inhabitants, is 
 contrived to be fupplied at any rate, confidering the very fterile 
 and unprodudtive ftate of the country for many miles around 
 it. It might not, however, be a matter of lefs aftonifhment to 
 a Chinefe, nor lefs difficult for him to conceive, in what man- 
 ner our own capital receives its daily fupplies, efpecially after 
 he had obferved that there is not a angle road, by which Lon- 
 
 part of the embafTy, which Doftor Gillan did not hefitate to afcribe to the great im- 
 purity of the water. But the Chinefe argued the point with the Doftor with re- 
 gard to taking it cold, afking him why all the fluids of the body were warm, if na- 
 ture had intended us to drink water and other liquids in a cold ftate ! They feemed 
 to have forgotten that all the warm-blooded animals, except man^ muft neceflarily 
 drink cold water. 
 
 V don
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 549 
 
 don can be approached, that is not carried over vaft tra£ls of un- 
 cultivated commons and wafte grounds. 
 
 The vallles of Tartary furnifli beeves and broad-tailed fheep 
 for Pekin, and grain is brought by water from every part of 
 the country, of which the government takes the precaution to 
 lay up in ftore a fufficient quantity for a twelvemonth's con- 
 fumption. Of animal food, pork is moftly confumed. Few 
 peafants are without their breed of hogs ; thefe animals, indeed, 
 are likevvife kept in large cities, where they become public 
 nuifances. Bad beef in Pekin fells for about fix-pence the 
 pound ; mutton and pork eight-pence ; lean fowls and ducks 
 from two to three fhillings ; eggs are generally about one penny 
 each ; fmall loaves of bread that are boiled in fteam, without 
 yeaft or leaven, are about four-pence a pound ; rice fells ufually 
 at three-halfpence or two-pence the pound ; wheat flour at 
 two-pence halfpenny or three-pence ; fine tea from twelve to 
 thirty fhillings a pound ; that of the former price, at leaft fuch 
 as was procured clandeftinely for us, not drinkable, and the 
 latter not near fo good as that of about fix fhillings in Lon- 
 don *. There are, indeed, plenty of tea-houfes in and near 
 the capital, where the labouring people may purchafe their cup 
 of tea for two fmall copper coin (not quite a farthing) but it is 
 miferably bad. A tolerable horfe and a man-flave are ufually 
 about the fame price, being from fifteen, to twenty ounces of 
 
 * As thefe teas however were purchiifedby Chinefe, 1 have no doubt they refervcd 
 to themfelves a very large profit on the commiffioii, for it is fcarcely poiUble that this 
 article, the growth and produce of the middle provinces, fliould bear a price fo far 
 beyond what the very beft fells for in London* 
 
 1 filver.
 
 550 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 filver. The article of drefs worn by the common people is not 
 very expenfive. The peafantry are invariably clad in cotton ; 
 and this article is the produce of mod of the provinces. The 
 complete dj'efs of a peafant is about fifteen fhillings ; of a com- 
 mon tradefman three pounds ; an officer of government's com- 
 mon drefs ten pounds ; of ceremony about thirty pounds ; and 
 if enriched with embroidery and gold and filver tilTue, between 
 two and three hundred pounds : a pair of black fatin boots 
 twenty flaillings ; and a cap or bonnet about the fame fum. 
 The price of labour, however, and particularly in Pekin, bears 
 no fort of proportion to the price of provifions. A mechanic 
 in this city thinks hitnfelf well paid if he gets a Ihilling a-day. 
 A common weaver, joiner, or other tradefman earns a bare 
 fubfiftence for his family ; and the beft fervants may be hired 
 for an ounce of filver a-month. Many are glad to give their 
 fervices in exchange for their fubfiftence, without any confi- 
 deration in hard money. Tobacco being an indifpenfable arti- 
 cle for all ranks of every age and fex bears of courfe a high 
 price in the capital. It is fingular enough, that this plant (hould 
 have found its way into every part of the world, among favage 
 as well as civilized nations, even into the deferts of Africa, 
 where it was found in conftant ufe among the Boofhuanas, a 
 people, till very lately, totally unknown ; and It is equally fin- 
 gular, that an herb of fo dilagreeable a tafte fhould, by habit, 
 obtain an afcendency fo far over the appetite, as not eafily to 
 be relinquifhed. 
 
 The climate of the northern provinces is unfavourable to the 
 poor peafantry. The fummers are fo warm that they go 
 
 nearly
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 551 
 
 nearly naked and the winters fo fevere that, what with their 
 poor and fcanty fare, their want of fuel, clothing, and even 
 fhelter, thoufands are faid to perifh from cold and hunger. In 
 fuch a condition the ties of nature fometimes yield to felf-pre- 
 fcrvatlon, and children are fold to fave both the parent and ofF- 
 fpring from perifhing for want ; and infants become a prey to 
 hopelefs indigence. We have feen in the notes taken by the 
 gentleman in the Dutch embafly, how low the temperature is 
 at Pekin in the winter months ; and they have no coals nearer 
 than the mountains of Tartary, which are all brought on the 
 backs of dromedaries ; of courfe, they are extravagantly dear. 
 In fadl, they are fcarcely ever burned pure, but are crumbled 
 to duft and mixed up with earth, in which ftatc they give out 
 a very llrong hear, but no flame, and are fuitable enough for 
 their fmall clofe ftoves. 
 
 Although it is a principle of the Chinefe government to ad- 
 mit of no diftinftions among its fubjefts, except thofe that learn- 
 ing and office confer ; and although the moft rigid fumptuary 
 laws have been impofed to check that tendency to fhew and 
 fplendor, which wealth is apt to alTume ; and to bring as much 
 as poflible oh a level, at leaft in outward appearance, all condi- 
 tions of men ; yet, with regard to diet, there is a wider differ- 
 ence perhaps between the rich and the poor of China, than in 
 any other country. That wealth which, if permitted, would 
 be expended in flattering the vanity of its poileflTors, is now ap- 
 plied in the purchafe of dainties to pamper the appetite. Their 
 famous Gin-fing^ a name fignifying the life of man (the Panax 
 quinqucfoUuvi of Linnseus) on account of its fuppofed invigo- 
 rating
 
 552 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 rating and aphrodifiac qualities was, for a length of time, 
 weighed againft gold. The finewy parts of flags and other ani- 
 mals, with the fins of fharks, as produdive of the" fame eftedls, 
 are purchafed by the wealthy at enormous prices : and the nefts 
 that are conftrud:ed by fmall fvvallows on the coafts of Cochin- 
 china, Cambodia, and other parts of the Eaft, are dearer even 
 than fome kinds of Gi//^^^. Moft of the plants that grow on 
 the fea-fliore are fuppofed to poflefs an invigorating quality, 
 and are, therefore, in conftant ufe as pickles or preferves, or fim- 
 ply dried and cut into foups in the place of other vegetables. 
 The leaves of one of thefe, apparently a fpecies of that genus of 
 fea-weed called by botanifts fuciis^ after being gathered, are 
 rteeped in frefli water and hung up to dry. A fmall quantity 
 of this weed boiled in water gives to it the confiftence of a 
 jelly, and when mixed with a little fugar, the juice of an orange, 
 or other fruit, and fet by to cool, I know of no jelly more agree- 
 able or refrefliing. The leaf is about fix inches long, narrow 
 and pointed, deeply ferrated, and the margins ciliated ; the 
 middle part fmooth, femi-tranfparent, and of a leathery confift- 
 ence. The Chinefe call it Chin-chou. 
 
 The great officers of ftate make ufe of thefe and various 
 other gelatinous viands for the purpofe of acquiring, as they 
 fuppofe, a proper degree of corpulency *, which is confidered 
 
 by 
 
 • An old Frenchman {Cojfigny) but a dilciple of the new fchoo!, has found out 
 that the Chinefe are in pofletlion of a new fcience, the exiftence of which was not 
 even fufpefted by the enlightened nations of Europe. As he has the merit of mak- 
 ing this wonderful difcovery, it is but fair to announce it in his own words : " Je 
 " penfe que nous devrions prendre chez eux (les Chinois) les premiers elemens de la 
 
 «' fper-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 553 
 
 by them as refpeflable and impofing upon the multitude ; of 
 a great portion of whom it may be obferved, as Falftaff faid 
 of his company, " No eye hath (een fuch fcare-crows." It 
 would be rare to find, among the commonalty of China, one 
 to compare with a porter-drinking citizen or a jolly-looking 
 farmer of England. They are indeed naturally of a flender 
 habit of body and a fickly appearance, few having the bliifli 
 of health upon their cheeks. The tables of the great are co- 
 vered with a vafl: variety of diflies, confifting moftly of ftews 
 of fifli, fowl and meat, feparately and jointly, with proper pro- 
 portions of vegetables and fauces of different kinds. Their 
 beverage confifts of tea and whifke/. In fipping this ardent fpi- 
 rit, made almoft boiling hot, eating paftry and fruits, and fmok- 
 ing the pipe, they fpend the greateft part of the day, beginnin"' 
 from the moment they rife and continuing till they go to bed. In 
 hot weather they fleep in the middle of the day,attendcd by two fer- 
 vants, one to fan away the flies and the other to keep them cool. 
 
 The province of Pe-tche-lee embraces an extent of climate 
 from 38'^ to 40^° of north latitude. The temperature is very 
 
 " fpermatologle, fcience toiite nonvellc pour I'Europe, fcicnce qui intereffe I'humanite 
 " en general, en liii procuraflt des joiiifTances qui I'attachent a fon exiftence, en en- 
 " trctenant la fantc et la vigeur, en rcparant I'.ibus des exces, encontribuant a I'aug- 
 " mentation de la population. II feroit digne de la follicitude des gouvernemcns de 
 " s'occuper des recherches qui pourroient donner des connoiflances fur une fcience 
 " a peine foup9onnee des peuples ^claires de I'Europe." He then announces his 
 knowledge in preparing " des petites paftilles qui font aphrodifiaques et qui convien- 
 " nent fur- tout aux veillards, et a ceux qui out fait des exces :" and he concluded 
 with the mortifying; intclligenci; th it he is not permitted to reveal the important 
 fecret, " qji interelfe I'humanite cu general." 
 
 4 a various.
 
 554 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 various. In fummer Fahrenheit's thermometer is generally 
 above 80° during the day, fometimes exceeding 90° ; and, in 
 the middle of winter, it remains for many days together below 
 the freezing point, defcending occafionally to zero or o. But 
 it generally enjoys a clear pure atmofpbere throughout the whole 
 year. 
 
 In the pradical part of agriculture, in this province, we ob- 
 ferved little to attradl attention or to commend. The farmer 
 gets no more than one crop off the ground in a feafon, and 
 this is generally one of the fpecies of millets already mentioned, 
 or holcus, or wheat ; but l,'.ey fometimes plant a dolichos or 
 bean between the rows of wheat, which ripens after the latter 
 is cut down. They have no winter crops, the hard frofty wea- 
 ther ufually fetting in towards the end of November and con- 
 tinuing till the end of March. The three different modes of 
 fowing grain, by drilling, dibbling, and broadcaft, are all in 
 life but chiefly the firft, as being the moft expeditious and 
 the crop moft eafy to be kept free from weeds ; the laft is rarely 
 pradtifed on account of the great wafte of feed ; and dibbling is 
 ufed only in fmall patches of ground near the houfes when they 
 aim at neatnefs. The foil, being in general loofe and fandy 
 and free from ftones, is worked without much difficulty, but 
 it feemed to require a good deal of manure ; and this neceflfary 
 article from the paucity of domeftic animals is extremely fcarce. 
 Very few iheep or cattle were obferved, yet there was an abun- 
 dance of land that did not feem for many years to have felt the 
 ploughfhare. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 555 
 
 The draught cattle moll generally in ufe are oxen, mules, 
 and afles. Horfes are fcarce and of a fmall miferable breed, 
 incapable of much work; a remark, indeed, which will apply to 
 every province of the empire; though thofe of Tartary, which 
 compofed the Emperor's ftud, according to the Embalfador's 
 defcription, were not wanting in point of fize, beauty, or fpirit. 
 No pains, however, are beftowed to effect, nor do they feem 
 to be fenfible of the advantages to be derived from, an improve- 
 ment in the breed of cattle. Nor indeed is any care taken of 
 the bad breed which they already poffefs. It would be fup- 
 pofed that, where a regular eftablifliment of cavalry is kept up 
 to an amount that fccms almoil incredible, fome attention 
 would be paid to the nature and condition of their horfes. 
 This, however, is not the cafe. A Scotch poney, wild from the 
 mountains, which has never felt the teeth of a currycomb and 
 whofe tail and mane are clotted together with dirt, is in fit 
 condition to join a regiment of Tartar cavalry. Thofe kept 
 by men in office are equally negleded. The Chinefe have no 
 idea that this noble animal requires any attention beyond that 
 of giving him his food ; and of this, in general, he receives a 
 very fcanty portion. 
 
 That part of the province of Shan-tiing through which we 
 travelled exhibited a greater variety of culture than Pe-tche-lee ; 
 but the furface of the northern parts efpecially was equally 
 uniform. The foil, confiding generally of mud and (lime 
 brought apparently by the inundations of rivers, contained not 
 a fingle pebble. The feafon was too late to form any eftimate 
 of the crops produced upon the immenfe plains oi Sban-tung ;. 
 
 4 B 2 but
 
 556 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 but the young crops of wheat, {landing at this time (the middle 
 of Odober) a few inches above the ground, looked extremely 
 well. Little wafte ground occurred, except the footpaths and 
 the channels which ferved as divifion marks of property. Some 
 attempts indeed were here made at the divifion of grounds by 
 hedge-rows, but with little fuccefs ; the plant they had adopted, 
 the Palvia Chrijl't^ was ill-fuited for fuch a purpofe. As we ad- 
 vanced to the fouthward, in this province, the proportion of 
 wheat under cultivation diminifhed, and its place was employed 
 by plantations of cotton, whofe pods were now ripe and burft- 
 ing. The plant was low and poor in growth, but the branches 
 "were laden with pods. Like the wheat it was planted or dib- 
 bled in rows. The cotton produced the fecond year was faid 
 to be confidered as equally good with that of the firft, but be- 
 ing found to degenerate the third year, it was then rooted out 
 and the ground prepared for frefh feed *. 
 
 The 
 
 * In the tenth volume of a very extenfive agricultural work, is detailed the whols 
 procefs of cultivating the cotton from the feed to the web. The author obferves, 
 " The cotton in its raw ftate affords a light and pleafant lining for clothes ; the feed 
 " yields an oil, which, being exprefled from them, the remainder is ferviceable as 
 " manure ; the capfules or pods, being hard and woody, are ufej for firing, and the 
 " leaves afford nourifhment to cattle, fo that every part of the vegetable may be ap- 
 " propriated to fome ufeful purpofe. 
 
 " The foil mod favourable to this plant is a white fand, with a fmall proportion of 
 " clay or loam. The plant affeiSs an elevated open fituation, and cannot endure tow 
 " marfhy grounds. 
 
 *' After all the cotton pods are gathered, the remaining ftems and branches 
 '• fhould be cleared away without lofs of time, and the ground carefully ploughed up, 
 •' to e.xpofe a new furface to the air and renew the vigour of the foil. 
 
 " When the plough has paffed through the ground three times, the earth fhould be 
 •• raked level, that the wind may not raife or dry up any part of it. 
 
 " When
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 557 
 
 The fouthern parts of Shan iu?ig sltq compofed of mountains 
 and fwamps. Here, lakes of various n^agnitudes occur and 
 large trads of country fimilar to thofe which are known to us 
 by the name of peat-mofs. In fuch places the population could 
 not be expelled to be exceflive ; and, accordingly, we met with 
 few inhabitants, except thofe who fubfifted their families by 
 fifliing. So great were the numbers engaged in this employ- 
 ment, who lived entirely in floating veflTels, that we judged 
 
 When there is an abundance of manure, it may be laid on previous to 
 
 " the ufe of the plough, but if it be fcarce, &c. it will be preferable to apply it to the 
 " foil at the time of fowing the feed. 
 
 " The manure fhould be old and well prepared, and among the bed ingredients for 
 " the purpofe, is the refufe of vegetable fubftances, from which an oil has been ex- 
 " prefled. 
 
 " In the fouthern provinces the cotton plant will laft for two or three years, but to 
 " the n6rth\vard the feed muft be fown annually." 
 
 The author then enumerates nine diftin<5t varieties and their comparative quali- 
 ties ; after which he proceeds to the choice of feed, under which head he obferves, 
 that if the feed be fteeped in water, in which eels have been boiled, the plant will refift 
 the attack of iiifeds. He then defcribes the three methods of broadcafl, drilling, and 
 dibbling, :ind gives a decided preference of the laft, though it be the moft laborious. 
 
 " The ground being well prepared, holes are to be made at the diftance of a cubit 
 " from each other, and the lines a cubit apart. A little water is firft to be poured 
 " in, and then four or five feeds, after which each hole is to be covered with a mix- 
 *• ture of foil and manure, and firmly trodden down with the foot. In the other 
 " methods a roller is to be ufed." 
 
 The next procefs is weeding, loofening, and breaking fine the earth. — He then 
 obferves, " After the plants have attained feme degree of ftrength and fize, the moft 
 •' advanced and perfeift plant fhould be feledled, and ail the reft rooted out, for if two 
 " or more be fuffered to rife together, they will increafe in height without giving la- 
 <' teral (hoots ; the leaves will be large and luxuriant, but the pods will be few." He 
 next proceeds to the pruning of the plants to nnake them bear coploufly — gathering 
 the pods — preparing and fpinning the wool — weaving the cloth. — Tliis abridged ac- 
 count I have given to Ihew, that they are not deficient in writings of this kind. 
 
 the
 
 558 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the waters to be fully as populous as the land. No rent Is ex- 
 aded by the government, nor toll, nor tythe, nor licence-mo- 
 ney for permiflion to catch fifh ; nor is there any fort of impe- 
 diment againft the free ufe of any lake, river or canal whatfoever. 
 The gifts that nature has beftovv^ed are cautioufly ufurped by 
 any power, even in this defpotic government, for individual 
 ufe or profit ; but are fuffered to remain the free property of all 
 who may chufe by their labour to derive advantage from them. 
 But even this free and unreftrained ufe is barely fufficient to 
 procure for them the neceflaries, much lefs any of the comforts, 
 of life. The condition of the peafantry, in the northern parts 
 of this province, was much more defirable. Their clothing 
 was decent ; their countenances cheerful, indicating plenty ; 
 and their dwellings were built of bricks or wood, appearing 
 more folld and comfortable than thofe of the province in which 
 the capital is fituated. But the poor fifhermen carried about 
 with them unequivocal marks of their poverty. Their pale 
 meagre looks are afcribed to the frequent, and almoft exclufive, 
 ufe of fifli ; which is fuppofed to give them a fcrophulous 
 habit of body. Their endeavours, however, are not wanting 
 to correft any acid or unwholefome humours that this fort of 
 diet may produce, by the abundant ufe of onions and garlic, 
 which they cultivate even upon the waters. Having no houfes 
 on ftiore, nor ftationary abode, but moving about in their vef- 
 fels upon the extenfive lakes and rivers, they have no induce- 
 ment to cultivate patches of ground, which the purfuits of their 
 profeflion might require them to leave for the profit of ano- 
 ther; they prefer, therefore, to plant their onions on rafts of 
 bamboo, well interwoven with reeds and ftrong grafs and 
 
 covered
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 SS9 
 
 covered with earth ; and thefe floating gardens are towed after 
 their boats. 
 
