10 / cC "V- " oUsJrf^lj ^ r / / THE EARTH AND MAN: LECTURES ON COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY RELATION TO THE HISTORY OF MANKIND. r..VI K rBOF. OF PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AMD HISTORY, AT NEUCHATEL, BWITZBRLAMD TRANSLATED FROM TBS FRENCH, BY C. C. FELTON, PROFESSOR IN HARVARD UNIVERSITY. Our Earth is a star among the stars ; and should not we, who are on it, prepa. by it foi the contemplation of the Universe and its Author? CARL RITTBR SIXTEENTH THOUSAND. BOSTON: G U L D AND LINCOLN NEW YORK: SHELDON AND COMPANY. CINCINNATI : QEO. 8. BLANCHARP. 1871. fintorncl according to Act of Congress, in the yew 1S-19, By GOULD, KENDALL f the phys- ical and moral world. The scientific life of the author opened under the full radiance of the light they spread around them, and it is with a sentiment of filial piety that he delights to recall this connection, and to render to them his public homage. Notwithstanding the praiseworthy care the publishers of this volume have taken to provide it with the maps and drawings necessary to understand the text, the reader will perhaps desire more. He will find them in the Physical Atlas of Berghaus, the most excellent, and almost the only work of the kind, or in the English publications based on it, by Johnston of Edinburgh, by A. Petermann of London, and others. The explanatory pages give the information necessary for the plates that accompany these sheets. For their execution on stone, the author deems himself happy in having been able to avail himself of the talents of an artist so able and obliging as M. Sonrel. Besides Prof. Felton, who has read all the proof-sheets, the author returns his sincere acknowledgments to Professors Agas- siz, Peirce, and Gray, who have had the goodness to -revise por tions of them. Few subjects seem more worthy to occupy thoughtful minds, than the contemplation of the grand harmonies of nature and history. The spectacle of the good and the beautiful in nature, reflecting everywhere the idea of the Creator, calms and refreshes the soul. The view of the hand of Providence, guiding the chariot of human destinies, reassures and strengthens our faith. May these unpretending sheets, launched upon the sea of publicity, reach those who feel the need of both, and by them be kincllj received. < 1 **BRiDsi MASS., 3/aj 1, 1849 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION THE marked favor with which the public, here and abroad,* have received this essay, imposed on the author the duty of care- fully revising it. But the time of its first appearance is so recent, that no important alterations are to be made. Except a few addi- tions of facts quite recently acquired for science, particularly in the paragraph relating to the sub-marine relief of the basin of the oceans, the work has remained, in substance, what it was. Not so with the translation. The translator, exercising a severer crit- icism than the reader upon his own work, has carefully revised, improved, and corrected it ; and the author seizes this occasion to repeat his thanks for this fresh endeavor to render these sheets more worthy of the public approbation. If there is any reward worthy of desire to him who communi- cates his thoughts to his fellow-men, it is that of meeting, hi the midst of throngs preoccupied with so many diversified cares, an echo and sympathy. This gratification has not been wanting to the author, and he recalls with gratitude the numerous testimonies he has received from so many quarters. He finds in these mani- festations an encouragement to continue his work, and to prepare a second volume, on the Historical Development of Humanity, which he considers as the necessary complement to the present. CAMBRIDGE, July, 1850. * This volume has been republished in London, by Bentley, and an editior. fn French is about to appear at Paris. 'A mutilated edition, called "revised,'- has also been published by E. Gover, Sen., London, in which many passages, amounting to over thirty pages of the original edition, and essential to the con- tinuity of the argument, or containing conclusions, have been suppressed ; additions have been inserted expressing views not advanced by the author ; alterations have been made, in exceedingly bad English, all without the least intimation in the preface. Against the two first, the author protests ; agains! 4ie last,- the translator. EXPLANATION OF THE PLAIES AND FIGURES PLATE I. PHYSICAL MAP OF THE WORLD. THIS map, in Mercator's projection, is intended to enable the eye tc seize at a glance the great physical features of the surface of the globe. To this end, each particular is indicated by a different color. The color of the ocean forms a ground which clearly defines and brings out the characteristic forms of the continents. The bands of white lines which cross them indicate the course of the marine currents, according to the Physical Map of Berghaus. The arrows mark their direction. In the continents, three colors distinguish the three principal forms of relief from each other. The green tint marks the low lands ; the white, the more elevated parts and the table lands ; the brown, the systems of mountains, the borders of the table lands, and the slopes in general. It is easy thus to form by a single glance an idea of the general features of relief of the different countries of the earth. The dotted lines which cross the map are, beginning at the top, the Arctic circle, the tropic of Cancer, and the tropic of Capricorn. The entirely straight line is the Equator. The latitudes are marked in the margin by a line for every 15. The longitudes in the same way, by 15 East and West from the meridian of Paris. The two winding lines in the northern half of the map are the isothermal lines of zero Centigrade or 32 Fahrenheit, and of 15 Centigrade or 59 Fahrenheit. All the places situated on these lines, having the same mean annual temjrera- lure, set in a clear light the difference of climate between the opposite toasts of the continents, while referring it to the true causes. Eveiy setter has been omitted from this little map, which is intended to be a physical picture, and to speak to the eye. The scale, moreover, scarcely allowed their insertion, and the great features which it repre wuls are so well known that tV-re is no need of naming them. [0 EXPLANATION. PLATES II. AND III. (pp. 60, 61.) These plates contain a series of ideal profile: intended to illastra* the general laws of relief of the continents. 1 ne profiles comprise sach a transverse zone rather than a simple line, which often would have answered but imperfectly the proposed end. The relation of the heights to the horizdntal distances would have to be magnified about one hundred times. The numbers placed in the margin, indicate the heights in thousands of feet. The letters placed at the top of the verti cal dotted lines, are the initials of the names of the principal points contained in the tables ; when the same initial is repeated, the second in the order of the table is marked thus : (). The profiles of the massive and entire parts of the continents, comprising the plains and table lands, are distinguished from the heights which surround them, or the mountain chains, by a particular line, by different hatchings, and deeper shading. The peaks, which are merely indicated above the base line, without being connected, are either mountains situated outside of the zone, followed by the profile, as the Carpathian and Mont-Blanc, in Europe, Plate II. profile 5 ; or volcanic peaks, isolated, not affecting the general relief, as the Erdschich, in Asia Minor, Plate fl. profile 4 ; the Ararat, in Armenia, Plate III. profile 1. Plate II. wofile 3 ; the St. Elias, in North America. Plate II. comprises 7 profiles across the three principal continents of he Old "World, in the direction from north to south. In profile 1, Extern Asia, and profile 6, Africa, the line of horizontal distances >eing too considerable to be taken into the frame, the profiles are inter- rupted to indicate that one portion of the horizontal line has been suppr ssed. In the profile of Eastern Asia the portion omitted is almos equal to the less section. In Africa it is much larger still. Plate III. comprises the profiles of the New World, from east to west. No. 2, passing along the line of the Antilles, is necessarily broken. But the gradual increase of the reliefs and their disposition prove tint this line ought to be considered in reality continuous, although at some points it is covered by the waters of the ocean. The profiles are arranged in the plates in such a manner as to show, at once, in the vertical line, the increase of the reliefs fiom west tc east in the Old World, and from nTrth to south in the New World The text itself mikes further ex pla atior vnnectssary. EXPLANATION 11 PLATE IV. MAI OF THE DISTRIBUTION CF RAIN. This map, tate*. from the Physical Atlas of Berghaus, shcirs the distribution of rain on the surface of the globe. The deeper the co,or, the greater is the quantity of rain-water indicated ; the deserts are left in white. North and south of the tropics, which are marked by dotted Lines, are the regions of continuous, but not abundant rains. Between the tropics, the region of periodical and copious rains. A little north of the Equator a deeper shaded strip indicates the region of calms, whsre daily thunder storms cause almost throughout the year the faL of a considerable quantity of water. PLATES V. AND VI., Intended to illustrate the law of the degeneration of the human type in leaving the central region of "Western Asia, comprise 16 portraits all drawn from nature, and taken from the plates of the " Anima Kingdom " of Cuvier, wherever a different source is not indicated. PLATE V. First Series. From the central regions of "Western Asia to the extremity of Africa, through Arabia and the eastern coast. No. 1. A Circassian, belonging to the suite of the Persian Ambas- sador ; drawn from the life, at Paris, in 1823, by M. A. Colin. No. 2. An Arab of Algiers, of the Mozabite tribe ; drawn from life, under the direction of Mr. Milne Edwards, by A. Lordon. No. 3. A negro of Mozambique, on the south-east coast of Africa , drawn from life, in Brazil, by Rugendas. No. 4. Joshua Makoniane, an old Bassouto warrior, a convert tj Christianity, drawn from life by Mr. Maeder, of the French Mission U South Africa. Journal des Missions Evangeliques de Paris, Vol. XX. Second Series. From Europe to tropical Africa, by the western coast. No. 5. Portrait of Captain Cook, painted by Dauce, in the gallery jf the Naval Hospital at Greenwich. Geographical Almanac of Berghaus. No. 6. A Cabyle of Flissa, in Algeria ; drawn from life by A Lordon. No. 7. Senegal Chief, after an unpublished drawing by an officei ia the expedition of Captain Laplace. No. 8. A Negro of Congo ; drawn from nature by Rugendas, Voyag* Pittoresque au BresL. PLATE VI. First Series. No. 1. Mongolian type portrait of one of the Siamese twins see U, Europe in 1830, after i drawing made from nature, at Paris. 12 EXPLANATION. No. 2. Malay, belonging to the group of the Kout. usoff Smolensky from a plate in the work of Choris, Voyage du Rurick. No. 3. New Holland. Portrait of Onrou-Mare, a warrior of the tribe of the Gwea-Gul, from the Atlas du Voyage aux Torres Australes. No. 4. A woman of Van Diemen, from 1' Atlas de 1' Astrolabe. Second Series. America, from the sources of the Missouri to Terra del Fuego ; and the Polar variety. No. 5. Oto Indian, portrait taken from the Travels of Prince Mat hnilian of Neuwied. ND. 6. Coroado Indian, from the banks of the Rio Xipoto, one of the tributaries of the Rio Pomba, in tropical South America, after a portrait published by Spix and Martius. No. 7. An inhabitant of Terra del Fuego ; Univers Pittoresque. No. 8. Inhabitant of the Aleutian Islands, after Choris ; Voyage of Kotzebue. Fig. 1. page 43. Land Hemisphere, and Water Hemisphere. Fig. 2. page 106. Europe at the Silurian Epoch. Fig. 3. page 108. America at the Coal Epoch. Fig. 4. page 111. Europe at the Tertiary Epoch. These three last maps, intended to show the gradual increase of the dry lands, do not so much indicate the real contours of the lands exist- ing at those epochs, this would be impossible, as the portions which have not since been covered by the waters of the ocean. The white portions are the only dry land. All the portions in ruled hues are under water; but the existing contours of the continents are repre- sented by means of a lighter shade, as a point of comparison. The maps Fig. 2, and Fig. 4, have been constructed after the geologicq.1 maps of Elie de Beaumont, (in Beant geologic,) Boue, and Dechen ; the map Fig. 3, after the geological map of the United States, by Mr, James Hall, completed by that of Sir Charles Lyell and the geological map of the world, by Boue. CONTENTS. LECTURE T Subject of the coirse What should be understood by Chjograjh.; Definition of Physical Geography The life of the globe Impor- tance of the geographical forms of contour and relief, and of theii relative situation The Earth as the theatre of human societies Different parts performed by the continents in history Asia, Europe, America Inquiry into the analogies of the general forms of the continents 19 LECTURE II. Recapitulation Vertical dimensions or forms of relief Difficul- ties presented by their study Usefulness of profiles Great influence of differences of height Elevations in mass, and linear elevations Importance of the former Labors of Humboldt and Ritter on this subject Examination of the general features of relief of the conti- nents - A great common law embracing them all. . 40 *2 j 4 CONTENTS. LECTURE III. Distribution of the table lands, the mountains, and the plains .a die different continents ; the Old World that of plateaus, the New World that of plains The basin of the oceans j this inquiry completes the study of the plastic forms of the earth's crust Division and char- acteristics of the oceans ; their contours and their depth Comparison ol the latter with the mean elevation of the continents Conclusions Necessity of considering the physiology of the continental fcnns Point of view which should be taken Law of the development of life. ,'v:- 73 LECTURE IV. Recapitulation Is the law of development applicable to the whole globe, considered as an individual ? Origin of the Earth, according to the hypotheses of Laplace and Herschell Gradual formation of tht continents Europe at the Silurian epoch North America at tht Carboniferous epoch Character of inferiority of the organized beings which correspond to these ancient formations Europe at the Tertiary epoch Greater diversity and perfection of the organized beings Distinction of the three epochs ; the insular, the maritime, and the continental The formula of development the same for the entire globe and for the organized beings Consequences The law of differences and the law of contrasts The three grand terrestrial contrasts 10 LECTURE V. The North-east or Continental hemisphere, and the South-west or Oceanic hemisphere Land and water Differences in the forms cf their surfaces Continental climate and sea climate Their different influences upon the vegetation and organized beings The oceanic the inferior element ; the terrestrial element the superior Blending of the two natures Transportation of the waters of the ocean into the continents The atmosphere the mediator between them. . US CONTENTS. 15 LECTURE VI. Ths study of the distribution of the rains supposes that of the rinds Difference 01 temperature the principal cause of the winds Theory of the general winds The winds of the tropical regions Trade winds of the Pacific Ocean Trade winds of the Atlantic The monsoons of the Indian seas The winds of the temperate regions Two general currents; the return trade wind, or equatorial *ind, and the polar currents The conflicts of the two, and the variable winds Lateral displacement of the currents, and their influ- ence upon the temperature, the productions of the soil, and commerce The law of the rotation of the winds The atmospheric water felling back into rain Circumstances favorable to the precipitation .of vapors The rains of the tropical zone The rains in the region of the monsoons Annual quantity of the rain-water under the tropics Distribution and annual quantity of the rain in the temperate regions 132 LECTURE Vli. Modifications of the general laws of distribution of the rains Decrease of the quantity of rain waters and of rainy days, from the sea-board towards the inlands Numerous exceptions, and their causes Influence of the mountains and the table lands in the twc worlds Distribution of rain in South America ; in North America ; in Africa; in Europe; in Asia; in Australia Special hygrometrical character of each continent Difference between the Old and the New World, corresponding to the nature of their relief Mixture of the continental and the oceanic element Influence on organize* oeings - Superiority of the zone of contact, or the maritime zone. *.6(J 1 6 CONTENTS LECTURE VIII- The marine consents The motion of the seas due to other causei than that of the continental waters Various causes of the marine currents Differences of temperature the principal, acting indirectly ly the winds, directly by the unequal density of the waters Coinci- dence between the great atmospheric currents and the marine currents System of general currents The Equatorial current and the Polar currents The currents of the Pacific Ocean ; of the Indian Ocean ; of the Atlantic Ocean Contrast of the Old World and the New Disposition of their continental masses Consequences The Old World the Continental; the New the Oceanic The first essentially temperate, the second tropical Special character of the New World Its structure more simple Abundance of its waters Vegetation predominates on the Animal World Incomplete development of the higher animals Influence on the indigenous man Conclu- sions -.-... 186 LECTURE IX. Geographical characteristics of the Old World The Continent of Asia-Europe Comparison of its structure with that of America The continental climate prevailing in the Old World Consequences Vegetation less abundant Preponderance of the animal world The Old Wo^d the country of the higher and historical races Reciprocal action of the two worlds by means of man Establish- ment of the man of the Old World in the New Historical America compared vith Europe Alliance of the two worlds ; solution of the ecntrast . 2W CONTENTS. 17 LECTURE X. Contrast of the three continents of the North and the three conti nents of the South Physical characteristics of the two groups ; the Corner more articulated, more consolidated, more similar; the latter more entire, more isolated, more different These differences and analogies reproduced in the vegetation and the animal world The three continents of the North temperate ; the three of the South t -epical Superiority of the tropical climate in nature Gradual increase of life, of the variety and improvement of the types of organ- ized beings, in proportion to the warmth, from the poles to the equa- torial regions Man alone forms an exception Law of the dis- tribution of the human races Geographical centre of mankind marked by the race of the highest perfection Gradual degeneracy of the human type towards the southern extremities of the continents The geographical distribution of the races of man and the animals lounded upon a different principle Advantage of the temperate climate for the improvement of man. ' .""'' . . . 240 LECTURE XI. The continents of the North considered as the theatre of history Asia-Europe ; contrast of the North and South ; its influence in nistory; conflict of the barbarous nations of the North with the civiized nations of the South Contrast of the East and West Eastern Asia a continent by itself and complete ; its nature ; the Mongolian race belongs peculiarly to it ; character of its civilization - Superiority of the Hindoo civilization ; reason why these nations have remained stationary Western Asia and Europe; the country of the .rnly historical races Western Asia ; physical description ; its historical character : Europe the best organized for the development of man and of societies ; America future to which it is destined by its physical nature. 272 2* 18 CONTENTS. LECTURE XII. Geographical march of history Asia the cradle of civilization Common character of the primitive nations Powerful influence >f nature The human race in its infancy lives under authority, whicc becomes slavery Civilization passes to Europe Greece ; period of youth ; emancipation, and intellectual and moral development ; action on the East and West ; the Greek the teacher of the world Rome ; her work political and social Inability of the Ancient World to attain the end of humanity Coming of Christ ; his doctrines new in a historical point of view The Germanic Christian world begins their application Civilization passes to the North, and embraces all Europe ; its different phases Europe owes it to the rest of the world Discovery of America Universal inroad of the civilized nations Social work begun at the same time America must finish H The people of the future ; by what signs recognized Conclu- sions Foreseen solution of the contrast of the three Northern conti- nents and the three Southern Duties of the privileged races towards the Inferior A few words upon the method pursued Science and Wth. . . . 2<5 THE EAETH AND MAN. LECTURE I. Subject of the course What should be understood by Geography Definition of Physical Geography The life of the globe Impor- tance of the geographical forms of contour and relief, and of their relative situation The Earth as the theatre of human societies Different parts performed by the continents in history Asia, Eu- rope, America Inquiry into the analogies of the general forms of the continents. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN : In asking your attention to a few scientific discourses, in a language not your own, I have not disguised from myself that this circumstance is perhaps a source of embarrassment for some of you, as it certainly is for me. In the communion of mind with mind, in the mutual interchange of ideas, the first condition necessary foi establishing between him who speaks and those that hear, the sympathetic harmony which makes its charm, is, that the word shall reach the understanding without obstacle and without effort. In my favor you havf made the sacrifice of your lan- g'lage. I need not tdl you, that, on my part,, I will dc 20 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. all in my power to render that sacrifice less irksome , and I shall always be desirous of giving to those who will do me the favor to ask it, all the explanations which they can require. The subject to which I propose to call your attention, is Comparative Physical Geography, considered in its relations to the history and the destinies of mankind. But the term geography has been applied to such dif- ferent things, the use, the misuse rather to which it htis been subjected, has rendered it so elastic and ill-defined, that, in order to prevent misconception, I must first of ail explain to you what I understand by Geography. If, preserving the etymological sense of the word geography, we should, with many authors, undertake to limit this study to a simple description of the surface of the globe and of the beings which are found there, we must at once renounce the idea of calling it by the name of science, in the lofty sense of this word. To describe, without rising to the causes, or descending to the con- sequences, is no more science, than merely and simply to relate a fact of which one has been a witness. The geographer, who thus understands his study, seems to make as little of geography as the chronicler of history. It would be easy to show that even the power of describing well ought to be denied him ; for if he re- nounces the study of the laws which have presided ovei the creation, over the disposition of the terrestrial indi- viduals in their different orders : if he will take no ac- count of those which have given birth to the phenomena that he wishes to describe, soon, overwhelmed beneath the mass of details, of whose relative value he is igno- INTRODUCTION. r 41 rant, without a guide and without a rule to make a judicnus choice in the midst of this infinite variety of partial observations, he remains incapable of mastering them, of grouping them in such a manner as to bring prominently forward those which must give character to the whole, and thus dooms himself to a barren confusion at least ; happy, if, in place of a faithful picture of na- ture, he does not finally profess to give us, as such 3 the strangest caricature. No ! Geography and I regret here that usage for- bids me to employ the most suitable word, Geology, to designate the general science of which I speak Geog- raphy ought to be something different from a mere description. It should not only describe, it should com- pare, it should interpret, it should rise to the how a,nd the wherefore of the phenomena which it describes. It is not enough for it coldly to anatomize the globe, by merely taking cognizance of the arrangement of the various parts which constitute it. It must endeavor to seize those incessant mutual actions of tho different por- tions of physical nature upon each other, of inorganic nature upon organized beings, upon man in particular, and upon the successive development of human societies, in a word, studying the reciprocal action of all these forces, the perpetua* play of which constitutes what might be called the lif of the globe, it should, if I may venture to say so, inquire into its physiology. To understand it in any other way, is to deprive geography of its vital principle; is to make it a collection of partial, unmean- ing facts j is to faster, upon it forever that character of drvness, for which it has <=o often and so justly been 22 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. reproached. For what is dryness in a science, excep 4 the absence of those principles, of those ideas, of those general results, by whbh well-constituted minds are nurtured ? Physical geography, therefore, ought to be, not only the description of our earth, but the physical science of the globe, or the science of the general phenomena of the present life of the globe, in reference to their connec- tion and their mutual dependence. This is the geography of Humboldt and of Ritter. But I speak of the life of the globe, of the physiology of the great terrestrial forms ! These terms may per- haps seem here to be misapplied. I ask your permission to justify them, for I cannot fina better, to express what appears to me to be the truth. Far from me the idea of attempting to assimilate this general life of the inorganic nature of the globe to the individual life of the plant or the animal, as some unwise philosophers have done. I know well the wide distance which separates inorganic from organized nature. I will even go further than is ordinarily done, and I will say that there is an impassable chasm be- tween the mineral and the plant, between the plant and the animal, an impassable chasm between the animal and the man. But this nature, represented as dead, and contrasted in common language with living- nature, because it has not the same life with the anin.al or the plant, is it then bereft of all life? If it has not life, we must acknowledge that it has at least the appearances of life. Has it not motion in the water '.vhich streams s*icl gushes over the surface of the con- INTRODUCTION. 2-3 linents, or which tosses in the bosom of the seas? in the winds which course with terrible rapidity and sweep the soil that we tread under our feet, covering it with ruins? Has it not its sympathies and antipathies in those mysterious elective affinities of the different molecules of matter which chemistry investigates ? Has it not the powerful attractions of bodies to each other, which govern the motions of the stars scattered in the immensity of space, and keep them in an admirable harmony ? Do we not see, and always with a secret astonishment, the magnetic needle agitated at the ap- proach of a particle of iron, and leaping under the fire of the Northern light ? Place any material body what- soever by the side of another, do they not immediately enter into relations of interchange, of molecular attrac- tion, of electricity, of magnetism ? The disturbance of the equilibrium at one point induces another elsewhere, and the movement is propagated to infinity. And what will it be, if we rise to the contemplation of all the phenomena of this order together, exhibited by a vast country, by an entire continent ? Thus, in inorganic nature likewise, all is acting, all is changing, all is undergoing transformation. Doubt- less this is not the life of the organized being, the life of the animal ; but is not this assemblage of phenomena also a life ? If, taking life in its most simple aspect, we define it as a mutual exchange of relations, we cannot refuse this name to those lively actions and reactions, to that perpetual play of the forces of matter, of which we are every day the witnesses Yes, gentlemen, it is indeed life, but undoubtedly in a very inferior order of things. 24 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. It is life; the thousand voices of nature which make themselves heard around us, and which in so many ways betray that incessant and prodigious activity, proclaim it so loudly that we cannot shut our ears to their language. This general life, this physical and chemical life, be- longs to all matter. It is the basis of the existence of all superior beings, not as the source, but as the condi tion. It is in the plant, it is in the animal ; only here it is subservient to a principle of higher life of a sniritual nature, of a principle of unity, the mysterious force of which, referring all to a centre, modifies it, controls it and organizes it, for the benefit of an individual. Now it is precisely this internal principle of unity belonging to organized nature, which is wanting in in- dividuals of inorganic nature ; and that is the difference. In inorganic nature, the bodies are only simple ag- gregations of parts, homogeneous or heterogeneous, and differing among themselves, the combination of which seems to be accidental. Nevertheless, to say nothing of the law that assigns to each species of mineral a par- ticular form of crystallization, we see that every aggrega- tion, fortuitous in appearance, may constitute a whole, with limits, and a determinate form, which, without having anything of absolute necessity, gives to it, how- ever, the first lineaments of individuality. Such are the various geographical regions, the islands, the peninsulas, the continents ; the Antilles, for example, England, Italy, Asia, Europe, North America. Each of these terrestrial masses, considered as a whole, as an individual, has a particular disposition of its parts, of the forms wliich INTRODUCTION. 25 belong only t it, a situation relatively to the rays of the sun, and with respect to the seas or the neighboring masses, not found identically repeated in any other. All those various causes excite and combine, in a manner infinitely varied, the play of the physical forces inherent in the matter composing them, and secure to each a climate, a vegetation, and animal life; in a word, an assemblage of physical characters and func- tions peculiar to it, and really giving it something of individuality. It is in this sense that we shall speak of the great geographical individuals, that we shall be able to define them, to indicate their characters, to mark their differ- ences ; in a word, to apply to them that comparative study, without which there is no true science. But let us not forget that these individuals have the cause of their existence, not within, like organized beings, but without, in the very circumstances of their aggregation. Hence, gentlemen, the great importance of external form ; the importance of the geographical forms of con- tour, of relief of the terrestrial surface ; of the relations of size, of extent, of relative position. In considering them simply in a geological point of view, it may appear quite accidental that such a plain should or should not have risen from the bosom of the waters ; that such a mountain rises at this place or that ; that such a con- tinent should be cut up into peninsulas, or piled into a compact mass, accompanied by, or deprived of, islands. When, finally, we reflect, that a depression of a few hundred feet, which would make no change in the essential forms of the solid mass of the globe, would 3 26 COMPJI RATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. cause a great part of Asia and of Europe to disappeoi beneath the water of the oceans, and would reduce America to a few large islands, we might be led to the conclusion that the external shape of the continents haf but an inconsiderable importance. But, in physics, neither of these circumstances is unimportant. Simple examples, without further dem- onstration, will be sufficient to set this in a clear light. Is the question of the forms of contour? Nothing characterizes Europe better than the variety of its indentations, of its peninsulas, of its islands. Suppose, for a moment, that beautiful Italy, Greece with its entire Archipelago, were added to the central mass of the continent, and augmented Germany or Russia by the number of square miles they contain ; this change of form would not give us another Germany, but we should have an Italy and a Greece the less. Unite with the body of Europe all its islands and peninsulas into one compact mass, and instead of this continent, so rich in various elements, you will have a New Holland with all its uniformity. Do we look to the forms of relief, of height ? Is it a matter of indifference whether an entire country is lifted into the dry and cold regions of the atmosphere, like the central table land of Asia, or is placed on the level of the ocean 1 See, under the same sky, the warm and fer- tile plains of Hindoostan, adorned with the brilliant vege- tation of the tropics, and the cold and desert plateaus of Upper Tubet ; compare the burning region of Vera Cruz and its fevers, with the lofty plains of Mexico and its uerpetual spring ; the immense forests of the Amazon, INTRODUCTION. 27 v nere vegetation puts forth all its splendors, and the desoiate paramos of the summits of the Andes, and you nave the answer. And the relative position? Do not the three penin- sulas of the south of Europe owe to their position their mild and soft climate, their lovely landscape, their numei- ous relations, and their common life ? Is it not to their situation that the two great peninsulas of India are in- debted for their rich niture, and the conspicuous part one of them, at least, has played in all ages 1 Place them on the north of their continents, Italy and Greece become Scandinavia, and India a Kamtschatka. All Europe is indebted for its temperate atmosphere to its position relatively to the great marine and atmos- pheric currents, and to the vicinity of the burning regions of Africa. Place it at the east of Asia, it will be only a frozen peninsula. Suppose the Andes, transferred to the eastern coast oi South America, hindered the trade wind from bearing the vapors of the ocean into the interior of the continent, and the plains of the Amazon and of Paraguay would be nothing but a desert. In the same manner, if the Rocky Mountains bordeied the eastern coast of North America, and closed against t.ie nations of the East and of Europe the entrance to the rich valley of the Mississippi; or if this immense chain extended from east to west across the northern pait of this continent, and barred the passage of the polar winds, which now rush unobstructed over these vast plains let us say even less : if, preserving all the great pr jsent features of this continent, we suppose only thai 28 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL LEOGKAPHY. the interior plains 'were slightly inclined towards the north, and that the Mississippi emptied into the Frozen Ocean, who does not see that, in these various cases, the relations of warmth and moisture, the climate, in a word and with it the vegetation and the animal world, would undergo the most important modifications, and that these changes of form and of relative position would have an influence greater still upon the destinies of human socie- ties, both in the present and in the future 7 It would be easy to multiply examples ; but I do not wish to anticipate the results that will be brought out by the more exact study of these phenomena, which we are about to undertake. It is enough for me to have opened a view of the important part performed by all these physical circumstances, and the necessity of study- ing them with the most scrupulous care. Let us not, then, despise the study of these outward forms, the influence of which is so evident. They are everything in this class of things. We shall see all the great phenomena of the physical and individual life of the continents, and their functions in the great whole, flowing from the forms and the rela- tive situation of the great terrestrial masses, placed undei the influence of the general forces of nature. But, gentlemen, it is not enough to have seized, in this point of view, entirely physical as yet, the functions of the great masses of the continents. They have others, still more important, which, if rightly understood, ought to be considered as the final end for which they have received the ; r existence. T) understand and appreciate ihem a* their full value, to study them in their true point INTRODUCTION. tti view, we must rise to a higher position. We must elevate ourselves to the moral world to understand the physical world; the physical world has no meaning except by and for the morai world. It is, in fact, the universal law of all that exists in finite, nature, not to have, in itself, either the reason or the entire aim of its own existence. Every being exists, not only for itself, but forms necessarily a portion of a great whole, of which the plan and the idea go infinitely beyond it, and in which it is destined to play a part. Thus inorganic nature exists, not. only for itself, but to serve as a basis for the life of the plant and the animal ; and in their service it performs functions of a kind greatly superior to those assigned to it by the laws which are purely physical and chemical. In the same manner, all nature, our globe, admirable as is its arrange- ment, is not the final end of creation j. but it is the condition of the existence of man. It answers as an instrument by which his education is accomplished, and performs, in his service, functions more exalted and more noble than its own nature, and for which it was made. The superior being then solicits, so to speak, the creation of the inferior being, and associates it to his own func- tions; and it is correct to say that inorganic nature is made for organized nature, and the whole globe for man, an both are made for God, the origin and end of all Ihings. Science thus comprehends the whole of created things, as a vast harmony, all the parts of which are closely con- rected together, and presuppose each other. "Uonsidered in this point of view, the earth, and all it 3* 30 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. contains, the continents in particular, with the whole of their organized nature, all the forms they present, acquire a new meaning and a new aspect. It is as the abode of man, and the theatre for the action of human societies ; it is as the means of the edu- cation of entire humanity, that we shall have to considei them, to appreciate the value of each of the physica. characters which distinguish them. The first glance we throw upon the two-fold domain of nature and of history, is enough to show that the parts performed by the different countries of the globe, in the progress of civilization, present very great differences. The three continents of the South, Australia, Africa, I except Egypt, which scarcely belongs to it, and South America, have not seen the birth of either of the great forms of civilization which have exercised an influence on the progress of the race. Down to times very near our own, the scene of history has hardly passed the boundaries of Asia and of Europe. Upon these two continents of the Ancient World, all the interests of the great drama, in which we are at once actors and spec- tators, is concentrated. Another continent, that of North America, has just been added, and is preparing itself to play a part of the first importance. In the earliest ages of the world, Asia shines alone. It is at once the cradle of civilization, and that of the na- tions which are the only representatives of culture, and wliic'h are carrying it, in our days, to the extremities of the world. Its gigantic proportions, the almost infinite diversity of its soil, its central situation, would render it suitable to be the cor.traent of the germs^ and the root INTRODUCTION. 31 of that immense tree which is now bearing .such beiu- tiful fruits. But Asia has yielded to Europe the sceptre of civili- zation for two thousand years. At the present day, Europe is still unquestionably the first of the civilizing continents. Nowhere on the surface of our planet has the mind of man risen to a sublimer height; nowhere has man known so well how to subdue nature, and to make her the instrument of intelligence. The nations of Europe, to whom we all belong, represent not only lift highest intellectual growth which the human race has attained at any epoch, but they rule already over nearly every part of the globe, and are preparing to push their conquests further still. Here, evidently, is the central point, the focus where all the noblest powers of humanity, in a prodigious activity, are concentrating themselves. This part of the world is, then, the first in power, the luminous side of our planet, the full-grown flower of the terrestrial globe. And yet what a contrast between this moral grandeur and the material greatness of this, the smallest of the continents ! Nothing in it strikes us at the first glance. Europe does not astonish us by those vast areas which the neighboring continent of Asia embraces. Its loftiest mountains scarcely reach to half the height of the Hima- laya and the Andes. Its plateaus, those of Bavaria and Spain, hai-ily deserve the name, by the side of those of Tubet and of Mexico. Its peninsulas, what are they in comparison with India ana Arabia, each of which forms a world by itself? Its seas, the Mediterranean and its gulfs, are far from having the proportions of the vasi 32 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. ocean which bathes the Asiatic peninsulas. N> where those great rivers, those immense streams, that watei the boundless plains of Asia and America, and are their pride. Nowhere those virgin forests, which cover im- mense regions, and make them impenetrable to man; none of those deserts, whose startling and terrible aspect, under other climes, appalls us by their immensity. We see there neither the exuberant fruitfulness of the tropi- cal regions, nor the vast frozen tracts of Siberia ; we feel there neither the overwhelming heats of the equator, nor those extremes of cold which annihilate all organic life. In the productions of organized nature, the same mod- esty still. The plants, the trees, do not attain to the height and growth which astonish us in the regions of the tropics. Neither the flowers, nor the insects, nor the birds, show that variety and brilliancy of colors, which distinguish the corolla of the flowers, and the plumage of the birds, bathed incessantly in the waves of light of the equatorial sun. All the tints are softened and tem- pered down. How reconcile this apparent inferiority with the bril- liant part Europe has performed among the other con- tinents ? This coincidence between the development of humanity in Europe, and the physical nature of this continent, can it have been only an accident? Or may this part of the world have concealed, under such modest appearances, some real superiorities, which have ren- dered it more suitable than any other to play so distin- guished a part in th j history of the world 1 This is a problem, stated by the great facts I am pointing out, the soluticn of which we must seek by study. INTRODUCTION. 33 But a tnird continent, unknown in the history of ancient days. North America, has also entered th<5 list ; and is advancing with giant steps ; for it has not to re- commence the work of civilization Civilization is trans- ported thither ready made. The old nations ^ Europe, exhausted by the difficulties of every kind which oppose their march, turn with hope their wearied eyes towards this new world, for them the land of the future. Men of all languages, of every country, are bringing hither the most various elements, and preparing the germs of the richest growth. The simplicity and the grandeur of its forms, the extent of the spaces over which it rules, seem to have prepared it to become the abode of the most vast and powerful association of men that has ever existed on the surface of the globe. The fertility of its soil ; its position, in the midst of the oceans, between the extremes of Europe and of Asia, facilitating commerce with these two worlds ; the proximity of the rich tropi- cal countries of Central and South America, towards which, as by a natural descent, it is borne by the waters of the majestic Mississippi, and of its thousand tributary streams ; all these advantages seem to promise its labor and activity a prosperity without example. It belongs not to man to read in the future the decrees of Provi- dence. But science may attempt to comprehend the purposes of God, as to the destinies of nations, by exam- ining with care the theatre, seemingly arranged by Him i>r the realization of the new social order, towards which humanity is tending wtf hope. For the order of nature is a foreshadowing of that which is to be. Such, gent emen, are the great problems our study COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. fays before us. We shall endeavor to solve them by studying, first, the characteristic forms of the continents, the influence of these forms on the physical life of the globe; then, the historical development of humanity. We sha.. have succeeded, if we may have shown to you, 1. That the forms, the arrangement, and the distri- bution, of the terrestrial masses on the surface of the globe, accidental in appearance, yet reveal a plan which we are enabled to understand by the evolutions of history. 