BANCROFT LIBRARY < THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Af MEMOEIAL OF PICKERING DODGE ALLEN BY HIS FATHER. F BOSTON: PRINTED BY HENRY W. DUTTON AND SON, 90 & 92 WASHINGTON STEEET. 1867. EH - 1 E / $o w'g/i ts grandeur to our dust, So near is God to man When Duty whispers low, THOU MUST, The youth replies, I CAN. RALPH WALDO EMERSON. YKAftGU T nO fi LMUii 3KT MEMORIAL. PICKERING DODGE ALLEN was born in Salem, Massa- chusetts, May twentieth, 1838. He attended some of our private schools during the earliest years of his life. Having suffered from scarlet fever, and a very severe relapse, which confined him for many months, on his partial recovery he renewed his studies under private instructors, as he lost time by this illness ; and not having a particular desire for a college education, he continued these private lessons for many years, even to the time when he commenced his travels in this country, preparatory to a foreign tour. As boy and young man, he exhibited decided military taste ; and he was much interested in our volunteer militia and held a commission in the Salem Light Infantry, which he resigned to go abroad. His favorite reading was that of the lives of^ military heroes, of battles and of war. His memory was retentive ; and I have been often surprised, in conversation with him, to hear how i* 6 PICKEEING DODGE ALLEN. familiar and thorough he was in these matters, unu- sually so for one not especially educated and intended for a military life. The thought that he ever would have occasion to fight for the maintenance of the honor and independence of the flag of his country had never, up to this time, entered his mind. Early in November, 1859, then being nearly twenty-one years and six months of "age, he sailed from New York, in the steamer Baltic, for San Fran- cisco, meaning to visit that region and go thence to the East Indies. What were his experiences, and what places he sojourned at, will appear by extracts from his letters : LETTEES FKOM SAN FBANCISCO. STEAMER BALTIC, AT SEA, Nov. 12, 1859. DEAR FATHER, We have had a very fine passage, so far, and expect to arrive at the Isthmus to-night. The sail down New York harbor was very pleasant. We passed the Northern- Light steamer the rival boat before getting beyond the islands. The second day out, we encountered a severe northeast gale, which lasted thirty-six hours. I was sea- sick during this time, but have not been since. T was not seasick. Only nine of one hundre/l and fifty cabin pas- sengers appeared at table the day of the storm. While it lasted, we had several accidents on board : One steerage LETTERS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. I passenger broke his leg, and another his arm ; one of the horses died ; and the planks around the wheelhouse were torn up by the sea. Among other things on board are forty-three hives of bees, and they are very plenty on the deck; they do not sting; they came very near going over- board in the storm, but most of them were saved by the sailors. I like the sea as well as I expected ; it is rather tiresome. We have ten hundred and twenty-seven passen- gers one hundred and fifty first-cabin, two hundred second, and the rest steerage ; many extremely pleasant people among them. A lady (with her father), going to Lima, is very accomplished; she speaks six languages. Mr. War- ren, of New York, is very entertaining; he has written two or three books on South America. Other Boston and New York gentlemen and ladies I have become acquainted with ; and Mr. Hovelley, who is going to Panama, is a son of the President of the Panama and Aspinwall Railroad. He introduced me to the Captain, Purser, and others. The Purser offered to look after my baggage, which is a great relief, as the heat in the baggage room is intense. Mr. Crosby of Boston, and of the^ firm of Crosby & Co. of Callao, introduced me yesterday to a niece of my French teacher, Mons. Jerome of Salem. She wondered that you had a son so old as myself. Yesterday, we passed by Cuba without stopping; the island appeared beautiful; we were very near the shore for three or four hours. Flying fish are plentiful, but none have come on board. The weather is now extremely hot. PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. STEAMSHIP SONORA, Nov. 19, 1859. I am now writing this to leave at Acapulco, as it will reach you a steamer sooner than a letter mailed at San Francisco. We arrived at Aspinwall last Saturday, at midnight, a week ago to-day. The trip over the Isthmus was delightful, the weather being remarkably fine and the scenery grand. I was much struck with the vegetation: the trees were very large and splendid ; orchids were growing on nearly all of the large ones, and some of the flowers were beautiful. Oranges, cocoanuts, bananas and pineapples were plenty ; the latter remarkably fine, the oranges were not. T left at Panama, and has gone to Lima. Last night we had a heavy gale of wind in the Gulf of Tehauntepec, which is noted for its gales; the Captain says he never knew it blow harder on this coast; many of the ladies were much frightened, the waves were tremen- dous, and I was a little seasick. The blacks at Aspinwall and Panama were plenty, and willing to carry baggage at exorbitant rates ; we paid th,em about half they asked. One of them was much delighted by a new ten cent piece I paid him ; another immediately came to know if I had been to the place where they made bits ; another was looking over a picture book that a child had, and seemed much pleased. Only one alligator made his appearance: he was about three feet long, and seemed nearly all mouth. We should have been at Acapulco to-night; we were detained a little by the gale; expect to be there early to-morrow, when we shall stop a few hours. The coast of Mexico looking finely, LETTERS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 9 high and bold is now in sight. We have just passed through an immense school of porpoises ; some of their jumps were wonderful. Flying fish are very plenty and are amusing, jumping in and out of the water. The steamer is very crowded; there are three in our state room; I have the middle berth. We have very pleasant times on the ship; the party well acquainted sit together at meals ; we break- fast at eight and a half, lunch at one, dine at four and a half. The last of this letter has been written on my knee, and I do not know that you will be able to read it; but the table was wanted and I had to leave the saloon ; even there it is hard writing, as the motion of the boat is great. SAN FRANCISCO, DEC. 4, 1859. We arrived in this city last Sunday; it was a splendid day. All our arrivals were on Sunday, at Aspinwall, Panama, Acapulco, and at this place. Acapulco is a small Mexican town, with a population of about two thousand ; we arrived there at two in the morning, when several gen- tlemen and myself went on shore and breakfasted on broiled chickens and fried bananas; the women who waited upon us at the table were all smoking. As soon as we landed a great number of children surrounded us, teasing us to buy * all sorts of nicknacks ; as we would not buy, they wanted to make presents, which we also firmly refused to accept; some who did take them were followed and had to reciprocate by giving them a half dollar, a sum much in excess in value of the article received. Fruit was plentiful and good; it was both nicer and cheaper than at Aspinwall or Panama. As 10 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. soon as it was daylight the steamer was surrounded by men, swimming; they were waiting for dimes to be thrown over; their diving was wonderful, they only lost one out of a large number tossed them. The passage up from Acapulco was very pleasant; we had only one rainy day. We had one accident: a little girl of six years of age fell from the upper deck down into the second cabin, a distance of thirty feet; she broke her thigh, but the surgeon says she will get well. I am at the Oriental Hotel, a very old looking wooden building, but a very good and well kept house. The gentle- men here have been very polite and attentive: Mr. Low introduced me to the Merchants' Exchange, and his brother George to the Mercantile Library; Dr. Bonie sent me an invitation to the Pacific Club Rooms, and invited me to his house; yesterday I called on George Ward, who introduced me to gentlemen at the Union Club, and sent me an invita- tion to it and also one to dine there to-morrow. This city is a very singular place ; the buildings being mostly wooden. The evening after we arrived quite a fire took place in the Chinese portion of the city, and the excitement among them was great; there are between five and six thousand of them in the town. There are some fine buildings, and many in course of construction. The view from Telegraph Hill which has an elevation of six hundred feet is splendid. I am to visit the forts at Fort Point with some of the officers stationed here; they are not yet completed, but when finished are expected to be good, and well adapted for the protection of the city. I shall remain here until M arrives, in the next steamer, when we shall go into the country for about ten days. The grapes here are from LETTERS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 11 Los Angelos; they are cheap, quite small and very good. I write in great haste. SAN FRANCISCO, DEC. 18, 1859. Your letter arrived safely, by the last steamer; she was two days behind the other boat. M came, and I find him a very pleasant companion. To-morrow we are going to Sacramento; then to Grass Valley and to other mining places near there. The country is now looking beautifully, about the same as in the middle of May at home ; the wild flowers are commencing to bloom. I have been riding on horseback nearly every day the last fortnight, and have seen the country around here thoroughly. Many of the shops and all the theatres are open here on Sunday. M and myself went to Albatross Island with Lieuten- ant McPherson, in his boat; he has charge of the fort building there. We have been to the Presidio, where two or three hundred troops are stationed, and to Fort Point, on which is a very fine fort. We went over it with Lieu- tenant Elliot, who is from Billerica, in Massachusetts. The city has been quite gay the