:NIiGiVRA TMU SARATOGA. 18 H /^^-$it€^ ^ i ■m I .*i> MAP OF N I \ G \ R \ F V L L S , V\D C I IDE 1 Vri L Cr tonplelc D rtflon anl Cu If lo Ihc Fill ud \ fii il) for rrinrk o lie sp I or (nr rttcrtiifc REFEBIiM'ESTIITIIfiinP. ( TRAVELLERS' 0¥N BOOK, TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA, CONTAINING ROUTES, DISTANCES, CONVEYANCES, EXPENSES, CSE OK MINERAL WATERS, BATHS, DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY, ETC. A COMPLETE GUIDE, FOR THE VALKTCDINARIAN AND FOR TIIH TOURIST, SEEKING FOR PLEASURE AND A.MUSLMENT. WITH MAPS AND ENGRAVING S. BY S. DE VEAUX. And slill thou dashest in thunder down \Vilh a silver robe and a rainbow crown. BUFFALO: FAXON & READ. 1841 3^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year eighteen hundred and forty-one, by FAXON & READ, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Norlhern District of New-Yorlc. PRESS OP ROBT. D. FOY. TO THE PUBLIC. A former publication of the author on the Falls of Niagara, having been very favorably received, he has been induced to combine with it another subject, aliko interesting to the travelling community. He has cur- tailed and revised his book on the Falls, and added several subjects and incidents, of late occurrence. As travellers move along, it is a satisfaction to be- come acquainted with the names of places — to have before them some notice or remark upon them, without the trouble of inquiry; and when arrived at the spot to which the tourist had directed his course, a directory at hand, as this book is intended to be, to point out to him the object he seeks to obtain, or the scenes of in- terest he came to view, will prove to him a valuable desi- deratum. On the subject of the mineral waters of Saratoga, much valuable information, as to their qualities, use, and effects, has been derived from highly respectable citizens of that place. IV. To visitors to the Springs, who generally have but little leisure to look over medical authorities, and but small chance of gaming correct information from personal in- quiry of individuals into whose company they happen to fall, this compendium will prove very useful, in its cautions and directions as to the use of the waters. Those who wish to investigate further, will find in these pages references to some of the most approved writers on these subjects. As not unfitting to this work, the author has thought proper in many places, to introduce some subjects, alone interesting from their locality — incidents of border war- fare — and descriptions peculiar to the two great points of attraction of which he treats. The author flatters himself t'lat his publication will not only perform the office of a useful and faithful guide to travellers while on their tour, but that it will also prove an agreeable presont to friends and children, when they return refreshed to their homes. THE AUTHOR. Niagara Falls, May, 1841. CONTENTS PART I. page TooR TO Saratoga Springs, Niagara Falls and Canada. Estimate of K.vpcnses 14 The tour lieg:un 18 Hud=ori river scenery 19 Yonkers. T!ipp:;ii. e'c 20 3Iount Pleasant, Sinjr Sine, et- 21 The Highlands. West Point, e;c 22 Pougiily Auhurn, etc 39 City of Buffiilo, and distances from thence on the Lakes. . . 41 Routes from Niagara Falls through Canada 42 Brantford. Toronto, etc 44 Sacket's Harhor. Kingston, etc 45 Montreal, Quebec, etc 47 Route from Albany to Boston 49 PART II. Jaunt to Saratoga Springs. Arrival at the Springs 53 Visit to (;on2ress Spring 54 Hamilton, Putnam and the Pavilion Springs 56 Analvsis of the waters 57 Flat Rock, and Monroe Springs 58 Hisfh Rock Spring 59 Ballston Spa 63 Observations on mineral waters 64 VI. paee Their use as a drink, and medicinally 06 " " in tlie bath, and batliing 68 The cold balh "JO The tepid and warm bath 74 The vapor bath 78 Diseases for wliich the Saratoga waters are recommended. . 8'i The villiige of Saratoga 87 Public Houses 90 Amusements 9L Covent Garden, gambling, etc 92 Rides, balls, and assemblies 93 Churches 94 PART in. The Falls of Niagara, Whirlpool, Islands, 120 Road down the bank 127 Point View 130 Village of Niagara Falls 132 Rides of pleasure 134 Jaunt to Iris and other islands 139 The bridge to the island 142 Bath island 145 A daring enterprise 146 Prospect island 149 Ingraham's Cave 150 The Biid'e staircase 151 Horse Shoe Falls 152 Prospect Tower 153 Impressions of visitors 154 Winter scenery 156 Shrubs and pi "nts 158 Vessels sent over the Falls , 159 Moss island 161 The Low Family :163 William Chambers 165 Expedition to Navy island, and steamboat Caroline 167 Owanunga, or Grand island 170 Jaunt to the Whirlpool 177 Gad Pierce. Esq 179 Mineral Sprins 181 Description of the Whirlpool 182 Benjamin Raihbun 195 VII. Battle of the Devil's Hole -icTl Tuscarora Indians 204 Little Chief -205 Indian adventure 207 Esi-npe from Indians 209 Lewiston 211 Five mile meadow 213 Fort Niagara 214 William Morgan 217 John Carroll 218 Jaunt to Canapa 221 View from the stairs 223 Perilous descent of the ladder 22.) Catlin's Cave 22rt Villairc of Clifton 22,S Tabic Rock 230 Passing under the siicet of water 231 Going over the Falls 234 Canal hoat inL-idcnt 23G Samuel Slreet. Col. Clark 239 City of the Falls 241 Drumniondville 242 Brock's [Monument 243 Town of Niagara 24(> MlSCEF.I.ANKOt''* NoTirFS. Medicinal vi-^tu^s of t lie air 247 Geology of Niagara Falls 24S John Downing and the Whirlpool 249 Death of Dr. Hungerford 250 A2 Chrono'ogical tal)lc of events at Niagara Falls 2.)7 Distances 25S Note. — The following eheels having been prepared during the past winter, the rates of fare are inserted as es- tablished last season. On the following routes they have this year been reduced, and are now as follows: New- York to Albany, by steamboat, ^1,00, board extra. Syracuse to Rochester, by packets, $3,00, and found. Rochester to Lockport, " $2,00 " " «' to Buffalo, " ^2,75, " " ERRATA. Page 38, 9th hne, for '' 63," read " 87." '♦ 45, 2d " for "from," read "to," and for "of," read " on." *• 73, 30th line, for " intemperance," read "temper- ance." "■ 78, 23d line, for "wary," read " wavey." " 86, 26th line, for " fount," read " forest." " 126, 14th hne, for "some kind," read " the same kinds." " 188, 9th line, for " bridge," read " lodge." " 196, 16th line, for " to calling," read "to the call- ing." PART I THE TOURIST. CONTAINING HINTS TO TRAVELLERS, ROUTES, DISTANCES, COxNVEYANCES, EXPENSES, DESCRIPTION OF SCENERY, &c. &c. TO TRAVELLERS. ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES, AXD OTHER HINTS. " Put money in thy purse." In concluding upon a tour of business, of pleasure, or of health to Saratoga Springs, to the Falls of Niagara, or to both of these places, among other calculations and arrangements it is customary to make some suitable pro- vision for the expenses, to consider the modes of con- veyance, to count over the distances, and to know the leiigth of time that the journey v^all require. Money. — This potent talisman, this charm more pow- erful than the sorcerer's wand, must be the first object of the traveller's attention. A sufficient amount must be appropriated ; select such a stock of bank bills as will go currently through the country you intend to pass. In the State of New- York, Safety Fund and the General Bank bills, which on the Bank Note List stand at no higher discount than 2 per cent, will answer to pay expenses. Upper Canada bills in the Upper Province, and Lower Canada bills in the Lower, will do the best. Let your bills be a mixture of small and large, that you may 2 14 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Bajrgagc — Choice of Berths. always be supplied with change. It will be bad policy to carry with you foreign, uncurrent, or doubtful bills, unless you are disposed to quarrel with all to w^hom you pay money, and to pass as a suspicious character. Keep a few dollars in your wallet for present use, and the'resi- due of your money in some secure place about your person. Baggage. — Let it be as compact, and in as small a compass as possible. Have your trunks firmly made and well strapped, and painted on them your initials, or full name, with place of residence, in fair white characters. If you travel alone, a simple valise or cloak bag only, will cause you to feel very independent. The company of ladies will greatly increase your baggage; not only band- boxes will be added, but one or two large trunks for every lady. Never carry with you what is superfluous, but just what is sufficient. A cloak, or over-coat, should not be omitted. Paul Pry's indispensable, an umbrella, can be purchased any where on your route; and almost every other small article that you may require. Put up no pills, and take no medicine while travelling. Stop when you consider medicine necessary. Never lose sight of your baggage unless it is locked up. Steam-Boats. — Always engage your passage as soon as you can. The farther your berth is from the boilers the more safe and pleasant it will be. If you come on board late and should not like the remaining berths, or a settee, insist upon having one of the reserved berths. When you go at an early hour on board of a steamboat, and find a long list of names in the same hand writing, apparently engaging all the best berths of the boat, such as "Mr. Dram," "Mr. Lane," and "ditto," "ditto," NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 15 Railroad Cars — Packet Boats. or some similar device, you may be sure that it is ficti- tious. This is an every day practice; and in this way acquaintances and favorites enjoy the best berths, and the uninitiated traveller has to put up with what he can get. Railroad Cars. — The cars from the engine to the centre have the least motion, and are considered the easiest, and those in the rear the safest. But in these, or in other respects, upon railroads, there is little choice. Very little advice can be given as to avoiding accidents. Do not suffer yourself to sleep in the cars; take your seats before the cars start, and do not get out until they have stopped. Always ascertain the hour of starting and be on the ground a few minutes before. Ever have your eyes around you, and keep out of harm's way. Never ride upon railroads in the night, unless it is really neces- sary that you should hasten your journey. Railroad travelling at night is very uncomfortable, and is attended with more danger than during the day. Packet Boats. — Enter your name as soon as you get on board, that you may have a berth if you should remain over night. Do not put your head out of the cabin win- dows; keep below as much as practicable, and when on deck look ahead for the bridges, and before passing them come down on the lower after deck. For the feeble, and those who are worn out with fatigue, the canal boat af- fords the best accommodations. It glides along so quietly that you can repose and slumber as undisturbedly as in your own chamber. Stage Coaches. — Of these old fashioned conveyances little need be said. Ladies are always accommodated with the back seat. The middle seat is the easiest, the 16 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Fare — Price of board. front seat the best to sleep on; but if you are subject to sickness when riding, always avoid it. Post coaches, if not crowded with too many passengers, over good roads, in fair weather, afford the most safe and agreeable mode of transit of any other; but the fly-away character of travellers is fast driving them out of use. From these vehicles the scenery of the country can always be advan- tageously viewed; and as the wheels roll on, the hours pass in social chat, free remark, amusing anecdotes and gay sallies, often truly pleasant and interesting. Newspapers. — On leaving a city, or other place of importance, before the boat or cars move off, buy the latest and most interesting papers. . On meeting another boat, or train of cars, have some papers ready to exchange. In this w^ay, as you will generally travel in advance of the mail, you will ever find yourself iu possession of the latest news. On board of boats and at public houses leave papers, but abstract none. Destroying and stealing news- papers is not an original Yankee practice. That Vandal- ism, with others of a like nature, should be frowned down. From New-York to Saratoga, via Albany and Troy, the highest rate of fare usually charged is $4,75. The lowest rate will amount to very little more than half that sum. By the v/ay of Schenectady it may cost $5. The traveller may leave New- York in the afternoon steamboat, and be in Saratoga the next day before dinner; and if he pleases may be back again in New- York the succeeding morning, having accomplished his visit in 36 hours. Without reference to baggage and superfluities, $5,75 NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 17 Different Routes, and cost. is an ample sum to pay all necessary expenses from New- York to Saratoga. At Saratoga the price of board per week is from ^10 to $12, at the best hotels; and per day from $1,50 to $2. The other public houses charge from $4 to $7 per week; and from $1 to $1,25 per day. Private boarding houses, of which there are a great number, charge from $3 to $12 per week. Of other expenses at the Springs, it is unnecessary to speak; they may be moderate or extravagant, according to the notions or character of the individual. As the pri- ces of provisions have fallen, the cost of living to travel- lers, it is expected, will be reduced. From the city of New- York to Niagara Falls, or to the city of Buffalo, to the ordinary traveller or tourist, the usual expense, when the journey is performed direct, by steamboats, railroads, stages and packets, will be between $20 and $22, and will include all that is respectable and necessary. Three days is as short a time as should be allowed for the journey. Those who are interested in different routes advertise a shorter period, but it is very seldom done in less than three days, and is frequently more. Travelling even at such a rate, is often more faH.iguing than pleasant. The expenses of living at Niagara Falls, and Buflalo, varies but little from the like expenses at Saratoga, ex- cepting at some of the most fashionable Hotels; and those being equal to similar establishments in New- York city, are not backward in imitating them in their bills; bank note paper, beautiful vignette, copy hand, round numbers. There is an economical mode of conveyance that it may 2* 18 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Steamboats from A'ew-Vork. be interesting for emigrants and those travellers wlio study economy more than speed, to know: it is by the steam tow boats on the Hudson river, and freight boats on the canal. By one line the passenger is carried through from New- York to Buffalo in six days, with board, for $11, and without board for $7,50. On another line he is carried through in seven days, without board, for $6,50. On board of the freight boats the passage per mile, is IJ cent, and 2 cents with board. The fare on board of the packet boats, with board, is usually 4 cents per mile. THE TOUR BEGUN. " Land of the forest and tlie rock— Of dark blue lake and mighty river ; Of mountains rear'd aloft to mock The storm's career, tlie lightning's shock — My own green laud forever 1 Land of the beautiful and brave, The freeman's home, tlie martyr's grave." Much of the information that follows has been obtained from actual observation and experience; the residue has been gathered from, and collated with the best autho- rities. The usual mode of conveyance to Albany is by steam- boats. Several pass and re- pass every day. The passen- NIAGARA PALL8 AND CANADA. 19 AVeehawken — Bull's Ferry. ger boats start in New- York from the foot of Courtland street, and from the foot of Barclay street. In Albany they start from the pier at the foot of State street, and at the foot of Hamilton street. The day boats go at 6 o'clock in the morning, and the night boats at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. The fare through is commonly $3, meals extra, 50 cents. Competition sometimes carries the fare down to 50 cents. Besides the passenger boats there are also several freight or tow boats, which pass daily between the two cities. Their price is $1 for passage, and meals extra, or the passenger finds himself. To those who have never been up the Hudson, a day passage is recommended. Always to sleep in passing over this noblest of rivers, and to loose the view of the varie- gated scenery along its banks, evinces an unpardonable apathy to the beauties of nature and the improvements of man. Wechawken, New-Jersey, 3 miles from New- York, and 145 from Albany, on the west side of the river — it commands a fme view of the city. The range of rocks called the Palisadocs, begin to make their ap- pearance here, and continue 22 miles. The Monument where Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with Aaron Burr, is observed near the water's edge. In former days when duelling was more practiced by the citizens of New- York than it happily is at present, this spot was the cho- sen place for settling points of honor. Bull's Ferry, west side, New-Jersey, is 10 miles from New- York, and 138 from Albany. Near this place the Palisadoes begin to assume a perpendicular attitude of from 3 to 400 feet. 20 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Fort Lee — Yonkers — Pierpoiit. Fort Lee, 11 miles from New- York, and 137 from Al- bany, on the brow of the Palieadoes, 300 feet from the water. Opposite, on York Island, are the vestiges of Fort Washington. In the Revolution, a sunken chevaux de frise extended from one side of the river to the other. Yonkers, or Phiilipsburgh, east side, Westchester co. N. Y. is 16 miles from New- York, and 132 from Albany. The spire of the church, and a mere glimpse of the vil- lage is obtained as the steamboat passes hastily along. Here still stands the substantial old mansion house of the Phillips family, once the head of Phillips' manor; and a venerable English church, still occupied by an Episcopal congregation, many of them the descendants of the first settlers. A fine mill stream puts into the Hudson. The formation of the ground, and the large fruit and shade trees that cluster around, make this a beautiful place. Between this and the city of New- York, the river on the east side, with the exception of some rough and rocky heights, is lined with highly cultivated farms and splen- did country seats. Tappan, west side, Rockland co. N. Y. is 23 miles from New- York, and 125 from Albany. From hence to its source, the whole course of the Hudson is through the State of New- York. Tappan village is hid from view. Pierpont, west side, Rockland co. N. Y. is 25 miles from New- York, and 123 from Albany. The great southern railroad, which is to extend to Lake Erie, commences at this place. Here the river expands to three miles in width and used to be called Tappan sea; it NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 21 teing Sing Prisoii — Anthony's Nose, is now less dignified, and is only termed Tappan bay. Not far from this village, Major Andre was executed. Tarrytown, east side, 26 miles from New- York, and 122 from Albany — Noted as the place where Major An- dre was captured. Above Tarrytown, and extending to Sing Sing, there rises from the shore on the east side, Mount Pleasant, a commanding and delightful tract, presenting from the river a most beautiful prospect of rural scenery. Sing Sing, east side, Westchester co. 32 miles from New- York, and 116 from Albany, is the location of one of the New- York State Prisons. It was built by the convicts from the marble got from the premises. The Croton Acqueduct, which is to supply the city of New- York with water, commences near this place. Havcrslraw, west side, Rockland co. 38 miles from New- York, and 110 from Albany. The river in front is called Haverstraw bay. Further up the river, in this township, are vestiges of Stony Point, and Forts Clin- ton and Montgomery, famous in the events of the Rev- olution. Croton, east side, Westchester co. Cortland, *' " Peekekill, east side, Westchester co. 44 miles from New York, and 104 from Albany. The last mentioned village is a thriving place. Ver- planck's Point is in the same township, upon which once stood Fort Fayette, now scarcely discernable. Anthony's Nose, on the east side, 44 miles from New- York, and 104 from Albany, a high bluff of 1128 feet. In former days, before steamboats abolished time and 22 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, "West Point — Military Academy. space in travelling, the passing of the nose was to the navigators of the Hudson, what crossing the line is to sailors on the ocean; the novice was obliged to pay a forfeit, which was devoted to the increase of red noses. It is not contended by those who have seen this promon- tory that it has any gi*eat resemblance to a nose. The river narrows in passing through the Highlands, which extends nearly 12 miles, presenting on each side noble and picturesque scenes; high acclivities, sloping heights, and deep ravines, advance and recede before the spectator as the boat drives along. West Point, west side. Orange co. Fort Putnam, 53 miles from New- York, and 95 from Albany. At this memorable place in the Revolution, there was a chain stretched across the river, intended to cut off the nav- igation from below; but the British in 1777, succeeded in removing it, and passed up the river as far as the village of Kingston, which they mercilessly burnt. The Military Academy was established here in 1802. 250 students are only admitted. The sons of revolutionary officers have the first claim; those of deceased officers of the last war the second. Pupils are only admitted be- tween the ages of 14 and 22. There are 30 Professors. A cadet costs the government $336 annually. The period of study is 4 years. They encamp 6 or 8 weeks each year. A well kept hotel is established at West Point, for the accommodation of visitors. It may be justly observed as respects the Military Academy — its operation is, on one hand, to make scien- tific and patrician officers, and on the other degraded and plebian soldiers. For republicans, the present military NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 23 31ilkary Aciideiny. syeteni is a bad one, altogether incompatible with the principles of democracy; principles so dearly cherished by all parties of the American people. At present, the sol- dier, however meritorious he may be, is cut of from all chance of promotion, and all appointments to office are made by the grace and favor of the rich and influential. It is not denied but that the present officers of the army are highly respectable; equally true it is, that the private soldiers are in the very lowest state. In so low an esti- mation is the army held, that it is with the utmost diffi- culty recruits are obtained to fill the ranks of the present small establishment. Do away with favoritism; let the government make every fort and garrison a military school; allow of no promotion except from the ranks: "He that would command, must first learn to serve;" and the profession would soon become honorable. There would be no need of increasing the pay, of giving bounties, or of drumming up for recruits in the present vulgar way, at taverns and grog shops. A five years term of service would be but a course of education mixed with military duties. Study, and the pursuits of useful knowledge, would take the place of idleness and dissipation; and the army, instead of being shunned as the last resource of the most degraded, would soon be filled with the elite of the brave and youthful of the country. Such a system would not only be novel, but great and exalting. A national army, composed of the youth of the land, emulating each other in the studies to fit them for the double capacity of citizens and soldiers; forming at all times a powerful body of men, to meet the exigencies of war; or in peace, to maintain the supremacy of the laws and the integrity of the Union. 