2. That the continents are made for human societies, as the body is made for the soul. 3. That each of the northern or historical continents is peculiarly adapted, by its nature, to perform a special part corresponding to the wants of humanity in one of the great phases of its history. Thus, nature and history, the earth and man, stand in the closest relations to each other, and form only one grand harmony. Gentlemen, I may treat this beautiful subject inade- quately ; but I have a deep conviction that it is worthy to occupy your leisure, as it will occupy for a long time to come, if I am not mistaken, the most exalted minds, and those most ripened for elevated researches. For nim who can embrace with a glance the great harmo- nies of nature and of history, there is here the most admirable plan to study; there are the past and future destinies of fe nations to decipher, traced in ineffaceable characters by the finger a.' Him who governs the world. Admirable order of the Supreme Intelligence and Good- uess, which has arranged all for the great purpose of FIGURE OF THE CONTINENTS 35 the education of man, and the realization J>f the plans of Mercy for his sako ! Be pleased always to remember, in my favor more than for yourselves, that the path of science is ofter dim- cult and beset with rugged cliffs. The traveller doubt- less gathers many flowers on the way. But the tree of Science, which bears the noblest fruits, is placed high up on precipitous rocks. It holds out to our view these precious fruits from afar. Happy he who by his efforts may pluck one of them, even were it the humblest. He values it, then, by what it has cost him. I have made the, attempt, and this fruit I offer to you. In default of beauty, may you find therein the savor that I have tasted myself. After what we have just said of the importance of the geographical forms of the crust of the globe, you will not be surprised, gentlemen, that these very forms of contour and relief, although so far entirely outside, and the arrangement of the great terrestrial masses, are to be the first subject to occupy our attention. Each of these masses is a solid, of which we are not able to ascertain the configuration, except by considering it at once in its horizontal dimensions and in its vertical dimensions; that is, in its extent and in its contours; then in the varieties of relief which its surface presents. It is in this twofold point of view, and that of then relative situation, that we must first of all study them. The contours of the continents, as they are shown by the maps before your eyes, are nothing else than tho delineation of the line of contact between the lands and 36 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHIC the horizontal surface of the oceans. This line is a true curve of level, the sinuosities of which depend entirely upon the plastic forms of the continent itself. It would change its form completely by the relative depression or elevation of the seas. Such as it is, it presents us an almost infinite variety of bends, in and out, which at the first glance seem perfectly irregular and accidental. Yet a more attentive study, and a comparison of the charac- teristic figures of the continents, enable us to perceive certain features of resemblance and a general disposition of their parts, which seem to indicate, as we shall see by-and-by, the existence of a common law which must have presided over their formation. These grand analogies, and these characteristic differ- ences of form and grouping, simple and evident as they appear to us when they have once been pointed out to our attention, have nevertheless been discovered only by degrees, and in succession, by the most eminent minds. Lord Bacon, the restorer of the physical sciences, first opened the way by remarking that the southern extremi- ties of the two worlds terminate in a point, turned to- wards the Southern Ocean, while they go on widening towards the north. After him, Reinhold Forster, the learned and judicious companion of Captain Cook in his second voyage round the world, took up this observation and developed it to a much greater extent. He points out substantially three analogies, three coincidences in the structure of the continents. The first is that the southern points of all the con- tinents are high and rocky, and seem to be the extremi- FIGURE OF THE CONTINENTS. 37 ues of mountain belts, which come from far in the interior, and breaK off abruptly, without transition, at the shore of the ocean. Thus America, which terminates in the rocky precipices of Cape Horn, the last represen- tatives of the already broken chain of the Andes; thus Africa, at the Cape of Good Hope, with its high plateaus and its Table Mountain, which rises from the bosom of the ocean to a height of more than 4,000 feet; thus Asia with the peninsula of the Deccan, which sends out the chain of the Ghauts to form the high rocks of Cape Comorin; Australia, lastly, whose southern extremity presents, at Cape Southeast, of Van Diemen's Land, the same abrupt and massive nature. A second analogy is, that the continents have, east of the southern points, a large island, or a group of islands more or less considerable. America has the Falkland Islands; Africa, Madagascar and the volcanic islands which surround it ; Asia has Ceylon ; and Australia, the *wo great islands of New Zealand. A third peculiarity of configuration, common to these same parts of the world, is a deep bend of their western side towards the interior of the continent. On this side their flanks are as if hollowed into a vast gulf. In America, the concave summit of this inflection is in- dicated by the position of Arica, at the foot of the high Cordillera of Bolivia. In Africa, the Gulf of Guinea expresses more strongly still this characteristic feature. It is more feebly marked in Asia by the Gulf of Cam baye, and the Indo-Persian Sea; it reappears fully in Australia, where the Gulf of Nuyts occupies almost the whole southern side. 4 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Forster did not stop here. Seeking to explain to him- self these remarkable coincidences in the structure of the great terrestrial masses, he arrived at the conclusion that the> were due to a single cause, and that this cause was a great cataclysm coming from the south-west The waters of the ocean, dashing violently against the barrier the continents opposed to them, ground away their sides with fury, scooped out the deep gulf open towards the south-west, swept off all the movable earth from the southern side, and left nothing standing but those rocky points, that formed only the skeleton. The islands on the east would be only the accumulated ruins of this great catastrophe, or the pieces of the conti- nent protected from total destruction by the jutting poinv which received the first shock. This hypothesis, bold as it is ingenious, was admitted by several of the most distinguished contemporaries of Forster. Pallas, among others, the celebrated northern traveller, inclines to receive this general cataclysm from the south-west, which seems to him to explain the great geological phenomena he had observed in the north of Asia. He attributes to it the hollowing out of the deer, gulfs which cut into the south of Europe and of Asia, and the formation of the great plains on the north, of those of Siberia, in particular. The whole ground, according to him, would be com- posed of earth torn from the southern countries-, trans- -wrted by the waves of the ocean, and by them deposited ui these places, after their fury had been spent upon the Himalaya, or the great table land of Asia. It is thus that he explains the presence in Siberia of fossil ele FIG j RE OF THE CONTINENTS. 39 phants and of mammoths, and a multitude of other animals and plants which live at the present day only under the sky of the tropics. He remarked, moreover, in support of t.iis hypothesis, that the disproportion ex- isting between the extent of the part of Asia situated south of the Himalaya, compared with that of the vast plains which flank the north of the central mass of the continent, seems to indicate that a great portion of these southern regions has been carried away by this great flood. Pallas, lastly, applies the same observation to America, the western part of which is reduced to a narrow strip, while the region east of the Andes makes almost the whole of the continent. Seductive as this idea is at the first glance, it is scarcely necessary to say that all that modern geology has taught upon the structure of the mountains, their rise, and the composition of the soil, forbid us to adopt it. It dates from a period when the mind, struck for the first time with the revolutions of the globe, of which it saw the traces everywhere, found no force sufficiently powerful to bring them about, and when water, in par- ticular, seemed the only agent that could be resorted to for their explanation. Nevertheless, it has the merit of binding together, and of fixing, in a precise manner, certain great facts, the existence of which is incon- testable At a later period Humboldt also shows that he J s hatching those general phenomena of the configuration Df the continents, seemingly destined to reveal the secret of their formation. He first calls our attention to the singulir parallelism existing between the two side* 40 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of tie Atlantic. The salient angles of the one cor- respond to the reentering angles of the other: Cape Si Roque in America, to the Gulf of Guinea ; the head-land of Africa, of which Cape Yerd is the extreme point, to the Gulf of Mexico, so that this ocean takes the form of a great valley, like those the mountainous countries pre- sent in such numbers. Steffens pushed the study of these analogies 01 the structure of the continents further still, and the picture which he gives us of them opens several new views upon the subject. He remarks, first, that the; lands ex- pand and come together towards the north, while they separate and narrow down to points in the sor.th. Now this tendency is marked, not only in the principal masses of the continents, but also in all the important, peninsulas which detach themselves from it. Greenland, Cali- fornia, Florida, in America ; Scandinavia, Spain, Italy, wid Greece, in Europe; the two Indies, Corea, Karn- tschatka, in Asia, all have their points turwxl towards the south. Passing to the grouping of the contiuunts among themselves, this learned man brings to our view the fact that these great terrestrial masses are grovip,ed two by two, in three double worlds, of which the two component parts are united together by an isthmus, or by a chain of islands ; moreover, on one side of the isthmus is found an archipelago, on the opposite side a peninsula. The purest type of this grouping of the c( ntinents is America. Its two halves, North America and South Am3rica, are nearly equal in size, and similar in form; ihsy form, so to speak, an equilibrium. The isthmus FIGURE OF THE CONTINENTS. 41 whu.h unites them is long and narrow. The archipelago on the east, that of he Antilles, is considerable; the peninsula on the west, California, without being greatly extended, is clearly outlined. The two other double worlds are less regular, less symmetrical. First, the component continents are of unequal size; then the two northern continents are united, and, as it were, joined back to back. Steffens divides them by a line passing through the Caucasus, and coming out upon the Persian Gulf. He thus recom- bines with Europe a part of Western Asia and Arabia, and gives Africa for its corresponding continent. They are united by the Isthmus of Suez, the shortest and most northern of all. The peninsula found on the east is Arabia, which is of considerable size; the archipelago on the west is that of Greece, which is comparatively of small importance. This relation is evidently, gentlemen, as you will agree, a forced one. But it seems to me that it would be easy to reestablish the analogy, so far as the irregu- larity of structure in the European continent permits, by considering Italy and Sicily, which almost touch Africa, by Cape Bon, as the true isthmus. The archipelago is then found on the east, according to the rule, and the jjoninsula, Spain, on the west. The third double world, Asia- Australia, is more nor- mal ; it approaches nearer the type. The isthmus which unites them is broken, it is true. But that long, continuous chain of islands, stretching without deviation from the peninsula of Malacca, by Sumatra, Java, and the other islands of the Sonde, to New Holland, offers 4* 42 COMPARATIVE PHYSICA 3EOGRAPHY. so striking an analogy and parallelism to the isthmus which unites the two Americas, that, before Steffenf, Ebel and Lamark had already pointed it out. The great archipelago of Borneo, Celebes, and of the Moluc- cas, corresponds to that of the Antilles; the peninsula of India, to California. Here the disproportion between the two continents, as to their extent, is pushed to the extreme. Asia-Aus- tralia presents the union of the greatest and the smallest of the terrestrial masses. These three double worlds exhaust the possible com- binations of relations between their component conti- nents. In America., that of the north and that of the south are equal in form and in power ; there is- a sym- metry. In the two others they are unequal. In Europe- Africa, the northern continent is the smallest. In Asia- Australia, it is the continent of the south. These views of Steffens, even without being justified by a physical theory of the phenomena, are not the less of high interest, and lead us to consider tne grouping of the continents under a point of view of the application of which we shall by-and-by see the utility. But none of the authors who occupied themselves with these questions of configuration and of grouping of the terrestrial spaces, has done so in a manner more happy, and more fruitful in important results, than Carl Ritter. This founder of historical geography, in the higli sense that should be attached to the word, this learned scholar, who has exalted geography to the rank of a philosophica. scimcs b'' *.he spirit he hag breathed into it, p.ppiied him FIGUR2 OF THE CONTINENTS. 43 self chiefl} to investigating what are the fundamental conditions of the form of the surface of the globe most favorable to the progress of man and of human societies. This novel point of view led him to the discovery of relations un perceived until then. We proceed to take cognizance of the principal of them, but at present in a manner wholly external. The signification of these groupings and of these forms will become manifest in the course of our studies. Ritter showed not only that the lands are more numer- ous in the northern portion of the earth than in the southern, but that, if we draw a great circle at once through the coast of Peru and the south of Asia, the Land Hemisphere. Water Hemisphere. surface of the globe is found to be divided into two hemispheres, the one containing the most extensive terrestrial masses, those nearest together and most im- portant ; while we behold, in the other, only vast oceans, in which float here and there the peninsular extrem- ities of the principal lands, narrowed and dispersed, and Australia, the smallest and most isolated of the con- tinents. One 's th'^n the Continental or Land hemi- 44 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. sphere, the other is the Oceanic or Water hemisphere (See Fig. 1.) The second general fact, with regard to the grouping of the lands is that of their combination in two great masses, the (Xd World and the New World, the forms and structure of which make a striking contrast, and give them a marked character of originality. Thus the direction of their greatest extension is the inverse in the two worlds. The principal mass of the Ancient World, Asia-Europe, stretches from east to west over one half of the circumference of the globe- while its width is vastly less, and occupies, even in Asia, only a part of the space which separates the equator from the pole. In Europe it is not equal to the sixth part of the earth's circumference. In America, on the contrary, the greatest length extends from the north to the south. It embraces more than one third of the circumference of the globe, and its width, which is very variable, never exceeds a fifth of this amount. The most remarkable consequence of this arrange- ment, is, that Asia-Europe extends through similai climatic zones, while America traverses nearly all the climatic zones of the earth, and presents in this relation a much greater variety of phenomena. The most important of these geographical relations of configuration, that which Ritter was the first to bring prominently forward, and the whole value of which he has explained with rare felicity, is the difference exist- ing between the different continents with regard to the extension cf the line of their contours. Some are deepl indented, f irnished wit.i peninsulas, gulfs, inland seas FIG RE OF THE CONTINENTS. 45 wJ.ich give to th3 line of their coasts a great length. Others present a mass more compact, more undivided ; their trunk is, as it were, deprived of members, and the line of the coasts, simple and without numerous inflec- tions, is comparatively much shorter. Considered under this aspect, the three principal con- tinents of the Old World form a remarkable contrast. Africa is far the most simple in its forms. Its mass, nearly round or ellipsoidal, is concentrated upon itself. It thrusts into the ocean nc important peninsula, nor anywhere lets into its bosom the waters of the sea. It seems to close itself against every influence from without. Thus the extension of the line of its coasts is only 14,000 geographical miles, of 60 to the degree, for a surface of 8,720,000 square miles ; so that Africa has only one mile of coast for 623 miles of surface. Asia, although bathed on three sides only by the ocean, is rich, especially on its eastern and southern coasts, in large peninsulas, as Arabia and the two Indies, Corea, Kamtschatka. Whole countries push out into the ocean, as Mandchouria and China. Nevertheless, the extent of this continent is such, that, in spite of the depth of the indentations, there yet remains at its centre a greatly preponderating mass of undivided land, which commands the maritime regions as the body commands the limbs. Asia is indebted to this configuration for a line of coast of 30,800 miles ; it is doable that of Africaj which is, nevertheless, only one third smaller. Asia., Jieref re, possesses a mile of coast to 459 square miles of surface. Of all the continents, Europe is the one whose forma 46 COMPAr&TIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of contour are most varied. Its principal mass is deeply eut in all parts by the ocean and by inland seas, and seems almost on the point of resolving itself into penin- sulas. These peninsulas themselves, as Greece, Scandi- navia, repeat to infinity the phenomena of articulation and indentation of coasts, which are characteristic of the entire continent. The inland seas and the portions of the ocean its outer limits enclose, form nearly half of its surface. The line of its shores is thus carried to the extent of 17,200 miles, an enormous proportion compared with its small size; for it is 3,200 miles more than Africa, which is nevertheless three times greater. Europe enjoys one mile of coast for every 156 square miles of surface. Thus it is the continent most open to the sea, for foreign connections, at the same time that it is the most individualized, and the richest in local and independent districts. In this regard there is, as we see, a sensible gradation between the three principal continents of the Old World Africa is the most simple ; it is a body without mem- bers, a tree without branches. Asia is a mighty trunk the numerous members of which, however, make only a fifth of its mass. In Europe, the members overrule the principal body, the branches cover the trunk; the pen- insulas form almost a third of its entire surface. Africa is closed to the ocean; Asia opens only its margins- Europe surrenders to it entirely, and is the most acces- sible of all the continents. America repeats the same contrasts, although in a less decided manner. North America, like Europe, is more indented than South America, the configuration of FIGURE OF THE CONTINENTS. 47 which, in the exterior at least, reminds us of the forms of Africa, and the uniformity of its contours. The two continents of the New World are more alike. Never- theless, the lire of the shores is much more extended in North than in South America. It is 24,000 miles in the former, or one mile of coast to 228 square miles of sur- face ; ia the latter, it is 13,600 miles, or a mile of crast for 376 miles of surface. The following table represents these differences of configuration of the continents by numerical propor- tions. The mile here employed is the geographical niiie, of 60 to the degree. It is the only one we shall make use of in the course of these lectures. 1 Countries. Surface in square miles of CO to a Length of line Square miles for 1 mile of degree. coast. Europe ..... 2,688,000 17,200 156 14,128,000 30,800 459 8,720,000 14,000 623 Australia, .... 2,208,000 7,600 290 North America, . . 5,472,000 24,000 228 South America, . . 5,136,000 13,600 376 It is to Ritter, moreover, as well as to Humboldt, that science is indebted for the appreciation of the value of the relations of size, of relative position of each of the continents, the influence of which, in nature and in histo r v, will appear constantly greater the further we advance hi our inquiries. The exposition we have just made has shown us at once differences and analogies in the forms and di 48 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. position of the continental or land masses. The differ ences prove that each continent, or each group of con- tinents, has a character peculiar to itself, and in some sort individual. The analogies lead us to suspect the existence of a general law ; they disclose an arrange- ment which cannot be without a purpose; now, this purpose it will be our duty to seek to comprehend, ii we would attain to the true understanding of this pan 01 Creation. LECTURE I!. Recapitulation Vertical dimensions or forms of relief DifficuUit p resented by their study Usefulness of profiles Great influent* of differences of height Elevations in mass, and linear elevations - Importance of the former Labors of Humboldt and Ritter on thit subject Examination of the general features of relief of the con- tinents A great common law embracing them all. LADIES ANT GENTLEMEN : The conclusion of the preceding lecture was devoted to a simple examination of the most prominent forms which the continents present to us, and such as the line of contact of the lands with the horizontal surface of the oceans exhibits to the eye. In this first review, we have followed, step by step, in their discoveries, the men of science who were the first to point them out. We have recognized, with Lord Bacon and Forster, the tapering form of the southern points of the continents, their gulfs on the west, and their islands on the east ; with Pallas, the situation of the great plains in the north of the Old World, and the east of the New ; with Hum- boldt, the winding forms and parallel shores of the gruat oceanic valley bearing the name of the Atlantic ; with StefTens, the enlargement of all the lands towards the north, and the characteristic grouping of the con- tinents in three double worlds. Ritter, finally, has shown us how almost all the lands are combined in one hemisphere, which may be contrasted as a continenta? 5 50 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. hemisphere with the other, which is almost entirely covered with water ; how the lands, in their turn, are grouped in two principal masses, in two worlds, the (Xd and the New, differing in extent, in forms of contour, in structure, and in direction. This learned man, above all, teaches us to consider the forms of the continents in a light entirely new, by drawing our attention to one of the most characteristic features, and, as we shall see, one of the most important, which had escaped all the geographers before him; and that is the considerable difference the various continents present with regard to the greater or smaller number of indentations of their coasts, and of the lesser or greater extent of the line of their shores, of their more or less gradual contact with the waters of the seas and of the oceans. All these characteristic differences, their gradation, and, above all, the numerous analogies the forms and the grouping of the great terrestrial masses present, have appeared to disclose a symmetrical arrangement, and, as it were, an organization of the continental masses, owing, doubtless, to a physical law, none the less real on account of its being as yet unknown to science. We shall have occasion hereafter to estimate the value and the influence of these relations, which we have merely stated. But to complete our preparatory study, it is not enough to have taken cognizance of these horizontal forms. We must further make ourselves acquainted with the vertical configuration of the surface, also, of the continents bathed by the atmosphere; that is to say, it is necessary to grasp the most essential features of their relief, so intimately, combined with the varieties RELIEF OF THE CONTINENTS. 51 of their horizontal forms, and moulding in such varoui manners the different countries of the globe. It is only after having considered the continents under this second point of view, that we shall have the elements neces- sary to understand the great phenomena of the life of the globe. But a great difficulty of this study is, that the eye cannot distinguish the elevations on the maps, as well as the contours ; besides, physical maps are still want- ing for a great part of the earth, and have only been made by nations the most advanced in civilization. In this regard, America deserves to have one of her own 5 and every friend of science should lend the aid of hi. good wishes to the accomplishment of so desirable a result. To remedy these difficulties, we must avail ourselves of profiles. You will easily understand what a profile is, by casting a glance at the plaster model before you, representing one of the most rugged and broken parts of the Swiss Jura. If, cutting it perpendicularly in its length, you place yourselves in front of the section, the line formed by the edge of the surface will present you a profile of the kind which we shall make use of. It would be of the highest interest to preserve, in these sections, the true proportion between the heights and the horizontal extent, such as it is in nature ; but it is not possible to do so without making use of drawings on a very large scale, and when it is intended to represent only a very small portion of the terrestrial surface. If, however, we were to make transverse sections of an entire continent, the extent of the horizontal dimensions. 52 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. compared witi that of the vertical'dimensions, would be so great that the latter would become imperceptible to the eye. We are, therefore, obliged to enlarge the scale of heights a certain number of times, in order to render them sufficiently distinct ; and this has been done in the numerous profiles that are here exhibited. (See plates ii. and m.) You will understand the necessity of this disproportion, if you consider the fact that the loftiest mountain of the globe is only six miles high, while the diameter of the earth is nearly eight thousand miles ; so that, representing it in its true proportions, the Dhavalagiri, with its 28,000 feet, would be raised only a twelfth of an inch on a globe ten feet in diameter. Nevertheless, it would be a mistake to draw from this fact the conclusion that the knowledge and study of these forms, so insignificant in appearance, have but a slight importance. This element, on the contrary, is so essen- tial, that an elevation of level of 350 feet, for example, which is only that of many of our public edifices, is sufficient to diminish the mean temperature of a place by one degree of Fahrenheit ; that is to say, the effect is the same as if the place were situated sixty miles further south. A few thousand feet of height, which are nothing to the mass of the globe, change entirely the aspect and the character of a country. The excellent vineyards bordering the banks of the Swiss lakes become impossible at 1,000 feet, at 500 even, above their present level; and the tillage, the occupations of the inhabitants, take here a quite different character. A thousand feet higher still, and the rigor of the climate no 'onger permi ,d ;he fruit trees to flourish ; the pastures RELIEF OF THE CONTINENTS. 53 are the only wealth of the mountaineer, for whom indus- try ceases to be a resource. Higher still, vegetation disappears, with it the animals, and soon, instead of the smiling pictures of the plain and the lower valleys, suc- ceeds the spectacle of the majestic but desolated regions ol eternal ice and snow, where the sound and animation y life give place to the silence of death. In truth, all the life of the globe is spread on the sur- face, and the whole space comprised between the bed of the oceans and the regions of the atmosphere, habitable for organized beings, forms only a thin pellicle round the enormous mass of our planet. The physical position of a place, a? I would call its altitude, or its elevation in the atmosphere above the level of the seas, is, then, the necessary complement of its geographical position. In considering only places situated in a region of small extent, this element is even far the most important to know. Although the forms of relief are infinitely varied, it seems to me that we may refer them to two great classes, admitting of numerous modifications. 1. The elevations in mass, and by great surfaces, which are called plains, or lowlands, when they are ele- vated only a little above the level of the oceans, and plateaus, or table lands, when their elevation is more considerable, and presents a solid platform, a basis of groat thickness. 2. The inear elevations and the chains of mountains, which are distributed over the surface and on the bor- ders of the plains and of the table lands, or moie rarely in isolated groups. 5* 64 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Of these tbree forms, those which strike us most at the first glance, are the mountains ; and so the geogra- phers have occupied themselves with these in the first place. Buache, of the French Academy, in the middle of the last century, was the first who attempted to com- prise in a systematic order the whole of the mountains of the earth ; but he was too often obliged to supply by imag- ination the want of positive knowledge ; and I mention here his essay on the connection of the mountains of the globe, only to point out the first step that was taken in this path. After him, Buffon made the important observa- tion, that the principal mountain chains of the Old World follow the direction of the parallels, and those of the New World, the direction of the meridians ; and that the secondary chains follow the inverse in both. This predilection for the mountains lasted a long time ; we may say that it still prevails in geology. Although the upheaval of the great surfaces, horizontal or slightly inclined, the elevation of entire continents, may be per- haps a more essential fact in the physical history of our globe, than that of a chain of mountains ; nevertheless, geology has scarcely occupied itself except with the latter, and seems almost ready to admit that the upheaval of mountain chains is the principal fact, and that of the large surfaces and of the plateaus the accompaniment. This is not the place to discuss this great question, but we are bound to say, that, at all events, in physical geography we cannot be of this opinion. Although the word plateau was introduced into science by B lache, the importance of these elevations in mass in physical geography was not recognized in reality before the time of Alexander Humboldt. He was the F.ELIEF 3 reliefs from east to west ; in the same manner, in the New World, the principal slope is from the west to the east, but it may be seen that the reliefs go on gradu- ally increasing from north to south, as in the Old World. In these two secondary directions of the reliefs, we liscover the law of the unequal slopes ; in the Old World, RELIEF THE CONTINENTS. b9 the *ong slope descends to the west, the short slope to the east ; in the New World, the long slope is to tha noi th, the short to the south. 1. ASIA - EUROPE from East to West. Low I'di and Table landi. HigUtt MouaUiii*. 28,000 20,000 17,800 10,000 15,800 11,200 15,000 12,000 3,000 13,500 17,000 21,400 25,300 Table lands of Tubet, 14,000 7,000 4,000 3,000 2,300 1,700 2. AFRICA from East to West. 7,000 4,000? 2,000? 3. AMERICA from North to South. 6,000 7,500 8,500 9,500 12,500 70 COMPARATIVE PHI 3ICAL GEOGRAPHY. 6. Generally speaking, the reliefs go on increasing from the poles to the tropical regions. The highest elevations, however, are not placed at the equator, but in the neighborhood of the Tropic of Cancer, in the Old World, (Himalaya, 27 north lat.,) and near the Tropic of Capricorn, in the New World, (Nevado de Sorata, 18 south lat.) I notice here one of the great compensations, one of the great harmonies, of nature. The effect of this law of arrangement is, to temper the burning heats of these regions, and to give them such a variety of climate as seems not to belong to these countries of the globe. K this order were reversed, and the elevation of the lam went on increasing towards the north, the most civilize' half of the globe, at the present day, would be a frozen and uninhabited desert. 7. In fine, a common law combines in a single great fact all we have just said upon the general reliefs of the continent ; it may be thus expressed : All the long and gentle slopes descend towards the Atlantic and towards the Frozen Ocean, which is only a dependence of it; all the short and rapid slopes, or counter-slopes, are directed towards the Pacific Ocean and towards the Indian Ocean, which is its continuation. In this point of view, these two great oceans appear as two basins of different geological character. The Pacific Ocean seems an immense basin which has sunk down, and whose high and ragged edges pre- sent on all sides the abrupt terminations of the conti- nents. It is on this great line of fractures, on the borders and all round this ocean, as has been pointed out by Mr. von Buch and other scientific men, that we behold the RE1 F OF THE CONTINENTS. 71 groat majority of the active volcanoes of our globe arranged like an immense burning crown. If we add to this feature the multitude of volcanic islands scattered over the ocean, we comprehend the idea, expressed by Steffens, that the vast basin occupies the place of a ccn- tinent of the early ages, uniting the two worlds, but sunk and submerged at presen , under the deep waters of the ocean, in consequence of one of the latest great revolu- tions of our globe. The Atlantic Ocean, on the contrary, would be a oimple depression, somewhat in the form of a trough, owing, perhaps, to a lateral pressure, and partly to the tilting motion which lifted up the lands in the neighbor- hood of the Pacific. Hence, its narrower breadth, the valley form, the absence of numerous islands in the interior of its basin, and the descent of all the neighbor- ing continents by gentle slopes. Nevertheless, if we suppose the lateral force that pressed it in to have been very strong, we may conceive that this valley has a great depth. Thus, then, gentlemen, a great law, a general b;.y ; unites all the various systems of mountains and '.A plateaus that cover the surface of our globe, and arranges them in a vast and regular system of slopes and counter-slopes. Considered with reference to the present state of geology, this result is astonishing. The study of the relative ages of the different systems of elevations, teaches us that each of tlv,m ha'.* existed a long time separate' y. One appeared in one country at a given epoch, anot ler in another. The continents are unly formed, so to speak, by pie-' ^meal, in the train of the geological epochs; and, nevertheless, the definitive T2 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. result makes a whole, composed of parts subordinated to each other in a certain system, which might be called an organism in this order of things. This is not the moment to press the consequences of so remarkable a fact. It is enough for me to havo pointed it out to your attention. I will add only, that the geological researches place leyond a doubt the existence of an intimate relation between the height of the mountains and of the plateaus, and the epoch of their appearance above the surface of the oceans. The most ancient chains of mountains are the least elevated ; while the colossal grandeurs of the Andes and the Himalaya bear the traces of an upheaval comparatively very recent. In America, from the coasts of Brazil to the high table lands of Bolivia, and from the .Atlantic shores to the Rocky Mountains; in Europe, from the mountains of Scandinavia to the summit of the Alps, we meet with upheavirigs successively less ancient. In the two worlds the continental masses have then become greater in the lapse of the ages, not by chance, but in two determinate directions; that is, in a geo- graphical order, from the north to the south of the Old World, and from the east to the west in the New ; and I think we may hence infer, that from the moment when the oldest lands we know emerged, the continents have had a tendency to form themselves on the spot where they now are. We see that here, as elsewhere, all is done with order and measure, and according to a plan which we shall have a right to believe was foreseen and intended, when we shall have studied all the consequences of this f raent of the continental masses. LECTUKE ill. Attribution of the talk lands, the mountains, and the plains in the different continents; the Old World that of plateaus, the New World that of plains The basin of the oceans ; this inquiry com- pletes the study of the plastic forms of the earth's crust Division and characteristics of the oceans ; their contours and their depth Comparison of the latter with the mean elevation of the continents Conclusions Necessity of considering the physiology of the canti nental forms Point of view which should be taken Law of the development of life. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN : In our last lecture we carried our examination into the general forms of relief of the continents. Our inves- tigation has permitted us to establish the existence of a great common law of slopes and counter-slopes, of increase and decrease of reliefs. The entire continents, as well as the mountains, have two principal unequal slopes ; the long and gentle slopes descend towards the Atlantic and Frozen Ocean, the short and steep slopes towards the Pacific Ocean. To finish this subject, it remains to say a word upon the distribution of the table lands, of the mountains, and of the plains in the different continents. The distribution of these three great forms of relief is it uniform or not ? Or are there not some character- istic differences, to be pointed out in this regai J, between the continents ? Does not the form of the elevated table lands prevail in one part of i?:e world, the form of the 7 I COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GE^GRAPHF. plains in another, the form of the mountains, fin ally, in yet a third 1 If we call to mind the important influence each of these forms exerts on the climate, the produc- tions, and on the conditions of existence, and growth of the nations, we shall regard this question as one of (hose which most concern our subject. Considered in this point of view, the continents pre- sent, in reality, remarkable differences. The Old World, as we have learned from the study of its reliefs, is that of table lands and mountains. No continent exhibits plateaus so elevated, so numerous, so extensive, as Asia and Africa. Instead of one or two chains of mountains, like the Andes, Central Asia is traversed by four immense chains, .supporting vast table lands of from 5,000 to 14,000 feet in elevation, and the loftiest mountains of the globe. The extent of this elevated region is more than 2,400 miles long, by 1,500 miles broad. The principal mass of Western Asia is nothing but a plateau, from three to six thousand feet in height. Africa, south of Sahara, seems to be only an enormous pile of uplifted lands. It has been calculated that the mountains and plateaus of Asia cover five sevenths of its surface, while the plains occupy only two sevenths. In Africa, the high regions form two thirds of the continent, the plains only one third. If I call the Old World the world of plateaus, it is not because great plains are wanting there. The whole north of Europe and of Asia is merely a boundless plain, and from the shores of Holland, through Germany, Russia, the Steppes of the Caspian and Siberia, the raveller may cross the Ancient World fom the Atlau- DISTRIBUTION OF PLAS'lvO FORMS. 75 tic to the Pacific Ocean, for a distance of more than six thousand miles, without encountering an eminence af more than a few hundred feet in height. In Africa, also, the plains of Sahara extend 2,500 miles in length, by 1 ; 000 in breadth. But the situation of these plains of the Old World under the frozen sky of the north, and under the fires of the tropics, together with the nature of their soil, takes from them all their importance. The one is a frozen waste, a Siberia; the other a burning desert; and neither the one nor the other is called tc play an essential part, nor do they impress upon their respective continents their essential character. The New World, on the other hand, is the world of plains. They form two thirds of its surface ; the pla- teaus and the mountains, only one third. The high lands form only a narrow band, crowded upon the west- ern coast of the two continents. Almost the whole East runs into immense plains, covering it, one might say, from pole to pole. From the Frozen Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, over an extent of nearly 2,400 miles, we cross only insignificant heights. From the llanos of the Orinoco to the banks of La Plata, we traverse more than three thousand miles of low plains, slightly interrupted by the somewhat more elevated regions of western Bra- zil; they are prolonged even to. the Pampas of Pata- gonia, 600 miles further south, to the southern extrem- ity of America. The length of the rich plains watered by the Mataflor., in the direction of the current, is nearly 1,600 miles ; and what are the plains of the Amazon and the Mississippi, compared with those of Siberia and Sahara ? A. happy climate, a rich and fertile soil. , a 6 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. wonderful vegetation, prodigious resources they have all that makes the prosperity of a country , who does not see that here is the character of America, here lies the future of the New World, while the countries of mountains and pi iteaus seem destined to play only a secondary part ? Even in this regard the two worlds have each its own character, and form a great contrast ; so that we may say that, in one of the hemispheres, the plateaus and the mountains predominate, while, in the other, the plains give the important and essential feature of relief. Finally, if we were seeking for a continent where the form of mountains, without plateaus at their base, should be the characteristic feature, it would be necessary to name Europe,.comprehending in it only Western Europe without Russia ; that is, historical Europe, the true Europe after all. This continent, with Russia, has three fourths of plains to one fourth of mountainous country ; but, leaving out Russia, it is quite otherwise. Traverse Europe from one end to the other, whether over its central mass or its peninsulas, you will find every- where its soil modified, cut in all directions by chains of mountains intersecting each other. In all this part of the continent, the largest existing plain, that of Northern Germany and Poland, is only six hundred miles long by two hundred broad. It is the extremity of the great Asiatic plains in the north. The other plains, as those of France, of Hungary, of Lombardy, are smaller in extent, arid do not deprive this part of the continent of the mountainous character essentially be- longing to it THE OCEANS. 