last week with a Fair in Music Hall, which was crowded all the time. The great attraction the last few days has been the encampment of the Pitt-river Indians, who were taken prisoners a few weeks ago. They left here yesterday for Mendicino, the Indian Reservation. They were a very mild looking set, and numbered a few less, than five hundred ; when they came, many of them had no clothing excepting a blanket, most of the children not having even that; quantities of clothes were sent them, and 12 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. before they left they looked quite respectable. Many of the men had gold rings through their noses, which were highly ornamental. They were not like the Indians we see at home; they seemed docile and more easily managed, and were in charge of a small guard. I have been out to Captain Macondry's Ranch: it is twenty-one miles from town, and a very pretty place ; trees are plenty there, and as they are scarce in the city it was quite pleasant to see them again. I have dined with Mr. Ward often, at the club ; he is a very small man, and when we walk together people stare tremendously; he suffers from the gout, which he says he now fights off with strong coffee. The weather is remark- able, only one rainy day in the three weeks I have been here; white frosts nearly every morning, but no ice ; it is colder up in the country. There is now only one vessel fitting for China the Early Bird ; she is smaTl, and sails about the fifth of January; we shall not go in her if there is any prospect of any other conveyance in a reasonable time. I have at last found Ellen ; she was very glad to see me ; I went again to the place where she used to live, and met a little girl, she knew Mrs. O'Keefe's young ones, and from her I found her whereabouts ; she now lives in an entirely different part of the city; she is very well, and I have sent my clothes to her to-day. My love to Marion and Lizzie. SAN FKANCISCO, JAN. 4, 1860. On the day that I wrote you last we left here for Sacra- mento, arriving there the next morning. As yet it is a small place, well laid out. Early the next day we took the LETTERS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 13 boat for Marysville, seventy-five miles up the river. It was a thick day, and we saw but little to interest excepting General Sutler's plantation, which is a nice farm. We took the stage coach at six o'clock the next morning for Nevada, arriving there at four in the afternoon; the day was pleas- ant, and the drive was quite interesting; we passed through Smartsville, Timbuctoo and Grass Valley, all of them mining towns; as to the roads and the hills, they were dreadful, nothing in New Hampshire or Vermont can compare with them. We remained three days in Nevada, examining the different kinds of mining. The proprietor of the hotel took us to the mines and introduced us to the head workman, and he took great pains to show and explain all the extensive operations: these were interesting and well worth seeing; large hills have been cut away to find the gold, and some tunnels are three hundred feet below the surface of the ground; we procured some very pretty specimens of quartz,- although the gold does not show much. On our return we left at half past one in the morning, in the stage coach, called here a mud wagon ; it was dark and rained hard for some hours; it cleared at sunrise; before, it was dull and stupid and tedious, many times the wagon had to stop for part of the passengers to get upon the steps and side to prevent the thing from upsetting. We reached Sacramento at three in the afternoon and remained until two in the afternoon of the next day, arriving at San Francisco at ten that night, fairly fatigued and tired out. Your letter arrived last night the mail steamer being eight days behindhand. The weather continues very fine, with but few storms ; when it rains it pours, and floods the streets in a very short 2 - PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. time; we do not wear or need overcoats. I hope we shall be able to get away for China soon; although we are enjoy- ing ourselves here very much we ought not to stay much longer. The city is very gay : on Tuesday we had a large party in the house, given to the guests; the next night we were at a private party given by a lady; on Friday night, to a ball at Virginia Block, and last night at a small party at Dr. Bonie's ; and to-morrow, a lady in the house is to give a very large ball over four hundred invitations have been issued. I send this by the overland mail, and, since I have been writing, the ship Don Quixote has arrived, and if she goes to China it will be a fine vessel for us to take passage there, as she is a large clipper vessel. FRANCISCO, JAN. 16, 1860. We are to leave here on Saturday or Sunday for Japan. M and myself go over with Mr. Frank Knight, of Boston, who has chartered the barque What Cheer, of four or five hundred tons, with remarkably fine accommodations for passengers. Mr. Knight came from there only six weeks ago, and expects to establish a commercial house at Kanagawa. This is only a few miles from Jeddo, which place we hope to be able to visit; but this is extremely doubtful. A steamer runs from Kanagawa to Shanghai, and we expect to go to China on her. T has not yet arrived, and we shall probably not see him ; we have been here much longer than we intended. JAN. 23. We are still in this city, but certainly sail to-niorrow, at ten o'clock; we have three more passengers LETTERS FROM JAPAN. 15 on the What Cheer six in all. We expect to arrive in Japan about the first of March and remain about three weeks, and then go to Shanghai or Hong Kong if possible. We shall not tarry long in China if an opportunity offers for Manila, where I expect to stay about one month, and thence go to Calcutta or Batavia. You had better direct letters after the middle of March to Calcutta. I have had an attack of rheumatism, but am now well again ; it lasted five days. LETTERS FROM JAPAX. KAXAGAAVA, JAPAN, MARCH 16, AXD YOKUHAMA, JAPAX, APRIL 10, 18GO. DEAR FATHER AXD MOTHER, After a pleasant passage of forty days from San Francisco we arrived off the Bay of Jeddo at sunset, and had to wait for daylight before entering. With daylight came a head wind, which soon increased so as to be blowing a furious gale, and instead of landing that day, as we had anticipated, we were blown about in nearly every direction for five or six days, when we finally succeeded in getting to the anchorage, it snowing fast at the time. When six days from San Francisco we saw two ships and spoke one the Oracle, of Xew York, a fine clipper of large size; it was full moon, and early in the evening, and she made a beautiful appearance. When off the Sandwich Islands we met with a severe gale, that lasted two days, and prevented our stopping for water and provisions. We did not regret this, as our stop would necessarily have been very short. The scenery 16 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. of Jeddo is quite fine, the Bay full of junks, mostly small fishing vessels ; and when we were sailing up the crews saluted us with their Japanese cry of welcome. From the anchorage the town is a very ordinary looking place, the houses which one sees being occupied by fishermen and boatmen. The Custom House is a large wooden, good looking building, with a roof of red tiles and in a large enclosure with a wall six or eight feet high around It. This country has much to interest us. Kanagawa is an old town, the streets very narrow; all the Consuls live here, but most of the business is conducted at Yokuhama, two miles from Kanagawa. It is almost impossible to get into Jeddo, ae foreigners being allowed to go only ten miles inland. Our Yice Consul, Mr. Hall, has been there and remained some weeks. He says it is exactly like Yokuhama. only very much more extended. I wish very much to go there, and shall if possible ; it is fourteen miles from here. The walk between Kanagawa and Yokuhama is an extremely pretty one, the country beautiful and the soil rich; it must be a fine place for agricultural purposes; the camalia trees are now in full bloom. The people are very curious; they follow us about, examining our clothes ; they were much pleased with my rubber suit ; they are extremely polite and wonderfully good natured ; if we go into a store and remain an hour or two, giving them a great deal of trouble and without making any purchases, they seem as well pleased as with a good customer, and always invite you to come again. The coun- try is densely populated ; the people are very much amused at my height, and a great many come up and measure themselves by me and seem to consider it a very good joke; LETTERS FROM JAP AX. 17 the men and unmarried women have very handsome teeth, the married women blacken theirs, which makes them very homely. The boatmen are wonderfully tough ; most of them wear no clothes below the knee; they do not row, but scull their boats, the government boats having each a dozen or more scullers, each man standing up to his work; they move through the water rapidly. Very few of the people wear hats, and those that are worn are made of straw or paper, shaped like a wash basin; their umbrellas are made of oiled paper, and their stockings are made like our mittens: their shoes are kept in place by a string, passing between the toes. The streets are crowded with people, and the coolies do all the work; they draw the wagons an ordinary cart, and four of them will take a heavy load; they make a tremendous noise, singing to keep time in working. Storks and crows are esteemed as sacred, and they are very abun- dant and tame; the latter would frequently alight upon our vessel, when we were aboard of her in the harbor. The Custom-house officers and petty officials wear one sword; the relatives of princes wear two, one very long, the other much shorter. The common people seem favorably disposed towards foreigners, but the princes, who have large trains to support, are much opposed, doubtless in consequence of the foreign demand for goods, which has greatly increased the cost of many articles, and made it very difficult for them to maintain their establishments. Some of these have ten thousand soldiers, clothed mostly in silk, which is, in