24 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Cold Spring — Newburgli. Cold Spring, east side, Putnam co. 53 miles from New- York, and 95 from Albany. The West Point Foun- dry is at this village. Of the hills in this part of the highlands, Crow's Nest, on the west side, is a high peak. Butter Hill, is the last of the range of mounts on the west side. It is 1589 feet high. Bull Hill, on the east side, is 1486 feet. Break-neck Hill, on the east side. On a part of the rock on the south side, there is a fancied resemblance to the human countenance. It is called the Turk's face. New Windsor, on the west side. Near this village there still stands a house in which General Washington resided with his family nearly all the winter of 1774. Newburgh, west side, 62 miles from New- York, and 86 from Albany. It is the half-shire town of Orange CO. A fine stream of water spreads over this township, and affords many mill privileges. The farmers are wealthy — great enterprise is the distinguishing trait of the citizens of Newburgh. Many roads concentrate at this place, and much business is done. Large quantities of butter, and of the finest quality, are here shipped for the New- York market. The place has a fine appearance from the river. Passengers to the southern tier of coun- ties frequently disembark here, and take the Ithaca stage, which runs daily. Fishkill Landing, east side, Dutchess co. 62 miles from New-Yofk, and 86 from Albany. It is nearly opposite Newburgh, and is 5 miles from Fishkill village. The Matteawan Cotton Factory at this place, gives employ- ment to 300 persons. New Hamburgh, east side, Dutchess co. 67 miles NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 25 Poughkeepsie — Hyde Park. from New- York, and 81 from Albany. This is an active little village, with a good landing, store-houses, draw- bridge, and other improvements indicative of prosperity. Milton, west side, Ulster co. 68 miles from New- York, and 80 miles from Albany. The inhabitants are princi- pally descendants of English famiUea settled here at an early period. New Paltz, west side, Ulster co. 70 miles from New- York, and 78 from Albany. This is a well improved portion of country. The farms are good and well cul- tivated. The ijihabitants are of Dutch descent; their ancestors settled here as long ago as 1670. Substantial stone houses indicate the foresight and good condition of the citizens. Poughkeepsie, east side, 76 miles from New- York, and 72 from Albany. It is the county town of Dutchess. The principal portion of the village is hid from the river. The streets are neatly laid out, and shaded with ornamental trees. A fine creek with many mill privile- ges, nm along the north part of the village, affording many first rate sites for manufactories: several of which are already in successful operation. Poughkeepsie stands among the foremost river towns in the extent of its bu- siness, and wealth of its inhabitants. Hyde Park, east side, Dutchess co. 82 miles from New- York, and 66 from Albany. The village of Hyde Park is near the centre of the township, but there are several landing places on the river. It is a beautiful township of land, and noted as being the residence of se- veral gentlemen of eminence, wealth and taste. Rhinebeck, east side, Dutchess co. 90 miles from New- 3 26 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Kingston — Catskill MounUiins. York, and 58 from Albany. It was settled by Germane at an early day. Many of the inhabitants are tenants to large proprietors, but the great estates are frittering away, and the number of freeholders are gradually in- creasing. Kingston, west side, Ulster co. 90 miles from New- York, and 58 from Albany. It is the county seat, and lies three miles west of the Hudson from Kingston Lan- ding, which is opposite to Rhinebeck. Before it was burnt by the British in 1777, it was called Esopus. It was settled by the Dutch, in 1616. On the south bounds of the township of Kingston, Walkill creek passes into the Rondout, which here enters the Hudson. One mile from the river is the termination of the Delaware and Hudson canal. Lower Red Hook Landing, east side, Dutchess co. is 96 miles from New- York, and 52 from Albany. — There is an Upper Landing of this name, and a Post- Office at each. The township is wealthy, and among its inhabitants are some of the oldest and most considerable names of the State. Several branches of the Livingston family reside here, and their seats are distinguished by choice of location and elegance of structure. Saugerties, west side, Ulster co. 103 miles from New- York, and 45 from Albany. The village is a mile west of the Landing. Catskill, west side, Greene co. 112 miles from New- York, and 36 from Albany. A line of stages run from here to Ithaca, as well as from Newburgh. Passengers intending to visit the Pine Orchard, which is distant about 9 miles from the Hudson, and is elevated 3000 feet NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 27 Hudson — Athens — Overslaugh. above tide water, disembark at this place. The Moun- tain House, and the majestic scenery of the Catskill Mountains, are much frequented by travellers. The city of Hudson, east side, 119 miles from New- York, and 29 from Albany, is the capital of Columbia county. Considerable foreign commerce is carried on from this city, and especially the whaling business has been prosecuted with much energy. Those who visit Lebanon Springs, and the Shaker's village, debark here, and take the Hudeon and Berkshire railroad, which runs through Lebanon, and conveys passengers to the Springe for ^1,62^. The water of these Springs is at the imiform temperature of 72° Fahrenheit. It is agitated by a con- stant emission of nitrogen and azotic gas, and the place is becoming one of considerable resort. Athens, 119 miles from New- York, and 29 from Alba- dy, lies opposite Hudson, in Greene co. It is incorpora- ted, and the village rises pleasantly from the river. Here is the close of ship navigation. Coxsackie, west side, Greene co. 127 miles from New- York, and 21 from Albany. Kinderhook Landing, east side, Columbia co. 132 miles from New- York, and 16 from Albany. New Baltimore, west side, Greene co. 134 miles from New- York, and 14 from Albany. Coeymans, west side, Albany co. 137 miles from New- York, and 11 from Albany. Schodack Landing, Rensselaer co. 138 miles from New- York, and 10 from Albany. The Overslaugh, 145 miles from New- York, and 3 from Albany, is a shallow and difficult part of the river, 28 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, City of Albany. where vessels are often grounded, and the larger class of steamboats are occasionally obliged to stop, and have their passengers conveyed to the city by smaller boats. THE CITY OF ALBANY. " Go forth into the fields, Ye denizens of the pent city's mart ! Go forth and know the gladness nature yields To the care wearied heart." The capital of the State of New- York is in latitude 42° 39' 99" north. In magnitude and importance, it is the second city in the State. At Albany, travellers usually make such stay as their amusement, business or interest demands. Few leave the city by the first conveyance after their arrival. The ob- jects of interest about the city are first to be seen, some business is to be performed, or some new arrangements to be made for the further prosecution of their journey. As the tour to the Springs is not direct to the Falls of Ni- agara, the different routes will be here distinctly described to the traveller. During his stay at Albany, if he takes the subject into consideration, by having the necessaiy in- formation before him, he will be better enabled to make up his mind as to his future progress. NIACARA FALLS AND CANADA. 29 Schenectady — Ballston Spa. PvOI TE TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, FROM ALBANY, VIA SCHENECTADY. The railroad office for Schenectady and western coun- try, and for Saratoga, will be readily found, at the upper end of State street, on the right side, a short distance be- fore reaching the capitol. The fare, usually $2, to Sara- toga, is paid at this office. The city of Schenectady, 16 miles from Albany and 22 from Saratoga, is the capital of the county of the same name — it lies by the side of the Mohawk river, which bounds it on the west. It is an old place, and in its early day the inhabitants suffered severely from the incursions of the savages. The Erie canal passes through Schenec- tady, and it is a great thoroughfare for travellers, but their stay here is very short, the greatest number having barely time to pass from one set of cars to another. On leaving Schenectady, the cars pass over a fine rail- road bridge, and then turn in a northern direction. Ballston Spa, 31 miles from Albany, and 7 from Sara- toga, is the county seat of Saratoga county. It is a place of considerable importance, and it is evident that there has been no lack of enterj^ise on the part of the inhabitants, yet it is equally plain that it is not now advancing. The med- ical Springs at this place once stood in the highest estima- tion; the visiting community gathered round them, and the public houses were crowded. The »S'a7is Soiici, a very large and spacious hotel, was erected; but Saratoga lin3 grown into popularity, and Ballston has been measura- bly deserted. Still however, in the summer season, it has 3^ 30 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, AVatervliet— Troy a share of the business; many boarders sojourn at the public houses, and the visitors are constantly passing from one village to the other. The fare on the railroad between these two places, is 37| cents. Passing from Ballston, the 7 miles are soon run over, and the traveller is landed at Saratoga, 38 miles from Al- bany. ROUTE TO SARATOGA SPRINGS FROM ALBANY, VIA TROY. A steamboat generally runs hourly back and forth from Albany to Troy; the fare is usually 12^ cents. Stages run every half hour — they will take you up at the pubhc hou- ses, and put you down in any place you direct. The fare is 25 cents. Watervliet, or West Troy, on the west side of the Hud- son, 5 miles from Albany, and 34 from Saratoga, is a smart and growing village. A United States Arsenal, of considerable magnitude, is maintained at this place. The city of Troy, on the east side of the river, 6 miles from Albany, and 33 from Saratoga, is the county seat of Rensselaer. The river is here about 900 feet wide, and the tides of the ocean are perceptible in a slight rise and fall of the water. This Troy is hardly less famed than its great namesake of antiquity. It is distinguished for its rapid yet sure and stable growth, for the untiring enter- NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 31 Lansingburgh — Waterford. prise of its citizens, and for the stream of prosperity and opulence that pours in upon them. The traveller to the Springs here takes the railroad cars. The fare is $1,.50. Lansingburgh, on the east side of the Hudson, in Rens- selaer county, is 9 miles from Albany, and 30 from Sara- toga. It is seen from the cars, and is a flourishing place. Waterford, Saratoga county, on the west side of the Hudson, where it is intersected with the Mohawk river, is 10 miles from Albany, and 29 from Saratoga. It is a considerable place, and is the head of sloop navigation. The traveller is ready to inquire, how do all the cities and villages so near together from Albany to Waterford, continue not only to maintain their ground, but to improve and flourish in an unprecedented manner ? The only an- swer is that the country adjoining is rich, and the people industrious. IVIcchanicsville, a town in Saratoga county, is 21 miles from Albany, and 18 from Saratoga. A canal runs thro' the village. There is considerable water for hydraulic purposes, and a Cotton Factory has been for some years in operation. Ballston Spa, and from thence the route is the same for the next 7 miles, as on the first route from Schenectady. The whole fare on the route via Troy to Saratoga Springs, is from $1,62 to $1,75. If it is the intention of the traveller on leaving the Springs to go to Niagara Falls, he is advised to take the route to the Springs, by the way of Troy, and to leave them by the way of Schenectady. He will then be on his direct way to the West. In all cases the tourist is advi- sed to go to the Springs in one direction, and to return 32 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRIXGS, Remarks to Travellers. another: he will K'pe no time by so doing, and will see more of the country. There are an immense number of travellers constantly passing east and west through the cities of Albany and Schenectady, who have never l>een at the Springs, but would like to visit them. They have never troubled them- selves to ascertain how easy, and cheap, such a very desi- rable gratification is to be obtained. To go from Albany to Schenectady via Troy and Sara- toga Springs, costs the traveller for fare, ordy $2,25 more than to go direct to Schenectady. The same extra ex- pense occurs from Schenectady via Saratoga, &c. to Al- bany. Who that can afford it would for so small a sum forego the pleasure of a visit to the Springs? The time too, to the most hasty traveller, can be of little conse- quence; a single day, or a night and half a day, will suffice for a very hurried visit. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA FALLS. The railroad fare from Albany through to Utica is $3,75. The distance is 94 miles: and to Syracuse 147. After passing the uninteresting pine hills from Albany, the cars descend the inclined plane to the city of Schenec- tady, which is 16 miles from Albany, and 131 from Syra- cuse; they stop in the spacious depot in that place, and the passengers change their seats to the cars that carry them through to Utica. NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 83 Amsterdam — Fonda — Rockton. The ride through the valley of the Mohawk is extremely pleasant. Many villages are passed, some of them memo- rable for revolutionary events; others are just springing into existence, and are distinguished by their new and fresh appearance. Amsterdam, Montgomery coimty, is 32 miles from Al- bany, and 115 from Syracuse. The village is of old date; of late years it has taken a new start, and it is in a thri- ving condition. Fonda, 42 miles from Albany, and 105 from Syracuse, is a new place of two or three years growth only; it is the county seat of Fulton, a county lately formed from Mont- gomery. The court house is a very respectable building, and the prospects of general improvement appear favorable. Here is an excellent eating house for railroad passengers — they stop ten minutes; the same at Amsterdam, St. Johns- ville and Little Falls, for the purposes of refreshment. Though it is not customary for travellers in this country to dispense with a single meal, yet the effects of the ride on the railroad, and the attractions of the luxuriously spread tables are such at these houses, that the passengers usually eat, as if thef^ had not broken their fast before for a week. St. Johnsville, a small village, 63 miles from Albany, and 84 from Syracuse, is noted to railroad travellers by its house of refreshment. Rockton, or Little Falls, Herkimer county, is 73 miles from Albany, and 74 from Syracuse. This place has abun- dance of fine mill seats. The Mohawk is here broken by many little islands and rocks past which it descends with much force, forming a variety of cascades and little falls. An acqueduct bridge crosses the river to the Erie canaL 34 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Utica — Rome — Syracuse. The very wild and bold scenery around Rockton, makes it a spot which the traveller looks upon with great interest. Herkimer, 80 miles from Albany, and 67 from Syracuse, is a post town on the German Flats. The city of Utica, the capital of Oneida county, is 94 miles from Albany, and 53 from Syracuse. The central situation of this city has long given it a commanding trade. An unostentatious opulence, and a happy competency, are the characteristics of a large portion of its inhabitants. At Utica the traveller purchases a ticket in the office of the Depository at which the cars stop for Syracuse, at $2, the distance of 53 miles. The route of the Syracuse road goes through Whites- towTi, distant 100 miles from Albany, and 49 from Syra- cuse, situated on a level near the Mohawk river. The village of Rome, formerly Fort Stanwix, is 107 miles from Albany, and 40 from Syracuse. The Fort was built by the British, in 1758. After the revolutionary war, it was called Fort Schuyler. Its ruins are slightly discemable, near the bank of the Mohawk river. The road passes through some other small villages that are springing up at different intersecting thoroughfares. Syracuse, is 53 miles from Utica, by the railroad. This place has grown into importance since the construction of the Erie canal, and has become the county seat of On- ondaga. The manufacture of salt is here carried on ex- tensively, both by boiling the water and by evaporation. More than one hundred acres are covered with sheds and vats for evaporating; and the salt thus made is consid- ered superior. Syracuse is a central point for travellers; in going west NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 35 Canal Travelling. from this place, three different routes are presented. One by the Erie canal, directly through to Rochester and Lockport; thence hy railroad to the Falls. One by canal and stage to Oswego, thence by steamboats to Lewiston, and railroad to the Falls. And the other by railroad to Auburn, and stages thence to Rochester, or Cannndaigun to Buffalo, and railroad to the Falls; or by stages to Lockport, and railroad to the Falls. ROUTE FROM SYRACUSE, BY CANAL, TO NIAGARA FALLS. After the fatigue of the cars, if the passenger has come direct from Albany, 147 miles, it is a gi"eat relief to go on board of the Packets. He can sit, or sleep, and in other respects find himself entirely at his ease. The fare to Rochester, 99 miles, is $4, with board. The table is provided about as well as at the good hotels; the lodging part, if there are many passengers, cannot be favorably spoken of, yet it is far better than is allowed by the jar of the railroad cars, or the swing of post coaches. About two days travelling on the canal is always an agreeable change from other modes of conveyance. The villages passed on the canal are — Miles from Miles from Syracuse. Rochester. 2 . . . Geddesburgh, Onondaga co. . . . 97 8 . . . Nine Mile Creek, " ... 91 9 . . . CamiUus, " ... 90 36 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPR,INGS, Canjil Travelling. Miles from Miles from Syracuse. Kochester. 14 . , Canton, Onondaga co. . . 85 20 . . Jordan, >y . 79 26 . . Weedsport, Cayuga co. . . . 73 27 . . Centre Port, " . . . 72 29 . . Port Byron, " . 70 35 . . Montezuma, " . 64 46 . . . Clyde, Wayne co. . 53 55 . . . Lyons, " . 44 61 . . . Lockville, " . 38 62 . . . Newark, j> . 37 65 . . . Port Gibson, Ontario co. . . 34 70 . . . Palmyra, " . 29 81 . . . Fairport, " . 18 83 . . . Fullam's Basin, Monroe co. . . . 16 89 . . . Pittsfjrd, " . . 10 99 . . . Rochester, >> , At the city of Rochester, there is again preeen xd to the traveller different routes anc conveyances to Niar ^ara Falls, via Lock port. First, a continuance by the canal — a boat leaves shortly after the arrival of the eastern boat. The fare i 3 from $2 to $2,50 to Lockport; the distance 63 miles. Thev illages passed are — Mies fror a Miles to Mies from Miles to Rochester. Lockport 10 . . Spencer's Basin Monroe co. . . . 53 12 . . Ogden, " . . 51 15 . . Adams, " . . 48 20 . . Brockport " . . 43 25 . . Holley, Orleans co. . . . 38 NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 37 Lockport and Niagara Falls Railroad. Miles from Miles to Ilocliesler. Lockport. 27 . . Murray, Orleans co. . . 36 35 . . Albion, " . 28 39 . . Portville, " . 24 44 . . Onk Orchard, " . 19 45 . . Medina, " . 18 51 . . . Middlcport, Niagara co. . . 12 63 . . TT" T „. Lockport, K„ >„.1»„„,1 4 „, •T r From Lockport to the Falls, by railroad, 24 miles; fare, 97 cents. At the village of Pekin, Hi miles, the cars stop ten minutes, to wood and water. 5| miles further, at the Junction, the passengers going to Canada take the Lewiston cars. That village is distant only 2 miles. The locomotive and train proceed on, 7 miles, to the Falls. The second route from Rochester is by stage, on the Ridge road. The fore is $2 ,50 in the summer season; the distance 61 miles. The village 8 passed are — IMiles frora Miles to Rochester. Lockj)ort 6 . . . Greece, Monroe co. ... 55 11 . . . Parma, it . 50 19 . . . Clarkson, " . 42 35 . . . Gaines, Orleans co. . 26 40 . . . Oak Orchard, " . 21 43 . . . Ridgeway, " . 18 53 . . . Hartland, >> . . 8 61 . . . Lockport, " . . And to the Falls, by railroad, 24 miles. The third route from Rochester, is by railroad, to Ba- tavia, Genesee county; fare, for 32 miles, is $1,50. From 38 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Coinpariitive Expenses. thence by stage 32 miles, fare $1,50, to Lockport. Or to Buffalo, 39 miles, fare $2,50. And from thence by rail- road, or steamboat, to Niagara Falls, 22 miles, fare 87 J cents. These routes present to the traveller the following re- sults, as to expense: The first route from Rochester, by packet, to Lockport, and railroad from thence to the Falls, the cost is $3,47 and board, 63 miles. 2d. Stage by the Ridge road and railroad, $3,47. 3d. Railroad to Batavia, stage to Lockport, &c. $3,97, 4th. Railroad to Batavia, stage to Buffalo, and railroad to the Falls, $4,87i. ROUTE FROM SYRACUSE, BY LAKE OXTARIO, Packet boat, or stage, to Oswego, at the mouth of Os- wego river, on Lake Ontario, 38 miles; fare, $1,50. From thence by steamboat, to Lewiston, on the Niagara river, 150 miles: fare, $4. From thence to the Falls, by rail- road, 7 miles; fare 50 cents. As it is desirable to see Lake Ontario, and to pass over its deep green wafers, either in going up or returning, it is recommended to take this route. If the tourist goes to Canada, the canal, or land route had better be taken in going to the Falls, and the lake in passing down, or re- NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 39 Rates of Fare — Distances. turning. To persons bound to the city of Buffalo, or to the Upper Lakes, this is a pleasant and expeditious route, and in an economical point of view, both as to time and money, preferable; and travellers on business will have an opportunity of seeing the Falls without ex- pense, and without going out of their way. The time the proprietors advertise to carry passengers from Syracuse to Niagara Falls, is 22 hours; and to Buffalo, in the short space of 23i hours. ROUTE FROM SYRACUSE, V.Y AUBURN. To Auburn, 2G miles, by railroad; fare, .f 1,25. From Auburn to Canadaigua, the conveyance is by stage; the distance is 37 miles, and the villages it passes through are, Miles from Miles to Auburji. Canandaiorua. 9 . . . Cayuga Bridge, Cayuga co. . . . 28 11 . . . Seneca Falls, Seneca co. . . . 26 15 . . . Waterloo, " ... 22 21 . . . Geneva, Ontario co. . . . 16 .37 . . . Canandaigua, " ... From Canandaigua, this routes divides again into two, one leading to Rochester, by railroad, 26 miles; fare .$l,12i; where the traveller will take one of the routes already described, from that city to the Falls. 40 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Avon Springs. Or if he pleases, he may take the road to Buffalo by stage, distance 88 miles, and pass through the following villages: Miles from Canandaigua. Mileg to Buffalo. . 80 . 75 . 70 . 65 . 63 8 . . . East Bloomfield, Ontario co. 13 . . . West Bloomfield, 18 , . . Lima, Livingston co. 23 . . . East Avon, " 25 . . . Avon, " [Two miles north of this village are the Avon Springs. They are sidphurous. The accommodations for visitore are such as are required, and these Springs of late years have been growing in favor with the public] 33 . . . Caledonia, Livingston co. . . . 55 39 . . , Le Roy, Genesee co. ... 49 43 . . . Stafford, " ... 45 49 . . . Batavia, " ... 39 56 . . . East Pembroke, " ... 32 62 . . . Pembroke, " ... 26 70 . . . Clarence, Erieco. ... 18 78 . . . Williamsville. " ... 10 88 . . . City of Buffalo. " ... N. B. On some routes the price of fare is not esti- mated, as on such it has been found to vary at different periods it has been travelled over, upon the distance en- gaged for, and for other causes, satisfactory to the propri- etors of the different lines, if not to the traveller. NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 41 Distances from Buffalo. THE CITY OF BUFFALO. Of this rising city of the West, of the high aspirations of its citizens, of its commanding position as to commer- cial advantages, of the proud eminence to which it has already risen, and to the high destiny of its future pros- perity and greatness, it is not in this voliime necessary to speak. It is sufficient to say, that it is admitted by all, that there is no location that can become its rival, and no untoward circumstances, can but for a short period retard its onward course. The City of the Lakes, as it should be called, already rising beautifully over the deep green wa- ters, is an object cheering to the mind and delightful to the eye of the tourist. As the main channel of travel to the great west is through this city, some information as to distances beyond Buffalo, will here be given. Steamboats leave Buff'alo every evening and morning; and a stage leaves every morning for the west. The price of cabin passage on the steamboats to Detroit is eight dol- lars, and intermediate ports in proportion. The distances to various points on the lakes are — Miles. From Buffalo to Dunkirk, 45 Portland, 60 Erie, 90 Salem, 116 Ashtabula, 130 Grand River, 158 Cleveland, 183 4Q TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Gniiifr from Aiasara Falls. - — 3iiies. From Bufialo to Huron, 235 Sandu8ky, 250 Detroit, 310 Mackinaw, 600 Green Bay, 750 Chicago, ...... 1000 For further information to emigrants and travellers who are bound west from the city of Buifalo, ** Steele's Wes- tern Guide Book" is recommended as a very useful work. ROUTES FROM NIAGARA FALLS, THROUGH CANADA. Travellers, when in the western part of the State of New- York, frequently come to the conclusion to make a tour in Canada, and not having provided themselves with suitable directions, at times require information which they find it very difficult to obtain. For the convenience of those who wish to extend their journey beyond the Falls, the following information has been brought together. The Falls, of late years, have become very justly the great centre of attraction, which usually receive the first visit of tourists, and thence they branch off to scenes of less magnitude, as business or curiosity leads them. The city of Bufialo is the place of general embarkation for all the countries, lakes, and rivers beyond. The traveller can reach Buffalo from the Falls, on the Canada NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 48 St. Catherines — Hamilton. side, by stage or railroad, to Chippewa, two miles, and thence by steamboat, twenty miles; or, by crossing the ferry at the Falls, to the American side, he will find it pleasant traveUing on the Buffalo and Niagara Falls rail- road, as a considerable portion of the route runs by the side of the river. It is usual for persons visiting Maiden, Sandwich, or other portions of Canada west of those places, to take steamboat from Buffalo. If the tourist confines his ramble within a short com- pass, there are, in the vicinity of the Falls, several places that may attract his attention, not mentioned in the jaunt to Canada, in the after part of this work. AUensburgh, 8 miles west from the Falls, and 59G from Quebec, is a small village on the Welland canal; a good road leads to it, which passes through a fine country. St. Davids, 6 miles north from the Falls, and 588 from Quebec, is a pretty, retired village; it lies below the mountain ridge, 2 miles west of Queenston. The Deep Cut, 8 miles west from the Falls, and 596 from Quebec, has its name from the circumstance of the Welland canal, at this place, being cut nearly 100 feet in the mountain. St. Catherines, is 10 miles west from the Falls, and 595 from Quebec. The Welland canal runs through it. It is a thriving village, and of considerable business. Hamilton, is west 40 miles, by land, and 50 miles by steamboat navigation from Niagara, and 630 from Quebec. It is near the head of Lake Ontario. It is situated on a beautiful plain, skirted on one side by the mountain and on the other by the green meadow lands lying between it and the lake. It is one of the first class of towns in the 44 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Brantford — Toronto. Upper Province, and is a very business like place, con- taining about 3000 inhabitants. Brantford, on Grand River, is 25 miles further, and is 65 miles* from the Falls, and 680 from Quebec. Along the borders of Grand River reside the remnant of the Mohawk Indians, who, under Brant, having taken sides with the British government, in the revolutionary war, had a large tract of land allotted to them on the borders of this river. There is a line of stages which run daily from Lewis- ton and Queenston, through Canada to Detroit, passing through St. Davids, St. Catherines, Hamilton, Ancas- ter, Brantford and London. Toronto, is 44 miles from the Falls, on the northern side of the lake, and 100 miles by land, and 550 from Quebec. It contains about 12,000 mhabitants. It is built by the side of the bay of the same name. The for- tifications are at a short distance from the city, on a point of land which commands the entrance into the harbor. There are several well built streets in Toronto, and many gov- ernment and other buildings of ample dimensions and in good style. The College at this place is well endowed, and is a well conducted and an excellent mstitution. The precincts around the city are handsomely improved. Or- chards, gardens, and the dwellings of wealthy people are Been in every direction. The lands about Toronto are very fertile, and for many miles in all directions, the country is well populated by able farmers. Travellers from the American or British side, can em- bark on board of steamboats at Lewiston or Queenston, 7 miles from the Falls, and 585 from Quebec, or at any NIAGARA PALLS AND CANADA. 