77 We have now considered the configuration of the general forms of the continents ; let us not forget that this is only one half of the plastic forms of the earth's crust. There is another, which, though hidden from our sight, is none the less entitled to our interest. It is me basin of the oceans. The positive forms of the lands which we have studied determine negatively for the oceans, whether horizontally or vertically, certain forms no less char- acteristic. We ought, then, to examine the character of the ocean basins, in the two-fold relation of the forms and the indentations of their shores, and of their depth. But the time presses, and I must be brief; lim- iting myself to the essential facts, I shall omit all that does not touch directly upon my subject. The continents determine the general outlines of the great ocean basins. The indentations of their coasts give the articulation of the shores of the oceans; the islands, by their disposition, by their less or greater fre- quency, furnish what else is wanting to complete their character ; the one is the counterpart of the other ; they are the same forms, but in an inverse order. Two great oceans, the Pacific and the Atlantic, cor- responding to the two worlds, surround, on almost all sides, the principal terrestrial masses. We may detach from the Pacific, the Indian Ocean, which, though belonging to it, has some special characteristics ; and separate from the Atlantic, the Northern Frozen Ocean, Me position of which gives it a particular physiognomy. A.S to the great Southern Sea, we may consider it less as in o ean by itself than as a common reservoir, whence 7* 78 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. issue, so to speak, all the seas of the globe, to make their way into the lands. The Pacific, the Indian Ocean, the Atlantic, corre- spond tc tb.e three double worlds which we have distin- guished, following StefFens, and separate them from one another. Each of them, also, is divided into a northern and a southern basin, except the Indian Ocean, which, on this account, is only a half ocean. The general forms of the contours of these three oceans have, as a common feature, a wide opening to- wards the south, and are narrowed to a point on the north, just the reverse of the continents. Each of these has, meantime, a lorm peculiar to itself. The Pacific Ocean is an oval, wide open on the south, the sides coming nearer and nearer together towards the north, so as to leave, between America and Asia, only the narrow passage of Behrings' Straits, by which it com- municates with the Frozen Ocean. The Indian Ocean has the form of a triangle, with the vertex turned to the north ; the Atlantic that of a valley with nearly parallel sides, which, narrowed for a moment, then broadens into the Frozen Ocean. The oceans differ, moreover, in the mode of articu- lation of their shores. These indentations have very various forms, which I will classify, for the moment, tinder three species: the gulfs, like that of Bengal ; the land-locked seas, isolated from the rest of the ocean by peninsulas and chains of islands, like the Sea of Japan, the Sea of Okhotsk ; the inland seas, surrounded on all sides by the land, in a continvious manrer, like theMed- iterranear and the Baltic. THE OCEANS. 79 Considered with reference to the indentations, the three oceans lave their own respective characters, and we find that in each, one of these three forms Dredoru- inates. The Pacific Ocean is that of the land-locked or closed seas ; for there are no less than five of considerable size along the coast of Asia : the Sea of Behring, closed in by the peninsula of Aljaska, and the chain of the Aleutian Islands; the Sea of Okhotsk, enclosed by the peninsula of Kamtschatka, and the series of the Kurile Islands ; the Sea of Japan, shut in by the island chain of this name ; the northern Chinese Sea, locked by the islands of Lieu-Khieu and Formosa; the Southern Sea of China, locked by the Philippines, Borneo, and the peninsula of Indo-China. We may almost call the Vermilion Sea, or Gulf of California, an inland sea, it being the only indentation of this ocean somewhat marked, on the American coast. The Indian Ocean is that of gulfs ; for the two great Gulfs of Bengal and the Persian Sea impress upon it its character. It pushes, besides, into the interior two mid- land seas, the Persian Gulf and the Red Sea, which detach the peninsula of Arabia from the rest of the continent. The Atlantic Ocean is that of inland seas. No one advances further into the lands, piercing into the very heart of the Old World and the New. There are, at least, four mediterraneans, without taking into the account the Poiar seas ; two on the European side, the Mediterranean, properly so called, divided into three great basins; the Eastern, the Western, the Black Sea, not to mention several others of small size, and the 80 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPI V. . Baltic ; two on the coasts of the New World, the Gult of Mexico and Hudson's Bay. Neither is the form of and-locked seas wanting here also ; the Northern Ocean, on the coasts of the Old World, the Caribbean Sea in Central America, closed by the peninsula of Yucatan add the chain of the greater and lesser Antilles; the Gulf of St. Lawrence, locked by the peninsula of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, are the proof. The great gulfs are represented by those of Guinea and of Biscay. The Atlantic Ocean is, then, the most articulated, the most indented of the oceans, and that which, by its blending with the lands, approaches the nearest to the character of the inland seas. It is, if I may venture to say so, the most maritime of the oceans, as the Pacific is the most truly oceanic. The islands, finally, are one of the most interesting characteristics of the oceans. There are two species to be distinguished: the continental islands, which their proximity, their size, their geographical character, their forming a line with the mountain chains of the firm land, prove to be a dependence of the continents; and the pelagic, or oceanic islands, dispersed singly, or in groups, at a distance from the lands, over the vast sur- face of the ocean, of small dimensions, and always of a volcanic or coralline character. The Pacific Ocean is far the richest in islands, whemer continental or pelagic. The Indian archipelago and lhat of New Holland is the largest continental archi- pelago existing on the surface of the globe; and the thousands of pelagic islands with which the centre of 'his ocean ir studded, 'have nowhere else their parallel. THE OCEANS. 8l The Atlantic Ocean possesses still, in the group of the Antilles, the British Isles, and those of the Mediter- ranean, continental archipelagos of great importance- but the pelagic islands are poorly represented there bv the groips of the Azores, Madeira, the Canaries, Cape Verd, St. Helena, and some other small islands lost in the midst of the ocean. The Indian Ocean is scanty in both. Madagascar and Ceylon, one by a main-land, represent the continental islands. Here and there a few volcanic islands, as Mauritius and Bourbon, represent the pelagic. Each ocean, therefore, differs from the others, in some peculiarities of character ; and we readily conceive how these circumstances may modify their importance, with regard to the facility or the difficulty they may bring into the relations of exchange which commerce estab- lishes among all the nations of the world. -t Let us now see what is known of the vertical dimen- sions, or of the configuration of their basin. The basin of the oceans is depressed below the face of their waters, as the continents are elevated in the atmosphere above the same surface level. It may, then, be said, that we know not one half of the reliefs of the solid crust of our globe, for more than two thirds are concealed from our observation by the seas that cover tham. It would, nevertheless, be of the highest interest for geology, as, well as for the physics of the globe, to ascertain the forms, the depth, and the nature of the bottom of the oceans. But though we have numerous soundi 'gs ?xecuter 'n the neighl orhood of the shores, to 82 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. meet the wants jf navigation, we have only a very few in the interior, and in the deep:st parts of the oceans Th3se operations require a consumption of time, and an amount of labor, which will always render them rare. Recourse has been had to hypotheses, while waiting for positive information on the subject. In th3 neighborhood of the continents, the seas are jften shallow, and their bottom seems to be only the continuation, by gentle slopes, of the relief of the con- tinents that border them. Thus the Baltic Sea has a depth of only 120 feet between the coasts of Germany and those of Sweden ; scarcely a twentieth part of that of Lago Maggiore, in the Italian Alps; further north, it becomes deeper. The Adriatic, between Yenice and Trieste, has a depth of only 130 feet. In these two cases, we see that the bed is only the continuation of the gentle inclination of the plains of Northern Germany and of Friuli. It is the same with the Northern Sea, and with those which wash the British Islands. Here is found a submarine plateau, which serves as a common basis for the coasts of France and the British Islands ; ruwhere does it sink lower than 600 feet, and frequently it rises much higher. Between France and England, the greatest depth does not exceed 300 feet but at the edge of the plateau, south-west of Ireland, for example, the depth suddenly sinks to more than 2,000 feet ; we may say that here the basin of the Atlantic reaJy begiis. The soas if. the south of Europe are distinguished from the precoding by their much greater depths. The '-asin of the Mediterranean may be called a basin broken THE OCEANS. Si through, an I fallen in, resembling on a sinaL scale what the Pacific Ocean is on a large one. All the short and abrupt slopes of the lands surrounding It fall rap'dly towards the interior. The western basin, in particular seems to be very deep ; it is isolated from the Atlantic, by a submarine ridge or neck, which, in the narrowest part of the Strait of Gibraltar, is not more than 1,000 feet below the surface. But a little further towards the east, the depth falls suddenly to 3,000 feet ; and at the south of the coast of Spain, and of the Sierra Nevada, a depth of nearly 6,000 has been ascertained by Captain Smith. Captain Berard indicates still greater depths on the coast of Algeria. If we may believe Marsigli, and if he has not made some mistake in the statement, there has been found in the prolongation of the Pyre- nees, the enormous depth of 9,000 feet. Not far from Cape Asmara, on the north-west of Sardinia, the plum- met has been sunk, without touching bottom, at a depth of nearly 5,000 feet. Between Sicily and the coast of Africa, at Cape Bon, a second neck, from 50 to 500 feet in depth, separates the western from the eastern basin of the Mediterranean. The latter seems to be less deep than the former ; never- theless, depths of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet have been determined in the neighborhood of the Ionian Islands, and the southern coast of Asia Minor. The Black Sea seems to partake of the character of a sunk basin. The Russian maps give it more than 3,000 feet south of the Crimea, and 2,500 on the coast of Abkhasie. The Caspian Sea, placed on the limits of the northern plains, and o. the tabte land of Persia, 84 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. is composed of two basins. The northern part, as fa as the Caucasus, is shallow; it is the continuation ct the low plains of the Volga, and of the Oural. This limit passed, the depth rapidly increases towards the basis of the high chain of the Demavend. Thus, in the European seas, the depth increases with the elevation of the surrounding lands. The line of the islands and the peninsulas forming along the eastern coast of Asia the numerous locked seas we have already named, seems to indicate the ancient border of a continent. Within this line these seas have only an inconsiderable depth. The seas which bathe the archipelago of the Sunda Islands, and of Southern China, scarcely anywhere reach the depth of 300 feet. Further north, we find scarcely four 01 five hundred feet, even at a distance of more than 100 miles from the coasts. The deeps of the ocean begin only outside of the line of the islands. Since Dampier, it has often been said that the sea is always deep at the foot of high and steep shores, and shallow at the edge of low coasts. The facts just cited prove that this observation, correct in many cases, has only a relative value, and does not hold good universally. Those shallow seas of Eastern Asia are edged in great part by very high lands. The massive point of the soufti of Africa ends witr. abrupt coasts, and yet it is necessary to go out more than 100 miles before finding 600 feet of water. According to this rule, we should expect to find no greater depth of sea than at the western foot of the lofty Andes, the declivities of which sweep down so suddenly into the THE OCEANS. 85 Pacific Oceai; and nevertheless, under the parallel of Lima, this ocean has only 000 feet, more than forty miles from the coast. On the other hand, the low plains of the Landes of Bordeaux, on the coast of France, lying along the Gulf of Biscay, look out upon a sea, the bottom of which, at a shor: distance, sinks already lower than c thousand feet. In Central America, the Gulf of Mexico, 300 miles from the coast of the United States, and 100 miles north of Yucatan, has a depth of only 600 feet ; it is, perhaps, a submarine continuation of the plains of Mississippi. Beyond the line of the Antilles, on the contrary, in the vol- canic basin of the Caribbean Sea, Captain Sabine indi- cates a temperature taken at 6,000 feet below the surface. With regard to the depths of the open sea, they are still but little known ; we have, however, some very interesting measurements in the Atlantic Ocean. I cite the most remarkable : Captains Scoresby and Parry found the basin of the Polar seas very deep, but unequal. Scoresby did not touch bottom, at the 76th degree of north latitude, with a sounding line of 7,200 feet in length. Captain J. Ross went beyond 6,000, in Baffin's Bay. Science is indebted to the skilful direction of the United States Coast Survey, for a great number of very instructive soundings on the American side of the middle part of the Atlantic. One ol the ablest of those engaged in this service, Captain Charles H. Davis, U. S. N., whose labors have contrib- uted so much to a better knowledge of the true conforma- tion of the submarine portion of the United States coasts dropped the lead 7,800 fe.'t, about 250 miles south of 86 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Nantuck?t; Lieutenant G. Ba.che, 13.000 feet, 34 N. L. The report of Professor A. D. Bache, Superintendent of the Survey, mentions, among the operations of 1848, a thermometrical sounding, taken by the late Lieutenant R. Bache, off Cape Hatteras, giving a depth of 3,300 fathoms, or 19,800 feet, without reaching the bottom. This depth, which left far behind all hitherto ascertained in these quarters, has very recently been surpassed by a sounding executed by Lieutenant Walsh, U. S. N., under the direction of Lieutenant M. F. Maury,* director of the Observatory at Washington. On the 15th of November, 1849, east of the Bermudas, 31 59' north latitude, and 58 43' 25" west longitude from Greenwich, in the immediate neighborhood of the position assigned to the rocks called the False Bermudas, the weather being calm and beautiful, Lieutenant Walsh, U. S. N., sunk the lead to the depth of 5,700 fathoms, or 34,200 feet, without touching bottom. The breaking of the line alone pre- vented him from reaching a greater depth still, for all the circumstances seemed eminently favorable. This depth, which exceeds by 6,600 feet the deepest of the celebrated measurements of Captain J. C. Ross, is the greatest ever ascertained, and reveals, beneath the tranquil surface of the ocean, abysms which we hardly ventured to suspect. The southern basin of the Atlantic seems to have its share of these immense depths, a. though some indications have g:ven rise to the belief * For the opportunity of making known, this remarkable fact, I am indebted to the kindness of this scientific gentleman, whose zea for the study of the phenomena of the sea, and the services he has rem ered tc navigation, by the tudy of the winds and currents, are uui "ersal y ch. Comparing i with the map of the Silurian epoch, we GRADUAL FORMATION OF THE CONTINSKTS. ill shall be able to form an idea of the change that has been wrought. (See Fig. 4.) Fig. 4. Europe at the Tertiary Epoch. Not only the number of the lands has been multiplied, but everywhere the primitive islands have been enlarged and consolidated. The centre of the continent, Germany and France, constitutes already a considerable collective region, unbroken save by a few interior basins. . The British Isles form already two or three large islands, and the eastern part of England only is wanting. The three penrasulas jf the south are clearly traced; Italy 112 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. only is still exposed along its coast to the encroachments of the sea ; Scandinavia continues to form a large soli- tary island ; the mountains are more elevated ; the Pyre- nees, the Appenines, a small part of the Alps, already mark out the great features of relief which characterize the contin3nt During the tertiary epoch, the variety of physical cir- cumstances is still increasing; a multitude of isolated basins, like those of Paris, of London, of Oeningen, assume a special physiognomy, and have their separate faunas. The natural physical regions are determined, and take their distinctive character. The climates are diversified with all the physical circumstances of a country, and are reflected in the ever-increasing diver- sity of animal and vegetable genera and species. Meantime, this movement of specialization is not going to extremes. The masses of earth, while becoming more numerous, more various, more diversified in shape, ere grouping themselves more and more; the contours of the continents are getting better defined; the tertiary basins are filling and drying up. The water of the seas disappearing from the interior, the atmospheric waters, which run on the surface, supply their place, scoop out their valleys, make the slopes regular, equalize the soil by spreading over it their precious alluvium. The dilu- vial torrents and the immense glaciers, contemporaneous with this epoch, complete the shaping of the soil and the preparing of this fertile loam, which will richly repay the toil of the laborer. The earth is ready to receive its ord. It is thus, by a process of admirable simplicity, this GRADUAL FORMATION OF THE CONTINENTS. 113 diversity of successive elevations is combined into a few great units, a few continents ; these in turn are grouped in two worlds and form an organism, with some of the features of which we have already become acquainted. This same progress is confirmed by palaeontology, through all the successive ages of nature. Tht variety and the perfection of the types and species keep pace with the increasing diversity of the lands and the seas, and all the physical circumstances which serve as the basis and the condition for the life of plant and animal. In the insular or oceanic epoch, that of the palaeozoic strata, we have seen animals entirely marine prevailing, and forming the inferior and embryonic types of the four divisions of the animal kingdom ; it is the reign of the fishes, if we take the vertebrates as the type of develop- ment. During the formation of the secondary strata, which I would call the maritime epoch, on account of the great land-locked seas that characterize it, the huge reptiles, the monstrous Saurians of the Jurassic Avaters, are the prevailing form, and by their amphibious habits mark at once their more elevated position in the animal scale, and the increasing force of the land element. The numbers of living genera and species are much greater than at the palaeozoic epoch, but the same types are still uniformly spread over vast spaces. The tertiary epoch, which I would call the continental epoch, beholds the appearance of the superior animals, the mammifers, the life of which is almost exclusively attached to the solid land. The continental element triumphs ; all the faunas become localized ; each country of the globe has its appropriate animals ; the variety of 10* 114 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. animal and vegetable species grows almost to infinity. But the unity reappears with the creation of man, who combines in his physical nature all the perfections of the animal, and who is the end of all this long progression of organized beings. If we caa; a glance back upon the way we have Just passed over, do we not, gentlemen, recognize a striking analogy between this successive formation, first >f our solar system, then of the continents and the jeings inhabiting them, and the formation of the ani- mal in the egg? Is there not here the same law that we have recognized everywhere else ? Do we not see, first, a homogeneous fluid, then the appearance of ele- mentary organs at several points ; finally, their definitive combination in an organic whole? Yes, gentlemen, there is between the two series of facts all the difference of organic and inorganic nature ; but the formula of development is the same. The consequences of this fact are numerous ; let us point out the most important, those which are chiefly useful for our subject. 1. The law of development is applicable to the land, and to the continental forms. 2. In this order of facts, as elsewhere, the condition of a more active life is a greater variety of forms of nature, of relative situations ; in a word, of more varied contrasts. 3. Then other things being equal, we may consider, in advance, those continents as the best endowed, the best organized, the best prepared for the development of human societies, which present the most varied contours, THE LA.W OF CONTRASTS. 115 the most diversified forms, the most numerous contrasts, and the best characterized natural regions. There is here the same relation as between the inferior animal without special organs, and the supeior animal ~' ( Fahr. -38.9 -38.0 17.2 63.0 56.1 101.0 We see, by the rapid increase of the differences, how the variations augment, in proportion as we advance into the interior of the continents. If we corrpare the mean of the coldest with that of tne nottest month in the same places, the proportion becomes still more sensible. 124 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Coldest Month. Hottest Month. Difference deg. Cent. Difference, deg. Fahr. ( Cent. Faroe, . . < ( Fahr. 2.7 36.8 12.8 55 10.1 182 C Cent. Petersburg, < ' Fahr. -10.3 13.5 16.9 62.4 27.2 48.9 Yakutsk, . \ ( Fahr. -40.5 -40.9 20.3 63.5 60.8 108.5 The extremes of temperature differ even more, just as was to be expected. The highest degree of heat observed at Faroe is only 13.5 Cent., or 56.3 Fahr., and it freezes but little there, while the meteorologi- cal annals of Petersburg indicate heats of 33.4, and cold of -34.0 ; that is, extremes 67.4 Cent, or 121 Fahr. apart. It is at once the cold of the poles, and the heat of the tropics. At Yakutsk the mercury remains frozen often for whole weeks, implying a continued cold of at least 40 Fahr. below zero. Finally, the variations in the same day follow the same relative course ; while at Faroe they are scarcely a few degrees, it is not unusal to see, at Petersburg, vio- lent changes of from 30 to 40 Fahr. in the same day. In the lat. of 50 to 52 N., we find, at Penzance, on the south-west coast of England, and Barnaul, at the foot of the Altai, in Siberia, the following temperatures : Winter. 8umm e, Difference, deg. Cent. Difference, deg. Fahr. ( Cent. Fjiizance, . < ( Fahr. 7.0 44.6 15.8 60.4 8.8 15.8 1 ( Cent. Barnaul, . < ( Fahr. -14.1 6. 16.6 61.9 30.7 55.3 L LAND AND SEA CLIMATE. 125 The differences, as we see, are still considerable, but less than between Faroe and Yakutsk. Nearer the tropics, the climate of Madeira, compared with that of Cairo, in lat. 32 and 30 N., indicates 9 similar proportion. . Cent. Madeira, . j ffja Winter. Summer. Difference, deg. Cent. Difference, deg. Fahr. 16.3 61.3 21.1 70.0 4.8 8.7 C Cent. Cairo, . . . | Fabr 14.7 58.5 29.2 84.6 14.5 26.1 The differences between the seasons become less in the two localities respectively ; but the influence of the ocean and the continent is always very marked. The differ- ence between the extreme temperature, at Madeira only from 12 to 15 C. or 20 to 27 F., is in Egypt 31 G or 56 F. In the Sahara, ice has been known to form by the intensity of the radiation, and the heat to rise, by the wind of the desert, to the enormous height of 118 F., or 48 C. I will only cite one example more, and it shall be taken from the coasts of America, between 31 and 32* N. latitude. ( CenJ Bermudas. < ( Fabr. Winter. Summer. Difference. deg. Cent. Diffarenc*. dog. Fahr. 15.1 59.2 24.0 75.2 8.9 10* ( Cent. Natchez . ) 1 Fahr. 10.0 50.0 25.4 77.7 15.4 27.7 11* 126 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. If the climate of Natchez is less extreme, it is because this place is too near the ocean. We see, by these tables, how great is the influence of the sea upon the distribution of the temperature in the different seasons of the year, and in the course of the day. It tends to bring the extremes together, and to maintain at all times an equality of temperature. The sea climate is then equal, uniform, moist ; the sky often cloudy and rainy in the high latitudes. The land climate is excessive, unequal, with violent changes, dry ; the sky is usually clear. The astronomical climate, caused by the latitude, is then greatly modified by the presence or absence of the seas ; and the distribution of heat through the year, for any place whatever, depends essentially on its proximity to, or distance from, the oceans, and the relative fre- quency of the winds that blow from them. Who does not see the powerful influence such dif- ferences in the climatic conditions must exercise on all organized beings, and on vegetation in particular? While, in green Ireland, the myrtle grows in the open air, as in Portugal, without having to dread the cold of win- ter, the summer sUn of this same climate does not suc- ceed in perfectly ripening the plums and the pears, whicn grow very well in the same latitude on the conti- nent. On the coasts of Cornwall, shrubs as delicate as the laurel or the camelia. are green through the whole year in the gardens, in a latitude at which, in the interior of the continents, trees the most tenacious of life can alone brave the rig )r of the winters., But, on the other hand, the u ill?, clrnate of England cannot ripen the grape, almost AND SEA CLIMATE. 127 Jinde the same parallel where grow still the delicious wines of the Rhine. At Astracan, on the northern shore of the Caspian, Humboldt says, the grapes and fruits of every kind are as beautiful and luscious as in the Canaries and in Italy; the wines have all the fire of those of the South of Europe, while in the same latitude, at the mouth of the Loire, the vine hardly flourishes at all. And yet, to a summer capable of ripen- ing the southern fruits, succeeds a winter so severe, that the vine-dresser must bury the stock of his vines several feet beneath the earth, if he would not see them killed every year by the cold. Who does not remember that a part of the Russian army, despatched for the conquest of Khovaresmia, perished under the snows, and by the colds of 20 below zero of Fahrenheit, in a country situated under the same parallel as the Azores, where reigns a perpetual spring, and where, in the midst of winter, the vegetation and the flowers display their most brilliant colors? It is there that the camel, the inhabit- ant of burning deserts, and the reindeer of the frozen regions, meet together, and nature seems to have com- bined the contrasts of the climate of the poles and of the tropics. The oceanic climate, considered in the islands truly pelagic, favors the growth of an abundant vegetation, with large and numerous leaves, but little varied. The flora of the oceanic islands, whether from this cause or others pertaining to the mode of dissemination of the plants, is ocanty in species. The animul world is still more limited; all the large animal* the lion, the ele- phant, the rhinoceros, are wanting; the continents 128 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. islands form an exception, we conceive, because they are much more closely united to the continent than to the ocean. On man himself the influence of this moist and soft climate makes itself felt, by a relaxation of the tissues, by a want of tonic excitement. The insular Polyne- sians, as those of Tahiti and others, always exhibit the mild, facile and careless character which seems to be necessarily the result of such a climate. The continental climate does not give to the vegeta tion an appearance of such exuberance, but the variety of the soil, the frequency of alternations of plains, of table lands, of mountains, of valleys, of different ex- posures, secures to it an almost infinite variety of differ- ent species and forms. The dryer and warmer air concentrates the vegetable saps, elaborates them better, so to speak, and gives them that strong and aromatic character which the plants of the oceanic islands rarely possess. The animal is more vigorous and larger there, the species more numerous, the types more varied. The lion, the tiger, the elephant, all the kings of the brute creation, have never lived elsewhere than under the sky of the continents, or of the continental islands. Man himself is more animated, more active, more intelligent, endowed with a stronger will ; in a word, life is more intense, and raised to a higher degree, by the variety and the movement impressed upon it by the contrasts that form the very esssence of the nature of this climate. Thus we have two opposite worlds revealed to us, different in their form, their climate, and the organized beings belonging to them. The one, in the main, tends LAN1) AND WATER. 129 to uniformity, the other to variety. But please to remark, gentlemen, they are not only different from each other, but they stand, moreover, in the relation of supeiior and infeiior. The terrestrial element has for its portion an infinite variety of the forms of relief, of climate ; it is the seat of a more varied life ; thje birthplace and the habitual ibode of all the superior beings, from the vegetable up to nan. The ocean has uniformity for its characteristic ; it is the domain of the inferior beings, from the polype to the fish and the amphibious animal. Thus we have seen, in the geological development of the surface of oui globe, the oceanic element first prevailing, as the less perfect. The oceanic epoch is the embryonic epoch ; the insular epoch, analogous to the present oceanic world and its climate, is the second step in the physical life of the globe; the continental epoch, or the present epoch, alone carries it to the highest degree of development. And yet the ocean much surpasses the continents in extent ; it occupies more than two thirds of the surface of the globe. But this even is a sign of inferiority ; for mass and number, as we see in all the kingdoms of nature, never belong to the superior being. At present, gentlemen, we know, in their characters and in iheir contrast, the continental hemisphere and the oceanic hemisphere; the land and the water. Two diFerer t element^ are confronted ; they cannot remain indiffei ^nt ; they must act and react, and impart their wealth to each other. We are so much in the habit of seeing these two elements, the dry and the moist, pervading and penetrating one another, that we have 130 Ci-MPARATTVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. some difficulty in figuring to ourselves a state of things wheroin the two spheres would be total strangers. We forget that it is to the ocean we owe those beneficent rains, which refresh and vivify all nature ; those springs, which quench our thirst; those streams and rivers, which fertilize our valleys and our plains, and serve as highways for the commerce of the nations; those lakes, which spread so many charms over the countries encompassing their borders ; we scarcely dream that if the ocean ceased to send to the continents the supply of water necessary to their daily life, the parched and arid earth would soon see all the organized beings that live upon its surface perish in pain and anguish. Desert and death would succeed to life, and at a single stroke the globe would return to the embryonic state of the tril- obites, by the extinction of the superior classes of beings. In fact, all the continental waters come to us from the ocean. If they are fresh and sweet, it is because they have passed through the great laboratory of nature, by a simple process of distillation, which is the first fact i hat we ought to point out. The sun, the great awakener of life, the king of tiature, shoots his burning rays every day athwart the face of the waters. He causes the invisible vapors to rise, which, lighter than the air itself, unceasingly tend to soar into the atmosphere, filling it and constituting within it another aqueous atmosphere. In their ascend- ing movement, they encounter the colder layers of the higher regions of the atmosphere, which perform the part of coolers. Thjy arc condensed in vesicles, that be- jome visible under the form of clouds and fogs. Then THE ATMOSPHERE T1IE MEDIATOR 13l borne along by the winds whether invisible still, or in the state of clouds, they spread themselves over the. con- tinents, and fall in abundant rains upon the ground which they fertilize. All the portion of the atmospheric waters not expended for the benefit of the plants and of the animals, nor carried off anew into the ? tiDosphere by evaporation, returns by the springs and risers to Ilia ocean, whence it came. Thus the waters of the ocean, by this ever renewed rotation, spread themselves over the lands; the two elements combine, and become a source of life, far richer and much superior to what either could have produced by its own forces alone. But we see the earth and the water, the continents and the oceans, touch each other only at their margins A more intimate action upon each other is not possible, except by means of the most mobile of the elements, the atmosphere, performing, in nature, the part of medi- ator. The winds are the instruments of this impor- tant work, the bearers of this wondrous water which renovates unceasingly the face of the main-lands, and sustains thehnbeauty. ^Unhappy the countries to which they cannot come, still charged with some parts of their precious burthen. The inhabitants of the desert can alone tell us what price we should set upon the smallest portion of this treasure. To study the distribution of the rains and of the moisture on thfc surface of the globe, is to ssludy the course of the winds which are their carriers ; to this sub* ject, then, we shall turn our attention. LECTURE VI. The study of the di-ibution of the rains suppt ses that of the winds Difference of temperature the principal cause of t/ie winds Theory of the general winds The winds of the tropical regions Trade wind of the Pacific Ocean Trade wind of the Atlantic The monsoons of the Indian seas The ivinds of the temperate regions Two general currents; the return trade wind, or equatorial wind, and the polar currents The conflicts of the two, and the variable winds Lateral displacement of the currents, and their influence upon the temperature, the productions of the soil, and commerce The law of the rotation of the winds The atmospheric water falling back in rain Circumstances favorable to the precipitation of vapors The rains of the tropical zone The rains in the region of the monsoons Annual quantity of the rain water under the tropics Distribution and annual quantity of the rain in the temperate regions. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN : After having ascertained the characters of the two hemispheres, the oceanic and continental, \we have asked ourselves how they acted upon each other, how the moisture of the oceanic climate spread over the conti- nents to fertilize them. We have seen that the atmcs- phere alone could perform this part of mediator, and that the vapors fly on the wings of the winds to the very heart of the continents. To study the distribution of the rail waters as one of the most essential features of the climate of continents is, as we said, to engage in studying first the movements of the atmosphere, and the THE WINDS. 133 general system of the winds. This double study will be the more important, as it is intimately connected with the variations of the temperature, so that it will be almost sufficient to give us an idea of the principa kinds of climates presented by the different countries ;f the g'obe. If we knew only the winds that blow in our tem- perate regio.is, we should almost despair of arriving at the knowledge of any law regulating their course. What is more fickle, more capricious, than the winds, u hich suddenly change their direction, their force and lemperature, without apparent cause, and inaccessible to our means of observation 1 They are the symbols of changeableness itself. But it is not so when we enter upon the equatorial seas, where, from one end of the year to the other, a gentle and regular wind blows from the east to the west with great constancy, and carries slowly and without violence the ships from the coasts of the Old World to those of the New ; these are the trade winds. We know the astonishment and alarm of the companions of Columbus on noticing these winds, the constant direction of which towards the west seemed to render their return impossible. In the East Indian seas, the winds blow six months from the north-east, and six months from the south-west. These are the monsoons.. This regularity of the tropical winds indicates the ex- istence of permanent causes, of which it is, perhaps, possible to give some account. At any rate, the phe nomenon takes a certain course, annually repeated, ol which we ought to take cognizance; for, in case of need, the knowledge of the flow of the atmospheric 12 134 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. currents, independently of their causes, may be sufficier for our purpose. The winds are the consequence of a disturbance cf equilibrium in the layers of the atmosphere; and the tendency of their motion is to restore the equilibrium which has been destroyed; as soon as that is accom- plished the movement ceases, and everything settles into a calm. The more we study the causes of these disturbances of the atmospherical equilibrium, and of the winds, the more we see that they are reduced, essentially, almost entirely, to difference of temperature between neighbor- ing places. Here, again, the law of differences is the principle of movement, the condition of life. One of the chief conditions of the equilibrium of the atmosphere is, that any level layer of the atmosphere should have the same density at all points. If this condition is not fulfilled, the denser portions flow under :he less dense, while the lighter rise to the top. Now, this takes place when the different parts of the layer are unequally heated. At the point of greater warmth the air expands, becomes lighter; then, pressed by the neighboring layers, which have remained colder and heavier, it rises into the higher. The result of this process is an ascending current, and lateral currents rushing from all sides towards the spot where the tem- perature is more elevated. Let us take an example in nature, and see what passes on an island alone in the midst of the ocean. Let us remember that the land is heatod more readily ban tie sea In proportion as the sun rises above the THE WINDS. 135 horizon, the island becomes warmer than the neighbor- ing sea. Their respective atmospheres participate in the.se unequal temperatures, the fresh air of the sea rushes from all directions under the form, of a sea breeze, which makes itself felt along the whole coast, and the warmer and lighter air of the island will ascend into the atmosphere. During the night, it is the reverse. The island loses heat by radiation, and cools quicker than the sea. Its atmosphere, having become heavier, runs into that of the sea, under the form of a land breeze, and this interchange lasts until the temperature, and consequently the density, of the two atmospheres have again become the same. This is the phenomenon observed almost daily on nearly all the seaboards. What takes place here on a small scale in the space of a day, passes on a great scale between an entire con- tinent and the ocean from one season to another, be- tween the tropical regions and the temperate and polar regions in a permanent manner. Southern Africa is fiercely heated by the rays of a summer sun, while the seas of India and Asia experience the low temperature of the winter. The temperature of the tropics is almost always the same, and constantly higher than that of the rest of the globe. To each of these differences of tern perature, unequal in duration and amount, particular atmospheric currents, which are their consequence, correspond; to the difference of temperature between day and night, the diurnal breezes, whether along the coasts or in the interior of the continents, at the foot of the mountains ; to the difference of temperature between the ex^eme seasons, the monsoons, which one might 136 COMPARATIVE PHYSIC; L GEOGRAPHY. call the season breezes ; to the difference of temperature between the tropics and the poles, the trade \vinds, which a.re the great annual breeze, and the constancy of which is only the expression of the permanent inequality of the distribution of solar heat between the great atmospherical regions of our globe. A moments reflection will enable us to see that these differences of temperature, setting the whole atmos- phere in motion, at last connect themselves essentially with the geographical forms of our globe. It is the spherical form which causes the unequal distribution of the rays of the sun, and gives us the great zones of temperature of the astronomical climate, the torrid, temperate, and frozen zones. All the modifications of the solar climate must be referred principally to the geographical forms of the surface, to the distribution and to the relative situation of the continents and the seas. The general or trade winds are the consequence oi the general form of the globe; and their direction, & we shall see by-and-by, is given by its rotatory motion The monsoons and the breezes depend on the form ana the relative situation of the lands and the seas, which govern their intensity and direction. The variable winds are due to the same causes, and to the conflict between the general currents. The primary importance of the geographical forms, which is here revealed at the first glance, will become still mor evident in the course of our study. We saall commence our investigation with the trade TRADE WINDS. 137 winds, which may be called primitive, of first import- ance, and which embrace, so to speak, the entire atmo- sphere. In order to unfold this subject, I shall present the theory generally received by the most eminent me- teorologists ; that proposed by Halley and Hadley. Not that it is perhaps unassailable in the details, for we en- counter many difficulties when we undertake to ac- count by physical laws for the manner in which these great compensations are effected ; but the foundations of the hypothesis seem beyond a doubt, and the course of the phenomenon it teaches us to understand is here of the greatest importance. Let us consider the entire atmosphere as only one of those horizontal layers of air of which we have recently spoken. We see that one of the principal conditions of equilibrium of the molecules does not exist, since the different parts of it are unequally heated. The regions near the equator have a high temperature, and the heat goes on gradually diminishing in proportion as we ad- vance towards the poles. The atmosphere of the tropi- cal zone is more dilated, and consequently lighter than those of the temperate and polar regions. The height of the barometer at the level of the ocean, which meas- ures the weight of the atmosphere, is in fact less at the equator than in the temperate regions. We have noticed with surprise that the column of mercury, corrected for the effect of the gravity, keeps at a mean of 758 millimetres in the tropics, while it is 761 in the middle latitudes. This difference of three millimetres seems to give the measure of the force which incessantly ,12* 138 COMPARATIVE ?HYt^CAL GEOGRAPHY. impel? the air of the temperate regions towards the region of the equator. What is the consequence of this dynamic state of the atmosphere 1 The denser air of the colder regions presses that of the hot on two sides, the north and the south ; the tropical atmosphere rises, and here two lower cur- rents are established, from the poles to the equator, and two superior currents, which conduct the air of the equator towards the poles, to commence again the same rotation. We ought, then, to find, in the northern hem- isphere, a general wind coming from the north, and in the southern hemisphere, a wind coming from the south. But the motion of the rotation of the earth from the west to the east exercises an influence upon the direction of these currents, causing them to deviate from their original direction. The speed of rotation, almost nothing in the neighborhood of the poles, becomes greater for any place in proportion to its proximity to the equator. The masses of air rushing towards the equator have then an acquired speed less than that of the regions towards which they are directing themselves. At each step they are obliged to assume a greater rapidity of rotation ; but as, in virtue of the law of inertia, a certain time is necessary for this to take place, they find themselves at every step a little behindhand, that is, they are a little further towards the west than would be the case without this circumstance. These successive re- tardations, accumulating, change little by little the dhec- hon of the current from north to south of the no'.thern hemisphere, intc a south-west direction ; and tht direction oLtl.3 current from south to north of the southern T : ADE WINDS. 