STACK ANNOC 
 
 *PA 
 IP 
 
 v. I 
 
 INTRODUCTIO N. 
 
 ALTHOUGH this work is chiefly meant to illustrate and describe 
 the ancient castles and monasteries of Scotland, it is conceived that a 
 general view of its antiquities will not prove a disagreeable introduc- 
 tion. 
 
 North Britain contains every sort of ancient monument usually 
 found in the South, with the addition of some peculiar to itself. Ot 
 Roman works, there are a great number; some of them very pertect; 
 the most important of these have been preserved by the industry of 
 the late General Roy; Lieutenant General Melville has been likewise 
 indefatigable in these investigations. 
 
 Druidical monuments of every sort are likewise found all over 
 Scotland; as these agree in every point with those found in England, 
 it would be unnecessary to say more about them, except to observe, 
 that in Scotland, several religious houses have been erected on or near 
 the sites of Druidical circles; thereby, as it is supposed, to avail them 
 of that long established veneration those spots had already acquired; 
 an instance of this occurs near Holiwood, Dumfriesshire. 
 
 Conical towers open in the center, with two or three rows of gal- 
 leries for lodgings, constructed in the thickness of the walls; all built 
 without cement; some of them having also square repositories for 
 arms and weapons. These, vulgarly called Pictish houses, are not 
 uncommon on the Northern coast. The most remarkable is called 
 Dun Dornadilia, and is said to have taken its name from a King Dor- 
 nadilla, who reigned 233 years before the birth of Christ. In Mr. 
 Cordiner's Northern Scenery, there is a drawing and description of 
 this building; several others are given by Mr. Pennant, and also by 
 Mr. Anderson, in the 5th vol. of the Archaclogia. 
 
 vol. 1. a Vitrifiep
 
 11 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Vitrified forts are a late discovery; but their existence is esta- 
 blished past a doubt ; the mode of their construction was to erect a 
 wall of stone without cement, chiefly composed of whin or pudding 
 stones, and other materials easily fused ; these walls being thus finish- 
 ed, a large quantity of wood was piled up against them, and being set 
 on fire, melted the fusible substances, which served as a cement of the 
 strongest and most durable kind, to bind the whole mass together; 
 that this method would produce the desired effect, we have the opi- 
 nion of one of the first chymists of the age in the note* below; this 
 
 * A letter from Dr. Joseph Black, professor of cliymistry in the University of Edin- 
 burgh, to Mr. Williams, who seems to have been the first that published any account of 
 these forts. 
 
 « SIR, 
 
 " I am much obliged to you for the sight of your letters concerning the vitrified 
 fortresses in the North. 1 had got, formerly, from some of my friends, some account of 
 extraordinary vitrified walls, which they had seen in tlieHighlands ; and Mr. JamesWatt,who 
 spent some time in surveying a part of the country, communicated a number of particular 
 observations which he had made upon one of these ruins : but we were not enabled to judge 
 with any certainty, for what purpose, or in what manner, these hitherto unheard-of buildings 
 had been erected. It is very probable that they were executed in some such manner as you 
 have imagined. There are in most parts in Scotland, different kinds of stone, which can, 
 without much difficulty, be melted, or softened by fire to such a degree, as to make them 
 run together. Such is the grey stone, called whin-stone, which for some time past, has been 
 carried to London to pave the streets ; such also is the granite or moor-stone, which is applied 
 to the same use; and pieces of which are plainly visible in some specimens of these vitrified 
 walls, which I have received from my friends ; there are also many lime-stones, which in 
 consequence of their containing certain proportions of sand and clay, are very fusible; and 
 there is no doubt, that sand-stone and pudden-stone, when they happen to contain certain 
 proportions of iron, mixed with the sand and gravel of which they are composed, must have 
 the same quality ; a pudden-stone composed of pieces of granite, must necessarily have it. 
 " There is abundance of one or other of these kinds of stone in many parts of Scotland ; 
 and as the whole country was anciently a forest, and the greater part of it overgrown with 
 wood, it is easy to understand how those who erected these works, got the materials neces- 
 sary for their purpose. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient humble servant, 
 Edinburgh, April i8th, 1777. Joseph Black." 
 
 To Mr. John Williams. 
 
 most
 
 INTRODUCTION. Hi 
 
 most probably discovered by accident. Mr. Williams, in his account 
 of these vitrified forts, mentions the following circumstances as com- 
 mon to them all. 
 
 " All the vitrified forts, I have seen (says he) are situated on the 
 summit of a small hill; small I mean, in comparison of the lofty 
 highland mountains. From the sites of these forts, we usually com- 
 mand the view of a beautiful valley, or of a widely extended level 
 country. A level area of greater or less extent is always found on the 
 summit of the fortified eminences; and part of this level area is enclosed 
 by a wall. But what is most extraordinary, the materials of this wall 
 seem to have been vitrified, or run, and compacted together by the force 
 of fire; and that so thoroughly, that most of the stones are melted 
 down ; and any part of them not quite run to glass, is entirely enve- 
 loped by the vitrious matter. The vitrification in some places has 
 been so complete, that the ruins now appear like vast masses of coarse 
 glass, or slags. Although the fortified hills have a level area on their 
 summit, they are every where difficult of access, except in one place, 
 which has been strengthened by additional works. I have seen some 
 of these hills of an eliptic form, and accessible at both ends; and the 
 ruins which remain at the extremities, shew, that when the area is of 
 this form, it has been strongly fortified at each end." 
 
 All the vitrified forts hitherto described, have been discovered in. 
 the North; some have, it is reported, been lately found in Galloway. 
 These vitrified fortresses and the Pictish houses, similar to Dun Dor- 
 nadilla, are the two kinds of antique monuments I alluded to, as pecu- 
 liar to Scotland. 
 
 Another species of building attributed to the Picts, is found in. 
 Scotland; but of this sort there are only two, one at Brechin, the other 
 at Abernethy. These are the tall slender conical towers, supposed 
 penitentiary, very common in Ireland. Both these occur in the work. 
 
 Of earthen works, there are a great variety all over the country: 
 sepulchral mounts, called barrows ; small circular entrenchments, sup- 
 posed Danish forts; mote hills, or places for administration of public 
 justice, for considerable districts ; and court hills, whereon the ancient 
 
 Lairds
 
 iv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Lairds held their baronial courts, before the demolition of the feudal 
 system ; there are also large earthen works called bow butts ; they were 
 places used for the exercise of archery. These mote and court hills 
 serve to explain the use of those high mounts still remaining near our 
 ancient castles, which were probably judgment seats, but have been 
 mistaken for military works, a sort of ancient cavaliers, raised to com- 
 mand the moveable towers, so commonly used in the attacks of for- 
 tresses. I, among others, for want of having seen and considered these 
 mote and court hills, was led to adopt that idea. The following ar- 
 guments used by Mr. Nemmo, in his History of Sterlingshire, seem to 
 me uncontrovertable.* Artificial mounts, or mote hills, are found near 
 
 Canterbury, 
 
 " In ancient times, courts for the administration of justice were generally held in the open 
 fields, and judgment was both given and executed in the same place ; in every earld otn, and 
 almost every barony and jurisdiction of any considerable extent, there was a particular p'acc 
 allotted for that purpose; it was generally a small eminence, either natural or artificial, 
 near the principal Mansion-house, and was called the mote hill, or in Latin, mom < laciti. 
 In that place all the vassals of the jurisdiction were obliged to appear at iwdain times ; and 
 the superior gave judgment in such causes as fell within the powers committed to him by 
 law or custom; in the same spot too, the gallows was ordinarily erected for the execution 
 of capital offenders ; hence these places commonly go by the name of the Gallows Knoll ; 
 near the royal palaces there was usually a mote hill, where all the freeholders of the king- 
 dom met together, both to transact public offices, and to do homage to their sovereign, who 
 was seated on the top of the eminence. The mote hill at Scoons this day universally Known. 
 It is highly probable the Hurly llcaky was the mi>te hill ot the Castle of Sterling, or per- 
 haps of a much larger jurisdiction. In 1360, a deadlv feud which had long subsisted be- 
 tween the Drummonds and Menteaths, at that tune two of the most powerful families in 
 Perthshire, and which had heen the cause of much rapine and blood-shed, was composed 
 by the interposition of Sir Robert ErskiiK and Sir Hugh Eglington, the two great justici- 
 aries of the nation, in the neighbourhood, if not on the very mount. Our authority says, 
 " Super ripam aquae de Forth juxta Strivelyn." 
 
 This mode of distributing justice appears to have been the custom of almost all nations, 
 in the more early days of their state; and that iot only to g ; ve their judicial procedures a 
 greater appearance of impartiality and justice, by ' eing carried on in public view, but because 
 there were not houses large enough to contain the numbers tha' usually attended them. 
 The court of Areopagus, at Athens, sat for many years after its first institution, in the open 
 
 air,
 
 INTRODUCTION. v 
 
 Canterbury, Cambridge, Oxford, Lewes, and other large castles. 
 Views and descriptions of the mote of Urr or Galloway, are given in 
 this work, 3S is also one of the Bow Butts, at Jarburgh, in Dum- 
 friesshire. 
 
 Tall sculptured stones, called standing stones, arc frequently found 
 in different parts of Scotland ; these seem to have been of two sorts, 
 one triumphal, set up to commemorate some memorable and happy 
 national event; such as a victory over the Danes, or other invaders: 
 the other to obtain the prayers of passengers for the souls of persons 
 there slain, or who perished by some unlucky accident. Both these 
 stones have on them the figure of a cross, with diverse knots of gro- 
 tesque scroll work, vulgarly denominated Danish Tangles. Some are 
 charged with a kind of hieroglyphicks. Mr. Pennant has engraved 
 many of these stones. 
 
 The ecclesiastical antiquities come next in order; these are monas- 
 teries, collegiate churches, and hospitals. The first convents or re- 
 ligious societies in Scotland were formed by a set of hermits called 
 Culdees, i. e. Cultores Dei, or, as some derive it, Keldees, from living 
 in cells. These were, according to diverse authors, certain Christian 
 Britons, who flying the persecution under Dioclesian, retired first to 
 the Isle of Man, and afterwards spread themselves over Scotland. They 
 lived at first the solitary life of hermits; but when the heat of perse- 
 cution had subsided, they assembled together in societies, where they 
 might be assistant to each other, appointing one of superior wisdom and 
 sanctity to govern the community. This is said to have been done at 
 the persuasion of St. Columba, who in the reign of Congellus II. re- 
 turning from Ireland, whither he had accompanied St. Patrick, to assist 
 
 air, as did the ancient courts of the Egyptians, Gauls, and Germans. The Sa\ons ordina- 
 rily held their national councils on eminences; hence they are called folk-motes, that is, 
 the meeting of the people. Twice a year too, there were general meetings in every shire, 
 which were called shire-motes. After the Norman conquest, the practice was not continued. 
 Inferior courts of judicature, for the administration of justice, were also held in the open3ir, 
 both in England and Scotland ; hence they are called justice-airs. The vestiges of mote- 
 hills are to be seen almost every where. 
 
 vol. I. b in
 
 vi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 in the conversion of that nation, founded the monastery of Icolm kill*, 
 in one of the Western Isles, where he lived a pious and exemplary life, 
 keeping strict discipline in his convent, although they were not bound 
 by any particular vows. After this example diverse other societies were 
 instituted, at Abernethy, Kilrimont, Abercorn, and other places : over 
 most of these Icolm kill had a kind of paternal jurisdiction. From these 
 most of the parochial churches were supplied with ministers. 
 
 The Culdees were strenuous opposers of the Papal innovations and 
 authority ; but the emissaries of that church having gained an influ- 
 ence over the mind of King David, a Legate from Pope Innocent II. 
 was received in Scotland with great respect, and the Papal authority, 
 by quick strides obtained the supremacy throughout that kingdom. 
 Yet, nevertheless, the Culdees were not, according to Sir James Dal- 
 rymple f, entirely suppressed till the beginning of the fourteenth 
 century. 
 
 The Roman authority, forms, and discipline having thus been 
 established in Scotland, a variety of orders of Monks and Friars X were 
 
 introduced, 
 
 * Icolm kill, i. c. the Island of Si. Columba's Church. Such was the high opinion 
 entertained of the sanctity of the first Culdees, that their cells after their deaths were con- 
 verted into churches: so Kilmarnock, Kilpatrick, Kilrinny, &c. &c. signifies the cell of 
 Marnock, cell of Patrick, the cell of Ninian, &c. 
 
 t Collections concerning the Scott. Hist. Chap. 9. 
 
 t It is necessary to point out a distinction not in general sufficiently attended to ; this is 
 the difference between the Monks and Friars, with the reasons which caused the latter, from 
 some particular circumstances in their institution, to become the objects of envy and hatred ; 
 both the monastic or regular, and parochial or secular clergy, encouraged the attacks made 
 
 en them. 
 
 The Monks were by most of their rules absolutely forbidden to go out of their monas- 
 teries, so could only receive such donations as were brought to them ; whereas the Friars, 
 who were professed Mendicants, on receiving notice of the sickness of any rich person, con- 
 stantly detached some eloquent members of their community to admonish and persuade the 
 sick man to give or bequeath some alms to their convent, or to direct some limb or part of 
 his body to be interred in their church; by this means they commonly forestalled not only 
 the Monks, but likewise the Parochial Clergy ; and being besides most of them professed 
 preachers, their sermons were frequently compared with those of the Secular Clergy, not in 
 
 general
 
 INTRODUCTION. vii 
 
 introduced, some of them under different denominations from those by 
 which they were known in England. For this purpose a list of the 
 different orders, as given in Keith's Appendix to the Lives of the Bi- 
 shops, is here, in substance, transcribed. 
 
 The Canons - Regular of St. Augustine were first brought to 
 Scotland by Atelwolpus, Prior of St. Oswald, of Nostcl in Yorkshire, 
 and afterwards Bishop of Carlisle; who established them at Scone, in 
 the year 1114, at the desire of king Alexander I. They had twenty- 
 eight monasteries in Scotland. 
 
 The Canons of St. Anthony had only one monastery in Scot- 
 land, which was seated at Leith, in the shire of Mid Lothian, and is 
 now called the South Kirk. The religious hereof were brought from 
 St. Anthony, of Vienne, in the province of Dauphiny, in France, the 
 residence of the superior general of that congregation. Their houses 
 were called hospitals, and their governors prasceptores. It appears by a 
 charter of Humbertus, chief or general of the order in the year 1446, 
 that these of Leith did not live very peaceably together. Upon the 
 common seal of the chapter they carried a figure of St.' Anthony, 
 clothed in an old gown or mantle of an hermit, and towards his right 
 foot a wild sow, and upon the circumference of it the following words, 
 Sigillum commune Cap'iluli Sanct'i Antbon'u prope Leith. They followed 
 the rule of St. Augustine, and wore a black gown, with a blue T of 
 stuff on their left breast: they had neither an Almuce nor a Rochet, 
 whereof the Canons Regular and Bishops made use. 
 
 The Red Friars (who pretended to be Canons-Regular, not- 
 withstanding that that name, which they are willing to assume, is 
 
 general to the advantage of the latter. In these sermons the poverty and distresses of their 
 order were topicks not omitted or slightly passed over. So sensible were the other clergy ot 
 these advanges, that there is scarce a cathedral or large monastery in England hut has some 
 satyrical sculptures about it, of which Friars are the subject. Nor considering the power ot 
 the church before the Reformation, would any of the troubadours or poets, such as Chaucer, 
 Boccace, have ventured to tell those ridiculous stories of the Friars, with which their works 
 sbound, had they not been underhand protected by the more powerful clergy. 
 
 strongly
 
 viii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 strongly controverted by their adversaries) are likewise called Trinity 
 Friars, or Matharines, from their house at Paris, which is dedicated to 
 St. Matharine; as also, De redemptlone captivorum, their office being to 
 redeem the Christian Captives from Turkish slavery. They were 
 established by St. John of Maltha and Felix de Valois, an Anchorite at 
 Cerfroid, (apud Ccrvum frigidum in territorio Meldensi) about three miles 
 from Grandalu. Innocent III. approved this institution, and granted 
 several privileges to the order, which were confirmed by Pope Inno- 
 cent IV. the 26th November, 1246. St. Thomas, of Aquinas, and 
 St. Anthonine commend this order in their sums. 
 
 Their houses were named hospitals or ministries, and their superiors 
 Ministers (Ministri.) Their substance or rents were divided into three 
 parts, one or which was reserved for redeeming Christian slaves from 
 amongst the Infidels. 
 
 Br a bull of Pope Innocent III. dated 21st June, 1209, it appears 
 they had six monasteries in Scotland, whilst he was pope : at the Re- 
 formation they were increased to thirteen. The first was Aberdeen, 
 founded by King W illiam the Lyon. 
 
 Their habit was white, with a red and blue cross patee upon their 
 scapular. Their General Chapter was held yearly on Whitsunday in 
 Octavis Pentecostes. Their way of living was much conformable to 
 that of the Canons of St. Victor, at Paris. At their first institution 
 their superior general was elective, and chosen by the General Chapter. 
 
 The Pr^emonstratensians were so named from their prin- 
 cipal monastery, Prasmonstratum, in the diocese of Laon, in France, 
 which the Monks of this order pretend was so called from its being 
 Divina revelatione prasmonstratum (foreshown by Divine revelation.) 
 This order is also called Candidas Ordo, because their garb is entirely 
 white. They followed the rule of St. Augustine, which they say was 
 delivered to them in golden letters from himself, in a vision; and were 
 founded by St. Norbert, a German Archbishop, of Magdeburgh, who 
 obtained for himself and his successors in that see, the title of Primate 
 of Germany. His order was confirmed by Pope Honorius II. and 
 Innocent III. he retired with some companions about the year 11 20. 
 There were of this order six monasteries in Scotland. 
 
 The
 
 INTRODUCTION. ix 
 
 The V F-.xEDicTiXES were founded bv St. Benedict, who was the 
 firft that brought the monaftic life into cftimation in the Weft. He 
 was born at N?/rsi, a town of Italy, about the year 480, and eftahlifhcd 
 his followers about the fifth century, who were fometimes called 
 BenedicVines, from their founder, and fometimes Black. Monks, from 
 the colour of their habit. 
 
 Berno built a new monaftcry near Cluniacum, and began to reform 
 the Benedictines about the year 94.0. Thence came the congregation 
 of Cluny. Moreover the order of St. Benedict hath been the iourcc 
 of fcveral others, who follow the rule of their firft founder. 
 
 These Monks were either brought from monafteries depending 
 upon the abbacy of Fleury la Riviere, on the river of Loire, in France, 
 from Tyron, in the Province of Perche, or Cluny, in Burgundy; as 
 alfo the Ciftertians and thofc of the congregation of Vallis-Caulium, 
 called Val-des-choux, like wife in Burgundy. Thofe who had relation 
 to Fleury la Riviere had three convents in this country. 
 
 The Tyronenses had their name from their firft abbey called 
 Tyronium (Tyron) in the Diocefe of Chartres, and not from the 
 Latin word Tyra, as fome would have it, fignifying thereby their No- 
 vitiate. There Rotrou, Earl of Perche and Mortagne, gave to St. Ber- 
 nard, Abbot of St. Ciprian, in Poictou, a fettlement, in the year 1 109, 
 after he had wandered a long time through Brittany and Normandy. 
 They likewife followed the rule of St. Bennet or Benedict, and had 
 fix monafteries in Scotland. 
 
 The Clusiacenses were fo called from the abbacy of Cluny, in 
 Burgundy, near the river of Grofne, four leagues from Macon, in 
 France, where Berno revived the rules of St. BenedicT:, adding fome 
 new conftitutions; and when he was dying placed Odo as Abbot or 
 Superior of this new monaftcry. The Monks of this inftitution had 
 four monafteries in this kingdom. 
 
 The CisxERTiANS or Bernardines was a religious order begun 
 by Robert, Abbot of Molefmc, in the Diocefe of Langres, in France, 
 in the year 1098. Thefe Monks were called Monachi Albi, White 
 Monks, for diftinguifhing them from the BcncdicTincs, whofe habit 
 was entirely black; whereas the Ciftcrtians wore a black cowl and 
 
 vol. 1. c fcapular,
 
 x INTRODUCTIO N. 
 
 fcapular, and all their other clothes were white. They were named 
 Ciftcrtians from their chief houfe and firft monafteries, Ciftertium in 
 Burgundy ; and Bernardines, becaufe St Bernard, native of Burgundy, 
 fifteen years after the foundation of the monaftery of Citeaux, went 
 thither with thirty of his companions, and behaved himfelf fo well to 
 their humour, that he was fome time after elecled Abbot of Clairvoux. 
 This Bernard founded above 160 monafteries of his order; and becaufe 
 he was fo great a propagator of it, the Monks were called from his 
 name, Bernardines. They were divided into thirty provinces, whereof 
 Scotland was the twenty-fixth, and had thirteen monafteries. 
 
 The Monks of Vallis-caulium, Vallisolerum, or Val 
 des cuoux, are fo named from the firft priory of that congregation, 
 which was founded by Virard, in the Diocefe of Langres, betwixt 
 Dijon and Autun, in Burgundy, in the year 1 193. They are a reform 
 of the Ciftcrtians, and follow the rule of St. Benedict. By their con- 
 ftitutions they were obliged to live an auftere and folitary life, none 
 but the Prior and Procurator being allowed to go out of the cloifters 
 for any reafon whatfoever. They were brought to Scotland by Wil- 
 liam Malvoifin, Bifhop of St. Andrews, in the year 1230, and had 
 three monafteries in Scotland. 
 
 The Carthusian Monks were eftablifhed by Bruno, a Doctor of 
 Paris, and a Canon of Rheims, in the year 1086, in the wild moun- 
 tains of Grenoble, in France, under the protection of the Virgin Mary 
 and St. John the Baptirt. The reafon of his retreat is reputed to have 
 proceeded from the following accident, which fell out during the fu- 
 neral fervice performed for Raymond Dion, a profeffor of the Univerfity 
 of Paris, who had been in very great efteem, not only for his doctrine, 
 but alfo for the apparent integrity of a good life : but (as the ftory goes) 
 the dead corpfe all on a fudden fat upright on the bier, and cried with 
 a lamentable voice, I am condemned by the juft judgment of God. 
 Thefe words it uttered three feveral days. Bruno being prefent at this 
 fight, and taking occafion from the ftrangenefs of the thing to 
 make a ferious difcourfe to the affembly, he concluded, that it was im- 
 poffible for them to be faved, unlets they renounced the world and re- 
 tired into defarts; hereupon he, with fix of his fcholars, retired 
 
 to
 
 INTRODUCTION. xi 
 
 to the Carthufian Mountains, in Daupheny, where he was affiftcd with 
 all things by the Bifhop of that place, named Hugo, who afterwards 
 became one of his Difciples. They built in that defart little cells, at 
 fome diftance each from another, where they lived in filence. They 
 propofed to follow the rule of St. Benedict, adding thereto fevcral other 
 great aufterities. They came into England in the year 1 180, and from 
 thence into Scotland in the year 1429. They had only one eftablifh- 
 ment amonatt us, fituated near Perth, which King James I. founded 
 after his captivity in England. 
 
 The Gilbertines, or religious of Sempringham, was an order 
 eftablifhed by one Gilbert, who was born in the reign of William the 
 Conqueror; his father was a gentleman of Normandy, Lord of Sem- 
 pringham and Tyrington, in Lincolnfhire, and his mother an Englifh 
 lady; after he had ended his Studies in France, he returned home, and 
 was ordained prieft by the Bifhop of Lincoln: having received holy 
 orders, he fpent all his fubftance and patrimony on the poor, and in 
 actions of piety; and took particular care of dittreffed girls, who were 
 afhamed to make known to the world their poverty and condition; of 
 this number he fhut up feven in a monaftery which he had built at 
 Sempringham, in the year 1 146. He gave them fervants, who pre- 
 pared their victuals withoutdoors, and delivered them what was pre- 
 pared through a window: their lives and converfation were fo exem- 
 plary, that many ladies embraced their way of living. This occaiioned 
 Gilbert to build new cloifters; and the Ciftertians,whom he was defirous 
 to have for their directors, refufmg that office, he called fome Canons 
 Regular, who undertook it: fo that by this means their monafteries be- 
 came double, that is to fay, compofed both of men and women, who 
 dwelt under the fame roof, but in different apartments. He prefcribed 
 to the Canons the rule of St. Auguftine, and to the Nuns, that of St. 
 Benedict, with fome private constitutions, which were approved by the 
 Popes Eugenius III. Adrian IV. and Alexander III. According to 
 thefe rules, a Nun was not allowed to fpeak at the grate, unlefs four 
 witneffes were prefent. At the reformation, this institution had twenty- 
 one houfes in England, of which Sempringham was the head, where theii 
 general chapters were held yearly; the fuperior of every houfe affifting 
 
 at
 
 xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 at the affembly with a profcffed fifter of the Quire, and a converfe, who 
 had a vote at their meeting; the fuperior of the Canons being likewifc 
 prefent, but his Laick brother had no vote. There was only one 
 monaftery of this order in Scotland, viz. at DnlmeJlln, fituate on the 
 river of Air, in the fhire of the fame name, founded by Walter III. 
 JLord High Steward of Scotland; the Nuns and Canons were brought 
 from Syxle, in Yorkshire. 
 
 The Templars. There were likewife among us two orders of 
 religious knights, one of which was the Templars, or Red Friars, 
 eftablifhed at Jerufalem, in the year 1 1 18, by Hugo de Pagauis, and 
 Gaufridus de Sanclo Aldemaro. Baldwin II. King of Jerufalem, gave 
 them a dwelling near the temple of that city, from whence they were 
 called Templars. They followed the rule of St. Augufline, and the 
 conftitution of the Canons regular of Jerufalem, the office and vow 
 being to defend the temple and city of Jerufalem, to entertain Chriftian 
 ftrangers and Pilgrims charitably, and guard them fafely through the 
 Holy Land. There was one general prior that had the government of 
 this order in Scotland and in England. According to the book of 
 Couper, they were brought into Scotland by King David I. This 
 order was very rich, and had above 9000 houfes in Chriftendome; and 
 in Scotland there was fcarce a parifh wherein they had not fome 
 lands, farms, or houfes. In Edinburgh there were a great many 
 buildings belonging to them, as alfo in Leith. When any of thefc 
 buildings were feued out to Seculars, they had a great care to order the 
 poffeffors to keep conftantly the crofs of the order on the top of the 
 houfe, as a token that they were fubject to them, and that he was only 
 liable to anfwer to their courts. 
 
 They wore a white habit, to which Pope Eugenius III. added a red 
 crofs of ftuff fewed upon their cloaks. 
 
 This order being in a general council held at Vienne, in France, by 
 Pope Clement V. fuppreffed, for fuppofed crimes, in the year 1312, 
 their houfes, goods, and fubftance were given to the Knights of St. 
 John in Jerufalem. They had, before this diflblution, above eight 
 capital manfions in Scotland. 
 
 The
 
 INTRODUCTION. ni 
 
 The Knights of St. John o Jerusalem, or Johannanites, had their 
 first beginning from certain devout merchants of the city of Melphi, 
 in the kingdom of Naples, who trading to the Holy Land, obtaiucd of 
 the Calif of Egypt, a permission to build a church and monastery at 
 Jerusalem, for the reception of pilgrims that came to visit the Holy 
 Land, and paid a yearly tribute upon, that account ; afterwards they 
 built a church in honour of the Virgin Mary, and another consecrated 
 to the memory of Mary Magdalene, the one being for men, and the 
 other for women, who w r ere received there with great demonstrations of 
 charity. When this city was taken by Godfrey of Boullogne, Gerard 
 ol Martiques, native of Provence in France, built there a larger church, 
 with an hospital for the sick and for pilgrims, in the year 1104, in 
 honour of St. John, where he placed these knights, who took their 
 name from that hospital; and when Saladin expelled them out of Jeru- 
 salem in the year 1187, they retired to the fortress ofMargat, in 
 Phoenicia; afterwards they settled at Acre or Ptolemals; thence they 
 followed John of Luzignan, to Cyprus, from whence they retired to 
 Rhodes; but Rhodes being taken by Soliman, the magnificient, Em- 
 peror of the Turks, in the year 1522, they retired to Viterbo, in Italy; 
 and in the year 1534, were placed by the Emperor Charles V. at 
 Malta, where they still remain, and are called Knights of Malta, which 
 is an island in the Mediterranean Sea, not far distant from Sicily. No 
 man can be admitted into this order, without making proofof his birth, 
 and justifying by charters, or other authentic documents, h is nobility 
 for four generations, both on the father and mother's side. He must 
 be born in lawful marriage, the bastards of Kings and Princes being only 
 excepted. They have constant wars with the Turks, and take the three 
 ordinary vows of religion, viz. poverty, chastity, and obedience; they 
 wear a black habit, with a cross of gold, having eight points, enamelled 
 white, in memory of the eight beatitudes. This order was first composed 
 of eight languages or nations, whereof the Grand Prior of Provence is 
 .creat commendator, the Prior of Auvergne is great marshal, the Prior of 
 the Isle of France, great hospitalier, the great Prior of Italy is admiral, 
 the Prior of Arragon is great conservator, the Prior of Germany is great 
 bailiff, the Prior of Castile is great chancellor, and the Prior of England 
 
 d is
 
 xiv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 is great turcopolier, or colonel of the cavalry; upon the fuppreffion of 
 the Templars, as has been before faid, they got many of their lands. 
 
 Pope Paschal III. confirmed this order in the year 1 1 1 3, and 
 Pope Pius II. difpenfed with the great rigour of their rules, which at 
 firft were very fevere, mitigating the conftitutions formed by Raymond 
 dc Pay, of an ancient houfe in Dauphiny. The great mafter is by his 
 fubjects ftiled Prince of Malta and Goza, which is a fmall iiland in the 
 Mediterranean Sea, not far diftant from Malta; yet in his patents, he 
 is by the grace of God, humble great mafter of the facred hofpital of 
 St. John of Jerufalem, and warden of the poor of Jefus Chrift. The 
 arms of this order are gules, a crofs argent, which all the knights bear 
 in chief with their paternal coat. 
 
 The principal dwelling of thefe knights was at Torpichen, in the 
 ihire of Weft Lothian. 
 
 The fame crofs as was fet on by the Templars, to mark their 
 property, was alfo adopted by the Johannanites, wherefore we ftill fee 
 to this day a great number of crofies upon the tops of divers buildings 
 in the cities of Edinburgh and Leith. 
 
 The houfes of thefe knights were called preceptories; the chief 
 officers were called the preceptors. 
 
 The Dominican or Black Friars, was an order of Mendicants 
 called also Preaching Friars, from their frequent preaching ; they were 
 founded by St. Dominick, a Spaniard, firft inftitutor of the inquifition ; 
 he was a defcendant of the ancient family of Gufman, was a canon re- 
 gular of the cathedral of Ofma, arch-deacon of that church, particularly 
 renowned for his fcrmons againft the Albigenfes, and founder of a con- 
 gregation of preachers, who devoted themfelves entirely to the con- 
 verfion of hereticks. 
 
 He died in the year 1221, after his order had been approved of by 
 Pope Innocent III. in the year 1215, and by Honorius III. his fucceflbr, 
 in 1 216. This order was afterwards divided into forty-five provinces, 
 whereof Scotland was the eighteenth, whither they were brought in 
 the reign of King Alexander II. by William Malvoifin, Bifnop of St. 
 Andrew's. They had fifteen convents here; and at their diflblution, 
 were found much richer than accorded with their vow of poverty. 
 
 This
 
 INTRODUCTION, xv 
 
 This order is one of the mod confiderable of the church of Rome: 
 there having been of it three or four popes, fevcral cardinals, and a 
 great many bifhops and learned men. Their fuperiors are elective 
 according to the ftatutes written by Vincentius de Bandel de Chateau 
 Neuf, an Italian, and general of the order; the brethren ought to re- 
 nounce all worldly pofleffions; they ought to abftain from eating flcfii 
 feven months together, viz. from September to Eafter ; they ought not 
 to lye on feather beds, nor in fheets, but on a mattrefs; they ought to 
 fay the office of the Virgin Mary every Saturday, in cafe there falls 
 neither feaft nor faft on that day. Their patron, St. Dominick, was, 
 by Pope Honorius III. made Magifter Sacrii Palatii, which place to 
 this day is always held by a Dominican, to whom likevvile belongs 
 the interpretation of the fcripture and the cenfure of all books. They 
 may preach any where without obtaining the permiffion of the bifhops, 
 and are allowed to confefs all noblemen and their ladies, without the 
 confent of their curates. They give the facrament every where, and 
 are exempted from all ecclefiaftical cenfures*. Their habit is a white 
 gown and fcapular, which they say was prefcribed them by the Virgin 
 Mary. 
 
 The Franciscans or Grey Friars. This was likewife a men- 
 dicant order; they are named Francifcans from their founder, St. 
 Francis, a merchant of Affife, in Italy ; Grey Friars from the colour 
 of their habit ; and Friars Minors, and Minorites, a title they affected 
 to affume from humility, deeming themfelves the leait or meaneft of 
 their function. 
 
 They were efiablifhed by St. Francis in the year 1206, and con- 
 firmed by pope Innocent III. in 1209. Their fuperiors were called 
 Wardens (Cuftodes.) They were divided into conventuals and Obfer- 
 vantines; thefe laft were reformed by Bernardine, of Sienna, in the year 
 
 * My author says " The Emperor, Henry VII. is thought to have been poifoned with a 
 Hoftie given by a Dominican, fince which time they were, as a punifhmenr, ordered to give 
 the Hoftie with the left hand, which they obferveto this day." I do not find any authority 
 for this being ftill obferved, or indeed for its ever having been ordered. 
 
 14IO.
 
 xvi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 1419, and were called Obfervantines, becaufe they profeffed to obferve 
 the rule of St. Francis more ftrictly than the Conventuals, by going 
 bare-footed, and wearing no linen. The Conventuals came into Scot- 
 land in the year 1 2 19, and had eight convents here. The Obfervantines 
 were introduced and fettled here by King James I. who obtained a co- 
 lony of them from their vicar- general at Cologne. They polTetTed 
 nine convents. 
 
 The Carmelites were the third order of begging friars; they 
 had their origin and name from Mount Carmel, in Syria. This 
 mountain is fituated in the lands of the tribe oi~ Iftachar, and is in 
 circuit about thirteen leagues; it is covered with feveral trees, con- 
 stantly green ; there are a great many fountains, fome villages, and 
 feveral dens or caves to be feen there, wherein a great number of pil- 
 grims of the weft dwelt of old, expofed to the fury of the Turks. St. 
 Lewis, king of France, returning from Alia, brought along with him 
 fome of this order, and beftowed on them a dwelling place at the end 
 of Paris, where the Celeftines are now eftablifhed. They were divided 
 into thirty-two provinces, of which Scotland was the thirteenth, where 
 they were called White Friars, from their outer garment. They came 
 into this kingdom in the eleventh year of the reign of king Alexander 
 III. and had nine convents, 
 
 The nuns of Scotland, like the monks, followed either the rule of 
 St. Auguftine, St. Benedict, or St. Francis They were bound never 
 to go forth of their cloifters after they were profelfcd and had made 
 their vows. 
 
 According to the conftitution of Pope Boniface ViII. thofe of 
 St. Auguftine's rule had only two monafteries in this country, the one 
 of ChanoncfTes, the other of Dominican Nuns. 
 
 The Black or Benedictine Nuns followed the rule of St. 
 Benedict, and were eftablifhed by his fifter St. Scholaftica. They had 
 five convents in Scotland. 
 
 The Bernard ines or Cistertians likewife followed the rule of 
 St. Benedict, and had thirteen convents. 
 
 The Nuns of St. Francis 01 Claresses were eftablimed by 
 St. Clara, whence they derived their appellation. She was born of 
 
 honourable
 
 INTRODUCTION. xvii 
 
 honourable parents, at Affife, in Italy, and was admitted into the order 
 by St. Francis himfelf, the 19th of March, 1212, and was fhortly 
 afterwards followed by a great many other ladies, for whom St. Francis 
 wrote a particular rule, full of rigour and aufterities. They had no 
 revenues, depending wholly on providence and the charity of good 
 chriftians for their fubfiftence. The nuns of this inftitution had only 
 two houfes. 
 
 Besides thefe regulars there were feveral collegiate churches creeled 
 for fecular canons; they were called Praspofitura?, and were governed 
 by dean or provoft, who had all jurifdi&ion over them; they were 
 inftituted for performing divine fervicc, and finging of maftes for the 
 fouls of the founders and patrons, or their friends. 
 
 These churches confiftcd of prebendaries or canons, where they 
 had their feveral degrees or flails, and fat for finging more orderly the 
 canonical hours; and with their dean or provoft, made up the chap- 
 ter; they were commonly erected out of feveral parifh churches united 
 for that effect, or out of the chaplainries that were founded under the 
 roof of their churches. Of thefe there were in Scotland thirty-three. 
 
 The loweft order of ecclefiaftical eftablifhments were hofpitals, 
 thefe were erected either for receiving ftrangers and travellers, or main- 
 taining poor and infirm people. Of thefe, Keith gives a lift of twenty- 
 eight, but fays, he is convinced it might be vaftly augmented. 
 
 The ecclefiaftical buildings of Scotland, confidered as works of art 
 and magnificence, are in point of execution by no means inferior to 
 thofe of England. The ruins of the Abbey of Kclfo exhibit a fpeci- 
 men of the ftyle commonly called Saxon, not to be equalled by any 
 building of that kind in the South. 
 
 The Abbey of Melrofs, in point of beautiful tracery in the windows, 
 high-finifhing in the foliage, and other ornamental fculptures on the 
 building, feems carried to the utmoft degree of perfection, of which 
 the art is capable. 
 
 The general defign and decorations of the Church of Elgin are 
 elegantly conceived; the parts are likewife finifned with great neatneis 
 and precifion. The Abbey of Jedburgh is a beautiful pile, well de- 
 figned and finely executed. The Abbeys of Dumfermling and Paifley 
 
 e will
 
 xviii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 will give pleafure to every lover of that beautiful {tile of architecture 
 degraded with the appellation of Gothic. What the Abbey of Ar- 
 broath wants in neatnefs and decoration is compenfated for in the 
 greatnefs of its dimenfions. Dundrennan and New Abbeys appear to 
 have been very handfome edifices: as do many more, which I have 
 not here room to particularife. 
 
 The ancient Border-houfes, Fortalices, and Caftles of Scotland feem 
 to have been very numerous, though ftnall. Major fays there were 
 two in every league. 
 
 They appear to have been rather calculated to afford refuge in cafe 
 of any fudden attack from fmall bodies of Marauders, than to refift 
 the aflault of any well appointed regular troops, fupported by ordnance, 
 or the military machines of ancient times. 
 
 There is a great fimilarity between moil of thefe buildings, which 
 in general confifl: of a high fquare tower, mounted on a rock or other 
 eminence, frequently overhanging the fea or fome river. The walls 
 of thefe towers are generally extremly ftrong, often from thirteen to 
 fifteen feet thick, rifing in height to three or four ftories, each ftory 
 vaulted, and the whole covered by a vaulted roof. At every angle, re- 
 entering as well as falient, a turret fupported like the guerites at the 
 falient angles of modern baftions. At each end of the tower, adjoining 
 to the roof, is commonly a triangular gable, the fides diminifhing by a 
 number of {reps, called crow fteps. Near the top of the tower, ufually 
 runs a cornice of brackets, like thofe fupporting machicollations. At 
 the bottom of moft of thefe towers was the pit or prifon, a deep dark 
 dungeon, into which the miferable prifoners were let down by ropes. 
 An iron door to the chief entrance was alio no unfrequent piece of fe- 
 curity. This was the general form of moft of thefe ancient fortalices. 
 
 Sometimes inftead of one tower, the original building confifted of 
 two, placed together at right angles like the letter L or T, thereby 
 forming a kind of mutual defence or partial flank ; to both thefe and 
 the firft mentioned tower, as luxury and fecurity increafed, additional 
 buildings for lodgings were added, and frequently furrounded by walls. 
 The number of perfons who occafionally crouded together in one of 
 thefe old towers is fcarcely credible. As they were fparingly lighted 
 
 with
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xix 
 
 with very fmall windows, they muft have been as gloomy as unwhole-. 
 fbme. 
 
 When one of thefe caftles was taken by an enemy it was com- 
 monly burned; but as it was almoft a mafs of ftone, the walls fuffercd 
 very little damage by fuch conflagration, but were fhortly after re- 
 paired by the owner, who commonly fet up his arms, and the date of 
 fuch reparation : fo that fome of the more ancient buildings are almoft 
 covered over with arms, inferiptions, and devices. 
 
 POSTCRIPT. 
 
 Having at length accomplifhed my undertaking it remains for me 
 to acknowledge the affiftance I have received, as well with refpecl; to 
 the drawings as defcriptions. 
 
 Foremost in my lift ftands Captain Henry Hutton, of the Royal 
 Regiment of Artillery, who not only favoured me with the ufe of his 
 elegant and accurate drawings, but alfo indulged me with the perufal 
 of his collections refpecling the Monaftic Hiftory of Scotland; from 
 him I had the following Views. 
 
 Dryburgh Abbey, PL I. and II. 
 
 Home Caftle 
 
 Borthwick Caftle 
 
 Crighton Caftle 
 
 Weft Front Holyrood Chapel 
 
 Dirleton Caftle 
 
 Hiddington Church 
 
 Hales Caftle 
 
 Innerwick Caftle, PI. I. 
 
 Seton Church 
 
 Jedborough Abbey 
 
 Kelfo Abbey 
 
 Roxburgh Caftle 
 
 Little Den Caftle 
 
 Pittenweem Abbey 
 
 Lochor Caftle 
 
 Nunnery of Emanuel 
 
 Gowrie Houfe 
 
 Monks Tower 
 
 Elcho Caftle 
 
 Culrofs Abbey 
 
 Aberbroth Abbey, PI. I. 
 
 Reftenot Priory 
 
 Rofeythe Caitle 
 
 Abbey of Balmerino 
 
 Abbey of Kilwinning, from an 
 ancient drawing, before the 
 building of the prefent fpire. 
 
 To
 
 xx INTRODUCTION. 
 
 To my worthy friend Thomas Pennant, Efq. ; of whom any far- 
 ther defcription or encomium would be fuperfluous, I am indebted for 
 the ufe of the following views, taken by his draughtfman, Mofes Grif- 
 fith, but not publifhed. As thefe are moft of them remote places, I 
 conceive I have done an acceptable fervicc by bringing them before 
 the public, to whom they might otherwife have probably been loft 
 for ever. 
 
 Abbey of Pailley 
 Clackmannan Tower 
 Brodie Caftle 
 
 Ranza Caftle 
 Dunvegan Caftle. 
 
 The collegiate church at Hamilton and Dumfries Bridge were 
 drawn by Paul Sandby, Efq. 
 
 Dajlhousie Caftle and Seton Houfe, PI. II. by John Clek, of 
 Elden, Efq. 
 
 To my friend Captain Robert Riddell, of Glenriddell, in Dumfries- 
 Ihire, I am beholden for much hofpitable entertainment, his company 
 and afliftance in viewing many places of antiquity in Dumfriesfhire, 
 Galloway, and Ayrfhire, and likewife for the perufal and free ufe of 
 diverfe curious antiquarian papers and collections made by him, and 
 alfo for diverfe communications procured through his intereft; among 
 others feveral curious articles refpecting the Caftle of Thrieves and 
 
 Kirkcudbright, with a plan of the latter fent me by Gordon, Efq. 
 
 of Greenlaw. 
 
 By my ingenious friend Adam de Cardonnel, of Edinburgh, Efq. 
 author of a valuable ferics of Scottifh Antiquities, drawn, written, and 
 etched by himfelf, I was favoured with many curious notes and de- 
 scriptions collected by him. That gentleman likewife favoured me 
 with his company on feveral expeditions to curious buildings, &c. 
 
 By the Earl of Buchan I was honoured with a defcription of his 
 Abbey of Dryburgh, as printed in the work. And through the favour 
 of the Honourable Henry Erfkine, Dean of Faculty, I was indulged 
 with an accefs to the Advocate's Library, where I met with every 
 fpecies of polite afliftance from the Librarian. 
 
 To
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xxi 
 
 To my ingenious friend Mr. Robert Burns I have been varioufly 
 obligated; he not only was at the pains of marking out what was 
 moft worthy of notice in Ayrfhire, the country honoured by his birth, 
 but he alfo wrote, exprefsly for this work, the pretty tale annexed to 
 Aloway church. 
 
 To Mr. George Paton of Edinburgh, I am obliged for directions to 
 diverfe parages in fcarce books, not eafily procured, and alfo for the 
 gift or loan of diverfe fuch books. 
 
 The honour conferred on me by the Antiquarian Society of Perth, 
 in electing me a Fellow, is too great to be palled over unnoticed. I 
 muft therefore beg leave to return my moft grateful thanks for that 
 honourable diftinction. 
 
 But I find I muft ftop here; was I to particularise every perfon 
 from whom I received civilities, I fhould have occafion to name every 
 perfon with whom I had any tranfaction or intercourfe whilft in Scot- 
 land ; of which country I can moft truly fay, I quitted with regret, 
 and fhall ever remember it with gratitude. 
 
 It is neceffary to inform the reader, that the following views were 
 drawn, under my infpection, by my fervant Thomas Cocking, a young 
 man who promifes to make an accurate draughtfman. 
 
 Marchilton Tower 
 
 The Abbot's Tower, New Abbey 
 
 Laggan Stone, Galloway, PI. I. 
 
 and II. 
 St. John the Baptift's Church, 
 
 Ayre 
 Machlin Caftle 
 Corfhill Houfe 
 Crofs Church, Peebles 
 Auchincafs Caftle 
 
 Glames Caftle, PI. H. 
 Cathedral Church, Old Aberdeen 
 Boyne Caftle, PI. II. 
 Cathedral Church of Elgin, PI. II. 
 Bifhop's Palace, Spynie, PL I. 
 
 and II. 
 Fratery at Dumfermling 
 Cathedral at St. Andrews 
 Black Friars, St. Andrews 
 Den Miln Caftle. 
 
 Hunting Tower, Perthfhire 
 
 All the drawings not mentioned to be done by another were taken 
 by myfelf. I likewife reduced and finifhed up every drawing but one 
 for the engraver. 
 
 f
 
 ( xxii ) 
 
 SCOTCH TERMS 
 
 Which occur in this Work, explained, 
 
 FOR THE USE OF THE 
 
 ENGLISH READER. 
 
 ALTERA GE was a falary paid to a pried for faying a certain number of maffes, at 
 regulated periods, for the foul or fouls of fome perfon or perfons defunft ; it arofe out of 
 certain lands appropriated to that ufe; the places where fuch maffes were fung were de- 
 nominated chantries. 
 
 Burgh of Regality, a jurifdi&ion within which the lord thereof might try all caufes, 
 civil and criminal ; bifhops and monasteries had frequently thefe lordihips, and nominated 
 their bailiffs and deputies to hold their courts. 
 
 Commendators were originally perfons deputed to colledt the revenues of vacant benefices, 
 as {towards, till they were filled up, and then to account for the profits received. In pro- 
 cefs of time, authority was procured from Rome, for commendators to apply thefe reve- 
 nues to their own ufe, during their life-time. Commendators of this kind could be ap- 
 pointed by the pope only. 
 
 Grassum, a fine paid by the tenant on the renewal of hisleafe, 
 
 Manse, the parfonage houfe. 
 
 Mensal Churches were de Menfa a Epifcopi, part of the bifhop's own patrimony or be- 
 nefice, of which he was authorifed to receive the profits, paying his curate fuch a ftipend 
 as they agreed for. 
 
 Multure, a certain ftipulated quantity of meal due to the miller for grinding the corn : all 
 corn grown on farms thirled to a particular mill, is obliged to pay multure, whether the 
 corn is ground at that mill, or elfewhere. 
 
 Mortification, a grant in perpetuity, for pious ufes; lands fo granted or bequeathed, 
 being judged dead with refpect to all worldly traffick, and incapable of future alienation. 
 
 Tack, a leafe whereby the ufe, poffeffion, and profits of an ettate are granted to any one for 
 a determinate time, on the payment of a certain rent, called the tack duty. The granter 
 is called the fetter, and the renter the tackfman. 
 
 That Ilk, of the fame place, as Drummond of Drummond, Menteith of Menteith, faid of 
 a perfon w hole lurname and that of his place of refidence are the fame. 
 
 Thirled
 
 SCOTCH TERMS EXPLAINED. xviil 
 
 Thirled. Formerly tenants of particular eftates were bound to have all the corn grown 
 on their farm, ground at certain mills, and there only, in which cafe they were laid to be 
 thirled to that mill. 
 
 Tiends, tythes. 
 
 Tulchan Bishops, a term of derifion ufed to a certain kind of bifhops, which obtained 
 in the church between the years 1572 and 1592; they procured theepifcopal dignity, with 
 the emoluments, by means of a private compofition with men in power and intcrcft, to 
 whom they paid large contributions, and befides fupported their interefl in parliament : 
 the name was derived from a calf's fkin ftretched on a frame of wood, which being laid 
 under a cow, was fuppofed to increafe her milk; this fkin fo prepared, was called a tul- 
 chan, and was fuppofed to refemble thefe bifhops, in procuring the milk or full revenues 
 of their fee for their patrons, by whofe intereft they had obtained them. Thefe bifhops 
 were protected by Martin the Regent, who is faid to have drawn large fums from them, 
 and obtained an order of privy council, that the office of bifhop fhould remain during the 
 
 minority of K. James VI. They were confecrated by the Prefbyters, and were 
 
 fubject to be depofed by the affemblies, yet continued till 1592, although in 1581, voted 
 to have no foundation in the word of God. 
 
 MEASURES. 
 
 A Chaldron contains twenty bolls. 
 
 A Boll contains four bufhels. 
 
 A Firlot is one buihel. 
 
 A Lafl is two thoufand four hundred pounds in weight. 
 
 A Meil is one hundred and eighty four pounds in weight. 
 
 A Setting is thirty pounds and eleven ounces in weight. 
 
 A Mark is one pound four ounces and a half in weight. 
 
 A Stone is lixteen pounds in weight. 
 
 A Leifpound is one hundred and eighty four pounds in weight. 
 
 A Pound in money is twenty pence fterling. 
 
 A Shilling is one penny fterling. 
 
 A Penny is the twelfth part of a penny fterling. 
 
 Bear is a kind of barley. 
 
 A Mairt, a Hall-fed ox. 
 
 A Stirk, a young bullock. 
 
 Peat, a fuel called turf. 
 
 A Faddom, a cube of fix feet. 
 
 A Tidder, a load. * 
 
 * Maitland's Hift. Scot. p. 241.
 
 THE 
 
 ANTIQUITIES 
 
 OF 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 EDINBURGH CASTLE. 
 
 nPHIS Caftle ftands on a rock whofe area meafures feven acres: it 
 is elevated 294 feet above the level of the fea, and acceffible only 
 on the eaftern fide, all the others being nearly perpendicular. A fitua- 
 tion like this muft have been occupied as a ftrong hold from the 
 earlieft, times, although hiftory does not record the different fortreffes 
 which have been conftrucled on it. 
 
 In the firft account of a fortrefs here, the rock is by Boetius called 
 the Hill of Agnes; whence fome have inferred that the town of Edin- 
 burgh did not at that time exift, or was not then of fufficient confe- 
 quence to give name to the fpot. It is alfo fuppofed that the Agnes 
 here mentioned was the faint of that name; and therefore that this 
 account does not carry the antiquity of the fortrefs farther back than 
 the chriftian asra. 
 
 Long after this, according to Fordun, this fortrefs was called the 
 Virgin's Caftle, from the daughters of the Pi&ifh kings and chiefs 
 being educated and kept here, as a place of fafety in thofe barbarous 
 times; others attribute this appellation to a nunnery faid to have been 
 
 vol. 1. B eftablifhed
 
 2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 eftablifhed here long before the foundation of Holyrood Abbey. From 
 its height it was alfo ftyled the Winged Caftle. 
 
 The firft hiftorical fact concerning this Caftle is found in Fordun; 
 who relates that, in the year 1093, it was befieged by Donald Bane, 
 brother to king Malcolm, affifted by the king of Norway. 
 
 In the year 1 174, king William I. of Scotland, furnamed the Lion, 
 being taken prifoner by the Englifh in the neighbourhood of Alnwick 
 his fubjecls purchafed his freedom by furrendcring the independency 
 of his kingdom. Many hoftages, and fome of the chief garrifons, 
 among the latter this Caftle, were delivered to king Henry II. as 
 pledges for the performance of this treaty; but on the marriage of 
 William with Ermengarde, coufin to the king of England, Edinburgh 
 Caftle was given back as a dower to that queen. Scotland was after- 
 wards reftored to its independency by Richard I. in confideration of 
 the payment of ten thoufand marks fterling. 
 
 Anno 1239 Alexander III. was betrothed to the daughter of king 
 Henry III. of England, and the young queen had this Caftle affigned 
 for her refidence. But it appears that (he was by no means fatisfied 
 with her lot, but complained that fhe was confined to the Caftle of 
 Edinburgh, a fad and folitary place without verdure; and that fhe was 
 excluded from all conjugal intercourfe with her hufband, who had by 
 this time completed his fourteenth year. 
 
 During the conteft for the crown between Bruce and Baliol, this 
 Caftle was, A. D. 1 296, befieged and taken by the Englifh, and re- 
 mained in their hands near twenty years; but was, in 1313, recovered 
 by Sir Thomas Randolph, Earl of Murray; when king Robert caufed 
 it, and the other fortreffes recovered from the Englifh, to be demolifhed, 
 that they might not again be occupied by them in cafe of future in- 
 curfions. It was in ruins in the year 1336, when it ferved for the re- 
 treat of part of the Count of Namure's forces, defeated by the Earl of 
 Murray, who held it but one day. King Edward III. on his return 
 from Perth, in his way to England, vifited Edinburgh, and gave 
 orders for the rebuilding of this Caftle, in which he placed a ftrong 
 garrifon; it was neverthelefs, in 1341, furprifed by William Douglas, 
 who, for that purpofe, made ufe of the following ftratagem: Douglas, 
 with three other gentlemen, waited on the governor. One of 
 
 them,
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 3 
 
 of them, pretending to be an Englifh merchant, informed him he 
 had for fale, on board a veftel juft then arrived in the Forth, a cargo 
 of wine, ftrong-beer, and bifcuit exquifitely fpiced; at the fame 
 time producing, as a fample, a bottle of wine, and another of beer. 
 The governor, tafting and approving of them, agreed for the pur- 
 chafe of the whole, which the feigned captain requefted he might de- 
 liver very early the next morning, in order to avoid interruption from 
 the Scots. He came accordingly at the time appointed, attended by 
 a dozen armed followers difguifed in the habits of failors; and the 
 gates being opened for their reception, they contrived juft in the en- 
 trance to overturn a carriage, in which the provifions were fuppofed 
 to be loaded, thereby preventing them from being fuddenly fhut. 
 They then killed the porter and fentries; and blowing a horn as a 
 fignal, Douglas, who with a band of armed men had laid concealed 
 near the Caftle, ruined in and joined their companions. A fharp 
 conflict enfued, in which moft of the garrifon being flain, the Caftle 
 was recovered for the Scots, who about the fame time hadalfo driven 
 the Englifh entirely out of Scotland. 
 
 During the reign of John, earl of Carrick, who aiTumed the name 
 and title of King Robert II. from a fuperftitious notion that the name 
 of John was unfortunate for monarchs, the burgeftes of Edinburgh 
 had the lingular privilege conferred on them by that king, of build- 
 ing houfes for themfelves within the caftle, and o( free accefs to the 
 lame without paying any fees to the conftable, and fubject to no other 
 limitation than that they fhould be perfons of good fame. For 
 what fervice or confideration this indulgence was granted, does not. 
 appear. 
 
 The Caftle of Edinburgh has, at different times, ferved both for 
 the refidence of the kings and queens of Scotland, as well as for their 
 prifon ; feveral of the great barons having pofTelTed themfelves of 
 the perfons of their fovereigns, in order to give a fanclion to their 
 ambitious intrigues. Thus James II. in 1438 was held here in a fort 
 of honourable durance by Sir William Crichton, the Chancellor; 
 till, by a ftratagem contrived by his mother, he was conveyed hence 
 early in the morning in a trunk. But he did not long enjoy his en- 
 largement ; for he was taken by a band of armed men whilft hunt- 
 ing in the woods near Stirling, and re-conveyed to this Caftle. 
 
 James
 
 4 EDINBURGHSHIRE 
 
 James III. was alfo confined there by his fubjects nine months; till 
 releafed A.D. 1482, by the duke of Albany, aflifted by the citizens of 
 Edinburgh, who furprifed the Caitle. 
 