conse- quence of this foreign demand, aJread' increased in price one half. All the murders have been committed by their followers, and no doubt by their command, the murderer 2* 18 PICKERING DODGE ALLEX. escaping into the Provinces, and the Government, if they had the will, have not the power to punish them. The lives of foreigners are very insecure and we all go well armed. Two Dutch captains were killed the last of February, and cut to pieces in the main street of Yokuhama at five or six o'clock in the afternoon, and the men escaped, although there must have been hundreds near at the time. The next month the followers of the Prince of Matte assassinated the Prime Minister for the reason of his favoring the foreigners, and had not the Governor of a Province favorable to the Gov- ernment have come up at that time the assassins would have escaped. They were all taken; had it been otherwise, a civil war would probably have followed, as these Princes have an army nearly as large as that of the Emperor. The Governor of Kanagawa and Yokuhama passes through the streets daily, on his way to the Custom House; he is a good looking man, and has about forty attendants, several of them being two-sworded officers ; a little in advance is one man with a long pole with iron rings; this he shakes to announce the Governor, and as he passes all the people kneel; he usu- ally rides on a horse, but never moves faster than a walk, as this would not be dignified. This Custom House is a great annoyance to us foreigners, as we have to go there twice a day to get the small sum of ten dollars changeddhto Japanese itsalves; these are worth about thirty-five cents. The Government have been stamping Mexican dollars at three itsalves each, but the natives will not take them at any better rate than before, and sell their goods for much less when paid in their currency. One great difficulty in trading with them is that they have no fixed price, asking two or LETTEKS FROM JAPAN. 19 three times as much for an article as they finally will sell for. I shall send home some of the porcelain, bronze and lacquered goods; these things are kept for sale in separate shops; they are very handsome. The porcelain vases are very graceful and superior to the Chinese, but having too much glass in their composition gives them a bluish color ; the lacquered articles are in great variety and splendid, and the bronzes are fine. Yokuhama has been built the last year, and here the business of the merchants is mostly conducted. It is regu- larly laid out; the main street is wide, good looking and very clean. The houses are most of them two stories high, the lower story being used for stores; they are built of wood and part of them are painted, but they are all new and fresh ; the windows are made of strong paper, oiled ; they admit a good light and wear well. We saw many handsome birds at a menagerie here, and two storks nearly as tall as myself. Entire suits of water-proof clothing, of paper, are made here, and can be had, with a cap and cape, for about seventy-five cents, the collars being of silk; they are glazed with oil, and are very serviceable. "We found eight or ten English, Dutch and American vessels here, and one Russian corvette; also one hundred and fifty foreign residents, who have been here only a few weeks, the most of them, the port was only opened last July. The Consuls all live in Kanagawa; usually they occupy an old Budhist Temple; General Dorr, the American Consul, has one particularly well situated, on the top of a hill, with a grove of large trees near. It is built of stone, and is very large; the top of the principal room is inlaid with different 20 PICKERING DODGE ALLEX. woods, finely polished and carved. The mountain Fusiana is a glorious sight at sunrise; it is nearly thirteen thousand feet high, and is now covered with snow ; it seems very near, but it is more than thirty miles distant. The Japanese esteem this mountain as sacred, and have the belief that a bad man cannot ascend to its top, that although his feet may move, he can make no progress. The Custom-house officers, being two-sworded men petty nobility are very proud, but fond of dining with the foreign merchants and always come in when they feel inclined, and, as the foreigners sometimes invite the Japanese merchants, they occasionally meet, when the merchant has to leave, bowing all the time to the officer, who generally takes no notice of him. We expect to sail from here for China in the Boston ship Judge Shaw, to leave near the middle of April. I have met Mr. Stearns, who was in the same house with Charles Orne for several years. He says that he is in Canton, and I shall go there to see him. LETTERS FROM CHIKA. KONG, CHINA, MAY 9, 1860. We arrived yesterday, and on going on shore I find that the mail closes this morning and I have only time to say that we had a rather long passage of twenty-six days. The first week out from Japan we had nothing but calms and gales of wind ; one of these was a typhoon, in which the ship lost all the sails set except the fore top-sail, which fortu- LETTERS FROM CHINA. 21 nately only split; after this we had very fine weather and light winds. Hong Kong is crowded with strangers; the French and English armies are encamped here ; they number about forty thousand men. The harbor is very full of vessels nearly two hundred ships sixty of them men of war and transports; and the streets are entirely full of soldiers, sailors and Chinamen. The soldiers are reviewed three times a week, and the Sheik's cavalry attract much attention. "We shall go to Canton next week, and probably to Manila in a Spanish vessel of war that takes passengers in about a fortnight. MACAO, MAY 19, I860; Since writing you last I have been in Canton, and yester- day arrived here. When in Hong Kong M and myself had our quarters at the club. The great attraction there now is the army, which is encamped on the shore directly opposite the city; the reviews receive much attention, and the Indian Sheik's cavalry are well worth seeing ; I see by the papers that more than half of them went north recently. Here there is great difference of opinion as regards the fighting in prospect, many thinking that the Chinese will not fight, and the residue believing that it will be very severe. Hong Kong has quite an American or European look; the houses, many of them, are three stories in height, and built of stone; the Queen's road is a handsome wide street, about a mile long. The weather is cool, and we have had no inconvenience from heat. 22 PICKERING DODGE ALLEX. We went to Canton in an American steamer, and were only ten hours on the passage. At Canton I found Charles Orne, and .he invited me to remain at his house while there. He looks well and is in good health, and was very polite, taking us to see all the wonders of the city: the temples, with their gilded gods, life size, the pagoda is very old and tall, 'but far from handsome; at the Temple of Congesity were quite a number of Chinese at their worship of the gilded gods (these were, some of them, ten feet high) ; we went to the porcelain and ivory warehouses, and found the former not so handsome as the Japanese and much more expensive; the river near the city is covered with small boats called san pans, the covered part of which is not more than six feet square, yet the number of people living in them is estimated as near one million. The merchants are living in comfort; they breakfast at ten and dine at seven or eight. Friday morning we left Canton and arrived here this after- noon. This is the Newport of China, and a very pleasant place; we are staying with Mr. Devens of Charlestown. We have visited a Chinese theatre and enjoyed it much; the dresses were gorgeous, and fire crackers were extensively used. SUNDAY, MAY 20. This is my birthday and I begin to feel quite old. To-morrow we go to Hong Kong, and expect to sail for Manila on Thursday, in a Spanish Gov- ernment vessel which carries the mail. HONG KONG, 21sT. We have just arrived here, and find the Manila vessel sails in two or three hours, three days before her usual time. I have enjoyed China very LETTERS FROM MANILA. 23 much, and should have been better pleased could we have had the few days more time here. LETTERS FROM MANILA. MANILA, JUNE 2, 1860. On arriving here last week I was very glad to find five letters from you and three from other friends; two of them had been sent by way of China. M is with Russell & Sturgis; I am, of course, with Mr. T . We are enjoy- ing our visit here; we drive every afternoon and sometimes in the morning, and so many carriages and horses are kept (every gentlemen having them), and frequenting one drive every day, from six to seven in the afternoon, that guards are placed to prevent their passing each other, the fine for doing so being ten dollars. The passage over from China was very uncomfortable, the accommodations exceedingly poor, the state rooms hot and unventilated ; but on shore we do not find the heat uncomfortable, and, as this is called one of the warmest months in the year, hope it will not be so bad as we had feared. I should prefer this island for a resi- dence to China, as the society is good, and the drives are a great advantage and the climate fine. This city has a pop- ulation of about two hundred thousand, and is quite large, with many old churches and convents. The Government maintains quite a large force now ten thousand soldiers and the many regimental bands of music are very good, playing in different parts of the city. The Spanish boy Benigno, who went to Mr. Yery's school with me, in Salem, 24 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. vp is now in the country ; he is expected to be here next week, when I hope to meet him. I want you to send me, to Constantinople, a traveller's letter of credit, to be used there and in Europe; also my letters to the same place. We shall have to return to Hong Kong from here, and shall go by the next mail two weeks hence and take the regular steamer to Singapore and go from there to Batavia, as every one we see recommends us to go to Java and pass a few weeks ; from there we shall go to Calcutta. I shall send home, -from Hong Kong, my Japanese purchases, with a few Chinese articles. I have bought some goods here and shall send them, with most of my white clothes from Calcutta. These accumulate, and I have now twenty suits of linen and cotton, and it is hard to get along with these. My love to M and L , and all the family. MANILA, JULY 1, 1860. Since writing you last I have been in this city, with the exception of a few days at Masekeno, a mall village ten miles from here with excellent bathing and walking facili- ties. The country is pretty, and the view from a high hill is a very fine one and very extensive. Yesterday we were very much surprised at T 's arrival from Hong Kong. He will go with us to Batavia. We expected to leave here to-morrow, but owing to some accident to the Manila boat we shall be detained another fortnight. I am sorry for this, as I do not like to spare LETTERS FROM SINGAPORE. 