139 sphere, into a north-west current. These two ^eueral curren/s, of north-east and south-east, to cal' them, according to the usage, by the places whence they come, encountering each other in the tropical zone, com- bine together, and there results a general current from east to west, the great trade wind. The region where the two currents meet is in a kind of equilibrium, and it is marked by a zone of calms. The same cause makes the upper currents, setting from the equator towards the poles, swerve, but in the opposite way. They airive successively in the higher latitudes, with a velocity of rotation greater than they find there, and are always a little in advance of the earth's motion in each place ; that is, they swerve always more and more to the east. There will then result a current bearing to the north-east, or a south-west wind, in the northern hemisphere, and a current bearing to the south-east, or a north-west wind, in the southern hemisphere. The general course of the winds would doubtless show itself in all its regularity if the surface of the globe pre- sented only the uniform surface of the oceans. But the presence of the continents and their disposition modify the trade winds in many ways, and make the question very complicated. Let us examine the principal of these modifications, beginning with the trade wird of tho tropical regions. In this zone the regularity is greater and the disturbing causes are easier to detect. The winds of the tropical regions might be reduced to the great equatorial trade wind, blowing regularly from east to west all round the globe, if the continents did 140 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. not oai its passage and disturb its course at numerous points. The continental lands impede its march, and cut it, so to speak, into several pieces. The trade wind of the Pacific Ocean is arrested by Australia ; that of the I idian Ocean by Africa ; that of the Atlantic is stopped by America. We shall then rapidly examine the courses of the trade wind in each of these oceans ; for it is essentially at the surface of the ocean, where it reigns supreme, that we can learn its true character. The trade wind of the Pacific begins to make itself felt at a certain distance from the western coasts of America, and blows almost without interruption as far as the roasts of Australia. The north-east current is regular oetween 2 and 25 north latitude, which may be con- sidered as the southern and northern limits. But in the summer it rises a little further towards the north. It was this constant and gentle wind that carried the first navigator, Magalhaens, whose ship made the voyage rund the world, across this vast ocean, and that gave it the name of Pacific, which has been preserved to the present day. It is by this line still, that the Spanish galleons, laden with the gold of the New World, accom- plished, during more than two centuries, their peacefa. voyages from Acapulco to Manilla, sheltered at once from the tempests and from the attacks of the nations envious of so much wealth. The south-east current is rs regular south of the equator, but the limits are less Vnown ; it is found as far as the 21 of south latitude. The region of calms is found in the space comprised between the 2 north latitude and the 2 south, between [he two cui rents at their meeting. Here the ascending TRADE WINDS. 141 iurren seems to neutralize the horizontal; the air is in a sort of factitious equilibrium, that the least acci- dent violently disturbs. Thus, to a dead calm, suc- ceed those sudden tempests, those violent squalls, those whirlwinds, those tornadoes, as the Sparu'ards call them, which are the terror of navigators. Thunder storms, accompanied by showers, are of almost daily occurrence. The trade wind of the Atlantic is already modified by the position of this ocean lying between continents nearer to each other. It is, as it were, transported bodily several degrees towards the north. The northern limit of the north-east current is precisely fixed by the numerous nav- igators who traverse these seas ; it commences between 28 and 30 north latitude. Its southern limit is about 8 north latitude. The region of calms occupies, on the average, the space comprised between the 3 and 8 of north latitude ; but its position varies with the seasons ; in August it extends from 3 to 13 north lati- tude ; in February, from 1 to 6 north latitude. The south-east current always blows, then, beyond the equa- tor to the north. Humboldt attributes, apparently with reason, this anomaly, on the one hand, to the direction of the coasts of South America, which favors the extension of tlje south-east trade wind, and of the warm waters of Jie great equatorial current towards the north ; and, on the other, to the cooling influence of the high mountains of the continent, in the regions of the equator. The first of these causes tends to heat the sea of the Antilles; the seco id, to lower the temperature of the southern continent. The .-esuli of this difference must be to determine a cur* 142 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. rent of air from the south, removing the limit of the north-east trade wind further north. The thermal equa- tor, or the line of the greatest mean heat, passes, in fact, through the south of the sea of the Antilles. The existence of the upper trade wind, coming from the west, or of the return trade wind, which has often been doubted, seems to be proved in this ocean by twr facts, often cited and very conclusive. The volcano of the island of St. Vincent, belonging to the lesser Antilles. in one of its eruptions hurled a column of volcanic cinders to a great height in the atmosphere ; the inhabitants of the Barbadoes, situated east of St. Vincent, saw, with astonishment, the cinders falling in abundance upon their island. The 25th of February, 1835, the volcano of Cosiguina, in Guatemala, threw into the air such a quantity of cinders, that the light of the sun was dark- ened during five days ; a few days after, they were seen to cover the streets of Kingston, in Jamaica, situated north-east of Guatemala. In these two cases it is evi- dent that the cinders had reached the region of the upper trade wind, and had been carried by it from west to east, in the opposite direction to the lower trade wind. At the summit of the Peak of Teneriffe, most travellers have found a west wind, even when the north-east trade wind prevailed on the seaboard. The winds of the Indian Ocean experience still greater perturbations than those of the other two oceuns of the -ropics. If I have elsewhere called the Pacific the most oceanic of the oceans, the Atlantic the most maritime, I will call the Indian Ocean th * most mediterranean. It THE MONSOONS. 143 : .s. m reality, only a half ocean, a great gull, jurrounded on the sides by huge continental masses ; the mighty Asia, with its peninsulas and its table 'ands, on the north, Africa on the west, Australia on the east. Asia prevents the oceanic trade wind of the north-east from arriving there, and the influence of the lands and of the vast plateaus remains greatly preponderant. Thus the movements of the atmosphere depend upon the unequal heating of the neighboring continents during the extreme seasons of summer and winter, which are opposite in the continents situated in the north and in the south. The eastern trade wind in this way changes into a sort of double semi-annual breeze, blowing regularly six months in one direction, and six months in another ; this is called monsoon, from the Arabic word mous&in, signifying sea- son. It will be easy to understand this effect, if you call to mind what we have said of the land and sea breezes, that spring up on the islands and along the sea-shores. While Africa, south of the equator, receives the ver- tical rays of the southern summer sun in December, January, and February, Southern Asia on the north of the equator, and the neighboring seas, are feeling the low temperatures of winter. The air rushes in from the colder regions of the Indies and of Upper Asia towards the warmer regions of Southern Africa, and the trade wind is transformed into a north-easter, which blows as long as this difference of temperature lasts. It is for India the winter or north-east monsoon. The reverse lakes place when India and Asia are heated by the burning sun of the northern summer, and when Africa is cooled by the southern winter. The ail blows towards 144 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. the places jvhere the temperature is more elevated ; it is for India the summer or south-west monsoon. Hence, in place of a constant current setting from east to west, the relative position of the lands, combined with the action of the earth's rotation, gives occasion to two periodical winds ; the monsoon of the south-west, blowing from April to October, during the northern sum- mer, and the north-east monsoon, blowing from October to April, during the southern summer. In the southern part of the Indian Ocean, which is not under the influ- ence of the lands, the south-east trade wind blows quite regularly through the whole year. The transition from one monsoon to another, depend- ing upon the course of the sun, does not occur at the same period in places situated under different latitudes ; but the approach of this critical season is always heralded by variable winds, succeeded by intervals of calm, and by furious tempests and whirlwinds, proving a general disturbance of the atmosphere. The phenomenon of the monsoon, or the change of winds according to the seasons, takes place in like man- ner between the Indies and New Holland. But it is less regular and less marked than the Indo- African system we have just described. The seas of Southern China and the great archipelago of Sunda and of the Moluccas, by their position feeling at the same time the influence of the trade wind of the great ocean, and of the double system of the monsoons of the Indies and Australia, it is easily conceived that we must" seek in this circumstance the cause of the tempests and typhoons which desolate this sea more than any other upon the turface of the globe. WINDS OF THE TEMPERATE REGIONS. 145 We see that the great trade wh.- does not exhibit its normal manner, except in the Pacific Ocean, far from the t and. It is driven towards the north in the valley of the Atlantic, or is entirely broken up in the Indian Ocean. The influence of the lands cannot be mistaken. us pass to the winds of the temperate regions and of the middle latitudes. Here, as we have said, the regularity disappears by degrees; the secondary influence assumes more impor- tance still ; it is the theatre of the incessant conflict between the polar winds and those of the tropics. They blow alternately, without any well established rule, and pass, often abruptly and without transition, from one point of the horizon to another. If the equatorial regions are those of the constant and perio Heal winds, :,he temperate regions are those of the variable winds. Nevertheless, when we compare the number of times (he winds blow from each quarter of the horizon during the course of a year, we discover that in the northern hemisphere two directions tend to prevail over all the others, and those are the winds from the west and south-west, and from the east and south-east. It is known that in the northern Atlantic the west winds fireval 1 to such a degree that the average passage of the packet ships from America to Europe is cnly from twenty to twenty-three days, while from Europe to A merica it is from thirty-five to forty. It is generally agreed to consider these winds from the south-west as having their origin in the return of the air of the tropics. The upper trade wind cools in the high ta 146 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL G^C"GRAPHY. regions of the atmosphere, and descends ftgain to the ui- face, reaching it about 30 N. latitude, or even still further north, during the summer. In winter, the limit where the winds from the north-east and south-west changfe place, is marked by variable winds and calms, which the navigators, coming from the north, ordinarily en- counter before entering the region of the trade winds. The long Atlantic valley is the grand rout ; of the winds of the equator ; they spread themselves there without obstacle, beyond the influence of the lands ; and the line of the coasts of America, as the direction of the ocean itself, coincides with that impressed on them by the earth's rotation. They advance as far as the high iati tudes of Norway, near the polar regions, and bathe al the western coasts of Europe in their soft and humid air, The northward inflection of the lines of mean equal heat, or of the isothermal lines, which you see traced on the map before you, (See plate i.,) shows us at a glance the considerable influence of the winds upon the temperature of the Atlantic, and of the western coasts of the Old World. It is such, that in Europe some of the cereal grains grow even at Cape North in the lati- tude of Boothia Felix, about the coldest point ascertained on the globe ; and that the brilliant cities of Stockholm and of Petersburg flourish under the parallel of the regions of eternal ice in Northern Labrador. What I have just said of the return of the trade wii d in the Atlantic, is true again for the Pacific Ocean. The winds of the. west and south-west prevail in the middle latitudes; they strike the western coasts of North Amer- ica and carry thither the soft temperature belonging WINDS OF THE TEMPERATE LEGIONS. 147 to them. Sitka, in Russian America, at 57 N. lat., has the same average temperature with the shores of Lake Ontario, 44 N. lat., but much milder winters ; the valley of the Columbia, in Oregon, already displays the most verdant prairies ; while, under the same latitude, Lake Superior presents only snow and ice, and the whole desolate aspect of an arctic region. It is, then, to the normal direction of the return trad* wind that we must refer the well-known phenomenon of the higher temperature of the western shoies of the con- tinents of the two worlds, compared to that of their eastern sea-boards. But, for the same reason, this dif- ference, though very great in the high latitudes, disap- pears by degrees as we approach the tropics. But the air of the polar countries, tending continually to flow towards the warmer regions, gives birth to cur rents, the normal direction of which is from north- eatt to south-west, from the cause we have already explained. These north-easterly currents follow, by preference, the path of the continents, as the currents of the equator follow that of the ocean. They have the cold tempera- ture of the places whence they come, and unless high mountain^ interpose an obstacle, they refresh the conti- nental regions for a great distance. Cast a glance upon this map of Europe, where the lines of equal mean tem- perature are traced, (See plate i.,) and you will see them strongly bending towards the south opposite to the broad passage opened to the polar winds between the Caucasus and the mountains of Transylvania; that is, afl the borders of the Black Sea, the northern coast ol Asia Mrior, the eastern coast of Greece, owe to them a lower 148 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. temperature than that found at the same latitude ni the neighboring countries, sheltered against the attacks of this icy Boreas, by hij-h chains of mountains. The polar winds play equally a very important part in the climate of North America. No other contir.ent offers them a more open path from one end to the other of its extent. From the borders of the Frozen Ocean, to the subtropical regions as far as the Gulf of Mexico, 10 chain of mountains opposes their unobstructed sweep: for thsy are all directed from the north to the south. Almost no spot is sheltered from their sudden and cold attacks. Nevertheless, owing to the disposi- tion of the Atlantic coasts, retreating on the north-east, and the south-west direction taken by all the cur- rents of the north, the west and the south-west bear the first shock. These polar winds, it seems, strike obliquely against the mass of the Rocky Mountains, run along their slopes, and, being guided and reflected by this high chain, descend under the form of a north-west wind into the valley of the Mississippi, accompanied by cold and storms, and advance towards the Atlantic coast. In this route they encounter the return trade wind, the south-west current, which they take in flank ; and I incline to think, that to this conflict are cwing some of those tempestuous storms, revolving from east to west, the course of which has been so well describee by Mr. Redfield. Others, as the same learned man has triumphantly demonstrated, have their origin in the tropical seas. If this conflict of the two currents of air often com- mences at tl e south of the continent, and seems to ad- WINDS OF THE TEMPERATE REGIONS. 149 tfance towards the north, it is by reason of its foini and jf the disposition of its shores, approaching each other towards the south and greatly diverging towards the north. The western coast and the Rocky Mountains trend thus to the north-west; the Atlantic coast to the north-east. Now, supposing the mass of air, turned aside by the Rocky Mountains, to advance from west to east on a line nearly parallel to this chain, it first strikes the Atlantic region in the south, then suc- cessively reaches points more and more towards the north. This conflict of polar and equatorial winds, opposite in character and direction, gives to our climate one of its most characteristic features, that changeableness, that extreme variety of temperature, of dryness, and of moisture, of fair weather and of foul ; that uncertainty of the seasons which always keeps the merchant and the farmer in anxious suspense, between the hope of a good harvest and the fear of a dearth. Not only are the variations in the same- year consider- able, but they are still more so from one year to another. The system of these currents oscillates from east to west, and changes place. The polar winds will prevail in a country, and will endanger the crops by the pro- longed dryness of their atmosphere ; while further east or west the trade wind will spread fertility by its benefi- cent rains. Or the opposite : the south winds acquire such a preponderance, that the harvests perish by the moisture, while at a somewhat greater distance, on the limit of the same wind, nature lavishes all her treasures upon the laborer. It has been remarked that a miici 13* 150 CO IPARATIVE PHYSICAL GIOGRiPH'Y. winter in Eu;ope corresponds frequently to a severe winter in America and Asia ; while the mildness of the winter in America affords a presumption of a colder winter 3n the other side of the Atlantic. The years 1816 a id 1817 were marked, as is known, in the history of Euupe, by a general famine and distress. The wet was such that the harvests failed entirely. But the south-west wind, which blew without cessation ever the western part of the continent, and drenched it in its vapors, did not extend beyond Poland ; and it was the South of Russia whose corn supported famished Europe for many long months. Then was revealed the commercial importance of these countries, hitherto unknown, and constantly increasing since. Who does not still remember the immense impulse given to the commerce between Europe and America, by the drought of 1846, which damaged the corn crop in Europe, while America had an abundant harvest? These examples alone tell us the important part played in the life of the nations by those variations of the atmospheric currents belonging to our temperate countries. In the middle latitudes of the northern hemisphere, there are, properly speaking, only two normal winds, that of the north-east and that of the south-west. The winds blowing in other directions, are local winds, or transition winds, from one of the general currents to the other. Professor Dove has shown, that, in Europe at least these winds succeed each other in an order always the same, which he has called the law of rotation of he winds. This will be easily understood if we emember that in advancing along their course, the DISTRIBUTE. .N OF THE RAINS. I5l B3Uth-west wind tends always to become more west, and the north-east more and more east ; we shall see that the result of this disposition ought to be, wherevei they meet each other and change places, a rotation from west by north to east, and from east \ y south to west. In the place of the conflict of the tW3 currents, the wind will then blow successively from these differ ent regions, and in this order, until it is established in the direction of that one of the currents which has overpowered the other. But no one of these transition winds blows for any great length of time. In the southern hemisphere the order of succession is the reverse. The course of the winds being explained, it will be easy to understand the distribution of the rains on the surface of the globe. v j The winds sweep in all directions, as we have just seen ; they carry with them into the places where they go, the temperature and the moisture of the places whence they come. A sea breeze will be always moist and relatively temperate ; a land wind, dry and extreme, whether in cold or in heat. The first, ordinarily, is the herald of rain; the second, fair weather. It is the atmosphere that brings nto connection the most dis tant countries of the globe, with regard to temperature and humidity, and softens all the differences by blending opposite and extreme characters. We have seen how the atmosphere is charged with the vapors of the ocean, but we have not stated how it happens that these vapors are condensed anew, to fall 152 , COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPI ST. again in r?.in. This depends chiefly on a property of the air, of which we must say a word. A determinate volume of air, a cubic foot, for ex tmple, at a given temperature, has the propeity of receiving a certain quantity of vapor, of water in an invisible state, or, as we call it, humidity. When it contains all the humidity it is capable of receiving, it is said to be saturated. If you increase the temperature. it wiJi be able to hold more ; if, on the contrary, you Io\v3r the temperature, you diminish its capacity for vapor, anJ, in the given case, a part of the vapor would be condensed and deposited in small drops of rain along the outside of the vessel. The moist air here is like a sponge filled with water ; reduce its volume by pressure, there will run out a certain quantity of water ; in the air laden with moisture the diminution of the tempera- ture takes the place of pressure. We can easily conceive the application of this prin- ciple in meteorology. A warm and moist wind, the south-west of the Atlantic, for example, setting from the tropics, comes in contact with the polder air of the temperate regions ; its temperature is lowered ; it can no longer contain as great a quantity of vapor. A portion of its humidity is immediately condensed into clouds, then falls in rain. Or the opposite ; a wind charged with clouds arrives in a warmer and dryer air; comes, for example, from the Mediterranean to the Sahara, as is the case during three fourths of the year ; the burning air of the desert, having a much greater capacity for vapor, dissipates mstantly all these clouds, that break up, vanish, nnd C STRIBUT1ON OF THE RAINS. 13d disappoint the excited expectation of the traveller, who hoped for refreshing rains. Do the moist winds encounter an elevated obstacle, a high chain of mountains, a plateau ? Forced to ascend their slopes, high into the atmosphere, they find there a colder air, which condenses their vapors, and the rain flows down along the sides. The wind passes over to the other side of the chain ; it arrives dry and cold, deprived of all its moisture, without clouds. The same wind thus brings rain on one side, and fair weather on the other. This is what happens every day on the two sides of the Scandinavian mountains. It is even possible that an ascending current, if very violent, may hurry the abundant vapors of the lower layers to the more elevated layers of the atmosphere. The vapors are afterwards condensed there, and fall back in torrents of rain. Such at least is the explanation Humboldt gives of the rains of the tropics. Aided by these preliminary remarks, we are enabled lo account for the general phenomena regarding the distribution of rains, which I desire to explain to you. We will therefore devote the remainder of our time this evening to following out the general march of this phenomenon in the tropical regions and the temperate zones. The temperature, the winds, and the rain, having an mtinale connection each with the others, and playing alternately thj3 part of cause and effect "he earth, in the point }f view now under consideration, is divided, as in the point o* view of temperature ? nd winds, into two great zones the one, that of periodical rains, or of the L54 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. tropical regions ; the other, that of continuous rains, o* of the temperate regions. In the equatorial regions, where the course of tempera- tures and winds is regular, that of the rains is equally so; and instead of seasons of temperature, which are there unknown, the inhabitants draw the distinguishing line between the dry and the rainy season. Whenever the trade wind blows with its wonted regu- larity, the sky preserves a constant serenity, and a deep azure blue, especially when the sun is in the opposite hemisphere ; the air is dry, and the atmosphere cloudless. But in proportion as the sun approaches the zenith, the trade wind grows irregular, the sky assumes a whitish tint, it becomes overcast, clouds appear, sudden showers, accompanied with fierce storms, ensue. They occur more and more frequently, and turn -at length into floods of rain, inundating the earth with torrents of water. The air is at this time so damp that the inhabitants are in an incessant vapor bath. The heat is heavy and stifling ; the body becomes dull and enervated ; this is the period of those endemical fevers that destroy so great a number of the settlers who have come from the temper- ate zones. But vegetation puts on a new freshness and vigor; the desert itself becomes animated, and is over- spread for a few months with enchanting verdure, whic 1 furnishes pasture to thousands of animals. Nevertheless, ere long, the sun, in his annual progress, advances to pour down his vertical rays upon other places ; the rains diminish, the atmosphere becomes once more serene, the trade wind resumes its regularity, and the heaven shuts its windows once again until Ihe following season. DISTRIBUTION OF THE RAINS. 15 Such is the normal course of the tropical rains. They fa.... everywhere during the passage of the sun through the zenith. The heat is then so violent that the ascend- ing current neutralizes the horizontal trade wind. It hu-Hes the vapors to the heights of the atmosphere, and the upper limit of the trade wind, where they are. con- densed and tall back in a deluge of rain. Now, as the sun passes and repasses from one tropic to the other, it follows that there is, in most intermediate places, a two- fold rainy season, the two periods of rain being more or less closely connected in point of time. In India the course of the rain is not so regular ; it depends entirely on the monsoons. The western coast of Deccan, the coast of Malabar, has the season of the rains during the monsoon of the south-west, which brings thither the vapors of the ocean; that is, during the northern summer. It has the dry season during the monsoon of the north-east. During the winter, the mon- soon of the south-west ascends the slopes of the western Ghauts, and causes, in the heights, violent storms and very abundant rains. Along the coast of Coromandel, on the contrary, it is the north-east monsoon which con- ducts the rains, with the vapors of the Sea of Bengal, and the south-west monsoon brings the dryness. These two coasts of the peninsula have then their seasons reversed. One has the dry weather when the other has rain, and reciprocally. The table land cf Deccan par- takes of the two characters ; the fall of water is moro variable, and there are often tvo periods of abundant r.ins. 156 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. We see here that the relative position of the lands and tl.e seas regulates the seasons. The quantity of water that falls from the atmosphere in the 'tropical regions during some months is enormous, if we compare it with that which we are accustomed to see wetting the soil of our own countries. It has teen calculated, that, on the average, there fall annually in the tropics of the Old World 77 inches of water, and 115 in tropical America. The mean for the equatorial region would be 96 inches. But the annual quantity of rain received in some local- ities, and under the influence of certain circumstances, is sometimes much more considerable. At Paramaribo, in Dutch Guiana, it falls to the amount of 229 inches of water, or 19 feet. At St. Louis de Maranhao, in Brazil, 276 inches have been received, or 23 feet. But the greatest quantity ever observed is that of Mahabaleshwar, in the western Ghauts, south of Bombay, at the height of 4,200 feet ; it rises to the enormous number of 302 inches. A layer of 25 feet of water would have been formed by the rain waters, if they had not gradually run off. These results are the more astonishing, as all this water falls in the space of only a few months, and, so to speak, at once. It has been seen to fall at Cayenne 21 inches in a single day. This is nearly as much as falls during the whole year in the northern latitudes. This is the reason why, notwithstanding the abundance of the rains, the number of clear days is much more considerable than in our climates. Even during the rainy season, the sun shows himself nearly every day, DISTRIBUTION OF THE RAINS. 157 and many days pass tvithout a single drop of water falling from the atmosphere. We may conceive the prodigious effect such violent showers must produce upon the rivers. Who does not now understand the secret of the overflowings of the Nile, once so mysterious, which are due to the cir- cumstance that the region of its sources receives the tropical rains ) Floods of forty feet rise and upwards are frequent at this season in the great rivers of South America; the llanos of the Orinoco are changed into an inland sea. The Amazon inundates to a vast distance the plains it flows through. The Paraguay forms lagoons, which, like those of Xarayes, are more than three hundred miles in length, and ooze away during the dry season. The quantity of water contained in the tropical atmos- phere in the condition of transparent gas, is always considerable. It is in proportion to the heat, which, being always very great, augments its capacity to a verj high degree. Even under the most serene sky, the aL is still abundantly provided with it. It is this invisible water which, being absorbed by the plants, and taken up by their large leaves, produces the vigorous vegeta- tion, and causes the eternal verdure that fills us with astonishment, under a sky devoid of rain, and cloudless during more than half the year; while in our climates, from the failure of rain for a few weeks only, we see ail verdure languish, and all the flowers perish for the lack of moisture. The distribution of rains in the temperate regions flers a jsrfect contrast to that of the tropics. Here, 14 f58 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL OEOGRAPUY. throughout the whole year, the earth is watered by th rains of heaven, although sometimes irregularly. But these are variable, as are the winds and the tempera- ture, and secondary circumstances have much influence over them. The further we recede from the tropics, the more do we find that this periodical character disappears. But we have few established facts as to the mode in which the transition is made from one region to another. North of the tropics we find winter rains, which doubtless are caused by the meeting of the upper trade winds with the north-easters. The strife of these gives birth to heavy rain storms. It is so at Madeira and Lisbon. Yet further north, Italy, and some portion of the Med- iterranean, have spring and autumnal rains, which Dove attributes to the transit of the south-west trade wind before and after the solstice. In Germany, according to the same authority, the same cause produces frequent rains at the period of the solstice, or summer rains, denoting the highest point attained by the trade wind in those latitudes at the greatest decimation of the sun towards the north. But it must be admitted that the general charactei of the rains of those regions, their periods, and their frequency, appear especially to depend on a thousand geographical features which influence them greatly. The quantity of water held by the atmosphere of the temperate regions is much smaller than that in the air of the tropics, The vegetation, therefore, cannot endure the waU of rain for any length of time, as I have DISTRIBUTION OF THE RAINS. 155 observed, and the quantity of rail, water falling in them is also greatly inferior. The mean is 34 inches in the Old World, and 39 in temperate America, or 35 for the whole zone. There are causes, however, to he pointed out hereafter, which produce the fall of twice and even thrice that quantity at certain points. The number of fair days is also far smaller. But if these fruitful showers are not granted to us with the same prodigality as in the tropical regions, they are, at least, better distributed throughout the year, in a manner more equal, more economical, and more advantageous to vegetation and the requirements of alJ organized beings. LECTURE VII. \Li>diJKatin,: . f the general laws of distribution of the rains De crease of tht quantity of rain waters and of rainy days, from tht seaboard touards the inlands Numerous exceptions and tkeir causes Influence of the mountains and t/ie table lands in the two worlds Distribution of rain in South America ; in North America ; in Africa ; in Europe ; in Asia ; in Australia Special hygromet- rical character of each- continent Difference between the Old and tJts New World, corresponding to the nature of their relief Mixture of the continental and the oceanic element Influejtce on organized beings Superiority of the zone of contact, or the maritime zone. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN : The investigation we attempted to make in the last lecture, has convinced us of the intimate connection existing between the temperatures and the winds,. and between both and the 'distribution of rain over the surface of the earth. In this last point of view we have recognized the existence of a zone of periodical jains, corresponding to the torrid regions of the equa- tor, wherein the rains fall in abundance, arid within the space of a few months ; and of two zones of continuous rains corresponding to the temperate and cold regions, in which they fall in smaller quantity, and are more uni- formly distributed through the entire course of the year. It remains for us, this evening, to give some account of the numerous modifications these general laws are made to undergo, by the extent of the continents, the forms ot taeir relief, and their position relatively to the DISTRIBUTION OF THE RAINS. 16l general winds which are th.3 dispensers of the rain waters. The map before us, on which it has been attempted to express, by deeper or lighter tints, the relative abun- dance of the rain that falls in each region of the globe, indicates these zones in a very clear manner; it will .;erve further to illustrate what remains to be said on this subject. (See plate iv.) The winds of the ocean striking the coasts of the con- tinents, and moistening them with their waters, pene- trate equally into the interior, transport thither the -ripors with which they are charged, and spread life and freshness on their path. But in proportion as they advance on their continental journey, they become more and more scant and sparing of these beneficent waters : their provision is exhausted, and if the way is too long, if the continent is too extended, they arrive at its centre, as arid and parched as a land wind. This first result appears so natural, that it seems almost useless to exhibit it by figures. Nevertheless, we will let direct observation speak, that the fact may not rest vipon assertion alone. Here is the quantity of rain water received annually in the different parts of the same con- tinent, more or less remote from the seaboard. I add Also the number of rainy days, to complete these obser- vations. As far as possible, I choose countries situated under similar latitudes, in order to render them capable of a more rigorous comparison in this point of view ; for, otherwise, the quantity of rain water diminishing in proportion to th-3 distance from the torrid regions of the equator, it woul 1 be easy to attribute incorrectly to the 14* 162 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGKAPH1T. distance i f om the seas a difference that might be only the effect of a position more or less towards the north. The n;ean quantity of rain received auring a year, and the number of rainy days, are as follows, in the countries situated between 45 and 50 N. lat. of the Ok 7 World: Depth of Rain in inches. 1 Number of Rainy Days. 32 156 25 152 Eastern France *. 22 147 20 150 17 111 14 90 ? 60 We see that, in leaving the coasts for the interior of the continents, there is a gradual diminution of the quantity of rain and of rainy days. If we penetrate to the centre of the vast continent of Asia, we find the dryness there almost absolute a desert. In North America, the observations are as yet so few and so recent, that it is impossible to deduce from them /ery exact averages. Besides, as we shall soon see, this continent being exposed at the same time to the winds of th.3 Atlantic on the east, and to those of the Gulf of Mexico on the south, receives rain waters from both directions. This is especially true of the middle region, situated west of the Alleghanies. In this way the decrease, owing to the distance from the Atlantic, is dis- guised by the additional rain water brought thHher by the winds of the Gulf of Mexico. These various circum- Bta.ices tend in a singular degree to render the distribu- DISTRIBUTION OF THE RAINS. 163 tion of the rains more uniform in this part of the conti- nent. Nevertheless, the following numbers seem to indicate that the influence of the continental position is not annihilated. The annual quantity of rain water between 41* and 43* north lat. is, at Depth of Rate in inchu. 38 36 30 Again, between lat. 38 and 40 north. Depth of Rain in inches. Philadelphia, Pa., and Lambertville, N. J., . . 45 41 ^2 We may say, then, that, in general, a country is the better watered, the nearer it is to the seaboard; and, from moist and verdant Ireland to the desert of Gobi, we find all possible gradations between the extremes of moisture and aridity. This indubitable general law, however, undergoes numerous modifications, which infinitely diversify the nature of the climates in regard to tht r wetness or drought, causing the most surprising anomalies. On the shore of the Caribbean Sea, on the coast of Venezuela, is situated the city of Cumana, which has beo me celebrated in the annals of science by the 164 COMPARATIf J PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. f researches made there by Humboldt. That city, in the midst of the regions of the tropics, where the rams are so abundant, in spite of its maritime position, receives only 8 inches of water, while very near it, a little further south-east, in Guyana, there is a fall of more than 20C inches. In this same South America, so plentifully watered, we see on the opposite side, south-west of the Andes of Bolivia, a long and narrow band destitute of rain, stretching several hundred miles along the coast ; it is the desert of Atacama. Not a drop of water comes to i jfresh this thirsty land, though lying upon the sea- ,oast, and under the same latitude as the plains of Upper Paraguay, which is inundated with rain. The plateaus of Upper California are nearer the sea than the centre of the valley of the Mississippi, and, nevertheless, they are dry and parched, while the latter is fertilized by copious rains. Here are causes, then, which disturb the general law, or rather which modify it in favor of variety of climates ; these causes are the forms of relief of the soil, the mountain chains and the plateaus, and their disposition relative to the damp winds. A wind loaded with vapor and clouds may pass over vast continental plains, without dissolving into rain, 'recause the temperature in a plain may remain the same through long spaces, or even be higher than that of the sea wind crossing it. There is, then, no cause of condensation of the vapors. We have an example of this in the Etesian winds, which bear the vapors of the Mediterranean into Sahara. They havo THE AAINS, INFLUENCE CP MOUNTAINS. 165 no sooner passed the threshold of the desert, than the dry and burnt air, as we have already said, dissipates even the smallest cloud. But it is not the same when the moist winds meet e'jevated objects, chains of mountains, and high table lands, in their transit. Forced to ascend along their sides, they are uplifted into the colder regions of the atmosphere ; they feel the pressure of the air, which is less there, and the expansion of the gases composing hem further increases the cooling; the air loses its opacity for holding the same quantity of vapors as .3fore. The latter are condensed into clouds, which crown the summits of the mountains, and trail along their sides; and they melt soon into abundant rains. If the sea wind passes the chain, it descends on the opposite side, dry and cold; it has lost all its marine character. The mountain chains are, then, the great condensers, placed by nature here and there along the continents, to rob the winds of their treasures, to serve as reservoirs for the rain waters, and to distribute them afterwards, as they are needed, over the surrounding plains. Their wet and cloudy summits seem to be untiringly occupied with this important work. From their sides flow num- berless torrents ,and rivers, carrying in all directions wealth and life. Every system of mountains cecomeb the centre of a system of irrigation, of water courses, which gives to its neighborhood a va.ue of primary importance. This power of condensation is expressed by the fact, that in the heights of the mountains there falls mor* 166 COMP RATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. water than on tl.3 slopes, and at their foot there falls more than in the neighboring plains. Further, the side of the chain exposed to the sea winds receives a quantity of rain much beyond that which falls on the opposite side ; so that the great systems of mountains not only divide the spaces, but separate different, and often c pj>o- site, climates. The examples of this action of mountain chains on, lac condensation of the rains, are numerous in nature. I have only an embarrassment jof choice. Nevertheless, I am compelled to borrow them from the Old World, because the exact observations I need are there more numerous. The Alps form a vast semicircle on the north of Italy, wherein the warm and moist winds of the south-west, coming from the Mediterranean and the ocean, pour themselves as into a funnel. Before passing this lofty barrier and the snow-capped summits, these winds lose their vapors, which fall in copious rain on all the south- ern slope of the chain. While 36 inches of water fall in the plains of Lombardy, there falls an average of 58 inches at the very foot of the Alps. In the north-eas comer, forming an angle, where the vapors accumulate at. Tolmezzo, in the valley of the Tagliamento, a quantity of 90 inches annually is -received, which reminds us of that of the tfopical regions. Now, this au.mber is u very constant one, for it is the average of twenty-two years' observations. The northern foot of the Alps hns only 35 inches. Tb.3 Apennines repeat almost the same phencmenon. They form an arch, the convexity of which is marked THF RAINS, INFLUENCE OF MOUNTAINS. 167 by the curve of the Gulf of Genoa and the valley of the Arno. The summits, which rise from 4,000 to 6,000 feet, arrest the winds cf the sea, and there fall at their southern foot 64 inches of water, while only 26 inches fall on the northern descent, in the plains south of the Po. The same relation exists further south, between the western and eastern slopes of the same chain; on the former it rains 35 inches of water: on the lattei only 27. We have already quoted Scandinavia as giving one of the most striking examples of this kind of phenomena. The elevation and the length of that chain, its lofty frozen table lands, which a long day's journey is hardly sufficient to cross, are an insurmountable barrier to the vapors brought thither on the Norwegian coast by the south-west wind from the Atlantic. They are condensed almost entirely upon the shores incessantly plunged in drizzling fogs. At Bergen, a day of sunshine is a rarity, in the midst of almost constant rains that darken the atmosphere. Thus we have there a fall .of 82 inches of water, an enormous quantity, especially for such high latitudes. All the wester: i coast receives nearly as much, and owes to the temperature of this wind, and to the caloric disengaged by so active a condensation of vapors, the remarkably soft and equable climate which distinguishes it.