\ : : 3 ' 3 1 9 1 , nvM. ri« , CCMFANY, r x^ADELPHIA. u^nO(')noonn()otH)()(V^no()()0(K)(MAX><)() .uiiL2L>ii H'^-i ONE HUNDRED YEARS 1 816-1916 WM.H.HORSTMANN CONfPANY PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK >7 n(-,nnr)Dc V v)( « » x x ) <->< « ii >< « x )Oi: i; .v h xx x )nnnna "^ ii- WILLIAM H. HORSTMANN 1785-1850 The Founder of the Businesa ONE HUNDRED YEARS 1816-1916 THE CHRONICLES OE AN OLD BUSINESS HOUSE IN THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA ' The secret of success is constancy to purpose " — Beaconsfield WM. II. HORSTMANN COMPANY PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK COPYBIGHT, 1916, BY WM. H. HOKSTMANN COMPANY PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. PART I HISTORICAL PART I HISTORICAL HESE are the chronicles of an old business house in the City of Philadelphia and a brief biography of the founder of that house together with some account of those who have followed in his footsteps. The founder of the business now known as William H. Horstmann Company was William H. Horstmann, a native of Cassel in the Province of Hesse-Nassau in Germany. Born in the year 1785, in the days when Frederick the Great was about to close his striking career and when time had just given birth to the lusty new nation of those days, the United States of America, the boyhood of young Horstmann was marked by stirring episodes and epochal events that were momentous in the history of the human race. Individual liberty was asserting itself more and more, class privileges were being narrowed and swept away, and the old order was gradually giving place to the new. The French Revolution, too, was smouldering under the thin lava of armed sup- pression and, uncontrollable, would soon break out in vio- lent ferocity and atrocious disregard of the very human rights it was designed to champion. Napoleon Bona- parte, also, whose youth was about to merge into the activ- old cassel ity of early manhood, was soon to begin the marvellous career that enchained the attention of the whole world until his star paled and set beyond the heights of St. Helena. It is reasonable to suppose that young Horstmann was deeply impressed by all these stirring events, and that his 7 views at a later period would be founded on the experiences of his boyhood years as well as on the liberalism that was spreading then, like wildfire, over almost the whole extent of the civilized world. In olden days many occupations required a seven years' apprenticeship to master their intricacies and some of these now termed trades were known then as professions. The art of the 'passementier' was one of this kind, and it is of such importance that its name is found to have a similar root in most languages. A very old writer, Boyd, refers to an article of apparel 'passemented with gold,' and this brief reference supplies a generic meaning for the word: broadly that of ornamentation or decoration. The work of the passementier included the weaving of narrow textile fabrics, such as dress and upholstery trim- mings and coach laces, as well as the making of epaulettes, aiguillettes, sword-knots and countless other articles for mili- tary equipment. The material entering into the production of these goods was of the greatest variety, embracing silk, worsted, linen, cotton, and gold and silver threads. The father of young Horstmann was the third in direct family descent who had mastered the passementier 's calling, and consequently the boy as he grew up had every opportunity for learning the business thoroughly. He served his appren- ticeship with his father, and thus had superior advantages for acquiring a good knowledge of many details not usually within the reach of an ordinary apprentice. The manner of learning a handicraft that prevailed in those days was a good one, and as it had a direct bearing on the future of the young apprentice some reference to it may be made here. The Trades Guilds or 'Gilds' which had their inception as long ago as the seventh century, some claim early Grecian and Roman times, grew to amazing proportions through the Middle Ages, until at last they reached their height in the four- teenth and fifteenth centuries. From that time they gradually declined, but young William H. Horstmann had the good fortune to be trained under that system and to derive benefit from the thoroughness it inculcated before it finally gave place to the new order of things. The organization of the guild rested on three classes : the apprentice, the journeyman and the master. A youth when apprenticed or indentured would serve a stated length of time, generally three years. The life was by no means easy: it embraced many duties, long hours and severe discipline. His first term of service ended, the apprentice now com- menced a probationary period of four years as journeyman : going about from place to place, obtaining work wherever he could, and learning more of his handicraft from the various masters he served. The four years of peregrination over and with good rec- ommendations from all those he had served, the journeyman could now aspire to full membership of his guild as a master, but before realizing that ambition he was required to exhibit his masterpiece as conclusive evidence of ability to hold that rank. The article to be made was often specified by the guild, but more frequently was chosen by the candidate himself. Whatever the specimen submitted, it had to show ingenuity and skill of a convincing character, otherwise the jealousy of the masters would exclude the aspirant from the master rank with its accompanying and eagerly sought privileges. The guilds had many good features, one in particular being thoroughness of effort in learning a handicraft. For many centuries they did a useful work in fostering the arts, but their organization and spirit dating from remote times made them too conservative to assimilate modern ideas, so that in the end the whole organization was doomed to collapse. Young William H. Ilorstmann having completed his ap- prenticeship, now prepared to set out on his travels as a journeyman and one fine morning with his modest belongings in the knapsack strapped on his back he started to see the world. With his brother by his side to hearten and cheer the first few miles of the journey, the young man bade adieu to home, turned his back on the past, crossed the stone bridge over the beloved Fulda Eiver— scene of many happy recollec- tions—and made haste to reach the spot where the last parting was to be made. With staff in hand the young passementier traversed the greater part of Germany, Austria, Switzerland and France. At the early age of twenty he was working in Vienna, a city inferior only to Paris in its requirements for the articles he could make. Contrary to the usual custom, he prolonged the probationary period much be- yond its regular length. It is possible he could not command the means to commence busi- ness for himself, and it is certain that the disturbed con- dition of Europe at that time was quite unfavorable for nearly all kinds of business. In the year 1809 at the age of twenty-four William H. Horst- mann became a soldier and participated in the struggle between Austria and France. He served in the free corps of Major Schill, and took part in the numerous skirmishes and sallies against portions of the French army. The young soldier had learned to ride well at school and he was a dexter- ous gymnast, which included the use of the foils. He was well-fitted for service in this dashing corps, and enjoyed the