45 Oswego — Kingston. of the ports on the river below, for Hamilton, Toronto, Kingston, or from the American ports on the lake, or of the St. Lawrence. If the tourist desires to go to the Lower Province, he will take a steamboat from (he Nia- gara river, or, if he prefers an overland route, he can take the railroad cars, and pass through the villages of Pekin and Lockport, 24 miles from the Falls, and 569 from Quebec; thence by packet or stage, and railroad, to the city of Rochester, the whole distance 85 miles, and 507 from Quebec. Those travellers who did not come to the Falls by this route, will find it a very pleasant one on their return. The ride on the railroad, along the brow of the mountain, is delightful. The great combined locks at Lockport, and the thousands of laborers now engaged in blasting the rocks and excavating the earth for the enlarged canal, are well worth seeing. The number, too, of beautiful and flourishing villages along this route — the rich and pros- perous country — the city of Rochester — the great acque- duct — the falls of the Genesee river — are all objects of great interest. At Rochester the tourist is again on the great thoroughfare of travel; and stages, railroad cars and packet boats, are ready for his accommodation. To Oswego, from Lewiston, by the lake, is 150 miles, and is 157 from the Falls, and 452 from Quebec. To Sacket's Harbor, from Oswego, 40 miles; and is 197 from the Falls, and 412 from Quebec. To Cape Vincent, fi-om Sacket's Harbor, 20 miles. Kingston, Upper Canada, now the capital of both .Pro- vinces, lies opposite Cape Vincent, distant 11 miles, and is 200 miles from Niagara Falls, and 392 from Quebec. TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Rideaii Canal — St. Lawrence River. It contains about 6000 inhabitants. This place was for- merly Fort Frontinac; it is built on the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, at its junction with Lake Ontario. The river is here 10 miles wide. The Thousand Islands commence immediately below Kingston, and are scattered in the river for a distance of 50 miles. The fortifications at Kingston are of considerable strength, and in reference to military and naval operations, it is considered an im- portant point. The Rideau canal commences in the bay; and is five miles from Kingston. It was built at the expense of the British government, and principally for military purpo- ses, in affording an internal communication between the Upper and Lower Provinces. The whole distance fi-om Kingston, by the Rideau canal, to Montreal, is 280 miles. There is a variety of interesting objects along the canal — the Rideau and Ottawa rivers, the cataract of the Chau- dire, the Rideau falls, extensive lakes, and some pleasant villages. By the St. Lawrence, the conveyance is by steamboat to Dickerson's Landing, 110 miles, passing Miles from Miles to Niagara Falls. Q,uebec. 250 . Brockville, Upper Canada, 342 Morristovvn, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. 270 . Prescott, Upper Canada, . . . : . 320 Osrdenslmrgh, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. 310 , From Dickerson's Landing, by stage, 12 miles, to 2S2 322 . Cornwall, Lower Canada, .... 270 3.63 . Thence by steamboat 41 m. to Coteaudu Lac, L. C. 229 37a '. Thence by stage 16 miles, to Cascade, L. C. . 213 403 . Theuce by steamboat 24 miles, to La Chien, L. C. 18!) 412 . "yhence by stage 9 miles, to Montreal, ... 180 NIAGARA FALLS AXD CANADA. 47 3IontreaI — Quebec. The distance from Kingston, by the St. Lawrence, to Montreal, is 212 miles. The fine scenery along the river, of lakes and lapide, of islands and rocky shores, of wild and picturesque views, of rising towns and elegant seats, and the many scenes made memorable by historical events, always charm and amuse the traveller. Besides the many objects which the city of Montreal affords to attract the attention of the tourist, the village of Varennes, on account of its medical spring and fine prospect, has become a place of much resort. The village is 15 miles from the city, 427 miles from Niagara Falls, and 165 fi-om Quebec; and the spring is about a mile from the village. A steamboat runs from Montreal to this place twice a day, and the boats that ply to and from Quebec usually stop. Pursuing the roulo down the river, William Henry is 40 miles from Montreal, 467 miles from Niagara Falls, and 125 from Quebec. It is on the bank of the river Sorcl, where it unites with the St. Lawrence. The next place of importance is the Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, and is 497 miles from Nia- gara Falls, and 95 from Quebec. Some miles up the St. Maurice, are the falls of the Shawinnegame, of 100 feet. The Richelieu rapids commence 7 miles below the Three Rivers, and is 504 miles from Niagara Falls, and 88 from Quebec. The navigation is considered danger- ous in the night, and by steamboats the rapids are always passed in the day time. The distance to Quebec from Montreal, by steamboat, is 180 miles, and from Niagara Falls 592 miles. The traveller having arrived in this city, so celebrated for the 48 TOUR TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, Returning Route from Quebec. many great events of which it has been the theatre, and for its strong fortifications, will, at his leisure, accompa- nied by some well informed citizen, or hired guide, visit all the locations and objects of attraction within and around the city. The Falls of Montmorenci are eight miles northeast of Quebec, on the river of the same name, and near the St. Lawrence; being 600 miles from Niagara Falls. The height of the Fall is 240 feet, or 72 feet higher than the Falls of Niagara, but the immense volume of water of the great cataract is wanting. The falling sheet is about 100 feet wide, or about the same width as that of the centre fall of Niagara, which passes over Ingraham's Cave. The great height, however, of these Fails, and the singular beauty which pervades the whole wild and romantic scene, is the admiration of all who have had an opportunity of beholding them. On the route between the Falls of Montmorenci and the city, is the Indian village Lorette. Some beautiful views of the eurroimding and distant scenery is afforded from this village. There are several other places in the vicinity of Quebec of considerable interest, which are pointed out to stran- gers, and are frequently visited. In returning, the usual route is back to Montreal — from thence by steamboat to Miles from Miles to Montreal. Albany. 7 . La Prairie, Lower Canada, 243 24 . Thence by railroad to St. Johns, L. C. 17 m. 226 38 . By steamboat to Isle Aux Noix, L. C. 14 m. 212 NIAGARA FALLS AND CANADA. 49 Route from Albany to Boston. iNIiles from 3Iontreal. 48 60 75 101 139 154 178 200 203 223 To Rouse's Point, L. C. 10 miles, " Chazy, Clinton county, N. Y. 12 miles Mile3 to Albany. . 202 12 mil es, 190 15 ' 175 26 ' 149 38 ' 111 15 ' 96 24 ' 72 22 ' 50 3 ' 47 20 ' " Plattsburgh, " " Burlington, Vermont, " Crown Point, N. Y. " Ticonderoga, N. Y. " Whitehall, N. Y. " Sandy Hill, N. Y. " Glen's Falls, N. Y. " Saratoga, And from thejice to Albany, 38 miles. In going to the Springs from the north, the tourist will only depart about 15 miles out of the direct route to Albany. The whole tour from New- York to Saratoga Springs, Niagara Falls, Quebec, and back to the cily of New- York, will comprise a distance of about 1,350 miles, and may be accomplished in the summer season, by those whose ambition is rapidity of movement, in less than 10 days, and at an expense of from $50 to $70. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON, (.MASS.) The citizens of Boston have evinced a great degree of public spirit in driving forward the construction of a rail- road to Albany. Already 100 miles is completed, and in operation from Boston to Springfield; and it is expected 5 ■ 50 ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. Time of leaving Albany — Fare. that from Springfield to Albany, a distance of 104 miles, the road will be completed in less than two years. Be- fore that time, the 34 miles of railroad from Batavia to Buffalo, or the 60 miles of railroad from Rochester to Lockport will also be finished. There will then be a direct railroad communication from Boston to Niagara Falls, and Buffalo, a distance of about 520 miles. The communication now between Albany and Boston is by stages and railroad cars, and the fare through is but $6. From Albany, there are two daily lines of stages. — The Telegraph mail leaves at 5 o'clock, P. M. and ar- rives at Springfield the next day in time for the afternoon cars, and goes through to Boston, 204 miles, in 24 hours. The Accommodation coach leaves every morning at 6 o'clock, and arrives at Springfield the same evening to lodge. The passengers are the next day conveyed by railroad to Boston by 12 o'clock. h PART II. JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. PUBLIC HOUSES, Description of Springs, Virtne in tlic cure of Diseases DIRECTIONS AS TO DRINKING AND USING THE WATERS. ANALYSIS. BATHING— USE OF THE BATH. SARATOGA VILLAGE — AMUSEMENTS, &c. JAUNT TO SARATOGA. ARRIVAL AT THE SPRINGS. " Madam, this way, here is our sitting room. The (lay is pleasant. Sir — Pray be seated — Happy to serve you — Any orders, Sir ? The baggage 7 It shall be seen too — A room ? "With pleasure ; I'll show you one or more." The cars with the passengers drive into the depot, the porters from the different public houses surround them. The travellers will observe painted on the sides of the room the names of the public houses, the porter to each having his appropriate stand. In selecting a house, it is better to depend upon the advertisement of the proprietor in the columns of some respectable newspaper, than the irresponsible recommendation of runners, or of anonymous bills thrust into cars and stages. Those things shoidd never be depended on. Lodging having been procured to the satisfaction of the party; after ablutions, dressing, refreshments and the like, if in health they hasten to the fountains. The first 5* 54 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Visit to Congress Spring. direction is usually to Congress Spring; it has long stood pre-eminent. It is near at hand, at the southern part of the village. A lad is usually in waiting at the spring — with a staff, at the end of which is a small metallic frame which holds Ihree half pint tumblers, he dips in the foun- tain, and raises the sparkling waters, and presents them round to those who come to drink. No pay is asked, though a slight acknowledgment is customary. One or two glasses are usually taken. This is enough until the visitor has determined upon a medical course of the wa- ters; or is informed of their virtues and effects. Having tasted of these delightful waters the visitors often return to the Main street, in order to visit all the Springs in a regular course: they commence at the most southern. Washington Spring. — It is at the lower end of Broad- way, on Main street, on the west side. This Spring pro- duces a fine mineral water; its predominant qualities are chalybeate, saline, and carbonic acid gae. These waters are diuretic and cathartic. They are very useful to persons who have been much reduced by disease, who are feeble and languid, without any local or general inflammation, and who are without febrile irrita- tion. Slowness of functional discharges will be remedied by the use of these waters, but all excess tending to inflammation will be greatly aggravated. They will strengthen digestion if there is no inflammation of the stomach, intestines, or of the liver. The waters should be drank at the Spring; from four to eight tumblers may be used each day. When they operate favorably, an improved appetite will follow. When JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 55 Columbian and Congress Springs. they oppress the stomach, cause nausea, hot flushings with diarrhoea, and at times costiveness, they should be imme- diately discontinued. The recreative Garden surrounds the Washington Spring ; and the Washington Eaths are supplied with the fresh and mineral water. The Columbian Spring. — A few rods to the north- cast of the Washington is the Columbian Spring. The waters arc similar to the Washington. As there are so many Springs near at hand of a more popular character, the waters of this are seldom used. This Spring is in a public park, or pleasure groimd; to the east of the Spring passes the road that leads to the rising groimd that is surmounted with a grove of pine, amid which is a circular railroad. Congress Spring. — This Spring already slightly men- tioned as the one first visited on the arrival of the party, is a short distance from the Columbian. It is convenient to some of the principal hotels, and has as yet been imri- valled for the excellence of its water. It is eagerly sought for abroad, and has been transported to every part of the United States, and to many foreign places. In some parts even in the United States it is sold for a higher price than some qualities of wine. But none can fully appre- ciate its superiority, but those who quaff it at the foun- tain, before any portion of the gas has escaped. The crowd of invalids and fashionables, that are fre- quently in a summer's morning, found around this Spring, is truly surprising; and the quantity of water drank is not only incredible, but in some individual cases quite alarming. It is related that ten quarts have been known 56 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Hamilton and Putnam Springs. to have been drank by a single individual before break, fast. The mineral combinations of this Spring vary in some respects from the Washington. It holds in solu- tion more magnesia and iron; and of carbonic acid gas, the difference is considerable in favor of Congress Spring. The waters of this Spring, as a medicine, may be used in all cases, with propriety, in which the Washington Spring waters are recommended; and in several others. Hamilton Spring. — Passing to the north on Putnam street, Hamilton Bath House and Spring are next observ- ed. This water is esteemed as possessing superior diur- etic qualities. It is still a little more charged with gas, has more saline matter and soda, but less magnesia and lime, but the difference in these particulars are not con- siderable. The Baths at this Spring are well fitted up, and are supplied with both pure and mineral water. Putnam's Congress Spring. — Pursuing the route along Putnam street, this Spring is next in order. The waters are of a quality equal to any already mentioned; and a Bath House with every suitable convenience, hav- ing also pure and mineral water, is near at hand. The Pavilion Springs. — Still further, on the same street, lying in the centre of the ravine, is the Pavilion Springs. In 1839, some slight appearances of a Spring was noticed, and the enterprising owner of the property, D. M'Laren, Esq. commenced an excavation. He fol- lowed the Springs down for about 35 feet, when the foun- tains gushed up and flowed over the surface. Nothing can be more beautiful than these fountains. They are but a few feet apart; they boil up with crystilline purity; they JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 57 Analysis of the Waters. are not. turbed or yeasty, but air and water seem commin- gled with a brightness and brilliancy altogether indescri- bable. The public have been furnished with the following analysis of one of these fountains. The other is called the Magnesia Fountain. " Pavilion Fountain. — One gallon of this water is found to contain — Grains. Chloride of Sodium, 226.58 Carbonate of Magnesia, 62.50 Carbonate Lime, 60.24 Carbonate Soda, 4.70 Oxide Iron, 4.10 Iodide of Sodium, 2.75 Bromide of Potassium, 2.75 Silica, 62 Alumina, .25 Total grains, 361.74 Cubic inches. Carbonic acid gas, 480.01 Atmospheric air, 8.00 Total cubic inches, .... 488.01 JAMES THOMAS." Saratoga Springs, Aug. 12, 1840." As to the peculiar medical qualities of these fountains, if materially different from the others, time and experi- ence is required to test and determine their value. 58 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Flat Rock and Monroe Springs. The Flat Rock Spring. — Directly north from the New Saline, is the Flat Rock Spring and Bathing House. The reputation of this Spring has always been good, and its waters are used freely by visitors. The minerals they hold in solution, vary in some slight respects from those already mentioned. The proportion of saline matter and of carbonic acid gas, is not so great as others that have been spoken of; and in some cases of disease this water is more useful than in those that require more powerful remedies. The Monroe Springs. — A few rods farther, on a small plat of ground of less than an acre, are three Springs. These perhaps constitute as singular an assemblage of Springs as was ever found together within so small a compass. One is chalybeate, being very strongly impreg- nated with iron. One is sulphurous; the only sulphur Spring introduced to the notice of visitors at the village of Saratoga. The other is a fine sparkling acididous water, pungent, and of agreeable flavor. It has received favor as an anti- dyspeptic drink; it sits easier on the stomach, and taken in moderate quantities, is not attended with any disagree- able sensation of heaviness and cold. The American Bath House at these Springe, affords all the necessary cpnveniences to visitors, JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 59 Higli Rock i^pririg. HIGH ROCK SPRING " Thou stream, Whose source is inaccessibly profound, AVhiih^r do thy mysterious waters tend ? Thou inia^'st my life.-' Still a short space farther north is the High Rock Spring. This is the most ancient of all the Springs, and was well known to the aborigines of the country for its curative powers. It was held by them in great esti- mation, and was by them pointed out to the white man. Around it nature has formed a curb of rock; all the others are secured by artificial means. This isolated rock is about three feet high, and about nine feet in diameter at its base, diminishing in width towards the top; the waters within rise about a foot above the surface of the earth, boiling and gurgling. They are seen from above through a circular opening of about eight inches in diameter, but disappearing through some unseen subterranean passage. This is one of those singular form- ations of nature which excites the wonder and claims the admiration of all who visit it. The water of this Spring is not used as much as formerly, though it will compare in almost every respect with many that have become more popular. 60 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Indian Legend. It is supposed that the fountain once flowed over the top of the rock. One tradition says, that a tree fell over the Spring and split the rock at the bottom; but an Indian tradition accounts for it in another way. INDIAN LEGEND OF HIGH ROCK SPRING. Far in the forest's deep recess, Dark, hidden, and alone. Mid marshy fens and tangled woods. There rose a rocky cone. It was a strange, mysterious spot. And near no mortal dwell' d ; But there retired the sorcerer priest, His secret orgies held. II. There the fierce tenants of the wood On one another prey'd. And though the tuiiid deer were slaui, Yet fondly round they stray'd ; Theu- natures craved the saline drauglu For that they eager sought, ^Viid oft one single hasty sip. Was with tlieir life blood bougiit. III. Within that rocky cone a spring Of healing waters rose, And o'er tlie top it ghtteriiig spreads, And down the sides it flows ; It looked as if with brilliant gems. That curtain'd rock was bound, As sparkling hung the ahy stream. Like floating drap'ry round. JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 61 Indian Legend From forth the forest deepest gloom, There movetl with stealthy pace, A female form of lovely mould, And beauty's witching face ; Upon her brow the smnmer sun, And the free desert air Had cast a mellow auburn tint, With love to revel there. She came to bathe in that pure spring, As forth the waters boil'd •, Her hand she raised to touch the fount. Back ! b;ick ! The stream recoil'd. Deep printed on tliat beating heart, Forever to remain. In spite of tears and cleansing founts. There was a guilty stain. VI. Down in the bosom of tlie rock, The gurghng fountain fell ; There still it flows, and its lone sound, As notes of warning swell. That guilty one in frantic fear. Fled with desponding shame ; Nor was she ever heard of more, And none recaU'd her name. The spot around the High Rock Spring seems to be the only one that has fallen into neglect. It should not be so; ja small park with trees, should surround it, and over the Spring should be erected a light and airy temple. 6 62 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. AValton, or Iodine Spring. The Walton, or Iodine Spring. — Not far from the High Rock, in a northerly direction, is the Walton or Iodine Spring, formerlj'- called the President's Spring. It is a beautiful water, and is much used on account of the medical efficacy of Iodine in certain diseases. As there is also lees iron in it than in the other Springs, to a certain class of patients it will prove useful. To others however, the iron forms the principal virtue. On account of the Iodine, this Spring has been recom- mended for many forms of scrofula, goitre, and some other diseases of a hke nature. Professor Emmons, of the Medical College in Albany, and one of the New- York State Geologists, has furnished an analysis of one gallon of the water of the Walton Spring, and finds that it contains the following ingredi- ents : Grains. Muriate of Soda, 187 Carbonate of Lime, 26 Carbonate of Iron, 1 Carbonate of Magnesia, 75 Carbonate of Soda, 2 Hydriodate of Soda, or Iodine, 3i Cubic inches. Carbonic acid gas, (from water which had been bottled three weeks,) 330 Atmospheric air, 4 Besides the Springs that have been described, several others might be mentioned, but as they possess no pecu- liarity, and are but seldom visited, it will be sufficient- simply to enumerate some of them. JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 63 Ballston Spa. The Red Spring, about eighty rods east from the High Rock, 80 named from the iron hke deposite within and around it. The Tex Sprixgs. — These are about a mile east of the village. They are in the same ravine as the Saratoga Springs, and are of a similar description. To pedestrians, a walk to these Springs is an agreeable excursion. The Ellis Spring, two miles south of the village. The Quaker Springs, in the eastern part of the town, ten miles from Saratoga. The Sulphur Spring, on the east side of Saratoga Lake. This Spring is well spoken of; it is deeply im- pregnated with sulphur, and the water is abimdant. BALLSTON SPA. It was not intended to notice any other mineral Sprtngs but those of Saratoga; by omitting to describe the Springs cither at Ballston or other places, there is no intention to underrate them — they do not come within the limits the author prescribed for this work; yet he feels it incumbent to add in addition to the slight notice already made of Ballston Spa, that among the Springs yet celebrated at that place, is the Washington Spring. — Its chalybeate quality is but little intermixed with other ingredients, and is valuable to those who wish to use a pure water of this description. C4 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Observations on Mineral "Waters. One of the Sans Souci Springs is used for its cathartic effects, and to some it is an agreeable and pleasant drink. The Park Spring, is highly spoken of as being among the best acidulous chalybeate water afforded in this or any other country. The Sans Souci. — This is very similar to some of the best Springs of Saratoga in its acidulous, chalybeate and saline qualities, and is in use for like medical purposes. By these hasty notices it will be perceived, that as well as from location and accommodation for visitors, Ballston has yet in its rich medical waters, a strong claim upon the public for a portion of their patronage. MINERAL WATERS. Go wash in Uic pool of Siloam. The cfHcacy of mineral waters to cure all diecases is not to be expected, and by their greatest advocates so much has been claimed for them; but that they possess curative powers, and have proved successful in thousands of cases, has not been denied even by those who are most incredulous as to their salutary operation in general. Much weight however, has been placed upon change of air, healthful exercise, cassation from ordinary occupa- tions, variety of scenes, amusements, the excitement of JAUNT TO BARATOGA SPRINGS. 65 The acidulous waters. company, and the like. These are undoubtedly valuable restoratives to feeble habits. Man tires with the dull round of occupation to which day after day, and year after year, he has been bound. The very air he has breathed 80 long, though fresh and healthful to others, is no longer 80 to him. The food v^^e eat, be it ever so delicious, if served to us repeatedly, palls upon the appetite, and we turn from it with loathing. It is the same with the at- mosphere; it loses its accustomed elasticity, its freshness; a change is necessary; and when we return, we find it has resumed its pristine purity — the air of home no longer depresses, but refreshes. To give to home all its value and endearments, nothing can be better than travelling, or an occasional excursion abroad. To those in ill health, much ie to be gained by a resort to medicinal springs, besides the advantages derived from the use of the water. Mineral waters are usually classed under four heads. 1st. The Acididous. These are highly charged with carbonic acid, or the acid of charcoal. They sparkle in the glass when drawn from the spring, and have a pun- gent taste. The Saratoga waters are of this kind. 2d. Chalyhcatcs. The distinguishing feature of these is iron. They have an acrid taste ; form a black color with galls, or oak bark. Some of them are also acidu- lous. The Saratoga waters are also of this kind. 3d. Saline. This class contain different saline ingre- dients, such as sulphate of magnesia and soda, muriates and carbonates of soda and lime. The springs also of Saratoga are alike of this class. 