- On the southern coast, and in Sweden, there faL only 21 inches of water, and the same south- west wind brings thither clear weather and cold. The same wind carries rain on one side, and fair weather on the other. In the East Indies, we encounter the majestic chain 168 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of the Himalaya, the most massive and lofty on the globe. The winds of the tropics, passing over the plains of the Ganges, reach it, water the southern slopes, fertilize the inland valleys, and support the most wonderful ver- dure, up to the limit of eternal snows. But beyond, the table lands of the region of the sacred lakes and of Katchi and Tangout, indicate by their drought that they are deprived of this beneficent influence. Katmandoo, at a third of the height, has 51 inches of rain ; Delhi, in the plains of the Ganges, has only 23. At the north-east angle of the Indo-Persian Sea, the south-west trade wind accumulates its vapors on the flanks of the Ghauts. The effect of this chain, which, however, has no great elevation, is such, that, after the following examples, we shall be able to dispense with any more. At Bombay, on the west coast, the rain falls 80 inches ; 302 have been received at Mahabaleshwar, on the mountains, at an elevation of 4,200 feet, as we have already said ; this quantity is reduced to 26 inches on the other side of the chain, at Darwar, on the table land of Deccan. But we have said that the plateaus also have a marked effect upon the distribution of the rain waters. Their borders act as the mountains, and their surface, heated more than the layers of air of the same level, absorb the little vapor which ascends to this height, without con- densing it ; their extent, finally, and their elevation, tend to impede the access of the oceanic vapors, and to in- crease the drought. These differences are already marked THE RAINS, INFLUENCE OF THE TABLE LANDS. 169 in plateaus so little elevated as Spain, whose central plains are from 2,000 to 2,500 feet above the sea. While the south-west coast of Portugal, Lisbon for example. is watered with 27 inches of rain, the border of the table land has only 11 inches ; and soon, quitting l he verdant region of the seaboard, we ascend the arid ylai ns of Estramadura, of La Mancha, and of Castile, at Jhc centre of which, Madrid receives not more than 10 inches of rain water. No other place in Europe is sc badly provided in this respect. And, nevertheless, side by side with this minimum of rain, we find the greatest quantity that has ever been made out on this continent. At the western foot of the Sierra d'Estrella, which ad- vances, like a spur, very far towards the coast, in the valley of the Moridego, there has been received, it is said, at Coimbra, the enormous quantity of 225 inches of water. An error has been suspected in this measure, taken in 1816 and 1817. Schouw has reduced it to 135 inches; Kaemtz, to 118; adopting the last number, there is still a difference of more than 100 inches from Madrid, situated under very nearly the same latitude, and on the same peninsula. If it is so with the table lands of the third order, as ' hat of Spain, what will be the case with those enormous masses which form the body of eastern and western Asia? The fringe of snowy mountains surrounding them, their distance from the oceans, the extent of their sur- faces, their elevation in the atmosphere, all these causes conspire to give them that character of aridity which renders them almost an unbroken desert. 15 1 70 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The p. ateaus of southern Africa, those of Mexico and of California, compared with the neighbc ring countries, have equally an indisputable character of aridity. At Vera Cruz, for example, there fall 62 inches oi water, vhile in Mexico, and on the coast of the Paciific, the . ...ntity seems to be considerably reduced. If the influence of mountain chains and table lands ,o considerable in all the particular cases which we have just examined, it ought to manifest itself en a grand scale and in a certain connection, for each ct nti- nent in particular, and for each of the two worlds. We have previously ascertained a general law of the dis- tribution of the reliefs ; there should be here a reflection of this law ; and its importance should be revealed in ihe distribution of the pluvial waters, and of the climate. W proceed, then, to seek an explanation of the effect that must be produced upon each continent by the particular disposition of its chains of mountains, of its plateaus and plains, relatively to the maritime winds> bringing them the rains and tempering their climate. Let us begin with the New World, the structure >f which is more simple and easy to comprehend. The fundamental features of the structure of Amer- ca, I repeat here, are the long and lofty barrier of ihe Andes, of the Rocky Mountains, extending almost from one pole to the other, along the western coast of the two continents ; then, on the east, vast plains, inter- s|>ersed with some mountain ranges of slight elevation. I^et us see what is the effect of this dispos tion on the climate of both these co itinents THE RAINS IN SOUTH AMERICA. -71 In Soi' ;h America, the principal body of wire* is situated under the sky of the tropics, this disposition secures to the continent a copious supply of moisture. The plains of the east are open to the trade wind of the Atlantic, which sweeps over them unobstructed, and bears thither unceasingly the vapors of the ocean. The secondary chains of Brazil and of the Guyanas, from 5,000 to 7,000, do not rise high enough into the atmos- phere to arrest it; the only effect they have, is to augment the falling showers, and to supply a more complete irrigation. The Orinoco, and the lower trib- utaries of the Amazon, the Tocaritiris, the San Fran- cisco, and many others which flow from these two systems, are there to tell us. But it is not the same with the Andes. This chain, whose crests and sum- mits lift themselves everywhere into the region of per- petual snows, forms, by its elevation and continuity, an invincible obstacle to all the moist winds of the east. The vapors, having traversed the plateaus of Eastern Brazil, without lingering there long, accumulate and condense, and flow down their eastern slopes. All this zone at the foot of the Andes is one of the best watered in the globe. Thus we see issuing from hence those immense streams ; the Maranon, the king of the rivers of the earth, and all its tributaries, the Ucayale, the Rio Purus, the Madera, and many others, to which nothing is wanting but to flow through civilized countries, ir Older to rival in importance the Nile, tte Ganges, and the Mi ssissippi. But on the other side of the Andes all is changed Neither the trade wind nor its vapors arrive at the 172 COMPAhATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. western coast. Scarcely do the table lands of Peru aad of Bolivia receive from them the latter benefits, by the storms which burst out at the limit of the two atmos- pheres. The coast of the Pacific Ocean, from Punta Parina and Amatope to far beyond the tropic, from tho equator to Chili, is scarcely ever refreshed by the rains of the ocean. Deprived of the vapors of the Atlantic by the chain of the Andes, these countries behold the vapors of the Pacific flitting away with the trade wind, and no accidental breeze brings them back. Drought and the desert are their portion, and on the border of the seas, in the very sight of the waves, they are reduced to envy the neighboring countries of the centre of the continent the gifts the ocean refuses to themselves, while lavishing them upon the others. Thus, under the same latitude, under the same tropical heavens, where the phenomena meantime are so regular, the two slopes of the Andes have a climate perfectly opposite. In one of them, the richest vegetation ; in the other, drought, and a parched soil, the nakedness of which is poorly disguised by the light robe of a thinly scattered vegetation. The Andes separate the two climates by a sharply cut line, and testify strongly to the importance of the part performed in climates by the mountain chains, and their situation relathftly to the general winds. The northern and southern limits of this arid region are not where one would expect to find them at the first glance. The question is asked, why the same causes do not hinder the rains from watering the coasts of Pe'u, under ttie equator, and of New Granada. But, THE RAINS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 173 besides that the depression of the Cordilleras towards the north allows the trade wind to round it and to reach the western side, let us remember that this part of the coast corresponds nearly to the zone of calms, in which the direct influence of the trade wind is nearly annihi- lated, and where almost daily rain storms bring back to the earth the vapors in the very places whence they have risen. The influence of this latter circumstance here neutralizes the action of the Andes. It is not the same at the southern limit. Here, not only the chain is continuous, but it forms, in the lofty table lands of Southern Peru and of Bolivia, the broad- est and the highest terrace of all the Andes, shutting out all communication between the two sides. More- over, we are here upon the limit of the tropic, and the regions in the neighborhood are often scantily supplied with rains, as we shall by-and-by understand. The lower regular trade wind begins, in fact, to blow there, and, as we know, the sky remains everywhere serene. The upper, or return trade wind, does not yet fall there ; so that the causes of the condensation of vapor are wanting, and dryness of climate is the inevitable consequence. It is only at a greater distance, where the upper trade wind reaches the surface again, that the conflict of the winds commences, and with it the rains. On the co.ast of Bolivia, at the south of the Gulf of Arica, the two arefying influences unite and cause an almost absolute drought in the long desert of Atacama, which borders the coast nearly to Chili. It is only in the latter country where the return trade wind of the 15* 174 COMPARATt 7E PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. north-west makes itself felt, that the rains recommence );y degrees to water the earth. In the part of South America situated beyond the epical regions, the relative position of the Andes and of the plains on the east, produces an opposite effect The vapors of the Pacific cannot penetrate there. The return, or north-west trade wind, avoids the coast and reenters the Atlantic Ocean, or, driven aside by the Andes, comes back arefied and made continent?!, across the plains of Paraguay and of the Pampas. Hence the violent west wind, in Buenos Ayres, called the Pampero, which carries to the coast only the whirlwind of dust it has raised in the arid plains it traverses in its course. The western coast, on the contrary, receives, with the return trade wind of the north-west, the vapors of the Pacific Ocean. Chili has rains in winter at the moment when the north-west reaches the neighboring regions of the tropics. More to the south, the winds of the sea coming from these, parts, add their contingent, and give all this southern point of America the continuous rains belonging to the cool, temperate regions. Terra del Fuego and Cape Horn, at the confluence of all the sea winds, are incessantly bathed by the rains or covered by the snows; and the correctness of the not very flattering description Forster gives us of that climate, has been confirmed by all the navigators who have travelled through that inhospitable region of fogs and tempests. Thus, in South America, the position of the plains and of the mountains, combined with the prevailing direction of the sea winds, produces the copious moisture THE RAINS IN NORTH AMERICA. 17& of the tropical portion and the comparative dryness of the temperate. In North America, an analogous disposition of the reliefs, a id of the atmospherical currents, would doubt- less produce the same dryness as in the plains of La Plata and the Pampas, if the deep cut of the Gulf of Mexico did not open the whole south of the contineat to the wet winds of the tropics. Instead of coming from the interior of the continent, as in the temperate regions of South America, the return trade wind, which enters by this broad gate, comes directly from the seas, and has lost nothing of its vapors. It waters copiously along its course the whole Atlantic region and the west- ern slope of the Alleghanies ; even the valley of the Mississippi shares its benefits, although to a less degree Towards the north, in the interior, the polar winds seem to resume their empire, and the moisture lessens. Thus North America is more favored with rains than could be expected from its situation westward of the return winds of the equator, and from its character as a large con* tinent. Along the western shore, from the coasts of Mexico to 60 of north latitude, we find the same succession of climates as in South America, in latitudes nearly cor- responling. Between the tropics, in the rear of the high ta ble lands of Mexico, where the trade wind of the Atlantic does not come, drought reigns, as on the coast of Peru. In the sub-tropical region, where the south- west trade wind has still but little influence, the rains are slight ; they are al nost none on the high table lands ^/6 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of California. Oregon, as well as Chili, has the wiiitei rains, Indicating the return of the upper trade wind to land ; they seem to penetrate even beyond the Rocky Mountains, east of which the winter rains are frequent. Here we find the sources of the Missouri. In the North, finally, in Russian America, where the coast bends in and forms a deep bay, the south-west winds strike the coast, and produce the continuous and copious rains, the temperate, equal climate, and the vegetation of the coasts of Scotland and Norway. The investigation we have just made of the distri- bution of the rain in the two Americas shows the influ- ence of the direction of the high chains, &.nd of their position on the western coast. It is immense. Place the Andes along the Atlantic, and the marine trade wind is arrested and dried ; the table lands of Brazil, the end- less plains of the Amazon, are nothing but a desert : no more of that wealth of vegetation, of those virgin forests, which now constitute their beauty ; South Amer- ica loses its character. Place the Rocky Mountains east of North America, open the plains of the Mississippi to the south-west winds of the Pacific, and the climate becomes softer, more equal ; the plains are still better watered, perhaps ; nature has certainly changed. But what would then become of the present destinies, the entire future of this continent, were it necessary to cross the desert table lands of California, and their high mountain ranges, in or ier to reach the Mississippi from the Atlantic coast? What would become of its important relations with Ine Old World, if America, averted from the civilized THE RAIN6 IN THE OLD Wu^LD. 177 nation.?, looked only towards the Pacific Ocean and China? Tf we now direct our attention to the Old World, we shall again find the same influence of the forms of relief. Tropical Africa, and the greatest part of the East of this continent, present two regions very unequall7 supplied with rains. On the north of the equator, the lands are less consolidated, the plateaus isolated from each other. Abyssinia is far from Mandara, and that is far from the Kong Mountains. The coast, from Cape Guardafui to that of Zanguebar, is slightly elevated ; it permits the east winds of the Indian Ocean to penetrate the inland and to water all these parallels. The coasts of Senegambia and of Guinea are in the region of calms U the meeting of the two trade winds, and owe to this circumstance their copious rains, their climate, moist and fruitful, but treacherous and fatal to the man of the North. On the south of the equator the plateaus are con- tinuous ; but instead of being in the West, as in Amer- i ,a, the uplands are in the East ; the eastern coast rises, ind probably reaches, in the chain of Lupata, the loftiest elevation of this part of the continent. Then the eastern coast arrests the vapors; there the rains are everywhere abundant, from Cape Guardafui to Cape of Good Hope, while the vast elevated plains stretching troir. the west to the coasts of Congo, seem to exhibit, as far as we know them, only sterility and drought under the same latitude, where we see the plains of the Amazon and of Brazil drenched every year by torrents of water. 178 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The contrast is complete ; and whence comes this diffeV- ence, if not from the disposition of the reliefs in the two continents ? The region of Cape of Good Hope is watered on tho south-east coast, during the summer, by the winds of the Indian Ocean. But in the whole West the climate is dry except at certain points, and the Atlantic sends it only a few autumnal and winter rains. The North, finally, Sahara, is closed towards the east against the access of the winds ; its sub-tropical position and the nature of its soil contribute further to cause the deficiency of rain, making it one of the most vast and complete deserts in the world. Western Europe, by its position, by the absence of high continuous chains along its seaboards, is open to the equatorial winds of the Atlantic, which bring their moisture thither all the year. The small extent of its surface, the number of its inland seas, and of the deep Days cutting into its mass, and leaving no place very far from some maritime basin; all these circumstances secure to it continued rains, mild climate, and that compara- tively high temperature which belongs to it peculiarly. The numerous mountain chains, the endless diversity of soil, multiply the local condensations, as we have seen, and divide the continent into climatic regions as mani- fold as they are varied. Europe, alone, is without a desert. In tropical Asia the monsoons and mountain ranges regulate the rains. The peninsula of India has the r?.iny sr isons reversed on its two coasts; but its plen ifuJ THE RAINS IN AUSTRALIA. 179 rains are reduced to a very small quantity on lie pla- teaus of Deccan. All the region of Indo-China and of the grt at Asiatic archipelago is one of the best watered in the world. The conflict of the different winds, of which all this space is the theatre, the variety of the lands, so numerously scattered there, and the discon- tinuity of the chains, which can nowhere arrest the winds, are so many causes that secure to the whole of it such copiousness of tropical rains. The Himalaya and the lofty chains of China stop the course of the ocean winds ; all beyond, towards the inte- rior, is- a desert; it is the Gobi, the Tangout, and the sandy seas of Turkestan. Australia is as yet so little known that it is impossi- ble to analyze its climate. Nevertheless, what we have learned of late years concerning the configuration of its relief, proves that the highest lands, as in Africa, are placed on the eastern border of the continent. The trade wind of the Pacific scarcely penetrates thither, and that of the temperate regions shuns the coast Furthermore, the southern half is, for the greater part, in the sub-tropical region, and seems to be deficient in mountains. Thus we may believe that the interior is a desert. But the eastern coast, Botany Bay, and the Australian Alps, are better watered than Swan River, on the western coast, and the prosperity of the colonies established on these two- shores, has, of necessity, beon in proportion. The mean quantity of rain water which falls in this part of the world is estimated at twenty-five inches ; it is the most insular, and yet, owing to these circums/ances, and to its rounded form, the most imper- JSU COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. fectly watered of the continents. If what precedes did not inform us of this, the aspect and the slender forms of the vegetation, its attenuated leaves, which constitute its characteristic, would be sufficient to convince us of the fact. Thus, gentlemen, if the general climates are given by the latitude, that is, by the spherical form of the earth, the special climates, characterized by the unequal distri- bution of the temperatures and the rains, are the effect of the grouping of the continents, and of the particular disposition of their reliefs. In the point of view now occupying us, each con- tinent has its special character. South America is the most humid of the tropical continents ; North America, the best watered of the temperate continents, but the rains are equally distributed ; Africa and Asia present the absolute contrast of dry and moist in the zone of the deserts touching upon the regions bathed by the ains of the tropics ; temperate Asia is the dryest of the lorthern continents. Europe combines the moisture of he maritime climate with a great variety of contrasts ; but they are all softened. Australia, finally, is the Jryest and poorest of the continents. The general law of the reliefs in the two worlds thus manifests its influence. The New World is that of plains, and th3 plains are open to the winds of the sea ; its continenta- forms are less piled up and massive ; it is, on the whole, the most humid. The Old World is that of plateaus and of vast extents; drought is its por- tion. It is enough to recall the influence these circum- THE MARITIME ZONE. utances of humidity or aridity exerc.se on the vegeta- tion. the aspect, anC the organized beings of a country, to foresee that these great differences between one world and the other will be agair. reproduced in another province. We have taken a rapid view of the variety of the phenomena to which the intermingling of the solid and liquid elements, "of land and water, gives occasion. It wo~: J be easy, by a more detailed examination, to in- crease the number of these contrasts, of which I have pointed out only the most general. But I have said enough for a sketch of this vast subjsct, and to enable you to take a glance at all the wealth of life that nature unfolds by means so simple. I will add only one con- sideration more, which will serve for a conclusion to what we. 'lave thus far said of this great contrast of the continental and oceanic hemispheres. We have seen, gentlemen, that it is from the combi- nation of the two elements that life is born, a higher life than that belonging to either of them. It is neither the oceanic climate, nor the continental climate, which we shall proclaim as the foremost climate of the world ; it is the combination of the two it is the maritime climate. Here are allied the continental vigor and the oceanic softness, in a fortunate union, mutually temper- ing each other. Here the development is more irftense, life more rich, more varied in all its forms. \nd when to these causes we further add the advantage of a tropi- cal temperature, the forms of nature are, as it were, raised to their highest degree, and the wealth it brings 16 182 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. to light surpasses -ill elsewhere seen. I wiL te only a single example : this will suffice. Nowhere on the surface of the globe is the blending of the continental and oceanic element so complete, and on so great a scale, as in the East Indies, and in that archipelago the greatest in the world which fills the space comprised between the South of Asia and Austra- lia, Peninsulas, which are worlds, as those of Deccan and Indo-China ; islands, which are small continents, like Borneo and Sumatra; a blending of chains and plateaus, and of plains, as on the continent; and all this cut up, bordered, or surrounded by seas in the most diversified manner, bathed by the humid atmosphere of the tropics, and exposed to the burning rays of a verti- cal sun these are all the means of physical life which nature can receive. And then, what mighty, what admirable vegetation ! We see at the same time plants with broad and numerous leaves, the excessive expan- sion of which is always the proof of an exuberant humidity; and those shrubs with concentrated and elaborated gums, those spices, those aromata, that bear witness to the dry and intense heat of the conti- nent. There is the country of the mighty Banian, the symbol of vegetable strength. There uplifts its head the majestic Talipot palm, a single leaf whereof, six- toon feet broad and forty feet round, is enough to give shade to a score of men at once; and in the bosom of those virgin forests grow the largest flowers in the world, the Rafflesia, whose gigantic corolla alone measures no less than three feet across. There grow the cinnamon, the nutmeg, the popper, arid the cloves, THE MARITIME ZONE- 183 which all civilized nations have fetched thence from time immemorial. Everything most grand and powerful of the produc- tions cf the animal world is there encountered. The rhinoceros, the huge royal tiger, the orang-outang, that great .serious-looking ape, the most perfect of animals, and that which seems to foreshadow in its structure the complete configuration of the human body, are all inhab- itants of those countries. If to these we add the mineral wealth, the gold and the diamonds, abounding there, we may pronounce these regions the most richly endowed of the universe. But let us raise ourselves above the limits of the natural, into the regions of the historic world. Where have we beheld all peoples and societies arrive at their highest perfection, if not in Europe, that peninsular continent, the most indented and most maritime of all the continents? Where do we see barbarism reign triumphant, if not in Africa and Australia, continents shut off from all contact with the rest of the world, its seas and its people, by their continuous and unindented outlines? This is neither the time nor the place to analyze the causes of this phenomenon ; I now merely allude to the facts, intending to return to the subjec\ hereafter. But I will add, that it is not an isolated fact. Call together your historical recollections, and cast youi eyes upon this map of the world, and you will see thai all the highly civilized peoples of the earth, with .he exception of one or two primitive nations, have lived, or still live, on the margins of seas or oceans. TVe Chinese and the Hindoos unquestionably repre- 184 COMPAl A.TIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRA.. 4Y. sent tl.i most advanced state of civilization in Orienlal Asia. In Europe, to name Phoenicia, Asia Minor, Greece and Rome, is to enumerate all the highly ex ti- vated peoples of antiquity, and all have, as the theatre of flisi: strifes and exploits, as well as for their connect- ing link, the Mediterranean Sea. To come to a later date, it is to the ocean that Spain and Portugal owe the b-Lliant part they played, at the period when superb discoveries doubled the extent of the historic world. At this very hour, to conclude the might of England causes itself to be felt from one lo the other extremity of the world. And in this new world of North America, now enter- ing on its great career among the nations under so happy auspices, is it not on the shores of the Atlantic that life is developed in its most active, most intense, and most exalted form ? Is this merely a chance conse- quence of the accidental debarkation at that point of the colonists of the Ancient World ? No, gentlemen, brilliant as may be the prospects the West may aspire to from the exuberance of its soil, life and action will always point toward the coast, which can only derive fresh accessions of prosperity from the prosperity of the interior. The lifs of nations is in the commerce of the world, not only in a material, but even more in a moral point of view; and it is because America is enthroned queen-like upon the two great oceans, that she will be called to play a part as mediator between the two extremities of the world, of which no one can at this momei t conceive the magnificent extent. This, then, s the resolution of the contrast between THE MARITIME ZONE. 18 the continental and the oceanic world, as regards the intermixture of their natures. It is in this region of contact between the sea and the ocean that life i* unfolded in its most intense and diversified form ; and, both in point of nature and of history, the maritime zone of every continent enjoys a superiority over all others not to be questioned or disputed. 16* LECTURE VilJ. The marine cur re* t, The motion of the seas dtu to other causa than that of the conttn ntal waters Various causes of tfie marine cur- rents Differences of temperature the principal, acting indirectly by the winds, directly by the unequal density of the waters Coincidence between the great atmospJicric currents and the marine currents System of general currents The Equatorial current and the Polar currents The currents of the Pacific Ocean; of the Indian Ocean; of the Atlantic Ocean Contrast of the Old World and the New Disposition of their continental masses Consequences The Old World the continental; the New the oceanic The first essentially temperate, the second tropical Special character of the New World Its structure more simple Abundance of its waters Vegetation ^predominates on the Animal World Incomplete development of the i.igher animals Influence on the indigenous man Conclusions. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN : Thus far we have been studying, in the grand con- trast of land and water, the influence of the oceanic element on the continental world, of the wet upon the dry, more than that of the continents upon the oceans. This was the right order, because the continental world is much the more important. Nevertheless, we will not leave the subject without saying, at least, a few words upon the action the continents, in their turn, exercise upon the oceans. Now, as this action of the la-ids is essentially limi ,ed to regulating and modifying the movements of the >ceanic waters, by their disposi- THE MARINE CURRFN'xS. 187 tio. .y th: forms of their coasts, and their submarine relit I it will be sufficient for our purpose to take cog- nizaiee of the principal phenomena presented by the marine currents, without entering upon details which the shortness of the time allowed compels me to pass over in silence. The spectacle around us has accustomed us to see the continental waters in mo don. We hear, without astonishment, the streams murmur in the meadows, the torrents roar in the mountains, and behold the rivers flow majestically along their bed. The cause of this motion of the water is familiar. We know that the particles of this movable element, influenced by the hidden power of gravitation, move and flow untiringly, until they have reached the lowest place accessible to them. If in their course they fall in with a basin having no exit, they gather there and put themselves into a state of equilibrium and repose, preserving their horizontal surface and their immobility, until driven from it by another force foreign to the first. Such are our peaceful lakes, with pure and tranquil waters, whose mirror reflects the mountains that adorn their margin, the azure of the sky, and even the slightest cloud floating in the atmosphere that bends over them. But these basins, which here and there collect the living waters of the continents, are only the image, on a very small scale, of what the vast and deep basin of tho oceans is for the whole of the waters of our planet. All the water springs that furrow the continents tend towards this common reservoir. Gushing from the height of the table Ian Is, or the lofty summits of the 188 COMPARATIVE PRFSICAL GEOGRAPHY.' mountains, they pour their waters first from fall to fall headlong down the rapid slopes; they traverse, at a more sober and measured pace, the long low plains leading to the ocean, into which, as we behold their slower and slower and more sluggish march, their waves seem unwillingly to enter, as if conscipus that they were io be confounded together, and lose their existence t.ere. Here, in truth, ends the ephemeral life of the rivers; their motion has ceased, they disappear in the immensity of that vast abyss whence they had issued. We are, then, inclined to look upon the basin of the oceans as containing waters in a state of rest ; for the cause which sets the river waters in motion exists no longer; the differences of level are annulled. Yet let us be cautious; all this may well be only a first appear- ance. The very mobility of water, which prevents it from reflecting permanent forms, and levels all ine- qualities, renders it also accessible to the slightest external influences, and several causes succeed in im- pressing upon this element, passive in the highest degree, the most varied motions. The winds raise the waves of the ocean by an action wholly mechanical, and produce only a superficial and local agitation ; but when they blow constantly in the same direction, they impart to the waters a transfer motion in the direction of their own course. The sun and moon pass over the surface of the seas, and the entire muss of waters, obedient to the mighty attraction, piles itse f up in a vast swell, whose summit follows the course of the dominant luminary. These are the tides. The unequal pressure of the atmosphere on the different T.E MARINE CURRENTS. 189 points of the ocean, whence result differences of level, and ; above all, the differences of temperature between the tropical and the polar seas, to which correspond different degrees of density, are so many more causes disturbing the equilibrium of the oceanic waters, and creating in their bosom various motions which continu- ally tend to reestablish the equilibrium, but without effecting it. Sometimes the superficial mass is trans- ported from east to west, jis in the great equatorial current; sometimes a deep and narrow band, a true oceanic river, flowing rapidly through waters compara- tively tranquil, as the Gulf Stream. Here the currents meet and unite; there they are superposed, and the upper and under currents run in opposite directions. Everywhere is agitation; nowhere absolute rest, as unknown to nature here as in all other quarters. The greater part of the causes, to say nothing of others more doubtful which it would be useless to mention here, often act in concert to produce marine currents ; but it would be difficult to assign to each of them the exact portion of effect belonging to it. There is one, however, which seems to control all the rest by [is power and the constancy of its action, direct or indirect, and that is the difference of temperature be- tween the regions near the equator and those in the neighborhood of the poles. Now, since the general \vinds, as we ha.*e seen, owe their origin to this same muse, we shall not be surprised to find a similarity, and. in some cases, a remarkable coincidence, between the march of the g:eat a tmospheric currents and that of the general currents o, ? the ocean. For, not only do the .50 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY winds act directly on the currents and sweep them forward in their course, but the same forces drive them both in a common direction; the same obstacles, the continents, check their onward movement, and force them to swerve, in a similar manner, from their original direction. A knowledge of the one will facilitate the understanding of the others. The most general fact to be noted here is the existence of the great equatorial current, as it has been agreed to call it, which .seems a general transfer movement }f the tropical waters from east to west all round the globe, rather than a current properly so called. This grand phenomenon did not escape the sagacity of Columbus, who was also the first to discover it. " It seems beyond a doubt," said he, after one of his earliest voyages, " that the waters of the ocean move with the heavens;" that is, in the direction of the apparent course of the sun and stars. This great current is analogous to the trade winds ; it has ever been thought that these winds were the principal cause of it. But it is too deep and rapid to admit of being explained by their action alone. The difference of temperature between the tropical and polar seas, and the loss the seas of the warm regions suffer from more active evaporation, would be a still more profound and irresistible cause. The colder and heavier waters of the polar regions per- petually tend to flow towards the warm and lighter waters of the 6 |iiator, and to displace them. The ex- istence of thes polar currents is demonstrated by the Bating masses o f ice which swept on by the waters THc. EQUATORIAL CURRENT. 191 whence they had their being, accomplish every spring long pilgrimages towards the warmer regions, and stray even as far as the 40 of latitude. Like the atmospheric currents setting from these same quarters, they occupy the lower part of the domain of the oceans, while the warm waters of the equator spread over their surface Hence the astonishing spectacle of those majestic ice bergs, of which only an eighth part is visible, while the rest is sunk in the depths of the sea, continuing their solemn progress southward, and, on meeting the Gulf S^eam, moving on in a direction opposite to the course of its waters, proving thus that the waters enveloping their bases pursue without obstruction their southward course. The polar currents, while advancing towards the equatorial regions, gradually make a bend west- ward, like the winds, under the influence of the earth's rotation, ai.d at the meeting in the tropics are trans- formed into a vast movement from east to west. Add to this general tendency of the deep waters, the direct and constant action of the trade winds upon their surface, and that of the tides acting in the same direction, and the cause of this phenomenon will appear to you, if not fu-i/ explained, at least sufficiently accounted for. bfQMA. The grand equatorial current is still more disturbed than the trade winds, by the continents arresting their progress and causing the waters to flow back in very different and often opposite directions to their oi.gi- nal course. Each of the three great oceans forming a separate basin, and presenting a collective combination of physical circumstances which rrodify the march of 192 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. the oceanic currents in a peculiar manner, we proceed to pass them in review successively, beginning with the Pacific Ocean, whose system is more simple than that of the two others. (See plate i.) The Pacific Ocean, owing to its vast extent, gives full and unimpeded sweep to the general currents in a more regular manner than either of the others. The Antarctic polar current, bent eastward by the prevailing winds of these regions, strikes the western coast of America between 50 and 40 south latitude. It divides into two branches, of which one runs southward, doubles Cape Horn, and carries its waters on to the Atlantic. The second and principal passes along the coast of Chili and Peru, cooling the climate by the low temperature of the waters it bears, which are from 10* to 12 Centigrade, or from 18 to 22 Fahrenheit colder than the neighboring sea off Lima. The current, to which it has been proposed, on good grounds, to give the name of Humboldt, who was the first to prove its origin and abnormal temperature, suddenly quits the coast near the height of ?unta Parina, and goes on to form the grand equatorial current. This latter occupies a breadth of nearly 50 degrees on the two sides of the equator, and passes beyond the trop- ics, north and south. It follows its peaceful and majestic course, unobstructed, with an average speed of from 30 t3 35 miles a day, to the chain of islands that fringe the continents of Asia and Australia. On the north it reaches Formosa, and, running upon the coast of China, turns off and moves to the north-east lioug the shores of Japan. On the south, it is already CURRENTS IN THE INDIAN OCE.iN. 193 disturbed by the monsoons, and loses its way in the labyrinthine mazes of the grand Asiatic archipelago, whose seas heave with the violent currents that add further to the dangers of navigation in these stormy '?eas. In the northern part of this ocean, the west winds reigmng there determine a drift current, which advances to the American coasts and conducts the waters south- ward along the shores of California, whence they d mbtless reenter the equatorial current, to commence a new circuit. The polar currents seem to be almost nothing. The bank or neck, which in all probability unites the neighboring points of the continents of Asia and America under the waters of Behring's Strait, hinders the under currents coming from the pole from entering this basin, while the warmer waters of the Pacific flow on the surface into the Frozen Ocean. In the Indian Ocean, the equatorial current, like the trade wind, is broken. In the region of the monsoons, or the northern region, the currents follow alternately the direction of these periodical winds, and flow with them six months in one direction, and six months in another. But in the south, where the trade wind re- tains its empire, the normal current holds its way, aarrows as it approaches Madagascar, sweeps north of that island, and, stemmed by the coast of Africa, enters the channel of Mozambique. Compressed into this narrow passage, it acquires the enormous speed of four or five miles an hour, and, rein- forced south of Madagascar by another branch, reache* 17 194 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. in its rapid course the Cape of Good Hope, and the great Needle bank, las Lagullas, the borders of which it follows at a distance from the coast. Here it divides. One part encounters the current setting from the south ern Atlantic, and with it reenters the Indian Ocean The other branch doubles the Cape, enters the Atlantic, and, flowing along the western coast of Africa, proceeds to blend its waters with those of the equatorial current of this third ocean. The forms of the Atlantic Ocean, so characteristic, the small breadth it presents in the region of the equator, the deep windings of the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, wherein nearly all the tropical waters of this ocean are accumulated, as in a receptacle having no outlet, give to its currents an aspect both more marked and less normal. The equatorial current does not there assume its customary proportions, while the return current, the Gulf Stream, is exhibited in a very unusual manner. These are the two salient features necessary to study first. The equatorial current connects itself with the cur- rent of the Cape of Good Hope issuing from the Indian Ocean. Starting from the coasts of Southern Africa, it soon extends both sides of the line, widens considerab y, and flows across the ocean at the rate of two to three miles an hour. Having reached the coasts of America at Cape Rocca, it divides, one branch flowing south- ward, along the coasts of Brazil, and, together with the waters of the southern basin, resumes the route of the cape and the Indian Ocean. The other and principal branch takes a west-north-west direction, rolls its waters GULF STREAM. 195 along the shores of Guyana, enters the Caribbean Sea which Rennel calls a sea in motion, rather than a current,' penetrates into the Gulf of Mexico, making its circuit, and, passing before the mouths of the Mississippi, arrives at the nairow passage between the point of F'orida and the Island of Cuba, whence it comes forth under another name. In truth, the accumulated and moving waters of the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico are the inex- haustible source of that torrent of warm water, which, under the name of the Gulf Stream, precipitates itself over the breakers of Bahama, flows along the coast of Florida, at a rate varying from two to five miles an hour, according to the season, and keeps on its way, upon a line parallel to the shore at a short distance from its margin, until it passes beyond Cape Hatteras. The Stream, hitherto narrow, deep, and rapid, meets in this vicinity the cold waters from the north, and the sand banks running along at a distance from the coasts as far as the southern part of Newfoundland Repulsed by these obstacles, it makes a sudden turn to the east, becomes much broader, spreads over tht surface, and holds henceforth its slackened course to the Azores, whence it bends towards the south, in order to recom- mence from the coasts of Africa the immense cycie of its never-ending rotation. These warm waters of the tropics advance northward even beyond the limits we have just indicated. Driven by the south-east winds prevailing in the northern Allan tic, they proceed to bathe the coasts of the North of Europe, the temperature of which they soften, and often 196 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. deposit on the lonely shores of Scotia id and Norway the plants and seeds of the tropical regions, unanswer- able witnesses of their distant course. On seeing the narrow breadth of the Gulf Stream f rom its origin to Cape Hatteras, one is led to ask how it can be sufficient to cover with warm water the immense surface it occupies from this point all the way to the Azores. The beautiful explorations, executed under the able direction of Professor Bache, Superintendent of the Coast Survey, give the answer; for numerous thermo- metrical soundings prove that off this cape the depth of the current is such, that at 3,000 feet below the surface it still presents nearly the same differences of tempera- ture which distinguish it from the surrounding sea, and clearly mark its limits. It is doubtless these deep waters that appear at the surface when it bt comes broad ; for as it loses in speed, the warm waters are free to ascend and take the place assigned to them by their lesser density, at the same time this very cause favors the accumulation of the waters in the part of the current where its progress is slackened. It only changes form, and, in advancing, must lose in depth what it gains in width. The polar currents of the Atlantic are perceptible chiefly on the coasts of America. Hudson's and Baffin's Bay and the Sea of Greenland pour their waters and their ice along the eastern coast of the continent, and contribute, doubtless, to lower the temperature. Such are the most salient features of the vast pic- lure presented by the oscillations of the ocean waters. AJ though we have merely touched upon the subject, we OLD WORLD AND NEW WORLD. 