25 so much time for one place. It has rained most of the time for a week past, but it is fine to-day ; it is to be hoped that the rainy season is not setting in yet awhile. LETTERS FKOM SINGAPORE. SINGAPORE, AUG. 3, 1860. I am now on board the ship Singapore, and a few miles from the port; we expect to be at anchor soon, and, as the mail leaves the next day, write now. "VVe left Manila on the nineteenth of July; arrived at Hong Kong in five days, after a fine, pleasant passage. As fellow passenger, we had the French Bishop of Cochin China, a very agreeable man, and we talked in French, which was at least advantageous to me. We have a French officer in this ship, so that I have been able to keep up conversation as well as if Mons. Jerome had been with us. I hope to be so fortunate as to meet with more on the future passages at sea. Before leaving Manila, we were present at the inauguration of a statue of the Queen of Spain; there was a grand parade of troops, with military mass by the Bishop, and a great ball given by the Governor in the evening. Manila is a very pleasant place, and, although my stay there was longer than I anticipated, Mr. T , by his kindness and attention, made my visit very pleasant, and I enjoyed myself very much. I have sent home my Japanese goods by Twing's barque D. God- frey, from Hong Kong, and have sent other small packages by other conveyances, and by Captain "Waters, some views of places in the Island of Susan, and the stem of a very beautiful cactus, in tin with moist grass the case is air tight 26 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. and a like package has been sent to Germany with success. I have never seen so fine a flower of the cactus, except the Xight-blooming Cereus, which it equals in size. AUG. 4. "We find we may stay here ten days before we sail for Batavia; the hotel is good, kept by a Frenchman. Our passage here has been very fortunate, as this is the stormy season and we have had only a few hours blow since leaving China; the ship is large and comfortable, with accommodations for forty passengers, and we had only fifteen. AUG. 13. Since the last mail, we have been to the oppo- site side of the island, where the Government have two bungalows, in one of which we lived. It was beautifully situated on the top of a hill, the jungle very thick on one side and a fine sea view on the other. The trees were very tall; I should think some of them were fully two hundred feet high. We had hoped for good shooting, but were dis- appointed, and did not see anything but monkeys and small birds; one monkey was as large as a boy twelve years old. I write and repeat much written before about finances for fear my other letters may not reach you, and as f I find it more advantageous to negotiate a draft here and take sover- eigns to Java. We leave in the morning, at daylight, by mail packet, and expect to return here in a month to take steamer direct to Calcutta. The charge for passage to Batavia and back is one hundred and fifty dollars; as it only takes six days, it is at least enough to secure the company from loss. By the papers I see that they are making great lions of the Japanese in New York; the great ball must have astonished them. LETTER FROM PEXANG. 27 The merchants here live in the country, which is very pretty; the roads are good, and the ride of four miles quite pleasant. Chinese abound here, as they seem to everywhere in the East; in this island they outnumber the Malays. A few days ago, an enormous tiger was taken in a trap, three miles out of the city; he was a very different animal from what one sees at home. Fruit is plentiful; we drink the milk of the fresh cocoanut before breakfast; the pineapples, mangustines and several other kinds are very fine. LETTER FROM PESTANG. PENANG, OCT. 23, 1860. We had a long passage from Singapore to this place ; the wind was constantly against us, with remarkably fine weather. I shall go to Calcutta in the steamer which leaves in a few days. I write a short letter, as my last was very long, giving an account of our visit at Java, of what places visited, and interesting objects seen there. This is one of the prettiest places I have ever seen, and a pleasant residence for a short time, but must be dull after the novelty of the situation has passed. Nutmegs grow here in abundance, and the tree is a fine one. The letter referred to above was never received. We were sorry for the loss, as it contained the account of the voyage to Java, and of his visit at the island ; also, a description of a wild-boar hunt in the mountains, in which the animal was shot by 28 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. Pickering, but not at first killed. He had a guard of natives, armed with spears, to assist in killing, and for defence, should such an accident happen. When they saw the beast turn to the attack, they ran, leaving him to defend himself; he gave a second charge into his head, without disabling him, and then followed this up with blows from the but-end of the gun, which the boar seized in his mouth, grasp- ing with it Pickering's fingers. He was not much hurt, but it was considered unsafe for him to go to the heat of the seashore, and he had to remain in the mountains until the hand was healed. This he regretted, as his friends had to leave and go by the steamer to Calcutta. LETTER FROM CALCUTTA. CALCUTTA, Nov. 8, 1860. I arrived here a week ago from Penang, and, before land- ing, received a note from Mr. W , inviting me to his house. I am now with him, and having a fine time; we have been living in the country, but yesterday moved in. I was much disappointed in the date of my letters, expecting more recent ones. I have written to London -to have my letter of credit, and all my letters, sent to the care of the United States Consul at Malta. I shall not go to Constan- tinople, but direct to Paris, and to Italy at Carnival. I see C F often, and receive much late Salem news from LETTERS FROM PARIS. 29 his letters. Calcutta is very pleasant now, and no climate could be better than this at the present season, and it is now very healthy; the cholera has raged, and the season just passed has been one of the very worst. We ride every morning at six. I expect to start for up country in two days with three of the passengers by steamer from Penang, Mr. and Mrs. Melbourne, residents of Batavia and former acquaintances at that place, and Mr. CMferles Dickens, Jr., a son of the celebrated Mr. Dickens. My friends resident here advise this journey, as the Indian cities are well worth seeing. We go to Rannegunge by rail it is one hundred and twenty miles from here; we shall then take horse dornk and go to Benares, Delhi, Cawnpore, Lucknow and Agra; from thence to Bombay, where we expect to arrive the ninth of December. We have written to engage our pas- sages by the mail leaving there the twelfth; this should bring us to Marseilles about the seventh of January. LETTERS FROM PARIS. PARIS, 15TH JANUARY, 1861. I received letters from you at Malta, sent from Con- stantinople, and the -letter of credit. It is very expensive travelling by the overland mail, and in fact, in all the steam or packet vessels in the East Indies. Your last letter received was of October 2. The day after my last letter, our party started from Cal- cutta on our up-country journey. At Rannegunge we took horse dornk, as it is called, for the North. We had very good ghurries ; they are so arranged that one sits up or lies 30 PICKEKING DODGE ALLEN. down by changing the seats ; we always slept in them except at large stations where there were hotels; it is a very comfortable way of travelling, and we all enjoyed the journey very much. Our first stopping place was Benares, then Allahabad, Cawnpore, Lucknow, Delhi, -and Agra. Lucknow is the finest city and next comes Delhi. It is really wonderful how the English took the last place with so small a force; ffee fortifications are very strong. The palace of the King of Oude, at Lucknow, is a wonderful place, and the gardens must have been perfectly splendid ; it has a pond, with a very handsome bridge crossing it built of white marble, and there are several pavilions, of the same material, of very fine workmanship. The Taj, at Agra, is the finest building in India; it is of the finest white marble and very splendid; and there are two tombs of the same. . When at Agra, we found that it would take longer to reach Bombay than we had anticipated, and feared that it would be very tiresome; so we turned and travelled as fast as possible for Calcutta, arriving there in time for the steamer, which sailed early the next morning. We had only thirty-five passengers to Galle, Ceylon; here we found as many more, from Australia and China. The steamer was the Malta, a fine vessel of *nearly two thousand tons, very fast and comfortable. We stayed at Galle two days, which was long enough to see what was worth our notice ; two and a half days at Aden, where I met our townsman, Mr. J W , who invited me to his home, where I remained while there; and in Egypt we stopped two and a half days; so that I saw much without waiting a mail. Mr. Dickens, with whom I had roomed on the LETTERS FROM PARIS. 