 The women aflift in dragging the net and other operations 
 of taking fifh j but the younger part of the family are fometlmes 
 employed in breeding ducks. Thefe ftupid birds here acquire 
 an aftonifhing degree of docility. In a fmgle veflel are fome- 
 times many hundreds which, like the cattle of the Kaffers in 
 fouthern Africa, on the fignal of a whiftle leap into the water, 
 or upon the banks to feed ; and another whiftle brings them back. 
 Like the ancient Egyptians,jthey ufe artificial means of hatching 
 eggs, by burying them in fand at the bottom of wooden boxes, 
 and placing them on plates of iron kept moderately warm by 
 fmall furnaces underneath. Thus the old birds which, pro- 
 vided they hatched their eggs themfelves, would only produce 
 one brood, or at mod two, in the courfe of the year, continue 
 to lay eggs almoft every month. Hogs are alfo kept in many 
 of the fifhing craft. In fadl, ducks and hogs affording the moll 
 favory meat, moft abounding in fat and, it may be added, beft 
 able to fubfift themfelves, are efteemed above all other animals. 
 The ducks being fplit open, falted, and dried in the fun, are 
 exchanged for rice or other grain. In this ftate we found 
 them an excellent rellfh y and, at our requeft, they were 
 plentifully fupplied during the whole progrefs through the 
 country. 
 
 The province of Shan-tung extends in latitude from thirty- 
 four and a half to thirty-eight degrees. The mean tempera- 
 ture, from the 19th of 0(3;oberto the 29th of the fome month, 
 
 was
 
 360 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 was about fifty-two degrees at fun-nfe, to feventy degrees at 
 noon. A conftant clear and cloudlefs fky. 
 
 The numerous canals and rivers, that in every diredtlon inter- 
 fe«ft the province oi Kiarig-najt, and by which it is capable of being 
 flooded to any extent in the dryefl: feafons, render it one ot 
 the moft valuable and fertile diftrids in the whole empire. Every 
 part of it, alfo, having a free communication with the Yellow 
 Sea by the two great rivers, the Whang-ho and the Tatig-tfe- 
 kiaiig, it has always been confidered as the central point for 
 the home trade ; and, at one time, its chief city Nankin was 
 the capital of the empire. That beautiful and durable cotton 
 of the fame name is here produced and fent to the port of 
 Canton ; from whence it is ibipped off to the different parts 
 of the world. The Chinefe rarely wear it in its natural 
 colour, except as an article of mourning ; but export it chiefly, 
 taking in return vaft quantities of unmanufadured white cot- 
 ton from Bengal and Bombay, finding they can purchafe this 
 foreign wool at a much cheaper rate than that at which the 
 nankin fells. For mourning drelTes and a few other purpofes 
 white cotton is made ufe of, but in general it is dyed black or 
 blue : among fome of our prefents were alfo pieces of a beauti- 
 ful fcarlet. Near moft of the plantations of cotton we obferved 
 patches of indigo ; a plant which grows freely in all the 
 middle and fouthern provinces. The dye of this fhrub being 
 no article of commerce in China is feldom, if ever, prepared 
 in a dry ftate, but is generally employed to communicate its 
 colouring matter from the leaves, to avoid the labour and the 
 lofs that would be required to reduce it to a folid fubftance. 
 
 We
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 561 
 
 We obferved that, in the cotton countries, almoft every cottage 
 had its garden of indigo. As in ancient times, in our own 
 country, when every cotrager brewed his own beer ; kept his 
 own cow for milk and butter ; bred his own fheep, the wool of 
 which being fpun into yarn by his own family was manufac- 
 tured into cloth by the parifli weaver ; and when every peafant 
 raifed the materials for his own web of hempen cloth ; fo it ftill 
 appears to be the cafe in China. Here there are no great far- 
 mers nor monopolifts of grain ; nor can any individual nor 
 body of men, by any poflibility, either glut the market, or with- 
 hold the produce of the ground, as may beft fuit their purpofe. 
 Each peafant is fuppofed, by his induftry, to have the means 
 of fubfiftence within himfelf; though it often happens that 
 thefe means, from adverfe circumftances which hereafter will 
 be noticed, fail of producing the defired effed. 
 
 In the province of Klang-nan each grows his own cotton ; his 
 wife and children fpin it into thread and it is woven into a web 
 in his own houfe, fometimes by his own family, but more fre- 
 quently by others hired for the purpofe. A few bamboos con- 
 ftitute the whole machinery required for this operation. Money 
 he has none ; but his produce he can eafily barter for any little 
 article of neceflity or luxury. The fuperfluitics of life, which 
 thofe in office may have occafion to purchafe, are paid for in 
 bars of filver without any impreffion,but bearing value for weight, 
 like the Roman as or the Yi^hxcw Jloekel. The only coin in cir- 
 culation is the Tche?iy a piece of fome inferior metal mixed with 
 a fmall proportion of copper, of the value of the thoufandth 
 part of an ounce of filver ; with this fmall piece of money the 
 
 4 c little
 
 562 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 little and conftantly demanded neceflaries of life are purchafed, 
 fuch as could not conveniently be obtained by way of barter. Sil- 
 ver is rarely lent out at intereft, except between mercantile men 
 in large cities. The legal intereft is twelve per cent, but it is 
 commonly extended to eighteen, fometimes even to thirty-fix. 
 To avoid the punilhment of ufury, what is given above twelve 
 per cent, is in the ihape of a botius. " Ufury, in China," ob- 
 ferves Lord Macartney, " like gaming elfewhere, is a difho- 
 " nourable mode of getting money ; but by a fort of compact 
 " betv/een neceflity and avarice, between affluence and diftrefs, 
 " the profecution of a Jew or a fharper is confidered by us as 
 " not very honourable even in the fufferers." 
 
 The greater the diftance from the capital, the better was the 
 apparent condition of the people. The Viceroy, when he 
 received his Excellency on the entry of the embafl'y into this 
 province, happened to caft his eye upon the half-ftarved and 
 half-naked trackers of the boats ; and being either afliamed of 
 their miferable appearance, or feeling compaflion for their fitu- 
 ation, he ordered every man immediately a fuit of new cloaths. 
 In the morning, when our force was muftered, we were not 
 a little furprized to fee the great alteration that had taken place 
 in the appearance of our trackers : every man had a blue cotton 
 jacket edged with red, a pair of new white trowfers, and a 
 fmart hat with a high crown and feather. The natural fertility 
 of the country, its central fituation commanding a brifk trade, 
 the abundance of its fifheries on the large rivers and lakes 
 were incentives to induftry, for the vaft population that feemed 
 to be equally diftribuied over every part of the province. 
 
 I Rice
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 563 
 
 Rice being the ftaple of China was abundantly cultivated, 
 in all fuch places as afforded the greateft command of water. 
 The ufual average produce of corn-lands is reckoned to be from 
 ten to fifteen for one ; and of rice, from twenty- five to thirty ; 
 commonly about thirty. Thofe corn-lands that will admit of 
 eafy irrigation are ufually turned over with the plough imme- 
 diately after the grain is cut ; which, in the middle provinces, 
 is ready for the fickle early in June, about the fame time that the 
 young rice fields ftand at the height of eight or ten inches. 
 Thefe being now thinned, the young plants are tranfplanted 
 into the prepared wheat lands, which are then immediately 
 flooded. Upon fuch a crop they reckon from fifteen to twenty 
 for one. Inftead of rice one of the millets is fometimes fowa 
 as an after-crop, this requiring very little water, c.- the Cad" 
 jan^ a fpecies of Do/ic/jos or fmall bean, for oil, requiring ftill 
 lefs. Or, it is a common pradlice, after taking oflf a crop of 
 cotton and indigo, in the month of Odober, to fow wheat, in 
 order to have the land again clear in the month of May or 
 June. Such a fucceffion of crops, without ever fuffering the 
 land to lie fallow, fhould feem to require a large quantity of 
 manure. In fa£t, they fpare no pains in procuring comports 
 and manures; but they alfo accomplifh much without thefe 
 materials, by working the foil almoft incefTantly and mixing 
 it with extraneous matters as, for inftance, marie with light 
 and fandy foils, or if this is not to be had, ftifF clay ; and on 
 clayey grounds they carry fand and gravel. They alfo drag the 
 rivers and canals and pools of water for flime and mud ; and 
 they preferve, with great care, all kinds of urine, in which it 
 
 4 c 2 is
 
 564 T R A V E L S 1 N C H 1 N A. 
 
 is an unlverfal praftice to ftecp the feeds previous lo their being 
 fown. If turnip-feeds be fteeped in lime and urine, the plant 
 is faid not to be attacked by the infeift. Near all the houfes 
 are large earthen jars funk in the ground, for colleding and 
 preferving thefe and other materials that are convertible, by 
 putrefactive fermentation, into manure. Old men and chil- 
 dren may be feen near all the villages with fmall rakes and 
 bafkets, collecting every kind of dirt, or offals, that come in 
 their way. Their eagernefs to pick up whatever may be ufed 
 as manure led to fome ridiculous fcenes. Whenever our barges 
 halted and the foldiers and fervants found it neceffary to ftep 
 on fhore, they were always purfued to their place of retirement 
 by thefe colledors of food for vegetables. It may literally be 
 faid in this country, that nothing is fuffered to be loft. The 
 profeflion of {having is followed by vaft numbers in China. 
 As the whole head is fhaved, except a fmall lock behind, few, 
 if any, are able to operate upon themfelves. And as hair is 
 confidered an excellent manure, every barber carries with him 
 a fmall bag to colle£t the fpoils of his razor. 
 
 The common plough of the country is a fimple machine 
 and much inferior to the very worft of ours. We faw one 
 drill plough in Shan-tung different from all the reft. It con- 
 fifted of two parallel poles of wood, fliod at the lower ex- 
 tremities with iron to open the furrows ; thefe poles were 
 placed on wheels : a fmall hopper was attached to each 
 pole to drop the feed into the furrows, which were covered 
 with earth by a tranfverfe piece of wood fixed behind, that 
 juft fwept the furface of the ground. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 56^ 
 
 The machine ufually employed for clearing rice from the 
 huflc, in the large way, is exadly the fame as that now ufed 
 in Egypt for the fame purpofc, only that the latter is put in 
 motion by oxen and the former commonly by water. This 
 machine confifts of a long horizontal axis of wood, with cogs 
 or projeQing pieces of wood or iron fixed upon it, at certain 
 intervals, and it is turned by a water-wheel At right angles 
 to this axis are fixed as many horizontal levers as there are 
 circular rows of cogs ; thefe levers aft on pivots, that are 
 fallened into a low brick wall built parallel to the axis, and at 
 the diftance of about two feet from it. At the further extremity 
 of each lever, and perpendicular to it, is fixed a hollow peftle, 
 diredly over a large mortar of ftone or iron funk into the 
 ground ; the other extremity extending beyond the wall, be- 
 ing prefled upon by the cogs of the axis in its revolution, ele- 
 vates the peftle, which by its own gravity falls into the mortar. 
 An axis of this kind fometimes gives motion to fifteen or twenty 
 levers. This machine "*, as well as the plough, ftill in ufe in 
 modern Egypt, which is alfo the fame as the Chinefe plough, 
 have been confidered by a member of the French Inftitute to be 
 the fame inftruments as thofe employed in that country two 
 thoufand years ago ; and judging from the maxims of the Chi- 
 nefe government, and the charadler of the people, an antiquity 
 equally great may be afligned to them in the latter country. The 
 bamboo wheel for raifing water, or fomething approaching very 
 near to it, either with buckets appended to the circumference, 
 or with fellies hollowed out fo as to fcoop up water, was alfo in 
 
 ♦ See the plate facing page 37. 
 
 ufe
 
 ^66 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ufe among the ancient Egyptians ; and, as I have before ob- 
 ferved, continue to be fo among the Syrians ; from thefe they 
 are fuppofed to have paffed into Perfia, where they are aho ftill 
 employed, and from whence they have derived, in Europe, 
 the name of Perfian wheels. The chain-pump of China, com- 
 mon in the hands of every farmer, was likewife an inftrument 
 of hulbandry in Egypt. 
 
 A very erroneous opinion feems to have been entertained in 
 Europe, with regard to the fkill of the Chinefe in agriculture. 
 Induftrious they certainly are, in an eminent degree, but their 
 labour does not always appear to be beftowed with judgment. 
 The inftruments, In the firft place, they make ufe of are inca- 
 pable of performing the operations of hufbandry to the greateft 
 advantage. In the deepeft and beft foils, their plough feldom 
 cuts to the depth of four inches, fo that they fow from year to 
 year upon the fame foil, without being able to turn up new 
 earth, and to bury the worn-out mould to refrefh itfelf. Sup- 
 pofing them, however, to be fupplied with ploughs of the beft 
 conftrudlion, we can fcarcely conceive that their mules and 
 afles and old women, would be equal to the talk of drawing 
 them. 
 
 The advantage that large farms in England poflefs over fmall 
 ones confifts principally in the means they afford the tenant 
 of keeping better teams than can poflibly be done on the latter, 
 and confequently of making a better tilth for the reception of 
 feed. The opulent farmer, on the fame quantity of ground, 
 will invariably raife more produce than the cottager can pretend 
 
 to
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 567 
 
 to do. In China nine-tenths of the peafantry may be confi- 
 dered as cottagers, and having few cattle (millions I might add 
 none at all) it can fcarcely be expeded that the whole country 
 fhould be in the bed poflible ftate of cultivation. As horticul- 
 turifts they may perhaps be allowed a confiderable fhare of me- 
 rit ; but, on the great fcale of agriculture, they are certainly not 
 to be mentioned with many European nations. They have no 
 knowledge of the modes of improvement pradtifed in the vari- 
 ous breeds of cattle ; no inftruments for breaking up and pre- 
 paring wafte lands; no fyftem for draining and reclaiming 
 fwamps and morafles ; though that part of the country over 
 which the grand communication is effedled between the two ex- 
 tremities of the empire, abounds with lands of this nature, 
 where population is exceffivc and where the multitudes of 
 (hipping that pafs and repafs create a never failing demand for 
 grain and other vegetable products. For want of this know- 
 ledge, a very confiderable portion of the richefl: land, perhaps, 
 in the whole empire, is fuffered to remain a barren and unpro- 
 fitable wafte. If an idea may be formed from what we faw in 
 the courfe of our journey, and from the accounts that have been 
 given of the other provinces, I fhould conclude, that one- 
 fourth part of the whole country nearly confifts of lakes and 
 low, four, fwampy grounds, which are totally uncultivated : and 
 which, among other reafons hereafter to be mentioned, may 
 ferve to explain the frequent famines that occur in a more fatif- 
 faftory way, than by luppofing, with the Jefuits, that they arc 
 owing to the circumftance of the nations bordering upon them 
 to the weftward being favage and growing no corn. Their 
 ignorance of draining, or their dread of inundations, to which 
 
 the
 
 568 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 the low countries of China, in their prefent flate, are fabjc£t, 
 may perhaps have driven them, in certain fituations, to the 
 neceffity of levelling the fides of mountains into a fucceffion of 
 terraces ; a mode of cultivation frequently taken notice of by 
 the miffionaries as unexampled in Europe and peculiar to the 
 Chinefe ; whereas it is common in many parts of Europe. The 
 mountains of the Pays de Vaud, between Laufanne and Vevay, 
 are cultivated in this manner to their fummits with vines. 
 " This would have been impradicable," fays Doctor Moore, 
 " on account of the fteepnefs, had not the proprietors built 
 " ftrong ftone walls at proper intervals, one above the other, 
 " which fupport the foil, and from little terraces form the bot- 
 " torn to the top of the mountains." But this method of ter- 
 racing the hills is not to be confidered, by any means, as a com- 
 mon practice in China. In our dire£l route it occurred only 
 twice, and then on fo fmall a fcale as hardly to deferve notice. 
 The whole territorial right being vefted in the fovereign, the 
 wafte lands of courfe belong to the crown ; but any perfon, by 
 giving notice to the proper magiflrate, may obtain a property 
 therein, fo long as he continues to pay fuch portion of the efti- 
 mated produce as is required to be collected into the public ma- 
 gazines. 
 
 When I faid that the Chinefe might claim a confiderable fhare 
 of merit as horticulturifts, I meant to confine the obfervation to 
 their {kill and induftry of raifing the greateft poflible quantity 
 of vegetables from a given piece of ground Of the modes 
 pra£tifed in Europe of improving the quality of fruit, they feein 
 to have no juft notion. Their oranges are naturally good and 
 
 require
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 569 
 
 require no artificial means of improvement, but the European 
 fruits, as apples, pears, plums, peaches and apricots are of indiffer- 
 ent quality. They have a common methodof propagating feveral 
 kinds of fruit-trees, which of late years has been pra£tifed with 
 fuccefs in Bengal. The method is fimply this : they ftrip a ring 
 of bark, about an inch in width, from a bearing branch, fiir- 
 lound the place with a ball of fat earth or loam bound fad to 
 the branch with a piece of matting ; over this they fafpend a pot 
 or horn with w^ater having a fmall hole in the bottom juft fuf- 
 ficlent to let the w^ater drop, in order to keep the earth conrtant- 
 ly moift ; the branch throws new roots into the earth juft above 
 the place where the ring was ftripped off; the operation is per- 
 formed in the fpring, and the branch is fawn off and put into 
 the ground at the fall of the leaf; the following year it bears 
 fruit. They have no method of forcing vegetables by artificial 
 heat, or by excluding the cold air and admitting, at the fame 
 time, the rays of the fun through glafs. Their chief merit con- 
 fifts in preparing the foil, working it inceffantly, and keeping it 
 free of weeds. 
 
 Upon ihe whole, if I might venture to offer an opinion with 
 refpedi to the merit of the Chinefe as agriculturifts, 1 fhould not 
 hefitate to fay that, let as much ground be given to one of their 
 peafants as he and his family can work with the fpade, and he 
 will turn that piece of ground to more advantage, and produce 
 from it more fuftenance for the ufe of man, than any European 
 whatfoever would be able to do ; but, let fifty or one hundred 
 acres of the beft land in China be given to a farmer, at a mean 
 rent, fo far from making out of it the value of three rents, on 
 
 4 D which
 
 570 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 which our farmers ufually calculate, he would fcarcely be able 
 to fupport his family, after paying the expence of labour that 
 would be required to work the farm. 
 
 In fa£t there are no great farms in China. The Inhabitants enjoy 
 every advantage which may be fuppofed to arife from the lands 
 being pretty equally divided among them, an advantage of 
 which the effects might probably anfwer the expedations of 
 thofe who lean towards fuch a fyftem, were they not counter- 
 acted by circumftancesthat are not lefs prejudicial, perhaps, to 
 the benefit of the public, than monopolizing farmers are by fuch 
 perfons fuppofed to be in our own country. One of the circum- 
 ftances I allude to is the common pradice, in almoft every part 
 of the country, of aflcmbling together in towns and villages, 
 between which very frequently the intermediate fpace of ground 
 has not a fingle habitation upon it ; and the reafon afligned for 
 this cuftom is the dread of the bands of robbers that in- 
 feft the weak and unprotected parts of the country. The con- 
 fequence of fuch a fyftem is, that although the lands adjoining 
 the villages be kept in the higheft ftate of cultivation, yet thofe 
 at a diftance are fuffered to remain almoft ufelefs ; for having 
 no beafts of burden, it would be an endlefs tafk of human la- 
 bour to bear the manure that would be required, for feveral 
 miles, upon the ground, and its produce from thence back again 
 to the village. That fuch robbers do exift who, in formidable 
 gangs, plunder the peafantry, is very certain : She-foo-pao was 
 watching his grain to prevent its being ftolen, when he had the 
 misfortune of (hooting his relation, who had alfo gone out for 
 the fame purpofe. They are fometimes indeed fo numerous, as 
 
 I to
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 571 
 
 to threaten their moft populous cities. The frequency of fuch 
 robberies and the alarm they occafion to the inhabitants are 
 neither favourable to the high notions that have been entertained 
 of the Chinefe government, nor of the morals of the people. 
 Another, and perhaps the chief, difadvantage arifmg from landed 
 property being pretty equally divided, will be noticed in fpeak- 
 ing of the population and the frequent famines. 
 