197 Know alieady enough, I believe, to be convinced that, if the causes of these mi vements flow, for the most pan, from the general laws regulating the physical constitu- tion of the globe, the r evolutions, and the special and individual characters they assume in each ocean, are an immediate result of the configuration and disposi- tion of the terrestrial masses forming the basin of the seas. The great oceanic currents are one of the grandest phenomena presented by the wise economy of nature. Their extent, the prodigious length of their course, in some nearly equal to the circumference of the globe, fiL us with astonishment, and leave far behind everything of this description to be seen in the water courses of the continents. Owing to these permanent streams, the sea waters mingle from pole to pole, and move with sleep- less flow from the Pacific to the Indian Ocean, and from this to the Atlantic ; and this unending agitation pre- serves their healthfulness and purity. Like the winds, the currents tend to equalize differ- ences, to soften extremes. The cold waters of the Antarctic pole temper the scorching heats of the coast of Peru ; the warm waters of the Gulf Stream lessen the severity of the climate of Norway and the British islands. Their importance is no less in the relations of the people and the commerce of the nations. It is the currents which, together with the winds, trace the great ^nes of communication upon the highways of the oceans, favoring or obstructing the intercourse of one country willi another, bringing near together places apparently the most remote, separating others that seem to touch 17* 198 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. each other. Their importance in nature and history cannot fail to impress the minds of all. We abandon the ocean, and shall, henceforth, occupy ourselves only with the continental masses. To study them better in their analogies and their differences, to detect their true character, we shall consider them suc- cessively in their natural groups, under two different points of view, which we have already indicated ; I mean as the Old World and the New, then as the Northern and Southern continents. Let us begin with the contrast of the Old World and the New. The most prominent feature of the arrangement of the continents is, in fact, the grouping of the two Americas hi one hemisphere, and that of the four others in another hemisphere. This division of the continents into two worlds is so evident from the first glance, and is at the same time so convenient in practice, that it has passed into common speech as one of those observations admit- ting no contradiction. But to bring out prominently the contrast of these two worlds, they must be studied more in detail than we have thus far done ; we must compare them, in order to deduce, by the comparison itself, the special character of each. This is what we are going to attempt. We have already seen that they differ in the forms of their relief and in their climate ; we shall further see that these fundamental differences produce analogous effects in the organized beings, and in the entire physical life of each of the two worlds. Finally, we shall speak of the nannnr in wh ; :h they acr upon each other, and seem, by OLD WORLP AND NEW WORLD. 19ft thoir very nature, destined not to live isolated, but tc form together a single organism, a grand harmony. During the whole of this study, please to remember, gentlemen, we are in the realm of nature, and not in that of history. The America we are seeking to un- derstand is that which Columbus and his successors dis- covered, still entirely a virgin world, centuries ago ; and not the New World of history, we shall have to speak of later, that has come to plant itself on that soil. A general comparison of the two groups of continents will call to mind some of the leading features we have already become acquainted with, and add some others. The Old World and the New World differ in the groupings, and in the number and extent of the conti- nents composing them ; in their astronomical situation, with respect to the climatic zones ; in the general direc- tion of their lands; in their interior structure. This assemblage of opposite characters secures to each of them a climate, a vegetation, and an animal kingdom, peculiarly their own. I say, first, in their groupings : The Old World is composed of four comments. Set- ting aside Australia, which is only an island in the midst of the oceanic hemisphere, it numbers three, all very near each other, aggregated, and forming an oval, compact mass, whose extent far surpasses that of every other terrestrial space. It presents a solid extent of land, the most vast, the most unbroken, the least accessible in its centre to the influences of the Ocean. The Old World is preeminently the continental world. The New World lias only fro continents, North Amer- 200 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. ica and South America, America and Columbia, as I should like to call them to render justice where right belongs if it were not forbidden to change names con- secrated by long us age. These two continents are not grouped in one mass, nor placed side by side, but sepa- rated from each other, not touching upon their long sides, but by their exterior angles, standing in line, rather than grouped. They are situated in two opposite Hemispheres, and thus more distant from each other, ipparently, and less neighboring. The result of this remarkable disposition is that nar- row, lengthened, slender form we see in the New World. No portion of the interior is very remote from the sea- coasts; everywhere it gives access to the influences of the ocean, in the midst of which it is placed, like a long island. This form already, contrasted with that of the Old World, gives to it its character. The New World is essentially oceanic. The astronomical position, relatively to the climatic zone, is also not the same in the two worlds. The Old World is, as it were, crowded back upon the north of the equator ; it belongs, for the most part, to the northern hemisphere and to the temperate zone. Of the three principal continents composing it, the two whose importance is by far the greatest, Europe and Asia, are temperate. Asia penetrates the torrid regions only by the southern peninsulas; Europe at no point; Australia is sub-tropical ; Africa only is truly tropical. Even if we take in the last two continents, more than two thirds of the lands are situated in the temperate regions, one third only in the equatorial regions. The f Md World is the i essentially temperate. WRECTION OF THE LANDS 201 In the New World the lands are distributed in a man- ner nearly equal in the two zones and in the two hemi- spheres. W3 find that the countries it includes, those the most richly endowed, are situated under the sun of the tropics. Compared with the Old World, the Now World is thus essentially tropical The general direction of the lands, or the direction in which their length extends, is the inverse in the two worlds. The Old World has its greatest prolongation from east to west, in the line of the parallels ; the New World from north to south, in the direction of the merid- ians. Both have a length of about 7,500 miles, but the breadth of the Old World is nearly double that of the New. This disposition is of the greater consequence for the distribution of the climates in each of them, since this configuration coincides, as we have seen, with the interior structure, with the direction of the principal mountain chains, and of the table lands. From one end to the other of the Old World, over a space of several thousand miles, the migratory tribes are able to pursue their adventurous roaming course by following, accord- ing to their custom, the great features of relief of the soil, without witnessing any change in the vegetation 01 the animals that surround them. They change place but not climate, nor ways of life. This similarity of climates over long spaces is, then, a property of the Old World, and must have singularly favored the dispers-ion of the primitive tribes. In the New World, on the contrary, the zones of similar climates are short ant* numerous; and if we trave ovei the-h)le Imgth ot the two Americas, we 202 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. pass twice in succession through all the temperatures from the frozen climate of the poles to that of the equator, and Irom the burning climate of the equator to that of the poles. This diversity of climate gives their char- acter to the Americas. Meantime, the interior structure modifies these climatic le ations in the two worlds, in such a manner as to correct the uniformity of climate in the Old by more marked contrasts, and the too great diversity of the New, by gentler and better graduated transitions. We shall see this as we proceed to a closer examination of the structure of the two Americas, which will particu- larly occupy us this evening. The maps we shall make use of in this inquiry, these you see before you, require perhaps some explana- tion. They are intended to enable the eye to take in by a single glance the different elevations of relief; we see here the low plains, the table lands, and the moun- tains, each indicated by a particular color. (See plate i.) I need not call your attention to the usefulness of substi- tuting, in teaching geography, such physical maps, for the flat and perfectly unmeaning charts found in the common atlas. What characterizes the interior structure of the New World is its simplicity. In place of the variety of the Old Wor.d, where, in spite of a few general features common to both, each continent is, as it were, cast in a separate mould, the two Americas seem absolutely formed ;.pon the same plan. This plan may be sketched out in a fevr lines. Two triangles, their vertices turned *o the soutn, one situated north-west of the other ; the STRUCTURE OF THE NEW WORLD. 203 long cord of the Rocky Mountains and of the Andes, running the length of the extreme western coast, and binding the two continents together ; great plains on the east, forming the larger part of their surface ; a slightly elevated chain along the Atlantic coast of both, .he Alle- ghanies in North America, the Serra do Espinha^o and the Serra do Mar of Brazil, in South America; finally, in the centre, three short, transverse chains, that of Parime in the Guyanas, that of Venezuela, and that of the great Antilles, broken into a number of islands; these, in a few words, are all the essential features of this vast division of the world. That which constitutes the richness of organization in the continents, is the number and abundance of internal contrasts calling out at once the activity of nature and that of man. The Old World is full of them ; America has only a small number, all tending to disappear by reason of the structure itself. Thus, in Asia and Europe, the line of the highest lands, the continental axis, extending from the Him- alaya to the Alps and the Pyrenees, divides these two continents into two unequal parts, one north and one south, opposite in climate, in vegetation, and even in races. Scarcely anywhere is the transition from one to ihe other gradual ; almost everywhere it is abrupt and sudden. The table lands of Tubet and frigid Mongolia touch ths tropical plains of China and of the Indies; tact traveller who passes the Alps, abandons the severe land- scapes and the firs of the North, to descend, by a single day's journey, into the ever verdant gardens and the orang' groves of fair Italy ; he exchanges the cold mists 204 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of the North for the sun of the South, and often eaves on one side the snows and frosts of winter, to find on the other the warm breath of spring, its verdure and its flowers. This striking contrast between the North and the South, reflected in the character and history of all the nations of Asia and Europe, is doubtless found in America ; it is perhaps too well known in tnis country. But in nature it is almost effaced; is soft- ened down. It does not form a barrier; nowhere presents an abrupt change; nowhere breaks the unity. On account of the continued plains of the continent, we seo the natural character of the North gradually melt into that of the South. Between the shores of the Frozen Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico lies the whole distance from the icy regions to the tropics. But it is only slowly, and over long spaces, that we pass through the transition. From the treeless polar plains, where flows the Mackenzie River, whose sole covering is the mosses and the lichens, we pass only by degrees to the coniferous forests of Lake Superior ; then to the oaklands of Wisconsin ; the walnuts, hickories, and the chestnuts of Ohio and Kentucky next appear ; further souli, the magnolia and the palmetto already herald the air of the tropics and the neighborhood of the Gulf of Mexico. Two thousand four hundrei miles separate the extremes of this scale of vegetation, which almost touch each other in the Himalaya. /?; Qr It is, moreover, to these vast plains, offering no obstacles to the dissemination of the species, and to the absence ol great chains from east to west, that we CONTRAST OF EAST AND WEST. 2C5 undoubtedly owe the appearance, at the North, of plants and animals that seem to belong only to the tropical regions. Not without surprise, the European, landing on these shores, sees the humming-bird, that diamond of the tropics, glancing in the sun in a country which winter clothes, during long months, in a thipk mantle f>f snow and ice. Ii is the same towards the South, where we see the palm trees and the parrots of the tropics, here and there, as far as the Pamias of Buenos Ayres, much beyond their natural limits. Thus the contrast between the North and the South is softened, reduced ; but it is not annihilated ; it exists on a great scale from one of the continents to the other ; for North America is temperate, and South America is tropical. America is cut by the Andes into two parts, East and West, as Asia and Europe are cut into two parts, North and South. But this contrast likewise is almost neu- tralized, as we shall soon understand. The inequality is here carried to the extreme, to such a reduction of one of the parts, that it loses its impoi- tance, and, so to speak, its power of reaction. The western coast, dry and barren, has not extent and influence enough to enter upon an effective rivalry with the vast countries of the East. Moreover, the diffculty P communication renders the mutual action and the intercourse between the countries situated at the foot of (lie two inclinations, still more rare. Finally, the two sides of the Andes, being under the same latitudes, havt. the same, or -.early the same, climate, and differ merely 18 206 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPKY. in t\ie degree of moisture or dryness falling to theii por- tion. The West of the two Americas is only a narrow strip, not to be compared with the great plains of t'e East occupying nearly the entire continent, and giving it its character. America is then less rich in internal contrasts thai! the Old World, but has more of unity, because it is more simple. Undoubtedly, in this uniformity of structure, in this absence of obstacles to a free circula- tion from end to end of this world, we are to look for one of the principal causes of that common character, of that American physiognomy, which strikes us in aL the organized beings of this continent, and which we find again in man himself, in the Indian, all the tribes of whom, from the banks of the Mackenzie River to Patagonia, have the same coppery tint and a family likeness in the features, impossible to mistake. The climate of the New World, compared with that of the Old, is distinguished by the abundance of pluvial waters, in general, by a greater humidity. We have seen in what manner this phenomenon is the conse- quence of its narrow and lengthened form ; of the opening of the great plains that is, of the two con- tinents almost entire to the winds of the sea; of the absence of high mountains in the East ; in a word, of the configuration and general exposure of this part of the globe. While the Old World, with its compact figure, its vast plateaus, its high lands in the East, receives only an average of 77 inches of water by the year un?er the tropics, America receives 115 inchea RIVERS OF AMERICA. 207 The temperate regions of Europe have 34 inches ; North America, 39 inches. Add to this abundance of water, the extent of plains permitting the development of vast systems of water courses, and you will understand the existence of that innumerable multitude of rivers and lakes, which are one of the most characteristic features of the two Americas. Notwithstanding a much smaller ex- tent than that of the Old World, the New possesses the largest rivers on the earth ; the richest in waters, those whose basins occupy the broadest areas. Where can we find, on the surface of the globe, a river equal to the mighty Marafion, that giant among the rivers of the earth, gathering its waters from a surface of a million and a half square miles, and bearing them to the ocean, after a course of 3,000 miles ? This mighty monarch receives in his progress the homage of tributa- ries, each of which, by its greatness and the abundance of its waters, would suffice for the wants of a whole vast country. Such are the Ucayale, the Rio Purus, the Rio Negro, above all the Madera, rivalling in importance the river to which it yields the honor rt giving a name to their united waters. The further it advances in its majestic course, the more its proportions increase ; and before arriving at the ocean, its broad sheet, from the midd*le of which the eye cannot reach the tanks, seems rather to be a fresh-water sea, flowing sluggishly towards the ocean basin, than a river of the continent. Far from its mouth ; the fresh and rruddy waters of the Amazon are still distinguished at a glance of the eye from the saline and limpid waves of the 208 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. ocean ; and the slime, borne along by their currents goes to form, further north, a new soil on the shores of the continent In the other continent, th? Father of Waters, the mighty Mississippi, the second ;f the rivers of the earth. equals in length the Maranon itself; for its winding course is 3,000 miles. But its basin covers only from 8 to 900,000 square miles. Who does not know the importance of tributaries like the Missouri, which wrongly gives up its name for that of its less powerful brother ; like the Ohio, the Beautiful River, the stream with transparent waters; like ths Arkansas, and so many others composing that vast system of arteries that vivify the whole West, and are destined to assume daily a greater and greater importance 1 And these immense rivers are not isolated. At the side of the Maranon, the La Plata has a course of not less than 1,900 miles, and more than a million of square miles send into it their waters. At the side of the Mississippi, the St. Lawrence has a course c\f 1,800 miles, and a basin of nearly a million of square miles. The Old World offers nothing similar. The great- est of its rivers, the Yan-tse-Kiang in China, has a course of only 2,500 miles. The Ganges and the Nile are far from equalling it. The Volga, the great- est of the rivers of Europe, exhibits a course of only 1,700 miles, and if it were necessary to enumerate in America rivers like the Rhine, so celebrated, it would be almost by the hundred that we sh >uld have .o citd them. THE NEW WORLD THE BJiST WATERED. 809 And what shall we say of the abundance of its lakes? The group of the great lakes of Canada, so character- istic of North America, nowhere finds a parallel. It contains at once the largest lakes in the world, ancT the greatest mass of fresh water united on the surface of the continents. These vast fresh water seas, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square miles, and it has been calculated that they contain almost one half of all the fresh waters on the surface of our planet. They, too, are not alone, and a glance of the eye at the map enables us to perceive in the North a multitude of lakes but little inferior in extent : the lake Athapescow, Winnipeg, Slave Lake, the Great Bear, are worthy to figure side by side with the lakes of Canada and of the St. Lawrence. The rivers and the lakes are the wealth, and justly form the boast, of America. No continent possesses so great a number, or those of such large extent, so well supplied with water, so navigable. Not only do they fertilize the rich countries they traverse, but they are now, and will become still more so, the great high- ways of commerce between all the parts of this vast world ; we already see enough to hope everything of Jie future. Thus, gentlemen, the watery element reigns in the New World; add to this, that half of its lands are exposed to the rays of the tropical sun, but that, all the conditions being equal, America is, on the whole, a little less warm than the Old World, and we shall have the essential features of its. climate. The oceanic climate 18* 210 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRa?HT. this is what America owes to the fundamental forms and the relative disposition of its lands ; while the Old World is indebted to it for the preponderance of the dry and continental climate. Let us now follow out the consequences of these physical circumstances upon the development of organic beings, and the character of the New World will come out in all its clearness. The warm and the moist these are the most favor- able conditions for the production of an exuberant vegetation. Now, the vegetable covering is nowhere so general, the vegetation so predominant, as in the two Americas. Behold, under the same parallel, where Africa presents only parched table lands, those bound- less virgin forests of the basin of the Amazon, those selvas, almost unbroken, over a length of more than 1,500 miles, forming the most gigantic wilderness of this kind that exists in any continent. And what vigor, what luxuriance of vegetation ! The palm trees, with their slender forms, calling to mind that of America itself, boldly uplift their heads 150 or 200 feet above the ground, and domineer over all the other trees of these wilds, by their height, by their number, and by the majesty of their foliage. Innumerable shrubs and trees of smaller height fill up the space that separates their trunks; climbing plants woody-stemmed t Tining lianos, infinitely varied, surrouid them both witk their flexible branches, display their own flowers upon the foliage, and combine them in a solid mass of vegetation, impenetrable to man, which the axe alone can break thro igh with succ )ss. On the bosom of their peaceful THE VEGETATION IS PREDOMINANT. 211 waters swims the Victoria, the elegant rival of the Rafflesia, that odorous and gigantic water lily, whose white and rosy corola, fifteen inches in diameter, rises with dazzling brilliancy from the midst of a train of immense leaves, softly spread upon the waves, a single one covering a space of six feet in width. The rivers rolling their tranquil waters under verdurous domes, in the bosom of these boundless wilds, are the only paths nature has opened to the scattered inhabitants of these rich solitudes. Elsewhere, in Mexico and Yucatan, an invading vegetation permits not even the works of man to endure; and the monuments of a civilization comparatively ancient, which the antiquary goes to investigate with care, are soon changed into a mountain of verdure, or demolished, stone after stone, by the plants piercing into their chinks, vigorously pushing aside, and breaking with irresistible force, all the o> stacles that oppose their rapid growth. South America, and particularly the basin of the Amazon, is the true kingdom of the palm trees; no- where does this noble form of vegetation show itself under a greater number of species. This is a sign of the preponderating del Jopment of leaves over every other part of the vegetable growth ; of that expansion of foliage, of that leafoiess, peculiar to warm and moist climates. America has no plants with slender, shrunken leaves, like those of Africa and New Holland. The Ericas, or heather, so common, so varied, so chara teristic of the flora of the Cape of ^ood Hope, is a form inknown to the New World. There is nothing resembling tt.ose Metrosideri of Africa, those dry Myi- 212 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. ties (Eucalyptus) and willow-leaved acacias, whosa flowers shine with the liveliest colors, but their nar- row foliage, turned edgewise to the vertical sun, casts no shadow. Everywhere, long and abundant leaves, an intense verdure, a strong and well-nurtured vegeta- tion, these^re what we find in tropical America. North America, in spite of its more continental cli- mate, shares no less in this character of the New World. The beauty and extent of the vast forests that cover its soil, the variety of the arborescent species composing^ them, the strong and lofty, stature of the trees growing there, all these are too well known for me to stop to describe them. It is because this continent adds to a more abundant irrigation a soil slightly mountainous, almost everywhere fertile, securing to it always an equal moisture, a more abundant harvest of all the vegetables useful to man. Not only is the vegetation abundant in the Ne^ World, but it is universal, and this is a further charac- teristic distinguishing it from the Old. We do not see there those vast deserts, so common in the other con- tinents, and occupying a considerable portion of their surface. The deserts of California and that of Atacama are exceptions, and, compared with those of Africa and Asia, scarcely seem made for anything except to serve as specimens. The llanos of Orinoco, which their geo- logical nature dooms apparently to the fate of Sahara, are CDpiously watered during the rainy season, and are covered then with an admirable vegetation Life, wliich seemed almost to slumber, almost extinguished, springs u\- again n^ore beautiful and more vigorous, ANIMAL LIFE OVERRULED. 213 To the powdered sand, swept along by the winds, succeed rich pastures, where range a multitude of indigenous animals, mingled with herds of horses, and wild asses, coming from Europe; and thousands of reptiles, buried in the watery slime during the dry season, reappear, and fill again with life the temporary rivers and lakes with \vhich these valleys are then over- flowing. The pampas themselves are not without vegetation, and support at all times numerous herds. And who is ignorant that the endless prairies of the Mis- sissippi and the Missouri produce every year an abun- dant vegetation, on which feed the bisons and the other wild tenants of the countries? But what becomes of the animal in the peculiar kingdom of vegetation? Blessings are divided; all treasures belong not to one country alone. This luxu- riant vegetation, it might be said, seems to stifle the higher life, in the animal world. Animal life is, as it were, overruled, enfeebled ; it does not occupy Jiere the first rank, which is its due ; for it is dry heat, the con- tinental element, that favors it. From one end to the other of the animal scale, the families that seem to give to these countries their character, by the number of their species and by their relative abundance, are those connecting themselves, by their mode of life, with the aqueous, or with the veg- etative element. Hence, nothing is more splendid, more sparkling. than the insect world in South America. The inex- haustible variety of their species, the brilliancy of their cclors, the size of their bodies, make them one of tho 214 COMPARATIVE PH\ 6ICAL GEOGRAPHY. most beautiful ornaments of these regions. Here live the Hercules beitle, the largest of the Coleoptera; and those brilliant, broad-wingel butterflies, the Mene- laiis, the Acbnis, the Achilles, whose varying colors glitter in the sun like diamonds. But why be aston- ished? The existence of this little animal world is almost altogether dependent on the vegetation; the wealth of the one must create the wealth of the other. Among the vertebrates, no family is so largely repre- sented as that of the reptiles, for moisture is their ele- ment, and the rivers and temporary lagoons of the rainy season are peopled with Caimans, the crocodiles of the New World; the Iguanas, the most gigantic of the lizards , the Basilisks and other species, which multiply in the warm and sluggish waters. The forests harbor in great numbers those serpents of every form and figure, even to those monstrous boas, that are the terror of the natives themselves. They seem to be at home in this country. But among the superior animals, development seems to be arrested ; it is incomplete. The prevailing types are at the same time the inferior types. Among the birds, the stilt-plovers, inhabitants of the marshes and the shores, of which the number of species far surpasses, in America, that of any other continent. In the mam- mifcra, the order of Edentata, the Armadillos, the Pan- golins, the Ant-eaters, the Sloths, which characterize, more than any other family, the fauna of South Amer- ica, not only in the present epoch, but also in the geological ages. And if we seek representatives of the higher orders, v>. find them less numerous in species INFLUENCE UPON MAN. smaller in size ; in a word, far inferior to the correspond- ing animals of the Old World; in the ordei of the Pachyderms, instead of the elephant, the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, those giants of the Old World, the feeble and harmless tapir and the pecari ; in the Rumi- nants 4 instead of the camel and the dromedary, tho lama of the Andes, which reach only half their size ; instead of the lordly lion of Africa, and the ferocious tiger of the islands of the Ganges, the ounce and the jaguars of the forests of Brazil, which are scarcely more than large cats. In the monkey ., finally, those with a prehensile tail, peculiar to America, are reckoned among the least perfect, the lowest of their order in the scale of organization. Not only are the superior animals ill represented on this continent, but they have not the strength, nor the indomitable courage, not the ferocity, nor the intelligence of the similar creatures of the Old World. Tn all tropical America especially, as we see, the whole animal king- dom remains in an inferior condition. It is subjected to the watery element, and to the vegetable world ; for in those regions where vegetable life is the superior, animal life stands but in the second degree. North America, however, in consequence of her more continental character, possesses some superior types, which recall to mind, and perhaps equal, those of the Old World. The majestic bison, the deer, the elk, and the bear, give evidence of that same vigorous northern nature which predominates in the temperate continents, and of which, as we shall see, North America possesses her share. 216 COMPARATIVE PHYSlL.iL GLOGRAPHY. Man himself, the indigenous man 1 mean, bears in his whole character the ineffaceable stamp of this peculiarly vegetative nature. Living continually in the shadow of those virgin forests which overspread the land he inhab- its, his whole nature has been modified thereby. Tho v r>ry copper hue of his complexion indicates that he lives not, like the negro, beneath the scorching sunbeams. His lymphatic temperament betrays the preponderance in his nature of the vegetative element. The Indian is of a melancholy, cold, and insensible race. " Foreign to our hopes, our joys, our griefs," says a traveller, "it is rarely that a tear moistens his eyes, or that a smile lights up his features." The most barbarous tortures cannot extort from him a single complaint, and his stoical indif- ference is disturbed only by vengeance or jealousy. If he sometimes exhibits a display of prodigious muscular force, he is yet without endurance. Who knows not that when the first invaders of the New World endeavored to com- pel the inoffensive Indians, who had received them as gods, to the rude labors of the mines and the cultiva- tion of the soil, these men of the woods, incapable of enduring fatigue, perished in agony by thousands? And it was thereupon that the Europeans substituted for the Indian the robust and vigorous native of the Old World, the negro, who still, to this day, used as the instruments of the white man's labor, endures, I had almost said, gayly, a degree of toil equal to that which destroyed the native of the country. The social condition of the Indian tribes is tinctured, in an equal degree, by the powerful influence of his vegetative character. The Indian has continued the CONCLUSION. . 217 j&an of the forest. He has seldon. elevated himself Above the condition of the hunter, the lowest grade on the scale of civilization. The exuberance of the soil has never been of value to him ; for he asks not of the earth his nourishment. He has never even ascended to the rank of the pastoral man. With him no domestic animals are maintained to feed him with their milk, or clothe him with their fleeces, as they are by the nomadic races of the Old World. From one to the other extrem- it y of America, we find the same lamentable spectacle ; the people of the elevated table lands of Mexico and Peru are the only exception to this picture, and this exception goes far to establish the influence of the vege- tative and humid nature of the lower plains of America. For if these nations do not exhibit the same character of inferiority ; if they have raised themselves a little higher hi the sphere of humanity, by the aid, perchance, of ele- ments foreign to their own continent, it can be for no other cause than that, living in those heights, those aerial islands, above the influence of the hot and humid atmosphere, they have been removed from the potency of its action. Such, gentlemen, is the order, the admirable connectior of the phenomena ot nature with each other. The con- formation and position of the New World give to it a hot an ji watery climate ; this impresses its own character on all the organized creation. Man himself, the one being preeminently free, is liable to its influence, in proportion as he neglects the exertion of those superior faculties wherewith he is endowed for the conquest and subjuga- 19 218 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAi GEOGRAPHY. tion of that, nature which was intended, not to govern, but to serve him. We may rest, then, in this conclusion, that, as compared with the Old World, the New World is the humid side of our planet, the oceanic, vegetative world, the passive element awaiting the excitement of a livelier impulse from without. Such is the America of Nature, such was it before the arrival of the man of the Old World. Wa know already, and we shall see bettei yet hereafter, ail that his superior intelligence has been e .alr^l to effect in the way of irr proving upon nature. LEC'I URE IX. Geographical characteristics of the Old World The continent of Asia-Europe Comparison of its structure with that if America The continental climate prevailing in the Old World Conse- quences Vegetation less abundant Preponderance of the animal world The Old World the country of the higher and historical races Reciprocal action of the two worlds by means of man Establishment of the man of the Old World in the New Histor- ical America compared with Europe Alliance of the two worlds ; solution of the contrast. AND GENTLEMEN : The comparison we have made between the Old World and the New, and the detailed study of the first, have enabled us, I think, to determine its true character, the character assigned to it by its physical nature. The character it owes to its more oceanic position, to the abundance of the waters, to a more tropical situation, to a more fertile soil, is the marked preponderance of vegetable life over animal life. A vigorous vegetation, abundant rather than delicate, immense forests, a soil everywhere irrigated, everywhere productive these are the wealth of America. Nature has given her all the raw materials with liberality; has lavished upon her all useful gifts. But our globe would be incomplete, gentlemen, A f this element were alone represented, if this were the only world that existed. The comparative study we have commenced has shown us already that this it> no f the 220 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. case ; the group of continents combined in the eastern hemisphere has already appeared as possessing an assemblage of characters, securing to it an entirely different nature. One of the two worlds is by no means a repetition of the other ; for the Author of all things is too rich in his conceptions ever to repeat himself in his works. We know already a good number of the physical characteristics of the Old World, an unknown world to us no more. Nevertheless, it is well to recall them here, in order to group them in a single picture, and to deduce from them the essential and characteristic feature which distinguishes it from America. The number of the continents, double that of the New World, their grouping in a more compact and solid mass, make it already and preeminently the continental world. It is a mighty oak, with stout and sturdy trunk, while America is the slender and flexible palm tree, so dear to this continent. The Old World if it is allow- able to employ here comparisons of this nature calls to mind the square and solid figure of man ; America, the lithe shape and delicate form of woman. The direction of the principal reliefs, the prolongation of the Old World from east to west, and its more north- ern position, cause it to belong rather to the temperate zones than to the zone of the tropics, and give, thiough- out its whole length, a more similar climate. If America is distinguished by the simplicity of its 'nter'or structure, and by the consequent imity of char- acter, the Old World, on the contrary, presents the variety of stmctur* carried to its utmost limits. While America THE OLD WORLD. 221 as we have seen, is constructed upon one and the same plan in the two continents, the Old World has at least three, as many as its separate masses; one for Asia and Europe, one for Africa, a third for Australia ; for, in spite of their resemblance in certain general features, common to them, as the law of the reliefs has taught us, each of these three continents has none the less its special struc- ture, which is not the same in Australia as in Africa, nor in Africa as in Asia-Europe. The great mass of Asia-Europe, which may be well called a single continent, of a triangular form, whose western point is Europe Asia-Europe, by itself, forms already the pendant of the two Americas. Like the New World, it is divided into two parts by a long ridge of heights, of mountain chains, and of table lands, forming a line of the highest elevations, and the axis of this con- tinent; the Himalaya, the Hindo-Khu, the Caucasus, the Alps, the Pyrenees, are analogous to the long American Cordilleras. This ridge also divides the Old World into two unequal parts, but is not placed on one of the edges of the conti- nents, as in America. It is only a little out of the centre, so that it divides the whole surface into two opposite slopes, unequal certainly, but the narrower is neverthe- less considerable. The northern slope is more vast : it contain s all the greaf plains of /he North, but it is less favored by the climate, and by the forms of tne soil. The southern slope is less extended, but it enjoys a more beautiful climate; nature is richer there; it is move indented, more variously moulded ; it possesses all those fine peninsulas, ti e two Indies, Arabia, Asia Minor, 19* 222 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Greece, 1 taly, Spain, which form the wealth of Asia and Europe. Figure to yourselves the coasts of the Pacific, furnished with a series of peninsulas of this description, and you will have an idea of the augmentation of wea'tfc that would result to America from such an addition. We will point out still another difference. While in America the plains are always situated on the same side of the chain of the Andes, in Asia-Europe the table lands and the plains are situated on the two sides of the continental axis alternately. Thus, in East- ern Asia, the great plateau of Tubet and Mongolia is on the north, and the plains of the Ganges are on the south. In Western Asia, on the contrary, the plateaus of Afghanistan and Persia are on the south, the plains of Tartary on the north. In Europe, a different situ- ation still ; on the south of the Alps and the Pyrenees are the peninsulas and their gulfs, the mountain chains and their plateaus ; in general, countries more elevated, but broken and dispersed ; on the north, are chains more varied, lower; countries more continuous, less cut up, and the great plains of the North of Germany. All the combinations seem, if I may say so, to have been exhausted. This is not all yet. The axis of Asia-Europe, instead of forming a continuous wall, without gap and without breaks, like the Andes, is composed of several isolated systems, independent of each other, often leaving wide apanings between them. Sometimes it is a sea that separates them; sometimes vast plains serve as high roads to the invading nations, who pass from one side to the other of this great Carrier, from the northern to the ASIA -EUROPE, STRUCTURE. 223 southern world. Thus, the lofty chains of the Him- alaya, and of Hindo-Khu, sink towards the west and disappear, and no important ridge any longer separates the inhabitants of the steppes of Lake Aral from tho dweller on the table land of Iran. The Caucasus rues abruptly from the level of the Caspian, and terminates in the same way at the margin of the Black Sea ; and it is only upon the high shore of this sea that the moun- tains of Transylvania arid the Balkan again begin to separate the northern from the southern world. This break opens to the polar winds and the northern tribes 'he broad gate which has cost the south such, fierce assaults. The Alps, finally, do not touch the Pyrenees, and the Languedoc canal, uniting the Mediterranean with the ocean, proves the importance of this communi- cation between the two basins. Let us add, finally, that a large number of chains, parallel to this great line, and of others cutting it trans- versely, Ifke the Bolor, the Ghauts of the Deccan, and the numerous chains of Indo-China, the Lebanus, the Oural, the Scandinavian Alps, to mention only the prin- cipal, cut the soil in all directions, divide it into a multi- tude of different basins, of natural regions, having their several limits, their climate, their special character, and we shall be convinced of the truth of the assertion, that in the Old World, variety of structure is canied to the extreme. Thus, while America is distinguished by simplicity of form? and unity of plan, the Old World has in turn a diversity of reliefs, of combinations of mountain chains, of p'-.teaus and of plan s, multiplying to infinity those 224 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOOR 1PHY. differeric :s. those interior contrasts, wherewith America is less richly provided, and which, as we know, are one of the most powerful means of development. The character of the climate of the Old World, taken as a whole, is a result of all the general features of con- figuration we have thus far ascertained. The vast extent of this group of continents, the height and num- ber of its table lands, the greater elevation of its eastern regions, close it against the influences of the ocean, scarcely holding its empire over the shores. If the climate of the New World bears, in general, the oceanic character, that of the Old World, on the other hand, is dry, comparatively hot, extreme ; in a word, continental. If the western hemisphere is the humid side of oui globe, the eastern hemisphere is the arid side. The character of the climate of the Old World is reflected in the organic beings, as we might expect, and it stamps, on the vegetation and the animal world, a special impress, important to be noticed. In the Old World the vegetation is less universal, less plentiful, than in the two Americas. Nowhere on its surface du we encounter virgin forests, whose extent can be compared with the boundless selvas of the Amazon ; they are found, doubtless, in the tropical regions of Africa and tho Indies ; but they are rather local phenom- ena, and do rADIES AND GENTLEMEN : We have considered the whole of the terrestrial masses, as grouped in two great individuals, the Old and the New World, which have exhibited themselves as possessing each a special character, particular advan- tages, but completing each other, and forming, as it were, two halves of one great organization. The union of these two worlds, the resources of which have been drawn out by the most intelligent and active races, by the most advanced societies, is the condition, and must become the means of a progress of the human race, much superior to what it would have been in each of NORTHERN WORLD AND SOUTHERN WORLD. 