4th. Sulphurous. Their prevailing character arises 6* 66 JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. Saratoea waters as a beverage. from the presence of sulphurreted hydrogen, either un- combined, or united with lime, an alkali, iron, &c. — One of the Monroe Springe, at Saratoga, is salphurous. These are the four great classes of mineral springs, and of some of these are all the celebrated springs scattered over Europe and America. At Saratoga there is combi- ned all the essential virtues of those that are most highly approved. They are Acidulous, Chalybeate, Saline, and Sulphurous. At Saratoga nature has left nothing want- ing in this respect, but Thermal waters; and these for all useful purposes, are furnished by art, in the numerous and commo'dious baths which have of late years been erected. The temperature of the Saratoga Springs is low, and ranges between 48° and 51° Fahrenheit. THE USE OP THE SARATOGA WATERS SIMPLY AS A DRINK, AND MEDICINALLY. " Even here, let not The thoughtless fashion of the giddy crowd Tempt thee too far.'" If used simply as a drink by those who are in health, when no medical operation is desired, all that is required is moderation. The temperate use of them is healthful, and beneficial: but to use them to excess is dangerous even to those whose health is sound. JAUNT TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 67 In ill health consult a physician. Invalids, and all those who desire to use them as a medicine, unless they are themselves well acquainted with mineral waters, and the nature of the disease with which they are afflicted, should never commence upon their use without first consulting with a regular physi- cian, well experienced in a knowledge of the medicinal effacts of mineral waters. Though in this work a variety of diseases are mentioned in which these waters have been used beneficially, yet these must be considered as mere indications to those who desire to use them, founded on the best authority; but it is the experience and authority of others, and not positive directions emanating from the author. His advice is always to consult a physician who resides upon the spot, and one who has closely studied the character of diseases in general, and who well knows the virtues and effects of the medicine to be used. To those who desire the waters to operate as a cathar- tic, it is recommended that they rise early in the morning and repair to the spring which they prefer, and take two tumblers of the water; then a little exercise — a walk to the circular railroad, to the Washington, or Hamilton Spring, where one more glass may be taken. In most cases this will be sufficient, but some persons require more, and a glass may be taken at Putnnm's Congress, the Pavilion, the Monroe, Flat Rock and Walton Springs, in all about four pints. This is the utmost limit, and seems to be too large a quantity; but even six pints have been allowed; but more should in no case be presumed to be taken. Some however have imprudently taken much larger quantities, even to the extent of two gallons and a half before the hour of dinner. By the time the round 68 JAttJTT TO SARATOOA SPftlNdfl. Bntlilne nt the Siirlagtt. of flip fiprln^ fans brrn mndo, lhe nppptiltj will bo pre- pnrrd fur brcnklnpl, nn«l il will bo jJiopor (o rvlum to Ihp bolol. A» n dnily drink, i'vnu I'Mir b> oigbt glnpspfi iei n tunfubjr qunnlily; nrdmnrily il is nol ndviwiblo to excood Ibin pnr dirni. Wlieu Ibo wnirr lies bcnvy on Ibo ptdnjnrb, enur- ing nnj>lrnpnnl PontmUonf", its uec pbould bo dieconliiiuod. TllE IRK OK TIIK W ATKRM IN nATIII\(;, AND THK jVATII I.N GENERA I» " Abnnn r\ I'lirpiir, fl'-iivrsi ii»« liirn, r( jr (Irviriidroii nrt 1" Wnlrriof i)Inci'N nrc nol only rrrrnicnif'l I'T <))<• piir- pow^ ol' (IrMjkinti \hv wnlcr?", but jiIbo for nnolbor ronmd- prntion, ofirn nioro iniporlnnl in tbo euro of dimnseB, tbo judicious URO of Ibo l>nlb; find n« llio mn»! lunpb' nrrnnt/i> mcnta nru nindr n( Bninlot'fi f'»r bnlbilig, nny dircrliong to visitors woidd bo vrry inconipb-ic, wero tbip Biilijrct omil- tod. Ab il ift d«n|/i>rnii9 to druik Ibo wnUrfi In nny gri^nt pxtont, citbor in good or ill bt-nllb, wilboul n p( rfcct knowlodgo of llu'ir virlms nntlhMji or llif^ lliilli. Tim Imtli, M a rimwdy for lUmnho, dhould not ho naoil vmIIiiiiiI fioiiio kiiOv\l('(l;.^(; of Ihc luibjri-t, or willtoiit llio iiilvu-o ol a phynirifin. 'J'Iki UM(i(|iii(y ol hiilliiiif/, ill) coticrnl prnvftliiicr Mmmi}.; rill iinlioiiM, find itn iir rliiliii ht iih n iiitilln of iicihiiiiiiI pu nly, IH knoNvri find »cktu>wlcd;^t'd l>y nil, Iml llir r< inrdinl viiIu<:hoI llio Imlli, iJH N(*(ii«iiifililr find |ii(i|i< r iinr, iiiii nut f.V'ii('rfilly fippi'crinl(ul, iind l)ul. liUlo rn^tirdid. Indrod Ibu wlml^ roMiiil ol' llic Mfifriiil Mi'dicfi dorM iiol filllird Ho |.I(MM(in( and »iri'(niiiil roinody In llii' llm niiliin- rind iiIm^.m! oi llio (hni<>UM\ II in n fi_(\turu\ icfinvHior ol llin In iillli, (ind it° fmy (-xlnriird fipplictilinii cnn ^iv(i (nnd'orl, »idd lo Mlirnf/lli, ini|»rovo h^fnily, or krcp nl ii ditiluncu llu) ftdvnncrH ol fif.Mi, il i« llin tmlh. (M fdl civdi/cd peo- ple, llir Anici'icnnH liiivc |iiiid llir Irrinl ntltnlion In itii UMC, Duel. It) II, in liiM liook on Imlliiri^^, ottHcrvrfl: " A liftlli Iiouh*! Hlioidd Ik' di-ciiii'd oi iniporlnnru oidy Hitcondnry lo fi kilclirn, or n oonkinf/ hIovo, find nrlfiinly hIioiiIiI Inkf Hut pn'rcdcncc of rooiiiA iillod willi coHlly (iirniliir(^ tin(i in|ifiny kfcpiiiK." \h lo the ciltTlH of hnlhin^^ upon lliri Iniriifin fiyMlcni, Iho I'oM lifilli in j^'cncrfllly flilowt-d to In- Mrd/ilivr, yt'l it r» lrt'«liiH. 'riio l(|iriU CI Jo G5 Carbonate of Lime- 03 01 r9' CO b en Ko Carbonate of Iron. P^2 i 0DH-'T is to the Whirlpool. It requires three hours; and, if extended to the Devil's Hole, Indian Village, and old Fort Niagara, a day or more will be plea- santly spent in the excursion. The Fourth Jaunt is to Canada. This, like the visit to the Falls, may be accomplished in less than an hour; but it would be superficial. Very few are satisfied with such a slight peep into her Majesty's dominions. They like to visit Table Rock, and take a look below, through the mist and under the sheet of falling water. In speaking of the time to be consumed in looking at and around the greatest cataract in the world, reference is had to those who travel with railroad speed, and such are travellers in general, in these days; and not to those who have leisure. To such as have time and opportunity, no period can be fixed; all depends on their own impres- sions. If they are unexcited and uninterested, their stay will be short; they will cast a dull and unimpassioned look over the scene, and hurry away. Others who have felt differently, have remained weeks and months at the Falls, still extolling them, and spending their time much to their satisfaction. A JAUxNT THE FALLS OF NIAGARA, OX THE AMERICAN SIDE. THE TRAVELLERS. A party from q dislnnt city arc on a tour of pleasure to the Falls. There are three principal routes on the American side that lead to this celebrated place. One from the upper lakes, the south and the east, through the city of Buffalo, from thence by railroad to the place of destination: One from Canada, and the lower lakes, via Lewieton, and from thence also, by railroad: The third, from the east, by the Erie canal, railroads, stages and steamboats, to the city of Rochester, and through the village of Lockport, and from thence by rail- road to the Falls. The travellers that are the dravuitis pcrsotuE of this jamit-, are seated in the Lockport and Nigagara Falls rail- 102 JAUNT TO TIIS FALLS. P'irst sijrlit. road cars. They have arrived within two miles of the object of their visit, and the exclamation is heard — '* the Falls ! the Falla !" An imposing scene has, indeed, broke upon them, and a general move takes place to catch a glimpse of the mighty cataract. Those seated at the right side of the cars have a full and direct view in front, and of the Niagara river, which, by their side, flows far beneath. On the very verge of its banks, at a dizzy height, they are whirling at the rapid rate of eigh- teen miles an hour. On looking below, some passengers hold their breath in amazement; others have been known to express their astonishment by a low protracted whistle, until the supposed danger was past. On looking at the object before her, one of the ladies exclaims — ** is that the Falls?" " Yes," replies a pas- senger, *' and look below, there is the far famed Niagara river." Another observes — "after so long a period I behold this place;" and one — "what a distance have we come to feast our eyes upon this scene!" " A great mist arises from the water — the Falls seem concealed behind a cloud. Is it always so 1" "Always," answered a person familiar with the scene, " and in the clear cold weather of winter, the mist which arises in clouds, appears like the flame and smoke of some great conflagration, or as of a burning city. At such times the burning of Moscow is always brought to my remembrance." In a few minutes after the Falls are first beheld, at the mineral spring, two miles from the cataract, the cars have rolled on; have passed through the Main street of the vil- lage, and have stopped at the upper end. JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 103 General Remarks of Travellers. The cars of the passengers are saluted with — " passen- gers for the :," "travellers for the — — ," "gentle- men, please to show me your baggage for the ," " baggage," *' for the , Madam?" " do you go to the , Sir?" and all the jargon and noise which a fall array of the runners and waiters from the hotels can utter. The travellers having made up their minds before their arrival, or afterwards, go to their hotel, enter their names, secure their rooms, end breakfast, dine or sup, as the case may be, and when prepared for a visit to the Falls, send for a Guide. The aid of a guide is indispensable, to point out the dif- ferent views, and to impart a full knowledge of all the localities. After having concluded their arrangements they start on their first ramble. Passing in a western direction from the hotel, they traverse the bank of the river, or after leaving a narrow street, continue along on the rising ground, until they enter a grove of trees; emerging from thence, they behold the Falls at once before them, rolling majestically, and displaying all their grandeur. "How magnificent!" " Truly, the half has not been told!" " It is grand — it is dreadful!" ** They are terrible, yet beautiful!" *' They appear small at a distance, and, at first sight, I was disappointed. They exceed my expectations." *' Never have I beheld, or imagined, any thing com- parable to this. Such arc some of the many expressions which break 9* 104 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Description. from travellers, and show forth their emotions; they are generally those of admiration, mingled with pleaeure; but many gaze and wonder in silence. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. " Tremendous torrent I for an instant huth The terrors of thy voice, and cast aside Those wild involving shadows ; that nn' ej'cg May sec the fearful beauty of thy face." On the western bomidary of the State of New- York, runs the Niagara river, in a northern direction, and the centre of which is the boundary line between the United States and the dominions of Great Britain. The Niagara is the outlet of the vast chain of western lakes, beginning with lake Superior and its hundred tributary streams, and is the principal inlet of lake Ontario. Niagara is derived from the Indian, and was called by them Onyakarra, according to David Cusich, of the Tuscarora tribe, who published a pamphlet in 1827. The Falls are twenty-two miles from lake Erie, and fourteen from lake Ontario. The two branches of the river which encompass Grand and other Islands, unite a mile above the rapids; and it is there, two miles in width. As it advances forward, the ciurent accelerates in its downward course, and the channel contracts in width. From tranquil and glossy, a slight ripple is seen to move the surface; it next assumes a descending and cradle-like JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 105 Volume of Water. movement; the waves enlarge, the tops roll over each other, and are broken into white-caps and spray. The whole body of the mighty river becomes agitated, as if conscious of the great plunge it is about to make. The placid stream has become a rushing torrent, broken into cascades and sweeping billows. Its own momentum l)re3ses it forward with irresistible violence; from ridge to ridge it bounds, until it reaches the perpendicular rock, and there it sweeps over, and falls belov/. The water boils up from beneath, like a sea of while foam; the spray rises in clouds which hang dark and heavy above, or are wafted away by the current of the wind; and rainbows encircle below and above this most wonderful of nature's works. Iris island is in the midst of the Falls, and separates the water into two great sheets. A smaller sheet is struck off by Prospect island, passing between that and Iris isl- and. The portion between the islands and American shore is less than the main channel which separates Can- ada from the United States, and passes on the western side of Iris island. In that chamiel is borne along a volume of water of immenfee magnitude, the drain of more thau 150,000 square miles of surface of lakes and rivers. How sublime the object that is presented to the enrap- tured beholder! Such a body of congregated water poured at once over so high a precipice, and falling perpendicu- larly into the chasm below, whose depth it is not possible for man to fathom. The rushing, roaring sound which is emitted by the falling water — the variety of colors presented to the eye; 106 JAUXT TO THE FALLS. Familiarity wiili the noise. the splendor yet sublimity of the scene — ore new to the spectator, and create emotions hard to be described. The sounds are those of the stormy ocean and over- whelming tempest; there is one continued roar, yet other sounds arise fitful and varied. Some persons, at times, have fancied noises, strange and mysterious; the intonations of the bass drum — the slow, solemn and heavy report of artillery — the swelling note of the trumpet — and even the human voice in agony, has been heard by inany imaginative enthusiasts. But the similarity of the sounds to the bass drum, and to artillery are so near, at times, that persons have been re- peatedly deceived. It requires a long residence to become femiliar to, and regardless of the noise. To some it creates unpleasant sensations, but generally they are those of a contrary character. To those who are residents, the quietude which seems to prevail when they visit any of the adja- cent villages, makes it appear to them like the stillness of Sunday. Strangers who remain over night, though the sound of the Falls is in their ears w^hen they retire to rest, yet when they happen to awake from their slumbers, fre- quently fancy themselves in the midst of a tempest; the house trembles, the windows and doors clatter, the wind rushes and whistles rotmd, the rain pours; and amid all, they hear the unceasing sound of the cataract. They rise to look out upon the raging storm; and when they draw the curtain, or throw up the windows, they per- ceive that the stars are shining sweetly, and not a zephyr disturbs the pendant leaves. JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 107 Dist:iiice which the Falls are heard. In heavy weather the sound is louder, and is heard farther; and to those who live at a distance, though within hearing of the Falls, they are an unfailing baro- meter. After a pleasant turn of weather, during which the sound has juet been perceptible, often gradually, and sometimes euddenh', the increased roar of the cataract conies upon the ear. A change of weather immediately takes place, and is often followed by a storm. In some directions the roar of the Falls is not usually heard over six or seven miles; along the course of the river they are constantly perceptible for about fourteen miles; they have been occasionally heard at the distance of thirty miles; and in one instance an individual asserts to have heard them at the city of Toronto, in Canada, distant forty-four miles. The concussion of the falling waters jar the adjoining shores, and the houses tremble in concert with the mi- ceasing shock. This may be questioned by those who have only spent an hour or two at the Falls, in the clear, serene, and bland weather of summer; but those who have remained there longer will certify to the fact. If a door is left ajar it vibrates, if a window is loose it clatters; and even sitting quietly at their fire-sides, the inhabitants will, at times, perceive a tremulous motion, which they can trace to the Falls. There is much difference in hearing the Falls; at a short distance from them the noise is not unpleasant, but close to the sheets of water, to many persons it is almost overwhelming. It is believed by many abroad, that persons long resident at the Falls become hard of bearing. That this is generally eo, cannot be positively 108 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Inquiries aiiswereii. asserted. A lady of Lewiston, who several years since visited the Falls, asserts, that to her the noise was so intense as to deprive her of hearing in one ear; and though many years have since passed, she has not recovered from the deafness with which she was then struck. And yet very many visitors express themselves greally disappoint- ed as to the noise of the Falls; they expected to hear it heavier and louder. Nothing but bursting boilers, roaring cannon, pealing thunder, or crashing earthquakes can come up to the expectations of such persons. INQUIRIES ANSWERED. " Trifles, on an interesting subject, Cease to be trifles." As many inquiries are made as to places, heights, dis- tances, and on a variety of other subjects, the following paragraphs are intended as answers to such, and afford in the shortest practicable way, the information required. The form of the Falls is a curve. That part between Iris island and Canada is called the Horse Shoe Falls. The western or Horse Shoe Fall is about seven hun- dred yards in circumference. The Fall on the northern eido of the island is three hundred and thirty yards. The centre Fall, between Iris and Prorpect islands, is about thirty-three yards. JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 109 Quantity of water passm«f over the Falls. The whole distance around the curve, inchiding Iris and Prospect islands, is computed at one thousand four hundred yards. The height of the Falls, on the American side, is one- hundred and sixty-four feet; on the Canada side, one hundred and tifty-eight feet. From Chippewa to Schlosser the river is the widest. The descent from those places to the great pitch is esti- mated at ninety feet. At the ferry below the Falls the river is fifty-six rods wide. It has been crossed in five minutes; it ordinarily requires ten. The cloud of spray which arises from the Falls, is always ssen, except when scattered by the wind. It is sometimes seen from a great distance, even from that of one himdred miles. Computations have been made of the quantity of water that passes over the Falls. One is that 5,084,089,280 barrels descend in (wcn1y-four hours; 211,836,853, in one hour; 3,530,614, in a minute; and 58,843 in a sec- ond. This statement is undoubtedly within bounds; and the quantity is probably considerably more. The average height of the banks about the Falls is from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet. You can go, for a short distance from Iris island, un- der the spray of the Horse Shoe Falls; some have called it going under the Horse Shoe Falls, but that is saying too much. The principal spot visited, for going under the sheet of water, is at Table Rock. Even there, it is fashionable to epeak of the distance advanced, in exaggerated terms. 110 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. I\ umber of Visiters. Great differences of opinion exist as to the best view of this scene of many wonders. One says, *' the best view of the Falls is from Table Rock." Another, "the best view to be had is from the centre of the river, in crossing." A third, " at Ware's observatory, near the ferry. A fourth, " the best view is from the foot of the stair-case, on the American side." A fifth, " the grand- est views of all are from the point of Iris island where it overlooks the Horse Shoe Falls, and from the Tower at the Terrapin rocks." After all, it must be conceded that the view of the Falls in Canada, surpasses any on the American side. On this side there are many different views; your eye passes over the various prospects, piece by piece; on the Canada side you have a full front view. On the Ameri- can side, comparing large things with small, you not only occupy the stage box, but go behind the scenes. Persons who visit the Falls, to form a right conception of the wonders of this country should pass over to Iris island, should visit the whirlpool, and great rapids along the river, and should cross into Canada. From the rapidity of the water below the Falls, it has been difficult to fathom it, but as nearly as has been as- certained, it is two hundred and forty feet deep. The ferrymen convey baggage safely from one side of the river to the other, for a fair compensation. The descending and ascending the hills is a laborious task, and they earn their money. The number of visiters increase yearly. In 1838, from the best authority, the number exceeded twenty thou- sand. The nmnber of vifeiters in 1839, exceeded by one- JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Ill Names and Initials;. third, that of any other year. In 1840, though the preesure of the times was unprecedented, yet the num- ber of visitors was about the same as the previous year. NAMES AND INITIALS ON THE ROCKS AND TREES. " Bu=y memory seeks, E'en in the woody glade, for some dear mark Of those we love." There are observed many names and initials chiseled upon the rocks, and cut upon the trees. Some high in the branches, and some projecting over the precipice. At the first thought one supposes that the short lived immortality thus to be obtained is hardly worth the labor and risk. It is not so much the expectation of fixing a lasting me- morial, as the pleasure of having one's name recognised by some friend, or acquaintance, in present or after years. These mementos are like the registry of a public house, but possesses a romantic interest that registers do not. Here on the dark rocks and wild forest trees of Niagara, mingled with names from every part of the world, will sometimes be found one dear to the heart of the observer, and the object will be hailed with pleasure. It may have been indented years ago, and he who made the memorial, may, when the name is recognised, have ceased to exist among the living ; and then may be brought to mind 10 112 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. IMists and Optical Illusions. *' scenes long passed, never to return." More than once, affecting recognizances of this kind have been witnessed. Had the first European who visited this spot left some memorial of the time, and his own name, he would, by that slight circumstance, have secured an immortality for Aimself, and much satisfaction to modern enquirers. — This is not a useless labor; it is interesting to many, and will often aflbrd some data and materials for the traveller and historian. MISTS AROUND THE FALLS, AND OPTICAL ILLUSIONS. " Indistinct " Seen through the turbid air, beyond the life, " Objects appear." The Falls, to residents, have lost much of their lone- liness, the majesty and awfulness which they once pos- sessed. Frequently beholding them has made the scene familiar; not only so, but there are now so many of the works of man about them, houses stair-cases, bridges, roads, prospect towers, and the like, that the wild and savage aspect which they once wore, has disappeared. When the ferry was at first established, at times there would not be a passenger for several days; in conse- quence, it would be often neglected, and travellers were JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 118 First discovery. frequently detained, not only hours, but days, in waiting on the movements of the irregular and tardy ferrymaix. One who was thus detained, when most anxious, on im- portant business to cross the river, relates — " I waited on the American bank, and watched the coming of the fer- ryman. Clouds of mist would move down the river, ob- scuring, except ut intervals, the shores from each other. At such times, the appearances were truly deceptive. I would see persons coming to the top of the bank; I would observe them passing down the hill, emerging at times from behind the rocks and bushes; and could almost count their numbers as they advanced to the landing place. Directly, a blast of wind would come, driving away the cloud of mist, and showing clearly that no persons were in sight. I would think they had retired behind the rocks, or were in some hidden part of the path that ascended the bank, as it wound its obscure way un- der shrubs and trees. Again the mist would roll over, and again the phantoms would appear, and, like an ignvs fatuus, would lure me to remain till darkness and night cut off all prospect of the ferryman^'s coming ! !" Who first discovered the Falls, does not appear to be known. They were visited in 1G57, and without doubt many years before. This is the earliest notice of them yet brought to light. In 1678, they were visited and de- scribed by Father Hcnnipen. The description is not very different from those of the present day. In calling the Falls 600 feet high, it is likely tjie estimate was made from the top of the bank to the supposed bottom of the gulf, or abyss into which tho waters are precipitated. It is not now certainly known but that the estimate in that point of view is correct. 