 The province oi K'tang-7ian extends from about 31° to 34" 
 of northern latitude ; and the mean temperature, according to 
 Fahrenheit's thermometer, from the 30th of October to the 
 9th of November, was 54° at fun-rife and 66° at noon ; the 
 fky uniformly clear. 
 
 The province of Tche-kiang abounds in lakes and is inter- 
 fedled with rivers and canals like K'ia?7g-nan ; but the produce, 
 except that of a little rice, is very different, confifting princi- 
 pally of filk. For feeding the worms that afford thts article, 
 all the fertile and beautiful vallies between the mountains, as 
 well as the plains, are covered with plantations of the mulberry- 
 tree. The fmall houfes, in which the worms are reared, are 
 placed generally in the centre of each plantation; in order that 
 they may be removed as far as poffible from any kind of noife; 
 experience having taught them, that a fudden fliout, or the 
 bark of a dog, is deftrudive of the young worms. A whole 
 brood has fomerimes perifhed by a thunder ftorm. The greatefl: 
 attention is, therefore, neceffary ; and, accordingly, they are 
 watched night and day. In fine weather, the young worms 
 are expofed to the fun, upon a kind of thin open gauze ftretched 
 
 4 D 2 in
 
 572 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 in wooden frames ; and at night they are replaced in the 
 plantation houfes. The trees are pruned from time to time, 
 in order to caufe a greater quantity and a coiiftant fucceflion 
 of young leaves. The inhabitants of this province, efpecially 
 in the cities, are ahnoft univerfally clothed in filks ; this rule 
 among the Chinefe of confuming, as much as pofTible, the pro- 
 ducts of their own country, and receiving as little as they can 
 avoid from foreign nations, extends even to the provinces ; a 
 pradlice arifing out of the little refpedl that, in China, as in an- 
 cient Rome, is paid to thofe concerned in trade and mer- 
 chandize. 
 
 Befides filk Tche-kiang produces camphor, tallow from the 
 Croton^ a confiderable quantity of tea, oranges, and almoft all 
 the fruits that are peculiar to the country. Every part of the 
 province appeared to be in the higheft ftate of cultivation and 
 the population to be immenfe. Both the raw and manufac- 
 tured filks, nankins and other cotton cloths, were fold at fuch 
 low prices in the capital of this province, that it is difficult to 
 conceive how the growers or the manufadlurers contrived to 
 gain a livelihood by their labour. But of all others, I am the 
 moft aftonifhed at the fmall returns that muft neceffarily be 
 made to the cultivators of the tea plant. The preparations of 
 fome of the finer kinds of this article are faid to require that 
 every leaf fhould be rolled fingly by the hand ; particularly fuch 
 as are exported to the European markets. Befides this, there 
 are many procefles, fuch as fteeping, drying, turning, and pack- 
 ing, after it has been plucked off the flirub leaf by leaf. Yet 
 the firft coft in the tea provinces cannot be more than from four- 
 pence
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^yj 
 
 pence to two (hillings a pound, when It is confidcred that the 
 ordinary teas ftand the Eaft India Company in no more than 
 eight-pence a pound ; and the very heft only two (hillings 
 and eight-pence *. Nothing can more clearly point out the 
 patient and unremitting labour of the Chinefe, than the 
 preparation of this plant for the market. It is a curious cir- 
 cumftance that a body of merchants in England fhould furnifh 
 employment, as might eafily be made appear, to more than a 
 million fubjeds of a nation that afFeds to defpife merchants, 
 and throws every obftacle in the way of commercial inter- 
 courfe. 
 
 The mean temperature of Tche-k'iang, in the middle of No- 
 vember, was from fifty-fix degrees at funrife, to fixty-two de- 
 grees at noon. The extent from North to South is between 
 the parallels of twenty-eight and thirty-four and a half degrees 
 of northern latitude. 
 
 The northern part of Kiang-fee contains the great Po-yang 
 lake, and thofe extenfive fwamps and morafTes that furround 
 it, and which, as I have already obferved, may be confidered as 
 the fink of China. The middle and fouthern parts are moun- 
 tainous. The chief produce is fugar and oil from tlxe Camellia 
 Sefatiqu a In this province are the principal manufadories of 
 porcelain, whofe qualities, as I have in a former chapter ob- 
 
 * The Eaft India Company pays from thirteen to fixty tales per pccnl for their 
 teas ; fome tea of a higher price is pnrchafed by indiriduals, biu feldom or ever by 
 the Company. A tale is fix fhillings and eight-pence, and a pecul is one hundred 
 and thirty-three pounds and one third. 
 
 ferved,
 
 574 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 ferved, depend more on the care beftowed in the preparation 
 and in the feledion of the materials, than in any fecret art 
 poffefled by them. There are alfo, in this province, large 
 manufa£lories of coarfe earthen ware, of tiles, and bricks. 
 
 The extent of Kiang-fee is from twenty-eight to thirty 
 degrees, and the temperature, in November, was the fame as 
 that of the neighbouring province of I'che-kiatig. 
 
 I have now to mention a fubjed on which much has already 
 been written by various authors, but without the iuccefs of 
 having carried convidion into the minds of their readers, that 
 the things which they offered as fads were either true or pof- 
 fible ; I allude to the populoufnefs of this extenfive empire. 
 That none of the ftatements hitherto publifhed are ftridly true, 
 I am free to admit, but that the higheft degree of populoufnefs 
 that has yet been affigned may be poflible, and even probable, 
 I am equally ready to contend. At the fame time, I acknowledge 
 that, prepared as we were, from all that we had feen and heard 
 and read on the fubjed, for fomething very extraordinary; 
 yet whtn the following ftatement was delivered, at the requeft 
 of the Embaffador, by Chou-ta-gm^ as the abftrad of a cenfus 
 that had been taken the preceding year, the amount appeared 
 fo enormous as to furpafs credibility. But as we had always 
 found this officer a plain, unafFeded, and honeft man, who on 
 no occafion had attempted to deceive or impofe on us, we could 
 not confiftently confider it in any other light than as a document 
 drawn up from authentic materials j its Inaccuracy, however, 
 
 was
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 S7S 
 
 was obvious at a fingle glance, from the feveral fums being given 
 in round millions. I have added to the table the extent of the 
 provinces, the number of people on a (quare mile, and the 
 value of the furplus taxes remitted to Pekin in the year 1792, 
 as mentioned in the feventh chapter. 
 
 Provinces. 
 
 Population. 
 
 Square Miles. 
 
 No. on 
 
 each fquare 
 
 Mile. 
 
 Surplus taxes rc- 
 miued 10 Fekin. 
 
 Pe-tche-lee 
 
 Kiang-nan 
 
 Ki,ing fee 
 
 Tche-kiang 
 
 Fo-kien 
 
 TT f Hou-pee 
 
 "^"'^"^"Sl Hou-nan 
 
 Ho-nan 
 
 Shan-tung 
 
 Shan-fee 
 
 Shen-fee 7 one 
 
 Kan-foo 3 province 
 
 Se-tchuen 
 
 Quang-tuiig 
 
 Quang-fee 
 
 Yu-nan 
 
 Koei-tchoo 
 
 38,000,000 
 32,000,000 
 19,000,000 
 2I,OOO,C0O 
 15,000,000 
 14,000,000') 
 
 13,000,000 3 
 
 25,000,000 
 
 24,000,000 
 
 27,000,000 
 
 18,000,000') 
 
 13,000,0003 
 
 27,000,000 
 
 21,000,000 
 
 10,000,000 
 
 8,ooc,o 
 9,000,000 
 
 58,949 
 92,961 
 72>'76 
 
 39.'5o 
 
 53'4»o 
 
 144,770 
 
 65,104 
 65,104 
 55.268 
 
 154,008 
 
 166,800 
 
 79.456 
 
 78,250 
 
 107,969 
 
 64,554 
 
 644 
 
 344 
 263 
 
 536 
 280 
 
 187 
 
 384 
 368 
 
 488 
 
 195 
 
 162 
 264 
 128 
 
 74 
 140 
 
 02. filver. 
 3,0_)6,000 
 
 8,2 10,000 
 
 2,1 i0,O0O 
 
 3,810,000 
 1,277,000 
 f 1,310,000 
 I 1,345,000 
 3,213,000 
 3,600,000 
 
 3,722,000 
 
 ( 1,700,000 
 
 l 340,000 
 
 670,000 
 
 1,340,000 
 
 500,000 
 
 210,000 
 
 145,000 
 
 Totals 
 
 3-? 3, 000, 000 
 
 1,207,999' 
 
 
 36,548,000 
 
 
 * The meafurement annexed to each of the fifteen ancient provinces was taken 
 from the maps that were conflruded by a very laborious and, as far as we had aiv 
 opportunity of comparing them with the country, a very accurate furvey, which 
 employed the Jefuits ten years. I do not pretend to fay that the areas, as I have 
 given them in the table, are mathematically correft, but the dimenfions were taken 
 with as much care as was deemed necelTary for the purpofe, from maps drawn on 
 a large fcale, of which a very beautiful manufcript copy is now in his Majefty's li- 
 brary at Buckingham-houfe, made by a Chinefe, having all the names written in 
 Chinefe and Tartar charailers 
 
 Confidering
 
 576 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Confidering then the whole furface of the Chinefe dominions 
 within the great wall to contain 1,297,999 fquare miles, or 
 830,719,360 Engliili acres, and the population to amount to 
 333,000,000, every fquare mile will be found to contain two 
 hundred and fifty-fix perfons, and every individual might 
 potfefs two acres and a half of land. Great Britain is fuppofed 
 to average about one hundred and twenty perfons on one fquare 
 mile, and that to each inhabitant there might be affigned a 
 portion of five acres, or to each family five-and-twenty acres. 
 The population of China, therefore, is to that of Great Britain 
 as 256 to 120, or in a proportion fomewhat greater than two 
 to one ; and the quantity of land that each individual in Great 
 Britain might polTefs is juft twice as much as could be allowed 
 to each individual of China. We have only then to enquire if 
 Britain, under the fame circumftances as China, be capable of 
 fupporting twice its prefent population, or which is the fame 
 thing, if twelve and an half acres of land be fufficient for the 
 maintenance of a family of five perfons ? Two acres of choice 
 land fown with wheat, under good tillage, may be reckoned to 
 average, after deducing the feed, 60 bulliels or 3600 pounds, 
 which every baker knows would yield 5400 pounds of bread, or 
 three pounds a-day to every member of the family for the whole 
 year. Half an acre is a great allowance for a kitchen-garden 
 and potatoe bed. There w^uld ftill remain ten acres, which 
 muft be very bad land if, befides paying the rent and taxes, it 
 did not keep three or four cows ; and an induftrious and mana- 
 ging family would find no difficulty in rearing as many pigs and 
 as much poultry as would be neceflary for home confumption, 
 
 and
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. ^77 
 
 and for the purchafe of clothing and other indifpenfable 
 neceflaries. If then the country was pretty equally par- 
 titioned out in this manner ; if the land was applied fole- 
 ly to produce food for man ; if no horfes nor fuperfluous 
 animals M'ere kept for pleafure, and few only for labour ; if 
 the country was not drained of its beft hands in foreign trade 
 and in large manufadlories ; if the carriage of goods for exchang- 
 ing with other goods was performed by canals and rivers and 
 lakes, all abounding with fifli ; if the catching of thefe fifli gave 
 employment to a very confiderable portion of the inhabitants ; 
 if the bulk of the people were fatisfied to abftain almoft wholly 
 from animal food, except fuch as is mod eafily procured, that 
 of pigs and ducks and fifh ; if only a very fmall part of the 
 grain raifed was employed in the dillilleries, but was ufed as 
 the ftaff of life for man ; and if this grain was of fuch a na- 
 ture as to yield twice, and even three times, the produce that 
 wheat will give on the fame fpace of ground ; if, moreover, the 
 climate was fo favourable as to allow two fuch crops every year— 
 if, under all thefe circumftances, twelve and a half acres of 
 land would not fupport a family of five perfons ; the fault 
 could only be afcribed to idlenefs or bad management. 
 
 Let us then, for a moment, confider that thefe or fiinilar ad- 
 vantages operate in China ; that every product of the ground is 
 appropriated folely for the food and clothing of man ; that a 
 fmgle acre of land, fown with rice, will yield a fufficient quan- 
 tity for the confumption of five people for a whole year, allow- 
 ing to each perfon two pounds a-day, provided the returns of 
 his crop are from twenty to twenty-five for one, which are con- 
 lidered as extremely moderate, being frequently more than 
 
 4 E twice
 
 5;8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 twice this quantity ; that in the fouthern provinces two crops 
 of rice are produced in the year, one acre of which I am well 
 afluredjwith proper culture, will afford a fupply of that grain even 
 for ten perfons, and that an acre of cotton will clothe two or 
 three hundred perfons, we may juftly infer that, inftead of 
 twelve acres to each family, half that quantity would appear to 
 be more than necelTary ; and fafely conclude, that there is no 
 w^ant of land to fupport the aflumed population of three hun- 
 dred and thirty-three millions. This being the cafe, the popu- 
 lation is not yet arrived at a level with the means which the 
 country affords of fubfiftence. 
 
 There is, perhaps, no country where the condition of the pea- 
 fantry may more juRly be compared with thofe of China than 
 Ireland. This ifland, according to the lateft furvey, contains 
 about 17,000,000 Englifli acres, 730,000 houfes and 3,500,000 
 fouls ; fo that, as in Great Britain, each individual averages 
 very nearly five acres and every family five-and-twenty. An 
 Irifh cottager holds feldom more than an Irifli acre of land, or 
 one and three-quarters Englifh nearly, in cultivation, with 
 a cow's grafs, for which he pays a rent from two to five 
 pounds. Thofe on Lord Macartney's eftate at Liflanore have 
 their acre, which they cultivate in divifions with oats, potatoes, 
 kale, and a little flax ; with this they have befides the full paf- 
 turage of a cow all the year upon a large wafte, not overftocked, 
 and a comfortable cabin to inhabit, for which each pays the 
 rent of three pounds. The cottager works perhaps three days in 
 the week, at nine-pence a-day ; if, inftead of which, he had a 
 fecond acre to cultivate, he would derive more benefit from its 
 
 produce
 
 TRAVELS IN CHIjNA. 575 
 
 produce than from the produd of his three days' labour per 
 week ; that is to fay, provided he would expend the fame la- 
 bour in its tillage. Thus then, fuppofing only half of Ireland 
 in a ftate of cultivation and the other half pafturage, it would 
 fupport a population more than three times that which it now 
 contains ; and as a century ago it had no more than a million of 
 people, fo within the prefent century, under favourable circuni- 
 ftances, it may Increafe to ten millions. And it is not unworthy of 
 remark, that this great Increafe of population in Ireland has taken 
 place fmce the introduQion of the potatoe, which gives a never- 
 failing crop. 
 
 I am aware that fuch is not the common opinion which prevails 
 in this country, neither with regard to Ireland nor China ; on the 
 contrary, the latter is generally fuppofed to be overftocked with 
 people ; that the land is infufficient for their maintenance, and 
 that the cities ftand fo thick one after the other, efpecially alonf 
 the grand navigation between Pekin and Canton, that they al- 
 moft occupy the whole furfacc. I fliould not, however, have 
 expedled to meet with an obfervatlon to this effedl from the 
 very learned commentator on the voyage of Nearcbi/s, founded 
 on no better autaority than the crude notes of one JEttcas An- 
 derfo/i^ a livery fervant of Lord Macartney, vamped up by a 
 London bookfeller as a fpeculation that could not fail, fo greatly 
 excited was public curiofity at the return of the EmbalTy. I 
 would not be thought to diiparage the authority on account of 
 its being that of a livery fervant ; on the contrary, the notes of 
 the meaneft and dulleft perfon, on a country fo little travelled 
 over, would be deferving attention before they came into the 
 
 4 E 2 hands
 
 580 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 hands of a hook-dreJJ'er ; but what dependence can be placed on 
 the information of an author who ftates as a fa£l, that he faw tea 
 and rice growing on the banks of the Pei-bo, between the thir- 
 ty-ninth and fortieth parallels of latitude, two articles of the cul- 
 ture of which, in the whole province oi Pe-tche-lee, they know no 
 more than we do in England ; and who ignorantly and imper- 
 tinently talks of the fhocking ideas the Chinefe entertained of 
 Englifh cruelty, on feeing one of the guard receive a few laflies, 
 when, not only the common foldiers, but the officers of this na- 
 tion are flogged moft feverely with the bamboo on every flight 
 occafion. If Dodor Vincent, from reading this book, was 
 really perfuaded that the cities of China were fo large and fo 
 numerous, that they left not ground enough to fubfifl: the inha- 
 bitants, 1 could wifh to recall his attention for a few moments to 
 this fubjedl, as opinions fandlioned by fuch high authority, 
 whether right or wrong, are fure, in fome degree, to bias the 
 public mind. We have feen that if China be allowed to contain 
 three hundred and thirty-three millions of people, the propor- 
 tion of its population is only juft double that of Great Britain. 
 Now if London and Liverpool and Birmingham and Glafgow, 
 and all the cities, towns, villages, gentlemen's villas, farm-houfes 
 and cottages in this ifland were doubled, I fee no great incon- 
 venience likely to arife from fuch duplication. The unproduc- 
 tive land, in the fhape of gentlemen's parks and pleafure grounds, 
 would, I prefume, be much more than fufficient to counterbalance 
 the quantity occupied by the new eredions ; and the waftes 
 and commons would perhaps be more than enough to allow 
 even a fecond duplication. But the population of an Englifh 
 city is not to be compared with, or confidercd as fimilar to, the 
 
 I populouf-
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 581 
 
 populoufnefs of a Chinefe city, as will be obvious by confidcr- 
 ing the two capitals of thefe two empires. Pekin, according to 
 a meafurement fuppofed to be taken with great accuracy, occu- 
 pies a fpace of about fourteen fquare miles. London, with its 
 fuburbs, when reduced to a fquare, is faid to comprehend about 
 nine fquare miles. The houfes of Pekin rarely exceed a finglc 
 ftory ; thofe of London are feldom lefs than four ; yet both 
 the Chinefe and the miflionaries who are fettled in this capital 
 agree that Pekin contains three millions of people ; while Lon- 
 don is barely allowed to have one million. The reafon of this 
 difference is, that moft of the crofs ftreets of a Chinefe city are 
 very narrow, and the alleys branching from them fo confined, 
 that a perfon may place one hand on one fide and the other 011 
 the other fide as he walks along * ; that the houfes in general 
 are very fmall, and that each houfe contains fix, eight, or ten 
 perfons, fometimes twice the number. If, therefore, fourteen 
 fquare miles of buildings in China contain three millions of 
 inhabitants, and nine fquare miles of buildings in England one 
 million, the population of a city in China will be to that of a 
 city in England as twenty-feven to fourteen, or very nearly 
 as two to one ; and the former, with a proportion of inhabi- 
 tants double to that of the latter, will only have the fame 
 proportion of buildings ; fo that there is no neceffity of their 
 being fo clofely crowded together, or of their occupying fo 
 great a portion of land, as to interfere with the quantity necef- 
 fary fof the fubfiftence of the people. 
 