31 other side, left here he waiting a mail. We now took a small ship, the Valette, of only seven hundred tons, and, after the first day, had rough weather and an uncomfortable passage all the way to Malta. PARIS, 29TH JANUARY. The weather has been exceedingly disagreeable most of the time since my arrival. I take a lesson in French every morning and gain rapidly; I have seen many of the won- ders of Paris, but have much yet to see. My friends, Mr. and Mrs. Melbourne, with whom I have been so long, left Paris last week for England. The news from the United States looks very blue, and worse and worse every mail. What do your Memphis and Pontotoc letters say? PARIS, SD FEBRUARY, 1861. Last night, I received a letter from you. It had been to London, sent thence to Malta, returned to London, and sent to me here. I think you had best direct my letters to Paris for the next three months, and they can be more easily for- warded to me. So you never received my letter from Singapore, after my return from Java. It was a very long one, covering six pages of large letter paper. The illness, that you heard o, at Singapore, was probably in Java ; I hurt my hand at a hunt in Bandary, otherwise I have not been unwell since leaving California. Letters from the States say that it Is the opinion of the merchants of New York that our domestic troubles will be amicably settled. The lost letter 32 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. contained a list of all my drafts while in India; so will send you the list again. I wish mother would send me a list of things to purchase here, suitable for home presents. PARIS, 20TH FEBRUARY. Mr. A. P and myself leave to-morrow morning for the south of France and Italy. We go first to Marseilles, and probably through Nice to Genoa, Turin, and from Genoa to Naples by water, as it is not now safe by land. I have read Minturn's New York to Delhi, and prefer it to any book I have read on India. I am surprised the cactus did not live, and hope the D. Godfrey is not lost, as my things could not be replaced. I have seen most of Paris; the suburbs I have not, reserving them for summer. I still hope our national difficulties will be arranged without disunion. I do not expect to return home before the last of September. LETTER FROM NICE. NICE, 2D MARCH, 1861. "We left Paris the twenty-fifth February for Lyons and Marseilles, thence to Toulon, visited the navy yard and saw the celebrated iron-plated ship La Gloire, of which so much has been said; she does not look like a good sea-boat, so much iron making her too heavy. From Toulon we went to Hyeres, ten miles; there we remained two days, and were much pleased with what we saw; thence we came here. The weather now is as fine as it can be ; the grass is as green LETTER FROM NAPLES. 33 as in June with us at home; the trees are in bloom, so are the wild flowers and in the gardens I have seen some roses, and the orange trees are full of fruit and look beautifully. There are many English people spending the winter here, but very few Americans. People here who were in Naples a few weeks ago say that it is perfectly safe there, and that travellers can get along well, the newspapers representing things much worse than the reality; we expect to be there in ten days and after a short stop go to Rome. We went by railroad from Mar- seilles to Toulon, and the train had a narrow escape from accident; several rocks, weighing tons each, fell on the track only a few minutes before our arrival at the place ; we were detained four or five hours before they could be removed, no one was hurt. LETTER FROM NAPLES. NAPLES, 20TH MARCH, 1861. . From. Nice we went to Genoa by diligence, over one of the prettiest roads running along by the shore of the Medi- terranean. We were two days going, and the weather was delightful. After a short stay at Genoa we took an English steamer for this city, stopping at Leghorn, which place I did not recognize, notwithstanding the brig Governor Endi- cott, with a painting of the port, always hung over my washstand in my chamber at home. We were fortunate in having two good days for our sea-passage ; it has been very rough generally this spring, and the boats that left here recently had to put back. 84 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. We are in the fourth story of the Hotel Grand Bretagne, with a fine view of the bay. The weather is windy and only tolerably good. "We are very busy, as there is so much to be seen of interest here; two or three days we have devoted to the Museum, where are deposited the articles taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum, one day we went to Pompeii, and last Saturday we ascended Vesuvius. The day was very fine and clear, and the view beautiful ; the ascent was much easier than we expected from the description of it in Hillard's and Murray's Italy. Sunday evening we went to Sorento, and from there to Salerno, and Psestum, where the Greek ruins are more than twenty-four hundred years old ; they are in good preservation, and are considered among the finest ruins in Italy. We shall leave in two days for Rome, by land, as it is now perfectly safe, stopping one day at Gaeta, being at Rome during the ceremonies of holy week. There I hope to find an accumulation of letters, as it is sometime since I have received any. LETTERS FROM ROME. ROME, APRIL 2, 1861. I received yesterday your letters of nineteenth and twenty- sixth February and March fifth; they should have been here before, and in future you had best send all letters to London to be forwarded to me as heretofore; this is the only safe course. We came here by vettura from Naples, stopping at Gaeta, and arrived a week ago ; we had trouble in finding rooms, the city is so crowded; we were fortunate in the LETTERS FROM ROME. 35 weather from Kaples. I am glad to learn that the Japan- ese things have arrived safely, and that you think them handsome. We have been present at all the ceremonies of holy week, and have been fortunate in obtaining good positions. Last evening the illumination, postponed from Sunday on account of the weather, took place; it was one of the most beau- tiful sights I have ever witnessed ; the night was calm, and very fine for the purpose. To-night we expect the display of fireworks. I find St. Peter's surpasses all my expectations; it is most wonderful. We have not done much at sight-seeing in gen- eral, as the services of holy week have consumed all our time ; still we have visited some of the galleries of paintings and part of the Vatican, the Coliseum, and Forum. We shall no doubt remain here two or three weeks longer; then we shall go to Florence. I hope our political troubles may be settled, but to me they look blue enough; I like Mr. Lincoln's address, and think it good and sensible, and hope he may be able to do some good. Write me about the Salem Infantry, and tell me who are the officers besides Captain Devereux. ROME, OTH AND 15Tti APRIL. These letters are devoted to the churches and galleries, and to the uncertain and complicated condition of our political affairs. 36 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. LETTER FROM BOLOGKA. BOLOGNA, APRIL 28, 1861. We arrived yesterday, from Florence, by the diligence. I leave to-morrow, for Milan; shall stay only a day, as there is but little to see besides the Cathedral; and thence to Venice, for a few days. I have your letters of twenty- seventh March and the second of April, and have seen the late Boston papers. I hope we shall not have war; but if Davis has as many men under arms as the papers state, it will be very difficult to keep them quiet. Their credit is poor enough here, and it will not be an easy matter to raise money for them. The day before leaving Florence, we joined Mr. Appleton and a party from Boston, who had special permission to visit the palace of Prince Demidoif. This is the only one that I have seen in Europe that equals my idea of what a palace should be. It is probably the finest in Europe; there are twenty-one rooms on the first floor, all of them very splendid. He is a Russian ; is the owner of a mine of malachite, and one of the wealthiest men in the world. There are vases, fire places and tables made of it, and so abundant is its use that you would suppose it to be of no more value than marble. We saw also any quantity of gold and silver vases, dinner services, besides lots of precious stones, of all sorts. LETTERS FROM MILAN AND VIENNA. 37 LETTER FROM MILAN. MILAN, APRIL 30. I had a long day, yesterday, in the cars from seven In the morning until eleven at night. The London papers of the twenty-seventh have just been received, with the news of the taking of Sumter. I cannot understand it; forty hours cannonading, and no one killed on either side; the firing must have been very bad. I suppose the border States will now secede, and, if they do not, they will furnish the South with troops and do us as much injury as if openly against us. If a regular war is to take place, I think it best for me to return home, as I do not wish to be away. Will you write me, as soon as you receive this, and tell me what you think I had best do ? If you write immediately, the letter will be in London in five weeks. I am going to Venice to-morrow. LETTER FROM VIENNA. VIENNA, MAY 10, 1861. I have your letter of the twenty-third of April. We cannot get any late American papers here, but the Londoa Times is full of extracts from them; the excitement must be tremendous. I hope the Southerners will not be able to take Washington ; should they do so, the effect abroad would be very bad for our cause. I am sorry that the President had not called Congress together sooner, and caused an increase of the regular army ; I would a thousand 4 38 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. times prefer fifty thousand regulars to double that number of militia; the men have not* the least idea of what they will suffer. Our Commissariat department is poor enough. "We must hold Baltimore, if we are to keep troops at Washington well supplied. I did not realize how troops lived in time of war, until seeing them before Gaeta, and this was one of the best equipped armies that ever took the field, and we were there too late to see the worst of it. About sixteen men lived in a very small hut, made of mud, in most cases without any windows; they were at times wet, hot, cold, and always nasty. It is dreadful to think how this will kill off our men, if they go through a winter's campaign; and a summer one in Virginia would not be much better. The Southerners, in all these things, would be no better off, but they would have the advantage of being on familiar ground and where the population are all favorable to them. They have good officers, having had military schools, where many young men have received tolerably good education, while we at the north have looked at military men as useless and lazy fellows; and they have been less respected in New England, of late, than in any other part of the civilized world. Still, war cannot be carried on with success without money, and they certainly will find it difficult to maintain an army for any great length of time ; and here we have the advantage. I shall probably sail for home in a few weeks, as I see no prospect for peace at present. I feel sad enough, as we have none of the excitement of arming to relieve the de- pressing influences of the state of affairs. I shall not stay abroad; all the pleasure of travelling has gone. How many LETTERS FROM PARIS. 