exercise and outdoor activity of military life that it afforded. He retained his connection with it until the corps was dis- banded, following the death of its commander in the disastrous fight at Stralsund in the Baltic province of Pomerania. SQUARE IN OLD VIENNA SOUVENIR FIELD PIECE A cherished souvenir of those daj's is the piece of field artillery of the Napoleonic period that later came into Mr. Horstmann's possession. It was doubtless a model made 10 THE LOUVRE, PARIS About 1815 for some arsenal or museum, is constructed of brass and is complete to the smallest detail. It is believed to have been plundered during the wars and sent out to America for sale. Once more a passementier, William H. Horstmann deter- mined to return to France, where he had found superior opportunities for engaging in this field of work, and accord- ingly he revisited Paris and remained there for several years. This city offered many advantages for learning all the intricacies and refinements of his business, for Paris has ever been foremost in the production of articles of elegance and luxury. In matters of dress and personal adornment, too, this city had long held undisputed sway. Napoleon at this time was reviving the glories and traditions of former empires, even as far back as that of Charlemagne, and the military and civil costumes and all the lavish display of form and color that he fostered for political reasons gave splendid opportunities for full exercise of skill and ingenuity on the part of artificers of all kinds. In this way the workmen of Paris received an education for the eye and a training for the hand in the deft working out of delicate effects that made them superior to all competitors. William H. Horstmann profited by this unique experience. He had a natural taste for the artistic side of life and this was cultivated to a high degree by residence in the gay capital. Naturally ingenious, he became proficient in designing novelties and soon he found opportu- nity for a wider exercise of these useful qualities in one of the largest establishments of the city. Here he was foreman for a period of two years, and learned much that was to be of great value in his after career. A branch of considerable importance in the passementier 's art was the weaving of narrow fabrics, and particularly those of figured design in what was known as a draw-loom. In this loom the warp-threads are passed through loops made in 11 strings that are vertically disposed, a string to each warp- thread. The strings are arranged in separate groups, and are pulled by a draw-boy in the order required by the pattern, the groups being drawn up by pressing on handles. The loom operator, as he plies his shuttle through the varying combina- tions of raised warp-threads, assists in the production of the pattern through the use of numerous treadles placed beneath his seat. This to and fro motion of the shuttle in following the pattern has often to be done hundreds of times before the design repeats itself. The work of operating a hand-loom called for considerable exertion and no small amount of dexterity. In addition, each time another pattern was re- quired the loom had to be set to make the new combinations, and this was a complicated task, for the looped strings con- trolling the lifting of the warp-threads had to be harnessed together in many different groupings. This was a time-con- suming task, so that in spite of its usefulness the draw-loom had many restrictions, and weaving on it was naturally a slow process. The whole art of weaving received a tremendous impetus, and civilization was benefited as much as, or more than, it ever has been from the hand or brain of any one man when Joseph Marie Jacquard, a native of the great French silk manu- facturing centre of Lyons, invented the Jacquard Machine in the year 1801. It would require technical description and illustration to make clear the working of this marvellous in- vention. It effects, by simple means, what formerly had been a complex and tedious operation, so that now the most varied and extensive patterns can be woven with as much ease and rapidity as a piece of plain cloth. The early history of the Jacquard Machine has a particu- lar significance here, for William H. Horstmann, who was then an adept in hand-loom work, saw clearly into the future and made a study of the new loom when it was perfected and introduced to public notice in the year 1808, or thereabouts. He soon mastered its difficulties and set up and wove some beautiful and intricate designs. A profile head of Napoleon that he worked in cut black velvet on a crimson ground is an 12 excellent likeness, as the reproduction shows. It is treasured in the family with the care it deserves. Additional interest is given to the Napoleonic portrait by the fact that Mr. Horstmann was in Paris while many impor- tant events were transpiring there. He shared in the excite- ment attending the thrilling events of the memorable 'hun- dred days' that brought the political and military career of the great Bonaparte to a close, and he was an actual witness of the last scenes accompanying the downfall of that genius. Although he could not for- get his native land, Mr. Horst- mann enjoyed his long resi- dence in France. The gaiety of the French people as well as their spirit and vivacity found a sympathetic response in his own temperament. Their love for the ornamental arts, the elegance and polish of their manners, and the simplicity of their national life all appealed to him and it was only because his future beckoned him strongly to an- other land that he decided upon a step that Avas to have great consequences. The golden opportunities of the American Continent were now attracting active and ambitious men from the principal European countries, and the young and vigorous nation of the United States was the lode- star that drew William H. Horstmann from his busy life in the old world. Early in the year 1816 ho sailed for the new land, and with good judgment chose Philadelphia for his future home, a centre that then gave promise of becoming the Lyons of the new continent. His slender purse w^as the only limitation he knew, for he w^as an active and industrious man, cheerful, full of hope and optimistic, as all true pioneers have 13 NAPOLEON From a cut velvet portrait woven by William H. Horstmann about 1810 ever been. He found employment with Mr. Frederick Hoeckley, a fellow-countryman who had been long settled in Philadelphia, and who was carrying on business as a passe- mentier, or what was known in this country as a coach-lace weaver. Soon after this, Mr. Horstmann commenced business for himself and took the first step in a career of activity and success. The business was small and the resources limited, but he worked with enthusiasm and industry. Within eight months after his arrival, he married the daughter of his former em- ployer. At this time the young man was thirty-one years old. With an industrious and capable wife to assist him, the modest business of William H. Horstmann soon commenced to grow larger. The first store was in the building No. 59 North Third Street, later known as No. 51, of which only a part was occupied. The business increasing, an en- tire store was rented on the same street and next door to the hostelry known then as the 'Harp and Crown.' Increasing prosperity necessitated fur- ther removals to other parts of the same street to obtain sufficient accommodation, until finally the property at No. 55 North Third Street was bought. This was followed by