 • One of llie Rreets in the fuburbs of Canton is cmpiiatically called Squccit-^ut- 
 alley, which is fo narrow that every gentleman in the Company's fcrvice docs nc.i 
 find it quite convenient to pafs. 
 
 I h.'ve
 
 582 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 I have been thus particular, in order to fet in its true light 
 a fubje£t that has been much agitated and generally difbelieved. 
 The fum total of three hundred and thirty-three millions is fo 
 enormous, that in its aggregate form it aftonifhes the mind and 
 ftaggers credibility ; yet we find no difficulty in conceiving 
 that a fingle fquare mile in China may contain two hundred 
 and fifty-fix perfons, efpecially when we call to our recollec- 
 tion the United Provinces of Holland, which have been calcu- 
 lated to contain two hundred and feventy inhabitants on a fquare 
 mile. And the United Provinces have enjoyed few of the 
 advantages favourable to population, of which China, for ages 
 part, has been in the uninterrupted pofleffion. 
 
 The materials for the ftatement given by Father Amiot of 
 the population of China appear to have been colle£ted with 
 care. The number of fouls in 1 760, according to this ftate- 
 ment was - _ ^. - 196,837,977 
 
 In 1761 _ - - - 198,214,553 
 
 Annual increafe — ^y37^)57^ 
 
 This ftatement muft however be incorred, from the circum- 
 ftance of fome millions of people being excluded who have no 
 fixed habitation, but are conftantly changing their pofition on 
 the inland navigations of the empire, as well as all the iflanders 
 of the Archipelago of Chu-faji and of Formofa. Without, 
 however, taking thefe into confideration, and by fuppofing the 
 number of fouls in 1761, to amount to 198,214,553, there 
 ought to have been, in the year 1793, by allowing a progref- 
 
 five
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 583 
 
 five increale, according to a moderate calculation In political 
 arithmetic, at leaft 280,000,000 fouls. 
 
 Whether this great empire, the firft in rank both in extent 
 and population, may or may not adually contain ^^^■^ millions 
 of fouls, is a point that Europeans are not likely ever to afcer- 
 tam. That it is capable of fubfifting this and a much greater 
 population has, I think, been fufficiently proved. I know it is 
 a common argument with thofe who are not willing to admit 
 the facft, that although cities and towns and fhipping may 
 be crowded together in an aftonifliing manner, on and 
 near the grand route between the capital and Canton, yet that 
 the interior parts of the country are almoft deferted. By fome 
 of our party going to Chu-fan^ we had occafion to fee parts of 
 the country remote from the common road, and fuch parts 
 happened to be by far the moft populous in the whole journey. 
 But independent of the fmall portion of country feen by us, 
 the weftern provinces, which are moft diftant from the grand 
 navigation, are confidered as the granaries of the empire ; and 
 the cultivation of much grain, where few cattle and lefs ma- 
 chinery are ufed, neceffarily implies a correfponding population. 
 Thus we fee from the above table, that the furplus produce of 
 the land remitted to Pekin from the provinces of 
 
 O^. filvcr. 
 
 Honan 1 . c ^-u j (" 3>2 13,000 
 
 c,y r I remote rrom the c;rand A "* -^ 
 
 Shan-lee > ■ • ^ < 3,722,000 
 
 c,, r \ navigation, were 1 -"/ ' 
 
 Shen fee J L 2,040,000 
 
 Whilft thofe of 
 
 Pe-tche-lee l , j • ..• C 3>o36,ooo 
 
 cu . (on thegr and navigation, J ^ A' ^^^ 
 
 Shan-tung >• ^ ) 3,000,000 
 
 Tche-kiang \ "^"^ (. j,Sio,coo 
 
 chiefly
 
 584 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 chieriy in rice, wheat, and millet. There are no grounds there- 
 fore for fuppofing that the interior parts of China are deferts. 
 
 There are others again who are perfuaded of the population 
 being fo enormous, that the country is wholly inadequate to 
 fupply the means of fubfiflence ; and that famines are abfo- 
 lutely neceffiiry to keep down the former to the level of the 
 latter. The loofe and general way in which the accounts of 
 the miflionarles are drawn up certainly leave fuch an impref- 
 fion ; but as I have endeavoured to fliew that fuch is far from 
 being the cafe, it may be expedled I fhould alfo attempt to 
 explain the frequency of thofe difaftrous famines which occa- 
 fionally commit fuch terrible havock in this country. I am of 
 opinion then, that three principal reafons may be afligned for 
 them. Firft, the equal divifion of the land : Secondly, the 
 . mode of cultivation : and Thirdly, the nature of the pro- 
 duds. 
 
 If, in the firfl; place, every man has it in his option to 
 rent as much land as will fupport his family with food and 
 clothing, he will have no occafion to go to market for the firll 
 neceflities ; and fuch being generally the cafe in China, thofe 
 firfl neceflities find no market, except in the large cities. When 
 the peafant has brought under tillage of grain as much land as 
 may be fufficient for the confumption of his own family, and 
 the neceflary furplus for the landlord, he looks no further ; and 
 all his neighbours having done the fame, the firfl necefTiiies are, 
 in fadl, unfaleable articles, except in fo far as regards the de- 
 mands of large cities, which are by no means fo clofe upon 
 
 one
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 5S5 
 
 one another a<! has been imagined. A farplus of grain is like- 
 ■wife Icfs calculated to cxcliange for fupcrfluities or luxuries 
 than many ether articles of produce. This being the cafe, if^ 
 by any accident, a failure of the crops fliould be general in 
 a province, it has no- relief to expedl from the neighbouring pro- 
 vinces, nor any fupplies from foreign countries. In China there 
 are no great farmers who ftore their grain to throw into the 
 market in feafons of fcarcity. In fuch feafons the only refource 
 ifi that of the government opening its magazines, and reftoring 
 to the people that portion of their crop which it had demanded 
 from them as the price of its protedion. And this being 
 originally only a tenth part, out of which the monthly fub- 
 fiftence of every officer and foldier had already been deduded, 
 the remainder is feldom adequate to the wants of the people. 
 Infurre£lion and rebellion enfue, and thofe who may efcape 
 the devouring fcourge of famine, in all probability, fall by the 
 fword. In fuch feafons a whole province Is fomctimcs half 
 depopulated;, wretched parents are reduced, by imperious want, 
 to fell or deftroy their offspring, and children to put an end, 
 hy violence, to the fufferings of their aged and infirm parents. 
 Thus, the equal divifion of land, fo favourable to population in 
 feafons of plenty, is juft the reverfe when the calamity of a- 
 famine falls upon the people. 
 
 In the fecond place, a fcarcity may be owing to the mode 
 of cultivation. When I mention that two-thirds of the fmall 
 quantity of land under tillage is cultivated with the fpade or the 
 hoe, or otherwife by manual labour, without the aid of draught- 
 
 4 F cattle
 
 586 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 cattle or fkilful machinery, it will readily be conceived how 
 very fmall a portion each family will be likely to employ every 
 year j certainly not one-third part of his average allowance. 
 
 The third caufe of famines may be owing to the nature of 
 the produdls, particularly to that of rice. This grain, the ftafF 
 of life in China, though it yields abundant returns in favourable 
 feafons, is more liable to fail than moft others. A drought in 
 its early ftages withers it on the ground ; and an inundation, 
 when nearly ripe, is equally deftrudive. The birds and the 
 locufts, more numerous in this country than an European can 
 well conceive, infeft it more than any other kind of grain. In 
 the northern provinces, where wheat, millet and pulfe are 
 cultivated, famines more rarely happen ; and I am perfuaded 
 that if potatoes and Guinea corn [Zea-Mays) were once 
 adopted as the common vegetable food of the people, thofe 
 direful famines that produce fuch general mifery would entirely 
 ceafe, and the encreafe of population be as rapid as that of Ire- 
 land. This root in the northern provinces, and this grain in 
 the middle and fouthern ones, would never fail them. An 
 acre of potatoes would yield more food than an acre of rice, 
 and twice the nourifhment. Rice is the poorefl of all grain, if we 
 may judge from the {lender and delicate forms of all the people 
 who ufe it as the chief article of their fuftenance j and potatoes 
 are juft the contrary *. 
 
 * The great advantage of a potatoe crop, as I before oblerved, is the certainty 
 of its fucceis. W. re a general failure of this root to take place, as fometimes hap- 
 pens to crops of rice, Ireland, in its prefent ftatc, would experience all the horrors 
 thsit attend a famine in feme of the provinces of China. 
 
 As
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 587 
 
 As Dr. Adam Smith obferves, " The chairmen, porters, and 
 " coal-heavers in London, and thofe unfortunate women who 
 " live by proftitution, the ftrongelt men and the moft beau- 
 " tiful women perhaps in the Britifli dominions, are faid to be, 
 *' the greater part of them, from the lowell rank of the people 
 " in Ireland, who are generally fed with this root ; no food 
 " can afford a more decifive proof of its nourlfliing quality, 
 " or of its being peculiarly fiiitable to the health of the hu^nan 
 " conftitution." The Guinea corn requires little or no atten- 
 tion after the feed is dropped into the ground ; and its leaves 
 and juicy ftems are not more nourifhing for cattle than its pro- 
 lific heads are for the fuftenance of man. 
 
 Various caufes have contributed to the populoufnefs of 
 China.. Since the Tartar conqueft it may be faid to have enw 
 joyed a profound peace ; for in the different wars and fkir- 
 mifhes that have taken place with the neighbouring nations on. 
 the fide of India, and with the Ruffians on the confines of 
 Siberia, a few Tartar foldiers only have been employed. The 
 Ghinefe army is parcelled out as guards for the towns, cities, 
 and villages ; and ftationed at the numberlefs pofls on the roads 
 and canals. Being feldom relieved from the fevcral guards,, 
 they all marry and have families. A certain portion of land is 
 allotted for their ufe, which they have fufEcient time to culti- 
 vate. As the nation has little foreign commerce there are few 
 feamen ; fuch as belong to the inland navigations are moftly 
 married. Although there be no dire<St penalty levied againft 
 fuch as remain batchelors, as was the cafe among the Romans 
 
 4, F 2 when.
 
 588 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 when they willied to repair the defolation that their civil wars 
 had occafioned, yet puhllc opinion confiders celibacy as dif- 
 graceful, and a fort of infamy is attached to a man who con- 
 tinues unmarried beyond a certain time of life. And although 
 In China the public law be not eftablifhed of the Jus triian 
 liberoruniy by which every Roman citizen having three children 
 was entitled to certain privileges and Immunities, yet every 
 male child may be provided for, and receive a ftipend from the 
 moment of his birth, by his name being enrolled on the mili- 
 tary lift. By the equal divifion of the country into fmall farms, 
 every peafant has the means of bringing up his family, if 
 drought and inundation do not fruftrate his labour ; and the 
 purfuits of agriculture are more favourable to health, and con- 
 fequently to population, than mechanical employments in 
 crowded cities, and large manufadlories, where thofe who are 
 doomed to toil are more liable to become the vidims of difeafe 
 and debauchery, than fuch as are expofed to the free and open 
 air, and to adive and wholefome labour. In China there 
 are few of fuch manufaduring cities. No great capitals are 
 here employed in any one branch of the arts. In general 
 each labours for himfelf in his own profeffion. From the 
 general poverty that prevails among the lower orders of people, 
 the vice of drunkennefs is little pradifed among them. The 
 multitude, from neceffity, are temperate in their diet to the 
 laft degree. The climate is moderate and, except in the 
 northern provinces wh«re the cold is fevere, remarkably uniform, 
 not liable to thofe fudden and great changes in temperature, 
 which the human conftitution is lefs able to refift, than the 
 
 extremes
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 589 
 
 extremes of lieat or cold when fteady and invariable, and from 
 which the inconveniencies are perhaps nowhere fo feverely 
 felt as on our own ifland. Except the fmall-pox and con- 
 tagious difeafes that occafionally break out in their confined 
 and crowded cities, they are liable to few epidemical diforders. 
 The ftill and inanimate kind of life which is led by the wo- 
 men, at the fame time that it is fuppofed to render them 
 prolific, preferves them from accidents that might caufe 
 untimely births. Every woman fuckles and nurfes her own 
 child. 
 
 The operation of thefe and other favourable caufes that 
 might be afligned, in a country that has exifled under the 
 fame form of government, and prefervcd the fame laws and 
 cuftoms for fo many ages, muft neceflarily have created an ex- 
 cefs of population unknown in moft other parts of the world, 
 where the ravages of war, feveral times repeated in the courfe 
 of a century, or internal commotions, or peftilential difeafe, or 
 the effects of overgrown wealth, fometimes fweep away one 
 half of a nation within the ufual period allotted to the life of 
 man. 
 
 *< What a grand and curious fpedtacle," as Sir George Staun- 
 ton obferves, " is here exhibited to the mind of fo large a pro- 
 *' portion of the whole human race, connedled together in one 
 *' great fyftem of polity, fubmitting quietly and through fo 
 " confiderable an extent of country to one great fovereign ; and 
 
 " uniform
 
 590 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " uniform in their laws, their manners, and their language ; but 
 *' differing eflentially in each of thefe refpeds from every other 
 " portion of mankind ; and neither defirous of communicating 
 " with, nor forming any defigns againft, the reft of the world." 
 How ftrong an inftance does China afford of the truth of the 
 obfervation, that men are more eafily governed by opinion thaa. 
 by power..
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 59, 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Journey through the Province of Canton. — Situation of Fo- 
 reigners trading to this Port.— Conclufion. 
 
 Vifihle Chnnge tn the CharaEier of the People. — Rugged Afouniains..^Co//ienes 
 
 Temple in a Cavern. — Stone ^tarries. — Various Plants for Vfe and Ornament 
 
 Arrive at Canton — Expence of the Rmbnffy to the Chinefe Government.— To the 
 Britifj Nation. — Nature and Inconveniences of the Trade to Canton.— ~The Armenian 
 
 and his Pearl. — Impoftions of the Officers of Government inflanced. Principal 
 
 Caufe of them is the Ignorance of the Language.— Cnfe of Chinefe trading to London. 
 
 —A Chinefe killed by a Seaman of His Majejly's Ship Madras Delinquent faved 
 
 from an ignominious Death, by a proper Mode of Communication -with the Govern' 
 tnent. — Conclusion. 
 
 W E had no fooner pafled the fummlt of the high mountain 
 Me-lin^ and entered the province of Sluan-tung, or Canton than 
 a very fenfible difference was perceived in the condud of the in- 
 habitants. Hitherto the Embaffy had met with the greateft re- 
 fped and civility from all clafles of the natives, but now even 
 the peafantry ran out of their houfes, as we paffed, and bawled 
 after us ^eitze-fan-qitei, which, in their language, are opprobri- 
 ous and contemptuous expreflions, fignifying /cir^/p-// (/evils 
 imps ; epithets that are beftowed by the enlightened Chinefe on 
 
 all
 
 592 TRAVELS. IN CHINA. 
 
 all foreigners. It was obvious, that the haughty and iufolent 
 manner in which all Europeans refiding at, or trading to, tlie 
 port of Canton are treated, had extended itfelf to the northern 
 frontier of the province, but it had not croffed the mountain 
 Me-lin ; the natives of Kiang-fce being a qu;et, civil, and inoffen- 
 five people. In ^ati-iiwg the farther we advanced, the more 
 rude and infolent they became. A timely rebuke, however, 
 given to the governor of Nau-JJjeiin-foo by Van-ta-gtn, for apply- 
 ing the above-mentioned opprobrious epithets to the Britidi 
 EmbafTy, had a good efFe£l on the Canton officers, who were 
 now to be our condudtors through their province. 
 
 This contempt of foreigners is not confined to the upper ranks, 
 or men in office, but pervades the very loweft clafs who, whilft 
 they make no fcruple of entering into the fervice of foreign 
 merchants refiding in the country, and accepting the moft me- 
 nial employments under them, performing the duties of their 
 feveral offices with diligence, punduality, and fidelity, affeft, 
 at the fame time, to defpife their employers, and to confider 
 them as placed, in the fcale of human beings, many degrees be- 
 low them. Having one day obferved my Chinefe fervant bu- 
 fily employed in drying a quantity of tea-leaves, that had al- 
 ready been ufed for breakfaft, and of which he had colletfted 
 feveral pounds, I inquired what he meant to do with them : 
 he replied, to mix them with other tea and fell them. " And 
 " is that the way," faid I, " in which you cheat your own 
 »♦ countrymen ?" " No," replied he, " my own countrymen are 
 " too wife to be fo eafily cheated, but your's are ftupid enough 
 " to let us ferve you fuch like tricks j and indeed," continued he, 
 
 % with
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 593 
 
 with the greateft fans froid imaginable, " any thing you get 
 " from us is quite good enough tor you." AfFeding to be an- 
 gry with him, he faid, " he meant for \\\z fecond fort of En- 
 " gliihmen," which is a diftindion they give to the Ame- 
 ricans *. 
 
 The city of Nafi-fJjcun-foo was pleafantly fituated on the high 
 bank of the river Pei-kiang-ho. The houfes appeared to be 
 very old, the ftreets narrow, large tradts of ground within the 
 walls unbuilt, others covered with ruins. While the barges 
 were preparing to receive on board the baggage, we took up 
 our lodgings in the public temple, that was dedicated to the 
 memory of Confucius, being, at the fame time, the college 
 where the (ludents are examined for their different degrees. It 
 C3nfifted of a long dark room, divided by two rows of red pil- 
 lars into a middle and two fide ailes, without furniture, paint- 
 ings, ftatues, or ornaments of any kind, except a few paper 
 lanterns fufpendcd between the pillars; the floor was of earth 
 and entirely broken up : to us it had more the appearance of a 
 large paflage or gang-way to fome manufadtory, as a brewhoufe 
 or iron foundery, than of the hall of Confucius. On each fide 
 and at the farther extremity, were feveral Itnall apartments, io 
 which we contrived to pafs the night. 
 
 The barges in which we now embarked were very fmall, 
 owing to the Ihallownefs of the river. The oflicers, aflembJed 
 
 • In the Canton ]^rgon,fecond chop EngViflmtn; and e\'en this diftinflion the Ame- 
 ricans, 1 underftand, have nearly f orfeiied in the minds of the Chinefe. 
 
 4 G here
 
 594 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 here from different parts of the country, detained us a whole 
 day in order to have an opportunity of laying their feveral 
 complaints before our phyfician, at the recommendation ofTa?/- 
 ta-ghi, who had felt the good effe£ls of his pradlice. Here, for 
 once, we had an inftance of Chinefe pride giving way to felf- 
 intereft, and ufurped fuperiority condefcending to afk advice of 
 barbarians. We failed for two days in our little barges, through 
 one of the moft wild, mountainous, and barren tra£ts of coun- 
 try that I ever beheld, abounding more in the fublime and hor- 
 rible, than in the pidurefque or the beautiful. The lofty fum- 
 tnits of the mountains feemed to touch each other acrofs the 
 river and, at a diftance, it appeared as if we had to fail through 
 an arched cavern. The mafly fragments that had fallen down 
 from time to time, and impeded the navigation, were indica- 
 cations that the paffage was not altogether free from danger. Five 
 remarkable points of fand-ftone rock, rifing in fucceflion above 
 each other with perpendicular faces, feemed as if they had 
 been hewn out of one folid mountain : they were called ou-ma^ 
 too, or the five horfes' heads. The mountains at a diftance on 
 each lide of the river were covered with pines, the nearer hills 
 with coppice wood, in which the Camellia prevailed ; and ia 
 the iittle glens were cluflers of fifliermen's huts, furrounded by 
 fmall plantations of tobacco. 
 