39 men did the Infantry take to Washington? I see that a Massachusetts regiment is at Fortress Monroe. We are very anxious for later news, and expect it by to-day's mail. We were thirty-two hours from Venice to Yienna, and most of the way the snow was several inches deep, the route being on high land. LETTERS FROM PARIS. PARIS, MAY 21, 1861. We arrived here from Berlin last Saturday, and have engaged passages in the Arabia for home. She is the next Boston boat, and sails in a week, so you may expect to see me in a few days after this reaches you. We could not get any later home papers in Germany, and the letters were full of war news. Yours of the thirtieth arrived this morning, after several days' delay in London. We have American news to the eighth, and, as Mr. Lincoln has telegraphed for more troops, I expect to hear of a fight by the next mail. I am very sorry so many of our Southern relatives are seces- sionists : I do not see how it is possible for any right-minded person to acknowledge the right of a State to secede. I do not see what we can do should we conquer them. With our idea of a government of the people, how are we to hold them against their will? The whole matter is involved in diffi- culties. One good must come from it, however, as it settles for the States remaining in the Union this question, that they have no right to secede. It is useless now to be look- ing at the future; our present duty is to give them a good thrashing, and to teach them to hold different opinions of 40 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. the relative pluck of Northern and Southern men. I am glad the government are so vigorously at work. Butler seems to have done wonders, and this enlisting of men for three and five years is just the right course. MORNING OF 22D MAY. Have just received your letter of the sixth. You say that the Infantry number one hundred and twenty. What a large company! I should think most of the army officers have resigned, by the number of names one sees in the papers. , I do not feel so confident as you do as to the position of the States of Kentucky, Missouri and Maryland, and hope they will not be allowed to remain neutral. Should they be thus situated they would supply the South with food and men, and do ns more harm than if openly opposed. I do not believe in any half-way at this time. You must be for or against the Government. He arrived in Salem on the twelfth day of June, 1861. He was very much interested in the mili- tary, and was constantly with officers, and young men who were proposing to become such and raise troops for the army. His parents endeavored to dissuade him from doing so, and used every argument in their power to prevent it. He did not meet with any encouragement at the State House, and, as he would not enlist with the refusal PATRIOTISM STIRRED. 41 of the consent of his parents, the summer passed without his doing so. He was absent in Vermont part of this time, and his letters from there (none of which, unfortunately, were preserved) expressed the strongest desire to join the army, coupled with undoubted feeling that it was his duty to do so. He conversed more upon this subject with his mother than to his father, perhaps for the reason that she would listen more patiently to his arguments. At last, he was evidently so unhappy at his position and felt mortified at being unoccupied at home, using this argument to obtain my consent, that he was single, had no business, was in health, and had some little acquaintance with the military life, If such as he did not volunteer, how was the army to be raised, and kept supplied with men? Finally, becoming convinced that it was wrong to further oppose him in his performing what he thought it was his duty to do, I ceased all opposition, and. although I never gave my consent by word, he knew that he had my approval. October twenty-seventh, 1861, he signed the enlist- ment papers, and was authorized to recruit thirty men, for cavalry, to join General Butler's New England Division. This cavalry was to be under the command of S. Tyler Read, and was to be called 4* 42 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN, Mounted Rifle Rangers. He opened a recruiting office in Salem, and at other places, and obtained the men, who went into camp at Lowell as fast as engaged, he, in the meantime, being engaged in duty in camp, or on recruiting service, in Salem or Boston, or in travelling to look up men suitable for this service, which required picked men, of full stature, and competent to make good horsemen as well as good soldiers. In November, he was commissioned Second Lieu- tenant in the Twentieth Regiment Massachusetts In- fantry, by Governor Andrew. This was done without his knowledge or his application, and respectfully declined by letter, with the reason given for declin- ing, that he had previously enlisted in the New England Division. During the latter part of Decem- ber, Lieutenant Pickman, with a detail of ten men of the cavalry, left Boston in a sailing ship, with more than one hundred Government horses, as a supply for the troops in part. "With these Lieutenant Pick- man and Pickering sent their own horses, private property. The ship encountered a storm in the bay, the first night out, in which all of the horses but ten were killed, and these were so injured as to be of little value. MOUNTED RIFLE RANGERS. 48 CAPTAIN BEAD'S MOUNTED RIFLE BANGERS. The following is the Roster of commissioned officers of Captain Read's squadron of Mounted Rifled Rangers, attached to Major-General Butler's Grand Division: Captain commanding the squadron S. TYLER READ, Attleborough, Mass. Second Captain JAMES M. MAGEE, Carlisle Barracks, Penn. Senior First Lieutenant J. E. COWEN, Fairhaven, Mass. Junior First Lieutenant ALBERT G. BOWLES, Roxbury, Mass. Senior Second Lieutenant BENJAMIN PICKMAN, Salem, Mass. Junior Second Lieutenant PICKERING D. ALLEN, Salem, Mass. Captain Read has been engaged actively in the present war from its very incipiency. He was with the Sixth Regiment in its stormy passage through Baltimore, was temporarily on Ellsworth's Staff as Assistant Surgeon, and was with the lamented and gallant young Colonel when he fell in the Marshall House at Alexandria, subsequently in the battle of Big Bethel, and afterward acted as Provost Marshal on the outposts at Fortress Monroe until he came North to raise in his native State the splendid body of men which he now commands. Captain Magee is an officer from the regular service, and 44 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. was second in command at the burning of the arsenal at Harper's Ferry. Lieutenant Cowen was attached to the corps of Engineers in the New York Eighth Regiment, and was in the heat of the battle at Bull Run, in which he was slightly wounded. The remaining lieutenants of the corps are men of experience which well adapts them to their positions. The squadron has been raised by selection to a high standard of excellence, enough applications having been rejected since the opening of its enlistment rolls to fill a regiment. They are tall, athletic, vigorous men, of reliable character, and present the finest appearance of any corps which has yet left for the war. Lieutenant Pickman, in charge of a detachment of the men, with the horses and equipments of the corps, left for Ship Island several days since. The remainder of the squadron will embark on the Constitution for the same destination. They carry heavy sabres and short rifles, and are to be provided with revolvers beside. Although enlisting in October, he was not sworn and mustered into the service until the twenty-seventh day of December, 1861. The cause of this delay was that when the United States mustering officer was at camp in Lowell, for that purpose, he was absent on recruiting duty, at offices in Boston or Salem, or in travelling through the State in pursuit of men capa- ble of performing cavalry duty. His position was that of Second Lieutenant of Captain Magee's Com- pany, enough men having been enlisted for two GENERAL BUTLER'S EXPEDITION. 45 companies, and a third company of cavalry had also been enlieted at Lowell. Neither Pickering, or myself for him, desired a too responsible position. Both of us had seen large armies engaged in war, or about to do so, had been over battle fields, and had seen enough to teach us how little we actually did know, and were well aware of the want of military education in so large a pro- portion of the officers of our volunteers. The com- pany left Camp Chase in Lowell, January 2, 1862, for Boston, were inspected on the Common by Major General Butler, embarked the same afternoon on board the steamship Constitution, with Colonel Shepley's Maine Regiment and Colonel French's Massachusetts. The ship went into the stream, and anchored at evening. The night was exceedingly cold and windy ; in consequence the men suffered severely. After a few days, steam -pipes were arranged around the hold of the ship and they were made more comfortable. The cold weather continued many days, and the ship remained in the harbor. This detention was very tedious and dispir- iting to both officers and men ; the more so, as, for military reasons, the cause could not be made known. It was supposed, then, to be a consequence of the controversy between Governor Andrew and Major- 46 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. General Butler ; but from a recent statement of the latter, it seems that it was caused by the threatening aspect of our relations with European nations, more particularly with England. On the tenth of Jan- uary, the troops were ordered to land, and Colonel French's regiment commenced to disembark. Three companies had pitched their tents in Fort Indepen- dence, when orders were received to sail for Fortress Monroe. This change in the aspect of things put all in high spirits. EXTKACTS FROM LETTERS AND DIARY. Pickering then goes on to say in his journal : ft On the thirteenth, the cold still continuing extreme, we sail early in the morning, with a strong northwest wind the sea not rough for this coast in winter. We arrive at Fortress Monroe January sixteenth. In the forenoon I went to the Rip Raps, and then on shore to see my friend Merriam; ascertained that he had gone home on furlough. Passed the night with Lieutenant Cartwright, of the old New England Guards, and went on board ship morning of seventeenth. On Monday, the twentieth, all the men were disembarked and landed on the beach, near the Fortress, for change of air and cleaning of the ship ; being in charge of the guard, have had some hard work; the weather was as fine as possi- ble. At dark it rained, with a thunder storm, which lasted LETTERS AND DIARY. 