 During the troubles under the reign of queen Mary, this fortrefs 
 was held for her by Kirkaldy, who defended it with great gallantry 
 againft the regent, aflifted by an Englifh army commanded by Sir 
 William Drury. But a great part of the fortifications being demoliih- 
 ed by five batteries, confiding of thirty-one guns, eredted againft it, 
 the Spur or Block-houfe on the eaft being taken by aflault, the well 
 choaked up with rubbifh, and every other fupply of water cut off, it 
 furrendered, May 29, 1573, after a fiege of thirty-three days. The 
 Englifh general, in the name of his royal miftrefs, promifed favour- 
 able treatment to the governor; he was neverthelefs delivered up to 
 the regent, who bafely caufed him to be hanged. The caftle having, 
 as is here faid, fullered confiderable damage by the fiege, the regent 
 caufed it to be thoroughly repaired. 
 
 A. D. 1577, after Morton had refigned the government into the 
 hands of the young king, his brother, then governor of this Caftle, 
 refufed to deliver it up, and endeavoured to victual it for a fiege ; but 
 being oppoicd by the citizens, he, on obtaining a pardon, furrendered 
 it. In 1650 it fuftained a fiege of above two months, againft the par- 
 liamentary army commanded by Cromwell, and at laft furrendered 
 on honourable terms. 
 
 At the revolution this Caftle was long held for king James, by the 
 duke of Gordon, with a weak and ill-provided garrifon. The parti- 
 culars of that fiege, from a manufcript in the library, of Thomas 
 Aftle, Efq. is here given at large. It is fcarcely neceflary to obferve, 
 
 that the writer was a zealous advocate for king James.* 
 In_ 
 
 * AN ACCOUNT OF THE SIEGE OF THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH, ANNO l689- 
 
 THE prince of Orange began to land his troops in England in the beginning of November, 
 1088 ; and, before the middle of December, had pofleffed himfelf of many places of flrength in 
 (hat kingdom, and (which his majefty reckoned a much fnrer defence) of the hearts of a great 
 part of his fubje&s. The King, foreleeing that the practices which brought things to fuch a pofture 
 would not reft there, thought himfelf obliged to retire; and accordingly, after he had left fome 
 mtlrucYions concerning the management of affairs, did withdraw himfelf. Upon the King's firft 
 retirement from Whitehall, the Engliffi affairs feemed to be in a ftate of depraved nature ;'for not 
 
 only
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 5 
 
 In the rebellion of 171 5, the rebels made an unfuccefsful attempt 
 
 to furprife this Caftle; and in that of the year 1745, notwithstanding 
 
 the rebels were mailers of the town of Edinburgh, they did not ven- 
 
 o'nly monarchy, but all law and order to be dead ; and the rabble became executors in trufl for his 
 highnefs the Prince of Orange. However, under this auSpicious government, the nobility at that 
 time in and about London, witli the mayor and aldermen thereof, being convened, had the low i 
 of London (the magazine of England), with the crown and other relies of royalty, delivered ii 
 their hands, upon the firtt fummons: and all the other forts in England, that had not before de- 
 clared for the Prince of Orange, inglorioufly fubmitted without a blow : to that, when he came to 
 St. James's, his confutations might be rather how to keep than take garrifons : and then peaci ably 
 ended the turbulent reign of the Englifli gentlemen rabbility, as they were pleafed to term 
 themfelves. 
 
 A» for this kingdom, not only the rabble, but many perfons of quality and intereft, exactly 
 followed the Englifli example ; and there wanted little to complete the parallel, when the liege 
 commenced, but the furrender of Edinburgh Caftle ; for the Viscount of Dundee had not then got 
 together any body of forces for his Majefiy's ft rvice. 
 
 Nov. 1688 Now this being the pollure of affairs in thefe kingdoms in general, the next tiling 
 to beconfidered is the particular ftate of this garrifon in that juncture : and, 
 
 I. As to the (lores — the council had ordered three months provisions for one hund:ed and twenty 
 men (betides two hundred bolls meal and one hundred bolls malt then in garrilon). But, a; 
 affairs were managed, we had not above one fifth part of the bifcuit, and not a t\\ entieth part of 
 the beer allotted us. 
 
 II. For ammunition — although this garrifon hath been always reckoned the magazine of Scot- 
 land, and was plentifully provided, yet the privy council thought fit to order the transportation of 
 all arms and ammunition to the Caftle of Stirling , except fo much as was judged necdiary for its 
 defence three months; and, befides this, many arms were embezzltd by a private hand. We 
 had but feven teen bombs left us- the reft being carried to Stirling, and afterwards employed 
 againft usduring the Siege. All this was done in the abfence of our governor tiie Duke of Gordon 
 who was then upon the road from London . and Lieutenant-Colonel Winram, the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, very much oppofed it : but all proved ineftectu). 
 
 Dec. 3. As to the men — there had been forty Soldiers orderrd to be added to the garrifon, to 
 make up in all one hundred and Sixty ; but they were afterwards withdrawn, to m.ike inferior 
 officers to the trained bands : and for a great part of thole that remained, they foou began (in- 
 fluenced by the evil genius of the times) to learn the caballing trade. And 3 defign was dhco- 
 vered ta feize the Governor, and deliver up the garrilon ; but he took eSTcfiual care to prevent its 
 execution, without punitliing one man: So, that failii g, many were next prevailed with to defer t. 
 However, the Duke uied all diligence to keep the number entire; and had alto ordered Francis 
 Gairdne, of Midstrath, to levy forty-five men in the North, and have them in rcadineft for a re- 
 cruit upon occafion. Yet fuch was the Governor's care to remove all fulptcion tiiat might aril": 
 from his conduct, in this affair, that, when Mr. Gairdne brought the forty five men to I/eith, his 
 Grace ordered him to fend them home again. 
 
 Vgl. I C Dec. u
 
 6 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 ture to attack the Caftle ; nor could they even cut off the communi- 
 cation. 
 
 Tins View, which reprefents the S. E. afpect of the Caftle, was 
 drawn c\. D. 1788. 
 
 Die 11. Bat by this time the noife of plots was' fpread abroad with fuch art and application 
 (for ends ben known to the promoter-) , that it bred an univerfal phrenzie in (he heads of the incon- 
 ftant and unruly mob. They could difcem nothing truly; but implicitly believed, and readily 
 afted, as they were taught: and thus (amongft other abfimlitics) when their teachers had rcpre- 
 fenled to them a prodigious number of Irifh incendiaries and cut-throats actually burning and 
 butcherin" without dillinSion of age or fex, and brought them the length of Dumfries, it was 
 an eafv matter for them to affign our Governor and garrifon a part in the plot, namely, the 
 burning the city of Edinburgh : and though a very ihort time clearly difcovered the impofture 
 of the Irifh project, yet they endeavoured with great diligence to keep up the repute of their 
 impudent forgeries, concerning his Grace and the garrifon, though without great fuccefs ; for 
 many of the reprcfentatives of the good town declared to the privy council their fatisfaflion in 
 both, and would not fign any addrefs againft: him. And here it is very remarkable, that, not- 
 withftanding the clamour againft Popery, there was not at any time above the tenth man of that 
 perfuafion among our foldiers, nor one Popith prieft, during the fiege ; whereas thoufands of 
 thofe that the Prince of Orange brought over, out of a wonderful care of the proteftant intereft, 
 would not have beenqueftioned by a Spanifli inquifition. However, 
 
 About the middle of December, fome privy counfellors having come to the Governor, and 
 required him to deliver up the Caftle into the hands of the privy council, his Grace in the firft 
 place called for their commiffion on this errand : and they having none in writing, he told them, 
 that they mull excufe him to keep that pod entrufted to him, until fome better warrant for leaving 
 it were allowed him ; and lb, after his Grace had treated them with much civility, they returned 
 with a denial. After this, there were fome propofals made by order of council for his exonera- 
 tion in quitting his command of the Caftle, but to nopurpofe; for his Grace ftill demonflrated 
 the defett of their authority to remove him, or warrant his fo doing. 
 
 The Governor likewife received a letter from the Prince of Orange, commanding him to 
 remove from the garrifon ; to which he returned an anfwer, and by fair means put off a clofe 
 fie^e as long as pofiible ; and in the mean time gave his final anfwer to the privy council — That 
 he was ambitious of keeping the Caftle; but thought himlelf obliged in confeience and honour to 
 be faithful to the trull repofed in him by the King ; and knew no other way at prefent to exoner 
 himfelf of it but his Majefty's commands, by whole immediate commiffion he acted, and who in 
 iuftice might require a flrict account of his procedure. 
 
 InIarch 12, 16SS-S9. The day appoint; d for the meeting of the convention d-awing nigh, and 
 his Grace being certainly informed that they would fit, and not knowing what new practices 
 might be fet on foot, hecaufed, under an oath, to all in garrifon to be faithful to the Proteftant 
 religion, as then established by law ; to obey their luperior officers upon the place; and to disco* 
 ver any treacherv againft the garrifon or officers that ffiould come to their knowledge. About ten 
 cr twelve refufed to fwear, and were immediately turned out. 
 
 Makch 14. This day the convention of eftates met, and the Earls of Lothian and Tweeddale 
 came to the garrifon, and required the Duke to deliver up the Caftle, upon an aft of the conven- 
 tion, to exoner his Grace, and other Papifts there, as to all bygones. 
 
 The
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 7 
 
 N. W. VIEW of EDINBURGH CASTLE. 
 
 J7J.AVING, in the former plate, given a general account of the moft 
 remarkable events that have happened to and in this Caftle, I fhall 
 here tranferibe the defcription of it as given by Mr. Alexander Kin- 
 caid, in his Hiftory of the City of Edinburgh, publifhed 1787. 
 
 The Duke defirtd the mefiage might be put in writing, and time allowed to advife; which 
 being denied, 
 
 His Grace fent the following anfwer to the convention : 
 
 March 15. I am willing to comply with the commiffion I received by the Earls of Lothian 
 and Tweedd.ile, as to my removal from the Caftle of Edinburgh : though I cannot do it as a 
 Papift, that being dangerous, and I not convi&ed ; for I hope being in employment without 
 taking the teft (contrary to an aft of parliament), is no conviction of popery. I received, not 
 long ago, a letter from the then Prince of Orange, defiring that I would leave the Caftle of 
 Edinburgh ; which I promifed to do, but expected certain reafonable time to be firft granted to 
 my felt and garrifon. I hope I have not merited fo ill of my country, as that I may not be trufted 
 with die Caftle, until a return come to this letter, which I expett every hour. But if that can- 
 not be granted, barely on my promiling not to moleft or harm any perfon, efpecially thole of this 
 illuftrious afiembly, I proffer hoftages, or bail to the value of 20,0001. fterling, for my peaceable 
 deportment : otherwife I exped, before my removal, 
 
 I. A general indemnity for my (elf and friends, both Proteftant and Papifi, as alfo abfolute fe- 
 curity for our lives and fortunes in time coming; with affurance that the fame ihall be ratified 
 in the next enfuing parliament. 
 
 II. A feeurity for all Protellants of the garrifon, who incline to flay in it, to continue in their 
 employments ; and for thofe who fhall go out with me, either Protellants or Papists, to go beyond 
 feas, or remain within the kingdom, as our occafion fhall lead us. 
 
 III. That the garrifon be completely paid off all bygone arrears, and have liberty to difpofe of 
 their goods within the Castle as they pleafe. 
 
 To which the Duke had this return : 
 
 The meeting of the estates having considered the paper given in, and fubferibed by the Duke 
 of Gordon, in anfwer to their order, do declare — It is not the mind of this meeting, that the Duke 
 hi-, officiating as Governor of the Caftle, or of any other employment, or his quitting of his com- 
 mand at this time, (hall import any acknowledgment or conviftion againft him, or thofe under 
 him, of his or their being Papifls. 
 
 It is also refolved, that the meeting of the eftatcs will not allow the Duke his keeping the 
 government of the Caftle, either upon promife, bail, or hoftages, for his peaceable deportment, 
 until he get a return of the letter written by him to the then Frince of Orange. 
 
 It is likewife refolved, that the indemnity offered by the meeting of eftates, (hall only extend 
 to thofe belonging to the garrifon, and their fervants, either Protellants or Papifts ; and that the 
 perfons who are to have the benefit of the laid indemnity (hall be exprefsly named, if the Duke 
 defire it ; and that the indemnity to be granted by this meeting (hall contain a claufe, that it 
 shall be ratified in the next parliament. 
 
 As
 
 8 E D I N B U R G H S H I R E. 
 
 Before the invention of artillery, this fortification might well ieem 
 to have been impregnable. It ftands on the weftern extremity of the 
 ridge on which the old town is iituated, and terminates upon the fouth 
 in an inaccefilble rock, the top of which declines a little to the north. 
 
 As to the laft article of the paj.-r, That thofe of the garrifon who pleafe to retire with the 
 Duke, fliall have liberty either to go out of the kingdom or ftay in it, as they think fit ; and (hall 
 have liberty to difpofe of their goods, and hare iafe conduct granted to them for that etledi, the 
 fame being defired before the diffululion of the meeting of the eftates; but that they may not 
 take out with them any arms, ammunition, or ftore, but what they fliall inftruct properly to be- 
 long to them. And, 
 
 Lastly, it is agreed, that the officers and foldiers of the garrifon fliall have payment of their 
 bygone arrears; but refufe to give them aflurance of their being continued in employment. 
 
 It had been moved, and agreed to in the convention, that the Duke fliould have fafe conduft 
 to come there in perfon, but he went not; and refufed to give up the Callle upon the terms 
 offered ; however, he fent a letter to the Vifcount of Dundee to be communicated to the con 
 vention, in which he condefcended to refign his command to the Earl of Airly, his father-in-law ; 
 but the overture was rejected. 
 
 His Grace (having now caufed flmt up the Caftle gales) received a formal fummons by two 
 heralds, two purfevants, and two trumpets, that he, and other Papifts in garrifon, remove 
 themfelves immediately therefiom, on pain of treafon. And there was a proclamation published, 
 dilch irging the lieges to converfe with, allill, or abet the Duke, or any under his command, that 
 thould remain in garrifon after publication thereof, whether Papifts or Froteftants ; and promiling 
 a reward of fix months pay, with an indemnity to the Froteftants in garrifon, on coudition they 
 fecured the Callle, and difpoffeffed the Duke and other Papifts thereof. His Grace gave the 
 heralds fome guineas to drink the King's health, and all the honeft men's in the Convention ; 
 2nd told them, by way of advice, that they fliould not proclaim the King's fervants traitors to 
 the efiatcs with his Majefty's coats on their backs ; at leafl they ought to turn them upon fuch 
 frolics. 
 
 After thefe mtlTengers were gone, his Grace called the garrifon together, and caufed major 
 Wincefter, his eniign, publicly to read the fummons; and then told them, that they faw the 
 danger they were to run; but, for his own part, he would not be threatened out of his duty to 
 God and his prince, and was refolved to keep the place for his Majelly's ftrvice ; that thofe who 
 were not willing to venture themfelves with him, might go where they pleafed, and have their 
 arrears. 
 
 Wherfuton John Achmoutie, lieutenant of the caAlf ; Arthur Forbes, matter-gunner, with 
 the two under gunners; John Scott, the chirurgeon ; Creichton and Home, home fergeants; 
 two corporals, two drummers, and between fixty and feventy private centinels, left his Grace, 
 notwithstanding the oath they had a little before taken, and had their full arrears immediately 
 paid them. And now we had no furgeon, gunner, or carpenter, and hardly feventy centinels 
 to do duty; which was but (lender encouragement to undertake the defence of a fingle Caftle 
 againft the force of two kingdoms. 
 
 And then the Callle was blocked up by the trained bands of the city. 
 
 This da. the Duke received a letter from the Earl of Tyrconnell, Lord-lieutenant of Ireland, 
 promifing renef within fix weeks at further!. 
 
 DuRine
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 9 
 
 weft ; and upon the top of it the line wall is built. Before the draw- 
 bridge is a row of pallifadoes that form an angle ; from the point of 
 which, to the buildings of the city, is a fpace about 350 feet in length, 
 and 300 broad on the fummit, called the Caftle Hill, where the inha- 
 
 During thefe tranfattions, John Gordon of Edintere (a volunteer in garrifon during the fiege) 
 was frequently employed by the Duke to advertife friends of our circumftances ; and there were 
 now come into us Francis Gairdne, ofMidftratb; Capt. Robert Dunbar, the only experienced 
 gunner we had ; John Innes, Henry Gordon, and Andrew Rofs, gentlemen, and fome others. 
 
 The garrifon formerly confified of three fquades, viz. the governor's, the lieutenant's, and the 
 enfign's; but now the Duke caft them in two divifions: one was commanded by the enfign ; aDd 
 the other by Mr. Gairdne, of Midftratb, under his Grace. The principal pons were, the high 
 guard-houfe, the low guard-houfe, and the fally-port. One entire fquade mounted each night, 
 confuting of the captain of the guard, two ferjeants, two corporals, and about forty foldiers. We 
 had eight centinel pofts in the day-time, and feventeen by night. 
 
 March 16. His Grace fent letter to the Earl of Tweeddale, defiring him to call at the 
 garrifon, and told him, that what he had to communicate fhould not be difagreeable; buthe came 
 not. 
 
 Captain Lauder, commander of the town guards, having liberty to correfpond with the Duke, 
 his Grace fent a letter by him to the magistrates of Edinburgh, intimating his inclination to con- 
 tinue a good underftanding with the town. 
 
 March 17 '. One of our centinels deferted. 
 
 March 18. The Vifcount of Dundee, having with others deferted the convention, had this 
 day a private conference with the Duke at the poftern gate of the caftle ; and afterwards, at the 
 head cf about forty horfe, waited without the town, eaftward of the caftle, for fome hours; and 
 in the evening marched weftward. 
 
 The fame day, fome thoufands of the Cameronian party, lately come to Edinburgh to take 
 care of the convention, drew up in the city. 
 
 A parley w as beat for fending a midwife to a woman in labour, and granted. 
 
 John Gordon, having been out to friends, returned this day, and brought in with him by 
 the fally port, Mr. M'Donald, and two gentlemen of the name of Grant. We had an account 
 that the King was arrived in Ireland, and dilcharged all our cannon thrice. 
 
 March 19. The Duke having procured fafe conduct for our enfign, fent him out this day 
 with the following inftrudtions. 
 
 I. You are to advise with Sir James Grant and Mr. Thomas Gordon, my ordinary counfellor 
 at law, and any other lawyer they fliall think fit to call, how the officers and others in garrifon 
 can be fecured in law, as to their lives and fortunes. 
 
 II. It being altogether dangerous for me and my garrifon to remove out of the Caftle, whilft 
 the town is fo crowded with vaft numbers of ftrangers, who have already taken poneflion of pofts 
 formerly guarded by the town of Edinburgh, I defire the pofts may be returned to the town, and 
 the ftrangrrs removed. 
 
 III. Since fo much averfion was exprefled againft fome of the Highland clans being com- 
 prehended within the number of my friends, I am content to reftrid it to twenty Proteflants and 
 twenty Papifls, who are or have been in public employment ; and this, befiJes thofe within the 
 garrifon. 
 
 vol.. 1. D IV
 
 io EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 bitants frequently refort for the benefit of the free air. The hill com- 
 mands a moft delightful profpecl of the river Forth and fhores of Fife, 
 as far down as Fifenefs; the Calton Hill upon the eaft; Portland Hills 
 upon the fouth and fouth-weft : only the Caftle obftrudts the weft, as 
 
 IV. Since he was abfolutely refufed, that fuch Protectants as might incline to flay in the 
 Caftle, fliould be fecured in their employments, I defire that fuch of them as are ftill here, fhall 
 have fix months pay, befides what fhall be due to them, for defraying their charges to any place, 
 off or within the kingdom, whither their occafions fhall lead them. 
 
 V. That after the place is given up, the Lieutenant-governor may have the ufe of his lodgings 
 for eight or ten days, for clearing accounts with the garrifon ; and that my fervants and others 
 may have a competent time for difpatching affairs within the Caftle. 
 
 VI. That the officers and others may have liberty for themfelves and fervants to carry their 
 fvvords within the town, and make ufc of horfes and ordinary travelling arms in the country ; and, 
 fo long as I fhall flay within the kingdom, that they may have their abode in any place of it, 
 according to their intereft and convenience. 
 
 VII. That my officers and foldiers may have the difpofal of the ftores, or a competent gra- 
 tuity on that head. 
 
 VIH. That I may have a pafs to wait on his Majefty any time within three months, to give 
 him reafon for putting this place into the Eflates hands, and to return fafely. 
 
 IX. That I have a guard of forty horfe, of my own chufing, to attend me home; and that I 
 may keep them together while I am in the kingdom : the like being granted to my grandfather 
 at the pacification of 1645 or 1646. This, with the firft and lnft articles of my former propofi- 
 tions, which were granted. The enfign returned with this anfwer : 
 
 March UJ. The meeting of the eftates having confidered the inflruflions given in and fub- 
 fcribed by the Duke of Gordon to Enfign Wincefter, annent the furrender of the Caftle of Edin- 
 burgh, they do agree to the following articles. 
 
 I. That the duke's officiating in the government of the Caftle of Edinburgh, or in any other 
 employment, or his quitting of his command at this time, fhall not import any acknowledge- 
 ment or convidion againft him, or any perfon under his command, of their being Papifts ; but 
 that the Duke, and thofe perfons that are at prefent in the garrifon with him, and their fervants, 
 as well Papifts as Proteftants, fhall have a full indemnity from the Eflates for any thing done by 
 them at any time againft the laws of the kingdom : and that the fame indemnity fhall contain 
 the names of ilk ane of the faid perfons, if they defire the fame; and a claufe, that it fliall 
 be ratified in the next parliament. 
 
 II. The Eftates do allow that Mr. Wincefter do confult Sir James Grant and Mr. Thomas 
 Gordon, or any other lawyers they fliall pleafe to call, annent the fecurity to be given to the Duke 
 and his officers, foldiers, and others within the garrifon, as to their lives and fortunes; the fame 
 being always done in prefence of one of the members of the meeting. 
 
 III. That the Duke and thofe of the garrifon that fhall pleafe to retire with him, fhall have 
 full liberty to go out of the kingdom, or to flay in it: and to difpofe of their goods, which they 
 fhall inftrucl to belong to themfelves, not being arms or ammunition, as they fhall think fit ; and 
 they {hall have fafe conduft for that effea, the fame being defired before the diflblution of the 
 meeting of the eftates.
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. n 
 
 the town itfelf docs the view towards all the points between eaft and 
 fouth-eaft. 
 
 The fpace enclofed by the fortification is of an oval form, and mea- 
 sures from the north weft angle, to the angle formed by the palifa- 
 
 IV. That all the officers and foldiers of the garrifon fliall have punctual payment of their bygone 
 arrears ; and thr Lieutenant-Governor iliall have a fecure place with a guard appointed for him to 
 ftay in the town for right d.iys after the furrender, for clearing accounts with the garrifonj and 
 
 that the Duke's fervants, not exceeding three at a time, fliall be allowed the liberty to go up to the 
 Cattle and return as they pleafe, for the faid fpace of eight days, for carrying away their goods 
 and diipJtcl.lng their affairs in the Cattle. 
 
 V. That the Duke, and thole who are piefently with him in thegarrifon, fliall be allowed, dur- 
 ing their abode in the town of Edinburgh, to carry thtir fwords, and to keep their horfes and 
 ordinary arms, as any of the reft of the lieges are allowed to do by law. 
 
 VI. That the Duke Iliall have the guard of forty horfemen, to be named and commanded as 
 the Eitates fliall be pleafed to order; who fhall be maintained upon the public charge, and fliall 
 have orders to carry the Duke home to the place of his ordinary refidence in the country, and 
 immediately to return ; the Duke finding caution, that the faid guard (hall not be any way hin- 
 dered or molefted in their leturn. 
 
 VII. The Eftates do agree to give a gratification to the officers and foldiers in the gar- 
 rifon, according to the condition they fhall find the ftores in, at the time of furrendering the 
 Caflle. 
 
 The Cameronians had now blocked up the Caflle, and begun a fmall entrenchment in wi- 
 dow Livingston's yard, weftward, very near the Caflle ; and taken up for pofts the Weigh-houfe, 
 the Weft Port, and St. Cuthbert's Church. 
 
 Tuis night another of our men deferted. 
 
 March 21. The Enfign (having fafe conduct) was this day again fent to manage the treaty 
 with the convention; and brought back an account, that they agreed that the forty horfe attend 
 his Grace for fourteen days, to go home, and the Duke to name them, including his fervants ; but 
 that they difperfe within twenty-four hours after his home-going. That they meet him on the 
 other fide of the Brunt Island Ferry, whither the Eftates would condudt him. That they (hall 
 not join the # Lord Dundee, &c. ; and the Duke to find furety for that eftecL That at the furren- 
 der of the Cattle, the avenues thereof be guarded with the town guards, together with fuch of 
 the Earl of Levin's regiment as he fliall appoint. That Gordon's of Auchintowle and Glafturin 
 be indemnified for acting in public employments; and five priefls, now in prison, to be u3med by 
 the Duke, to have paflcs, they finding caution to remove out of the kingdom within twenty 
 days. That the commiflionate officers carry their ordinary fire-arms, befides their fwords; and 
 the foldiers to be paid for their fire-arms by Eitates, &c. 
 
 March 22. The Duke returned for aufwer, that he would not deliver up the Caflle upon 
 the terms offered him; and fent the following letter directed to Duke Hamilton, to be commu- 
 nicated to the Eftates; which was never anfwered. 
 
 May it pleafe your Grace, 
 
 The lingular proofs your Grace and the Eitates have been pleafed to give me of your 
 kindnefs, would heighten, if poflible, the concern I Jiave always bad for the good of my 
 
 country
 
 ia EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 does upon the outfide of the draw-bridge, 920 feet; but the breadth., 
 from north to fouth, is only 475 feet. 
 
 At the entrance to the caftle, you pafs the draw bridge, then the 
 outer gate ; within which, upon the left hand, is a guard-houfe, 
 
 country and countrymen: permit me then mod humbly to lay before your Grace, and the Eftates, 
 the imminent danger to which this poorkingdom is expofed, to become very fliurtly the theatre of 
 the mod bloody and irreconcilable war that has been in Europe this age, if not prevented by ex- 
 traordinary prudence. Permit me likewife to reprefent, that of all the ancient nobility and gentry 
 of which this illuftrious aflembly is compofed, perhaps there is not one whofe felf or predeceffors 
 has not received reiterated marks of his Majefty's or anceftors bounties and clemency; fhouldwe 
 then, for the misfortunes of a four years reign, forget the benefits we have received from one 
 hundred and ten kings and queens? For my own part, it is known to feveral of the Eftates, and 
 particularly to your Grace, the fevere ufage I have had within thefe three years from the court ; 
 yet I would lay down my life to procure a good understanding between his Majefly and his fub- 
 je£ts, as I moft fincerely and affectionately offer my endeavours for procuring it: and, if the 
 Eftates think fit, I fhall wait on his Majefty, who is now in Ireland. I hope, as all Scotland will 
 moft dutifully affert the juft prer»gatives of the crown, the King will be pleaftd to fettle the pro- 
 perty, religion, and liberties of the fubjecl:, on fuch fure foundations, that they ihall never be 
 fhaken by the avarice and ambition of evil minifters. May it pleafe your Grace, I thought my- 
 felf bound in confeience to reprefent to you and the Eftates what this paper contains ; and it is 
 with much refpeft that I am, &c. 
 
 About this time the Cameronians had broken ground a little fouthward of their other 
 trench. 
 
 We beat a parley ; and a ceffation for fome time was agreed to, which gave an opportunity to 
 our men to caft up a work at the Sally Port, to fecure.them from the enemy's fmall fhot, to which 
 they had been greatly expofed. 
 
 March 25. The Cameronians were relieved by Major General M'Kay's forces fent from 
 England (being three regiments, twelve companies each). Thofe Cameronians had the thanks 
 of the Eftates ; and an act paffed acknowledging their good and feafonable fervice. During their 
 flay we had been alarmed by fome of their men's appearing upon the rock at the fally port, 
 which occaftoned our firft firing upon them. 
 
 John Gordon having been fent out of the garrifon to bring in a furgeon and carpenter {for 
 as yet we had neither) one Thomas, an Englifh furgeon, did undertake ; but approaching the 
 Caftle, in order to be received at the fally port, his courage failed him, and fo he returned back 
 to the town. 
 
 March 29. John Gordon returned to the garrifon, and brought in a brewer with him, and 
 three Iiilhmen. As we perceived them coming, we fired warmly upon the befiegers' guards at 
 the weft port, and freed them from that pott. 
 
 March 30. His grace fent feven men, under Mr. Gairdne's command, publicly out at the 
 fally port, about noon, who forced a party of the befiegers from their poft in the trenches; and 
 came fafc back, with fome loads of ftraw. 
 
 A iparley was beat to fend in fome packs of cards, but denied, 
 
 Thet
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 13 
 
 Going a little further, you come to a fecond gate- way, ftrongly built ; 
 when this gate was fliut, an iron portcullis was let down behind the 
 wooden gate. Upon the top, it was formerly finifhed like a tower, 
 with embrafures ; but lately built up, and turned into a workhoufe 
 
 They now begnn to [Jay upon us with bombs they had brought from Stirling Caftle, but we 
 received no great damage by them. 
 
 April 3. Mr. John Macpherfou and fome others came in to us. 
 
 This day perceiving fome of the beliegers about the old tower of coats, we fired feveral great 
 guns that way, which did execution. 
 
 Sir George Lockhart, Lord Prcfident of the Seflion, having been barbaroufly aflaffinated on 
 Eafler Sunday, by one Checily, of Dairy, a parley was this day beat by the beliegers, for a cefla- 
 tion during his interment in the Grey Friars Church, and readily granted. 
 
 April 6. This day we had an account that John Gordon (who had been fent out with let- 
 ters) was made prifoner, but that he had dropt the letters he had in his cuftody, and fo they kll 
 not into the enemy's hands. 
 
 His Grace caufed cut a part of the bridge at the entry to the garrifon. 
 
 The befiegers had now, with the lofs of men, finifhed a battery at the caftle of collops, South 
 of the garrifon, and planted two cannon (eighteen pounders), but in a few hours they were 
 both difmounted. They had likewife carried the trench (which the Cameronians began) a 
 great length towards the North. Captain Dunbar fired two of our bombs upon their battery, 
 ■but without fuccefs. 
 
 April 11. A carpenter having undertaken to ferve in the garrifon, this day we perceived 
 him coming with five Iriflimen, and put ourfelves in a poflure to fecure them, in cafe any of 
 the befiegers appeared; but the carpenter, treacheroufly or timoroufly, went back, and deli- 
 vered himfelf prifoner, discovering thofe who engaged him : upon which fome were fecured, and 
 others fled. 
 
 The fame day William Scott came into the garrifon : he had brought the befiegers advanced 
 ccntinel from his pofi along the Cattle-Hill with him, upon pretence of fpeaking to a gentleman 
 in the Cattle about prefling bufinefs, and that he was to return immediately. When they came 
 to the bridge before the gate, Mr. Scott called for the enfign, and before they had exchanged 
 many words he bid the centinel farewell, and we received him in at the gate, and called to the 
 centinel to follow him; but the poor fellow being drunk, went to his poft again, where he was 
 fcized, and fo came in for an unlucky fhare of the folemnity ; 
 
 For this day the Convention proclaimed the Prince of Orange King of Scotland, &c. 
 
 April 13. And on Saturday thereafter, this centinel, being condemned by a council of war. 
 was hanged in the Links of Leith. 
 
 Some days after, John Gordon obtained his liberty, there being no proof againft him, and re- 
 turned to the garrifon with three Irimmen and Mr. Smith (the Duke's Surgeon), to the great com- 
 fort of all therein; for though Providence had hitherto protected our men from wounds, they 
 did not fancy themfelvcs invulnerable; and many of them had fickened by this time. 
 
 The paflage by the fally port, that we had formerly made ufe of for fending out and receiving 
 
 intelligence, being now clofely blocked up by the befiegers, we lhut up the entry, and filled it 
 
 with earth ; and we had by this time dil'covered a new paffage, more fafe, from the gate of the 
 
 Caflle over the North Loch. When any perfon was to come in to us (of which we 
 
 vol. i. E generally
 
 i 4 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 for the maftcr carpenter. Within this gate, upon the left, is a fpace, 
 where that remarkable piece of artillery lay, called Mons Megg, caft 
 at Mons in Flanders; but was burft at the fiege of Roxburgh, and the 
 piece was never ufed afterwards. Not many years ago it was carried 
 
 generally got exact information, fume time before, by a fign in a window of the city from 
 Mrs. Ann Smith, grandchild to Dr. Atkins, late Lord Bifhop of Galloway), or went out, we 
 lent a party of fix men, commanded by a gentleman, to conduct them over the Loch : and when 
 got in fafc to the garrifon, we gave the fignal to Mrs. Smith, by firing a mufket off" the half- 
 moon. 
 
 April 2/. This day his Grace fent out Henry Gordon for intelligence. 
 
 April 2y. He returned with Lieutenant James Hay and John Marky, and one Launders, an 
 lrifhman: they told us that, by reafon of the darknefs of the night, they loft three of their com- 
 pany that defigncd to ferve in the garrifon. 
 
 Much about this time, Mr. Smith, our furgeon, difcovered a very convenient night-poft for a 
 centinel on the lop of Wallace Tower (a ruinous houfe, under the Caflie wall, northwards); and 
 Captain Dunbar railed a battery at the north end of the old powder magazine, from whence we 
 frequently difmounted their cannon. 
 
 The befiegers drained the North Loch, to divert the fprings from our wells, and fo deprive us 
 of water, but without effect. 
 
 May q. We fired fome great guns upon a houfe near their battery, having difcovertd foldiers 
 in it, and killed feveral of them. 
 
 This was the day they had appointed for a public thankfgiving ; but we could perceive no 
 great demonftrations of joy amongft them by bells or bonfires. 
 
 May 1 1. They began to caft up a battery north of the garrifon, at the Multraffea-hill. This 
 day William Urquhart got into the Caftle with letters to the Duke. 
 May 12. He was fent out again upon fome meflage. 
 
 May \6. Mr. Urquhart returned, and John Falconer came in with him. They brought along 
 with them a rope for mounting our cannon, which came \ery feafonably, fo ill was the garrifon 
 provided of neceffaries fur its defence : they brought the news that the French fleet had beat the 
 Englith at Bantry Bay; that the befiegers great bombs were arrived from England, and the fbells 
 weighed above one hundred pounds, and lay behind the town wall, near the weft corner: that 
 the Lord Dundee had feized the Lairds of Blair and Pollock, &c. with their horfes and arms, as 
 they were making their levies at St. Johnfton. That Sir James Grant, advocate (one of the 
 Duke's correfpondents) had been c.dled before the Convention, and was made ciofe prifoner, &c. 
 We now began to carry on an intrenchment, and plant fome cannon within the wall by the 
 fally port, in cafe of an aiiault : the befiegers had played conflantly upon that quarter, but with 
 little fnccefs, having rather defaced than ruined the fally tower. 
 
 May 17. The Duke canftd found our high well, and found it only ten foot water; and the 
 other well was dry. 
 
 May 18. This night Mr. Macpherfon and one of the Duke's footmen were fent out. 
 We now kept no men at the High Guard houfe, which had been hitherto our main guard ; for 
 all were potted at the fally port and low guard. 
 
 May 1C). Sunday, about ten at night, they began te fire upon the Caftle with their great bombs, 
 from a battery they had railed at the corner of the town wall, foutbward cf the garrifon, where 
 
 they
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 15 
 
 off to London, and lodged in the Tower. Faffing this a little, on 
 the left, is a ftair leading up to the fortification. At the half moon, 
 upon the right, is Argyle's battery ; and on the weft fide of it the ar- 
 tillery fheds. Going weftward 230 feet, we come to the Governor's 
 
 they had planted two mortar pieces, and sent us bombs in pairs. Bui all of them either fell fhort 
 of us at the Weft port (not without fome damage to the houtVs, which put the inhabitants in gre.v 
 confufion), or went over the C.iftle ; except one, which fplit upon the top of the Cafile wall, 
 near Mills-Mont, where we had a centinel, who brought us fome fplinters of it. Upon their 
 firing, we at firft, gave them feveral greal guns, pointed to their bomb batteries, but without fuc- 
 cefs ; the mortars Handing very low, and requiring no ports; fo that afterwards we fpared out 
 powder that way. 
 
 I cannot fay whofe work the befiegers were about, but they never failed to ply it hard on the 
 Lord's day : upon which one of our highlanders obferved, That, though he was apt to forget ths 
 days of the week, yet he well knew Sunday, by fome mifchtef or other, begun or hotly carried 
 on by our reformers. 
 
 His Grace ordered all in garrifon to remove their lodgings to vaults, and had taken himfelf to 
 one, where he could not have the benefit of a fire, unlefsit were brought out to the open court, 
 or he came into the brewhoufe, which Haying afide all ftate) he Sometimes did. 
 
 About this time his Grace fell very ill, and continued fo for fome da)s. Notwithstanding 
 whereof, this night when the bombs began to play, he came with Captain Dunbar, and others, 
 to the fally port, where lie difcourfed incognito over the wall with one of the befiegers centinels, 
 but could learn little from him. However, fome of our men would daily divert themfelves in 
 drolling the befiegers : and there were amnrgti them thofe that feemed to favoui the King's inte- 
 reft; and would often begin difcourfes to that purpofe, in Irilh, with fome of the highlanders, but 
 frequently were interrupted by their commanders. 
 
 May 20. About one this morning, when they had left off firing bombs, there fell much fnow, 
 which, notwithftanding the feafon of the year, lay moft part of the day yard deep in fome parts of 
 the garrifon. Thus nature feemed to fuffer at this unnatural bombarding of his Majefty's fort, 
 with his own bombs, and by his natural fubjecls too. 
 
 This day they fired no bombs by realon of the ftorm. 
 
 This night Mr. Macpherfon and the Duke's fervant returned. 
 
 May 21. About ten this evening they again fell to work with their bombs, and continued 
 till after twelve. They fired about fixteen. One of them ruined the flair of the church. Ano- 
 ther falling on the rock, at the back of the low guard-houfe, tumbled down amongft our men 
 upon duty; and one Duncan Grant, thinking the danger over, went to fee it, and was fo near 
 when it broke, that we judged it fplit between his legs, but without any other hurt than fpoiling 
 his hearing for 24 hours. After this our men became better acquainted with the bombs, and 
 rruld judge by their elevation whereabouts they would fall. Some of them fplit in the air, and 
 others were choaked in the earth, fix of which we diggrd for, and found whole. 
 
 The Duke appointed a centinel on the Hawke-hill, to give notice fo foon as he faw the mi r> 
 tar pieces fired, that every man might be upon his guard 
 
 May 22. Some of the befiegers from the Caftle-hill, and other advanced polls, as alfo out 
 
 c!
 
 16 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 houfe upon the right ; and, on turning to the fouth ioo feet, we 
 find the afcent pretty fteep. Upon the right is Hawk hill ; and, 
 upon the left a third gateway ; entering which, upon the left hand, 
 is the fhot-yard. Continuing ioo feet farther on, you come to the 
 
 of windows, having fired with fmall (hot upon the garrifon, and flightly wounded our furgeon 
 and Others, provoked tome in garrifon to fire at the befiegers within the town (contrary to the 
 Dukc*s exprefs command), killing a centinel at the Cattle-hill, and accidentally wounding fome 
 perfons not concerned. 
 
 We had by this time much timber work broken by the bombs; and a great many of our fol- 
 diers beiix* half naked, it fell out very feafonably to make fire. His Grace had caufed gather 
 the fplinters of the bombs in heaps, to return them upon the befiegers, in cafe of an alTault Our 
 wells were filled with water by the norm ; upon which his Grace made this reflection. That God 
 Almighty had fent us water, and the Prince of Orange fire and materials for our defence. 
 
 May 23. This morning a gunner's wife in garrifon falling in labour, the Duke caufed beat 
 a parley, to fend in a midwife to her, which was refufed. Bat the gentlemen authorifed to treat 
 propoftd to fend the woman out, to be taken care of. But this being fo nearly related to the 
 known jeft of one, who, finding himfelf too near a warm fire, propofed to remove the chimney, 
 we did not fufpeft them to be in earned. However, the poor woman was fafely brought to 
 
 bed. 
 
 The Duke having obferved great heaps of earth crofiingthe fired above the W'eigh-houfe, and 
 thrown up the night before, propofed at the parley to caufe remove them. The befiegers pre- 
 tended that it was done by the townfmen to fecure themfelves from our fliot. His grace demon- 
 ftrated, that any work there could not defend the town, though it were fix ftories high, but de- 
 clared he knew not of any firing towards the town ; and promifed that, upon removing that 
 pretended defence, there fliould be no ground of complaint thereafter on that head. Otherways 
 (not knowing their dtfignment) he would be obliged, in the neceflary defence of the garrifon, to 
 fire at any work now raifing within reach of his cannon ; fo that the town might fufter by their 
 lault againft his inclination. But fuch was their kindnefs to the good town, that they would not 
 condefcend to caufe demolifh it; nor permit the Town Major to fpeak with his grace, though 
 .ve faw him coming up the Caule-hill for that end. Yet, after they had gone and returned fe- 
 deral times, and nothing concluded on, we perceived people throwing it down, and there was no 
 further trouble about it. Whiltt the Duke and their officers were treating at the caftle-gate, the be- 
 lievers fired three bombs towards the lowguard; whereupon oneof the garrifon faid to thofe attend- 
 ing without, I think we are in greater danger by your faith than your works; alluding to the 
 work can up, then under debate, and the prefent bteach of parley. At this time they told the 
 Duke they had an engineer could throw an hundred bombs at once upon us ; whereupon his 
 Grace returned, That he fliould be very glad it were put in practice, for at that rate we fliould 
 foon be. rid of them. 
 
 This ni"ht they fired about twenty bombs ; fome falling within the court, one within the 
 great magazine, and two upon one of our brafs guns, which only broke her wheel. 
 
 About eleven this night a foldier's wife in garrifon was fent out. 
 
 May 2 4,
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. j; 
 
 chapel ; upon the north of which, to the left hand, is a place called 
 the Bomb-battery. After leaving the chapel you enter the half moon, 
 upon the right of the main-guard room, upon the left the cannon ranged 
 on a platform, forming the half moon ; upon the top of the rampart, 
 
 May 24. About eight in the evening a bomb did break in the low half moon amongft out- 
 men, drawn up in order to be relieved, but none were hurt. This night the foldier's wife re- 
 turned. 
 
 May 25. They had now gotten the elevation of the cadle exactly, and feveral bombs were 
 thrown into the palace ; which, falling through the leads, had defaced molt of the upper rooms, as 
 alfo in the old magazine, church, &c. This afternoon we difcovered a fleet of Dutch doggers 
 making up the Frith, and concluded they were chafed by the French fleet, but it proved a mif- 
 take. About eleven at night Hen. Gordon was fent out. 
 
 May 2G, Sunday. The befiegers having finished their north battery, began early this morning 
 to fire from them with three cannon (twenty-four pounders) upon the palace, and the gun ports 
 of the high half moon. They beat down the balcony upon the top of the wall; moft of their 
 balls fplit in pieces; nor were they fparing of their bombs to the glory of God on his own day, and 
 even in time of divine fervice. Our church being now ruined by the bombs, we had a fermon in 
 a vault under the room which was the powder magazine before the liege. 
 
 May 27. This day they fired briikly from their fouth and north batteries with their cannon, 
 but fliot no bombs ; and we burnt very little powder in exchange, defigning to fave fome barrels 
 for the folemnity of ihe 29th of May. 
 
 May 28. Two bombs fell through the leads, and fplit in our ftorehoufe, where three or four 
 of our men were receiving their allowance of drink ; but we fuftained no damage, but of ale, 
 whereby the foldiers were forced to drink water lb me days. This night Henry Gordon returned, 
 and brought an account, that one of the befiegers' mot tar-pieces had fplit ; and that the great 
 leaders in the reformation, upon appearance of the Dutch doggers, got together horfes, attendants, 
 arms, &c. and made vaff preparations, as if they had been to fly to, or for the king's hoir. 
 
 May 29. A bomb having fallen laft afternoon into the room where the public records are kept, 
 occafioned a parley this morning on our fide: and the Duke fent a letter to the Lord Rofs to this 
 effect: That, as a good countryman, he thought himfelf obliged to informfiis Lordfliip of an accident 
 that had happened, which threatened the kingdom in general; and defired a conference with him on 
 that head. The Lord Rofs would not venture himfelf; but his Grace received a letter from D. Ha- 
 milton, intimating that he might communicate what he had to fay to Captain Mackay, the bearer; 
 upon which his Grace informed the captain of the accident ; and propofed to remove the records to 
 the crown chamber, where they might be fafe in a firm vault; but that the keys thereof were in 
 feveral hands, and could not te commanded at the time ; and therefore he thought proper to caufe 
 make open the doors upon this preffing oceafioi: : and yet, this being on all hands a matter of fuch 
 importance, he could not meddle in it but at the fight of fome of the eftates commiflionate for that 
 end ; and that he expected an immediate return. He likewife told the captain, that he w;;, to put 
 out the royal flag ; and hoped none would be fu'rprifed at it, being only on account of the folemnity 
 enjoined this day by a ftanding a& of parliament ; and inquired whether the eftates dtiigtud any 
 public rejoicing, to which he had likewife no pofitive anfwer. The captain went back for inflruc- 
 tions, and returned tothecaftle about twelve o'cle>ck. He told his G:vce that Duke Hamilton was 
 
 vol. 1. F much
 
 18 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 the flag-ftaff ; and, a little further on, a very deep draw-well; but, in 
 the event of a fiege, of very little ufe to the garrifon : for, on the dif- 
 charge of artillery, the water almoff. entirely fubfides. Leaving the 
 half moon we turn weft, where we enter the grand parade, which 
 
 much of his mind, as to the obligation of cbferving the folemnity ; but the eflates thought fit to 
 difpenfe with it : and thenfpeak of the bufinefs, but, wanting full inftruftions, he went again for 
 further direction. But immediately after he was gone they fired two cannons from their north bat- 
 tery ; and thus, according to their laudable cuftora, they abruptly put a clofe to the communication, 
 and left the public records to the danger of the bombs, notwithstanding all the pretenfions to the 
 public good. We obferved the folemnity with bonfires, and fome fireworks. When they played 
 upon us with their bombs, we relumed them fquibs ; and cheerfully drank to the health of the 
 king, queen, and prince, in a mortifying liquor. They aimed this day chiefly at our bonfires 
 with their bombs and be ft guns, but upon other occafions at the palace; which had given his 
 Grace occafion to obferve, that they meddled too little with the walls, if they refolved to take the 
 Caftle by ftorm ; and too much with the houfes, if they intended to get or keep it long upon ca- 
 pitulation. This evening we perceived two bonfires in Fife ; by which we concluded there were 
 fome fparks of loyalty left in the country. 
 
 Lieutenant Hay being under fome indifpofition, had leave to go out this night; and the 
 ioldier's wife, (who had been sent out a few days before, and returned) was to have gone after 
 him upon fome mefl'age from the Duke; but fhe deferred her journey on pretence (he was afraid 
 of the bombs, of which they fired many this night. 
 
 May 30. .This night the foldier's wife was again ordered out, but would not flir, pretending 
 the night was too clear. 
 
 May 3 1 . About one this morning fome of our gentlemen on guard heard the befiegers at work 
 on thefouth fide of the Caflle-hill; and fome time after we could perceive ground broken at a fmall 
 distance from the low half moon ; upon which it was propofed to fend out a party of fourteen men 
 at night to beat the enemy from it. But a debate happening between the gentlemen of the two 
 fquads, one part as difcoverers, and the other as being now (after relief of the fquad who disco- 
 vered) a&ually upon the guard, pretending a right to be of the party, this intended fally was dif- 
 charged . 
 
 This ni°ht Andrew Rofs went out, and with him the foldier's wife, and at the fame time one 
 Janet Cunningham, upon fome mefl'age from the Enfign : and as we were bufied in feeing them fafe 
 over the North Loch, Robinfon (one of the Jriflimen who bad come into the garrifon during the 
 fiege, and was made a ferjeant) — Paterfon, a corporal — Ochter Lowny (the woman's hufband 
 that was fent out) — and two other centinels, deferted : Ochter Lowny's wife had gotten twelve 
 or fourteen crowns to bring in drugs and other neceffaries for the ufe of the garrifon. And now 
 we perceived that flie had been acceflary to the treachery ; and that her delays from one night to 
 another, on frivolous pretences, were really to wait an opportunity till the deferters fliould have 
 the low guard (for our men exchanged ports every time they mounted), and confequently all ad- 
 vantages of an efcape; for the corporal had altered the roll of centinels to get the knaves packed 
 together for their game, and placed them where they could eafily get over the wall; and Ro- 
 binfon had the cuftody of the key of the wicket of the outer gate, and actually carried it with him. 
 About an hour after this defertion, one Runchyman was difpatched out to give all coirefpondents 
 eotice to abfeond, and had orders to return by the North Loch paflage about two next afternoon. 
 
 June
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 19 
 
 forms a kind of long fquare, about 100 feet by 8o. On the eaft fide is 
 an apartment where the regalia of Scotland were depofited in the year 
 1707, the windows of which are fhut with wood, &c. but the enfigns 
 of royalty have never been fcen by any body fince that time. In the 
 
 June 1. About four in the afternoon we perceived Runchyman returning towards the North 
 Loch : and after he had left the long gate oppofite to the ganifon, he ran through the corn-fields 
 with his fword drawn. We (having before manned the walls, and pointed great guns towards the 
 befiegers whole guards) fired from all quarters, and he returned Cafe in the enemies view. He told 
 us that ere he could pafs the beliegers guards, after he went out (being kept for feme time under 
 examination), centinels were planted at Mrs. Ann Smith's lodgings: that Mr. Hay was feized in 
 his chamber, whilfi he was there to advertife him of the danger; but that Runchyman palfed 
 for Mr. Hay's man, and efcaped under that colour. In a word, that his Grace's letters, and others 
 from the ganifon, were in the enemies hands ; however, moll of them were written myftically, 
 or had feigned or no fuperfcriptions. Runchyman having got fafe into the garrifon in the be- 
 fiegers fight, and they fancying he had fome extraordinary menage in charge, enraged them to 
 that height, that tbey fired inceflantly for fome hours. The fame day our gentlemen had put oft" 
 their dinner, expecting Runchyman's return : and after his arrival, the cloth being laid in a 
 clofet, one pair of flairs, in the palace, where molt of them had dieted hitherto, it was, by mere 
 accident, removed to a vault : and, before dinner was well begun, a bomb broke in the clofet, 
 where they were to have dined, and tore every thing therein' to pieces. Another fplit in the 
 kitchen, where many of the fervants were prefent, but none hurt. One fplit on the leads of the 
 palace; having firft fallen upon the top of the wall, and broke the centinels piece; but he re- 
 ceived no damage. And another, falling through the leads into the palace, broke a door, and 
 John Stuart of Boggs was wounded in the face, and loft an eye by a fplinter of it. Before this 
 time we had no creature in the garrifon dangeroully wounded, except a cow of the Lieutenant 
 Governor's, that was fhot by a mulket ball; and was great part of the frefti provifion here, dur- 
 ing the fiege, whatever reports went abroad about it. 
 
 Whilst the befiegers were at the height of their fury, we perceived a large clout, of an orange 
 colour, mounted on their north battery ; and rationally concluded it to be the frolic of fome ycung 
 fpark-errant, who had procured an old petticoat from his lady miftrefs, and kept in view to in- 
 fpire him with courage to commence hero for her fake ; rather than any emblem of terror to us, 
 or right on the befiegers fide. 
 
 This night, at relieving the guards, the Duke fpaketo the twofquades, feverally, to this effect: 
 That his enemies mud acknowledge he had undertaken the defence of the place, and declared for 
 the King, when all Britain feemed to have abandoned his inteieft, only upon a principle of con- 
 fcience and loyalty : and as conference determined him then to one aft of juftice, fo it engaged 
 him now to ftudy the prefervation of thofe with him, which he reckoned another: and then 
 added, Gentlemen, let me affure, (and I do not ufe to break promifes), if we be not relieved in a 
 competent time, I will capitulate, and every one of you fhall have as good terms as mj felf. The 
 whole garrifon unanimoufly declared their abhorrence of the del'ertion, though they could not be 
 ill pleafed to get rid of the company of rogues and cowards; and that they were firmly refolved 
 to live and die with his Grace in defence of this place, for his Majefty's fervice. 
 
 Theub
 
 so EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 fouth-eaft corner of this fquare is a room prcfently occupied as a can- 
 tine, where it is faid the unfortunate Mary ufed to refide, and where 
 fhe was delivered of her fon James, afterwards James VI. Between 
 this and the fouth-weft and north-weft corners are accommodations 
 
 There were now fome alterations made in porting our men. The main guard was kept at the 
 fally port ; and fix centinels, commanded by a gentleman, were pofted a little eaftward. At the 
 low guard we had two gentlemen, with a ferjeant, corporal, gunner, and nine foldiersj one part 
 of which were polled in the lower half moon, and the other in Chrichton's yard; befides five cen- 
 tinels, commanded by a gentleman, at the portcullis. 
 
 About eleven this night Mr. Rofs returned, notwithstanding the fearch made for him upon the 
 deferter's information. As he came toward the North Loch, he perceived a fmall party of the 
 befiegers advancing towards the garrifon to intercept him ; but two of our men appearing on 
 Wallace Tower, they retired to their guards. He told us that Janet Cunningham was feized, 
 but that they had got none of the papers committed to her care. 
 
 We beat a parley, and his Grace feemed to entreat for favour to Robinfon and the other deferters, 
 as if they had been fent out by order, and occafionally fallen into the befiegers hands, on purpofe 
 to procure them the harder meafure; but it took no effect:. And now they difcharged all fur- 
 ther treating except by the white flag. 
 
 June 2, Sunday. Between eleven and twelve at night, fome hundreds of the befiegers being 
 difeovered in the corn-fields, northwards, very near the caftle, upon mifinformation of a boy in 
 the garrifon that they had began an affau t, the drums beat; and all our foldiers not upon duty ran 
 towards the fal'y-port, half naked, with their arms, but without any command. Mr. Gairdne, 
 then captain of the guard, fent to advertife the. Duke that there was no danger; but his Grace 
 was abroad before the meffer.ger arrived, and had commanded our men not upon guard to attend 
 in a vault until further order. Before his Grace returned to his lodgings, he ordered fome great 
 guns to be poi ted to this parly of the befiegers (who lay 11 ill in the fame place where we firft 
 difeovered them), and the beft firemen to attend with their pieces. And thus all things being in 
 readinefs, we fired upon them very warmly with great and fmall fliot, till they made a confufed 
 retreat. And then the Lieutenant Governor, with the Enfign, went the rounds till morning. And 
 Mr. Gamine ufed fuch diligence, that he was fcarce half an hour together from any poft. And 
 iiideed our women appeared at the walls to defend them. 
 
 June 3. Early this morning we perceived the befiegers had broken ground where they pofted 
 themfelves laii night, yet flayed not to lodge there. But we might better judge of their diforder 
 • \art number of faggots we faw lie fcattered, as if they had been fown along the corn-fields, 
 where they had marched, or rather ran away, 
 
 June -I. This day we obferved a poft they had taken up, on the north fide of the Caule-hill, 
 to obfirudt all communication with our lriends abroad; and fired grenadoes out of a hand-mortar 
 piece at it, but without effedt. Colonel Winram propofed to fend out a party of fix men to beat 
 them from it ; but his Grace did not think it convenient to hazard any of the few men he had, 
 except upon more urgent occafions ; efpecially when the befiegers kept a guard behind a wall, 
 within piftol (hot of the new port: and by this time they had broken ground in thirteen or four- 
 teen places round, the garrifon. 
 
 The fame day Captain Dunbar difrnounted three of their cannon. 
 . :■' 5. We obferved fome men were pofted behind a wall near St. Cuthbert's Church, and 
 
 fired
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 21 
 
 for the officers commanding the troops in garrifon; upon the north, 
 the new barracks about 120 feet long by 50 broad, of three (lories high, 
 and is faid to be fufficient to accommodate 1000 men. 
 
 Returning to Hawk-hill upon the fouth, is Durie's battery; and 
 
 fired fome great guns upon them, which made a large breach in the wall; whereupon they fled, 
 and left fome dead and wounded behind them. 
 
 This day they fired no bombs. 
 
 June 6. About two this morning they fired one bomb only, which was matter of conje&ure 
 to us. And at this time we had taken notice of a more than ordinary concourfe of people com- 
 ing from the wefl, and flattered ourfelves with hopes that his Majefty had landed fome forces 
 there, and the rebels were running upon the noife; but this only augmented the number of our 
 difappointments. We had now no manner of information from the town or otherways. This 
 day we fired feveral cannon upon their guards at the Weft Church, and by the North Loch, which 
 did execution ; and whilft the Duke was at dinner, fome great guns were fired upon their guard;- 
 at the Weft Port, without his knowledge. 
 