 Within the defile of thefe wild mountains, vre obferved fe- 
 veral extenfive collieries, which were advantageoufly worked 
 by driving levels from the river into their fides. The coals 
 brought out of the horizontal adits were immediately lowered 
 from a pier into veffels that were ready to receive and tranf- 
 
 port
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 395 
 
 port them to the potteries of this province, and of Kiaug-fee. 
 Coal is little ufed in its raw ftate.but is firft charred in large pits 
 that are du^^ in the ground. Coal duft, mixed with earth, and 
 formed into fquare blocks, is frequently ufed to heat their little 
 ftoves, on which they boil their rice. 
 
 At the city of Tchao-tchoo-foo, where we arrived on the 13th, 
 we exchanged our flat-bottomed boats for large and commo- 
 dious yachts, the river being here much increafed by the con- 
 fluence of another ftream. The boats before this city were 
 moftly managed by young girls, whofe drefs confifted of a neat 
 white jacket and petticoat and a gipfey ftraw hat. Having for 
 fo great a length of time fcarcely ever fet our eyes upon a fe^ 
 male, except the heads of fome at a diftance, peeping from be- 
 hind the mud walls that furround the houfes, or labouring in 
 the grounds of Kiang-fee^ the ferry girls, though in reality very 
 plain and coarfe-featured, were confidered as the moft beautiful 
 objects that had occurred in the whole journey. To the occu- 
 pation of ferrying paffengers over the river it feemed they 
 added another, not quite fo honourable, for which, however, 
 they had not only the confent and approbation of their parents, 
 but alfo the fandion of the government, or perhaps, to fpeak 
 more correctly, of the governing magiftrates, given in con- 
 fidcration of their receiving a portion of the wages of pro- 
 ftitution. 
 
 In this mountainous diftridt a few fifhermen's huts and 
 thole of the colliers were the only habitations that occurred ; 
 but the defedl of population was abundantly fupplicd by tlie 
 
 4. G 2 number
 
 596 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 number of wooden dwellings that were floating on the river. 
 Small huts, to the number of thirty or forty, were loinetimes 
 erected upon a fingle floating raft of fir baulks, lafhed together 
 by the ends and the fides. On thefe rafts the people carry on 
 their trade or occupation, particularly fuch as work in wood. 
 
 Our condudors directed the yachts to halt before a detached 
 rock, rifing with a perpendicular front from the margin of the 
 river to the height of feven hundred feet. In this front we ob- 
 ferved a cavern, before which was a terrace that had been cut 
 out of the rock, acceflible by a flight of fteps from the river. 
 Proceeding from the terrace into the cavity of the rock, we 
 afcended another flight of flairs, alfo cut out of folid ftone, 
 which led into a very fpacious apartment. In the centre of 
 this apartment fat the goddefs Pan fa upo-n a kind of altar, con- 
 ftituting a part of the rock, and hewn into the fliape of the 
 Lien-wba or Nelumbium. A fmall opening, next the river, ad- 
 mitted a " dim religious light," fuitable to the folemnity of 
 the place, which we were told was a temple confecrated to Poo- 
 fa^ and a monaftery for the refidence of a few fuperaniiuated 
 priefls. On the fmooth fides of the apartment was infcribed a 
 multitude of Chinefe verfes, fome cut into the rock, and others 
 painted upon it. The lodgings of the priefts were fmall caves 
 branching out of the large temple. A third flight of fteps led 
 from this to a fecond fl:ory, which was alfo lighted by a fmaH 
 aperture in front, that was nearly choaked up by an immenfe 
 mafs of ftaledllte that had been formed, and was ftill increafing, 
 by the conftiant oozing of water holding in folution calcare- 
 ous matter, and fufpended from a projedion of the upper part 
 
 of
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 597 
 
 of the rozk. Bat the light was fufficient to dlfcover a gigantic 
 image with a Saracen face, who " grinn'd horrible a ghaflly 
 " fmile." On his head was a fort of crown ; in one hand he 
 held a naked fcymeter, and a firebrand in the other ; but the 
 hiftory of this colofTal divinity feemed to be imperfectly known, 
 even to the votaries o'i Poo-fa themfelves. He had in all probabi- 
 lity been a warrior in his day, the Thefeus or the Hercules of 
 Cliina. The cave of the Cumaean Sibyl could not be better 
 fuited for dealing out the myfterious decrees of fate to the fu- 
 perftitious multitude, than that of the ^tan-gin Jhan^ froni 
 whence the oracle of future deftiny, ia like manner, 
 
 " HorrenJas canit ambages, antroque remugit, 
 " Ob'curis vera iiivoivens." 
 
 " The wond'rous truths, !nvo!v'd in riddles, gave, 
 " And furious bellovv'J round the gloomy ciive." 
 
 Lord Macartney obferved that this fi.ngular temple brought 
 to his recolledlion a Francifcan monaftery he had ftcn in Portiv- 
 gal, near Cape Roxent, ufually called the Cork Convent, " which 
 " is an excavation of confiderable extent under a hill, divided 
 ** into a great number of cells, and fitted up with a church, 
 •' facrifty, refe(flory, and every requifite apartment for the ac- 
 *' commodation of the mlferable Cordeliers who burrow in it. 
 " The infide is entirely lined with cork : the walls, the roofs, 
 *' the floors, are covered with cork ; the tables, feats, chairs, 
 " beds, couches, the furniture of the chapel, the crucifixes, and 
 " every other implement, are all made of cork. The place was 
 " certainly difmal and comfortlefs to a great degree, but it 
 
 wanted the gigantic form, the grim features, the terrific 
 
 3 " afpedl 
 
 ((
 
 598 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 " afped which diftinguifh the temple of Poofa^ in the rock of 
 " ^uan-g'in-Jloanr Difmal as this gloomy den appeared to be, 
 where a few miferable beings had voluntarily chained them- 
 felves to a rock, to be gnawed by the vultures of fupcrftition 
 and fanaticifm, it is ftill lefs fo than an apartment of the Fran- 
 cifcan convent in Madeira, the walls of which are entirely co- 
 vered with human flculls, and the bones of legs and arms, 
 placed alternately in horizontal rov/s. A dirty lamp fufpended 
 from the ceiling, and conftantly attended by an old bald-headed 
 friar of the order, to keep the feeble light juft glimmering in 
 the focket, ferves to fhevsr indiftindly to ftrangers this difguft- 
 ing 7nemento mori. It would be difficult to determine which of 
 the three were the moll ufelefs members of fociety, the monks 
 oi Poo-fa, the monks of the Cork convent, or the monks of 
 Golgotha. 
 
 In feveral places among the wild and romantic mountains 
 through which we were carried on this river, we noticed quar- 
 ries of great extent, out of which huge ftones had been cut for 
 fepulchral monuments, for the arches of bridges, for archi- 
 traves, for paving the ftreets, and for various other ufes. To ob- 
 tain thefe large maflcs, thefaw is applied at the upper furface, and 
 they work down vertically to the length required. Each 
 ftone is fliaped and fafhioned to the fize that may be wanted, 
 before it is removed from the parent rock, by which much 
 difficulty is avoided and lefs power required in conveying it 
 to its deftination. Rude misQiapen blocks, requiring additional 
 labour for their removal, are never detached from the rock in 
 fuch a ftate. In this refped they are more provident than the 
 
 late
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 599 
 
 late Emprefs of Ruflia who, at an immenfe expencc and with 
 the aid of complicated machinery, cauled u block of ftone to 
 be brought to her capital, to ferve as a pedeftal for clie ftatue 
 of the Czar Peter, where it was found expedient to reduce it to 
 two-thirds of its original dimenfions. 
 
 Between the city of Canton and the firfl: pagoda on the bank 
 of the river, there is a continued feries of fimilar quarries, which 
 appear not to have been worked for many years. The regular and 
 formal manner in which the ftones have been cut away, exhibiting 
 lengthened ftreets of houfes with quadrangular chambers, in the 
 fides of which are fquare holes at equal diftances, as if intended 
 for the reception of beams ; the fmoothnefs and perfeQ perpen- 
 dicularity of the fides, and the number of detached pillars that 
 are fcattered over the plam, would juftify a fimilar miftake to 
 that of Mr. Addifon's Dodlor of one of the German univer- 
 fities, whom he found at Chateau d'Un in France, carefully 
 meafurlng the free-ftone quarries at that place, which he had 
 conceived to be the venerable remains of vail fubcerranean palaces 
 of great antiquity. 
 
 Almoft all the mountains that occurred in our paflage through. 
 China were of primaeval granite, fome few of fand-ftone, and 
 the inferior hills were generally of lime-ftone, or coarfe grey 
 marble. Except the Ladrone iflands on the fouth, and fome 
 of the Chu-fah iflands on the eaft, we obferved no appearances 
 in the whole country of volcanic produdlions. The high 
 mountains, indeed, that form great continental chains are 
 feldom, if ever, of volcanic formation. The prefence of a 
 
 vaft
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 . t.r feems to be iadifpenfably neceffary to 
 vaft volume of water ^-ms ,,,ordingly, we find 
 
 carry on this operation of n tu ^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ 
 
 ,.. volcanic ^-^^^^^l .^^ P^ °^ ^^^ ''-^ 
 entirely Inlulated. Thus, a . ^.^^ ^^ ^^^^, ,f 
 
 on the coaft of Chma-e volcano ^^ ^^^^^^, 
 
 lubterranean beat, either m volca P ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ f^-^ to 
 
 rprlngs, on a.e wbole conunen. ^^^.^^^^ J^^^ ^^^ ^^, ^, 
 have been frequently felt m a-1 P 
 Ihort duration. 
 
 ,V,e mountains abruptly «•>''„>;"*„, ,„a ,„ each fide was 
 tended plain v,hlch, to the fou.hw ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^.^^ f,,^,^ 
 
 terminated only by *= l'"""^-- f^yi„, „ the beautiful, from 
 , barrennefs to fertil.ty. f™"^ * '"„, f,-,, .„ pleafe, as all ftrong 
 l„egularity to »f ^l^; ^^t^/Us now in a high ftate of 
 contrafts ufually do. The country ^ .„nes, and to- 
 
 iiiage ; the chief P™'>''*,.;,::;' ' .e'nted by the tribt. 
 bacco ; and the river was lo tnuch g ^^^^ ^^^.^^^ 
 
 ,„, ft.ea.v.sof,hemou.tatns whch _^^^^_ ^^^^^^ 
 
 ,h.t it was nearly half a »''■: ^^, ,be city of San- 
 
 ftomits two b-^» •-;;:;: /;f of the river receding, be- 
 
 ^-"^""'r^bth-o the tide, 
 ing driven back by the nux 
 
 t, vv, wras iuft witbln 
 
 on tbe toth we halted before a -^^^^.^^ was 
 
 , fight of the fubnrbs of Canton. ^^^^^^^^^ ^„,„ 
 
 „l hy the C-»ff-;" "f * ,f; u,„3 tar from the faftor)-^ 
 the Cbinefe had allowed to iToceeJ ^^^
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 6oi 
 
 and to which place the fervants of the Company are occafiou- 
 ally permitted to make their parties of pleafure. In the neigh- 
 bourhood of this village are extenfive gardens for the fupply 
 of the city with vegetables. In fome we obferved nurferies for 
 propagating the rare, the beautiful, the curious, or the ufeful 
 plants of the country ; which are feut to Canton for fale. On 
 this account we were not forry to be obliged to fpend the 
 remainder of the day at this place. Among the choice plants 
 we noticed the large Pcoiiia before mentioned, white, red, and 
 variegated ; the elegant Limodonim Tankervilliay and that fmgu- 
 lar plant the Epidcndriwi Jios aeris, fo called from its vegetating 
 without the affiftance of earth or water ; the Hybijcus miitabilisy 
 the Abelmofchusy and other fpecies of this genus ; the double 
 variegated Camellia Japonica ; the great holly-hock ; the fear- 
 let amaratithus and another fpecies of the fame genus, and a 
 very elegant Celofta or cock's comb ; the Ntriuin Oleander^ 
 fometimes called the Ceylon rofe, and the Tu-lau, a fpecies of 
 magnolia, the flowers of which appear before the leaves burft 
 from the buds. Of the fcented plants iho. pliiiiicria and a 
 double flowering jafmine were the mod efteemed. We ob- 
 ferved alfo in pots the Ocymuin or fweet Bafil, Cloraiithus incon~ 
 JpiciniSy called Cbu-lan^ whofe leaves are fometimes mixed with 
 thofe of tea to give them a peculiar flavour ; the Oleafragrans^ 
 or fweet fcented olive, faid alfo to be ufed for the fame pur- 
 pofe ; a fpecies of myrtle ; the much efteemed Rofa S'mica ; the 
 Tuberofe ; the ftrong fcented Gardenia forida, improperly called 
 the Cape Jafmine; the China pink and feveral others, to enu- 
 merate which would exceed the limits of this work. 
 
 4H 
 
 Of
 
 6oa TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Of fruits we noticed a variety of figs, and three fpecies of 
 mulberries ; peaches and almonds ; the Anuoim or cuftard- 
 apple; the Eugenia yambos, or rofe-apple; the much-efleemed 
 Lee-tchec or Sapindus-eduUs ; and the Kcelrcutcria^ another fpe- 
 cies of the fame genus ; the Averhoa Caranibola^ an excellent 
 fruit for tarts ; and the Ou-long-Jhoo, the Sterculia platanifolia. 
 Befides thefe were abundance of oranges and bananas. 
 
 As vegetables for the table, was a great variety of beans and 
 calavances, among which was the DoUchos Soja or foy plant, 
 and the polyjiachios, with its large cluflers of beautiful Icarlet 
 flowers; the Cytifus Cajaii^ whofe feed yields the famous bean- 
 milk, which it is the cuftom of the Emperor to offer to Em- 
 balTadors on their prefentation ; large mild radifhes, onions, 
 garlick, Capficum or Cayenne-pepper ; convolvulus batatas^ or 
 fweet potatoes; two fpecies of tobacco ; Amomiim, or ginger, in 
 great quantities, the root of which they preferve in fyrup ; 
 Sinapis^ or muftard, and the brajjtca orientalis^ from which an oil 
 is expreffed for the table. 
 
 Of plants that were ufeful in the arts, we obferved the Rhus 
 Vernix, or varnifh-tree, and two other fpecies of the fame genus; 
 Cwr//»?«,orturmeric ; Carthamtu ufed as a dye, and i\\e polygonum 
 Cbinenje for the fame purpofe ; the Rhapis flabdUformis , the 
 dried leaves of which are ufed. for fans among the common 
 people, and particularly by thofe who live in velfels; Cor- 
 chorus whofe bark, in India, is ufed as flax ; but not, I believe, 
 to any extent in China, the white nettle being here preferred. 
 
 The
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 603 
 
 The only medicinal plants were the Rheum palmattim^ Artcmlfta^ 
 and the Smilax or China root. 
 
 To make our entre into Canton the more fplendid, a num- 
 ber of fuperb barges were fent to meet us, carrying flags and 
 ftreamers and umbrellas and other infignia of office ; and in fome 
 were bands of mufic. About the middle of the day we arrived 
 before the fadlories, which conftitute a line of buildings in the 
 European ftyle, extending along the left bank of the river, 
 where the Embaflador was received by the Song-too, or Vice- 
 roy, the Governor, the Ho-poo^ or colledtor of the cuftoms, and 
 all the principal officers of the government. From hence we 
 were conduced to the oppofite fide of the river, where a tem- 
 porary building of poles and mats had been prepared for the 
 occafion ; within which was a fcreen of yellow filk bearing the 
 name of the Emperor in gilt characters. Before this fcreen 
 the Viceroy and other officers performed the ufual proftrations, 
 in token of gratitude to his imperial Majefty, for his having 
 vouchfafed us a profperous journey. 
 
 It is but doing juflice to the Chinefe government and to the 
 individuals in its employ who had any concern in the affiiirs of 
 the embafly, to obferve, that as far as regarded ourfclves, their 
 conduit was uniformly marked by liberality, attention, and an 
 earneft dcfire to pleafe. Nor is there any vanity in faying that, 
 after obiferying usqlofely in the courfe of a long journey and 
 daily intercourfe,.t!h€i officers -of government gradually difmifled 
 the prejudices imbibed againft us, as foreigners, from their carliefl: 
 youth. Gained by our frank and open manners, and by little 
 -attentions, they feemed to fly with pleafure to our fociety as a 
 
 4 II 2 relief
 
 6s4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 relief from the tedious formalities they were obliged to affunie 
 in their official capacity. Van and Chou conftantly pafl'ed the 
 evenings in fome of our yachts. It is impoffible to fpeak of 
 thofe two worthy men in terms equal to their defert. PLind, 
 condefcending, unremitting in their attentions^ they never be- 
 trayed one moment of ill- humour from the time we entered 
 China till they took their final leave at Canton. Thefe two men 
 were capable of real attachments. They infifted on accom- 
 panying the Embaflador on board the Lion, where tliey took 
 their laft farewell. At parting they burft into tears and 
 (hewed the ftrongeft marks of fenfibillty and concern. Their 
 feelings quite overcame them, and they left the Lion for- 
 rowful and dcjeded. Early the following morning they fent 
 on board twenty bafkets of fruit and vegetables, as a farewell 
 token of their remembrance. We had the fatisfadion to hear, 
 that immediately on their arrival at Pekln they both were pro- 
 moted. Chou is at prefent in a high fituation at court, but Vmiy 
 the cheerful good-humoured Van^ has paid the debt of nature, 
 having fallen honourably in the fervice of his country. Oq 
 the condudl of Lee, our Chinefe Interpreter, any praife that 
 I could beftow would be far inadequate to his merit. Fully 
 fenfible of his perilous fituation, he never at any one time 
 fhrunk from his duty. At Macao he took an affedionate leave 
 of his Englifh friends, with whom, though placed in one of 
 the remoteft provinces of the empire, he ftill contrives to cor- 
 refpond. The Embaflador, Lord Macartney, has had feveral 
 letters from him ; the laft of which is of fo late a date as March 
 1802 ; fo that his fenfibillty has not been diminifhed either by 
 time or diftance. 
 
 ^ It
 
 TRAVELS IN CHIN-A. 60s 
 
 It is tlie cuftom of Gliina to confider all EmbafTadcrs as guefts 
 of the Emperor, from the moment they enter any part of his 
 dominions, until they are again entirely out of them. The in- 
 convenience of this cuftom was feverely felt by us, as it pre- 
 veated us from purchafing, in an open manner, many trifling 
 articles that would have been acceptable. The very confider- 
 able expence, incurred by the court on this account, may be one 
 reafon for prefcribing the limited time of forty days for all em- 
 bafladors to remain at the capital. To meet the expences of 
 the prefent Embaffy, Fan-ta-gin aflured me, that they were fur- 
 nilhed with an order to draw on the public treafuiies of the 
 different provinces through which we had to pafs, to the amount 
 of five thoufand ounces of filver a-day, or about one thoufand 
 fix hundred pounds fterling : and that fifteen hundred oimces 
 a-day had been ifiued out of the treafury at Pekin for the fup- 
 portofthe Embaffy during its continuance there. Suppofing 
 then thefe data to be correct, and I fee no reafon for calling 
 their authenticity in queftion, we may form an eftimatc of the 
 whole expence of this Embaffy to the Chinefe government. 
 
 yrom the 6th of Auguft (the day we entered 
 
 the Pei-ho) to the 2 ift (when we arrived in 0z^ 
 
 Pekin) inclufive - - 16 days, 80,000 
 
 From th« 22d Auguft: to the 6th Odober (in 
 
 Pekin and in Gehol) - - 46 days, 69,000 
 
 From the 7th October to the 19th December 
 
 (when we arrived at Canton) - 74 days, 370,000 
 
 Total ounces of filver 5 . 9,000 
 
 Or
 
 6o6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Or one hundred and feventy-three thoufand pounds fterllng; 
 three Chinefe ounces being equal to one pound fterling. 
 