the purchase of a lot on the south side of Arch Street between Second and Third, on which a comfortable dwelling was built. The business and residence lots ran half way back and met each other, thus giving communication on their own ground 14 THE FIRST STORE 51 (formerly 59) North Third Street and affording space for a garden of considerable extent. Feeling himself firmly established in business, Mr, Horst- mann was now able to carry out a project he had long enter- tained. In the year 1823 he took passage across the Atlantic to revisit the scenes of early days. The first part of his trip ended disastrously in shipwreck on the rocks near the en- trance to Le Havre, France. The lives of passengers and crew were saved only after much toil and great suffering through t'otC, ^y>.S STEPHEN GIRAHD, Jij-a Banker, South Third Street, ►•;;-«» Pay to fy/3Q _ » ■•fh€rr^=JMlan, — Ctento. Dollars, BUSINESS RELICS exposure. After a pleasant sojourn abroad Mr. Horstmann returned to Philadelphia and about this time a branch house was opened in New York City. In 1824 the first Jacquard Machine brought to the United States was imported by Mr. Horstmann. About this time he also introduced the first plaiting and braiding machines. The continued growth of the business now called for increased room, and in 1831 a new factory was erected at the corner of Germantown Road and Columbia Avenue. It was a large four-story building of brick, having about twenty 15 windows on each floor of the Columbia Avenue front, with probably about half as many on the side. In 1850 Mr. Henry V. Allien, a gentleman of French descent related to an old friend of Mr. Horstmann living in the Commercial Capital, was taken into partnership in the New York Branch. The two older sons of William H. Horstmann, William J. and Sigmund H., born in 1819 and 1820, had been educated II I l|lllll!llllll| III! I I l||| I l|llf llilllllll Mil THE OLD MILL Germantown Road and Columbia Avenue at a Moravian Seminary near Lancaster, Pa. They were fortunate in receiving a good training from a sympathetic teacher whose character greatly impressed the boys and had a decided influence on their after lives. Their further in- struction was followed up in Philadelphia : a plain and prac- tical but sound education, fitting each at about the age of fifteen to begin business life. William, the elder, had a de- cided taste for science and mechanics, and he made many 16 ingenious models. A model hand-loom complete in every detail was constructed by him at that time and is still in perfect working order. The commencement of his career in the factory was on the bottom rung of the ladder, and step-by- step he learned every branch of manufacture. He sat at a loom until he was able to weave every article they made. He went through the various departments and mastered all their details. He was also a very good draughtsman and had excellent taste in design. Siginund's tastes were mercantile. He had a gift for organization, had all the qualities required in good business generalship, and had the ability to marshal things in effective array for carrying out comprehensive plans. When the sons took up their duties in their father's business, its continual growth was apparent. The factory at Germantown Road and Columbia Avenue was becom- ing too small to meet the in- creasing demand. William J. Horstmann, the youthful su- perintendent, had his quar- ters in the factory so as to be always on the spot— the first at his post before the workmen took their places in the morning, Sigmund being likewise at his place in the counting-house and salesrooms. That the head of the house reposed implicit confidence in the ability and integrity of his sons is shown by the fact that when William H. Horstmann took another trip to Europe in 1838, this time accompanied by his eldest son, William J., he left Sigmund in entire charge of the business. Sigmund was then only eighteen years old, and he conducted his charge successfully until the following year, when the two travellers returned from abroad. This second trip to Europe gave William H. Horstmann MODEL OF HAND-LOOM Made by William J. Horstmann in 1835 17 much pleasure and satisfaction, naturally enhanced by the presence of his eldest son. He showed the young man all the loved and well-remembered spots, and enjoyed the incidents of their holiday with keen relish. He compared the condition of things abroad with that prevailing in the land of his adop- tion, and congratulated himself on his good fortune in having taken the wise step of emigrating. He was now a man of WILLIAM J. HORSTMANN 1819-1872 means, with an extensive business that was still expanding regularly from year to year. He had a prominent place among the merchants and manufacturers of America, his name was respected and honored in the country of his adop- tion, his firm had a high reputation and his credit knew no bounds. In Paris, Vienna and other cities he sought out his friends, made many new business connections and laid the founda- tion of a large import trade that has grown steadily ever 18 since. He was already an importer of numerous goods that were sold in Europe much lower than the cost of their manu- facture at home. He now added many new articles to this list and materially increased the source of his foreign sup- plies. As an experiment he bought a large quantity of fancy goods, and this was the inception of the large fancy goods branch of the business. m^i SIGMUND H. HORSTMANN 1820-1869 After Mr. Horstmann's return, and with his two sons to aid, the business kept on increasing. In the year 1842, accom- modation being inadequate, the old premises at No. 55 North Third Street were torn down and a new five-story brick building was erected, having a fine store on the ground floor. The upper floors were used for manufacturing, the factory at Germantown Eoad still being carried on. Being on a deep lot an additional building of three stories was put up, which added greatly to the sjDace for salesrooms and factory. The 19 /^ suburban factory was reserved for the large looms working on staple goods, for the preparation of warps to be used in all looms, and for spooling and similar uses. The city factory, now employing a larger working force, was used for the manufacture of dress trimmings, coach goods and numer- ous small goods, and for the filling of miscellaneous daily orders. The general office was now placed in the new build- ing, and William J. was able to leave his factory quarters and resume his home life. At this period Third Street was one of Philadelphia's main business streets, the corner of Third and Market Streets being almost the commercial hub. Between Market and Arch on Third Street there were many prominent business houses. Adjoining on the north was the bookselling and blank-book manufacturing place of Wm. G. Mentz. To the south the large china and glass importing house of Mott and Schober stood. Farther south was the store of Warder Morris, a dnig dealer, adjoined by the 'City Hotel' (suc- cessor to the old 'Harp and Crown') kept by Dunlap, and at that time a favorite resort for merchants from the south and west. Below there were many other merchants, mostly wholesale dry-goods dealers. On the west side Benjamin Bullock had his extensive wool warehouse, with the whole- sale wine and liquor business of John Angiie, Jr., nearby. Phipps and Sons carried on a hardware business on the southwest corner of Third and Arch Streets, the southeast corner being occupied by Robert Stevens, a toy and fancy- goods importer. The