r Early Western Travels i 748 -i 846 Volume IX Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/flintslettersfroOOflinrich Early Western Travels 1748-1846 A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, de- scriptive of the Aborigines and Social and Economic Conditions in the Middle and far West, during the Period of Early American Settlement Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D. Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's New Discovery," etc. Volume IX Flint's Letters from America, 18 18- 1820 Cleveland, Ohio The Arthur H. Clark Company 1904 Copyright 1904, by THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED fffjt fLakestot $na» R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY CHICAGO Bancroft Libr&.-y CONTENTS OF VOLUME IX Preface. The Editor 9 Letters from America, containing Observations on the Climate and Agriculture of the Western States, the Man- ners of the People, the Prospects of Emigrants, &c, &c. James Flint Dedication ....... 19 Author's Table of Contents 21 Text 25 ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME IX Facsimile of original title-page 17 Wooden fence (text cut) 40 Horse rake (text cut) 41 Buck saw (text cut) 61 Cradle scythe (text cut) 125 Island in the Ohio (text cut) 159 Typical township map (text cut) 177 Typical subdivision of a township (text cut) . . .178 PREFACE TO VOLUME IX Had all the travellers from Great Britain who visited America during the early decades of the nineteenth cen- tury been of so discriminating a temperament as the Scotchman whose work we republish as volume ix of our series, Americans might have lacked that sensitiveness that arose from unjust and flippant portrayal and criti- cism of American manners. James Flint was of a good family, had been carefully educated, and possessed a sound and just judgment, with capacity for philosophic insight. Coming to the United States to observe conditions, he depicts them with candor and good will. While confessing favorable preconcep- tions, due to a personal liking for democratic institutions, our author does not omit the shadows in his pictures; but he presents them with such dispassionate fairness that the sting of criticism is removed. Flint was particularly interested in the Middle West. Therefore, after a brief sojourn in New York and Phila- delphia, where he commented judiciously on all that made for the higher life of these two young cities, he followed the great Western thoroughfare which crossed Pennsylvania to Pittsburg, then the gateway of trans- Allegheny America. Here he purchased a skiff and floated down the Ohio, occasionally landing to make visits and observations; from Portsmouth he proceeded on a circuit through Ohio and Kentucky, settling at length at the falls of Ohio, in the Indiana town of Jeffersonville. A resident at this place for several months, his investi- i o Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 gation of Western conditions assumed a new phase. No longer the passing traveller, noting the novelties and pecu- liarities of the people, Flint began a systematic obser- vation of American institutions in general, and particu- larly the political, social, and economic life of the Middle West. In his succinct but comprehensive study of the national constitution and local state governments, he anticipates De Tocqueville and Bryce. His comments upon the judicial system show an appreciation of the stern necessities of primitive justice, coupled with the law-abid- ing spirit characteristic of the Anglo-Saxon race. His notes upon the power of public opinion as a restraining force in political life, and upon the universal veneration for the constitution, show that he discovered the fundamental principles underlying American political life. His com- prehension of the historical development of the West is remarkable for keen insight and prophetic vision. He realized what the acquisition of Louisiana had meant in dispelling the dangers of a Western secession from the republic; and showed that the true interests of the West allied her with Eastern markets. Looming large on the horizon, Flint discerned the sec- ond factor which was to rend American life. The discus- sion of the Missouri Compromise had scarce begun, but already he saw that the nation could not always exist half-slave and half-free. He saw also that the long border line forming a kind of moral boundary, was the crucial difficulty, and that the acute stage in the controversy would be reached over the question of fugitive slaves. To the present generation these seem self-evident truths; but few Americans and fewer foreigners had the keenness to perceive this before 1820. Flint, however, unlike many Englishmen of his day, was no radical condemner of slav- 1818-1820] Preface 1 i ery; he appreciated its patriarchal features and its real benefits for the negroes. He also saw that the masters suffered more deterioration by the system than the slaves; that the responsibility for the system rested not upon pres- ent, but historic conditions; and that wholesale denuncia- tion was not only unjust, but useless. In addition to his comments on this great social ques- tion, Flint throws much light on general conditions in the young West. He studies the spectacular drama of the camp-meeting revival not only from the point of pic- turesqueness, but of educational and religious develop- ment. He realizes the need of the people for education, but appreciates the provisions made therefor in public lands. Throughout the West he finds the saving remnant — people of culture and refinement, who welcome strangers with hospitality, and are laboring to erect a worthy civilization in this newest community. The social equality everywhere evident among whites pleases him, and he remarks not unkindly upon the general dislike for personal service that characterizes the ambitious West. His satire on the excess of the honorary titles of " major," ' ' colonel,' ' and " judge," as well as upon the readiness with which the "land of liberty" is vociferously proclaimed, is gentle and kindly. But all these features of Flint's work are secondary to his economic study. Not only did he prove himself a wise and trained observer, but he was a scientific econo- mist, and had come to the United States for research ma- terial. At each stage of his travels he sets forth the ratio between prices and wages, explains the industrial aspects, and the prospects for emigrants. Already, he tells us, nearly all the best land of Kentucky and Ohio is taken up. Settlement is flooding Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, 1 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 where cheap lands are yet available. He shows the sani- tary disadvantages of this newer, more reeking soil, as against the possibilities it offers to the emigrant to secure the profits of his own industry. With keen indignation he condemns the unsound banking system of the West, deprecates the booming of town sites, and the "log-roll- ing" in state legislatures. But in the face of criticism, and as though eager to forestall unfavorable judgments, he contrasts American conditions with those of Great Britain, with no undue favor for the latter, reminding his English readers that here are no boroughs to monopolize business interests, no clergymen to control education, no nobility to exact special privileges. ' 1 1 have never heard of any parson who acts as Justice of the Peace, or who intermixes his addresses to the Great Object 0} Religious Worship, with the eulogy of the Holy Alliance. . . . The farming interest has no monopoly against manufacturing: nor has the manufacturing any positive prohibition against the farmer." Free industry is the dominating factor of American life, the keystone of its prosperity. In short, we have in Flint's Letters a remarkable study of American life in the beginning of its new era, at the close of the second war with England. Charitable, com- prehending, thoughtful, he does not slur over national faults nor unduly praise local virtues. Dangers, both financial and political, are pointed out ; but the basic prin- ciples of American society are distinctly and clearly laid bare, and the progress and possibilities of the New West revealed. In the present reprint, the original edition, published in Edinburgh in 1822, has been followed; save that the Addenda given in the latter (pp. 303-330), have been 1818-1820] Preface 1 3 omitted, as being composed of material of small present importance: 1. Two letters from a Jefferson ville (Indiana) lawyer dated Dec. 20, 1820, and Aug. 1, 1821, commenting satiri- cally upon the wildcat currency of that day. 2. Three other letters, by various persons, giving an account of material progress in Indiana. 3. "The American Tariff, with alterations and addi- ions." In the preparation of this volume for the press, the Editor has had the assistance of Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph.D., Edith Kathryn Lyle, Ph.D., and Mr. Archer Butler Hulbert. R. G. T. Madison, Wis., October, 1904. Flint's Letters from America — 1818-1820 Reprint of the original edition: Edinburgh, 1822 LETTERS AMERICA, CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS ON THE CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURE OF THE WESTERN STATES, THE MANNERS OP THE PEOPLE, THE PROSPECTS OF EMIGRANTS, &c« &c. BY JAMES FLINT. 1 From the disorders that disfigure the annals of the Republics of Greece and Italy, the advocates of despotism have drawn arguments, not only against the forms of republican government, but against the very principles of civil liberty. They have decried all free governments as inconsistent with the order of society, and have indulged themselves in malicious exultation over its friends and partizans. Happily for mankind, stupendous fabrics reared on the basis of liberty, which have flourished for ages, have, in a few glori- ous instances, refuted their gloomy sophism*. And, I trust, America wiU be the broad and solid foundation of other edifices not less magnificent, which will be equally permanent monuments of their error."— General Alexander Hamilton. EDINBURGH : PRINTED FOR W. & C. TAIT, PRINCE'S STREET; AND LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, LONDON. 1822. TO JAMES STUART, Esquire YOUNGER OF DUNEARN THE FOLLOWING SHEETS ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR CONTENTS LETTER I Voyage from Greenock to New York — Circumstances of Passengers — Arrival, &c. ------ 25 LETTER II Observations on New York — Removal to Long Island — Miscellaneous Remarks — Return to New York — Farther Observations on the City ------ 30 LETTER III Journey from New York to Philadelphia — Observations on Philadelphia — Institutions — Manufactures — People - 48 LETTER IV Journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburg — Remarks on the Country — Notices of Emigrants, and occurrences by the way ---------64 LETTER V Pittsburg — Situation — Manufactures — Occurrences — Peo- ple - 82 LETTER VI Descend the Ohio from Pittsburg to Beaver — Occurrences and Remarks there 89 [vi] LETTER VII Descend the Ohio from Beaver to Portsmouth — Occurrences and Remarks Interspersed - - - - - 100 22 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 LETTER VIII Leave Portsmouth — Digression on Economical Travelling — Chillicothe — Progress of a Scotch Family — Game — Trees and Shrubs — Rolled Pieces of Primitive Rocks — Implements — Antiquities — Organic Remains — Missouri and Illinois — Paper Currency - - - - -114 LETTER IX Lexington — Paper Currency — Bankers — Menials — Habits — Prices of Live Stock — Provisions, &c. — Slavery, and its Effects — Recrimination against Illiberal Reflections — Descend the Ohio to Cincinnati — Occurrences and Reflec- tions - ^ LETTER X Cincinnati — Weather — Descend the Ohio to the Falls of the Ohio — Taverns and Accommodation - - - -149 LETTER XI Morals and Manners — Education — Generosity— The Presi- dent of the United States - - - - - -165 LETTER XII On Emigration — The Prospects of Emigrants — Inconve- niences — The Method of Laying out and Disposing of Public Lands - - - - -•.-.- _ ^ LETTER XIII Comparative Advantages of Different Parts of the United States — Temperature at Philadelphia and Cincinnati — Reflections on Slave-Keeping - - - - - -181 LETTER XIV Lawyers — Doctors — Clergy — Mechanics — Justices of the Peace — Anecdotes — Punishments — Reflections - 194 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 23 [vii] LETTER XV Outline of the American Constitution — From the Frequency of Revolutions in Europe, the Instability of the American Republic is not to be inferred - 205 LETTER XVI State Legislatures — Predilection for Dividing Counties, Laying out New Towns and Roads — The Influence of Slavery on the Habits of the People — Banking - - - 215 LETTER XVII Depreciated Paper Money — Want of Employment — State Expenses — The Progress of New Settlements - - - 224 LETTER XVIII Passage to Cincinnati — Trade — Manufactures — Institutions — Banks — Climate — Notice of three Indian Chiefs — Remarks on the Indian People - - - - 237 LETTER XIX Descend the Ohio from Cincinnati to Madison — Notices of a Scotch Settlement — Excess of Male Population — Roads — Harvest — Crops — Orchards — Timber — Elections — Methodist Camp Meeting - -'- - - -250 LETTER XX Circumstances that Retard Manufacturing Industry, and Causes of its Prosperity ------- 264 LETTER XXI Circuit Court of Indiana — Lands — Crops — Salt springs — Corydon — Barrens — Caves — Tornado — Alluvial Lands — Large Trees — Wild Vines — Steam boats — the Falls of the Ohio — Billious and Intermitting Fevers — Taci- turnity — Americanisms ------- 276 24 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 LETTER XXII Miscellaneous Remarks on the Manners and Habits of the People 290 [viii] LETTER XXIII Passage from the Falls of the Ohio to Cincinnati — Journey to Lake Erie — the Great Sciota — Pickaway Plains Prairies — Sickly State of the Country — Indians — People - - 296 LETTER XXIV Passage on Lake Erie — The Falls of Niagara — Passage on Lake Ontario — Descend the River St. Lawrence — Falls — Montreal — Quebec — Indians — Remarks on the Peo- ple — Timber Trade — Government — Climate - - 313 LETTERS FROM AMERICA LETTER I Voyage from Greenock to New York — Circumstances of Passengers — Arrival, &c. New York, July 10, 1818. As I have already informed you, I sailed from Greenock on the 24th of May last, in the American ship Glenthorn, Stillman Master, bound for this place. I observed that my fellow emigrants were much affected when about to take a final leave of their native land : some regretting the separation from their native soil, while others, mute and thoughtful, seemed to suffer under feel- ings of a more tender kind. To some it may appear inconsistent in people to regret leaving their homes and their friends, while the emigration is voluntarily undertaken; but on this occasion, the para- dox will be explained, when their circumstances and views are taken into consideration. Of our party were three farmers, with their families, whose leases were expired; all of them having declined engaging for a new term of years, [2] under the apprehen- sion of seeing their paternal stock, and the savings of many years' industry, divided between the landholder and the collector of taxes. A native of Scotland, who had resided several years in America, returned with the intention of resuming business in the town where he was born, but the thick ranks of a necessitous and half employed population, had closed on the place he had left. There was a widow, 26 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 with two children, on her way to put herself under the protection of a brother in America. With us also were several of the labouring class, whose utmost exertions could only procure the bare support of existence; and plough- men, who prudently refrained from marrying with fourteen pounds a-year. In short, there was scarcely one of our number whose condition might not perhaps be bettered, or whose prospects could be rendered worse, by the change of country. In a voyage from Europe to America, most passengers may expect to be sea-sick. Nearly all of them on board the Glenthorn, on this occasion, suffered more or less. For my own part, I never was entirely free from it for more than three-fourths of the passage. This disease is dispir- iting while it continues, but as it is believed to produce no permanent injury, but, on the contrary, is thought con- ducive to future health, the attack is not at all dreaded. People unaccustomed to the seafaring life ought to carry with them those kinds of provisions to which they have been previously accustomed, as the stores of the ship soon become loathsome to the sick. Potatoes will be found acceptable, when the caprice of taste rejects almost every other food ; and walking on deck is of service, as the air is better, and the pitching of the ship is considerably less felt, than below. [3] It is very improper to go to sea in crowded vessels; as epidemic diseases are engendered, and the most dread- ful mortality is the consequence. That law of Britain which allows only one passenger for every five tons of burden in American ships (including seamen) is a most beneficial regulation ; and while, in American bottoms, the cabin passenger pays L.21, and the steerage passenger .L.i 2, the expense cannot be complained of, while health 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 27 and comfort are taken into consideration. It is much to he regretted that the government of England does not extend its humane restriction to its own Canadian settlers, and to emigrants who sail for the United States in British ships. The 4th of July is celebrated by Americans as the anni- versary of their independence, declared in 1776. The captain and seamen were disposed to be joyful in commem- oration of this great event. The striped flag was dis- played, guns and pistols were fired, accompanied with loud cheers. The passengers, no less enthusiastic, joined in the strongest expressions of their devotedness to the demo- cratic form of government. They indulged in such sen- timents as, a sincere wish that the United States may long continue exempt from that excessive corruption, as they thought, which has so long and so much degraded a large portion of the human race; — and their avowed satis- faction at the near prospect of becoming people of the Re- public. On the 8th we came in sight of Long Island, and the high lands of New Jersey; a welcome occurrence to people who had been so long at sea. In the afternoon a pilot came on board. He informed us that the city was in great bustle, as the inhabitants were assembled to deposit the bones of General Montgomery, who fell at Quebec, on the 31st of December, 1775. 1 The remains of the patriotic 1 General Richard Montgomery (1737-1775) was a native of Ireland, and served with Wolfe at Quebec in 1759. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War he was appointed commander of the American forces in the Northern De- partment, being killed in his heroic assault on Quebec, December 31, 1775. Through the courtesy of the British general his body was buried with the honors of war within the unconquered walls of Quebec. Forty-three years later the remains were disinterred, in compliance with a special act of the New York legis- lature, brought to New York City and deposited with great solemnity beneath a monument in front of St. Paul's church (July 8, 1818). A full account of the ceremony is contained in the New York Daily Advertiser of that date. — Ed. 28 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 [4] leader were buried by the ministerialists without the fort, and were to-day interred by his grateful countrymen under the portico of St. Paul's church, New York. We were sorry that it was not in our power to witness the sol- emnity. In the evening we were off the point Sandyhook. The smell of the new hay on the adjacent fields regaled us very agreeably. All seemed elated with joy. A bagpipe and two violins played by turns, and our young people danced on deck till a late hour. During this season of mirth, we were entertained by a sight, perhaps unequalled in the phenomena of an European climate. Some dense black clouds which hung over Long Island, were frequently illuminated by flashes of lightning. It is in vain to attempt a description. About midnight we passed through the Narrows, and soon afterwards anchored on the quarantine ground, about seven miles from New York. On the morning of the 9th of July, the inspecting sur- geon visited us, and allowed the anchor to be weighed. In this situation we had a full view of the shores of Staten and Long Islands. The wooden houses are neat, and the orchards and natural woods have a thriving appearance. It would seem that the people here have a partiality to the Lombardy poplar, which grows to a great height, shooting up its branches nearly perpendicularly; assuming something of the appearance of a spire. The straight rows of these trees, so common here, have an insipid regularity and sameness, more like a file of armed soldiery than an ornamental grove. Some of the frame houses are painted red, those of the finer sort, white; ornamental railings are also painted white. To an European eye, these colours appear too glaring. The lands seen from the bay are sandy and poor. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 29 [5] The first glimpse of the city of New York is by no means a distinct one. The buildings are much obscured by the forest of masts in front of them; and as the site of the town rises but gently inland, the houses in front con- ceal, in a great measure, those in the rear, so that the ship- ping and the numerous spires are the objects most dis- tinctly seen. Before entering the port we were twice boarded by agents from the Newspaper offices. They inquired for British newspapers, and generally for the news of Europe; they noted down the names of several of our passengers, which they intended to publish in the papers of the after- noon. There are no less than seven newspapers printed in New York daily; the competition of these Journalists is keen, and their industry seems to be great. We have experienced much good treatment from Captain Stillman. Every passenger is so sensible of this, that a committee of their number was requested to make public testimony of their esteem for him. We landed yesterday about noon, all in good health and spirits. During the voyage, passengers have experienced no kind of sickness, except that peculiarly incident to the sea. This letter cannot come immediately into the hands of all my friends; most of them, I hope, will hear that I am arrived in this place in good health. Should you adopt any way of making this and any subsequent communica- tions generally known to them, it will be very gratifying to me, and, besides, will relieve me of the labour of writing many letters; a labour, dictated by the strongest ties of gratitude and affection, but one which it is doubtful if I can accomplish to the satisfaction of my own mind. 30 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 [6] LETTER II Observations on New York — Removal to Long Island — Miscellaneous Remarks — Return to New York — Far- ther Observations on the City. New York, August 4, 181 8. On entering New York, I was struck with its appear- ance. Streets lined with lofty trees, most of them the Lombardy poplar, which affords a very agreeable shade in hot weather; indeed, they are so numerous, that the new comer, when he looks before him, is apt to suppose him- self in the midst of a wood. The streets, with a few ex- ceptions, are too narrow, and are deficient in sewers. Many parts of the town prevent me from thinking that it deserves the character of extreme cleanliness bestowed upon it. The greater part of the houses are of brick, neatly built; but, to eyes accustomed to towns of hewn stone, New York has, on the whole, what (for want of a more descriptive word) may be called a gingerbread ap- pearance. The markets here are amply supplied with fine vege- tables, and an immense variety of excellent fish, a great proportion of which are sold alive. Beef and pork are good, but the mutton and veal that I have seen are of inferior quality. Marketing is carried on more after the manner in some English country towns. No servants, but masters, attend and carry home the provisions. Beggars do not abound here as in some countries of Europe. I am told that every man who is [7] able to work can earn a dollar per day, and that his board costs two or three dollars per week; thus it is in his power to banish every appearance of poverty, and to save some money, pro- vided he is disposed to economy. Mechanics have good 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 31 encouragement. Joiners one and three-quarters, and masons two dollars a-day. They usually pay three dollars, or upwards, a- week for their board. Many of the necessaries of life are here purchased at high prices. Woollen cloths and most articles of wearing apparel imported, pay duties, varying, in different cases, from 25 to 33 per cent. In transacting with the merchant and the tailor, farther American enhancements may be calculated upon. Washing and dressing of shirts, neck- cloths, &c. costs a dollar and a half per dozen. Every thing that an American does, must be liberally paid for. This tends to render living dear, even where provisions are cheap. Some imported articles, as silks, wines, foreign spirituous liquors, teas, sugar, and coffee, are much cheaper than in Britain. The difference of custom-house duties is the cause of this. The condition of animals bespeak the great plenty of food that falls to their share. The horses employed in removing goods to and from the wharfs, and in stage coaches, are fat, and in high spirits. They are not so rough-legged, so broad, or so strong-limbed, as the draught horses of Britain; but they are better adapted for speed. Hogs, running in the streets, are numerous, but they are not starvelings. I have seen several of them that would yield upwards of 300 lbs. of pork without special feeding. Speaking of hogs, I would mention by the way, that they are allowed to run at large for the purpose of cleaning the streets. An economical way of procuring scavengers, [8] but one that leads to a commutation of nuisance rather than a final removal of it. July 12. Last night the heat was excessive, and not accompanied with a breath of wind. It was in vain that 32 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 I thrust my head out at an open window to be cooled. The effluvia arising from the streets is, in a great measure, occasioned by a high temperature. I imagine that a copious evolution of phosphorized hydrogen gas goes on in such weather. I could not sleep till three or four o'clock. This morning I heard that some people who had suffered from the heat and stillness of the air, had stretched them- selves on carpets, or sat by open room doors, or in passages. Nights so very oppressive are said to occur rarely. In high and inland parts of the country they do not occur at all. This is not the most proper season of the year for Euro- peans arriving here. Yesterday and to-day the heat has been excessive, the thermometer in the shade stood at 91%° • In such a degree of heat it is imprudent to take much exercise. The temperature of the human body being lower than that of the air, the former is deprived of the cooling process usually produced by evaporation. Should the heat of the blood be increased in such a case, fever commences. We had an example of this, in a young man, one of the emigrants on board the Glenthorn, who exerted himself too much in getting baggage ashore. He was this day removed to Brook- lyn, a high-lying village on Long Island, about a mile from New York. Transitions from heat to cold are, perhaps, still more dangerous; of late, eleven persons have died in the city by drinking cold water. Several of them were strangers newly landed. Water should not be drunk immediately from the [9] well, but should be allowed previously to stand for a few minutes in the air. It should be taken in small mouthfuls, and these heated in the mouth for two or three seconds before swallowing. Precautions of this kind ought to be strictly attended to, while heated by exercise or the sun's rays. Spirits are 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 33 often mixed with water, to prevent the injurious effects of the latter. This corrective, however much extolled, ought to be taken in very small quantities. Here, as in Britain, there are many who resort to spirituous liquors as the sov- ereign medicine, both in hot and in cold weather. Strangers lodge in boarding houses, and are charged from three dollars to twenty a-week. I have got lodgings in a good one, where I find interesting company. Pre- vious to our meals a servant rings a small hand-bell, sum- moning every lodger to the public room, where we all eat together. A polite, well-dressed, hostess presides. Servants are not here so attentive to their duty as else- where; many of them are free blacks, slow in their motions, and often treating the most reasonable commands with neglect. Master is not a word in the vocabulary of hired people. Bos, a Dutch one of similar import, is substi- tuted. 2 The former is used by Negroes, and is by free people considered as synonymous with slave-keeper. This afternoon much thunder was heard. After twi- light the lightning flashed incessantly, so that the illumina- tion was almost permanent. Thunder storms in America are more frequent, more severe, and often accompanied with greater rains than in Europe. A respectable gentle- man of Delaware county, in this State, told me, that during a thunder storm there, he laid his watch on the table, and found that an hour and forty-eight minutes elapsed [10] without one cessation of sound. He thinks it probable that the peal lasted about two hours, as a few minutes must have passed before the idea of noting the time suggested itself. July 13. This evening, after dark, I was surprised to see a large object standing in the centre of one of the prin- a From the Dutch Baas, meaning master. — Ed. 34 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 cipal streets; on approaching it, I discovered that it was a frame-house, with a wheel affixed to each corner. Its length was about twenty-two feet, breadth about sixteen feet, and two stories high. I am just told that much larger buildings than this are often dragged off by horses, with their roofs, floors, plaster, doors, and windows, entire; furniture sometimes included. This sort of removal happens at the expiry of leases of small lots, where the occupier is not bound to leave the buildings. July 16. For two days past, the skin of my face has been spotted, accompanied with blotches, and with partial swelling. This is called the prickly heat, from the pungent feeling that attends it. A medical gentleman has told me, that this has been occasioned by a sudden cooling, which has put a stop to perspiration. He congratulated me on having escaped a fever, prescribed a hot bath, and subse- quent sea-bathing. I am about to set out for Long Island, in obedience to the latter part of the Doctors prescription. Afternoon. Arrived at New-Utrecht, a village near the south-western extremity of Long Island. 3 On leaving New York, I crossed the ferry to Brooklyn, by a steam-boat of singular construction : this vessel is composed of two hulls, at a little distance from, and parallel to, one another; they are connected by a deck common to both. The water- wheel, turned by a steam-engine, is placed between [n] the keels of the boats. There is a rudder at each end, so that she can cross and re-cross, without putting about. A stage coach runs from Brooklyn to New Utrecht. The distance is nine miles; and the fare for one person, half a dollar. This coach, like the other public ones of the coun- try, has no glass windows in the front or the sides of it, 3 New Utrecht was in Kings County, New York, seven miles from New York City.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 35 these parts are furnished with curtains, which are let down in bad weather. The coach is long, containing four seats that run across; and travellers sit with their faces forward, as in the pews of a church. I have agreed to stop a few days at New Utrecht. My host is an intelligent man, obliging, but not fawning; he and his wife take the principal drudgery of the house upon themselves, as the slaves are extremely slow in the ex- ecution of their work. Sometimes the landlord presides at the head of the table, and at other times he acts as servant. At dinner we were joined by the coach-driver who brought us from Brooklyn; he is very unlike the drivers of some other coaches, is well dressed, active, and attentive to his business, by no means obsequious, answers every question with propriety, and without embarrassment. He does not depend on the gratuities of travellers for his wages. That system, which so universally prevails in Britain, is un- known here. At the inn there were three boarders, all Scotsmen. One of them, a young gentleman from Edinburgh, who was confined to bed by a broken thigh bone, occasioned by a horse running away with a gig, from which he fell while attempting to disengage himself; he was occasionally at- tended by a young lady, whose visits were frequent, al- though she lived at the distance of ten miles. The people of the neighbourhood were also very attentive to this [12] person, often calling for him; and several of the young men sat with him all night by rotation. It was pleasing to see so creditable a display of the benevolent affections. The good people here are the descendants of the original Dutch settlers. They are placed in comfortable circum- stances, their style of living somewhat resembling that of farmers in the more fertile and improved parts of Scotland. 36 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 If the situations of farmers in the two countries were com- pared, it would appear that the advantage of the Long Islanders consists in a climate highly conducive to vegeta- tion, their freedom from rent, being owners of the soil, and the total absence of any heavy taxes; and that their com- parative disadvantage is, the want of such active domestic and agricultural servants as the farmer of the other country employs. Mr. Cobbet 4 is now farming about nine miles from this place. His people (it is said) could not bear the oppro- brious name servant, and, with the exception of one per- son, left him. 5 The fishermen here drag ashore many fishes in their seines. Without other evidence than the vast quantities of smaller ones left on the shore, the abundant supply of the New York market might be inferred. I bathe twice a-day, on the spot where General Howe first effected the landing of his army.* A farmer very obligingly gives me the key of his fishing house on the beach, that I may dress 4 William Cobbett, a publicist known both in America and England, was born on a farm in Surrey, March, 1762 . After serving for several years in the English army, he resigned and (1792) came to Philadelphia. Here, under the name of "Peter Porcupine," he advocated the cause of the Federalists. Returning to London in 1800, he founded the Weekly Political Register. His influence with the workingmen was so great that the English government became alarmed, and he found it prudent to spend two more years in America (181 7-19). He pub- lished his experiences as a Long Island farmer (18 18), under the title A Year's Residence in the United States of America. Vigorously opposing the plans of Morris Birkbeck and others to bring over colonies of British emigrants to the United States, his attacks and the replies that followed brought on a journal- istic controversy which lasted until about 1825. (See volumes x, xi, and xii of our series.) Upon his return to England, he was elected to parliament as a Liberal in 1832, and served until his death (1835). — Ed. * This person was English. — Flint. 6 Admiral Lord Richard Howe, British general in the Revolutionary War, left Halifax with his fleet June 11, 1776^0 effect a union with General Clinton at New York. He arrived at Sandy Hook June 29, and July 2 took possession of Staten Island. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 37 and undress in it. The farmers here catch great quantities of fish, with which they manure their land. There are still a considerable number of slaves in Long Island; they are treated with a degree of [13] humanity that slaves in some other parts of the world never experience; they are well fed, and the whip is very seldom resorted to. Notwithstanding their comparative advantages, they de- test the unnatural yoke, and frequently run off. It often happens that the master neither pursues nor inquires after the fugitive. What becomes of the * self-emancipated is not here well understood. I have heard that many of them get to Boston, or some other of the northern ports, from whence they are carried to the Southern States, sold, and placed under a harsher treatment. A great part of the slaves of the State of New York are to be emancipated in the year 1827. 7 It is difficult to pre- dict the consequences of this liberation. It is to be feared that people who have been compelled to work, will, of their own choice, become banditti, rather than adopt in- dustrious habits. Arrangements must necessarily be made before the arrival of this revolution; but many satisfy themselves by saying, that the legislature will devise some plan that will enable them to get over the difficulty. Some suggest that the Negroes shall be returned to Africa. On this measure, the African Association, so much talked of in America, proceeds. 8 The expense of transporting, 7 By act of legislation, 31st March, 181 7, "Every Negro, Mulatto, or Mustee, within this State, born before the 4th day of July, 1799, shall, from and after the 4th day of July, 1827, be free." — Flint. 8 The American Society for the Colonization of the Free People of Color of the United States, was organized at Washington, December, 1816. It rapidly gained favor, both North and South, and by February, 1820, sufficient money had been subscribed to send the first colony to Liberia. But the free negroes disliked it; the colonists suffered great hardships in Liberia; and the aboli- tionists soon opposed the project. William Lloyd Garrison began to denounce the Society in 1829, and thereafter it declined steadily in importance. — Ed. 38 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 settling, supporting, and governing a new colony, must be immense. The design is as benevolent as the difficulties to be encountered are great. The support it meets with in slave-keeping states, looks like a pledge of sincerity, and an omen that forebodes success to the undertaking. [14] The project of removing blacks to the backwoods of America seems to be altogether objectionable. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to prevent their return from exile; their previous habits and disposition render them ill-calculated to the work of subduing the forests. Besides, they would commit depredations on the neigh- boring settlers, and on the Indian people. Long Island being composed of alluvial soil, surrounded by a high beach, its surface is necessarily what is called a table land : for the most part the surface is somewhat flat, the soil is dry, and at this season, without streams of water. Near the surface I have observed a substratum that is intermixed with clay. If a part of this was raised above the ground, it would be made to approach to a loam, more productive, and less liable to be injured by drought, than the present sandy coating that covers the surface. A trenching, performed by the spade or by the plough, would no doubt produce the good effect. A labourer in Long Island receives half a dollar a-day, with his board, and a dollar in harvest. The weather, which is said to be hotter at present than it has been for several years, begins to scorch the surface of the ground. The stubble from which the hay has recently been removed, retains the appearance of a newly mown field; pasture grass is withering. In some fields a rank crop of weeds continues green; amongst these the cattle are straying nearly two feet deep, but are in reality almost starving; water is drawn from deep wells, and 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 39 served out to them in rather too small quantities. The cows are small, as may be expected. Good crops of wheat, rye, and Indian corn, are raised. These require manure. Indian corn is considered a good crop, when at the rate [15] of 40 bushels per acre. Oats do not ripen well from the excessive heat, and are used only for the feed of horses. Potatoes are small; their tops grow high and slender, as when shaded by trees in your country; their leaves are small and shrivelled. The greatest luxuriance to be met with in Long Island is in the orchards, the branches of apple and pear trees are bent down, and not unfrequently broken by the weight of the fruit. Peach trees were lately productive, but are now falling into decay. I have met with no one able to assign the cause. The woods are thriving, but few of the trees are large; they are evidently a new growth, and not contemporary with the thick trunks that opposed the first settlers. The owners frequently spare their own timber, and purchase from other parts of the State, or from New Jersey. In consequence of pay- ing for timber and carriage, building in Long Island is rendered more expensive than in more late settlements. It is not easy to state the price of land in Long Island, as much of it has descended from father to son, from the first settlement ; and sales have been rare. A farm within ten miles of New York would perhaps sell at 140 or 150 dollars (from L.31, 10s. to L.33, 15s.) per acre. The prac- tice of renting land is by shares, the occupier paying to the proprietor one half of the actual price of the produce, the former bearing the risk and trouble of collecting the money. The fences are of wood. The figure is a representation of the railing commonly adopted here. [16] A fence of this sort, costs about a dollar for every 4° Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ten yards in length. Where the posts are of cedar, and the rails of chesnut, the erection, it is said, may stand about fifty years. I examined one reported to be thirty years old, and found it to be so strong, that it may be ex- pected still to last for years to come. There are neither hedges nor stone fences to be seen in this neighbourhood. The crops, as in most parts of America, are cut down by what is called the Cradle-scythe. I went into a field where a Negro was reaping wheat with this sort of imple- ment, and observed that about an English acre was cut down. On making inquiry, it appeared that he had been engaged about six hours in the work. The following dia- logue ensued : ' 'You work very hard ?" "No Sir, I can do much more in the time, but that of no use." "You are not free then ?" "No Sir, I a slave, I longs to Jacob Van , there," (pointing to the farm house.) "But you black people are very well treated here?" "Oh yes, Sir, master very good to me, give me every thing to eat he eat self, but no Sunday clothes. ' ' "You may live happier than some poor free people ?" "That may be true, Sir, but put bird in cage, give him plenty to eat, still he fly away. ' ' I delay giving a description of the cradle-scythe, as I 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 41 doubt if the one that I have just seen is of the best con- struction. After the crop is cut, the swath is collected by the hand, and tied into sheaves; a small quantity of ^stalks still re- main scattered over the surface, [17] these are commonly collected by the hand-rake. To facilitate the latter part of the process, a horse rake has been recently invented; of which the following figure is a representation. AB is a beam about six inches square, and about twelve feet long. CD is an upright rail that prevents the stalks accumulated by the machine from falling over the beam AB, and so left behind. EF, e}> are two supports to the rail, which also serve as handles for steering, and occa- sionally upsetting the machine. ABHG is a tire of wooden teeth, one and a half inches diameter, and about six inches distant from one another. These teeth are sharp- ened at their extremities, and skim along the ground with their points forward ; raising up and collecting the stalks. 42 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 IK are trees to which the horses are yoked. The trees are attached to the beam AB, by the rope BLA. [18] The field in which I saw the horse rake used is flat and not ridged; consequently the straight beam operated very well. To adapt a beam to ridges, it would only be necessary to construct it with two joints or hinges; one at each side of the handles, and to connect the central part of the beam by a rope with the point of attachment L. Otherwise, the implement may be moved across the ridges. Four wheeled waggons are the vehicles used in carry- ing home the crops, carrying manure into the fields, and produce to market. They are drawn by two horses, which trot, whether loaded or not. Small one-horse waggons are also used, they are neat, and are furnished with a seat for conveying families to church, and else- where. Many of the farmers who own but small proper- ties, keep one horse gigs. Ladies drive dexterously. The practice of housing the crops, and the ancient one of treading them out by the feet of horses, shew that the Long Islanders have yet something to learn in the way of dispatching their agricultural business. The high price of land prevents emigrants from settling here. The near neighbourhood of a market, and the salu- brity derived from dry land, together with sea breezes, might, notwithstanding, form sufficient inducements to many, who would pursue their immediate advantage; but those who look forward to the future prospects of a family, commonly prefer some part of the back country. July 24. Saw the works in progress at Fort Diamond. 8 This is a large battery raised on a shoal in the narrows, • Fort Diamond, later renamed Fort Lafayette, was the largest of the forts planned in 1812 for the defense of New York harbor. It became famous as a political state prison during the War of Secession, and was then protected by seventy-five heavy mounted guns. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 43 about 200 yards off the western point of Long Island; most of the workmen are British. [19] Crossed the Narrows to Staten Island. The fortifi- cations are extensive and commanding. The garrison consists of one man ! 25. Left New Utrecht, where a residence of nine days has completely cured my blotched face. The climate is delightful, and I have entertained a very favourable opinion of the people. The emigrant who was removed sick to Brooklyn, is dead; thus by far the finest young man of our party, has fallen the first victim to the climate: twenty-two years of age, of a mild and cheerful disposition, and of a manly figure, and who had gained our universal esteem. Of a family consisting of six persons, he was the only one who was able to endure the fatigues of clearing away the forests. The feelings of the survivors are deeply wounded, and the tender attachment that pledged his early return to Scotland is blasted. I returned to New York, and shall make some more re- marks on the city. The population, at the census of 181 6, was 100,619, of which 6985 were aliens, 9774 free people of colour, and 617 slaves. It is expected that the enumera- tion of 1820 will disclose a vast increase. Literature does not stand on such a broad basis here as in Europe. Printing, particularly of newspapers, is car- ried on to a considerable extent: but the style of many communications and advertisements which appear in them, shews that the public are not far advanced in taste. Particular pieces are elegant. Many English publica- tions are reprinted, frequently with the addition of some introduction, notes, or an appendix. For the additional matter a patent is procured, which I suppose has gener- 44 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ally the practical effect of securing an exclusive privilege for the whole work. Some of Lord Byron's latest pro- ductions, the Memoirs of [20] the Fudge Family, 10 and the Brownie of Bodsbeck, 11 are exhibited in the windows of the principal book-sellers. When I left Edinburgh the last mentioned book was not published. The Kaleidoscope of Dr. Brewster is here fabricated in a rude style, and in quantities so great, that it is given as a plaything to children. 12 An artist informed me that a journeyman of his proposes to take a patent for an im- provement he had made on it. The public museum in this city is a recent collection. An Indian mummy from the great saltpetre cave in Ken- tucky, a bear from Warwick mountains, about sixty miles north of this place, which weighed 700 pounds, and an im- mensely large turtle, are as yet the most interesting objects. The town hall is a splendid building. Lightness, and an apparent want of solidity in its parts, deprive it in some measure of the august effect essential to sublime grandeur. The front and columns are made of white marble of a foliated texture. The interior staircase is both large and magnificent. It is circular, and furnished with two elegant flights of steps that wind in contrary di- rections, so that the one crosses the other alternately. Upon the whole, it displays that elegance which becomes an edifice devoted to the administration of justice. 10 A series of metrical epistles purporting to be written in Paris by Thomas Moore. — Ed. 11 ' ' The Brownie of Blednoch," a folk-lore ballad, is the best known of William Nicholson's poems. He was a Galloway peddler (1782-1849), who composed verses as he travelled from town to town. — Ed. 13 Sir David Brewster (1781-1868), experimental philosopher and editor of the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, invented the kaleidoscope about 181 6. Through- out these letters, Flint portrays large acquaintance with the writings of the more noted of his fellow-countrymen. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 45 When I visited the Court of Sessions, the judge on the bench appeared a plain active-looking gentleman, not distinguished by any robes of office. The business on hand was the taking of evidence in the case of a man who had left a vault open during the night. A person passing in the street happened to fall into the chasm, and raised an action of damages, on the ground that he had received bodily hurt. The questions put were numerous [21] and minute, the witnesses, notwithstanding, went on in giving lengthened details, embracing particulars not asked, and foreign to the subject. They seemed in no respect em- barrassed by the dignity of the court. The whole of the witnesses were present, and each heard the examinations which preceded his own. The Washington, a new ship of war, mounting 96 guns, is much visited at present. 13 The seamen are a party of stout healthy looking men, dressed in striped cottons, very suitable to the present hot weather, and cleanly in the ex- treme. The decoration, cleanliness of the ship, and the order that prevailed aboard, can scarcely be surpassed. Diffident, however, as I am in forming an opinion on any naval affair, I cannot avoid the impression that a vessel of such strength, and with such a crew of freemen, must be an overmatch for any other vessel constructed and manned as European ships of war were wont to be. The steam-frigate is a novelty in naval architecture. The vessel is bomb-proof, impelled by a powerful steam- engine ; is said to be furnished with apparatus for heating ball, for throwing hot water, for moving a sort of arms to 13 The "Washington" was built at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, in 1814, being the second ship of seventy-four guns (not ninety-six, as Flint states) launched for the United States navy. She was the flagship of Commodore Chauncey in the Mediterranean, from 1816 to 1818. In 1843 she was broken up in New York harbor. — Ed. 46 • Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 prevent boarding, and to carry submarine guns of one hundred pounds shot. 14 The steam-boat, Chancellor Livingstone, is the largest and finest vessel of the kind perhaps ever built; she is 526 tons burden, length 165 feet, and breadth 50 feet. The power of the engine is estimated as being equal to that of eighty horses. The boiler is of copper, and weighs twenty tons. The cabin unites something like the hori- zontal dimensions of a church, and a degree of elegance not exceeded by any floating apartment. The Chancellor sails between New York and Albany. 15 [22] August 3. The theatre has some degree of resem- blance in its plan to that at Edinburgh, and is attended by a genteelly-dressed audience. To-night the celebrated Mr. Incledon completed his engagement. 16 He was highly applauded. The song, " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled, ' ' was alike cheered by Scots and Americans. During this season of the year, most people wear light cotton clothes; the jacket is in many cases striped, and the pantaloons of Indian nankin. A broad-brimmed straw- hat is commonly used, to prevent the face from being scorched by the rays of the sun. Draymen, and other labouring people, wear a sort of frock or hunting shirt of tow-cloth, that hangs down to the knees. A tall, thin, swarthy-countenanced man, with a frock, surmounted 14 This was the ' * Fulton," the first steamship in the American navy. Robert Fulton directed her construction, and she made her trial trip June i, 1815, a few months after his death. Her naval service was unimportant. While em- ployed as a receiving-ship at the Brooklyn docks she blew up, June, 1829. — Ed. 15 The ' ' Chancellor Livingstone," built under Fulton's direction, and named in honor of his friend and patron, was completed in 181 6. She was one hundred and twenty-five tons larger than any boat then on the Hudson. Her average speed was eight and a half miles an hour. In 1832 she was put on the route between Boston and Portland, being broken up at Portland two years later. — Ed. *• Benjamin Charles Incledon (1764-1826)^ famous English vocalist. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 47 by a broad straw hat, is a figure somewhat new to the Briton. One of the greatest inconsistencies among a people pro- fessing liberty and equality, is the degradation imposed on people of colour. In the church of the most popular preacher of New York, I looked in vain for a black face. There is a congregation of blacks in town, who have a preacher of the same colour, where (it is said) a white man would be equally singular. Blacks are not admitted into the public baths; and, at some places of amusement the hand-bills have a note of this kind, N. B . ' ' A place is pro- vided for people of colour. n I do not recollect of having seen or heard of a black person who is in any degree eminent in society, or who has acquired reputation in any mechanical or mercantile business. This depression appears to be produced partly by the aversion with which the white face looks on the black one, and partly by bad education and habits. Something more than mere eman- cipation is required, a moral change, [23] affecting both the black and the white, must take place, before the con- dition of the negro can be completely ameliorated. The churches of New York are fifty-three in number, and are occupied by seventeen religious sectaries. None of these are peculiarly privileged by law, and none denied the common protection of citizens. August 4. Now when about to leave New York, I feel a pleasure in stating my conviction of the civilization and moral honesty of the people. In the former respect, they may exult in any comparison with the mass of many European cities. And in regard to the latter, I have heard of no recent instance of house-breaking or riot. In hot weather, people leave their windows open during the night, and street doors are seldom closed during the whole of the 48 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 evening; the inhabitants not thinking their hats and um- brellas in much danger. Such traits are perfectly un- equivocal. LETTER in Journey from New York to Philadelphia — Remarks on the country passed through — Notices of companions — Their conversation by the way — Observations on Phil- adelphia — Institutions — Manufactures — People. Philadelphia, December 19, 1818. This letter will give you the details of my journey from New York to Philadelphia, and some particulars with re- gard to the latter city. 17 [24] August 5. Got aboard of the Olive-Branch steam- boat for New Brunswick. This is a large vessel, wrought by an engine of forty-five horses' power. She may at once be pronounced elegant and commodious. The passen- gers dine on board. In a company so large, the traveller has it in his power to select the person with whom he would enter into con- versation. The individual I fell in with, on this occasion, was a mercantile gentleman from England. He seemed to me a man of a good disposition, and one who possessed considerable knowledge of the principal towns, and of the different ways of transacting business in the United States. The American character, according to his report, is by no means a good one. He expressed himself as completely tired of the country, and proposed returning to England. He told me that he had met with considerable losses by villanous insolvencies. His account, instead of convin- 17 The author's route from New York to Philadelphia was by boat to New Brunswick, thence by stage to Trenton on the Delaware, where boat was taken for Philadelphia. Stages, by this time, had practically ceased running between New York and Philadelphia.