 It is hardly poffible that this enormous fum of money could 
 have been expended on account of the Embafly, though I 
 have no doubt of its having been iflued out of the Imperial 
 treafary for that purpofe. One of the miffionaries informed 
 me, in Pekin, that the Gazette of that capital contained an arti- 
 cle ftating the liberality of tlie Emperor towards the Englilh 
 EmbafTador, in his having directed no lefs a fum than fifteen 
 hundred ounces of filver to be applied for the daily expences of 
 the EmbafTy, while ftationary in the capital and at Gehol. The 
 fame gentleman made an obfervation, that the great officers of 
 government, as well as thofe who had the good luck to be ap- 
 pointed to manage the concerns of a foreign embaffy, confi- 
 dered it as one of the heft wind-falls in the Emperor's gift, the 
 difference between the allowances and the actual expenditure 
 being equivalent to a little fortune. 
 
 Van-ta-gin^ indeed, explained to us, that although the Impe- 
 rial warrant was figned for thofe fums, yet that having a num- 
 ber of offices to pafs through, in all of which it diminiflied a 
 little, the whole of it was not actually expended on the Em- 
 bafTy. He gave to the Embaffador an excellent iiluftration of 
 the manner in which the Imperial bounty was fometimes ap- 
 plied. An inundation had fwept away, the preceding winter, 
 a whole village in the province oi Shan-iinig, fo fiiddenly, that 
 the inhabitants could lave nothing but their lives. The Em- 
 peror having once lodged at the place immediately ordered 
 
 100,000
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 607 
 
 icOjOOO ounces of filver for their relief, out of which the firft 
 officer of tlie treafury took 20,000, the fecond 10,000, the 
 third 5,000, and fo on, till at laft there remained only 20,000 
 for the poor fufferers. So that the boafled morality of China 
 is pretty much the fame, when reduced to praQice, as that of 
 other countries. 
 
 The real expence, however, of the Brltifh Embaffy, could 
 not have been a trifle, when we confider what a vaft multitude 
 of men, horfes, and vefl~els were conftantly employed on the 
 occafion. Fafi ta-gin affured me, that there were feldom fewer 
 than one thoufand men, and frequently many more, employed 
 one way or other in its fervice ; and I am perfuaded he did not 
 intend to exaggerate. In the flrft place, from the mouth of the 
 Pei-ho to Tong-tchoo^ we had forty-one yachts or barges, each 
 on an average, including boatmen, trackers, and foldiers, hav- 
 ing on board fifteen men ; this gives fix hundred and fifteen, 
 men to the boats only. Caterers running about the country to 
 colled, provlfions, boatmen to bring them to the feveral barges, 
 the conducing officers, and their numerous retinue, are not 
 included in this cftimate. From "Tong-tcboo near three thoufand 
 men were employed to carry the prefents and baggage, firfl to 
 Hung-ya-yueri, beyond Pekin, and then back again to the capi- 
 tal, which took them three days. In our return froni Tong- 
 tchoo to Hang-tchoo-foo^ we had a fleet of thirty- veffiels, with ten 
 men at lead and, for the greateft part of the journey, twenty 
 additional trackers to each veflel ; this gives nine hundred 
 people for the yachts alone. 
 
 From"
 
 6c8 " TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 From Haiig-fchoo-fooio En-JJjan-Jlj'icn^ and from Hang-tchoo-foo 
 to Cbii-fan, there might probably be employed about forty veffels, 
 with twelve men to each, or four hundred and eighty in the 
 whole. And, befides the people employed by the officers of 
 government to purchafe provifions, numbers were Rationed in 
 different parts of the rivers to contrad the ftream, by raking 
 together the pebbles where, otherwife, the water would have 
 been too (hallow for the boats to pafs ; and others to attend 
 at all the fiuices on the canals to affift the veffels in getting' 
 through the fame. 
 
 From I'chang'JJoan-JJjten to Eu-JJjati-JJo'tcji, overland, we had 
 about forty horfes, and three or four hundred men to carry the 
 baggage. 
 
 From the Po-ycvig lake to Canton, we had generally about 
 twenty-fix veflels with twenty men to each, including boatmen, 
 ft^ldiers, and trackers, which gives five hundred and twenty 
 men for thefe alone. 
 
 The Embafly confifted of near one hundred perfons, but as 
 for the feveral officers and their numerous retinue of guards, at- 
 tendants, and runners, I have not the lead idea to what their 
 numbers might amount ; all of whom, being on extraordinary 
 fervice, were fupported at the public expence. 
 
 ThewholeexpenceoftheEmbaflyto this country, including the 
 prefeutSjdid not exceed eighty thoufand pounds; an inconfiderable 
 fum for fuch a nation as Great Britain on fuch an occafion, and 
 
 not
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 609 
 
 not more than a fourth part of what has been generally ima- 
 gined. 
 
 Although the Britlfh fadlory was in every fenfe more com- 
 fortable than the mofl fplendid palace that the country afforded, 
 yet it was fo repugnant to the principles of the government for 
 an Embaffador to take up his abode in the fame dwelling with 
 morchants, that it was thought expedient to indulge their no- 
 tions in this refpe(ft, and to accept a large houfe in the midft of 
 a garden, on theoppofite fide of the river, which vras fitted up and 
 furnifhed withbeds in the European manner, with glazed fafli win- 
 dows, and with fire grates fuitable for burning coals. On our arri- 
 val here we found a company of comedians hard at work, in the 
 middle of a piece, which it feemed had begun atfun-rife ; but their 
 fqualling and their flirlll and harfli mufic were fo dreadful, that 
 they were prevailed upon, with difiiculty, to break off during din- 
 ner, which was ferved up in a viranda diredtly oppofite the theatre. 
 
 Next morning, however, about fun-rife, they fet to work 
 afrefh, but at the particular requefl of the Embaffador, in 
 which he was joined by the whole fuite, they were difcharged, 
 to the no fmall aftonifliment of our Chinefe condudors, who 
 concluded, from this circumftance, that the Englifli had very 
 little tafte for elegant amufements. Players, it feems, are here 
 hired by the day and the more inceffantly they labour, the 
 more they are applauded. They are always ready to begin 
 any one piece out of a lift of twenty or thirty, that is prefented 
 for the principal vifitor to make his choice. 
 
 The nature of the trade carried on by foreign nations at the 
 port of Canton is fo well known, that it would be fupcrfluous 
 
 4 I for
 
 6io TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 for me to dwell on thatfubje£t. The complaints of all nations 
 againfl; the extortions pradlifed there have been loudly and fre- 
 quently heard in Europe, but the fleps that have hitherto been 
 taken have proved unavailing. The common anfwer is, 
 " Why do you come here ? We take in exchange your arti- 
 " cles of produce and manufacture, which we really have no 
 " occafion for, and give you in return our precious tea, which 
 " nature has denied to your country, and yet you are not fatif- 
 " fied. Why do you fo often vifit a country whofe cuftoms you 
 " diflike ? We do not invite you to come among us, but when 
 " you do come, and behave well, we treat you accordingly. 
 " Refpe(5l then our bofpitallty, but don't pretend to regulate or 
 *' reform it." Such is the language held to Europeans by all 
 the petty officers of government with whom they have to 
 deal. 
 
 With fuch fentiments one cannot be furprized that fo- 
 reign merchants Ihould be received with indifference, if not 
 handled with rudenefs, and that the fair trader fhould be liable 
 to extortions. This is ftill more likely to happen from the 
 com.plete monopoly of all foreign trade being configned to a 
 limited number of merchants, feldom, I believe, exceeding 
 eight, who are fandioned by government. The cargoes of tin, 
 lead, cotton, opium, and large fums of Spanifh dollars, fent to 
 Canton from Europe, India, and America, all pafs through the 
 hands of thefe Hong merchants, who alfofurnifh the return car- 
 goes. As the capital employed is far beyond any thing of the kind 
 we can conceive in Europe by fo few individuals, their profits muft 
 be proportionally great, or they could not be able to bear the 
 
 expence
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 6ii 
 
 expence of the numerous and magnificent prefents which they 
 are expefted to make to the fuperior officers of government at 
 Canton, who, in their turn, find it expedient to divide thcfc with 
 the Emperor and his minifters in the capital. The various 
 toys, automatons, moving and mufical figures from Coxe's mu- 
 feum, the mathematical and aftronomical inftrnments, clocks, 
 watches, machinery, jewellery, all made in London, and now 
 
 In the different palaces of the Emperor of China, are faid to be 
 Valued at no lefs a fum than two millions fterling, all prefents 
 from Canton. The principal officers of this government are 
 invariably fent down from Pekin ; ihey arrive poor and, in 
 the courfe of three years, return with immenfe riches. How 
 much of the enormous wealth of Ho-tchtitig-tatig came from 
 the fame quarter it is difficult to fay, but the great influence he 
 poffefTed over the Emperor, and his intimacy with the vice- 
 roy of Canton, who was fnperfeded in 1793, leave no doubt, 
 that a very confiderable part of it was drawn from this port. 
 The large pearl, which forms one of the charges preferred 
 againft him, was a prefent from Canton, of which I have been 
 told a curious hiftory by a gentleman who was on the fpot at the 
 time it happened. An Armenian merchant brought this pearl to 
 Canton, in the expcdation of making his fortune. Its fize and 
 beauty foon became known and attra£ted the attention of the 
 officers and the merchants, who paid their daily vifits to the 
 Armenian, offering him prices far inadequate to its value. At 
 length, however, after minute and repeated examinations, a 
 price was agreed upon and a depofit made, but the Armenian 
 
 412 was
 
 6i2 TRAVELS IN CHINA 
 
 was to keep poflefTion of tlie pearl till the remaining part 
 of the purchafe-money fliould be ready ; and in order to obviate 
 any pofTibllity of trick, the box in which it was kept was I'ealed 
 with the purchafer's feal. Several days elapfed without his 
 hearing any thing further from the Chinefe ; and, at length, 
 the time approached when all foreign merchants are ordered 
 down to Macao. The Armenian, in vain, endeavoured to find 
 out the people who had purchafed his pearl, but he contented 
 himfelf with the refledlion that, although he had been difap- 
 pointed in the main objecft of his journey, he ftill had his 
 property, and that the depofit was more than fufficient to de- 
 fray his expences. On reaching his home, he had no longer 
 any fcruple in breaking open the feal ; but his mortification may 
 eafily be fuppofed, on difcovering that his real pearl had 
 been exchanged for an artificial one, fo very like as not to be 
 deteded but by the moft critical examination. The daily vifits 
 of thefe people, it feems, were for no other purpofe than to ea- 
 able them to forge an accurate imitation, which they had dex- 
 teroufly fubftituted for the real one, when they propofed the 
 cunning expedient of fealing the box in which it was inclofed. 
 The Armenians, however, were determined not to be outdone 
 by the Chinefe, A noted charader, of the name of Baboom^ 
 equally well known in Bengal and Madras as in Canton, juft 
 before his failure in about half a million fterling, depofited a va- 
 luable cafket of pearls, as he reprefented them, in the hands of 
 one of the Hotig merchants, as a pledge for a large fum of 
 money, which, when opened, inftead of pearls was found to 
 be a cajket of peas. 
 
 It
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 6ij 
 
 It has always been confidered that a foreigner has little chance 
 of obtaining juftice at Canton. The import and export duties, 
 which by the law of the country ought to be levied ad valorem^ 
 are arbitrarily fixed according to the fancy of the collcdlor. 
 And although the court is at all times ready to punilh, by con- 
 fifcation of their property, fuch as have been guilty of corrup- 
 tion and oppreffion, yet by accepting their prefents, it feems to 
 lend them its encouragement. Befides, the diftance from Can- 
 ton to the metropolis is fo great, the temptations fo ftrong, and 
 the chances of impunity fo much in their favour, that to be 
 honeft, when power and opportunity lend their aid to roguery, 
 is a virtue not within the pale of Chinefe morality. A ftrik- 
 ing inftance of their peculation appeared in a circumftance that 
 was connected with the Britifh Embaffy. In confideration of 
 the Hindoftan having carried prefents for the Emperor, an or- 
 der was iffued from Court that Ihe fliould be exempt from 
 duties at any of the ports where fhe might take in a cargo. It 
 happened that the Hong merchants had already paid the Hin- 
 doftan's duties with thofe of the other fliips, of which her par- 
 ticular fhare was 30,000 ounces of filver. The Hoo-poo or col- 
 ledor was therefore requeued to return this fum agreeably to 
 the order from court, but he refunded only into Mr. Browne's 
 hands 14,000 dollars, which can be reckoned as little more 
 than 1 1,000 ounces, obferving, that fo much was the exadt 
 amount of the Emperor's duties. As in this inftance of a public 
 nature the collector could not be fuppofed to adt without cir- 
 cumfpedtion, we may conclude how very fmall a proportioa 
 of the duties, extorted from foreigners trading to Canton, linds 
 its way into the Imperial treaiury. 
 
 Thus
 
 6i4 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Thus the taxes, which, if we may judge of them from 
 ihofe paid by their own countrymen, are extremely moderate, 
 by the abufes of the admlniftration become ferious grievances 
 to the foreign merchant who, however, has never hitherto em- 
 ployed the only probable mean of obtaining redrefs — that of 
 making himfelf acquainted with the language of the country, 
 fo as to be able to remonflrate to the high officers of ftate, 
 againft the oppreffions and impofitions of thofe who ad in in- 
 ferior capacities ; for, however rapacious and corrupt the firil 
 in authority may be, his timid nature would fhiink immediate- 
 ly from a bold, clamorous, and able complainant, w^ho pof- 
 feflfed the means of making his delinquency notorious. This 
 obfervation has been verified by a recent occurrence. A frau- 
 dulent fuppreffion of a bankruptcy, for which the government 
 Hood refponfible, and by which the interefts of the Eaft India 
 Company, as well as of feveral individuals in India and Can- 
 ton, would materially have fuffered, was completely fruftrated 
 by the fimple circumftance of Mr. Drummond, the chief of 
 the factory, rufliing into the city of Canton, and repeating 
 aloud a few words which he had got by heart whilft, at the 
 fame time, he held up a written memorial ; the confequence 
 of which was, that the memorial was immediately carried to 
 the viceroy, and the grievance complained of therein redrelTed. 
 It would have been in vain to convey it through any of the in- 
 ferior officers or the Hong merchants, as they were all interefted 
 in keeping it from the knowledge of government. 
 
 The fuppofed difficulty of acquiring the Chinefe language 
 has hitherto intimidated the refidents in Canton from making 
 
 the
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 615 
 
 the attempt. Satisfied in tranfadting the Company's concerns 
 through the medium of a jargon of broken EngHlh, which all 
 the Hong merchants and even tlic inferior tradefmen and me- 
 chanics find it worth their while to acquire, they have totally 
 negleded the language, as well as every other branch of infor- 
 mation refpedting the moil interefting and extraordinary empire 
 on the face of the globe. The attainment in facH: of four or 
 five thoufand charaders, which are fufficient to write clearly 
 and copioufly on any fubje<n:, is much lefs difficult than ufually 
 has been imagined, but it would require great attention and 
 unremitting perfeverance, fuch perhaps as few are willing to 
 beftow, who are placed in fituations which enable them to 
 calculate, almoft to a certainty, on realizing a fixed fum in a 
 given number of years. The climate may alio be adverfe to 
 intenfe appHcation, but if the foundation was laid in England, 
 much of the difficulty would thus be obviated. The French, 
 aware of the folid advantages that refult from the knowledge of 
 languages, are at this moment holding out every encou- 
 ragement to the ftudy of Chinefe literature ; obvioufly not 
 without defign. They know that the Chinefe charadler is un- 
 derftood from the Gulph of Siam to the Tartarian Sea, and 
 over a very confiderable part of the great Eaftern Archipelago ; 
 that the Cochin Chinefe, with whom they have already firmly 
 rooted themfelves, ufe no other writing than the pure Chinefe 
 charader, which is alfo the cafe with the Japanefe. It is to be 
 hoped therefore that the Brltifh nation will not negled t!ie 
 means of being able to meet the French, if necefiary, even on 
 this ground. The method of accomplifhing this deiirable ob- 
 ject appears to be extremely fimple. If the Diredors of the 
 
 F.aft
 
 6i6 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 Eaft India Company were to make it a rule that no writer 
 Ihould be appointed to China until he had made himfelf ac- 
 quainted with five hundred or a thoufand charadlers of the 
 language *, I will be bold to fay that, where the number fent 
 out is fo few (the eftablifhment not exceeding twenty) and 
 the emoluments fo very liberal, there would be as little danger 
 as at prefent, by fuch a regulation, of the appointments being 
 made out of their own families. The noble Marquis at the 
 head of their affairs in India has eftablifhed an inftitution, 
 which feems to bid fair for producing a mutual benefit to 
 the parent flate and the native Indians. The exertions of Sir 
 William Jones and a few others had, indeed, long before 
 this, been produdlive of the happieft effeds ; and great num- 
 bers, both on the civil and military cftablilhments of the Com- 
 pany, made themfelves acquainted, in a certain degree, with 
 the different languages fpoken in the country. In fad, it be- 
 came a matter of neceffity, in order to remove prejudices im- 
 bibed againft us and to meet thofe of the natives. The Por- 
 tuguefe and the Dutch adopted a difierent policy ; and, like 
 our refidents at Canton, communicated only with the natives 
 in a jargon of their own languages. Mr. Thunberg tells a 
 ftory of a Dutch gentleman, who had refided as chief of their 
 fadtory in Japan for fourteen years, during which period he 
 had been four times in the capacity of Embaffador to the court, 
 
 * There :ire fcveral good manufcript Chinefe difllonaries in Enc^land ; one 
 of wliich is under publication by DoiSlor Montucci ; who, I underftand from 
 good authority, by many years of indefatigable application, hasfuccceJed in writing 
 the characfters with great neatnefs and accuracy ; and is well qualllied in other 
 refpefts for the undertaking, in which, it is to be hoped, he may meet with fuitable 
 tncouragement. 
 
 3 yet,
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 617 
 
 yet, on being aflced the name of the Emperor of Japan, freely 
 avowed that it had never occurred to him to afk it. In faiSt, 
 his grand objed was the accumulation of fo many mHHons of 
 florins in a given time ; in the purfuit of which he had com- 
 pletely loft fight of the Emperor of Japan and his millions of 
 fubjciVq. 
 