day of huge business buildings had not dawned, and when the Horstmann building was erected it attracted much attention because of its commodious plan and handsome ex- terior. A feature that became celebrated was the great sign running across its entire front, on which a large shield and a great eagle, with flag trophies, sabres, drums, shakos, knap- sacks and other military emblems were blended with much ingenuity. The piers supporting a cornice of the building itself were decorated with halberds and fasces in high relief, while over each door and bulk window were such devices as 20 crossed swords and shields of Greek, Roman and Oriental design. The building of the new premises marked an important event in the history of the house, for in January, IS-iS, the two sons were taken into partnership, and the firm then became known as Wm. H. Horstmann & Sons. The young men were still known as ' the boys. ' They had never received any stated salary, but drew money as they needed it for their wants and charged it to themselves in the books. The great trust reposed in them by their father was never abused. Even after the tripartite partnership was fonned no articles of agreement were considered necessary : father and sons dividing the profits from time to time informally on occasions that suited their mutual convenience. Early in the year 1845 William H. Horstmann retired from business, leav- ing his capital in the hands of his sons. He could not give up work entirely, how- ever, and accordingly he came daily and *= carried on the active superintendence of the interests he had founded. The study of efficiency and economy in manufactur- ing is not a modern idea: it has been carried on more or less by thinking minds from the earliest times. Mr. Horstmann went into such matters with the thorough- ness that characterized all his methods and following all the articles he made, from their first begin- ning in the raw material until finished and packed for ship- ment, he kept careful record of cost at every stage of manu- facture, studied to prevent waste, aimed to reach the highest standard of perfection in material and design, and succeeded in gathering about him a small army of intelligent workers. His nominal retirement from business was dictated more by a THE SALESROOMS IX ' EARLY FIFTIES 723 Chestnut Street 21 wish to show full confidence in the ability of his sons than for any other reason. The gap between former and present times can never be bridged entirely, and the withdrawal of the head of the Horstmann house was perhaps a tangible expression of an underlying feeling that two young men of ability were better able than he to conduct the large business on the more modern lines its growth demanded. The business kept increasing in extent and importance. The factory on Third Street, helped even by considerably enlarged premises in the suburban annex, had become in-; adequate to meet all demands. Inconvenience had resulted . THE MILL AT FIFTH AND CHERRY STREETS Built in. 1852 from the twofold location, and more store room was needed. A new branch store was opened at 723 Chestnut Street for the sale and distribution of all merchandise, and it was deter- mined to bring the separate factories into one if a suitable site could be found. The lot of the German Lutheran Congrega- tion's burial ground at the northeast corner of Fifth and Cherry Streets was subsequently purchased, and in 1852 a fine five-story building of brick was erected. Because of the then residential character of the neighborhood care was exer- cised in designing a building that should be ornamental. It was the first manufacturing structure of elegance to be erected in Philadelphia, as well as the beginning of the use of 22 ornamental brickwork in such buildings. The principal in- terior features were all planned by William J. Ilorstmann. The new building gave more room for comfortable business expansion, and particularly for the manufacture of ribbons, THE FRIENDS MEETING HOUSE which new" branch had been taken up some two years previously. The building stands in a neighborhood that is venerable and full of old-time associations. The Friends' Meeting ST. Michael's Lutheran church Built in 1743 House adjoined it immediately to the east, and opposite stood St. Michael's German Lutheran Church, the erection of which dated far back into the earliest days of the City. Not far away was Christ Church, a revered relic dating back 23 to the year 1695, and containing the oldest bells in North America. The Betsy Ross Flag House and famous old Independence Hall are quite near. A beautifully executed picture of the latter, woven in silk by Wm. H. Horstmann & Sons, has been preserved. The grave of Benjamin Franklin, also, and the Meeting House of the Free Quakers are less than a block away. In fact the whole surrounding district is crowded with relics of former days, many of them being of national historic importance. OLD CHRIST CHURCH North Second Street BETSY ROSS HOUSE 239 Arch Street A considerable addition to the loom and other manufactur- ing facilities was made in the year 1857, when the entire patent rights, plant and stock of the Clinton Company, of Clinton, Mass., manufacturers of coach-laces, were purchased and added to the Horstmann plant. Still more room was needed, and in the year 1857 the Friends' Meeting House, adjoining on the east, was pur- chased, and after considerable enlargement was converted into salesrooms in 1860, thus enabling the Horstmann Brothers to dispense with their Chestnut Street Store, and 24 also the Third Street Building, consolidating their business in one location. As the business continued to expand other property was bought extending north to Race Street, together with some adjoining buildings, so that now a frontage of one hundred and forty feet on Fifth Street, about two hundred on Cherry Street and some seventy-five on Race Street had been reached, an area that gave facilities for carrjdng on the large business in the conduct of which every available foot of space I has been utilized. ', When William H. Horstmann commenced business in Philadelphia the articles he made were chiefly those de- scribed as proper to the passe- mentier's art. He gradually took up the manufacture of military equipments, such as pompons, epaulettes, hatbands and similar goods. Military wares and manufactures of metal began to assume impor- tance from about the year 1828. A German sword-maker, ar- morer and metal-worker, W^idt- mann, had carried on business wm. H.HSrstmannXsonsTn i'sre for some years on Third Street. Mr. Horstmann bought out this plant and transferred it and the workmen to his own factory. During Jackson 's administration Mr. Horstmann had par- ticipated in the discussion of the War Department relating to the introduction of new regulations for uniforms of the army and navy and later an important book on United States Army Uniforms was published by his sons. It con- tained illustrations of the uniforms authorized by the new regulations that had been issued from Washington. Some of the first chromo-lithographs made in Philadelphia were used, and altogether the work was a comprehensive one. Shortly after the opening of the Mexican War there had been a call for volunteers and Mr. Horstmann assisted in INDEPENDENCE HALL From a picture woven in silk by 25 raising a company of recruits. Delays ensued before the government was ready to take over this force, and so great was Mr. Horstmann's enthusiasm that he not only provided uniforms and equipment for the whole company, but