114 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Francis Abbott. After having viewed the Falls, from the observatory, or brow of the bank, to their satiefaction, the travellers pass down the river, entering the pleasure garden. A eummer house stands upon the ground where once was the cottage of Francis Abbott. From this place he could look out upon the Falls, and regale himself with the sight of the object to which he was spell-bound and infatuated. This was not a favored residence; but as he could not be permitted to seclude himself on the island, to which he was so extremely partial, he sorrowfully seated himself here. As every visitor wishes to hear about this eccentric gentleman, all the information that has been obtained, is given in the following account. FRANCIS ABBOTT. "From my youth upwards, My spirit wallied not witli the souls of men, Nor looked upon tlie ea.rth with human eyes 5 The thirst of tlieir amlntion was not mine,— The jiini of their existence was not mine ; I had no sympathy with breathing flesh. My joy was in the wilderness, to breathe The difficult air of the iced mounuiin's top, AVhere the birds dare not buUd, nor insects wing Flit o'er the herbless granite ; or to plunge Into the rolling torrent, and to roll alon?." In the afternoon of the 18th of June, 1829, a tall, well built, and handsome maji, dressed in a long loose JAUNT TO THE PAL LB. 115 Francis Alibott. gown, or cloak, of a chocolate color, was eeen passing through the principal street of the villnge of Niagara Falls. He had under his arm a roll of blankets, a flute, a port folio, and a large book; in his right hand he carried a small stick. He advanced towards the Eagle Hotel, attracting the gaze of visitors and others by the singular- ity of his appearance. With elastic step and animated motion, he passed the hotel; he heeded not the inquiring gaze of the idle multitude, but firm and erect he bent hia course to a more lowly, but respectable inn. He at once entered into stipulations with the landlord, that the room he occupied should be solely his own; that he should have his table to himself; and that only certain portions of his fare should be furnished by the landlady. He made the usual inquiries about the Falls, and among other things, wished to know if there was a reading-room or library in the village. Being informed that there was a library, he immcdiattly repaired to the individual who kept it; deposited three dollars, and took a book; purcha- sed a violin; borrowed music books; infonned the librarian that his name was Francis Abbott; that he should remain a few days at the Full?, and conversed on many subjects with great ease and ability. The next day, he returned to the same person; expa- tiated largely upon the surrounding scenery, the cascades and cataracts, and of that sublime spectacle, the Falls. In all his travels, he said, he had never met with any thing to compare with this combination of all that was great and beautiful. There was nothing so grand as Niagara Falls, except Mount iEtna, during an eruption. He inquired how long travellers usually remained, and 10* 116 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. His opinion of the Falls. being informed that many stayed only one day, he obser- ved that he should remain at least a week; and further remarked, "Can it be, that there are those who come to this place, and leave it in one day! I am astonished that persons can be found so little interested in these oston- isliing works of nature, as to spend so short a period of lime in passing around and beholding them. As well might a traveller, in one or two days, attempt to examine in detail the various museums and curiosities of Paris, as to think of becoming acquainted with the magnificent scenery of Niagara, in such a short space of time." In a few days he called again, and again expatiated up- on the resplendent scenery of the Falls, and said he had concluded to remain a month, and perhaps six months. In a short time after, he deteimined to fix his abode on Iris island, and was desirous of erecting a rustic hut, for the purpose of abstracting himself from all society, and of becoming a solitary hermit. The proprietor of the island having become acquainted with his eccentricities, was apprehensive that his permanent residence there, might be alarming to strangers, who did not know him. For this reason, he thought it not proper to allow him to erect a building for such a purpose, but permitted him to occupy a room in the only house then on the island. In this house there lived a family that furnished him at times with milk and bread. But he often dispensed with these necessary articles, providing himself in such other way as suited his fancy, and preparing his food to suit his own taste. He observed once to a friend, "that people, in their mode of living, took a great deal of trouble and un- necessary pains; for my part, I have adopted a method JAUNT TO THE PALLS. 117 His residrnce — moilc of li\ in?. which I find very pleasant and ngreeable. I take about a pint of water, in which I mix a sufficient quantity of wheat flour, to give it a proper consistence, and then drink it down. I find that it answers every purpose, and eaves me much labor and inconvenience." With his guitar by his side, supported from his shoulder with a silken saeh, like an Eastern Minstrel, he would perambulate the banks of the river to the Whirlpool; and once or twice extended his walk to Lewiston. The in- mates of the houses on the way would suddenly hear the sounds of strange and unknown music, the musician would be observed etanding at a distance in the road, but as soon 08 noticed, or spoken to, would glide away, without giving any reply. The island was his permanent residence for about 20 months. At length, the family removed; and to those few persons with whom he held converse, he expressed bis great satisfaction of having it in his power to live en- tirely alone. For some months, he seemed to enjoy him- self very much, and until another family entered the house. He then concluded to erect a cottage of his own; and as he could not build on the island, he made choice of the high bank of the river, near to and in full view of the Falls; which, of all other objects, it was his delight to behold. He occupied his new residence about two months. On Friday, the 10th of June, 1831, he went twice below the bank of the river, to bathe, and was seen to go a third time. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the ferryman baw him in the water — he was partly floating and partly resting his body on the shelving rocks. As the boat approached, to screen himself from the gaze of 118 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Manner of his death. the passengers, he drew his head under the water. It was not seriously thought of, as he had often been noticed in the same situation, and acting in the same manner. When the ferryman returned, his clothes were seen on the rocks, where he usually deposited them, but he was not there. An examination was immediately made, but his body could not be found It was supposed to have been carried away by the current. " The greedy sursre had swept hijn down, fir, far From mortal ken." On the 21st, the body was taken up at Fort Niagara, was clearly identified, and was on the next day removed and decemly interred in the burial ground at Niagara Falls. Thus terminated the career of the unfortunate Francie Abbott — little, indeed, known to those near whom he spent the two last years of his hfe. Some few gleanings more can only be given. He was an English gentleman, of a respectable family; he was endowed with a good iiiind, highly cultivated; and was eminently pleaeing in iiis niflimers. He was not only master of several langua- ges, but deeply read in the arts and sciences, and pos- sessed all the minor accomplithments of the finished gen- tleman, fasciiiating colloquial powers, and music and i^fawing ip gre^t perfection. Many years of his life hod beqn spent in travelling. He had visited Egypt and Pa- lestiuc; had travelled through Turkey and Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, oad France; and had resided for con- siderable periods of ime in R:>me, Naples, and Paris. JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 119 His cbaracier. "While at the Falls, business brought him in contact with several of the inhabitants, with a few of them he would eometimes be sociable; to all others he was distant and re8cr\-ed. His conversations were always interesting, and his descriptions of countries and people highly glowing and animated. But at times, even with his favored ac- quaintance, he would hold no converse; but communica- ted to them his wishes, on a slate, and would request that nothing might be said to him. He would frequently, for three or four months, go unshaved; often with no covering on his head, and his body enveloped in a blanket; shun- ning all, and seeking the deepest solitude of the island. He composed much, and generally in Latin; but he de- stroyed his compositions almost as fast as he produced them. When his little cot was examined; hopes were entertained that some manuscript or memorial might be found, of his own composition; but he left nothing of the kind. His faithful dog guarded his door, and it was with difficulty it was persuaded aside while it was opened. His cat occupied his bed; and his guitar, violin, flutes, and music book?, were scattered around in confusion. There was a portfolio, and the leaves of a large book; but not a word, not even his name, was written in any of them. Many spots on Iris island are consecrated to the me- mory of Francis Abbott. On the upper end of the itland he had established his walk, and in one place it had be- come trodden and well beaten, Hke that on which a sen- tinel performs his tour of duty. Between Iris and Moss island, there is embowered in seclusion and shade, one of the most charming waterfclls, or cascades, imaginable. 120 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. His walks — his temerity. This was hie favorite retreat for bathing. There he re- sorted at all seasons of the year. In the coldest weather, even when snow was on the ground, and ice in the water, he continued to bathe in the Niagara. On the lower extremity of the island, there was a bridge leading over what are called the Terrapin Rocks; from this bridge there extended a single piece of timber, some twelve or fifteen feet over the precipice. On this bridge it was his daily practice to walk; with a quick step he would pass the bridge, advance on the timber to the extreme point, turn quickly on his heel and walk back; and continue thus to walk for hours together^ — Sometimes he would let himself down at the end of the timber, and hang under it by his hands and feet for fifteen and twenty minutes at a time, and this over a chasm so terrific, as to make dizzy the strongest head. On being remonstrated with, for thus exposing himself, he would reply, that, in crossing the ocean, he had frequently seen the sea-boy in much greater peril; and, as he should pro- bably again pass the sea, he wished to inure himself to such dangers: if the nerves of others were disturbed, his were not. In the darkest hours of the night, he was often found walking alone, in the wildest and most dan- gerous places near the Falls; and at such times he would ehun the approach of men, as if they were unwelcome in- truders on his solicitude. He had a stipend allowed to him by his friends in Eng- land, competent for hie support. He attended to the state of bis accounts, very carefully; was economical in his expenditure of money for his own use; but generous in paying for all favors and services, and never receiving JAUXT TO THE FALLS. 121 His opinion of lUe \le\vs. any thing without making immediate payment. He had a deep and abiding sense of reh'gious duties and decorum; and was mild in hia behavior, and inoffeneive in his con- duct. Religion was a subject he appreciated, and seemed well to understand. The charity he asked from others, he extended to all mankind. What, it will be inquired, could have broken up and destroyed such a mind as his? What drive him from society, which he was so well calculated to adorn, — and what transform him, noble in person and intellect, into an ipolated anchorite, shunning the association of his fellow men ? The mystery he never unfolded, and his friends have remained silent on the subject. He was about twenty-eight years of age, at the time of his death. With the scenery of the Falls, he wag perfectly infat- uated, and expressed himself in the most rapturous terms, when he epoke of the beautiful retreats of Iris island. He was asked why he did not take up his residence in Canndn, under his own government — among his own people; and, as he preferred being near the Falls, he could there select a place to suit him, as the views on that side were considered by many, the best. His reply was, that he preferred this side, because, in all that was interesting and beautiful, the American scenes around the Falls were decidedly superior. 122 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Alexander's Leap. ALEXANDERS LEAP. " My thoughts came back. Where was I 7 Cold, And numb, and giddy; pulse by pulse Life re-assumed its lingering hold ; And throb by tlirob, till grown a pang, AVhich for a moment would convulse. My blood re-flow'd, though thick and chill ; My ear with uncouih noises rang ; My heart began once more to thrill -, My sight returned, though dim, alas ! And thicken'd as it were with glass — Methought the dash of waves was nigh ; There was a gleam, too, of the sky. Studded with stars : it is no dream." At a spot, about thirty rods from the Falls, a thrilling incident occurred in 1836. A number of men, employed upon the Lockport and Niagara Falls railroad, were one night carousing at a small tavern in the village. A dispute, upon some reli- gious subjeet, arose between a party of Irishmen and a few Scotchmen, who happened to be present. The Scotchmen soon found it necessary to retreat to another room ; but the Irish blood, excited with whiskey, was up, and they rushed in upon them, swearing death and destruction upon "Luther's breed." It had become one of those fierce and fatal rows, where reason is lost in passion and intoxication, and in the whirlwind of ex- citement, blows are dealt, and life is taken; and from which, happy is he who can safely retreat. The Scotch- JAUXT TO THE FALLS 123 His fall from the bank. men rushed through the back door and over the fences, hiding themselves behind trees and stumps. They all succeeded in eluding their infuriated pursuers. One of them, however, by the name of Alexander, though he escaped their hands, yet met with an accident still more dreadful. When he got out of the yard of the tavern, he found himself pursued by several persons. He was not acquainted with the place; it was about 9 o'clock, and quite dark; he could see the woods, as he thought, at a distance. lie ran towards them: he was deceived by the brush wood and scattering trees growing along the upper bank of the river. As he entered the wood, he remem- bered slipping: the slope is about 20 feet, and the perpen- dicular height 70 feet : he recollected no more. The next morning, at the bcginnmg of day, he found him- self wounded and bleeding on the rocks. The shelving bank and river on one side, and an insurmountable bar- rier of rock on the other. He had never been to the Falls, and did not know that there were stairs to ascend the bank; but the ebantee, at which the workmen lived, he knew was down the river. In hopes of finding some place to ascend, crushed and bleeding as he was, he made out to gather himself up, and made his way over the rocks, and through the brakes and bushes. In this mutilated state, he crawled along for nearly two miles. The next day, towards noon, his companions began to think of him; and, as there was snow on the ground, his steps were without difficulty traced to where he had gone over the bank. A party was despatched below. Marks of blood, and the manner in which he had drawn himself ailong, soon led them to him. They found him on his 11 124 JAU-VT TO THE FALLS. Fish, and Aiigiin^. feet, he bad a stick in his hands, over which his fingers were clenched through each other, and frozen solid. He was going round and rouud, and was thsn in a bewildered state; and if timely relief bad^not arrived, be would soon have perished. He was wrapped in blankets, and con- veyed to the place where be lived. His body was se- verely injured, and his hands and feet were badly frost- bitten; but, with good medical attendance, and careful nursing, he recovered in about three months, with the loss of some fingers and toes. Yet, he is an enfeebled man, and it is not likely that his former strength will ever be restored. FISH, AND ANGLING. " The silver eel, in shining volumes roH'fl ; The yellow carp, in scales bedeck'd with gold •, Swift trouts, diversified with crimson stains ; And pikes, the tyrants of tlie wat'ry plains." There are several places where fish are taken with hook and line, and pleasant sport is aflforded to those fond of angling. The best places are between the two sheets of water, on Iris island; in the eddy at the ferry, in Canada; and at the Whirlpool and Devil s Hole. There are also, several other places resorted to. The river abounds with a variety of fish: white fish, salmon trout, pike, pickerel, JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 125 Eel3. jierch, sturgeon, cal-fith, white and black bass, the mus- ( alunge, eels, herring, and many other kinds. On the subject o{ fish attempting to ascend the sheet of water, one of the party, a traveller, remarks — ** In ihle, I am reminded how I wm amused, many years ago. When I was a yooth, I M^as at the Falls, on some busi- ness; and, while dinner was preparing, the schoolmaster of the village came in. We commenced talking about the Falls. He communicated to me his Mhole stock vi' infor- mation: and, with other things, gravely informed me that he had sat for hours together, in observing the exertions offish to ascend the sheet of water. They would rise for about eight feet, and then fall back, and attempt it again. Some would spring from the water; others would ascend the sheet by ninscr.lr.r strength." The story mupt be put down as fabulous. Yet, ells do actually ascend from thirty to forty feet, on the rocks, among the moss and grass, where the mist from the Falls constantly descends ; and they have been there j)ickcd up, in considerable quantities : but there is no possibility of their reaching the river above. Eels were not formerly taken on the upper lake; but they have been often caught in the river below, and carri- ed and put alive in the stream above. It was supposed that they again returned, by passing over the Falls; but, for a year or two past, a few messes of fine eels have been caught in the river above, and curried to the Buflyo market. 126 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Hunting grounds, and Game. HUNTING GROUNDS, AND GAME. The whole extent of country lying east of the Falls, on the American side, is well filled with game. This tract is yet new, a large portion of it being in a state of nature, and deer and bears have not entirely disappeared; though the latter is quite a stranger. Sometimes wolves are numerous and troublesome; but among a people with whom the rifle is as familiar as the scythe and reaping hook, their career is but short. Foxes, wild cats, racoons, squirrels, and other wild game, are plenty. Similar descriptions of game are yet found on the islands. For the sportsman, there are ducks, sometimes wild geese, pheasanis, quails, pigeons and woodcocks. The woods of Canada also abound with some kind of game. Large stories have been related, by travellers, of water fowl alighting in the current, above the Falls, and, before they could rise, of being drawn over. One authentic instance can only be mentioned. As a gentleman was standing near the Falls, he saw a duck in the water above. It was playing and gamboling in the rapid stream, just where the water begins to curve over Ihe rock. It plunged in, and rose again, several times. At length, it dived too near the suction of the current, and it was seen no more. After very heavy and dark nights, much game in the morning is frequently picked up, in the river below, such as wild geejBC, ducks, and swans, a bird not common to the country. They fall in the current, in the darkness of JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 127 Road down the lirink. the night, or daeh themselves, in their passage, against the rocks or sheet of water. They are found dead, or dii?ablcd, wilh broken legs or wingcJ. An old English magazine, called the " Magazine of Magazines," pretends to give *'a true account of Niacara Falls, in America." Among other things, it states that the Indians, in their canoes, sometimes passed the Falls in safety. That the quantity of game drawn in, and car- ried over the Falls was so great, that on a time, the French garrison, at Fort Niagara, consisting of JOOO men, becom- ing destitute of provisions, were subsisted for three months on the game picked up below the Falls. Surely, travel- lers, in tho8e dayp, understood how to exaggerate full as well as those of modern times. ROAD DOWX THE BANK. Between eighty and one hundred rods fiom the Falls, the party arrive at a large excavation in the bank. Great quantities of earth have been washed away by the action of water conducted in a race from the rapids for that pur- pose; and masses of the rock have been blasted loose, and thrown down. It is the commencement of a carriage- road to the ferry. The road down the bank, in Canada, was completed fourteen or fifteen years ago, and this was begun soon after. Very little progress was made, and it was soon discontinued. In 1836, was re-commenced, un- 11* 128 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Ship Canal around the Falls. der the auspices of Benjamin Rathbun; and if his opera- tions had not been brought to a cloce, it would soon have been completed. It IS to be regretted that a work eo much required by the citizens of the country, and for the accommodation of the travelling public, should be permitted to linger along from year to year. At an early day the erection of a flight of stairs to descend the buak to the ferry was suffi- cient; but now when the ferry produces a large income, and thousands are annually crossing the river, both on business and for amusement, no description of stairs can give to the public that safe and convenient communication which ought to be afforded, where there is so much pas- sing and re-paseing. It is wrong that travellers should be still obliged to descend long and tedious stair cases. In the road down the bank, and in the Welland canal, the Canadians have gone ahead of American enterprise. The very enterprising gentleman who claims the exclu- sive right of making this road, has listened to public opin- ion, and he has promised that the work shall be immedi- ately commenced upon, and continued untd it ia comple- ted. But as to the great ship canal to connect the two lakes! Forty American vessels have been counted at one time lying in Port Dalhousie, in Canada, waiting to pass thro' the Canadian canal. Will not the western states rouse to action on this all-important subject ? Will they allow this great connecting link between these mighty waters to re- main broken? Or shall the vessels of this proud Republic much longer continue subject to the onerous regulations and exactions of a distant dependency of Great Britain ? JAUNT TO THE PALLS. 129 Indian Ladder. When the road down the bank was first commenced, an Irish laborer was employed on a projecting rock, of several tons weight. Very unexpectedly, the rock gave way, and both went down together. Fortunately, the rock passed down first, struck a heap of earth below, and rolled out of the way. The man fell on the same heap of earth, and was to little injured that in a few days he was able to resume his work. THE INDIAN LADDER. A few rods further, and the guide points out a notch in the bank. Here is the oldest place for descending to the Falls: it ife called the Indian Ladder. The ladder consisted of a cedar tree, lying sloping against the rocks. The natural branches, and notches cut in the body of the tree, were the only slight helps aflTorded to those who went down. The last person known to have descended, was a hunter, by the name of Brooks. He was in pur- suit of some game, which he had shot, and had fallen below. He got about half way down, when he slipped, and fell between twenty and thirty feet, and was badly injured. 130 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Point View, POINT VIEW. " I am on the brink Of the great waters ; and their authentic voice Goes up amid the rainbow and tlie mist, Their chorus shakes the ground." Point View, on the American side, not a new position, as the clear surface of the bank and well trod foot path will show, but one hardly mentioned by any who have written on this subject, was the spot from which Vander- lyn sketched one of his great paintings of the Falls. On the projecting rock at Point View, the spectator stands and beholds the unrivalled prospect which is spread before him. Two hundred feet below the rock from which he looks, lies the calm dark waters of the river, bounded on either side with rock and precipice; the ad- joining shores crowned with native forest trees, and in the distance green meadows, blooming orchards, and rising villages. He looks at the great object of his gaze, with sensations of reverence; the white sheets hanging in mid air; the waters foaming, and hurrying from beneath those that impend above; the spray rushing up from the deep cavern, and rising in clouds, which hang as a pillar of smoke over this sublime sanctuary of nature's mysteries. The rocky base of Iris island, dividing the Falls, with its tall trees tow^ering above the water; the Terrapin rocks on the American side, and Table Rock, in Canada:— JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 131 The Fulls spoken of by oiliers. altogether the scene is, beyond conception, unique and impoeing. It is thought, by some, thnt the tcnne in which the FalU nre spoken of and usually described, are too high and exaggerated. It" the English and Scotch poets are any criterion for descriptive expressions, (and that they are the true standard, all will allow,) so far then from being exaggerated, the terms applied to the Fails are but tame and feeble. Several of the authors allud'.'d to, have afiorded poetical descriptions of jvaterfalls in the United Kingdunif in which all the epithets of beauty and gran- deur have been exhausted in the labored delineation — descriptions so lofty as to leave nothing to add, even when applied to the Falls of Niagara. Look at the objects as nature presents thera: a brook or mill-race, to a mighty river — a pond, to an ocean. Indeed there is no term of our language too high, or idea of our inuigination ade- (jualely comprehensive to describe this profound and im- pressive scene. The mind, awe-struck, is overwhelmed nnd lobt amid the elemental strife. And it is not only so as regards the Fnll^, but the whole of that portion of the Niagara rivt'r, from the commencement of the rapids below Navy laland, to the eddying and heavy current at Lewjslon, is, without doubt, one of the most wonderful of the works of nature, and allbrds scenes, with but few exceptions, more sublime and terrible than is exhibited in any other laml. The travellers having now completed their tour to all the most interesting points along the bank, conclude to retiirn to the hotel. 182 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Village of Niagara Falls, VILLAGE OB^ NIAGARA FALLS. " Lead on — to yonder v:il:jge lead, Where heaven has liappiucss decreed For those the blessings prize ; Who seek, in solitarj' ease, Such joys as innocently please, Nor wish for other joys." In 1805, Augustus Porter, Peter B. Porter, Benjamin Barton, and Joseph Annin, Esqrs. became, by purchase of the Stnte of New- York, the proprietors of a considera- ble tract of land, lying immediately adjacent to the Falls of Niagara. They laid out a village, which was called Grand Niagara, but was soon changed to Manchester^ This name it retained for several years; but, as much in- convenience arose, from there being several others places in the State of the same name, it was altered to Niagara Falls, which is the name of the post office. In 1813, the village was burnt by the enemy. After the war, the citi- zens returned, and it has very gradually increased, since then, in buildings and inhabitants. In 1836, the survey of the village was greatly extended; the lands became in great demand, and large sales could have been made at enormous prices; and some lots were sold. The water power, at this place, is unlimited; and at some distant day must come largely in use, for manufac- turing puriDOses. There is now one large grist mill, two saw mills, a woollen manufactory, a trip hammer shop, furnace, and two machine shops. There is also, two JAUNT TO THE PALLS. 