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 49 cing me that the Americans were sinners above all others, just shewed me that he was a good-natured, credulous man, and that he had fallen into the hands of several art- ful rogues; a class, it would seem, not wanting in America. The land on both sides of the strait, between Staten Island and the main land, is light and sandy, in some spots almost sterile. People in boats are busy with long wooden tongs, resembling forceps, taking up clams from the bot- tom, in six or seven feet of water. The land on both margins of the Raritan is very low and flat, covered with a rank growth of reeds. These are cut for the cattle, and form a coarse but a very bulky crop. The swamps, being liable to inundation, are not made to yield any other herbage than their spontaneous produce. [25] About four miles below New Brunswick, the red sandstone is met with. It is the first rock toward the coast, the interval being high alluvial land, containing vegetables and the bones of marine animals of tribes still existing; facts that establish without a doubt that the ocean has receded. From New Brunswick to Trenton, travellers are con- veyed by four-horse coaches. Six of these wait the arrival of the steam-boat. In one of these I took my seat, and found that only two gentlemen were to be along with me; one of them an American who had travelled in Britain, and the other an Englishman, who had just been out on an exten- sive tour in the United States. Both appear men of talent and education ; the one a Virginian lawyer, and the other a person well acquainted with the state of science and man- ufacture in his own country; they are equally devoted to the representative form of government. Their only differ- ence of opinion arose from drawing a comparison between the national characters of the two countries. The Ameri- 50 Early Western Travels [Vol. o can claimed the superiority, in toto, while the Englishman asserted the higher excellence of the literary, the scientific, and the mechanical attainments of Britain; but, at the same time admitted, with apparent candour, the superior dexterity of Americans in traffic, and that, taken in a body, they are without some of the ruder qualities of John Bull. Thus, in one day, I have heard two intelligent Englishmen discuss the character of the American people, and each draw opposite conclusions: a fact, which proves how cautious we ought to be in forming an estimate of a com- munity; as we are in continual danger of judging of the great stock from the small, and it may happen that an unfair sample may come within the narrow limits of a sin- gle person's observation. [26] The land between New Brunswick and Princeton is chiefly of a poor sand. The road is composed of the same material, with plank bridges over ravines, where most of the streams are now dried up. The woods, to a Briton, seem more remarkable for their height, than for the diameter of the trees. The stems, even by the road side, where many are felled, stand closely together, and then- tops form a continued canopy, that sheds a gloom over the surface of the ground. When proximity to the two great- est cities in the Union is considered, it seems surprising that the arm of man has effected so little. The farms by the road side are neither numerous, nor are the cleared patches large. The passenger has no way of knowing how the country is peopled or improved beyond the first clearing; and where no opening occurs, he cannot see the light more than about 200 yards into the woods. Rail fences, how- ever, and cattle amongst the trees, indicate that the whole is appropriated. The cows are small, and of little value; and the few 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 51 sheep which I have seen, are long-legged and thin, per- haps the worst breed in existence. Princeton College is a large brick house, situated in a grass field. The edifice has a retired, if not a gloomy appearance. It was here that Dr. Wotherspoon, 18 the author of the ' * Characteristics of Scottish Clergy, ' ' found an asylum, and the means of prosecuting useful labours. By the way side stands a row of very large weeping wil- lows, that are highly ornamental to this small town. Their long slender twigs hang down almost perpendicularly, and wave with every wind, displaying, as it were, a sort of vegetable drapery. From Princeton onward, the land is much better than that observed to the north, and the [27] surface is finely diversified, but dusk prevented me from seeing a part of the country next to Trenton. The arrival of six four-horse coaches produced consid- erable stir in the Inn at Trenton. No sooner had the passengers entered, than a pile of trunks and portmanteaus was reared in the bar-room, that would make a good figure in the warehouse of a wholesale merchant. The party at supper was very large. There being three lines of conveyance between New York and Philadelphia, the aggregate of the intercourse must be great. Betwixt New Brunswick and this place, a distance of twenty-five miles, 18 James Witherspoon, born in Haddingtonshore, Scotland, in 1722, was a de- scendant of John Knox. Graduating from Edinburgh University, and receiv- ing ordination as a Presbyterian minister, in 1768 he accepted an invitation to become president of Princeton College, and brought with him a considerable addition to the college library. From the first he took an active part in the Rev- olutionary War; as member of the provincial assembly, he assisted in over- throwing the royal governor; as member of the continental congress he signed the Declaration of Independence, and aided in initiating several important legis- lative measures. After the close of the war, he retired to his farm near Prince- ton, dying there in September, 1794. — Ed. 52 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 we have not seen a single pedestrian. The heat of the weather may in some measure account for this. Trenton is beautifully situated at the head of the tide water of the river Delaware. The orchards are luxuriant, and the pasture grounds richer than any that I have hitherto seen in the country. August 6. Trenton is celebrated by one of the most dexterous feats of generalship on record. I shall take the liberty of stating some particulars of the affair. On the 1st of January, 1777, the term of enlistment amongst the American troops expired, and that day brought on a dis- solution of the best part of the army. General Howe, aware of the occurrence, pressed forward on the 2d, with an army vastly superior. The head of their column arrived at Trenton about four o'clock, and attempted to cross Sanpink creek, which runs through the town, but finding the fords guarded, halted and kindled their fires. The American army was drawn up on the other side of the creek. In this situation the latter remained till dark, can- nonading the enemy, and receiving the fire of their field pieces. [28] Washington having discovered that the enemy de- signed to surround his little army, ordered the baggage to be removed after dark. At twelve o'clock, having re- newed his fires, he decamped with his army, unperceived by the enemy, and marched against Princeton by a cir- cuitous route, where he arrived by the rising of the sun t defeated the troops there, and captured their stores. 19 The Delaware is a delightful river, with many mag- nificent windings. The convex shore of one extensive curve, is so imposing, that it is called Point-no-Point, an apparent cape being always in sight, but which recedes as 19 Washington's Letters, vol. ii, page 4, Lond. 1795. — Flint. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 53 the observer advances. The grounds adjacent to the river are flat, and covered with a rich verdure; but the beach is of a height sufficient to prevent a person from seeing far inland from the river. Many large farm houses are to be seen, with extensive orchards, and beautiful weeping willows adjoining. The last, form large spread- ing masses without any erect or principal top, the main or leading branches rear themselves upwards, after acquiring a considerable degree of strength; and the shoots immediately younger, are elegantly bent, as if in the act of getting erect; while the youngest of all are completely pendulous. The whole is singularly picturesque. On approaching Philadelphia, I felt disappointed in seeing the shipping so very inferior to that at New York; and the houses fronting the river are old and irregularly placed, so that the idea of a port declining in trade immedi- ately occurred. Philadelphia is situated between the rivers Delaware [29] and Schuylkill. The streets are laid off agreeably to the cardinal points, and cross one another at right angles, the principal ones running in the east and west direction, crossing the neck of land between the two rivers. The streets, as at New York, are lined with trees; they are cleaner kept, and are wider, and more regular, so that gaseous exhalations are much less felt in them than in the other city. Most of the houses are of brick, and many of them have the doors and windows surrounded by white marble. Several public edifices are built of that material. August 7. The general aspect of the city is more pleas- ant, and a freer circulation of air is felt than in New York; of course the natural inference is, that Philadelphia must be the more salubrious of the two. Dr. Mease, of the American Philosophical Society, has deduced the same 54 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 conclusion from the bills of mortality. 20 The daily aver- age of deaths being 5^3 in this place, and 6^ at New York. At the time this computation was made, the pop- ulation of Philadelphia was the greater of the two, con- sequently something more is to be allowed in favour of the relative healthfulness of Philadelphia. The doctor has also compared the mortalities of Phila- delphia and Liverpool, and it appears that the deaths in the former city are, to those in the latter, as 33 to 50. The comparison was made between the number of deaths in 1810 for Philadelphia, and on another year for Liverpool. This must have been occasioned from a want of data apply- ing to the same year in both places. My very short acquaintance with the doctor gives me the utmost confi- dence in his candour, and in the accuracy of his calcula- tions. [30] It is not to be kept out of view, that the mortality in Philadelphia is considerably greater in summer than in winter, the deaths in August, for example, may be fairly stated at twice the number in December. This fact, not to mention the epidemical diseases with which Philadel- phia is sometimes visited, must give a decided preference to Liverpool. The religious sects of Philadelphia are eighteen in num- ber; they have thirty-four places of worship. The whole may be exhibited thus: Swedish, three churches; Quak- ers, three; Free Quakers, one; Episcopal, three; Baptist, 20 John Mease, a wealthy and philanthropic Philadelphian, was born in 177 1. Although a graduate of the Medical College of the University of Pennsylvania, he did not practice regularly, but devoted himself to literary and scientific pur- suits. In association with David Rittenhouse and other members of the Philo- sophical Society, he was engaged in numerous undertakings for the betterment of the city. His Picture of Philadelphia, published in 181 1, was for many years the best travellers' guide thereof. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 55 one; Presbyterian, two; Catholic, four; German Lutheran, two; German Calvinist, two; Associate Reformed Church, one; Moravians, one; Associate Church, (Antiburghers,) one; Presbyterian Covenanters, one; Methodists, four, (two for whites and two for blacks;) Universalists, one; Unitarians, one; Independents, one; Jewish Synagogues, two. There are four state law courts in the city; four Banks, and eleven Insurance offices. The other institutions would be too tedious to enumer- ate separately, probably the following includes most of them. Thirteen charitable institutions, eight free school societies, three patriotic societies, about twenty mutual benefit societies, five associations for the relief of foreigners and their descendants, seven literary institutions, three libraries, the American Philosophical Society, 21 the Society of Artists, the Pennsylvanian Academy of Fine Arts, and a museum of natural history. 22 21 The American Philosophical Society, the oldest scientific association in America, was organized by Franklin in 1743. In 1769 it was combined with the American Society for Promoting Useful Knowledge, and from that date (except for a few years during the Revolutionary War) has never failed to meet regu- larly. Among its presidents may be noted Franklin, Jefferson, Rittenhouse, and Caspar Wistar. The Society of Artists, formed in 18 10, to establish a school of drawing and hold an annual exhibition of foreign and American paintings, was dissolved soon after Flint's visit to Philadelphia. The Academy of Fine Arts was organized in 1805, largely through the efforts of Charles Wilson Peale. The following year a building was occupied, and the first exhibition opened in 181 1, in conjunction with the Society of Artists. The Academy has ceased to hold exhibitions, but maintains a good permanent collection. The Museum, opened by Peale at his residence in 1784, contained for the most part portraits of Revolutionary heroes painted by himself. When trans- ferred to Independence Hall (1802), it included a large collection of birds, insects, and the implements of primitive men. The Philadelphia Museum Com- pany acquired it in 1 821; but later the collection was sold and dispersed. — Ed. 23 Dr. Mease's Picture of Philadelphia. — Flint. 56 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 The American Philosophical Society meets frequently, and is well attended. When I visited the institution, three of the foreign ministers were [31] present. Pro- fessor Cooper 23 read very interesting papers on the bilious fever, on a new mordant to be used in dyeing, and on a new test for detecting arsenic where administered as a poison. There is still zeal and talent in the asso- ciation once distinguished by a Franklin and a Ritten- house. 24 The Franklean library contains about 24,000 volumes; almost every scientific work of merit may be seen. Stran- gers are allowed to read and even to write in the great hall. On leaving a small deposit they may carry books out of the library. The building belongs to the institution, and has a herculean bust of the founder over the entrance; and the following lines, by Alexander Wilson 25 the orni- thologist, hang in a frame in the great room. s Thomas Cooper, born in London in 1759, was eminent both as a lawyer and a scientist. Educated at Oxford, he practiced law, first in England, and after 1795 in Northumberland, Pennsylvania. Upon a visit to France (about 1792), he studied chemistry, and continued his researches in that science after coming to America. Upon being removed, for arbitrary conduct, from a judgeship (181 1), he was appointed professor of chemistry at Dickinson College, later at the University of Pennsylvania, and in 1820 became president of the college of South Carolina. At the time of his death (1840) he was engaged in revising the statutes of the latter state, and in writing pamphlets in favor of state rights. — Ed. ** For a brief biography of David Rittenhouse, see A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series, note 75. — Ed. n Alexander Wilson was for many years a weaver and poet in Paisley, Scot- land. Trouble breaking out between the weavers and masters, he emigrated to Philadelphia in 1794, becoming in turn weaver, school-teacher, and peddler. In 1802 the scientist John Bartram became interested in Wilson's talents, and gave systematic direction to his natural taste for ornithology, to which he de- voted the remainder of his life. He published his first volume of American Ornithology in 1808, and had nearly completed nine volumes before his death, in 1813. — Ed 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 57 ' ' Ye who delight through learning's paths to roam, Who deign to enter this devoted dome; By silent awe and contemplation led, Survey these wonders of the illustrious dead ! The lights of every age — of every clime, The fruits of science, and the spoils of time, Stand here arranged, obedient to your nod; Here feast with sages, and give thanks to God. Next thanks to him; that venerable sage, His country's boast, — the glory of the age ! Immortal Franklin, whose unwearied mind, Still sought out every good for all mankind; Search'd every science, studious still to know, To make men virtuous, and to keep them so. — Living, he reared with generous friends this scene; And dead, still stands without to welcome in." The Atheneum is another excellent institution. 26 Here a great number of American and foreign newspapers are read, and there is also a collection of the reviews, periodi- cal publications, and scientific journals, of Britain and America. Strangers are introduced by the subscribers. The United British Emigrant Society meets frequently, and its business in conducted with zeal [32] and ability. A book is kept open, in which are inserted notices of labourers, &c. &c. wanted, with the names and residences of the persons to whom they are to apply. On looking over this record, I observed that many of the situations offered were in the western country. Although the mem- bers of this society merit the utmost credit for their benevo- lent exertions, the most cautious strangers will always hesitate to undertake long journies, incurring a great ex- pense, the risk of meeting only with a trifling employment, and that of cheapening their labour by the sacrifices which * A public reading-room called the Atheneum was established by private sub- scription in 1814. Ten years later it contained 3,300 volumes, including prom- inent foreign and American reviews. Rooms were rented from the American Philosophical Society until 1847, when the Atheneum building was erected. — Ed. 58 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 they make. Artifices of this kind are not to be imputed to the society. The museum contains a considerable collection of ob- jects; and among the rest a skeleton of an entire mam- moth. Around the upper part of the wall are arranged the portraits of several hundreds of the personages who have distinguished themselves in the revolution, or in the legislature of America. The design is praiseworthy, but the execution of the pictures is bad. The state prison does honour to the jurisprudence of the country. The culprit is not made a burden on the com- munity, but is put to work, and the first of his earnings applied to his support, a part of the remainder is given to him at his dismissal; by this means he is not under the necessity of resorting immediately to robbery or theft. Habits of industry are acquired, and trades learned, by persons who previously were pests to society. The strict order, and even silence, that is maintained in the estab- lishment, is conceived to be the peculiarity that has pro- duced the effects that distinguish it above every institution of the kind. The provisions given to the inmates are said to be plentiful and good, though furnished at the low rate of [33] fourteen cents, or about seven-pence-half- penny English, per day. Philadelphia does not abound in manufacturing estab- lishments. The predominance of British goods has shut up many workshops that were employed during the late war. Paper is manufactured in great quantities in Penn- sylvania. Founderies for coarse cast iron articles are numerous. In town there are two manufactories of lead shot. Printing is carried on to a considerable extent, and executed in a superb style. It is said that one of the late Edinburgh novels was here set up in types in one 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 59 day. The quarto edition of Joel Barlow's Columbiad is an unrivalled specimen of printing. The types were cast by Messrs. Binnie and Ronaldsons, who, by their skill and individual exertions, have saved the United States from importing these essential literary implements. Mr. Melish's 27 geographical establishment, is another promi- nent concern. He is continually embodying the most recent government surveys of the interior, into the general maps of the country. At Lehigh Falls, on the Schuylkill, there is a mill for cutting brads, which produces no less than two hundred in a minute. Philadelphia is in various respects well adapted to manufacture; if the facilities which it presents for its advancement are neglected, the city must decline, as the trade of New York and Baltimore is making rapid progress. The new road from the latter city to the Ohio, 28 and the extension of carriage, by steam boats, through the Mississippi and the Ohio, are all cir- cumstances which tend to supersede Philadelphia as a market and as a thoroughfare. At present, vast quantities of English goods are selling by auction in the ports of the United States. New York is the chief mart in this way. Merchants from the coun- try, attend sometimes these [34] sales for many days, and even for weeks together. Public sales, and the present low prices, are very injurious to the merchants and man- ufacturers of England. Probably the market of Philadelphia displays the great- est quantity of fruits and vegetables in the world. Boat loads are brought by the Delaware, and numerous wag- gons come loaded from the interior. Peaches, apples, 87 For a sketch of John Melish, see Bradbury's Travels, volume v of our series, note 129. — Ed. " For a brief description of the National Road, see Harris's Journal, volume iii of our series, note 45. — Ed. 60 Early Western Travels [Vol. o pears, melons, cucumbers, pine apples, sweet potatoes, onions, &c. are plentiful beyond example. The cleanliness and the civil address of persons who vend provisions in the market, are truly gratifying: if a speck is to be seen on the white apron of the butcher, it may be inferred that it came there on the same morning. Girls arrive on horseback, or driving light waggons, to sell vegetables, or the produce of the dairy. Many of these females, I am told, are the daughters of farmers who are in good circumstances. Here are none of the lazzaroni hucksters of fruit and sweet-meats, that form such a deplorable spectacle in the finest cities of Britain; nor of the miserables who rise earlier than the sun, to pick from amongst the ashes, the charred offal of their neighbour's fire. September 3. To-day I have seen a man sprawling on the ground in a state of intoxication ; he is a native of Ire- land. This is the first instance of the kind which I have seen in America. From this incident, I do not mean to represent that the people here do not drink spirituous liquors. The truth is, that many drink of them almost the moment after they get out of bed, and also at fre- quent intervals during the day; but though this fact has been noticed, the first conclusion is nevertheless true, that excessive drinking is rare. [37] The saw for cross-cutting timber for fuel, is a tool which, for superior expedition, recommends itself to joiners and others. The following figure is a representa- tion of it. AB is the blade, about thirty inches long, and about two inches broad. It is very thin, and its teeth are very slightly bent to the right and left, so that it makes a nar- row cut, through which the slender blade moves with little 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 61 friction, — hence its facilities. The crooked stick ECA is the handle, FDB is another crooked stick, into which the blade is fixed at B. The wooden bar CD serves for fulcra, over which the blade is stretched by twisting the small rope EF, by means of the peg GH. The sawing of fire-wood, and many other sorts of hard labour, are chiefly performed by black people. Happily, very few of these are now slaves in Pennsylvania. Free blacks, it is understood, have no difficulty in earning the means of subsistence, but the circumstance of their being despised and degraded, has had bad effects on their char- acter. Even the Quakers, who have so honourably pro- moted negro emancipation, allot a separate part of the church to people of colour. In the state prison, too, they are separated from whites. These odious distinctions should be abolished in a free country. Negroes are stigmatized as an inferior race; indolent, dishonest, and vindictive in the extreme. [38] There can be no doubt that, in many instances, these characteristics are too just, but it cannot be otherwise, while moral cul- ture is, in a great measure, withheld from them, while they are excluded from the society of the wise and the good, and while the hope of applause gives no stimulus to the coloured man. Moral or immoral, he is a negro. This, 62 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 of itself, is enough to keep him down. If Africans were placed on a similar footing, and with the same opportuni- ties, as their white neighbours, and if they still kept behind, we might then begin to suspect a radical defect in then- nature. But, as they are, it cannot be pretended that the experiment has been made. For some time past, the democratic party have been nominating candidates for their general support in the en- suing election. No doubt is entertained of a democratic preponderance in the next session of Congress. The Fed- eralist cabal is now disconcerted in this part of the Union. The mercenary avarice that would barter the indepen- dence of America for English goods, was never less for- midable than now. Here, as at New York, boarding houses are to be found, varying from the simplest accommodations, to elegance and luxury. The person who lives in a house where a high price is paid for board, is separated from the poorer class, and his acquaintances and associates are people in affluent circumstances and polished education; he is as free in the choice of his society as he possibly can be. Without doors, however, persons of lesser note are not treated with hauteur, and in transacting business the ut- most affability prevails. The dress worn in temperate weather is the same as in Britain, with this difference only, that pantaloons [39] are almost universal: the shorter small-clothes are used only by Quakers. On Sundays it would be difficult to discrim- inate betwixt the hired girl and the daughter in a genteel family, were drapery the sole criterion. Attentive obser- vation of the people on the streets, would convince any one of the general diffusion of comfort and competence. The symptoms of republican equality are visible in all 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 63 the members of the community. I have seen several curi- ous instances of this, which would surprise those accus- tomed only to the manners of the old world. For exam- ple, the Mayor is a respectable-looking, plainly dressed gentleman, and apparently a penetrating and efficient police magistrate. On a late occasion the court was crowded, and the weather hot; he desired a person in attendance to bring cold water. It was brought in a brown jug, not accompanied with a glass. A person within the railing (probably a lawyer or clerk, more thirsty than his honour) intercepted the vessel, drank, and then handed it to the Judge. On the Sabbath, we do not witness all the stillness and solemnity that usually characterize a presbyterian town. On the morning of that day, I have seen loaded waggons start in the market street, for the westward. A grocer, opposite to the house where I board, has two shops, one of them he keeps open for the sale of liquor, segars, &c. In a late newspaper, a complaint appeared against bringing cattle into the street for sale on Sunday afternoon. If this complaint was founded on truth, it is at least evident that it was addressed to citizens who, it was believed, would suppress the evil. I am inclined to think that a very great proportion of the people spend the day in the duties of [40] religion; but some here, as in other places, employ it purely as a day of rest; some as a day of amusement; and others in visiting friends, or other convivial meetings. On a Sunday afternoon I have heard many reports of guns, in the neighbouring woods or swamps. You will consider all this as a foul blot on the fair character of the City of Brethren; but I trust that your liberality will not impute to the jurisprudence of America, pre-existing customs, that, at every stage of the settlement, must have been im- 64 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ported from England; even from a country which pays tithes, for the support of a priesthood. Every day numbers of European emigrants are to be seen in the streets. The ingress is greater than at any former time. I have never heard of another feeling than good wishes to them. For my own part, I have met with several receptions kinder than I ever could have antici- pated; and have become acquainted with a number of excellent citizens, whose approbation will always be suffi- cient to convey a high gratification to my mind. [41] LETTER IV 29 Journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburg — Lancaster — Elizabeth Town — The River Susquehana — Harrisburg — Carlisle — Chambersburg — Cove Mountain — Mac- cbnnel's Town — Sidelong-hill — The river Juniata — Bedford — The Allegany Ridge — Stoystown — Laurel- hill — Lauchlinstown — Chesnut Ridge — Greensburg — Adamsburg — Pittsburg — Interspersed remarks on the Country, Taverns, &c. — Notices of Emigrants, and occurrences by the way. Pittsburg, 2&th September. The contents of this will be composed of notes taken on my journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. 30 *• For notes on the following places mentioned in this chapter, see Post's Journals, volume i of our series: Harrisburg, note 73; Carlisle, note 75; Shippens- burg, note 76; Loudon, note 78; Bedford, note 81. F. A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series: Greensburg, note 16. Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series: Elizabethtown, note 7; Middletown, note 9; Chambersburg, note 16; Bloody Run, note 18. — Ed. 10 Flint's route to Pittsburg was by way of the new Lancaster pike — the first macadamized American road — and onward over the central Pennsylvania route through Bedford, Ligonier, and Greensburg. Much ado was made over the opening of the Cumberland Road across the Alleghenies; but until the building of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway to Cumberland, Maryland, in 1845, the central Pennsylvania route seems to have been the popular one from Washing- 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 65 On the morning of the 20th of September, I went to the Coach-Office in Philadelphia to take my seat. Such is the number of travellers that I found it necessary to take out a ticket two days previously. The mail-coach is a large clumsy vehicle, carrying twelve passengers. It is greatly encumbered by large bags, which are enormously swollen by the bulk of news- papers. As a substitute for glass windows, a large roll of leather is let down on each side in bad weather. During the greater part of the day our route was through a part of the country of a clayey soil, moderately fertile, and of a flat insipid surface. Late in the afternoon, we passed some land of a finer mould, and more elegant structure, with fruit trees bending under their load. The Indian [42] corn is nearly ripe, and is a great crop this year. The stalks are generally about eight feet high. The people have been picking the leaves off this sort of crop, and setting them up between the rows in conical bunches, to be preserved as winter food for the cattle. We passed several family waggons moving westward. The young and the strong walking, the aged and infants riding. Waggons for removing families, and those fo carrying goods to Pittsburg, have a canvass cover, stretched over hoops that pass from one side of the waggon to the other, in the form of an arch. The front is left open, to give the passengers within the vehicle the benefit of a free circulation of cool air. Lancaster is a large town, well known for the manufac- ton and Philadelphia to Pittsburg. John Melish's map in Morris Birkbeck, Letters from Illinois (Philadelphia, 1818), does not give the Cumberland Road, although it outlines the old Northwestern turnpike from Cumberland to Parkers- burg, West Virginia. Almost all English travelers passed westward over the Pennsylvania Road, which was two hundred and ninety-four miles in length, according to Melish, Traveller's Directory, p. 69. — Ed. 66 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ture of rifle-guns. We were too late in the evening for having a distinct sight of the place, or of the country towards Elizabeth Town, which is much commended. September 21. The coach stopped at Elizabeth Town, last night, for three hours, and started again before three o'clock. We were near Middletown (eight miles on our way) before the light disclosed to our eyes a pleasant and fertile country. It was near Middletown that we got the first peep of the river Susquehana, which is here about a mile in breadth. The trees on the east bank, confining the view to the right and left, produced an illusory effect, almost imposing on the mind a lake instead of the river. The highly trans- parent state of the air, and the placid surface of the water, united in producing a most distinct reflexion of the bold banks on the opposite side. Cliffs, partially concealed by a luxuriant growth of trees, sprung from the detritus below, and by smaller [43] ones rooted in the rifted rocks. Over these a rising back ground is laid out in cultivated fields. The eye is not soon tired of looking on a scene so richly furnished, and so gay. Harrisburg, the seat of legislature of Pennsylvania, is a small town which stands on a low bottom by the river; a pleasant, but apparently an unhealthy situation. Oppo- site to the town is a small island in the river, connected with the eastern and western shores by very long wooden bridges. The waters of the Susquehana are limpid, but shallow at this place, and ill adapted to navigation, ex- cept in times of flood. The country immediately west of the Susquehana is truly delightful. The soil, whether occupied by the nat- ural woods, orchards, or crops, is covered with a profuse vegetation; and the superficial aspect altogether agree- 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 67 able. The best sort of houses are of limestone; they shew nothing of fine taste or neat workmanship, but are far superior in durability and appearance to the wooden erec- tions so common here. Barns are much larger, and fre- quently neater than the adjoining dwellings. Towards Carlisle, the road passes through lands inferior to the lower country, seen in the forenoon. The surface of limestone rocks, and large detached blocks of the same mineral, interrupt the plough in the field, and the wheeled carriage on the road. Carlisle, though in a newly settled country, has an ap- pearance somewhat antiquated. With so much grass growing in the streets, a suspicion arises that there is not much traffic here. Shippingsburg is a place more recently founded than the last, but has, notwithstanding, contracted something like the rust of time. Wooden [44] erections soon acquire a weather-beaten appearance. The subsidence of log houses discloses chinks, shewing that they are well ven- tilated in summer, but not the most comfortable lodg- ments for the winter. At Chambersburg the coach halted during the night. The rough roads already surmounted, and the report of worse still before us, determined two of the passengers, besides myself, to walk, as an easier mode of travelling over the mountains. Chambersburg is 143 miles from Philadelphia, and 155 from Pittsburg; and lies in the inter- section of the roads from York, Baltimore, and Phil- adelphia. Several branches of what has been very prop- erly called the current of emigration, being here united, strangers from the eastern country, and from Europe, are passing in an unceasing train. An intelligent gentleman, at this place, informed me, that this stream of emigration 68 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 has flowed more copiously this year, than at any former period; and that the people now moving westward, are ten times more numerous than they were, ten years ago. His computation is founded on the comparative amount of the stage-coach business, and on careful observation. This astonishing statement is, in some degree, counte- nanced by a late notice in a New York newspaper, that stated the number of emigrants which arrived in that port during the week, ending the 31st of August last, to be 2050. The gentleman alluded to, says, that shades of character, sensibly different from one another, are forming in the western States. He represents the Kentuckians to be a high-toned people, who frequently announce their coun- try, as if afraid of being mistaken for inhabitants of Ohio State; and the Ohians, as having less pride of country, being less assuming in their [45] demeanour, but not less agreeable in conversation, nor less punctual in business transactions. Were it not for the intelligence of my pene- trating informant, and for his great intercourse with travel- lers, I would certainly not have remarked the supposed distinction of these provincial characters. If the differ- ence really exists, it will be difficult to assign any moral cause that is adequate; unless it be the keeping slaves in Kentucky, a species of stock not permitted by the consti- tution of Ohio. September 22. We found a waggoner who agreed to carry our travelling necessaries to Pittsburg. For my portmanteau, weighing about fourteen pounds, he charged three dollars, alleging the trouble that attends putting small articles within doors every night. This is an instance of one man measuring his demand by the urgent situation of another. The jolting that waggons undergo in this rugged country, render it indispensable that baggage be packed with the utmost care. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 69 The two young gentlemen with whom I started, are Americans, good walkers, and cheerful companions. One mile to the north of Chambersburg the road ascends a steep hill of slate clay, the first stratified substance that I have seen overlaying the limestone. The soil on the summit is so excessively poor, that I am surprised to see such ground cultivated in this country. Several taverns by the road are log-houses constructed by laying squared trees horizontally, in a quadrangular position, in a way similar to that in which house-joiners pile up boards to be dried. As the erection advances, the last laid or uppermost log is notched on the upper side, near both ends, for the reception of the next cross pieces. [46] The interstices are filled up with lime or clay, and the roofs are of shingles, or thin boards. Frame houses con- sist of erect posts, set in sills or horizontal foundation beams. Over the tops of the posts other horizontal pieces are laid, forming the summit of the wall. The outside of the posts are covered over with thin boards, ranged hor- izontally, the upper one uniformly overlaying the edge of that immediately under it. The inside is most commonly lined with lathing and plaster, but the last piece of finery is frequently dispensed with. Near Baker's tavern, six miles from Chambersburg, the waggon wheels have uncovered a fine slate clay, fit to be used as slate pencils. The same kind of substance is to be seen in the adjoining stream. Around Campbell's Town, seven miles from Chambers- burg, the land is bleak, and apparently poor; to the north- west an extended high ridge exposes to view a large tract of romantic wood scenery. At thirteen miles from Chambersburg is Loudon, a few houses only, two of them taverns, situated at the foot of the ridge just mentioned, which is called the Cove Moun- 70 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 tain. A new road is formed over it. The ascent is wind- ing and gradual, so that seven miles are occupied in sur- mounting the formidable barrier. The darkness of the night, and the great quantity of timber on both sides, rendered this part of our journey very gloomy. Not a sound was to be heard but that of the Catadid, a large green insect, whose note resembles its name, as nearly as it can any articulate sound. Near the top of the hill stands a miserable log tavern filled with movers, a name for settlers removing to the western country. At the summit, we were accosted in the Irish accent. The individual [47] told us that he was so much exhausted, that he could not proceed farther, and that he had laid himself down among the trees. 31 At MacconneFs Town, we knocked at the door of a tavern, heard a noise within, which convinced us that the people were astir, but not willing to hear us. On making louder applications, the landlord saluted us, "Who's there?" With some reluctance he let us in, grumbling at the lateness of our arrival, it being ten minutes past ten o'clock. He affected to be unwilling to let us have supper; but while he was refusing, a female commenced cooking for us. September 23. From beds which we last night saw on the floor of the bar-room, a numerous group of Swiss emi- grants had arisen. One of them, an old man with a long beard, has a truly patriarchal appearance. The females wear hats, and are of a hardy and masculine form. About a mile from MacconnePs Town, is the foot of another steep ridge; a new road over it is nearly finished. Here we met with a foot traveller, who told us that he had 81 The evening was warm, and, (not to exaggerate the difficulty of removing him to the next town,) we judged that he was in no danger. — Flint. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 71 settled in Illinois, by the Wabash, about fifty miles above Vincennes. The ground, he said, ' ' is as good as ever man set foot on." 32 He had not heard of Mr. Birkbeck's settle- ment: this, together with his appearance, convinced us that he is a hunter of the woods. He was on his way to remove his family from New York state, a journey of 1400 miles. Called at Noble's tavern for breakfast. The hostess could not accommodate us with it. She was in great bustle, having thirty highway labourers [48] at board, had no bread baked, and politely expressed her regret at being so circumstanced, but assured us, that, by going half a mile forward to the next tavern, we would be attended to. Mr. Noble is a member of the Pennsylvania Senate; the frank and obliging disposition of his wife demands my acknowledgment . At the next tavern the prediction of a breakfast was verified : it was largely furnished, but not with the greatest dispatch. The forenoon was hot, something like the greatest heat I have felt in Scotland. The mornings and evenings were agreeably cool, the air usually still, and the sky highly serene. Sidelong-hill is a steep ascent. The waggon path is worn into a deep rut or ravine, so that carriages cannot pass one another in some parts of it. The first waggoner that gets into the track, blows a horn, to warn others against meeting him in the narrow pass. The waggoners are understood to be as friendly toward one another as seamen are, and that cases are not wanting, where "This was the well-known settlement established in 1818 by the English philanthropists Morris Birkbeck and George Flower, at Wanborough and Albion, in southeastern Illinois, within the present Edwards County. For a full account of these settlements, see volume x of our series. — Ed. J 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 one has waited several days, assisting another to rent his carriage. On Sidelong-hill we came up with a singular party of travellers, — a man with his wife and ten children. The eldest of the progeny had the youngest tied on his back; and the father pushed a wheelbarrow, containing the moveables of the family. They were removing from New Jersey to the State of Ohio, a land journey of 340 miles to Pittsburg. Abrupt edges of rocks, higher than the wheel, occasionally interrupt the passage. Their humble carriage must be lifted over these. A little farther onward we passed a young woman, carrying a sucking child in her arms, and leading a very little one by the hand. It is impossible to take particular notice [49] of all the travellers on the way. We could scarcely look before or behind, without seeing some of them. The Canterbury pilgrims were not so diversified nor so interesting as these. Crossed the river Juniata by a wooden bridge, supported by two strong chains, hung in the manner of a slack rope, over the tops of posts, (one at each end,) about twenty feet higher than the road. The curve formed by the chain passes low enough to come under, and support several of the cross beams under the middle of the bridge. Other parts of the bridge are supported by perpendicular ties, that pass, from the roadway upward, to the chains. The Juniata runs here in a deep chasm, between cliffs of slate clay; the bridge has consequently a magical effect. The river is shallow, but at other seasons of the year is navi- gable. The land is poor and parched, and is formed of steep, irregular knolls. Passed Bloody Run, a town of a very few houses, but with two taverns. A romantic site in a low valley of the Juniata. The declining light of the evening had softened 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 73 the outline of the timber on the hills beyond the river, so that the scene brought to my recollection the heaths of a well known land. Stopped for the night in a tolerably good tavern, two miles from Bloody Run. The bar-room is nearly filled with people. On our being shewn to a more retired apart- ment, I could see one person make a wry face, and then smile to his acquaintance. It would seem that our being separated from the large party, was not attended by the most pleasant sensations. September 24. Last night we slept in a large room con- taining five beds. It was proposed that one of these should hold two of us. My companions went together, and I congratulated myself on [50] monopolizing one of the beds, — but here I reckoned without mine host. About midnight a man entered the room, groped all the beds, and finding that I was alone, tumbled in beside me. Such is a common occurrence, I am told, in this country, but it is the first time that I have met with it. In the morning I discovered that my neighbour was a person of good ad- dress, and respectable appearance. After resuming our journey, we came up to a family rising from their beds by the embers of a fire in the wood. The father fired off a rifle, which it would seem he had kept in readiness for defence. There can be no great ob- jection to sleeping in the woods, in such fine weather. From several heaps of ashes that we have seen by the sides of the road, it is evident that the practice is common, even where taverns are numerous. Emigrants carry their moveables in one horse carts, or two or four horse waggons, as the quantity of goods may require. They carry much of their provisions from Philadelphia, and other towns, and many of them sleep in their own bed clothes, on the 74 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 floors of bar-rooms in the taverns. For this kind of lodg- ing they usually pay twenty-five cents a family. The dollar is the integer of money in the United States, as universal as the pound is in Britain. In the former country, cents or hundredth parts of a dollar are the lowest fractional parts in use. Rating the dollar at four shillings and sixpence sterling, the cent of America is eight per cent, more than the halfpenny of Britain. The fractional di- visions of the dollar, are J^, %, % y and T V, or 50 cents, 25 cents, 12% cents, and 6% cents. Silver coins repre- senting all these quantities are in circulation. The pecu- liarity in the convenience of quantities [51] derived from continual bisection, is known to all who are acquainted with the theory of numbers. It is impossible to say whether it is cheaper to travel with a family, by purchasing a waggon and horses at Philadelphia, or by hiring one of the waggons that pass regularly to Pittsburg. This depends on the price paid for carriage at the particular time, and also on that to be paid for waggon and horses at Philadelphia. In the one case, the waggoner is paid for the weight of the goods, and for that of the persons who ride; and in the other case, the waggon and horses may be expected to sell at, or under, half the price paid for them at the sea-port. The great number of family waggons now on the road, amounts to a presumption that this mode of travelling is now thought to be the cheaper. Crossed the Juniata once more. The bridge is a new stone erection of bad workmanship. We are told that it fell down repeatedly. To insure its standing, a step is left on the head of each abutment, on these the wooden centres rest. They are not withdrawn, so that the beams must give way, before it can be ascertained whether the effective 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 75 arch is of wood or of stone!!! The parapets have been coped with boards, but the wind has uncovered one of the sides!!! * The steep banks are covered with trees. Oak, ash, hickory, chesnut, and walnut, are the most prevalent species. Bedford, the head town of the county of that name, is a considerable place, with some neat brick and stone houses. In our progress this forenoon we have seen much poor scorched land. Indian corn is short and shrivelled; pas- ture bad, and the woods without the strength they attain in a richer soil. Orchards [52] bear well; the traveller may knock down the apples that overhang the road, and may probably pass without complaint. Pear trees are scarce, if at all to be seen. Probably they are subject to canker on this light dry soil. Peaches are small. A farmer by the road side, offered us a few of the latter sort of fruit, unasked. Ironstone is abundant, in one place the new road is formed of it. In another, we saw prismatic pieces of nine or ten inches square, and about four feet long. The prevailing strata are of clay schist ; the surface is hilly and broken. In the afternoon, we found ourselves climbing a steep, without being aware that it was the side of the Allegany ridge, not having previously seen any eminence through the woods. The mountain is itself so much enveloped in foliage, that we can only with the utmost difficulty have a single peep of the lower country behind. The lower country, where seen, has nearly all the sameness of the surface of the ocean. The farthest visible ridge appears blue, and its outline looks as smooth as if it were not cov- ered by timber. We could not recognise a trace of our way hither. y6 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 Met several waggons descending; they are obliged to move along in a narrow track, on the very brink of a preci- pice. The road winds round a point of the hill, and slants along the side of a tremendous ravine, that, as it were, cleaves the eastern side of the ridge in two parts. The trees render it almost impossible to see across the chasm. The scenery is naturally romantic, but not yet exposed to the eye of the admiring traveller. The large timber on the summit indicates a degree of fer- tility not usual on hill tops; and far surpassing that of the country near the south east foot of the mountain. The cleared ground by a [53] tavern on the height is good. The top of this range of mountains is a table land, swelled with irregularities, and in some parts strewed with large de- tached blocks of sandstone; the same kind of mineral of which the horizontal strata of the mountain is composed. Were it not for the recollection of the steep ascended, we should never have surmised that we were here on the 11 spine of the United States." Met with two young men going eastward. One of my companions saluted them, l ' You are going the wrong way." il No," replied one of the others, "You are going the wrong way. I have been at Pittsburg, and in the State of Ohio, and I declare it is the most detestable country in the world." Stotler's tavern was full of people; we had no sooner entered the door than we were in a crowd. We could not remain for the night. We set out for the next tavern, and at dusk came into a track so wet and miry, that it would be considered im- passable in some parts of the world. We groped our way along the side of it, over logs, and occasionally through 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America jj the wood, to avoid the horrid bog. Two young men of the neighbourhood came forward, told us that we had just entered upon the worst part of the road, and, as they were going in the same direction, offered to conduct us. The next tavern was one where whisky is sold, but the occupiers of it could not be troubled with lodging travel- lers. They told us that there is another tavern a mile for- ward. The road still bad; but as our conductors were going farther, we accompanied them. The other tavern was so completely thronged with movers, that a multitude of them had taken up their lodg- ings in a barn. We were permitted [54] to stop, on con- dition of all three sleeping in one bed, which was said to be a large and a good one. Two-thirds of the bar-room floor was covered by the beds of weary travellers, lying closely side by side, and the remaining part occupied by people engaged in drinking, and noisy conversation. The room in which supper was taken, was too small to admit any large proportion of the company at once, of conse- quence we had to wait the alternation of a supper party and a cooking, before we got to the table. This accumulation of travellers is chiefly occasioned by people in the eastern States having reaped and disposed of their crops at this season, and on that account finding it a convenient time for removing to the western country. September 25. At half past five all were in bustle, pre- paring for the road: Some settling bill with the hostess, others waiting to settle: Some round a long wooden trough at the pump, washing, or drying themselves with their pocket-handkerchiefs: Some Americans drinking their morning's bitters, (spirits with rue, wormwood, or other vegetable infusion:) Some women catching children who yS Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 had escaped naked from bed, others packing up bed clothes, or putting them into waggons: Waggoners harness- ing their horses, &c. The little piece of ground cleared here is very rich, the best pasture I have seen in America; but the winter in this high region must be severe. Two miles onward there are fine fields and orchards. The interval land is meadow. No Indian corn is to be seen. By the road side, what miners call the vise of a bed of coal is perceptible. Stoystown is delightfully situated on the north bank of a deep vale. 33 The neighbouring grounds are but recently cleared. If we may judge from [55] the appearance of the houses, tavern-keepers are the principal men of the place; one of these is dubbed Major. The land on this side of the Allegany ridge is much better than immediately on the eastern side of it. At present travellers and horses consume a great part of the produce, but as cultivation proceeds, the distance from market must become more sensibly felt. The ridge, Laurel Hill, is about seven miles broad from one side of the base to the other. We observed a rattle- snake that had been recently killed on the road; it was about three and a half feet long, and about an inch and a half in diameter. The people say, that only two species of serpents are poisonous here; but there are probably more, as no less than thirty species have been enumerated in the United States. Laurel Hill being broad, and considerably steep, must be of prominent height. Of its elevation relatively to the 33 Colonel Bouquet constructed a fort at the present site of Stoystown in 1758, and a small force was stationed there until Pontiac's War. The name Stoystown came from the patronymic of a Revolutionary soldier who laid out the town. It is situated on Stony Creek, ten miles from Somerset. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 79 Allegany ridge, I could not even venture an opinion. To be continually enveloped in woods, without seeing to any great distance, must be a condition disagreeable to the in- quisitive traveller, and to the geologist. We lodged at Lauchlin's Town; 34 near this place is a small furnace. Malleable iron is sold at ten cents a-pound. September 26. On this day there was a heavy shower of rain, the first since our leaving Philadelphia. Passed Chesnut ridge, near Somerset. 35 At a tavern here, some men were drinking and swearing most hideously. It is much to be regretted that this vice is so prevalent in a country where so many other things are to be commended. Greensburg, the county town of Westmoreland, is a considerable place, built on rising ground. [56] Here, and westward of this place, the land is fine, but hilly. Stopped at Adamsburg, six miles from Greensburg. September 28. Yesterday my companions set out for Pittsburg. These young gentlemen have conducted them- selves in the style which distinguishes the well-bred from the uncultivated and obtrusive man. They put no such questions as, ■ ' Where are you going ? — What are you to do there?" &c. so common in this land of liberty. Of my companions I only knew their names, the States they came from, and that they are going to the western country. Yesterday morning the hoar-frost was faintly visible on the newly mown grass, the first that has been observed this season. No danger is now to be apprehended from the cold, as Indian corn, (the latest of the crops,) is ripe. The woods and orchards have their young shoots well ma- tured, and will soon be coloured with their autumnal tinge. 84 Laughlin Town is about five miles southeast of Loudon. — Ed. 38 Somerset, situated near the centre of Somerset County, was first settled by a party of frontiersmen about 1765. Laid out by a settler named Bruner about twenty years later, it was for some time called Brunerstown. — Ed. 80 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 A majority of the people in the neighbourhood of Adams- burg are Germans, or their descendants. Although most of them can speak in English, their conversation with one another is in German, and a clergyman in the neighbour- hood preaches in that language. Resumed my journey; called at L — r's tavern, eleven miles from Greensburg. The hostess, after promising to give me breakfast, shewed me into a front room. After waiting about twenty-five minutes, two ladies on horse- back, apparently turned of forty, alighted before the window; the hostess ran forward, embraced and kissed them. Her salute was the loudest articulation of the kind that I have heard. She came into the room, and told [57] me, she had got so much engaged, that she could not be troubled with my breakfast, and that there is a tavern only half a mile forward where I would be attended to. The good lady will be freed from every imputation of unkind- ness, since I have related how cordially she welcomed her female friends who engrossed all her attention. Met with a man who asked me if I knew of ' ' any trav- eller who would rest himself and thrash for a few days ?" To-day I begin to find the estimate formed of foot travel- lers in this country of equality. It is an undoubted truth that the rider is two steps higher than the footman. Saw a drove of large cattle on their way from the State of Ohio for Philadelphia. Their condition is good, the length of the journey taken into consideration. In size and even fat, they are much superior to the Pennsylvanian stock by the sides of the road. Indeed, it is somewhat surprising to see such bad cattle on the rich lands of this State. The causes merit the strictest inquiry. Every where the wheat stubble is so much overgrown with annual weeds, that the verdure at a distance is apt 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 81 to be mistaken for pasture. This growth is occasioned by the long course of hot weather, which succeeds an early harvest. It would be advantageous if clover, or some other useful herbage, were sown amongst the crops, that the farmer might not only avail himself of the propensity to vegetation, but check the dissemination of weeds so hurtful to adjoining fields, and to the succeeding pasture. The potato crops are better than those I have seen on the coast, the plants are more vigorous, and the tubers much larger. Land partly cleared, and with some rude buildings [58] thereon, sells at from twenty to forty dollars an acre. The new road from Philadelphia to Pittsburg is now in an advanced stage of progress. 38 Much of it is finished, and corresponding parts of the old track abandoned. Probably, by two years hence, the traveller will have a turnpike from the one city to the other. The improve- ment is important, but it is not one that deserves un- qualified praise. In multitudes of cases, it passes through hollows, and over eminences, without regard to that mini- mum of declivity, which in a great measure constitutes the value of a road. In some cases, the vertical curve, formed by passing over rising grounds, is so long, that, applied laterally, the eminence surmounted, would have been alto- gether avoided. The road from Baltimore to Wheeling, now constructing at the expense of the government, is un- derstood to be more judiciously laid off. Its competition must, ere long, give the proprietors of the Philadelphia line, an instructive lesson on the economical application of labour. M This route was locally known as the Chambersburg and Pittsburg turn- pike, at either end being called by its opposite terminus. It was built in general alignment with Forbes' s Road, cut along the old trading-path through the forests in 1758. See Post's Journals^ volume i of our series, p. 242. — Ed. 82 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 Produce, in the higher parts of Pennsylvania, may be stated at the rates of from twenty to twenty-five bushels of wheat, and from twenty-five to thirty bushels of Indian corn, per acre. These quantities are raised under slov- enly management, and without much labour. A farmer expressed his contentment under existing circumstances; a dollar a bushel for wheat (he said) is a fair price, where the farmer pays neither rent nor taxes to the government. His farm, for example, pays four or five dollars a-year, for the support of the state and county officers. Labourers receive a dollar per day, and can find board for two dollars a-week. Mechanics, in [59] most cases, earn more. Where health is enjoyed, in this place, poverty bespeaks indolence, or want of economy. Arrived at Pittsburg, after a pleasant journey, with almost uninterrupted good weather. Some observations on this place will be the subject of my next letter. LETTER V Pittsburg — Situation — Manufactures — Occurrences — People In this letter I shall not confine myself to a description of the city of Pittsburg. Occurrences and remarks, with, or without dates, will be promiscuously introduced. This method may not be after the manner of regular epistolary writing; but to me it is the easiest way, and it may have the advantage of shewing you how a great part of my time is occupied. Pittsburg stands on the point of land formed by the con- fluence of the rivers Allegany and Monongahela. The flat ground on which the greater part of the buildings stand, 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 83 is upwards of thirty feet above the level of the rivers at low water. Part of the land adjoining to the Allegany is only about twenty feet high, and liable to occasional inunda- tions. The Allegany here runs south-west by west, and the Monongahela nearly due west, as does the Ohio in continuation. This, together [60] with the Monongahela being broader than the Allegany, gives to the former the appearance of being the principal river, and to the latter the character of a tributary stream. The Monongahela is muddy and sluggish opposite to the town; and though about 400 yards broad there, probably furnishes much less water to the Ohio than does the Allegany, which is only about half the width, but has a brisk current. The Alle- gany and the Monongahela have been described as being each about the size of the Tay; but the latter river is much inferior to either in magnitude; and the comparison must have been influenced by the Tay's being the fittest river with which to compare it in Britain, and not by its actual parity with either. Between the rivers, there is a ridge of about 300 feet high, which terminates with a gentle slope in the most inland part of the town. This is the hill that a florid exaggerator has described as a solid mass of coal. The description was unnecessary, as the coal field in which the hills of Pittsburg lie, may be considered as the most ex- tensive that are known, although the only bed here is no more than four and a half feet thick. The strata being horizontal, and the out-burst of the coal about the middle- steep of the hill, it is not necessary to make shafts, as it is level free, and may be quarried and carried out in wheel barrows, like road-metal. The hill on the west side of the Monongahela, is a 84 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 craggy steep, almost close to the river. It is covered with trees to the summit, and tends, more than any other object, to give to Pittsburg a picturesque appearance. On the north-west side of the Allegany lies a beautiful plain, the site of the new town Allegany. 37 Beyond the plain lies another ridge corresponding [61] in elevation, and having a continuation of the same strata that compose the two heights formerly noticed. Thus Pittsburg is almost surrounded by high wooded grounds. The heavy showers of rain that occasionally fall in this country, form a great objection to the cultivation of steep lands. The torrents sweep away much of the loose soil, cut deep ruts, and carry down slate-clay, and spread it on the foot slopes, and on the flat grounds below. The following enumeration of the manufacturing people of Pittsburg was made last year. It gives some view of the nature and extent of the business carried on. Hands Employers Employed i Augur Maker 6 1 Bellows Maker 3 18 Blacksmiths 74 3 Brewers 17 3 Brush Makers 7 1 Button Maker . . •■•-.- • °" 2 Cotton Spinners 36 7 Cabinet-Makers 43 ii Copper and Tin Smiths .... 100 1 Currier 4 2 Cutlers 6 4 Iron Founders 87 87 The Pennsylvania legislature, having purchased from the Indians the land north and west of the Allegheny River, in 1789 ordered a tract opposite Pitts- burg to be laid off in lots and sold to satisfy the claims of the state troops. Alle- gheny City, thus established, by its proximity to Pittsburg shared in the rapid growth of the latter, becoming a borough in 1828 and a city in 1840. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 85 Hands Employers Employed 3 Gun Smiths 14 2 Flint Glass Manufactories 82 3 Green ditto ditto 92 2 Hardware Manufactories . i7 7 Hatters . 49 1 Locksmith 7 1 Linen Manufactory 20 1 Nail ditto 47 1 Paper Maker . 40 [62] 1 Pattern Maker 2 3 Plane Makers . 6 1 Potter (fine ware) 5 1 Rope Maker . 8 1 Spinning Machine Maker 6 1 Spanish Brown Manufactory 2 1 Silver Plater . . . . ■ ■ 40 2 Steam-Engine Makers 70 2 Steam Grist Mills .... 10 6 Saddlers ..... 60 5 Silversmiths and Watch Repairers. . 17 14 Shoe and Boot Makers 109 7 Tanners and Curriers 47 4 Tallow Chandlers .... 7 4 Tobacconists . ... 23 2 Weavers . . . . . 9 3 Windsor Chair Makers 23 2 Woolen Manufactories 30 1 Wire Drawer . 12 1 White Lead Factory 6 Tot al 1280 Besides the above, it is surmised that there are three hundred and fifty-seven manufacturing people, of which no estimate has been furnished by the conductors. There is, besides, a chemical manufactory, in which ammonia, 86 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 copperas, lamp black, ivory black, and various acids, are prepared. Formerly large ships were built at Pittsburg, which sailed down the river during floods: large keel boats, cap- able of either ascending or descending the river.' 8 Square arks, family boats, and small skiffs, are built in great numbers. A steamboat of 330 tons burden, for the navi- gation of the Mississippi and Ohio, is nearly completed. The conveyance of goods from Philadelphia [63] and Baltimore, together with their warehousing and boating, produces much business here. In the year 1813, no less than 4055 waggons, engaged in this trade, were calculated to have passed the road. The number employed now must be considerably increased. Pittsburg also derives much advantage from its being the thoroughfare of settlers for the western country. Here they sell their horses and waggons; here they often remain waiting for a rise of water. Here also they purchase boats, and lay in a stock of provisions for their passage down the river. The waters of the Ohio are now lower than they have been for many years past. Merchants with their goods, and families with their baggage, find it impossible to get downward. Some whose moveables are light, are making the attempt. Many emigrants are proceeding with their waggons by land. Where the distance does not exceed three or four hundred miles, this will, at present, be found the more economical and expeditious mode of travelling. 38 The building of keel-boats, barges, and later brigs and schooners, had been one of the foremost occupations of Pittsburg since 1790. Seaworthy ships were here launched and floated to New Orleans, whence they sailed to foreign as well as domestic ports. See Harris's Journal, volume iii of our series, pp. 349, 353. Steamboat building was begun here by agents of Fulton, seven years previous to Flint's arrival. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 87 September 30. Emigrants continue to flock westward. To-day the numerous inmates and followers of three large waggons arrived in a body. It is truly interesting to see people of different countries, and of different costumes, coming forward in the mail-coach, on horseback, and on foot. At first view, this great migration leads to the con- clusion, that oppression, and the fear of want, are in ex- tensive operation somewhere to the eastward. October 4. {Sunday.) This afternoon three fights have taken place in Bayardstown, a small appendage of Pitts- burg. 88 These originated from private quarrels in tav- erns. The combatants sallied from [64] them to the street, where the battles were fought in the presence of the passen- gers. There are five taverns in this place; of course only two of them have escaped being scenes of action. This is not in perfect agreement with the character of sobriety, absence of dissipation and gross vices, that a late describer of Pittsburg has given of its people. 40 October 9. The people are in great ferment about the ensuing election. Newspapers teem with the most viru- lent abuse; and one of the candidates for Congress has fought with a lawyer in town. It would be useless to in- quire after particulars, as facts are always differently represented by opposite parties. A farmer, who lives at the distance of a few miles from this place, told me that he is a native of Ireland, and that he had not fifty dollars in the world, fifteen years ago; now, he would not take 4000 dollars for his property. He com- menced alone, and has not followed any other occupation 89 Stephen Bayard, a colonel in the Revolutionary army, later a merchant in Pittsburg, bought from the Penns, when the town was laid out (1784), thirty- two lots on the present Penn and Liberty streets; a district known for many years as Bayardstown. — Ed. 40 An American writer. — Flint. 88 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 than the cultivation of his farm, and the sale of its produce. However strange this may appear in Europe, an individual farming in the new settlements of America, is an occurrence too common to excite wonder. October 13. To-day the inhabitants of Pennsylvania elect their Representatives in Congress, Members of the State Assembly, and County Officers. I have gone re- peatedly to the court-house of Pittsburg, to see the pop- ular proceedings. The citizens wrap up the names of the candidates they recommend in a small slip of paper, which they hand through the open pane of a window to the inspector, an officer previously appointed for [65] counting the tickets. This way of balloting, places the poor man beyond the control of his superior or creditor. I have seen no riot or confusion. Populous cities, in America, are divided into wards, where separate elections are held at the same time ; a salutary precaution, that pre- vents the assembling of great crowds. The shortness of my stay, and my limited acquaintance with the people, do not allow me to say much of their character. A considerable degree of industry is mani- fested by the bustle that pervades the town. This virtue, however, does not prevail to the extinction of dissipation. Swearing is certainly the most conspicuous vice. Some affirm that a class of people, whom they denominate low Irish, are the most immoral of the population. It gives no pleasure, to hear such a reflection on the peasantry of a country, distinguished by the hospitality, generosity, and bravery, of its people. In justice to humanity, it is neces- sary to bear in mind, that they have not enjoyed the means of a good education in their native country; and it is proper to mention, that there are natives of Ireland here, who have risen to opulence, and deserved eminence in society. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 89 The recollection of several of these, and other worthy citizens of Pittsburg, will always be accompanied with sentiments of my esteem. The weather continuing clear, and without the least prospect of a flood, I have procured a skiff, and deter- mined on proceeding down the river. The skiff is 15 \ feet long, 3 J wide across the gunwale, and 14 inches deep. This is supposed to be sufficiently large for carry- ing myself and baggage, (about 800 lbs.) The sides are composed of two boards of pine, three quarters of an inch thick; the bottom flat, and of the same material. It is a light, [66] and certainly not a strong bark. My other equipments are, a copy of the Pittsburg Navigator, (a book recommended as useful, in pointing out the proper course for avoiding bars, and the points where rapids are to be entered;) 41 small quantities of bread, cheese, and dried deer; a small flask with spirits; and a tinned cup, to be used both in drinking water from the river, and in cast- ing out bilge water. Over the after part of the skiff three hoops are fixed, in the form of an arch. A sheet stretched over these, will form a canopy under which I may sleep, by the margin of the river. LETTER VI Descend the Ohio from Pittsburg to Beaver — Occurrences and remarks there Atkinson 9 s Tavern, by Beaver, 28th October, 1818. As a great part of my notes since I last wrote, relate to rapids, bars, islands, &c. I shall omit the description of many of them, as being altogether uninteresting. 41 For the Pittsburg Navigator, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 43. — Ed. 90 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 On the 14th of October, I embarked on the Mononga- hela, about half a mile above its junction with the Alle- gany. A gentleman to whom I had been introduced, very kindly assisted me in arranging my lading, and rowed me down to the lower point of the town. The Allegany being a clear, and the Monongahela [67] a turbid river, their compound, the Ohio, as might be ex- pected, is of the intermediate character. The mud, that covers the gravel at the height of three or four feet above the present level of the water, shows, that a very slight rising of the river carries much soil along with it. One of the earliest writers who gives a detail of the beauties of this river, states, that the bottom, and even fishes, may be seen in several fathoms of water. During the present dry season, the bottom is indistinctly visible at the depth of five or six feet. The water, when taken up in a bright tinned vessel, appears to be perfectly limpid; but after standing in it for an hour, a very small sediment is deposited. From the experience of boatmen, and others who drink this water, it is understood to be healthful. To me this was a novel method of travelling. Steep ridges of hills on both sides of the river, about 300 feet above the surface of the water, and these covered with a profusion of timber, now clothed in all the variegated hues of autumn, form an avenue of the most magnificent descrip- tion. For nearly the length of six miles, the surface of the water has all the smoothness of a mill-pond, which gave an additional effect to the scenery, but which imposed on me the labour of rowing incessantly. My boat, besides being without rudder, or even that short piece of keel in the after-part which is so essential in moving forward in a straight line, went on in a zig-zag direction, occasioning 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 91 much trouble, and promising no great degree of safety on my coming into quick running water. At a rapid, six miles from Pittsburg, a boat has recently been stove. I saw the people on shore drying their goods. In this same rapid, my ill sailing bark put about broad- side to the current. On reaching the lower extremity of the declivity, [68] my situation was rather alarming. Here the violence of the current being opposed by deeper and more placid water, produces a sort of heaving motion. The sidelong motion over this swelling surface, was much aggravated by a top-heavy load. Travellers are fortu- nate when they arrive early in the season, as the stream at that period propels a boat much quicker than the most laborious rowing can do now. After having passed several rapids, which are commonly called ripples in this country, I attempted to land for the night, on the head of Dead Man's Island, a low bar covered with small willows, but found the water to be so shallow that I could not approach the dry ground, and that with a short rope, I could not effect a mooring to any log, bush, or fixed object. The possibility of an unforeseen rise of water in such a long river caused me to determine not to sleep aground, without being securely fastened. It was now nearly dark, and I judged it impossible to cross to the opposite shore to find a mooring, as the roaring of the Dead Man's Ripple, (a furious rapid, between the island and the right hand shore,) convinced me that I was already almost within its draught. The only alternative which remained, was to push into the principal stream. I adopted it, and was soon carried through an impetuous winding channel, where I could perceive large dark-col- oured masses, supposed to be rocks, above water, at small distances on each side. 92 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 October 15. Last night I put ashore about half a mile below the Dead Man's Ripple. The margin was of a convenient depth, admitting my lying aground, to avoid the danger of my leaky bark's sinking in the night. Hav- ing made it fast to a log, and piled up my boxes toward the prow, and spread three pieces of board over the seats behind for a [69] bed, I covered the three hoops with a sheet for a canopy, laid down my portmanteau for a pillow, and wrapping myself in a blanket, I went to rest. As I neither saw any light, nor heard the voice of a human being, I imagined that I was far from the neigh- bourhood of any house. The only sounds that saluted my ear, arose from bells attached to cows in the woods, and from the breakers produced by the Ripple. The sheet which served me for a roof, was not long enough to reach the sides of the boat, a cold wind that blew down the river, passed in a constant current through my lodgment, and for a considerable time prevented me from sleeping. About midnight I heard the noise of footsteps approaching me on the gravel, and looked out to see what my visitor might be: a faint glimmering of moon-light en- abled me to discover the white face of a young cow that had come down to drink. It would be imprudent to sleep ashore and leave goods in a boat on the river, boatmen being much blamed for stealing. I put off about seven o'clock in the morning. A con- tinuation of the same ridges of hills, and the same woods, bounded the view on both sides of the river. The bottom land is narrow, and the parts which have been cleared are chiefly covered with crops of Indian corn. Bottom land is of two sorts; the lower by the margin of the river; and 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 93 the higher by the foot of the ridge. The lower bottoms are about twenty feet higher than the surface of low water; but as the trees on the beach are peeled by ice and drifted wood, to the height of four or five feet above the level of the ground, occasioned by floods; it follows that the lower bottoms are subject to inundation, and that their height must be increased [70] by the earth deposited from every high rising of the waters. Nothing, in the present state of things, seems to offer a solution of the formation of the higher bottoms, which are here about twenty feet higher than the lower ones, and appear to be equally flat, and forming plains parallel to them. I shall hereafter be very attentive to facts with regard to this anomaly. About six hundred yards above the mouth of Big Beaver Creek, my skiff ran upon the top of a large mass of stone under water, which the ripplings occasioned by a slight breeze of wind, prevented me from seeing. In attempting to push her off, she upset, so as to admit a gush of water all along the lower side. The hoops over her after part, not allowing me to leap directly upon the stone, I plunged into the water and mounted the stone just in time to catch the bark by the after part, and prevent it from being carried down by the stream. By a considerable exertion, I suc- ceeded in keeping the after end close to the stone, while the fore part sunk obliquely to a great depth in the water. Here the cargo must unavoidably have slipped into the bottom of the river, except for a large box, that wedged itself into the narrow forepart of the boat, and the others, resting on it, were kept in their places. Two black men came in a skiff to my relief. They took me in, and rowed toward the shore, while I still retained my hold of the wreck, and succeeded in getting it safely moored. This 94 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 interruption happened exactly before the door of a tavern, where I was accommodated with board, and the means of having my baggage dried. Afternoon. While exposing my books to the wind, a respectable looking man, apparently a farmer, entered into conversation with me. His inquiries [71] respecting the scientific and literary personages of Edinburgh, and his acquaintance with the poetry and provincial dialect of Scotland, were more minute than I could have expected in this part of the world. October 16. I have discovered that my skiff is too weak for carrying any considerable weight. It is so much strained, that many of the nails have their heads drawn half an inch out of the timber, and others much more. The misfortune of the 15th, has probably saved me from a worse one. The system of boat building at Pittsburg cannot be too strongly reprobated. Defects in caulking, in the number, and in the strength of the nails, were in the case of my boat, disgraceful. 42 October 19. A farmer, in removing Indian corn from an island to his residence, had his flat sunk, and much of the cargo lost, within a few yards of the point where I stopped short. I am resolved on procuring a better skiff, and waiting a few days in hopes of a rise of water. Floods at or before this season of the year, are considered annual occurrences. The oldest residents recollect of only one year in which there was no autumnal rise of the Ohio. October 20. The mornings and evenings are now cool, usually about 34 of Fahrenheit's scale. To-day, at two o'clock P.M. the temperature of the sun's rays was 90 . a Had Flint read his Navigator carefully, he would have found specific warn- ings on the subject of defective boats; these were on every occasion palmed off on the uninitiated by Pittsburg sharpers. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 95 Thick fogs continue over the river in the mornings, till eight or nine o'clock. These are no doubt occasioned by the water being hotter than the air. The radiant heat passing upward, necessarily carries humidity with it, which is immediately condensed, and rendered visible by the colder air. Whenever the heat of the air is of a tem- perature equal to that of the water, the phenomenon disap- pears. The same principle may be [72] very plausibly applied, in explaining the autumnal risings of the Ohio. The great and long continued heats of summer in this country, render the air capable of accumulating a great quantity of moisture. It is not till the sun recedes con- siderably to the southward, and till a great portion of the atmosphere is cooled, that rains are precipitated over any great extent of the country. The Allegany mountains, and other high parts, are soonest cooled, and first produce a deposition of rain. Hence autumnal floods occur, which proceed from the higher country alone, without correspond- ing risings in the lower tributaries of the Ohio. In seasons when the heat continues long, the flood occurs late. With such hot days as we now enjoy, a rising in the river is not to be expected. 2&ih. Went up Beaver Creek. 43 This is a large stream, with a rapid descent over a sandstone bottom. Within three miles of its mouth there are three saw-mills, a grist- mill, an iron furnace and forge, a fulling-mill, a carding- mill, and a mill for bruising flax-seed. At the iron fur- nace, cast goods are fabricated, the coarsest that I have ever seen. Coal is abundant, but not used in reducing the ores. It has been suggested, that a navigation connecting Cay- 48 For the early history of Beaver Creek, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 93. — Ed. 96 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ahogo, on Lake Erie, with Alexandria on the Potomak, should pass through Big Beaver Creek; 44 but it appears altogether improper that such a communication should de- scend so low as the mouth of this creek, thereby incurring the ascent of the Ohio to Pittsburg, and the Monongahela to the bases of the Allegany ridge. The longer route to New York seems to be vastly preferable, and, as it is now in progress, it must supersede the Pennsylvanian line. I saw some people thrashing buck wheat : they had dug a hollow in the field, about twenty feet in [73] diameter, and six or eight inches in depth. In this the grain was thrashed by the flail, and the straw thrown aside to rot in the field. The wheat is cleared of the chaff by two persons fanning it with a sheet, while a third lets it fall before the wind. Indian corn is separated from the husks or leaves that cover the ear, by the hands. In the evenings neighbours convene for this purpose. Apples are also pared for pres- ervation in a similar way. These are commonly convivial meetings, and are well attended by young people of both sexes. A respectable English family put ashore with a leaky boat, almost in the act of sinking. They had run foul of a log in a ripple. The craft, called family boats, are square arks, nine or ten feet wide, and varying in length as occasion may require. They are roofed all over, except a small portion of the fore part, where two persons row. At the back end, a person steers with an oar, protruded 44 It was Washington's favorite plan to unite the waters of the Potomac and Ohio, and in turn, those of the Ohio and Lake Erie, by means of canals. The Beaver River was always one of the possible links in this chain of inland commu- nication between the Great Lakes and tidewater. As Flint observes, the Erie Canal (completed in 1825) was the most feasible, and eventually the only suc- cessful, undertaking to join the sea and the lakes. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 97 through a hole, and a small fire-place is built of brick. Such boats are so formed as to carry all the necessaries of new settlers. The plough, and the body of the waggon, are frequently to be seen lying on the roof; and the wheels hung over the sides. The bottom is made of strong plank, not liable to be stove in, except where the water is in rapid motion ; and the whole fabric is exempt from the danger of upsetting, except in violent gales of wind. Family boats cost from thirty to fifty dollars at Pittsburg. A great proportion of the families to be seen, are from the northern parts of New York, and Pennsylvania, also from the state Vermont, and other parts. They have de- scended the Allegany, a river that I have not hitherto mentioned as a thoroughfare of travellers. 45 The gentleman mentioned in a former paragraph, is Brigadier General L k, 46 who [74] is at present a member of the Senate of the United States. I have had several accidental interviews with him, and find that he is acquainted with the late works of imagination and taste published in Edinburgh, down to the Second Series of the Tales of My Landlord. 47 October 28. Settlers continue to be much retarded in getting down the river. Head winds oblige them to put ashore sometimes for a whole day. Families for the east- ern parts of Ohio State, are proceeding by the road. The father may be seen driving the waggon; and the women 46 The Allegheny route was the common one for New England emigrants who had journeyed through New York on the old Genesee Road; it became of more importance after the Erie Canal was in operation. See Buttrick's Voyages, volume viii of our series. — Ed. 48 For a brief biography of General Lacock, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 57. — Ed. 47 "Tales of My Landlord," by Sir Walter Scott, include The Black Dwarf, Old Mortality, The Heart of Midlothian, etc. The two former were published in 1816 and the latter in 1818. — Ed. 98 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 and children bringing up two or three cows in the rear. They carry their provisions along with them, and wrap themselves in blankets, and sleep on the floors of taverns. The hostess here does not charge any thing for this sort of entertainment. Travelling by land at this season is, for various reasons, economical. Families by this means avoid delay and ex- pense at Pittsburg; they are not obliged to sell their wag- gons and horses at an under value there; but take them along, as a necessary stock for their farms; and they are not put to the expense of a boat, which would be ulti- mately sold for a mere trifle, or left to rot by the water side. Besides, their rate of travelling is now more speedy than by water. Those who go below Wheeling will have a farther advantage, as the distance from Pittsburg to that place is 38 miles shorter than by the river. The waggons and horses must also be of immediate use to those, who settle at a distance from navigable waters. It is impossible to state the distance to which horses and waggons should be carried from Pittsburg; this wholly depends on the state of the river, the quantity of goods to be transported, the price of freight, (if paying passage instead of purchasing a boat is contemplated,) the [75] price of a boat, and the certain loss on selling horses and waggons at Pittsburg. Strangers will do well to make strict inquiries, and the most careful calculations, of the expense of both modes of travelling, previous to the adoption of either of them. After examining the advantage of the different ways of travelling, it will be but an ordinary exercise of candour to state wherein I have erred myself. — I purchased a skiff, too small and too weak for my purpose, and I ought not to have undertaken the passage without taking some per- son along with me, who would have been continually on 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 99 the outlook for stones or logs under water, and who occa- sionally would have steered my bark. Being obliged to sit on a low seat with my back forward, I was most un- favourably placed for observing obstacles in the way, and, on approaching rapids, I was usually in the very draught of them, before I could discern the proper channel. The weather has of late been cold during the night, and the season is so far advanced that I cannot calculate on sleeping hereafter in an open boat. To enable me to put my baggage ashore every night, I have procured smaller boxes, to supersede the use of larger ones. Trav- ellers in this country ought not to adopt large boxes, which are the most liable to injury, from the jolting of waggons, and are comparatively unmanageable on every occasion. Eighty or a hundred pounds, are enough for each parcel. There is not the least appearance of a rise on the river. I have exchanged my pine skiff for a larger and a stronger oak one, and have determined on getting once more upon the water. During my stay here, I have had the satisfaction of living with a polite and respectable family, which has treated me with the utmost civility; [76] their integrity is beyond suspicion. — If I had entertained any doubt on that head, the very repacking of my baggage would at once have removed it. — My inventory is complete, not a single article is wanting. i oo Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 LETTER VII 48 Descend the Ohio from Beaver — Georgetown — Steuben- ville — Wellsburgh — Warren — Wheeling — Marietta — Muskingum river — Guyandat river — Letarts rap- ids — Kanhaway river — Point Pleasant — Galliopolis — Big Sandy river — Portsmouth — Occurrences and Remarks interspersed. Portsmouth, Ohio, iSth Nov. 181 8. On the 29th of October I again got afloat. — The weather clear and fine, but the current of the river in most parts so slow that the eye could scarcely discover its motion. — Passed the mouth of Big Beaver Creek, 29^ miles from Pittsburg. Stopped for the night at a tavern 42 1 miles from Pitts- burg. Opposite, on the Virginia shore of the river, stands Georgetown, a neat village, with a public ferry. — On little Beaver Creek are several grist and saw mills, a paper-mill, and several other machines. In the mouth of a creek, I observed that the surface of the water was tinged with the oil of naphtha. A young gentleman, from Virginia, had stopped in the tavern sick; the hostess and neighbours [77] were very attentive to the unfortunate stranger. October 30. At the distance of half a mile below Little Beaver Creek, the meridional line crosses the river, which separates Pennsylvania from Virginia on the south side of the river, and from the State of Ohio on the north side. 48 For notes on the following persons and places mentioned in this chapter, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series: Yellow Creek, note 93; Kanawha River, note 101. A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series: Wheeling, note 15; Marietta, note 16. F. A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series: Pennsylvania-Virginia boundary line, note 31; Gallipolis, note 34. Harris's Journal, volume iii of our series: Putnam, note 1. Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series: Georgetown, note 59; Steuben ville, note 67; Wellsburg, note 67; Grave Creek, note 78.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 101 Big Yellow Creek falls into the Ohio on the north side. A few miles up this creek there is a settlement of Scotch Highlanders. The soil occupied by them is said to be thin and poor. After pulling all day against contrary winds," which, in some straight parts of the river, raised waves that beat upon my boat with considerable force, I lodged at the Black Horse Tavern, on the Virginia side of the river, 63 miles from Pittsburg. The landlord told me that his charges were, in some measure, regulated by the appear- ance of his guests. — Where a family seem to be poor and clever, he does not charge any thing for their sleeping on the floor. (By clever, he meant honest, or of a good dis- position.) The hills that bound the narrow valley of the river are of sandstone and clay schist, with a bed of coal four or five feet thick. People acquainted with the country, say that the hills by the river, and by the creeks, are of a poorer soil than those inland, which are less steep. The process of inundation is probably the cause of the difference. There is a wider interval between the river hills here than in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg, and the bottoms are of course wider; the greater part of them being on the north side of the river. On the south side negroes are numerous. On the forenoon of the 31st a heavy rain fell, accom- panied with loud peals of thunder. — Reverberation [78] amongst the rocky hills and woods greatly augmented the sound. The margin of the river is lined with masses of sand- stone of enormous size. Others lie in the middle, with their rounded and scratched tops exposed above water. All these must have been detached from the river hills. Arrived at Steubenville, on the right bank of the Ohio. 102 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 This town stands on a second or higher bottom, exempt from the inundations so unpleasant on the first or lower plains. There are several hundred acres of this dry ground adjacent to the town, the largest tract of the kind that I have seen between the river and the hills. This place is named Steubenville, from Baron Steuben, in consideration of his philanthropic services rendered to America, during the revolutionary war. It contains up- wards of 2000 people; and it is regularly laid out, and the houses built of brick, wood, and a few are of stone, all covered with shingles. A newspaper is printed in the town; it contains also a woollen manufactory, a paper-mill, a grist-mill, and a small cotton-mill. These machines are wrought by steam. There are also two earthenware man- ufactories, and a brewery in the town, four preachers, six lawyers, five surgeons, twenty-seven shops, sixteen taverns, two banks, and a considerable number of artisans, neces- sary to the existence and increase of the place. The aspect of the river hills, by Steubenville, convey the idea that they are better land, and not so apt to be washed down by rains, as those in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg. — I have had no opportunity of inquiring into the cause. If I am not mistaken, Steubenville contains a greater proportion of orderly and religious people, [79] than some other American towns which I have seen. I entertain a very favourable opinion of several citizens, to whom I was introduced. November 3. After having left the town, and proceeded about a mile down the river, Mr. Hamilton the tavern- keeper, with whom I had lodged, came along the bank, on horseback, calling after me. I landed, and he deliv- ered to me an article, that I had neglected to pack up. Passed a young man in a small skiff; he had not ballast 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 103 enough for keeping head against the wind, which twirled his vessel round, and occasionally drifted him up the stream. He put ashore, as did also a family boat, that could not get onward. The wind having increased, I found it expedient to land at Wellsburgh, and wait till the gale abated. The waves were too large for such a small bark, and, in making the crossings necessary to keep in the proper channel, I was in danger of exposing the broadside too much to the weather. Wellsburgh, (formerly Charlestown,) stands on the Vir- ginia side of the river. It is a small town; I observed in it a court-house, a jail, a large store-house, and several taverns. The margin of the river is so shallow, that I could not push my skiff within twelve feet of the dry ground. There is no wharf or artificial landing place here, or at any of the towns that I have seen by the river. The floods sweep off almost every thing that is erected within the banks; even the roads that are scooped out of the beach are at times destroyed. Taverns (out of town) have only a rude foot-path cut in the bank, and many of them have not a trace formed by the hands of man. Afternoon. The wind calmed, and I proceeded down- ward. I came up with two young men in a [80] small skiff; one of them put off his coat to row, and the other paddled with an oar. Their intention was evidently to keep before me, but they were soon disappointed. When one small boat comes up with another, a sort of race is almost invariably the consequence. I have already acted a part in several of them, and have uniformly got fore- most. On one occasion I was opposed by three men in a smaller skiff than my own. I impute my success to the superior construction of my vessel, and to the extraor- 1 04 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 dinary breadth of my oars. It has occurred to me, that the oars in general use are much too narrow, and that by adopting broader ones, we would avail ourselves more of the vis inertia of the water, that of course is the sole cause of locomotion in a vessel propelled by rowing. On a dry bar, or island of gravel, I observed that none of the weeds were close by the present margin of the water, and that they were all on ground at least two feet higher than that line, an evident proof that the surface of the water must have been about two feet higher during the summer months. At that time it must have been a much easier task to descend the river. I landed in the evening at Warren, 49 a small town on the north bank. At this place there was a pedlar's boat, a small ark, which is removed from one town to another. Internally it is a shop, with counter, balances, &c. around the sides are shelves, with goods, in the usual form. 4ih. Last night the tavern had been in an uproar with a large party of gamblers. — Their room had no door, and that in which I slept had none, so that I heard much swearing and loud vociferation. About four o'clock one of the gentlemen retired from play, and laid himself down beside me. [81] A short time afterwards another entered the room, when the bar-keeper advised him to become a third of our party; this he declined. The bar-keeper next advised that he should take a part of the clothes from our bed, and an adjoining one, and with them make a bed for himself on the floor. — This he also declined; probably judging that the attempt would be opposed. This morning a contrary wind blew hard. Immedi- *• As early as 1786 a few pioneers had established themselves at the mouth of Indian Short Creek; but in 1805 the town was surveyed, a public sale of lots held, and the name Warren given to it. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 105 ately below the town there is a rapid current, not much ruffled by the breeze, but a long stretch of deeper water beyond it is rolling with waves. 50 Where the waves and the stream meet, white breakers are formed. Wishing to avoid these as much as possible, I took a young man of the neighbourhood with me, and availed myself of his local knowledge. Wheeling is a considerable town on the left bank of the river, ninety-six miles from Pittsburg. It is expected that the new road from Baltimore to this place will be com- pleted in the course of a year. 51 This being a national highway, on which no tolls are to be levied, and the shortest connection between a sea-port and the Ohio, a great in- crease of trade is consequently anticipated. 52 Hereafter, Baltimore will be the most proper landing place for Euro- peans who would settle in western America. At present the carriage of goods from Baltimore to Wheeling is cheaper than from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. From this it is evident, that the new route is already the shortest and the cheapest. About four and a half miles below Wheeling, I was sur- 80 It is interesting to note that, according to the Moravian missionary John Heckewelder, the Ohio River received its name from the white caps which often made canoe-travelling temporarily impossible. When it was covered with white caps the Indians would say ' ' Kitschi ohio-peekhaune, ' ' which means ' ' verily this is a deep white river. ' ' See ' ' Names which the Lenni Lenape or Delaware Indians . . . had given to Rivers, Streams, etc., ' ' in American Philosophical Society Transactions, new series, iv, pp. 369, 370. The commonly accepted derivation, that given by La Salle and the early French explorers, is that "Ohio" is an Iroquois word, meaning "beautiful river." — Ed. 81 The Cumberland National Road was completed to the Ohio (Wheeling, West Virginia) in this year (1818). — Ed. 83 Being a national highway no tolls were originally levied on the Cumber- land Road; this being, however, a most logical method of raising money for the necessary repairs, the road was ceded to the states through which it ran (1830- 35), and the latter erected toll-gates and levied tolls. — Ed 1 06 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 prised at hearing the river making a great noise, The Pitts- burg navigator not giving any notice of a rapid, and as a thick fog prevented me from seeing the cause, I went on shore to reconnoitre. Before reaching the place from whence [82] the noise proceeded, a boy informed me that a great fresh (flood) in M'Mahon's Creek, happened last summer, at a time when the Ohio was low, and that it had carried earth and trees from the bottom land, together with a house and a family, into the river. The devasta- tion produced by this torrent is truly astonishing. It has cut a great chasm through the bottom land, which is about twenty-five feet high, and scooped it out many feet lower than the surface of the Ohio. A large bar, that in some measure dams the river, has large trees intermixed with it; their roots and branches standing above the water. This is the obstacle and cause that occasion the noisy ripple. The last tavern that we passed here, had no sign-board. In consequence of which I supposed it to be a private house, and, after sailing several miles down the river, was obliged to put ashore, when nearly dusk, at a farm-house about nine miles below Wheeling. November 5. The family with whom I lodged last night, seem to be industrious and well disposed. Two daughters were busily engaged in tailor work for the males. This, they said, is a common practice in the country. They also told me of a young lady of the neighbourhood, who had just gone to the house of her bridegroom, to make his marriage suit. As this occurrence was told with some degree of disapprobation, it is not to be viewed as in uni- son with the manners of the people. Twelve miles and a half below Wheeling, and a quarter of a mile from the river, on the left-hand side, there is a 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 107 remarkable mound of earth, called the Big Grave. This hill is about sixty-seven feet high, a hundred and eighty feet broad at the base, and about twenty-two feet broad at the top, which is a little hollow. Some have supposed that the earth [83] has been brought from a distance; but, as something similar to a ditch is to be seen on one side of it, and as the neighbouring surface is uneven, there can be no strong reason to warrant the conclusion. Several fallen trees on the sides, (for it is covered with a strong growth of timber,) have exposed the component earth, which is a fine vegetable soil. It is not known that the present Indian people perform such works, nor is it be- lieved that their traditions inculcate veneration towards these monuments; hence their origin is perfectly obscure. On the right-hand side of the river, and about four miles below Grave Creek, a bed of coal is wrought. It lies in a horizontal position, and under high-water mark. Boats take in lading close by the mouth of the mine. Lodged at a tavern thirty-four miles from Wheeling, after rowing against head-winds, which rendered the work somewhat fatiguing. In the evening a number of young men came in from a husking of Indian corn in the neigh- bourhood; they commenced drinking and swearing, all bawling out and talking at once. Such noisy gabbling I never before heard. November 6. To-day I got into a long stretch of the river, where it is straight for seventeen miles. This part is called the Long Reach. 53 The wind blew upward, and opposed a rolling surface to my progress. The labour was hard, but the headway very small; family boats have been obliged to land. I saw some young men in a canoe M See list of Americanisms, post, pp. 289-290; also Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 96. — Ed. 108 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 who had just killed a deer in the act of crossing the river. Lodged'at a tavern about half way down the long Reach. Two old women, (sisters,) were there, one was in quest of her husband, and the other of her daughter. The uncle is forty-five years of age, and the niece sixteen. Affinity and disparity of [84] age united, have not been sufficient to prevent the elopement. From Wheeling to near this place, coal, limestone, and sandstone are abundant. In my passage, I have seen twenty-five islands. Some of them are of considerable size; the second below Pitts- burg is six miles long. Islands being covered with timber, varying in size from the shortest willows by the water's edge, to tall trees in the centre, have a beautiful appear- ance when viewed from the river either above or below them. I have descended twenty-two ripples. In a few of these, the stranger is apt to feel a considerable anxiety from being swept hastily along amongst logs, with their tops above water, and over stones and logs sunk beneath its surface. November 7. The inconvenience and expense that attend putting my baggage ashore every night, and on board every morning, are great. Tavern-keepers , servants are usually of their own families. Freemen in early life, they, in many cases, disregard the parental command, however reasonable. If I mistake not, the assistance which I paid dearly for, was sometimes procured by my own address rather than a sense of duty on their part. Although I am now a good waterman, and outsail every vessel I see, I resolved to adopt a more convenient, though less expeditious way of travelling. I applied to the master of a large keel boat, on its way 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 109 for Portsmouth, at the mouth of great Sciota river, to be taken on board. He refused to take me as a passenger, but was willing to accept of me on condition that I would row in the place of a man who was about to leave him. I agreed to work; for in my skiff I wrought very hard. I changed my place, but did not improve my condition. [85] Keel boats are large shallow vessels, varying from thirty to seventy tons burden. They are built on a keel with ribs, and covered with plank, as ships are. They are very flat below, and draw only about two feet of water. The gunwales are about a foot above water. Something like a large box is raised over the boat, which serves for a cover, leaving a narrow footpath on the outside all around. Four or six men row near the prow, and a steersman be- hind plies a long oar, which serves for a rudder. November 8. (Sunday.) The provisions of this and another boat in company were nearly exhausted, and a supply was expected at Marietta. Sailing appeared to be a work of necessity; but, independent of the exigency, the boats would probably have moved on. Sailing on the Sabbath is as common here as at sea. A boatman com- menced a song, and was interrupted by a Scots rustic. The American alleged that he was in a "land of liberty" and that no one had a right to interfere. The other affirmed that it was against law, and threatened to pre- vent the violation in the most summary way. The boat- man, perceiving that he was to be assailed by a stronger man than himself, gave up the contest. Every one present seemed well pleased with this termination of the affair. November 9. Marietta is beautifully situated on a fine green bottom, immediately above the mouth of the Great Muskingum river. There are many good brick and frame houses in the town ; a church, and an academy, which are 1 1 o Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 both called fine buildings. The ferry-boat that crosses the Muskingum is attached by wheels to a strong rope stretched across the river, to which the boat is moored obliquely, so that it is forced across by the [86] action of the stream. Marietta is subject to inundations. I ob- served high water mark on the plaster of a room in the tavern, about four and a half feet above the floor. The first settlement formed by the United States in the territory north-west of the Ohio, was effected by General Putnam, and forty-six other persons, on the 7th of April, 1788, on the ground where Marietta now stands. 