241 fhe two worlds isolated from each uther. It is at least the hope given us by the law of the resolution of the con- trasts into a more perfect harmonious unity, which is the natural product of all normal development. All that passes under our eyes at the present day, this life of interchanges between the two worlds, so active, so pow- fiiful, so progressive, is a proof that we are adv?rxrig irresistioly tr so desirable a result. We have now to -.onsider our continents only under one remaining aspect, under a third point of view, which [ hope will disclose to us some of the hidden influences they seem to exercise upon the life of man ; or rather, which will enable us to observe one of those admirable harmonies of nature and history, arranged by the Creator himself for the improvement of this privileged being, for whom all nature seems made. This third contrast, we have said, is that of the north- ern and of the southern hemisphere, or rather of the three continents of the North and the three continents of the South. We have considered the earth as divided into an Eastern World and a Western World ; we shall now see it distributed into a Northern World and a Southern World. 1 recall this curious disposition of the continental masses I pointed out, at our first interview, according to Steffens, which consists in this, that each northern con- tinent has south of it a southern continent, more or less connected with it, whether materially by an isthmus or a chain of islands and an archipelago, or by the prox- imity of theii extreme lands. The two continents, thv brought near together, make always a pair, the inc'ivid- 21 242 COMPARATIVE. PHYSIC.vL GOGRAP'IY. uals being at once connected and opposite in nature, Such are the two Americas, a perfect type of the kind ; such, again, are Europe and Africa, Asia arid Australia. This arrangement, then, gives us three continents ic the North, and three in the South. Now, combining in this point of view the prevailing features of their phys- i ;al configuration, of their situation and of their climate, I would show you : 1. That the continents composing each of the two groups have common characters, the three in the North resembling each other, and the three in the South pre- senting equally strong analogies. 2. That these characters are different and opposed in the two groups, and constitute a contrast. 3. That this dissimilar nature assigns to the one a very different part from the others in the progress of human society. Let us see, first, how they are distinguished by theii general forms and by their configuration. The continents of the North are more outspreac, more extended, and, taken together, much more vast They embrace all the plains of the arctic and temperate regions, the most considerab.e and the most continuous on the surface of the globe, and forming a great circular zone of low lands around the Frozen Ocean. Tho southern continents are more contracted, more narrowed and pointed, and, in the whole, less extensive. While the three first embrace a surface of 22 1 millions of square miles, the last comprise only 16J millions. The continents of the North are more indented, more THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN C( NTINENTS. 243 articulated ; their contours are more varied. Gulfs ai>d inland seas cut very deep into the mass of their lands, and detach from the principal trunk a multitude of peninsulas, which, like so many different organs and memb3is, are prepared for a life, in some sort, inde- pendent. A great number of continental islands are scattered along their shores, and are a new source oi wealth to them. The plastic forms of the soil are still more varied. We have already seen that, in this re- spect, Europe and Asia present the most complicated structure, and the relative situations of the mountain chains and of their plateaus and their plains, exhaust, so to speak, all the possible combinations. The southern continents, on the other hand, are massive, entire, without indentations, without inland seas or deep inlets, scanty in articulations of every kind, and in islands. They are trunks without members, bodies without organs, and the simplicity of their inte- rior structure answers to the poverty of their exterior forms. These differences are carried to the extreme in the Old World, where the rich border of peninsulas which deck the South of Asia and of Europe, hanging like th( ample folds or the fringes of a royal robe, form a strik ing contrast to the mean and naked lines of Africa and Australia. In the New World, where this contrast is softened, by reason of the unity of plan we hare clearly made out, the northern continent meantime pot sesses by itself the few peninsulas which detach themselves from its coasts, Yucatan, Florida, Nova Scotia, Labrador. California and the peninsula of Aliaska. 244 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GKOGRAPH*. Already, then, by the forms of their contouis and ol their relief, the continents of the North are more jpen to maritime life, to the life of commerce : they aie* more richly organized ; they are better made to stimulate im- provement. The relative situations of the continents of the tvi o groups are equally dissimilar. The northern continents are brought nearer together, more consolidated. United, they form the central mass of all the lands of the globe, whence the others appeal to radiate in all directions, losing themselves as they taper off in the ocean. For this reason, they have a more continental character. Owing to this greater nearness, to the facility of communication between one continent and another, to the analogy of their climate, which we shall speak of by-and-by, the three northern continents have a mutual relationship not to be mis- taken. From the shores of the Pacific Ocean, along the coast of temperate Asia, even to the western ex- tremity of Europe, the vegetation presents the same aspect, the same general physiognomy. The European traveller finds, from one end to the other of this im- mense space, the pine forests, the oaks, the elms, the maples his eye has been accustomed to from infancy. In the Himalaya, the Caucasus, or the Balkan, he bs-iolds again with delight those humble but graceful forms of the flora he has become acquainted with in th3 Alps and t'.ie Pyrenees. If he crosses the Atlantic, whit surprises him at the first glance is, not the nov- elty of the vegetable forms which he was perhaps ex- . ecting after a voyage of thirty-five hundred miles ; it THE NORTHERN WORLD MOKE ALIKE. 245 is the resemblance of physiognomy and aspect, so great that, in the bosom of the vast forests of Ohio or Canada, he might almost believe he had not quitted the soil of Europe. Nevertheless, we hasten to say, this resem- blance is not identity. The eye of the botanist, even that of the simple observer, would soon perceive that, if the types remain the same, the species aie different. If they are almost always analogous, they are seldom identical. In the animal world, the same analogy brill. Noth- ing is more alike, at the first view, for example, than those thousands of coleopterous insects, which inhabit the two worlds. The same air, the same look in the corresponding species. It is a singular fact, observed also in the vegetative kingdom, and still a mystery, that a given genus, in Europe composed of a determi- nate number of species, is found again in America, with an almost equal number of corresponding species, with the same particularities of forms repeated, even to the design and to the same disposition of colors. And yet, to the trained eye of the naturalist, every American species constitutes one very distinct from the analogous species of the European continent. What takes place with regard to the genera and species is further true of certain families and tribes. The examples of this are numerous, and I would cite them but for the fear of offending your ears by names which would appear bar- barous. Rela ions of the same kind exist between the vertebrates, between the fishes, between the birds of the two worlds, and it is to these deceptive resemblances that the confnsion of species and the mistakes of syn- 21* 246 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. onvms are owing, so numerous in American zoology, and so hurtful to its progress. The mammalia, finally, make no exception to this law. The reindeer is com- mon to the polar regions of the three continents; the bison reminds one of the wild bull and the ox of Europe and of Asia; the bears, also, are but slightly different from those of the Old World; the e]k and certain kinds of stags are so similar, that the zoologist is still in doubt whether they constitute different species or not. Thus the resemblance of the organized beings in the three continents of the North is one of their distinctive characters ; and this character is due to the circumstance that, in proportion as the species change with the longi- tude, their place is taken generally, not by new types, but by analogous species. Doubtless the similarity of climate is one of the most active causes of this resem- blance ; for the variety of the genera, the differences between the species of the three continents, augment according to the elevation of temperature ; but this is not enough to explain the fact entirely ; we shall see that the continents of the South, under similar latitudes and in similar temperatures, offer types of animals and of vegetation very different in^each of them. The continents of the South are more remote from >?ach other than the foregoing. Broad oceans separate them even to isolation. Scarcely any communication :s possible between lands so distant ; at all events, they are only indirect. Shut up in themselves, incapable of reacting upon each other and of modifying their respec- tive natures, the3 continents are excluded from all .ownrinity of life. What is there astonishing, then, in THE SOUTHERN CONTINENTS MORE UNLIKE. 247 eeing their diiferences carried to an extreme, then characters exaggerated 1 The organized beings of the two kingdoms in these Jiree continents have, in reality, almost ceased to pos- jess anything in common. Not only the species that characterize their floras and their faunas are different, but they are no longer analogous, and the prevailing forms, the grand types, are partly quite different. This is true, above all, of their southern extremities, of thei points, more isolated still than the central or northern parts. In Australia, it is the gigantic Myrtacetie, the flaring Eucalypti, so varied ; the Melaleucas, the numer- ous species of which compose the greater part of the trees of the forests ; it is the graceful Mimosas, and their Acacias with leaf-like branches ; it is the meagre Casua- rinas, and still other forms whose stunted foliage betrays the dryness of the soil, that give a particular physiog- nomy to the whole aspect of nature. Marsupials of huge size, the kangaroos, and other analogous animals, gambol in these forests and in the vast savannas; in the marshes, the Ornithorhynchus, unknown to every other continent, whose shapeless type brings to mind the earliest ages of the world, and seems not to belong to the existing epoch. In Southern Africa, other forms are found, aiuther nature. With the pale foliage of the Proteacea;, are blended the Stapelias, the aloes, with their pulp) leaves and their brilliant corollas ; the Irideae, with their bold bearing and splendid colors ; the geraniums : the heaths, above all, the numberless species of which astonish the eye by their variety, as much as they chaim it by thei 248 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. modest grace. In place o.' the jumping kangaroos, herds of nimble gazelles and graceful antelof es wander over the vast plains of the high regions of Africa. The hyena, the panther, the lion, strangers to Australia, and witnesses to a stronger and nobler nature; the giraffe, wrf.uch Africa alone possesses; all, in a word, assume another aspect and a peculiar stamp. If we pass now to South America, the animated world changes its physiognomy still again. The preponderance and the variety of its palm trees ; in the richest regions, the cactus, whose heavy form contrasts with the daz- zling colors of the flowers ; then the clumsy armadillos, the tapirs, the ant-eaters, the long-tailed apes, and so many other animals characteristic of this continent, which we have already named ; all this has nothing to remind us of Africa. Thus, between the three southern continents there is no community; out of 437 genera of the Australian flora, scarcely 80 are met with in Africa ; no analogous species, substitutes for each other ; none of those social plants covering whole provinces in Europe, Asia, and North America, and giving them a like character. The 280 species of heath of the Cape occupy a space scarcely so extensive as is occupied in the North of Europe by the common heather (Erica vulgaris) alone, so extensively growing in its barren regions. Thus, in the North, we have combination, association, resemblance; in the South, separation, isolation, dissimilarity. But if the northern continents are evidently favored by their lorms and then: grouping, is it the same also mical situation of these two groups is, in reality, quite different. In consequence of the general arrangement of the lands, crowding them in a mass towards the North, the three continents of the North are situated almost entirely in the temperate zone, in the middle latitudes. North America and Europe are 3n- tirely in the temperate and frozen zones ; Asia is so with respect to its principal mass, and touches the tropical regions only by its southern extremity. Thus it is seven parts temperate and cold for one tropical. The southern continents, on the contrary, expose their principal and most important mass to the rays of the equatorial sun. Africa has four parts out of five in the tropical zone, and the fifth is situated in the warm tem- perate, and moreover is divided into two narrow belts, separated on the north and the south of the body of the continent. South America has five parts out of six in the tropics, and the sixth part, temperate, is composed only of the southern point, the poorest in all respects, which cannot claim to stamp its character. Australia, finally, belongs three "fifths only to the torrid zone; nevertheless, it should be said that the other two fifths, situated in the warm temperate zone, give it its distinc- tive physiognomy, so that we have called it the sub- tropical continent. Thus, taken as a whole, and in their prevailing char- acter, the three northern continents are temperate, the three southern continents are tropical. C~0"*+ % Which ai3 the most favored? which are those we consider superior to the others? The answer would be easy, if the existence of the 250 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. continents had no other definite end than the exhibition of the whole physical life of nature. But let us not forget that they are to serve a much higher end still ; they are to serve the development of man, and of human societies. It is in this two-fold point of view that we !>ught to consider them. In the order of nature, and at the first approach, we sannot deny to the tropical continents a marked superi- ority. The most powerful spring of physical life, the most active source, surpassing all the others, is the heat of that life-giving orb the ancient poets sang, and the nations of the world, forgetting the only true Creator of all things, adored as the parent of Nature. But by reason of the spherical form of the earth, each district of the surface receives an unequal portion. Slanting, scattered, and feeble in the regions neighboring the poles, the beams of the sun assume more strength, and fall thicker in the middle regions ; in those of the equator only, they gain all their intensity, all their splendor. Now, in this same proportion, we see the development of life increase in energy and variety, from the poles to the equator. What do we, in reality, see in the polar and frozen countries of the North of our continent? During the greatest part of the year, life seems almost extinguished by the rigorous cold of a perpetual winter. A colorless and stunted vegetation, a few creeping shrubs, none of those stately forests, which everywhere make the orna- ment of the landscape; endless plains covered with mosses and ~chens, composed of only a few species, notwithstanding the immense number of their ind;- PROGRESS WITH INCREASE OF HEAT. 251 victuals. This is the flora of the cold regions. The preponderance of the cryptogamous plants, that is, of the inferior forms of vegetation, the small number of the genera and the species, the absence or scarcity of arborescent vegetation, give it that character of poverty and uniformity which strikes us in these desolated lands. The animal kingdom, thanks to greater freedom of loco- motion, is better represented; but the small number of types and the preponderance of marine animals, st 1 keep up a character of inferiority not to be misunder- stood. In the temperate zone, the number of genera and species is more than doubled ; the superior types acquire a fuller development and more importance. In the vege- tation, the preponderance of the phanerogamous plants, the beauty of the forests, the appearance of evergreen trees, are the signs of an immense progress. Meantime, the soft tints, the modest forms, the winter sleep, still in- terrupting the life of vegetation during long months, tell us that the triumph of life is not yet complete. The same progress goes on in animal life ; the land animals prevail ; the animal species become more numerous and more diverse. But it is in the hot region of the tropics that the life of nature displays its fullest energy, its greatest diversity its most dazzling splendors. We have already seen wha: it can produce in those favored countries of India and the Indian archipelago, where all the conditions seem brought together to secure to physical life its richest development. The cryptogamous plants attain, in the arborescent ferns, the proportions of our forest treea 252 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The grasses, which we only know in our climates unctaf the humble forms they put on in our fields and pastures, rise into the elegant and majestic bamboo, to the height of 60 to 70 feet, and become real trees, whose hard and hollow trunks serve for the construction of public edi- fices, as well as for that of private houses. There, the ontire forests seem double in height, and of a density unknown in our climates. A single tree is a garden, wherein a hundred different plants intertwine their branches, and display their brilliant flowers on a ground of verdure, where the varied hues and forms of their leaves are blended together. The number of the species, the beauty of the -types, are not less astonishing. While, in America, the temperate zones of the two hemispheres furnish scarcely more than four thousand species of plants, the tropical region of this same continent has already made known more than thirteen thousand ; so that probably the comparatively narrow zone of the tropics contains much more than half of the vegetable species living on the surface of our continents. The animal kingdom is no less developed, as we already know, in this privileged zone. The boundless variety of species, the vivacity of the colors, the diver- sity of the shades, strike us in the insects and the birds. We admire the lofty stature and the strength of those great pachyderms that people its forests and its rivers ; the force and vigor of the ferocious inhabitants of the deserts of Africa and the Ganges. It is true, gentlemen ; here Nature triumphs ; here she displays herself in all hei brilliancy. Such is the law in' the physical worid. Nature goes n adding perfection to perfecron, from the polar regions PROGRESS WITH INCREASE Ol HEAT. 253 to the temperate zones, from the temperate zones to the region of the greatest heat. Animal life grows in strength and development ; the types are improved ; intelligence increases; the forms approach the human figure; the orang-ou iang already stands erect upon his feet ; trained np by man, he has been seen to sit at his table and to eat with him ; the negro of the woods, deceived by these appearances, regards him as a degenerated brother, who holds his tongue only from a desire to get rid of work. Evidently the development of the animal here touches upon its highest expression. This ascending series will then risejx) its termination in man, who, in his figure, is the crowning excellence of the whole animal world, and the realization of its very idea ; and the tropical man also will be the highest, the purest type of humanity, and, physically speaking, the most beautiful of his species. All zoology, all nature, gentlemen, authorize us to draw this conclusion, and, for my part, I have no hesitation in believing that il would be so if man had no other rank upon this earth and no other functions than those assigned him by his physical nature. No, indeed, gentlemen, it is no such thing. Who does not know that man makes here a wonderful exception ? Par from exhibiting that harmonious outline, those noble and elevated forms, all those perfections the chisel of a Phidias or a Praxiteles has combined upon a single head, the tropical man displays only those unfortunate figures which seem to approach ever neare r and nearer the animal, and which betray the instincts of the brute those figures which we always behold with, I know nol 22 254 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY whai of secret uneasiness, that woulu threaten to grow into disgust, were not the feeling lost in j.ity still more profound, and in the charity of a Christian heart. Even in that India, where physical life attains the utmost limits known to our earth, the indigenous man is a black ; the white race history compels us to believe it has descended thither from the temperate regions of Western Asia. If the distribution of the human races on the surface of tho globe does not follow the law of the rest of nature, what, then, is the law that regulates it? Or, indeed, is there some great, fact which may prove to be a rule in this seeming confusion ? Much has been said, gentlemen, much has been written, on this important question of the human rac^s one of the most difficult and the most delicate the science of nature and history can propose to itself. I am not going to discuss it here ; but what I desire is, to establish, in this province also, a great general fact, which, as it seems to me, has not been sufficiently insisted on, and to which has not been attributed the importance-it deserves. This fact is the following: While all the types of animals and of plants go on decreasing in perfection, from the equatorial to the polar regions, in proportion to the temperatures, man presents to our view his purest, his most perfect type, at the very centre of the temperate continents, at the centre of Asia- Europe, in the regions of Iran, of Armenia, and of the Caucasus ; and, departing from this geographical centre in the three grand directions of the lands, the types ap adually lose the beauty of their forms in proportiou DISTRIBUTION OF RACES. 255 to theii distance, even to the extreme point? of the southern continents, where we find the most deformed and degenerate races, and the lowest in the scale of humanity. Please to cast a glance upon this series of drawings, portraits taken from nature, from individuals who seemed to have the most characteristic features of their respec- tive races, and you will be convinced that the fact exists. (See plates v. and vi.) Let us take for a type of the central region of Western Asia, this head of a Caucasian. What strikes us imme- diately is the regularity of the features, the grace of the lines, the perfect harmony of all the figure. The head is oval; no part is too prominent beyond the others; nothing salient nor angular disturbs the softness of the lines that round it. The face is divided into three equal parts by the line of the eyes and that of the mouth. The eyes are large, well cut, not too near the nose nor too far from it ; their axis is placed on a single straight line, at right angles with the line of the nose. The facial angle is 90 degrees. The stature is tall, lithe, well proportioned ; the shoulders neither too broad nor too narrow. The length of the extended arms is equal to the whole height of the body ; in one word, all the proportions reveal the perfect harmony which is the essence of beauty. Such is the type of the white race the Caucasian, as it has been agreed to call it the most pure, the most perfect type of humanity. In proportion as we depart from the geographical centre of the races of man, the regularity diminishes, the harmony of the proportions disappears. Let us 256 COMPAR .TIYE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. follow them first in the direction of Europe and of 'Africa. Although the European may be considered as making a part of this central race, his features have less of regu- larity, of symmetry ; but more animation, more mobility, more life, more expression. In him, beauty is less phys- ical and more moral. If we pass into Africa, we meet the Arab, who, whether in his own country or in Algeria, shows already a forehead slightly retreating, a head lengthened out of proportion. The Galla of Abyssinia is almost black, his long hair begins to crisp, his lips are often thick. The CafTre has the woolly hair and thick lips of the negro. The Hottentot, lastly, so struck the first colo- nists of the Cape by his ugliness, that he served for a long time as a symbol to express the most degraded state of humanity. On the other coast of Africa, more remote from Asia, the degeneracy of form is still more rapid. The Berbers of the Atlas still evidently belong to the Caucasian race; but their prolonged head, a tendency in the mouth to pouting, the spare and meagre forms, a deeper color, already herald a marked degen- eration. The Fellatahs of Soudan, and still more the inhabitants of Senegal, bring us to the pure type of the Congo negro. In the latter, the retreating forehead, the prominent mouth, the thick lips, the flat nose, the woolly head, the strongly developed hind-head, announce tha prepondt ranee of the sensual and physical appetites CN er the nobler faculties of the intellect. At the extrem- ity of Africa, the miserable Bushmen are still lower than the Hottentots; and, placed by the side of th DISTRIBUTION OF KACES. 261 Caucasian, mike us see how immense the distance which separates them. If, turn ; ng towards Eastern Asia, we direct our looks as far as the extremity of Australia, the decreasing beauty of the form is not less perceptible, not less grad- ual. The Mongolian, with his prominent cheek-bones, his eyes compressed, wide apart, and elevated at their outer comers, his triangular figure, his squab and square form, is wanting in harmony throughout his entire per- son. The Malays seem to have sprung from a mixture of the Mongolian with White race, which often improves the type. The Papoo of New Guinea, in spite of the blackness of his skin, still preserves some advantages of form ; but the South Australian, with his gaunt body, his lean members, his bending knees, his hump back, his projecting jaws, presents the most melancholy assem- blage the human figure can offer. These portraits of an Australian warrior and of a native woman of Van Diemen's Land, show the last degree to which ugliness can go in this being, created so perfect, and destined to be the lord of all the world. In the third direction, that of America, the same law makes itself felt. This face of an Oto Indian chief would have still some advantages, if the prominence of the cheek-bones, a slight elevation of the outer angle of the eyes, and the size of the jaw, did not clearly betray a less perfect nature. In the South American Indian, all these defects are still more exaggeiated, and give to the races of the South, compared with those of the North, a very marked character of infe:*iori*y Vinally, at the extreme point of the continent, and in 262 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPH1. Terra del Fuego, live the Pecherays, the most misshapen the farthest from any culture, the most wretched, cre that those divine teachings were proclaimed, which the most cultivated communities in the world regard as their dearest treasure, and every man who loves the true, acknowledges to be Truth itself? Was it not there that the chosen people lived, to whom they wer* 1 given in trust to preserve for the world until the time appointed by the Supreme Wisdom ? Was it not there that the Saviour of all the members of the human family appeared, and the gospel of grace and liberty was preached, in the lowly valleys of Judea that gospel which recognized neither Jew, nor Greek, nor Gentile, nor barbarian, and which invites all the races of the earth to salvation, without distinction ? Is it not from the height of the sacred mount where He died upon the cross for all, that Christ bids every human soul, whatever be the ephemeral form of its earthly covering, to a spiritual union which he will consummate in his glory? And these great facts, gentlemen, in- teresting to every human being, these facts whose blessed consequences surround us on all sides at the present day, belong not te the number of those that iiny IMPROVEMENT 1 , THE LA .V OF I.IAN. 267 historical unbelief can ever striKe out of the annals of mankind. Nor are they of secondary importance, considered merely in the results already accomplished ; for who will maintain that, even in the future, man will ever witness an event more important for him than the appearance of the Saviour, and the proclama- tion of the universal gospel, destined to unite all men, anji at the same time to bind them all to their common Creator 1 Now, if man came from the hands of the divine Author of his being, pure and noble, it was in those privileged countries where God placed his cradle, in the focus of spiritual light, that he had the best chance to keep himself such. But how has he fallen elsewhere so low? It is because he was free, of a perfectible nature, and consequently capable also of falling. In the path of development, not to advance is to go back ; it is impossible to remain stationary. The animal does not degenerate, because the form of his existence is neces- sary ; he is not required to add anything. But man, who should grow in perfection by the constant extrcise of the higher faculties of his nature, by struggling against the evil inclinations of a perverted will, man descends ever- more, and proceeds from fall to fall, if he neglects those divine gifts, and abandons himself to the low instil .cts of his animal nature. He goes down to the life of the brate, whose form and semblance he takes. And what will conae to pass if, separated from his God, and forget- ting Hun, he voluntarily stops the sources of the higher life, and moral life? Remote from the focus of tradition whee he might renew the temper of his faith, no 268 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. remains unarmed in combat with that mighty nature that subjugates him ; he yields in the struggle, and ; vanquished, bears soon upon his figure the ineffaceable mark of bondage. Thus, perhaps, might one, I do not say explain, but conceive, the incontestable influence of each continent, and each region of the earth, on. the physical forms, the character and the temperament of the man who dwells in it, and the degeneracy of his type in proportion as he is removed from the place of his origin, and the focus of his religious traditions. Renouncing moral liberty, which exists only in good- ness, man gives to nature power over himself, submits co it, and thus are traced and distinguished, a race of Eastern Asia, an African race, an Australian race, a Polynesian race, an American race. We must con- fess, however, it is not granted to follow out, either in nature or in history, the steps of this transformation; a transformation that could only have taken place, at the time when the human race in their infancy had still the flexible and plastic nature of the child; and we must repeat, the origin of the human races is a fact beyond our observation and anterior to all history, an 1, like all other origins, is screened by an impenetra- ble veil. Since man is made to acquire the full possession and mastery of his facult es by toil, and by the exercise of all his energies, no climate could so well minister to his progress in this work as the climate of the temperate continents. It is easy to understand this. An excessive heat enfeebles man ; it invites to repose and inaction. In the tropical regions the power of life ACTION OF CLIIUATE UPON MAN. 269 in nature is carried to its highest degree; thus with the tropical man, the life of the body overmasters that of the soul ; the physical instincts of our nature, those of the higher faculties; passion, sentiment, imagination, predominate over intellect and reason ; the passive facul- ties over the active faculties. A nature too rich, too prodigal of her gifts, does not compel man to snatch from her his daily bread by his daily toil. A regular climate, the absence of a dormant season, render fore- thought of little use to him. Nothing invites him to that struggle of intelligence against nature, which raises the forces of man to so high a pitch, but which would seem here to be hopeless. Thus he never dreams of resisting this all-powerful physical nature ; he is conquered by her ; he submits to the yoke, and becomes again the animal man, in proportion as he abandons himself to these influences, forgetful of his high moral destination. In the temperate climates all is activity, movement. The alternations of heat and cold, the changes of the seasons, a fresher and more bracing air, incite man to a constant struggle, to forethought, to the vigorous em- ployment of all his faculties. A more economical nature yields nothing, except to the sweat of his biow : every gift on her part is a recompense for effort on his. Less mighty, less gigantesque, even while challuiging man to the conflict, she leaves him the hope of victory ; and if she does not show herself prodigal, she grants to his active and intelligent labor more than his necessities req ire ; she allows him ease and leisure, which give hin scope to cultivate all the ofty faculties 23* 27ft COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. of his higher- nature. Here, physical nature is not tyiant, but a useful helper; the active faculties, ths unders'anding and the reason, rule over the instincts ana the passive faculties ; the soul over the body ; man over nature. In the frozen regions man also contends with nature, bat \\rth a niggardly and severe nature; it is a des- perata struggle, a struggle for lift and death. Witb difficulty, by force of toil, he succeeds in providing a miserable support, which saves him from dying of hun- ger and hardship during the tedious winters of that climate. No higher culture is possible under such unfavorable conditions. The man of the tropical regions is the son of a wealthy house. In the midst of the surrounding abun- dance, labor too often seems to him useless ; to abandon himself to his inclinations is a more easy and agreeable pastime. A slave of his passions, an unfaithful servant, he leaves his faculties, the talent God has endowed him with, uncultivated and unused. The work of improvement with him is a failure. The man of the polar regions is the beggar, over- whelmed with suffering, who, too happy if he but gain i/is daily bread, has no leisure to think of anything liore exalted. The man of the temperate regions, finally, is the .nan born in ease, in the golden mean, the most favored Df all conditions. Invited to labor by everything around aim, he soon finds, in the exercise of all his faculties, at ince progress and well-being. Thus, if the tropica continents have the wealth of ACTION OF CLIMATE UPON MAN. 271 nature, the temperate continents are the most perfectly organized for the development of man. They are opposed to each other, as the body and the soul, as the inferior races and the superior races, as savage man anu. civilized man, as nature and history. This con- trast, so marked, cannot remain an open one ; it must be resolved. The history of the development of human societies will give us the solution, or at least will permit 113 to ottain a glimpse of the truth. LECTURE XI the corJinent of the North considered as the theatre of Asia-Euroj!- contrast of the North and South; its influence in history ; co iflict of the barbarous nations of the North with the civil- ized nations of the South Contrast of the East and West Eastern Asia a continent by itself and complete; its nature; the Mongolian race belongs peculiarly to it; character of its civilization Superiority of the Hindoo civilization ; reason why these nations have remained stationary Western Asia and Europe ; the country of the truly historical races Western Asia ; physical description , its historical character; Europe the best organized for the devel- opment of man and of societies ; America future to which it is des- tined by its physical nature. 1 -DIES AND GENTLEMEN : The result of the comparison we have made between tl.e northern continents and the southern continents, in their most general characteristics, has convinced us, if I do not deceive myself, that what distinguishes the former is, not the wealth of nature and the abundance of physical life, but the aptitude which their structure, their situation, and their climate, give them, to minister to the development of man, and to become thus the seat of a life much superior to that of nature. The three continents of the North, with their more perfect races, their civilized people, have appeared as the historical continents, which form a marked contrast to those of the South, w'th their inferior races and their savage tribes. ASIA-EUROPE, THEATRE OF HISTORY. 273 Since his h the salient and distinguishing feature, securing to them decidedly the first place, we shal this evening proceed to study them more in detail as tht theatre 3f history. We know beforehand, gentlemen, that the condit on oi an active, complete development is the multiplicity of the contrasts, of the differences, springs of action and reaction, of mutual exchanges exciting and mani- festing life under a thousand diverse forms. To this principle corresponds, in the organization of the animal, the greater number of its special organs ; in the conti- nents, the variety of the plastic forms of the soil, the localization of the strongly characterized physical dis- tricts, the nature of which stamps upon the peopl< inhabiting them a special seal, and makes them so man] complicated but distinct individuals. The various combinations of grouping, of situation with regard to each other, placing them in a permaneni relation of friendship or hostility, of sympathy or oi antipathy, of peace or of war, of interchange of relig- ions, of manners, of civilization, complete this work, and give that impulse, that progressive movement, which is the trait whereby the historical nations are -ecog- nized. We may, then, expect to see the great facts of the life of the nations connect themselves essentially with these differences of soil and climate, with these contrasts, that nature/ herself presents in the interior of the continents, aid whose influence on the social development of man although variable according to the times, is no less evi- dent in all the periods of his history. 274 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Let us commence our inquiry with the true theatre ol history with Asia-Europe. We have already had occasion to call attention to the unity Df plan exhibited in this great triangular mass, which authorizes us to consider it as forming, in a nat- ural pcint of view, a single continent, whose subdivisions bear the imprint of only secondary differences. We have also indicated, as the most remarkable trait of its structure, that great dorsal ridge, composed of systems Df the loftiest mountains, traversing it from one end to the other in the direction of the length, which may even be regarded as the axis of the continent. It is, in fact, on the two sides of this long line of more than 5,000 miles, on the north and south of the Himalaya, of the Caucasus, of the Balkan, the Alps, and the Pyrenees, that the high lands of the interior of the continent extend. It splits Asia-Europe into two portions, unequal in size, and differing from each other in their configura- tion and their climate. On the south, the areas are less vast ; the lands are more indented, more detached on the whole, perhaps, more elevated; it is the maritime zone of peninsulas. On the north, the great plains pre- vail; the peninsulas are rare, or of slight importance, the ground less varied. But what chiefly distinguishes one of the two parts from the other, what gives to each a peculiar nature, is Jie climate. Those lofty barriers we have just named almost everywhere separate the climates, as well as the ureas. The gradual elevation of the terraces towards the south, up to this ridge of the continent, by pvolong- ng in th? southern direction the frosts of the north, CONTRAST OF NORTH AND SOUTH. 275 augments still further, ia Eastern Asia and in Euiope, the different 3 of temperature between their sides, a:?d renders it more sensible. Thus, almost everywhere, the transition is abrupt, the two natures wide apart. These high ridges arrest at once the icy winds of the poles, and the softened breezes of the south, and separate their domains. The Italian of our days, like the Roman of former times, boasts of his blue sky and his mild climate, and speaks with an ill-concealed contempt of the frosts and the ice of the countries beyond the Alps. To the father of the Grecian poets, to Homer, who knows only the Ionian sky, the countries beyond the Haemus are the regions of darkness, where rugged Boreas reigns supreme. At the northern foot of the Caucasus, the dry steppes of the Manytsch are swept by the frozen winds of the north ; on the south, the warm and fertile plains of Georgia and of Imereth, feel no longer their assaults. In Eastern Asia, finally, the contrast is pushed to an extreme. The traveller, cross- ing the lofty chain of the Himalaya, passes suddenly from the polar climate of the high table lands of Tubet, to the tropical heats and the rich nature of the plains oi the Indus and the Ganges. Yet, as we have said, this great wall, which separates the North from the South, is rent at several points. Between the Hindo-Khu and 'he Caucasus, the depressed edge of the table lane of KJiorasan, between the Caucasus and the Balkan, the p.ains of the Black Sea and of the Danube, open wide their gates to the winds and to the nations of the shores of the Caspian and the Volga. Between the Pyrenees and the Alps, the climates and the peoples of the South penetrate into the North. 276 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Thus two opposite regions are confronted, one on the North, in the cool temperate zone, with its vast steppes and desert table-lands, its rigorous climates, its intense colds, its dry and starveling nature; the other on the South, in the warm temperate zone, with its beautiftu peninsulas, its fertile plains, its blue heavens and its soft climate, its delicate fruits, its trees always green, it? lovely and smiling nature. The contrast of these two natures cannot fail to hav> -: great influence on the peoples of the two regions. I ' it repeated, from the history of the very earliest ages, ir th3 most remarkable manner. In the North the ark' tab. 3 lands, the steppes, and the forests, condemn mar; to the life of shepherds and hunters; the peoples are nomadic and barbarous. In the South, the fruitful plains and a more facile nature invite the peoples to agriculture ; they form fixed establishments and become civilized. Thus in the very interior of the historical con- tinent we find a civilized and a barbarous world, placed side by side. Two worlds so different cannot remain in contaci without reacting upon each other. The conflict begins, one might say, with history itself, and continues through- out its entire duration ; there is scarcely one of the great evolutions, particularly in Asia, not connected with this incessant action and reaction of the North upon the South, and of the South upon the North, of the bar- barian world upon the civilized world. At all periods we see torrents of barbarous nations of the North issuing from their borders and flooding the regions of civilization with their destroying waves. Like the boisterous and CONTRAST OF NORTH AN1J SOUTH. 