133 Village of Niagara Falls. blacksmiths' shops, two cabinet makers' shop, one shop for the manufacture of railroad care, four merchants' shops; one public library, several splendid hotels, and three other public houses; two public schools, one classical Institute, and one select school for young ladies; eighty-five dwel- lings of all kinds, and upwards of seven hundred inhabi- tants. The location is commended for its healthiness, and for rural beauty, it is unexcelled. It affords the finest places for residences, for tho, who liids the deep in wihliiess flow ; \\'\\o lieavcs the mii^hly flood from rock to rock, And sends it dashing to the dark abyss, Wiicre il doih thunder forth His glorious might. And speak rtrrnaily Jehovah's praise. Scarce less I love lo gaze upon tlic circling foanj Ai:d silv'ry mist — for, on tlicir milder front, I hchoUl the sweet bow of promi.se, arched — That l)ow, which, when refulgent on his eyes, And first was sent lo cheer his heart, Who mourn'd the ruins of a world,— to him It apoke of hope, and peace, and future calm. And, as awe struck, I gaze on yonder flood. All terrible in wild sublimity. Trembling I turn away; — then do I love To fix my eyes on the bright pledge of hope. And think that He who gave it to he ours Is not a God omnipotent alone. But is a God of love — eternal love." Niagara Falls, 3d Aug. 18-35." 12 ■i ! I If II fiiliiii' A JAUNT IRIS AND OTHER ISLANDS, l.V THE VICIMTT OF NIAGARA FALLS " S;iy, sliall we wind Along llie streams ? or w:tll< ilie smiling mead ? Or court ilic forrst glade ? " There are Bevcral islands, which, from their locality and peculiar position in reference to the Falls, have attracted the attention and curiosity of strangers; and a visit, to some of them, is never neglected by those who have an opportmiity. The one most interesting is Iris, or, as it is commonly called, Goat Island. Many years since, a resident at Schlosser, put some goats on the island, and hence the name. The present proprietors have given it the name of Iris island. As that is very appropriate, it is proper that it should be generally adop- ted. 140 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Iris Island. It lies in latitude 43 deg. 6 min. and longitude 2 deg. 5 sec. west from Washington city; and contains between eixty and seventy acres. Though the soil is an accumu- lation of earth upon a heap of rocks, yet it is very fertile, producing all the native plants of the country in great luxuriance. A circuit round it, which visitors usually take, is about a mile. By the boundary commissioners, who were appointed under the treaty of Ghent, it was very properly adjudged to belong to the United States; and the Indian title being extinguished, it fell into the hands of private individuals. Just at the upper end of the island, commence the terrific rapids that lead on to the Falls. There the river divides; the main body passing on the south-western side, and the leseer on the north- eastern. The lower end of the island is like the main shore below the Falls — a perpendicular bank, from sev- enty to ninety feet, and thence, to the water's edge, a sloping precipice of from one hundred to one hundred and twenty feet. A small portion of the island has been cleared off, and is in a state of cultivation; but the prin- cipal part is yet covered with native forest trees, of vari- ous kinds: through the density of some of which, when covered with their rich foliage, the rays of the sun are seldom admitted. In making the tour of the island, occasion will be taken to mention and describe such other islands that lie in the Niagara river, as have in any way drawn ih» attention of the public. JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 141 Jaunt to the Island. JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. ** Go to the cool and shady bowers, Where flow the wild cascades ; Stroll through eacii green and deep recess, And dark romantic glades. Then, rest thee, on the mossy bank, Or onwnnl further stray. And giizc upon the mighty stream, Tliat winds its course away." The party leave the hotel, and turn down a short street, called Bridge etreet. They fall into conversation with the tjuide, making such inquiries of him as are usually interesting to travellers, and such as are commonly made. The information which follows, is in answer to such questioiifl: Besides seeing the Falls, travellers, who remain for any length of time, find various amusements. The pleasure Grorden, comprising about one acre of ground, a few rods south of the Falls, is an attractive place. It affords n fine view of the Falls, and the enter- tainments offered by the proprietor are of a very superior order; and especially his evening exhibitions of fire -works. For variety and brilliancy they are unsurpassed. For thoae who like in-door exercise, there is a ball or ten-pin alley. There is, also, in the village, got up exclusively for the use of travellers, several billiard tables. There is a library; and at another place a reading-room; but the locality itself, in general, affords abundant amuse- ment for several days. 12* 142 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Amusements. Some resort to the baths : others bathe in the river. Some amuse themselves in fishing ; others in fowling, and in seeking after the great bald eagle. Some of the noblest of the species have been found in this quarter ; specimens of which are to be eoen at Mr. Barnet's mu- seum, in Canada. The generality of travellers ride to those places which it has become fashionable to visit. Old Fort Schlosser, up the river — the mineral spring — the Whirlpool — the Tuscaroras Indian village — and Fort Niagara. Besides these, considerable time may be spent most pleasantly in a trip to Canada. On Sunday, some travellers go to church, in the vil- lage; others go to the meeting-house of the Indians; some ride to the places mentioned; and some promenade round the island and Falls. The party are descending a small declivity, towards the bridge, to the island. Traveller. — "Indeed, this prospect is very grand; those majestic waves, bounding and curving along, and that bridge lying at rest over them ! Here is nature, in aU her might; and the art of man triumphing over obslaclea appearing almost insurmountable." THE BRIDGE TO THE ISLAND. The construction of this bridge appeared almost incre- dible to an individual who happened to be at this place when the work was going forward. One or two of the JAL'NT TO THE ISLANDS. 143 Krid2e lo Uic Island. piers only were Inid down. He enquired of the workmen ibe object of the bridge, and to where it was going. " To the island," wna the reply. "I don't want lo live any longer," enid the stranger, ** than until you get this bridge to tbe island." He could not be convinced that its con- Btruction waa practicable. It was built by first erecting piers near the shore; long timbers were then projected beyond them. After which, two substantial posts or studs were let down, and rested or» the bottom, at the end of the projecting timbers, which were firmly secured to them, and supported them, until a smiiU crib filled with stones, was sunk. Then the large timbers for the piers were framed, put d' is doubted, but it is not altogether incredible. Some years ago, the construction of a bridge over the roughest part of the river, to the same place, would have been considered more impracticable than the performance juat mentioned. 148 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. The Grove — Hog's Back. On ascending the hill, from the bridge, three walke are presented : one to the right, leading to the Biddle stair-case and to the Horse Shoe Fall; the one in front, goes directly across the island; and the one to the left, passes near the edge of the bank, to the upper end. The party continue the jaunt, taking the road leading to the Biddle stair-case. It is the course usually taken. On advancing a short distance, they enter a lofty grove of trees, through which the walk passes for some distance. It is one of those delicious places for which nature has done every thing, and to which art can add nothing. The road that passes through it, accomplishes all that ever should be done, and the sound of the axe should never bo heard upon these trees, to disturb the stillness which reigns around this spot, or to profane what nature seems to have consecrated. As the road nears the lower end of the island, the height of the bank, from the edge of the water, increases; from which circumstance, it appears, this part of the isl- and has received the name of the Hog's Back. The nfime is considered very inapplicable; but, as some travellers have spoken of the Hog's Back, as being something pecu- liar, it has been thought proper thus succinctly to refer to it. At the northwest comer of the island there is a fine prospect of the river, of Canada, and of the American Falls, suitably so termed, as they are entirely within the United States. The actual boundary is in the centre of the river, between the island and Canada, and must be about the middle of the Horse Shoe Falls. By some means or other, the public have been led into a mistalce on this JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 149 Prospect Island. eubject, and it has been by many supposed that the prin- cipal Falls were in Canada. Some have even spoken of "the Niagara Falls, in Canada." The truth is, a portion of the Falls is exclusively in the State of New- York, and nlw) half of the main channel, as it constitutes the boun- d&ry line. PROSPECT ISLAND. " Where Icapd The lorrciit in its wild career, While shake its barriers, as in fear." From the point of Iris island, fronting the American Falls, descends a path towards Prospect island, sometimes called Mrs. Davie's iela id. as, while she was visiting the Falls, a foot bridge was thrown over to it, and on its extreme point she planted a few seeds of the everlasting pea, which were oliserved some years afterwards in bloom, with their beautiful little flowers hanging over the side of the bank, near the Cave of the Winds. The bridge, to this island, is generally carried away in the winter, and replaced again in the summer. It is worth crossing over, to ramble through the tangled evergreens, to look down the high bank, and enjoy the prospect which is there dis- played. 13 150 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. In graham' s Cave. "The weeping rocks distil, with constant dews ; The gushing waters pensive thoughts infuse. Here a vast arch, the cavity so wide, Scarce can the eye extend from side to side. High o'er tlie roof alternate echoes wave, And sound in distant thunders, through the cave." This cave was first discovered by Joseph W. In graham, Esq. who gave it the name of the Cave of the Winds, one as applicable as any that can be used; yet, the public, de- sirous to award some meed of their esteem to the amiable discoverer, have, in many instances, evinced a desire to use his name, and call it Ingraham's Cave. It was first entered by Mr. George Sims and Mr. Berry Hill White, of Niagara Falls village. They passed over the rocks, and through a part of the sheet of water. It was, they alleged, difficult and hazardous, but they acknowledged theniselves fully rewarded in the new and magnificent scene which the lofty cavern presented. Mr. Ingraham soon afterwards visited it himself, and Horatio A. Parsons, Esq. and a few others, have since ventured in. It is represented to be near one hundred and twenty feet wide, about thirty feet deep, and a noble arch hanging over head eighty feet high, and the sheet of water rolling in front. It is said to be quite a;i adventure to go under Table Rock: it is a much greater one, to visit this cavern. The following beautiful lines arc taken from Mr. Hook- er's Album: JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 151 Tlie Bidillp; Hlair-case. Dread awe-inspiring cavern ! '3Iong tlie new, Wild, wond'roiis objerts that around I view. None strikes my ^oul like Uice 1 Thou seem'st to me The very portal of suldimity ! And nature — as if dreading; to expose The hiilden mysteries of her inighiy throes — Hath thrown over thee a wide-spread, beauteous veil. Woven from the air-hnng wairrs — snatcliej from out Their woniC;l chaiiiiel for this strong avail — A till dyed it wiiii the loveliest tints throughout,— E'en frinired it with a rainbow ! Mighty cave ' Wliai sliall we e^l the ? Wluil name could'st thou have More til than his, who first thy depths did scan — First ope'd thy rocky doors to wond'ring man ? Yes : while tierce winds thy vaulted arches sweep, And thy wild shores the rushing wtiters lave. Or thunder there terrific vigiU keep, — Be thou forever known as I.vgraham's Cave ! A. II. P., of Georgia." THE RIDDLE STAIU-CASE. The pnrly, after their progress to Prospect island, re- trace tbeir steps, and continue their route to the Biddle stnir-cnse. This convenience, for descending the bank, was erected at the expense of Nicholas Biddle, Esq. It was a great desideratum to travellers, to be enable to reach this part of the island, to range along over the rocks, and to advance near the sheets of water. The stairs are of the spiral form, well secured from the weather, and abofit 152 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Horse Shoe Falls. eighty feet high. Near the foot of these stairs, at the edge of the water, Sam. Patch, in 1829, made two leaps from a platform, ninety-seven feet high, erected for the purpose. Sam. came off with credit here; but shortly after, the poor fellow made two leaps at Rochester, — one from the height of one hundred feet, and the other of one hundred and twenty-five feet. The last proved fatal; he did not rise, and was never found. After the travellers have proceeded below, and gone, as near the sheets of water on each side as they desired, and had pointed out to them all the objects of interest, they return, and resume their walk along the brow of the bank. THE HORSE SHOE FALLS. " Thou fearful stream ! How do thy terrors tear me from my myself, And fill my soul with wonder !"' This sublime prospect opens to view suddenly, between the trees. The rainbow, seen below, encompassing a cloud of spray, is as beautiful, with all its mellow tints of coloring, as the same object appears after a summer's shower. The rainbows are seen according to the position of the spectator with that of the sun. In the morning, they are viewed from this side; in the afternoon from the British side. At night, when the moon shines brightly, a lunar bow encircles the Falls, with rays well defined, but pale JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 153 Prospect Tower. and murky. On ruch nights, large parties of visitors cnngrcyate on the island, and melancholy influences seem to pervade every bo3om. The mind instinctively feels the sentiment of the poet — " Oh nioon ! thou bright, tliou beautiful ! How many are the scenes of woe on which Tiiy pure li;rlu beamelh 1" The cnroi)tured sentimentalist lingers around this scene, rnnversatioii is conducted in lowly whispers, and the mind becomes wrapped in sad and unwonted meditations. The great Fails, the lovely raoon coursing its way through the high firmament, the pale arch which spans the cata- ract, the sombre woods, the deep mysterious gulf, the runhing waters, all combine powerfully to affect the mind. No noisy conviviahty, no boisterous mirth prevails at such limes, and no sound is heard except the deep and hollow roar of the Fulls. Thai this is nut an imaginary picture, every one who has witnesped the scene will allow. In the centre of the Horpe Shoe Falls, the water is of a pure green color, and is adjudged to be about twenty foci deep. PROSPECT TOWER. This is a circular building, with an ohservntory on the top, built below the point of the island, among the Ter- rapin rocks. From the observatory is presented a full 13* 154 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Impressions of Visitors. view into the very midst of the great Falls, and into the great chasm below. " It bubl)Ies up, it gurgles forth, it hisses and it roars, As when on raging fire a stream of gushing water pours ; Wild sheets of foam shoot through the air, waves thunder towards heaven, As forth from out the black abyss the billowy flood ia driven." The timber and fragments that are scattered around, are the remains of a bridge, built by Gen. Whitney, a part of which projected over the bank. It was on a single projecting timber of this bridge, that it was usual for Francis Abbott to walk, and, at the extreme end, turn on his heel and walk back. The Terrapin bridge should be re-built. It afforded an unqualled prospect into the white and misty chasm. And to spectators at a distance, the Hght bridge hanging over the clouds and rainbow below; the moving forms upon it, surrounded by the flickering spray; now seen, and anon hid from view, gave to the scene an impressive interest deeply felt by every sentimental mind. THE IMPRESSIONS OF VISITORS. " When nature's might some wond'rous scene unfolds, And awe-struck man the glorious work beholds, In silence fix'd — th' enrapt nnagination — More than loud words, shows forth its admiration." It is frequently inquired, what are the usual impres- sions of visitors? They are various. A very few think JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 155 Painful impression. lighlly of the Falls, or express surprise that others are so nbsorbed and plen.ned with them. Such persons usually remark, " Is this all? I have been deceived!" or the cli- max of their admiration is expressed in — " Oh 1 what a place to sponge a coat '." Some are so much moved, as to form a lasting attach- ment, and visit them often, even from great distances. Others have been completely infatuated, and seem only to live in beholding this sublime work, of nature, and in inhaling the pure though mist-impregnated atmosphere, which arises from the broken waters. Some look upon the Falls with feelings of drend, and the impressions they leave on their minds, are those of terror. Many years since, when travelling, I fell in with a party at a public house. Niagara Falls happened to be- come a topic of conversation. " The Falls," said a lady who was present, '' I saw them three months ago, and neither sleeping or waking, are they out of my mind. 1 hear them roar, and see them before me continually." ** Is their impression painful or pleasant ?" I enquired. ** Oh, very painful and distressing I They are dread- ful ! " was her reply. When a party of Indians, from the far west, were on their return from Washington, they were brought this way. When they saw the Falls, they evinced emotions of reverence, and cast their pipes, wampum, and several trinkets, in the water, as offerings to the Mighty Spirit of the place. Many gentlemen have expressed themselves as expe- 156 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Winter scenes. riencing very strange sensations, while beholding the Falls. Fear — a perception of weakness — trembling of the nerves; but the predominant sensations are those of reverence. Traveller. — " Such sensations are becoming the place; for who can look upon these rising clouds, this rush of many waters, these walls of solid rock, and this abyss of foam, without reverencing Him who made them, and upholds them still." WINTER SCENERY. — " Who can paint Like nature ? Can imagination boast, Amid its gay crr^alion, iiiies like liers?" The Falb, in winter, present a very different appear- ance from that of any o1bcr soai?on of the year. Large quantities of ice accumulate in the river below, which, gradually gathering in the eddies with that which is brought from above, join together, and form a natural bridge. This bridge of ice extends, frequently, to within a short distance of the sheet of water, and to the rapids, two miles below. It is in places from twenty to forty feet thick. On the rocks, such large quantities of snow JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 157 Winter scenery. nnd congealed mist collect, as to form pyramids, reaching nlinoBt to the upper surface of the Falls. On the perpen- dicular banks are suspended huge icicles, of the most fanciful shapes, which are white as alabaster, and appear nt a distance like magnificent columns. But the most !)eautiful sight is the spray congealed upon the surroun- ding trees and shrubs. Every branch is incrustcd. It looks like a forest of coral, but of dazzling whiteness. Towards the close of the day, in winter, when the rays of the declining sun passes through the rising cloud ot mist, it appears as if tinged with burnished gold, or as a bright flame of fire, floating in mid air. This, with the trees, in their dress of perfect whitenc6=i, makes the scene 6o novel, so strange, that it appears like fair>--work, or ns one of enfbantnient. Nothing is wanted but the ice jjalace of Catharine of Russia, to make it like a perfect winter paradise to the ey£. The eye only can be de- lighted; to every other sense, it is the very essence of frost and cold — of vapor and glittering snow: a meet place for ancient winter's court. Travellers who have visited the Falls, in the winter, say that when the trees are thus arrayed, the views affor- ded are superior to those of summer. Just to look on, for a short period, it is, indeed, unequalled; but you must soon hurrj' away to the warm rooms of the hotels. In summer, you can ramble through the groves, where na- ture is clothed in her beautit^il dress of green; then, you pass from scene to scene — "all nature smiles." Noth- ing can compaie with the beauty as well as grandeur of this place while puiumer holds her cheerful and happy reign. 158 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Shrubs and Plants — Insects. SHRUBS AND PLANTS. "Summer] deJicious summer ! tliou dost fling Thy unhonght treasures o'er the gloru)us earth'. Music is in thy step, and in thine eye A flood of sunshine ! On thy l)row is wreathed Cariands that vvitlier not, and in thy breath Are all the perfumes of Arabia 1" It has been reported, that there are many plants found on Iris island, not common to the surrounding country. This is not correct; but there is, certainly, in the small space of the island, a greater variety of plants to be ob- tained, than at any other place. For this reason, many visitors are in the practice of collecting herbariums of such as they fancy. There is one peculiarity reputed of this island, which is a desideratum vainly desired at many places. It is, that there are here no musketoes, or other insects, to an- noy or interrupt the repose of those who seek these se- cluded bowers. This has been contradicted ; but, in support of the assertion, an individual, who has resided for over twenty years at the Falls, states that, during that time, he has not seen a dozen musketoes, nor been bit by one; and that he has often visited the island, and never observed an insect of this description on it. The party, in advancing along the path, by the side of the river, come to a place where the walk is suddenly terminated by the caving in of the bank. JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 159 Vessels sent over Ihe Falls. The river, at this spot, has made advances on the shore several hundred feet ; and the road, which a few years ai^o was made to encircle the island, is here for some distance washed away. The water is continuing its devastating power, most forcibly. A large piece of the island will soon be carried over the Foils, or a new channel will be fcrrmed, dividing it in twv. VESSELS SENT OVER TJiE FALLS. " Like llice. full nian} u ^ulluiil li; rk Il.olc:* on its l"ii!"(i \v:iy ; Tlie \N .iNe, til'' ;iiilf, llie f;ivern diirk, Ope' to receive tlieir prey." The party, being on a position that cnnimnndcd a view of the ve;-s«'ls going down the river, and paseing over the Falls, some account of them is usually requested. The schooner Michigan, an old merchant vessel, of lake Erie, was dismantled, with the exception of the masts, and rigging enough to hold them up, and sent over in Sep- tember, 1827; and the Superior was sent over in Octo- ber, two years after. They were towed to the centre of the stream, between Navy island and Canada, and let loose. The Michigan came majestically along; figures, representing men, were placed at proper stations, and a niunbcr of animals, both domestic and wild, were on board. 