10. This day we met a family boat sailing up the river. We convinced them of their mistake, which happened in the following way. The people went under the roof to avoid a shower, and during their stay, the vessel turned round. They came out, and rowed till they had retro- graded about two miles. Our way of passing the night was simple. We put ashore, and tied the boat to a log or stake; took in fire- wood, which was plentiful all along the banks; made a fire for cooking, in a large box filled with earth, placed on the roof, and slept under the cover in our clothes, wrapped in a blanket. In the morning we lost no time in dressing, having only to loosen our cable, and get under weigh. In times of high water, sailing by night is considered safe and agreeable, very little rowing being necessary. On the nth we went down Letart's rapids, a very violent run. 54 The boat rushed through with great ve- locity. There is a floating grist and saw mill here, which I visited. The whole is buoyant on a large flat shallow M Letart's Rapids, at a bend in the Ohio about twenty-five miles above Galli- polis, are but a slight hindrance to navigation. See Thwaites, On the Storied Ohio, pp. 113-117, for a recent description. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 1 1 1 vessel, moored in the current. The effective head of water is about twenty inches high. The water-wheel is twelve feet in diameter, and eighteen feet broad. The millstone is about thirty-eight inches in diameter, and [87] makes a hundred and twenty revolutions in the minute. We came up with a family boat, the people in which had killed a deer. These animals often cross the river of their own accord; and frequently to elude the pursuit of dogs. The days are warm, reminding me of the month of August in Scotland ; the mornings and evenings are cool. The ranges of hills that bound the view on both sides of the river are composed of horizontal strata of the coal field formation; a bed of this mineral lies at the height of fifty or sixty feet above the level of the water. A large mass of sandstone is above the coal. This may be observed for many miles along the banks. The ragged, and dented edges of the strata, have led some to suppose that the river never acted on them; but the very contrary must have been the case; for had the cliffs now to be seen been exposed to the weather ever since the commencement of the present order, their asperities, and sharp edges had been rounded off, and smoothed, as in the case of rocks on hill tops. The true explanation seems to be, that the river has undermined the rocks, brought them down, and ground them to sand, by its powerful attrition. The undermining process has no doubt been facilitated by the softer subjacent strata, as clay-schist, and coal. The powerful operation of the grinding process is strongly attested by the grooved surfaces, and the figure of the large blocks in the bed of the stream. These are uniformly rounded away on the end that lies farthest up the river; H2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 whereas, the end facing down the river is comparatively flat, and usually bounded by sharp edges. [88] November 13. Passed the mouth of Kanha- way river. Here stands a small town called Point Pleas- ant. The name is appropriate, and descriptive of the site. From the springs of Kanhaway river, a great supply of salt is procured for the western country. We landed at Galliopolis in Ohio State. The town stands on a high bank above the reach of the river. The name was given by a colony of a hundred French families, which settled here twenty-five years ago. They purchased from a Company, whose original charter stipulated, that the tract should be inhabited by a certain number of set- tlers, within a specified period of time. The condition was not fulfilled ; the land reverted to the government, and the colony was dispossessed of its new establishment. 14. The wind was violent, obliging us to remain on shore for three hours. We moved again, and stopped after dark, about a mile above the mouth of Big Guyandat river, where some ripples commence. 15. {Sunday.) A strong contrary wind blew. No boat could move downward. But we saw several keel boats carrying sail, that enabled them to stem the ripples without manual labour. It is the wind, and not the day, that is reverenced here. On the morning of the 16th, we moved downward. We saw a man fire a shot at a flock of wild turkeys. These fowl were so far from being coy, that they flew only a little way, and alighted again, on the trees. Passed Big Sandy river, which comes in on the left hand side, and forms part of the boundary line between Vir- ginia and Kentucky. In the evening we stopped below Fergusson's Bar, having sailed [89] thirty-one miles in the 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 1 1 3 course of the day, — a great space, considering the lowness of the water. On the 17th, we arrived at Portsmouth, a well built town. It has a county court house, a newspaper office, a woollen manufactory, a number of stores, (shops,) and several good taverns. Having resolved on travelling a little way inland from the river, I immediately put my baggage on board a boat for Limestone, in Kentucky, addressed to a commission merchant there. Limestone is fifty-one miles from this place, and four hundred and forty- one miles from Pittsburg, by the river. It gives me much pleasure to be relieved from the com- pany of boatmen. I have seen nothing in human form so profligate as they are. Accomplished in depravity, their habits and education seem to comprehend every vice. They make few pretensions to moral character; and their swearing is excessive, and perfectly disgusting. Although earning good wages, they are in the most abject poverty; many of them being without any thing like clean or com- fortable clothing. I have seen several whose trousers formed the whole of their wardrobe, and whose bodies were scorched to a brown colour by the rays of the sun. They are extremely addicted to drinking. Indeed I have fre- quently seen them borrowing of one another a few cents to quench their insatiable thirst, and in several instances refusing to repay them. The Scotsman recently alluded to missed a knife. On his accusing them of the theft, a de- graded wretch offered to buy the fork. My next letter will contain the particulars of a journey in the States of Ohio and Kentucky. 114 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 [90] LETTER VIII Leave Portsmouth — Digression on economical Travel- ling — Salt - springs — Piketon — Chillicothe — Pro- gress of a Scotch Family — Game — Forest Trees and Shrubs — Rolled pieces of Primitive Rocks dispersed over a Country of the Secondary Formation — Agricul- tural Implements — Antiquities — Bainbridge — Mid- dletown — Organic Remains — Town of Limestone — Washington — Maye Lick — Licking River — Millers- burg — Paris — Notice of the Missouri and Illinois Countries — Paper Currency — Cut Coin — Remarks interspersed. Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 29, 1818. On the 18th current I left Portsmouth, on the north bank of the Ohio, for Chillicothe, which is situated on the Great Scioto river, forty-five miles from Portsmouth by land, and about seventy by following the meanders of the Scioto. The Scotsman twice alluded to in my last letter, was also bound for Chillicothe, and we set out together. He gave me the following account of his economy in travelling. The owner of the boat which we had just left, engaged him to work his passage from Pittsburg to Portsmouth without wages, except having his trunk carried to the latter place, artfully telling, that the passage would be completed in nine days. It turned out that twenty-one days elapsed, before the boat reached her destination. Had he, in the first place, hired himself as a boatman, he might have got seventy-five cents per day, and might have had his trunk carried for a dollar; and thus a profit of fourteen dollars and [91] seventy-five cents would have been made. On his journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, he managed better. He travelled along with the waggon that carried his trunk; the waggon also carrying his provisions. In this way he was never obliged to enter a tavern except at 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 1 1 5 night, when he slept in his own bed-clothes. His bed was a low one, but he had always the satisfaction of knowing that it was clean, and that he was exempted from having a bed-fellow intruded upon him. It is true that by travelling alone, he might have reached Pittsburg about a week sooner; but he would have arrived there without clean clothes, and incurred the payment of a week's board, while waiting the arrival of his trunk. Having made a digression on economical travelling, I am led to make some further remarks on it. The subject is highly interesting to emigrants whose funds are scanty, as every dollar parted with may be, in effect, giving up half an acre of uncultivated land. A steerage passenger pays only about half the freight that is charged for a pas- sage in the cabin of a ship; and, when he lays in his own provisions, he has it in his power to be nearly as comfort- able as a sea voyage can permit. In the American port, the cabin passenger is sometimes subjected to delay in entering his baggage at the custom-house, and getting the taxable part valued, whereas the steerage passenger has his goods entered by the captain, and is allowed to pro- ceed on his journey without loss of time. Baltimore being the most convenient landing place for Europeans who intend to settle in the western country, those who arrive at New York, Boston, or other northern ports, will have a saving by re-shipping for the Chesapeake. Stran- gers ought to be careful in ascertaining what sloop is to sail first. By putting goods aboard of a wrong vessel, a delay for a [92] week or so may be occasioned. Having sent my own baggage round the Capes, from New York to Philadelphia, I had an opportunity of observing that sev- eral skippers, at the same time, affirmed, that his own vessel would sail first. Liverpool is the principal resort, 1 1 6 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 in Britain, of ships for Baltimore. I conceive that it is un- important to the emigrant, whether he reaches the latter place in an American coasting vessel, or by sailing an equal distance to Liverpool, along the coast of Britain. We stopped at a tavern, four miles from Portsmouth, and had breakfast. The landlord told us, that bears and wolves are still numerous in the uncleared hills; that they devour many hogs and sheep; and that he heard wolves howling within a few yards of his house, on the preceding night. His sheep had run off, and he did not know in which direction to search for them. About nine miles from Portsmouth, the saline nature of a spring is indicated by the ground being much trodden by the feet of cattle. The water is slightly brackish, and is not worth the expense of evaporation. Salt is manu- factured, in considerable quantity, a few miles to the eastward. Salt springs are called licks, from cattle and deer resorting to them to drink of the water, or to lick the con- crete salt deposited on the rocks or stones, by the evapora- tion of the atmosphere. Riflemen also resort to the licks, in the night, to shoot the deer, which are so numerous in this neighbourhood, that they are sold at a dollar each. The lower and richer lands are all entered, (appro- priated by individuals,) but the higher and poorer, a con- siderable portion of which is too steep for the plough, remains as public property in the market. The time for cultivating them is not yet come. I must remark that the hilly, or what is here called [93] broken land, has many fertile spots, and that the comparative salubrity of such parts of the country forms a very strong recommenda- tion to them. Coal and limestone are not known within eight or nine miles of this part of Scioto river. 1818-1820] Flint } s Letters from America 117 We lodged at Piketon, 55 the head town of the new county Pike, so called in memory of General Pike, who, to the character of the enterprizing explorer of Mexico, added that of the brave soldier. Three years ago there were five houses here, now there are about a hundred. November 19. We could not procure a breakfast at a tavern where we called, because the family had a sick child. At the next tavern, breakfast was prepared for some labourers on the farm; but there was not enough of bread baked, to admit of our taking breakfast along with them. We were told that if we chose to wait for two hours, we might eat. — We went onward. After travelling several miles, we arrived at a third tavern; here, too, the bread was not prepared; but the people were obliging, and made it ready for us in a short time. The landlord was a farmer. He told us that Indian corn sells at twenty-five cents (is. ij^d. English) per bushel, and that he could procure twenty thousand bushels of it within three miles of his house. This appeared to be somewhat surprising, on considering that the cleared grounds form only small detached parcels, when compared with the intervening woods. — Wheat sells at seventy-five cents (3s. 4j^d. English) per bushel. This sort of crop is, at present, more profitable than Indian corn, as in most cases it yields more than a third part by measure; it does not require to be cleared of weeds; and is more easily carried to market. The predominance of crops of [94] Indian corn is occasioned by the ease with which it is disposed of in feeding hogs and other stock, 66 Piketown, first settled about 1796 by pioneers from Pennsylvania and Virginia, and laid out about 1814, is on the Scioto River sixty-four miles south of Columbus, and about thirty miles from the Ohio. — Ed. 1 1 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 and, perhaps, in some degree, by prejudice. The bot- toms are wide, and their soil rich. They are often inun- dated by the Scioto and its numerous branches, the water leaving great quantities of logs, and other vegetable matter, to be decomposed on the surface of the ground. These facts convince us that the situation is not healthy, not- withstanding the affirmations we heard to the contrary; and we were the more fully persuaded of this, as we saw a young man pale and meagre, in consequence of an attack of the ague. We came to a saw-mill near Paint Creek. 58 A woman asked us how we proposed to get across the run. She told us that there was neither bridge nor boat; and that the water would reach up to our middle. She told us further, that travellers commonly hire a creature (a horse) at her house. We ordered one, and her husband followed us with it. At the Creek, we discovered that the water was shallow. Some of our party, (now increased to five,) indignant at the hoax, waded the stream. The water did not reach to the knee. Chillicothe, 67 (formerly the seat of government, in the State of Ohio, now transferred to Columbus,) is situated on an extensive high plain, in a great bend of the Scioto, which here varies from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards in breadth. The town has a court-house, an academy, two places of worship, two printing offices, that publish a weekly newspaper each, a woollen manufactory, a cotton manufactory, a grist-mill wrought by steam, a brewery, a tannery, a variety of merchants' shops, several taverns, and three banks. One of the last establish- 16 Paint Creek, a stream about sixty miles long, empties into the Scioto from the west, five miles below Chillicothe. — Ed. 87 For a brief description of Chillicothe, see F. A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series, note 35. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 119 ments has its door [95] shut. There is a good wooden bridge across the river, near the town. November 20. I crossed Paint Creek, by the road toward Limestone. 58 The bottoms are rich, but the greater part of them uncleared. The cattle of this neigh- bourhood are better than those I have seen by the river Ohio, and in the western parts of Pennsylvania. It is not here, however, that the fine droves formerly noticed are reared. These must have come from the more northerly part of the State, where the grass on the prairies (lands without timber) is said to be abundant. All accounts that I have heard of these prairies, say, that they are wet, and unfavourable to health. The ease with which settle- ments are formed on them, and the facility for rearing cattle, are, however, attracting many settlers. Visited a Scotch family about thirteen miles from Chil- licothe. They settled here twelve years ago. Their farm consists of three hundred acres of first and second rate land ; of which seventy acres are cleared and fenced. They have met with two misfortunes; either of which, they think, would have finally arrested their progress in Scot- land. They bought a bad title to their land; it being part of an old military grant, 59 and omitted to see it traced back to the government. In addition to this, their house, with *■ Flint travelled from Chillicothe to Limestone over Zane's Trace. For an account of this road, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 135. — Ed. M The Virginia Military District, reserved by that state when she ceded her possessions north of the Ohio River to the United States Government, was a triangular tract, with the Ohio River shore between Little Miami and Scioto rivers as its base, and the apex at the sources of the Huron River. Large por- tions were given as bounty lands to Virginia soldiers of the Revolution; the re- mainder was ceded to the Federal Government in 1852. In 1871 the govern- ment retroceded this district to the state of Ohio, which, in turn, donated it to Ohio State University. See Hinsdale, Old Northwest (New York, 1888), p. 292. — Ed. 1 20 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 most of their moveables, was burnt. They have now sur- mounted these losses; and are in better circumstances than at any former period. It is astonishing to see how much this family have adopted the manners and customs of the Americans. The father, who is seventy-five years of age, has almost entirely laid aside the peculiarities of his native provincial dialect. Nothing but the broad pronunciation of the vowel A remains. The son [96] has acquired the dialect of the country perfectly; and has adopted the American modes of farming; is a good axe- man, and is in every respect identified with the people. During the late war, he was out on a campaign, on the frontier of Canada. This absence must have been extremely painful to the father, who lost an amiable son in the fight with the Indians, at Tippacanoe, in 181 1. 60 Religious and patriotic views seem to have supported this worthy old man under every discouragement. November 21. I made an excursion into the woods. A few deer and wild turkeys remain. Squirrels are very numerous. They are of the grey and black varieties: also of the striped or ground species. The two former are much larger than the English squirrel, and are ate in America. Some people esteem them as equal to chickens. Quails are abundant: they are smaller than partridges, and are so tame that the report of a gun, and the destruc- tion of a part of the covey, do not always make them take flight. It is a common practice to drive whole families of them into nets. Rabbits are not plentiful; they lodge in the hollows of fallen trees; and are not understood to bur- row in the ground. The only fox that I have seen, was of a small size, and of a light grey colour. It does not 00 For a brief account of the battle of Tippecanoe, see Evans's Tour, volume viii of our series, note 131. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 121 require a thick population to exterminate bears, deer, and turkeys. The beaver is destroyed by the first hunters who invade the forests; and the buffalo retreats into more remote solitudes, almost on the first approach of white men. The woods are principally composed of Quercus, (Alba,) White Oak; (Tinctoria,) Black Oak; (Coccinea,) Red Oak; (Primus accuminata,) Chesnut Oak; Platanus, (Occidentalism Sycamore; Fagus, (Ferruginea,) Beech; Acer, (Saccharinum,) {97] Maple, (sugar tree;) Fraxinus, (Americana,) Ash; Juglans, (Nigra,) Walnut, (black;) (Alba ovata,) Hickory; Laurus, (Sassafras,) Sassajras; Comus (Florida,) Dogwood; Fagus, (Castanea,) Chesnut; Liriodendron, (Tulipefera,) Poplar; Ulmus, (Americana,) Slippery Elm; (Mollifolia,) White Elm; Vitus, (Labrusea,) Fall Grape; (Serotina,) Winter Grape. Amongst the shrubs, or underwood, the following may be noticed as prevalent: Rhus, (Glabrum,) Sumach; Laurus, (Benzoin,) Spice- wood; Rubus, (Fructicosus,) Blackberry; (Hispidus,) Run- ning do.; Annona, (Glabra,) Papaw. The prevalent strata are of slate clay, bituminous shale, and sandstone. Coal is not known, and probably has not been sought after. Rolled pieces of the latter mineral, and of granite, gneiss, quartz, and flint slate, are mixed with the sandy gravel of the streams. Dr. Drake" has pointed out a situation in this State, where large detached * Dr. Daniel Drake, a native of Plainfield, New Jersey, whose boyhood was spent in Kentucky, came to Cincinnati in 1800 to study medicine. Graduating from the University of Pennsylvania in 181 6, he interested himself in establish- ing the Ohio Medical College, at Cincinnati, and became its first president. From that time until his death in 1852, he was connected with some medical college, either in Ohio or Kentucky. In addition to his writings on medical subjects, he published (1815) the book several times mentioned by Flint, Pic- tures 0} Cincinnati and the Miami Country. — Ed. 122 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 masses of granite lie over strata of secondary limestone; and has conjectured that they have been brought from the primitive country north of the lakes, by the agency of water passing from north to south. This hypothesis is countenanced by the vast quantities of alluvial soil which lie far above the level of the present river, and by the almost total absence of primitive rocks, between the east- ern side of the Allegany ridge, and the sources of the Missouri. The only exception known is the tract between Lakes Ontario and Champlain, — a field so narrow that we cannot view it as the probable source of fragments profusely scattered over the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Kentucky. In this part of Ohio State, first and second rate lands sell at four or five dollars per acre. The richest ground is in bottoms: the hilly has many [98] parts not accessi- ble to the plough. Buildings are most commonly erected on rising grounds. Such situations are believed to be most salubrious, and abound most in good springs. Farming establishments are small. Most cultivators do every thing for themselves, even to the fabrication of their agricultural implements. Few hire others perma- nently, it being difficult and expensive to keep labourers for any great length of time. They are not servants, all are hired hands: Females are averse to dairy, or menial employments. The daughters of the most numerous families continue with their parents. There is only one way of removing them. This disposition is said to pre- vail over almost the whole of the United States. A man- ufacturer at Philadelphia told me, that he had no difficulty in finding females to be employed in his work-shop; but a girl for house-work he could not procure for less than twice the manufacturing wages. Some of the children of 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 123 the more necessitous families are bound out to labour for other people. The Scotch family, recently mentioned, have a boy and a girl living with them in this way. The indenture of the boy expires when he is twenty-one years of age; that of the girl at eighteen. They are clothed and educated at the expense of the employer. The boy, at the expiry of his contract, is to have a horse and saddle, of value at least 100 dollars; and the girl at the end of her engagement, is to have a bedding of clothes. It is said, that a law of the State of Ohio, forbids females to live in the houses of unmarried men. The utensils used in agriculture are not numerous. The plough is short, clumsy, and not calculated to make either deep or neat furrows. The harrow is triangular; and is yoked with one of its angles forward, that it may be less apt to take hold [99] of the stumps of trees in the way. Light articles are carried on horseback, heavy ones by a coarse sledge, by a cart, or by a waggon. The smaller implements are the axe, the pick-axe, and the cradle-scythe; by far the most commendable of back wood apparatus. The figure [page 125] is descriptive of the cradle scythe. AEGB is the shaft. In working, it is held by the left hand with the thumb upward, near A; while the right hand holds the cross handle at H. BD is a post, making an angle of about 78 degrees with the straight line AB. Into this post the five wooden ribs, or fingers, MN, OP, QR, ST, and UV, are fixed. These are round pieces of tough wood, of a curvature resembling that of the back of the blade, as nearly as possible. They are upwards of half an inch in diameter; and are pointed at the extremities MOQSU. FG is another post, fixed in the shaft, parallel to BD, and about seven inches distant from it. ED is a i 24 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 thin piece of wood, let into the shaft at E, for retaining the posts BD, FG, in their positions. IK is a small round post that passes through the fingers at the distance of ten inches from the post BD. This small post passes through broad parts of the fingers, which are left so for the sake of strength, and its lower ends stands on the blade at K. The blade is such as is used in cutting hay; but the point is allowed to stand about nine inches farther out from the handle than the grass scythe. At L is a small iron bolt, rivetted into the blade, near its back; the top of this bolt passes through the lower finger, and is furnished with a hand-screw, which holds the finger down, so that its point shall remain within about half an inch of the blade. The points of the fingers MOQSU are in a straight line, but recline backward, so that the upper finger is about five inches shorter than the under one. Between [100] the posts IK, and FG, are five small connecting stays of iron. Figure 2 is a separate plan of one of the iron stays, shew- ing the manner in which it is fixed to the upright bars or posts. AB is a part of the finger; C the hole through which the small post (IK of the former figure) passes; and D is the post FG of the former figure. EF is the iron stay; it is about one-sixth of an inch in diameter; and it is thin and crooked near the end E, where it is fastened to the finger by two small nails. From G to F the stay is a small screw. At K, is a female hand-screw that bears against D. At H, is a nut, also bearing against the post D. By this screw the finger is firmly kept in its proper place. The fingers are five inches apart, measuring from the centre of the one to that of the other. The shaft of the scythe is five feet long, and the whole of the parts are as light as is consistent with strength. [101] November 22. About a mile distant from the 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America J 25 house where I lodged, the woods were on fire. It was supposed that the conflagration had been begun by some mischievous person, who had kindled the dry leaves, now strewed over the ground. In the evening, the glare of light extending along a ridge for a mile and a half, was astonishingly grand. Large decayed trees were con- verted into luminous columns of fire; when these fell the crashing noise was heard within doors. Fires in the woods usually excite alarm in their neighbourhood. People watch them by night, their rail fences and wooden habi- tations being in danger. Some parts of this neighbourhood were purchased twelve or fourteen years ago. Then proximity to Chillicothe was little regarded. The increased population and trade of the town has now made it the market of almost every dis- 126 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 posable product. The lands near that place are conse- quently much increased in value, and town lots sell at high prices. November 23. I again resumed my way for Limestone. By the road side are many conical mounds of earth, called Indian graves. About a mile east of Bainbridge is a large camp. 62 The ditch is in every part visible. One side is inclosed by a bend of Paint Creek, where the opposite bank forms high and strong ground. I conjectured that the fort contained nearly one hundred acres. It is not understood that the aborigines have constructed any such works since Europeans became acquainted with them. It is therefore a natural inference, that the country must have been antecedently inhabited by a more civilized and more powerful people. From Bainbridge to Middletown the land is hilly; a small portion of it is cleared, and it is much less [102] fer- tile than the grounds by the river Scioto, and Paint Creek. November 24. The ground west of Middletown is of clay, with a mixture of siliceous particles, and the oxide of iron. Wheat is the most prevalent crop. The health enjoyed on these high lands, is an ample compensation for the lack of a few bushels. Wheat sells at a dollar per bushel; Indian corn at thirty-three one-third cents; beef and pork at four cents a-pound; labourer's wages, fifty cents; joiners, a dollar, with provisions. 2$th. At ten miles from Limestone, the soil is good, but broken with irregularities of surface. There was a little frost in the morning, but the forenoon was warm. I observed several insects of the genus Vanessa, (painted w The remains of the mound-building Indians on Paint Creek, near Bain- bridge, are among "the largest works in the Scioto valley." See Fowke, Archaological History of Ohio (Columbus, 1902), p. 206; see also Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 76. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America i 27 butterflies,) flying about in full vigour. The autumn is said to be fine, almost beyond former example. Near the river Ohio the soil is light, but much broken on the surface by funnel-shaped hollows, not unlike those where the sides of coal-pits have fallen in. These inverted cones are evidently excavated by the infiltration of water, and indicate that the strata abounds with large fissures or caverns. In travelling over the last forty miles, limestone is the only stratified mineral that I have seen. It lies in a posi- tion nearly horizontal, and is literally conglomerated with organic remains. Amongst these, the most remarkable is a species of terebratula, which is very abundant, and varies from the size of a walnut to that of a pin's head. In addition to the concentric striated character, so frequent amongst bivalve shells, it has large radiated grooves; the grooves on one valve opposite to ridges on the other. The superior margin is, of course, a zig-zag line, resembling the base of [103] polyhedral crystals, where the sides of one pyramid are set on the angles of another. For some days past I have found the expense of travel- ling to be uniformly three shillings and elevenpence far- thing per day. Limestone, sometimes called Maysville, 88 is a consider- able landing place on the Kentucky side of the river Ohio. The houses stand above the level of the highest floods. There is a rope-walk, a glass-house, several stores and taverns, and a bank, in the town. On the 26th, I left Limestone by the road for Lexing- ton, w hich is sixty-four miles distant. The roads, hitherto 83 For notes on the following places, see A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series: Limestone, note 23; Paris, note 29. F. A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series: Washington, note 37; May's Lick, note 38; Millersburg, note 38. Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series: Blue Licks, note 117. — Ed. 128 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 scorched by drought, were in a few minutes rendered wet and muddy by a heavy shower of rain. The roads in this western country are of the natural soil. The high grounds every where seen from the river, are called the river hills; they are in reality banks, the ground inland of them being high. To the south of Limestone it is a rich table land, diversified by gentle slopes and moderate eminences. At four miles from Limestone is Washington, the seat of justice in Mason County. The town is laid out on a large plan, but is not thriving. May's Lick is a small village, twelve miles from Lime- stone. A rich soil, and a fine undulated surface, unite in forming a neighbourhood truly delightful. The most florid descriptions of Kentucky have never conveyed to my mind an idea of a country naturally finer than this. I lodged at a tavern twenty miles from Limestone. Before reaching that place the night became dark and the rain heavy. As the tops of the trees overhung the road, I had no other indication than the miry feel of the track, to prevent me from wandering into the woods. [104] November 27. Crossed the river Licking in a boat, at a small town called Blue Licks, from the springs in its neighbourhood, from which great quantities of salt were formerly procured. The adjoining timber is ex- hausted, and the salt-works are abandoned. After coming to a flooded creek, where there was neither bridge nor boat, I waited a few minutes for the mail coach. The road is in several parts no other than the rocky bed of the stream. It also crosses the same creek four or five times. After riding a few miles, I left the coach. There is no great degree of comfort in travelling by this vehicle; stowed full of people, baggage, and letter 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 129 bags; the jolting over stones, and through miry holes, is excessively disagreeable: and the traveller's head is some- times knocked against the roof with much violence. A large piece of leather is let down over each side, to keep out the mud thrown up by the wheels. The front was the only opening, but as the driver and two other persons occupied it, those behind them were almost in total dark- ness. A peep at the country was not to be obtained. Millersburg is a very small town, with several large grist-mills and a bank. To-day I have seen a number of young women on horseback, with packages of wool, going to, or returning from, the carding machine. At some of the houses the loom stands under a small porch by the door. Although Miss does not wear the produce of her own hands, it is pleasant to see such abundant evidence of family manu- facture. I lodged at Paris, the head town of Bourbon county. A cotton-mill, and some grist-mills, are the manufactories of the place. The population is considerable. Several of the taverns are large, and, like many of the others in the western country, [105] have bells on the house-tops, which are rung at meals. A traveller has just returned from attending the sales of public lands in the Missouri country. — They are exposed by auction, in quarter sections of 160 acres each. A considerable part of them sold at from three to six dollars per acre. Lots, not sold at auction, may be sub- sequently bought at the land-office for two dollars per acre, on paying half a dollar in ready money, and the remainder within five years. Land dealers are very vigilant in securing for themselves great quantities of the best land. It is not uncommon for reconnoitring parties 130 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 of them to lodge in the woods for a whole week. By such means much of the best land, mill-seats, and other local advantages, are withdrawn from the market at the first public sales. This gentleman describes the Missouri country as one possessing a fine climate, and containing many extensive prairies of a rich soil, but destitute of timber and stone. The most advantageous purchases are considered to be those on the edges of prairies, with a part of the open land, and a part of the woods. Many of the settlers that I have seen by the river, and else- where, were on their way for the Missouri territory. The Illinois country, according to the account given by this traveller, is a very unhealthy one. He travelled twenty days in that State, and on his return home, found that many of the people were afflicted with bilious fevers and agues. He affirmed that he had seen more sick people during these twenty days than during the whole of his preceding life in Kentucky. Other reports corroborate his statement, so that there can be no doubt that the autumn has been a sickly one in that low country. [106] The best taverns in town charge higher than those in the country, where accommodation is inferior. At Paris I paid 62*^ cents (2s. 9^d. English) for supper and lodgings. In this western country there is a great diversity of paper money. 64 Small bills are in circulation of a half, a fourth, an eighth, and even a sixteenth part of a dollar. These small rags are not current at a great distance from •* The supply of specie in the Western country had always been inadequate. Until the numerous state banks began to flood the country with paper money, about the second decade of the century, barter was regularly employed. Flint was in the West when the financial stringency that followed the War of 1812-15 was beginning to be felt in that region, and the reaction against the worth- less state banks had set in. See post; also McMaster, History of the United States, iv, pp. 484-487.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 131 the places of their nativity. A considerable proportion of the little specie to be seen is of what is called cut money. — Dollars cut into two, four, eight, or sixteen pieces. This practice prevents such money from being received in banks, or sent out of the country in the character of coin, and would be highly commendable were it not for the frauds committed by those who clip the pieces in reserving a part of the metal for themselves. November 28. To-day I have crossed several flooded creeks: one by a tree which has accidentally fallen across it, and one has a tree that has been felled intentionally for a bridge; one I crossed on an accumulated heap of drift- wood; and once by a horse, where a farmer allows a Negro boy to derive a perquisite from carrying over travellers. — Goods are now carried from Limestone to Lexington for a dollar per hundred pounds weight. — This is somewhat lower than the usual rate. Waggoners are occasionally interrupted by flooded streams. Between the river Ohio and Lexington, limestone is the only rock which I have observed. Like that noticed in Ohio State, it is crowded with organic remains. The variety of the surface, in this part of the country, is pleasant. The eminences are gentle swells rather than hills, and the intervals between them are smooth, rich, and dry [107] ground. Marshy land is scarcely to be seen. — These are convincing marks of the excellence of the subsoil. 132 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 LETTER IX Lexington — Depreciated Paper Currency, and Fraudu- lent Bankers — Excess of Paper Money destructive to American Manufactures — Aversion to Menial Service — Atheneum — Dirking, Gouging, Kicking, and Biting — Prices of Live-stock — Provisions, &c. — Slavery — Effects of Slave-keeping on the White Population — Illiberal Reflections of British Tories against the Amer- icans and against Free Government — Leave Lexing- ton — Descend the Ohio to Cincinnati — Occurrences and Reflections intermixed. Cincinnati, Ohio, 30/& Dec. 181 8. Lexington, the county town of Fayette, was the capi- tal of the state of Kentucky, before the government was transferred to Frankfort. 65 It is situated in north lati- tude, 38 8', and in west longitude 8o° 8'. The town is surrounded by a fertile and pleasant neighbourhood, and is regularly built of brick and frame houses. It has a university, seven places of worship, (three Presbyterian, one Episcopalian, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic.) Three printing offices, where three weekly newspapers are published ; a branch of the United States Bank, and two other banking houses; [108] seven small cotton factories; two paper-mills, two woollen factories, five rope-walks, three grist-mills, many mer- cantile houses, and some good taverns. The population is supposed to be about seven thousand; but the increase has been slow for several years past. There is here much trouble with paper money. The notes current in one part, are either refused, or taken at a large discount, in another. Banks that were creditable a For a brief account of the origin of Lexington, see A. Michaux's Travels, volume iii of our series, note 28. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint *s Letters from America 133 a few days ago, have refused to redeem their paper in specie, or in notes of the United States' Bank. In Ken- tucky, there are two branches of the United States' Bank; thirteen of the Kentucky bank, and a list of fifty inde- pendent banks, some of which are not in operation. In the state of Ohio, there are thirty chartered banks, and a few others which have not obtained that pernicious dis- tinction. In Tennessee, the number of banks, including branches, is fourteen. The total number of these estab- lishments in the United States, could not, perhaps, be accurately stated on any given day. The enumeration, like the census of population, might be affected by births and deaths. The creation of this vast host of fabricators, and venders of base money, must form a memorable epoch in the history of the country. — These craftsmen have greatly increased the money capital of the nation; and have, in a corresponding degree, enhanced the nom- inal value of property and labour. By lending, and otherwise emitting, their engravings, they have contrived to mortgage and buy much of the property of their neigh- bours, and to appropriate to themselves the labour of less moneyed citizens. Proceeding in this manner, they can- not retain specie enough to redeem their bills, admitting the gratuitous assumption that they were once possessed of it. They [109] seem to have calculated that the whole of their paper would not return on them in one day. Small quantities, however, of it have, on various occa- sions, been sufficient to cause them to suspend specie payments. So long as a credulous public entertained full confidence in the banks, bankers gave in exchange for their paper, that of other banks, equally good with their own. The same kind of exchanges are still offered now, when the 134 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 people are very suspicious of the circumstances and inten- tions of money manufacturers; and bankers console their creditors by professing to be as solvent as their neighbour- ing institutions. The holder of the paper may comply in the barter, or keep the notes, such as they are; but he finds it too late to be delivered from the snare. The peo- ple committed the lapsus, when they accepted of the gew-gaws clean from the press. It is altogether sur- prising that the people of this country have shut their eyes against the strongest light of experience. If they had kept sufficiently in recollection the vast issues, and the ultimate depreciation of continental money during their revolutionary war, they might have effectually resisted the late influx of paper. But the farmer, the mechanic, and the labourer, have been, for a short time, pleased with what was, in name, a greater price, or a greater hire. As every necessary of life has been proportionally raised in nominal value, they do not find that their comforts or savings are substantially enlarged. They are in reality diminished to the amount of the gains that have arisen to the paper mint, and of the brokers who deal in depre- ciated money. The immutable maxim, that productive labour is the true source of wealth, has been lost sight of. Designing men [no] have availed themselves of that apathy, and the deluded multitude have been basely duped. The baneful consequence of the paper system are not confined to internal derangements here, but are extended to every department of foreign intercourse. The mer- chants and manufacturers of other countries are enabled to sell their goods, and the produce of their labour, nomi- nally cheaper than the Americans. Imports are increased, and a large balance of trade arises. This must be paid in 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 135 specie. Foreign capitalists, who engage their funds in American speculations, must also have the dividends, or profits on their stock, paid in the precious metals. The grain raised by the American farmer is sent abroad, but the price is greatly reduced by expense and risk incurred by a voyage, also by the profits of merchants on both sides of the Atlantic. The cotton and the wool are sent to Europe under similar disadvantages, and a repetition of them in reconveying the manufactured goods to Amer- ica. A few facts will set this impolicy in a strong light. Cotton, which now sells in the United States for a few cents per pound, is, in certain cases, sent to England, and returned to the wearer at nearly as many dollars. A gen- tleman from Mount Sterling, about thirty miles east of this place, told me that a good coat of English manufac- ture, costs there thirty-six dollars. Indian corn sells at twenty-five cents per bushel. The farmer, then, who wears such a coat, must pay a hundred and forty-four bushels for it, — a quantity sufficient to be bread for twelve men for a whole year. One pound of good tea costs twelve bushels, — bread for one man for a year. A chemical manufacturer, at Pittsburg, buys saltpetre imported from India, cheaper than he can procure the spontaneous product from the [in] caverns of Kentucky. Although most of the metallic and earthy substances, useful in manufacture, are abundant in America, she imports jewellery, cutlery, glass, crystal, earthen and porcelain wares. By this means the republic discourages her own artizans, and pays the taxes of foreign mon- archies. Under the present money system it is in vain that nature has diffused her mineral resources over the New World. In vain will the government impose the highest restrictive duties on imported goods, while every 136 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 crop of flax augments the imaginary money capital to a greater extent, and while there is the smallest residuum of specie left in the country. It would be an interesting inquiry to find the number and the names of legislators in the different states assemblies, who are interested in banking concerns. The people would then see how the power that grants chartered privileges to banks is con- stituted. Although the convulsion which agitates bankers in the western country, is but of recent date, their money is in various instances thirty per cent, under par in the east- ern states. Tavern keepers, grocers, and others, receive the money of the banks nearest to them, although they know that these banks will not pay specie for them. They see that, without the rags now in circulation, they could have very little money. Every one is afraid of bursting the bubble. How the country is to be delivered from this dilemma, bankers have not yet shewn. They are still strongly inclined to continue the traffic ; but they can- not be expected to support organized establishments of directors, presidents, cashiers, clerks, offices, and empty coffers, without committing farther spoliations on the people. When the sick system dies, the public will see the full amount of the penance they have to suffer [112] for their credulity. A smaller, but a more substantial capital, will be resorted to, one better calculated to " place the manufacturer beside the farmer." December 5. To-day a shower of rain fell, and was followed by snow. The part that lies unmelted is about an inch thick. Among the succession of people at the tavern, many are polite and obliging in their behaviour. Some are interesting in their conversation, and some talk of horses 1818-1820] Flint \f Letters from America 137 and horse-racing. The latter kind of discourse is mixed with swearing. Lexington is still considered the capital of fashion in Kentucky. There are here many genteel families, a few of which keep coaches. The town, on a whole, exhibits a well-dressed population. The menials are nearly all slaves. Free blacks detest every thing that they think resembling their former condition. White people are still more averse to live as hired people in families. Fe- males, however idle, and however great their difficulties may be, remain with their parents, till removed by that great change that all hope for. In many cases, it is said that their repugnance to support themselves, by the earn- ings of hired labour, induces them here, as in other places, to lead a life of profligacy and ruin. December 9. For several days past the temperature has remained steadily a few degrees below the freezing point. This morning the snow disappeared, and through the day, the heat seemed to be much greater than ever I felt at this season of the year. 12. The Atheneum, or reading-room, is much fre- quented. It is well furnished with newspapers, and with the most distinguished periodical publications; scientific journals, army and navy lists of [113] Britain; Rees' Cyclopaedia, and some other books. Attached to the institution is a small collection of objects in Natural His- tory; and some articles of the dress, arms, and tools of the Indian people. I cannot omit mentioning some par- ticulars: — A bowl of unglazed earthen ware found along with a mummy in a cave in Tennessee. In shape it resembles a modern cast iron pot; and is a specimen of manufacture superior to that executed in some of the coarser works of the kind amongst civilized people: an 138 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 Indian register from the west of the Mississippi, which is cut on a small piece of white marble. The subject of it is a record of their wars. Those of long duration, or of great extent, are represented by larger holes bored in the stone. Seven great, and fourteen inferior wars, are indicated. When the nation migrates, or when the tablet is filled with spots, they enter the register on a black stone, and part with the white one. The tribe has now five black stones in keeping. The solidity and wax colour of the specimen rank it equal with the famous Parian marble. To-day I saw a young man buy a dirk. The number of these weapons exhibited in the jewellers' shops show that a great sale of them must be expected. The dirk has a pointed blade, four or five inches long, with a small handle. It is worn within the vest, by which it is com- pletely concealed. The advocates for private arms openly declare that they are for defence, but the dissipated, the passionate, and the freebooter, urge a similar pretext for carrying the stilleto. Quarrels must be conducted in a dangerous form; and murder must be made a prelude to robbery, amongst a people who use concealed arms. Spain exemplifies this truth — and it is from her colonists prob- ably that the southern and western Americans have learned this practice. [114] Fights are characterized by the most savage ferocity. Gouging, or putting out the antagonist's eyes, by thrusting the thumbs into the sockets, is a part of the modus operandi. An extension of the optic nerve occa- sions great pain to the sufferer. Kicking and biting are also ordinary means used in combat; I have seen several fingers that had been deformed, also several noses and ears, which have been mutilated, by this canine mode of fighting. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America !39 December 13. To-day a crowd of people were out wit- nessing the immersion of seven Baptists in a pool near the town. Many of them have a genteel and gay appear- ance; a slight shade of the ruddy complexion makes me suppose that the climate of this place is the best that I have known on this side of the Atlantic. Dec. 15. Last night a man took the Sheriff of Fayette county aside, on pretence of business, and immediately commenced an attack on him. The officer of the law drew a dirk, and wounded the assailant. I note down the prices of live stock, labour, some of the necessaries of life, &c. Price of a young male negro, arrived at puberty, Hire of ditto per annum, with provisions and clothes, .... Price of a young female ditto, . Hire of ditto, per annum, with provisions and clothes, . ■ . Price of a work-horse, from Price of a fine saddle horse, Hire of a four horse team and driver, without pro visions, .... Hire of a saddle horse per day, Mechanics per day, with board, Labourers per day, with board, Wheat per bushel, Rye, . . Corn, (Maize) [115] Oats, . Potatoes, Flour per 100 lbs. Beef, per pound, from Pork, ditto, from Mutton, ditto, from Turkeys, from . 50 cents Dollars 800 100 to 150 600 120 100 to 120 200 to 300 Cents I to ito 1 to 75 75 5o 37* 33* 33* 5 to 6 4 to 5 3 to 4 to 1 140 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 Dollars Cents Hens and Ducks, 12 J Eggs per dozen, 12 J Butter per lb. 25 Cheese, ditto, 18 Whisky per gallon, 40 Tobacco, per 100 lbs 5 Hemp, 8 Wool, per lb ........ 33J The indolence and disorderly conduct of slaves, to- gether with their frequent elopements, occasion much uneasiness to their holders. It is not uncommon to hear the master, in ill humour, say that he wishes there was not a slave in the country; but the man who is tena- cious of this sort of stock, or who purchases it at a high price, will always find it difficult to convince other peo- ple, that his pretensions to humanity towards slaves are in earnest. Some say that the fault is with the British, who first introduced them. Others reprobate the practice; but affirm that, while the laws of the country permit it, and while slaves must be somewhere, we may have them as well as our neighbours; and there are a few who vindi- cate both principle and practice, by declaring, that the negro is a being of an inferior species formed for servitude : and allege that slave-keeping has the divine sanction, as in the case of the Jews. Negroes, even in America, are said to be more prolific than the white variety of the species. They do not delay marriage because they are not in possession of lands, slaves, horses, and the other essentials of their masters: nor does the support of [116] their progeny give them much concern; the coloured children being held as the property of the owner of the mother. By him they are reared with more or less tenderness, or sold to another, as he thinks fit. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 141 The treatment of slaves is understood to be much milder in Kentucky than in the south-easterly part of the Union, where provisions are dearer, and blacks sell at a lower price. At Lexington slaves are well fed, and have a healthy appearance, and the greater part of them are well clothed. Some of the abettors of the system assert, that negroes are happier here than the free poor of other coun- tries; but there are several circumstances which may be opposed to this position. The happy Kentuckian slave lives under the danger of being cow-hided, (a term sig- nifying a whipping, with a stripe of half tanned leather, which is twisted into the form of a tapered switch of a very rigid texture,) for the slightest real or imaginary offence. His evidence is not received in court when he is opposed to a white man. Thus he has not the protection of the law, and less hope of bettering his condition. The prac- tice disregards the strongest ties of kindred and of nature. The husband is torn from the wife, and the child from the parent, to be sold into an unhealthy region, where a more galling yoke is imposed. He must not eat nor even converse in the room where white men are. Every degrading mark is set upon him. While white men ran- sack the Christian volume, that they may find fit names to their children, heathenish appellations, such as Pompey, Nero, &c. usually given to dogs, are bestowed on the coloured infant. The ordinary names of dogs and horses, the days of the week, and the months of the year, seem now exhausted in the negro nomenclature. [117] It does not require a high degree of philanthropic feeling to regret the numerous obstacles which oppose their amelioration. The governments of new territories are allowing vast tracts of country to become markets; and the older slave-keeping states are converted into 142 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 nurseries, from which multitudes of slaves are procured. If this course of policy is persisted in, the humane exer- tions of individuals, and the benevolent associations in Britain, and elsewhere, cannot counteract the growing abuse. Emancipation can scarcely be contemplated, where its objects are multiplied with such rapidity. Amal- gamation with the whites, extermination, or ultimate pre- ponderance, present themselves to the penetrating mind. The baneful effects of slave-keeping are not confined to negroes, but are widely diffused amongst white people. The necessity of personal labour being removed from the master, he either indulges in idleness, or spends his time in amusements that are incompatible with industrious habits. His progeny, seeing that every sort of useful labour is performed by the slaves, whom they are taught to regard as an inferior class of beings, naturally conceive that the cultivation of the earth is a pursuit too degrading for white men. Where such early impressions are enter- tained, we need not be surprised with the multitudes of idlers, hunters, horse-racers, gamesters and dissipated per- sons, that are here so prevalent. Were it not for the immaculate purity of the female constitution, the most invaluable half of the human character would be rendered susceptible of receiving a tinge. Fortunately for white Miss, she is able to turn to her own advantage the appar- ently adverse circumstances under which she is placed. The sable domestics with whom she is constantly sur- rounded, and [118] who obey her every nod, serve as a foil, or back ground, which, by drawing a contrast, greatly enhances her charms. The female slaves performing every menial and almost every household service, she has on this account much leisure for the decoration of her per- son. She is also at her ease, and acquires all the tender- 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 143 ness of frame which forms the delicate lady. Here also, as in some other places, the society of the two sexes is strictly regulated. Private interviews are guarded against with the most jealous care. The suitor must announce the object of his first visit, and the courtship must pro- ceed under the eye of a parent, or of some other confiden- tial person. In this happy seclusion from the scandalous affairs of the world, it is only through the medium of a female negro secretary that evasions can be conveniently practised when sentiment prevails over prudence. Mar- ried ladies also are relieved from the drudgery of giving suck to their own children. It sometimes happens that the infant boy entertains a stronger affection for his black nurse than for his white mother; and that his affection for the sooty hue may not be altogether effaced in maturer life. If the feeling is not directly conducive to the happi- ness of slaves, it has, at least, a tendency to abate preju- dices arising from their colour. How far parental prerogative applies to intercourse be- tween young people of different colours, I am not prepared to say; but the great numbers of mulattoes to be seen fur- nish sufficient evidence to preclude all indiscreet inquiry on this very delicate point. One striking fact is not to be omitted. An instance of a semi-coloured person whose origin is derived from a white mother, is exceedingly rare. [119] You have frequently heard the adherents of an illiberal faction pouring out a copious torrent of invective against the American people, and their democratic form of government, on account of slave-keeping. Such decla- mation must proceed from ignorance of the history of this country, or from a degree of malignity, ill calculated to promote the national character of Britain, or the reputa- 1 44 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 tion of the system they adore. It is for these people to be told a few facts, or to keep them in recollection, if they knew them previously. Thirteen North American prov- inces were once British colonies, principally settled by a British people. These colonies, like others subject to the same parent country, were, at an early period, the resort of English slave traders, who introduced a large proportion of African captives amongst the white population. The colonists soon became sensible of the moral evil, or of the future consequences to be derived from the cupidity of the inhuman sellers, and the indolence of unprincipled buyers amongst themselves. So early as the year 1703, 66 the colony of Massachusetts (only seventy-four years after its first settlement, and probably a much shorter time after the first introduction of slaves) imposed a tax to prevent further importations. This same settlement made at- tempts to prevent the import altogether in 1767 and 1774. Previous to the year 1772, no less than twenty-three acts were passed by the legislature of Virginia, for applying taxes to the trade, with a view to its restriction. In 1772, Virginia petitioned the throne on the same subject; but obtained no redress. Several other colonies made remon- strances at different times; but were repressed by the op- position of British Governors. In these days the grand discovery that taxation and representation ought to [120] be inseparable, was first discussed between governors and the governed. A doctrine so appalling to privileged orders was not to be adopted merely because it was sanc- tioned by reason. War, the last reasoning of Tory minis- tration was resorted to, — a war which terminated in the best soldiers of the old world throwing down their arms before the husbandmen of the new. The Americans, no * The date of this law was December 5, 1705. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 145 longer the vassals of England, were at liberty to pursue an independent course of policy. The subject of negro slav- ery engaged their attention at an early period; but, un- happily for the new government, their territory was over- spread with an unfortunate race, who, by education, habits, and resentment of former injuries, were the ene- mies rather than the members of the social compact. In this state of affairs, an immediate emancipation would have tolerated a free communication of hostile feelings amongst a people whose antipathies were as universal as their colour. In 1780, the State of Pennsylvania, although then occupied in the struggle for independence, passed an act for gradual manumission. Subsequently the whole country, north of Virginia, consisting of eight States, has either effected the total extinction of slavery, or obtained the very near prospect of it. In 1787, a law was passed, prohibiting slave-keeping in the vast tract of country north of the Ohio, and east of the Mississippi. 67 By these means the United States have, in thirty-eight years, almost pro- duced a total liberation of negroes, over half their juris- diction, — a progress vastly more rapid than England made in the introduction of a similar system of release, in her dependencies. It is unnecessary to enter here on the spirit and tendency of British domination in every quarter of the globe. If the contrast between the policy of the governments of the United [121] States and England is not sufficient to restrain antijacobin tongues within the bounds of decorum, the common interest of their faction may, perhaps, be a stronger inducement to silence, as the subject affords a most striking example of popular repre- sentation operating as a most admirable corrective of 67 Flint here refers to the Northwest Ordinance, passed by the Congress of the Confederation, July 13, 1787. — Ed. 1 46 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 an abuse that has grown up under the fostering care of aristocracy. December 19. The inauguration of the professors of the university of Lexington occasioned much stir to-day." They paraded the streets accompanied by music, the students, and a numerous assemblage of the people. I witnessed a similar procession at New York; and am told that this practice is usual at the commencement of college sessions in America. Another musical practice gained ground here some time ago. A newly married couple procured a band of instru- mental musicians to play before their house on the evening of their marriage day. In a late instance a great number of boys procured small conical tubes of tinned iron, and joined in the concert, by blowing vehemently. The dis- concerted performers were overpowered by a more in- tense sound, and desisted. No fair bride of Lexington has been since greeted by a serenade. This is one of the few instances where the manners of this country are not to be traced to British origin; but seem to be formed on the model of the true Castilian. December 24. Left Lexington. On this occasion I was the only passenger in the mail coach. Clear frosty weather allowed the sides of the carriage to be kept open, so that I enjoyed a view of the country. The expedition in travelling is great, considering the badness of the roads. The land that was beautifully verdant a short time ago, is [122] now withered by the cold. No green herbage is to be seen. A part of the country by Licking River is hilly, poor, and almost covered over with detached pieces of limestone. • For a brief sketch of Transylvania University, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 126. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 147 The clearing of this land waits for a more dense population than the present. In the spots where the woods are cut down, crops of Indian corn are repeated without inter- mission. Economical agriculture has no place here. The rude implements are left to rot in the field; and the scythe allowed to hang on a tree from one season to an- other. December 25. The coach stopped at Washington, from seven o'clock, last night, till three this morning. It over- set on my way hither, and though I received no injury, I resolved upon going no further with that vehicle in the dark, and over such bad roads. About five o'clock I was awakened by the firing of guns and pistols, in celebration of Christmas day. I heard no one speak of the nature of the event that they were commemorating. So universal was the mirth and conviviality of the people, that I could not procure a person to carry my portmanteau to Lime- stone. It remained for me to stop all day at Washington, or sling my baggage over my own shoulders. I preferred the latter alternative, and proceeded on my way. At Limestone, negroes and boys continued their firing till late in the afternoon. — Every sort of labour without doors was suspended. A watermark on the beach showed that the Ohio had lately risen to the height of fourteen or fifteen feet. It had now subsided to half that quantity, and had more than a third part of its surface covered with ice, in brisk motion downwards. December 26. Two large family boats (tied end to end) were about to leave Limestone for Cincinnati. [123] I agreed to go with them, and moved off in the afternoon. Sailing amongst moving ice is not attended with much danger, except at the commencement of the flood, when 148 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 the accumulation is sometimes very great. In other cases the boat acquires nearly the same velocity with the ice. The two boats contained upwards of forty New Eng- landers. Their activity in this (to them) new way of travelling, shewed a considerable degree of enterprise and ingenuity. In the evening we moored by the margin of the river. In this situation the craft were exposed to collision with the moving ice. The men were sagacious enough to know, that lying ashore was more unsafe than keeping in motion, but generously yielded to the mistaken timidity of the females, who were much averse to sailing in the night. December 27. The ice continued to float downward, and surrounded us so much, that we could derive but little facility from rowing. Passed Augusta, a neat village on the Kentucky side of the river. 69 Its court house denotes that it is a county town. December 29. This morning the frost was intense. A wild duck, frozen to a large mass of ice floated past our mooring. A young man, who accompanied me in a canoe in pursuit of it, had one of his hands wet; the part was slightly frostbit. New Richmond is a thriving town, on the north bank of the river. 70 It consists of about a hundred houses. Four years ago there was not a house. We have seen some farming on the sides of the hills, near the river, that is performed in a most slovenly manner. Indian corn is the only crop, and is repeated continually. 89 Augusta, at that time the seat of Bracken County, is eighteen and a half miles below Maysville. — Ed. 70 New Richmond, twenty miles above Cincinnati, was platted in 1814 by a former resident of Richmond, Virginia, hence its name. It was incorporated in 1828.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 149 No part of the manure [124] is returned to the fields. The houses are rude log cabins, built as near the river as is consistent with security from the floods. Their chil- dren are dirty and ragged in the extreme. The comforts of these people must consist chiefly in having enough to eat and drink, and in having no fear of the exactions of the landholder, the tytheholder, or the collector of taxes. LETTER X Cincinnati — Situation — Manufactures — Settlement and Progress — Weather — Credulity and Want of Ed- ucation — Descend the Ohio — Islands — Jefferson- ville — Louisville — Falls of the Ohio — Taverns and Accommodations — Expedition for Exploring the Mis- souri Country and Forming a Military Post there — Miscellaneous Observations interspersed. Jefiersonville, (Indiana,) May 19, 1819. I concluded my last letter, dated Cincinnati, 30th De- cember last, without taking any notice of the town; I shall therefore begin the present one with some particulars respecting that place. Cincinnati is no sooner seen than the importance of the town is perceived. A large steam grist mill, three large steam boats on the stocks, and two more on the Kentucky side of the river, and a large ferry boat, wrought by horses, were the first objects which attracted my attention. The [125] beach is lined with keel boats, large arks for carry- ing produce, family boats, and rafts of timber. On shore the utmost bustle prevails, with drays carrying imported goods, salt, iron, and timber, up to the town, and in bring- ing down pork, flour, &c. to be put aboard of boats for New Orleans. 150 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 The town is situated in north latitude 39 5' 54", and in west longitude 85 44', according to the determination of Mr. Ellicott. 7l The distance from Pittsburg is 305 miles by land, and 513^ miles by the windings of the river. The streets are laid out in a rectangular form, and are enliv- ened by drays, waggons, and an active people. The houses are nearly all of brick and timber: about two hundred new ones have been built in the course of the year. Merchants' shops are numerous, and well frequented. The noise of wheel carriages in the streets, and of the carpenter, the blacksmith, and the cooper, make a busy din. Such an active scene I never expected to see amongst the back woods of America. 72 The manufactories of this new place are more diversi- fied than extensive. An iron foundery, two breweries, several distilleries, a woollen manufactory, a cotton-mill, an oil-mill, a grist-mill, a nail-cutting machine, a tan- work, a glass-house, and a white-lead factory, seem to be the principal ones. But the more numerous part of the artizans are joiners, bricklayers, blacksmiths, plaster- ers, shoe-makers, tailors, hatters, bakers, tobacconists, cabi- net-makers, saddlers, &c. &c. Journeymen mechanics earn from one and three-fourths to two dollars per day. Their board costs about three dollars per week. Most of them dress well on the days they are hot at work, and some of them keep horses. In the end of December, 1788, or beginning of January, 1789, Cincinnati was first founded by about [126] twenty persons. For some time the place was occupied more in 71 For a biographical sketch of Andrew Ellicott, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 213. — Ed. 73 For the early history of Cincinnati, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 166. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 151 the manner of a fort than of a town, the neighbouring country being in the possession of hostile Indians, who, on different occasions, killed several of the settlers. In 1790, a governor, and the judges of a supreme court, for the ter- ritory, arrived. In 1792, the first school and the first church were built. In 1799 the legislative authority of the governor was succeeded by that of an assembly. In 1803, the State government of Ohio was instituted. In 1806, the government was removed from Cincinnati to Chillicothe. In 1800, the town contained seven hundred and fifty people, and in 1805, only nine hundred and sixty. It was subsequently to the last date that Cincinnati showed indications of outgrowing a village and becoming a town. Within three-and-a-half years past, the population is supposed to have been doubled, and the amount is now believed to be nearly ten thousand. January 1, 1819. To-day the boys of the town made a great noise by firing guns and pistols. They com- menced last night about dusk. During the night I heard much noise of fighting and swearing amongst adult persons. January 3. (Sunday.) Works of necessity form a numerous class here. To-day boats were loading pork, and drays carrying it down to the river. January 8. To-day the river was almost covered with ice floating downward. Many large pieces adhering to- gether form boards of one or two acres in extent. The pieces of hemlock tree intermixed make it plain that these masses of ice are from the Allegany river. January 10. (Sunday.) Dealers in pork were (in one instance) busy cutting up and salting. I [127] saw some young men in a small boat examining the driftwood on the river; when pine logs came within their reach they 152 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 dragged them ashore. Others were intercepting timber of every description, for fuel. January 11. The weather frequently changes from frosty to humid. Yesterday at two P.M. the thermometer stood at 76 in sunshine. The hottest day since the ninth of December. To-day the temperature was 54 in the shade. Jan. 13. At seven o'clock in the morning, the ther- mometer indicated 21 . By mid-day, the sun's rays soft- ened the mud in the streets. The people say that the winter has hitherto been milder than usual, and some infer that we will have no severe cold during the season. Last winter the thermometer was once observed to stand so low as io° below zero. The greatest cold from 1787 to 1806 was minus 18 . The most intense frosts of this country have the effect of congealing the moisture in forest trees, and splitting them with a loud noise. Not- withstanding the moderation of the present season, the grasses and weeds on the ground are withered to white- ness. In the woods no evergreen plants are to be seen, except the tufts of mistletoe, which are perched on the branches of the tallest trees. Examples of credulity are not rare. Yesterday a woman was deriving liberal emolument in town from fortune-telling, and from her supposed sagacity in know- ing every thing respecting stolen goods, She also pre- tended to have the faculty of discovering springs of water and metallic ores, by means of the divining rod. Her speaking in the German language led me to suppose that she is descended from that part of Europe, where Rhab- domancy 73 [128] is prevalent. Almanack predictions of n i. e. Divination by the wand. This science may be fashionable, but un- questionably it must be a novelty, as the occult sciences, particularly that of divination, can only exist with the vulgar. — Flint. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 153 the weather are works of reference. I have seen several family registers of marriages, and the births of children, in which the sign of the zodiac in which the sun was, at the time of the particular events, is recorded. The posi- tions are believed to have propitious or baneful influence on the fate of the individual. In some parts of the Union, what are called snake-stones are relied on as certain cures for the bite of the reptile, and of mad dogs, in opposition to the remonstrances of medical men. Such articles of belief having gained ground, a suspicion arises that the culture of the mind is much neglected, but unfor- tunately the position is established by more direct evi- dence. During my very short stay in this place, I have seen persons applying to others to read the addresses on packages of goods, or letters, and the sign-boards of mer- chants. A newspaper, in bewailing the want of schools, feelingly observed, that ' ' the Ohian is in many cases grow- ing up to manhood, with scarcely any other intelligence than that derived from the feeble light of nature." 74 Books are scarce. I have seen a biography of General Washington; some notices of the military and naval char- acters of America; a history of the war; the Pittsburg Navigator; and some small almanacks more frequently than any others. The advertisements of booksellers indi- cate that they deal in romance. Many of the people are not in possession of a copy of the Apocrypha) of course such Jewish stories as the Idol Bel, or Susanna and the elders, are not often made the topics of conversation. 75 [129] January 14. To-day I met with one of the pas- 74 Portsmouth Gazetteer, No. 4. — Flint. 78 These stories are found in the apocryphal chapters of the book of Daniel in the Old Testament; for Idol Bel, see chapter 14; for Susanna, see chapter 13.— Ed. 154 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 sengers who came over with me in the ship Glenthorn. He has settled with his family about twenty-five miles from this place, having bought an hundred and seventy acres of land, fifty acres of which are cleared and fenced. There is a house, two barns, and a young orchard on the property. For the whole he paid seventeen hun- dred and twenty-five dollars, and can rent it out at twelve and a half per cent, on the price. He said that he medi- tates making another purchase, and that he does not regret having left his native country. Since my arrival, I have seen an old acquaintance, who emigrated upwards of two years ago. He bought an ex- cellent farm, which was well cultivated, in the State of Ohio, and paid two-thirds of the price in ready money. The money with which he ought to have paid the remain- ing part of the price, he imprudently lent to some neigh- bours, who never repaid him. The ultimate instalment was soon demanded, which, being unable to pay, he was obliged to sell the land. At this stage of the business, he found that he had originally agreed to pay for the farm twice its value, and was forced to leave it, after having lost nearly all his money. Two large steam-boats from Pittsburg, put in here on their way for New Orleans. 78 One of them had been forty-eight hours, and the other forty-six hours and fifty 76 The "New Orleans," built for Fulton and Livingston at Pittsburg in 1811, was the first steamboat on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Having made a triumphant journey down to New Orleans, an object of wonder at every town on the way, she did not attempt to return, but ran between that city and Natchez until her destruction in 1814. The ' ' Enterprise, ' ' the fourth steamboat on Western waters, after serving Jackson in his defense of New Orleans, made the first attempt to steam up the river, reaching Louisville in twenty-five days. But the water was high and she frequently found an easy course over inundated fields, so that it was reserved for the ' ' Washington, ' ' which made a like journey in 181 7, to demonstrate the value of the steamboat for Western commerce. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 155 minutes, in descending the river. The distance, as for- merly stated, is 513^ miles. The launching of a large steam-boat attracted a great assemblage of spectators. A careful observation of their countenances convinced me, that the complexion is more pale here than at Lexington. The difference is sufficiently striking to induce the belief, that there is a considerable disparity in the climate of the two places. [130] Last week the weather was partly wet, and partly clear, the temperature was usually about 50 . Jan. 28. This has been a warm day, the temperature 5 2 in the shade, the thermometer, exposed to sunshine, stood at 88°. The sky was clear, without a single cloud. I have never seen in this country figured icicles on the insides of windows during frosty weather. This is a clear proof of the dryness of the climate. 31. I have some pleasure in stating my conviction, that honesty, benevolence, and some other Christian virtues, are not singularities in this town. Several congregations that I have attended, behave with the attention and grav- ity which becomes the worship. It was easy to recognise many persons, who go to church three times on the same day. A preacher here of the Cameronian sect, is a man of talent and information. His diligence is no less con- spicuous than his abilities. In addition to preaching three times on Sundays, he gives sermons in private houses on other evenings of the week. February 4. This evening there were several heavy showers of rain, accompanied with more thunder than the residents have ever heard at the same season of the year. For a week past, we have had no bright sunshine; but westerly winds, and a temperature of 6o° has been almost uniform. 1 56 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 With candour towards the American name, I must state, that much of the credulity recently hinted at, appears to be chargeable on people from Germany and Ireland, and their descendants. Methodists are also said to be true believers. It is at least certain, that the journal of their great apostle, Lorenzo Dow, is replete with para- graphs not dictated by the strictest accuracy. 77 [131] February 7. To-day I left Cincinnati, on my way for Jeffersonville, at the falls of the Ohio. The boat in which I proceeded is a flat ark, loaded with flour and pork, for New Orleans. There are five such boats in company, all belonging to the same owner, who accompanies them. The wind has been south-westerly, and the thermometer, exposed to the sunshine, (which is but dim) stood at 6o°. The warm weather, of late, has been uniformly attended by wind blowing up the river, importing, as it were, the air of a more southern latitude. The flower buds of the water-maple, the elm, and the leaves of the weeping willow, are burst out, and the grass has become green. Dr. Drake, the describer of this west- ern country, has stated the usual time of the flowering of the water-maple at a month later. It is to be feared that this early vegetation will be checked by subsequent frosts. Fruit trees, in that event, may be rendered unproductive for the ensuing season. We put ashore, at night, twenty-three miles from Cin- cinnati. Gusts of wind, and a dark, clouded atmosphere, 77 Lorenzo Dow, a native of Coventry, Connecticut, began his work as a Methodist preacher in New York in 1779. He spent some years in Ireland, endeavoring to convert the Irish to Methodism; also in England, where he in- troduced camp-meetings, not without opposition from a large part of the Eng- lish Methodists. Upon his return to America, he travelled from place to place, holding revivals. During his later life he was almost fanatical in his bitterness towards the Jesuits, and, as Flint implies, his zeal led him to make extravagant statements. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 157 dissuaded us against sailing during the night. Much rain and loud thunder ensued. 8. The boatmen are not obliged to row in the present moderately high stage of the water. It is sufficient to make a few pulls occasionally to keep off the shore. Two boats are tied alongside of each other, and put about with the broadside to the stream. They float at the rate of nearly four miles per hour. 9. Last night at dusk, we passed the Swiss settlement Vevay, which lies on the Indiana side of the river. 78 These people are said to be industrious cultivators of the ground. Wine is their staple [132] product. It is procured from a round black grape, nearly the size of a musket ball. The liquor is often of an acid taste, and apt to undergo the acetous fermentation in keeping. We continued our course all night. The owner and I slept in the boat by a fire, where we had scarcely room enough to stretch our- selves. In all other respects this is a pleasant way of trav- elling. The river, in most parts which we have lately seen, appears to be from five hundred to six hundred yards broad, environed with rich bottoms, and beyond these high limestone ridges. From the tops of these to the water's edge, the surface is covered with stupendous woods, with cleared farms at intervals. A few of the houses seem to be externally neat, but the majority of them are log cabins. The north side of the river is more thickly settled than the south side, where a negro population is to be seen along the banks. In the afternoon we heard a remarkable sound issuing from a swamp near the river. I was told that it was the croaking of frogs. There must have been myriads of 78 For the Swiss settlement at Vevay, see Bradbury's Travels, volume v of our series, note 164. — Ed. 158 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 them in the place, as the noise was incessant, like that of wind amongst trees, or the fall of water over a distant cas- cade. A contrary wind forced us to run ashore at a part where the limestone ridge is within thirty yards of the beach. The rock is of the siliceous kind, and the narrow bottom is strewed with large blocks that have tumbled from the steep. In the evening there was much rain and thunder, the wind continuing contrary and violent. 10. Early in the morning we heard the howling of wolves in the woods. Scarcely a single patch of cleared ground is to be seen for several miles. Louisville is situated at the south-western extremity [133] of a stretch of the river that passes in a straight line for six miles, so that the town terminates a beautiful water prospect. 79 The river is here half a mile in breadth. The towns passed on the Kentucky side of the river, are, Port-William, and West-Port. Those on the Indiana side, are, Laurenceburg, the Rising Sun, Vevay, and Madison, all places of recent erection and thriving. The Pittsburg Navigator enumerates sixty islands in Ohio above the falls. They are so uniform in their char- acter, that a description of one of them will give a general idea of all the rest. The upper end is broad, and inter- cepts part of the gravel that is moved downward during floods, forming a wide bar which acts as a partial dam that divides the stream into two parts, deflecting each of them toward the shores of the mainland, as represented by the figure. The two currents are then deflected from the shores " For a brief account of Louisville, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 106. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 159 toward the island, which is thereby curtailed in its lower parts, and at its extremity contracted almost to a point. The two currents unite below, and form a deep channel. At the head of the island the water is shallow. The largest and oldest timber stands on the lower end, and [134] younger plants of willow, sycamore, &c. on the upper end of the island. It is farther to be noticed, that the trees on islands, although of rapid growth, are by no means so large as those on the adjoining banks and bottom lands. The alluvial process deposits gravel at the head. Over this, sand is precipitated; and lastly, a superstratum of mud and driftwood is deposited, forming a rich soil for the growth of timber. These facts, taken in connection, show that additions are continually making at the head, and that the converging streams are^simultaneously carry- ing off the lower end of the island. In most instances, these are not the islands discovered by the first white men who explored the Ohio. Nor are they those that will be known by the same names, thirty, forty, or fifty years hence. Their being gradually ex- changed for others farther upward, produces an effect similar to what would be occasioned by the same islands moving against the stream, in their progress forcing the 1 60 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 current against the shores, and thereby preserving a capa- cious bed for the river. From Cincinnati downward, the ridges which bound the valley of the river on both sides are more broken, and di- vided into distinct hills, and are, of course, more diver- sified and pleasant than the unvaried ledges farther up. The traveller, notwithstanding, is apt to feel tired of the insipidity of the scenery. The same woods obstruct his view, or the same rude style of improvement meets his eye everywhere. I landed at Jeffersonville, a small town on the Indiana side of the river. 80 It stands on a high bank, and has the most pleasant situation of any town that I have seen on the banks of the river. [13$] February 12. Visited Louisville, the town, next to Lexington, the largest in Kentucky. The population probably amounts to about 3000 persons. The falls im- mediately below the town being navigable for large craft only during times of high water, Louisville derives great advantage from the carrying trade. 13. Went over the rapids. The fall is said to be twenty- two feet and a half in less than two miles. Nearly the whole of the declivity is distributed into three shoots or rapids, where the stream is very swift, occasioning breakers amongst the rocks. Except in times of very high water, boats are conducted downward by pilots who are well acquainted with the falls. The temperature of this morning was 26 %°. 17. Last night a gentleman from Carolina lodged in the tavern here. After a hired man had given him slip- 80 Jeffersonville, on the site of old Fort Steuben at the falls of the Ohio, was laid out in 1802 in accordance with a plan proposed by President Jefferson. It soon superseded the older neighboring town of Clarksville, upon the same tract of land. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 161 pers, and asked him for his boots to be blacked, he ex- claimed, "As I wish to see my Maker, I would not live in a free state, where one white man cleans the boots of another." A small degree of aversion to frivolous detail does not prevent me from describing a back-woods tavern. Like its owner, it commonly makes a conspicuous figure in its neighbourhood. It is a log, a frame, or a brick house, frequently with a wooden piazza in front. From the top of a tall post, the sign-board is suspended. On it, a Washington, a Montgomery, a Wayne, a Pike, or a Jackson, is usually pourtrayed, in a style that might not be easily deciphered except for the name attached. On the top of the house is a small bell, which is twice rung before meals. Immediately after the second peal, travel- lers and boarders assemble around the table, where they commence eating without preface. In such promiscu- ous [136] parties, the governor of a state, or a general of the militia, may be seen side by side with the waggoner. The larger towns having taverns of different qualities, and different rates of charges, a distinction of company is the natural consequence. We breakfast and sup on coffee or tea, accompanied with plenty of beef, bacon, chickens, and eggs. The hostess (or host if he is unmarried) takes her seat at the head of the table, and dispenses the tea. One or two hired people (or slaves, in slave-keeping parts of the country) wait at table. At dinner, wheaten and Indian corn breads, beef, pork, venison, wild turkey, geese, and poultry, are staple articles; with a profusion of vegetables, such as cucumbers, onions, cabbages, beans, and preserved fruits. Lodging in taverns has not gener- ally all the convenience that could be wished for. It is common to see several beds in the same room, and these 1 62 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 are simple bedsteads without hangings. There are no bells in the bed-rooms, and other apartments; nor are menials accustomed to move at the signal of the stranger. Water is rarely to be met with in bed-rooms; washing is, of course, performed under a shed behind the house, or at the pump. A full house is always the apology for caus- ing two strangers to sleep in the same bed; the propriety of the custom will always be admitted by the person who arrives latest. It has been my lot to sleep with a diversity of personages; I do believe, from the driver of the stage coach, to men of considerable name. The noted cutaneous disease is certainly not prevalent; if it was, the beds of taverns, which, like burying grounds, lay all on a level, would soon make the disease as prevalent in this coun- try, as in some others in the old world. [137] If Europeans and others, who indulge in censo- rious remarks on western taverns and tavern-keepers, would make reasonable allowances for the thinly-settled state of the country, the high price of labour, and the great numbers of travellers, their criticisms might be somewhat softened. The man who cannot enjoy a placid temper under privation of a part of the comforts of a more ad- vanced state of society, is surely to be pitied for having business in the back woods of America. A very inferior breed of cows and horses are to be seen almost every where by the river. This may be partly imputed to the want of proper fodder, and of shelter in the winter. Cattle are not housed in the season, when every plant is withered to whiteness. Grass is not sown to succeed the crops. A growth of tall weeds takes im- mediate possession of the soil. Hay, therefore, is a scarce article. Indian corn is resorted to as a substitute, but it 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 163 appears to be too hard for mastication. Butter and cheese sell at 25 cents (i3j4d. sterling) per pound. February 17. This morning was clear and frosty. Temperature 32 in the morning. Snow fell to the thick- ness of an inch in the forenoon. In the afternoon it dis- appeared. 18. The morning was clear; temperature 20 . In the afternoon the ice melted. 19. Temperature 29 in the morning. In the fore- noon, snow fell to the thickness of an inch and a half. In the evening it became liquid. There is much wet ground in the vicinity of the falls. Intermittent fevers afflict the inhabitants toward the end of summer and in autumn. Last season an unusual degree of sickness was experienced. New settlers continue to descend the river. Family boats are almost continually in sight. In a [138] boat lying ashore to-day, a man was busy in making shingles. He has brought with him pine timber from Allegany river. Shingles give a good price here, where pine trees do not grow, and they furnish him with employment at inter- vals. This is a good specimen of the provident habits and the industry of New Englanders, a people admirably adapted for taking possession of the woods. March 1. To-day the people of Jeffersonville elected a Squire, (Justice of the Peace.) Two young men dis- agreed, and fought a furious battle. In justice to the election, it is admitted that the fight was in consequence of an old quarrel. I have met with no less than eight Scotsmen to-day. We are said to be the most national of all Europeans in America, and the most loyal to old monarchy. 1 64 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 The weather is mild and clear, with the aspect of spring. Birds begin to chirp in the woods; their plumage is fine, but they are not songsters. Jeffersonville contains about sixty-five houses, thirteen stores (shops,) and two taverns; the land office for a large district of Indiana, and a printing office that publishes a weekly newspaper, and where the American copy of the most celebrated of all reviews is sold. A steam-boat is on the stocks, measuring 180 feet long, and forty broad; estimated to carry 700 tons. There are now thirty-one steam-boats on the Mississippi and Ohio. Twenty-nine more are building, and in a forward state. At present, a passage from New Orleans to the falls of Ohio costs 100 dollars, including provisions. Goods are carried 2X6% cents per pound weight. This high rate, with the danger of passing through a most unhealthy climate, in case of arriving after the beginning of July, [139] or before the end of October, gives Baltimore, Philadel- phia, or New York, a decided preference to Europeans who would settle in the lower parts of the Ohio country, or on the Missouri. It is, indeed, conjectured, that the increase of steam-boats will soon occasion a competition, and a great fall in the freight ; but, it is only after a great deduction taking place, that New Orleans need be com- pared with Baltimore, as the port for landing emigrants. May 19. The steam-boat, Western Engineer and a number of keel-boats, descended the falls to-day, with a considerable body of troops, accompanied by a mineral- ogist, a botanist, a geographer, and a painter. 81 Their 81 This was the expedition of Major Stephen H. Long. The object stated by Flint was abandoned, due to bad management of the military branch of the undertaking. While the party was wintering near the mouth of the Platte River, Long, returning to Washington, received new instructions from President Monroe, namely, to seek a pass through the Rocky Mountains south of the 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 165 object is to explore the Missouri country, and to form a garrison at the mouth of Yellow Stone river, about 1800 miles up the Missouri river. Five other steam-boats, be- sides other craft, are expected to join the expedition. The Western Engineer has on the bow, a large sculpture of the head of a snake, through which the waste steam escapes; a device, independently of the general aspect of the equipment, that might be enough to strike terror amongst the savage tribes. I shall conclude this, with mentioning two singular occurrences. The passage of a steam-boat from Pitts- burg to Louisville, seven hundred miles in fifty hours; and the marriage of a girl in this place, at the age of eleven years and three months. [140] LETTER XI Morals and Manners of the People — Defects in Educa- tion — Generosity — The President of the United States. Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) June 28, 1819. My residence at this place for some time past, prevents me from noting down such occurrences as travellers usually meet with. This letter must therefore be composed of other materials. Some remarks therefore on the people will form the subject; premising that it is not the Ameri- route of Lewis and Clark, and on the return journey to examine the source of Red River. Abandoning their steamer, "Western Engineer," the party mounted horses, followed the south fork of the Platte to the base of the moun- tains, saw and named Long's Peak, crossed over to the Arkansas, and ascended it to the Royal Gorge. There, despairing of success, they gave up the attempt and started home. The Union Pacific Railway now follows, in large measure, the route travelled by Long. In returning, he followed a stream which he sup- posed was the Red, but which proved to be a tributary of the Arkansas. For the journal of this expedition, see volumes xiv-xvii of our series. — Ed. 1 66 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 can character in general that I treat of. My opinions and assertions are founded on my own limited observa- tion, and on what I conceive to be authentic facts. The European, on his first arrival in the United States, may perhaps expect to find sound republican principles, and good morals, pervading nearly the whole population. He has probably heard that capital punishments are rare, and from that circumstance, may have inferred that there are few crimes to punish. For some time this ideal char- acter may be entertained. Newspapers will naturally be looked to, as the current records of delinquency; in these, multitudes of cases regarding the proceedings against criminals are entirely omitted. After some correspond- ence with the people, and after some observation of inci- dents, a sojourner from the old world will be apt to mod- ify his original opinion. [141] Last winter, a committee of inquiry into the state of the prison at Baltimore, stated in strong terms the in- adequacy of the present modes of punishment, and the deplorable increase of offenders, who by their numbers threaten to overwhelm every lenient corrective. The con- finement not being solitary, and the young being mixed with older and more experienced desperadoes, the institu- tion intended for reformation is literally converted into a school of vice, where plans for future depredations are regularly concerted. The speech of Governor Clinton, 82 82 De Witt Clinton (i 769-1 828) was from early manhood engaged in New York politics. Beginning as secretary to his uncle, Governor George Clinton, he was state senator from 1 798-1802; mayor of New York from 1 802-1815; and, with the exception of four years, governor from 18 17 until his death. His in- terest in the Erie Canal is well known. In 181 2 he urged its construction upon Congress; failing in that he drew up an elaborate memorial to the state legis- lature, which had great weight in inducing that body to undertake the enter- prise. When the canal was opened (1825), he was carried on a canal barge in triumphal procession from New York to Lake Erie. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 167 at the opening of the last session of the legislature of New York State, is another authority on this subject. That gentleman feelingly deplored the growth of depravity, and affirmed that magistrates are unable to inflict deserved punishments on all, and that, from the numbers com- mitted, there is a necessity for extending pardon to an un- due extent, or of granting absolute impunity. He stated farther, that the prisoner released is sometimes re-com- mitted for a new crime on the same day. The river Ohio is considered the greatest thoroughfare of banditti in the Union. Here the thief, in addition to the cause of his flight, has only to steal a skiff, and sail down the river in the night. Horse stealing is notorious in the western country, as are also escapes from prison. Jails are constructed of thin brick walls or of logs, fit only to detain the prisoner while he is satisfied with the treat- ment he receives, or while he is not apprehensive of ulti- mate danger. Runaway apprentices, slaves, and wives, are frequently advertised. I have heard several tavern- keepers complain of young men going off without paying for their board. This is not to be wondered at, where so many are continually moving in this extensive country, without property, without acquaintances, [142] without introductory letters, and without the necessity of support- ing moral character. Swearing, as I have repeatedly mentioned, is a most lamentable vice. If I am not mistaken, I have already heard more of it in America than twice the aggregate heard during the whole of my former life. A high degree of nationality is frequently to be ob- served, and encomiums on American bravery and intelli- gence poured forth by men who are not remarkable for the latter quality, and who, by their ostentation, raise a doubt 1 68 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 as to their possessing the former. Their conduct seems to be more disgusting to cultivated Americans, than to Europeans. Here are multitudes of persons who have no accurate notions of decorous behaviour. This, no doubt, may arise partly from their ideas of the equality of men, with- out making due allowances for morals, manners, intellect, and education. Accustomed to mix with a diversity of company at taverns, elections, and other places of public resort, they do not well brook to be excluded from private conversation. On such occasions, they exclaim, ' ' This is a free country" or a "land oj liberty" adding a profane oath. They do not keep in view that one man has a natural right to hear, only what another is willing to tell him. Of late I have several times found, that when I had business to transact, a third party drew near to overhear it. Hired people, mixing with families and their visitors, have ample means of gaining a knowledge of other people's affairs. I shall relate a story which I have on good author- ity. A gentleman, in a State where slaves are kept, en- gaged some carpenters from a neighbouring free State to erect a barn. On the day of their first arrival they eat [143] along with himself. On the second day the family took breakfast a little earlier than usual, and caused the table to be covered anew for the mechanics, previous to their coming in. They were so highly offended with this imaginary insult, that they went off without finishing their work. This little affair became so well known in the vicinity, that the gentleman could not procure other work- men for some time. This extension of liberty and equality is injurious, inasmuch as it prevents the virtuous part of society from separating from the vicious; and so far as it removes from the unprincipled and untutored part, the 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 169 salutary incitement to rest character on good behaviour and intelligence, instead of citizenship, or an allusion to the land 0} liberty, or the favourite maxim that one man is as good as another. I have frequently been asked such questions as, " Where are you come from? Where are you going ? What are you to do there ? What have you got in these here boxes ? Are you a merchant ? I guess, then, you are a mechanic.' ' — Dr. Franklin did well in wearing labels on his person, announcing his name, his residence, the place he was travelling for, and his business there. The abolition of titles and hereditary distinctions in America has not been productive of all the simplicity of address that might have been expected, or was perhaps intended by the illustrious founders. Squire, the appella- tion designating a Justice of the Peace, or Magistrate, is commonly retained for life, although out of office, or even when dismissed for misconduct. It is so also amongst officers in the militia. Men who are appointed Captains, or Majors, and may have been present at trainings for a short time, are called Captains or Majors ever afterwards. Of ex officio corporals or Serjeants I have heard no men- tion made. The persons who [144] take charge of keel- boats are also Captains. Except in cases where such names as those just alluded to are applied, Mr. is the epithet of every man, and is applied on every occasion. All are gentlemen. The wife is, of course, Mrs.; the daughter and maid servant are indiscriminately saluted Miss, or Madam. All are ladies. Thus the Christian name has fallen into disuse. I do not wish to be under- stood as approving of giving an appellation to one man and withholding it from another, but would only observe, that where all are Mr. Mrs. and Miss, these terms do not 1 70 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 imply a distinctive mark, and that the simple Christian names would be more discriminately useful in the affairs of life, if not almost as respectable. A passion for money has been said to be a great char- acteristic of Americans. To admit this would perhaps be conceding too much. It is certain that security of property and high profits on capital, tend to promote this disposition, and it therefore cannot be wonderful that America has a full proportion of enterprizing citizens, and such as are essential to the progress of a new country. Polite behaviour, talents, education, and property, have influence in society, here, as elsewhere. It is true that many who occupy the back ground are obtrusive, and wish to act on the principle of equality, and that violations of decorum are not repulsed with the same contempt as in Britain; but it is only those who are agreeable in their manner and conversation, that can be received as inter- esting companions amongst accomplished men. The finer sympathies of human nature are not to be taken possession of by force. Those who have believed in the equality of society in America, have adopted a position physically and morally impossible. [145] Most of the defects noticed may be traced to the education of youth, reared in families where the parents have not had the advantage of early culture, and where the son becomes a mere transcript of the father, the model after which he is formed. If he is sent to school, in most cases he knows that the teacher is not allowed to whip him. The teacher is thus rendered any thing but that object of reverence which becomes his office, and it can scarcely be expected that the young free- man will be much inclined either to follow the precepts or to imitate the example of his tutor. He is practically 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 171 taught to look down on the learned man as an inferior, and to despise the most useful attainments. The most efficient means of instruction, then, are those of the family, where, in too many instances, the children are the unre- strained offspring of nature. It gives no pleasing sensa- tions to hear them swearing, at an age when they ought to be learning to know one letter from another, or to see them throwing off submission to parents, and assuming all the confidence of manhood before they arrive at half the stature. There is one trait of character sufficiently generous to give a lustre to the American name. The stranger is not insulted on account of his country. I have not seen or heard of a single instance where a native of Britain has met with a disagreeable reflection for having paid taxes to the government so long inimical to the Republic, and that has repeatedly leagued with savages in carrying blood- shed amongst her people. In almost every part where I have travelled, I have met with intelligent and interesting individuals. In every town where my stay was for any considerable length of time, I have become acquainted [146] with citizens whom I should be happy to meet again. A few introductory letters which I brought with me to this country, have not only procured for me the most polite and friendly recep- tions, but other introductions to respectable and eminent persons before me on my route; letters not weakened by the distance of my friends, whose good wishes dictated the first, but if possible stronger than the originals. To give a summary character of the American people, or even of any considerable portion of them, is beyond the reach of my observation and intellect. It may be safe to state, that they are much diversified by education, local 172 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 circumstances, and the sources from which the popula- tion has been derived. The manners of Britain seem to predominate. The want of schools is a great desidera- tum in new settlements. Hence it is, that in travelling from the coast into the interior, the proportion of unedu- cated persons appears to be the greater the farther to the westward : a fact that has been noticed by many, and one showing that civilization follows in the rear of popula- tion. His Excellency James Munro, President of the United States, is now on a tour through the southern and western parts of the country. 