47 all night; the men suffered from wet, as very few of them were well sheltered and many of them not at all. 22o JANUARY. The storm continues, but the tents are all ready, with the sand very wet. 23D . The weather is worse ; windy, with rain and hail. 24TH. More stormy than ever, windy and rainy. In the afternoon we are flooded by the tide ; strike camp and go to the woods, where we pass the night in our tents, we and all our things are well soaked. 25TH, MORNING. It is still raining, with much less wind and a change in its direction; we begin to think it will never clear. It clears at noon, and looks as if it would con- tinue so. Not feeling well, I go on board the ship to consult the Doctor. A letter dated on board ship Constitution of twenty-seventh January, says, I have the measles; this, you know, is the second time; we have about one hundred and fifty cases on board, but very little other sickness. Quite a number have the measles the second time; it is slight and does not last more than four or five days, in these instances, when in the full, or fresh subjects, it runs fourteen. This is my third day, and I am almost well. We have only a few cases in our company and I do not expect many more, as all the men are encamped on the beach, below Fortress Monroe, and those having it are on board ship, where they are very comfortable. I expect to be all right in a day or two, and shall be careful not to take cold. 48 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. Last week was a tough one ; the weather was very bad and we were encamped on the beach. We landed Monday morning of a splendid day; but before night a severe storm commenced and many of the men were all night without any shelter, although most of the tents were pitched. I was Lieutenant of the guard, and our company were, most of them, detailed for that duty. I quartered, when not on duty, on board a small steamboat. The storm lasted until Satur- day noon. Friday evening the tide had become so high, from the wind blowing strong in the same direction such a length of time, that our camp was overflowed, and we had to strike our tents and go to the woods and pitch them there until morning, when the wind changed ; and since that after- noon the weather has been fine. Merriam is stationed about a mile from the Fortress, at Camp Hamilton, where there are two or three regiments. A New York regiment in the Fortress and. other regiments near here drill remarkably well, and are under good disci- pline. The news from Kentucky is cheering, and I hope we shall soon hear of another battle, on a larger scale, with similar result. The fortifications on the Rip Raps are to bfc very powerful, but much smaller than Fortress Monroe. The United States sloop Pensacola sails to-day for Ship Island, and we hope to do so sometime this week. Pickman must be melancholy there, but he will find plenty of work if he and the ten men still have charge .of a hundred and fifty horses. I have not yet received any letter from you, but hope to soon. Suppose you are waiting for me to give directions how to send. LETTERS AND DIARY. 49 CAMP HAMILTON, FEBRUARY 1. Your letter, with a Salem Gazette, has just arrived. I am well again, and came on shore yesterday. As it was rainy, came out here and passed the night with Merriam ; as the rain continues, shall stay until to-morrow morning. I have just returned from our camp, where I went on Merriam's horse; it is about three miles from here, and the road leading there is muddy enough. Our men are very comfortable; every tent has a fire in it, and plenty of wood is furnished. The measles are subsiding, the number of cases diminishing rapidly; but a few cases in the Massa- chusetts regiments. Merriam has fine quarters, the lower part of wood and the upper of canvas, and as comfortable as possible. We are now waiting for a fair day to embark, as Colonel Shepley arrived from Washington, on the thirtieth of January, with sailing orders. We are going to Ship Island. The first Salem papers received gave me the news of C P 's release. We get all our news from the New York papers, with occasional rumors here, which most always prove false. Last Sunday we could see the secession flag, flying over their works the other side of Sewall's Point, plainly enough to distinguish the colors ; it has not been up since. This camp is quite large; there are three or four regiments, besides the Massachusetts Sixteenth, and one of cavalry, of twelve hundred men, from Pennsylvania. A very fine band, attached to the New York Twentieth, is next to this. I saw W this morning, he is very well ; if he is in want of anything, will see that he has a supply. Officers 5 50 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. and others are continually coming in the tent and going, so you must expect a remarkable letter. The Constitution has changed her position, nearer the wharf, and has taken in fresh provisions and a new stock of coal, and is ready for sea. We received several days since, from Head-Quarters of the Army at Washington, an order appointing us to act as officers of the First, Second and Third Companies of Cavalry of the New England Division, to be attached to Colonel French's Regiment while dismounted, and stating that the commissions would date from the time we were mustered into the United States service. SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2. This is a fine day, and the men are going on board ship. We shall probably sail to-morrow. SHIP ISLAND, 13TH FEBRUARY. We arrived yesterday, and landed immediately. Our camp is on the right; pitching our tents and other work gave us a fatiguing day. We left Fortress Monroe on Tues- day morning, fourth instant, and returned the next day, with the United States gunboat Miami in tow in distress, a new boat, built in Philadelphia. We did not sail again until next day, so that we felt quite discouraged at the repeated delays. We have had perfect weather since. The voyage was a splendid one; the health of the men improved, and we have now scarcely any sickness, with the exception of a few cases of pneumonia, some of these quite serious on the measles patients, from exposure after convalescence. The measles have almost disappeared. I am perfectly well, so is W . LETTERS AND DIARY. 51 Lieutenant Pickman and men arrived safely; they lost all the horses but five, out of one hundred and fifty odd. Our own fine horses died. Will you purchase and send me half a dozen pairs of blue goggles by the first opportunit3 r . To- day two or three secesh gunboats made their appearance, some of ours chased them. They fired at each other at the longest range, without doing any damage. So many horses have been lost, we may have to wait several days longer for others on the way before mounting the men. At this time there are not half the required number here. The island is not so gloomy a place as I expected, and r as there are now four infantry regiments and our cavalry and the battery of artillery, it seems quite cheerful. The regiments that came before us have improved much in drill and discipline, and we now hope to do so rapidly. I expect to enjoy the work. I am now to act as adjutant of the battalion, with one of the orderly sergeants as sergeant major. Probably we shall have our horses next week; we do not want them before. It will be uncertain when and how we shall have opportunity to write, but trust it will not be so with you. To-morrow General Phelps will inspect us, and we are to drill before him. FEBRUARY 18. The Constitution has been delayed by bad weather and fog. Our camp, on the right, is nearly a mile from the wharf, or fort, or city, as it is called. We are very well; so are most of the men. The weather has been very bad for three or four days. Three of our men, who had been detailed to take charge of baggage on the Constitution, left here in a surf-boat the night of the sixteenth instant, and have not been heard from since. One 52 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. of them was recently made quarter-master sergeant by Captain Read he had five letters of recommendation, was a Southerner; the second was an Englishman; the third was Hurter, born in Syria, son of an American Mis- sionary. They may have been blown to sea; probably they have deserted; and it is possible they are stowed away in some ship. MARCH 5. A steamer will leave to-night or to-morrow T and I write, although there is very little news here that you have not heard long before. I have seen New Orleans papers of the last, of February. We seem to have gained several important victories. Twelve thousand prisoners, taken in Tennessee, appears to be a small estimate, or three thousand at Roanoke Island. Have heard from the three men who left us, or rather the Constitution; they landed at Mississippi City, and are now in New Orleans. In their account of the troops on the island, they omit the Connecti- cut Ninth Infantry, and give our number as one hundred and eighteen, when, in reality, the three companies number over two hundred and sixty. We have had very cold weather recently. A party have been on Horn Island the last two days ; they brought back ten cattle, and a negro they found there. He had drifted there in a boat, and could not get back to the main land ; he was almost starved when he arrived here. The men are healthy and in good spirits. Recently, we had a review of the four regiments^ our cavalry, and the Salem Artillery; it passed off finely, although the day was hot; it was intended as a compliment to the new flag-officer, who is to command the gunboat and mortar flotilla proposed to be sent up the river. LETTERS AND DIARY. 