 If then, by negle£ting to ftudy the language of the Chinefe, 
 we are filly enough to place ourfelves and concerns fo com- 
 pletely in their power, we are highly deferving of the extortions 
 and iinpofuions fo loudly complained of. If the trade of 
 London was exclufively vefted in the hands of eight merchants^ 
 and if the foreigners who vifited its port could neither fpeak 
 nor write one fingle word of the language of England, but 
 communicated folely on every fubjedt with thofe eight mer- 
 chants, through a broken jargon fomewhat refembling the 
 languages of the feveral foreigners, it might fairly be quef- 
 tioned, without any difparagement to the merchants of Lon- 
 don, if thofe foreigners would have lefs reafon of complaint 
 than the Europeans have who now trade to China ? Even as 
 things are, would a Chinefe arriving in England find no fubjeft 
 of complaint, no grievances nor vexations at the cuflom-houle, 
 which, for want of knowing our language, he might be apt 
 to confider as extortions and impofitions ? Two years ago two 
 Chinefe mlffionaries landed in England, in their way to the 
 college de propaganda Fide at Naples. Each had a fmall bundle 
 of clothes under his arm and, according to the cuftom of 
 their country, a fan in his hand. Being obferved by one of 
 thofe voracious fharks who, under the pretext of preventing 
 
 4 K frauds
 
 6i8 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 frauds on the revenue, plunder unproteded foreigners and 
 convert the booty to their own advantage, the poor fellows 
 were ftripped by him of the little property they carried in their 
 hands, and were not, without difficulty, allowed to efcape with 
 the clothes on their backs. Can we blame thefe people for 
 reprefenting us as a barbarous, unfeeling, and inhofpitaWc 
 nation, ho^vever undeferving we may be of fuch a cha- 
 rader ? 
 
 * 
 Our cafe at Canton is pretty nearly the fame as that of the 
 
 two Chinefe miffionaries. Every petty officer of the govern- 
 ment knows he can pradife impofitions on our trade with im- 
 punity, becaufe we have not the means of bringing his villainy 
 to the knowledge of his fuperiors. For, how great foever 
 may be the propenfity of the Chinefe people to fraud and 
 extortion, I have little doubt of the juftice and moderation 
 of the Chinefe government, when the cafe is properly repre- 
 fented. A recent circumftance may be mentioned in fupport 
 of this opinion. In the year 1801, a failor on board his 
 Majefty's fliip the Madras fired upon and mortally wounded a 
 Chinefe who was paffing in a boat. A difcuffion, as ufual, 
 took place with the Chinefe government ; but it was conduced 
 in a very different manner from what had hitherto been ufual 
 on fimllar occafions. Inftead of entering into any explanation 
 or defence through the medium of the Hong merchants, who 
 tremble at the loweft officer of government, a memorial was 
 addreffed to the Viceroy, drawn up in a proper and becoming 
 manner by the prefent Sir George Staunton, the only Englifhman 
 in the Company's fervice who was fkilled in the Chinefe language. 
 
 Several
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 619 
 
 Several converfations were alfo held on the fubjcd with the 
 officers of juftice, from which the Hong merchants were ex- 
 cluded. Captain Dllkes fetting up a plea of recrimination 
 on the ground of fome Chinefe having cut his cable with an 
 intent to fteal it, the government afTented to have the matter 
 tried in the fuprcme court of juftice in the city of Canton. By 
 the law of China, if the wounded perfon furvive forty days, 
 the fentence of death is commuted for that of banifhment into 
 the wilds of Tartary ; yet fo favourably did the court incline 
 to the fide of the accufed in this inftance, that although the 
 time was not expired, and there was little hope of the wounded 
 man recovering, they allowed Captain Dilkes to take the fea- 
 man into his own cuftody, requiring only that he fliould leave 
 in court a written promife to produce him in cafe the wounded 
 fhould not furvive the time prefcribed by law. The man 
 lingered near fifty days and then died, upon which a meflage 
 was fent by the court, intimating to the Captain, that the 
 court faw no impropriety, in this inftance, in leaving it to him 
 to punifti the delinquent according to the laws of his own 
 country ; thus, for the firft time, affenting to fet afide a pofi- 
 tive law in favour of foreigners. By this proper mode of 
 interference an Englifli fubje£t was faved from an unjuft and 
 ignominious death, which would otherwife inevitably have hap- 
 pened, as on all former occafions of a fimilar kind, had the affair 
 been left in the hands of men whofe intereft it is to reprefent 
 us as barbarians, and who, however well they might be dif- 
 pofed, have not the courage to plead our caufe. Hitherto the 
 Chinefe have invariably made a point of executing immedi- 
 ately, and without a regular trial, any foreigner who fhould 
 
 4 K 2 kill
 
 f;20 
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 kill a Chlnefe, or fome fubftkute in the place of the a£lual cri- 
 minal, as I have already inftanced in the feventh chapter. One 
 of the moft intelligent of the Eaft India Company's fervants at 
 Canton, fpeaking on this fubjedl, in anfwer to certain queries 
 propofed to him about the time of the Embafly, remarks, " I 
 " cannot help obferving, that the fituation of the Company's 
 " fervants and the trade in general is, in this rcfpedl, very 
 " dangerous and difgraceful. It is fuch that it will be impof- 
 " fible for them to extricate themfelves from the cruel dilemma 
 " a very probable accident may place them in^ I will not fay 
 " with honour^ but without infamy^ or expofing the whole 
 " trade to ruin." Yet we have juft now feen, on the recur- 
 rence of fuch an accident, that by the circumftance of a diredl 
 and immediate communication with the government, the affair 
 was terminated, not only without difgrace or infamy, but in a 
 way that was honourable to both parlies.
 
 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 621 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 I HAVE now gone over inoft of the points relative to 
 which I have been able to recoiled the remarks and obferva- 
 tions which arofe in my mind during my attendance on this 
 memorable Embaffy. The compariibns I have made were 
 given with a view of alTifting the reader to form in his own 
 mind fome idea what rank the Chinefe may be confidercd to 
 hold, when meafured by the fcale of European nations ; but 
 this part is very defedive. To have made it complete would 
 require more time and more reading, than at prefent I could 
 command. The confideration of other objedts, thofe of a po- 
 litical nature, which are of the mofl ferious importance to our 
 interefts in China, is more particularly the province of thofe in 
 a different fphere, and would, therefore, be improper for me to 
 anticipate or prejudge, by any conjcdtures of my own. It be- 
 longs to other perfons, and perhaps to other times * ; but it is to 
 be hoped that the information, refledions, and opinions of the 
 Embaffador himfelf, may one day be fully communicated to the 
 public, when the prefent objedions to it fliall ceafe, and the 
 moment arrive (which is probably not very diftant) that will 
 enable us to ad upon the ideas of that nobleman's capacious and 
 enlightened mind, and to prove to the world that the late Em- 
 baffy, by Ihewing the charader and dignity of the Britifh na- 
 
 * This was written at the dofe of the year J803. 
 
 I tlon
 
 622 TRAVELS IN CHINA. 
 
 tion in a new and fplendld light, to a court and people In a 
 great meafure ignorant of them before, however mifrepre- 
 fented by the jealoufy and envy of rivals, or impeded by the 
 counteradion of enemies, has laid an excellent foundation for 
 great future advantages, and done honour to the wifdom and 
 forefight of the .ftatefman * who planned the meafure, and di- 
 refted its execution. 
 
 * The Lord Vifcount Melville. 
 
 INDEX.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 y^BJKis, the flying arrow of - 40 
 Africa, coaftof, known to the Phenicians 48 
 Agriculture, an honourable profeffion 397 
 ■ of Pe-tche-lee 
 
 of Shan lung 
 
 oi Kiang-nan 
 
 terrace fyftem of 
 
 554 
 
 554 
 561 
 
 568 
 
 Jir fung by Chinefe boatmen 81 
 
 Almanack, national - - 284 
 
 Almejda, a Portiiguefe Jefuit, malignant 
 
 fpirit of - - 19 
 
 Alphabet of the Mantchoo language 272 
 American Indians refemble the Chinefe 44 
 traders; how confidered at 
 
 Canton 
 
 Amplification, Chinefe example of 
 
 Ancients unacquainted with China 
 
 Anni-ver/ary of the Emperor of China's 
 birth-d ly 
 
 Anfon'i voyage, character of Chinefe 
 in the account of - - 
 
 A'ltij-iary, curious miflake of one 
 
 Appeal, none in civil caufes 
 
 Arbitrary power, inftance of 
 
 Arch, very ancient in Chinefe architec- 
 ture 
 thofe called triumphal 
 
 593 
 
 36 
 
 435 
 
 196 
 
 27 
 258 
 277 
 
 85 
 
 339 
 
 95 
 
 Archipelago of Chu-fan, violent currents in 54 
 
 rACE 
 
 ArchiteHure of the palace of Yutn-min- 
 
 yuen . - 124 
 , ftyle of, in landfcape gar- 
 dening - - 135 
 
 , general obfervations on 330 
 
 , monumental - 339 
 
 Arithmetic _ - 206 
 
 Armenian and his pearl - - 6 1 1 
 
 Army cllablilhment . _ 40C 
 
 , how employed - - 408 
 
 AJlronomy . . - 281IL 
 
 , ignorance of the Chinefe in 290 
 
 Authority, parental, bafis of Chinefe go- 
 vernment - _ 3^9 
 
 B 
 
 Babcom, an Armenian, trick played by 
 
 him at Canton - . 612 
 
 Bamboo, the pradlice of flogging with, 
 
 inftanced _ . . i5i 
 
 , general utility of this plant 309 
 
 , reflexions on the puniflimenc of 380 
 
 , compared with that of the knout 
 
 in Ruflia - . J83 
 
 Bedford, Duke of, his portrait in "China 1 15 
 Beverage of life • _ 464 
 
 Bijhop of Pekin, his vifit to I'uen.min-yuen 1 1 o 
 Books, ancient ones of China - 276 
 
 Breakfaji, Chinefe - - 89 
 
 Briareus of China • - 47 1 
 
 Brid;et
 
 624 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bridges 
 
 , one of ninetj'-one arches 
 
 Budba, compared witli Fo 
 Burying- ground 
 
 PAGE 
 
 337 
 520 
 
 - 468 
 
 - 497 
 
 Calendar, natloniil, an ennine of go- 
 vernment - -391 
 Camellia Se/anqua - - 53^ 
 CameloparJalis, noticed by Marco Polo 46 
 
 CanaJ, Imperial - "335 
 
 — — obfervations on 506 — 512 
 
 Cannon - - " ^99 
 
 CantcK, reafons for the Embaffy avoid- 
 ing it - - 33 
 
 , fituatioD of foreigners trading 
 to it - - 610 
 
 Carriages of the Chinefe defcribed 90 
 
 , thofe made by Hatchett puzzle 
 
 them - .113 
 
 Ca-valry, Tartar - - 410 
 
 Cenforate - " 3^3 
 
 Cif'vwjo/y of the Court - • zi. 
 
 Chain- pump - - 3 « I 
 
 ChaaSer, phyfical, as given by Linnaus 
 
 not correct • - 1 84 
 , moral, of Chinefe and Tar- 
 tars - - 186 
 CharaStrs of the Chinefe language 24S 
 
 , keys or roots of - 25 1 
 
 , examples of tlie compofition 
 
 of - .. 255 
 
 Ckafiitj, palace of - "235 
 
 Chemical Arts - - 298 
 
 Checks to the abfolute power of the Em- 
 peror - - 362 
 Children ftill-born expofed in the (Ireets 176 
 Chou-ta-gin - - 70 
 
 PAGt 
 
 Chou-ta-gin, .kind attentions of 604 
 
 Chrijiian Religion might once have been 
 
 introduced - - 440 
 
 Churchmen, intrigues of, not eafdy ob- 
 viated - - 18 
 C/ffg-a/f/?, of Chinefe origin - 53 
 Cities of China, walls, towers, and gates of 9 1 
 
 • , obfervations on - 5^^° 
 
 Cleanlinefs no part of the Chinefe cha- 
 
 radter - .7^ 
 
 Cock-fighting - - 1 59 
 
 Ccfiins, fplendid appearance of . - 95 
 Collieries - - 59+ 
 
 Commerce of the Yellow Sea, how car- 
 ried on - - 60 
 CoOT^i/v defcribed - - 201 
 
 , extraordinary fcene in one 22 1 
 
 Comparifon ot China and Europe 20 
 
 of a Chinefe and a Hottentot 49 
 
 Compafs, an original invention of Chinefe 39 
 
 , obfervations on - - 6t 
 
 , explanation of the circles on ()Z 
 
 Conchifioyt - - 62 1 
 
 Conduct of Chinefe prepofletling 80 
 
 Confucius, religion of - - 451 
 
 , no ftatues to the memory of 458 
 
 ' , hall of - _ 4.59 
 
 Cork Con-vent - - ^97 
 
 Corvorant, the fifhing - - 506 
 
 Cottons, manufaflures of • 307 
 
 ' , cultivation of the plant - 556 ~ 
 
 Court of China, forms of, immutable 21 
 
 , manners and amufementsof 19 1 
 
 Crimes and punijhments - "367 
 
 Criminal offences, mode of tria.1 for 370 
 
 Cro-iud of per/on s at Ting-hat - z-j 
 
 - axTien-fing - 78 
 
 at Tong-tchoo - 86 
 
 • in Pekin - - 96 
 
 Cruelty
 
 INDEX. 
 
 625 
 
 rACi 
 Cruelty, inftance of - 161 
 
 Cryftal lenfc! - . - 341 
 Cuckoo-clocks . -181 
 Currents, violence of, in Chu-fan Archi- 
 pelago - - 54 
 C!(^c;« refpeifling Embaffiidors - 22 
 Cvjiems and drefs not fubjei5ls of ri- 
 dicule - - - 74 
 C/f/f of iixty years - - 293 
 
 D 
 
 FAGE 
 
 E 
 
 Daughters always fold 
 
 Day ofreji, policy of obferving one 
 
 Decimal Arithmetic 
 
 Deity not perfonified in China 
 
 Deluge, univerfal tradition of 
 
 Deodiito, an Italian mifllonary 
 
 Dipartmejtls, public 
 
 Defcartes, his idea of prolonging life 
 
 Dignities, perfonal 
 
 Dtfpojitions, natural, altered by influence 
 
 of laws 
 Dijiillation of Seau-tchoo 
 Dranui, ftate of the - - 
 
 — — —- , extraordinary fubjedl of one 
 — — — , obfcenities of, compared to 
 
 thofe of Theodora 
 , abfurdities of, fimilar to thofe 
 
 '45 
 "54 
 
 457 
 
 43^ 
 
 107 
 
 365 
 466 
 
 I Co 
 
 2lii 
 222 
 
 "3 
 
 224 
 
 of the amphitheatres 
 Dre/s of the Chinefe 
 
 Dutch Embafladors humiliating con- 
 
 duift of - ■ 9 
 
 . — , their milEons not 
 
 calculated to make terms • 13 
 
 Da/»Vj levied at- Canton - - 6f3 
 
 Ebrieiy, not a Chincfc vice 152 
 
 EclipJ'e of the moon, obfcrvance of 216 
 
 , ceremony on occafion of 28j 
 
 Egyptian mythology in China explained 424 
 
 deities compared with Chinefe 477 
 
 Embaffador, Englifh, proceeds to Gehol 104 
 rcfufes to fubniit to 
 
 the ceremony 1 17 
 
 ■ his introdudioa at 
 
 court - 196 
 
 — his hotel in Pekin 332 
 
 Embaffadors, Dutch, treatment oi, m 
 Canton 
 
 - — lodged in a ftable at Pekin 
 
 ■ reception of, at Court 
 
 vifit Yuenminyuen 
 
 Embajpes, Dutch and Englilh, different 
 
 treatment of, explained 
 from Europe in the lad cen- 
 tury ... 
 Embaffy, Englifli, a neceflary meafure 
 
 , attention of the Chinefe to 
 
 , expencc of, to the Chinefe go- 
 vernment 
 
 , cxpence of, to the Britifli go- 
 
 vcrnment 
 Emperor of China laughs at Van Braam's 
 aukwardnefs 
 
 confiders Enib;ifladors 
 
 9 
 II 
 
 208 
 215 
 
 '7 
 23 
 
 22 
 604 
 
 605 
 
 608 
 
 '3 
 
 as his guells - - 22 
 
 , an obfervation of 104 
 
 . obeifance to, on his 
 
 birth-day . - 116 
 
 infpeifJs the prefents 1 19 
 
 , life and charader of 226 
 
 caufes the death of his 
 
 Emprefs and fon - . 226 
 
 4 ^ Emfertr
 
 626 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 £mptror of China concs\vt% the deity to 
 
 be incarnate iii him - - 228 
 
 ~" , Jiis otlelnpraife of tea :8o 
 
 * ■ ■ , obfervations of, on the 
 
 mechanical powers - -212 
 
 *" , maxims on which he 
 
 ads - - - 360 
 , checks to the abfolute 
 
 power of - - 362 
 
 » patronizes agriculture 399 
 
 ■ ■ , inftances of gratitude 
 
 in - - - 482 
 
 EncychpcJifls, French, their teftimonyof 
 
 the Chinefe chai-afler - 26 
 
 E/prit des Loix, falfe conclufions drawn in I48 
 £/>iW»g-/Va/ deduflions fallacious 241 
 
 Eunuchs, bad charafter of - .230 
 
 Expellee of the Embaffy, to the Englifli 
 
 and Chinefe governments 6^^ 
 
 Eje of the Chinefe remarkable 49 
 
 Face of the country near the Pel-ho 70 
 
 Failure of the Embafly, fuppofed reafon 
 
 of, ftated - - 8 
 
 Famimi attempted to be explained 584 
 
 Feet distorted of Chinefe women 73 
 
 . not noticed by early travellers 75 
 
 difficult to account for - 7^ 
 
 Feafts - - - ^55 
 
 Ferry-girls - • ' 5'^S 
 
 Feniers, contagious, not frequent 349 
 
 Filial duty, a precept rather than a fen- 
 
 timent • • - 143 
 
 Fire ivoris defcribeJ 
 
 - 206 
 
 Fijhing, various modes of 
 
 - 533 
 
 Fificrmen, condiaon of 
 
 - C58 
 
 Fo, religion of 
 
 - 468 
 
 Fonmja, ft rait of 
 
 - 34 
 
 Four fsas, an ancient expreflion 
 
 H 
 
 Fo-Jkee, the lines of 
 
 - 277 
 
 Francifcan convent in Madeira 
 
 - 59« 
 
 Frvitirees, how propagated 
 
 - 569 
 
 Funrrals 
 
 - 483 
 
 Gi^OT^^ of Chance - - 157 
 
 Ganga compared vi-ith Egyptian and 
 
 Chinefe deities - . 472 
 
 Gardening, general account of, by Lord 
 
 Macartney - - '3' 
 
 Gardens o'i Tuen-min-yueti, fome account of 122 
 Ga/i^j of Chinefe cities - - 92 
 
 Gehol, appointed fur the celebration of 
 
 the birth day - - 104 
 
 • , park of, defcribed by Lord Ma- 
 
 cartney 
 
 126 
 
 Gw^a compared with Janus dLndMen-fnin /^6^ 
 Geological ohjcr^vaiiant . • 42.9 
 
 Geometry and geography little underftood 295 
 Gill's fword-bladcs, acceptable prefenrs 1 13 
 Giraffe, or Camelopardalis, noticed by 
 
 Marco Polo - - 46 
 
 Gla/s - - - 305 
 
 Gouernment, the pride of - - 20 
 
 • ftability of, accounted for 359 
 
 Go'vernor oi Chu-fan, arbitrary proceed- 
 ing of - - - 49 
 Grammar of Chinefe language - 267 
 
 Grammont,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 627 
 
 Gratnmont, Monfieur, his letter to the 
 
 Dutch - - - . 7 
 
 Great Britain and China, compared as 
 
 to their extent and popuhition 576 
 
 Gunpirvjdcr _ . . 300 
 
 H 
 
 Hager, Doiflor, remarks on the publi- 
 cation of - - 239 
 ' miftake of - ' '^SZ 
 Hang-tchoo-foo, alarm created in, by three 
 
 Englifhmen 
 
 - 526 
 
 Hatchstl's carriages puzzle the Chinefe i 1 3 
 Herodotus approves the ciiftom of felling 
 
 women - - 140 
 
 Hieroglyphical wrWmg, Chinefe charac- 
 
 ter different from 
 Hills of PttLbe-lee, charaiSer of 
 Hindoo and Chinefe features totally dif- 
 ferent - - - 
 Hifiory of China, why fo little known 
 Homer degrades women 
 Homicide puniflied with death 
 Honour, high notions of, incompatible 
 
 witli defpotifm 
 Ho-tcbang-tong, the iiiiniiler, anecdote of 183 
 
 ■■ trial and condemnation of 387 
 
 Hottentots, refemblance of, to the Chinefe 48 
 
 portrait of one,compared with 
 
 a Chinefe - . . r© 
 
 Humiliation of the Dutch Embafladors 9 
 
 =37 
 64 
 
 427 
 
 357 
 140 
 368 
 
 179 
 
 PACE 
 
 Idolatry, one caufc of . 4.85 
 
 JciuiJ}} law punilhing children for their 
 
 fathers - - - 375 
 
 Jtiut might have carried the filk worm 
 
 to Cliina - . .27 
 
 , remarks on thefe people - 438 
 
 Immortals, fons of, a fed iu China 463 
 
 Imprifonment not known as a punirtiment 378 
 Incenfe burnt before the Chinefe eompafs 42 
 Infanticide, remarks on - - 168 
 
 . extent of, in China - 169 
 
 common among the ancients 171 
 
 , probable caufes of 
 
 Inns, none in China 
 
 In/criplion on the flags of the yachts 
 
 thofe on monuments 
 
 Inundations . . . 
 