 June 7- Colin Sutherland, one of our private centinels, died, after a tedious ficknefs. 
 
 June 8. This day we buried him, and fired three vollies of fmall fliot at his interment. 
 
 June g. Our provifions being now very near fpent, and great part of the garrifon fickly, it 
 was judged abfolutely neceffary to learn fomething of intelligence. But the befiegers having un- 
 derstood from our deferters the particular places by which our men got fafe out and into the Caftle, 
 and having accordingly pofted guards to interrupt them, it was reckoned a very difficult tafk. 
 However feveral gentlemen, and others, offered to adventure out; and one John Grant being 
 pitched upon, was conveyed over the wall, near the fally port : and being well acquainted with 
 the rock, and the poft the befiegers had taken up, he palled all their guards undifcovered. His 
 Grace ordered him, in cafe there were any profpect of relief, to go north, up^n fome meffage to 
 his Grace's friends, and the Lord Dundee, &c.j but, if he got not good news in town, to return 
 to the garrifon the next day bv the Weft Port. 
 
 June 10. Mr. Grant gave us this day a fign from the Long Gate that he was got fafe out, 
 and would return the next day. 
 
 We obferved the day with as much folemnity as our circumftances allowed us. 
 
 About ten at night they began ag.iin to ply us with bombs, having remained peaceable neigh- 
 bours from the 4th inftant, except one they fired upon the 6th, which we took for a farewell. This 
 night Mr. Gairdn^-and feven with him, fallied out, and chafed the befiegers from their poftson 
 the Caftle-hill. 
 
 June 11. About four this afternoon, we faw Mr. Grant feveral times at the Weft Port, and 
 were in readinefs to receive him ; but he did not offer to approach, and thereby occafioned various 
 conjectures. Whereupon it was thought fit to beat a parley ; expedting thereby to learn fome 
 intelligence how affairs went; but all treating without the white flag being denied us, about fix 
 o'clock at night the white flag was put out ; and Major Sommervell, with another of their officers, 
 came to the draw-bridge, but made fome fcruple to advance further. So the Duke flood at the one 
 end of the bridge with the Lieutenant Governor, and the Major at the other. The firft thing pro- 
 posed was as to the perfons with whom his Grace might fafely treat, and who could give fecurity 
 for performance of articles. Duke Hamilton, the Commifiiouer, was named ; but the Governor 
 
 vol. i. G defircd
 
 22 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 on the left the cells, where prifoners are kept in time of war. Upon the 
 right you defcend by a (lair, at the foot of which is the laboratory ; 
 and a little farther on is a barrack, both in ruins. Leaving this we 
 enter what is called the Back Parade. From the line wall here you 
 
 defired to fee his commiffion (for as yet we were not obliged to know that the convention was 
 reformed into a parliament, or that he was Commiffioner). Then the Major went for further 
 inftruttions; and in a fhort time returned, with Sir John Laneir, and the Lord Colchefter, &c. 
 Next the exchange of hoftages was under confideration ; they defired Colonel Winram, our Lieu- 
 tenant Governor, and offered Major Sommervell ; which the Duke would not condefcend to, but 
 offered Mr. Gairdne for a gentleman of like quality and fortune. Whilft this was under debate, 
 the ticaters had a mefiage from Duke Hamilton, neither to give or take hoftages; but to pro- 
 ceed without that formality. And fo the treaty ended for this night, and likewife the ceffation; 
 for thev gave us prefently three cannon, and we returned them as many; and afterwards they 
 fired warmly. 
 
 June 12. This morning the treaty began again; and, before they entered upon any terms 
 of furrender, the befiegers went for further inftrudtions upon preliminaries. But, in the interval, 
 Mr. Grant took the opportunity of the cefiation, and imprudently came into the garrifon, re in- 
 feda, which occafioned a new difficulty; the befiegers alledging it was a breach to have received 
 him at that time, and demanded to have him delivered up : but that being denied, and at length 
 waved, they infiftcd that the Duke ought to meet Sir John Laneir halfway between the town and 
 Caftle, but that was oppofed; and fome gentlemen in garrifon reflecting upon the treachery of 
 the centintls, &c. Major Sommervell was pleafed to fay, that General Laneir would not break 
 his word to the Duke of Gordon for fix times the value of the Caftle : and our enfign anfwered, 
 that he had broken his word and oath too, to a much better man than any upon the place ; and, 
 for any thing he knew, for a lefs reward. Then the Major threatening man, woman, and child, 
 with the fword, in cafe the treaty went back, Mr. Gairdne told him, that their men muft have 
 greater courage, or ours lefs, before we felt the effects of their threats ; and other fevere expref- 
 iions were ufed : then they parted ; and fliortly thereafter one of their officers came and dif- 
 charged any further treaty. In the time we were informed that Lieutenant Hay and Janet 
 Cunningham were both condemned, in a council of war, to be hanged, by a new Dutch mode 
 of military difcipline. 
 
 About eight this evening, his Grace having called the garrifon together, told them, that accord- 
 ing to his promife he had begun a treaty, which was unexpectedly broken of; and defired if any 
 man's heart failed him, he would declare it, and he fhould have full liberty to be gone : he put 
 them in mind that five rogues had lately diferted and gone over the walls, when they might 
 have had patent gates, if they had defired it ; and how infamous they were even with the enemy, 
 it being ufual for thofe who love the treafon to hate the traitor. Whereupon all again unani- 
 moufly declared their fixed refolutions of living upon bread and water with his Grace. Then he 
 added, Some perhaps are afhamed to own their fears before a company of refolute men : and, if 
 fo, let anyperfon who has an inclination to leave the garrifon tell me in private, betwixt this and 
 ten o'clock to-morrow morning, and I will find out a private meffage for him. And, gentle- 
 men, for you that refolve to live with me, I ftiall be willing to die with you, if it comes to that, 
 you may take my word on it ; which was anfwered with huzzas. 
 
 They
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 23 
 
 have a moft delightful view, a long way weft and north- weft. Patting 
 this we come to an irregular battery, upon the north end, mounted 
 with fome light field pieces. There is one in particular, taken from 
 the rebels in i 745, well worthy the infpec\ion of the curious. Clofe 
 
 They had, ever fince the treaty was difcharged, fired brifkly upon us from all their batteries; 
 and, about eleven at night, we perceived a body of them advancing on the north fide of I he Caflle- 
 hill : and, when they were come within two pikes length of the ditch, we fired upon them with- 
 out intermillion, and they were forced to a diforderly retreat. At firft we heard their officers fay- 
 ing, Advance, dogs ! and we called to them, Ye dogs, will not ye obey your officers? But afterwards, 
 by the light of a (hot from a great gun, having perceived them rolling packs of wool up the hill, 
 we directed our (hot that way. All upon duty behaved themfelves with great refolution : we had 
 but nineteen men, commanders and commanded, upon the low-guard and at the portcullis; and 
 they would have no reinforcement. We difcovered fo little fear of their bombs, that we always 
 fired great and fmall (hot whilft they were flying about our heads ; and our men were ringing aloud 
 on all pofts, " When the King (hall enjoy his own again." Mr. Gairdne commanded the guard 
 this night; Henry Gordon commanded a poft in the low half-moon at the fouth corner; John Fal- 
 coner another, at the centinel's box near the low guard-hotife; a ferjeant and corporal within 
 Crichton's Yard; and James Gordon at the portcullis, &c. They had likewife defigned a falfe 
 attack at the fally port. This night one of our gunners was killed on the high half-moon, by a 
 muiket ball. 
 
 June 13. This morning we fired fmartly at their men ported behind the woolpacks on the 
 Caftle-hill, till about fix o'clock, when we began to be more fparing ; for we had fpent, laft night 
 and this morning, twelve or thirteen barrels of powder. One of the Duke's cooks was this morn- 
 ing (hot through the body ; but he recovered. 
 
 This forenoon his grace was advifed to begin the treaty again, about adjufting the bufinefs of 
 Grant's coming into the Caftle, which the beliegers made fo much noife about ; for he had been 
 perfuaded to abfeond himfelf upon the rocks without the Caftle- wall ; and it was given out, and 
 believed, he had made his efcape and deferted. But it ended in the delivery of the garrifon upon 
 the following articles. 
 
 The Duke of Gordon hath fo much refpeel to all the princes of K. James the Sixth's line, as 
 not to make conditions with any of them for his own particular intereft ; fo he renders himfelf en- 
 tirely on King William's difcretion. 
 
 I. That Lieutenant Colonel Winram, Lieu'enant Governor of the Caftle, (hall fubmit him- 
 felf to King William's pleafure, his life being fecured ; and all the reft of the garrifon (hall have 
 their lives, liberties, and fortunes fecured ; and paffes granted to thofe that will take oaths not to 
 bear arms againft the prefent government. 
 
 II. The garrifon is allowed to march out with their fwords and baggage belonging properly 
 to themfelves. 
 
 III. That all the gentlemen, volunteers, fervants, and others, within the garrifon, fliall have 
 the fame capitulation with the reft of the garrifon. 
 
 IV. That all manner of perfons (hall have the benefit of the firft article, who have kept 
 correfponJer.ee with the Caftle, and who have not been in arms, and being at prefent in 
 
 Edinburgh.
 
 24 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 by the line wall you defcend by a winding flair, which leads down to 
 a place called the Butts, about fifty feet below the level of the rock, on 
 which the armoury is built, where is a guard-houfe and draw-well. 
 From this the line wall takes an eaft direction, about 150 feet, where 
 
 Edinburgh, or in the fame county, (hall be indemnified, and have the benefit of this capitu- 
 lation. 
 
 V. That fick foldiers fliall have liberty todifpofe of themfelves as they think belt, they behav- 
 ing themfelves as becometh. 
 
 VI. That all officers, gentlemen, fervants, and foldiers, fhall have the fame benefit with 
 other legiflative, they living peaceably. 
 
 VII. A considerable poft within the Caftle fliall be immediately (how foon fecurity is grant- 
 ed to the garrifon for the above written articles), put in poffeffion of thofe forces, under the com- 
 mand of Major General Laneir. 
 
 Having now a free communication with the befiegers, they owned that they had fufiained 
 a considerable lofs the night before, and that many of their men had deferted upon that oc- 
 cafion. 
 
 About ten at night Major Sommervell, with two hundred men, marched into the Caftle, and 
 had all the polls there delivered him, except the high guard hall, and great court, which our men 
 kept. Afterwards his Grace, having drawn up the garrifon in the court, told them, That now at 
 laft he had been neceffitated to capitulate, and deliver up the garrifon : the provifions being fpent, 
 a great part of the men fick, and that thofe which remained, capab'e to do duty, were too few to 
 conquer, and too many to be killed : and that he faw no profpeft of relief. He declared that they 
 had ferved him faithfully, and he knew not wherein he had been unkind to them ; but, if he had 
 wronged any, he defired them to fpeak, and they fliould have reparation: and entreated them 
 not to m.ike any difturbance with the foldiers now in garrifon ; and gave each of the centinels 
 money to bear their charges home. 
 
 This night Captain Dunbar, Mr. Scott, and fome others, who had more particularly incurred 
 the difplealure of the rabble, went privately to town. 
 
 June 14. Three full months after the clofe fiege began, the reft of the garrifon marched out, 
 but not in a body, that they might be the lefs noticed ; however, fome of them were very ill 
 treated by the rabble. 
 
 The Lieutenant Governor was detained prifoner in the Caftle. 
 
 We left in garrifon 59 barrels with powder, but there were only five entire; fix bolls malt ; 
 one barrel beef; fome cheefe; two ftone butter ; meal and bifcuit fufficient for fome longer de- 
 fence ; with fait herring. 
 
 We had about twenty fick men, and their number was daily increafing ; and indeed there 
 were fcarce forty men found. From the firft time the befiegers began to play with their 
 great bombs, we had not men enough to relieve the night centinels ; fo that fome who were 
 beft able to endure hardfliip, flood from ten at night to two or three in the morning ; and 
 befides, fome of our men were continually employed in ditching, fcouring, raifing, or 
 moving batteries. Notwithstanding whereof, the furrender at this time was loudly talked of 
 
 to
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. s 5 
 
 we come to a turret, called the Queen's Poft. Paffing this, it turns 
 fouth-eaft, afcending very fuddenly by fteps to a battery, called 
 Miln's- mount, on the north- weft of Argyle's. From this the rock 
 forms a mod: tremendous appearance downwards, to a place called the 
 Well-houfe Tower ; and from this to the weft fide, appears with aw- 
 ful majefty, and in many places overhangs in dreadful chafms fearful 
 to behold. 
 
 The Armoury is a place well worthy the attention of ftrangers, and. 
 indeed is the only place of much notice in the garrifon. Here you fee, 
 very neatly arranged, a great number of the arms taken in 1745; by 
 which a notion can be formed what defence a body of men could 
 make, armed with fuch, had perfonal courage been wanting. Befides 
 this, there is a good many thoufand ftands of arms, to anfwer any fud- 
 den emergency, kept in excellent order. The artillery fheds are alfo 
 well provided with all kinds of neceffaries in like good order. 
 
 to the Duke's difadvantage. But it were very hard meafure to condemn his Grace, when, amon»ft 
 other things, it is confidered, 
 
 I. That the Duke never had a letter from the King, or any that appeared for him, during 
 the liege, except that from Tyrconnel, when the garrifon was firft blocked up, which only de- 
 fired him to hold out fix weeks. Nor indeed was he obliged to know but that this letter was 
 fictitious, whatever it had contained. 
 
 II. At the conference with my Lord Dundee (18th March,) the Duke only undertook to hold 
 out twenty days. 
 
 III. His Grace, in all his letters to the King, the Vifcount of Dundee, and others, ftill declared 
 it was impoffible for him to hold out after the firft of June. And thefe letters receiving no 
 return, he had no ground to hope for relief, but uncertain reports that had all along deceived 
 him. 
 
 IV. The befiegers having placed a great number of wool packs between the town and garri- 
 fon, we were obliged to fuffer them either to raife a battery by our nofe, or keep a conftant firin? 
 to prevent it j and in that cafe we had not above a week's powder. Now it was not advifable to 
 bring things to a greater extremity; efpecially coniidering, 
 
 V. That by reafon of that unhappy accident of Grant's coming in to us in time of treaty, they 
 had declared, they thought not themfelves obliged at any time thereafter to keep faith with us ■ 
 and we had but too juft grounds to believe them. And this laft (upon the ftricleft obfervation) 
 appeard to the relater the main argument tf our fudden furrender, after his Grace had refohed 
 to undergo the laft extremity. 
 
 Now this being jointly confidered, with our want of provifions of all forts for ten days de- 
 fence, which was well enough known to our enemies, and the other circumftances before repre- 
 fented, the whole is left to the cenfure of the unbiased world. 
 
 V0L - *• H Strangers
 
 Z 6 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 Strangers vifiting Edinburgh have from the Caftle a very exten- 
 sive view, as far as Ben-Loman, whofe fummit appears in the form 
 of a fugar-loaf, upwards of fifty miles diftant, in a north-weft direc- 
 tion. This view was drawn A. D. 1788. 
 
 WEST VIE IF OF EDINBURGH CASTLE. 
 
 J. he Weft View of Edinburgh. Caftle is here reprefented, as it ap- 
 pears from a meadow near the high road. To the accounts already 
 given it may be added, that, according to Arnot, the eaft fide of the 
 fquare within the walls of this Gaftle was anciently the royal apart- 
 ments, from the dates on the walls. Some of thefe appear to have 
 been built in A. D. 1556 ; others in A. D. 161 6. 
 
 In the room where King James VI. of Scotland, and I. of Eng- 
 land, was born, there are fome ancient verfes on the wall, recording 
 that event : thefe appear to have been lately repainted. — This View 
 was drawn A. D. 1788. 
 
 NORTH VIEW OF EDINBURGH CASTLE. 
 
 i he North View of this Caftle completes the different points from 
 whence it may be viewed with advantage. The drawing from which 
 this plate was engraved was taken from the corner houfe in Caftle- 
 ftreet. In a place where almoft every object demonftrates the national 
 good tatte, it may appear extraordinary to relate, that a number of 
 workmen were, in 1788, actually employed in whitewashing this ve- 
 nerable building, and had already fmeared over a confiderable part of 
 its S. E. fide. But, as all orders for repairs of public works muft come 
 from England, this flagrant piece of barbarifm can only be charged to 
 John Bull. — This View was drawn A. D. 1788. 
 
 THE
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 27 
 
 THE WELL-HOUSE TOWER. 
 
 JL his Plate fhews the remains of a building corruptly called Wal- 
 lis's Tower. Its proper appellation is the Well- houfe Tower ; appa- 
 rently from a fmall fpring running under it. This, and the adja- 
 cent ruins, feem of greater antiquity than any of the buildings {land- 
 ing on the top of the rock If there ever was a communication be- 
 tween them, it is not at prefent vilible. — This View was drawn A. D. 
 1788. 
 
 ABBEY AND PaLACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE. 
 
 X he Abbey of Holyrood Houfe was founded by King David I. 
 A. D. 1128, for canons regular of St. Auguftine. The following ac- 
 count of its endowments is taken from Arnot's Hiftory of Edinburgh. 
 He beftowed on thefe canons the church of Edinburgh Caftle, and 
 thofe of St. Cuthbert's Corfterphine, and Libberton in the county of 
 Mid Lothian, and of Airth in Stirlingfliire. The priories of St. Ma- 
 ry's Ifle in Galway; of Blantire in Clydfdale ; of Rowardill, in Rofs ; 
 and of Crufay, Oranfay, and Colunfay, in the Weflern Ifles, alfo be- 
 longed to them. King David granted to the canons the privilege of 
 erecting a borough, between the town of Edinburgh and the church 
 of Holyrood Houfe, which dill retains the name of Canon-gate, with 
 a right to hold markets in it. He alfo gave them portions of land in 
 different parts, with a moft extenfive jurifdicrion ; and right of trial 
 by duel, and fire and water or deal. He allotted them certain revenues 
 payable out of the exchequer, and out of other funds ; with filhing, 
 and the privilege of erecting mills, on the water of Leith, which, from 
 the nature of the body in which the privilege was veiled, are frill 
 called the Canon Mills. 
 
 Besides the grants already mentioned, various privileges were be- 
 ftowed on this abbey, by fucceeding fovereigns ; fo that it was deemed 
 the moft opulent religious foundation in Scotland. Its annual revenues 
 at the reformation, were four hundred and iorty-two bolls of wheat;, 
 
 fix
 
 *8 E D I N B U R-G-H SH IRE.' 
 
 fix hundred and forty bolls of bear, five hundred and fixty bolls of oats, 
 five hundred capons, two dozen of hens, two dozen of falmon, twelve 
 loads of fait, befides a number of fwine, and about two hundred and 
 fifty pounds fterling money. 
 
 At the reformation the fuperiority of the Canongate, North Leith, 
 and a part of the fuburb of Pleafants, and barony of Broughton, was 
 vefted in the Earl of Roxburgh. The town-council purchafed thefe 
 fuperiorities from the Earl, A. D. 1636; and obtained a charter of 
 confirmation of the fame from King Charles I. A. D. 1639. The 
 church of Holyrood Houfe fuffered confiderably when the Englifh 
 burned down the palace upon their invafion by fea, A. D. 1544 ; 
 however, both that and the palace were fpeedily repaired. Kincaid, in 
 his appendix, No. 25, gives fome further particulars refpecYing the 
 deflru&ion of this place. Before the middle of the 16th century (fays 
 he), this ftately abbey, together with the choir and crofs of its church, 
 ■were deftroyed by the Englifh ; and nothing left ftanding but the 
 body of the church, which was a magnificent Gothic ftruclure. The 
 brazen font which belonged to this church, was carried off by Sir 
 Richard Lea, Knight, Captain of the Englifh pioneers, who prefented 
 it to the church of St. Albans, in Hertfordfhire, after he had caufed 
 the following haughty and imperious infcription to be engraved on it : 
 
 ' When Leith, a town of good account in Scotland, and Edin- 
 ' burgh, the principal city of that nation, was on fire, Sir Richard Lea, 
 • Knight, faved me out of the flames, and brought me into England. 
 ' In gratitude to him for his kindnefs, I, who heretofore ferved only 
 ' at the baptifm of the children of kings, do now mofr. willingly offer- 
 ' the fame fervice even to the meaneft of the Englifh nation : Lea, 
 ' the conqueror, hath fo commanded. Adieu. — A. D. 1543, in the 
 ' 36th year of King Henry VIII.' 
 
 The font being a fecond time taken during the civil war in 
 the reign of King Charles I. was converted into money, and 
 probably deftroyed. — A. D. 1547, after the battle of Muffelburgh,, 
 the Englifh uncovered the roof of this church, and conveyed a- 
 way the lead and the bells. At the refloration, King Charles 
 having refolved to rebuild the palace, and at the fame time to 
 give the church a complete repair, ordered that it mould be . fe.t 
 
 apart
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 29 
 
 apart as a chapel royal, in all time coming, difcharging it from being 
 ufed as the parifli church of the Canon-gate, which it had hitherto 
 been. It was accordingly fitted up in a very elegant manner. A 
 throne was creeled for the fovereign, and twelve flails for the knights 
 of the order of the Thiftle; but, as it was accommodated with an or- 
 gan, and as mafs had been celebrated in it in the reign of James VII. 
 the populace giving vent to their fury at the revolution, defpoiled 
 the ornaments of the infide of the church, leaving nothing but the 
 bare walls. They even broke into the vault which had been ufed as 
 the royal fepulchre; in which lay the bodies of King James V.; of 
 Magdalen of France, his firft queen; of the Earl of Darnley ; and 
 others of the monarchs and royal family of Scotland. They broke 
 open the lead coffins, carried off the lids, but left the reft. Thefe 
 walls, which could withftand the fury of a mob, have fince been 
 brought to the ground through the extreme avarice or ftupidity of an 
 architect. 
 
 As the roof of the church was become ruinous, the Duke of Ha- 
 milton, heritable keeper of the palace, reprefented its condition to the 
 Barons of Exchequer, and craved that it might be repaired. To this 
 effect an architect and mafon were confulted. The walls of the 
 church were already upwards of fix hundred years old, and were but 
 in a crazy condition; yet did thefe men propofe, inftead of putting a 
 flate roof on it, to cover it with flag flones ; to fupport which, a deal 
 of ftone work would be neceffary about the roof, and about which it 
 would be difficult to follow and judge of the eftimate of the archi- 
 tects. They accordingly gave in a plan and eftimate of the work, 
 amounting to £.1003; which was approved of by the Barons of Ex- 
 chequer, 7th Auguft, 1758. The new roof foon injured the fabric. 
 A report was made to the Barons by another architect, in A. D. 
 1766, that the church would fpcedily become ruinous, if the new roof 
 was not taken off, as the walls had never been intended for so vaft a 
 load. Nothing was done in confequence of this report, and the 
 church fell on the sd December 1768. 
 
 When we lately vifited it, we faw, in the middle of the chapel, 
 the broken fhafts of the columns which had been borne down bv the 
 
 VOL. I. I
 
 30 E D I N B U R G H S H I R E. 
 
 weight of the roof. Upon looking into the vaults, the doors of which 
 were open, we found that what had cfcapcd the fury of the mob, at 
 the revolution, became a prey to the rapacity of the mob who ran- 
 facked the church after it fell. A. D. 1776, we had feen the body of 
 James V. and fbme others, in their leaden coffins; the coffins were 
 now ffcolcn. The head of Queen Margaret, which was then entire, 
 and even beautiful, and the fkull of Darnley, were alio ftolen. The 
 thigh bones, however, ftill remain; and arc proofs of the vaftnefs of 
 his feature. In the belfry there are a marble monument and ftature 
 of Robert Lord Belhaven, who died A. D. 1639. The figure is re- 
 clining at full length, and the execution is mafterly; being inferior to 
 few of the monuments in Weftminfter Abbey. It has fuffered fome- 
 what by the fall of the church; part of the nofe is broke off; and 
 fomejoifts, which are hanging loofe in the belfry, threaten, in their 
 fall, to demolifh it. — Thus far Mr. Arnot ; to whofe account may be 
 added, that the rubbifh in the chapel has been cleared away: and that 
 in the year 1788, when this drawing was made, the royal bodies were 
 no longer fhewn, though the thigh bones of Lord Darnley were ftill 
 remaining, and exhibited by the cicceroni of the place, with fome of 
 an ordinary fize by way of comparifon. 
 
 Tins Drawing fhews the general view of the Chapel and Palace, as 
 it appears from a rifing ground a fmall difbance north of the high 
 road ; over it rifes that majeftic and piclurefque rock, called Arthur's 
 Seat. 
 
 WEST FRONT OF HOLl'ROOD CHAPEL. 
 
 W ITH the former Plate was given an account chiefly relative to 
 the Abbey. In this, and the two fucceeding Views, the Hiftory of 
 the Palace will be inveftigated. 
 
 The firir. account we have of this building, as a royal palace, is no 
 earlier than the reign of James V. by whom a mannon, with a circu- 
 lar tower at each angle, was eredled about the year 1528. Arnot 
 fays, his name is now to be feen at the bottom of a nich in the north- 
 
 wefternmoft
 
 © 
 
 55 
 © 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 n
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 31 
 
 wefternmoft tower. This edifice was burned by the Englifh in the 
 minority of Queen Mary; but was fbon after rebuilt and augmented 
 much beyond its prefent dimcnfions ; having then five courts — the 
 weftern, or outermoft court, larger than all the reft. Its eaftcrn 
 boundary was the front of the palace, occupying the fame ground as at 
 prefent, but extending farther fouth ; the three remaining fides were 
 bounded by walls; and, at the north-weft corner, there was a ftrong 
 gate, with Gothic pillars, arches, and towers, part of which has been 
 pulled down (as Arnot fays, whofe work was publifhed in 1788) within 
 thefe thirty years. The next court ftood on the fame fpot with the 
 prefent central court, and was furrounded by buildings. On the fouth 
 there were two fmaller courts alfo furrounded by building ; and there 
 was another to the eaft, bounded on the north by the Chapel Royal ; 
 on the weft by a line of buildings, on the fite of the prefent eaft front 
 of the palace ; on the fouth by a row of buildings now demolifhed ; 
 and on the north by a wall which divided it from St. Ann's Yard. 
 Great part of this palace was burned by Cromwell's foldiers. After 
 the reftoration it was almoft entirely rebuilt, A.D. 1674, by Robert 
 Milne, mafon, from a defign made by Sir William Bruce, a celebrated 
 architect of that time. The prefent palace is a handfome ftone build- 
 ing, nearly fquare ; meafuring, according to Kincaid, two hundred 
 and thirty feet from north to fouth, but fomewhat lefs from eaft to 
 weft: it is decorated with piazzas and fpacious walks. The weft front 
 confifts of two lofty double towers joined by a beautiful low building, 
 adorned with a double baluftrade above, in the middle, where is a 
 magnificent portico, decorated with large ftone columns, which (up- 
 port a cupola in form of an imperial crown ; and beneath it a clock : 
 over the porch, at the entrance, are the royal arms of Scotland, as 
 borne before the union. The other three fides of the fquare are lofty 
 and noble. Within the court, on the eaft, is a pediment with the 
 Scotch arms, as marfhaled fince the union. 
 
 The great ftair-cafe and ftate rooms are equal in grandeur to the 
 reft of the building. The gallery, on the north fide, is one hundred 
 and fifty feet in length, by twenty-feven one half in breadth ; its 
 height eighteen feet. The walls of this gallery are adorned with one 
 
 hundred
 
 oi EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 hundred and twenty portraits of the kings of Scotland, nineteen of 
 which are whole lengths; they were all painted by a Flemifh painter, 
 named De Wit, who was brought over for that purpofe by King 
 James VII. when duke of York. Many of the portraits of the early 
 kings arc ideal ; fome of the modern ones are faid to have been copied 
 from other pictures. Although the execution of thefe paintings re- 
 flect no very high honour on the fkill of the artift, yet the manner in 
 which they were defaced by the Englifh foldicrs quartered here during 
 the rebellion of 1745, affords greater proofs of their mifguided loyalty 
 than of either their tafte or difciplinc. 
 
 All the ancient part of this palace is occupied by the Duke of Ha- 
 milton, hereditary keeper thereof. In the fecond itory are what are 
 fliewn for Queen Mary's apartments ; in one of which is her own bed. 
 Clofe to the floor of this room, a piece of wainfcot, about a yard 
 fquare, hangs upon hinges; and, being lifted up, opens a paifage to a 
 imall flight of ftairs communicating with the apartment beneath. 
 Through this paifage Lord Darnley, and the other perfons concerned 
 in the affaflination of David Rizzio, came fuddenly upon him into the 
 Queen's apartment, where he was attending her Majefty, who was 
 flipping with the Countefs of Argyle, in a clofet about 12 feet fquare 
 communicating with her bed-chamber, which clofet is the prefent 
 north- weft tower of the palace. Rizzio was pufhed out of this clofet, 
 dragged through the bed-chamber into the prefence chamber; where, 
 being repeatedly (tabbed, he expired. Towards the outer door of this 
 apartment, fome fpots or ftains, faid to be occafioned by his blood, are 
 it. ill fliewn; which, it is faid, has refitted every effort made by wafh- 
 ing to efface it. 
 
 Lord Dunmorc has alfo lodgings in this palace, in which is a fine 
 picture falfely attributed to Vandyck, but really painted by Mytens, 
 reprcfenting King Charles I. and his Queen fetting out on a hunting 
 party; the figures are all whole lengths: among the attendants is a 
 portrait of Jeffery Hudfon, the celebrated dwarf The life of this 
 little hero was extremely Angular and eventful. He was the fon of a 
 labourer; born at Oakeham in Buckinghamfhire, A. D. 16 19. At 
 i'even years of age he was taken into the fervice of the Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, being then only eighteen inches high. On the Queen being 
 
 entertained
 
 EDINBUGHSHIRE. 33 
 
 entertained at Burleigh-houfe, the feat of that Duke, little Jeffery was 
 brought on the table in a cold pyc ; the cruft of which being broken, 
 he was taken out, and prefented by the Dutchefs to her Majefty, who 
 took him into her fervice, and afterwards fent him to France to fetch 
 over her midwife. In a mafque at court, the King's gigantic porter 
 drew him out of his pocket, as if going to eat him, to the great fur- 
 prize and diverfion of all the fpcclators. In his paflage to France for 
 the midwife he was taken by a pirate, and carried into Dunkirk. His 
 captivity, and duel with a turkey-cock, in that port, were celebrated 
 by Sir William Davenant in his poem entitled Jeojfriedos. He is faid, 
 after thirty, to have grow n to the height of three feet nine inches. Hij 
 diminutive fize did not prevent him from acting in a military charac- 
 ter: for, during the civil wars, he ferved as a captain of horfe. He fol- 
 lowed the fortunes of his royal miftrefs into France, A.D. 1644; where 
 he unluckily engaged in a quarrel with Mr Crofts, who, on a duel 
 being agreed on, came into the field armed only with a fquirt ; a fe- 
 cond meeting was appointed on horfeback, in which Jeffrey killed his 
 antagonift at the firft fhot. For this he was expelled the court, which 
 fent him to fea : when he was again taken by a Turkifh rover, and 
 fold into Earbary. On his releafe he was made a captain in the royal 
 navy ; and, on the final retreat of Queen Henrietta, attended her to 
 France, and remained there till the reftoration. In 1682, he was 
 committed to the Gatehoufe, on fufpicion of his being concerned in 
 the PupidiPiot ; where he ended his life at the age of fixty- three. In 
 the Duke of Hamilton's apartments there are feveral curious portraits. 
 
 On the fouth-wefl corner of the abbey were the royal flables, 
 .now almoft in ruins; the remains fhew what they once were. The 
 abbey and palace are furrounded by a diftricl: or liberty, formerly the 
 fancluary belonging to the monaftery for the protection of criminals, 
 et prefent an afylum for infolvent debtors. At the foot of the Ca- 
 taon-gac-e, about one hundred feet weft of the Abbey -ftrand, was a 
 crofs coniifiing of three fteps as a bafe, and a pillar on the top, called 
 Girth Crofs : this marked out the weftern limits of the fancluary. 
 On paving the ftreet, this crofs was taken down. 
 
 To the palace belonged a park of upwards of three miles in cir- 
 cumference : it was inclofcd with a ftone wall by King James V. This 
 
 vol. i. K park
 
 34 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 park confifts chiefly of a hill, riling into three points : the foutheru- 
 moft and higheft is called Arthur's Seat. The etymology of this ap- 
 pellation is difputcd ; fome deriving it from the Erfe or Galic ; others 
 from the Britifh prince of that name having from thence reconnoit- 
 ered a Saxon army, which he afterwards defeated. The northern- 
 moft is called Salilbury Crags, as fome conceive alfo from the Galic, 
 in oppofition to which, it is faid to take its name from an Earl of Sa- 
 lifbury, who in the reign of King Edward III. accompanied that 
 prince to Scotland, and poffibly viewed the city of Edinburgh from 
 that eminence. 
 
 The northernmoft is called St. Anthony's Hill, from a hermitage 
 and chapel of that name, built near its foot. Arthur's Seat is com- 
 puted to be near feven hundred feet high ; and is a moft majeftic, as 
 well as picturefque object., from what point foever it is viewed ; in 
 fome, it has greatly the appearance of a lion couchant. On the fouth- 
 weft fide there is a curious echo ; and on the fouth fide a number of 
 bafaltic pentagonal and hexagonal pillars hang down the rock; they 
 meafure about three feet in diameter, and are from forty to fifty long: 
 they are vulgarly called the organ pipes; and at firft fight have 
 fomewhat of that appearance. 
 
 On the north fide of the palace was the royal garden, fince ufed 
 for fome time for a botanic nurfery, till a new one was laid out by 
 Dr. Hope, upon the weft fide of the walk to Leith. 
 
 This View fhews the weft front of the chapel, with the tower and 
 adjacent buildings; and was drawn A. D. 1784. 
 
 EAST VIEW OF THE INSIDE OF HOLTROOD CHAPEL. 
 
 Ike View dire&ly contrary to that in the former Plate is here ex- 
 hibited, as feen, from near the eafternmoft end of the infide of the 
 building. It was drawn A.D. 1788. 
 
 WEST
 
 I 
 
 % 
 
 I
 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 s 
 
 © 
 
 Eg
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. sS 
 
 WEST VIEW OF THE INSIDE OF H0L1R00D CHAPEL. 
 
 J. his Drawing was taken near the door of the belfrcy, in the 
 N.W. angle of the infide of the chapel. Near the upper end, towards 
 the right hand of the fpeclator, are the royal vaults, in which are 
 -Thill kept the bones mentioned in the account. This view was drawn 
 A. D. 1788 ; at which time the arches and columns on the fouth fide 
 were greatly out of the perpendicular, inclining towards the north. 
 
 HERIOTS HOSPITAL, EDINBURGH. 
 
 J. ins magnificent edifice was founded by George Heriot, goldfmith 
 to King James I. of England. His hiftory is in fubftance thus re- 
 lated by Arnot, in his Hiftory of Edinburgh. 
 
 George Heriot was the fon of a goldfmith of Edinburgh, of the 
 fame name. His father brought him up to his own trade, which he 
 followed in that town. On his marriage with the daughter of a mer- 
 chant, A.D. 1 580, his paternal fortune, added to the portion of his 
 wife, amounted to 21 4I. lis. 8d. fterling. With this flcnder begin- 
 ning, and another portion of 333I. fterling with a fecond wife, A.D. 
 1608, he, by his induftry and economy, accumulated fifty thoufand 
 pounds fterling, at that time a prodigious fum. In the year 1597, 
 he was appointed goldfmith to Anne of Denmark, wife of James VI. 
 of Scotland, and foon after to that king; on whofc acceftion to the 
 crown of- England, Heriot followed the court to London ; and, be- 
 coming a widower, he returned to Edinburgh, where he took a fe- 
 cond wife, whom he alfo furvived ; and dying without any legitimate 
 children, on the 12th of February, 1624, an:er leaving confiderable 
 legacies to two natural daughters, he bequeathed the refidue of his 
 fortune to the town-council ordinary and the miniftcrs of Edinburgh, 
 in truft, for building and endowing an hofpital for the maintenance 
 and education of indigent boys, the fons of burgeftes of that city. 
 
 This
 
 36 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 This refidue amounted to the fum of 23,6251. 10s. 3|d. fterling, as 
 appears by diverfe records, and other authentic memorials; and not 
 43,6081. lis. 3d. as affcrted by Maitland. 
 
 The plan of this building was, it is faid, drawn by Inigo Jones, 
 and approved of by Walter Balcanqual, Doctor of Divinity, one of 
 the executors appointed by Heriot. 
 
 The governors began the work in July, 1628; but the national dis- 
 turbances, which took place in 1639, for feme time interrupted the 
 progrefs. But it was renewed A.D. 1642, and finifhed in the year 
 1650, at the expence of 30,000!. fterling — 6,374!. 9s. Sid. more than 
 the original receipt. This increafe was the produce of the intereft, 
 which, at that time, was ten pounds a year for each hundred. 
 
 Cromwell having taken poffeffion of Edinburgh, after the battle 
 of Dunbar, converted this edifice to a military hofpital; and it conti- 
 nued to be appropriated to that ufe till the year 1638, when General 
 Monk, who then commanded the Englifh forces, removed them, on 
 the governor's providing them another hofpital. 
 
 On April 11, 1659, this houfe was opened for the purpofe pre- 
 fcribed by the founder, when thirty boys were admitted. This num- 
 ber was in the fucceeding Auguft increafed to forty; and in 16^1, to 
 fifty-two. In AD. 1733, the number admitted was increafed to one 
 hundred and thirty; and in I/63, to one hundred and forty. In 1788, 
 there were only one hundred and ten. The revenues of this Hofpital 
 confifr. of a real eftate of about 1800I. per annum. The income is, 
 however, fomewhat fluctuating, being corn rents, and depending on 
 the price of grain. A.D. 1776, the produce was 1966I. 
 
 The Hofpital had incurred a debt to the amount of 3000I. fler- 
 ling: but this, owing to the good management of the fucceeding trea- 
 furer, has not only been paid off, but the Hofpital has alfo fome ready 
 money now at intereft. 
 
 In this Hofpital the boys are inflrucled in reading, writing, arith- 
 metic, and the Latin tongue: fuch as prefer a courfe of academical 
 learning, have annuities of iol. per annum each, for four years. 
 Others are put out to trades, and have each thirty pounds given with 
 them as an apprentice fee: it was originally only 1 61. 13s. 4d. 
 then 26L. and afterwards augmented to the prefent fum. The fta- 
 
 tutcs
 
 D 
 
 N 
 
 
 f5 
 
 h 
 
 H
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 37 
 
 tutes for the government of the houfe were compiled by Dr. Balcan- 
 qual. 
 
 The building, fays Kincaid, confifts of a fquare, whofe fide mea- 
 fures one hundred and fixty-tvvo feet on the outfide, leaving an open 
 court ninety-four feet each way, in the middle; the north and can: 
 fides of which are decorated with piazzas, and a wall fix feet and one 
 quarter in breadth. The court is paved with fquare (hones, and has a 
 well in the middle. On the north fide of the fquare, and fecond (lo- 
 ry, is an effigy of the founder, George Heriot, cut in (tone, and paint- 
 ed; which the boys, on the firft Monday in June, ornament with 
 flowers, and keep the day as a feftival in honour of their benefactor. 
 Over the gate- way is a fpire and a clock, and the upper corners ot the 
 building are ornamented with turrets. The windows, in number 
 two hundred, are alfo ornamented with curious devices; and, not- 
 withftanding there are fo many, not one is to be found fimilar to 
 another. The fculpture, of which there is a great profufio is re- 
 markably well performed; indeed, the execution exceeds the de- 
 fign. The fubjecls confift of texts of fcripture ; ornaments of foliage ; 
 figures and reprefentations of the inftruments ufed in the trade of the 
 founder; under whofe ftatue is a Latin infeription, fignifying, that 
 his perfon was reprefented by that image, as his mind was by the fur- 
 rounding foundation. 
 
 This View, which was drawn in 1788, from the garden, fhews 
 the fouth and caff, fide of the Hofpital : with a diftant fouth- eaft view 
 of the Caftle. 
 
 TRINITY CHURCH, EDINBURGH. 
 
 J. his edifice ftands in the hollow between the north bridge and 
 the Caltowne burial ground. It was founded in the year 146^, by 
 Mary of Gueldres, queen of King James II .and dedicated to the Holy 
 Trinity. That queen was interred in the north aide ; her arms, quar- 
 tered with thofe of the Ifle of Man and Scotland, arc engraved on the 
 fouth buttrefs. 
 
 vol. i. L According
 
 38 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 According to the endowment of the foundrefs, the chapter was to 
 confift of a provoft, eight prebendaries, and two chorifters, who had 
 all feparate provifions. Some of the rules laid down in the charter of 
 this foundation do not convey a very exalted idea of either the morality 
 or learning of the clergy of thofe times, it being therein provided, 
 that no prebendary fhould be inftituted, unlefs he could read and fing 
 plainly, and underftood arithmetic ; and that if any prebendary fhould 
 keep a concubine, or fire- maker, and fhould not difmifs her after being 
 thrice admonifhed thereto by the provoft, his prebend fhould be ad- 
 judged vacant. 
 
 The whole of the intended building was never completed, the part 
 here fhewn being only the choir, tranfept, and central tower. At the 
 reformation, according to Arnot, the regent, Murray, beftowed this 
 collegiate church, and its revenues, on Sir Simon Prefion, who ge- 
 neroufly gave them in benefaction to the town council ot Edinburgh, 
 to ferve as a place of worfhip for the citizens; fince which it has been 
 commonly called the College Kirk. 
 
 This view was taken from the fouth-weft, and fhews the Caltowne 
 burial ground, with the monument of David Hume the hiftorian. 
 
 THE CHAPEL OF ST. ROQUE. 
 
 _L his chapel ftands at the weft end of the Borough Muir, and had 
 a cemetery round it, where thofe perfons of the city of Edinburgh 
 who died of the plague, were buried. When, or by whom it was 
 founded, is uncertain. A. D. 1532, the town and council granted 
 four acres of land in the faid muir to Sir John Young, then chaplain, 
 on condition that he fhould keep the roof and windows of the chapel 
 in repair. After the reformation, the performance of divine fervice 
 here was left off, and the building and cemetery granted to private 
 ufes. 
 
 The inconvenience arifing from the lofs of this cemetry, was, it 
 is fnd b) Arnot, feverely felt by the citizens, whole burial grounds 
 are by n^ means adequate to the increafed number of inhabitants. In 
 
 1788,
 
 Q 
 
 — —
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 39 
 
 J 788, when this View was drawn, there were little more than the two 
 gable ends, and part of the fide walls, ftanding; and thefe owe their 
 exiftcnce to the fuperftition ot' the populace. For about t ;irty years 
 ago (favs the above-mentioned author, in the Hiftory of Edinburgh), 
 the proprietor of this ground employed mafons to pull down the walls 
 of the chapel, when fome of them being killed by the fcaffolding 
 giving way, the accident was confidered as a judgment indicted on 
 them for thus facrilegioufly demolifhing the houle of the Lord; and 
 fo univerfally was this believed, that the proprietor could not, either 
 by entreaties, or extraordinary wages, procure workmen to accomplifh 
 its demolition. 
 
 THE IFRTTES HOUSES. 
 
 X he Wryte's Houfes ftand a fmall d. fiance fouth-weft of the 
 town of Edinburgh, in a fuburb called ,1'ortlborough. Their deno- 
 mination is vulgarly, but erroneoufly, faid to have originated from 
 their having been the refidence of certain Wrights or C.trpenters, 
 employed in cutting down and working the oaks and other timber 
 growing on the Borough Muir; but Maitland, who mentions this, 
 fays they were houfes belonging to the Laird of Wryte. The weftern 
 wing of this building, according to him, is the moll ancient part of 
 the edifice, having on it an infeription bearing date anno 1376. The 
 wing at the eaftern fide was, as is related, built in the reign of king 
 Robert III. and the centre building, connecting them, was ere<fL'd in 
 the reign of king James VI. but Arnot fays this houfe was built for the 
 reception of a miftrefs of king James IV. This hefeems to affirm of 
 the whole building. 
 
 In 17S8, when this View was taken, they had been juft repaired, 
 and deformed with a daubing of lime or whitewafli, and had, befides, 
 been otherwife much injured in their appearance, by the modernizing 
 of the windows of the centre building, which before agreed with t'.ie 
 ft vie of the wings. 
 
 ST.
 
 43 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 ST. JNTHONl's CHAPEL. Plate I. 
 
 1 ins was a Chapel to an adjacent hermitage; it ffands on an 
 elevated ftation in the Park or* Holyrood Houfe, on the north fide of 
 Arthur's feat; and commands a view over the town of Leith, Frith of 
 Forth, and the county ot* Fife. This fituation was undoubtedly chofen 
 with an intention of attracting the notice of feamen coming up that 
 Frith ; who, in cafes of danger, might be induced to make vows to its 
 tutelar faint. Such hermitages were very common on the fea-coafts, or 
 near dangerous palfcs on rivers. There is one at Cherberg, in Nor- 
 mandy, called the Vigne Blanc; feveral on the banks of the Rhine, 
 in Germany, near the different falls ; one fuch formerly exifted at 
 Reculver in Kent ; and another on the coaft of Dorfetfhire. Velfels 
 paffing thefe hermitages, or putting in to the ports near them, were 
 generally vifited by the hermit, or an agent of him ; and informed, 
 that he had offered up his prayers for their fafety in the hour of peril ; 
 and requefting alms for his fupport, and the repairs of his hermitage. 
 Hermits in general have no fettled income, but rely on the charitable 
 donations of pious perfons for a fubfiftence. 
 
 The general patron or tutelar faint of thefe hermitages was St. 
 Anthony. The Roman calendar has two faints of that name ; one 
 denominated of Padua, remarkable for his fermon to the birds and 
 fiihes; which fermon is preferved in Addifon's Travels. But the pa- 
 tron of this chapel is ftyled St. Anthony the Hermit, who conitantly 
 refided in the defert ; was by profeffion a fwine-herd, famous for 
 curing the eryfipelas, from him called St. Anthony's fire ; but raoft 
 known from his temptations, fo ludicroufly reprefentcd by poets, paint- 
 ers, and engravers ; among the two latter, by thofe celebrated artifts 
 Breughel, I iniers, and Callot. This faint is always reprefented as 
 accompanied by a hog, with a bell round his neck ; fometimes the 
 bell is tied to the girdle of the faint, fuppofed for the purpofe of call- 
 ing his grunting favourite. The feal of the convent of Leith, dedi- 
 cated to this faint, is preferved in the Advocate's Library, Edinburgh, 
 
 and
 

 

 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 41 
 
 and anfwers this dcfcription pretty exactly. It bears the figure of St. 
 Anthony in a hermit's mantle, with a book in one hand, and a ftafr 
 in the other; and at his foot a fow, with a bell about her neck. Over 
 his head there is a capital T, which it feems the brethren wore in blue 
 cloth upon their black gowns. Round the feal there is this infeription: 
 " S. Commune Preceptorial Sancti Anthonii prope Leicht." 
 
 This Chapel was a beautiful Gothic building. It was forty-three 
 feet long, eighteen broad, and eighteen high. At the weft end there 
 was a tower, nineteen feet fquare, and, as is fuppofed, before its fall, 
 about forty feet high. The doors, windows, and roof, were gothic ; 
 the laft coniifted of three compartments. A handfome ftone feat pro- 
 jected from the eaftern end; but the whole has been greatly dilapi- 
 dated within the memory of perfons now living. By whom, or at 
 what time, this Chapel was built, is not known. 
 
 At a fmall diftance fouth-eaft of the Chapel, ftands part of the 
 cell of this Hermitage. It was partly of mafonry worked upon the 
 natural rock. At the eaft end there are ftill two niches remaining ; 
 in one of which formerly ftood a fkull, a book, an hour glafs, and 
 a lamp, which, with a mat for a bed, made the general furniture of 
 
 hermitage. The dimenfions of this building were fixteen feet in 
 length, twelve in breadth, and eight in height. — This view was drawn 
 A.D. 1788. 
 
 ST. ANTHONT's CHAPEL. Plate II. 
 
 A near View of this venerable and picturefque ruin is here pre- 
 fented, as it appears when feen from the iouth eaft. In the diftance 
 is part of the town of Leith, the Forth, and the beautiful country of 
 Fifefhire. Near the foot of the rock on which the hermitage is 
 iituated, flowed acopious and pure ftream celebrated in an old Scot- 
 tifh ballad. In Sept. 1788, when this View was taken, the ipring 
 was dried up. 
 
 vol. i. M RESTALRIG
 
 42 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 RESTJLRJG CHURCH. 
 
 J. his Church {lands in a flat, or rather hollow, about a mile eait 
 of Edinburgh. It was a collegiate church, founded by King James III. 
 in honour of the Trinity; and, Arnot fays, was endowed by the two 
 next fucceeding monarchs. King James V. placed here a dean, nine 
 prebendaries, and two finging boys. From Mr. Hay's manufcript, 
 in the Advocate's Library, we learn thefe particulars ; namely, That 
 John Frifell, or Frafer, was dean of Reftalrig from 1403 to 1406; 
 and that the dean of this church married Queen Mary to Henry Lord 
 Darnley, in Holyrood Chapel, in July 1 ;64. 
 
 At the reformation, this church was ordered, by the general affem- 
 bly, to be demolifhed, as a monument of idolatry; notwithstanding 
 which, the eaft window, and part of the walls, are {till remaining; 
 from which it appears to have been a very plain building. In the 
 church yard is a vaulted maufoleum, of a polygonal figure, formerly 
 the burial place of the family of Logan, of Reftalrig; it afterwards 
 became the property of the Lords of Ealmerino, and at prefent be- 
 longs to the earl of Murray. In this vault are the remains of many 
 perfons of quality and fafhion: one inferibed I ady Jonet Ker, Lady 
 Reftalrig, quha departed this life 17th May, I ^26. Over this vault is a 
 high tumulus of earth, planted with yew trees, which, with the fur- 
 rounding tombs or burial places, all neatly fitted up, and preferved 
 from the depredations of the parfon's cattle, and the idle boys of the 
 parifh, have a mod folemn effecl. Indeed, the decency with which 
 thefe monuments are in general kept in Scotland, affords a leffon 
 worthy the imitation of their Englifh neighbours. 
 
 The cemetery round this church is chi :Hy ufed as a burying-place 
 for the Englifh ; and likewife for the Scots of the epifcopal commu- 
 nion. — This View was drawn A D. 1788. 
 
 ROSLIN
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE 
 
 43 
 
 ROSLIN CHAPEL, MIDLOTHIAN, OR EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 Xvoslin Chapel, called the Chapel amidft the woods, {lands in 
 the (hire of Midlothian, about tour miles, fouth of Edinburgh. It is 
 faid to have been formerly written Ro/kelyn, a word in the Galic or 
 Erie language, fignifving a hill in a glen, which is exactly the defcrip- 
 tion of its fituation ; for it {lands on a riling ground named the Col- 
 lege hill, beautifully decorated with wood and water, the river Lfk 
 running in a deep rocky bed on its> weft and fouth fronts. 
 
 This Chapel, which feems to have been originally intended for a 
 more fpacious building, was erected, A. D. 1446, by William St. 
 Clair, or Sinclair, Prince of Orkney, Duke of Holdenbourg, Earl of 
 Caithnefs, the feventh of that family of the name of William. It 
 was dedicated to ;t. Matthew the apoftle and evangelill, and founded 
 for a provoft, fix prebendaries, and two finging boys; for whofe 
 maintenance it was endowed by the founder with the church lands of 
 Pentland, four acres of meadow near that town, with the kips and 
 eight fowms grafs, in the town of Pentland. The subterraneous 
 chapel or cript, at the eaft end, was founded by his firft lady, Dame 
 Elizabeth Douglas, formerly Countefs of Buchan, and daughter of 
 Archibald, the fecond of that name. Another William of Roflin far- 
 ther endowed this Chapel by his Charter of February 5, 1522, with 
 fome portions of land near the Chapel for dwelling-houfes, gardens, 
 &c. for the provoft and prebendaries. 
 
 Tradition relates, that the defign for this chapel was drawn at 
 Rome ; and, in order that it might be properly executed, the founder 
 caufed dwellings to be built near it for the workmen, the ancient vil- 
 lage being half a milediftant. Here he gave to them houfes and lands 
 in proportion to their abilities, with ten pounds a year to each mafon, 
 and forty to the mafter mafon ; alfo proportionable rewards to the 
 other artificers. By thefe bounties he attracted all the bell workmen 
 in this and the neighbouring kingdoms. 
 
 The
 
 44 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 The founder dying about the year 1484, before the building was 
 fi nifhed, it was carried on and completed by Sir Oliver Sinclair of 
 Roflin, his eldeft fon of the fecond marriage, whofe mother was Lady 
 Margery Sutherland, defcended from the blood royal; her great grand- 
 mother Jane being the younger daughter of King Robert Bruce. 
 
 The following tale is related reflecting part of this building: The 
 mafter mafon of this Chapel meeting with fome difficulties in the exe- 
 cution of the defign, found it neceffary to go to Rome for informa- 
 tion; during which time his apprentice carried on the work, and even 
 executed fome parts, concerning which his mafter had heen moft doubt- 
 ful; particularly a fine fluted column or pillar near the high altar, orna- 
 mented with wreaths of foliage and flowers, in alto relievo, twitting 
 fpirally round it. The mafter, on his return, flung with envy at this 
 proof of the fuperior abilities of his apprentice, flew him by a blow 
 on his head with a mafon's hammer. In fupport of this ftory, the 
 ciceroni of the place fhows not only the column, called the ap- 
 prentice's pillar, but feveral other heads, fupporting brackets in the 
 wall, faid to be the heads of the parties : one is called the mailer's; 
 another that of the apprentice, whofe wound is marked with red 
 oker; and the head of a weeping woman is faid to reprefent the mo- 
 ther. Moft certainly this is all fiction: the head pointed out for that 
 of the apprentice, exhibits a bearded old man. Similar ftories are 
 told of different buildings; one, in particular, of the famous rofe win- 
 dow at Rouen in Normandy, faid to have been built by an apprentice, 
 whofe mafter, out of jealoufy, knocked out his brains with a ham- 
 mer. But the legend goes a little farther than that of Roflin ; for it 
 adds, that, being condemned to death for that cruel action, no work- 
 man could be found capable of completing his work, wherefore he 
 was pardoned by the Pope ; and, having finifhed the building, be- 
 came a monk in fome fevere order. 
 
 It feems that there was fome very great mifapplication of the re- 
 venues and eftates of this foundation: as in February 26, 157 1, the 
 provoft and prebendaries figned a deed, refigning the feveral dona- 
 tions into fecular hands, unalienably ; affigning for reafon, that, for 
 many years before, their revenues were violently detained from them ; 
 
 infomuch
 
 EDINBURGHSIRE. 45 
 
 infomuch that they had received little or no benefit from them. To 
 this deed the leal of the chapter of this collegiate Chapel was ap- 
 pended, being St. Matthew in a church, red, upon white wax ; as alfo 
 the feal of the then Sir William Sinclair of Roflin, being a ragged 
 crofs, red, upon white wax. 
 
 On December 11, 1688, about ten at night, this Chapel fuffcred 
 fome injury from the fury of a mob, who moftly conlifted of the 
 tenants of the proprietor, by whom the Caftle was alfo plundered. 
 
 Of late years this beautiful edifice was in great danger of becoming 
 quite ruinous ; but to the great honour of the late General Sinclair, 
 then proprietor, he prevented it, by putting new flag-ftones on the 
 roof; and new wooden cafements, with glafs, into all the windows. 
 He likewife new laid the floor of the Chapel with flag-ftones, and re- 
 built the high wall round the cemetery ; on which repairs he expended 
 a very confiderable fum. At prefent the building feems to want a 
 little more fuch friendly affiftance ; time, and the weather, having 
 made feveral vifible encroachments on it. 
 
 This Chapel is furrounded with a handfome ftone wall, the en- 
 trance on the north fide. The entry into the Chapel is by two doors, 
 one in the north, the other in the fouth fide. The height of the 
 Chapel within, from the floor to the top of the high arched roof, 
 forty feet eight inches ; breadth, thirty-four feet eight inches; the 
 length, fixty-eight feet. 
 
 At the fouth-eaft corner there is a defcent by a flight of twenty 
 fteps into a cript or chapel, partly fubterraneous, which likewife is 
 fuppofed to have ferved for a facrifty and veftry; the eaft end of this 
 building is above ground, occafioned by the fudden declivity of the 
 hill. The height is fifteen feet, breadth fourteen feet, length thirty- 
 fix feet: it is lighted by a fingle window. 
 