83 On the 24th current, three of our citizens, deputed by the inhabitants of the town, went to congratulate him, on his arrival in the neighbourhood, and to invite him to visit Jeffersonville. On accidentally meeting with them returning, I felt myself at a loss for a trite phrase in congratulating them, and could only tell them bluntly, that in Europe we should say, You are very loyal. One of them was polite enough to set me right, by informing me, that the object of their mission was to make an expression [147] of public respect. Should you consider the loyalty of Europe, and the public respect of America as convertible terms, you will also have occasion to be set right, and this may perhaps be best done by telling you, that the President does not engage in dub- bing knights or granting sinecures: — That public officers are not appointed by his fiat, nor with the concurrence of a privy council of his choice; but in conjunction with the Senate, whose members are elected by the people. These officers are not only few, but their salaries are merely remunerations for the services which they perform. In * For Monroe's tour, see Buttrick's Voyages, volume viii of our series, note 28.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 173 short, the President is not regarded as a dispenser of public money. On his part he has to regard public greetings as the spontaneous sentiments of disinterested and independent men, without repulsing any one in the language of James the First of Scotland, "What does the cunning loon want ? ' ' On the 26th the President arrived. A tall pole with the striped flag was displayed on the bank of the river. A salute was fired, and a large body of citizens waited his coming on shore. To be introduced to the President was a wish almost universal, and he was subjected to a labori- ous shaking of hands with the multitude. A public din- ner was given. This, too, was an object of ambition. Grocers left their goods, and mechanics their workshops, to be present at the gratifying repast. The first magis- trate appears to be about sixty years of age. His deport- ment is dignified, and at the same time affable. His countenance is placid and cheerful. His chariot is not of iron, nor is he attended by horse-guards or drawn swords. His protection is the affection of a free and a represented people. [148] LETTER XII On Emigration — The Prospects of Emigrants — Incon- veniences — The method of laying out and disposing of public lands. Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) August 2, 1819. This letter will be devoted to such remarks on emigra- tion so far as my little experience and short residence in America enable me to have made. Before entering upon the subject, I think it proper to state, that I disown every 1 74 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 intention of advising any one to leave his native country; and that I disapprove of exaggerating the prospects held out here, and underrating those of Britain, as uncandid and deceptive, as appealing to the passions to decide in a matter which ought to be determined by the sober exer- cise of reason. In exchanging Britain for the United States, the emi- grant may reasonably expect to have it in his power to purchase good unimproved land, and to bring it into a rude state of cultivation, with less capital unquestionably, than that employed in renting an equal proportion of good ground at home. He will not be burdened by an excessive taxation, nor with tithes, nor poor's rates; for there are no internal taxes paid to the government, no privileged clergy, and few people who live by the charity of others. His labour and his capital will be more pro- ductive, and his accumulation of property more rapid, (good health, industry, and economy, presupposed,) [149] and a stronger hope may be entertained, that extreme poverty or want may be kept at a distance. After residing five years in the country, he may become an elector of those who have the power of making laws and imposing taxes. The inconveniences or difficulties which attend remov- ing, are upon no account to be overlooked. The man who undervalues these is only holding disappointments in reserve for himself. He must part with friends, and every acquaintance to whom he is attached, a case that he may, perhaps, not fully understand, till he acts his part in it. A voyage and a long journey must be submitted to. He must breathe a new air, and bear transitions and extremes of climate, unknown to him before. His European tinge of complexion must soon vanish from his 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 175 face, to return no more. A search for the new home will require his serious attention, a diversity of situations may soon be heard of, but it is not easy to visit or compare many of them. Nor is the emigrant, on his first arrival, an adequate judge of the soil of America. In a dilemma of this kind advice is necessary. This is easily procured every where; but it deserves attention to know, whether the informant is interested in the advice he gives. Land dealers, and others, naturally commend tracts of land which they are desirous to sell. The people of the neigh- bourhood have also an interest in the settling of neighbour- ing lands, knowing, that by every augmentation of popu- lation, the value of their own property is increased. On several occasions I have met with men who attempted to conceal local disadvantages, and defects in point of salu- brity, that were self-evident. I do not recollect of having heard more than two persons acknowledge, that they lived in an unhealthy situation. [150] In the high coun- try of Pennsylvania, I was told that Pittsburg is an unhealthy place. At Pittsburg, I heard that Marietta and Steubenville are very subject to sickness. At these places, the people contrast their healthy situation with Chillicothe, which, I was told, is very unhealthy. At Chillicothe, the climate of Cincinnati is deprecated; and at Cincinnati, many people seem willing to transfer the evil to the falls of the Ohio. At this place the truth is partially admitted; but it is affirmed that the Illinois country, and down the Mississippi are very unhealthy. The cautious will always look to the views and character of the man who would direct them, and will occasionally rely on their own judgments. In the public land-offices, maps of the new lands are kept. Sections of a square mile, and quarter sections of 1 76 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 160 acres, are laid down. The squares entered are marked A. P. meaning advance paid. This advance is half a dollar per acre, or one-fourth of the price. Lands, when first put to sale, are offered by public auction, and are set up at two dollars per acre. If no one offers that price, they are exhibited on the land-office map, and may be sold at that rate at any subsequent time. New settlers, who are sufficiently skilled in the quality of the soil, are in no danger from land-office transactions. Be- sides the land-offices for the sale of national property, there are agents who sell on account of individuals. I can mention Mr. Embree, of Cincinnati, as a gentleman who does much business in this way, and with much reputation to himself. The land office maps are divided into townships [151] of six miles square. 84 The figure represents a portion of the country laid out in this way. The positions of the townships relatively to the base line, are expressed by the numerals I, II, III, &c. and their positions relatively to the meridian are numbered on both sides of it east and west, as marked on the top and bottom. The parallels marked I, I — II, II — III, III, and so on, are called townships, Nos. I, II, III, &c. north or south according as they lie on the north or south side of the base line. Positions in regard of the meridian are indicated by the numbers 1, 2, 3, &c. at top and bot- tom, east or west, as they lie on the [152] east or west side of the meridian line, and are called ranges, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 84 The township system of survey was adopted in the first ordinance for the sale of public lands, passed May 20, 1785. The authorship of the plan has been a subject of controversy. It is usually attributed to Thomas Hutchins, first geographer of the United States, who had earlier embodied the idea in a plan for establishing military colonies north of the Ohio. See Hindsale, Old North- west (New York, 1888), p. 262.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 177 &c. For an explanatory example, suppose the designa- tion of the township at the bottom of the right hand column is required. The square in question, is in the parallel numbered V south of the base line, and IV east of the principal meridian. It is therefore called town five south, range four east. The townships are divided into sections of a square mile each, as in town No. 4 north, range No. 3 east. The figure [page 178] is a larger representation of a township, showing how it is divided and numbered. The faint lines represent the divisions of sections into quarters of 160 acres each. At the auctions [153] of public lands, and at subsequent sales, lots of this extent i 7 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 are frequently entered. The sixteenth section of each township is reserved for the support of a school. Lands entered at the public sales, or at the Register's office, are payable, one fourth part of the price at the time of purchase; one fourth at the expiry of two years; one fourth at three years, and the remaining fourth at four years. By law, lands not fully paid at the end of North. South. five years, are forfeited to the government, but examples are not wanting of States petitioning Congress for indul- gence on this point, and obtaining it. For money paid in advance at the land office a discount of eight per cent, per annum is allowed, till instalments to the amount of the payment become due. For failures in the payment of instalments, interest at six per cent is taken till paid. The most skilful speculators usually pay only a fourth part of the price at entry, conceiving that they can derive 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 179 a much greater profit than eight per cent, per annum from the increasing value of property, and occasionally from renting it out to others. Where judicious selections are made, they calculate rightly. The land system now adopted in the United States is admirable in regard of ingenuity, simplicity, and liber- ality. A slight attention to the map of a district, will enable any one to know at once the relative situation of any section that he may afterwards hear mentioned, and its direct distance in measured miles. There can be no necessity for giving names to farms or estates, as the desig- nation of the particular township, and the number of the section is sufficient, and has, besides, the singular con- venience of conveying accurate information as to where it is situated. By the new arrangement the boundaries of possessions are most securely fixed, [154] and freed alike from the inconvenience of rivers changing their course, and complexity of curved lines. Litigation amongst neighbours as to their landmarks, is in a great measure excluded. The title deed is printed on a piece of parch- ment of the quarto size. The date, the locality of the purchase, and the purchaser's name, are inserted in writ- ing, and the instrument is subscribed by the President of the United States, and the agent of the general land office. 85 It is delivered to the buyer free of all expense, and may be transferred by him to another person without using stamped paper, and without the intervention of a law practitioner. The business of the land office proceeds on the most moderate principles, and with the strictest regard to justice. The proceeds are applied in defray- 86 At every land office, a register of the weather is kept. Three daily obser- vations of the thermometer, the direction of the wind, the aspect of the sky, whether clear or clouded, fair or rainy days; and some other occasional phe- nomena, are noted down. — Flint. 180 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ing the expense of government, and form a resource against taxation. The public lands are in reality the property of the people. The stranger who would go into the woods to make a selection of lands, ought to take with him an extract from the land office map applying to the part of the country he intends to visit. Without this, he cannot well distin- guish entered from unentered grounds. He should also procure the names of the resident people, with the num- bers and quarters of the sections they live on, not neglect- ing to carry with him a pocket-compass, to enable him to follow the blazed lines marked out by the surveyor. Blaze is a word signifying a mark cut by a hatchet on the bark of a tree. It is the more necessary for the explorer to be furnished thus, as he may [155] expect to meet with settlers who will not be willing to direct him, but, on the contrary, tell him with the greatest effrontery, that every neighbouring quarter section is already taken up. Squatters, a class of men who take possession with- out purchasing, are afraid of being turned out, or of hav- ing their pastures abridged by new comers. Others, perhaps meditating an enlargement of their property, so soon as funds will permit, wish to hold the adjoining lands in reserve for themselves, and not a few are jealous of the land-dealer, who is not an actual settler, whose grounds lie waste, waiting for that advance on the value of property, which arises from an increasing population. The non-resident proprietor is injurious to a neighbour- hood, in respect of his not bearing any part of the expense of making roads, while other people are frequently under the necessity of making them through his lands for their own convenience. On excursions of this kind, the pru- dent will always be cautious of explaining their views, 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 181 particularly as to the spot chosen for purchase, and with- out loss of time they should return to the land-office and make entry. The new abode being fixed, the settler may be sur- rounded by strangers. Polite and obliging behaviour with circumspection in every transaction, become him in this new situation. [156] LETTER XIII Comparative Advantages of several Parts of the United States — Temperature of the Climate at Philadelphia and at Cincinnati — Pennsylvania — Ohio — Ken- tucky, and the Western Part of Virginia — Indiana — Illinois — Missouri — Reflections on Slave-Keeping. Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) October, 16, 1819. To determine the most proper parts of America for new settlers, is a proposition interesting in its nature, but one that cannot be solved with precision. This general fact is to be kept in view, that, in the old populous settle- ments, land is already too dear to admit of that spon- taneous increase in value so profitable in back-wood dis- tricts. The sea-board then is to be rejected by those who would go in search of the most profitable investment of their capital, and some part of the interior country is to be selected. The vast migration from the eastern States to the western, is satisfactory evidence of this state of the land market; and, besides, countenances the opinion, that the country first peopled by Europeans is not destined to such population and wealth as that rationally antici- pated in the more fertile western States. In the most inland parts of the old States, there are still abundance of good wood-lands reserved for future culti- 1 8 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 vation, embracing an extensive range of climate, and a great diversity of vegetable products; but the natives of the temperate climes [157] of Europe will, for the most part, be averse to live under the scorching sun of Georgia, or the intense frosts of the province of Maine. Some- where between the extremes, probably between Hudson River and Chesapeake Bay, affords the best approxima- tion. At Philadelphia, for example, the mean tempera- ture of the year may be stated at 53.66 , that quantity being a mean of the results obtained by the observations of Dr. Rush, Dr. Cox, 86 and Mr. Legoux; — a deter- mination nearly coinciding with that of Mr. Playfair, 87 (5 3. 5 8°) for the mean temperature of the vegetative sea- son, from the 20th of March to the 20th of October, at Edinburgh, and only 5. 86° higher than the mean temper- ature of the latter place for the whole year. It is true that the extreme variations are much greater at Philadelphia than at Edinburgh, but it will be in vain to search for a situation in the United States, possessing that equability of heat, that characterizes the British islands. From the tract of country under consideration, Mary- 88 Benjamin Rush (1745-1813), a signer of the Declaration of Independence and member of the state convention of 1787, was the most eminent American physician of his day, and by his theories regarding the nature of yellow fever won recognition abroad. Serving as physician-general in the Revolutionary army, for twenty-nine years surgeon in the Pennsylvania Hospital, and through- out his life a practicing physician, he nevertheless found time to become identi- fied with many public measures, notably the abolition of slavery, and the ex- tension of public schools, and was a member of nearly every important literary and philanthropic society in Philadelphia. John Redman Cox (1 773-1864) was, like Rush, a Philadelphia physician, being trained at the University of Edinburgh. He was for many years profes- sor of chemistry at the University of Pennsylvania, and edited several medical journals; but is best known as an early and pronounced advocate of vaccina- tion. — Ed. 87 John Playfair (1 748-1819), an eminent Scottish mathematician and astrono- mer. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 183 land and Delaware will be deducted, as ineligible to the man who does not wish to live amongst slaves. He may, indeed, live in either of these parts without employing the involuntary labourer, but the man of acute sensibility will usually be unwilling to injure the feelings of his neigh- bours, who may conceive that his abstaining from the detested practice implies a practical censure on their con- duct. Slaves being addicted to theft and other immorali- ties, form a strong objection against settling amongst them. The whole stretch of country on the coast, includ- ing Maryland, Delaware, part of Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, may be rejected, on account of the high price of land. The inland parts of Pennsylvania and New York States remain free from the objections just mentioned, and [158] are believed to possess comparative advantages in respect of climate and soil. The winter of New York State is the more severe of the two, and seems to point out Pennsylvania as preferable. With the single defect of distance from market, Western Pennsylvania possesses great advantages. The most prominent are, a healthy climate, a good soil, abundance of coal, iron-ores, limestone, sandstone, and salt springs, circumstances that render this country susceptible of a dense population, and a very high state of improve- ment. It being assumed that Pennsylvania lies between par- allels of latitude, the most temperate of any on the eastern coast, the inference is natural, that the States Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and part of Kentucky, must have a cli- mate of similar warmth, slightly modified, no doubt, by the elevation and prevalent winds of particular parts. Accordingly, observations made at Cincinnati, (which lies fifty minutes south of Philadelphia) show, that its 1 84 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 annual mean temperature is only six-tenths of a degree higher than that of the latter place. 88 The lands of the State of Ohio are understood to be more fertile than those of Pennsylvania. — With good culture, from sixty to a hundred bushels of maize per acre, are produced. On an acre of land, near the mouth of the Little Miami, one of the first settlers raised the extraordinary quantity of one hundred and fourteen bushels. The advanced state of population, in the south- ern part of the State, has withdrawn the most choice tracts of ground from the land-office; good lots, however, may still be bought from private individuals at a moderate price. The higher country, lying nearly [159] equidis- tant from the river Ohio and lake Erie, is understood to be healthy, fertile, abounding in springs of water, and possessing a good navigation downward, in wet seasons of the year, by means of the rivers Muskingum, Scioto, and Miamis. The northern part of the State is described as having many large prairies, of a rich quality, but un- healthy. Kentucky, and the western part of Virginia, have much land of the first rate quality; but the influx of new settlers is greatly prevented by the insecurity of titles. Sur- veyed at an early period, when the country was in the possession of the hostile aborigines, and before the new method of laying out public lands was adopted, much confu sion as to boundaries prevails. 89 Many conflicting 88 Dr. Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 116. — Flint. 88 In Virginia and Kentucky the state made no surveys before disposing of its lands. The settlers or speculators sought out a tract, made a survey, gen- erally marking it by "blazing" the trees, and had it recorded in the state land- office. Areas of all shapes and sizes were patented, and unpatented strips of irregular shape lay between. Moreover, there was no limit to the number of patents that could be taken out on the same piece of land, the land-office con- cerning itself not at all with controversies over titles, merely guaranteeing an 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 185 claims are frequently made on the same tract, and a degree of litigation has ensued that appears to be almost interminable. There is another cause tending to retard the ingress of new comers which it would be invidious to repeat. Indiana is a State more recently settled than any of the foregoing. The part where the Indian title was extin- guished, was, till lately, comparatively small. Non-resi- dent purchasers have shut up a large proportion of it from immediate cultivation; some judicious entries may still be made in the land-office, particularly by White River, and in some other parts at a considerable distance from the Ohio. The land office map for Jeffersonville district has many more vacancies in it than that at Cin- cinnati, showing that it contains much more land not yet appropriated by individuals. Here, as in Ohio State, the high lands are considered the most healthy. A recent purchase from the Indian tribes will make a val- uable addition to the State of Indiana. 90 The tract is supposed to contain about six [160] millions of acres, and is to be soon abandoned by the natives. Already upwards of a hundred families have entered it, for the purpose of rearing cattle and hogs. These will have excellent oppor- tunities for selling their stock when purchasers take pos- session of the newly acquired territory, and will have the advantage of becoming acquainted with the most valuable lands previous to the sales. The surveyors, and other persons, who have visited the new purchase, represent it entry if no previous title was valid. The original claim to hundreds of thousands of acres in Kentucky was never settled, the land being eventually held under possession titles. — Ed. 90 This refers to the Miami cession made at St. Mary's, Ohio, October 6, 1818. By this treaty the Delaware and Miami Indians ceded all central Indiana between the Wabash and White rivers. — Ed. 1 86 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 to be rich, diversified in surface, with the advantage of navigable waters in spring and autumn; and that it is much better adapted to pasturage than the country adjoining to the Ohio. In the State of Illinois there are vast quantities of land to be disposed of by the Government, besides the residuary of former sales, standing open in the land-office maps at Shawneetown 91 and Edwardsville. 92 The recent sur- veys bring about 3,730,000 acres into the market. A great portion of this land lies on the Sangamon, a south- ern branch of Illinois river; and I am informed by a gentleman who has lately been there, that the country is the best that he is acquainted with. At a period not far distant, a communication between Lake Erie and Illinois river may be opened through the river Plein, which empties itself into the lake. 93 Craft are said to have already passed out of the one river into the other. A large portion of Illinois, lying between Illinois river and n For the early history of Shawneetown, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 108. — Ed. 92 Edwardsville, on Cahokia Creek, twenty miles northeast of St. Louis, was founded in 1816, and named in honor of Ninian Edwards, first governor of Illi- nois Territory. — Ed. M A canal connecting Illinois River with Lake Michigan was first suggested by Jolliet in 1673, when he and Marquette returned by that route from their exploration of the Mississippi River. Such a canal was included in Gallatin's system of internal improvements, proposed in 1808. President Madison laid the matter before Congress in 18 14; Calhoun, as secretary of war, again called attention to it, in 1819; and for twenty years it found a place in the governor's annual message. Finally (1836), its construction was undertaken by the state, aided by large congressional land grants. The Illinois-Michigan Canal, ex- tending from La Salle, on the Illinois, to Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chi- cago River, one hundred miles in all, was completed in 1848, and opened with much ceremony. In 1882 the state ceded the property to the United States, in the hope that the latter would enlarge it for a ship canal. But the next step was taken by the Chicago Sanitary District, which at a cost of about $35,000,000 has completed the Chicago Drainage Canal for the better disposal of the sewage of Chicago. This canal was opened January 2, 1900, after seven years spent in its construction. Flint's reference is to the Des Plaines (Plein) River. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 187 the Mississippi, is a military grant given to the troops who fought in the late war, and divided amongst them at the rate of a hundred and sixty acres to each man. 94 Shares of this land have been sold since its partition at a dollar, and even so low as half a dollar per acre. The military grant is chiefly low and flat. The soil is rich, and inter- spersed with [161] prairies 95 but subject to agues: this, with a great proportion of non-resident owners, must greatly retard the improvement of the district. The northern parts of Illinois are understood to possess a healthy climate. In the Missouri Territory, large surveys are just com- pleted, these consist of about a million of acres near Osage river, and about two millions toward the Mississippi, in- cluding the old settlements. The reports of the Missouri country which I have heard, convince me, that it con- tains a large quantity of good lands, and that it is favoured with a fine climate. A gentleman who wintered at St. Louis, near the mouth of the river Missouri, assured me that the cold is more severe there than in the Ohio coun- try. Although his opinion was formed from his sense of feeling, without reference to the thermometer, it is prob- ably just, as the situation of St. Louis is relatively high, and as much of the neighbouring country is without wood, admitting a free circulation of winds, from higher and more northerly parts. M The Illinois military grant was the peninsula between the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, as far north as a line drawn west from the confluence of the Illinois and Vermilion rivers. The value of the land began to appreciate soon after Flint's journey, and ten counties were erected within it in 1824-25. — Ed. m Van Zandt's description of the military grant. — Flint. Comment by Ed. Nicholas Biddle Van Zandt, A full description of the soil, water, timber, and- prairies . . . of the military lands between the Missis- sippi and Illinois rivers (Washington, 1818). The author, the title-page shows, was "Late, a clerk in the General Land Office of the United States, Washington City." 1 88 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 In the countries adjoining to Arkansau and Red rivers, about two millions of acres are laid out for sale. The former of these rivers is understood to be larger than the Ohio, and passes through a fertile country. The post of Arkansau is situated a little northward of latitude 34 . 98 A parallel that must be felt uncomfortably hot by most Europeans. Cotton is the most profitable product; a vegetable that has hitherto been almost exclusively cul- tivated by involuntary labourers. Michigan and north-west territories are understood to be fertile, and well adapted to rearing cattle. Detroit is the capital of Michigan. 97 In [162] the north-west terri- tory there are two settlements; one at Fort Howard, and the other Prairie du Chiens. 98 A military post is to be formed at the mouth of St. Peter's river, below the Falls of St. Anthony. 99 These extensive regions lie in a lati- tude corresponding with that of the New England States; and will probably be peopled by a hardy race of freemen, " For the Arkansas Post, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 195.— Ed. •' For the early history of Detroit, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 18. — Ed. • 8 For Fort Howard, see Evans's Tour, volume viii of our series, note 8a. The mouth of the Wisconsin had been the site of temporary trading-posts during the French regime, but the first permanent settlement was begun in 1781 by Indian traders. For the expedition thither the following year, see J. Long's Voyages, volume ii of our series, pp. 186-191. During the War of 1812-15 Prairie du Chien was alternately in possession of the Americans and British; see Wisconsin Historical Collections, xiii, pp. 1-164. Upon the return of peace, the Americans built Fort Crawford (18 16) which was for many years a military post and Indian agency. — Ed. M Lieutenant Pike obtained the site for this fort from the Indians in 1805, but no use was made of it until 1819, when Fort St. Anthony was begun at the mouth of Minnesota (St. Peter's) River. Upon the recommendation of Gen- eral Scott, who inspected it in 1824, the name was changed to Fort Snelling, in honor of the military officer who directed its construction. It was sold by the government at private sale in 1857; but a congressional inquiry ensuing, a new arrangement was made in 187 1, whereby the fort was retained and the re- mainder of the military reservation transferred to the purchaser. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 189 when the lands of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, can be no longer procured at a low rate. Those who would go in search of healthy situations may keep in view, that their object can only be attained, at a distance from swamps, and rivers which overflow their banks; it being well known, when the former are dried up, and when the latter recede within their low-water boundaries, vast quantities of mud and vege- table matters are exposed to the heat of the sun, and a rapid decomposition immediately commences. The gase- ous constituents evolved give a perceptible taint to the air, and are understood to form the miasmata that occa- sion agues, bilious fevers, and liver complaints. The best navigable waters, and the most healthy parts of the country, are, in some measure, incompatible, and seldom admitting of immediate proximity to one another. Hap- pily, a moderate height of land is usually sufficient to pre- vent the accumulation of stagnant waters, and to promote a motion in rivers, that lessens the scope of their inunda- tions, or retains them altogether within their banks. A degree of elevation conducive to a comparatively healthy climate, may be usually found within two or three miles of the river; but as the contaminated air is liable to be transported by winds, and probably not sufficiently diluted with the atmosphere in passing over such small spaces; a greater distance from the source of contagion [163] is no doubt preferable. I have, on various occasions, seen per- sons from the higher country, about forty miles north of this place, whose complexions are apparently more healthy than those of the people who live on the banks of the Ohio; and several of late who profess to have a reluctance to come down to the river on business, at the present sea- son of the year. In the preceding part of this letter I mentioned the 190 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 high country lying near the heads of the northern tribu- taries of the Ohio, as having a good climate. That part of it watered by the Muskingum, the two Sciotas, and the two Miamis, possesses a downward navigation in spring, and in the latter end of autumn, but as these rivers enter the Ohio above the falls at Louisville, the upward navi- gation is interrupted there during the summer months. This single circumstance amounts to a weighty objection against the eastern part of the country under considera- tion. The western part has two great navigable streams, the Wabash, and the Illinois. The Wabash is navigable for boats drawing three feet of water, to the distance of about 400 miles from its mouth, and in floods about 200 miles farther. Its largest tributary is White River, which is navigable to a great distance upward. It waters a fertile and delightful country, and joins the Wabash below all its rapids except one run, which forms no great obstruc- tion to the navigation. The new seat of government is to be erected on the bank of one of the streams of White River. 100 The Illinois is esteemed one of the best navi- gations in western America. So early as 1773, a Mr. Kennedy sailed upward to the distance of 268 miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. 101 Sangamon river, 100 In the Indiana enabling act passed in 1816, Congress granted to that state for a seat of government, any four sections of land thereafter to be acquired from the Indians. Commissioners appointed by the legislature selected the present site of Indianapolis in 1820. However, it was then a wilderness over sixty miles from any store, and the government was not actually transferred thither until 1825. — Ed. 101 Patrick Kennedy was a trader at Kaskaskia, in the Illinois country, dur- ing British ascendency. The expedition referred to was undertaken in search of copper mines, and extended as far as the mouth of Kankakee River. His journal of this tour is published in Hutchins, A Topographical Description of Virginia (London, 1778). — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 191 one [164] of its principal streams, is said to be navigable for 180 miles by small craft. From the best information that I can procure, this western division of the country, north of the Ohio, appears to be highly eligible to new settlers. It unites the advan- tages of having high lands and navigable waters in immediate contact, and a shorter and a better communi- cation with the ocean than any part of western America, that is to be exclusively cultivated by freemen. The country on Missouri river, has been already noticed as possessing advantages in soil and climate, but the diffi- culty of the navigation upward, amounts to a considerable objection against adopting that territory. A convention of the people formed a constitution, and laid before Con- gress their claim for being admitted as a State in the Federal Union. The new constitution asserts the right of the people to hold slaves, and of admitting more negroes from other parts of the United States. Towards the conclusion of last Session of the legislature, this ques- tion of right was warmly discussed, most of the members from the Southern States maintained, that Congress have no right to dictate to the people of any new State on this subject, viewing it as a matter of internal policy, and one that does not come under the jurisdiction of the general government, — and the treaty of Session stipulated, that the Spanish colonists remaining in the country, should retain their former rights and privileges. In opposition to these doctrines, the members from Northern States argued, that Congress has a constitutional right to inter- fere, and urged as a precedent, the act prohibiting the introduction of slavery into the country north-west of Ohio river, with other arguments too numerous to be recapit- ulated here. It is painful [165] to learn that the repre- 192 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 sentatives of the nation are so much divided on this inter- esting question, and, in the present instance, to reflect, that in most cases their proceedings are expressions of the will of their constituents. The affair waits the decision of next Session, and, in the meantime, much solicitude pre- vails with regard to it. The most intelligent citizens are at a loss to anticipate the result, and the members of the Legislature are probably equally uncertain, whether the new State shall become a receptacle of slaves, and its representatives the future advocates of a Slave keeping interest. The slave keeping States, and those which have prescribed the practice, commonly called free States, seem to be struggling for predominance. There are now eleven Slave keeping, and eleven free States, so that Mis- souri must give a sort of numerical preponderance to one of the parties. The number of representatives for free States, are apportioned according to the number of free persons in each, and in Slave keeping States, they are regulated by the number of free persons added to three-fifths of the slaves, a method that has the effect of strengthening the influence of the Southern party. When the Missouri question is set at rest, 102 the people of the United States will no doubt reflect on the singular line of demarkation which they have drawn. Supposing that the internal frontier was produced to the Stony Moun- tains, or to the Pacific Ocean, every speculative mind must contemplate it, not merely as a topographical divi- sion, but also as a sort of moral boundary, separating a great nation into two parts, very dissimilar in the habits and jurisprudence of their people, and will seriously medi- 1 1* *p 5p 3JC 3|% 5fC ******* *J* *p 5p *J* 5|* 5JC 5|C The awakenings in Kentucky that were some years ago hailed by the religious magazines of your country as the workings of the Divine Spirit, [238] must have been those that occurred at camp meetings of Methodists. These assemblages are now said to be on the decline in Kentucky; and when meetings were held on a grand scale there, many disorders were committed by immoral persons, tending to the great scandal of religion, and occasioning the precau- tionary measures already noticed in this detail. LETTER XX Circumstances that retard Manufacturing Industry, and Causes of its prosperity Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) Aug. 15, 1820. In my letter of the 26th of June last, I mentioned that mechanics were leaving the towns of the western country, becoming cultivators in the back woods. In many cases, their former habits are such as are not well calculated to reconcile them with their new situations. It appears evi- dent that such people, placed in the forests, cannot for some time raise a quantity of produce sufficient to procure in exchange such foreign luxuries as they formerly con- 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 265 sumed, and such articles of imported dress as they have been accustomed to wear. The former may be easily dispensed with, but for the latter a substitute must be pro- vided. Family manufacture is the obvious resource; but it must proceed slowly in cases where the females are not acquainted with this branch of industry, and [239] in the uncleared woods, which are not suitable pastures for sheep. It is to be regretted that manufacturing estab- lishments are not erected, as these would not only furnish employment more congenial to the habits of artizans, and preserve to them their wonted accommodations, but would be of vast national importance under the present circum- stances of America. I trust that a brief exposition of a few of the principal causes which retard manufacturing industry, and of the means of promoting it, in this country, will not be unac- ceptable to you; especially as the policy of America, on that subject, affects at once the interests of both coun- tries. The primary obstacle that has hitherto prevented Amer- icans from fabricating their own necessaries, from the pro- ducts of their own country, is universally acknowledged to be an extensive intercourse with Great Britain, in export- ing produce, and importing manufactured goods in return; — a correspondence that subjects American artisans to a competition with a country in which wages are low, labour subdivided, and in which the most stupendous mechanical apparatus is employed. The indecision which has heretofore characterized the conduct of the United States, with regard to manufac- tures, seems to have originated in the diversity of inter- ests represented in the government. The people of the southern States are, for several reasons, averse to making 266 Early Western Travels [Vol. o concessions for procuring home-made goods. They are comparatively little devoted to mechanical pursuits, and still less acquainted with the diversified operations of workshops. Their negroes are seldom trained to any thing but agricultural and menial services, and the [240] condition of these labourers is otherwise unfavourable to the acquisition of skill in new employments. This part of the country, besides, exports large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and rice, articles that do not excite the jealousy of the landed interest in Britain; but, on the contrary, almost enjoy a monopoly of the British market. It is plain that the people who possess advantages of this kind, have it more in their power to continue traffic with Eng- land than their northern neighbours, whose produce is excluded by the corn laws of that country, which have been wisely enacted. Traders who have capital vested in ships, and in the importation of manufactured goods, form a class that is more interested in opposing an independent system than any other. Though their influence in Congress appears to be declining, some time must elapse before their funds can be directed to other pursuits. The import duties on foreign manufactures, high as in most cases they appear to be, have not the effect of pro- tecting American artizans from competition with those of other countries, who work cheaper. This disadvantage has been produced by the profuse issues of a paper currency. Money of this sort not taking the market abroad, it re- mains in the country, where it operates against industry, by augmenting the nominal price of labour. Hence people are complaining of want of employment, while they de- pend on the labour of foreigners for almost every artificial modification of the materials raised on their own soil, or 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 267 that lie unheeded under their feet. Import duties are not to be considered merely as enactments for promoting American manufactures, for they constitute the principal source of national revenue. It might be difficult to form a conception of a revenue [241] that could be collected at less expense, or of taxation raised in a more voluntary manner on the part of the people. But as moderating these duties must unquestionably, on every occasion, be injurious to home industry, and as augmenting them to the extent of the total prohibition of foreign goods would introduce smuggling, the two objects of the system are in some degree incompatible in the present state of money affairs. The capital vested in uncultivated lands, is a mere dormant stock which cannot be applied to such active employments as the erection of workshops, machinery, and other outlays necessary for the establishment of man- ufactories, unless it is replaced by other funds. Neither is it so easy to procure money as formerly by mortgaging cultivated lands, now when the prices of produce are so low. The expedients resorted to, in keeping base money in circulation, are, with respect to manufacturing interests, as impolitic as they are, in fact, unjust. Bankers, who are virtually insolvent, are to be ranked amongst the opposers of manufacturers, as it must be impossible for such men to contemplate the reduction of the quantity of money so essential to industry, without dreading the retri- bution that awaits them. The present condition of the United States is well suited to convince the people of the expediency of making exer- tions for supplying their own wants. Europe is no longer to be relied on as a market for their produce, and Great Britain in particular has in effect excluded the grain and 268 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 the timber of the United States from her markets, and prohibits Americans from trading with her West India colonies. Since these restrictions have taken place, great quantities of British manufactures have been imported into America, and the course [242] of exchange has shown, that a large money balance has arisen in favour of Britain. Some persons interested in the traffic, infer the prosperity of the United States from their being able to pay a balance of trade. Though general doctrines of this kind are sanc- tioned by several great economists, on the broad principle that an exportation of money indicates a corresponding importation of property, or in other words, an accumula- tion of wealth; before adopting an assumption of this kind in any particular case, it may be safe to inquire whether the import consist of articles, which are perma- nently beneficial, or of luxuries either of the more perish- able kinds, or of those more conducive to ornament than utility. With regard to the late imports of the United States, it is thought sufficient to notice that they have not furnished the ability to continue them in their usual amount. Farther, nothing can be more plain than the necessity of abridging the quantity of paper money in circulation; and when this is done to a sufficient extent, foreigners will find it impossible to procure dollars here on terms so easy as formerly. Were money rendered so scarce, that it would command three or four times the quantity of the necessaries of life that it does now, foreign labour would be excluded, and the American labourer, with a third or a fourth part of his present nominal wages, would find the only changes in his condition to be a greater demand for his work, and an immediate enlargement of his resources. The farmer would eventually find the means of increasing 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 269 his produce, and the advantage of a home market; and capitalists now engaged in foreign commerce, would find employment for their funds in manufactures. Fortu- nately the impolitic course latterly [243] pursued is leading to its own correction. Specie is seldom to be seen in the ordinary transactions of business, except in small worn pieces of inferior denominations, and cut money, from which a portion of the metal has been fraudulently abstracted. The deficiency in weight prevents this part of the currency from being exported in direct payments, and nothing but the recent depreciation of paper seems to prevent these remnants of silver from being disposed of as bullion. In former times, when Europe furnished a market for almost every kind of produce, the strongest inducements to agricultural industry prevailed. The fertility and the vast extent of the United States enabled cultivators to increase in numbers, in a manner that would have produced a disagreeable competition, in a more thickly peopled country; but the recent state of commercial affairs shows that America is not wide enough to prevent the inconve- niences of competition in a narrow market. The neces- sity of a new distribution of pursuits becomes every day more apparent, as without it the people cannot enjoy the articles of comfort and luxury hitherto imported. Some of the most popular newspapers now advocate the cause of manufactures, and several public societies take a deep interest in promoting the internal prosperity of the country. The society at Philadelphia for promoting American manufactures, 130 have in some of their papers mo Tkg Philadelphia Society for Promoting Domestic Manufactures, organ- ized in 1803, with Stephen Girard as president, was incorporated in 1805. A central warehouse was established, where articles of American manufacture could 270 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 reasoned in such a manner as to prove that they possess a comprehensive knowledge of the subject, both of its effects on national wealth, and of manufacturing business. The resolutions of the society lately instituted at Cincin- nati for the promotion of agriculture, manufactures, and domestic economy, are subjoined, [244] as a mark of the patriotic spirt that now prevails. 131 The committee of this society consists of people of the greatest wealth and influence in the city and neighbourhood. Of the essays in favour of manufactures which have been published, it may be observed generally, that they be concentrated and sold, thus doing away with the expense of middlemen. The society was active in advocating a protective tariff. The Cincinnati Society for the Promotion of Agriculture, Manufactures, and Domestic Economy was organized in 1819. Quarterly meetings were held, and prizes offered for the best essays on subjects relating to agriculture and domestic manufactures. — Ed. 131 "15/. We will not purchase, or suffer to be used in our families, any im- ported liquors, fruits, nuts, or preserves of any kind, unless they shall be re- quired in cases of sickness. ' ' 2d. Being convinced, that the practice which generally prevails of wearing suits of black as testimonials of respect for the memory of deceased friends, is altogether useless, if not improper, while it is attended with a heavy expense; we will not sanction it hereafter in our families, or encourage it in others. "3d. We will not purchase, for ourselves or our families, such articles of dress as are expensive, and are generally considered as ornamental rather than useful. * * 4th. We will abstain from the use of imported goods of every description, as far as may be practicable, and we will give a preference to articles that are of the growth and manufacture of our own country, when the latter can be procured. lt $th. We will not purchase any articles, either of food or dress, at prices that are considered extravagant, or that the citizens generally cannot afford to pay; but will rather abstain from the use of such articles until they can be ob- tained at reasonable prices. 1 ' 6th. We will observe a rigid economy in every branch of our expenditures, and will, in all our purchases, be influenced by necessity rather than convenience, and by utility rather than ornament. "7th. We believe that the prosperity of the country depends in a great de- gree on a general and faithful observance of the foregoing declaration; we there- fore promise that we will adhere to it ourselves, and that we will recommend it to others." — Farnsworth's Cincinnati Directory. — Flint. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 271 recommend the adoption of higher import duties. That these have not been resorted to, need excite no surprise, as the secretary of the treasury has shown that an increase of duties must be followed by a decrease of national rev- enue, [245] and as the ultimate substitute, internal taxa- tion, would probably be unpopular, although imposed with the most sparing hand. The spontaneous decrease in the amount of money capital now going on, does not seem to be duly appreciated ; — an occurrence that is evidently well calculated to give an impulse to American industry. When the United States shall abandon the spurious money now in circulation, and proceed on a smaller but more substantial capital, a new era of national prosperity will commence. The government will be freed from the danger, or rather the certainty, of losing the revenue by a smuggled trade, and will feel less necessity for resorting to restrictive regulations. A less sum of money will be sufficient to defray the public expenses. The consequent cheapness of labour will give the agriculturist new ad- vantages in foreign markets, and develop in a new de- gree the natural resources of the country. The home market, occasioned by a manufacturing population, will be secure, as being beyond the reach of foreign govern- ments, whose caprice is hostile to the security of American trade. Whenever the country shall be able to manufacture the whole, or the greater part of its necessaries, the ex- ports of produce must be attended with an importation of specie. The ingress of foreign capitalists may also be calculated on as one of the effects to be produced by the change of system. The introduction of manufactures must promote in- ternal improvements, as the making of roads and the con- struction of works, for facilitating inland navigation. The 272 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 country will be rendered capable of supporting a greater population than it can under the present system, thereby removing much of the inconvenience that attends their present settlements; [246] better opportunities for mental improvement, and the means of more prompt national defence, will be acquired; foreign commerce and foreign relations will be abridged, so that the hazard of hostilities with other countries may be greatly lessened. A small shipping trade evidently requires less naval protection than an extensive foreign commerce, and the retrenchment may perhaps admit of some relaxation in the present con- struction of ships of war. The reverses so frequently injurious to the manufacturers of Britain are less to be dreaded in the United States. While their manufactures do not exceed their own wants, it will always be practi- cable to prevent the home market from being overstocked, and while the vacant back woods are held in reserve, a manufacturing population need not be reduced to pauper- ism by the want of a foreign market for their fabrics. The erection of manufacturing establishments was rec- ommended some time ago by intelligent citizens, who fore- saw that the money capital of the country could not long supply the great efflux of specie. Now, a change of policy becomes a matter of necessity. It is chiefly to be regretted several State legislatures are too active in forcing the circu- lation of degraded money; — a procedure which, in the meantime, retards the natural subsidence of the convul- sion, and keeps property out of the hands of its real owners. However far they may succeed in procuring indemnity for past peculations, their efforts must be impotent in opposi- tion to the future interests of mankind. The paper cur- rency that they strive to support falls in spite of their utmost exertions. I now find that my expense of living or 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 273 of travelling is nominally the same that it was in the autumn of 181 8. At that time I paid in specie, or in money, which [247] was considered as nearly equivalent to it, but of late I have on various occasions found that paper is accepted which is 50 per cent, worse than silver. A person who collected a salary to the amount of about eight hundred dollars, told me that he had received only five dollars of that sum in specie. You can easily perceive that, under this state of things, very few will give specie to the tavern-keeper, grocer, or others, while he can pre- viously procure for it one and a half times, or twice its nominal amount, in what is called current paper. Most of the small towns have a person who follows the business of money changing; and merchants and other persons transact in that way, so that specie is almost entirely with- drawn from retail business, and applied to the purchase of public lands, or other objects, for which depreciated paper would not be accepted of in payment. Under this condition, an unsettled or precarious sort of internal trade is carried on, but it is impossible to import foreign goods as formerly. The want of employment is another strong inducement to adopt an independent system of economy, but a cum- brous load of paper money presses industry to the earth. It is found by experience that the farmer cannot pay 125 cents per day to the labourer, and sell his corn for 25 cents per bushel, nor can the labourer work for a small hire while he pays two and a half, or three dollars a-week for his board, and an extravagant price for his clothing. Sim- ilar obstacles occur in almost every branch of industry that furnishes anything for exportation, or comes into competition with the labour of foreign artizans, so that the operations of this country now consist chiefly of works 274 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 of first necessity. A gentleman who has opportunities of being well acquainted with the [248] business of Philadel- phia, has computed that in that county alone, there are at least 15,000 persons who are either entirely idle or are en- gaged in unproductive labour. He stated that he has had more than twenty applications for employment, when he could give work only to one, and that several other manu- facturers say, that they cannot employ a tenth part of the applicants they meet with. The same gentleman esti- mates that there are about 150,000 unemployed persons along the Atlantic coast, and that there are 350,000 persons of the same description in other parts of the country. 