sup- ported the entire strength from his own pocket for a period of some eight weeks. This was only one of many ways in which he showed his generosity. His patriotism was so warmly appreciated that he was unanimously elected 'hon- orary protector' of the company, known afterward as the 'Steuben Rifles.' It did good service in the war, and later sent him a present to show he was not forgotten. Their gift, a threefold trophy of actual war, was made up of Mexican saddles mounted in silver, a general's coat richly embroidered in gold, and a 'spare' cork leg of Santa Anna, complete with boot and spur. The untiring energy of William H. Horstmann could not go on for- ever. He was reaching the age when nature imposes physical limitations that could not be disregarded. His spirits, however, were still like those of a boy, exuberant as ever, and he planned another trip abroad. Vari- ous things interposed, and the idea had to be given up. In the year 1850 he commenced to take more leisure, and accompanied by his wife he went to Bethlehem, Pa., with the hope of benefiting in health by a change of scene. This hope was not realized, for soon after he was taken ill, and on August 5th he passed away. All through life Mr. Horstmann retained great affection for the country of his birth. Nevertheless he took great pride in the land of his adoption, and from the time of assuming citizenship in due course after his arrival up to the end of life he was a staunch upholder of civil liberty and freedom of opinion. Although deeply interested in national and state problems, he was no politician. He was eminently practical 26 BENJAMIN FRANKLIN S GRAVE Fifth and Arch Streets ill everything, took little interest in polemics and had scant patience with demagogues and theorists. He believed in free- dom for all, but not license, and was a strong upholder of respect for the laws made by a free people for their own self- government and he frequently expressed himself in terms of warm approval of the splendid advantages open to all classes alike in this favored land of America. The old Arch Street house was an hospitable abode. Music and sister arts found an appreciative response in the genial temperament of Mr. Horstmann, and many celebrated artists such as Ole Bull, a daughter of the composer Spohr, Taglioni and others were entertained with warm-hearted hospitality, while poor and less fortunate disciples of the muses could always draw upon his bounty. The features of the life of William H. Horstmann that stand out boldly are industry, integrity, affection and sim- plicity of life and so closely did his sons follow his footsteps that their lives read almost as a continuation of that of the founder of the house in their possession of the qualities that distinguished him. SigTiiund H. Horstmann visited Europe with his family in the year 1869, in search of health, having sutfered for years from a painful disease. Medical specialists were unable to afford relief, and he died abroad, in Rome, at the early age of forty-nine. William J. Horstmann was deeply affected by the loss of his brother, for so closely had they worked together that each looked upon the other as another self. Their brotherly affec- tion was unbounded. William always carried this grief in his heart, and it soon became apparent that his health was failing. He visited California in 1872, and seemed to suffer more from mental and physical dejection than from any other cause. He was unable to rally after his long railroad journey, and the end came in the month of May. He was actively identified with many of the financial institutions and benevolent so- cieties of his day, and shortly before his death had been appointed by the Governor of Pennsylvania as one of the Commission for the Centennial Exhibition. 27 A lesson of importance may be learned from the record contained in these pages of the lives of William H. Horstmann and his sons: ability, application, intelligent and consistent purpose, honesty, — all these are principal elements in busi- ness success and these great qualities, important as they were in the olden days, are now of even greater consequence in the more complicated business relations of modern times. Lives such as these, therefore, have a significance more than local or personal, for they constitute permanent monuments, stirring the imagination of the younger generation as they point out a clear course along the road that leads to great and deserved success. To complete the chronicles of the business and bring them down to present times, the following particulars are added: After the death of William J. Horstmann in 1872, the business of Wm. H. Horstmann & Sons was conducted by the Executors of his estate. Others in interest then were Samuel Clarkson, whose connection with the business dated from 1867, F. Oden Horstmann and Walter Horstmann, sons of William J. Horstmann, Albert Weihenmayer, William Schultz, Jr., and George H. Schultz. From the same date the military branch of the business was conducted by F. Oden Horstmann and Henry V. Allien, as Horstmann Brothers and Company, in Philadelphia, with a branch in New York under the name of Horstmann Brothers and Allien, in which Laurent H. Allien, a son of Henry V. Allien, was also interested. In January, 1877, both of these co-partnerships were dissolved. The firm of Horstmann Brothers and Company was continued from the year 1877 until the incorporation of the business in the year 1893 by F. Oden and Walter Horstmann. J. Howard Mecke also had an interest until his death in the year 1887. In the year 1893 the two branches of the business were consolidated and incorporated under the laws of the State of Pennsylvania, under the name of Wm. H. Horstmann Company. The first president of the new Company was Samuel 28 Clarkson, whose death in August, 1894, came only a few months after his election. In September of the same year Walter Horstmann, who had been associated with the business since the year 1876, was elected president, and has continued in that position up to the present time. F. Oden Horstmann 's health having failed in 1893, he was obliged to give up active business and remove to Wash- ington, D. C, although he continued as a director of the Company until his death in October, 1894. His son, F. Oden Horstmann, Jr., representing the fourth generation of the family, was also a director from 1903 until his death in June, 1912. i PART II THE BUSINESS TO-DAY PART II THE BUSINESS TO-DAY IME has wrought great changes in every depart- ment of life since the clays of a hundred years ago when the foundation of the business of Wm. H. Horstmann Company was laid. In no field of human activity are these changes more apparent than in the conduct of modern business. The feature of present-day business that stands out boldly and distinguishes it so greatly in comparison with the past is the all-important one of efficient organization. It is no longer possible for a business head to conduct large affairs by direct personal management of every department. The volume of business of a large mercantile concern to-day is too vast for one man to carry. To be successful a manufacturer or mer- chant of the twentieth century must possess the gift of gen- eralship to a superlative degree. The purchase of raw material in the markets of the world, the maintenance of an extensive manufacturing plant, the addition of new inven- tions and processes, the care of hundreds of working people engaged in a diversity of occupations, the marketing of the product, the supervision of the