160 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Vessels passing over the Falls. The putting of animals on board, for certain destruc- tion, for mere amusement, was not generally approved; but, in extenuation, it was said that none had been taken but the useless and vicious, and euch as would have been destroyed, if they had not been selected for this purpose. Onward the vessel floated, the river was smooth, and all was quiet on board. The poor animals, having been tormented as they had passed through the hands of the vicious and unfeeling, tired and worn out, had laid them- selves on the deck and in corners, to rest. She arrived at the first descending swell, and passed down gallantly. All was yet in repose on board; she came to a more ra- pid descent; was tossed to and fro, and the animals were seen running about from one place to another. Bruin was more actively engaged than others, amid the doom- ed throng, he took an observation from the rigging, which he ascended, and then returned to the deck. Still very near the centre of the river she passed along. An- other, and a greater pitch is made — her bow points to- wards the Falls — she rocks from side to side — vainly she labors to pass the rocky reef: — the masts go by the board. One deep descent more: she groans harshly over the verge — her bow descends, and with an astounding crash, falls upon the rocks; she breaks in two — the tim- bers sink to the water's edge — and the whole moves on, a floating, broken mass, and pass over the Falls. The bear, and one or two other animals^ reached alive the Canada shore, above the Falls: all the others perished. Between fifteen and twenty thousand persons came to- gether, to witness this sight. The large vessel, called the Superior, which was sent JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 161 Mos<» Island. over in 1829, did not proceed in its voyage of destruction in such gallant style. She lodged on the rocks, and re- mained there for several daye, and went over unobserved, except by two or three persons. In Ihis instance no ani- mals were put on board. MOSS ISLAM). '• In bcuuiifiil wildiicss il \\ hirls away, Wasting its weallh in feuUjery sprny." The walk round the island passes ncnr to the beautiful ptream of water, which runs on the north side of Moss island. This stream is overhung and enshrouded with trees and evergreen ehrubs, whose leaves dip in the sil- vered water as it glides along. In its course, there is a most lovely water-fall, in miniature, and which Francis Abbott used as his shower bath. The adjacent spot is called Mors island, on account of the mospy and velvet- like appearance of its surface. On this island, Abbott wished to build a rustic cottage. As he described it, it was to be of rough materials, with latticed windows, and to be covered with moss and evergreen creeping vines. To the island he proposed to have a bridge, in unison with the cottage, with a draw attached to it, that, when he desired to be alone, ho might be secure from all in- 14 162 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. The Hermitage. trusion, and he himself the maeler of a small and solitary domain: *' Recluse, and hid from every eye, Save that of smiling heaven." Such additions would have been quite an attraction, and the hermit, himself, a great curiosity. He appears to have been just the kind of man required to animate these wild romantic scenes. On the subject, he observ- ed, " On some of the great estates in England, where the proprietors seek to give a romantic interest to their possessions, a forest or some retired glen is chosen, where a hermitage is erected, and a man hired to play the her- mit. When the owner passes over his estate, with his friends, the hermit, with his flowing beard, and dressed in antique costume, receives them at the hermitage." He would conclude, by saying, ** 1 desire to live alone; I voluntarily wish to retire from the world. It suits me not to mingle with mankind." The islands lying beyond Moss island, are not accessi- ble, excepting in some severe winters, when the ice and snow is driven around them, and dammed the water off; at such times they have been visited by a few persons. The httle island which lies between this and the Canada shore, and which just rises above the water, is called Gull island, from the circumstance of its being the resort of great numbers of birds, of that species. There they live secure and unmolested by man. Some years ago, a bridge from the island to Canada, to pass over Gull island, was a favorite project with some gentlemen. JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 163 Navy liland. It would have been a great undertaking; and, if com- pleted, a curiosity not less interesting than the Falls. Having arrived at the head of the island, where an un- obstructed prospect of the river ia presented, several ob- jects are elicited by the inquiries of travellers. They are comprised in the notices which follow. NAVY ISLAND. '•Tlicre is a pleasure in the patblesd woods ; Tlicrc is a rapture on tlie lonely shore -, There is society, where none intrudes. liy the deep wave, and music in its ro:ir : I love not man the le^s, but nature more." This ieland contains three hundred acres of land. It belongs to Canada, the main channel running between that and the American shore. Opposite to Navy island, is Street's point, in Canada. It was once a navy yard of the British, and late the residence of Captain Usher, one of the persons concerned in the Caroline affair, and who was assassinated in December, 18.38. THE LOV/ FAMILY. " Ah 1 ne\ or shall the land forfret How guslieJ the life-blood of her brave — Gushed, warm with hope and valor yet, Upon the soil they fought to save." Prior to the last war, and before Navy island was ad- judged to belong to the British, Mr. John Low made some 164 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Lieutenant Low. improvements, and built a house on the eastern end. He resided there with his family. They were Americans by birth and in principle, and of very respectable character and connexions. When the war broke out, they left the island, and took up their residence on the mountain, near Bloody Run. At the battle of Queenston, so unfortunate to the American arms, old Mr. Low promptly volunteered as one of the pilots, to conduct the boats. While thus employed, he was fatally wounded, and died soon after. His son, John, at the time of his father's death, had just engaged in the practice of the lavy, in the county of Niagara; but gave Hp the prospect of a lucrative practice to serve his country, and accepted a heutenancy in the army. In the disastrous clo&e of the year 1813, when the destruction of all the villages and settlements on the Ni- agara river was eifected by the combined forces of the English and Indians, Lieut. Low was at old Fort Schlos- ler, of which, however, there was then, and has been since, nothing remaining but the name. The British force that scoured along the border, was overwhelming. The lieutenant, with a few men, waited the approach of the enemy, and made s^ch resistance as they eould. He was shot, and his men saved themselves by flights After the soldiery had secured the plunder, they took the body of Low, and laying it on a table in the hall of the ancient Schlosser house, set the building on fire. This, and all the other houses in the place, were con- sumed. A brother, by the name of Vincent, when the war was over, entered the military academy, at West Point. — JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Ifi.") Williniii Chainberg. About a year after, on the occasion of firing a salute, the cannon burst, and bo was killed. His monument at ^Vc8t Point records tbc mclancbolv event. wii.i.r.vM (h.\:mbkrs. " No voirr rniiiO:^ to liiin oVr Ihc vast of wavr^. But llic wild (lasliiiig of ilic uiirclf'n'.ing surge " In Ibe nccounts of the ofTair of Navy Inland, an old woman is menlioncd as being the oidy inhabitant when Mackenzie's men took jKissespion. She was the widow of William Chaniberp, an individual among the early eet- llers of the count rj', of some notoriety. He was one of those persons often found upon the frontier of two na- tions; sometimes living in one, and at another time living in the other: tnking a part equally with citizens or subjects in politicnl afTnirp, and entering with interest in matters nnd things incident to the nation in which he happened to be. In Canada, a mn3t loyal subject; in the United States, most vocitVrous in the support o( the doniinnnt party. At the commencement of the war with England, he residod in the United Stales, a few miles in the renr of Fort Niagara. At one period, he was suspected of car- rying on a correspondence with the British, but no evi- dence appeared agninst him. When, however, the country was overrun by tbc enemy, he remained at home 14* 166 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. AViUiam Chambers. uiiDaolested; and he and a few others, after that period, kept up a communication with them, at Fort Niagara. It was not generally believed that his intercourse with them was of a criminal character. With his neighbors, he passed as a very easy, obhging man, designing evil to no one. He was one of the pioRcers of Niagara county, and a genuine leather-stocking. He was among the first that opened the woods on the lake shore, at Eighteen-mile Creek. He would frequently sell out, as is usual with persons of his description, and realizing a email profit on his labor, would pay ofl" his debts and commence anew. His Inst residence was at Navy island, under the juris- diction of Canada: his principal occupation was huntiag, trapping, and fishing. Grand island, and the other id- ands in the river, abounded with game. The muskrat was the chief object of pursuit, being the most numerous, and atfording the best return: coons were also plenty — the meat was acceptable, and the skins sold readily. The niink, the fox, and the otter., afibrded him more valuable furs. To these, he occasionally added the deer, the bear, and wolf. He had arrived to near sixty years of age, when, one very stormy night, in the month of December, he and another person came to a farm house, near the river, about seven miles above the Falls. They said they had been up the river, and had purchased a barrel of whiskey, which they had with them in the canoe. They staid an hour, and at nine o'clock, departed. They were advised to remain: the severity of the storm, the darknnss of the JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 167 Expedition to Navy Island. night, and the danger of the river, were urged upon them; but Chambers was confident in his ability to " get over the bay." They lauched their frail canoe in the rapid stream: for a moment only, after leaving the shore, they were distinguishable — they were then lost in the driving tempest; and men or canoe were never more heard oC They went over the Falls. THE EXPEDITION TO NAVY ISLAND, AND THE STEAMBOAT CAROLINE. " Xiglit's blessed spell hath now Lulled every sound of earth in slumber deep. The sad heart iiulh awhile forgot its woe — The weary frame its toil ; but such sweet sleep Brings not its lialiii to soothe ttis fevered brain aud brow." About the middle of the month of December, 1837, twenty-eight men, principally Canadians, with Rens- selaer Van Rensselaer, and William Lyon Mackenzie, went on Navy island. They called to them the patriots of Canada, and all others the friends of that cause. In the space of three weeks, between three and four hun- dred responded to the call; some from the United States, and some from Canada. They brought with them arms and provisions. They staid on the island for one month, and then, at their own choice, left it, and not in fear of their opponents. Opposite to them, were assembled five 168 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Steamboat Caroline. tboueand men, consisting of British regulars, incorpo- rated militia, and a body of Indians and Negroes, Bat- teries were erected, and balls and shells were at intervals cast upon the island. The islanders were incessantly in a state of danger and alarm; yet they would, at times, provokingly return the fire. For a month, a raw, undis- ciplined band of men, in the severity of winter, with no shelter but such as they then constructed, and miserably clad, set at defiance and laughed at the overwhelming force, which lay so near to them, that they frequently conversed together. Let justice be done to them; and, however, by contending parties they may be differently esteemed, there must be awarded to them the praise of being as enduring and as brave a set of fellows as ever assembled together. They left the island because the United States would not countenance them, and in ac- cordance with the wishes of American citizens, who in- terposed to effect their dispersion. An expression of one of the leaders, before leaving, was — "I fiar not my enemies, but my friends." There is an occurrence connected with the Navy island affair, painful to relate. The steamboat Caroline came from Buffalo, on the 29th of December, it was said, to ply as a ferry-boat between Schlosser and Navy island. It passed, that day, forth and back several times, and before sun-down was brought to at the wharf, at Schlosser, and moored for the night. At that place, there was but one house, and that a tavern. The warlike movements between the patriots and British, had drawn to the frontier, through motives of curiosity, a great number of persons. The tavern was crowded — JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 169 Beacon Light. lodgings could not be obtained — and several persons, ob- serving the steamboat, sought for accommodalions on board, and were received. In the middle of the night, the watch, for a watch on board steamboats is usually kept, saw something advancing on the water. He hailed, but before he could give the alarm, a body of armed men rushed on board, shot at the sentinel, and all they met, crying — "Cut them down!" "Give no quarters!" No arms were on board of the boat; no attack was ex- pected; and no resistance was made. Some got on shore uninjured ; others were severely cut and dangerously wounded. One man was shot dead on the wharf, and twelve were missing, either killed, or burnt and sunk with the boat. They towed the boat out in the river, and set it on fire; the flames burst forth; it drifted slowly, and its blaze shone far and wide over the water and adjacent shores. On the Canada side, at a distance above Chippewa, was burning a large light, as a signal to those engaged in the expedition. In a short time, an astounding shout came booming over the water: it was for the success and return of those who had performed this deed. The beacon was extinguished. The Caroline still mo- ved on, and cast its lurid light far and wide, clothing the scene in gloom and horror; and just below the i)oint of iris island, suddenly disappeared. Many of the wrecked and charred remains were, the next morning, floating in the current and eddies below the Falls. In justice to both sides, it should be stated, that the accounts of the different parties connected with the de- struction of the Caroline, differ entirely from each other, 170 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Grand Island. as to the character of the vessel, the resistance made by the persons on board, the number killed, and in various other particulars. These the author leaves to be settled by the politicians of the two nations. The account which he has adopted, is the one most strongly impressed upon the American public. OWANUNGA, OR GRAND ISLAND. "Here, lofty trees, to ancient song unknown, The noble sons of potent beat and floods." This island is twelve miles long, and between six and seven wide. It lies mid-way between the Falls and Lalie Erie, and contains seventeen thousand acres of land. It is principally covered with large and valuable timber, and the soil is rich and productive. In 1816 and '17, a number of persons, from the United States and Canada, went on this island. They marked out the boundaries of their different possessions; elected magistrates, and other officers, from among themselves; and gave out that they were amenable to neither govern- ment, but an independent community. After the ques- tion of boundary was settled, the State of New- York passed a law to drive them off"; but that was not effected till the severe measure was resorted to, of destroying their houses, which was done by the sheriff" and posse of Erie county. JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 171 Burni Sliip Creek. Grand island was selected by Major Noah, of New- York, on which to build a city, and establish a colony of Jews, with the view of making it the Ararat or resting place of that dispersed people. There it was anticipated that their government would be organized, and thence the laws would emanate which were again to bring together the children of Israel, and re-establish them as a nation of the earth. The European Rabbi did not sanction the scheme, and it vanished as a day-dream of the learned and worthy projector. A company, from Boston, have since become the pro- prietors; and the great improvements they have made, evince a noble spirit of enterprise. BLCK HORN ISLAND. At the north-eastern point of Grand island, lies Buck- Horn island. It is long and narrow, and contains one hundred and fifty acres. It was occupied first by David Mudget, a veteran ofJicer of the American Revolution. He made a small improvement; but, obtaining a pension, in 1819, he removed. Burnt Ship Creek lies between Buck-Hom and Grand island. In 1759, the French, in preference of their ves- sels falling into the hands of the British, burnt them at this place. Their remains are yet observable, and con- siderable iron has been obtained from them; and, not long 172 JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. Fort Schlosser. since, some timber, sufficiently firm to work into walk- ing canes. Two miles from the Falls, and near the steamboat landing, is Comer's island. Three miles further, and opposite Cayuga creek, is Cayuga island. Six miles further, and opposite Tonawanda, is Tona- wanda island. Between that and Lake Erie, there are several others, of greater or less magnitude. The next object to which the attention of the traveller is directed, is Porter's storehouse, or the steamboat land- ing. It is the end of ship navigation, on the American side of the Niagara, and is the proposed point for the commencement of the great ship canal, around the Falls; a work which the extensive and populous countries on the upper lakes are requiring, and will urge forward until accomplished. At this place, the persons going on the Navy island expedition, embarked; and it is there that the steamboat Caroline lay, when she was cut out. Nearly a mile below the landing, are the remains of old Fort Schlosser. The name is derived from the Ger- man, and means castle. It was anciently a stockade, built upon banks sHghtly raised above the plain. From the remains, it appears that there were two fortifications contiguous to each other, and of similar construction. In a historical memorandum and map, in 1755, before the country was subdued by the British, it is marked " Store House" only. The site is now a cultivated field, and the grounds have been frequently ploughed JAUNT TO THE ISLANDS. 173 Jaunt concluded. The party move on, and pass the house where Francis Abbott for some time resided, and stop at a place where the earth has been excavated. Here, several human skeletons Lave been dug up. How they came there, is matter of conjecture. The enclosure, which is seen at the left, is a garden, where in (he season of flowers and fruits, boquets and fruits are kept for sale. From every part of the upper end of the island, a fine view is presented of the village of Niagara Falls, and intervening rapids. The residence of Judge Porter is much admired. It stands on rising ground overlooking the river and rapids. The Judge is a gentleman of much industry, and of dia- tinguiehed talents. He and his brother. General Porter, purchased many years ago, of the State of New- York, a large tract of land around the Falls, of which they are etill the principal proprietors. Gen. Whitney's place is also seen advantageously from the island. He was among the first inhabitants, and has proved himself a pioneer worthy of all praise. Enterpri- sing in a most eminent degree, doing at all times all that industry and his means could afford in making improve- ments around the Fails, and on his own premises, for the accommodation of visitors — first putting ladders down the bank, and then a stair-case; establishing a ferry; and in building bridges, platforms, and many other conveni- ences. The travellers return to the bridge, and the jaunt round the island is ended. 15 A JAUNT TO THK WHIRLPOOL, DEVIL'S HOLE, TUSCARORA L\DIAN VILLGE, AND FORT NIAGARA. THE WHIRLPOOL. " Ahl terribly they rage! Tlic hoarse and rai)id whirlpoul's there I IMy brain (Jrows wild : my senses wander, as I gaze I'pon the hurrying water." If the Falls of Ningara did not exist, the Whirlpool would be the most distinguished curiosity afforded by the Niagara river ; and, in the estimation of many, greater than any of present notoriety in our country. Every one, brought up in or near the city of New York, must be familiar with the far-famed and much dreaded strait called Hurl-Gate, formerly HelUGate. The horrors of Ihat place are well known to all youthful imaginations, and the dread of the "frying-pan and pot" can hardly 178 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Preliminary notice. be eradicated by more mature observation. But pass once from the East river to the wild and rushing Whirl- pool of Niagara, and the imaginary terrors of Hurl- Gate will pass away : on your return, lbs strait will appear placid, or only seem agitated as with a summer's breeze. Even the great Maelstrom Whirlpool, of Norway, is not more dangerous than that of Niagara ; none have passed the vortex of either, nor fathomed their depths. For the satisfaction of those who visit the Whirlpool of Niagara, a short description of the Maelstrom is inserted in this work. It is from the pen of an American gentle- man, who visited the place he describee. If travellers to the American Whirlpool would v.ish to experience all the sensations of danger and peril which come over those who passed the disk of the Maelstrom, they have but to launch a boat on the Niagara, and. attempt an excur- sion, for examining more closely the whirling waters. In so doing, they will truly peril their lives, and feel sensations of terror, to their hearts content ; or the waves of Niagara will make buoyant their bodies, and infuse courage, more than natural, in the hearts of those who ride over them. OLD PORTAGE ROAD. " Bear me, Oh bear me to sequester'd scenes, The bow'ry mazes, and surrounding greens."' The party at the Falls having taken seats in the omni- bus, or having engaged a barouche or carriage, are on JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 179 Gad Pierce. their w»y to the Whirlpool. After riding ono and a half miles, they come lo the junction of the Lewistoii road with the NinL'ara Falls and Schlosser roads. In former days, this road was the great thoroughfare be- tween the lower and upper lakes. When all the sur- rounding country was wild and solitary, unimproved, and uninhabited except by the natives of the forest, this road exhibited a scene of buey life. It was crowded with teams, with animals and men, and all was activity and animation. Since then, it has greatly changed ; the Erie canal opened a new communication, and the Wel- land cnnal, in Canada, connects lakes Erie and Ontario. These works have drawn the business from the Portage road , and now, although the country through which it passes, is improved and productive, it is far more lonely than it wod in former dava. GAD PIERCE, ESQ. " Who does the utmost that lie can. Does well. — arts iioMy ; angels could no more." At the junction of the Portage with the Niagara Falls road, was, some years since, kept the public house of Gad Pierce. He was, in the time of the war with Great Britain, an active frontier partizan. When hostilities commenced between the two countries, there was a very small number of troops on the American side of the 15* 180 JAUNT TO THE v^PIRLPOOL. A cavalcade — An attack. river, and a single company only to garrison Fort Nia- gara. It was expected, every night, that the fort would be attacked by the British, who had a large body of men at Fort George. Mr. Pierce, aware of this state of things, one day raised all the inhabitants of the country, far and near, — young and old. The country was then thinly populated, and they assembled at Lewiston from several miles distant. Horses of every kind were brought into requisition, and when the citizens were mounted, they appeared at a distance like a formidable troop of cavalry. Among them, too, were several of the Tuscarora Indi- ans, who entered with spirit into the manoeuvre. In the place of swords, they used walking canes, sticks, and ramrods. Several of the ramrods were of polished steel or iron, which made a very bright and flashy appearance. The cavalcade moved from Lewiston, along the river road, in sight of the enemy, and entered Fort Niagara : the blankets of the Indians fluttering in the wind, and the many-colored and various habiliments of the farmers ; the limping and over-strained plough horse; the nibbling gait and twitching head of the wild pony ; with now and then a noble horse of the Pennsylvania breed ; formed, to those who were near, a most ludicrous spectacle. In the fort, they dismounted, and performed some slight evolutions in the most laughable style. At the command to mount, some of the Indians executed the order in such a masterly manner, as to throw themselves entirely over their ponies. To the British, the imposing appear- ance of the troops, with their steel ramrods, which glit- tered in the sun like broadswords, had the desired effect ; the contemplated attack was not made. JATNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 181 3Iiiieral Spring. At the time of the general invasion of the frontier, Mr. Pierce had his family conveyed to a place of security, but would not himself quit his premises. He, and three or four others, formed the little garrison, with which he determined to defend his honse. They waited for the approach of the enemy. At length, a company of British regulars appeared in sight, and a fire was opened upon them. They continued the defence for some time ; but, as their opponents were numerous, it was imjwssible to keep them at a distance. A part advanced upon the front of the house, succeeded in breaking down the door, and fired their pieces as they entered. The defenders efTccted their escape in an opposite direction, without an individual of their uumber being wounded. Whether the attacking party suffered any lose, was not known. .FUNERAL sl'RIXt;. Two miles from the Falls, a small open building, painted white, with Grecian columns, is pointed out by the guide, as one of the works of Benjamin Rathbun. It stands between the road and the river, and is placed over a mineral spring. The spring is sulphurous, and the water, it is said, very much resembles that of Har- rowgate, .in England. In rheumatic and scrofulous and many other diseases, it has been used to advantage, in several cases; and it only requires necessary improvement; 182 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Description of the WliirlpooL baths, and other accommodations, and it will soon obtain celebrity and favor with the public. The situation, too, is very pleasant, and a distant view of the Falls is obtained from the road — the view which Capt. Basil Hall so much admired, and which so vividly, he says, remained fixed upon his mind. After all, to Rathbun must be awarded the credit of having a very sound judgment in making his purchases. He selected the most choice and valuable situations ; and, had it not been for his unfortunate aber- ration from the path of rectitude, his high expectations, as to value, would have been realized. THE WHIRLPOOL. " Imaginaiion, baffled, strives in vain ! The wildest sire^nms that ever poets feign, Thou dost transcend I Tiicrc is no power in song To paint the wonders that around me throng I" This grand and beautiful scene is three miles from the Falls of Niagara, and lour miles from the village of Lewiston. Standing on the right bank of the Niagara, two hun- dred and fifty feet above the river, you behold at a dis- tance the advancing waters ; not mild and gentle, but agitated, rushing, and roaring, with deafening sound, they hurry on. They come, in all their power ; majes- tic, solitary, and alone. No vessel, or work of man's formation, floats on the raging torrent : nothing of life JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 183 Fraeiiieiiis of Vessels. rides over the reeistlese waves, or floats unscathed on the mist-crowned billows. This mii^hty flood is more lonely and niyslerious than the solitary ocean. Man ))as6('8 with comparative security over the vasty deep ; but, on these waters, living, he moves not : he is power- less. They ra;:^e, in their solitude, alone, — for ever j and man can only behold them with emotions of awe, and reverence that Ahnifihly Power "who weighs the hills in a balance, and holrls the waters of the ocean in the hollow of his hand. " Still forward, in wave after Mave, ruthcs the resist- less flood ; and all that floats therein, is peeled, dis- menilKTod and crushed. If an object ie beheld, it is but for a moment : swiftly it passes the hollow of the crested waves — rises amid the feathery mist — and then, again, in an instant, is jiliiDCod below. It remains for some time immersed iVom sight ; and, if it again appears, it will be still more wrecked and broken. The river widens, opposite the spectator ; and, on the Canada side, a counter current, equal to the main chan- nel, rushes up the stream. A large ba.