 This whole Chapel is profufely decorated with fculpture, both 
 within and without. On the outfide are a number of niches for fta- 
 tues: but whether any were ever placed there, is doubtful. The 
 infide is divided into a middle and two fide aides, by feven columns on 
 each fide, fupporting pointed arches; and over them, in the middle 
 aifle, which is higher than thofe on each fide, is a row of windows. 
 
 vol. 1. N The
 
 40 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 The roof, the capitals, key-ftones, and architraves, are all covered 
 with fculptures, reprefenting flowers, foliage, pafTages of facred hif- 
 tory, texts of fcripture, and grotefque figures ; all executed with an 
 aftonifhing neatnefs. The apprentice's pillar before mentioned, by 
 fome called the Prince's Pillar, fuppofed in compliment to the 
 princely founder, or more probably from its fuperiority to the others, 
 has on its bafe a number of dragons and other monfters, whofe in- 
 terwoven tails are quite clear of, or detached from, its furface. The 
 author of a pamphlet, containing a minute defcription of this Chapel, 
 Jpeaks thus of this pillar: " It has, on the bafe of it, feveral dragons, 
 " in the ftrongeft or firft kind of bajj'o relievo, as one can eafily thrufl 
 '' a finger or two between fome parts of the dragon and the bafe. 
 " The dragons are chained by the heads, and twitted into one another. 
 ;< This beautiful pillar has round it, from bafe to capital, waving in 
 " the fpiral way, four wreathes of the moft curious fculpture of 
 " flower-work and foliage, the workmanfhip of each being different, 
 " and the centre of each wreath diftant from that of the neighbouring 
 " one a foot and a half. So exquifitely fine are thefe wreathings, 
 " that I can refemble them to nothing elfe but Bruffels lace. The 
 " ornaments upon the capital of this pillar are, the ftory of Abraham 
 " offering up Ifaac; a man blowing on an Highland bagpipe, with 
 '' another man lying by him ; and on the achitrave joining it to the 
 " fmaller one on the fouth wall, with your face to the eaft, and to 
 " the entry of the facrifty, you read the following infeription in old 
 " Gothic characters, thus : Forte eft vinum, fortlor ejl Rex, fortiores 
 tl funt mulieres : fuper omnia v'mcit Veritas. Efdras, ch. iii. 4. 
 
 Here were formerly feveral monuments, two of which are remark- 
 able; viz. that of George Earl of Caithnefs, who died A.D. 1582; 
 and another engr in ftone, fuppofed to be for Alexander Earl of 
 
 Sutherland, grandfon to King Robert Bruce. He is reprefented in ar- 
 mour, in a cumbent pofture, his hands on his breaft, as in the act of 
 prayer; on each fide his head a lion rampant, at his feet a greyhound. 
 At the front of the third and fourth pillar, between them and the 
 north wall, there is a large flag (tone covering the opening of the fa- 
 mily vault, wherein ten Barons of Roflin are own buried. This 
 
 vault
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 47 
 
 vault is (o dry, that their bodies have been found entire after eighty 
 years, and as frefli as when firft buried. Thefe barons, fays Mr. Hay, 
 in his MS. in the Advocate's Library, were buried of old in their ar- 
 mour, without any coffin; and were fucceflively, by charter, the 
 patrons and protectors of mafonary in Scotland. And, continues he, 
 the late Roflin, my good father* (grandfather to the prefent Roflin), 
 was the firft that was buried in a coffin, againft the fentiments of King 
 Ja -nes VII. who was then in Scotland, and feveral other perfons well 
 verfed in antiquity, to whom my mother (Jean Spottifwood, grand 
 niece of Archbifhop pottifwood) would not hearken, thinking it 
 beggarly to be buried in that manner. The great expence flie was at 
 in burying her hufband, occafioned the fumptuary acls which were 
 made in the following parliaments. 
 
 The Theatrum Scotice records a fuperftitious tradition concerning 
 this Chapel, which is, that before the death of any of the family of 
 Roflin, the building appears to be all on fire. — This View was drawn 
 A.D. 1788. 
 
 ROSLIN CASTLE, MIDLOTHIAN, OR EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 It is uncertain when and by whom this Caftle was firft erecled. 
 About the year 1 1 o, William de Sanclo Clero, fon of Waldernus 
 Compte de St. Clair, who came from England with William the 
 Conqueror, obtained from King Malcolm Canmore a great part of 
 the lands of the barony of Roflin; and, as building of caftles was 
 then much in vogue, it is probable that fome caftle might hav? been 
 built about this time, but not the prefent one; great part, at leaft, of 
 which, if one may judge by its ftyle, is of very modern date Little 
 occurs in the hiftory of this Caftle before the year 1455, when we read 
 that ^ir James Hamilton was confined in it, under the ward of the 
 Earl of rkney, by King James II. ; but after iome time was releafed 
 and taken into favour. 
 
 It apnears that William St. Clair, the founder of Roflin Chapel, lived 
 in great ftate at his caftle here. The author of the deicription 01 the 
 
 chapel 
 *Gcod father, i. e. f3ther-in-law,
 
 48 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 chapel before quoted, fays, from Hay, " About that time (i e. the 
 building of the chapel, A«D. 1440.) the town of Roflin, being next 
 to Edinburgh and Haddington, in Eaft Lothian, became very popu- 
 lous, by the great concourfe of all ranks and degrees of vifitors, that 
 reiorted to this prince, at his palace of the caftle of Roflin; for he 
 kept a great court, and was royally ferved at his own table in veffels 
 of gold and filver; Lord Dirleton being his mafter houfehold, Lord 
 Borthwick his cup-bearer, and Lord Fleming his carver; in whofe 
 abfence they had deputies to attend, viz. Stewart laird of Drum- 
 lanrig, Tweddie laird of Drumerline, and Sandilands laird of Cal- 
 der. He had his halls, and other appartments, richly adorned with 
 embroidered hangings. He flourifhed in the reigns of James I. and 
 II. His princefs, Elizabeth Douglas, already mentioned, was ferved by 
 feventy-five gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three were daughters of no- 
 blemen, all clothed in velvet and fdks, with their chains of gold, and 
 other ornaments ; and was attended by two hundred riding gentlemen 
 in all her journies : and, if it happened to be dark when (he went to 
 Edinburgh, where her lodgings were, at the foot of the Black Fryer's 
 Wynd, eighty lighted torches were carried before her." 
 
 The village of Roflin was erected into a burgh or barony, by Kin 
 James the Second, at Strivelin, June 13, 1456; with a weekly market 
 on Saturday, a yearly fair on the feaft of St Simon and St. Jude, a 
 market crofs, &c. The fame was confirmed by King James VI. Jan. 
 16, 1622; and by King Charles I. May 6, 1650. 
 
 Anno 1554, this Caftle, with that of Craig Millar, and the town 
 of Leith, were burnt by th Englifh army iinty King Henry VIII. 
 to punifh the Scots for refufing their queen Mary to his fon, afterwards 
 King Edward VI. This army laid wafte the country feven miles 
 round Edinburgh. Moft of the prefent buildings feem to have been 
 erected fince that time. 
 
 December i i, 1 681, this Caftle, and the adjacent chapel, were plun- 
 dered by a furious mob, chiefly inhabitants and tenants of the barony. 
 
 This Caftle ftands on an almoft infulated rock, in the delightful 
 glen or valley on the north fide of the river Efk, which runs through 
 a deep rocky bed, wooded down to the water's edge. Its f tuation, 
 
 though
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 49 
 
 though inconceivably romantic and pleafant, is very ill chofen for a 
 cattle, being commanded by hills on both fides of the river, whence 
 one may look down the tops of its chimnics. The fite of the chapel 
 is much better calculated tor a place of itrength. The accefs to the 
 Cattle is on the eaft fide, by means of an arch over a deep gulley, 
 and through a once ftrong gate. One of the buildings, converted 
 to a dwelling houfe, is ihll inhabited by the family of a gardener, 
 who rents the grounds, famous fur their production of ftrawberries. 
 This houfe is more modern than the reft of the building; on it is the 
 date of 1563, as 1 think, the marks of the pencil with which I took 
 it down having been partly effaced. Through part o;" the Caftle 
 there is a defcent of a great number of ftone ftairs, to the bottom, 
 whence there is a door opening into the garden. In this defcent \\t 
 pafs the kitchen, which is very large, and has three fire-places. On 
 the right, in entering the Caftle through the gate, and o r >pofite the 
 gardener's habitation, there are fome arche>, buttreffes, and pieces of 
 walls. A fmall diffmce north-weft of the caftle, (lands the two 
 gable ends of the parifh church; having trees now growing in its allies. 
 It is ftill ufed as a burial ground; and, with the accompaniment of the 
 adjacent view, make a very folemn fcene. 
 
 The environs of this place are iamous for three victories gained by 
 the Scots over the Englifh in one day ; the latter end of Fcbiuary, 
 AD. 1302. 
 
 This View, which fhews the fouth-weft afpect of the Caftle, was 
 drawn A.D. 1788. 
 
 CRAIG-MILLER CASTLE. MID-LOTHIAXSli IRE. Plate I. 
 
 X his Fortrefs, which was once a royal one, is fituated on an emi- 
 nence, three miles fouth of Edinburgh. Both its firfl builder and 
 the time of its eredion is unknown. 
 
 This place occurs pretty early in the national records; in a 
 charter of mortification, in Haddington's collections, granted in the 
 
 vol. 1. C) reign
 
 50 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 reign of Alexander II. A.D. 1212, by William, fon of Henry dc 
 Craig-Miller; by which he gives, in pure and perpetual alms, to the 
 church and monaftery of Dunfermilinc, a certain toft of land in 
 Craig-Miller, in the fouthern part, which leads from the town of 
 Nidreif to the church of Liberton, which Henry de Edmonton holds 
 of him. 
 
 Cra ig-Miller afterwards became the property of John de Capella; 
 from whom it was purchaied by Sir Simon Prefton in 1374. William, 
 a fucceiTor to Sir Simon, was a member of the parliament which met 
 at Edinburgh June 1, ^78. He had the title of Domine de Craig- 
 Miller. This cattle continued in the poflcffion of the Preftons almoft 
 three hundred years; during which time that family held the highcft 
 offices in the magiftracy of Edinburgh. 
 
 In 1477, tne Earl of Mar, younger brother to King James III. 
 was confined here a confiderable time. It was alfo the refidence of 
 King James V. during his minority, when he left Edinburgh Caftle 
 on account of the plague: and here the Queen Dowager, by the fa- 
 vor of the Lord Erfkine, his conftant attendant and guardian, had 
 frequent interviews with the young monarch, whilft the duke of Al- 
 bany, the governor, was in France. 
 
 A. D. 1554, this Caftle, with that of Roflin, and the town of 
 Leith, were burned and plundered by the Englifh. Probably moft 
 of the prefent buildings were eredted fmce that time; at leaft, their 
 ftyle of architecture does not fcem much older than that period. Queen 
 Mary, after her return in i$6i, made this Caftle her refidence. Her 
 French retinue were lodged at a fmall village in the neighbourhood, 
 which, irom that circumftance, {till retains the appellation of Petit 
 France. 
 
 This Caftle confifts of a fquare keep, or tower, feveral ftories 
 high, encompaffed by a fquare machicollated wall, flanked by four 
 circular towers, one at each angle, and again inclofed by an outer 
 wall. The barnekin, or rampart wall (according to Mr. de Cardonel, 
 from whom this account is chiefly taken), is thirty feet high, with 
 turrets and parapets. On the principal gate is the date of 1427. Whe- 
 ther this is meant to record the time that part was built, or an after- 
 repair,
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 51 
 
 repair, is uncertain. There are a great variety of apartments ; the 
 hall is large, and well lighted, confsdering the mode of ancient times; 
 has a femicircular ceiling, and meafures in length thirty-fix feet, in 
 breadth twenty-two; and, at the eaft end, has a chimney eleven feet 
 wide. The afcent of the keep is by an eafy flight of very broad ftone 
 flairs. On the eaft fide of the outer walls are the arms of Cockburne 
 of Ormfton, Congalton of that ilk, Moubray of Barnbougle, and 
 Otterburn of Redford, with whom the Preftons were nearly connect- 
 ed. Over a fmall gate, under three unicorns' heads couped, is a wine 
 prefs and a ton, the rebus of Pretton. There arc a variety of armo- 
 rial bearings all over the outfide of this building. The apartment 
 fliewn as queen Mary's, is in one of the upper turrets; it meafures 
 only five feet in breadth, and feven in length : but has, neverthelefs, 
 two windows, and a fire-place. It is remarkable, that among the 
 many rooms (hewn as having been occupied by this unhappy queen, 
 as well in England as Scotland, moft of them are fuch as a fervant 
 would now almoft rerufe to lodge in. 
 
 About the time of the reftoration, this Caftle and lands came to 
 the family of Gilmour, and at prefent belongs to Sir Alexander Gil- 
 mour: part of it is habitable, and occupied by a farmer. 
 
 This View, which ihews the north-caft afpect, was drawn A. D. 
 1788. 
 
 CRAIG-MILLER CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 A ins Plate fhews the fouth weft and by weft fide of the Caftle, 
 opening into an orchard. The profpect trom this ed.fice over the ad- 
 jacent country is extenfive and beautiful. 
 This View was drawn A. D. 1788. 
 
 THE
 
 $2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 THE CROSS OF EDINBURGH. 
 
 J he date of the erection of this Crofs is not mentioned by A mot; 
 but, from the flvle of its conflruclion, it did not feem to have been of 
 any great antiquity. It was of that kind of mixed architecture which 
 came into fafhion about the latter end of Queen Elizabeth, partly Go- 
 thic, and partly Grecian. For the following description i am obliged 
 to Mr. Arnot: "The building was an oclagon of fixteen feet diameter, 
 and about fifteen feet high, befides the pillar in the center. At each 
 angle there was an Ionick pillar, from the top of which a fpecies of 
 Gothic baflion projected ; and between the columns there were modern 
 arches. Upon the top of the arch fronting the Njtherbow, the 
 town's arms were cut, in the fhape of a medallion, in rude v orkman- 
 fhip. Over the other arches, heads alfo, cut in the (bape of a me- 
 dallion, are placed. Thefe appear to be much older workmaiifhlp 
 than the town's arms, or any other part of the crofs Four of them 
 are preferved in the tower built at Deanhaugh, by Mr. Walter Ro r s, 
 Writer to the ignet. r l hey are in alto relievo : the engraving i> gcod, 
 but the Gothic barbarity ot the figures themfelves bears the appear- 
 ance of the lower empire. One of the heads is armed with a caique ; 
 another is adorned with a wreath, refembling a turban , a third has 
 the hair turned upwards from the roots towards the occiput, whence 
 the ends of the hair ftand out like points. This figure has over its 
 left fhoulder a twilled ftaff, probably intended for a fceptre The 
 fourth is the head of a woman, with lome folds oi linen carelefily 
 wrapped round it. I he entry to this building was by a door front- 
 ing the Netherbow, which gives accefs to a flair in the infide, lead- 
 ing to a platform on the top of the building. From the platform, 
 rofe a column, confifting o r one flone upwards of twenty feet 
 high, and of eighteen inches diameter, fpangled with thirties, and 
 adorned with a Corinthian capital, upon the top ot which was an 
 unicorn. 
 
 From the Crofs at Edinburgh royal proclamations, and the more 
 
 folemn
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 53 
 
 folemn denunciations of" law, were published. There alfo, before the 
 art of printing, the mode of publifhing acts of parliament was, by the 
 heralds reading them aloud from the Crofs. 
 
 When plans were formed for enlarging and beautifying the city, 
 this building was reckoned to incommode the ftreets. It was accord- 
 ingly removed on the 13th of March, 1756, by order of the Town 
 Council, with concurrence of the Lords of Seffion and Jufticiary. 
 The place whereon it flood is marked by the caufeway, being paved 
 in the figure of an octagon, with radii diverging from a (tone in the 
 centre. Public proclamations continue to be made there. There 
 alfo company daily refort, from one to three o'clock, for news, bufi- 
 nefs, or meeting their acquaintances, nobody frequenting the Ex- 
 change. 
 
 Four of the heads, which were over the arches in the Crofs, arc 
 built up in Mr. Rofs's tower, as has been already obferved. The pil- 
 lar is preferved in Lord Somerville's park, in the neighbourhood of 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Tins view was engraved from a drawing made about the year A. D, 
 
 *75°- 
 
 C RIGHT ON CASTLE. 
 
 V^righton Castle ftands about ten miles fouth-eafl of Edinburgh, 
 and two miles fouth of Foord. 
 
 Of this edifice Mr. Pennant gives the following defcription. 
 
 " This Caftle is feated on the edge of a bank above 1 graffy glen, 
 " was once the habitation of the Chancellor Crighton, joint guardian 
 " with the Earl of Callendar of James II., a powerful and lpirited 
 " ftatefman in that turbulent age, and the advifer of the bold but 
 " bloody deeds againft the too-potent Douglas; fads, cxcuiable only 
 " by the plea of neceffity of ftate. 
 
 " During the life of Crighton it was beficged, taken, and levelled 
 
 vol. 1. P " wit).
 
 54 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 " with the ground by William Earl of Douglas, after a fiege of nirwt 
 " months*." 
 
 It was rebuilt, and fome part, which appears more modern than 
 the reft, with much elegance. 
 
 The front of one fide of the court is very handfome, ornamented 
 with diamond fhaped facets, and the foffits of the ftaircafe beautifully 
 carved; the cafes of fome of the windows adorned with roiettes and 
 twifted cordage. 
 
 The dungeon called the Alas-More is a deep hole, with a narrow 
 mouth. 
 
 Tradition fays, that a perfon of fome rank in the country was 
 lowered into it, for irreverently paffmg the Caftle without paying his 
 refpedls to the owner. 
 
 In a MS. defcription of Midlothian, among Mr. M'Farlan's papers 
 in the Advocate's library, Edinburgh, this Caftle is thus defcribed; 
 " The Caftle of Crighton is a well-built and ftrong houfe ; it is well 
 " fituated, with the park and wood thereof adjoining thereto." 
 
 This Caftle is at prefent the property of Alexander Callender, Efq. 
 
 The parifh church had been collegiate; founded in 1449 by the 
 Chancellor, with the confent of his fon, for a provoft, nine prebenda- 
 ries, and two finging boys, out of the rents of Crighton and Locher- 
 wort. 
 
 * Lives of the Douglafes, 169. 
 
 HAWTHORN-
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 fit 
 
 HAWTHORN DEN. Plate I. 
 
 Hawthornden is a fmall fortalice, or cancellated manfion, fituated 
 on a high projecting rock overhanging the river of north Efk, about 
 two miles below Rodin Caftle. 
 
 This building, like moll: of the ancient Scottish manfions, confines 
 of a fquare-vaulted tower, with walls of great thicknefs, calculated 
 to ferve as an afylum, or temporary retreat, from the depredations 
 of civil infurrecTions or foreign invafions: circumftances that fre- 
 quently happened in the turbulent times in which thefe buildings 
 were erecled. This tower is, if the expreffion may be allowed, gra "ted 
 on the native rock: adjoining to it were fome additional buildings, 
 alfo conftrucled for defence : thefe and the tower are now in ruins : 
 but fome part of the latter had a habitable room within the memory 
 of pcrfons now living. In the upper ftory of this building there is 
 now growing a fycamore tree of a confiderablc fize. The gate of en- 
 trance, though of a more modern date than the tower, is probably 
 older than the now dwelling houfe ; the iron door was lately remain- 
 ing ; and over the gate are loop holes anfwering to others at the bot- 
 tom of the tower. At what time, and by whom this tower was built, 
 is uncertain ; the firft time it occurs in record as a fortalice, is in a 
 charter of the year 1433, though probably it is of a much older date. 
 The buildings now inhabited were partly rebuilt by Mr. William 
 Drummond, the poet, in 1658, and partly by his fon and fucceffor, 
 Sir William Drummond, as we learn from the following inscription 
 on a building in the back court: 
 
 Divino Munere Gulielmus 
 
 Drummondus Johannis 
 
 Equitis Aurati filius 
 
 Ut honefto Otio qui- 
 
 efceret fibi et fuccef- 
 
 ioribus inftaurauit 
 
 Anno 1038. 
 
 From
 
 56" EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 From the window of thefe buildings, as well as from the adjacent 
 garden, there is a moft delightful and romantic profpect, fimilar to 
 thofe given by poets of Fairy land, the river Elk running with a mur- 
 muring fheam clofe under the eye, through a deep rocky glen, whofe 
 fides are clothed with wood to the water's edge, the ftream here and 
 there breaking againft large ftones, or the projecting rocks, which 
 exhibit a variety of piclurefque forms tinged with different colours. 
 What greatly adds to the beauty of the fcene is, that though the banks 
 are plentifully wooded, there are here and there bare fpots, through 
 which the rocks contrafted with the foliage appear to great advantage ; 
 a circumftance much wanted in the profpecls on the Wye, and other 
 celebrated fceftes. 
 
 Under and near the manfion two ranges of caves have been fcoopcd 
 out of the rock ; vulgar tradition makes them the work of the Pi&s, 
 which opinion is embraced by Dr. Stukeley, who in his Itinerarium 
 Curiofum has given a plan of them. This opinion is thus combated 
 by Maitland in his Hiftory of Edinburgh: at the diftance of about 
 three miles to the weftward of Dalkeith, is fituated the feat of Haw- 
 thorndcn, wherein 'tis faid the celebrated poet Drummond, in the 
 reign of King James the i-ixth, wrote his poems. This houfc {lands 
 on the north-eaftern fide of the river North Efk, in the county of 
 Mid-Lothian, underneath which are the noted caverns of Hawthorn- 
 den, by Dr. Stukeley, in his Itinerarium Curiofum, faid to have been 
 the King of Pictland's caftle or palace : which nothing can fhew the 
 Doctor's credulity more than by fuffering himfelf to be impofed upon 
 by the tattle of the vulgar, by whom, all things they cannot account 
 for, are afcribcd to the Picts, without the leaft foundation; for thefe 
 caves, inftead of having been a caftle or palace, I take either to have 
 been a receptacle for robbers, or places to fecure the people and their 
 effects in, during the defhuclive wars between the Picls and Englifh, 
 and Scots and Englifh ; which is in fome meafure confirmed by a num- 
 ber of works of the fame kind, on the Englifh and Scottifh borders, 
 and in the northern parts of Scotland, to fecure thepeople and their effects 
 againft the Englifh and Danifh plunderers and cruel depredations, which 
 I think will, in fome fort, appear by the following defcription of them: 
 The entrance into thefe caverns is in the fide of a perpendicular 
 
 rock,
 
 E D I N B U R G H S H I R E. S7 
 
 rock, of great height above the river, to which you defcend by tvven- 
 ty-feven high fteps cut into the faid rock ; then paffing along a board, 
 about the length of five feet, and breadth of ten inches, you mount 
 the rock on eight fteps, and arrive at the mouth of the cave, or an 
 imaginary palace ; within the entrance of which, on the left-hand fide, 
 cut in the rock, is a long and narrow trance or paflage, afcended to 
 by two fteps, of the length of feventy-five feet and breadth of fix, vul- 
 garly called the King's gallery, near the upper end of which (likewife 
 cut in the rock) is a narrow dungeon, denominated the king's bed- 
 chamber; and on the right-hand fide of thefe caverns, alfo cut in 
 the rock, is another cave, of the length of twenty-one feet, and breadth 
 of fix feet, defcended to by two fteps, denominated the King's guard 
 room; thefe are the fine apartments of the royal dungeons by Dr. 
 Stukeley and the populace called a Pictiih caftle and the royal palace ! 
 And in defcending the rock, before you pafs the board, there is a 
 room (but no part of the pretended palace) cut out of the rock, of a 
 modern workmanfhip, called the Cyprefs Grove, wherein 'tis find 
 Drummond ccmpofed his poems. It is of the length of feven feet, 
 fix broad, and five and a half in height. The three rooms above- 
 mentioned, by their amazing great ftrength in accefs I take to have 
 been at firft a fbelter place for a band of thieves and robbers: and the 
 houfe being fincc built over them, and a draw well funk through the 
 King's guard room, I imagine it to have been made by the proprietor, 
 to let down his effects by, to fecure them from an enemy ; for by the 
 narrownefs of the v^ay, by fteps, and along the board, it could not 
 be effected. Such places of fccurity were not peculiar to Scotland ; 
 for Tacitus, in his Cuftoms of Germany, tells us they had a number of 
 fubterraneous houfes and caverns to fecure themfclves and effects in 
 time of war. We have likewife many inftances of which, both in 
 the fouthern and northern parts of Scotland, as aforefaid." 
 
 Thus far Maitland. That thefe caverns were occafionly ufed as 
 lurking places we are told by Fordun, who fays, that in the year 1338, 
 when the Englifli were matters of Edinburgh, the famous Alexander 
 Ramfay concealed himfelf in the caves of Hawthornden, with a com- 
 pany of refolute young men, and iiTuing out lrom thence as occafion 
 prefented itfelf, attacked fmall parties of the Englifli, and plundered 
 
 vol. 1. Q their
 
 58 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 their quarters. A variety of incredible and fuperftitious {lories have 
 been fabricated refpedting the depth of thefe excavations, particularly 
 of one formerly ftyled the Elve's cave, the original entrance into 
 which has been ftopt up by a fall of the rock. It alfo feems as it 
 thefe caves were conftrudted for habitations, from the communication 
 made with a deep draw well, and from another having pigeon holes 
 cut into it; but wether this was originally made, or done fince, is 
 doubtful. 
 
 Several delightful walks through the woods on the fides of the 
 rocks are laid out with the greateft tafte and judgment, feeming rather 
 like the work of nature than of art ; and benches of rude {tone are 
 judicioufly depofited at fome of the raoft {Inking points of view. 
 
 Hawthornden, with feveral other confiderable eftates in the neigh- 
 bourhood, were granted by a charter from Helen Abernethy to Sir 
 William Douglas of Strabrock, her nephew ; and that charter is con- 
 firmed by charter in the poffeffion of the prefent proprietor, granted 
 to the faid Sir Willium Douglas by King Robert the Second, in the 
 17th year of his reign.* In this charter of confirmation the fore-named 
 Helen Abernethy is defigned daughter and one of the nieces of Sir 
 Lawrence Abernethy of Hawthornden. Upon comparing this char- 
 ter of King Robert the Second with the public records, it appears 
 that the above-mentioned Sir Lawrence Abernethy was a fecond fon 
 of Sir William Abernethy of Salton. 
 
 After the above grant of the lands of Hawthornden to Douglas of 
 Strabrock, they remained with that name and family for more than 200 
 years; and in the year 1598 were purchafed by Sir John Drummond, 
 fecond fon to Sir Robert Drummond of Carnack, and father to the cele- 
 brated poet and hiftorian, William Drummond, of Hawthornden, whofe 
 pleafant poem of the Dunghill Battle has fhaken the fides of fucceffive 
 generations. This gentleman was not only an hiftorian and poet, but alfo 
 a great projector in mechanics; fifteen or fixteen articles of his invention 
 
 * In this charter John, Earl of Carrick, afterwards Robert III., is mentioned by the King as a 
 witnefs,under the title of his eldeft fon, Senefchal of Scotland, which fufficiently refutes the common 
 error of his being illegitimate; but this miftake has already been fully cleared up by the late cele- 
 brated Thomas Ruddiman, and Mr. Gordon of Burchlaw, advocate in Edinburgh. 
 
 are
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 59 
 
 are recorded in the patent granted him by King Charles the Firft, an- 
 nexed to the folio edition of his works. Among them are boats navi- 
 gating without fails or oars, many military machines, and the per- 
 petual motion. 
 
 Here, it is faid, he entertained for fome confiderable time as his gueft, 
 Ben Jonfon, the poet, who, we are told, walked from London to con- 
 verfe with him, and to fee Hawthornden ; indeed, a more proper place 
 to fill the mind with poetic images cannot eahly be conceived. The 
 prefent Mrs. Drummond of Hawthornden is the fifth in defcent from 
 Sir John Drummond ; and by marriage with her, that eftate returned 
 to the family of Abernethy, being now the property (through his 
 fpoufe) of the right reverend Dr. William Abernethy Drummond, a 
 Scotch bifhop, who has, in the following infcription on a ftone tablet 
 placed over a beautiful feat on the rock, commemorated his kinfman 
 and predecelTor, and alfo Mr. Drummond the poet. 
 
 To the Memory of Sir Lawrence Abernethy of Hawthornden, 
 
 fecond fon to Sir William Abernethy of Salton, a brave 
 
 and gallant foldier, who at the head of a 
 
 party in the year 1330 conquered Lord 
 
 Douglas five times in one day, yet 
 
 was taken prifoner before fun fet. 
 
 Ford : Lib. XIII. Cap. 44. 
 
 And 
 
 To the Memory of 
 
 William Drummond, Efq. of Hawthornden, 
 
 poet and hiftorian, an honour to his family, 
 
 and an ornament to his country, this feat 
 
 is dedicated by the reverend Dr. William 
 
 Abernethy Drummond, fpoufe to 
 
 Mrs. Drummond of Hawthornden, 
 
 and fecond fon to Alexander Abernethy of Corfkie, 
 
 BanrHhire. Heir male of the Abernethys 
 
 of Saltoun in the year 1784. 
 
 O facred
 
 60 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 facred Solitude, divine retreat, 
 Choice of the prudent, envy of the great, 
 By thy pure ftream, or in thy waving made. 
 
 1 court fair wifdom, that celeftial maid : 
 There from the ways of men laid fafe afhore, 
 I fmile to hear the diftant temper! roar ; 
 
 There bleft with health, with bufinefs unperplexr, 
 This life I rclilh, and fecure the next. 
 
 This View fhews the entrance into the houfe, with the old tower 
 and loop holes. It was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 HAfVTHORNDEN. Plate II. 
 
 J.N this view is fhewn the old tower, the top of the manfion, the door 
 or prefent entrance into the cave, and, at a diitance, the river North 
 Efk. It was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 HA IV THORN DEN. Plate III. 
 
 XTawthornden is here prefentcd in its moft romantic point of 
 view, as it appears when feen from the river; the fycamore tree men- 
 tioned in the defcription, Plate I. is (hewn on the top of the rock ; the 
 projecting rock rifmg over the trees towards the left hand, is deno- 
 minated the pulpit, from being fhaped fomething like the founding 
 board of that machine. 
 
 Roslin and Hawthorn den make two of the fafhionable excur- 
 fions for all {hangers vifiting Edinburgh. Indeed, thofe who have 
 not feen them, particularly the latter, have miffed fome ol the moft 
 beautiful and picfurefque fcenes in the fouth of Scotland. 
 
 This view was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 WOOD-
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. or 
 
 irOODHOUSE LIE. Plate II. 
 
 W oodhouse Lie is another of the beautiful fcencs on the North 
 Efk; it was feemingly a fmall caftcllated manfion, fituated on an erni- 
 nence or mount, evidently factitious. Very little of the building, 
 except a huge chimney, and fome draggling walls, are remaining on 
 the mount ; below it, to the weft ward, is a fmall fragment of a round 
 tower. Under the ruins on the mount arc feveral fine vaults. There 
 
 is in the neighbourhood a modern manfion, the feat of -Tiltler, 
 
 Efq. called alfo Woodhoufc Lie, which is frequently miftaken for 
 this. 
 
 Crawford, in his memoirs of the affairs of Scotland, mentions a 
 (hocking inftancc of cruelty perpetrated on the iady of this houfe in 
 the year 1569, during the troubles between Queen Mary and the Earl 
 of Murray. His words are, " But to return to Hamilton of Bofwcll- 
 haugh, he was one of thofe who, among bold and loyal men of that 
 clan, fought for the queen at Longfide, was then taken prifoner and 
 fentenced to be hanged, but afterwards made his efcape, and was for- 
 feited. His wife, who was heirefs of Woodhoufe Lie, not thinking her 
 hufband's crimes would affect her eftate, willingly abandoned that of 
 Bothwellhaugh, which was his ancient patrimony, and pofleffed her- 
 felf of her own: but Murray being informed of the matter by Sir James 
 Ballandinc (a mighty favourite of his, to whom he had gifted Wood- 
 houfe Lie) fent fome officers to take poffefiion of the houfe, who not 
 only turned the gentlewoman out of doors, but frripped her naked, 
 and left her in that condition in the open field, in a cold dark night, 
 where before day, fhe became furioufly mad, and infenfible of the 
 injury they had done her. From this moment it was, that Hamilton 
 refolved upon Murray's death, which upon the 23d of January, 1750, 
 being Saturday, he thus accomplished at Lithgow." 
 
 In Mr. Pinkerton'scollc&ion of ancient Scottifh fongs, he gives one 
 from tradition, entitled, the Laird of Woodhoufe Lie; the fubftance of 
 
 vol. 1. R which
 
 62 
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 which is, that at a great feaft, where there were prefent full twenty 
 golden dames, with every one her knight, each lady being called on 
 to give to the minftrels the name of her favourite, in order that they 
 might celebrate his prowefs and accomplishments in their vcrfes, the 
 lady of Woodhoufe Lie commanded them to Ting Salton's praife. 
 Her lord taking offence at it, expreffed his anger in fuch a manner 
 as alarmed her; whereupon flie confulted her nurfe, who advifed her 
 to poifon him, and prepared the poifon, which the lady adminiftered 
 to him at dinner in a glafs of wine. News coming to the father of 
 his Ton's death, and the fuppofed caufe, he immediately repaired to 
 the King, and throwing himfelf at his feet, befought juftice. The 
 King, incenfed at the lady's crime, ordered her to be burnt at the 
 ftake. The ballad clofes with her lamentation and admonition to 
 every dame to take warning from her fall. 
 
 This ballad (fays Mr Pinkerton) is now firft publifhed* ; whether it 
 has any real foundation the editor cannot be pofitivc, though it is very 
 
 likely 
 
 * THE LAIRD OF WOOD HOUSE LIE. 
 
 Shvning was the pointed ha 
 
 Wi gladfum torches bricht ; 
 Full twenty gowden dames fat there, 
 And ilkane by a knicht ; 
 Wi mufic cheir, 
 To pleafe the eir, 
 Whan bewtie pleaf'd the ficht. 
 
 II. 
 
 Wi cunning (kill his gentle meid 
 
 To chant, or warlike fame, 
 
 Ilk damfel to the minftrels gied 
 
 Some favourit chieftan's name ; 
 
 " Sing S.ilton's praife," 
 
 The Lady fays — 
 
 In fuith five was to blame. 
 
 III. 
 
 " By my renown ye wrang me fair," 
 
 Quoth hautie Woodhoufe Lie, 
 " To praife that youth o' fma report, 
 " And never deim on me; 
 " When ilka dame 
 " Her fere cold name, 
 " In a this companie." 
 
 IV. 
 
 The morn fhe to her nourice geed : 
 
 " O mickle do I feir 
 " My Lord will flay me, fin yeflrene, 
 " I praifed my Salton deir. 
 " I'll hae nae eafe, 
 " Till Hevin it pleafe, 
 «« That I lay on my beir." 
 
 " Mair
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 likely. There is a Wbodhoufe Lie nigh to Edinburgh, which may pof- 
 fibly be that here meant. 
 
 This ruin belongs to General Lockhart, Count of the Roman em- 
 pire. 
 
 V. 
 
 " Mair wold I lay him on his beir, 
 
 The craftie nourice faid ; 
 " My faw gin ye will heid hut anes 
 " That fall nae be delaid." 
 " O nourice fay, 
 " And, by my fay, 
 " Ye fall be weil appaid." 
 
 VI. 
 
 " Take ye this drap o deidly drug, 
 
 " And put it in his cup, 
 " When ye gang ot the gladfum ha, 
 " And fit ye down to fup : 
 " When he has geid 
 " To bed bot dreid, 
 " He'll never mair rife up." 
 
 VII. 
 
 And (he has tane the deidly drug 
 
 And pat it in his cup, 
 Whae they gued to the gladfum ha, . 
 And fat them down to fup ; 
 And \vi ill fpeid 
 To bed he gied, 
 And never maid raife up, 
 
 VIII. 
 
 The word came to his father auld 
 
 Neift day by hour of dyne, 
 That Woodhoufe Lie had dried yeftrene 
 And his dame had held the wyne. 
 Quoth he, " I vow 
 " By Mary now, 
 " She fall meit fure propine." 
 
 IX. 
 
 Syne he has flown to our gudc king, 
 
 And at "his feet him layne ; 
 "OJulkice! Juftice ! royal liege, 
 '* My worthy fun is fliync. 
 "His lady's feid 
 " Has wrought the deid ; 
 " Let her receive the paine." 
 
 X. 
 
 Sair muvit was our worthy King, 
 
 And an angry man was he ; 
 " Gar bind her to the deidly flake, 
 " And birn her on the lie : 
 " That after her 
 •' Na bluidy fiere 
 " Her recklefs Lord may flee." 
 
 XI. 
 
 " O wae be to ye nourice, 
 
 " An ill dethe may ye die : 
 
 " For ye prepar'd the deidly drug 
 
 " That gard my deary die : 
 
 *• May a the paine, 
 
 " That I darraine 
 
 " In ill time, licht on thee ! 
 
 XII. 
 
 M O bring to me my gown o' black, 
 
 "My mantel, and my pall, 
 
 " And gie five merks to the friars gray 
 
 " To pray for my poor faul : 
 
 ** And ilka dame, 
 
 " O gentle name, 
 
 " Bevvar o my fair fall." 
 
 WOOD-
 
 64 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 fi'OODHOUSE LIE. Plate II. 
 
 J. h e former view fhewed the great chimney, and other fragment, 
 of the building, as viewed from the fouth-eaft. This view exhibits the 
 weftern afpecl, the fragment of the round tower, the artificial mount, 
 and the river North Elk. — They were both drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 MARC HISTON TOIVER. 
 
 J. ins building (lands a fmall diftance from the Writes houfes: Mait- 
 land, in his hiflory of Edinburgh, gives the following account of it: 
 
 "Although the Wrights manfion houfe appears to be above three 
 hundred and fixty years (landing, yet I take the houfe of Marchifton, 
 by the manner of its conftrucYion, to be of much ancienter date; but 
 what adds chiefly to its fame is, its once having been the feat of the 
 mod celebrated John Lord Napier, baron of iS'archiilon, who, by 
 his admirable and mod ufeful diicovery of the Logarithms, has raifed 
 to himfelf and country an everlafting monument of honour. 
 
 This tower, although its appearance carries very little of the for- 
 trefs, was (according to Craufurd) in the beginning of June, A.D. 1 572, 
 during the difputes between the loyalifts and aflbciates, attacked by 
 the latter, who marched out with the bed part of their (Irength, and 
 two pieces of ordnance, to batter it, and make a diverfion. This 
 occafioned the raifing of the liege of Nidderie Seaton. 
 
 A. D. 1573, Marchifton is mentioned by the fame author as being 
 ufed for a prifon by Drury, the Englifh general, fent to the afliftance 
 of Morton the regent. 
 
 March iston Tower was lately the property of the Lord Napier, 
 who rcfided in it. 
 
 This view was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 SETON.
 
 EDINBURGHSIRE. 65 
 
 SETON HOUSE. Plate. I. 
 
 A castle, or Manfion, has, it is faid, flood hereabouts from a 
 very diflant period. This has frequently been deftroyed by the Eng- 
 lifh in their different invafions. The greatefl part of the building, 
 whofe remains are here delineated, were erected about the time of 
 Queen Mary, by George, the fourth Lord Seton, as appears by the 
 infcription on his monument in the adjacent church. There is a tra- 
 dition that this building was never finifhed; but this notion probably 
 refers to the church, whofe fpire was never completed. The flyle of 
 architecture, in the greatefl part of this edifice, would point out the 
 time of its conftruction, was there no other evidence; the ornaments, 
 of which there are a great profufion, being much in the tafte of thofe 
 at Heriot's Hofpital, Edinburgh. The eaftern end of the building 
 feems rather older than the refl, and is not in a line with it, but 
 forms a very obtufe angle. 
 
 The whole, both manfion and church, are inclofed with an outer 
 wall, defended by towers pierced with loop holes for mufquetry. — In 
 the year 1715, a party of the rebels made Seton Houfe a garrifon for 
 fome time, and when they abandoned it, it was occupied by the king's 
 troops. The Rev. Mr. Robert Patten, who relates this circumftance, 
 calls it *' an ancient caftle, very large, encompaffed with a very high 
 " flone wall, but no ditch." 
 
 The Wintons eflate was, about the year 1 779 or 1780, fold in lots; 
 that of Seton church and houfe was purchafcd by Alexander Mac- 
 kenzie, Efq. of Edinburgh, to whom it now (A. D. 1789) belongs. 
 Probably the church, which appears to have been originally parochial, 
 was, after being made collegiate, granted away like thofe of the dif- 
 folved religious houfes. 
 
 This magnificent edifice has flood empty for many years, except that 
 
 fome common tradefmen occupied a corner of it about twenty fix-years 
 
 ago. The fole ufe to which it is now put, is that of a florehoufe for 
 
 the fruit and potatoes raifed by the gardener who occupies the grounds. 
 
 This View was taken A.D. 1789. 
 
 vol. 1. S SETON
 
 66 EDINBURGHSHIRE 
 
 SETON HOUSE. Plate II. 
 
 J. his view fhews the building in a much more perfect ftate, it hav- 
 ing been drawn a great many years ago. There is a tradition, that 
 King Charles the Firft was entertained here with all his retinue. 
 
 SETON CHURCH, EAST LOTHIAN. 
 
 1 his collegiate church, according to the fupplement to Keith's 
 Catalogue of Bifhops, was founded for a provoft, fix prebendaries, 
 two finging boys, and a clerk, out of feveral chaplainries, united for 
 that effect by George, the fecond Lord Seton, the 20th of June, 1493 > 
 the charter of foundation was afterwards confirmed by Andrew, Ab- 
 bot of Newbottle, therein dcfigned Apojloliazfedis Delegatus. He built 
 likewife the Revcftry, or Sacrift, of Seton, and covered it over with 
 ftone, in the reign of King James IV.; and dying a little after, was 
 buried near the high altar of this collegiate church. 
 
 In an ancient MS. pedigree of the Seton family, written by Maitland 
 of Leddington, fecretary to Queen Mary, and from his time continued 
 by Lord Vifcount Kingftoun, the following particulars refpe&ing this 
 church are recorded.* 
 
 Sir Alexander Seton, the third of that name, contemporary with 
 K. Ed. III. who died in the latter days of K. David Bruce, was buried 
 in the parifh church of Seton. From this it feems as if here was a 
 church before the time of George, the fecond Lord Seton, and that he 
 only made it collegiate. Katherine Sinclair, the wife of William the 
 firft Lord Seton, " Biggit ane yle on the fouth fide of the paroch kirk of 
 " Seton, of fine eftlar, pendit and theikit it with ftane, with ane fepul- 
 
 *This pedigree was purchafed with the library of Seton, ofToch.bv Mr. Balfour book- 
 feller, of Edinburgh, who lent it to Captain Robert Riddel, of Glenriddel, who communicated 
 the following extra&s to me. 
 
 " char.
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE 6y 
 
 " char, thairin quhair fhe lies, and founded ane prieft to ferve thair 
 " perpetually. This lady in widowhood dwelt where now are the priests' 
 " chambers in Seton, and planted and made all their yard that they 
 " have zit at this day, and held ane grit houfe and ane honourable." 
 
 John Lord Seton, temp. James the Firft, was buried in Seton 
 church, in the aifle built by his mother. 
 
 Lord George, the third of that name, who was flain at the battle 
 of Flodden, A. D. 15 13, and buried in the choir here; " Theicket 
 " the Queir of Seton with ftane, and repaired the famen with glaifing 
 " windows, maid the defks thairin, and fyllarings above the altar, 
 " and pavementit the faid Queir, and gave it certaine veftements, an 
 " hail compleit stand of claith of gold, and athers of filk." 
 
 Jane, daughter of Patrick Lord Hepburne, widow of this Lord 
 George, after his deceafe, " Biggit the forewark of Seton above the 
 " zet, and alfo fhe biggit the northomofs yll oi the college kirk of 
 " Seton, and took down the yll biggit be Dame Katherine Sinclair, 
 " on the fouth fide of it, the faid college kirk, becaufe the fyde of it 
 " stood to the fyde of the kirk, to mack it a parfe&e and a proper 
 *' cornet and a crofs kirk, and biggit up the fteeple, as ye fee it now, 
 *' to ane grit bight, fwa that it wants little of compleiting. This 
 " ladie gave many ornaments to the kirk of Seton, as ane compleite 
 ** ftand of purple velvet flowred with gold, ane complete ftand of 
 " guhyte camofie velvet flowred with gold, ane compleite ftand of 
 " quhyte dameis, ane compleite ftand of fhamlet of filk, ane com- 
 " pleite ftand of black double worfet, with uther certain chesabiles 
 Ai and veftiments of fundry filks; and alfo gave to the faid kirk ane 
 " grit caifc of filver and eucharist of filver, ane chalice over gilt, ane 
 " pendicle to the hie altar of fine woven arras, with other pendicles. 
 " She loufed the reveftrie, and maid grit lockit alinries thearein; fhe 
 " foundit twa prebendaries, and biggit their chalmers and vaults/' 
 
 In the time of Lord George (the fourth of that name) ** the Eng- 
 " lifhmen, after the burning of Leith and Edinburgh, came and ley 
 " at Seton, burnt and deftroyed the cattle their, fpoilzet the kirk, 
 " took away the belles, organs, and all other turfable things, and put 
 " them in their fhips, and burnt the timber work with the kirk, in 
 " the moneth of May, and year of God 1544 years." 
 
 This
 
 68 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 This edifice stands within the walls of thecaftle or manfion, a fmall 
 diftance to the eaft of it, and feems to have been an elegant building, 
 adorned with fculpture, fome of which is ftill remaining. The fpire, 
 as appears from the preceding account, was never finifhed. The roof 
 is arched, being what is here called, a pend, and covered with flag 
 {tones, with which the floor is alfo paved. 
 
 Here are fome monuments; the following is the moft remarkable, 
 as it gives fome information reflecting the building of the manfion 
 whofe remains are now extant. The infeription confifts of fifty-two 
 lines, contained on one entire flab of marble, five feet fix inches in 
 height, and four feet eight inches in breadth : 
 
 D. p. M. 
 
 Ad Australe Sacelli hujus latus condita funt corpora Georgii Setonii 
 & Ifabellas Hamiltoniae noblifllmarum & yEterna memoria dignifli- 
 marum Animarum Domicilia. 
 
 Georgius, hoc nomine quintus, Setonii Dominus & Familiar Prin- 
 ceps Latifundia et Rem a Majoribus tradita difncillimis Reipub : tem- 
 poribus'honorifice tenuit et Ampliavit. Jacob Quinto Regnante na- 
 tus, Adolefcens, cum in Galliis ageret, Patre optimo orbatus. Ad 
 fuos reverfus, brevi poft Regni ordinum Decreto eodem remittitur, 
 ibique unus Legatorum Maris Regina; & Francifci Francia? Delphini 
 nuptias & Antique Gallorum Scottorumque Foedera Sancivit firma- 
 vitque. Domum regreflus Religionis & Sacrorum Innovatione, Bellis 
 turn externis turn civilibus flagrantem Patriam invenit, cum in Scotia 
 Anglus Galliifque, Germaniis et Hifpaniis, Scoti etiam inter fe dimi- 
 carent. /Edis fuas bis terve ab Anglis incenfas, ct funditus deletas, 
 devaflatis etiam PnEdiis omnibus, in impliorem denuo Splendidio- 
 remque formam reftituit. In omnem Fortunam liber femper et in- 
 trepidus trucidato a perditiffimis hominibus Rege, Acla in Exilium 
 Regina a Prineipium Partibus, Majorum more femper conftans ftetit. 
 Hac firmitate siepe carcere & cuftodia afliiclus, sa;pe in exilium adus 
 & bonis omnibus exutus ejufmodi calamitates innumeras Fidei in Pa- 
 triam et veras Principes Testes, forti animo non modo tulit, fed 
 fprevit et fuperavit. Tandem ab Jacoba Sexto, cujus aufpiciis, pru- 
 de ntia et conciliis Scotia Procellis omnibus & Difficultatibus liberata, 
 
 Splendori
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 69 
 
 Splendori fuo reftituta eft, ipfe etiam honorifice pro mcritis accept 1- 
 et habitus. Majorum Suorum Locum & Dignitatem tenuit, Pri- 
 mufque ab eo ad Hen. III. Galliarum Regem Legatus cum ampliffimis 
 ad firmandam Amicitiam mandatis Mittitur. Quo in muncrc cum 
 gratam acceptamque utrique principum operam Navaret, lethalcm 
 ipfi morbum anteaclas vita; Labores adferunt et Patriam rcdit, intra 
 menfem ad Superos migrat VI. Id Jan. An. Dom. CIDIOLXXXV. 
 ^Etat. circiter LV. 
 
 Domina Ifabella Hamiltonia Nobiliffimis parentibus nata. Patre 
 nimirum D. Willielms de Sanquhar Equite et matre Katherina Ken- 
 nedie CaffilhTee Comitis Filia, Ipfa Forma, Moribus, omnibufque 
 turn Animi turn Corporis Dotibus infignis, et inter asquales praeftans, 
 Georgium hunc Setonii Dominum Maritum nacla, in adverfis illi 
 omnibus adjumento et Solatio, in profperus Ornamento fait. Conjugi 
 chariflimo duodevigenti Annos fuperftes cum communibus Liberia 
 liberaliter et conjuncliffime vixit : quicquid a marito fortunarum ac- 
 ceperat cum natis amantes communicavit, eorumque conatus omnes 
 et honefta Studia Bonis fuis fovit et premovit; nee exiguos Pietatis 
 hujus et Maternae Charitatis Fructus vivens percepit. Liberorum 
 muneribus, Dignitatibus et ornamentis ipfa quoque clarior &illuftrior, 
 donee Senio & Articulorum Doloribus Morbifque afBicla Deo Ani- 
 mam reddidit II. Id. Novemb. Anno Domini CI JIOCVI. annum 
 agens circiter LXXV. Tam Claris Parentibus orta eft haec Soboles. 
 
 Robertus Setonus primogenitus et primus Wentonia; Comes, hoc 
 Titulo ob propria et majorum merita ab Jacobo Sexto ornatus. 
 
 Joannes Eques eidem Regi imprimis charus ab intirms confiliis, 
 Quaestura et pluribus Muneribus Audus, in flore setatis e vivis fub- 
 latus Liberis tamen relicYis. 
 
 Alexander multis Annis Senator, et ab intimis confiliis turn prin- 
 ceps Senatus ab ipfo ordine ele6tus, demum a Rege prudentiftimo qui 
 primus Scotiam Angliamque in unum contulit dominatum, utriufque 
 regni fonuliorum Particeps, Fermelinoduni Comes et Regni Scotia; 
 fa&us eft Cancellarius. 
 
 Willielmus Eques Louthonias Vicecomes et unus turn Scotia; turn 
 Angliae Limitum e Pra;fictis et Procuratoribus. 
 
 Margareta Filia Claudio Hamiltonio Pafleti Domino nupta. Jacobi 
 
 VOL. I. T primi
 
 7 o EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 primi Abercornioe Comitis Mater, totiufque illius Profapias fratrum 
 Sororumque didi Comitis fecunda Parens. 
 
 His Pofteri norint, & tanti veri, Spectataaque adeo Fasminae memo- 
 riam colant, Virtutes iEmulentur, bonifque, Moribus bona Verba 
 Magnorum Virorum Memoria non Minus utilis eft quam Pncfcntia. 
 
 A S. F. C F. F. 
 
 BORTHWICK CASTLE. 
 
 Tins Caftle ftands near twelve miles fouth-eaft of Edinburgh, and 
 about a mile and a half north of Middleton. The following account 
 of it is transcribed from Mr. Pennant: 
 
 " About a mile farther is Borthwick Caftle, feated on a knowl in 
 
 " the midft of a pretty vale, bounded by hills covered with corn and 
 
 " woods; a moft piclurefque fcene. It confifts of a vaft fquare 
 
 rf tower, ninety feet high, with fquare and round baftions at equal 
 
 " diftances from its bafe. The ftate rooms are on the firft ftory, once 
 
 " acceffible by a drawbridge; fome of the apartments were very large, 
 
 " the hall forty feet long, and had its mufic gallery ; the roof lofty, 
 
 " and once adorned with paintings. This Caftle was built by a Lord 
 
 *' Borthwick, once a potent family. In the vault lies one of the name, 
 
 '* in armour and a little bonnet, with his lady by him : on the fide 
 
 " are numbers of little elegant human figures. The place was once 
 
 " the property of the Earl of Bothwell, who, a little before the bat- 
 
 •' tie of Carberry Hill, took refuge here with his fair confort*." 
 
 In the MS. of Midlothian, before quoted, the Caftle of Borthwick is 
 faid to be ■' a great and ftrong tower, all of Allure work within and 
 " without, and of great height ; the wall thereof being above fifteen 
 *' feet of thicknefs. It has an excellent well-fpring in the bottom 
 " without digging, and a houfe of good lodgings and well lighted." 
 
 * Critical Enquiry, &c. third edition, 289. 
 
 DAL-
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 71 
 
 DALHOUSIE CASTLE. Pi ate I. 
 
 13at-housie Castle {lands near eight miles fouth-eaft of Edinburgh 
 and two miles fouth-eaft of Lafwade. It is, and has very long been, 
 the property of the ancient family of Ramfay, one of whom was 
 created Lord Ramfay Auguft 25, 1618, by King James VI., and 
 Earl of the Caftle of Dalhoufie, in Midlothian, June 19, 1633, by 
 King Charles I. 
 
 In the MS. defcription of Midlothian, among Mr. M'Farlan's col- 
 lection in the Advocate's library, Edinburgh, this Caftle is defcribed 
 in the following words : 
 
 " The Caftle of Dalhoufie upon the South Efke is a ftrong and 
 *' large caftle, with a large wall of Aflure work going round about 
 " the fame, with a tower upon ilk corner thereof." 
 
 The prefent edifice was mod probably creeled on the foundation 
 of a more ancient building, as, from the ftyle of its architecture, 
 part of it does not feem older than the middle of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury. 
 
 It has, even within the memory of perfons now living, undergone 
 diverfe mutations; thefe, though they may have made it a more com- 
 fortable dwelling, have not added to its pi&urefque appearance. 
 
 By the favour of a very ingenious gentleman, I am enabled to 
 Ihew its original form, and alfo its appearance, before the laft alte- 
 ration. 
 
 These views were taken within the walls. 
 
 It is remarked, that there is a great general likenefs between this 
 Caftle and that of Dirteton. If the time could be afcertained when 
 either of them was firft built, a very probable conjecture might be 
 formed of the date of the other. 
 
 This plate ftiews the Caftle as it was when firft built. 
 
 DJLHOU-
 
 7 z EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 DJLHOUSIE CASTLE. Plate. II. 
 
 1 his View fhews the Caftle as it appeared before the laft altera- 
 tion. 
 
 H ADDING-
 
 ■ 
 
 >"j ^?&mf 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 z*> 
 
 -
 
 ( 73 ) 
 
 HADDINGTONSHIR E. 
 
 GULANE CHURCH. 
 
 L his ruin is the remains of the ancient church of Gulane, which 
 once ferved that place and the whole parifh of Dirleton, for which 
 the vicar had, A.D. 1268, an annual falary of twelve marks, till the 
 year 1612, when the church was, by a 61 of parliament, tranflated 
 to Dirleton. The laft vicar of Gulane is faid to have been depofed 
 by King James VI. for the high crime of fmoaking tobacco — a weed 
 which his majefty deemed only fit for diabolical fumigations. 
 
 The following particulars refpecting the church occur in Douglas's 
 Baronage, Nifbet, and other authors : 
 
 Johannes de Vallibus, Lord of Dirleton, gave in pure and per- 
 petual alms to the epifcopal fee of Glafgow, ten marks of the farms 
 of his land of Golyn, dated at Edinburgh, 18th April, 1249, which 
 is ratified by King Alexander III. June 4, in the 24th year of his 
 reign. — Nifbet's Appendix, p. 250. 
 
 William, rector of the church of Gulane, had a long conteii 
 with Sir Walter de Congalton concerning the rights of the chapel of 
 Congalton, founded by the anceftors of his family. The difpute 
 was at laft fubmitted by both parties to William, Bifhop of St. An- 
 drews, in 1224, who determined it to both their iatisfa&ions, as is 
 fully recorded in the chartulary of Dryburgh. 
 
 Roger, third fon to Sir John Congalton of that ilk, had a fon, Sir 
 Andrew Congalton, prefbyter, who founded the Trinity Altar in 
 Gullen kirk. Sir John Congalton, fecond fon to Henry Congalton 
 of that ilk, who was bred to the church, obtained from George Dun- 
 bar, Lord St. John's preceptor of Torpichen, a confirmation of the 
 foundation of the Trinity Altar in Gullen Kirk, by the faid Sir An- 
 
 vol. 1. U drew
 
 74 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 drew Congalton, declaring the faid Henry Congalton of that ilk to 
 be patron thereof. Dated 18th May, 1526. — Douglas s Baronage. 
 