182 It is not pretended that these enumerations are de- rived from accurate data, or that they are even very close approximations to the real numbers; but, taken in connec- tion with other well known facts, they may be received as satisfactory evidence that the evil exists to a very con- siderable extent. 138 m Letter to the President of the United States, by John Melish, Esq. Phil. 1818.— Flint. m From the paucity of the circumstances attended to in statistical inquiries, the most superficial observer might infer that national pride is sufficiently grati- fied by the number of human beings, without regard to that of useful or efficient citizens, and that governments are satisfied with knowing little more of their people than that they die, and that they were born. It were to be wished that enumerations were made annually, instead of at the usual long intervals of time; and in addition to the particulars ordinarily ascertained, such were embraced as, the number of those who can show that they procure their subsistence by lawful means; those who have fixed residences; those who have received a moral edu- cation; the nature of employments; the duration and immediate causes of their avocations; bankruptcies; convictions for specified crimes; the known or proxi- mate causes of deaths; cases of lunacy; jelo de se; epidemy and meteorological reg- isters made in every department of the country. The collection of information of this kind might be conducted in a manner that would operate as a beneficial supervision of society. It would furnish the police department with a new in- sight into the sources of delinquency. Taken in connection with coexistent laws which effect trade and revenue, and criminal laws, and the state of markets, political economy would be furnished with new instruments for investigation. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 275 [249] Want of employment is here viewed as a want of organization. With you it is represented to be an indica- tion of an overpeopled country. The government of the United States does not attempt to get rid of its people, but, on the contrary, it welcomes the stranger who arrives on their shores. Your government pay for transporting their subjects, or encourage their removal by giving them lands gratis. Canada is wide enough to receive them, but its connection with England does not admit of a free trade. Multitudes of emigrants find their comforts as narrow as before, and remove into the United States. If facts of this sort indicate any thing, it is that no extent of country can compensate for mismanagement, or, in other words, a nation is more easily overstocked from impolicy than from want of soil. The habits and institutions of the American people are peculiarly favourable to the adoption of manufactur- ing pursuits. They have no corporations with exclusive privileges, and no laws which enact any specific period of apprenticeship. Their well known spirit of enterprise, and the circumstance [250] of almost every man's being acquainted with handling the axe, the hammer, the saw, and the joiner's plane, must give a facility to the acquisi- tion of mechanical labour. Besides, it is understood that a few weeks, or at farthest a few months, are enough to communicate the knowledge of most of those employments, The approach of misery might frequently be anticipated and arrested without being exhibited on the poor's list, in the workhouse, or in the shape of inability to pay taxes. Crimes might be prevented, and better criteria obtained for dis- criminating between offences committed against law, and those perpetrated by law. A new light would be thrown on several branches of physical science, and particularly on agriculture, climate, and the healing art. It is but too easy to discover that the desideratum is not in unison with the affairs of the age, but it is probable that another Alfred, or a Lycurgus must arise before it can be rem- edied. — Flint. 276 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 and that the work can soon be reduced to practice by sub- sequent application. The progress already made in sev- eral branches of manufacture tend to inspire a strong hope as to future attainments. The fabrication of coarse cotton cloths, called domestics, which now undersell British goods of similar quality; the making of iron articles, of leather- hats, paper, types, engravings, the construction of steam- boats, and the building of ships, are mentioned as flatter- ing examples. As the disposition to promote American manufactures is progressive, and as popular opinion dictates the meas- ures of the government, it may be safe to infer that com- merce with England is now in a deep decline, and that the erection of workshops (though it should be on a moderate scale) may be hailed as the liberation of the United States from foreign monopoly. [251] LETTER XXI Circuit Court of Indiana — Lawyers — Presiding Judge — Trial and Whipping of a Thief — Lands — Crops — Fourteen-Mile-Creek — Salt Springs — Town of Cory- don — Drought — Barrens — Caves — Effects of a Tor- nado — Formation of the Higher Alluvial Bottom Lands of the Ohio — More Barrens — Salt River — Large Trees — Wild Vines — Steam-Boats — The Falls of the Ohio — Prevalence of Bilious and Intermittent Fevers — Taciturnity — Americanisms. Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) Sept. 8, 1820. Since writing my last letter to you, I have made several short excursions into the country. — I was at Charlestown, the seat of justice in Clark county, 134 while the circuit 134 Charlestown, first settled in 1808, is near the centre of Clark County, twelve miles north of Jeffersonville, and has always been the county seat. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 277 court sat there, and had opportunities of hearing the ora- tory of several barristers, which was delivered in language at once strong, elegant, and polite. A spirit of emulation prevails at the bar, and a gentleman of good taste informed me, that some young practitioners have made vast progress within two or three years past. The United States cer- tainly open an extensive school for eloquence. The number of cases of litigation before the various courts of justice is very great; and there are numerous opportuni- ties for exerting popular talent, as at elections, where the harangues are called stump-speeches, from the practice of candidates mounting the stumps of trees, and there ad- dressing themselves to the people, and in State Assemblies. [252] The circuit court consists of a presiding judge, who makes a progress over the whole State, and who meets with two associate judges at the several seats of justice. Associate judges are local, and only act in their respec- tive counties. One of these gentlemen opened the court at Charlestown last year in the absence of the presiding judge. — A large jug, for holding cold water, that stood on the bench, had a caricature portrait of a judge painted on it, and several lawyers, on coming forward to open their cases, bowed to the figure, and directed their eyes to it during their speeches, occasioning much laughter in the house. It was not till the arrival of the presiding judge that the contempt was checked. Freedoms on the part of lawyers seem to be promoted in the back-country, in con- sequence of the bench being occasionally rilled with men who are much inferior to those at the bar. The salary of the presiding judge (I have been told) is only seven hun- dred dollars a-year. As he is engaged in public business and in travelling nearly the whole of his time, that sum can only defray his expenses, even under the most econom- 278 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ical management, so that there can be no great error in supposing that he acts gratuitously. The present pre- siding judge is a man who has distinguished himself in Indian warfare. 135 Whatever opinion you may form of the bench here, you may be assured that it is occupied as a post of honour. Amongst the business of the court, the trial of a man who had stolen two horses excited much interest. On his being sentenced to suffer thirty stripes, he was imme- diately led from the bar to the whipping-post. Every twitch of the cow-hide, (a weapon formerly described,) drew a red line across his back. This was the second infliction of the kind that had been sanctioned by [253] court in the State, since my coming into it. I do not notice the infrequency of punishments as wishing to occa- sion a belief that misdemeanours are seldom committed. Indeed, were it not for the absolute impunity obtained in most cases, we might soon see the partial development of a new system of physiognomy, one not founded on the features of the face, but on the striped lineaments of the back. Never, till now, did I so much value the usage of Scotland, where the inhabitant, on removing from one parish to another, carries with him the testimonial of the church. The surface of the land in the neighbourhood of Charlestown is beautifully diversified, varying between gently undulated and steep of broken ground. The soil 135 This was Benjamin Parke, a leading man in Indiana under both territorial and state governments. Emigrating from his native state, New Jersey, in 1797, he came first to Lexington, where he studied law, then removed to Vincennes in 1 80 1. He was chosen the first territorial delegate to Congress, but resigned (1808) to become a territorial judge. Upon the admission of Indiana to the Union, he was appointed by President Madison United States district judge with circuit court powers, a position held until his death in 1835. He took part in the battle of Tippecanoe, and was for several years an Indian agent. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 279 is of the first rate quality, and covered with luxuriant crops of Indian corn. The crops of wheat are what you would call a second rate crop, and several fields of oats, which I saw, were headed out, and were as bulky as any that I have seen in Mid-Lothian; but, for a reason formerly stated, the grain cannot be expected to arrive at fine quality. The banks of Fourteen-Mile- Creek, (which joins the Ohio at the distance of four- teen miles above the falls,) are cliffs of limestone that are overtopped by tall woods, and form, by their wind- ings, many romantic scenes, of which I can convey no adequate idea. The stream is at present almost entirely dried up, but the extent of its bed, and the marks of inun- dation by its margin, convince me that its floods are nearly equal to those of the Clyde at Glasgow. Some salt springs that percolate through the rocks in the bottom, have been discovered during the present dry season: the existence of these were first surmised by an ingenious gen- tleman, with whom I am well acquainted. He proceeded by introducing a small tube into a [254] deep and still part of the river, and drew water from the bottom that was perceptibly saline. He has now some people engaged in boring, by which means the discharge of water has been considerably augmented, and has commenced evaporat- ing on a small scale. This process is usually performed by filling a number of iron kettles, of about three feet in diameter, and six inches deep, with the water, and placing them on loose stones, or over a trench that is dug in the ground for receiving the fuel. Boring for salt water is a work that is occasionally accompanied with a considerable degree of difficulty. Where the bore communicates with a fresh water spring, on a higher level than the saline one, a tube of tinned iron is let down to exclude the former. At 280 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 the salt-works by Kanhaway River, perforations have been made in the lime-stone rocks to the depth of two hundred feet. There a hundred gallons of water are said to yield a bushel of salt; but there are waters evaporated in other parts of the country that do not yield more than a fourth, or even a sixth part of that quantity. Corydon, 136 the capital of the State of Indiana, is a small village, situated in an obscure valley of Indian Creek, and is surrounded by high and broken wooded lands. The weeds which cover the clear parts of the town plot are withered to whiteness by the drought, as is most of the ground in this part of the country, swamps and lands under crop excepted. The site of a new capital for the State is determined to be on the east branch of White River, where the lands are still in the hands of the government. Future convenience, and the prospect of promoting the sale of land in the late Indian purchase, seem to have, on this occasion, triumphed [255] over private interest. — No name has yet been assigned to this inland metropolis. Between Corydon and the river Ohio, (about twenty- five miles,) the surface is of a rolling structure, and the soil good. Grass, at all times scanty on account of the small quantity of cleared ground, is now withered. The surface, where closely shaded by large trees, scarcely ex- hibits any thing that is green; rotten logs, and the leaves of last autumn, are strowed over the ground, presenting the most gloomy picture of desolation. Where large trees are thin, a growth of underwood prevails. Grounds called barrens are interspersed with the woods in this part of Indiana. — These are covered over with small copse- 188 The capital of Indiana Territory was moved from Vincennes to Cory- don in 1813, and remained there until 1825 (see ante, note 100). Corydon is near the center of Harrison County, twenty-five miles west of Louisville. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint* s Letters from America 281 wood, as hazel and briars, also with grasses, and an immense variety of deciduous plants.— The name bar- rens must have arisen from the lands so denominated not producing such a large growth of vegetable matter as the forests, rather than from sterility. They are, in real- ity, much better pasturages than the woodlands, and, when cultivated, produce the best crops of wheat. I found trav- elling through the barrens to be somewhat uncomfortable, on account of exposure to the rays of the sun, and the dust of the road, which was continually raised, in a little cloud, by the motion of the horse's feet. This sort of ground is dry, and without the vast quantity of decaying vegetable matters to be seen in the woods, and for these reasons it is probably more conducive to health. A great portion of the soil of western America lies im- mediately over immense strata of horizontal limestone, in which are numerous fissures. I have often seen the presence of these indicated in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana, by hollows in the [256] ground in the form of inverted cones, which are here called sink holes. Some of these fissures have openings to the surface. A stupen- dous one in Kentucky, 137 known by the name of the great cave, has been explored to the distance of nine miles from its en trance. 138 The nitrate of potash has been found in 137 Mammoth Cave, about ninety-five miles southwest of Louisville, was accidentally discovered by a hunter in 1809. At the present time two hundred and twenty-three of its avenues have been explored, making a total length of one hundred and fifty miles. During the War of 181 2-1 5, salt was manufactured from the nitrous earth in its caverns, and transported across the mountains to Philadelphia and Baltimore. The close of the war rendering this industry un- profitable, the cave has since been used only for exhibition. — Ed. 138 A description of this cave was written by John H. Farnham, Esq., and by him transmitted to the American Antiquarian Society, instituted by the legis- lature of Massachusetts. — Flint. Comment by Ed. "Extract of a letter .... describing the Mammoth Cave, in Kentucky," in American Antiquarian Society Transactions, i, p. 355. 282 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 some of these caves, and the sulphate of magnesia in others. Many of them abound in stalactites of calc sin- ter; and copious streams of water pass through some of them. One of these in Kentucky turns a subterraneous mill, to which access is obtained by a sink-hole; and a Colonel C of Indiana told me that a settler in his neighbourhood, on digging a well, penetrated into a stream of water, and found blind fishes in it. 139 During the last and the present summer, this country has suffered droughts, which the inhabitants consider ex- traordinary. Between Corydon and the Ohio the water was very muddy. Some people in that part are obliged to carry water from a distance of two miles. It is not uncommon now to see mill streams entirely dried up. I have seen several peach trees, with the fruit nearly ripened, almost dried up by the scorching heat; and, in some instances, the woods assuming the appearance of autumn prematurely, from the same cause. The disadvantage of the want of water will be thought less appalling, when it is recollected that the clearing of the ground has a tendency to increase springs; and when it is considered that [257] the dryness of rivers is not occasioned by the total want of springs, but by the evaporation from the bottoms of water-courses; and farther, that water in most situations may be procured by digging wells. Immediately on the north bank of the Ohio, and about thirty miles below the falls, I crossed an avenue in the woods, 600 or 700 yards wide, which had been devastated 130 Since the above was written, a notice of blind fishes has appeared (if I mis- take not) in the memoirs of the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh. — Flint. Comment by Ed. This was a Scottish Society composed of the followers of the German geologist, Abraham Gottlob Werner (1750-1817), who promul- gated the doctrine of the aqueous origin of rocks. His followers were known also as Neptunists. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 283 by a tornado that had passed from west to east, and in its way cleared the ground almost entirely. The largest trees were either torn up by the roots or broken. In the part that I observed, nothing but underwood and the shattered fragments of trees remained. On making in- quiries as to the hurricane, I was informed that it swept over the country to the length of several hundred miles; and that, on the Kentucky side of the river, it totally obstructed a road with timber which has not yet been removed. It is also about thirty miles below the falls that the range of high land, called the knobs, intersects the river. This is the ridge that crosses the lower part of Indiana, and part of Kentucky, which the late M. Volney noticed under the name of the Silver Creek hills; and by him sup- posed to have once formed a dam, that retained a lake in the valley of the Ohio, extending from the ridge just mentioned, to the place where Pittsburg now stands. That philosopher attempted to show that the higher bottom lands, which are above the level of the present inundations, were deposited in the bottom of the lake; and that, on the waters making a gap in the barrier, the lake was drained, and the Ohio withdrawn into its pres- ent lower and less capacious bed. That the knobs once formed a dam I am forced to admit, from having seen marks on a high level on the limestone rocks in the gap, which [258] clearly indicate the action of a cataract: but I am, notwithstanding, led to agree with Dr. Drake's hypothesis, which explains the formation of the higher bottom land, as being the alluvion of the Ohio at a time when that river was much larger than at present. The facts relating to this subject that have come within the reach of my own observation, may perhaps be inserted in 284 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 a well-known scientific journal. In the meantime, it may be sufficient to say, it is now ascertained, that the waters of Erie, and other great lakes, formerly flowed southward into the valley of the Ohio; and that a cataract, more tremendous than the falls of Niagara, raged among the rocks of Silver Creek hills. In the neighbourhood of Salt River and Green River, in Kentucky, there are extensive tracks of barren wastes. Small hazel bushes from two to three feet in height abound in these; and the quantity of nuts produced exceeds any thing of the kind which I have ever seen. The soil of these wastes seems to be very similar to that of the adjoin- ing woods; and on account of the trees diminishing grad- ually in size, from the forest toward the waste, it is some- times impossible to discover a line where the one stops and the other begins. This, together with the fact told by an old settler, that some small saplings which stood on his farm twenty years ago, are now become tall trees, leads me to adopt the opinion entertained by some, that the wastes or barrens owe their characteristic form to the Indians, who set fire to dried grass and other vegetables with the design of facilitating their hunting. Salt River is between 100 and 150 yards wide where it unites with the Ohio, and is navigable for about sixty miles. The name is derived from salt springs in its vicinity that are now wrought. Opposite to the mouth of this river, on the north [259] bank of the Ohio, stands a sycamore tree of stupendous size, which is hollow within. I measured the cavity, and found one diameter to be twenty-one feet, and the other twenty feet. In one side of it, a hole is cut sufficiently large to admit a man on horseback. It was probably a sycamore considerably less than this that is noticed in the Pittsburg Navigator, 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 285 (edition printed in 181 8, p. 29,) in the following words: — u There is one of these huge trees in Sciota county, Ohio, on the land of a Mr. Abraham Miller, into whose hollow thirteen men rode on horseback, June 6, 1808; the four- teenth did not enter, his horse being skittish, and too fearful to advance into so curious an apartment, but there was room enough for two more. ' ' 14 ° There is perhaps no vegetable in this country that strikes the mind with greater surprise than the wild vine. I have seen one with a stem nine inches in diameter, and heard of others measuring eleven inches. Some detached trees have their tops closely wreathed with the vines in a manner that forms an elegant and umbrageous canopy, into which the eye cannot penetrate. In the woods they overtop the tallest trees, and from thence hang their pendulous twigs almost to the ground, or pass their ramifications from the branches of one tree to others, overshadowing a considerable space. In many instances their roots are at the distance of several feet from any tree, and their tops attached to branches at the height of sixty or eighty feet, without coming into contact with the trunks of trees, or any other intermediate support. To make the case plain, I have only to say, that the posi- tions of some of these vines have a near resemblance to the stays, and some other ropes of a ship. The question, how they have erected themselves in this manner? is frequently put. Boats that descend the [260] Ohio are often moored without any other cable than a small vine. 140 It was common for early Western travellers to mention large trees as indicative of the richness of the soil. Among others, the following mention the great trees of the West: Washington, Harmar, William Brown, Cutler, Harris, Baily, Hildreth, and Birkbeck. Most of these trees were sycamores, such as that monster which Washington measured on his tour in 1770. Some very large apple-trees are also mentioned. — Ed. 286 Early Western Travels [Vol. o If a notch is cut in the stem of a vine in the spring season, clear and tasteless water runs out, not in drops, but in a continued stream. I have several times quenched my thirst from sources of this kind. For upwards of two months, the Ohio has been low; steam-boats cannot now pass from the falls at this place to the Mississippi, nor can boats, descending with produce, get down the same rapids without unloading the greater part of their cargoes. The trade of the country is of con- sequence much interrupted. In spring, 181 8, there were thirty-one steam-boats on the Mississippi and Ohio; at present there are sixty on these waters. This increase of craft, together with the decreasing quantity of goods imported, has lowered the freight from New Orleans to the falls of the Ohio, from six cents to two cents per pound. The rates paid by passengers, however, are not reduced in the same proportion. The falls of the Ohio are occasioned by a bed of hori- zontal limestone that stretches across the river, which is upwards of a mile in breadth. At the head of the falls, the river is about a mile broad, including a small island, but in dry seasons of the year the waters are much con- tracted in breadth, leaving a great portion of the rocky bottom entirely dry. The interruption to the navigation is not a precipitous cascade, as the name would imply, but a rapid, which is extremely shallow at the head in dry weather, and runs over an uneven bottom, at the rate of about fourteen miles an hour. After passing the upper, or principal shoot, nearly the whole of the waters are collected into a deep but narrow channel, close by the Indiana shore, leaving some small islands toward the opposite side; [261] the second, or lower shoot, is less violent, having deeper water, and is always navigable for 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 287 loaded boats passing downward. The lives of a number of strangers have lately been lost, by venturing down with- out pilots. The whole fall, at the lowest known stage of water, is nearly twenty-four feet; but in floods the decliv- ity is distributed over a large portion of the river, and is imperceptible to the eye. The rocks contain vast quan- tities of organic remains, as madrepores, millepores, favo- cites, alcyonites, corals, several species of terebratulae, trilobites, trochites, &c. &c. These remains being harder than the water-worn rocks, appear prominent, as if in relief, and many of them almost entirely detached. They are so numerous, that the surface is literally studded with them. Volney, who visited this place, has represented the rocks to be destitute of such subjects. It must have been at a time when they were covered by water. The inhabitants in the neighbourhood of the Falls have been visited by attacks of bilious fever and ague. A con- siderable number of persons have been carried off by the former of these complaints, and the convalescent of both are much debilitated. A surmise lately appeared in a Louisville newspaper, that many poor people had suffered from the want of medical assistance, and hazarded the opinion, that a number had died in cases where season- able applications might have been efficacious. Accounts from Vincennes U1 say, that about a third part of the people there are confined to bed by sickness, and that much of the Wabash country, both in Indiana and Illinois, are now subject to the same evil. Reports from the settle- ments on the lower parts of White river represent that sickness prevails there and along other water courses. There are many [262] people who act as if they were not 141 For the early history of Vincennes, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series, note 113. — Ed. 288 Early Western Travels [Vol. o sufficiently sensible of the disadvantages resulting from settling in unhealthy situations. Fertility of soil and commercial advantages are the great attractions, but men who look to these as primary considerations, obviously undervalue some of the strongest checks to population and public prosperity. The endemical distempers of this country, so far from being chiefly confined to the weak and the aged, seem to commit their greatest devastations amongst the young and the strong. Surviving sufferers are frequently rendered unfit for labour for a third or fourth part of the year, and receive an irreparable injury to their constitutions ; regimen and medicine become almost as indispensable as food ; productive labour is thus dimin- ished, and an additional cost imposed on life. Tavern-keepers observe that travellers are not nearly so numerous as they were last year. The change is to be imputed solely to the decline in trade, and to depression in the price of lands. The fact shows that a proportion of the populace remains at home through necessity or economical motives. Happy it is for them, that the pres- sure of the times does not, as in certain other countries, turn out a numerous class in the condition of houseless poor. Travellers, however, are still so numerous, that a stranger, not fully aware of the rapidity with which new settlements are forming, and of the great populace of eastern States, might be apt to imagine that Americans are a singularly volatile people. In the whole of my correspondence with the unlettered part of the people of the western country, I have observed a brevity of language, that seems to be occasioned by their not being acquainted with [263] an extensive vocabulary. Their manner of speech is grave, apparently earnest, and adapted to business more than to intellectual enjoyment. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 289 It is seldom that any thing jocular, or any play of words, or circumlocution, or repartee, is uttered by them. If a question is put, it is usually answered in the shortest man- ner possible. Sometimes abridgments are made that render expressions inconclusive, and give them the form of the inuendo, even where ambiguity is not intended, and by people who, if they were accosted in ironical terms, would make no other reply than an astonished gaze. Technical language is, for obvious reasons, much limited. I have had opportunities of seeing a number of Americans and Irish, who were engaged in the same sort of employ- ment, and could not omit noticing the contrast formed. Where work was let by the piece, the Irish (although pre- viously strangers to one another) uniformly joined in working together in large groupes, and amused themselves by conversation, occasionally introducing the song, the pun, and the bull; while Americans, under similar con- ditions, preferred working alone, or in parties not exceed- ing three, and attended to their business in silence. The conversation of those whom you would call the lower orders, shows that they have a very considerable knowl- edge of the institutions of their country, and that they set a high value on them. Their discourse is usually in- termixed with the provincialisms of England and Ireland, and a few Scotticisms. This might be expected, since America has been partly peopled by the natives of these countries. They also use some expressions the original applications of which I have not been able to discover. These I must call Americanisms, and will subjoin some examples. [264] Movers ... for People in the act 0} removing from one place to another. Fresh .... — Flood in a river. 290 Early Western Travels [Vol. o Bos — Master. Hired Girl — Servant Girl. Hired Man — Servant Man. Reach . — A part oj a river that continues for a considerable distance nearly in a straight line. Raised . — Bred or reared, the participle passive 0} to breed, (frequently applied to the human species.) Tot — Carry. This is said to be of negro origin. Carry the horse to water . — To take or lead the horse to the water. Chores . — Probably derived from chars; little, odd, detached or miscellaneous pieces of business. Rowdy . — Blackguard. Truck . — Culinary vegetables; sometimes ap- plied to baggage. A Machinery . — A Machine. Floy — Dirty or foul. Clever . — Honest, or of good disposition. Creature — Horse. Rooster, or he-bird . — Cock, the male of the hen. LETTER XXII Miscellaneous Remarks on the Manners and Habits of the People Jeffersonville, (Indiana,) Sep. 11, 1820. In your letter of the 15th of May last, you mention your apprehension that I am living amongst a half civilized people. Perhaps this is partly occasioned by my having, in former letters, mentioned a considerable number of dis- agreeable incidents. [265] Matters of public notoriety always attract attention, while the more gratifying affairs of private life, as the most pleasant family scenes, the 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 291 strictest integrity, and even acts of the most disinterested generosity, are, from their more frequent occurrence, omitted as less interesting. Hence it is, that the stories of travellers, however authentic they may be, and however amusing to their readers, are often more calculated to promote prejudices then to convey accurate information regarding society and morals. It is the energy and the tendency of public institutions that form the best index to national character. I have at different times called your attention to the disadvantages here in respect of opportunities of educa- tion, and the influx of immoral strangers. In these respects the back-woods are mere colonies in comparison with the better state of society in the eastern country. Had I lived in Connecticut or Massachusetts, instead of Indiana, I might have met with fewer irregularities to relate. My acquaintance with many persons from the older communities of the Union, causes me to entertain the highest opinion of the attainments there, and con- vinces me that it would be nearly as unfair to collect the ingredients for forming the character of the British peo- ple in their foreign possessions, as it is to infer the state of American society from the habits and manners of peo- ple in new settlements. Adopting this view of the matter, it may be asked, in which of the British colonies is a thirty-sixth part of the soil set apart for the support of schools ? which of them make their own laws, and appoint their own governors? or which has produced such an example of availing themselves of the lights of the age, as has the new State of Alabama, in rejecting usury laws. [266] There is no course of conduct that would belie my feelings more than attempting to misrepresent the character of the American people. From the time of my 292 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 first landing in the country till the present, I have enjoyed intercourse with people of eminence in society, and have uniformly met with the most polite receptions, and, on many occasions, with such marks of kindness that I can never have sufficient opportunities to requite. Names would be altogether uninteresting to you, but there are many here that I cannot recal to recollection without associating them with those of the personages whom I most admire, and of the friends whom I most esteem. The American community is not, like that of Britain, divided or formed into classes by the distinctions of title and rank, neither does political party seem to form such a complete separation amongst men, and the unequal distribution of property operates much less. The effects of these conditions are, that the individuals who com- pose our society are less mutually repellent to one another than with you, and the distinctions formed here are of a more natural kind, such as those founded on public serv- ices and talents, and the more uninterrupted associa- tions that proceed from the sympathies of human nature. I am almost of opinion that the more extended bonds of American society are much strengthened by universal suffrage, and the frequent recurrence of elections, for this reason, that the candidates having no boroughs to be treated with in the wholesale way, and the constituents being too numerous, and coming too often in the way, to admit of their being bought over, expectants are obliged to depend on their popularity, and do not find it their interest to repulse any one. It is only from these causes that I could attempt [267] to account for the affability of manners which are almost universal. The inhabitants of American towns are not, like some of the people of your cities, ignorant of the names of the persons who live in 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 293 the nearest adjoining houses, or who perhaps enter by the same outer door, and the new settler in the woods is soon so well known, among a wide circle of neighbours, that almost any person, within ten miles of him, can direct the stranger to his residence. The civilities exchanged by people who meet on the roads, or in taverns, and the readiness amongst strangers to converse together, are matters of surprise to natives of Britain. A short time ago I went on business to the residence of a gentleman of high military rank, who has made a dis- tinguished figure in Indian warfare, in the late war on the Canadian frontier, and by his eloquence in Congress. His hospitality and the urbanity of his manners are not less conspicuous than his other great qualities. His house, from the numbers of his visitors, has a great resemblance to a tavern. He has on his property a great number of people who rent land on shares, (a term formerly explained to you.) When one of these tenants, or when almost any other stranger of respectable appearance, happens to come to his house about the time of dinner, he usually invites him to table. Amongst his party at dinner I observed an old man, who joined in conversation for about half an hour after the cloth was removed. On his rising to depart the host politely accompanied him to his horse. It was not till after mounting that the stranger intimated the object of his call. — "I have," (said he,) "for a long time wished to see General , and now I am satisfied. * ' In the afternoon he walked over his farm, and gave direc- tions to some people making hay, [268] and to others employed in a distillery, in which he uses the corn paid to him as rents. That article now sells at twenty-five cents per bushel, but when converted into spirits, it yields him at the rate of a dollar per bushel. In the evening 294 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 two itinerants, a presbyterian preacher and his wife, arrived with an introduction from an acquaintance. After some conversation, the preacher performed worship in the family In the morning, after breakfast, the Gen- eral contributed a few dollars to the support of religion, and held the horses while the two travellers mounted. It would be of little use to multiply facts showing that people of the first consequence, in the free States of this country, do not keep numerous hordes of menials, and that they know how to help themselves, as the high price of labour might alone lead you to infer this as a consequence. I shall only relate an example in point. The gentleman with whom I board keeps a tavern; he is an officer who fought for the liberties of his country, during the revolu- tionary war, and is now adjutant-general of the militia of this State. 142 One morning I found him engaged in clean- ing his own shoes, in the absence of a boy who usually does work of this kind for him. The laws and the usages of America in respect of for- eigners, reflect the highest honour on the country. The stranger is not only protected in his person and property on his first arrival, but it is in his power to become an elector, and eligible to situations of honour and trust. He may depend on being here esteemed according to his behaviour and usefulness, without regard to his former condition or his former country. I have in various in- stances seen men enjoying the benefits of the free institu- tions of the United States, and the respect of their neigh- bours, who, a few years ago, invaded [269] the country 142 Henry P. Coburn was adjutant-general of Indiana from December, 1819, to December, 1822. A native of Massachusetts and graduate of Harvard Col- lege (1812), he came to Indiana in 1816 and practised law in the southern part of the state until 1820. In that year he was made clerk of the supreme court, holding the position until his death in 1852. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 295 with British arms in their hands. You may contrast this liberality with the Alien laws, and with the spirit of the corporations and privileged orders of your country, and ask yourself, Who are the semi-barbarians? Who are the "half-civilized people ? n The comforts that I enjoy here are perhaps somewhat greater than you suppose. I board with a respectable family, the members of which do every thing in their power to render my situation agreeable. In our small town and neighbourhood, there is a considerable number of accomplished people, amongst whom I have much of that sort of enjoyment which consists in hearing elegant conversation, and the reciprocation of those little civilities and services that give a relish to social life. The situa- tion of this place at an important point on the river, and on the line of an extensive communication by land, renders it a very considerable thoroughfare. This of itself, has been the means of making me extensively acquainted amongst the public characters of the State, and many interesting individuals from other parts. We have abundance of newspapers, some of which are judi- ciously conducted, and in which many excellent original articles are to be found; and all of them devote a part of their columns to the public occurrences of Britain. I occasionally read some of the latest publications from your country, and have frequent opportunities of seeing the Reviews, and Literary and Scientific Magazines. At short intervals, I have commonly letters from Scotland, and frequently communications from friends in different parts of this country. In short, were I discontented with the society amongst which I live, I might occasion a sus- picion that I am unworthy of mixing in it. 296 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 [270] LETTER XXIII Passage from the Falls of the Ohio to Cincinnati — Drought — Banks — Militia — Journey to Lake Erie — Reading — Shakertown — Lebanon — Little Miami — Wood Pigeons — Insects — Clarkville and Leesburg — Greenfield and Oldtown — Large quantities of Grain raised by Individuals — The Great Sciota — Pickaway Plains — Wet Prairies — New Lancaster — Lebanon — Newark — Mount Vernon — Owl Creek — Clear Fork — Roads — Mansfield — Trucksville — Summit of the Country between the Ohio and Lake Erie — Munro — Sickness — The Great Prairie — The for- mer Beach of Lake Erie — Bloomingtown — Bank — Mineral Strata — Portland — Venice — Sickness — — Indians — Tavern Keepers — People. Portland, (Ohio,) Oct. 13, 1820. I left the Falls of the Ohio on the 12th ult. and took my passage in a steam-boat which plies between that place and Cincinnati. — There was no other passing on the Ohio at that time, on account of the lowness of the water. From the difference of time occupied in ascending and descending the river, it appeared that the mean velocity of the stream was reduced to one mile per hour. In several ripples, the deepest part of the channel measured only three feet. The vessel repeatedly ran aground, so that an anchor was put out, and it became necessary that every man on board should work at the capstane. The boat was the same in which I ascended the river in June last, and of which I noted down the dimensions in my letter of the 26th of that month. [271] She is here con- sidered to be a small vessel, and the best for navigating the river in dry seasons. On computing the velocity of the water wheel, I found that the boat would move at the rate of 8J miles per hour, supposing that it proceeded in 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 297 the manner of wheel carriages, and that the actual velocity through still water was seven miles per hour. This gives a very good measure of the vis inertia of the fluid. We did not arrive at Cincinnati till the 15th, being obliged to stop during the night, as it was impossible to keep in the proper channel in the dark, at the present low stage of the river. The vessel returned downward nearly empty, to be laid up till the next rise of water. The hills in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati, which were beautifully verdant in June last, are now withered to whiteness, by the scorching drought. 143 The trade of Cincinnati continues to be dull. Two of the banks have given up business altogether, and two others are struggling for existence. Their money is 33J and 60 per cent under par. One of these establishments has been in the habit of giving in exchange for its own notes, those of another paper shop at a considerable dis- tance; when the paper so obtained is presented at the second, it is taken in exchange for the money of a third bank still farther off. At the third, the bills are ex- changed for the money of the first. This is in reality making banks li equally solvent with their neighbouring institutions." Some of the stockholders, [272] who are themselves the debtors 0} the banks, procure a part of the money, which is either much depreciated, or entirely sunk to satisfy for the same debts. Females of a certain description are not to be seen in the streets of Cincinnati after dusk. This is attributed, not so much to police regulations, as to the boys, whose practice it is to chase them. 143 Dr. Drake, who is a native of the western country, after noticing the effects of a dry summer, adds, ' ' But, fortunately, such extraordinary droughts occur too seldom, and are too limited in their extent, to be regarded as any great calamity." — Picture of Cincinnati, p. 105. — Flint. 298 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 On the 23d, a regiment of Militia was reviewed. The state of discipline is so bad that every movement is accom- panied with disorder. The time occupied in training is short, and the practice of privates electing their own officers is not considered conducive to subordination, especially in time of peace. They are, however, armed with good rifles, and are formidable troops in the woods. The last number of the Edinburgh Review, Peter's Letters to his Kinsfolk, 144 Blackwood's Magazine, and the Monastery, 145 are the current works of the day. When lately at Louisville, I found an acquaintance reading Ivanhoe ; during my stay with him, which was only about an hour, two persons applied for a loan of the book. He told me that there were seven or eight copies of it in that town, and that they are no sooner read by one than they are lent to another. Two copies of the Monastery had just then arrived in town, and were, if possible, more in request than the former. The natives of Britain, in America, have the satisfaction of mixing with a people who are descended from the same ancestors, who speak the same language, who are instructed by the same stan- dard books, who are amused by the same novels, and who sing the same songs. In giving you details of my journey from the Ohio to Lake Erie, I shall confine myself almost [273] entirely to a transcript of notes taken by the way. 146 144 A series of lively sketches of Edinburgh society by John Gibson Lockhart ( 1 794-1854), published in Blackwood? s Magazine during 1819. — Ed. 145 Scott's novel, The Monastery \ was published in 1820. — Ed. 146 In order to view the country, Flint pursued a singular route from Cincin- nati to Lake Erie. His course was through Warren, Clinton, Highland, Ross, Pickaway, Fairfield, Licking, Knox, Richland, Huron, and Erie counties. The principal points touched were Lebanon in Warren, Lancaster in Fairfield, Newark in Licking, and Mansfield in Richland. He reached Lake Erie at the present Huron, at the mouth of Huron River. His roundabout tour brought him through some of the very best portions of the State. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 299 On the 26th of September I left Cincinnati. My travel- ling equipment consisted of a light waggon, drawn by a Yankee mare. The animal was spirited, but at the same time docile, and obedient to the rein; and the roads, though rough in some parts, and covered with dust, were such as are in this country called good. The atmosphere was clear, without a single speck of cloud, and the tem- perature of the air agreeable. I got forward with a degree of ease and good spirit, that might well become a ride undertaken for pleasure. Reading is a small town with a good tavern, twelve miles north-east of Cincinnati. 147 I lodged for the night with a tavern-keeper, who has, within these four years past, cleared a good farm on which he lives. He is a penetrating and intelligent old man. Without being told, he was able to discover my native country, and attempted to make himself agreeable by dilating on the histories of Wallace and Bruce. His son, who is arrived at manhood, asked if Wallace was an American ? The father is a native of the eastern country, and has had better opportunities of being educated than the son seems to have met with in this newly settled country. Closely adjoining to this place is Union or Shakertown, 148 the settlement of a remarkable society called Shakers, I suppose from dancing forming a principal part of their HT Reading was first settled in 1794 by Abraham Voorhees, who laid out the town four years later. It was for some time called Voorheestown, but re- christened out of compliment to some of the early settlers who came from Read- ing, Pennsylvania. — Ed. 148 The Kentucky religious awakening of 1800, spreading into southern Ohio, caused such a state of religious excitement that the Shakers of New Lebanon, New York, thinking it a profitable field in which to plant their doctrines, sent three missionaries to Warren County in 1805. They found many converts among the excited people, and Union Village, or Shakerstown, soon sprang up. They were called Shakers not so much from the dancing, as from the handshak- ing, head shaking, and other bodily contortions in their religious exercises. — Ed 300 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 worship. They have established a community of goods, and prohibited marriage and the propagation of the species. Although this restriction is in general religiously observed, it is said that several of their daughters have been carried off from the settlement by young men of the neighbourhood. In the Session of 1810-1811, the legislature found it proper to interfere, in causing the society to provide for some families [274] that were deserted by their husbands. The people in the vicinity admit that the Shakers are characterized by sobriety, a peaceable disposition, (and, what appears to be surpris- ing,) industry, frugality, and cleanliness. Sept. 27. Passed through Lebanon, 149 a small town composed partly of brick houses. It is, however, the seat of justice for a county, and has a newspaper printing- office, and a bank. The number of two and four horse waggons which pass along the road would indicate much business; but a deduction is to be made for the smallness of the loads. Farmers were engaged in carrying home their crops of maize, or in piling them up in the fields, and some in preparing the ground for sowing their wheat. The orchards were nearly cleared of their fruit. Cyder is here made in considerable quantities. The country between the two rivers Miamis is said to be one of the most fertile in America, but the part of it that I have seen is not the best watered. Many of the people have to draw water from wells for themselves and their cattle, happy at the present time, if the springs do not fail altogether. Crossed the little Miami, a name that is now perfectly *• The four proprietors, who were also the only settlers on the site of Lebanon, laid out the town in 1802. Becoming the county seat of Warren County, it thereafter grew rapidly, and in 1809 was chosen as the site for Miami Univer- sity.— Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 301 descriptive of the river. 