sales force and clerical staff, the important responsibility of banking and financing — these and other divisions of effort all call for an army of com- petent administrators as heads of the various departments of mercantile life. Conducting all these activities there must be the master minds of the business executives to decide, direct, co-ordinate and guide the various semi-independent parts and bind them into one homogeneous entity, so that by skilful pilotage, wise counsel, enthusiasm and intimate knowledge of human affairs the whole enterprise shall be conducted year by year with steadily increasing success. Those who have read the first portion of this history, and who have followed the growth of the business of Wm. H. 33 Horstmann Company and its gradual extension into the manufacture of lines of great diversity, will understand that the organization of to-day naturally divides the business into three principal parts or sections: The Manufacturing De- partment, known as Section D, and the two Selling Depart- ments, Sections A and B respectively. Section A markets the general line of products of Section D and, in addition, is a large importer of goods of foreign origin. It, in i turn, is divided into the following I departments : Columbia Yarns and Knit Goods; Columbia Cottons; Im- ported Small Wares; Embroidery [ Materials and Art Needlework ; Up- holstery and Limousine Trimmings. The 'Columbia' trademark is a valuable asset of this branch of the business, being recognized throughout the country as a guar- antee of both excellence of product and honest dealing. Section B has to do exclusively with the manufacture and sale of Military Equipments and Uniforms; Masonic and Secret So- ciety Goods ; Gold and Silver Trim- mings ; Flags, Banners, Church and Costumers' Materials. These serve to give but a hint of the immense variety of goods dealt in. This Section also is divided into sub- departments, under individual man- agement, including the important Contract Department. Commencing with the Mexican War the house has for three generations sup- plied goods to practically every Department of the National Government, and to-day enjoys an enviable reputation with all. The trademark of Section B is the 'Knight in Armor.' The head of the organization, a grandson of the founder, is Mr. Walter Horstmann, whose active service dates from the year 1876, and who has acted as President since 1894. 34 Mr. Horstmann exercises general control over all activities, cares for the banking and finances, and directs the general policy of the company. The Vice-President is Mr. Samuel Eckert, associated with the business since 1872, He is the administrative head of all the activities of Section 'A.' Mr. George Eiler, Jr., is the General Manager. He has been connected with the business since 1869, and is the administra- tive head over the various departments of Section 'B.' ADMINISTRATIVE SECTION Mr. Henry Freund, the Treasurer, has a long period of activity to his credit. He has been connected ^^dth the business since 1856. He supervises the departments of Credits and Accounting for both Sections 'A' and 'B.' The Secretary is Mr. Harry McManus, who has filled that position since the incorporation in 1893, and has been in the service of the house since 1871. Other directors of the Company are Mr. Edwin S. Dixon, whose term of office began in 1891, and Mr. Sidney Small, of Toronto, who was elected in 1908. In connection with general organization it is interesting to 35 note that there is a Managers' Association, formed of the active heads of all departments. The association has regular meetings, and its object is a free exchange of all ideas that tend to give the several departments a knowledge of each other's requirements, and so promote the working out of efficiency methods that are for the best interests of the whole business. The heads of the manufacturing departments also have a similar organization, with stated meetings, and their work, like that of the Managers' Association, is of great value in promoting scientific co-operation of all activities. The business of Wm. H. Horstmann Company employs over A NOON-DAY GATHERING IN THE RECREATION ROOM six hundred people, two hundred of whom are in the Clerical and Sales Departments. Separate staffs are maintained in the New York and Baltimore branches. The floor space occupied in the various buildings at Fifth and Cherry Streets is approximately four acres. Experience has always been of the utmost value in the conduct of human affairs, and in this connection the unusual terms of service of many of the employes is noteworthy. There are three who have been in active service for fifty years or more. Ten have served from forty to fifty years, twenty-one have periods of thirty to forty years to their credit, and there are thirty-five others whose period of 36 service is from twenty to thirty years. This makes a total of sixty-nine employes who have been with the Company for periods of twenty years and longer and who are still in active service. In addition to these there are several others who I have an active service record of from forty to nearly sixty i years. These, being on the pension list of Wm. H. Horstmann [ Company, are not included in the above. In addition to the general organization there are nmnerous ! associations that tend to promote efficiency, excellence of ^product, ideal conditions and general esprit de corps; some [account of them has a fitting place here. Agencies that THE LUNCH ROOM minister directly to the well-being and comfort of the working force include : The Wm. H. Horstmann Company Relief Asso- ciation, which provides for sick and death benefits and also renders assistance even to those who may not happen to be members ; a Recreation Room, where social entertainments, lectures and concerts are given weekly, under the auspices of the Y. W. C. A. ; a Restaurant, where well-prepared food is supplied at cost prices ; a Hospital Room fitted with all neces- sary appliances ; where first aid to the injured is given ; where also are treated those emergencies that arise where a large working force is employed. The motto, 'Safety First,' has a real meaning here, and 37 everything possible is done to safeguard from injury by a rigid system of housing the exposed parts of working ma- chinery and, in addition, every care is taken to inculcate habits of neatness, precision and order as necessary for safety. There is an Athletic Association ; Suggestion Boxes in which anyone may place a missive containing ideas calcu- lated to promote betterment of conditions ; a Bulletin Board for posting general notices of interest and there are ' Clean- ing Premiums' as reward for tidiness, neatness, order and punctuality. Then there are gifts of free membership of \ FIRST AID 4 the Franklin Institute for a certain number of deserving employes. There is also a Committee of Safety made up of the heads of the various manufacturing departments, with the superin- tendent as Chairman. It is the function of this committee to receive and make suggestions for eliminating accidents as much as is humanly possible. The importance of pro- tection against fire is fully realized by all, and a wonderful degree of efficiency has been gained by a systematic study of the whole problem. In addition to the Automatic Sprink- ling System, apparatus for emergency use is found through- out the whole establishment. There are also monthly fire drills in which all employes take their proper stations. The 38 1 ■■■%. Illalllll H ■■ JsassBttSS thorougli