 Of this building there was {landing, A.D. 1789, the nave, the choir, 
 and a north tranfept. From the flyle of its architecture it feems of 
 great antiquity, the nave being divided from the choir by a circular 
 arch, decorated with a dancette, or zig-zag ornament. On each fide 
 of a pointed arch, leading out the north tranfept, is a fhield of arms; 
 the wefternmoft quarterly, a bend and chequer; the eafternmofr. party 
 per pale, the bend and chequer as before ; and on the finifter fide, 
 beneath a chief charged with three mullets of five points, a lion ram- 
 pant, over it the letters H. C. and A. Y. ; probably there were fome 
 letters over the other coat; but if there were, they have been effaced. 
 
 The church meafures 128 feet in length, 20 feet in breadth in the 
 nave, and 16 in the choir. 
 
 From the number of modern tomb-ftones in and about it, it feems 
 to have been lately ufed as a burial place. 
 
 Near this church flood a fmall monaftery foundation, faid to have 
 been a cell to the Ciftertian Nuns of Berwick upon Tweed, founded 
 bv Kin? David the Firff. 
 
 D1RLETON CASTLE. Plate. I. 
 
 I h;e builder of this Caflle, and the time of its ereclion, are both un- 
 known. It is mentioned in hiflory as early as the year 1298. It then 
 belonged to one of the family of de Vallibus, or de Vaux ; and when 
 King Edward I invaded Scotland by the eaflern borders, furrendered 
 to Anthony Beck, Bifhop of Durham, after a very obflinate defence. 
 
 Heming fays, "that at the fiege of Dirleton, in Eaft Lothian, 
 " about the beginning of July, 1298, the Englifh foldiers were re- 
 " duced to great fcarcity of provifions : they fubfifled on the pcafe 
 " and beans which they picked up in the fields." 
 
 " This circumftance," fays Dalrymple, (from whom this article 
 is tranferibed) " prefents us with a favourable view of the flate of 
 " agriculture in Eaff. Lothian, as far back as the thirteenth century." 
 
 In
 
 H A D D I N G T O N S II I R E. 
 
 In the wardrobe account of the 28th of Edward I. A. D. 1299 anc * 
 1300, we find many entries of provifion given, by the king's order, 
 to Robert de Malo Lacu for victualling; his Caftle of Dirlcton. A. D. 
 1306, by a record in Rymcr, it appears that Aymer de Valence was 
 directed to feize the Caftle of Dirlton into the king's hands, with all 
 its appurtenances, lands and tenements, and all the goods and chat- 
 tels found in the faid Caftle, which was to be furnifhed with muni- 
 tion, and delivered to the brother of Mr. John de Kyngefton to keep 
 it till the King fhould give other orders. 
 
 In the reign of King Robert I. John Haliburton acquired the Lord- 
 fhip of Dirleton, by marrying the daughter and coheirefs of William 
 de Vallibus. In 1402 it belonged to Thomas Haliburton, who was 
 one of the chieftains appointed by Archibald Earl of Douglas to at- 
 tend the motions of the Ensjifh. 
 
 A.D. 1440 Sir Walter Halyburton, Lord High Treafurer of Scot- 
 land, was created a Peer by the title of Lord Dirleton. About the 
 beginning of the laft century this Lordfhip belonged to J. Maxwell, 
 a zealous royalift, who was by King Charles I. created Lord Dirleton; 
 he ruined his cftate by his attachment to the royal caufe, and foon 
 after the reftoration it came into poffeffion of Sir John Nilbet, King's 
 Advocate, in whofe family it now (A. D. 1789) remains, and is the 
 property of Nifbet, Efq. who has a handfome feat near it. Dur- 
 ing the civil wars in the laft century it was taken by General Lambert 
 after a gallant defence, and by him reduced to its prefent ruinous ftate. 
 The account given in the laft edition of Camden, of the proprietors 
 of this Caftle, differs from the above; it is as follows: " Dirlton, not 
 "far from North Berwick, belonged to the family of Ruihven, till for- 
 " feited by them. James VI. gave it to Sir Thomas Erlkine, captain 
 ''of the Englifh Guard, for his happy valour in preferving him from 
 " the traitorous attempts of Gowrie, firft creating him Baron Dirlton, 
 " afterwards, 1606, Vifcount Fenton: the firft Vifcount that ever was 
 " in Scotland. It was anciently the feat of the Nefbets, of eminence 
 " in the profefiion of the law, by which they gained their ample for- 
 " tune. Sir James Maxwell of the bedchamber was created by 
 
 James
 
 ;6 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 " James VI. Lord Elbotle and Earl of Dirlton : but leaving no iffue 
 " the title is now extincl." 
 
 The following defcription of thisparifh is tranfcribed from a manu- 
 fcript account by Mr. Buchan among Mr. M'Farlan's collection in the 
 Advocate's Library, Edinburgh: "The parifh ofDirletoun, in the 
 " fhire of Eaft Lothian, hath to the eaft the parifh of North Berwick, 
 " to the fouth the pariih of Athelftonford, to the fouth weft the pa- 
 " rifh of Aberladie, and is bounded on the north by the fea." 
 
 Close at the village jufr/mentioned (i. e. Dirletoun) ftand the ruins 
 of the Caftle of Dirleton, built upon a rock, which was the ancient 
 manfion houfe of the Lords of Dirletoun, and was demolifhed by the 
 Englifhmen Anno 1650. 
 
 The parifh church ftood of old in the village of Gulan, from which 
 the pariih had alfo its name, and where the ruins of it and the old burial 
 place are yet remaining, about a mile and a half weft from Dirletoun. 
 
 This view was drawn A. D. 1787. 
 
 7HE CIS TE RTIAN NU N N E RT 
 At North Berwick. PLATE I. 
 
 .As the author of the Supplement to Keith's catalogue of the Bifhops 
 and Sir James Dalrymple differ in their accounts refpecling the foun- 
 dation of this nunnery, they are here both fubmitted to the reader: 
 though, from the known abilities and accuracy of Sir James, his re- 
 lation has the fuperior claim to our preference. 
 
 " North Berwick (fays the author of the lift) towards the mouth 
 " of the Frith of Forth, in the fhire of Haddington, confecrated to the 
 " Virgin Mary, and founded by Malcolm, fon of Duncan, Earl of 
 " Fife, in the year 11 16. Adam de Kilconcath, Comes de Carrick, 
 •* confirms to the nuns of this place the donation of the patronage of 
 " the church of Kilconchar (formerly given them by his predeceiTbrs) 
 " by his original charter, dated at Kilconchar in the year 1266. This 
 " is afterwards confirmed by Gamelinus, Biihop of St. Andrews, in 
 
 " the
 
 % 
 
 IS 
 
 hj
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 77 
 
 " the year 1271. Dame Ifabel Home, daughter to Alexander Home 
 " of Pol wart, priorefs of this place, gives to her kinfman, Alcxan- 
 " der Home, in Feu, the tiend-lheaves of Largo church, in Fife, in 
 "' the year 1532 : and Dame Margaret Home, likcwiie priorefs of this 
 " place, and daughter of the fame family, gives a tack of the par- 
 " fonage tiends of Logie, in the diocefe of Damblane, to Sir Patrick 
 " Home of Polwart and his heirs, the 24th of March, 1555. The 
 " lands of Methritch and Kirkamfton, with the churches of Mayboil 
 " and Kilbride, &c. belonged to this place." 
 
 The account given by Sir James is as follows: '' Here was a mo- 
 " naftery of nuns at North Berwick, founded by Duncan, Earl of 
 " Fife, which was governed by a prior and priorefs. This was Dun- 
 '' can, Earl of Fife, the elder, who died* anno 1 154. I have feen a 
 " charter by King David confirming Elemofinam tllam quam Dune- 
 " cajius comes dedlt Monialibus de North Berwick & terram quo: dicitur 
 fi Glllecameflon, Teftibus Waltero Cancellario, Adam Capellano & Hu- 
 " gone de Morvill. To Duncan, Earl of Fife, who died anno 1154, 
 " fucceeded Duncan his fon, alfo Earl of Fife, who gave to the mo- 
 " nailery the lands ofMuthritht in Fife, and other lands, which are 
 " confirmed by King William ; and alfo the donation by Duncan, the 
 " elder Earl of Fife, of the lands of Kirkamllown, and of two hof- 
 " pitals; fo it is like that Earl Duncan the elder was the founder, and 
 " that the church had been originally the cell or kirk of a religious 
 " perfon, called Campfton, which was then dedicated to the bleifed 
 " Virgin Mary, and the hofpital turned from the firft ufe, and the 
 " rent applied to the monaftery. I have feen King David's confirma- 
 " tion, and that by King William, and one by Duncan earl of Fife, 
 '* and many other charters by the Kings, the Earls of Fife and Duncan, 
 rt and Adam de Kilconcath, Earls of Carrick, and by Bifhops and 
 " other great men, to that monaftery, but were unfortunately burnt 
 " in the great fire at Edinburgh in the year 1700, and a few only pre- 
 
 Cliron. St. Cruris a«.i Ann. 1154. 
 
 vol. I. K " fcrved,
 
 78 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 " fervcd, which were not in the fame houfe with the reft. The char- 
 " ter by the Earl Duncan the younger, confirming that of his father, 
 " is extant." 
 
 This view, which mews the north front, was drawn A.D. 1789, 
 
 THE CI&TERTI AN N U N N E R 1\ 
 PLATE II. 
 
 x his ruin ftands on an eminence a fmall diftance north weft of the 
 town of North Berwick, and commands a delightful view of the fea r 
 the ifland of Bafs, and a conical hill, feen afar off, called North 
 Berwick Law. 
 
 Of the Nunnery, part of the lodgings, fome of the offices, and 
 a gate, are remaining; and alfo fome very large vaults. The whole 
 clofe in which it ftands is filled with foundations. 
 
 The fite of thi3 monaftery, with great part of the adjacent coun- 
 try, is the property of Sir Hugh Dalrymple, Bart. 
 
 This plate (hews the weftern afpeil of the ruin. It was drawn 
 A.D. 1789. 
 
 THE CISTE RT UN NUNNERT. 
 PLATE III. 
 
 ri^ 
 
 tti ..... 
 
 A his view fhews the vaults mentioned in the former defenption, and 
 
 the hill, called North Berwick Law; on the top of which two bones 
 of a whale have been lately fet up. Thefe conical hills, or mounts, 
 called Laws, of which there are feveral in the fouth of Scotland, 
 are by fome naturalifts fuppofed to be the efteds of former volcanic 
 eruptions. 
 
 This view was drawn 1789. 
 
 RUIN
 
 
 , :, '■■■■, ,,(, 
 
 : 
 
 M
 
 e 
 
 -a 
 
 M 
 
 ad 
 
 9 
 
 — 
 
 
 *is 
 
 
 ¥*.«!' ' 
 
 111
 
 m 

 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 79 
 
 RUIN ON THE SHORE OF NORTH BERWICK. 
 
 A ins piclurefque little ruin {lands on a fmall fandy mount on the 
 fliore of North Berwick, a little to the eaftward of the harbour. 
 
 Various are the opinions and reports concerning it, fome making 
 it a chapel belonging to the adjacent nunnery, others the chapel of 
 an hofpital or hermitage; but no proofs in fupport ot either of thefe 
 opinions are adduced from hiftory or records. 
 
 The adjacent ground appears to have been ufed as a burial place r 
 from the number of human bones fcattered about it. 
 
 This view was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 T ANT ALLON CAST LE. Plate!. 
 
 _/\. very diligent fearch through a variety of books for information - 
 refpecling the building of this Caftle has not been attended with fuc- 
 cefs, nothing appearing in any of them tending to ascertain either 
 its builder, or. the time of its ereclion. From the ftyle of its archi- 
 tecture, it feems of considerable antiquity. It ftands a little more 
 than two miles eaft of the town of North Berwick, on a high rock 
 overlooking the fea, which furrounds it on three fides, its fhapc being 
 half an irregular hexagon. Much of the building is remaining, 
 though in a ruinous ftate. It is encompaiTed towards the landfide by 
 a double ditch, the inner one very deep. The entrance was over a 
 drawbridge, through a ftrong gate, which, with fome other parts of 
 the wall, is built with a rough frone, banded at certain diftances with 
 fquare ftone. A riling ground covers the ditches and lower parts of 
 the wall, fo as to render them invifible to perfons approaching it. 
 
 This Caftle, with the Barony, was, in the laft century, fold bv the 
 Marquis of Douglafs to Sir Hugh Dalrymple, in whofe family it iliil 
 continues. 
 
 It
 
 So HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 It was formerly one of the ftrong holds of the Douglaffes, and 
 was held for fome time againft King James V. His fiege of it, in 
 the year 1527, is thus related by Lindfay of Pitfcottie : 
 
 " Further, the King made proclamations to Fife, Angus, £tra- 
 ■" them, Stirlinfhire, Lothian, Merfe, and Teviotdale, to compear at 
 *' Edinburgh the tenth day ofDecember, in the year 1527, with forty 
 " days victuals, to pafs with him to Tantallon, to fiege the fame; 
 '' and, to that effect, gart fend to the Caftle of Dunbar, to Captain 
 " Morice, to borrow fome artillery, and laid great pledges for the 
 " fame, becaufe the Caftle was then in the Duke of Albany's hand, 
 " and the artillery thereof his own; but it was ever at the King's plea- 
 " fure, when he had ought ado, and that by the command of the 
 " faid Duke of Albany : but yet, for reftoring and delivering of the 
 " fame, and obferving of a good order, caufed three lords to pafs in 
 " pledge for the faid artillery, till it were delivered again and re- 
 ■" ceived the fame, in manner as after follows; that is to fay, two 
 " sireat cannons thrown mouthed, mow and her marrow, with two 
 " great botcards and two moyans, two double falcons, and four quar- 
 " tcr falcons, with their powder and bullets, and gunners for to ufe 
 ■' them, conform to the King's pleafure. Syne paft forward to Tan- 
 " tallon, and fieged the fame, the fpace of twenty days; but they 
 " came no fpeed : whether the Caftle was fo ftrong, or the gunners 
 ''corrupted by the Earl of Angus's moyen, I cannot tell; but the 
 " King left it, and was conftrained to depart home to Edinburgh with- 
 " out any fuccefs of victory, or any hope of winning the faid Caftle, 
 " and had both many men and horfes flain at the purfuit of the faid 
 " Caftle ; and, at his returning, had a noble Captain of war flain, 
 " called David Falconer, who was murdered cruelly by the hands of 
 " Archibald Douglas, umquhile treafurer, and father-brother to the 
 " faid Earl: at whofe daughter the King was heavily difpleafed, and 
 " lamented the fame greatly, cafting all his ingine, that he might, by 
 " his counfel, to obtain the Caftle of Tantallon, knowing well, if 
 " he had the Caftle, there would be no refuge to the Earl, nor his 
 " friends, in that country : therefore he cauled fundry Lords and Gen- 
 " tiemen to ma^e moyen with the faid Captain, called Simeon Pan- 
 " nango, promiiing him great gifts and rewards, both of lands and 
 
 " gear,
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 8i 
 
 " gear, with the King's fpecial favour, and remit of all things by pa (I 
 " tu the faid ( , his brother, friends and fervants, whom he 
 
 '* deiiied. except the Dou^latfes. 
 
 " Of thir offers, the Captain took to be advifed till a certain day, 
 " and fyne promifed to give tUe king an anfwer, conform to his Ma- 
 "jelly's defire : and, in the mean time, the faid Captain fent to the 
 '' Earl, Archibald and George, to wit, what was their minds, fhew- 
 " ing that he was evil victualed, and wanted artillery, powder, and 
 " bullets ; and therefore defired the faid Earl and his friends to furnifh 
 " him thereof within a certain day, or otherwife it were force to him 
 " to render the aforefaid Caftle to the King, or others in his name that 
 '•' purfued it. 
 
 " The Earl hearing this meffage, was nowife content thereof, be- 
 " caufe he knew well he could no ways fupport him, neither with ar- 
 u tillery, powder, nor bullets, becaufe he had none at that time, nor 
 " could provide none haftily; nor yet could he furnifli them with 
 " \iduals, neither by fea nor land, becaufe the King had watches on 
 " them : that is to fay, fhips on the fea, 1 and gentlemen on the land, 
 " ever watching that no furnifhing fhould come to the faid Caftle. 
 
 " The Captain waiting for an anfwer of his mafter the Earl, and 
 f* feeing no fupport to come to him by the faid Earl and his friends, 
 " appointed with the King, and rendered the faid Caftle to him, on 
 <c their conditions, as after follows: that is to fay, that the King fhould 
 " remit the faid Captain all offences done by him to his Majefty, or 
 " otherwife contrary to the common weal; andfhall give a free remif- 
 " fion thereof to him and his friends and fervants, and fhall grant to 
 " him all bag and baggage ; and the King fhall have the faid Caftle, 
 " with artillery and weapons ufed in defence of the faid place, but all 
 " other furnifhings, as gold, fiver, clothings, and abuilziements and 
 " victuals, fhall be the faid Captain's, to difpone at his pleafure. 
 
 " Of this appointment the King and the Council were very well 
 " content, and received the faid Caftle of Tantallon from Simeon the 
 " Captain, and rewarded him according to the King's promife. Shortly 
 «' after the King gart garnifh it with men of war and artillery, and put 
 •'in a new Captain, to wit, Oliver Sinclair ; and caufed mafons to 
 " come and ranforce the walls, which were left wade before, as trances 
 
 vol. I. Y " and
 
 8z HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 " and thorow paflages, and made all maffcy work, to the effect that 
 " it fhould be more able in time coming to any enemies that would 
 " come to purfue it. 
 
 There is a tradition among the foldiers, that the Scots march now 
 beat was firft compofed for the troops going on this fiege, and that it 
 was meant to exprefs the words, Ding down Tantallm. 
 
 This Caftlc was deftroyed in 1639 by the Covenanters, the Mar- 
 quis of Douglafs having favoured the caufe of King Charles I. At 
 prefent it is entirely in ruins. 
 
 From this place is a view of the Bafs and the Ifle of May. The 
 former is a fmall ifland, or infulated rock, within the Forth, about a 
 mile diftant from the fouth ihore, inacceffible on all fides, except by 
 one narrow paffage. Upon the top of this rock there is a fpring, 
 which fufficiently furnimed water for the garrifon of a fmall caftle 
 (now neglected): there is alfo pafture for twenty or thirty fheep, and a 
 fmall warren of rabbits: but this rock is more particularly famous for 
 the great flock of fea fowls which refort thither in the months of May 
 and June, the furface of it being almoft covered with their nefts, eggs, 
 and young birds. The moil efteemed among thefe birds is the Solon 
 Goofe and the Kittie Waickc, there being only one other place, that 
 is an ifland in the weft of Scotland, called Ailfcy, where thefe geefe 
 breed ; and from thefe two places the country is furnifhed with them 
 during the months of July and Auguft. The ifland of the Bafs was 
 an ancient poffeffion of the family of Lauder, who for a long time re- 
 fufed to fell it, though folicited to it by feveral kings. King James VI. 
 told the then Laird, he would give him whatever he pleafed to afk for 
 it. To which he anfwered, " Your Majefty muft e'en refign it to 
 " me, for ill have the aid craig back again." However, the family at 
 length coming to decay, it was in the year 1.67 1 purchafed by King 
 Charles II. during whofe reign, and that of his brother James, it was 
 made a ftate prifon, where the weftern people, in thofe days called 
 Cameronians, were confined for being in arms againft the King. Af- 
 ter the Revolution a defperate crew of people got pofleflion of it: and 
 having a large boat, which they hoifted up on the rock, or let down at 
 pleafure, committed feveral piracies, took a great many veffels, and held 
 out the laft of any place in Great Britain for King James; but their boat 
 
 being
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 8 3 
 
 being at length either feized or loft, and not receiving their accuftomed 
 fupply of provifions from France, they were obliged to furrcnder. 
 
 A cavern runs through this rock from north weft to fouth eaft; 
 it is quite dark in the center, where there is a deep pool of water, 
 from thence it widens toward both apertures; that at the fouth-eaft 
 fide is the higheft. 
 
 The Ifle of May was formerly dedicated to St. Adrian, who was 
 martyred there by the Danes, and afterwards a religious houfe was 
 erected there in memory of him. This ifland is a mile long from 
 north to fbuth, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It lies feven 
 miles from the coaft of Fife, has a frefh-water fpring, and a frnall 
 lake. No corn grows there, but in the fummer it affords pafturage 
 for one hundred fheep and twenty black cattle. The weft fide is in- 
 acceflible becaufe of high rocks, but the eaft fide is plain, and has 
 four places where boats may put in ; one of them a fafe harbour for 
 fhips during a ftrong weft wind. There are great quantities of fifti 
 on the coaft of this ifland, and it abounds with a variety of fea fowl. 
 It formerly belonged to the priory of Pittenweem, but was granted 
 in fee by King Charles I. to Cunningham of Burns, with liberty to 
 build a lighthoufe there for the benefit of fhips; for the maintenance of 
 which they were to allow two-pence per ton: a tower of forty feet 
 high was built there for that purpofe, in which a fire is lighted every 
 night. The firft builder was eaft away in returning from thence to 
 his houfe in Fife, in a tempeft, fuppofed to have been raifed by witch- 
 craft, for which fome poor old women were tried, condemned, and 
 executed. This view was drawn A. D. 1787* 
 
 TJNTJLLON CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 JL his view fhews the outfide of the Caftle, with the gate. It was 
 drawn A.D. 1789. The infide has lately been converted into a garden. 
 Pieces of bombs, cannon balls, and broken arms, are frequently found 
 here; and likewife fmall copper coins of King Charls I. and II. 
 
 HAD-
 
 84 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 HADDINGTON CHURCH. 
 
 ± ins church, now parochial, is commonly, hut erroneoufly, Tup 
 pofed to have belonged to the nunnery founded by Ada, Countefs of 
 Northumberland, but was in reality the church of the Francifcans, 
 of whofe foundation the following account is given in the Appendix 
 to Keith's Catalogue : " Haddington, there was alfo a monaftery of 
 " Friars in this place, where William, firft Lord Seton, was buried, 
 " who gave them fix loads of coals, to be taken weekly out of his 
 " coal-pit at Tranent, and the value of three pounds annually out of 
 " the barns." 
 
 Edward I. defaced this place; the quire of which was called Lu- 
 cerna Laudoniae, becaufe of its beautiful ftruclure. 
 
 It appears by our manufcript hiftories, that upon the feftival day 
 of St. Ninian, in the year 1421, the waters by conftant rain fwelled to 
 fuch height, that there were a great many houfes entirely defaced 
 in this place, and the people went into the church in a great boat ; fo 
 that the Sacrifty, with their fine library and ornaments for divine fer- 
 vice, were fpoiled. 
 
 In fupport of the opinion that this was the Francifcan church, I 
 have been favoured by a friend with the following letter, written by 
 an ingenious clergyman refident near the place ; 
 " SIR, 
 " I am favoured with your's of the 28th of laft month ; and in 
 " anfvver to it am to acquaint you, that I am decidedly of opinion that 
 " our prefent parifh church formerly belonged to the Francifcans, or 
 " Minorites, and is the fame that is ftyled by Fordun and John Major, 
 " Lucerna Laudoniae. As a proof that it belonged to the Francis- 
 " can's, the ground adjoining to the church yard is (till denominated 
 " the Friars' Croft. The convent ftood nearly on the fame fpot where 
 " an epifcopal chapel has been lately built, and fome of its ruins 
 " were dug out and removed a few years ago, fo that not a veftige 
 " of it now remains. In what part of the town the Dominican church 
 " and monaftery ftood 1 have not been able to diicover, as the town 
 
 " is
 
 N 
 
 i
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 8 
 
 o 
 
 " is pofTefTed of no public records of any kind prior to the beginning 
 " of the laft century; and the town was not only almoft entirely de- 
 " ftroyed during the memorable fiege about the middle of the fixteenth 
 " century, but fince that time was almoft wholly confumed by fire." 
 
 A farther proof that this was the Francifcan church, arifes from 
 the circumftance of that houfe having fuffered by a flood ; an event 
 very likely to happen from its vicinity to the river. 
 
 In Douglas's Baronage, page 521, there is an entry of the follow- 
 ing benefaction to this houfe: — " Sir John Congleton made a donation 
 " (in which he is defigned Nobilis Vir domhius de EodumJ to the Mi- 
 " norites of Haddington, for the devotion he had to the fouls of his 
 " father and mother for furnifhing bread and wine to the altar of St. 
 " Duthacus, fituate in the nave of the church of the faid Minorites, 
 " near to which the bodies of his father and mother are buried ; and 
 " the faid Minorites are obliged to celebrate the anniverfary of the faid 
 " John, his father and mother, his anceftors and fuccefTors, at the faid 
 " altar, fo long as there fhall be three brethren in the faid convent." 
 
 The weftern part of this building is now ufed as the parifh church 
 for the town of Haddington. In a chapel here is the cemetery of the 
 Lauderdale family. This view was drawn A. D. 1787. 
 
 THE CASTLE OF DUNBAR. Plate II. 
 
 J. his Caftle is fituated on a reef of rocks projecting into the fca, 
 which in many places runs under them through caverns formed by 
 fiflures in the ftone. 
 
 It is of great antiquity; but the time of its erection is not known. 
 Dunbar Caftle is mentioned as early as the year 856, when it was 
 burned by Kenneth King of Scotland. It was long deemed one of 
 the keys of the kingdom. 
 
 In 1073 it appears to have belonged to the Earls of March. 
 
 Anno 1296, the Earl of March having joined King Edward I., 
 this Caftle was by his wife delivered up to the Scots; upon which Earl 
 Warren, with a chofen body of troops, was fent to take it. The 
 
 vol. t, Z whole
 
 86 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 whole force of Scotland was affembled to oppofe them, who, trufting 
 to their numbers, rufhed down the heights on the Englifh ; but being 
 repulfed with great lofs, the Caftle fhortly after furrendered. 
 
 A.D. \zgg, the King gave to Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, 200I. fter- 
 ling, partly in money, and partly in provifions, for providing this 
 Caftle with military ftores and provifions. 
 
 A.D. 13 14, King Edward II. after his defeat at the battle of Ban- 
 nochburne, took refuge in this Caftle, where he was received by the 
 Earl of March ; and from thence went by fea to Berwick in his way 
 to England. 
 
 A.D. 1333, Dunbar Caftle was demolished, as appears from Hcdor 
 Boetius, who fays, " That Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, having, on the 
 " arrival of the Englifh, difmantled it, and razed it to the ground, 
 " defpairing to keep it, King Edward III. obliged him to rebuild it 
 " at his own expence, and to admit an Englifh garrifon therein." 
 
 A.D. 1337-8. this Caftle, which Buchannan fays had been newly 
 fortified, was befieged by the earl oi Salisbury. The Earl of March 
 being abfent, it was defended by his wife; from the darknefs of her 
 complexion, vulgarly called Black Agnes. This lady, during the liege, 
 performed all the duties of a bold and vigilant commander, animating 
 the garrifon by her exhortations, munificence, and example. When 
 the battering engines of the befiegers hurled ftones againft the battle- 
 ments, fhe, as in fcorn, being, as John Major obferves, full of taunts, 
 ordered one of her female attendants to wipe off the dirt with her 
 handkerchief: and when the Earl of Salifbury commanded that enor- 
 mous machine, called the Sow, to be advanced to the foot of the walls, 
 fhe fcoftingly advifed him to take good care of his Sow, for fhe fhould 
 foon make her caft her Pigs, (meaning the men within it) and then 
 ordered a huge rock to be let fall on it, which crufhed it to pieces. 
 
 The Earl of Salifbury, finding fo ftout a refiftance, attempted to 
 f*ain the Caftle by treachery, and accordingly bribed the perfon who 
 had the care of the gates to leave them open. This he agreed to do, 
 but difclofed the whole tranfa&ion to the Countefs. 
 
 Salisbury himfelf commanded the party who were to enter, and, 
 according to agreement, found the gates of the caftle open, and was ad- 
 vancing at the head of his men, when John Copeland, one of his attend- 
 ants,
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 8; 
 
 ants, haftily paffing before him, the Portcullis was let down, and 
 Copeland, miftaken for his lord, remained a prifoner. Agnes, who 
 from a high tower was obferving the event, cried out to Salifbury, 
 jeeringly, " Farewell, Montague : I intended that you fhould have 
 " fupped with us, and affifted in defending this fortrefs againft the 
 " Engl'fh." John Major fays, the Earl of Salifbury would have been 
 taken, had he not been pulled back by fome of his followers. 
 
 The Englifh, thus unfuccefsful in their attempts, turned the fiege 
 into a blockade, clofely environed the Caftle by fea and land, and 
 drove to famifh the garrifon, when Alexander Ramfay having heard 
 of the extremities to which Dunbar was reduced, embarked with forty 
 refolute men, eluded the vigilance of the Englifh, and taking the 
 advantage of a dark night, entered the Caftle by a poftern next the 
 fea, and fallying out, attacked and difperfed the advanced guards. 
 The Englifh commander, difheartened by fo many unfortunate events, 
 at length withdrew his forces, after having remained before Dunbar 
 during nineteen weeks. He even confented to a ceflation of arms, 
 and departing into the fouth, cntrufted the care of the borders to 
 Robert Manners, William Heron, and other Northumbrian Barons. 
 
 A.D. 1475, Alexander, Duke of Albany, having efcaped from con- 
 finement in the Caftle of Edinburgh, tied to this Caftle, which then 
 belonged to him. Here he was fhortly after befieged by the King's 
 troops; and finding he could not hold out againft them, took refuge 
 in France; as did alfo the garrifon, who after being reduced to great 
 extremities, betook themfelves to fea in fmall veflels. 
 
 Anno 1484, this caftle was in the hands of the Englifh, when the 
 following articles refpecTing it were concluded by a Congrefs of Ple- 
 nipotentiaries, held at Nottingham, where a truce for three years was 
 agreed on. The Caftle of Dunbar, with the bounds belonging to it, 
 was to enjoy an undifturbed ceffation of arms for- the certain term of 
 fix months, from the commencement of the general truce then con- 
 cluded. This truce, with the caftle, to continue during the remain- 
 der of the three years of the general truce, if the King of Scotland 
 did not, in fix weeks after its commmencement, notify to the King of 
 England that it was not his pleafure that the Caftle of Dunbar fhould 
 be comprehended in the truce longer than fix months; in which cafe, 
 
 if
 
 88 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 it hoftilities fhould commence, they mould be confined folely to the 
 attack and defence of that Caftle, and mould no ways infringe the 
 general truce. 
 
 It appears that the King of Scotland was by his parliament repeat- 
 edly advifed to give notice, and befiege this Caftle within the time 
 limited; but that though he made fome preparations for it, nothing 
 iarther was done during the life of King Richard III. 
 
 The internal commotions attending the great revolution, by which 
 King Henry VII. was feated on the throne of England, it is probable, 
 fo totally occupied the council of that nation, as to caufe fo remote an 
 objecl: as the Caftle of Dunbar to be little attended to. King James 
 availing himfelf of that favourable opportunity, laid fiege to it in win- 
 ter, and obliged the garrifon to furrendcr on terms. This did not break 
 the truce, which was fhortly after renewed with fome trifling alterations, 
 the Kings of both nations having ftrong rcafons for defiring peace. 
 
 A.D. 1547, in the Duke of Somerfet's expedition, which produced 
 the battle of Pinkey, the Englifh army marched paft this Caftle without 
 attacking it, though, according to Patten it fired feveral fhot at them. 
 In a treaty made between Queen Elizabeth and Francis and Mary, 
 A. D. 1560, it was ftipulated, that all the French troops in the dif- 
 ferent garrifons in Scotland fhould be carried back to France, except 
 an hundred and twenty, to be left in the forts of Dunbar and Ench- 
 keith,' fixty in each, and proper regulations to be made to prevent 
 thefe garrifons becoming oppreflive to the country. Certain new 
 works, erected at Dunbar fince the beginning of the late troubles, 
 were to be thrown down without delay, and no fortifications were to 
 be henceforth eredted anew, or augmented, or thofe now demoliftied 
 to be repaired without the confent of the ftates. The Englifti army, 
 who at this time began their march to Berwick, as they pafled 
 Dunbar, took care to fee that the new works lately added to that 
 fortrefs were demoliftied according to this treaty. 
 
 In 1565, after the death of Rizzio, Queen Mary retired to this 
 Caftle, where fhe was joined by a number of her friends; and in 1567 
 the and Bothwell, having fled from Edinburgh, were purfued with 
 fuch vigour by a party of horfe, commanded by Lord Hume, that 
 they had barely time to reach this fortrefs; from whence (he marched 
 
 with
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 89 
 
 with an army, compofcd of Both well's friends and dependants, to Car- 
 bery Hill, where, being defeated and abandoned by them, flie furren- 
 dered herfelf prifoner, and was fent to Loch-Leven Caftle. 
 
 In the year 1567, Crawford fays, Murray laid fiege to the Cattle 
 of Dunbar, and the governor feeing no hopes of relief, furrendercd 
 it on favourable conditions ; the great guns were all difmounted and 
 carried to the Caftle of Edinburgh; and this and feveral other CaftleS' 
 were ordered to be difmantled on account of their ruinous ftate, and 
 great charge to government ; and alfo, left fome time or another they 
 fhould prove places of refuge to an enemy, an acl of parliament was- 
 made for this purpofe. 
 
 Among the rocks here are fome Bafaltic columns: they arc thus 
 defcribed by Mr. Pennant : ." Between the harbour and the caftle is a 
 " very furprifing ftratum of ftone, in fome refpects refembling that 
 " of the Giants Caufeway in Ireland: it confifts of great columns of 
 " red grit ftone, either triangular or hexangular; their diameter from 
 " one to two feet, their length at low water thirty, dipping or de- 
 " dining a little to the fouth ; they are jointed, but not fo regularly 
 " or fo plainly as thofe which form the Giants Caufeway; the furface 
 **■ of feveral that have been torn off appear as a pavement of numbers 
 " of convex ends, probably anfwering to the concave bottoms of other 
 "joints incumbent on them. The fpace between the columns was 
 " filled with the fepta of red and white fparry matter: the veins 
 " of the fame pervaded the columns tranfverfely. This range of co- 
 " lumns faces the north, with a point to the eaft, and extends in front 
 " above two hundred yards. The breadth is inconfiderable. The 
 il reft of the rock degenerates into fhapelefs mafles of the fame fort of 
 " ftone, regularly divided by thick fepta. The rock is called by the peo- 
 " pie of Dunbar, the Ifle." 
 
 The Caftle is built with a reddifh ftone. Several of the towers 
 had a communication with the water. Under the front is a very large 
 cavern of black and fome red ftone. This is faid to have been the pit 
 or dungeon for confining prifoners, and a moft dreadful one it muft 
 have been. 
 
 This plate fhews the general view of the Caftle, part of the en- 
 trance into the great cavern above defcribed. It was drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 VOL. I. A A DUN-
 
 90 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 DUNBAR CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 J. his view fhews the infide of the Caftle, with a gate that led to what 
 Teems to have been the citadel, or keep, fituated on a rock fouth weft 
 of the entrance, fteeper and higher than the reft, and connected to them 
 by mafonry. 
 
 Over this gate are divers coats of arms, almoft defaced by time and 
 weather : among them are, the arms of Scotland, thofe of the Ifle of 
 Man, and the Bruces. This view was drawn A. D. 1780. 
 
 HALES CASTLE. 
 
 JlAales Castle ftands on the fbuthernmoft bank of the river Tyne, 
 and is now the property of Sir David Dalrymple, who, as one of the 
 Lords of Seffion, is entitled Lord Hales. His Hiftorical Collection, or 
 Annals of Scotland, are universally known and admired. 
 
 The lands of Hales belonged to the family of Hepburne as early 
 as the time of King Robert Bruce. Sir Patrick Hepburne was, ac- 
 cording to Douglas's Peerage, created Lord Hales by King James III. 
 before the year 1456 ; and his grandfon, Patrick, the third Lord Hales, 
 was raifed to the dignity of Earl of Both well by King James IV. 
 A. D. I4'8. After the death and forfeiture of the Earl of Bothwell, 
 hufband to the unfortunate Mary, this Caftle, &c. was granted by 
 King James VI. to Hercules Stewart, natural fon to King James V. 
 During the greateft part of the laft century it belonged to Seton, Vif- 
 count Kingfton, from whom it was acquired about the year 1700 
 by Sir David Dalrymple, grandfather to the prefent proprietor. 
 
 About the year 1443, Buchannan fays, this Caftle was taken by 
 Archibald Dunbar, who furprifed it by a fudden affault in the night. 
 
 In the expedition of the Duke of Somerfet, A. D. 1547, the Earl of 
 Warwick was in danger of being taken prifoner by an ambufh laid at 
 and near this Caftle. This circumftance is told by Patten in the fol- 
 lowing words : 
 
 " Upon this fame ryver, on the fouth fyde, ftondes a proper houfe,' 
 
 " and
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 91 
 
 " and of fome ftrength by like; they call it Hayles Caftell, and pcr- 
 " teyneth to the Erie Bothwcl, but kept as then by y e gouvernours ap- 
 " poyntment, who held the Erie in pryfon. Above the fouth fyde of 
 " thys Caftell lieth a long hil, eaft and weft, whearuppon did apperc, 
 " in divers plumpes about IIIC. of their prickers, fum makynge to- 
 " warde the paffage too lye in wayt ther to take up ftraglers, and cut 
 " of y e tayle of our hoft. My Lordes grace, and my Lord Lieutenant, 
 " againft the Caftell upon an hill over whiche we mould paffe, did 
 " flay a while, as well for the armie that was not all cum, as alfoo 
 " to fee a fkyrmifh that fum of thefe prickers, by cumming over the 
 " river towards us, began to make, but did not maintaine. Whear- 
 " upon our forward marching foftly afore, hys grace then tooke his 
 " way after, at whom out of the Caftell thear were roundly mot of 
 " (but without hurt) VI or VII peces, the whiche before that, though 
 " fbme of our men had been very nye, yet kept they all coovert. In 
 
 ' this meen tyme did thear aryfe a very thick mift. To turne to 
 
 " my tale again, his Lordfhip regarding the daunger our rereward 
 <c was in, by reafon of diforder, caufed at this paffage by the thicknefs 
 " of this mift and nienes of the enemies, himfelf fkant with a XVI 
 " horfe; whereof Bartevile and Jhon de Ptibaude were II, VII or VI! I 
 " light horfemen, (Mo and the refte of his own fervauntes) returned 
 " towarde the paffage to fee to the arraye agayne. The Scottes per- 
 " ceyvyng our horfemen to have paft on before, and thinking (as 
 " y' truth was) that fum Captain of honour did ftay for the lookynge 
 " to the order of thys rereward ; keeping the fouth fyde of the ryver, 
 " did call over to fum of our men to knowe whither ther wear ony 
 *\ noble man nie thear. They wear afkt why they afkt; one of them 
 **. aunfwered, y' he was fuch a man (whofe name our men knew to 
 f< be honorable among them) and woold cum in to my Lorde's grace, 
 " fo that he mought be fure to come in fafety. Our young fouldiours, 
 " nothing fufpeding their auncient falfhed, told him y' my Lorde 
 " Lieutenaunt, the Erie of Warwyke, was nie thear, by whofe tuicion 
 " he mould be fafely brought to my Lords graces prefencc. Thei 
 " had cund their leflbn and fel to their pradife, which was this : 
 " Having cummen over the water, in the way as my Lord fhould 
 " paffe, they had couched behind a hillock aboat IIC of their prickers. 
 
 "a XL
 
 92 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 " a XL had they fent befyde to fearch whear my Lord was, whom whe n 
 ' thei found part of them prickt very nie, and thefe agayne a X or 
 " XII of my Lordes fmall companie did boldly encounter and drave 
 " them well nie home to their ambufh, fliynge perchaunce not fo much 
 " for fear of their force, as for falfhod to trap them : but hereby in- 
 " formed y' my Lorde was fo nie, they fent out a bigger number, and 
 " kept the reft more fecret upon this purpofe, that they might eyther 
 '* by a playne onfet have diftreft him, or els, that not prevayline, by 
 " feyning of flight to have trayned him into their ambufhc ; and thus 
 rt enftrucL they cam pricking towards hys Lordfhippe a pace: ' Why 
 " ' (quoth he) and will not thefe knaves be ruled ? Geve my ftaff;" 
 " the which then, with fo valiaunt a corage, he charged at one (as it 
 " was thought) Dandy Car, a capitayn among them : that he did not 
 " onely compel Car to turne, and himfelf chafed him above XII fcore, 
 " together, all y° way at the fpear point: fo that if Carres horfe had 
 " not been exceeding good and wight, his Lordfhip had furely run 
 " him through in this race, but alfo with his little bande caufed all 
 " y e reft to flee amain. After whom then, as Henry Vane, a gentle- 
 *' man of my Lordes, and one of this company, did fierfly purfue, foure 
 " or V Scottes fodenly turned and fet upon him; and though thei 
 " did not altogether fkape his handes free, yet by hewing and man- 
 " gling hys hed, body, and many places els, they did fo cruelly en- 
 " treat him, as if refkue had not cum y e fooner thei had flain him 
 " outright : but faved as he was, I dare be bold to fay, many a M. 
 " in war, and elswhear, have dyed w th les, than half y e les hurt. 
 " Here was Bartevile run at fydeling and hurt in the buttok, and one 
 *' of our men flayn. Of Scottes again none flain, but iii taken, 
 " whearof one was Richard Maxwell, and hurt in the thigh, who 
 " had bene long in England not long before, and had receyved right 
 *' many benefites, (as I harde himfelf confefs) both of y e late Kinges 
 " Majeftie, and of my Lord Lieutenaunt, and of many other nobles 
 '' and gentlemen, in y e court befide; and thearfore for his ingratitude 
 " and trayterous untruth, threatened too be hanged ; but as otherwife 
 " he had a great dele to much, more then he deferved, fo had he here 
 " fomewhat to litle ; for how my Lordes grace beftowed hym I wot 
 " not but hanged in dede he was not. To: make my tale perfit, it is 
 
 " certainly
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 03 
 
 '* certainly thought, y' if my Lorde Li^utenaunt had not thus va- 
 " liauntly encountered them ear thei coulde have warned their am- 
 " bufhe, how weakly he was warded, he had been beiet round about 
 " by them, ear ever he could have bene ware of them, or refkued of 
 " us: wher now hereby his Lordfhip fhewes his wonted woorthines, 
 " faved his companie, and difcomfited y e enemie." 
 This view was drawn A. D. 1787. 
 
 IN N E RfVICK CASTLE. 
 
 1 hts Caftle belonged to a younger branch of the family of Hamil- 
 ton, Dukes of Hamilton, who from it were ftyled Hamiltons of In- 
 nerwick. It was one of thofe fmall fortalices built for the defence 
 of the borders, in cafes of fudden attack, or popular infurreclions; 
 of which John Major fays, there were two in every league, " Arces 
 tamen duas tn qualibet leuca commun'iter Scotia habet tarn pro hofte quani 
 pro bellorum civilium pritno infultu, quarum alia non funt fortes, alia vero 
 (ut ditiorum virommj fortes funt ." 
 
 Patten mentions the taking of this caftle in his account of the 
 Duke of Somerfet's expedition, where he calls it Anderwyke. Our 
 army diflodged and marched on. 
 
 Thurfday, September 6. — '' In ye wai we fhould go, a mile and a half 
 from Dunglafs northward, ther wer II pyles or holdes. Thornton 
 and Anderwicke fet both on craggy foundacion, and devided a ftones 
 caft afunder by a depe gut, wherein ran a little ryver. Thornton 
 belonged to the Lorde Hume, and was kept then by one Tom Trot- 
 ter : whereunto my Lordes grace over night, for fummons fente So- 
 merfet, his heraulde, towards wl ome I III or V of this capitaynes 
 prikkers, with their gaddes ready charged, did right haftely dire«S 
 their courfe; but Trotter both honeftly defended the heraulde, and 
 fharply rebuked hys men; and faid, for the fummons he would come 
 fpeake with u y Lordes grace himielf, notwithstanding he came not, 
 but ftraight lokt up a XVI poore foules like the foldiers of Dunglas 
 fall within y e houfe, toke y e keys with him, and commanding them 
 the}' fhoulde defend y e houfe and tary within (as they coulde not get 
 
 "vol. 1. B B out)
 
 94 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 out) till his retorne, whichc, fhould be on the morrow with much mu- 
 nicion and relief, he with his prikkers prikt quite his ways. Ander- 
 wyke perteined to the Lorde of Hambledon, and was kept by hys 
 fonne and heyre, (whom of cuftume* they call the mafter of Ham- 
 bleton) and an VIII more with hym, gentlemen for the mofre parte, 
 as we harde fay. My Lordes grace, at his cumming nye, lent unto 
 both thefe piles, whiche upon fummons refufing to render, were 
 flraight aflaylcd. Thornton, by batrie of Till of our great peces of 
 ordinaunce, and certain of Syr Peter Mewtus hakbuttcrs to watch ye 
 loopholes and wyndowes on all fydes, and Anderwyke by a forte of 
 the fame hakbutters alone, who foo well befturd them, yt whear thefe 
 keepers had rammed up their outer dores, cloyed and ftopt up their 
 ftayres within, and kept themfelfes aloft for defence of their houfe 
 above the battilmentes, the hakbutters gat in and fyred them under- 
 neth; whereby beying greatly trobled with fmoke and fmoother, and 
 brought in defperation of defence, they called pitefully over their walles 
 to my Lordes grace for mercy, who, notwithftanding their great ob- 
 ilinaci, and xfample other of y e enemies mought have had by their 
 punifhment. Of his noble generofitie, and by thefe wordes making 
 half excufe for them, men may fome tyme do yt haflely in a gcre, 
 whereof after they mai foone repent them, did take them to grace, 
 and thearfore fent one flraight to them. But ere the meuenger came, 
 the hakbutters had gootten up to them, and killed VIII of them aloft ; 
 one lept over y e walles, and running more then a furlong after was 
 flaine without, in a water." 
 
 This view was drawn A.D. 1787. 
 
 * To be knowne that the Scottes call the fon and heyre of every lord, the mafter of the houfe, 
 and furname, whereof his father is called Lorde. 
 
 BERWICK-
 
 ( 95 ) 
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 COCKBURN's - PATH TOWER. 
 
 1 nis tower {lands about two miles north- weft of the Peath, or Peafe 
 bridge, in the high way between it and Dunbar. It overlooks a deep 
 woody glen, through which runs a fmall rill of water. It was undoubt- 
 edly built to defend this pafs, which has now a bridge over it. 
 
 The caftle confifts of a fmall but ftrong fquare tower of rough 
 ftone, having a circular ftaircafe in its fouth weft angle. Adjoining 
 to its fouthernmoft fide is a gate with a circular arch : on entering it, 
 on the right hand, are a number of vaulted buildings, all in ruins. 
 This caftle belongs to Sir James Hall of Dunglafs. If the appellation 
 of Cockburn's Path, by which it is at prefent called, is a corruption 
 of Coldbrand's Path, as it feems, from many circumftances, to be, 
 this was once a place of great note and confequence; concerning it, 
 the following particulars occur in hiftory. 
 
 According to Boecius the caftle of Coldbrand's Path belonged, 
 A. D. 1073, to the Earl of Dunbar and March. That author gives 
 the following account of its coming into that family: — " About the 
 " year 1061 (fays he) a formidable band of robbers infefted the fouth 
 " eaft part of Scotland. One Patrick Dunbar attacked them, flew 
 " fix hundred, hanged four fcore, and prefented the head of their 
 " Commander to the King. That valour might not remain in obfcu- 
 " rity, the King created him Earl of March, and beftowed on him 
 " the lands of Coldbrand's Path, to be held by the tenure of clearing 
 " Eaft Lothian and Merse of robbers, and bearing a banner, whereon 
 " the bloody head of a robber was painted. Lord Hailes fays, the 
 " whole of this is an ignorant ficYiOn. The Earls of March pofTefTed 
 " the Caftle of Coldbrand's Path, as well as the caftle of Dunbar. 
 " The pofTefTors of thofe caftles being fuppofed to hold the keys of 
 " the kingdom, fuch were their ftrength and importance." 
 
 A.D.
 
 96 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 A.D. 1488, King James III. having propofcd to the Parliament to 
 annex unalienably to the Crown the Earldoms of March and Annan- 
 dale, with the Baronies of Dunbar and Coldbrand's Path, the border- 
 ers, fearful of a more rigid difcipline than that to which they had been 
 accuftomed, railed a rebellion, in which the King was flain. In this 
 rebellion the rebels took the caftle of Dunbar. This view was drawn 
 A.D. 1789. 
 
 THE PE4THS BRIDGE. 
 
 Although the bridge here reprefented is of a very modern date, 
 yet the pafs, or ravine over which it is built, is famous in hiftory; and 
 the building is fo Angularly piclurefque, that it is conceived a view of 
 it will not be unacceptable. 
 
 The Peaths, vulgarly pronounced the Peafe, is a woody chafm, 
 upwards of 160 feet deep, having a rivulet running through its bot- 
 tom ; its banks being fo fteep, that they can only be defcended in an 
 oblique direction, by tra s or paths, whence it derives its name; the 
 word Peaths fignifying, as it is faid, a path or track, running obliquely 
 down a precipitous bank. 
 
 This was one of the ftrong pafles defending the kingdom of Scot- 
 land. Patten, in his account of the Duke of Somerfet's expedition, 
 defcribes it thus: — " We marched an VIII mile til we came to a place 
 " called the Peaths. It is a valley turning from a VI mile weft ftraight 
 " eaftwarde and toward the fea a XX ikore, a XX fkore brode from 
 '•' banke to banke above, and a V fkore in the bottom, wherein runnes 
 " a little river: fo fteepe be thefe bankes on eyther fyde, and depe to 
 " the bottom, that who goeth ftraight doune fhall be in daunger in 
 ** tumbling, and the commer up fo fure of puffyng and payne ; for 
 " remedie whereof, the travailers that way have ufed to pas it not 
 " by going direftly, but bypaths and footways, leading flopewife; 
 " of the number of which paths, they call it, (fomewhat nicely in- 
 " deed) y c Peaths. A brute a day or two before was fpred among 
 " us, that hereat ye Scottes were very bufy aworking, and how here 
 '* wc fhould be ftayde and met withal by them, whereunto I harde 
 
 "my
 
 n 
 
 1=1 
 ©
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 97 
 
 ** my Lordes Grace vow that he wold put it in profe, for he wo!de 
 " not ftep one t'oote out of his courfe appointed. At oure comming 
 " we found all in good peace. Howbeit the fyde waves on either fide 
 " mod ufed for eas were croft and cut of in many places, with the 
 " caftying of travers trenches, not very depe indede, and rather fom- 
 " what hinderyng then utterly letting ; for whither it were more by 
 •' pollecie or diligence (as I am fure neyther of both did want) the 
 " ways by the pioners were fone fo well plained, that our army, cary- 
 " age, and ordenaunce, were quite fet over fone after fun fet, and 
 " there as then we pight our campe." 
 
 Over this pafs a bridge of four unequal arches has been lately built, 
 garnifhedwith caft iron rails: it was finilhed about the year 1786: it 
 is but fixteen feet broad ; and, from its vaft height, has greatly the ap- 
 pearance of an ancient aquedud, but cannot be viewed to advantage 
 without defcending the bank at fome diftance. In paffing over it very 
 little is feen, the trees and fhrubs growing fo luxurioufly as to hide 
 the water and great part of its depth. This view was drawn 1788, 
 
 THE N UNN ERT OF COLD INGHA M. 
 
 A his is faid to have been the oldeft nunnery in Scotland. Neither 
 its founder, the time of its foundation, nor its order, arc known; but 
 it occurs in hiftory as early as the year 661 ; at which time Abbe, or 
 Ebbe, fiftcr to Ofy, King of Northumberland, was abbefs, and en- 
 tertained St. Cuthbert, then prior of Melrofe, here for feveral days. 
 Anno 669 Etheldreda, Queen of Egfred, King of Northumberland, 
 became a nun of this houfe. 
 
 In the year 709 this monaftery was burned, as was faid, by acci- 
 dent; chough it was generally fuppofed to have been a punifhment 
 from Heaven, inflicled on the Monks and Nuns for their wicked lives. 
 Thi c monartrry being, according to the cuftom of the times, inhabit- 
 ed Ky both Monks and Nuns, who, though dwelling in different parts 
 of the houfe, were not fo effectually feparated as to prevent fome very 
 unl; iiitual communications, which continued to encreafe greatly 
 after the death of Ebba, their pious abbefs before mentioned. 
 
 vol. i. c c The
 
 9 3 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 The monaftery having been re-edified, and placed under a pious 
 abbefs, named Ebba, perhaps in memory of the former holy lady, wa^ 
 again burned in the year 867, or, as Mathew Paris has it, in 870, by 
 the Danes, under Inguar and Hubba, who, landing at Berwick, the 
 abbefs, alarmed for her chaftity and that of her nuns, prevailed on 
 them to cut off their nofes and upper lips. The Danes who, besides 
 the hope of plunder, were allured with the profpecl: of fatisty ing their 
 brutal lull on this holy fifterhood, enraged at the difappointment, fet 
 fire to the monaftery, and confumed therein the abbefs aud her flock. 
 
 The truth of this ftory is much doubted, it not having been men- 
 tioned by divers ecclefiaftical hiftorians, and a fimilar ftory being re- 
 lated of another houfe. 
 
 It feems as if this monaftery lay defolate till the year 1098, when it 
 was refounded by Edgar, King of Scotland, in honour of St. Cuth- 
 bert, and filled with Benedictine Monks from Durham, to which place 
 it was made dependant. To it, among other privileges, was granted, 
 that of Sanctuary for thirty-feven days to all thofe who fled thither, 
 fimilar to the privilege enjoyed by the abbey of Lindisfarne. 
 
 In the year 11:7a charter was granted by Robert Bifliop of St. 
 Andrews, to the nunnery of Coldingham, declaring it free from all 
 claims, payments, and fervices. 
 
 In 1215 King John, making an incurfion into Scotland, plundered 
 and burned this priory. 
 
 Anno 1220 one William Drax, a monk of Durham, having been 
 ejected from the office of prior of this houfe, both by the Papal autho- 
 rity and the votes of the monks of Dumftrmling, to whom this priory 
 had been made fubordinate by Robert II , in a fit of revenge caufed 
 the church and offices of this houfe to be fet on fire. 
 
 In the reign of King Edward I. Hugh. Bishop of Eiblis, in the 
 Holy Land, obtained from Pope Bencd ct the Xlth the profits and re- 
 venues of the priory of Coldingham during his life time; both which 
 grants King Edward declared null and void. 
 
 In the reign of James III. of Scotland this priory was annexed to the 
 Royal Chapel of Stirling. After his death Alexander Stuart, a natural 
 fon of King James IV., was made commendator ; he was killed at the 
 
 battle
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 99 
 
 battle of Flodden in 151^. The laft commcndator was John. Stuart, 
 fon of Francis, Earl of Bothwell. 
 
 Anno 1544, in an inroad made by the Englifh, they feized this 
 priory, and fortified the church and fteeplc. The garrifon having 
 committed many depredations on the adjacent country, the Earl of 
 Arran. Governor of Scotland, attacked them with an army of eight 
 thoufand men and fome artillery ; but after battering the ftccple for a 
 day and night, he retired in a panick; upon which his army dif- 
 p^rfed, and would have left their artillery behind them, but that it was 
 brought off by Angus, who, with a fmall body of his dependents, 
 marched in the rear of it, covering the retreat. 
 
 In the year 1594. upon the forfeiture of Bothwell's eflates, the 
 Lordfliip of Coldingham was given to Lord Hume, in whofe family 
 it ftill remains. 
 
 The charters belonging to this houfe are in the archives of the 
 church of Durham. 
 
 THE REVENUES OF THIS PR10RT WERE, 
 
 L, S. d. 
 
 Money - 818 10 9 Scotch money, &c. 
 CORN. 
 
 Combes 
 
 Bols 
 
 Firlots 
 
 Pecks 
 
 Wheat 6 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 Bear 19 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 Oats 25 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Rye x 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Peafe 3 
 
 *3 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 Of this priory the chief remains are part of the church, confifting 
 of a (Ingle aiile. The fouth fide and weft end were rebuilt about the 
 year 1670, as appears by the initials and date, AA. 1670. The roof 
 is covered with lead, the ceiling boarded. The windows at the eaft 
 end are circular, and decorated with the zigzag ornament. On the 
 infide of the fouth wall are two ftories of pointed arches. 
 