150 The bottom land is rich, and the banks on both sides steep. On the top of the east bank the remains of an ancient fortification stand. The wall, which is about fourteen feet high, is overgrown with large timber, and incloses a considerable space of land. Much of the road in the east side of the little Miami is over wet clay land. Logs are split, and laid side by side across the road, as a way for carriages. The jolting over these is disagreeable, and the progress slow. At this dry season, the soil would serve the purpose better, but would be impassable in wet weather. [275] The woods abound in pigeons, a small species of fowls which migrates to the southward in winter, and return to the north in spring. Their numbers are so immense that they sometimes move in clouds, upwards of a mile in length. At the time when they are passing, the people have good sport in shooting them, as one flock frequently succeeds another before the gun can be re- loaded. The parts of the woods where they roost, are distinguished by the trees having their branches broken off, and many of them deadened by the pressure of the myriads that alight upon them. The number of grasshoppers is amazingly great. A swarm of them rises from amongst the grass or weeds, at every footstep of the pedestrian. Some large species are winged, and can fly to the distance of twelve, and even twenty yards. This remark applies to every part of Amer- ica which I have seen. The country abounds with a multitude of insects, much diversified in species, colours, and habits. Wasps and hornets are extremely numer- 160 The road crossed the Little Miami near the border line between Warren and Green counties. — Ed. 302 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ous. I have not suffered from mosquitoes in the degree that I had been taught to expect. Sept. 28. Clarkville and Leesburg are two very small towns. Passed a young man who was lame, I believe, from a rheumatic affection, a complaint that is pretty frequent in this country, from the quick transitions in the temperature of the climate. This traveller told me that he was on his return from New Orleans, having gone down the river in the capacity of boatman, and that he had travelled most of the way homeward on foot. On my suggesting that he should remain with a farmer for a few days, where he might work at the harvest, a kind of labour which does not require much locomotion, he told me that he had applied to several, but they refused to give him employment. [276] The road between Leesburg and Munro is over high ridges and deep ravines. The country here (High- land County) is allowed to be healthy, but a dense popu- lation must be accumulated before the natural obstacles to communication can be surmounted. The bridges here, as in other new settlements, are nothing more than two long trees thrown over the stream, about eight feet apart, with split or round pieces of timber laid across these, side by side. In the case of a deep ravine, the road is directly down the bank to the end of the bridge, Sept. 29. Greenfield and Old town are two small towns. The former has made considerable progress of late. The woods were assuming the colours of autumn. This change was accelerated by slight frosts which occurred on two mornings, about the time of the equinox. The sugar-maple, the dogwood, and the beech, were the most forward. I remained for the night with an old tavern-keeper, who 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 303 had been a soldier in the revolutionary service. He is proprietor of a good farm, which is occupied by his son-in- law, who, last year, raised nine hundred bushels, includ- ing corn and wheat, by his individual exertions. I had previously heard of a negro from Kentucky, who, in the same year, settled on a prairie near Vincennes, and there raised a thousand bushels of corn. The last of these quantities may be assumed as a full maximum of the pro- duce that may be raised by one man, even where great fertility of soil, industry, and health, conspire together. But as this quantity of grain would now sell for only two hundred and fifty dollars, without deducting the expense of carrying it to market, or allowing any thing for the provender of a horse, while the wages of a labourer may be [277] now fairly stated at three hundred and fifty dol- lars for a year, it is evident that farmers, from such a small return, cannot hire the labour of other people. On the 30th I crossed the Great Sciota, a river that is great indeed in times of wet weather; but the ford, which is at the head of a stream, was not then more than eight or nine inches deep. The river, notwithstanding, retains a grandeur that is not unbecoming its name. The stream is broad, covering nearly the whole of its capacious bed. The water is limpid, and the banks are covered with a growth of stupendous sycamores and other large trees. Pickaway Plains consist of flat land. 151 The clear part is a prairie, entirely destitute of trees, and is about seven miles long and five broad. To a European, who has been upwards of two years immersed in the woods, such a clear space is truly exhilarating. It was while proceeding along a fine smooth road, at a brisk trot, that I suddenly dis- *■ For the Pickaway Plains, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 143. — Ed. 304 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 covered I was making my entree into the plain. — The air was still, clear, and admitted of the most distinct vision, so that I could see a distant blue ridge of high land, which I supposed to be in Kentucky. After having advanced about half a mile into the open space, I observed a long cloud of dust over the road. The fore part of this train seemed at my horse's feet, and under my vehicle, and the other end of it was in that part of the wood from whence I emerged. Possibly a native of the American woods might be more surprised on his first entering a prairie than I was, but I have a doubt whether his sensations would be as pleasant as mine were. The soil is of a dark coloured earth, apparently mixed with a large portion of vegetable matter, and [278] lies on a gravelly subsoil. When extremely rich lands are spoken of in this part of the country, they are apt to be compared with Pickaway. The inhabitants of the plain are occasionally visited by agues. I believe that I have not heretofore mentioned any par- ticulars respecting the dust of the roads of this country. The clothes of travellers are frequently covered with it, and it passes through the smallest crevices, into trunks and packing boxes. This may probably arise from the heat of the climate, which dries the mud very much, or from the fine division of the earthy particles, and perhaps from the abundance of vegetable matters intermixed. I lodged at a tavern about two miles west of New Lan- caster. The landlord removed from Pennsylvania to this neighbourhood about twenty years ago. The site of the house in which he now lives, is the third that he has cleared of the timber with his own hands, since his arrival. His buildings and farm, by their neatness, bespeak his in- dustry, and he seems to enjoy the comforts of affluence as 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 305 the reward of his labours. In the neighbourhood of this place are some high ridges of a coarse-grained sand-stone, with some small pine trees on their summits. The lower lands are rich. The landlord showed me a pumpkin that weighed a hundred and sixty pounds. Monday ', Oct. 2. On the morning of this day, and on the afternoon of the 30th ultimo, I passed through several low prairies of small size; the soil is of a black vegetable matter, that is somewhat bituminous, and appears to be imperfectly decomposed. Some chinks of two or three inches wide, that are to be seen in the surface, show, that at other seasons of the year, this ground is wet. Except for the heat of the climate, it is probable that [279] these prairies would have been mosses similar to the peat earth of Europe. New Lancaster is a county town, 152 with a court-house and a bank. The situation is pleasant, and the town contains some good brick houses. Neatness and com- fort are apparent there. Lebanon is a small place, situated on high ground. It is entirely built of wood. Several persons affirmed to me, that the ague is not prevalent in this place. Newark 153 is a county town of a pleasant aspect. Some parts of the lands adjoining are moist, and naturally fitted for being converted into meadows. Good iron is made in the neighbourhood, and sold at four cents per pound. There was a young man in the tavern there, who said, that he had come directly from Philadelphia, and that he had seen a considerable number of families on •P For the early history of Lancaster, see Cuming's Tour, volume iv of our series, note 145. — Ed. m Newark was settled and laid out in 1802 by William Schenck, of Newark, New Jersey. In the fall of that year a considerable colony came from Penn- sylrania. It was incorporated in 1826. — Ed. 306 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 their journey to the eastward, after finding themselves dissatisfied with their prospects in the western country. On the evening of the 2d and on the 3d, much rain fell. On the 4th, I resumed my journey. — I observed much land well adapted for meadow, and a few small patches actually occupied in that way; and noticed that the ground in general yields more grass, and has preserved its verdure better than that in the lower parts of the State. I halted for the night at Mount Vernon, 154 which is another county town, and the place of the Owl Creek Bank, well known among the paper manufactories of this country. Owl Creek is one of the head waters of Muskingum River, and is a copious stream of clear water. It is crossed by a large wooden bridge, and turns an extensive mill, which is in sight of the road. [280] On the 5th, I travelled over some high, rugged land, where chesnut trees are numerous and of a large size. The presence of this kind of timber, is understood to be an indication of the poverty of the soil on which it grows; but it is valued principally on account of its resist- ing the effects of the weather for a great length of time. In the afternoon a heavy shower of rain fell, which obliged me to stop at a tavern at the Clear Fork, which is only fifteen miles from Mount Vernon. The Clear Fork is another head branch of Muskingum River, and has a plentiful run of water. It seems that the river Ohio derives the greater part of its waters, in dry seasons, from the springs which rise in the high lands at a considerable distance from it. I have, at various times, observed that most of the streams that originate 1M Mt. Vernon, the seat of Knox County, was laid out in 1805, and named after Washington's home on the Potomac, its early settlers having come from Virginia and Maryland. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 307 in the lower country are either entirely dried up, or are very small runs in summer, while the tributaries in the higher parts of the country run copiously. This fact is corrob- orated by the present superior verdure of the high coun- try, in showing, that the quantity of rain is greater than in the lower parts. A lower temperature, and the inter- mixture of breezes from the valleys of the Mississippi and the Ohio, with those from the lakes and the river St. Lawrence, are to be inferred as the most probable causes. Oct. 6. Between the Clear Fork and Mansfield (9J miles) the ground is hilly, and part of it, like that travelled over on the 5th, abounding with chesnut trees. Except for the strength and spirit of my horse, I had not suc- ceeded in carrying my baggage over this rugged part of the country. The roads are not laid out under proper supervision, but pass over steep land, or round the fences of inclosed fields, at the will of interested persons. [281] They calculate badly, however, who disregard utility. Mansfield is another county town, 155 and is favoured as the seat of a bank. I lodged at Trucksville, a new town, consisting of about half a dozen of frame-houses. The lands of the neighbourhood appeared excellent. On the 7th, I passed through a part of the country with a surface which is gently undulated. The little in- tervales seem to be nearly horizontal in their bottoms. This, with the woods that obstruct the view everywhere, imposes the aspect of a low flat country, an illusion that I could only dispel by recollecting that throughout my journey I had travelled in a direction contrary to the motion of the rivers, and by observing that the waters 186 James Hedges, a government surveyor, laid out the town of Mansfield in 1808, naming it in honor of Colonel Jared Mansfield, surveyor-general of the United States. In 1820 it contained about 250 inhabitants. — Ed. 308 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 run in different directions, part towards the Ohio, and part towards Lake Erie. It might be difficult to form a conception of any topo- graphical inquiry more interesting to the State of Ohio, and some other parts, than the structure and conditions of the high grounds which separate between the waters of the river Ohio and Lake Erie. It remains to be ascer- tained, whether a sufficient quantity of water can be found for supplying the summit level of the contemplated canal between the river and the lake, and through what point in the ridge the lowest, or otherwise most eligible line may be drawn. When the first of these questions is solved, it will be easy to say whether New Orleans or New York will be the future emporium of this part of the coun- try. I believe the only specific information on the sub- ject, that has been published, is in a paper by Governor Brown, 156 of the State of Ohio, who has repeatedly recom- mended that the legislature should pass an act for causing the necessary surveys to be made, [282] but without effect. It is curious that it was the legislature of the same State (Ohio) that, a few years ago, made an overture to the Con- gress, for ascertaining whether it is practicable to make a canal between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. The country between New Lancaster and the heads of the waters that fall into Lake Erie (about a hundred miles) is high, fertile, well watered, and comparatively exempt from the endemical sicknesses which annoy the inhabitants of lower lands. The country over which I travelled on the 8th, is inter- mixed with flat lands. The great holes and ruts in the roads showed that they are occasionally drenched with 18e Ethan Allen Brown was elected governor of Ohio in 1818. He resigned his office to accept a seat in the United States senate. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 309 water. If my olfactory organs did not deceive me, the air was somewhat tainted. At Munro, a small branch of Huron River, I had some difficulty in procuring breakfast. All the family in the tavern were either sick, or so much emaciated by recent disease, that they were scarcely able to do any thing. Every person in the town, old and young, had been attacked, two individuals being only excepted. For two years past, the place has been more unhealthy than for- merly; and the people believe that the change has been occasioned by the erection of a mill-dam in the creek. The surmise is probably just, as the dam is now dry, and both the mud and vegetable matters are exposed to the heat and consequent decomposition, evolving hydrogen gas, which is understood to be deleterious. At the distance of about fourteen miles from Portland, the road enters the great prairie that stretches along the south side of the lake. It is covered with coarse grass, of a luxuriant growth, and an immense variety of weeds. Some slight eminences are wooded, and resemble islands or [283] peninsulas in the plain. In passing along, I per- ceived openings which seemed to extend to the distance of twelve or fourteen miles. For several miles the road is over a ridge, sixty or eighty feet in breadth, about eight feet higher than the plain, and five or six feet higher than the flat ground immedi- ately to the southward. This ridge or step runs in a wind- ing line, forming a convexity towards the lake, where it crosses the higher parts of the prairie, and recedes tb the southward, forming a concave curve round hollows in the ground, thus preserving a horizontal position. A doubt of this having been once the margin of the lake can scarcely be entertained. 3 1 o Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 The ridge just mentioned is dry and of a gravelly soil. It is preferred by the settlers for the sites of their houses. Some patches of the prairie are inclosed by worm fences, and produce large crops of maize. Cattle range in the prairies, and are larger and fatter than those reared by the Ohio River. A few stacks of coarse natural hay stand on the ground that produced them. Bloomingtown is a town consisting of about ten houses, and is situated on a sandy eminence in the edge of the prairie : — a small place, but deserving of notice from its abortive Bank. A company was formed, plates engraved, and the bank notes brought to the spot. At the time when this happened, the people had just become jealous of unchartered banks. The company applied to the Legislature of the State for a charter, which was refused. The bankers not venturing to sign the pictures, but un- willing to lose the expense of manufacturing them, sold them by auction. They were afterwards subscribed by a fictitious president and cashier, and fraudulently put into circulation. [284] Near the lake the shell limestone appears. This seems to be the base on which the strata of the higher country rests. The higher country, near Pittsburg, the Muskingum, and Sciota rivers, the Silver-Creek hills, and the high land, over which I have recently come, has strata of sandstone, slate-clay, bituminous shale, and, in various places, coal. Portland is a town situated on the shore of the inden- ture in the south-western extremity of Lake Erie, called Sandusky Bay. 157 It is only three years since it was founded, and contains thirty dwelling houses, four ware- 157 For the early history of Portland, see Buttrick's Voyages, volume viii of our series, note 34. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint \r Letters from America 311 houses, and has four temporary wharfs. At present the trade is in salt, brought from Onondago in New York State, and in imported goods. There is a boat at one of the wharfs, which carries ten and a half tons; it was built in Connecticut, and was carried by land over several portages in the way; and I have been told that there is a vessel of fifty feet keel on the lake, that was carried over the same obstructions, which lie between Hudson River and Lake Erie. A steam-boat which sails between Detroit and Buffalo touches at this place. Portland has had a share of the sickness of the season, a number of persons being now confined to bed, and many meagre convalescents are to be seen walking about the street. In addition to the fevers and the ague, so preva- lent, some have been afflicted by an influenza, and are wearing shades over their faces on account of sore eyes. Venice is another new town, which stands about three miles farther west the bay. It has more houses than Portland, but has now only one family in it, a mortal sick- ness having carried off a considerable part of the popula- tion, which caused the survivors to desert the place. The bay no doubt contributes [285] to disease, as the water is shallow, and out of the course of the principal current of the lake, and produces grasses and confervae that are washed ashore in times of wind, and emit a disagreeable effluvia. Although I have been in the country possessed by the Indians during the two last days of my journey, I did not happen to see any of these people by the way. Since coming to Portland, I have seen a few of them in town. One party had brought for sale a few pots of honey, which they had taken out of hollow trees, and some mats, fabri- cated from dyed rushes, which were beautifully divided 312 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 into compartments of different colours. Most of them were clothed with a piece of blanket wrapped round them, and with leather mocasins, or shoes, on their feet, and the habiliments of others approached very near to the form of clothing worn by civilized people. Some of the men are sprightly and well formed in their persons, displaying an energy and frankness in their countenances which indi- cate the absence of suspicion and fear. My journey has been, on the whole, more pleasant than I could have anticipated. The principal obstructions in the way were the stumps and roots of trees, which obliged me to drive with much caution, and often restricted my horse to a walk. At taverns I sometimes found that the landlord was from home, and that no hostler was kept, and found it necessary to feed and water my horse, and to yoke or unyoke as occasion required; but every landlord that I met with acted in an obliging manner, and of some of them I conceived the most favourable opinion. In the last hundred and fifty miles which I travelled, I met with few travellers, but several [286] of these few were well dressed and polite men. I have also seen some ele- gant ladies by the way. Indeed, I have often seen among the inhabitants of the log-houses of America, females with dresses composed of the muslins of Britain, the silks of India, and the crapes of China. During the journey just detailed, I must confess that I never saw a people more exclusively devoted to agriculture, and proportionally fewer idle men lounging in taverns, than I did in the more populous parts of the country. The most disagreeable quality that I discovered, was the inquisitive dispositions of some of them. — "What are you loaded with?" was reiterated almost every day; and, "Where are you going? Where are you come from ? Are you pedling ? Is it goods 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 313 or plunder that you have got ?" 158 were also questions asked. In justice to them, I must say, that they do not seem to be sensible of the indecorum of such conduct; and I believe that when similar interrogations are put to them, they answer without hesitation. [287] LETTER XXIV 15 * Passage on Lake Erie — Presque Isle — Buffalo — The Falls of Niagara — Kingston — Youngstown — Newark — Passage on Lake Ontario — Scotch Settlement in Upper Canada — Descend the River St. Lawrence — Thousand Islands — Brokeville — Prescott — Ogdens- burgh — Rapids — St. Regis — Lake St. Francis — Falls — Cotu-du-Lac — The Cedar Falls and Village — Lake St. Louis — La Chine — Cachnewaga — Mon- treal — Passage down the St. Lawrence — Sorel — Lake St. Peter's — Trois Rivieres — Settlements in Lower Canada — The Falls of Richelieu — Quebec — Heights of Abraham — Lorete — Indians — Remarks on the People — Lumber Trade — Government — Climate. Quebec, Nov. 9, 1820. Since writing my last letter to you I have removed from the head of Lake Erie to this place — a very considerable distance ; but as I proceeded most of the way by water, I had very little communication with the shore, and very scanty means of making myself acquainted with the country. 160 168 Plunder is a cant term used in the western country, signifying travelling baggage. — Flint. 159 For notes on the following persons and places mentioned in this chapter, see Croghan's Journals, volume i of our series: Presque Isle, note 62. J. Long's Travels, volume ii of our series: Fort Niagara, note 19; Ogdensburg, note 15; Cedars, note 27; La Chine, note 34; Caughnawaga, note 9; Trois Rivieres, note 8; Lorette, note 92. — Ed. 160 Flint's route from Ohio to Quebec was by way of Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Kingston, and Montreal. — Ed. 314 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 On the 14th I went on board the American steam-boat Walk-in-the-Water y a fine vessel of 330 tons burden, with two masts, and rigged, for taking advantage of the winds in the manner of sea-craft. 161 The interior of this vessel is elegant, and the entertainment is luxurious. There were twelve cabin passengers of genteel appearance and polite manners, and about an equal number of persons in the steerage; the whole indicating a degree [288] of inter- course and refinement which I did not expect to see on Lake Erie. The southern bank only was in sight. It is low, and many cleared patches were to be seen at intervals amongst the woods. Probably the time is not far distant when the anticipation of Campbell will be realized, ' • There shall the flocks on thymy pasture stray, And shepherds dance at summer's op'ning day; Each wand'ring genius of the lonely glen Shall start to view the glittering haunts of men." There are numerous islands in the lake, which are all covered with a growth of timber, and were then beauti- fully variegated with the tints of the season. These are the islands in which rattle-snakes and other reptiles are said to be so numerous that it is dangerous to land on them. During the afternoon, and a part of the night, we experienced the most severe gale that our mariners had felt on the lake. The swell rose to a great height, and occasionally immersed one of the wheels deeply, while the other was almost entirely out of the water, causing the vessel to heave and flounce very disagreeably. Most of the passengers were affected by the same kind of sickness, similar to that which prevails at sea. 181 This first steamboat on Lake Erie was launched at Black Rock (now Buffalo), May 28, 1818. It was named from a Wyandot chieftain, and in 182 1 was lost in a storm. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 315 Nov. 15. We continued in sight of the United States side of the lake, but without enjoying a single peep of the Canadian shore. The summit of the country between the lake and the Ohio was in sight. It is high land, but what may be called a flat ridge of the most evenly contour, without any pointed hills or conspicuous prominences. Land birds perched on the rigging. The water appeared to be green, showing that its depth is considerable. In some parts it has been sounded and found to be thirty-five fathoms deep. Altogether, [289] the lake presents much of the phenomena of the ocean. Erie, formerly called Presque Isle, is a small town. Before this place, the British squadron captured during the late war, is sunk for preservation. Some of our people who went ashore here, were told that a schooner with eight men was lost in the storm of the preceding night. The numbers of water-fowl seen in the lake is truly astonishing. These migrate to the southward in the winter. Late on the evening of the 16th, we anchored off Buffalo, and on the morning of the 1 7th dropped two miles down the river, to Black Rock. Buffalo is a thriving town in the State of New York. Coaches pass from thence to Albany, which is on the route to the city of New York. When the great canal between Hudson River and New York is completed, Buffalo must become a place of considerable importance. 182 The New York canal is a work not only interesting to a large portion of the United States, but also to Upper Canada. Already ninety miles of the line is completed and in operation, and the continuance of the present exer- m The Erie Canal was begun at Rome, New York, July 4, 1817, being com- pleted in eight years. — Ed. 3 1 6 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 tions must in a short time finish the whole. Should the government of Britain continue to neglect the improve- ment of the inland navigation of Canada, and persist in excluding the colonies from the advantages of a free trade, and give their grain a nominal preference in the British market, while that market is in reality shut against it, a new interest must arise in the upper province. England may still give Canadian lands gratis, and garrison the frontier posts with an idle soldiery, but she cannot shut the eyes of her subjects against the facilities to be derived [290] from an uninterrupted navigation to the port of New York, which is free to the flags of all nations, and open to the sea at every season of the year. Opposite to Buffalo is Port Erie, on the Canadian side of the river, — pleasant situation, but apparently without any thing like the bustle that animates the southern shore. At Black Rock, the river Niagara is about a mile in breadth, and runs at the rate of eight knots per minute, and its greatest depth is said to be about ten fathoms. 183 The lake, forming an extensive reservoir, greatly equalizes the discharge of water, particularly as this river is without the floods that characterize most other streams. One of the passengers on board the steam-boat, a Cap- tain of the United States army, on his way to Fort Niagara, agreed to travel along with me. We hired a two-horse waggon to carry ourselves and baggage. The actual port- age to the falls of Niagara is only seven miles; but as we found that there was no boat in readiness to sail from Black Rock, we resolved to proceed the whole way by land, which is thirty-four miles. The gentleman with whom I 1W Morse has stated the average depth at this place (the ferry) to be twenty- five feet. According to him, its average rapidity from thence to Chipeway is six miles an hour, and that at the ferry it is much greater. — Flint. Comment by Ed. Jedidiah Morse, American Gazetteer (Boston, 1797). 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 317 travelled was on his return from Green Bay, an inlet of Lake Michigan, where he had gone with some soldiers who were banished to that place. Green Bay is a place of exile, so far removed from the other settlements of the United States, that culprits have it not in their power to escape from thence. Our journey down the southern bank of the river was extremely pleasant. The banks are low [291] and verdant to the water's edge, and the margin, in most parts, forming fine curves, smooth as if finished by art. The islands are also low and covered with luxuriant timber. It is the ex- tent of water-prospect, bounded in every direction by woods, that constitutes the grandeur of this part. At the lower extremity of Grand Island, the sheet of water seems to be about three miles broad. The soil is good, and yields better pasturage and hay than the lands of the more southern parts of the continent. A happy compensation for the severity of the northern winter. On approaching within two or three miles of the falls, a cloud of spray is to be seen rising 600 or 700 feet into the air. At that distance, the noise of the waters has some- thing like the effect of a strong wind among the trees of a forest. Immediately above the precipice, there is an island beau- tifully wooded, with a mixture of white cedars and other ever-green trees, which divides the river into two unequal parts, leaving the principal channel toward the Canadian shore. The head of this island, and the beach of the United States side of the river, are connected by a rude wooden bridge, which must have been constructed with great difficulty, as the bottom is of rock, and the water runs with great velocity. On both sides of the island the declivity is great, and the furious stream is broken at 31 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 intervals by falling over shelving rocks. The division of the rapids toward the Canadian side, would have been remarked as highly interesting, had it been situated some- where else than immediately adjoining to the great falls of Niagara. The stranger, on arriving at the point of land close at the head of the cataract, and that juts over [292] the tre- mendous abyss, is in a moment arrested by the awful grandeur of the scene, or if he is at all inclined to motion, it is to recede from the precipice. The sight of an immense volume of water poured over a perpendicular cliff, situated almost under his feet, 1 " into the chasm below, and the thundering noise, are calculated to excite a degree of astonishment that borders on dismay. The part of the river which passes between the island and the south-easterly shore, falls over the abrupt edge of a precipice that has a few small gaps in it; the water dis- charged is necessarily deep in these, and forms green col- umns, which descend twenty or thirty feet before they assume the whiteness that is uniform over other parts of the sheet that here spends its fury on a heap of large blocks which have been undermined and detached from the rocks above. A vast body of dense spray deflected from those large masses of stone, flies off horizontally, and in every other direction, and completely obscures the bottom of the fall, and a considerable portion of the chasm adjoining. The chasm, from the falls downward, is bounded on both sides by perpendicular cliffs. After descending seventy or eighty feet by a wooden stair, the way to the water's edge is down a steep footslope, amongst large m The height of the division of the falls that lies between the island and the south-east shore has been formerly estimated at 160 feet. I have been told that a measurement made last summer has determined it to be 162 feet. — Flint. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 319 blocks of stone, and small trees of white cedar which line the banks, and add much to the beauty of this grand ravine. A small skiff is kept for the convenience of those who would have a view of the falls from below. Sailing here sometimes exposes the traveller to [293] have his clothes wet from the falling vapours, the waters being so much agitated; but as the commotion is nothing more than the heavings of an eddy that comes into contact with the stream, no danger whatever is to be apprehended, and I am apt to believe that few visitors will forego the pleasure of crossing at this place. It was not till I got afloat on the river that I obtained a comprehensive view of the whole cataract. The part be- tween the island and the north-western shore, forms a hollow curve that is called the Horse-shoe Bend. It is in the inmost recess of this bay that the greatest quantity of water is precipitated, and from this part the most deep- toned sounds seemed to proceed. The great body of water which dashes from the summit of the Horse-shoe Bend, is evidenced by the majestic curve that the liquid forms, where it rolls over the top of the rock, and by the green colour that it retains till the vast column is concealed by the waters which rise in revulsion from the vortex below. It is also over the Horse-shoe Bend, that the vapour as- cends in the thickest cloud, and to the greatest height. On the margin of the river, I observed some logs of timber, that had been put ashore by the eddy. They were large round trees, which appeared to have been cut across at the lengths of twelve and sixteen feet, such as are cut into boards at saw-mills. Several of them were split asunder throughout their whole length. Others of them had some of the annular layers of the timber peeled off, 320 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 and the remaining surfaces bruised and marked, as if they had been beat all over with a weighty hammer or a blunt axe. The ends of the logs were round, somewhat resem- bling a parabolic figure. [294] The ascent of the northern bank, is performed by climbing the steep foot-slope by a rugged path that winds amongst large stones, and ultimately surmounting the cliff by a wooden stair; — a fatiguing task, but one which is amply repaid by the commanding situation of the high ground on the Canadian side. As the cascade runs ob- liquely across the river, and exposes the concavity to the northward, the spectator is here, as it were, placed a little beyond the focus of the grandest amphitheatre. It is also in his power to approach close to the extremity of the pitch, and overlook the smoking Horse-shoe Bend, and peer down on the awful but indescribable convulsions that agi- tate the foaming bay. The falls of Niagara are much visited by strangers, as during our short stay there we met with several persons who were examining them. There is a large tavern on each side of the river, and in the album kept at one of these, I observed that upwards of a hundred folio pages had been written with names within five months. Immediately before reaching Kingston, we descended a steep ridge or step in the country. Opposite to this place is Queenstown, on the Canadian side of the river. Both these towns are at the lower end of the portage of Niagara. The chasm through which the river runs from the falls to this place, renders it highly probable that the cataract once poured itself over the ridge just noticed, and that it has subsequently made its progress upward to its present place. It would be interesting to ascertain the relative levels of the ridge above Kingston, and the old 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 321 beach of Lake Erie, that has been observed in the great prairie. Late in the evening we stopped at Youngstown, a small village near the confluence of the river [295] Niagara with Lake Ontario. At this place I heard the noise of the falls, which were eighteen miles distant. On the 1 8th, I crossed the river to the town of Niagara, now called Newark. On the United States side of the mouth of the river stands the old fort Niagara; on the Canadian side is Fort George, of later erection. The 18th was a day of much parade there; the governor of the upper province being engaged in reviewing the troops of the gar- rison. The banks of the river Niagara are, at its mouth, about sixty feet high, and the ground in the neighbourhood forms a delightful plain, but the people are said to be much afflicted with ague, a complaint common to both sides of the river. In the afternoon I went on board a large steam-boat, called Fronteniac, which then sailed for Kingston. Toward evening we saw the spray over the falls of Niagara. It did not then appear to be a blue smoky-coloured, and almost transparent vapour, as when I was near it on the 1 8th, but a dark-coloured dense cloud. This fact agrees well with the opinion that asserts the vesicular formation of clouds, and with the observation familiar to every one, that clouds appear to be dark-coloured and opaque at a distance, and that when they actually approach and fall in the form of rain, their dark colour and opacity disap- pear. The waters of Lake Ontario indicate great depth by their dark green colour. It is reported that a line of 350 fathoms has been let down in various parts without find- 322 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ing a bottom. 185 The islands are low, and covered with small timber, and the shores rocky. Salmon abound in the lake, and in some of its tributary streams. [296] 19th. Arrived at Kingston, which is situated at the north-eastern extremity of Lake Ontario. This place contains about 3000 people, and is the largest town in Upper Canada. It was here that the warships which navigated the lake during the late war were built, and several vessels of a larger size than any on the ocean, are still on the stocks. An island before Kingston, appears to be strongly fortified. To the north of Kingston, and towards the Utawas [Ottawa] or Grand River, is the new town of Perth, and the settlement of a considerable body of Scots who emi- grated in 181 5. One of these people, who was on board the steam-boat, told me that the settlers had succeeded well; and a gentleman who lives in their neighbourhood assured me, that they have already attained to a more comfortable style of living than the French in the older settlements of the lower province. On the 20th I sailed in a steam-boat for Prescott, which is seventy miles down the river. In immediate continu- ation with the eastern extremity is an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, which is called the lake of the thousand islands, from the great number of small islands it con- tains. These are rocky, and covered over with small pine trees, forming a romantic labyrinth, in which it is not always easy to discriminate between islands and the main land. Markings on the rocks show, that the waters rise occasionally to the height of four feet, but these slight floods must be occasioned by winds, rather than the imme- diate effect of rainy weather. 165 Lake Ontario averages six hundred feet in depth. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 323 Brokeville is a new town on the north side of the river. The name is in honour of the British General Broke who fell in the late war. 166 The houses [297] are chiefly of stone, and have a neat appearance. In consequence of the settlements forming to the northward, Brokeville is of some importance as a landing place, and in its trade. Prescott is a considerable town, with a small fort on the Canadian side of the river. It is a curious fact, that the thriving town of Ogdensburg, on the United States shore, is directly opposite, and though within the range of British cannon, is without defensive works, and without a garrison. There being a number of rapids in the river between Prescott and Montreal, the intermediate navigation is performed by small flat-bottomed vessels, called Durham boats, which carry about three hundred barrels of flour each. These boats have no other decks than narrow foot- ways round the gunwales, leaving the middle space open, where the cargo is piled up. On the 21st I left Prescott in a Durham boat, 187 in which there were three passengers besides myself. Two of these were Americans from Arkansaw river, on their way for Quebec, a journey of 2100 miles, and the other an English- man, who had gone out to see the lands in Upper Canada, and was on his return to England, where he intends to give up a small farm that he holds in lease, and remove his family to the back woods near Kingston. From hear- 1M For an account of General Isaac Brock, see Buttrick's Voyages, volume viii of our series, note 6. — Ed. 1,7 Durham boats were heavy freight craft built along the lines of an Indian canoe. Their designer (about 1750) was Robert Durham, manager and engi- neer of the Durham furnace, Bucks County, Pennsylvania. The ordinary Dur- ham boat was sixty feet long, eight feet wide, and two feet deep. When laden with fifteen tons, it drew twenty inches of water. — Ed. 3 24 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 ing the swearing and rude conversation of the boat's crew, I concluded that they were persons of the lowest character. The waters of the St. Lawrence appear green, on account of the great depth of the river, but when taken up in a vessel, they seem perfectly transparent. The islands be- low Prescott are of a rich soil, and, like the banks on both sides of the river, are low, and covered with grass almost to the margin of the water. We passed over four rapids on [298] the 21st, viz. the Rifts le Galete, the Flat Rifts, the Long Falls, and the Maligne Rifts. All these run with great velocity; and at the lower end of each, where the stream rushes into waters that run on a lesser declivity, a great swell or heaving motion is produced. We stopped for the night at Cornwall, a considerable village on the Canadian shore. I was there told the river opposite to that place is so deep, that when the people attempted to drag it in search of the body of a man who had been drowned, the bottom was not felt. On the 2 2d we passed St. Regis, an Indian town, which is built with stone. Below this place, the boundary line which separates the United States from Canada leaves the river. Lake St. Francis is an expansion of the river that is about thirty miles long, and from four to six miles broad. The banks are low, and the declivity of the neigh- bouring lands is very moderate. To the south-east, a number of high mountains in New York State are to be seen. Their distance from the river seems to be about thirty miles, and they are covered with trees to their summits. On the northern bank of Lake St. Francis, is a settle- ment of Canadian French. It extends to the length of seven or eight miles, and is only about one mile broad. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 325 The farms are said to consist of one hundred acres each, and as they extend from the lake back to the woods, they are long narrow stripes of land, each having the dwelling- house, barn, &c. almost close to the bank. The houses are white-washed, and externally very neat. Their being almost completely uniform in size and appearance, might cause any stranger to believe that their owners are nearly on a parity in wealth. At the east end of the lake are the falls of St. Francis. These are furious rapids, and a canal [299] for avoid- ing them has been cut at the village Cotu du Lac, but as the cut is not deep enough, the work is of very little use. Of the falls of St. Lawrence river, it may be remarked generally, that as there are no high floods, and as the banks are low, there can be no great difficulty in improv- ing the navigation. There is a very small Fort at the Co- tu du Lac, which is garrisoned by about half a dozen of soldiers. On the 23d we took in a pilot, who conducted us over the Cedar Rifts, the Thicket Falls, and Le Trou Falls. The former of these rapids runs with tremendous fury. The two latter canals are cut, but, like that at the Cotu du Lac, they are too shallow to admit loaded boats. The Cedar village is most delightfully situated on the north side of the river. The Utawas, or Grand river, forms the division line between Upper and Lower Canada, and falls into the St. Lawrence by two mouths, one above and the other below the island of Montreal. The great magnitude of the former river is manifested by the dark colour of its waters, which are sufficient to give a tinge to the Lake St. Louis, in which the two rivers meet. On this lake a new steam- boat has lately begun to ply. 326 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 La Chine is a small town on the Island Montreal, and at the head of the falls of St. Louis. In consequence of this interruption to the navigation, La Chine is at the head of a portage over which a great portion of the pro- duce and goods that pass upward of Montreal are carried. The inhabitants of this place are Canadian French, many of whom are employed as carters between the landing place and the city, which is about seven miles distant. Cachnewaga, on the opposite side of [300] the river, is an Indian town, built of stone, and of a neat appear- ance. On the 24th I proceeded by land to Montreal. The soil in that part is good, and well adapted to pasturage. I observed some farms that are occupied by Scotsmen, and cultivated in a neater style than any thing of the kind that I have ever seen in America. Several iron ploughs which were made at Uddingstone, on the Clyde, were lying by the side of the road. The horses are small, but elegantly formed and hardy. The language in most common use here is the French. People of every possible shade of colour, between the French complexion and the copper colour of the Indian, are to be heard conversing in that tongue. The suburbs of Montreal are composed of narrow dirty streets. The houses are of stone, plastered over with lime. A few private houses, and the court-house and jail, are built of hewed stone. The roofs of many of the houses are covered with small plates of tinned iron, which preserves its metallic lustre well, and produces a disagree- able glare during sunshine. In the end of the market place, is a monument in memory of Lord Nelson. It is a Doric column, with a plaster bust of the hero on the top, and some naval figures in relief upon the pedestal. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 327 This compound substance is already yielding to the weather, and probably will not long resist the effects of this rigorous climate. To the north of the town, there is a hill covered with timber, which contributes much toward giving the place a picturesque appearance. In the neighbourhood there are a few neat villas, and many luxuriant orchards. In the streets people are to be seen driving small carts drawn by dogs; [301] they are usually loaded with sticks, ashes, and other light articles. Mont- real has a great trade, being the emporium of the upper country, and the residence of the principal agents of the North West Company. The port is accessible to large ships from the ocean, but is not a tenable harbour in the winter, on account of its being exposed to the breaking up of the ice. Montreal is the seat of justice for the upper district of Lower Canada. The court is composed of a chief justice, and three puisne judges. There is in the city, a barrack occupied by a small body of troops. A square in the form of a terrace, called the Place d 'Arms ; for the exercising of soldiers; a college, and a convent, where a considerable number of nuns are kept. The clergy of the Roman Catholic religion retain the tithes of the island. Early on the morning of the 25 th I sailed in a steam- boat for Quebec. There are now twelve large vessels of this kind which ply between Montreal and that place, and one that crosses between La Prairie and Montreal. The steam-boats, on their passage between Montreal and Quebec, touch at the town of Sorel, at the mouth of Sorel river. Sorel is a small town, and its principal busi- ness is ship-building. It was formerly called Fort William Henry, known as the place of the earliest settlement of Europeans in North America, and as the scene of the 328 Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 cruel massacre committed by the Indians under the French General Montcalm, in 1757. 168 The Lake St. Peter's is another expansion of the river, about twenty miles long and fifteen broad. The great lakes in the upper country, and the smaller ones in the course of the St. Lawrence, have the effect of equalizing the stream, and prevent [302] inundations, which are very injurious to the neighbourhood of most large rivers. In the afternoon, the vessel was anchored in conse- quence of a contrary wind, which was accompanied with a fall of snow, the first that had occurred during the season. The town Trots Rivieres, (Three Rivers,) then in our sight, is a large place, and is the seat of justice for one of the three districts of Lower Canada. Most of the inhabi- tants here, as in the other parts of the lower province, are Canadian French. The houses are covered with tinned iron. On both sides of the river, a row of farm houses, placed at very short intervals, stretches along almost without interruption. These houses are white- washed, and have throughout a degree of similarity in size and appearance which I have not observed in any other part except the banks of the St. Lawrence. These houses are white- washed, and have each a barn and other inferior houses attached. As the grain is housed, and the barns seem to be of no great dimensions, it is a proof that the crops are certainly small. In viewing these ranges of farming establishments obliquely, the whole has the aspect of a continued village on both sides, with churches at very 188 Flint seems here to have obtained his facts from a typical guide-book. Fort William Henry, the scene of the massacre, stood at the head of Lake George ; Montcalm captured it in 1757, and spread terror to Albany, and even as far as New York. Many of the prisoners of war were massacred by Indians, over whom the French claimed to have had little or no control. — Ed. 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 329 short distances from one another. Were it not for seeing the uncleared woods, which are in most parts only about a mile from the river, and for recollecting that the number of white people in Lower Canada was, a few years ago, estimated at only 200,000, I should have been induced to believe that this is a populous country. On the 26th we proceeded downwards with a fair wind. The tide reaches to the distance of about sixty miles above Quebec. We descended the Falls of Richlieu, by the joint action of wind, tide, steam, and the stream, at the rate of fifteen [303] miles an hour. These falls are furious rapids at low stages of the tide, but in times of high water they are covered up and smooth. The banks are of a dark coloured schistous substance, very steep, and about a hundred feet high, and the soil inferior to that farther up the river. On approaching Quebec, I was shown the steep recess of the rock through which General Wolf conducted his army on the night previous to his memorable victory. — This narrow defile retains the name of Wolfe's Cove. The first sight of Quebec that is obtained in descending the river, is imposing; the shipping viewed in the direction of the line that it forms along the wharfs, has something like the appearance of a thick forest of deadened pine- trees, and the dark-coloured rock, which rises almost from the water's edge, towers high in air. An angle of the fort that stands on the edge of the precipice, and a stone tower and a signal-post that occupy a still higher summit in the rear, are the most prominent objects. On advan- cing farther, it is discovered that the low ground below widens to the westward, and is occupied by a part of the lower town, and a considerable extent of the circumvalla- tion that occupies the top of the cleft, and incloses the 33° Early Western Travels [Vol. 9 castle of St. Louis, and some other high buildings. The situation and aspect of the castle of St. Louis, (the resi- dence of the governor,) reminds me of the barracks on the west side of the castle of Edinburgh. Indeed the whole of the northern front of Quebec has a general re- semblance to the ancient Scottish fortress. Quebec stands on a point of land formed by the junc- tion of the rivers St. Lawrence, and is divided by the cliffs into two parts, the Lower and the Upper town. The Lower town, adjoining to the wharfs, is narrow and dirty, and the wharfs are [304] disconnected from one another by the intervention of houses. The Upper town is inclosed within the fort, and is much better built and more clean than the lower division of the city. The whole of the works occupy ground of the most commanding descrip- tion, and are well furnished with the apparatus necessary for defence. On the Heights of Abraham, the place is shown where Wolfe fell, and, till lately, the granite block remained on which the hero expired. There are some fragments still to be found, lying at a small wooden house adjoining, which will probably be soon broken into smaller pieces and carried off by strangers. To the west of Quebec is Lorete, an Indian town, which is built of stone; and the neighbouring fields seem to be well cultivated. At Point Levi, on the opposite bank of the St. Lawrence, a tribe of Indians encamp occasionally for the purpose of trading. It is curious that the abo- rigines remain so long amongst the thickest settlements in Lower Canada, while in other parts of the continent they disappear before a very thin population of whites. This must have been occasioned by the French, who have at all times ingratiated themselves with the natives, and 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 331 even intermarried with them, and by the Indians becoming proselytes to the Roman Catholic religion. The Canadian French are universally acknowledged to be true Roman Catholics, strict in their observance of holidays, submissive to the exactions of their priesthood, and the loyal subjects of Britain. They seem to retain the depressed characters of a conquered people. Their bow is low, and apparently obsequious, and they are usually ready to make out of the way of any one who walks rapidly along the streets. Many of [305] them are dirty and coarsely clothed, and instead of buttoning their coats, they tie them with a sort of sash that is wrapped round their middle. At meals each produces his pocket knife, the same, perhaps, with which he cuts his tobacco, and spits on the blade, and then rubs it on his clothes previous to eating. They are slovenly agriculturists, and use the most wretched implements, and yoke their oxen by the horns. A gentleman told me that he lately asked one of them, why they did not yoke these animals by the shoulders as other people do ? The other replied — be- cause the strength of the head would be lost. It is not uncommon to see the Canadian coming into market with only one or two bushels of wheat. Here, as at Montreal, the cruel practice of causing dogs to draw carts, prevails. On seeing a young man riding in one of these little ve- hicles, and whipping the docile creature till it lay down and turned up its feet, I was much shocked at the conduct of the wretch; and, though you may not altogether approve of the principle, I felt considerable satisfaction from the circumstance, that the profane imprecations which he with great fluency uttered, were not pronounced in the English language. Timber is the principal article exported here. The 3 3 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. o period for which Canadian timber is exempted from pay- ing duty in Britain, is about to expire, and a fear is entertained that a tax may be imposed by parliament at their next session. The subject excites much interest at present, and in the event of a timber tax being enacted, it may operate as a test for Canadian loyalty. The government of the Canadas consists of a governor, a legislative council, and a house of assembly in each province. This organization is vested with the power of making such laws as are not [306] contrary to the acts of the British Parliament. The legislative council is summoned by the governor, under the authority of the king, and its members are appointed for life. The assem- bly is elected by freeholders, whose qualification is possess- ing landed property to the yearly value of forty shillings or upwards; or possessing a dwelling house and lot of ground in towns to the yearly value of five pounds, or pay- ing for one year, at least a rent of ten pounds. These assemblies continue for four years at most, but can be dissolved before the termination of the full period. Que- bec is the seat of justice for the lower district of the lower province. The court consists of a chief justice and three puisne judges, and public business is conducted by a solicitor-general and an attorney-general. The criminal laws are the same as those of England, but in civil cases the old coutume de Paris is retained. The existence of French laws in the lower province is said to be repulsive to people from Britain, and is probably one of the causes that determines many of them on settling in Upper Can- ada. The climate of Canada varies between extremes of heat and cold. A temperature of 96 of Fahrenheit's scale has been observed at this place in summer, and it is 1818-1820] Flint's Letters from America 333 believed that mercury has been frozen by the cold in winter. I am not able to judge of the inconvenience which attends wintering here, but the inhabitants look forward to that season as the gayest of the year. Most of the labours without doors at this season are suspended, and the people sally forth in their sledges on excursions of pleasure, or in visiting their friends. The deep and long continued snows in this country protect the crops of wheat from being injured by the frosts, and enable the Canadians to drag the [307] largest trees to the rivers, a work that would otherwise be difficult in the woods, where there are no good roads. Just now the ground is covered with snow, and the cold, which increases daily, shows that winter is about to commence in earnest. At least three- fourths of the ships that were here a week ago have sailed down the river, and the seamen who remain in port are all in a bustle, preparing for going to sea. Probably by a few days hence there will not be a ship left. Important Historical Publications OF The Arthur H. 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