character of these precautions has been commented upon by State Officials in the highest terms, and the excellent record of getting 300 people out of one of the buildings in two minutes and a half is evidence both convincing and conclusive in character. Showing the care that is taken to build up ideal conditions and an environment adapted to bring forth the best that is in everyone, no better illustration could be given than to cite the monthly magazine, 'Chat/ conducted entirely by employes of the Company. This bright little serial is both pleasing and useful in char- acter, gives useful extracts relating to manufacturing and producing processes, and has many columns of educational value. With a purchasing branch in Paris, a manufacturing plant in Lyons, with home selling agencies in New^ York, Baltimore and Boston, and a force of travellers covering the whole country, the Company con- tinues the uninterrupted success and expansion that has followed the founding of the business one hundred years ago. The extent and scope of the general business carried on is one of great volume, to the grand total of which a large and rapidly increasing im- port trade contributes an important part. The wares of the Company are in demand in every State of the Union and in Canada. The catalog-ues of the firm show^ a diversity of ar- ticles manufactured and sold that covers a wide field. Eighty catalogues of various kinds of goods have been published in comparatively recent times; the numerous Secret Societies, for instance, requiring some forty catalogues to care for their special requirements. A useful series of instruction books is also published on such subjects as Knitting, Needlework, Embroidery and analogous lines, including the \vell-known Columbia Book of Yarns. B8 17 { Esnff' II... WP'W NEW YDHK SALESROOMS Fuurth Avenue and 18th Street 39 MAIN SALESROOMS, SECTION A Some idea of the extent and scope of the business trans- acted will be gained by walking through the various depart- ments, not here and there to select any one class of goods, but in the more logi- cal order of a building taken floor by floor. Before doing this it will be well on enter- ing the main build- ing through the door on Cherry Street to pause just within the threshold to gain some idea of the general plan of the interior. Standing by the doorkeeper 's desk, the view is both comprehensive and pleasing. Immediately to the right are the show cases for displaying military, naval and 40 OFFICE OF YARN DKI'AKTMKN r SALES DEPARTMENTS, SECTION B other wares of Section 'B,' and here are located what are known as the Military and Uniform Departments. Look- ing still farther to the right is the entrance to the other departments of Section B. The manufacturing departments belonging to this section are located in connecting buildings and a portion in the Main Manufacturing Building. Still standing at the entrance and looking directly north, the three stories of Section 'A' Warerooms are in clear view through the central open area that is carried up to the large skylight on the roof. As far as clear vision extends, an amazing variety of goods may be seen on the several floors. From the same post of observation near the door can be seen the private offices of the various executives, the telephone exchange and numerous desks belonging to the subordinate force assisting in the workings of this vast establishment. Passing farther in and taking the stair at the left, an entrance to the Mill or Manufacturing Building is gained, and using the elevator the tour of observation begins at the fifth floor. A room 60 x 100 feet is devoted to the manufacture of a great variety of cords and chenilles composed of silk, cotton and worsted to be used either as the finished product or in connection with further machine- or hand-work in the several departments of the mill. The hand-work on Upholstery Trimmings, consisting of fringes, loops, etc., as well as portieres, is done here. The remaining department on this floor, one of the busiest to be seen, is devoted to the skeining, boxing, labelling and packing of the vast line of mercerized knitting, crocheting and embroidery cotton threads, manufactured by the Company under the trade name of 'Columbia Cottons.' Every skein, ball and box is inspected and twice reinspected as it passes through the various processes. 42 I The Auditorium or Recreation Room for the use of the employes also occupies a portion of the fifth floor. MAKING UPHOLSTERY TRIMMINGS About one-half of the fourth floor is devoted to the balling machines, with upwards of four hundred spindles, on which PUTTING UP COLUMBIA COTTONS are measured, balled and labelled, the greater portion of the 'Columbia Cottons' referred to above. 43 BALLING COLUMBIA COTTONS MAKING FLAGS The balance of this floor is occupied by an enormous collec- tion of braid machines of almost infinite variety and by the Flag Department where the United States bunting flags and BRAIDING MACHINES SILK THKOWING those of all other nations are made and where modern machinery has entirely taken the place of hand-work. 45 Rows of power-driven sewing machines, many of them of the double-needle type, extend the length of the room, and there are also machines for cutting the various size stars and stripes for the United States Flags and machines for folding the edges of the stars with absolute accuracy and symmetry. In a large room on the third floor is carried on the process known as 'Silk Throwing.' Eaw silk, mostly from China, is received in compressed bales, and is first soaked in warm water and pure olive oil soap to remove the sur- LIMOUSIXK TIUMMINGS 4 plus gum, so that the individual threads can be separated. It is then placed on reels and the single thread is automatically spooled, after which it is doubled, that is, several threads are drawn from as many spools and laid side by side on a single spool, the number of threads being governed by the kind of finished silk to be produced, such as floss, sewings, etc. The final process consists in spinning or twisting the threads. The product is now sent to the store-rooms to be drawn as wanted upon requisition from the various departments of the mill. Also on this floor are upwards of sixty most ingenious power looms used in the production of a kind of narrow textile fabric known as Coach Lace but now used almost exclusively in trimming limousine automobile bodies. A TYPICAL MODERN" JACQUARD RIBBON LOOM The second floor is entirely given up to Power Loom Weav- ing. Over forty huge looms, ranging to twenty-five feet in length, mostly with Jacquard attachments and many with two, three and four banks of shuttles, form the equipment of this department and the variety of output is almost endless, including Upholstery, Military and Church Trimmings. An important item of the production of this department is the 47 weaving of lettered cap bands of real gold thread and pure silk for the United States Navy. Fancy Goods manufacturing occupies the larger portion of the first floor. Here fancy work of all kinds is designed and laid out, stamping and stencilling being carried on ex- tensively and patterns cut for all kinds of lingerie, infants' wear, luncheon sets, table covers, doilies, cushions, pillow cases and similar work. Many designs of artistic character have been developed, and new ones are constantly being AN UP-TO-DATE BINDING LOOM added. In this department the large and steadily increasing demand for package goods is cared for, and new articles of manufacture are always being added to the