 There are feveral ruined arches at the eaft and weft ends, and divers 
 
 fragments of buildings about the church. Thele have been pulled 
 
 down for the fake of the ftone. 
 
 Some
 
 ioo BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 Some years ago, in taking down a tower at the fouth-weft corner 
 of the building, a ikeleton of a woman was found, who, from feve- 
 ral circumftances, appeared to have been immured. She had her 
 fhoes on, which were long preferved in the cuftody of the minifter. 
 This view fhews the Eaft end and South fide of the building. Wa-j 
 drawn a. d. iySy. 
 
 HOME CASTLE. 
 
 X HE family of Home is by Douglas, in his Peerage, deduced from 
 Cofpatrick, third Earl of Dunbar. 
 
 The territory of Home occurs as early as the year 1240, in a do- 
 nation to the monastery of Kelfo, by Ada, daughter of Patrick, the 
 fifth Earl of Dunbar, wife of William the fon of Patrick, who was 
 the fecond fon of Cofpatrick above mentioned. 
 
 From the lands and caftle of Home this William took his furname, 
 the family of March having aflumed that of Dunbar a few years be- 
 fore. He alfo carried the armorial bearings of the Earl of Dunbar, 
 which his pofterity, the family of Home, have continued to do ever 
 fmce with little variation. 
 
 In this family it continued through a long fucceflion of defen- 
 dants; among whom we find many gallant foldiers, ambafladors, 
 privy counfellors, ftatefmen, and others, occupying the higheft places 
 of honour and truft. 
 
 In the Parliament held by King James III., anno 1465, Alexander 
 Dominus de Home fat as a Lord Baron: he was actually created a 
 Lord of Parliament by the title of Lord Home, the 2d of Auguft, 
 1473 : an d March 4, 1604, Alexander, the fixth Lord Home, was, by 
 King James VI., raifed to the dignity of Earl of Home, Lord Dun- 
 glafs. 
 
 The particulars attending the taking of this caftle arc circumftan- 
 tially mentioned by Patten, in his account of the Duke of Somerfet's 
 expedition : 
 
 Thurfday, Sept. 20. — " Rofe, the herauld, (fays that author) depart- 
 " ed crely with this faufecundet, our campe reyfed, and wc went that 
 
 " day
 
 
 - g 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 | 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
 t 
 
 I- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 mimwMMwrmmmvm
 
 B E R W I C K S H I R E. 101 
 
 " day an VII myle till as far as Hume cafiell, whear we camped on 
 " the weft fyde of a rocky hill, they call Harecrag, whyche llondcth 
 " about a mile weftwarde from the caftell. The Lord of Hume (as 
 " I fayd) lay difeafcd at Edenborovve ot his hurt in his flight at the 
 " Fryday's fkyrmifli before the battaylc. The lady, his wife, cam 
 " ftraight to my Lordes Grace ; makyng her humble fute that, lyk as 
 " hys goodnes had gracioufly bene fhevved to right many other in re- 
 " ceyvynge them and their howfes into his graces protection and af- 
 " furaunce, even fo, that it would pleas him to receyve and allure her 
 " and her hwfe the caftell: My Lordes grace mynde^nge never uothc - 
 " but to aflure her, fhe fhoolde be fure foon to forgo it, turned ftraight 
 " her fute of aflurance into communication of rendring; for my part, 
 " I doubt not but the terrour ot extremetie by their obftinacy, and 
 " proffit of frendfhip by their fubmifiion, was fufinciently ftiewed her; 
 '' the which havyng well ^by like confidered) fhe lefte of her fute, and 
 " defired refpite for confultation, tyll the next day at noon, which, 
 '' havyng graunted her, fhe turned to the caftell. They fay a matche 
 " well made is half wun: wear half put in alTurance of a toward aun- 
 " fwer by the promefle of a prophecy among the Frenchmen, which 
 " fayeth, Chaflean que parloit & femme que ejeote : king voet reiidre £ff 
 M Lautre; and fo toorth. I hear wear certein hakbutters that, upon 
 " appointment before, had befet the caftell ; whoo then had farther 
 ** commaundement given them, thattakyng diligent hede none llioulde 
 " pas in or out without my Lordes graces licence, they Ihoulde alfo 
 " not occupie ony fhot or annoAaunce tyll upon farther warning. 
 
 Wednefday, Sept. 21. — " This lady, in this mean tyme, confulted with 
 " her fun and heir, prifoner with us, and with oother her frendes the 
 " kepers of the caftell, at the tyme appoynted, returned this day to my 
 " Lordes grace, requirynge firft a longer refpit till VIII a clock at 
 " night, and thearwith faufcundet for Andrew Hume, her fecund fun, 
 " and John Hume, Lord of Coldamknowes, a kinfman of her huf- 
 '• bandes, captains of this caftell, to cum and fpeak with his grace in 
 *• the mean while. It was granted her; whearupon theft captains, 
 " about III of the clock, cum to his lordfhip; and, after oother cove- 
 " naunts, with long debatyng on bothe parties, agreed upon, fhe and 
 
 vol. 1. . D D " thefc
 
 102 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 " thefe captains concluded to geve their affcnt to render y° cafte'1 fo 
 " far foorth as the reft of the kepers would thearwith be content. For 
 " II or III within ((aide theye^ wear alfo in charge with keeping it, as 
 " well as they; for knowledge of whofe mindes, my Lordes grace then 
 " fent Soomerfet, his herauld, with this lady, to y c caftell to them; who, 
 " as the herauld had made them privie of the articles, woolde fayne 
 " have had leafure for XX1III houres longer to fend to their Lord to 
 " Edenborowe to know his wil ; but beyng wifely and fha'rply cauld 
 " upon by the herauld ther agreed to the covenauntes, afore by their 
 " lady, and capteyns concluded on, whearof parte weare (as I faw by 
 '* the fequele) that they fhoolde departe thence the next daie morning 
 " by X of the clok with bagge and baggage as mooch as they could car- 
 " ry, favyng all municion and vytale to be left be hynde them in the 
 " caftell : howbeeit, for as mooche as before tyme, theyr nacion had not 
 " bene all together fo jufte of covenaunt, whearby as then we mought 
 " have caufe fyrmly to credyt their promys, my Lordes grace provid- 
 " ing ech wey to be redy for them, caufed this night VIII peeces of 
 " our ordinaunce fenced with balkets of earth, to be planced on the 
 " fouth fyde towarde the caftell within pour of batrie and the hak- 
 " buttes, to continue their watch and warde. 
 
 Thurfday, Sept. 22. — " This morning my Lordes grace havyng 
 '' deputed my Lord Gray to receyve the rendrying of the caftell, 
 " and Sir Edward Dudley after to be captayne of the fame, they 
 11 both departed to yt, and at the time fet Andrewe Hume and IT 1 1 
 " oother of y' chefeft thear with hym cam out, and yeldying the 
 " caftell delivered my Lord the keis. His Lordfhip caufing the refi- 
 " due alfo to cumrae out then, faving VI or VII to kepe their bag- 
 " gage within (who all wear in number LXXVI1I) entrcd the fame 
 " with mafter Dudley, and diverfe other gentlemen with him. He 
 '* found thear indufferent good ftore of vytale and wyne ; and of ordi- 
 " naunce, two bafterd culverins, one facre, III fawconets of bras, 
 " and one of iren, VIII peces befide. The caftell ftondeth upon a 
 " rocky crag, with a prowd heith over all the countrie about it, on 
 *' every fyde well nie fenced by marryfh, allmoft rounde in forme, 
 " with thick walls, and which is a rare thing upon fo hie and ftonie 
 " a ground, a faire well within yt. The kepyng of this caftell
 
 ■
 
 PS 
 
 b
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 103 
 
 " my Lord betakyng unto mafter Dudley, accordingly rctourned to 
 " my Lordes grace at the campe." 
 
 The next year the Scots feized this caftle by ftratagem, and flew 
 the garrifon in 1549. The Lord Grey unfuccefslully attempted to 
 recover it. 
 
 This caftle at prefent belongs to the Earl of Marchmont, who 
 purchaied it a few years ago. — This view was drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 DRl'BURGII ABBEY. Plate I. 
 
 For the following defcription of this Abbey, 
 I am indebted to the Earl of Buchan : 
 
 JL he ruins of this monaftery are beautifully fituatcd on a peninfula 
 formed by the Tweed, ten miles above Kelfo, and three below Mel- 
 rofe, on the fouth-weftern confine of the county of Berwick. 
 
 Saint Mod ant, who was one of the firft Chriftian Miffionaries in 
 Britain, was abbot of Dryburgh about the year five hundred and twen- 
 ty-two, and made apoftolical excurfions into the north- weftern parts 
 of Scotland, particularly in the diftricis of Stirling and Dumbarton, 
 where his memory is ftill to be traced in popular tradition.* 
 
 There is fome reafon to conjecture, that on this fpot there had 
 been more anciently a Druidical eftablifhment, becaufe the Celtic or 
 Gaelic etymology of the name, Darach-bruach, or Darachbrugh, or 
 Dryburgh, can be no otherwife interpreted than the bank of the facred 
 grove of oaks, or the fettlement of the Druids ; and we know that it 
 was ufual for the firft planters of Chriftianity in Pagan countries to 
 chufe fuch facred haunts for the propagation of the gofpel. 
 
 Bede, however, in his ecclefiaftical hiftory, is filent on this fiibjec~t: 
 and as more than a century had elapfed from the days of Modan to 
 thofe of the venerable hiftorian, it is probable the religious refidencc 
 had been transferred to Melrofe long before he compofed his annals. 
 
 * Chalmers, de ftatu hominis veteris fimulac novas Ecclefiae, B. 1. p. 142. King in his Ka'en- 
 dar. Breviary of Aberdeen. 
 
 The
 
 !o 4 BERWICKSHIR E. 
 
 The new abbey of Drvburgh was founded by Hugh de Morville, 
 Lord of Lauderdale,* and his wife Beatrix de Beauchamp, about the 
 year 1150, who obtained a charter of confirmation from King Da- 
 vid I., v ho aiTumes in the deed the defignation of founder; and to 
 this charter Hugo de iMorville is a witnefs. But it fufficiently appears 
 from the chronicle of Melros, that this abbey, on its new foundation, 
 owed its eftablifhment to thefe illuftrious fubjecls, and was afterwards 
 taken under the protection of the fovereign. 'J he church yard was 
 confecrated on St. Martin's day, 11 50, as appears from the follow- 
 ing entry quoted by Hay in his Reliquiae Sacrae, Scot, p 301. vol. 1. 
 " Quo diaj casmiterite facris utibus confecratas funt ne demonis in iis 
 graflarentur!" 
 
 The monks of the order of Prcmontre (Premonftratcnfes) were 
 brought to Dryburgh trom Alnwick in the year 1 152. Hugh de Mor- 
 ville died in 1162; the time of Beatrix de Beauchamp, his wife's 
 death, is not known. The firft Abbot, Roger, reigned in the year 
 1 177, and was fucceeded by Gerard, the prior of the houfe. Gal- 
 fridus, abbot of Dryburgh, was tranflated to Alnwick in \ Z'~ 9, and 
 was fucceeded by William ; concerning whom no particulars are re- 
 corded. Henry, abbot of Holyrood-houfe, after he was ele&ed bifhop 
 of Galloway, anno 1253, ratifies all the churches in his diocefe which 
 had been granted to the abbey of Dryburgh. 
 
 Patrick, of the reformed order of Premonftratcnfes of Dryburgh, 
 is recorded as a man of learning and a writer in the fourteenth cen- 
 tury, about the year 1330.-J- 
 
 Radulphus de Strode, a monk of this houfe, travelled through 
 England, Germany, France, Italy, and Paleftine. Dempfter mentions 
 him as a poet of eminence, and efteemed by Chaucer. He was one 
 of the numerous antagonifts of Wickliffe the reformer. J 
 
 This abbey was burnt, and a confiderable part of it deftroyed by 
 
 * Hoghde Momlle was con (table of Scotland, and it continued in his family p 'fling from it by 
 ¥<■ lena e'e Morville, daughter of Richard, his ton, to Alan, Lord of Gallowat ; and from ihem to 
 the U lineys, Earls of Winehefter ; on « hofe forfeiture, by King Robert Bruce, the office was 
 heretabty beftowed on Gilbert de Haya, anceftor of the Eark of Errol ; a. id irom thence, laftly, 
 to the Boys, Earls of Kilmarnock, now Earl of Errol by female defcent. 
 t Hay's Reliquiae Sac. ubi fupra. 
 j M'Keuzie's Lives, I. 426. 
 
 the
 
 BERWIC'KSHIR E. 105 
 
 the army of Edward II. in the year 1323, and was repaired at the 
 expence of King Robert I. From feveral appearances in the r 
 now remaining, there is rcafon to believe that there had been baildings 
 at Dryburgh of the ancient foundation when the new works were 
 erected by Hugh de Morvill and Beatrix de Beachamp ; fragmi 
 of a more ancient ftyle of architecture being intermixed with thofe of 
 the age of King David. 
 
 Andrew Forman, bifhop of Moray, afterwards archbifhop of St. 
 Andrews, ambaffador to France, and entrufted with the moft impor- 
 tant offices in the kingdom of Scotland during the reigns of James IV. 
 and V. held the monaffcery of Dryburgh in commendam with thofe 
 of Pittenweem, Coldingham, and Dumfermline, and refigned that 
 of Dryburgh to James Ogilvie, of the family of Defkford, on his 
 being difappointed of the bifhopric of Aberdeen by the intrigues and 
 influence of the Earl of Huntley, who obtained that benefice for a pro- 
 fligate relation of his own, Alexander Gordon, who was a difgrace to 
 the mitre, and to the facred function. Thefe appointments were made 
 foon after the death of archbifliop Elphingftoun in the year 15 16. 
 James Ogilvie was feveral times employed in negotiations of ftate, 
 both at London and Paris, and continued abbot of Dryburgh till his 
 death, about the year 1556, when David Erfkine, natural fon of the 
 Lord Erfkine, eldeft fon of John Earl of Mar, elder brother of the re- 
 gent, was appointed abbot. 
 
 David Eeskine and his brother Adam, who was abbot of Inchma- 
 homoe, were fub-pr<eceptors under George Bucannan to King James VI. 
 
 Ralph Erskine, the fon of David, married a daughter of Halybur- 
 ton of Mertoun, and was the auccftor of the Frfkines of Shieldfield, 
 who poffefs part of the lands of Dryburgh. 
 
 James VI. of Scotland diffolved the abbey of Dryburgh, and erected 
 it into a temporal lordfhip and peerage in favour of John Earl of Mar, 
 Lord High Treafurer of Scotland, by the title of Cardrofs. The abbies 
 of Cambufkenneth and Inchmahomoe being in like manner diifolved 
 and united with Dryburgh to form the lordfhip and peerage in a man- 
 ner fo lingular, that we have thought it would not be unac< tabic 
 to give our readers copies of the patents from the public records. 
 
 Anno 1604, March 27th. — " To John Earle of Marr, &c, for the 
 
 VOL. I. E E good,
 
 106 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 good, true, and faithful ferviccs, and acceptable pains and care taken 
 by his anceftors in the education of his Majefties royal perfon from 
 his birth to his perfect age, and for the like fervice done by the laid 
 Earle himfelf in the education of his Majefties eldeft fon the Prince, 
 and for his fpeedie and dutifull difcharging himfelf of the feverall 
 cmbaflys wherein he was employed by his Majefty ; and upon confi- 
 deration that the monafteries aftermentioned were (fincc the abolifh- 
 ing the fnperftitions thereof, and annexation of the fame*, with the 
 kirklands, &c, thereto belonging to his Highnefs crown) commonly 
 difponed by his Majefties predeceflbrs to fome that were of the laid 
 houfe of Erfkine, &c. &c. To the faid Earle of Marr and his heirs 
 male, and affigneys, all and sundrie the lands, baronies, caftles, towers, 
 fortalices, manor, places, &c. &c. &c. whilks pertained to the pri- 
 orie of Inchmahomoe, and the abbacies of Dryburgh and Cambuf- 
 kenncth ; and whereof the prior and abbots of the fame have been in 
 poffeffion as parts of the rent and patrimonie thereof in any time by- 
 gone, together with the advocation, donation, and rights of patronage, 
 of all and sundrie the paroch kirks, both parfonage and vicarage, of 
 the faid monafteries, with the pertinents all united, annexed, and in- 
 corporate in ane free lordfhip and baronie, to be called in all tyme com- 
 ing the lordfhip and baronie of Cardross," 
 
 xeccor o . s , (l q, ]u fo veK \gn Lord and Eftates of this prefent 
 
 Lib, 16. ad finem, ° r 
 
 19 July, 1606. Parliament, he, confidering the good, true, 
 
 and thankfull fervices, &c. ; and that in refpect thereof, his Majesty, by 
 his Highnefs's charter. March 27, 1604, difponed to John Earle of Marr, 
 &c. Therefore our faid fovereign Lord ratifies and approves the faid 
 charter, &c. ; attour his Majefty and eftates of Parliament, for great fcen 
 and weighty caufes, diffohes the faid priory andabbacys from the act of 
 annexation, and of new gives, grants, and difpones to the faid John Earle 
 of Marr, his heirs male and affignes, heretably all and fundry the faid 
 lands, baronies, &c. ; to be called in all time coming the lordfhip or 
 barony of Cardrofs, and gives to the laid noble Earl, and his heirs and 
 fucceflbrs thatjhall happen to he provided by. him, to the faid lordfhip 
 
 * By an aft of Parliament, 29th July, I087. 
 
 and
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 107 
 
 and barony of Cardrofs, the honour, ejiate, dignity, and prcheminencc, 
 of a free Lord of Parliament, to be called Lord Cardrofs in all time 
 coming, &c. &c. 
 
 Charter of the Peerage of Cardrofs to Heirs and Afjtgneys. 
 Record of Charters. Jacobus dei gratia, &c. Dedifle Joanni 
 
 \'\ °' .,' Comiti de Mar, heredibus ejus & afjignatis 
 
 a. d. l(Jl5, April 10. ' J M& 
 
 omnes & fingulus terras, &c. " In imam 
 integrum liberum & temporale dominium & baronium de Cardrofs, 
 nuncupamus, & facimus & conftituimus praefatum Joannem Comitem 
 de Mar, fuofque heredes mafculos & affignatos & succelTores in di&is 
 terris dom. & baron, ejufdem cum plena poteftate in omnibus noftri* 
 parliaments aflidere & votum & fufFragium habere." 
 
 Reccord of Charters,* 
 
 March, 13, 1 61 7. 
 
 CONFIRMATION OF 1HE FOREGOING DEED, 
 
 Reccord of Ret ours, 
 
 March 17, 1637. 
 
 RETOUR DAVID ERSKINE TO HENR2' ERSKINE, HIS FATHER. 
 
 v 
 
 Eeccord of Charters, Charter to David Erjkine, Lord Cardrofs of 
 
 Dryburgh, Cambufkenneth and Inchmaliomoe. 
 
 '* Carolus dei gratia dedifle, noitro confanguineo Davidi Domino 
 de Cardrofs, &c. ; & heredibus masculis dc corpore fuo ligitime pro- 
 creatis feu procreandis, &c— Cum & fub expreffis conditionibus, 
 provifionibus, refervationibus,. & limitationibus continendis in aliquo 
 fcripto per diclum Davidem de Cardrofs, quo cumque tempore vita; 
 fuae etiam in articulo mortis, fubferibentem, qua: nos declaramus fore 
 turn fufficientes obligare diclos heredes mafculos ad prasftandos diclos 
 conditiones ac fi cadem ad longam in noftra dida charta cxprime- 
 rentur, & fuper quibus conditionibus diet, heredes mafculos habebunt 
 jus ad titulum & dignitatem dominii de Cardrofs, &c, & ad feodum 
 dicl terrarum quibus deficientibus, aliarum tali perfonce feu aliquibus 
 perfonis quas placuerit diclo domino de Cardrofs delignare, nominare, 
 & ftatuere, per nominationem & defignationem, per ilium, ut diftum
 
 B E R W I C K S H I R E. 
 
 ell: fubfcriptionem, quocunque tempore vitas fuse etiam in articulo mor- 
 tis ac fub expreflVs conditionibus, provifionibus, refervationibus, rcftric- 
 tionibus, & limitationibus in ibi continend — quibus deficientibus om- 
 nes ejus ftlii fucecffivi — quibus omnibus deficientibus dicli Davidi dom. 
 Cardrofs propinquioribus & legitimis heredibus & aflignatis quibu«- 
 cunque totum & interum dom. & baroniam de Cardrofs cum plena 
 poteftatc in omnibus noftris parliamentis affedcre & votum & fuffra- 
 gium habere," &c. 
 
 Thus, from the records of parliament, the record of charters, and 
 the record of rctours in Scotland, it appears that King James VI. 
 conveyed a right to John Karl oi' Mar of affigning the peerage of Card- 
 rofs; which right, confirmed afterwards by the King and by Parlia- 
 ment, John Earl of Mar affigned and made over to Henry, his third 
 ion, anceftor of the Earl of Buchan, by a deed, March 13, 161 7, 
 which is on the record of charters, referving to himfelf the life-rent. 
 Henry, Lord of Dryburgh, to whom this patent was affigned, died 
 before his father, anno 1628. The Earl died 1636. David is re- 
 toured to his father's right, and February 10, 1664, is fully inverted 
 with the rights of Peerage, and fits, as appears from the records in 
 Parliament, as Lord Cardrofs of Dryburgh, Cambufkenneth, and 
 Inchmahomoe, was fucceeded by his fon Henry, anno 1671, who 
 fat in parliament by the fame patent; and d^ing anno 1693 was fuc- 
 ceeded by his fon David, who, in 1696, fucceeded as heir male to the 
 Earldom of Buchan, on the death of William, whofe grandfather 
 was the immediate elder brother of Henry, Lord of Dryburgh, to 
 whom the title of Cardrofs had been affigned by John Earl of Mar, 
 his father, as has been fully fet forth and defcribed. 
 
 Thts peerage of Cardrofs may be eonfidered as unique in titles of 
 honour, fince, though the titles of Stair, Rutherfoord, and feveral 
 others, have had claims of affignation in the patents, the right of cre- 
 ation could not be transferred by the king to a fubjeel, without the com- 
 plete exercife of the whole legiflative body to transfer this right of the 
 monarch to another; which having been done in this inftance, it ftands 
 unexampled in the hiftory of peerage, and, as fuch, has been conveyed 
 to the eye of the public in treating of this monaftery of Dryburgh. 
 
 As
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 109 
 
 As to what farther relates to the abbey of Dryburgh, having been 
 obliged to fwell this article beyond the limits prefciibed to this work, 
 we lhall content ourfelves with mentioning thefe farther particulars. 
 William Malvoifon, bifhop of St. Andrews, in the year 1.208, dedi- 
 cated the new church-yard there, with the ufual ceremonies. Robert 
 de Londonia, brother of the King of Scots, gave to the monaftery 
 of St. Mary of Dryburgh, " de annuo reditu tribus folidis argenti & 
 unam libram piperi de haffedwyn." 
 
 Walter Stuart, father to King Robert II., grants to this abbey 
 the patronage of the kirk of Maxton, in the mire of Roxburgh, and 
 diocefe of Glafgow. Kilrinny, in Fife, was alfo given to this monaf- 
 tery by Ada, mother to King Malcolm IV. and King William the 
 Lion ; and by the fame charter fhe gives them " dimidiam carrucatam 
 terre de Pitcortyne, & unum toftum in burgo meo de Carele." Sir 
 John Maxwell, of Carlaverock and of Pencaitland, grants to this abbey 
 the patronage of the kirk of Pencaitland, &c. 
 
 Mr. Arch dale, in his Monaft. Hibcrn. p. 140 and 141, informs 
 us, that there were two monafteries in Ireland, which acknowledged 
 the abbey of Dryburgh for their mother, viz. the abbey of Druin-la- 
 Croix, in the county of Armagh ; and the abbey of Woodburn, in the 
 County of Antrim. 
 
 A copy of the Liber S. Mariae de Dryburgh, containing all its an- 
 cient charters, is in the Lib. of the Advocates at Edinburgh; a fair 
 tranfeript from which, made under the eye of Macfarlane, of Mac- 
 farlane, the learned antiquary, is in the fame colleclion. 
 
 The rental of this monafiery, as produced at the time of the an- 
 nexation of church lands, 1587, was as follows: 
 
 In money £. 1044 16 8 Chald. Bols. Firl. Pecks, 
 
 In barley - 24 7 3 3i 
 
 In meal 22 l S 3 3^ 
 
 In oats -.__ g 151 o 
 
 In wheat _-._ 1 143 3] 
 
 Scots money £. 1044 16 8 53 5 10 i.oi 
 
 vol 1. f f The
 
 no BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 The ancient revenue of this monaftery had fuffered considerable 
 wafte immediately after the reformation; and, confidcring the value of 
 money and grain in thefe times, and that of the domain lands culti- 
 vated by the fervants of the monaftery, which confifted of about four 
 hundred acres of the beft land in the country, the whole yearly in- 
 come of the monaftery may be fairly eftimated at what would now be 
 equal to 1600I. fteiling; a goodly fupport for the houfe, which docs not 
 appear at any time to have maintained above fifty monks; yet by no 
 means proportioned to the magnificence of the ftructure which was 
 reared by ancient piety for their accommodation. 
 
 The frecftone of which the monaftery of Dry burgh, and the moft 
 elegant parts of the abbey of Melrofe was built, is of a moft beautiful 
 colour and texture, and has defied the influence of the weather for 
 more than fix centuries: nor is the fharpnefs of fculpture in the leaft 
 affected by the ravages of time. The quarry from which it was taken 
 is ftill fuccefsfully wrought at Dryburgh, and no ftone in the ifland 
 fcems more perfectly adapted for the purpofes of architecture, as it 
 hardens by age, and is not fubject to be corroded or decompofed by 
 the weather, fo that it might even be ufed for the cutting of bas reliefs 
 and of ftatues. 
 
 We fhall finally conclude this account of Dryburgh abbey, by ob- 
 fcrving, that it was purchafed in the year 1786, by the Earl of Buchan, 
 from the heirs of Colonel Tod, who bought it from Haliburton of 
 Newmains, the heir of the ancient family of Haliburton of Mertoun, a 
 very old cadet of the chief family of Halyburtons of Piteur, and of 
 Halyburton of Halyburton." — This view was drawn A.D. 1787. 
 
 D RTBURG H A BB E T. Plate II. 
 
 i me ftate of this ruin, when viewed by Mr. Pennant in the year 
 1769, was a very little remains of the church, but much of the con- 
 vent ; the refectory fupported by two pillars, feveral vaults, and other 
 offices ; part of the cloifter walls, and a fine radiated window, of ftone 
 work. Since this account was written the refectory, fupported by the 
 two pillars above-mentioned, has fallen ; but the gable ends are ftill 
 
 remaining :
 
 4 
 M
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. in 
 
 remaining : in one of them is the fine circular radiated window, de- 
 scribed by Mr. Pennant, at prcfent finely mantled with ivy. 
 This view fhews the fouth-weft afpecl:. Drawn 1789. 
 
 THE CASTLE OF BERWICK UPON TIVEED. 
 
 Jjekwick Castle ftands upon an eminence a fmall diftance north- 
 weft of the town ; both are on the north fide of the river Tweed. 
 The Caftle, as is fhewn in this view, is now totally in ruins ; but, 
 from its fituation and remains, muft once have been a place of very 
 confiderable ftrength. No place in Great Britain has been the fcenc 
 of fo many military operations, or undergone fuch a viciffitude of 
 fortune, it having been repeatedly attacked and furprifed, defended, 
 burned, and plundered, by both Scotch and Englifli ; to both which 
 kingdoms it has alfo at different times belonged. At prefent it feems 
 to be a kind of feparate diftrict, particularly mentioned in all a£ts of 
 Parliament as not being included in either. Berwick on Tweed is a 
 town and county of itfelf. 
 
 The town is a modern fortification, and a handfome ftone bridge of 
 fixteen arches ; both built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Alfo 
 good barracks for the invalids, who ccnltantly do duty here. 
 
 This caftle is mentioned by Hector Boetius in his account of the 
 reign of Kenneth the fecond, who died in the year 858. 
 
 This was one of the caftlcs delivered up by King William, furnamed 
 the Lion, to King Henry II. of England, in 1174, according to the 
 treaty at Falaife, but which was afterwards reftorcd by King Richard I. 
 anno 1 189, for the confideration often thoufand marks fterling. 
 
 In the reign of Alexander I., 12 16, King John took the town and 
 caftle of Berwick, where he committed the moft unheard-of cruelties, 
 himfelf fetting fire to the houfe where he had lodged, and, by the 
 advice of certain Jews who followed his army, hanging up the inha- 
 bitants, both men and women, by their hands and feet, and inflicting 
 divers other tortures, in order to make them difcover where they had 
 hidden their money and goods. 
 
 I.N
 
 f u BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 In 1292, the final hearing of" the competitors for the crown of Scot- 
 land was held in the hall of this cattle, when John Bailiol was declared 
 King. Peter Burdet was then conftable of the caftle. The order ad- 
 dreffed to him on this occafion is publifhed by Rymer, as a fpecimen 
 of the orders given to the conftables of the other royal caftles. 
 
 Edward I. having attacked Berwick both by fea and land in the 
 year 1296, the town, after a fhort refiftance, was taken, and the in- 
 habitants put to the fword, to the number of upwards of eight thou- 
 fand ; among whom were all the gentry and fighting men of Fife. 
 The caftle was alfo furrendered the fame day by William Douglas^ 
 captain thereof: its garrifon confifted of two hundred men, to whom 
 Edward granted their lives, limbs, and eftates, and allowed them to 
 depart with their arms, on their {wearing never to fight againft the 
 King or Kingdom of England ; but Douglas was detained a prifoner 
 in the caftle until the conclufion of the war. 
 
 All the males belonging to the town being flain, the women were 
 fbme days after fent into Scotland. The King continued fifteen days 
 in the town; and, in order to fortify it againft future afTaults from 
 the Scots, caufed a vaft ditch to be digged through the neck of land 
 between the fea and the Tweed, eighty feet broad, and forty feet deep. 
 In the fame year the nobles of Scotland fwore fealty to Edward, and 
 renounced their alliance with France. 
 
 Anno 1297, this caftle was unfuccefsfully attacked by Sir William 
 Wallace, affifted by William Douglas, the late captain. 
 
 Here, in 1306, the Countefs of Buchan, who had been extremely 
 a&ive in the caufe of Brus, and even pl-aced the crown on his head, 
 was, by the command of King Edward, fhut up in a wooden cage, 
 in one of the towers of Berwick caftle; as was Mary, fifter to Brus, 
 in like manner in the caftle of Roxburgh. The order to the Cham- 
 berlain of Scotland, or his Lieutenant, for making the cage for the 
 Countefs of Buchan, is printed in Rymer*. Mathew of Weftminfter, 
 
 a con- 
 
 * The Chamberlain of Scotland, or his Lieutenant in Berwick, was, by writ of Privy Seal, 34 
 Edw. I. A. D. 1306, iliiected to make, in one of the turrets of the Caftle of Berwick upon Tweed, 
 which he IhoulU find the moll convenient, a ftrong cage of lattice work, conftruded with pofts and 
 
 bare.
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 113 
 
 a. contemporary writer, fays, that the King declared, that as (he did 
 not ftrike with the fword, flic fhould not die with the fword, but or- 
 dered her to be fhut up in an habitation of ftone and iron, fhaped 
 like a crown, and to be hung out at J'crwick in the open air, for a 
 fpcclacle and everlafting reproach, while living and dead, to all that 
 paffed by. The circumftance of hanging out the cage is not men- 
 tioned in the order. 
 
 In the year 13 18, the town and caftle of Berwick were taken, being, 
 according to the Englifh writers, betrayed to Robert Brus by its go- 
 vernor, Peter Spalding, for a fum of money. But Barbour fays, Peter 
 Spalding was a Burgess of Berwick, and joined in betraying the place 
 on account of his violent hatred to the governor of the town for his 
 malignity and cruelty to the Scots. The town being furprifed, the 
 caftle held out for fix days longer, and then furrendered. 
 
 In the year 1333, the Englifh, under King Edward III., after a 
 tedious fiege, made themfelves mafters of this town and caftle; for the 
 relief of which the Scotch fought the battle of Haledon, wherein, it 
 is faid by the Englifh writers, they loft eight earls, ninety knights and 
 bannerets, four hundred efquires, and thirty-five thoufand men. 
 The Scotch writers allow only from ten to fourteen thoufand men ; 
 a much more probable account, it being doubtful whether the whole 
 Scots army amounted to the number faid to be flain. 
 
 In 1334, the caftle, town, and county of Berwick, was by Edward 
 Baliol granted to King Edward III., to be annexed to the crown of 
 England for ever, with divers other towns, caftles, and lordfhips, 
 
 bars, and well ftrengthencd with iron. This cage to be fo contrived, that the Countefs might 
 have therein the convenience of a privy, proper care being taken that it did not leffen the fecu- 
 rity of her perfon : That the faid Countefs being put in tin's cage fhould be fo carefully guarded, 
 that fhe fhould not by any means go out of it: that a woman or two of the town of Berwick, of 
 unfufpe£ted character, mould be appointed to adminilter her food and drink, and attend her on 
 other occafions: and that he mould caufe her to be fo ftri&ly guarded in the faid cage, as not to 
 be permitted to fpeak to any perfon, man or woman, of the Scottifh nation, or any other, except 
 the woman or women afligned to attend her, or her other guards. 
 
 The perfon having the charge of her, to be anfwerable for her, body for body, and to be al- 
 lowed his expeoces. 
 
 The fame directions were given refpefting Mary, filler ef Robert Bruce, to be confined in a 
 cage in the Caftle of Roxburgh. 
 
 VOL. I. G G &tc,
 
 U4 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 &c, as a recompence for his cxpenccs and labours in recovering and 
 rcftoring to him his inheritance, eftimated at the value of 2ocol. fter- 
 ling per annum. 
 
 In 1355, the Scots regained the town and caftle; but it was- recovered 
 by the Englifh the next year. In the firft of Richard II., 15JJ, it was 
 furprifed by the Scots, but recovered by the Earl of Northumberland ; 
 they took it again 1378, and the Earl again retook it. Henry VI. gave 
 them up after the battle of Towton in 1461. Edward IV. recovered it 
 in 1482 ; fmce which it has continued in the hands of the Englifh. 
 
 In 1405, King Henry IV. fummoned his forces to feize the Earl of 
 Northumberland's territories in the north, when he attacked the caftle 
 of Berwick, then commanded by Sir William Grayftock, who held 
 out a long time ; but a confiderable part of one of the towers being at 
 laft demolifhed by the firft fhot from a cannon of large bore, (faid to 
 be the firft ufed in England) the caftle furrendered. The governor 
 and chief officers were beheaded. 
 
 In the year 1559, great additions were made to the fortifications of 
 the town and caftle of Berwick, under the direction of Sir James 
 Crofts, who, as a reward for his diligence, obtained the appointment 
 of captain of that town and caftle, in the room of Lord Eure. 
 
 A. D. 1560, according to Camden, a refolution was made to increafc 
 the ftreneth of Berwick ; for this purpofe its compafs was much re- 
 duced, and its new walls and ramparts, on the land fide, laid out, and 
 conftrucled with ramparts and baftions according to the method of 
 fortification, not long before invented. At the fame time its garrifon, 
 which had formerly confifted of five hundred men, was confiderably 
 augmented, and thofe who ferved in it had additional pay. Their 
 difcipline was alfo rendered more ftricl:. 
 
 Anno 1603, King James VI. of Scotland, and firft of England, in 
 order to extinguifh all memory of paft hoftilities between his kingdoms, 
 orohibited the name of borders any longer to be ufed, fubftituting in its 
 place that of the middle fhires. He ordered all the places of ftrength, 
 except the habitations of noblemen and barons, to be demolifhed, and 
 reduced the garrifon of Berwick to an hundred men, of whom William 
 Bowyer was appointed captain— This view was drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 Roxburgh-
 
 < 

 
 ( «S ) 
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 THE ABBET OF KELSO. 
 
 1. his was an abbey of Tironefian monks, brought over rrom France 
 by King David, when Earl of Cumberland, during the reign of his 
 brother Alexander the Fierce. Thefe monks were firfl piaced at Sel- 
 kirk, where David affigned them an ample provifion of lands and 
 revenues: after his acccffion to the crown he transferred them to Rox- 
 burgh as a commodious place, and finally to Kelfo> as being yet more 
 eligible for their refidence and accommodation, where, by the advice 
 of John, Bifhop of Glafgow, he founded this monaftery on the zd of 
 May, 1 128, and dedicated it to the honour of the BleiTed Virgin Mary, 
 and St. John the Evangelift. This King greatly augmented his do- 
 nations made to this houfe, exempted them from divers tolls and fer- 
 vices, and obtained for them, from divers Popes, a number of confi- 
 derable privileges. Innocent the Second ratified this royal foundation, 
 and Alexander the Third granted to the abbot the honour of wearing 
 the mitre, with Pontifical robes, and power to aflift at all general 
 councils. Innocent the Third rendered him independent of all epifco- 
 pal jurifdiction. This abbot, and his monks alio, obtained from the 
 Bifhop of St. Andrews, their diocefan, an exemption from all kinds of. 
 exactions or tribute, and a right to receive ordination, and the other 
 facraments, from any bifhop, either of Scotland or Cumberland. 
 
 Perhaps, be!;c|es the advancement of religion, King David might 
 have an eye to the introduction of arts and manufactures into this 
 kingdom ; as, in the hiftory of the Monaftic orders, it is faid, that 
 Bernard D' Abbeville, the founder of the Tyronehan rules, directed 
 that the monks of his order fhould practife all forts of handicrafts, as 
 well to prevent idlencfs, the root of all evil, a3 to procure the neceila- 
 ries of life ; for which purpofe the different artificers and labourers 
 
 wrought
 
 4 i € ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 wrought under the inspection cf an elder, and the produce of their la- 
 bour was put into the common ftock for the maintenance of" the houfc. 
 
 To this abbey belonged the churches of Selkirk, Roxburgh, Inner- 
 lethan, Molle, Sproufion, Hume, Lambden, Greenlaw Symprink, 
 Keith Mackerftonc, Maxwell, and Gordon, with divers others, with 
 their tythes and the fchools of Roxburgh. Malcolm IV., grandfon 
 to King David I., gave them the church of Innerlethan, and granted 
 a charter in 1 159, confirming all prior donations. 
 
 By the accounts given in at the reformation, the revenues of this 
 houfe appear to have been as follows: — In money, 2501 1. 16s. jd. 
 fterling ; nine chaldrons of wheat ; fifty-two chaldrons, fix bolls, and 
 two firlots of bear; ninety-two chaldrons, twelve bolls, three firlots, 
 and one peck of meal ; one chaldron and three bolls of oats ; one 
 tidder of hay ; and one pound weight of pepper. 
 
 The priory of Lefmehago in Clydfdale, founded by Fergus, Lord 
 of Galloway, was a cell to the abbey of Kelfo. The revenues of this 
 priory were as follows : — In money, 1214I. 4s. 6d. fterling; fifteen 
 chaldrons, eight bolls, one firlot, and two pecks of bear ; forty-one 
 chaldrons, eight bolls, and three firlots of meal ; and four chaldrons 
 and three bolls of oats. 
 
 This monaftery, with all its poffeffions, were, at the Reformation, 
 granted to its prefent noble owner, his grace the Duke of Roxburgh ; 
 among whofe archives the original charter of Malcolm IV. is ftill pre- 
 fer ved. 
 
 Although this monaftery, and that of Melrofe, were founded by 
 the fame prince, and within eight years of each other, yet the churches 
 which remain feem, from their different ftiles of architecture, to have 
 been erected at very diftant periods. That of Melrofe, being of the 
 ornamental Gothic ftile, which did not take place till the reign of 
 King Edward II., is moft probably the building begun by the liberality 
 of Robert Bruce, after a former deftroyed by the Englifh in 1322. 
 Whereas that of Kelfo is, in all its parts, of that plain and under- 
 rated ftyle called Saxon, or early Norman, which was in general ufe 
 in this ifland at the time this monaftery was founded, and from which 
 manner there was no great deviation till about the year 1 135. 
 
 The
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 117 
 
 The church of this monaftery has been ufed by the town of Kelfo 
 as a place of divine worfhip till within thefe few years : the danger of 
 its falling, apprehended from its apparent decay, was the caufe of a 
 more commodious building being creeled within the church-yard. 
 There ftill remains of this abbatial church the whole tranfept, the 
 fouthern and weftern tower, which flood at the interfection of the 
 tranverfe parts of this building, and a part of the fouth wall of the 
 nave, in which there is an arch that communicated between the cloy- 
 fter and the body of the church. Thefe remains are fuppofed to be 
 part of the original ftru&ure built and endowed by King David I. 
 
 Tins view, which fhews the north afpecl, was drawn A. D. 1787, 
 
 RO XBURQH CASTLE. 
 
 JlVoxburgh Castle is fituated on an eminence near the confluence 
 of the Tweed and Tiviot, about a mile fouth weft of Kelfo. 
 
 The following very accurate and particular hiftory and defcription 
 of this caftle is tranferibed from Mr. Hutchinfon's view of Northum- 
 berland, and excurfion to the abbey of Mailrofs : 
 
 " Roxburgh Castle at prefent confiding of little more than a 
 lofty eminence, of an oblong figure, elevated above the plain about 
 forty perpendicular feet, chiefly natural; on the brink of which are the 
 remains of a wall, the outward defence of the ancient caftle; the in- 
 terior part is now planted with trees. This mount is defended at the 
 foot of the north and weft fides by a deep moat and outward rampier 
 of earth : a fine plain intervening between thefe outworks of the caf- 
 tle and the river. The dimenfions within the walls, where the interior 
 fortrefs ftood, we could not obtain for the trees and thickets. The 
 weftern point is guarded by an outwork and mound of earth, which 
 is fevered from the chief part of the caftle by a moat, but included in 
 the outward works, the fofs and rampier before defcribed. The fofs 
 or moat was fupplied with water by a dam which crolfed the river Ti- 
 viot in an oblique direction, the remains of which ftill appear. The 
 fouth and eaft fides are defended by an inacceffible precipice, at whofe 
 foot the river runs with a rapid current." 
 
 vol,, I. h h Camdex
 
 1 18 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 Camden fays, "this caftle was anciently called Marchidun, from 
 its {landing on the marches ; and, for natural iituation and towered 
 fortifications, was in times paft exceeding ftrong. The fortrefs having 
 been furprifed by the Englifh, James II. of Scotland, whilft he laid 
 fiege to it with a large army to recover it, was fain by the burfting 
 of a large piece of ordnance. As for the caftle, it was furrendered, and 
 then rafed. It is now, in a manner, quite vanifhed, and its ancient 
 grandeur totally defaced." 
 
 Mr. Pennant fays, " the firft mention I find of it is in 1 132, when 
 a treaty was concluded here on the part of King Stephen, by Thur- 
 ftan, Archbifhop of York, between him and King David I." But in 
 Symcon Dunelm, we are informed, that John, Cardinal of Crima, le- 
 gate of Pope Honorius, came to the Scottish King at Roxburgh, in the 
 year 1 1 25, to determine the controverfy touching the primacy of York 
 over the Scottifh church. In 11 26, King David returning from the 
 Court of England, was attended to Roxburgh by Thurftan, Archbifhop 
 of York ; Ralph, Bifhop of Durham; and Algar, Prior of St. Cuth- 
 bcrt's convert, in Durham. 
 
 King David I. made this the place of his refidence during the reign 
 of his brother Alexander. Hither he brought his favourite monks of 
 Tyrone, from Selkirk, before he placed them at Kelfo, and built the 
 abbey there. He added to the ftrength of the place, increafed its for- 
 tifications, and made it one of the chief bulwarks of his kingdom. 
 
 Malcolm Macbeth, who pretended to be the fon of Earl Angus, 
 and was in arms againft his fovereign King David in 1134, was impri- 
 foned in the tower of Roxburgh. 
 
 In 1209 William the Lion affembled a great army at Roxburgh to 
 oppofe King John, who had approached the borders, and lay at Nor- 
 ham; but hoftilities were prevented by a timely convention and a truce. 
 
 In 1 2 15 King John, incenfed againft the northern Barons for their 
 doing homage to King Alexander II. at Felton, marched northward in 
 the middle of winter, and laid the country wafte with fire and fword, 
 exercifing the greateft cruelties on the diftracfed inhabitants. 
 
 In 1239 Roxburgh appears to have been reftored, for here King Alex- 
 ander II. celebrated his marriage on the 4th of March in that year, with 
 the daughter of Ingelram de Conei; and on the 4th of Sept. 1241, 
 
 the
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. u 9 
 
 the Queen brought forth a Ton here, Alexander, who fucceedcd to the 
 Crown of Scotland. 
 
 In 1255 Roxburgh was the place of refuge for Alexander III. and 
 his young Queen, who had been prohibited confummation of their 
 marriage by the guardians of the kingdom, of which complaint had 
 been fent to King Henry III., her farther, wherein me fet forth the 
 hardfhips fhe underwent from the guardians who held her in ftriit 
 confinement, refufed her the attendants and maids fhe chofe, and de- 
 barred her from the embraces of her hufband. The Earl of Gloucefter, 
 with others, fent by King Henry, affifted by the Earl of Dunbar and 
 his adherents, furprifed the caftle of Edinburgh ; and, taking pofleffion 
 of the perfons of the King and Queen, conveyed them under a ftrong 
 guard to Roxburgh, where the Queen's diftreftes were relieved, al- 
 though her royal fpoufe was only fourteen years of age. 
 
 Prince Edward, fon of Henry III , when on an expedition againft. 
 the northern rebels, who were in combination againft John de Vefcy, 
 alter his forfeiture of Alnwick, proceeded to Roxburgh in the year 
 1266, where he was received with the greateft demonftrations of joy 
 by the King and Queen of Scotland, attended on that occafion by a 
 numerous body of the Scotch nobility. 
 
 The marriage of Alexander, Prince of Scotland, to the daughter 
 of the Earl of Flanders, was celebrated here on the 9th of April, 1283, 
 the nuptial feaft being continued for fifteen days with the greateft 
 magnificence. 
 
 King Edward I., in 1296, reduced the caftle of Roxburgh, where 
 he continued feveral days with his army; during which time he was 
 reinforced with 15,000 frefh troops from Wales. 
 
 In the fucceeding year Edward, having muftered his forces at New- 
 caftle, with an army of 2,000 heavy armed horfe, 1,200 light horfe, 
 and 100,000 foot, proceeded to the Scotch border. The Scotch armv, 
 which for a confiderable time had laid before Roxburgh, in hopes of 
 reftoring to his liberty the Biihop of Rochcfter, who was prifoner 
 there, hearing of fo great an army advancing, raifed the fiege. The 
 relief brought by the.Englifh tO'the garrifon of Roxburgh caftle was 
 highly feafonable, for they were already reduced to great hardmips ; 
 
 and
 
 .igo ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 and the inhabitants of the town, from the circumvallation formed by 
 the Scotch, were brought to great diftrefs for want of provifions. 
 
 On Shrove J uefday, in the year 1313, the garrilon of Roxburgh, 
 indulging themfelves on that feftival in an impolitic fecurity, were 
 given up to riot and diffipation, when. they were furprifedby Sir James 
 Douglas, with a refolutc band, who, having approached in difguife, 
 mounted the walls by ladders of ropes. The name of Douglas echoed 
 through the place, and roufed the Englifh from their feftivity and 
 drunkennefs, many of them falling under the fword of the affailants. 
 Their Governor retired into the great tower with a few of his men, 
 where, after two days refinance, having received a wound in his face 
 by an arrow, he furrendered the fortrefs. King Robert Bruce, on 
 receiving intelligence of this exploit, fent his brother Edward to de- 
 molish the fortifications, which he effected with great labour. 
 
 King Edward III., in 1334, having come to Newcaftle in quality 
 of Supreme of Scotland, received the homage of Edward Baliol in a 
 public and folcmn manner, at which time Baliol, as a recompence 
 for the expences King Edward had fuftained in recovering and reftor- 
 ing to him his inheritance, by letters patent alienated to him, amongft 
 other things, the town and caftle of Roxburgh, to be annexed to and 
 incorporated with the Crown of England for ever. 
 
 In 1341, we find Roxburgh again in the pofTemon of the Scotch, 
 having been recovered by Sir Alexander Ramfay for King David Bruce. 
 
 King Edward III., in 1356, received from Baliol a formal fur- 
 render of his right to the Crown of Scotland. This he performed by 
 the ceremony of delivering his crown, with fomc of the foil of Scot- 
 land, at Roxburgh, where Edward refided fome days. This King 
 twice celebrated his birth-day in this caftle. 
 
 In 1372* George Dunbar, Earl of March, accompanied by his bro- 
 ther the Earl of Murray, with a large body of their dependants, en- 
 tered Roxburgh at the time of the annual fair, and, in revenge of the 
 death of one of their followers, who was flain the preceding year in an 
 affray, flew all the Englifh they found in the town, plundered it of the 
 great quantities of merchandife and goods which were collected there 
 on the above occafion, and reduced the town tq afhes. 
 
 Kino
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. rai 
 
 King James II. of Scotland, availing himfelf of a neglect in the 
 Englifh of attending a propofed convention for continuing the truce 
 in 1460, raifed an army with great expedition, with which he ad- 
 vanced againft Roxburgh ; at the firft afiault he took the town, and 
 levelled it with the ground. A regular fiege was laid to the cattle. 
 Here the Scotch King was joined by great reinforcements; among 
 which was the Earl of Huntley, with his followers. The King, for 
 former fervices, defirous of honouring Huntley, (hewed him every 
 mark of eftcem and royal favour: he conducted him to the trenches, 
 to obferve the difcharge of his artillery ; one of which was remark- 
 able for its fize, and had the name of the Lion. The King took de- 
 light in attending thefe operations, in which he fhevved a diltinguifhed 
 intrepidity, but in the end loll his life thereby ; one of his pieces of 
 ordnance in this (lege, to which he had approached too near, burft 
 in difcharging, whereby the Earl of Angus, who flood near the King, 
 was much wounded, at the inftant that a fplinter broke the King's 
 thigh, and flruck him dead. This is the tragical circumflance before 
 quoted by Camden. The queen, with her eldefl fon, then a boy of 
 about feven years of age, is faid to have been in the camp at the time 
 of this dreadful cataftrophe : me fuftained the mock with heroic 
 firmnefs, exhorted the chiefs to defift from unavailing lamentations, 
 and to teftify their reverence for the King's memory by carrying on the 
 fiege with redoubled vigour. Her exhortations had the defired effect : 
 the befiegers exerted their utmoft efforts. The garrifon, finding 
 themfelves reduced to extremities, furrendered the fortrefs : and, as 
 Ridpath in his border hiftory fays, " that the place which the. Englifh 
 had held for more than one hundred years might thenceforth ceafe to 
 be a center of rapine and violence, or a caufe of future ftrife between 
 the nations, the victors reduced it to a heap of ruins." 
 
 We do not find that the fortrefs was reftored, or that any repairs 
 were made to it, to render it tenable until 1547. When the Englifh 
 army, led by the Protector, paffing the Tweed after the battle of Muf- 
 felbrough, encamped on the plain over-againft Kelfo, between the 
 ruins of the ancient caftle of Roxburgh and the confluence of the 
 Tweed and Tiviot, the Proteclor obferving the convenient fituation 
 of this ruined fortrefs, determined to make it tenable ; the breaches 
 
 vol. 1. 11 in
 
 122 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 in part of the ancient walls were filled with bankings of turf, he 
 having reduced the fortrefs in fize, by cafting up deep trenches on 
 the eaft and weft ends within, and fortified them with a wall. Pat- 
 ten's account of thefe repairs is in the following terms : " That one 
 groat ditch of twenty feet broad, with depth accordingly, and a wall 
 of like breadth, depth, and height, lhould be made crofs within the 
 caftle, from the one fide wall to the other, and forty feet from the 
 weft end ; and that a like trench and wall fhould alfo be caft a-tra- 
 verfe within, about a cart's caft from the caft end ; and hereto that 
 the caftle walls on either fide where need was, fhould be mended with- 
 turf, and made with loop holes, as well for fhooting dircclly forwards, 
 as for flanking at hand." So intent was the Proteclor on this work, 
 that he laboured at it with his own hands two hours every day whilft 
 it was a;oing on : and his example was followed by moft of the prin- 
 cipal men of his army. 
 
 The place was made dcfenfible in fix days, and there was left in it 
 a garrifon of three hundred foldiers and two hundred pioneers, under 
 Sir Ralph Bulmer. 
 
 Mr. Pennant fays, " a large holly, furrounded by a wall, marks 
 the fpot where James II. fell ;" but it was not noted to me when I 
 vifited the place. 
 
 The adjoining territory from the old caftle and town is called the 
 Sheriffdom of Roxburgh, of which the Douglafes are hereditary She- 
 riffs, and ufually denominated Sheriffs of Tiviotdale. 
 
 This view was drawm A.D. 17S7. 
 
 MARLROSS, OR MELROSE ABBEY,. TIVIOTDALE. 
 
 J. here was an old monaftery of this name founded in the time of 
 the Saxons: it is mentioned by Bede as exifting in the year 664. It was 
 lituated about a mile and a half to the eaft of the prefent town of Melrofe. 
 It is uncertain by whom it was founded, but probably by Columbus, or 
 Adian. St. David finding this monaftery greatly decayed, laid the foun- 
 dations of the prefent building in the year 1 136, having chofen a new 
 and pleafant fituation near the fouthern banks of the Tweed. This fecond 
 
 founda-
 
 * 
 
 H 
 
 , : iiiii, ls ,
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. i 2 * 
 
 o 
 
 foundation is recorded by various chronicles, and alfo by this old 
 monkilh rhyme : 
 
 Anno Milleno, centcno, ter quoque dcno 
 Et fexto Chrifti, Melrofe fundata fuifti. 
 
 The houfc being completed, David peopled it with Ciftertian- 
 monks, brought from the abbey of Rival, in Yorkfhire, and A. D. 1146", 
 ten y^ars after its foundation, dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. It- 
 was the mother church to all the Ciftertian order in Scotland. 1 he 
 monks wrote a chronicle of this houfe, beginning at A. D. 733, and 
 continued down to 1272. It had many endowments, befides thofe of 
 King David, particularly by King Alexander II., the family of Stuarts, 
 Hugh Giffard, Lord Yefter, and William the Firft, Earl of Douglas. 
 In the year 136 1 the revenues of this houfe, by the account taken,, 
 appeared to be as follows : 
 
 In money, 1758I. per annum. 
 
 Chalders. Bolls. Firlots. 
 Wheat - - 14 9. o 
 
 Bear - - - 56 5 o 
 
 Meal - - - 78 1 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 Aittes - - 44 10 o 
 
 Capons - - 84 
 
 Poultry - - 620 
 
 Butter - - 105 ftone 
 
 Salt - - 8 chalders, paid out of Prefton pans 
 
 Peats - - 340 loads 
 
 Carriages - 500 
 
 After the Reformation the abbey of Mailrofs was granted by Queen 
 Mary to James, Earl ot Bothwell, who forfeited the fame. James 
 Douglas was next appointed commendator : he took down much of 
 the buildings in order to ufe the materials in creeling himfelf a large 
 manfion, which Mr. Pennant lays is ftill Handing, and dated 1590. 
 By the care of this gentleman, or one of his defcendants, all the 
 evidences of this abbey's poifeffions were preferved, and are in the 
 cuftody of the family. " A grant was made of this monaftery 
 
 (fays
 
 124 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 (fays Hutchinfon) to John Ram fay by King James VI., and confirmed 
 by Parliament as a reward for preferving the King againft a traitorous 
 attempt by Lord Gowry ; he was created Lord Haddington, and after- 
 wards made a Peer of England, by the title of Earl of HoldernefTe. 
 It came afterwards to Sir Thomas Hamilton, who was created Earl 
 of Maiirofs in 1619, and afTumed, on that occafion, three rofes in his 
 coat armour: he afterwards took the title of Haddington. The abbey, 
 with its demefnes, was lately purchafed by the family of Buccleugh. 
 Thomas, Lord Binny, was created Earl of Maiirofs, March 20, 1619. 
 
 The following lift of abbots of this houfe was collected from differ- 
 ent authorities : 
 
 Richard, the firft abbot, died at C'larivaux in the year 1149 — none 
 fine fantthatis op'mione. St. Walter, or Waldeve, the fecond abbot 
 hereof: he was a fon of King David; and being elected bifhop of St. 
 Andrews, refufed epifcopacy: he died A. D. 115 ->, and was afterwards 
 canonifed, having, whilft living performed feveral miracles. Joceline, 
 a man of great learning, afterwards bifhop of Glafgow. Laurentius. 
 Ranulph, A. D. 1194. William, the ninth abbot, died in 1206. This 
 was the forty-eighth year after the death of St. Walter. William was 
 equally efteemed for his fanclfity; and on his death it was refolved 
 that their bodies fliould be laid together. On opening his grave there 
 iffued forth a moft fragrant fmell : the body was found entire, and the 
 veftments as frefh and beautiful as when put on. Adam, cmbaffador 
 to John, King of England, A. D. 1209, chofen bifhop of Caithnefs in 
 the year 1213, and burned in his kitchen at Howkirk in the year 1231. 
 