 Jones, Sir William, his opinion of the 
 
 Chinefe 
 
 «73 
 421 
 
 326 
 J '5 
 
 - n 
 of their arts, fciences, 
 
 - 35S 
 
 Ireland, peafantry of, compared with 
 
 thofe of China - . r^g 
 
 Iron-ixiarc - . - 2c8 
 
 Italian opera, Chinefe drama a burlcfque 
 
 0" - - - 219 
 
 Ivory, cutting of . . jog 
 
 &c. 
 
 H 
 
 Kamjkatka, known to the Chinefe 
 King of Holland, Emp»ror's letter ad 
 
 drefled to . - 4? 
 
 Ue, a luxury enjoyed by the poor near Lake of Hang.tcboofoo 
 
 Pekin - - . 10^ Lama, religion of, in China 
 
 4 I. 2 
 
 - 523 
 
 - 464 
 Leinguage^
 
 62S 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 TAGE 
 
 Language, Chinefe writtea charafler of 236 
 
 , method of ftudyiug 159 
 
 .. .^— ■ , colloqul&l - 264 
 
 , number of words in 265 
 
 -, grammar of -67 
 
 ■ , Mantchoo Tartar - 270 
 
 , fooner loft than 
 
 religious opinions 405 
 
 -.. inconvenience attending our 
 
 ignorance of, at Canton 6 1 5 
 Lanterns, feaft of - - 4^ + 
 
 La<w, one of an extraordinary nature 165 
 
 , effeas of this law - - 166 
 
 , a curious cafe of - - 373 
 
 Lotus, code of - - - 366 
 
 Lens of Mr. Parker - - 342 
 
 Leibnitz, binary arithmetic of - 277 
 
 Letter of M. Grummont to the Dutch 
 
 faftory - - - 7 
 of the Emperor of China to the 
 
 King of Holland - - H 
 
 Literature - - - 274 
 
 Lonvang, one of the Chu-fan iflands 36 
 
 Lo'wtber-ball, grounds of, compared to 
 
 the park of Gehol - - i34 
 
 M 
 
 Macao, furmife with regard to - so 
 
 Macartney, Lord, his account of Chinefe 
 
 gardening - - 126 
 
 . of the birth-day 
 
 ceremonies - - '9^ 
 
 ____ . , his obfervations on the 
 
 Tartars and Chinefe - 415 
 
 Madaga/car, a people on, refembling the 
 
 Chinefe - - 45 
 
 Madrid, ftrange notion of the inhabi- 
 tants of - - - 99 
 
 rAGB 
 Mahomedans vifit China in the ninth cen- 
 tury - - - 47 
 
 get into the interior in the 
 
 thiiteenth century - - 442 
 
 AMy^ of Scythian origin - 51 
 
 Man-midiui'ves, none in China - 353 
 
 A/an»i.')-j of domeftic life - - 142 
 
 , a concern of the legislature 178 
 ■ ■ and amufements of the court 191 
 
 Munsfdd, Lord, his obfervation on 
 
 early rifers - - 229 
 
 Manichoo Tartars, probably a mixed race 1 85 
 
 —^ , language of - 270 
 
 , policy of - 412 
 
 Manure, an article of commerce 84 
 
 Marco Pole, fuppofed to have brought the 
 
 compafs from China - 40 
 
 Match-locks, why preferred to fire-locks 41 1 
 Mechanical powers - -311 
 
 Medicine, (late of - - 344 . 
 
 Meetings of the people rare - 336 
 
 Merchants, how confidered in China 180 
 
 Micare digitis, ■i.'R.omin gM-nt - 158 
 
 Michael de Murano, chart in the church 
 
 of - - - 47 
 
 Military, eftablifhment of, &c. - 405- 
 
 . , ciurious mauccvivre of - 504 
 
 Minijler of State, miferable lodgings of 109 
 MiJJionaries, remarks on the communi- 
 cations of - - 3 — 28 — 31 
 
 accompanied by fpies when 
 
 they vifited the Englifli - loj 
 
 , ftory of an infant faved by 
 
 one - - - '74- 
 , condition of thofe in the ca- 
 pital - - ■ 445 
 caufe their own perfecu- 
 
 tions - - - 446 
 
 MiJ/ionarieSi
 
 INDEX. 
 
 629 
 
 PACE 
 
 Mijiviarits iinjulljr accufe the Chinefe 
 
 of fuptr.litions - - 462 
 
 Mollu/ca-medufaf an article of food 55 
 Mongul Tartars^ benefit derived by their 
 
 coiiqueft of China - - 4j 
 
 Meniiments, infcriptions on • 3J9 
 
 erefted over the dead 340 
 
 Mouni^i^i aCcended for religious pur- 
 
 pofes - - - 451 
 
 — — — , nature of thofe of China 59^ 
 
 Mufic - - • 3'4 
 
 , fpecimensof - - 318 
 
 Mufical injlrumenti, plate of. - 3 ' 5 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Oljiai that occur in China - 4 
 
 OccurrtHcei in the Yellow Sea 25 
 
 Office obtained only by learning 386 
 
 — — of government, civil - 404 
 
 — — — , military 406 
 
 Officers of Canton, condufl of, towards 
 
 the Dutch - - 10 
 Opium much ufed in China - 153 
 Opihalmia - " 3S ' 
 Ornamental buildings in landfcape gar- 
 dening - - - J 29 
 Or/^«» of China, remarks on - 220 
 
 N 
 
 Ktnions, who had early intercourfe vith 
 
 China ... 
 Navis'^''"" of the Yellow Sea unknown 
 of the Chinefe untkilfal 
 
 ■ — inland, improved by the Tar- 
 
 tars 
 
 440 
 
 33 
 38 
 
 43 
 Nautical Almanac, a valuable prefent to 
 
 the miflionaries in Pekia - 112 
 
 Kelumbium, or water lilly - - 473 
 
 NfW-year' s-dajiyths only holiday in China 155 
 Neah, fuppofeJ by the Jefuits to have 
 
 travelled into China - - 4^3 
 
 — — ark of, where it probably reftsd 432 
 
 O 
 
 Oary3«g-of the Chinefe - - 8r 
 
 Oaif>, form of, among the Chinefe and 
 
 Sumatrans - - 52 
 
 — — never adminiftered in a Chinefe 
 
 court of law - - H. 
 
 Pagodas, obfervations on 
 
 Paine, Tom, his doiflrines too fublime 
 for the Chinefe language 
 
 Painting - . - 
 
 Palaces of China worfe than Saint 
 James's 
 
 Pantctr.ime defcribed 
 
 Paper, manufafture of 
 
 Park of Gehol defcribed by Lord Ma- 
 cartney - . 
 
 Pauiu, his opinion of the Chinefe 
 
 Pea/antry, condition of - 
 
 Pearl, ftory of one belonging to an 
 Armenian 
 
 Pei-ho, entrance of 
 
 ' fecond embarkation oa 
 
 Pekin, approach tcr . 
 
 , f(.me acconnt of - . 
 
 , uncommon buttle in the great 
 
 ftreets of 
 
 , populace of, compared with 
 
 that of London 
 
 J police of - 
 
 - 503 
 
 396 
 323 
 
 194 
 203 
 310 
 
 129 
 
 310 
 
 6.1 
 
 68 
 
 488 
 
 y3 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 103 
 
 Pekin
 
 6^c 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pekin, uniformity of - - 
 , hotel of the Brilifh EmbafTador 
 
 in - - - 
 
 — •, appearance of, from Hai-tien 
 — , hue and cry raifed in 
 
 , gazette of - - 
 
 , contrafted with London 
 
 , prices of provifions in 
 
 , buildings and population of, 
 
 compared with thofe of London 
 Peroufe dt la, his account of a people 
 
 refeiTibling Chinefe 
 Pilots, difliculry of procuring them at 
 
 Chu-fan 
 Plants, in Pe iche-lee 
 . , near Hang-tchoo-foo • - 
 
 .^ , near CiUiton 
 
 Plough, ceremony of, compared with 
 
 the IJia 
 Poetry - - - 
 
 Polarity of the magnet known to the 
 
 Scythians 
 Police of Pekin 
 
 Polo Marco, valuable teftimony of 
 Polygamy an evil of fmall extent 
 Population of floating craft 
 
 I— '— and extent of China 
 
 , compared with thofe of 
 
 Great Britain 
 
 as given by Father Amiot 
 
 PAGE 
 101 
 
 Pvpuloufnejs of China, caufes of 
 Poor laivs, none 
 Porcelane - - 
 
 Portraits of a Chinefe and Hottentot 
 ■ - among the prefents, difficulty 
 
 refpefting 
 Portugue/i miffionary, intrigues of 
 Pofture-majlers, feats of 
 Potatott a certain crop 
 
 - lOJ 
 
 ib. 
 
 120 
 
 - 39' 
 
 - 4?o 
 
 - 549 
 
 S8. 
 4+ 
 
 493 
 5'5 
 601 
 
 487 
 
 4« 
 
 lOo 
 
 35 
 
 147 
 8+ 
 
 575 
 
 576 
 
 582 
 
 587 
 401 
 
 304 
 50 
 
 114 
 
 18 
 
 204 
 
 585 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Poverty of the Chinefe - - 495 
 
 Predeftination • - 454 
 
 Prejent of the governor of Ten tchoo-foo 65 
 Pre/ent of the officers deputed from 
 
 court - - 67 
 
 Prc/s, liberty of, in China - 392 
 
 PnW* of the blood, anecdote of 182 
 Printing ^'- %■ - -311 
 
 ProceJJ^on fiom Tong-tchoo to Pekin 85 
 
 of - - - 746 
 
 /"ro/^r/ji not fecured by law - 177 
 
 — laws refpefting - - 379 
 
 Prophecy, folly of being guided by - 456 
 
 Pul/e - - - 345 
 
 Punijhments, capital, not frequent - 378 
 
 Puppet-Jhew defcribed - - 201 
 
 ^lacks, tricks of - - 347 
 
 . , great pefts in England - 46; 
 
 parries of ftone - - 598 
 
 Red-bock, Chinefe - - 405 
 
 Religion, priniitive, of China - 450 
 
 — .— , no longer exifts 486 
 
 Religious opinions, difficult fometimes 
 
 to explain - '4^3 
 
 Revenues • - 403 
 
 . application of them - 407 
 
 veflels to colleft them - 534 
 
 Rice erroneoufly fuppofed to caufe op- 
 
 thalmia 
 the ftafF of life in China 
 
 ^— mill for cleaning 
 
 a precarious crop 
 
 Road from Tong-tchoo to Pekin 
 Roads neglefted in China 
 
 - 351 
 547 
 
 ■ 5^S 
 
 - 586 
 
 91 
 
 - 513 
 
 Romans,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 631 
 
 Rotiam, ainphitlieatres of 
 RuJJia and China compared 
 
 Sabbatical \jx^C\t\it\on, none in China 
 
 Sacrifices • . - 
 
 Salt, (lacks of, near Ticnfing 
 
 remarks on the uff of 
 
 Salutation, mode of - - 
 
 , exprcflions of, mark a na- 
 tional charafler 
 
 Samene/s throughout China 
 
 Savages, cuftom of maiming the hu- 
 man body among 
 
 Scenic reprefentations of the Romans 
 
 Scythians probably acquainted with 
 the polarity of the magnet 
 
 Scorpion, remarkable circumftancc con- 
 cr-rnins one 
 
 Scott, Doilor, faves a man from be- 
 ing buried alive 
 
 Sculpture - • 
 
 Seres not the fame ns Cliinefe 
 
 Shing mco, or holy mother 
 
 Ships of the Chinefe 
 
 Si/i, probably known to the ancients 
 
 • , cultivation of - - 
 
 Simplicity the leading feature of the 
 Chinefe 
 
 Skating, amufement of - - 
 
 Small-pox, when introduced 
 
 Snake, bite of, how cured 
 
 Society, (late of • - 
 
 , domeftic 
 
 Soff:ila, Chinefe found ac - - 
 
 Song oi Mao-lee-ijoha 
 
 Streets of Pekin 
 
 Steam, effefts of, known to the Chi- 
 nefe 
 
 iSft^ar-mills ... 
 
 Suicide feemingly encouraged 
 
 PAGE 
 
 3H 
 
 Surgery, ftate of - - 
 Sumairans of Chinefe Origin 
 
 rAGB 
 
 353 
 S' 
 
 
 Siuord blades of Gill much admired 
 
 '«3 
 
 
 Sivaa-pan • - • 
 
 296 
 
 '5+ 
 5^9 
 
 T 
 
 
 78 
 
 7a//, or Chinefe altar 
 
 45* 
 
 510 
 
 Taotzc, or immortals, {ed of 
 
 466 
 
 ic8 
 
 Tapiirs burnt on altars 
 
 481 
 
 
 Tui /or women, drefs of 
 
 ■ 97 
 
 189 
 5 
 
 - Mantchoo, fcarcely diftinguifii- 
 able from Chinefe 
 
 184 
 
 '3 
 224 
 
 Tartary, heights of, remarks on 
 
 Tafte 
 
 Taxes, moderate 
 
 438 
 
 331 
 400 
 
 40 
 114 
 
 ,65 
 
 328 
 436 
 
 473 
 
 37 
 437 
 57« 
 
 312 
 1, 1 
 
 45° 
 348 
 '38 
 151 
 4^" 
 316 
 
 94 
 
 298 
 
 539 
 
 178 
 
 , fixed 
 
 Tcho ka, an ifland in the Tartarian 
 fca 
 
 Tea a fuppofed preventive of certain 
 diforders 
 
 Tea plant, trick played by the Chi- 
 nefe concerning 
 
 , obfervations on the culture of 
 
 Temfle, Embalfy lodged in a - • 
 
 , in a cavernous rock 
 
 Tirracffy ft cm of agriculture 
 
 Ten choofoo, prefent of the governor 
 of - - - 
 
 Tien Jing, approach to the city of 
 
 ling hui, vifit to the city of 
 
 Tingnan-tching, name of the Chinefe 
 conipafs 
 
 Tit/mg Dutch Embaflador to Pekin 
 
 Tonuers of the walls of Pekin 
 
 Trackers of the yachts preffed into 
 this fervice 
 
 Trade difcouraged 
 
 how condufted at Canton 
 
 Tranquillity, internal 
 
 Tra-villers fee objeifts diflferently 
 
 7Vf«/o« punilhable in the 9th generation 372 
 
 Ttial 
 
 40» 
 
 4+ 
 
 350 
 
 538 
 57= 
 421 
 596 
 530 
 
 65 
 7' 
 57 
 
 40 
 
 y 
 
 9' 
 
 162 
 
 399 
 610 
 
 395 
 3
 
 632 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PiGE 
 
 Trial of an Englifh feaman for killing 
 
 a Chinefe - - 618 
 
 7V/^fl«a/ of Mathematics - - no 
 
 fome account of - -in 
 
 Typhoon, what - * 34 
 
 • , ftrength of one - - 41 
 
 Tyrus, commerce of, defcribed by 
 
 Ezekiel - - - 48 
 
 FACE 
 
 w 
 
 Van Braam, application of, to Batavia 8 
 
 happy turn of mind of 13 
 
 his account of an Imperial 
 
 banquet - - - 210 
 
 Vanity, national, of the Chinefe - 189 
 
 Van ia-gin - - - 70 
 
 kind attentions of - 604 
 
 Variina compared with Neptune and 
 
 Hai-vang - - - 470 
 
 Venereal Aifciifnot common - 352 
 
 Viceroy of Canton, haughty conduft of i o 
 . fwallows his fnuiF- 
 
 box - - - '79 
 
 Villa belonging to the Emperor - loa 
 
 Virgin Mary and Shing-moo compared 472 
 Vijhna compared with Jupiter and Lui- 
 
 Jhin ' • - 470 
 Vifiting Tickets very ancient in China 1 90 
 Vijilers zt Tuen min-yuen - - iio 
 Vocabulary, brief one of Chinefe words 243 
 Volcanic produifts not found in China 600 
 Voffius, Ifaac, his opinion of the Chinefe 26 ■ 
 
 /Ta// of China - - 33 j 
 
 ofPekin - -91 
 
 Watch made by a Chinefe - 306 
 
 Wealth expended to pamper the appetite 552 
 Weather, ftormy in the Streight of For- 
 
 mofa - - - 34 
 
 Wheel to raife water - - 540 
 
 Women, drefs and appearance of, at 
 
 Tien-feng - - - 7* 
 
 Tartar commonly feen in the 
 
 capital - . - 
 
 • reflexions on the condition of 
 
 condition of in China 
 
 employments of - . 
 
 on the Imperial eltublilhment 
 
 not prohibited from frequent- 
 ing temples - . _ 480 
 
 of Sau-tchoi-foo, appearance of 517 
 
 articles of fale - - 518 
 
 courfe features of thofe oiKiang- 
 
 fee - - - 541 
 
 Words, number of, in the Chinefe lan- 
 guage - - - 265 
 
 97 
 >38 
 
 MO 
 
 143 
 
 234 
 
 Yachts, trackers of - - 501 
 TelloiuSea, obfervations on " *J 
 — commerce of • - 60 
 
 —— river, ceremonies ufed in 
 
 croffing - - - 509 
 
 Tuen-min-yuen, miferable apartments at 108 
 
 gardens and buildings of 122 
 
 THEE N D. 
 
 Printed by A. Strihan, 
 Printtn-Sliee«. 
 
 i»
 
 university otCaWom^a,^
 
 DS 707. 827T 
 
 llllWMimnir'i 
 
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