53 The gunboat New London is very active and captures many small craft; one morning she brought in eleven oyster and fishing boats, of twenty or thirty tons; as they were mainly loaded with oysters, we were well supplied for a few days. The South Carolina brought in the Southern steamer Magnolia, loaded with cotton ; she is valued at two or three hundred thousand dollars, vessel and cargo. I am expecting to hear from you soon ; have not yet. W is well, and wrote home a few days ago. I expected the mail steamer would remain until to-morrow, but now hear she will sail this afternoon, so must close. We have now over two hundred horses, many of them just arrived ; they are to be issued to the companies to-morrow, when drilling them will commence ; I have a good grey, that I ride daily and expect to purchase. We have been mustered for pay; the men are paid from the date of their enlistment; I shall receive only about one month's pay, as I was mus- tered "in only on the twenty -seventh December and do not get pay for the time in camp and on recruiting service. Several ships are now due, and expected to arrive, with stores and troops. The ship Undaunted lost but four horses of her freight; they were loaded by private parties, who were to pay for all lost on the voyage. SHIP ISLAND, MARCH 11. I received a letter from you yesterday. I suppose you will hear great stories of our troops being defeated at Mis- sissippi City, through the Southern papers, before you get the truth of the affair. Last Saturday, Colonel Jones, with 5* 54 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. officers and one hundred men, consisting of fifty men from Company I, of the Twenty-Sixth Massachusetts, and the same number from Company B, went in the steamer Cal- houn to reconnoitre about the place (Mississippi City), with the view of sending some regiments over there ; they found the wharf or bridge badly broken, but crossed, and found the houses near the landing deserted ; after going a short distance beyond, they saw two or three horsemen in the woods, quite a distance from them; soon after, a number more appeared, when Colonel Jones halted and turned in the direction of the wharf; the rebels in the woods then opened fire with some small field pieces, using canister shot. One of our men was slightly wounded, the merest flesh wound; this was the only casualty on our side. We did not fire a shot until on board ship again, when the Calhoun fired three shells into the woods, with what result we do not know. There are now seven or eight thousand men on the island, half of them drilled and disciplined. It would be easy to hold Mississippi City, with few men, if it were desirable. We hear reports of a major coming out to take command of the cavalry, and of other cavalry companies coming to join us. Quite a number of the officers here will undoubt- edly be ordered home if Governor Andrew has the control of the commissions. Captain Dudley, of the regular army, is to command the Massachusetts regiment, and it is now to be ranked as the Thirtieth. General Butler is expected to arrive soon, and we to move shortly after. The Navy are preparing for the attack on New Orleans, and are confi- dent of success. LETTERS AND DIARY. 55 It is not dull here, ships are arriving every day ; six of the mortar fleet have arrived to-day; small prizes are often brought in; a large steamship, now in sight, may be the Mississippi. Some of the large ships have to lighten to get over the bar. The United States ships Colorado, Mississippi, Hartford, Kichmond, Pensacola and Brooklyn, with a fleet of gunboats, are near here, and come in and go out frequently ; they are very fine ships. I dined Sunday, on board the Richmond, on green turtle and roast chicken, very different food from our shore fare, which is rather poor. We are having fine weather, and I quite enjoy this mili- tary life. SHIP ISLAND, MARCH 18. I have received the letters and papers you sent by Adams' Express, but nothing by the Constitution, which arrived last week and sailed again day before yesterday. She brought three regiments, one from Michigan, one from Iowa, and one from Wisconsin; they have been stationed at Baltimore and in Virginia, and are under good drill. Brigadier-General Williams came also; he was on General Scott's Stan , and ranks high as an officer of the regular army. We drill six hours daily two-thirds of the time mounted and make good progress. There are now on the island, eleven regiments infantry, several batteries artillery, and one battalion of three companies cavalry ; other regi- ments and batteries are expected daily. I never was in better health ; the measles left me rather weak for two or three weeks, but I have now completely regained my strength. I have an excellent servant, a contraband, and as 56 PICKERING DODGE ALLEN. good a man as I could wish; he washes well, and takes good care of my horse, which I care much more about. I do noj; know when this will go, and leave it at the express office for safe keeping. General Phelps is still in command; he has a New Orleans paper which boasts of advantages gained over our troops, which I do not credit. We have various stories about our movements, and cannot tell what to believe; General Butler is expected to arrive to-morrow. MARCH 24. A mail leaves immediately, by a gunboat just arrived from the passes, so write just to say that W and myself are well, as you seem to imagine us in a miserable condition. We are as comfortable as possible; no great variety of food for the table ; we have rice, nearly all the time, with salt beef and pork, and plenty of bread and butter. General Butler has arrived, and the troops have been put into brigades. The battalion of cavalry has been divided, and our company has been placed with the Third Brigade, which consists of the Massachusetts Thirtieth, Maine Twelfth, Fourteenth and Fifteenth Kegiments Infantry, and the Maine First Battery. Captain Magee commands our com- pany; we are gaining rapidly in drill; I enjoy the mounted exercise very much, and the men have improved in riding. Your letters of fifteenth and eighteenth of last month came a few days since. SHIP ISLAND, APRIL 2. Lieutenant Bowles has been appointed Aid-de-Camp to General Shepley. Great preparations are being made for the expedition to New Orleans, and we expect to move in a LETTERS AND DIART. 57 few days, but I think it will not be for a fortnight. The regular mail will leave in a day or two, and I will try to write; we are quite busy drilling, and have but little time for letters. The Connecticut Ninth left here yesterday, in a steamer, with two gunboats as convoy; we think they have gone to Mississippi City and Pass Christian. The secesh fired on a flag of truce, at Biloxi, the day before yesterday; no one hurt. Have letters from you of twenty-eighth Feb- ruary, and from A and L and T. Weather clear and warm. 13TH APRIL. About half the troops have marching orders and will soon leave ; our company does not go, but Captain Read's and the other company do. The attack on the forts will be made this week. We have many mortar boats, several first-class gunboats, and four or five steam sloops of war. The New London took a schooner, yester- day, with a cargo of molasses; she had Mobile papers on board, of sixth April; these mention a battle as then going on, in Tennessee or Mississippi, in which their General John- son had been killed. It is uncertain when we leave. 13TH, P. M. I wrote you a few lines this morning, by the mail steamer; she came in last night, and we were not knowing of it, and only had time to get short letters ready and on board with the despatches sent by the General. The night before last we had a fearful thunder storm; I have never seen it lighten so steadily as it did most of the night; the guard tent of the Thirtieth Massachusetts was struck, and three men killed, and two so badly wounded as to be considered hopelessly so, and two wounded slightly. I like my horse much; he stands fire finely; does not mind it the .'S IMCKBKINO DODGK ALLKN. least. We aw now at target practice and shoot from our horses daily; they aw becoming quite well trained and gain faster than I thought possible. The (Connecticut Ninth went to Pass Christian and Mississippi City ; at the Pass they eaptuwd a camp, equipage, eU\, but the men belong- ing there, a Mississippi w^hueut of ei^ht hundrtni men, tUnl. The Connecticut regiment bunuHl the cnmp and captured a tVw men. We have New Orleaius papers of late date, and learn by them that the colonel of the regiment was placed under arrest for leaving without tlghting. The Kew London has captuwd a steamer t\x>m Mobile for Kew Orloaus, witl thirty-six passengers and cargo of iH>sin and t\rjH^tine. We o.x|HH>t the attack on the forts will commence to- morrow. We have a powerAil tlwt and well armed, and in addition, Oommodort) PorterV mortar lUvU The wln>l8 have a number of gunboats, and aw snj>jH>stHl to have about two hundred heavy guns mounted, besides those on Forts Jackson and Phillip; so they aw well pwpared. It must be a gwat batth\ if we succeed and they detVnd the forts as we expect they will Captain Head and his and the other cavalry go dismounted; m> wiuaiu hew, pi\>lmWy two or thitx^ wxnvks longer, Thoh. AVeather very One, Last week we had a wview of the division by General Butier, About tlfleen tJiousand men. It is a long time, now, since we have weeived letters from home; the UtH>rjj\> Washington, with a mail, is expected soon. I I i I I Hllif IC.I.ANII, Anm. \'.). II,,. .>;,,"!, IK.M ,-,n..l \ , I -. \n\\ t W- .,,,,,., < UK y I,:,-,, ;,. 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