 In the year 1240 the bones of the abbots of Maiirofs, that lay in the 
 entrance of the chapter houfe, were taken up and more decently bu- 
 ried in the eaftern part of the chapter houfe; all, excepting the bones 
 of St. Walter, whole fepulchre was opened, and his body found at laft 
 crumbled into duft : thofe who were prefent carried off lb me of the 
 fmall bones, leaving the reft to repofe in peace. One of the company 
 was William, fon of the Earl of Dunbar, and nephew to the King, a 
 knight of great fame : he begged and obtained one of the faint's teeth, 
 by which he is faid to have wrought many cures. 
 
 Robert of Kindalach, formerly a monk and abbot of Dumfermline, 
 
 thereafter
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. i>g 
 
 thereafter Chancellor of Scotland, was made abbot of this place in the 
 year 1269, and died in the year 1273. 
 
 In 1296 one Patrick, then abbot of Mailrofs, fwore fealty to King 
 Edward 1. John Fogo, abbot alfo of this monaftery, was confeffor 
 to King James I. ; and Andrew Hunter, abbot of this place, was con- 
 feffor to King James IT., and lord high treafurer in 1449. Duroys 
 and Foggos appear in the fame lift ; and alfo James Stuart, eldcft na- 
 tural fon to King James I.: he was abbot of Kelfo, and alfo of Mail- 
 rofs, and died about the year 1559. After him Cardinal de Guife was 
 nominated, but never infialled. 
 
 This monaftery fuffered many injuries in the wars between Scotland 
 and England ; in the year 1322 it was pillaged and burned by the 
 troops of King Edward II. ; again by King Richard II. ; and, in the 
 reign of King Henry VIII., by Sir Ralph Ivcrs and Sir Bryan Layton. 
 
 The remains of this monaftery confift of fome fragments of the 
 cloifters, richly ornamented ; and the ruins of the church, part of 
 which ftill ferves for parochial ufes. Nothing can exceed the ele- 
 gance and finifhing of the windows, and beauty of the ornaments, 
 with which this building was profufely adorned ; for although this 
 church was founded by King David, very little of the original ftruc- 
 ture is remaining, moft of the architecture being of the ornamented 
 Gothic, a ftile that did not take place till upwards of a century after 
 that period. This circumftance may be accounted for by the frequent 
 repairs it muft neceffarily have undergone, after the barbarous ravages 
 before mentioned. Towards one of thefe repairs, in 1326", King 
 Robert Brus gave two thoufand pounds fterling. 
 
 The name of the architect who had the care of this venerable pile, 
 as well as of divers other cathedrals and monafteries in this kingdom, 
 is preferved by two inferiptions, in the old Englifh letter, on a wall on 
 the left as you enter the fouth aile. Over one is an efcutcheon, with 
 two pair of compaffes in faltire between three trefoils. This is fo de- 
 faced to be in part illegible — the name of the architect fpelt ^fOhnt 
 ffiOX60 : Thefe lines, according to divers authors, ran thus : 
 So geyes the compafs ev'n about 
 So truth and loute do but doubt 
 Behold to the end John Murdo. 
 
 vol. i. k k. The
 
 126 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 The fenfe is here evidently defective; nor do the letters in feveraF 
 of the words correfpond with thofe that are legible in the original in- 
 fcription. 
 
 The other which here follows was copied with the utmoft care by 
 a gentleman, whole accuracy may be depended on, and who got up- 
 on a ladder to read it : 
 
 John : Murow : fum : tym : callit : 
 was : I ; and : born : in paryffe : 
 certanly : and : had : in : kepyng : 
 al : mafom : werk ? of fantan 
 droys : ye : hye : kyrk ? of = glafs 
 gw : melros : and : paflay : ot : 
 nyddys dayll : and : of : galway 
 : pray : to god : and mari : bath i 
 and - 
 
 The two laft lines are obliterated, but are thus fupplicd from tradition:: 
 
 And fweet St, John keep this 
 Haly Kyrk frae fkaith. 
 
 It is remarkable that, in this infeription, the architect's name is 
 fpelt ATurow ; in the other, Murdo, the d being turned the wrong 
 way ; a matter not uncommon in old inferiptions. 
 
 The following defcription of this building is taken from Mr. 
 Hutchinfon, who feems to have confidered it with great attention : 
 
 " The view from the entrance into the church-yard is noble. This 
 church is in the form of a crofs; the fouth end of the tranfept prefented 
 itfelf in front ; the arching of the door way is compofed of a femicircle, 
 with various members of the moft delicate work falling behind each 
 other, fupported on light and well-proportioned pilafters ; on each fide 
 is a projection of rich Tabernacle work. The corners of this end of the 
 ftruclures are compofed of angular buttreflcs, terminated by fpires of 
 Tabernacle work. Thefe buttrefles are pierced with niches for ftatues : 
 the pedeftals and canopies are of the lighted Gothic order, and orna- 
 mented
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 127 
 
 merited with garlands of flowers in pierced work* ; above the fouth gate 
 are feveral niches for liatues, decreafing in height as the arch rifes, in 
 which fome mutilated effigies remain, many in ftanding pofitions, others 
 fitting, faid to reprefent the apoftles; but by their apparel I conceived 
 
 they 
 
 * From the manufcript of Roger Gale, Efq. 
 The following account was communicated to Roger Gale, Efq. by Mr. Francis Drake of York. — 
 
 " SIR, Norham, 14th July, 1/42. 
 
 " I could heartily with that fome judicious brother of your Antiquarian Society was but to 
 fee a Gothic rarity that is in this neighbourhood, viz. the beauteous ruins of the Abbey of Mail- 
 rofs, which I fhall take upon me to fay, has been the mofi exquifite ftru&ure of its kind in either 
 kingdom : I won't fay but other abbies have been larger, fuch at St. Albans, and fome conven- 
 tual churches more auguft, as Beverley; but this of Mailrofs is extravagantly rich in its imagety, 
 niches, and all forts of carving, by the heft hands that Europe could produce at that time : nay, 
 there is fuch a profundi of nice chifel work in foliage and flowers, at the very top of the fteeple, 
 that it cannot be feen from the ground without the help of a glafs The capital of every pillar 
 that fupports the arches of the church and the doo-s are all hollowed with a fmall tool, being 
 wreathed work of all forts of flowers, fuch as you have at the entrance of your chapter houfe at 
 York. Every brother has had a ftall in the cloittet, (now much demolifhed,; which have been 
 varioufly adorned with the leaves of fern, oak, palm holly, or fome other kind of trees. 
 
 " The building from the fteeple to the eaft end is entire in the walls, but the roof (which has 
 been of ftone carved) is much decayed. 
 
 . " The quire is but fmall, but has a noble eaft window, the glafs all out ; therein lies a marble 
 ftone without any infeription, half a hexagon, tapering fmaller at the foot, of a bright green co- 
 lour, ami powdered full of white feathers. 
 
 " The whole ftrudlure is of the form of a St. John of Jerufalem's Crofs; the north and fouth 
 ailes pretty compleat ; at the north fide of which is a ftaircafe that led to the prior's houfe. 
 
 " From the fteeple weflward remain fix arches of the nave, in which is the prefect kirk that 
 takes up about three of them; but how much farther the ancient church has extended, I believe 
 will be hard to know. 
 
 " In every arch of the knave, both north and fouth, has run a crofs wall into the two fide aihs 
 making fo many facella each; with an altar and holy water pot. The windows are of an equal 
 dimenfion, but varioufly figured and carved. 
 
 " The cloifter has been on the north fide of the church, which opened into a garden that led to 
 the Tweed, that is a good breadth; and there was another garden on the oppofite fide of the river. 
 Our neighbours are not wanting in the faculty of amplifying; but this thing does really exceed all 
 their exaggerations of praife. By this you'll fneer, and fay I have lived too long here, and am 
 become as vain as they ; however, I ftand to my affertion. 
 
 " There is printed an upright of this abbey that is ill done. I could will; there was not only an 
 cxaft whole plate, but alfo a view of the eaft end, with a diftind draught of the doors, columns, ca- 
 pitals, and fome of the fins ft images, which are fo well finifhed to the life, that Dr. King, of Oxford,
 
 i*8 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 they were reprefentations of the patrons of the church. In the center 
 are the arms of Scotland, a lion rampant in reverfe, with a double tref- 
 furc; above which is the effigy of John the Baptift, to the waift, fuf- 
 pended on a cloud cafting his looks upwards, and bearing on his bofom 
 a fillet, inferibed " Ecce Jili/ts Dei." This is a very delicate fculp- 
 ture, and in good prefervation. On the buttrefs, eaft of the door, is 
 the effigy of a monk fufpended in like manner, fupporting on his 
 fhoulders the pedeftal of the niche above ; in his -hands a fillet is 
 extended, on which is inferibed " PqJJits e. q. ipfe vo/uit." "j" On 
 the weftern buttrefs is the like effigy bearing a fillet, inferibed " Cu- 
 venit Je/ii. feq. ce/fabit umbra. \ Thefe two fculptures are of excel- 
 lent workmanfhip. To the weft ward of this laft effigy is the figure 
 of a cripple, on the fhoulders of one that is blind, well executed ; 
 under which you read " Unf/e Dei." Above the fouth door is an 
 elegant window, divided by four principal bars or mullions, termi- 
 nating in a pointed arch ; the tracery light, and collected at the fum- 
 mit into a wheel ; the ftone work of the whole window yet remaining 
 perfect. This window is twenty-four feet in height within the arch, 
 and fixteen in breadth : the mouldings of the arch contain many 
 members, graced with a filletting of foliage ; the outward member 
 runs into a point of pinnacle-work, and enclofes a niche highly orna- 
 mented, which, it is faid, contained the figure of our Lord. There are 
 
 who has been lately to fee it, wifhed they were taken down and preferved from the weather. The 
 whole building is of a fine ftone. 
 
 " I could wifli alfo there was an exac\ ichnography drawn of the whole. The minifler is a 
 good, fenfible man, a lover of this kind of antiquity, and is daily ftudying the walls of this church. 
 He fliewed me fome of the glafs of the windows, which is of an uncommon thicknefs, not riained 
 through, but painted upon. 
 
 " If by (his mean effort your fociety could be prevailed upon to lake this flrufture into their 
 consideration (I know not how far the Scotch gentlemen are engaged in their Monaflicon ScoticouJ 
 I have gained my end, efpecially if you will vouchfafe me the favour of an anfwer to this ; who 
 am, dear coufin, 
 
 " Tour's affe&ionately, 
 
 '« F. DRAKE. 
 
 " P. S. You know our St. Cutbert was educated at this abbey. Over a door is the date of the 
 work, and the name of the architect. Mr. Browne Willes has had an account of this abbey fent 
 him." 
 
 -f Read " Paflus eft quia ipfe voluet." % " Cum venit Jefus, fequitur umbra." 
 
 eight
 
 ROXBU it G U SHIRE. 129 
 
 eight niches which fink gradually on the fides of the arch, formerly 
 appropriated to receive the ftatues or" the apofllcs. The whole fouth 
 end rifes to a point to form the roof, garniihed with an upper mould- 
 ing, which is ornamented with a fillet of excellent roie work: the cen- 
 ter is terminated by a fquare tower. It will fuffice to remark in this 
 place, that the pedcftals for ftatues in general arc compofed of five 
 members of cornice, fupportcd by palm boughs, or fome other rich- 
 wrought foliage, and terminating at the foot in a point with a triple 
 roll. The caps, or canopies of the niches, are compofed of delicate 
 Tabernacle work, the fpires ornamented with mouldings and a 
 fillet of rofe work, and the fufpended ikirts graced with flowers : the 
 interior of the canopy is of ribbed work, terminating in a fufpended 
 knot in the center. This defcription will do to carry the reader's idea 
 to every particular niche, without my running into the tedioufnefs ot 
 repetition. At the junction of the fouth and weft members of the crofs a 
 hexagon tower rifes, terminating in a pinnacle roofed with ftone, highly 
 ornamented; from hence the aile is extended, fo as to receive three large 
 windows, whofe arches are pointed, each divided by three upright bars 
 or mullions, the tracery various and light ; fome in wheels, and others 
 in the windings of foliage. Thefe windows are feparated by buttreffes, 
 ornamented with niches. Here are fculpturcd the arms of feveral of 
 the abbots, and that alfo of the abbacy, " a mail and rofe." Thefe but- 
 treffes fupport pinnacles of the fincft Tabernacle work. From the feet 
 of thefe laft pinnacles are extended bows or open arches, compofed of 
 the quarter divifion of a circle, abutting to the bottom of another race 
 of buttreffes, which arife at the fide wall of the nave; each of thefe 
 laft buttreifes alfo fnpporting an elegant pinnacle of Tabernacle work, 
 are ornamented with niches, in two of which ftatues remain; one of 
 St. Andrew, the other of the Holy Virgin ; the fide ailes are flatcd, but 
 the nave is covered with an arched roof of hewn ftone. From the weft 
 end of the church is continued a row of buildings, containing five 
 windows, divided by the like buttreffes, the tracery of two of the 
 windows remaining, the reft open ; each of thefe windows appertained 
 to a feparatc chapel, appropriated and dedicated to diftinct perfonages 
 and fervices ; the places of the altars, and the fonts, or holyi-watea" 
 batons, ftill remaining. 
 
 VOL. I. l l At
 
 mo ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 o 
 
 At the weftern extremity ot' this ftructure, on the laft buttrefs, arc 
 the arms of Scotland, fupported by unicorns collared and chained ; the 
 motto above broken, the letters EGIS only remaining. On one fide 
 is the letter I, on the other Q. ; and a date, 1 505, which was the fecond 
 year of the marriage of king James IV., a marriage concerted at this 
 abbey between the King in pcrfon, and Richard Fox, then bifhop of 
 Durham. 
 
 In 1649, tne Uir y °f reformation ftill exifting, the elegant ftatues 
 which ornamented this place were moft facrilegioufly demolifhed. A 
 tradition prevails here, that one of the perfons i'o employed, on finking 
 at the Babe in the Virgin's arms, received a contufion, which difabled 
 him for ever from fuch ufelefs occupation, and {truck fuch a panic on 
 his aflociates, that they fled, and left the mifehievous bufinefs unper- 
 fected. 
 
 The eaft end of the church is compofed of the choir, with a fmall 
 aile on each fide, which appear to have been open to the high altar. 
 This part is lighted by three windows towards the caft, and two fide 
 windows in the aile : the centre window is divided by four upright 
 bars or mullions ; the traceries are of various figures-, but chiefly crofTes. 
 which fupport a large complicated crofs that forms the center; the 
 arching is pointed, and part of the tracery here is broken. The fide 
 lights are near as high as the center, but very narrow, divided by three 
 upright bars or mullions ; the mouldings of the window arches arc 
 fmall and delicate, yet ornamented with a fillet of foliage. On each fide 
 of the great window are niches for ftatues ; and at the top there ap- 
 pear the effigies of an old man fitting, with a globe in his left hand, 
 rcftcd on his knee, with a young man on his right : over their heads 
 an open crown is fufpended. Thefe figures, I prefume, reprefent the 
 divine perfonages. The buttreffes at this end terminate in pinnacles 
 of Tabernacle work ; the mouldings and fculptures are elegantly 
 wrought. 
 
 The north end of the crofs aile of the abbey is not much ornamented 
 without, it having adjoined to the cloifter and other buildings. The door 
 which leads to the fite of the cloifter (the building being demolifhed) is a 
 femicircular arch of many members; the fillet of foliage and flowers is 
 of the higheft finifhing that can be conceived to he executed in freeftonc, 
 
 the
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 131 
 
 the fame being pierced, the flowers and leaves feparated from the 
 ftone behind, and fufpended in a twilled garland. In the mouldings, 
 pinnacle work, and foliage of the feats which remain of the cloifter, 
 I am bold to fay, there is as great excellence to be found as in any 
 ftone work in Europe, for lightnefs, cafe, and difpoiition. Nature is 
 fludiei through the whole, and the flowers and plants are reprcfented 
 as accurately as under the pencil. In this fabric there are the fined: 
 lefions, and the grcateft variety of Gothic ornaments, that the ifland 
 affords, take all the religious ftruclures together. 
 
 The weft fide of the centre tower is yet {landing ; it appears to 
 have fupported a fpire ; a lofs to the dignity and beauty of the prefent 
 remains, to be regretted by every vifitant : the balcony work is beau- 
 tiful, being formed of open rofc work. The prefent height of the 
 tower wall is feventy-five feet. 
 
 The length of this edifice, from eaft to weft, is 258 feet, the crofs 
 aile 137 feet, and the whole contents of its ichnography 943 feet. 
 
 We entered at the fouth door, and no cxpreffion can convey an 
 idea of the folemn magnificence which {truck the eve: the roof of the 
 north and fouth ends of the tranfepts remains, fupported by in- 
 terfering groins, in various directions, of the lightcft order ; the 
 joinings ornamented with knots, fome fculptured with figures, and 
 others of pierced work in flowers and foliage; the arching of the in- 
 terftices conftrucled of thin ftones, clofely jointed ; over the choir, 
 part of the roof of like workmanfhip ftill remains. The fide ailes arc 
 formed by light-cluftered pillars, richly capitalled, with garlands of 
 flowers and foliage difipofed delicately in the mouldings ; in fome the 
 figure of animals are interfperfed. The pillars which fupported the 
 tower towards the eaft are gone, fo that three fides of it are down, 
 leaving a chafm, through which you look up towards the remaining 
 quarter. 
 
 The north aifle is lighted by a circular window, reprefenting a 
 crown of thorns, which makes an uncommon appearance. Here arc 
 the effigies of Peter and Paul, one on each fide of the tower, but of 
 inferior fculpture. 
 
 It is faid Alexander II, King of Scotland, lays buried at the high 
 
 altar,
 
 i 3 * ROXB'l) 11 GH'SHIR E. 
 
 iiltar, and that an infcription denoted his tomb.* But no fuch in- 
 fcription is now to he found. There is a marble tomb, the form of 
 a coffin, on the fouth fide of the high altar; but it bears no infcrip- 
 tion, and is fuppofed to be that of Waldevus, or, Walter, the fecond 
 abbot, who was canonized. The chronicle of Mailross contains this 
 anecdote, "that Ingerim, bifhop of Glafgow, and four abbots, came 
 to Mailross to open the grave, after twelve years interment, when they 
 found the body of Waldevus uncorruptcd: on which, with a religious 
 rapture, they exclaimed, " Fere hie borne Dei ejl" They afterwards 
 placed a marble monument over the remains. 
 
 Many of the noble line of Douglas lay here; among whom is 
 James, the fon of William, Earl of Douglas, who was flain at the 
 battle of Otterburn, and interred with all military honours. Lord 
 Liddifdale, who was ftiled the flower of Chivalry, de Valoniisf, 
 Vauxs, Somerviles, Balfours, and many other men of note, lay in 
 the chapter houfe. 
 
 In the morning, at fun rife, we again returned to thefe fplendid 
 ruins, which had even occupied the vifions of our fleep : we yet had 
 to take a furvey of the nave of the church, which is now ufed for 
 worfhip. On opening the door, it is not to be exprefTed the difagree- 
 able fcene which prefented itfelf: this place is filled with flails ; in 
 the difpofition of which irregularity alone feems to have been ftu- 
 died : fome are raifed on upright beams, as fcaffblds, tier above tier; 
 others fupported againft the walls and pillars : no two are alike in 
 
 * Ecclefiae clypeus, pax plebis, dux miferorum, 
 Rex rectus, rigidus, fapiens, confultus, honeftus; 
 Hex pius, rex fortis, rex optimus, rex opulentus, 
 Nominis iftins ipfe fecundus erat. 
 Annis ter denis & qainis rex fait ipfe 
 Infula quae carneri dicker hunc rapuit. 
 Spiritus a'.ta petit, caeleftibus aiibciatus, 
 Sed MelrofTenfis offa fepulta tenet. 
 
 t He fell a victim to the jealoufy of William I., Earl of Douglas, and was aiTaftinated. ' : ! 
 euloey, in the lives of theDouglafes, p. /8, ftiles him terrible and fearful in arms j meek, mild, 
 and gentle, in peace ; the fcoarge of England, and fure buckler and wall of Scotland, whom nei- 
 ther hard luccefs could make Hack, nor profperous flothful. 
 
 form,
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 133 
 
 form, height, or magnitude ; the fame confufion of little and great, 
 high and low, covers the floor with pews: the lights are fo obftruct- 
 ed, that the place is as dark as a vault : the floor is nothing but the 
 damp earth : naftinefs and irregularity poflefs the whole fcene. The 
 fine workmanfhip of the pillars, whofe capitals, for flowers and foli- 
 age, exceed all the reft of the building; the ribs of the arches, and 
 the ornaments of their interferons, are fcarce to be feen in the hor- 
 rid gloom which poffeffes the place. 
 
 Here are feveral tombs of eminent perfonages: on the north wall 
 is infcribed, under a coat of armour, " Here lies the race of the houfe 
 of Zair." Many altars, bafons for holy water, and other remains of 
 feparate chapels, appear in the ailes; among which are thofe of St. 
 Mary and St. Waldave. 
 
 In one of the ailes in this part of the church is an infcription, cut 
 in a fair letter, but of what import I cannot difcover ; 
 NUNAM : KATINE 
 THOME : PAULI : GUTHB. 
 TE : S : PETR : K : ETIGIN : 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789, from an upper room in the houfe 
 of Riddell, efq. Behind the ruin is feen the river Tweed. 
 
 THE ABBEY OF JEDBURGH. 
 
 1 he Abbey of Jedburgh, or Jedworth, is fituated in Tiviotdale, in 
 the fhire of Roxburgh, on the weft fide of the river Jed, near where it 
 falls into the riverTiviot. It was founded by King David I. for canons 
 regular brought from the abbey St. Quintins, at Bevais, in France. 
 
 This abbey had two cells, Reftenote and Canonby. Reftenote 
 flrands in the fhire of Angus, a mile to the north of Forfar ; it is en- 
 compaffed with a loch, except at one paffage, where it had a draw- 
 bridge. Here all the papers and precious things belonging to Jed- 
 burgh were carefully kept. According to Prynne, Robert, prior of 
 this houfe, fwore fealty to Edward Long Shanks in the year 1296. 
 
 The priory of Canonby is fituated upon the river ofEfk, in Efk- 
 vol. 1. mm dale,
 
 i 3 4 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 dale, and fhire of Roxburgh: it is uncertain by whom, or at what 
 time it was founded; though it feems probable that it was before the 
 year 1296, for then William, prior of this convent, fwears fealty to 
 Edward 1., King of 1 ngland. This monaftcry was frequently plun- 
 dered and burned by the Englifh, and the prior and canons thereof 
 obliged to abandon their dwelling during the heat of war : by which 
 means their records being fo often deftroyed, makes an accurate ac- 
 count of them impoffible. 
 
 Fordun mentions the following abbots of Jedburgh. 
 
 Osbert, the firft abbot, died a. d. 1174. He was fucceeded by 
 Richard Cellarer, of that houfe. 
 
 A. D. 1249, the abbot Philip died, and was fucceeded by Robert 
 de Gifeburn. 
 
 A. D. 1275 abbot Nicholas being fuperannuated, abdicated the paf- 
 toral ftaff. He was a wife and provident man. His fubftitute was 
 John Morel, a canon of the houfe. 
 
 The vicinity of this abbey to the borders fubjected it to the depre- 
 dations of every incurfion or invafion. Thefe were in general car- 
 ried on with the greateft cruelty imaginable ; neither age, fex, nor 
 profeffion, affording the leaft protection, the viclors marking their foot- 
 ileps with fare and fword. 
 
 The ravages committed in the different incurfions made by the Eng- 
 lifh had fo deftroyed this houfe, and reduced its income, as to render 
 it inefficient for the lodging and maintenance of the canons. King 
 Edward I. therefore fent feveral of them to different religious houfes 
 of the fame order in England, there to be maintained till this houfe 
 could be repaired and reftored to better circumftances. One of the 
 writs is ftill extant, by which a canon, named Ingelram de Colonia, 
 was fent to the convent of Bridlington, in Yorkfhire. 
 
 The revenues of this houfe, according to Keith's Appendix, in his 
 Hiftory of the Church and State of Scotland, are, by the furplus books, 
 in which are annexed the dependant priories of Reftenote and Canonbie, 
 Money, 1274I. 10s. The book of the colleclors of the thirds, and that 
 of affumption, make the money 974I. 10s.; probably from the omission 
 of the two dependant priories. Wheat two chalders, two bolls, bear 
 
 " fc twenty-
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. i 35 
 
 twenty-three chalders, meal thirty fix chalders, thirteen bolls, one fir- 
 lot, one peck. Omitted coins, cuftoms, &c* 
 
 This abbacy was erected into a temporal lordfhip in favour of Sir 
 Andrew Ker of Fernherft, anceftor to the Marquis of Lothian. He 
 being a man of great parts and learning, was high in favour with 
 King James VI., who made him, in 1591, one of the gentlemen of 
 his privy chamber, and afterwards raifed him to the dignity of the 
 peerage by the title of Lord Jedburgh, the patent being dated zd Feb. 
 1622. 
 
 This building is partly in ruins, and part ferves as the parifh. church. 
 The workmanfhip is extremely fine. Many of the arches are circular, 
 and feem very antique. 
 
 CASTLE OF GO LD IELAN D S. 
 
 i his caftle ftands about a mile weft from Hawick, in the mire of 
 Roxburgh, fituated on an eminence on the fouth fide of the Tiviot, 
 nearly oppofite to where the water of Borthwick joins with the river. 
 It was anciently the manfion of a family of the furname of Goldy, 
 whence it derived its prefent appellation. It is now the property of his 
 Grace the Duke of Buccleugh. — This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 MINTO TOWER. 
 
 1 his little tower is fituated on a rugged and piclurefque rock on the 
 right hand of the high road leading from Jedburgh to Hawick, and is 
 feen at a confiderable diftance. 
 
 * The valuations given by this author are drawn from the following authorities : Firft, the books 
 of the collectors of the thirds of benefices for the ufe of the Crown. The fecond is from the 
 books of affiimption : thefe contain the particular payments which make up the full rental, (igned 
 either by the birhops and abbots themfelves, or by their chamberlains or factors. Third, the 
 original books of aflignation and furplus of the thirds of benefices. Thefe books ufually contain 
 the whole of the benefices, though fometimes only the thirds, the (Upends paid to minifters, and 
 the furplus refulting to the Crown. 
 
 The
 
 i 3 6 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 The river Tiviot runs at the foot of the rock. 
 
 The barony of Minto formerly belonged to the Earls of Lennox ; it 
 was afterwards the property of Sir Thomas Stewart, fecond fon of Sir 
 Alexander Stewart, of Garlies. From this family it was purchafed by 
 Walter Riddel, fecond fon of Walter Riddel, of Newhoufe, Efq. He 
 left four daughters coheireffes, who fold the eftate and caftle to the 
 predeceffors of the prefent proprietor, Sir Gilbert Elliot, baronet, who 
 takes his defignation from it. 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 LANERK-
 
 ( *37 ) 
 
 LANERKSHIRE. 
 
 ri^ 
 
 THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF BIGGER. 
 
 J. ins church was founded in the year 1545 by Malcolm Lord 
 Fleming, Lord High Chancellor of Scotland, and anceftor to the 
 Earls of Wigton. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endow- 
 ed for a provoft, eight prebendaries, four fmging boys, and fix poor 
 men. " The founder intending it for the burial place of himfelf and 
 family, referved (fays Douglas in his Peerage) the prefentation and 
 patronage thereof to himfelf and fucceflbrs for ever. 
 
 This foundation was firft confirmed by Cardinal Bethune, Arch- 
 bifliop of St. Andrew's, and afterwards by the Pope's bulls. Robert 
 Stuart, natural fon to King James V., abbot of Holyrood Houfe, 
 Edinburgh, and afterwards Earl of Orkney, gave to this college, with 
 the confent of the chapter of his monaftery, and at the requifition of 
 James Lord Fleming, fon of the founder, his relation, the perpetual 
 right of patronage of the parifh church of Dunrod, in the diocefe of 
 Withern, on the 5th of the month of May, in the year 1555. In 
 his difpofition Mafter John Stevenfon, apoftolical prothonotary, pre- 
 centor of the Metropolitan church of Gla/gow, vicar of the faid paro- 
 chial church of Dunrod, is ftiled the firft provoft of the Bleffed Mary 
 of Biggar. 
 
 Tins church is a handfome building, and, from its general appear- 
 ance, feems much older than the time of the foundation here mention- 
 ed : poflfibly it might have been then (landing as a parochial church, 
 and raifed by the Flemings to the dignity of a college. Here, as 
 was before obferved, is the cemetery of the Earls of Wigton ; and 
 here alfo is preferved an ancient vafe, fuppofed Roman. In the days 
 of Popery it was appropriated to facred offices, as it ftill continues 
 to be ; for it is now ufed to contain the water for baptifm. The iron 
 collar, called the Jougs, an inflrument for ecclefiaftical punifliments, 
 vol. I. N n is
 
 138 L A N E R K S H I R E. 
 
 is ftill hanging in a chain in the wall near the door of the church. — 
 This view was drawn A. D. 1789, from a chamber in the houfe of the 
 Rev. Mr. Watfon, minifter of that place. 
 
 BOG HALL, IN CLYDSD ALE. 
 
 J. his caftle ftands upon a flat, or rather a marfhy ground, half a mile 
 diftant from the town of Biggar. It is, probably from its fituation, 
 called Bog Hall. 
 
 The building was at a diftance encompaffed by a fofs, or ditch, and 
 within that by a ftone wall, flanked with towers. The entrance was 
 through a handfome gate. 
 
 The dwelling houfe is in ruins; it feems more modern than the 
 furrounding walls or towers. On it is the date 1670. Upon the front 
 of the flaircafe are the arms of the Earls of Wigton, quartered with 
 thofe of Primrofe. 
 
 This place formerly belonged to the Flemings, Earls of Wigton, a 
 family of great antiquity. They acquired the lands and barony of 
 Biggar by the marriage of Sir Patrick Fleming, with one of the daugh- 
 ters and coheirefTes of the brave Sir Simon Frafer, of Oliver cafllc. 
 This Sir Patrick was the fecond fon of Sir Robert Fleming, who died 
 A. D. 13 14; and, like him, was a faithful friend to King Robert Brus. 
 
 In the year 1451, Sir Robert de Fleming obtained a charter from 
 King James II. creeling the town of Biggar into a free burgh of barony, 
 and by the fame was created a Lord of Parliament by the title of Lord 
 Fleming of Cumbernaud. The next year Malcolm Fleming, nephew 
 to the above-named Lord, procured a grant under the great feal, of 
 the lands and barony of Bog Hall, Hadoliftane, &c, dated the 15th of 
 June. Douglas, who, in his peerage, mentions this circumftance, docs 
 not fay who were the former proprietors of thefe lands. 
 
 The manlion of Bog Hall continued in the family of the Flemings, 
 and was occafionally their refidence till the year 1747, when Charles, 
 Earl of Wigton, dying unmarried, his fifter, Lady Clementina, marry- 
 ing Charles, afterwards Lord Elphingfton, carried it, with the barony 
 of Biggar, &c. into that family, in which it at prefent remains. 
 
 This view was drawn A.D. 1789. 
 
 THE
 
 
 I 
 
 w 
 
 ^ 
 
 s 
 
 h3 
 ©
 
 LANERKSHIRE. 139 
 
 THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH AT HAMILTON. 
 
 1 his was a collegiate church, founded in the year 1451, by Sir 
 James Hamilton, of Cadzow, anceftor to the Dukes of Hamilton, for 
 a provoft and feveral prebendaries. It is alfo the burial place of that 
 family. The entrance into the maufoleuna was through the round 
 arch in the ruined part of the church. 
 
 This view was drawn about the year 1784.. 
 
 DUMFRIE-
 
 ( H* ) 
 
 D U M F R I E S H I R E. 
 
 HODDAM CASTLE, ANNANDALE. Plate I. 
 
 JLjLoddam Castle is delightfully fituated on the fouth bank of the 
 river Annan. Tradition fays it was built between the years 1437 
 and 1484, by John Lord Herries, of Herries, with the (tones of a 
 more ancient caflle of the fame name, which flood on the oppofite 
 fide of the river. This report refpecling the builder is partly con- 
 firmed by the arms of Herries, cut on the top of the ftaircafe ; but 
 there is no date on any part of the building. The new erection was, 
 as appears from fome ancient papers belonging to the family, called 
 the caflle of Hodham Stanes, probably from the above-mentioned 
 circumflance. 
 
 The old caflle is faid to have been inhabited about the beginning 
 of the fourteenth century by a branch of the family of Robert Brus, 
 and to have been demolifhed fome time after by a border law. 
 
 The family of" Herries was very powerful, and poffeffed a very ex- 
 ten live trail of country. A precept appears under the quarter feal 
 of Scotland by James, King of Scots, for infeofting Andrew Herries, 
 ion and apparent heir of Herbert, Lord Herries, of Terregles, in the 
 lands and baronies of Terregles and Kirkgunzeon, and half barony of 
 Urr, in the flewartry of Kirkudbright. Hoddam, Tundergarth, Lock- 
 erbie, Ilutton, Avendale, Moffatdale, and Kirkandrews, all in the 
 county of Dumfries; the lands of Fierroul in Roxburghfhire, and 
 Bamevel and Symontown in Ayrfhive. It is dated the 25th of Febru- 
 ary, and of his Majefly's reign the twelfth year. This was probably 
 James II., and about the year 1449, as nc began to reign in 1437. 
 
 These eflatcs defcended to Sir David I Jerries, fbn and heir of John 
 Herries, of Terregles, about the year 1484; from him to Herbert 
 Herries, hisfon; and from him to his fon Andrew, in whofe favour 
 a charter appears in the year 1 499. 
 
 vol. 1. 00 Andrew,
 
 H2 D U M F R I E S H I R E. 
 
 Andrew, Lord Hcrrics, fucceeded to the whole lordfhip and ba- 
 ronies in 15 1 o, and (lands infeoft and feifed therein the 8th of May 
 in that year. William, Lord Hemes, his fon, fuccecded him in 1514; 
 his feifin is upon record the 4th of October in that year. This Wil- 
 liam, Lord Hemes, having no male iffue, was fucceeded by three 
 daughters : Firft, Agnes Herries, the eldeft, who married John Maf- 
 
 ter, of Maxwell. Second, Katherine, married to Steuart, fon 
 
 and heir apparent of Alexander Steuart, of Garlics. Third, Janet, the 
 youngeft, who married James Cockburn, of Skirling. There is a 
 charter, under the great feal, dated the 1 ft of February, 1549, for in- 
 feofting Agnes and John Mafter, of Maxwell, her hufband, in the 
 lands. He was created Lord Herries, and was the ftrenuous fupporter 
 and friend of Mary Queen of Scots — me efcaped from Lochleven 
 Caftle the 2d of May, 1 ^68. The battle of Langfide was fought the 
 j 3th of that month; and this Lord Herries and the Archbifhop of 
 St. Andrew's conducted her in her flight to England. 
 
 Ox a grave-ftone in Terregles church there is a large grotefque fi- 
 gure cut in the rudeft manner imaginable, faid to reprefent one of 
 this family ; he is in the act of walking, the fore finger of his right 
 hand pointing to a book, probably the Bible, which refts on his breaft ; 
 with his left hand he fupports his fword, which hangs in a belt ; on 
 his right fide is an efcutcheon, charged with a faltire ; on his left, be- 
 neath three mullets of five points,* an urchin, or hedge hog. Over 
 the efcutcheon, on the right, is the date 568 ; the corner, fuppofed to 
 have the figure 1, is broken off. 
 
 William, Lord Herries, fucceeded his father, John, and was infeoft 
 in May, 1594. John, Lord Herries, his fon, was infeoft in 1604. He 
 was fucceeded by John, Lord Herries, his fon, about the year 1627. 
 
 Sir Richard Murray, of Cockpool, acquired the Barony of Hod- 
 dam, &c, from this laft Lord Herries, about this time. This family 
 of Murray were afterwards created Earls of Annandale, and the eftate 
 flood vefted in John, Earl of Annandale, in 1637. 
 
 * The part here laid to be mullets is much disfigured, and covered -with dirt, fo as to make it 
 doubtful whether they were not urchins, which are the arms ef Herries. 
 
 James,
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 143 
 
 Jamfs, Earl of Annandale, fucceeded his father, John, and obtained 
 a charter under the great feal in 1643. This James married Mrs. 
 Jane Carnegie, eldeft daughter of James, Lord Carnegie, fori of David, 
 Earl of Southelk. Her tocher, or portion, was 30,0001. Scots. The 
 contracl is dated the 14th of June, 1647. The Earl dying about the 
 year 165'', fhe afterwards married David, Vifcount Stormont, and died 
 in March, 1671. The Earl of Annandale conveyed the cftate of 
 Hoddam to David, Earl of Southefk, about the year 1653. 
 
 David was fucceeded by his fon James, who was inteoft in 1658 ; 
 and to him, in 1699, fucceeded his fon Robert, who was fuocceded by 
 his fon Charles, Earl of Southefk, who {lands infeoft in 1686. He 
 fold the barony and caftle of Hoddam to John Sharp, Efq. in 1690; 
 in whofe family it has continued ever llnce. 
 
 To the prefent proprietor the author is indebted for the greater part 
 of this account. 
 
 In the additions to Camden this caftle is faid to have been built by 
 John, Lord Herries, a ftrenuous fupporter of Mary Stuart : he con- 
 veyed her fafe from the battle of Langfide to his houfe at Terrigles, in 
 Galloway ; thence to Dundrennan abbey, and then accompanied her 
 in a fmall veffel into England. This at firft appears to clafh with the 
 account before given ; but as we learn from Crawfurd's Memoirs, that 
 this caftle, that of Annan and Carlaverock, the houfes of Cowhill and 
 Clofburn, Tynall and Bonfhaw, with others of lefTer note, were all of 
 them demolifhed by the Englifh in the year 1570, it is probable that 
 this John, Lord Herries, re-edified this caftle after the demolition here 
 mentioned. 
 
 This caftle was (according to the author of the additions to Cam- 
 den, before cited) foon after furrendered to the Regent, Murray ; and, 
 before the acceffion of James VI., was one of the places of defence on 
 the borders " to be keeped with ane wife ftout man, and to have with 
 him four well horfed men, and ther to have two ftark footmen Servants 
 to keep their horfes, and the principal to have ane ftout footman."* 
 
 * Border Laws, Appendix, J97. 
 
 In
 
 14 4 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 In the walls about it arc preferved divers Roman altars, and infcrip- 
 
 tions found at Burens in this neighbourhood. This view, which 
 
 fhews the front or chief entrance, was drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 II ODD AM CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 1 11 is plate mews the diftant view of the cattle, with the river and 
 circumadjacent country, as feen from an eminence above the road. 
 
 Respecting the Tower of Repentance, there are various accounts 
 of the caufes of its conftruclion. One of them is, that John, Lord 
 Herries, having been on an expedition to plunder fome part of the 
 Englifli border, was, on his return, in great danger of fhipwreck ; and 
 on which cccaLon he made a vow, that if he efcaped, he would, by. 
 way of expiation of his crimes, and as a mark of gratitude for his de- 
 livery, build a watch-tower, with a beacon, to be lighted by a watch, 
 kept there at his expence, whenever the Englifh were difcovered mak- 
 ing an inroad into the Scotch border. This he accordingly did, and 
 caufed the word Repentance to be cut over the door between the fi- 
 gures of a dove and a ferpent, whence it derives its name. The build- 
 ing is a fquare tower of hewn ftone, and is mentioned in the border 
 laws by the name of the watch-tow T er of Trailtrow, and a watch order- 
 ed to be kept there, and a fire made in the firepan, and the bell to be 
 rung whenever the Englifhes are feen coming near to, or over the river 
 Annan, and to be kept conftantly burning in weir time. 
 
 In the additions to Camden, it is faid, this tower was built by a Lord 
 Herries as an atonement for putting to death fome prifoners, to whom 
 he had promifed quarter: on it is carved the word Repentance, be- 
 tween a ferpent and a dove, emblems of prudence and meeknefs ; and 
 probably the word is the family motto. 
 
 L\ Mr. M'Farlan's MS. collc&ions, in the Advocate's library, Edin- 
 burgh, two other reafons for building this tower are mentioned. In 
 the account of the Stewartie of Annandale, 1723, " Repentance, now 
 ruinous, north well from Anan town, three miles and half, and weft 
 from Ecclefichan two miles., faid to be built by one of the Lords of 
 
 Hod ham,
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 145 
 
 Hodham, who took the (tones of the chapel of Trailtrow for building 
 his houfe ; for which, to fhew his repentance, he built that tower on 
 the top of a little, but conspicuous, hill, and in the church yard, with 
 the infeription of Repentance : but, according to others, it was built 
 by one of the family of Harris, or Nithdale, commonly called John 
 de Reive, for his having been a6tivc in demolifhing the churches; and, 
 after he had got all was to be had by the Reformation, returned to 
 his Romifh principles, and, neglecting Rertitution, he built Repen- 
 tance. Both the ftories may be eafily reconciled; for he was pofll-f- 
 for of Hodham, and built the tower thereof, and made no fmall ad- 
 vantage by the Reformation. Tradition has preferved a bon mot of a 
 fhepherd's boy to Sir Richard Steele, founded on the name of this 
 tower. Sir Richard having obferved a boy lying on the ground, and 
 very attentively reading the Bible, afked him if he could tell him the 
 way to heaven ? " Yes, Sir," replied the boy ; " you mnft go by that 
 tower; ' alluding to its appellation of Repentance. 
 This view was drawn a. d. 17S0. 
 
 S P ED LIN'S CASTLE. Plate I. 
 
 J. his border fortalice {lands in the parilli of Lochmaban, about three 
 miles to the northward of that town; it is placed on the weft bank of 
 the river Annan. All that is known of it is, that it has long been, as 
 it is at prefent, the property oi an ancient and refpeclable family, the 
 Jardines of Applegarth. The prefent proprietor has a handfome mo- 
 dern feat and plantation on the oppofite fide of the river. 
 
 Spedlin's Castle, like moft of thofe buildings, is a ftrong fquarc- 
 vaulted tower, with walls of a great thicknefs, flanked by round tur- 
 rets at the angles. The entrance is on the north fide, near the north- 
 eaft angle, through a circular door, having on each fide a tranfverfe 
 loop hole. Over the center, at the top of the tower, is a fquare tab- 
 let, containing a coat of arms, and the date 1605; probablv that of 
 its laft great repair. Indeed the building, at leaft the upper part of 
 it, does not feem older than the beginning of the fixteenth centurv. 
 
 VOL. I. P P Tt
 
 146 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 It is furrounded by a number of trees, and on two of its fides mofr. 
 venerably mantled with ivy. Up one pair of ftairs there is a good 
 room, with an ancient carved chimney-piece. 
 
 But this building is chiefly famous for being haunted by a Bogle, 
 or Ghoft. As the relation will enliven the dulnefs of antiquarian dif- 
 quifition, 1 will here relate it, as it was told me by an honeft woman 
 who refides on the fpot, and who, I will be fworn from her manner, 
 believed every fyllable of it. In the time of the late Sir John's grand- 
 father, a perfon, named Porteus, living in the parifh of Applegarth, 
 was taken up on fufpicion of fetting fire to a mill, and confined in the 
 Lord's prifon, the pit or dungeon, at this cattle. The Lord being 
 fuddenly called to Edinburgh on fome preffmg and unexpected bufinefs-, 
 in his hurry forgot to leave the key of the pit, which he always held 
 in his own cuftody. Before he difcovered his miftake, and could fend 
 back the key, which he did the moment he found it out, the man 
 was ftarved to death, having firft, through the extremity ot hunger, 
 gnawed off one of his hands. Ever after that time the caftle was ter- 
 ribly haunted, till a Chaplain of the family exorcifed and confined the 
 Bogle to the pit, whence it could never come out, fo long as a large 
 Bible, which he had ufed on that bufinefs, remained in the caftle. 
 It is faid that the chaplain did not long furvive this operation. 
 The Ghoft, however, kept quietly within the bounds of the prifon 
 till a long time after, when the Bible, which was ufed by the whole 
 family, required a new binding; for which purpofe it was fent to Edin- 
 burgh. The Ghoft taking advantage of its abfence, was extremely 
 boifterous in the pit, feeming as if it would break through the iron door, 
 and making a noife like that of a large bird fluttering its wings. The 
 Bible being returned, and the pit filled up, every thing has fince re- 
 mained perfectly quiet. But the good woman declared, that fhould 
 it again be taken off the premifes, no confederation whatfoever would 
 induce her to remain there a fingle night. 
 
 This Bible was printed in London by Robert Baker, a. d. 1634. 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 SPED-
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 147 
 
 S P ED LIN'S CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 1 his plate fhews the oppofite fide of the cattle, overgrown with 
 ivy, as is mentioned in the foregoing defcription ; a circumftance that 
 gives it a very gloomy and folemn appearance, favourable to the idea:; 
 of witches, hobgoblins, and apparitions* 
 
 TO RTHORO LD CASTLE. 
 
 I orthorold Caflle {lands on an artificial mount, in the parifii of 
 the fame name, about a mile to the eafl of the Loughs, half way be- 
 tween Dumfries and Loughmaben, clofe to the road fide, and a fmall 
 diftance from the rivulet. It was furrounded by a double ditch. 
 
 The building feems to have confifled folely of a tower, or keep, of 
 a quadrilateral figure; its area meafuring, on the outfide, 51 feet by 
 58; the longed: fides facing the eafl and weft. It contained two {lories. 
 The walls, like moft of thofe towers, were of an enormous thicknefs; 
 the cielings vaulted. In the north-eafl angle was a circular flaircafe. 
 
 It is fuppofed to have been lafl repaired about the year 1630; a {lone 
 taken from it, and fixed up againfl the out-offices of the manfe, or 
 minifter's houfe, having that date cut on it. This flonc was one of, 
 what is here called, the crow fteps; a term ufed for the flep-like {tones 
 commonly placed on the gable end of thefe cancellated man ions. 
 
 In the gable end of the cottage near this ruin is a {lone, on which is 
 carved a fhield, with thefe armorial bearings: Beneath a chief, charg- 
 ed with three pellets, a faltire; the crcfl fomewhat like a rofe. An 
 ancient man, now (a. d. 1789) living at Loughmaben, remembers the 
 roof of this building on it. It was taken off by the owner, who ap- 
 plied the materials to the building of another houfe. The lafl inha- 
 bitant of this caflle is faid to have been Archibald Douglas, the fiift 
 Laird of Dornock of that name. 
 
 The old caflle of Torthorold was anciently the property of a fami- 
 ly, now extinct, to wit, Torthorold, of Torthorold. David dc Tor- 
 thorold
 
 MB d u m f r I e s h I r e. 
 
 thorold Avorc fealty to King Edward I., at Berwick, Auguft 4, 1291. 
 An ancient tombftone of this family is budt up into the wall of the 
 church of Torthorold. On it is a crofs, adorned with flowers: on the 
 left, a fword; over the centre thereof, a fhield, with the arms as above 
 mentioned : on the right of the crofs an illegible infeription. This 
 family ended in an heirefs, named 1 label, who married into the family 
 of the Kirkpatricks, of Clofeburne. The produce of this match was 
 a fon, named Roger, who exchanged it with Sir William Carlyle, of 
 Crunington. In this family it continued till the beginning of the 
 feventeenth century, when it went by marriage to Sir James Douglas, 
 of Parkhead, who, in 1609, was created Lord Carlyle, of Tortho- 
 rold. His fon fold it to the firfr. Vifcount Drumlanrig, predeceffor 
 to his grace the Duke of Queenfbury, to whom it now belongs. — 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 CO TV II ILL TOWER, NITHSDALE. 
 
 JL his old tower flood upon an eminence, commanding a charming 
 profpecl: of the vale of Nith, from Friars Carfe to Dumfries. It had 
 long been the feat of the Maxwells, cadets of the noble family of 
 Nithfdale. In the year 1560, the old caftle being burned by the Eng- 
 lifh, this tower was built in 1579. In the original plan the ftaircafe, 
 which now ftands in the fmall tower on the angle, was defigned to 
 have formed the middle of the building; but only one half of that 
 plan was executed. 
 
 In the year 1783 Charles Maxwell Campbell, Efq. fold this place 
 to George Johnftone, of Conhath, Efq. merchant in Liverpool, to 
 whom it now belongs. A few weeks after this drawing was taken, he 
 b^ian to pull it down, in order to ereft an elegant manfion on its fite. 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 FRIARS CARSE, IN NITHSDALE. 
 
 JhltRE was a cell dependant upon the rich abbey of Melrofe, which, 
 at the Reformation, was granted by the Commendator to the Laird of 
 
 Elliefland,
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 149 
 
 Elliefland, a cadet of the Kirkpatricks of Clofeburnc. From whom it 
 pafl'ed to the Maxwells of Tinwald, and from them to the Barncleugh 
 family, alfo cadets of the Lords of Maxwell. From whom it went to 
 the Riddells, of Glenriddcll, the prefent pofleflbrs. The old refectory, 
 or dining room, had walls eight feet thick, and the chimney was 
 twelve feet wide. 
 
 This old building, having become ruinous, was pulled down in 
 1773, to make way for the prefent houfe. 
 
 Near the houfe is the Lough, which was the fifh-pond of the friary. 
 In the middle of which is a very curious artificial ifland, founded upon 
 large piles and planks of oak, where the monks lodged their valuable 
 effects when the Englifti made an inroad into Strathnith. 
 
 MORTON CASTLE, IN NITHSDJLE. 
 
 lVlonTON Castle, in the parifh of the fame name, fituated on the 
 eaft fide of the river Nith, about fixteen miles to the northward of 
 Dumfries. 
 
 Th:; following account of this caftle, given by Dr. Archbald, is 
 taken from Mr. M'Farlan's manufcript collections in the Advocate's 
 library at Edinburgh : 
 
 On the north fide of this parifh (that is, Morton) ftands the old 
 caftle of Morton, which of old hath been a very ftrong hold ; but it is 
 not certainly known by whom it was built at firft. It was kept by Sir 
 Thomas Randulph, Earl of Murray, in the minority of David Bruce, 
 and afterwards fuffered to go to ruin by the Earls of Morton, who had 
 other cafiles to take care of. Near to this caftle there was a park, 
 built by Sir Thomas Randulph, on the face of a very great and high 
 hill, fo artificially, that, by the advantage of the hill, all wild beads, 
 fuch as deer, harts, roes, and horfes, did eafily leap in, but could not 
 get out again ; and if any other cattle, fuch as cows, fheep, or goats, 
 did voluntarily leap in, or was forced to it, it was doubted if their 
 owners were permitted to get them out again. — N. B. The Earls of 
 Morton had their title from this place. 
 
 vol. 1. q q The
 
 5° 
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 The part now remaining is a large hall, fome windows, and two 
 round towers. Clofe to the caftle are three or four poor cottages. 
 
 This caftle was once the principal feat of Donnigall, Lord of Strath- 
 nid, who flourifhed in the reign of King David I., about the year 1 124. 
 He feems, at that time, to have been the moft powerful man in Niths- 
 dale, his great eftates reaching to the bounds of Annand, Lord of 
 Strathannard, or Annandale. Donnegal had a fon, named Ranul- 
 phus, called alfo, as above, Randulphus, who, about the end of the 
 reign of David I., made a donation of fome land at Dumfries to the 
 abbey of Kelfo, as appears from the chartulary of that abbey. Tho- 
 mas Ranulph, of Stradon, who married the fifter of Robert Bruce, 
 was great grandfon to the fore-mentioned Donnegal, of Strathnid, to 
 whom Bruce gave a grant of caftle Duffas, and the Earldom of Mur- 
 ray ; at which time he refigned the caftle and cftate of Morton to 
 Bruce, who, fome time after, granted them to the Douglas family, in 
 which they have ftill remained, they being, at this prefent time, (1789) 
 the property of his Grace the Duke of Queenfbury. 
 
 Near this place formerly flood an antique crofs, pretty entire; fince 
 removed to Captain Riddell's, at Friars Carfe. 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 SANQUHAR CASTLE. Plate I. 
 
 JL he caftle of Sanquhar is a piclurefque ruin, fituated on a high bank, 
 on the north-eaft fide of, and overlooking, the river Nith. Here formerly 
 the Queenfbury family kept their deer in a large park, now converted 
 into a farm. Upon the bottom, that lies beneath the weft fide of the 
 caftle, were formerly the gardens, where the remains of a fifh-pond, 
 with a fquare ifland in the middle, is ftill vifible. On the fouth fide of 
 the caftle was the bowling green, pretty near entire. The principal en- 
 trance was from the north eaft, where a bridge was thrown over the fofs. 
 Not far from the caftle, down the river, remains the moat, or ancient 
 court hill, of the former Barons of this caftle, where, by their bayliffs 
 and doomfters, they were wont to give decifions upon civil and criminal 
 cafes, agreeable to the feudal fyftem, the bayliffs determining on the for- 
 mer,
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 151 
 
 mer, the doomfter on the latter. The Creightons, Lords of Sanquhar, 
 were heritable Sheriffs of Nithfdale. 
 
 The firft Lords of Sanquhar that we meet with on record were, the 
 Rofs, or Roofe, family, cadets of the ancient and powerful Earls of 
 Rofs, Lords of the ifles of Scotland. Robert de Rofs was the laft of 
 this ancient line: his daughter and coheirefs, Ifabel de Rofs, rmrried 
 William U., fon of Thomas, Lord of Creighton, who rloutifhed in 
 the reign of Robert Brus. This Lord Creighton died about the year 
 1360, and left a fon and fucceffor by Ifabel de Rofs, who was Lord of 
 Sanquhar. Sir Robert Creighton, great grandfon of Ifabel de Rofs, 
 obtained a charter from King James III., appointing him the heritable 
 Sheriff of Dumfriefhirc, dated in 1464. Sir William Douglas, of 
 Drumlanrig, purchafed this eftate and caftle from the Creighton fa- 
 mily, and in 1 30 obtained a charter under the great feal of Scotland 
 for the fame ; in which family this caftle and barony ftill remains, 
 being the property of his Grace the Duke of Queenibury. 
 
 SANQUHAR CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 1 his caftle was the chief refidence of the family of Queenfbury be- 
 fore William, the firft Duke, built the noble manfion of Drumlanrig, 
 in which he only flept one night ; for being taken ill, and not able to 
 make any of his attendants hear him, or come to his affiftance, he re- 
 tired in difguft from it, to his caftle at Sanquhar, where he continued 
 to refide the remainder of his life. His fon not having the fame pre- 
 dilection for this caftle, it was neglected, and fuffered to be ftript of its 
 leaden roof, and its materials torn down for other buildings; fo that, in 
 a few years, not a trace of its former magnificence will remain. This 
 is the more probable, as its vicinity to the borough of Sanquhar makes 
 its ftone extremely convenient for erecting houfes in that place. 
 
 This borough, which is a royal one, ftands about half a mile north 
 of the caftle, and, with Dumfries, Loughmaban, Annan, and Kirkcud- 
 bright, fends a member to the Britifh Parliament. The chief depen- 
 
 dance
 
 153 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 dance of Sanquhar is on its coal trade. There is a manufactory for 
 mittens and blockings eftablifhed there, as likewife an iron forge. 
 These views were drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 THE BOW BUTTS, NEAR JAR B OROUG H CASTLE, 
 
 GLENCAIRN. 
 
 A hese earthen mounds are called Ingleftone Moats, or Bow Butts, 
 and by tradition are reported to have been the place where the ancient 
 Lords of the Barony of Glencairn exercifed their vaffals and followers 
 in the practice of archery. Thefe meetings were called wapon-fhows; 
 that is, fhews, or mufters of weapons: fimilar to what, in the times 
 of the ^axons, were in England (tiled wapentakes: whence the divi- 
 fions of the county of York are denominated. 
 
 The Scotch Parliament were extremely fenfible of the great confe- 
 quence of archery, and therefore paffed feveral acts at different pe- 
 riods; the fubfbance of which were, that all men between the ages of 
 fixteen and fixty fhould acquire that art, and repair to thefe Butts at 
 ftated times, there to praclife it, and other warlike exercifes, under the 
 infpection of the Sheriff, or his deputy, who was directed to attend on 
 thefe occa:ons. The Butts are here the mod perfect of any in this 
 county: the remains of others are ftill to be feen near Loughmaban. 
 