already large catalogue. A corps of industrious women is kept constantly busy in running a whole battery of power sewing machines, not the ordinary domestic machines, but those of special con- struction adapted to perform many diverse functions that call for skill and intelligence in use. MAKING STAMPED GOODS On this same floor is the Stock Eoom where the materials are stored to be sent on requisition to the various departments throughout the mill. This material is all on spools, the bulk stock being stored in the basement directly underneath. The basement is principally devoted to the Spooling, Reel- ing, Twisting and Packing of the famous Columbia Yarns. REELING AND PACKING COLUMBIA YARNS Here the yarn is put through the various processes, until it finally reaches the carton state, each skein in its individual wrapper of white tissue, so familiar to dealers in Art Needle- work Materials all over the United States. The remaining manufacturing departments are those grouped as part of Section 'B,' being the Military, Naval, Masonic and Secret Society branch of the general business. The Metal Shop has its own special machinery, and has ample brazing facilities together with its own polishing and SWORD AND METAL WORKERS plating plant with provision for plating in various metals. Army and Navy swords of all kinds are made, as well as those for secret society work and for fencing and stage use ; crowns, sceptres and daggers are also made. The metal guards of ornamental design are cast, ground, polished and plated, and have the blades accurately fitted with the care such work demands ; the scabbards, metal fittings for swords, belts and all the other numerous metal parts needed in mili- tary accoutrements are manufactured here. Some idea of the immense variety of these is gained by an examination of 50 the hundred and one metal parts that are stored in racks ready for hand and machine operation. Wood-working is carried on in another part of the same building-, and here flag-staffs, flag and banner poles are made, as well as all kinds of lodge furniture. Mention should also be made of a completely equipped Machine Shop for the building of new and especially designed machinery and for making the countless changes and repairs incidental to manufacturing. \S UOD-WORKING SHOP The Uniform Department is housed in a separate building at the Race Street end of the plant and is completely equipped with all the most recent labor-saving devices. Here the cloth, as it comes from the mills, can be seen going through the various processes of manufacture to the finished garment ready to wear. The Leather Department of Section 'B' is in still another building, and here a very extensive manufacture of leather goods is carried on. Leggings, leg protectors for foundry metal-workers, service belts, horse equipment, such as saddles. 51 bridles and guards; sword scabbards and cases; chapeau, epaulette and belt cases ; suit cases and leather containers of all kinds ; bugle straps, flag belts, music pouches, helmets and hats for military, firemen and secret society use, with sandals and many other articles are here to be seen. The Regalia Manufacturing Room is another extremely busy centre, and one full of interest because of the variety of the articles found there. All sorts of Robes and Garments, from the very plain to the most elaborate, for use in the MANUFACTURING REGALIA various rituals of Masonic and Secret Society work, are made. Banners of all kinds for Churches, Schools and Colleges in various stages of work are seen here. Many power sewing machines are used and considerable hand sewing is also required. In the Embroidery Department the work is entirely done by hand and the work is of such a nature that it requires highly skilled labor. Various designs may be seen worked with gold and silver bullion ; this is cut to the desired length before threading it with the needle and it is gradually worked 52 into the design piece by piece. The workers are seated at the long embroidery frames busy on the various devices repre- senting the different ranks and branches of service of the Army and Navy. Emblems for Regalia, Templar Crosses, Centres for Banners are seen in great variety. After reading of all these activities it must be apparent that the handling, packing and shipping is no light task ; and with such a multitude of wares a system, perfect in all its details, is the only one that could meet the exigency of the HAND EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT case. It is a business that calls for careful accounting in all departments, and particularly so in the busy main channels through which the whole output is constantly flowing. The Charging Department has excellent and well-proved facilities, and a system that has been developed and worked out by long experience. Order is its mainspring, and all its parts work smoothly in accurate inter-relation. It has its own office and clerical staff to care for its departmental details. Closely linked with the foregoing is the Packing Depart- ment. There are separate divisions for railroad freight. 53 steamboat and express. In addition there is a Parcel Post Division for sending out small packages. There are various offices in connection with the conduct of routine clerical duties in the different departments; also other offices that have one definite function in connection with some specific detail, such as receiving, tracing, invoicing, etc., and still others that are almost general, and not departmental, that carry on certain lines of administrative work connected ACCOUNTING DEPARTMENT with all departments ; but these are all tributary to the gen- eral or administrative offices, and in some form or other their transactions must finally pass through the clearing house that is known as the Counting Room. This, with the closely-allied Credit Department, is the financial and accounting heart of the whole system, the citadel of mercantile activity, the channel through which the whole volume of business must flow ; the same attention to system and order so noticeable in all the departments is accentuated here. 54 Looking back one hundred years, the contrast is almost overwhelming. No railroads, no steamships, no electric cars, no automobiles, no illuminating gas, no electric light, no type- writer, no telegraph, no telephone ! All these blessings, and more, have come in the century that began with Waterloo. The department of business administration naturally reflects this advancement in life 's activities, and ingenious men have provided facilities of every kind as an aid to the dispatch of the business of to-day. In this connection it is not too much to state that only by the use of these labor-saving devices could the great extent and complexity of modern business be mastered. In presenting their friends with this volume in commem- oration of The Centennial Year of the business of Wm. H. Horstmann Company, the Directors desire to express their sincere appreciation of all the pleasant relations of the past. The second part, giving the history of the business of to-day, is, as near as it is possible to make it so, an accurate description. All the illustrations are reproductions of photographs recently taken, and show conditions as they actually are to-day. It affords the Directors pleasure and satisfaction to greet their business and personal friends with the wish that the coming years may bring happiness and prosperity to all. THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST I STAMPED BELOW. Series 9482