277 icy winds of the regions they inhabit, they corns sud- denly as the tempest, and overturn everything in theii way; nothing resists their rage. But as after the storrn nature assumes a new strength, so the civilized naftons, enervated by too long prosperity, are restored to life and youth by the mixture of these rough but vigorous chil- dren of the North. Such is the spectacle preser ted by the history of the great monarchies of Asia and of their dynasties ; that of Europe is scarcely less fertile in strug- gles of this kind. Some examples, which I proceed to recall to your memory, will be enough to convince you of the powerful influence of this contrast. As far as the memorials of history ascend, it exhibits, on the table land of Iran and in the neighboring plains of Bactriana, one of the earliest civilized nations, the ancient people of Zend. The Zendavesta, the sacred book of their legislator, displays everywhere deep traces :>f the conflict of Iran, of the southern region, of the light of civilization the Good with the Turan, the coun- tries of the North, the darkness, the barbarous peoples 'he Evil. Who can say that even the idea of this dual- sm of Good and Evil which is the very foundation >f the religious philosophy of Zoroaster, is not, to a cer- .ain extent, the result of the hostile relations between two countries so completely different ? Six centuries before Christ, the barbarous Scythians come down from the North, sweep like a whirlwind through the same gate of the Khorasan upon the plateau of Iran, overrun the flourishing kingdom of Media, and spread themselves as far as Egypt. A whole generation was necessary to re- store to Cyaxares his crown, and to efface the traces of 24 278 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL t iOGRAPHY. this rudt attack. In the eleventh century of our era, (he Seldjouks Turks, descend from the heights of Bolor and Turkestan, invade firs I Eastern Persia, overturn the power of the Gaznevide Sultans, put an ond to that of the Caliphs, and lord it. over Western Asia. But noth- ing equals the tremendous shock caused through the whole of Asia by the invasion of the Mongolians. Issu- ing from their steppes and their deserts, under the con- duct of the daring Gengis-Khan, the hero of his nation, their ferocious hordes extend like a devastating torrent from one end of Asia to another. Nothing withstands their onset; even Europe itself is threatened by these barbarians ; all Russia is subjected, and scarcely can the assembled warriors of Germany drive them back from ;heir frontiers, and save the nascent civilization of the West. China herself beholds a succession of conquerors establish in the North a brilliant empire, and for the first time the two Asias are subject to one and the same dominant people. India alone had been spared; she yields before a fresh invasion, and Sultan Babur who already is no more a barbarian founds, at the begin- ning of the sixteenth century, the mighty Mongolian Empire, which, in spite of its vicissitudes, has existed down to our days, and has yielded only to the power of the nations of civilized Europe. The histcry of China, lastly, is crowded with the struggles of the civilized peo- ple of the plain with the roving tribes of the neighbor- ing table lands, and the last of these invasions, so frequent, that of the Manchou Tartars, -has given to China its presenl rulers. In Europe, the war of the North against the South, CONTRAST OF NOKTH AND SOUTH. 279 though seemingly not so I6ng continued, ib not less serious. Six centuries before our era, bands of Celts, enticed by the attractions of the fertile countries of the South, set forth from Gaul, under the lead of Bellovese and Sigovese, cross the Alps, and proceed to establish themselves in the smiling plains of the Po. Other bands follow them thither, and found a new Gaul beyond the Alps. These impetuous children of the North soon press upon Etruria; and Rome, having drawn upon herself their anger, suffers the penalty of her rashness. About 390 B. C., the city was burnt, and the future mistress of the world well nigh perished in her cradle, by the strong hand of the very men of the North whom she was des- tined afterwards to subject to her laws. A century later, these same Gauls, finding Rome victorious and Italy shut against them, rush upon enervated Greece, give her up to pillage, and, profaning the sacred temple at Delphi, announce the fall of Hellas, and the last days of her glory and her liberty. Another troop of these bold adventurers cut their way into Asia Minor ; they maintain themselves there, objects of terror in the land that bears their name, to the very moment when the power of Rome forced all the nations to bow beneath her iron yoke. A century before the birth of our Saviour, the men of I he North are again in motion. The Cimbri and the Teutons appear at th3 gates of Italy, and spread terror even to Rome herself. Forty years have scarce rolled away when Rome, in her turn, assails the Northern World. Caesar marches to conquer the Gauls, formerly so terrible, and in the course of the ages, they are won 280 COMPAUAT1VE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. to civilization. Thus, by the third gate which opens the wall of separatioi , the Southern World penetrates into that of the North. But a still more earnest struggle then commences. The Germans have preserved their -alive energy, and are still free. Rome is declining, and, little by litlle. the sources of life in that immense body are drying up T.ie weaker it grows, the more the men of the North press upon the mighty colossus, whose head is still of iron, though its feet are of clay. It falls, for its own happiness and that of humanity ; a new sap the fresh vitality of the Northmen is to circulate through it : and soon shall it be born again, full of strength and life. You see, gentlemen, from the beginning to the end of history, the contrast of these two natures exercises it:i mighty influence. The struggle between the peoples of the two worlds is constant. In Asia it may be again renewed, for nature there is unconquerable, and the con- trast still exists. In Europe, the coarse struggle of brute strength of the early days has ended, since, culture hav- ing passed into the North, conquerors and conquered, civilized men and barbarians, have melted down into one and the same people, to rise to a civilization far superior to the preceding. But we behold it reappear, less material but not less evident, between the free and intelligent thinker, and the Protestant of the North, and the artistic, impassioned, superstitious, Catholic man of the South. Let us pass now to a second feature of the structure of th continent Asia-Europe, which has almost - pose a high culture and its accompanying social state. Alexander finds it flourishing and brilliant still, but little changed ; the description the historians of his con- quests have left, is true of modern India when invaded by the Englis i. As much may be said of China, whose 888 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GKOGRAFHY. existing condition seems to present the same essei tial features we know it to have possessed from a time long before our era. Thus, these nations offer the astonishing spectacle of civilized communities remaining perfectly stationary. Three thousand years of existence have made no essential change in their condition, have taught them nothing, have brought about no real progress, have developed none of those great ideas, which effect a com- plete transformation in the life of nations. They are, as it were, stereotyped. What, then, nas been wanting to these peoples, that they have not been favored with a further progress? Why do they all stop short in the career they have entered upon in so brilliant a manner even the Hin- doos of noble race of the race eminently progressive 1 What has been wanting to the corrmiunities of East- ern Asia, gentlemen, is Che possibility of actions and reactions upon each other, more intimate, more perma- nent ; it is the possibility of a common life. These nations are too isolated by nature, too opposite in race and character, to be able to blend in one com- mon civilization. The Hindoos are separated from China by the snowy terraces of the Himalaya, and of the Yun-Nan; from Western Asia, by the high table lands of Caboul. These forms of relief are too huge ; the contrasts resulting from them are too violent ; they are unconquerable by man. Meantime, each of these rich districts may suffice, of itself alone, for a beautiful career of improvement, but each of these peoples fur- nishes but a single type. In their isolation, their excel- lences, as wdl'as their defects, run into excess; nothing WESTERN ASIA AND EUROPE. 289 tempers or corrects them ; their character is more iuli- vidual. Sucii is the strength of these civilizations, that clouds of conquerors are successively absorbed, without modifying them, almost without leaving a trace behind. But individuality is here carried to egoism. Oi tiis very isolation which causes their inferiority, ?>nd kills all progress, they make a conservative princif le. The Hindoo cannot leave his country except by sea; the Vedas forbid it under pain of pollution. Japan and China obstinately close their borders- against all the nations of Europe, and it is only at the cannon's mouth that the English have opened the gates so long shut, and forced them to the life of interchange which will restore them to progress and vitality. Thus, while erything around them is advancing, India and China nave remained stationary. For it is not given to one people alone, any more than to one individual alone, to run through the whole compass of the scale of human progress, by themselves and without the aid of their brethren. Eastern Asia is, then, the continent of ex- treme contrasts and of isolated regions ; of races essen- tially Mongolian ; of stationary civilizations ; of the semi-historical nations. It is not there that the work of the development of humanity can be achieved. The second half of the Old World, in the temperate region, Western Asia and Europe, forms another whole, wherein we are able to point out several common char- acteristics. Besides the division into a North and a Sou tli, on the two sides of the continental axis, the most salient feature is the long table land of Iran, stretching uninterruptediy from India to the extremity of Asia 25 290 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GE.f relations with the nations of the West. Thus the people and the civilizations of Western Asia urere ^aved from the isolation and egoism so fatal FITTED FOR IMPROVEMENT OF MAN. to-China and o India. They perished in appearance, but it was only to sow among the very nations who were their conquerors, the prolific seeds of a fairer growth, whereof the future should gather the fruits. Europe, in her turn, has a character quite special, whose principal features we have already pointed out. Although constructed upon the same fundamental plan w-th the Iwo Asias, it is only the peninsular head- land of all this continent. Her 3 , are uo more of those gigantesque forms of Eastern Asia, no more of those boundless spaces, no more of those obstacles against which the forces of man are powerless, of those contrasts that sunder the opposite natures, even to incompatibil- ity. The areas contract and shrink ; the plateaus and *he mountains are lowered ; the continent opens on ?U sides. None of those mortal deserts to cross, none ol those impassable mountain chains, which imprison the nations. From the foot of Italy to the head of Cape North, from the coasts of the Atlantic to the shores of the Caspian, there is no obstacle a little art may not overcome without much effort. The whole continent k< more accessible ; it seems more wieldy, better fashioned for man. And yet, gentlemen, all the contrasts of both Asias exist, but they are softened, tempered. There is a Northern World, and a Southern World, but they are less different, less hostile; their climates are more alike. Instead of (he tropical plains of India, we find there tho fields of Lombardy ; instead of tL.e Himalaya, the Alps: ins ead 3f the p ateaus of Tubet, those of Bavaria. The contrasts arf even more varied more numerous still 296 'JOMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The table land of the South is broken up into peninsulas and islands ; Greece and its archipelago, Italy and its isles, Spain and its sierras, are so many new individuals, exciting each other reciprocally to animation. The ground is everywhere cut and crossed by chains "of mountains, moulded in a thousand fashions, in such a way as to present, within the smallest possible space, the greatest number of districts physically inde- pendent. Add to all these advantages that of a temperate cli- mate, rather cold than hot, requiring of men more labor and effort, and you will be satisfied that nature is no- where better suited to lift man by the exertion of his powers to the grandeur of his destination. Nevertheless, the earliest civilized societies do not spring up in Europe; she is too far removed from the cradle of the nations, and the beginnings are less easy there. But these first difficulties once over- come, civilization grows and prospers with a vigor unknown to Asia. In Asia it is in the great plains, on the banks of the rivers, that civilization first shows itself. In Europe, it is on the peninsulas and the margin of the seas. Europe is thus the most favored continent, considered with respect to the education of man, and the wise discipline it exercises upon him. More than any other it calls into full play his latent forces, which cannot appear and display themselves, except by their own activity. Nowhere can man better learn to subdue nature, and make her minister to his ends. No con- tinent is more fitted, by the multiplicity of the physica' AMERICA. 297 it presents, to bring into being, and to raise up so many different nations and peoples. But it is not alone for the individual education o each people that Europe excels; it is still more ad- mirably adapted than any other continent to favoi the common relations of the countries with each other, to increase their reciprocal influence, to stimulate them to mutual intercourse. The smallness of the areas, the near neighborhood, the midland seas thick strown with islands, the permeability of the entire continent pardon me the word everything conspires to estab- lish between the European nations that community of life and of civilization which forms one of the most essential and precious characteristics of their social state. America, finally, the third continent of the North, presents itself to us under an aspect entirely different. We are already acquainted with its structure, founded jn a plan widely departing from that of Asia-Europe ; we know that its characteristic is simplicity, unity. Add to this feature its vast extents, its fruitful plains, its numberless rivers, the prodigious facility of com- munication, nowhere impeded by serious obstacles, its oceanic position, finally, and we shall see that it is made, not to gi'.re birth and growth to a new civiliza- tion, but to receive one ready-made, and to furnish forth for man, whose education the Old World- has completed the most magnificent theatre the scene most worthy of Ir.s activity. It is here that all the peoples of Eurorxj may meet together, with room enough to move in may commingle their efforts and their gifts, and carry B98 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. out, upon a scale of grandeur hitherto unknowL, the life-giving principle of modern times the principle of free association. The internal corltrasts which assisted the development of the nations in their infancy and youth, exist not here. ; they would be useless. They are reduced to two general contrasts, which will preserve their importance ; the sea-shore and midland on the one side, and the North and the South on the other. The last will be fur- ther softened down, when slavery, that fatal heritage of another age, which the Union stills drags after it, as the convict drags his chain and ball, shall have disap- peared from this free soil, freed in the name of liberty and Christian brotherhood, as it has disappeared from the fundamental principles of its law. Thus America also seems invited, by its physical nature and by its position, to { lay a part in the history of humanity, very different in leed from that of Asia and Europe, 1 Tit not .ess glorio s, not less useful to all mankind. LECTURE XI... Geographical march of history Asia the cradle of eiri/izajfic a Common character of the primitive nations Powerful influence J nature The human race in its infancy lives under authority, which becomes slavery Civilization pauses to Europe Greece; period of youth ; emancipation ind intellectual and moral development ; action on the East and West; the Greek the teacher of the world Rome; her work, political and social Inability of the Ancient World to attain the end of humanity Coming of Christ; his doctrines new in 1 historical point of view The Germanic Christian world begins their application Civilization passes to the North, and embraces all Europe ; its different phases Europe owes it to the rest of the world Discovery of America Universal inroad of the civilized nations Social work begun at the same time America must finish it The people of the future; by what signs recognized Conclusions Fore- seen solution of the contrast of the three Nortfiern continents and tht three Southern Duties of the privileged races towards the inferior A few words upon the method pursued Science and faith. LAUIES AND GENTLEMEN : The examination we have made of the structure of the northern continents, considered in respect of the influence they exercise through their physical nature upon the condition of human societies, enables us to judge in advance that they are formed to act diflerent parts in the education of mankind. It remains to be seen whether the course of history will confirm these anticipations. Now, if we find a real concordance, a harmony Between these two orders of tacts, we may 300 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. fearlessly assert that these differences of physical organi zation were intentional, and prepared for this end by Him who controls the destinies of the world. The first glance we cast upon the annals of the nations, enables us to perceive a singular but incon- testable fact, that the civilizations representing the Highest degree of culture ever attained by man, at the different periods of his history, do not succeed each other in the same places, but pass from one country to another, from one continent to another, following a certain order. This order may be called the geograph- ical march of history. We now proceed to set this forth by a rapid review of the great phases through which human societies have passed in their gradual improve- ment. Asia, the country of the superior races, Western Asia, above all, the country of the white race, of the historical race, is also the cradle of the earliest civilized commu- nities whose existence is commemorated by history. Tradition universally represents the earliest men descending, it is true, from the high table lands of this continent ; but it is in the low and fertile plains lying at their feet, with which we are already acquainted, that they unite themselves for the first time in national bodies, in tribes, with fixed habitations; devoting them- selves to husbandry, building cities, cultivating the arts ; in a word, forming well-regulated societies. The tradi- tions of the Chinese place the first progenitors of that people on the high table land, whence the great rivers flow; they make them advance, station by station, as far as the shores of the oce.an. The people of the ASIA, THE CRADLE OF^CIVlLIZAI ON. 30 * Brahmins come down from the regions of the Hindo- Khu, and from Cashmere, into the plains of the Indus and the Ganges; Assyria and Bactriana receive their inhabitants from the table lands of Armenia and Persia. These alluvial plains, watered by their twin rivers, \vure better formed than all other countries of the glole, to render the first steps of man, an infant still, easy in the career of civilized life. A rich soil, on which over- flowing rivers spread every year a fruitful loam, as in Egypt, and one where the plough is almost useless, so movable and so easily tilled is it, a warm climate, finally, secure to the inhabitants of these fortunate regions plentiful harvests in return for light labor. Nevertheless, the conflict with the river itself and with the desert, which, on the banks of the Euphrates, as o . those of the Nile ana the Indus, is ever threatening to invade the cultivated lands, the necessity of irrigation, the inconstancy of the seasons, keep forethought alive and give birth to the useful arts and to the sciences of observation. The abundance of resources, the absence of every obstacle, of all separation between the different parts of these vast plains, allow the aggregation of a gieat number of men upon one and the same space, and facilitate the formation of those mighty primitive states which amaze us by the grandeur of their propor- tions. Each of them finds upon its own soil all that is neces- sary for a brilliant exhibition of its resources. We see those nations come rapidly forward and reach in the remotest antiquity a degree of culture, of which the temples and the monuments of Egypt arid of India, and 26 302 COMPARATIVE ^PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. the recently discovered palaces of Nineveh, are h *ing and glorious witnesses. Great nations, then, are separately formed in each of these areas, circumscribed by nature within natural imits. Each has its religion, its social principles, ita civilization severally. But nature, as we have seen, has separated them; little intercourse is established between them ; the social principle on which they a re founded is exhausted by the very formation of the social state they enjoy, and is never renewed. A common life is wanting to them ; they do not reciprocally share with each other their riches. With them movement is stopped; every thir? becomes stable and tends to remain stationary. Meantime, in spite ol the peculiar seal impressed on each of these Oriental nations by the natural conditions in the midst of which they live, they have, neverthe- less, some grand characteristics common to all, some family traits that betray the nature of the continent and the period of human progress to which they be- long, making them known on the one side as Asiatic, and on the other side as primitive. The causes of this phenomenon are at once of a moral nature and of a physical nature. Man is still in the period of infancy, and infancy must needs be trained under the authority of a law which guides his first steps. Even by virtue of an inward nature, of a moral nature reflecting the divine image of his Maker, he cannot grow up to complete development, to his perfect stature, except by fulfilling the will of Him who ?alls him to such lofty destinies. This wili INFANCY OF MANKIND. 303 is tho supreme good; all that departs from it is evil. Man created free must fulfil it freely, and with con- sciousness of its excellence; but this very liberty, the most infallible sign of the nobleness of his nature, con- ceals the danger of a fearful fall. This liberty led the men :>f the earliest times on to that pitch of wickedness which rendered necessary the first great catastrophe of the human race, that earliest great punishment ot tne Flood, of which all nations, even the most barbuiuus, have preserved an appalling memory. Above all things it is the duty of man, if the work of his discipline is not to stop short of its end, to learn his dependence upon the Judge of good and of evil ; to learn that saving fear of God which is the beginning of wisdom, and which alone can regulate the employment of his liberty, and hinder him from surrendering himself to the irregular inclina- tions of his finite nature. Now, God had revealed himself to man ; had made known to him his will, and pointed out the path which he ought to have followed. The Creator himself condescended to guide the steps ol the creature upon the long journey he had to travel. This is what the Bible tells us ; this is confirmed by the vague memorials of all the primitive nations, whose oldest traditions, those antecedent to the philosophica. Theogonies prevalent at a later period, and giving them their specific character, contain always some disfigured fiagmeril of this divine history. But man soon became unfaithful ; like a true prodigal son, he abandoned the benevolent Father, under whose protection he was living ; he cast off the yoke easy to Inar; he forgot the living God who had been revealed 304 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. to him, and, submitting to the lower instincts of his being, he fell under the power of nature. Recall, meantime, to your minds, gentlemen, all thai we have learned of the stupendous and massive forms of that Oriental nature, of its insuperable contrasts, of its climate, tropical in India and in a part of Chinu. very hot still on the banks of the Euphrates and the Nile; of that physical vigor which the Old World displays upon all the points favored by the copiousness of the waters, and you will understand that man, a child still, brought into the presence of such a power, must have felt himself, not merely a dependent, but a slave. The river he looks to for the fertility of the soil that feeds him the animal, the plant, that minister to his wants the sun, above all, that bright orb which reigns over nature, and in alternate march seems to dispense either life or death at his will everything becomes to him an object of worship. He acknowledges the powers of nature as his gods, to whose mercy he feels himself to be committed, and accepts for his supreme rule the inflexible law that governs the heavenly bodies. He is falling from the world of liberty into that of necessity. After this, what reason is there to be astonished that everything in those ancient civilizations bears the impress 3f the subjection of human liberty to the yoke of nature? All the religions, however varied they may otherwise appear, are the worship of the heavenly hosts. The immutable, blind laws of necessity, regulating the courses of the celestial bodies and the life of nature, these are the gods of the early Eist; inflexible, despotic, unloving, inexorab v. MAN ENSLAVED BY NATURE. 303 There all science appears as traditional. Man attains lot to the light by his own activity. The truth is not the recompense of his efforts, of his progress, of the free unfolding of his facul.ies. It is transmitted to him already prepared from elsewhere. In social life, casts, separated by insurmountable bar- riers consecrated by religion itself; or, in the patriarchal state, domestic relations, imposed by nature, restrain the free movement of the human faculties. In political life, absolute monarchy, the entire organi- zation of which is only the earthly image of the great Celestial Court of the Sun and his retinue, and of which the chief, representative of the Deity himself, is clothed with an unlimited power like him, and like him pro- nounces irrevocable decrees. Such are the features common to all the civilized com- munities of the early East ; one people alone forms an exception, poor and insignificant in appearance, but great in its destinies; it is the Jewish people, the people of God. In the midst of the defection of all the nations, they received the glorious mission of preserving in the world the knowledge of the only personal, living, and true God. Placed under His law, they would have been able to show, had they remained always faithful, what man might have become under the paternal gov- ernment of rfis Creator; but their history is scarcely anything but that of disobedience and chastisement, and it enables us the better to see that at this first period of his development, man is under the law, and not under tl % economy of grace and liberty. D irir.g the long centuries of these fiist ages, man ha* 26* 306 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. therefore learned but one thing, that he depends on the will of a master, but that master is an inexorable despot, devoid }f love. He can only fear him; if he obeys him it is as a slave ; he loves him not, nor adores him, if r love presupposes liberty. Man cannot, gentlemen, remain thus. A cry of liberty makes itself heard ; it reechoes to the depths of that East which groans in its chains ; it issues from the land of the West, a land of emancipation and liberty; from that Europe which in a thousand various ways allures man to the free culture of his faculties. In a small corner of the earth neighboring still to the East, but admirably organized, in that small peninsula of Greece, where all the varied contrasts of the whole continent seem to be repeated in a narrow space, under a climate blessed of Heaven, a new people arise, upon a new land, a free people, a people of brethren. With them the period of youth commences ; human consciousness awakes with energy; man recovers himself; the slave bent beneath his yoke springs up and holds his head erect. Th3 Greek, with his festivals, his songs, his poetry, seems t : celebrate, in a perpetual hymn, the liberation of mar from the mighty fetters of nature. A new civilization is to be born ; all these riches of poetry, of intellect, of reason, which are the heritage of the human mind, display themselves without obstacle, and expand in the sun of liberty. Who can describe all there is of fresh and youthful energy in that people of artists and phil Dsophers, whose efforts open to us a world entirely new ? This is no longer the world of nature ; it is that of the human soul. Everything, in fact, with th* MAN LMANCIPATED IN GREECE SHH Greek bears that eminently human charaUer which betrays the preponderance of human personality and the energy of individual character. His religion is a deification of the faculties and affec tions of man. In place ;>f the passionless, immcvabk deities of Egypt and of gersia, his Olympus presents tht animated spectacle of an assembly of human persons, free and independent, presided over by the happy con- queror of the elder gods of nature. Destiny, banished almost beyond the confines of heaven, hardly reminds us of those blind and deaf gods, those gods of necessity, who reigned absolutely over all the East. When the forces of nature, when the trees of the forests, the moun- tains, the springs, and the rivers, .appear as objects of worship, it is under the form of gods, of goddesses, and of nymphs, endowed with all the affections, and subject to all the weaknesses of common mortals. Greek science is no longer merely traditional ; we see its birth and its growth ; it is the production of the efforts of the human soul; it is progressive; the Greek no longer goes to the outer world of nature in search of wisdom, but descends to the depths of human conscious- ness. With Socrates and his school, philosophy has passed from the realm of nature into the realm of n an ; she has become a moral philosophy. In the social life of the Greeks, no more castes, iif tt.ore of those hard sacerdotal despotisms of the East which, by regulating human existence in detail, hindei its improvement; but communities of free and equal men and the predominance of democracy, that is, of individ- ual and lo".al life ; these are its characteristics. 308 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Such is the impulse the awakening of human person ality impresses on this chosen people, that a few cen- turies suffice to achieve the work of the most brilliant display of the human mind, and of a culture leaving far behind all the nations of the East. Among them all the flowers of genius jloom together ; their poets, their sculptors, their historians, their philosophers, have been, down to our day, and will hereafter be, the guides and the models of the man of taste and intelligence, in all countries and in all ages. The Greek becomes the teacher of the whole world. , The civilization of the Greeks is a conquest of man too beautiful to remain confined within the narrow limits of this petty country and inconsiderable people ; all mankind must needs enjoy the benefit. The East, having given so much to Greece during her infancy, possessed the first rights in the achievements of her maturity. The conquests of Alexander begin the work of planting Grecian culture in the ancient soil of Asia, in the bosom of those worn-out nations which seem ready to perish in their weakness. A fresh sap flows through them, and Western Asia, drawn forcibly into the movement of the nations of the West, henceforth takes her part in their progress and their vicissitudes, Eastern Asia alone is untouched, and remains station- ary. India and China, fossil remains of that ancient Orient which perished under the blows of the Greeks, subsist, as if to represent, down to the present moment, the antique civilization of the first ages, and to show the imbecility of its principle. At a later period, Rome with 1' T rurh warriors, comes herself to seek for culturu GREEK CIVILIZATION. 309 ard the arts on tht. soil of Greece ; and Gieece, conquered by arms, still reigns v y her genius over her very con- querors. Nevertheless, gentlemen, :he Greek, who carried the individual culture Df man to so high a pitch, knew not how to establish the social relations on a solid basis, nor to organize a national body, nor to combine the peoples subjected tc his influence into a system of nations strongly united together. I wish for no other proofs than that terrible Peloponnesian war, that fratricidal struggle, from which dates the decline of Greece, and the lamentable history of the Empire of Alexander and his successors. The Greek principle is individuality, and not association, and this is still further determined by the race, by the tribe ; that is, by nature, and not oy voluntary agreement. This political and social work is a new work, and is entrusted to a new country and a new people. The centre of the civilized world again changes place ; it takes a step further towards the West ; its circumference enlarges ; it embraces at once the South, the East, and the West. Rome, more skilled in the arts of conquest, and of establishing solid and durable political ties be- tween the nations, combine in one and the same soda, net-work all the civilized nations of the Ancient Woild. The place she occupies in the very middle of the bas'm of the Mediterranean, seems to foretell that she is destined to become the met-opolis of all the cultivated peoples who dwell upon its chores. This vast empire recombines the various elements of all the foregoing epochs iir one and the same civilization, and the Roman 310 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. world, having profited by all these advantages, offtrs the spectacle of the most brilliant social epoch of which the history of antiquity has anything to say. And yet, in spite of all these advances, if we look somewhat nearer, what inability to accomplish the aim of humanity, what universal selfishness and corruption ! No common faith binds together the nations, aggre- gated, rather than united. Rome exacts only one worship, that of the Emperor, who personifies the state. On all sides, conquerors and conquered still are found, and in this land of liberty one half of the men are slaves to the other. The Roman world, like all the rest, is to perish by its own vices. Thus far, as you see, gentlemen, man has attempted to go his own way, growing up without God. He has not, however, been abandoned, as his progress shows but he has exhausted all the spells and conjurations this procedure enabled him to try. He is convinced of his weakness; doubt takes hold of h'm and devours him; despair stands at his gate. Aii the literature of the Roman Empire confirms this. He has passed from the idolatry of nature to that of man ; from the idolatry of man to that of society, represented by the head of the state. He must return to the true God, or there is no hope for him in the future. It was then that the meek form of the Saviour appeared upon the scene of the world. What comes he to teach upon the earth ? He recalls man to the only God. personal, free, full of love, merciful, the God of eal/ation. He proclaims the equal wcrth of every human soul, for he died for all. He gb^s unto men COMING OF THE SAVIOUR. 311 that new commandment, " Love on. another as I have loved you," for ye are all brethren, and children of the same Father. Thus, no more idolatry, no more servitude; for he liberated man from the yoke of evil *hat restrains the freedom of his moral being. No more thraldom; for that is incompatible with the rights of his brethren and with the love he owes them. No more national reli- gions, opening between the nations abysses that noth- ing can fill up. All the nations of the earth must unite together in spirit, by the bonds of the same faith, under the law of the same God. This is the lofty goal to which henceforth all human societies ought to aim. The world hears the unity and brotherhood of all human kind proclaimed, without distinction of nation or of race the true principle of humanity. This is the leaven that is to leaven the whole lump ; it is upon this new basis that humanity, recommencing its task, goes on to build a new edifice. But what people shall be charged with this immense work? Shall it be that old Roman society, wholly pagan still in its origin and in its forms, stained by slavery and violence, condemned long since to perish for its crimes ? That body whose sap is gone, whose princi- ple of life is exhausted, whose work is finished, can it be born again? No, gentlemen, it is glory enough foi [ l w Roman world to have received and borne in its bosom this precious seed of the future, and to have shielded its earlier growth. The Church had her birth there, but lie Christian world must needs bloom else- where. 512 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The North is summoned in turn : the fierce Germans, after five centuries of struggle, break down the old empire, but adopt Christianity. In the midst of this great and universal ruin, the Church alone remains upright, and becomes the corner stone of the new edi- fice. Civilization passes to the other side 'of the Alps, where it establishes its centre. A still virgin country a people full of youth and life, receive it ; it grows under the influence of the Christian principle of unity and brotherhood. A common faith unites all the members of that society of the middle ages, so strangely broken up; those nations, so different, so hostile to each other in appearance, nevertheless look upon one another as brothers, and form together the great family of Chris- tianity. The circle of civilization soon widens, and embraces all Europe in the same range of improve- ment ; no people, however, takes part unless it shares the common faith; but, from the day of its conversion, also dates its entrance upon the path of progress. Meantime, through many internal struggles, great states are gradually forming, the modern nations appear; full a thousand years have scarcely sufficed for these protracted throes. Different in characters, opposite in interests, long isolated from each other, these nations, having grown to maturity, enter into reciprocal rela- tions. These relations are hostile at first; but the blending of so many various interests hastens their progress ; bonds of intimacy are established ; a greater community of interests, of ideas, of civilization in a word, strengthens the craving for harmony, and the balance of power in Europe becomes the aim of all high policy. PROGRESS ND IMPROVEMENT. 313 This equilibrium of material forces is finally changed n the nineteenth century into a European concert Europe gives to the world, for the first time, the spec- tacle of a family of states, so closely hound together that they are only different members of the same body. IN r> longer united by material ties alone, they are already iwjund by spiritual ties. From the depths of Russia to (he ends of England, from Sicily to Cape North, we find the same religion at the basis of the social condition of all nations. The old ideas are a common property ; new ideas speed almost through this whole space with the rapidity of thought, and reach, at the same time, the understandings of all. The manners, customs, sen- timents, become every day more alike; in all things, community and intimacy are closer and closer. Nothing that touches the smallest, the most remote of the mem- bers of the great confederacy remains foreign or indiffer- ent to the whole. And yet the assimilation of the people of Europe stops far short of confounding their distinctive qualities. Not long since, the world saw them, with some surprise perhaps, protesting against the complete fusion seem- ingly about to annihilate their individual existence, and threatening to carry them back to the chaos of a homo- geneous unity. They have once again proclaimed the |K>wer ,of historical ties, uniting the offspring of the same ]>cople, like friends of childhood, by a long community of life, and the vitality of those elements of race which boar witness to the original diversity of the gifts the Creator has bestowed upon his children. Each of (he great physical districts composing that continent, in 27 314 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL 'JEOGRAPHY. reality sustains a people whose moral and intellectual character, aptitudes, talents, differ as much as their language from those of their brethr.&i. Each of t;..ese nations plays, in the great drama of history, a specia* part in accordance with its particular gifts, and ah together form, in truth and reality, one of those rich organic unities which we have recognized as being the natural result of all regular and healthy growth. This variety of elements and their reciprocal influ- ence, joined to the community of action, which is the distinctive feature of modern society, exalt the powers of man to a degree hitherto unknown. Christian Europe beholds, poetry, the arts, and the sublimest sciences, successively flourish, as in the bright days of pagan Greece ; but, enriched already with the spoils of the past, culture is far more comprehensive, more varied, more profound; for it is not only affluent with the wealth of days gone by, but Christianity has placed it on the solid foundation of truth. The spirit of investigation ranges in all directions ; it adds to this brilliant crown a new gem, the science of nature, growing with a speed of which the Ancient World had not even a fore- east. Unriddled by the spirit of man, nature has yielded up to him her secrets ; her untiring forces are enlisted in the service of intellect, which knows how to gt.ide their action for its own purposes. Who sh ill describe those thousand applications of the science of nature, those inventions of the arts, each more marvellous than the others, coming upon us with a daily surprise ; thoso ingenious and mighty machines obeying wrhout pause he orders of man, and under his watchful eye accom- SPP.fiAD OF CHRISTIAN CIVILIZATION. 315 pliehing, with the same ease, the most gigantic works and the most delicate operations ? The ocean has lost its terrors; with the help of steam the sailor braves opposing winds and waves; the compass and the stars conduct him with unerring precision to the end of his voyage. Space is annihilated by railroads ; the word of man, borne on the wings of electricity, outruns in its course the sun himself; distances vanish, obstacles are snoothed away. Man thus disposes at will with the forces of nature, and the earth at last serves her master Such is the spectacle presented by European civil- ization. Looking upon it only under this brilliant aspect, and in itself, the progress of man seems to be almost touching its final goal. Nevertheless, the plan traced by the Divine Founder of the Christian church is much more vast ; the goal which He sets up is much higher. These precious gifts of culture are not to remain the exclusive property of a small number of privileged men, nor of a single society, of one continen* alone ; the Christian principle is broader ; it is universal like the love of Christ. An important work remains, then, to be done ; the work of diffusion and of propaga- tion. This work is two-fold ; for it is a duty to extend to the greatest possible number of the members of the same community all the blessings of civilization, at tho same time that it is a duty to help all the nations of the ?arth to enjoy them. The first is social; the second pertains to humanity in general. To bring them both about, European society must overpass its present boun- daries. Just as Greece, the model on a small scale of what all 316 COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL GEOOKAPHY. Europe becomes on a large scale, imparted to the East and to Rome the civilization which was the fruit of her whole popular life, so Europe owes to the world both her sciences and her culture, and the gospel, her most priceless good. The realm of civilization, which has been gradually enlarging, must increase still further ; it must have no other limits than those of the great globe itself. A 1 was prepared in nature and history to invite the society of Europe to take this glorious initiative, and to facilitate the task. The position of the European continent, in the midst of the other continents, seems to destine it from the beginning to this important part; its situation on the shores of the ocean opens an easy access to the remotest countries. The ocean is, in fact, gentlemen, the grand highway of the world; from the earliest ages the civilized nations urged by a secret instinct of their coming destinies seem tending unconsciously to gather themselves neai its shores. Born on the banks of the great rivers of the East, they cluster afterwards round the Mediterranean, under the sway of Greece and Rome. The modern world exchanges this theatre, henceforth too narrow, for the basin of the oceans, and our ships sail over the vast expanse of waters with more ease and security than the triremes of Greece and Rome crossed their inland seas. 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