 Is the neighbourhood of thefe Butts formerly flood the fmall, but 
 {trong, caftle of Jarburgh, of which at prefent only the fragments of a 
 wall are remaining. Tradition reports a variety of wonderful flories of 
 its ancient Lord and his fons. He was named Jonkin Ferguefon. 
 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1780. 
 
 CLOSE BURNE CASTLE, IN NITHSDALE. 
 
 V^loseburne Castle is fituated about twelve miles north of Dum- 
 fries, and on the eafr. fide of a lough of eight acres ; it is, perhaps, 
 the oldeft inhabited tower in the iouth of Scotland : from the plan on 
 
 which
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 153 
 
 which it was built, and the ftile of the mouldings of the door, which 
 are the only ancient ornaments now remaining about the building, it 
 feems that the date of its conftruction cannot be later than the begin- 
 ning of the twelfth century. 
 
 The building is a lofty quadrilateral tower, all vaulted; the lower 
 apartment was a fouterrein, the walls of which are about twelve feet 
 thick ; the door is under a circular arch, with a zig-zag, or dancctte 
 moulding, rudely cut out of the hard granite; the only communica- 
 tion with the hall was by a trap door; the fecond door originally con- 
 fifted of a hall ; the approach to the door was by a ladder, that was 
 taken in at any time, the prefent outer flairs being a very modern 
 erection. The old iron door is ftill remaining. 
 
 This hall was probably the dining room, the guard chamber, and 
 dormitory, of the garrifon, when inverted by an enemy; a fmall turn- 
 pike flair, built in the wall, led to the principal apartment, for the Lord 
 or Governor of the caftle. The fire was made in the middle of the 
 floor, as there is only one flack of chimnies, and thofe in the center of 
 the building. Above the hall there are two feries of chambers, which 
 are divided by oaken floors; and above them an arched roof crowns 
 the building, which was covered with flate by the late Sir Thomas 
 Kirkpatrick, who repaired and inhabited this tower after his houfe was 
 burned down. A way, fenced with a parapet, goes round the top. 
 The meafures of this building are thirty- three feet fix inches from 
 north to fouth ; forty five feet fix inches from eaft to weft. Its height 
 to the battlements forty-fix feet nine inches. There is not any kind 
 of efcutcheon or armorial bearings whatfoever on it ; an additional 
 proof of its antiquity, as it is not probable the Lord of that caftle 
 would have omitted placing his arms on fome confpicuous part of it, 
 had it been the cuftom fo to do when that was erected. 
 
 By a charter, the original of which is in the pofTeflion of Sir James 
 Kirkpatrick, it appears that Ivon de Kirkpatrick, of Klofburne, ob- 
 tained a charter of confirmation of the lands of Klofburne, (which 
 formerly belonged to his anceflors) from Alexander II. in 1232. 
 
 Roger de Kirkpatrick, a fuccefTor of the aforefaid, whom Bu- 
 
 channan calls Roger a cella Patricii, was among the firft who flood up 
 
 vol. 11. r r for
 
 154 DUMFRIES -H I R E. 
 
 for Robert Brus, as he was returning from fmiting the Red Cummyng 
 at Dumfries. Th ; s Roger dc Kirkpatrick went into the church at 
 Dumfries, exprelTing thefe words: " I'll make ficker," (that is, furc) 
 and then gave John Cummyng feveral ftabs with a dagger; from 
 which fome of the family have fince ufed the dagger for their creft, 
 and the words, " I'll make ficker," for their motto. 
 
 Sir Thomas Kirkpatrick fucceeded his father Roger in the baro- 
 ny of Clofeburn, where, for his and his father's fervices to the Brus 
 family, he obtained the lands of Bradburgh, in the fherifdom of 
 Dumfries, as appears from the charter of Robert Brus, bearing date 
 at I .ockmaban, January 4th, in the fourteenth year of his reign. 
 
 Sir Thomas was fucceeded by his fon Windfridus de Kirkpatrick, 
 who got the lands of Torthorold by his marriage with Ifabel, the 
 daughter and heirefs of Sir David de Torthorold, the laft of that 
 ancient race. 
 
 His fon, Sir Thomas, made a refignation of the lands of Clofeburn 
 and Branburgh into the lands of Robert, Duke of Albany, Earl of 
 Fife, and Governor of Scotland, for a new charter of Tailzie, to 
 himfelf and heirs male, at Air, the 14th of O&ober, 1409. He, in 
 in the year 1428, was appointed one of the commiffioners of the weft 
 borders by King James I. 
 
 He was fucceeded by his brother, Roger Kirkpatrick, of Clofburne. 
 An impreffion of his feal is, it is faid, extant to a deed in 1435, viz. 
 a faltire and chief; the laft charged with three cufhions, creft, a hand 
 and dagger, fupported by two lions guardant. He was fucceeded by 
 his fon, Sir Thomas. 
 
 In 1 48 1 the Parliament met at Edinburgh on the ^d of April, when, 
 among other regulations, the Laird of Clofeburn was appointed to the 
 command of Lochmaban caftle ; from this Sir Thomas, the prefent 
 Sir James Kirkpatrick, Bart, is lineally defcended, a. d. 1784. He fold 
 this eftate to the Rev. Stewart Monteith, A. M. reclor of Barrowby, in 
 Eincolnfhire, the heir male and reprefentative of the ancient Earls of 
 Monteith of that furname. This gentleman has built himfelf a hand- 
 fome feat near the caftle, in the midft of a beautiful plantation. 
 
 Vol. 49, part 2, of the Philofophical TranfacTions for the year 1756, 
 
 page
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 155 
 
 page 521, is a letter from the late Sir Thomas Kirkpatrick, Bart., de- 
 ferring, a moll: extraordinary agitation of the lough at Clofeburn. 
 
 The following defcription of this place is tranfcribed from Mr. 
 M'Farlan's collection : — " Upon the weft fide of this parifh Clofeburn 
 church is fituated ; a little fabric, but well built ; near unto which is 
 the loch of Clofburn : upon the eaft fide whereof ftands the dwelling 
 houfe of the Lords of Clofburn, which hath been a confiderable 
 ftrength of old, by bringing the loch of Clofburn about it; whence 
 it is called Clofburn, becaufe inclofed with water or burn. This loch 
 is of great deepnefs, and was meafured on the ice eight acres, in the 
 midft of a fpacious bog. The fifh of this loch are, for the moft part, 
 eels, with fome great pikes, who, for lack of food, eat up all the 
 young. At the fide of this loch there is of late difcovered a fountain 
 of medicinal water, which, as Moffet well, yields filver, and produces 
 the other effects thereof. It is efteemed, in dry weather, ftronger than 
 MofFet well, by reafon of the great abundance of fulphur putridam, 
 fal ammoniacum, and antimony, there; fo that one cannot dig in a 
 great part of the bog but the water has fuch a tafte on the tongue as 
 the well. A farther account of it is left to the phylicians, when they 
 fliall have the conveniency to make a trial of it. There is alfo, within 
 a mile of Clofburn houfe, another loch, called Loch Atrick, but little 
 remarkable about it. About the place of Clofburn, and in other places 
 of the barony, is fome ftore of oak wood. There are alfo two great 
 kairns ; the one in the Moorfield, the other in the Infield, near unto 
 them, whence the bounds are called Akencairn, which furely are two 
 ancient monuments, although an account of them cannot be given." 
 
 In digging at Clofeburn, in 1789, an ancient metal veffel, holding 
 near a pint, was found ; in fhape, it much refembled a modern cream pot. 
 This view was drawn a. d. 1789. 
 
 LAG CASTLE, NITH SDA LE. Plate I. 
 
 1 his ruin belongs to the ancient family of the Grierfons, who took 
 their territorial defignation from it. The family of Grierfon is de- 
 fcended from Gilbert, the fecond fon of Malcolm Laird of M'Gre- 
 
 g° r >
 
 156 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 gor, who died in 1374. His fon obtained a charter from the Douglas 
 family of the lands and barony of Lag in Nithfdale, and little Dalton 
 in Annandale; fince which his defcendants have continued in Nithf- 
 dale, and married into the bell: families of that part of the country, 
 namely, thofe of the Lord Maxwell, the Kirkpatricks of Clofeburn, 
 the Charterifes of Amisfield, the Ferguefons of Craig-darrock, and of 
 the Duke of Q.ueenfbury. 
 
 This caftle Hands in a deep narrow ravine, called the Glen of Lag, 
 whence it derives its name : it is fo covered by lofty hills as not to be 
 feen at any confiderable diftance. The building confrfts of a fmall 
 fquare vaulted tower, now unroofed, mounted on an eminence of made 
 ground. It was furrounded by an outer wall ; the great gate, which 
 has a circular arch, fronts the north. On the eaft fide of the caftle is 
 an artificial mount, called a moat, or court hill, encompaffed by a ditch. 
 In the area, or court of the caftle, are the ruins of five or fix of the 
 moft miferable cottages that imagination can paint. This caftle was 
 anciently furrounded by a lake, now a marfh ; fo that it mull, even in 
 its beft days, have been a damp and dreary manfion: the ftones of the 
 gate are laid in the rudeft manner. The laft inhabitant was the late 
 Sir Robert Grierfon. An old ftone, formerly placed over the gate, is 
 now at Friars Carfe ; upon it are cut the letters I. G. and the arms of 
 the family — three cufhions, 3 and x, in the center a mullet. 
 
 At Barnfide Hill, near this place, about a century ago, Sir Robert 
 Grierfon, Bart, exercifed his prerogative as a baron of the regality 
 and barony of Lag, by trying, condemning, and hanging, a fheep- 
 ftealer. This is faid to have been the laft inftance in Nithfdale of a 
 criminal fuffering death by the fentence of a Baron Bailie. — This view 
 fhews the north afpecl: and the great gate. 
 
 LAG CASTLE. Plate II. 
 
 1 his plate fhews a general view of the caftle, the moat hill, and 
 outer walls, as feen from the north-eaft. 
 Both views were drawn A. D. 1789. 
 
 AMIS-
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. i$; 
 
 AM IS FI E LD, OR HEMPSFIELD TOTI'ER. 
 
 X his has, from a very early period, been the baronial caftle and rc- 
 fidence of the ancient family of Charteris, or Charters; one of whom, 
 Robert de Charteris, is mentioned in hiftory as early as the reign of 
 William, called the Lion, anno 1 1 6$. Sir Robert de Charteris, great 
 grandfon of the above-mentioned Robert, appears on the lift of bene- 
 factors to the monaftery of Kclfo in 1266. 
 
 Andrew Charteris, of Amisfield, was deprived of his eftate by 
 King Edward I. in 1296": it feems to have been reftored to his family 
 the fame year, immediately after the resignation of Baliol ; for in Ry- 
 mer, vol. 2, p. 726, there are a number of writs directed to fherirFs of 
 the different counties in Scotland, ordering that the lands of divers 
 chiefs, which had been feized by the King, fliould be reftored to their 
 widows, on their having taken the oaths of fidelity. Among them is 
 one directed to the fheriffs of Lanark and Dumfries, in behalf of 
 Dernorgulla, who was the wife of Robert de Charteres, in thefe rcfti- 
 tutions ; the caftles afligned to the keepers of the kingdom were ex- 
 cepted. Among the names of the perfons who did homage to King 
 Edward I. on the 1 ^th of May, a. d. 1306, the 34th of his reign, was 
 William de Chartres, pro terns in Com de Roxburgh and de Bauf. 
 This Sir William, who was fon of Sir Robert above named, in the fame 
 year, attended Robert Bruce to Dumfries when he flew the Red Cum- 
 min. His fon, Sir Thomas, was, a. d. 1342, appointed by King Da- 
 vid II. Lord High Treafurer of Scotland. Sir John Charteris, his fori, 
 was warden of the weft marches for fome time during the reism of 
 James VI. Tradition puts one of this family in that office in the 
 preceding reign, as will be fliewn in an annccdote in this account. 
 
 A singular legal duel in that reign, a. d. 1530, is recorded by 
 Lindfey of Pitfcotti, of one of this family, with the Laird of Drum- 
 lancrick. Gutherie places this ftory in the year 1538. — " After this 
 there was a fingular combat betwixt the Laird of Drumlancrick and 
 the Laird of Hempsficld, who provoked others in barrace to fj^ht to 
 death, for certain points of treafon which were rchearfed betwixt them. 
 vol. I. s s But
 
 I 5 8 D U M F It I E S II I R E. 
 
 But when the day was fet, and they compeared at Edinburgh in bar- 
 race*, but unarmed at all parts, Drumlanerick being fomething fand- 
 blind, and faw not well, drake fo furioufly and lb hot at his marrow-}', 
 while he knew not whether he hit him or not ; in the mean time the 
 Laird of Hempsfield's fword brake betwixt his hands ; and then the 
 King gart cry to the heralds and men ot" arms to red them^, and fo 
 they ftanched and fought no more." 
 
 The following traditionary {lory of one of this family is faid to have 
 happened in the fame reign : 
 
 " King James V. being on a progrefs into the fouthcrn parts of his 
 dominions, to quell infurreclions and redrefs grievances on the marches, 
 previous to his fetting off from his caftle of Sterling, an ancient wi- 
 dow, who lived on the water of Annandale, complained to him, that, 
 in a late incurfion of the Englifh into that country, they had carried 
 off her only fon and two cows, which were her fole fupport and com- 
 fort on earth ; that fhe immediately made complaint to Sir John Char- 
 ters of Amisfield, warden of the weft marches, informing him, that 
 the party were then ravaging at a few miles diftance, and praying him 
 to fend and retake her fon and cows. She faid, that Sir John not only 
 refufed the prayer of her petition, but alfo treated her with the greateft 
 rudenefs and comtempt. The King told her he fhould fhortly be in An- 
 nandale, and directed her then to prefer her complaint to him: upon 
 this the woman returned home. In a fhort time King James fet out on 
 his progrefs, and when he arrived at the head of Nithfdale, remem- 
 bered the poor woman's complaint ; he therefore left the greateft num- 
 ber of his guards and attendants behind him, and advanced with great 
 fecrecy to the village of Duncow, where difguifing himfelf, and leav- 
 ing all his attendants, except two or three favourite followers, pro- 
 ceeded towards the Caftle of Amisfield, the feat of the warden: when 
 he came to the fmall brook near the houfe, he left all his fuite, and 
 coming alone to Amisfield gate, requefted the porter to tell Sir John 
 Charters he came exprefs to inform him of an inroad then making 
 by the Englifti. The porter was loath to difturb his mafter, fay- 
 
 * Are the barriers or lifts. f Opponent, } To feparate them.
 
 D U M F R I E S H I 11 E. 139 
 
 ing, he was gone to dinner; but the King bribing him with a filvet 
 groat, he went and returned with an anfwer, that Sir John v as goin 
 to dinner, and would not be difturbed. The King bribed him again 
 with two groats, defiring him at the fame time to tell his matter, that 
 the general fafety depended upon his immediately firing the beacons, 
 and alarming the country. Sir John, upon this fecond meffage, grew 
 into a great rage, threatening to punifh the importunate meffenger for 
 his temerity. Upon this the King with gold bribed another lervant 
 to go to Sir John, and tell him that the good man of Ballangcigh had 
 waited a confiderable time at his gate for admittance, but in vain; at 
 the fame time the King throwing off the mean garment that covered 
 his rich attire, founded his beugle horn for his attendants to come up. 
 Sir John, as foon as he had received the third meffage, came in a great 
 fright to the King, who harfhly reprimanded him for this great abufe 
 of the trait committed to his charge, and at the fame time command- 
 ed him to pay to the widow her lofs tenfold ; adding, that if her fon 
 was not ranfomed within ten days, he, Sir John, fhould be hanged : 
 and as a farther token of his difpleafure, he billetted upon him his 
 whole retinue, in number two thoufand knights and barons, obliging 
 him to find them in provender during their ftay in Annandale. This 
 heavy expence brought the Amisfield family under a load of incum- 
 brance, that they never after could entirely throw off. It was alfo in 
 this progrefs that King James hanged the famous Johnny Armftrong 
 of Gilnock Hall." 
 
 The caftle, or tower, of Amiesfield confifts of a quadrangle, hav- 
 ing a high tower of a very piclurefque form on the fouth weft, and a 
 more modern building, now the dwelling houfe, on the eaft: the for- 
 mer is faid to have been, in a great part, rebuilt by Sir John Charters 
 about the year 1600; that date is carved on a coat of arms. 
 
 The manfion was built in the reign of Charles I., a. d. 1631, as 
 appears by a date infcribed over the chief entrance. 
 
 In the tower, which had a handfome flight of winding ftonc ftairs, 
 is fliewn a chamber and bedftead, in which King James VI. is faid to 
 have flept when on his way to England. 
 
 The ceilings of feveral of the rooms of this tower are ftuccoed and 
 painted; the ornaments are of the grotefque kind; on one of the doors 
 
 is
 
 160 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 is the figure of a man, tearing open the jaws of a lion, mod barba- 
 roufly carved in baffo relievo, and mod tawdrily painted : the carver 
 was undoubtedly the fame that cut the figure of Sir Herbert Herries 
 in Trelegles church. This building is now quite in ruins, and ufed 
 only as a hay loft. 
 
 King Charles creeled the village of Amisfield into a burgh of ba- 
 rony, with weekly markets and yearly fairs. 
 
 This view was drawn a d. 1789. 
 
 DUMFRIES BRIDGE. 
 
 .Dumfries bridge is offtone, and confifts of nine arches; its mea- 
 fures are, four hundred feet in length ; breadth within the parapets, thir- 
 teen feet fix inches; mean width, the parapets included, fixteen feet 
 two inches ; height, from the top of ihe parapet to the water, twenty- 
 fix feet. Here was a fmall gate, called the port, which was confidered 
 as the boundary between Nithfdale and Galloway, there being fix 
 arches of the bridge within the latter, and three within the former dif- 
 triiSt. About twenty years ago, that is, about the year 1769, this gate 
 was taken down, in order to leffen the weight on the bridge, which 
 was then found in a tottering ftate. 
 
 This bridge, which croffes the river Nith, was built by the Lady 
 Devorgilla, third daughter of Alan, Earl of Galloway, who impofed 
 certain tolls and cuftoms to be levied on all cattle, fifh, corn, and 
 merchandife, paffing here. She died a. d. 1269, and left a daugh- 
 ter of her own name, whofe daughter was mother of John Cummin 
 affaffinated at Dumfries. 
 
 This John Cummin left a daughter, who was married to Archibald, 
 the fifth Lord of Douglas, who, by this marriage, when the Baliols and 
 Cummin families became extinct, was lineal heir to Alan, Lord of 
 Galloway, and was the firft Lord of Galloway of the Douglas family; 
 to him then the bridge, tolls, and cuftoms, of Dumfries, of courfe 
 devolved, and are fuppofed to have continued in his family till the 
 year 1425, when they were granted by a daughter of Archibald, the 
 fifth Earl of Douglas, named Margaret, and ftiled the fair maid of 
 
 Gallowav,
 
 D U M F R I E S H I R E. lor 
 
 Galloway, to the friars minor of Dumfries, who kept poffeffion oi 
 them till July 10, 1557, when they granted them to John Johnfton, 
 of Nunholme, from whom they devolved to Marrion Johnfton, his 
 fifter and heir, as appears by her infeofment, December 14, 1616. She, 
 with her huihand, Donald Kirkpatrick, (probably brother to the Laird 
 of Ellifland) difpofed of them to the magiftrates of the town of Dum- 
 fries, anno 1632, by whom they are ftill held. The produce of thefc 
 tolls, &c. amount to about three hundred pounds fterling per annum. 
 
 The Earl of Nithfdale had a right to a weekly market at the bridge 
 end, which, for a valuable confideration, he transferred to the magif- 
 trates above mentioned by his charter, dated 27th of November, 1677. 
 
 A. D. 1789, this bridge being much out of repair, and, on a furvey, 
 reported, in fome meafure, dangerous, the gentlemen of this and the 
 adjoining counties had divers meetings for the purpofe of erecting a 
 new one ;. which was at length agreed on, and a fpot pointed out, 
 
 and the affiftance of government requefted. This view was drawn 
 
 A.. D. 1747. 
 
 CAERLEVEROCK C ASTLE, NITHSDALE. 
 
 Vaerleverock Castle ftood in the parifh of the fame name, 
 about nine miles fouth from Dumfries, on the north fhorc of Solway 
 Frith, between the confluence of the rivers Nith and Locher. 
 
 This caftle is faid to have been originally founded in the fixth cen- 
 tury by Lewarch Og, fon ofLewarch Hen, a famous Britifh poet, and 
 after him to have been called Caer Lewarch Ogg, which, in the Gae- 
 lic, fignified the city or fortrefs of Lewarch Ogg ; fince corrupted to 
 Caerleverock : but whether the word Caer was ever ufed to iignify a 
 fortrefs, is by fome held queftionable ; and it does not appear here 
 was ever any thing like a city. 
 
 Caeleverock Castle was the chief feat of the family of Max- 
 well, in the days of King Malcolm Canmore, appears from an an- 
 cient pedigree of that family, in the polfeffion of Captain Riddell, of 
 Glen Riddell, F. S. A. wherein Eugin Maxwell, of Caerleverock, is 
 
 vol. 1. t t faid
 
 i6 3 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 fiaid to have been at the fiege of Alnwick with that King in the 26th 
 year of his reign, a. d. 1097 ; it continued ever fince in that family, 
 till it palled by r.n heirefs, Lady Winifred Maxwell, in marriage to 
 Hagerfton Conftable, efq., to whom it now belongs. 
 
 The view here delineated fhevvs the remains of a fecond caftle of 
 Caerleverock, built after the demolition of the original caftle of that 
 name above mentioned, whofe fite and foundations are ftill very con- 
 fpicuous, and eafy to be traced out in a wood about three hundred 
 yards to the fouth-eaft of the prefent building. From thefe founda- 
 tions it appears to have been fomewhat lefs than the prefent caftle, 
 but of a limilar figure, and that it was furrounded by a double ditch. 
 Its form and fituation are particularly defcribed in an ancient heraldic 
 French poem, reciting the names and armorial bearings of the Knights 
 and Barons who accompanied King Edward I. in his inroad into Scot- 
 land, by the weftern marches, in the year 1300, when this caftle was 
 attacked and taken. The original is preferved in the Britifh Mufeum,. 
 and may be thus tranflated. 
 
 Karlaverok. was a caftle fo ftrong, that it did not fear a fiege, 
 therefore, on the King's arrival, it refufed to furrender ; it being 
 •well furnifhed againft fudden attempts, with foldiers, engines, and 
 provifion. Its figure was like that of a fhield *, for it had only 
 three fides, with a tower on each angle, one of them a jumellated or 
 double one, fo high, fo long, and fo fpacious, that under it was the 
 gate, with a turning or drawbridge, well made and ftrong, with a 
 fufficiency of other defences. There were alfo good walls and ditches 
 filled to the brim with water. And; it is my opinion, no one will ever 
 fee a caftle more beautifully fituated ; for at one view one might be- 
 hold towards the weft the Iriih fea, towards the north a beautiful 
 country, encompaffed by an arm of the fea, fo that no creature born 
 could approach it, on two fides, without putting himfelf in danger 
 from the fea ; nor was it an eafy matter towards the fouth, it being, 
 as by the fea on the other fide, there encircled by the river, woods, 
 
 * The ancient fliields were triangular-; hence frequently called heater (Lields, from their re- 
 femblance to heaters ufed by the women for ironing linen, 
 
 bogs,
 
 D U M F R I E S II I R E. 163 
 
 bogs, and trenches ; wherefore the army was obliged to attack it on 
 the eaft, where there was a mount. 
 
 The caftle, after having been battered by all the warlike machine? 
 then in ufe, at length furrendered, when the remainder of the garri- 
 fbn, being only fixty in number, were, on account of their gallant de- 
 fence, taken into the King's favour, and were not only pardoned and 
 releafed, ranforn free, but to each of them was given a new garment. 
 
 Some time after its furrender it was retaken by the Scotch, and was 
 in the pofleffion o( Sir Euftace Maxwell, a fteady friend to King Ro- 
 bert Brus. He held it againft the Englifh for many weeks, and at laft 
 obliged them to raife the liege ; but left it mould afterwards fall into 
 the hands of the enemies, he himlclf demolifhed all the fortifications 
 of it : for which generous action King Robert Brus nobly rewarded 
 him with the grants of feveral lands, pro fra&iotie & proftratloue Cajiri 
 de Carlaverocky &c. He alio remitted him the fum o" ten pounds ftcr- 
 ling, which was payable to the Crown yearly out of the lands of Caer- 
 leverock. This he remitted to the faid Euftace and his heirs for ever. 
 
 This caftle, however, feems to have been again fortified; for, in the 
 year 1355. it was taken by Roger Kirkpatrick, and, as Major fays, le- 
 velled with the ground. Probably it was never more repaired, but its 
 materials employed to erecl a new building. The frequent fiegcs and 
 difmantlings it had undergone might, in all likelihood, have injured 
 its foundations. 
 
 The precife time when the new caftle was built is not afcertained, 
 but it muft have been before the year 1425. In the reign of James I., 
 from the appellation of Murdoc's Tower, given to the great round 
 tower on the fouth-weft angle, which it obtained from the circumftance 
 of Murdoc, Duke of Albany, being confined in it that year: and this 
 is farther corroborated by the pedigree before mentioned, wherein Ro- 
 bert Maxwell, who was flain at the battle of Bannockbourn, a. p. 
 1448, is called the compleator of the battlcing of Caerleverock. 
 
 This caftle again experienced the miferics of war, being, according 
 to Camden in his Annals, in the month o{ Auguft, a. o. 1570, ruined 
 by the Earl of Suflex, who was fent with an Englifh army to fupport 
 King James VI., after the murder of the Regent. The fame author, 
 in his Britannia, written about a.d. 1607, calls it a vi cak houfe of the 
 
 Barons
 
 .64 D D M F III E S H I R E. 
 
 Barons of Maxwell, whence it is probable that only the fortifications 
 
 of this caftle were demolifhed by Suffex ; or, that it* the whole was 
 
 deftroyed, only the manfion was rebuilt. 
 
 The fortifications of this place were, it is faid, once more reinftated 
 
 by Pvobcrt, the firft Earl of Nithfdale, in the year 1638; and, during 
 
 the troubles under Charles I., its owner nobly fupported the caufe of 
 
 royalty, in which he expended his whole fortune ; nor did he lay down 
 
 his arms till he, in j 640, received the King's letters, directing and 
 
 authoring him to deliver up the caftles of Thrieve and Caerleverock 
 
 on the belt conditions he could obtain : in both which caftles the 
 
 Earl maintained confiderable garrifons at his own expence ; namely, 
 
 in Caerleverock, an hundred, and in Thrieve, eighty men, befides 
 
 officers. The ordnance, arms, ammunition, and victuals, were alfo 
 
 orovided at his coft. 
 i 
 
 The following particulars, refpecYing the articles of capitulation, 
 and furniture left in this caftle, are copied from a curious manufcript, 
 in the poffeffion of Captain lliddell before mentioned. 
 
 Copy of the Capitulation between the Earl of Nithfdale and Colonel Home. 
 At Dumfries, the \fl day of Oflober, 1 640. 
 
 The qlk day pns. of the Committee of Nithfdale, refiding at Dum- 
 fries, compeared Lieutenant-colonel Home, and gave in and produced 
 the articles of capitulation paft betwixt Robert Earl of Nithfdale and 
 the faid Lieutenant Colonel, at the caftle of Carlaverock, the 26th 
 day of September laft by paft, and defired the faid articles to be infert 
 r.nd rcgiftrate in the bukes of the faid Committee, and that the ex- 
 tract yr. of might be patent to any party havand intereft, and the prin- 
 cipal articles redelivered to him qlk the faid Committee thought rea- 
 sonable, of the qlk articles the tenor follows, viz. Articles condefcended 
 upon betwixt the Earl of Nithfdale and Lieutenant-colonel Home 
 the 26th day of September, 1640, at the caftle of Carlaverock. For 
 the firft article it is condefcended on, that for my Lord, his friends, 
 and followers, that there fhall no other courfe be taken with him and 
 them in their religions, than with others of his or their profeffions. 
 Whereas it is defired be my Lord, that he, his friends, and followers, 
 be no farther trouble in their perfons, houfes, and eftates, houfe guides 
 
 therein,
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 165 
 
 therein, then according to the common courfc of the kingdom ; it is 
 agreed unto, that no other courfe fhall be taken with him and his 
 forefaids, then with others of his and their profeffions. Whereas it 
 is delired, he and they may fort" out with bag and baggage; it is 
 agreed, that he, his friends, and followers, and foldiers, with each of 
 them their arms and fhott, with all their bag and baggage, trunks, 
 houfehold ftuff, belonging on their honour and credit to his Lordfliip, 
 and them wt. fafe conduct to the Langholm, or any other place with- 
 in Nithfdale, is granted. Whereas it is defired be my Lord, that 
 guides intromitt with, belonging to his Lordihip's friends and fol- 
 lowers, restitutio thereof be made ; it is agreed to what courfe mall 
 be taken with others of his and yr. condition fhall be taken with him 
 and them. It is condefcended upon be my Lord takend the burden 
 on him for himfelf, his friends and followers, that he nor they fall 
 not, in any time coming, tack arms in prejudice of this kingdom, nor 
 fhall have any intelligence with any prejudice thereof, upon their ho- 
 nour and credit. It is condefcended on be my Lord, and his friends 
 and followers, that they fall contribute and do every thing lying in- 
 cumbent on them, according to the general courfe of the kingdom. 
 Laftly, it is condefcended on be my Lord, his friends, and followers, 
 that he and they fall deliver up the houfe and fortalice of Carlaverock 
 to Lieutenant-colonel Home, wt. the cannon, fuperplus of ammuni- 
 tion and other provifions; and that he fhall remove himfelf, officers, 
 and whole garrifon and followers, out of the faid cattle and fortalice ; 
 and this his Lordfhip obliefc himfelf and his to perform upon his 
 honour and credit, betwixt this and the 39th day of September, in- 
 ftant, 1640. 
 
 Sic Subscribitur, Nithsdale, 
 
 JO N . HOME. 
 
 This is the juft copy of the faid articles of capitulation, extract 
 forth of the books of the faid Committee, by me, Mr. Cuthbcrt Cun- 
 ningham, notter clerk yr. of underfcribing. 
 
 (Signed) Cuthbert Cunninghams, Clerk. 
 
 vol. 1. u u No. 16.
 
 166 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 !No. 1 6. 
 
 A note of fiich tilings as were left in the houfe of Carlaverock, at my 
 Lord's departure, in the year of God, 1640. 
 
 Imprimis, in the wine fellar, 4 barrels of Seake. Item, in the other 
 fellar, 3 hogfheads of French wine, and an iron grate. Item, more, 30 
 bolls of meal. Item, in the end of the kitchen, 2 barrels of herring. 
 Item, in the high wardrop, 1 locked trunk, and three timber beeds, and 
 1 iron window — Mare, 1 {toiler, 1 old katell, and 2 picks, and a mould. 
 Item, up high, four cuboards and a crucifix — Mare in a warehoufe, 
 an crok-pin. Item, in chamber, a cubard. In my lord Maxwell's 
 chamber, two beds and a cubord, and a locked cheft, and another 
 cheft. The outer room, two trunks and a bed, and a great tow. Mare 
 in the mufket chamber, a bed and a belows ; in the turnpike, a cup- 
 bord. Mare in the new wardrope, 3 beds. Item, in the matter's cham- 
 ber, a bed and a cupbord. Mare in the damafk bed chamber, a bed, 
 and a cupbord, and a targe, and a fire chuvell. Item, in the kitchen, a 
 chimney and grate, and a pair of long raxes. In the new hall, a leid, 
 and a mafken fatt, and aftudy, and a pair of bellies. Item, in the long 
 hall, 6 cafes of windows, with 22 pikes, ^13 lanfie, and 2 fakes of white 
 ftules. Item, mare in Sander's chamber, 4 beds. Mare in my Lord's 
 hall, a burds, and 6 turkies, fowls. Item, mare in the round chamber, 
 without my Lord's chamber, 5 feder beds, 9 holders, 4 cods, 5 pair of 
 blankets, and 4 rugs, 6 pieces of buckram, with my Lord's arms, and 
 
 2 , and another bed with black fring and a painted brods, a cu- 
 
 burd, 9 ftools covered with cloth of filver, 2 great chairs of filver cloth ; 
 marc, a green caniby bed ; mare, a fumber cloth ; mare, 3 great and lit- 
 tle -, and 4 ftoles, and a long couflin, all of black and white (luff; 
 
 mare, 4 flooles, and 2 chairs, coveret with brune cloth paffementet gea- 
 low ; mare, a great lock, and a wauroke net ; mare, there is one great 
 chair, 4 ftules coveret reid with black pafTment ; mare, 22 curtain rods, 
 a trunk locked full, and two of virginals ; mare, in the drawing room, a 
 brace of iron and canaby bed, with a fender, bed, and a bolder, and 3 
 tronks locket, a Turkey ftule, and a rich work ftule, and ane old chair, 
 with a cod nailed on ; mare, a frame of a chair. Item, in fire houfe, 
 is 7 covers of Turkey work for ftules, and a coffer, 2 chefts, 15 
 
 chamber
 
 D U M F R I E S H I R E. 167 
 
 chamber pots, 5 pots for eafement, a mortar and a piitol, a brazen 
 pot, a brazen laddie, a bed pan, 4 wine fellers, a little chopin pot, 
 and my lord and my ladies pictures ; mare, a cheft, with fome glaffes, 
 and 5 fedder beds, 5 bolfters, 3 char pots, 2 red window curtings ; 
 mare, there is in the dining room before my ladys chamber a burd 
 
 and a falling bed, 2 Turkey {tools, a blue on the cafe of 
 
 the knock ; mare, in my Lords chamber there is a bed furnifhed of 
 damafk, and lead our with gold lace ; mare, there is 2 chairs, and 
 3 {tools of damafk, and a cuburd, and a carpet, and a chair coveret 
 with brune cloth, and a chamber all hanged, a water pot, a tongs 
 and bellies, 1 knoke, 28 mufkets, 28 handlers, and 2 2-handed fwords, 
 and 9 collers for deggers; mare in Conheathis chamber, a bed, and 
 cuburd, and fundries ; mare in the ould houfe, 38 fpades of iron. 
 
 This is the true inventory of the goods left in Carlaverock, taken 
 there be Arthur M'Machan and William Sleath ; there was one locked 
 trunk in the high wardrop, which was full of mens cloathes ; and in 
 that great trunk mentioned to be in the round chamber, there was a 
 great wrought bed, a fuit of cloaths of filver, chairs and {tools to be 
 made up, and an embroidered cannabie of grey fattin to be made up 
 too : as for the other trunks, which were left in the open rooms, it 
 cannot be remembered in particular what was left into them : and 
 that this is all true, we under- witnefs can written. 
 
 William Wood, Witnefs. 
 (Signed) William Maxwell, Witnefs. 
 
 Thomas Maxwell, Witnefs. 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 A note of the houfehoJd Jluff introm'ttten with by Lieutenant-colonel Home 
 
 at Carlaverock. 
 
 Imprimis — He has intromitten, with five fuit of hangings, there 
 being eight pieces in every fuit, the price of every fuit overheid eiti- 
 mate three fcore pounds {terling. 
 
 Item — Has intromitten with five beddies, twa of filk and three of 
 cloth, every bed confifting of five coverings, courfe rugs, three over 
 
 ballens,
 
 i68 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 ballens, and ane long - - ; with maffe filk fringes of half quar- 
 ter deep, and ane counter point of the fame ftuff, all laid with braid 
 filk lace, and a fmall fringe about, with chairs and ftools anfwer- 
 able, laid w ith lace and fringe, with feather bed and bolfter, blankets 
 and rug, pillars, and bedfteid of timber anfwerable; every bed efti- 
 mate to be worth an hundred and ten pounds fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with ten leffer bedies qr. of four are 
 cloth cortens, and fix with fluff or ferge, every bed furnifhed with 
 bottoms, valcns, and teftes, fedder bed, bolfter, rugge, blankets, and 
 pillors, and bedfteid of timber anfwerable; every bed eftimate to fif- 
 teen pounds fterling overheid. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with feventy other beds for fervants, 
 confifting of fether bed, bolfter, rug, blankets, and eftimate to feven 
 pound fterling a piece. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with forty carpets, eftimate overheid to 
 forty fhillings fterling a piece. 
 
 Item — He has intromited with the furniture of ane drawing room 
 
 of cloth of filver, confifting of an entire bed - - cobbert and fix 
 
 ftools, all with filk and filver fringe, eftimate to one hundred pound 
 fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromited with twa dozen of chairs and ftools co- 
 vered with red velvet, with fringes of crimfon filk and gilt nails, efti- 
 mate to three fcore pounds fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with five dozen of Turkey work chairs 
 and ftools, every chair eftimate to fifteen fhillings fterling, and every 
 ftool to nine fhillings fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with an library of books, qlk ftood my 
 Lord to two hundred pounds fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with twa ope trunks full of Hollond 
 
 fhirts, and pillabers, and dorock damafk table cloths, and 
 
 gallons, and towells, to the number of forty pair of fhittes, or thereby, 
 and feventy ftand of neprey, every pair of fheets confifting of feven 
 ells of cloth, at fix (hillings fterling the ell, amounts to 5I. 2s. fter. 
 the pair. Indc 7:14 fterling. 
 
 Item — The ftand of neprey, confifting of ane table cloth, of twa 
 dozen of nepkins, twa lang towells, eftimate to XX pound fter. 
 
 Item
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. r6 9 
 
 # 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with an knock that flands upon anc 
 table, eftimate to XX pound fterling. 
 
 Item — He has fuffered his followers to fpoil me ane coach 
 
 of the furniture qlk flood me fifty pound fterling. 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with other twa trunks full of coarfe 
 fheets and neprie, to the number of forty pair, or thereby of fhcets, 
 
 and twenty ftand of coarfe neprie, or thereby ; the pair of 
 
 fhcets and the furniture confiding of twelve ells, at half crown an ell, 
 amounts threttie fhillings fterling the pair. Inde VII and XX pound. 
 
 Item — The ftand of neprie, confifting of table cloth, twa dozen of 
 nepkins, and ane towel, eftimate to the ftand. Inde 
 
 Item — He has intromitten with an trunk full of fuits of apparel, 
 qr. of there was eight fuits of apparel, or thereby, fome of velvet, 
 fome of faten, and fome of cloth, every fuit confifting of cloaths, 
 
 bricks, and clofe dublets with velvet, eftimate at the fuit. 
 
 Inde - ii = viij — iiij lib. 
 
 To this and other complaints of a breach of the articles of capitu- 
 lation, Col. Home, among various excufes, anfwered, that what he 
 did was by order of the Committee of Eftates ; by whofe particular 
 directions this place was demolifhed, on their being informed that the 
 earl's officers and foldiers had broken their parole, and were then ac- 
 tually in arms. 
 
 This caftle, like the old one, is triangular, and furrounded by a 
 wet ditch ; it had a large round tower on each angle; that on the eaft 
 is demolifhed; that on the weffern angle is called Murdoc's tower, 
 from Murdoc, Duke of Albany, having been confined there, as has 
 been before mentioned. The entrance into the caftle yard lies through 
 a gate on the northernmoft angle, machicollated and flanked by two 
 circular towers. Over the arch of the gate is the creft of the Max- 
 wells, with the date of the lafit repairs; and this motto, " I bid ye 
 fair." The refidence of the family was on the eaft fide, which mea- 
 fures i 'J3 feet. It is elegantly built, in the ftile of James VI. It has 
 three ftories, the doors and window case handfomely adorned with 
 fculpture; over thofe of the ground Poor are the coats of arms and 
 initials of the Maxwells, and the different branches of that family; 
 VOL. I. xx over
 
 i;o DUMFRIES HIRE. 
 
 over the windows of the fecond (lory are reprefcntations of legendary 
 tales ; and over the third, fables from Ovid's Metamorphofcs ; in the 
 front is a handfome door cafe leading to the great hall, which is 91 
 feet by 26. 
 
 At a confiderable diftance towards the north-eaft of the area, on 
 which the caftle {lands, and near the farm houfe, is a handfome gate 
 of fquared {tone, having a circular arch. 
 
 This view, which fhews the fouth-weft afpeel of this noble ruin, 
 ■was drawn A. d. 1789. The building towards the right was the part 
 wherein the Earl refided. 
 
 CARLAVEROCK CASTLE. Plate ii. 
 
 J. his plate mews the eaft fide of the caftle, taken a little to the 
 fouthward of the eaft. 
 
 In addition to the circumftances related of King Edward I. refpecT:- 
 ing this caftle, it may be added, from the authority of the wardrobe 
 account of the 28th of that king, publifhed by the Society of Anti- 
 quaries, that he was here for feveral days in the months of July, Au- 
 guft, and November, a. d. 1300. 
 
 CARLAVEROCK CASLE. Plate in. 
 
 1 his view was taken a little more to the eaft ward than Plate I. 
 At a diftance, on the right, is feen the gate leading into the caftle 
 field, or area, with the farm-houfe adjacent. 
 
 This, with the preceding views, were drawn a. d. 1789, 
 
 DRUID I-
 
 DUMFRIESHIRE. 
 
 DRUID I C A L STONES. 
 
 Near the Kirk of Holywood, Dumfriejhtre. 
 
 171 
 
 DRUIDICAL STONES, NEAR HOLYIVOOD. 
 
 T H1S ova l °f ftones, fuppofed Druidical, was, according to tradi- 
 tion, furrounded by a large grove of oaks, faid to be ufed by the Druids 
 in the celebration of their rites ; whence it obtained the denomina- 
 tion of the holy wood, and was conlidered by the people with a great 
 degree of veneration. 
 
 When Chriftianity prevailed, this facred ground was chofen for the 
 fite of a monaftery, called from the Grove, Monafterium de Sacra 
 Nemoris, 
 
 The
 
 x 7 z DUMFRIESHIRE, 
 
 The annexed plan, which was accurately taken in 1789, will fuffi- 
 ciently defcribe thefe {tones; fo that more words concerning them are 
 unneccflary. 
 
 The abbey here mentioned is faid to have been founded by the Lady 
 Davorgilda, daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, who died A. D. 
 1 269. In Keith's Appendix, it is placed among the Pra?monftraten- 
 fian Monafteries ; and Johannis de Sacro Bofco, a great mathemati- 
 cian, famous for his book de Sphasra, is there fuppofed to have been 
 a profeffed monk of this houfe. 
 
 The laft remains of this abbey were taken down in 1778 to rebuild 
 the parifh church. Crofs the middle of the building was a fine Go- 
 thic arch that fupported the oak roof. Under the floor were a num- 
 ber of fepulchral vaults. The entrance was through a handfome femi- 
 circular arch. 
 
 ADDENDA
 
 ( 173 ) 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 ROSLrN CASTLE, EDINBURGHSHIRE; AND DIRLETON CASTLE, 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 The fame year (i e. a. d. 1650.) 
 
 uoon after the proclamation was made againft the Mofs Troopers, 
 Colonel Monk, with a party of foot, four pieces of ordnance, and a 
 mortar piece, was fent to reduce Dirlcton Houfe, <"uie ot the n^fts of 
 thefe Mofs Troopers ; which being joined by Lambert, he foon 
 effecled, taking all that were within pnfoners, whereof two of the 
 moft notorious, with their captain, one Waite, were prefently fhot 
 to death. After this, Monk, taking with him a part) of fix hundred 
 foot, marched againft Roflin Caftle, where, though at fir ft he met 
 with fome refiftance, it was quickly furrendercd to him. — Life of 
 Cromwell, fat d to have been written by Baron Pengelly, a natural f on of 
 Richard Cromwell, and revi/ed by Dr. Edmond Gibfon. 
 
 SEATON HOUSE, EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 X he palace of Seaton ftands in the middle of a large plantation of 
 trees, of at leaft twelve a res, with a large garden to the fouth, and 
 another to the north. The houfe conufts of three large fronts ot 
 freeftone, and in the middle is a triangular court : the front to the 
 fouth-eaft hath a very noble apartment of a hall and drawing room, 
 a handfome parlour, bed chamber, drefting room, and cloiet. This 
 apartment fecms to have been built in the reign of Mary, Queen of 
 Scots; for on the ceiling of the great hall are plaftercd the arms of 
 Scotland, with the arms of France on one hand, and thofe of Francis 
 the Second, then Dauphin, with his confort,. Queen Mary, in one 
 efcutcheon, on the other ; the arms of Hamilton, Duke of Chateau 
 Herault, with feveral other noblemen's arms and fupporters, with the 
 French order of St. Michael round them. 
 
 vol. 1. y \ The
 
 174 ADDENDA. 
 
 The front to the north feems to be a much older building than this. 
 The apr.rtments of Hate arc on the fecond ftory, and very fpacious ; 
 three great rooms, at lead forty feet high, which they fay were finely 
 iurnifhed, ever fincc Mary, Queen of Scots, on her return from France, 
 kept her court there : alfo two large galleries that were filled with 
 pic-lures ; but on my Lord Winton's forfeiture, all thefe were fold by 
 the commiffioncrs of inquiry, or ilolen by the fervants ; and now there 
 is not a whole window on that fide of the houfe. The third front is 
 lull of good lodging rooms, but all out of order : at every angle of 
 the houfe, and on each fide of the gate, are handfomc towers. 
 
 There are a great many offices in the outer courts, and a handfome 
 church or chapel, where are fome old marble monuments. The fitua- 
 tion of this palace is very fine, and in the middle of an efirate of five 
 thoufand pounds fterling a year, and the three Towns of Cockney, 
 Tranent, and Long Nidry, where the tenants live, each within half a 
 mile of his feat ; and the whole eftate he could fee from his windows : 
 yet this Earl would throw himfelf into the rebellion, and forfeit all. 
 
 About two miles from Seaton is another palace, called Winton, a 
 more modern and fafhionable building, yet entirely out of repair, 
 though the gardens, which are very fpacious, are very well kept, the 
 York-buildings Company, who purchafed the forfeited cilates, having 
 let them to a gardener ; but the houfe is too big for any family, and 
 mull fall down. 
 
 Tsie family of the Seatons is one of the nobleft families in the king- 
 dom, there being few families of any antiquity but are either come 
 of them, or are allied to them. They were great oppofers of the Re- 
 formation, and all revolutions fince. They always lean on the Popifh 
 fide, although almoffc all of them profefs themfelves Protefrants. 
 They are alfo very ancient. 
 
 Shakespeare, in his tragedy of Macbeth, brings in the Lord Sea- 
 ton; but that I take to be of no authority: but upon the records there 
 ib a charter, granted by King William the Fiift, " Alexandro Felio 
 Philippi de Seaton, Winto and Wifburgh." The famous Sir Chrifro- 
 pher Seaton, who married King Robert Bruce's filler, and was killed 
 near Dumfries, had by his wife, Sir Alexander, the firil Lord Seaton; 
 
 Kins
 
 ADDENDA. 175 
 
 King Robert, his uncle, having creeled his lands of Seaton into a Ba- 
 rony. There is one thing very memorable recorded of this Sir Alex<- 
 ander, which I cannot omit telling you. In 1332 King Edward came 
 before Berwick, when this Sir Alexander was Governor, and fummon- 
 ing him to furrendcr, threatened to hang his two fons, whom he had 
 amongft his hoftages, if he delayed. The gallows was erected, and 
 the young men led forth under the town wall. His tendernefs for his 
 children began to move him, when his lady came up and told him, 
 they were young enough to have more children ; but if he furrender- 
 ed, they could never recover their honour. On which he refufed, 
 and flood and faw his two fons hanged. She, who was of the name 
 of Cheyns, was as good as her word ; for fhe brought him forth two 
 fons afterwards. 
 
 We find George, Lord Seaton, Governor of Edinburgh, during the 
 regency of Mary of Lorain, and in 1558, was one of the commif- 
 iioners appointed to treat of a marriage between Alary and the Dau- 
 phin of France. We find the fame Lord fent Embafiador to France 
 from King James the Sixth in 1583. His fon, Robert, was created 
 the firft Earl of Winton in 16:0, and his fon treated King Charles 
 the Firft, and all his Court, when he made a progrefs to Scotland in 
 1633, at his palace at Seaton. The fine furniture of crimfon velvet, 
 laced with gold, in the great apartments, was fold by the commif- 
 fioners of inquiry but the other day. The great grandfon to the 
 Earl was tried and condemned at London for the rebellion at Pref- 
 ton, and forfeited honours and eftate. — Journey through Scotland. 
 London, 1723. p. 39. 
 
 HOME AND TANTALLON CASTLE, 
 
 XTL. D. 1650, immediately after the taking of Edinburgh Cattle, 
 which furrendered on the 24th of December, Cromwell fent Colonel 
 Fenwick, with his own, and Colonel Syler's regiments, to take Home 
 Caftle ; on which Fenwick marched thither, and drew up his men, 
 and fent the Governor the following fummons : " His Excellency the 
 Lord General Cromwell hath commanded me to reduce this cattle, 
 you now poilefs, under his obedience, which if you now deliver 
 
 into
 
 i;6 ADDENDA. 
 
 into my hands for his fervice, you (hall have terms for yourfelf and 
 thole with you : if you refufe, I doubt not but in a fhort time, by 
 God's affiftance, to obtain what I now demand. I expect your an- 
 fvver by feven of the clock to-morrow morning; and reft your fer- 
 vant, Geo. Fenwick." 
 
 The Governor, whofe name was Cockburn, being, it feems, a man • 
 of fancy, returned him this ouibbling anfwer : 
 
 " RIGHT HONOURABLE, 
 
 " I have received a trumpeter of yours, as he tells me, without a 
 pafs, to furrender Home Caftle to the Lord-General Cromwell : pleafe 
 you, I never faw your general. As for Home Caftle, it ftands upon 
 a rock. Given at Home Caftle this day before feven o'clock. So 
 refteth, without prejudice to my native country, your moft humble 
 fervant, " Th. Cockburn." 
 
 And foon after he fent the Colonel these rerfes : 
 
 " I, William of the Waftle, 
 
 Am now in my caftle : 
 
 And aw the dosrs in the town 
 
 Shant't gar me gang down." 
 But the governor did not long continue in this merry humour: for 
 Fenwick, having planted a battery againft the caftle, and made a 
 fmall breach, as the Englifli were juft ready to enter, Cockburn beat a 
 parley ; but the Colonel would not allow only quarter for life ; which 
 being accepted, the Governor, with his garrifon, being feventy-eight, 
 commanders and private fcldiers, marched out of the caftle ; which 
 Captain Collinfon, with his company, immediately entered, to keep 
 it for the Parliament. 
 
 Colonel Monk was alfo detached with about three regiments of 
 horfe and foot to reduce Tantallon Caftle : being come before it, he 
 found the Scots very refradory, whereupon he caufed the mortar 
 pieces to play for cight-and-forty hours; but thefe did little execu- 
 tion, till fix battering guns being planted, were fo well managed, that 
 the Governor, and thofe that were with him, were forced to fubmit 
 to mercy. — Cromwell built three citadels, Leith, Air, and Invernefs. — 
 Pengellys L'iJc of Cromwell, 
 
 END OF VOL. I. 
 
 T Bensky. Printer, 
 Bolt C oun, Fleet Street, London.
 
 COUNTY INDEX, VOL.1. 
 
 BERWICKSHIRE. 
 
 Jjerwick upon Tweed Caftle 
 Cockburn's-Path Tower 
 Coldingham Nunnery, Plate I. 
 
 
 PAGP. 
 
 Ill— 
 
 -114 
 
 95, 
 
 96 
 
 97- 
 
 -100 
 
 Plate II. The S. Side of the Church is 
 
 1- 
 
 fhewn in this Plate, with a large broken Arch at the E. End, J- 100 
 
 drawn 178Q. 
 
 Coldingham Nunnery, Plate III. fhows the N. Side of the~| 
 Building, nowufed as the Parifh Church, with divers ruined I 
 
 Arches, formerly part of the Nunnery, fome of them now r * ^0 
 
 converted to private Tombs or Burial Places, drawn 1798. J 
 
 Dryburgh Abbey, Plate I. 103—110 
 
 Plate II. 110, 111 
 
 Home Caftle (fee Addenda, page 175, 176) 100—103 
 
 Peath's Bridge ■ 96, 97 
 
 DUMFRIES- SHIRE. 
 
 Amiesfield, or Hemsfield Tower — — 157 — 16*0 
 
 Bow Butts, near Jarborough Caftle, Glencairn ■ 152 
 
 Carlaverock Caftle, Nithfdale, Plate I. (Frontifpiece to Vol. I.) 161 — 170 
 
 , . Plate II. 170 
 
 , Plate III. 170 
 
 Clofeburne Caftle, in Nithfdale 152—155 
 
 Co whill Tower, Nithfdale 148 
 
 Druidical Stones, near the Kirk of Holywood 171 — 181 
 
 Dumfries Bridge ■ 160, 161 
 
 Friars Carfe, in Nithfdale 148, 149 
 
 Hoddam Caftle, Annandale, Plate I. 141—144 
 
 . Plate II. 144, 145 
 
 vol. i. A Lag
 
 " COUNTY INDEX, VOL. I. 
 
 Lag Caftle, Nithfdale, Plate I. 
 Plate II. 
 
 Morton Caftle, in Nithfdale 
 Sanquhar Caftle, Plate I. 
 
 Plate II. 
 
 Spedlin's Caftle, Plate I. 
 Plate II. 
 
 155, 
 
 PAGB 
 
 156 
 
 
 156 
 
 149, 
 
 150 
 
 150, 
 
 1.51 
 
 151, 
 
 152 
 
 145, 
 
 146 
 
 
 147 
 
 Torthorold Caftle 147, 148 
 
 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 Anthony's, Saint, Chapel, Plate I. 40, 41 
 
 Plate II. 41 
 
 Borthwick Caftle 70 
 
 Craig-Miller Caftle, Midlothianfhire, Plate I. 49—51 
 
 Plate II. ■ 51 
 
 Crighton Caftle 52—54 
 
 Crofs of Edinburgh 52, 53 
 
 Dalhoufte Caftle, Plate I. 71 
 
 Plate II. 72 
 
 & 
 
 Edinburgh Caftle, S. E. View 1—6' 
 
 North-weft View 7 — 26 
 
 Weft View 26 
 
 North View 26 . 
 
 No. l. 
 
 Hawthornden, Plate I. 55—60 
 
 Plate II. 60 
 
 Plate III. — 60 
 
 Heriot's Hofpital 35 — 37 
 
 Holyrood Houfe, Abbey and Palace 27 — 30 
 
 Chapel, Weft View 30—34 
 
 1 Eaft View of the Infide 34 
 
 . Weft View of the Infide 35 
 
 Marchifton
 
 C O U N T Y I N D E X, V O L. I. ill 
 
 PAGE 
 
 March id on Tower ■ 54 
 
 Refialrig Church . 4,$ 
 
 Roqut's, Saint, Chapel 38, 39 
 
 Roflin Chapel, Midlothian, or Edinburghfhirc • — 43 — 47 
 Caftle (See Addenda, page 173; 47 — 49 
 
 Seton Houfc, Plate I. (See Addenda, page 173, 174, 175) 65 
 
 Plate II. 66 
 
 Seton Church, Eaft Lothian — — 66 — 70 
 
 Trinity Church 37, 38 
 
 Well-Houfe Tower . 27 
 
 Woodhoufe-Lie, Plate I. 6] — 63 
 
 Plate II. — — 64 
 
 Wryte's Houfes 39 
 
 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 
 
 Berwick, North, Ruin on the Shore — — • 79 
 
 Ciftertian Nunnery, at North Berwick, Plate I. 76 — 78 
 
 Plate II. 78 
 
 Plate HI. 78 
 
 Dirleton Caftle, Plate I. (No Plate II. fee Adden a 173) 74—76 
 
 Dunbar Caftle, Plate I. 85 — 90 
 
 Plate II. . 90 
 
 Gulane Church 73, 74 
 
 Haddington Church ■ 84, 85 
 
 Hales Caftle 90 — 93 
 
 Innerwick Caftle — — — — Q3, 94 
 
 Tantallon Caftle, Plate I. (See Addenda, page 175, 176) 79—83 
 Plate II. — 83 
 
 LANERK-
 
 iv COUNTY INDEX, VOL. I. 
 
 LANERKSHIRE. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Biggar Collegiate Church 137, 138 
 
 Bog Hall, in Clydfdale 138 
 
 Hamilton Collegiate Church 139 
 
 ROXBURGHSHIRE. 
 
 Goldieland's Caftle 135 
 
 Jedburgh Abbey 135—135 
 
 Kelfo Abbey 115—117 
 
 Malrofs, or Melrofe Abbey, Teviotdale 122—133 
 
 Minto Tower ~— — ■ 135, 136 
 
 Roxburgh Caftle 117—122 
 
 The Binder is defired to place all the Views fo as to face their refpeclive Defcription3 ; and the 
 bottom of each View to be next the back of the book.
 
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