^;n of warring water is presented to the eye of the enraptured beholder. He sees the great Niagara, pouring therein the accumulated waters of a thousand rivers and lakes, and driving, with irresistable impetuosity, against the rocky shore of Cana- da ; and the counter current, with equal power, passing in an opposite direction. With absorbing interest, he observes, between the contending currents, the deep en- gulfing eddies, and the yawning whirlpool. There he sees huge masses of timber, dismembered trees, the frag- ments of vessels and water craft, the wrecks of all that 184 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. New view. has passed the Falls or the cataracts of the river above. They go round, and round ; they gradually approach the centre ; then they are drawn in, and are swallowed up in the deep vortex of the stream. After a while, at a distant point, they are propelled upward, and again re- new their circuit, and again are drawn below. Some- times trees, and logs, are ejected upwards with so much violence, as to raise one end several feet perpendicularly above the water. Objects drawn in the Whirlpool, have been knowu to remain there for several weeks. The whole expanse of water lies below the spectator ; his eye eeems to take in the whole scene ; and no open- ing or outlet for this vast and constantly increasing floods is observed, Sometimes, travellers, who, in past years, visited this place without a guide, returned disappointed. They did not see the Whirlpool , but, mistaking a rapid portion of the Niagara, something similar in appearance, a quarter of a mile above, their expectations of the mag- nitude and interest of the scene, were not answered. Others have seen the Whirlpool, but not all about it ; not having turned the point, to feast their eyes upon the fine and noble view of the retreating water, or not having descended the bank, to the edge of the stream, as it thunders along. The traveller should pass a few paces to the north, and at the turn of a point near the brink of the precipice, di- rect his attention beneath. There he beholds, what at first appears a small, dark and heavy stream ; like some deep and narrow mountain torrent ; but unlike the great Niagara, so much the object of admiration. For some moments, the illusion is complete. The Whirlpool and JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 185 Eddies and Vortices. its foaming eddies — its deep gulfs and encircling waves, are all forgot ; and the imagination is seized with rapture and surprise, at this unexpected and newly discovered scene. He advances — the reality is discovered : this is, indeed, the Niagara, escaping, as it were, from its prison house. The charm is not immediately dissolved ; the great river is contracted to a very span ; the opposite shore of Canada ia within a stone's throw ; and the deep waters are literally poured out from the broad basin of the Whirlpool. When the waters are at their usual height, the visitor can, where the river disgorges from the Whirlpool, walk out from the shelving bank, to the very verge of the pas- sing torrent. He can there, if his nerves are steady and strong, dip his hands or bathe his feet in the deep, green, impetuous flood that rushes along ; but, to do so, he must be firm, or, at beholding the advancing waters, hearing their astounding roar, and glancing at the fluc- tuant current, the head may become dizzy, and, like other daring unfortunates, he may fall a victim to the dark and troubled waters of Niagara. The more wary traveller will retreat a few yards, and try his strength to cast a stone to reach the opposite shore of Canada ; a feat which has been done by the sinewy sons of the farmers of Niagara. The Whirlpool is a place combining many objects to interest ; but, at times, the spectacle is not alike impo- sing. When the water is at its usual height, or rather lower, the eddies and vortices are the largest, and the scene then appears to the beet advantage. After a storm, when bridges have been carried off", vessels shipwrecked, 186 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. New discovery. boats torn away from their fastening, and trees and logs swept down from the upper lake, then all the terrors of the place are presented, and it is only inferior to the great cataract of Niagara, The two scenes are alike the result of the stupendous congregation of waters, which irre- sistibly passes through the mountain gorge, from Schlos- ser to Lewiston ; but there is no similitude existing be- tween them. Sometime since a raft of logs of more than seventy pieces, belonging to Gen'l Whitney, broke loose above the Falls and were carried over the cataract ; they lodged in the Whirlpool where they remained careering round for several weeks. The scene was then very interesting ; some were gliding over the smooth undulating water> some were dancing and bounding on the waves, while others were springing on and driven forth from the deep. They were in all positions, striking and crushing each other, leaping and moving round in a commingling war of elemental commotion. A visitor in the month of September 1840, while in- tensely admiring and studying this scene of beauty and wonder from the American side was lead to the impression, that any thing thrown into the river at a particular point, would not be taken down the stream, strong as the current swelled itself along, but would be carried to the other side. The next day the experiment was made, and a most interesting feature of the Whirlpool discovered ; showing more clearly than had yet been known, the very singular action of the water. Several pieces of timber were set adrift, one after another ; they first floated up the stream, then fell into the main channel, in which they JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 187 Suspension Bridge. moved rapidly towards the Canada shore, to which they approached within a few rode : then wheeling they passed up the stream entered the Whirlpools where they remain- ed driving round during the day. A short time alter a tight barrel was taken to this point; a quantity of gravel was put in for ballast, to cause it to float on end ; a slender staff with a flag attached to it was secured to the other end, and thus prepared it was launched into the river. It took the same course, passed to the Canada shore, entered the Whirlpool ; where after many hours it was left, still moving and dancing mund. This simple, yet beautiful experiment more than any thing yet witnessed, shows the very extraordinary movements of this flood of water. This experiment can only be made from the American side. It shows almost conclusively that nothing passes floating from the Whirlpool, but such things as enter it from the river above, continue therein, until swallowed up in the Whirlpools, tjiey are curried ofl" in the depths of the cur- rent. At the outlet of the Whirlpool, the banks of the Nia- gare river approach each other nearer than at any other point ; and if a suspension bridge should ever be erected over the' Niagara, nature seems to have designated this spot as being the most suitable, as it is here the most practicable. " There is a beautiful, undying diarin In God's credited \vorli«. The wiiispcrinp \vin(l< and waves, The mountain hrook, tlie creeping grass, flowers, Quivering leaves, even to the lowliest tbings, Do lis]) their Maker's praise." 16 188 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. The prospect. Having arrived at the Lodge the charge for entering upon the grounds is paid at the gate. It has been custom- ary to drive to the bank with a carriage, and the carriage is left in waiting. This course is not recommended ; the expense is enchanced, the visitors are hurried to return by the hackman, and have not time to look around. As there are now accomodations on the ground for visitors, and ample conveyances by omnibuses and hacks for their return at all hours, it is better to stop at the bridge on the road and walk out. The distance is short and the walk will form a pleasant one after the ride. Before coming in sight of the river, the road enters a bowery of forest trees, the close and luxuriant foliage of which forms a cool and sombrous shade, very refreshing in the prevailing heats of summer. As the party advances towards a summer-house near the bank of the river, proceeded by the guide, one of the party inquires — " Where is the Whirlpool ?" Guide. — " This is the place. From this point, you perceive the waters approaching, with great velocity. They pass before us, towards the shore of Canada ; then they devide, part passes off to the right, but a large portion is propelled back, forming the counter current ; between that and the main channel, are the eddies and the Whirlpool. By looking through this prospect-glass, you will distinguish more plainly the logs and timber ; which, from the distance wo are from them, to the naked eye appear quite small. With this, you will also per- ceive the magnitude of the vortex around which they are carried. To view the Whirlpool advantageously, a glass should always be used." JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 189 TJic outlet. After contemplating the prospect for some lime, with iiuicL satififaction, inquiry is made, " What course does fbe rivtr take, from this ?" The ^niide leads the way, saying, " We will advance a short distance. Now look below." Traveller. — '* Saint Mary ! what a scene is this !" One of the ladies. — " How beautiful and clear, and yet how powerful and rapid ! With what commotion it bounds away ! Is this a branch of the Niagara ? Guide. — " Slill move a few steps closer to the bank, and you will perceive that the stream below is truly the Niagara. Its sudden turn, the contraction of the chan- nel, the high and approaching banks, and the dark and swelling water of the outlet, strikes every one with sen- sations of adnn'ralion." Traveller. — "Tasteless to the njarvcllous and surjjri- sing beauties of nature would he be, who can behold these, her noble works, without emotion." " Naliiro here Wantons in lifr prime, and plays at will Her virgin fancies." Guide. — "These are the points spoken of, as being jiracticable to connect together by a suspension bridge. Though the inhabitants of Lewiston and Queenston have companies incorporated for that purpose, and seriously contemplate to build a bridge to join their villages, yet the distance across the river, at Lewiston, is much fur- ther than here." As nearly all the travellers, that visit the Whirlpool, descend the bank, and consider themselves well paid for the trouble, the party conclude to go down. 190 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Stone thrown to Canada. The guide leads the way, and with some labor and exertion, though not more than is healthy exercise, they descend. He conducts them to the Smooth Rock, against which dashes the powerful and resistless current. "Here." he observes, "a young man, by the name of Snmuel Whitner, of this township, threw a stone that struck the Canada shore." Several of the party, being disposed to try their skill and strength, make the same attempt. Whether they succeed or not, has not been reported. Traveller. — " I think I have seen it mentioned in some publication, that there is a cave near the Whirlpool. If worthy of notice, we will visit it." The guide acknowledges that he is ignorant of its loca- tion; that he knew but one person who had visited it, and his account was very vague and unsatisfactory; stating that he entered but a short distance; that it was very dark, and that he did not like to go in alone. The same person also said, that he observed, near the cave, many valuable mineral specimens; and, that spot not having been visited by travellers, he thought more minerals might be picked up, than at any other place. The cave, he said, was about thirty rods up the rivor from the path that descends the bank. The guide expresses a desire to lead the party in that direction, and explore it out; but, the route appearing very difficult, the offer is declined. The almost impenetrability of the trees and bushes, the rocks hanging dangerously above, and the necessity of cHmbing and again descending many steep and forbid- ding passes, have, as yet, prevented a full exploration of this place; but it will be different for the future. The JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 191 Improvements proposed. descent down the bank will be made convenient, the whole vicinity will be examined, and many obstacles will be re- moved that impede the rambles of visitors around this spot; and without effecting the wild romantic aspect of the place, make every point accessible that visitors may desire to view. Heretofore no person has resided near the Whirlpool, and there was no accommodation or pro- vision for the comfort of travellers. It will now be made more agreeable for a protracted stay to those who desire to larry. One of the party expresses some suqirise, that Ibis water power has not been brought into use; " the rapid?, though larger, are similar to those above the Falls, and they may be controlled in the same way." Guide. — " The hill, or high bank appears to be the only obfelacic." Traveller. — " That, now, is of but little consequence, as power may be weed at almost any distance, by means of the elasticity of the air, confined and conveyed in cast iron pipes." Some of the party seek for new and strange plants, for this place, like Iris island, produces many varieties, not readily found in other parts of the countrj'. " And miilst the craj^gy piles and boulders, here, "NVild plants and trees, with verdant tops, appear ; T'ncominoii herbs, peculiar to the place. Peep throufrh the fissures, and the prospect grace. Here the sage botanist delights to stay. And in deep study wile the time away." Having spent some time below the bank, in rambling over the rocks, and engraving their names upon the rocks 16* 192 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Return to the upper bank. or trees, they retrace their steps. Arriving at the top of the hill, they proceed along the upper bank for a quarter of a mile or more. Here are presented some noble views of the formidable river, driving furiously along. " Thou seest not all: but piece-meal thou must break To separate contemplation, the great whole ; And, as the ocean many bajs will make, That ask the eye, so, here, condense thy soul To more immediate objects, and control Thy thoughts, until thy mind hath got by heart, Its eloquent proportions, and unroll Its mighty graduations, part by part. The glory which, at once upon thee did not dart." No scenes more enlarge themselves on the mind, the more they are viewed, than those around the Whirlpool. Who casts but a furtive glance and then hastens away, enjoys but little, and drinks not of the cup of inspiration which nature here presents in all her greatness and sub- limity. To those who live not distant, who love the pure air and delight in the wild woods, the brown and broken rocks, deep caverns, and roaring floods, re-visit this spot again and again with renewed pleasure. Many from afar, who have cast but a slight and hasty glance, and turned unsatisfied away, have afterwards regretted their apathy, and have longed to retrace their steps and to review the scene. The following inscription, without date, was lately found at that place: " Flow on in the garment of spray Which God hath given thee, And fill all other souls, as thou hast mine, With wonder and praise." JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 193 Muelslroni, of Norway. Having traversed the shore till wearied with the walk, they return to the fiiimmer-house, where they seat and rest themselves. While enjoying the cool retreat, and the beauty of the proepect, the conversation is still on the scene before them. One enquires — ** Do you not suppose it possible to cross the river, here, in safety ?" The guide replies — "No one has ever thought it pos- sible; though a lifo boat has been spoken of, and, if ob- tained, there is a person at the Falls, by the name of Joel R. Robinson, a most skilful waterman, who would not hesitate to attempt it."* To which, another gentleman adds — " With such a boat, no doubf, it might be accomplished. While look- ing at the Whirinool, of Niagara river, my thoughts have been drawn to the Maelstrom, of Norway ; contrasting the two together, to discover if there is any resemblance between them; but I find none." An American gentleman, who sailed along the edge of the Maelstrom, says: " The waves foamed around us in every form. The censations I experienced, are difficult to describe. Imagine to yourself an immense circle, mo- ving round, of a diameter of one and a half miles, the velocity increasing as it approximates towards the centre, and gradually changing its dark blue color to white — foaming, tumbling, rushing to the vortex — very much concave, as much so as the water in a tunnel when half run out; the noise, too, hissing, roaring, dashing — all pressing on the mind at once — presented the most awful, *This was publishf^d of Robinson two months before his rescue of Chapin from the island. 194 JAUXT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Shrubs anri Plants. grnnd, and solemn sight I ever beheld. It is evidently a Bubterranean passage. From its magnitude, I should not doubt, but that instant destruction vv^ould be the fate of a dozen of our largest ships, if they were drawn in the same moment." As to the foaming, tumbling, dashing, and roaring, our eyes and ears must witness that the scene before us can- not be surpassed; but the great peculiarity of the Mael- strom, the tunnel-like appearance, is not found here. Traveller. — " If the improvements were made, of which the place is susceptible, it would make a beautiful country retreat. The grounds, west of the road, I would enclose as a park; the forest part should be cleared of the imder-growth, leaving here and there, dense as it now is, a clump of indigenious ehrubs and plants, as impervious as nature has reared them. The whole should be inter- sected with roads and walks; steps, also, to descend the bank; a bathing and fishing house; a life-boat on the river; and a suspension bridge, from bank to bank. The water power should be brought into use, in carrying on mills and manufactories; and my cottage should be in the midst of the active and rural scene." Guide. — "To which could be added a view of the Falls, at a distance, if the woods on yon point of land at the south, in Canada, were cut down. This place was one of the favorite purchases of Ralhbun, and on which he very justly placed a high value. It was he who erected the summer-house, and it was his design to carry into effect many of the improvements which you have just mentioned. JAINT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 195 Uenjiiuiiri Uaihbun. IIKNJA.-MIX RATHBl'N. *• Say, wliy \vc strive a lu«trous nanip to zain, An sou turf, tlie riv'lei's sands, Were traiupled by a hurrying crowd ; And fiery hearts, and armed hands, Encountered in the baUle cloud," A mile from the Whirlpool, the road runs within a few feet of the river's bank, where a deep and gloomy chasm is rent or worn out of the rock. This ia called the Devil's Hole, and the small stream which crosses the road and falls in the chasm, is the Bloody Run. In 1759, while the war was yet raging between Eng- land and France, a detachment of one hundred British regulars were conveying a large supply of provisions, beef cattle, and munitions of war, to Fort Scblosser. Indians were employed by both parties. Those in the interest of the 202 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. The aiiihuscade. French, had been for some days hovering about the Brit- ish camp, and when the convoy set out, they were on the alert. At this place, they formed their ambuscade, and never was there a spot more favorable for such a manoeu- vre. The road passed down a small hill, and continued on a level for about a hundred rods, when it again rose on higher ground. The northern portion of the road is now blighlly varied. The ascents were united by an ele- vated ridge of level land, which was covered with wood, and commanded the road for the whole distance. On the right of the advancing party was the high bank of the iS^iagara river, and on the left the ridge, and at each extremity the two small hills. The party, imsus- pecting any attack, moved forward on the road; when the front of the detachment rtiiched the end of the ravine, the Indian fusees were opened upon them with deadly cin; then followed the dread war-whoop, as if a thousand wolves were howling and yelling around them. Indeed, iheir assailants were more fierce and ferocious than the wild beasts of the forest. " Pale terror march'd amid the yielding band, Chiird every heart, unnerv'd each iron hand." Many of the soldiers were killed at the first discharge, and the others were thrown into hopeless confusion. The Indians fell like tigers upon the drivers, tomahawked them in their seats, and threw them under foot. The waggons were backed off the precipice, and men and cattle fell M'ilh the loading in one dismembered and mu- tilated mass. Some threw themselves from the bank, and fell mangled and dying on the rocks; others lodged JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 203 Four persons escjipc. in the branches of the trees, where they remained, disa- bled, until the affray was over, when the savages at their leisure despatched them. The horror of the scene can be but faintly imagined. The quick report of the fusees, the yells of the Indians, the bellowing of the cattle, the shrieks of the wounded and dying, mingled with the mo- notonous roar of the surges of the Niagara, which rose from below as in mockery of the folly, the strife, and dying groans of men. The brook that courses over the bank, ran red wilii the blood of the fclain. A person, by the name of Stedman, escaped by cutting the bridle of his horse, which an Indian had seized. The horse tied with him up the small stream, and came again to the Niagara river, at the mouth of a creek now called Gill creek. The heirs, or representatives of this man have since set up a pretended title to the tract of land which he encompassed in his retreat, bounding west on the Nia- gara river, and say that the Indians gave him the land, as " a medicine," for his loss at the Devil's Hole. No deed or confirmation of title being produced to our courts, the claim was not admitted. Stedman's brother threw himself down the bank, and was fortunately, wjthout injury, caught in the top of a l)ine tree; thence, he descended to the water's edge, and by swimming in some places, and scrambling through brakes and over rocks in others, he succeeded in reaching the landing, now Lewiston. Two other persons, only, made good their escape: all of the others were destroyed. Until of late years, pieces of the waggons, and other evi- dences of this bloody discomfiture, existed; but they have now entirely mouldered away. 17* 204 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. The Indian Village. At Colt's tavern, four miles from the Falls, a road strikes off to the east, which leads to the Indian village. As the travellers turn to the right, the guide points to the next rising ground in sight, on the Lewiston road, and observes — "there resided an honest old Dutch far- mer, by the name of March. When the British and In- dians made their destructive incursion on the frontier, information did not reach him in season to make his escape. While he was harnessing his horses, a party of Indians rushed upon him, and murdered him on the spot. While the bloody deed was going on, in front of the house, the family effected their escape to the woods. A scouting party of Americans, some days afterwards, passing that way, found his own hogs eating his body. Such are the abhorrent scenes which war presents. TUSCARORA INDIANS. " That cliff, nietliinks, the Indian cry Peals from its summit, shrill and high." They are a part of the tribe of Tuscaroras, formerly inhabiting North Carolina. They came to this country about the year 1712, and joined the five nations. The whole formed the warlike confederacy called the Six Na- tions. They live on a tract of land ceded to them by the Senecas, of one by three miles, and also four thousand three hundred and twenty-eight acres deeded to them by JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 205 Little Chief. the Holland Land Company. The United States, in 1837, purchased out their interest, and they are to be re- moved to the west. They number only, at this time, two hundred and eighty-three individuals. Their present principal chief is Thomas Chew, the son of an English- man. Our party having arrived at the village, look into the wigwams; make such observations, and take such notes of the customs and manners of the inhabitants, as a short and hasty visit affords; purchase some articles of Indian manufacture; or, perhaps, seek an introduction to the ve- nerable chief Sacarisea, who was a commissioned officer in the American army, in the revolutionary war. If it be Sunday, the travellers attend the place of public wor- fchip, where, besides the interest afTordcd by the sermon of the missionary, they will hear it translated to the na- tives, in their peculiar guttural language ; and also hear singing, of the most superior order. The Indians are, justly, much extolled for their fine voices. They are very fond both of vocal and instnimental music. Among their distinguished men, there was one, some time since, by the name of LITTLE CHIEF. Immediately after the declaration of war by our gov- ernment, in 181*2, about a dozen of the sachems and principal men of the village, with much formality, called on the commanding officer at Fort Niagara. The officers 206 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Indian .Speech. of the fort assembled at the commandant's quarters, and being seated, Little Chief thus expressed himself, thro' John Mountpleasant, a noble Indian: *' He 6ay0," spoke the interpreter, "that Captain Bruff was the first American that took possession of this fort. He received it peaceably from the hands of the British. He and his troops resided here in peace; there was no war, no trouble. He went away: he left the fort strong as he got it. He did well." "He says," — "Next came Major Revardi, and still there was peace. These fortifications remained firm and strong: there were no enemies to approach them. He went away: he left all things as he found them. He did well." "He says," — "Then came Captain Wiley: yet there was peace. Friends passed from one side of the river to the other: the warriors rested on their arms in security, and there were none to call them to battle. He went away. He, too, left the fort strong. He did well." "He says," — "After him, came Major Porter : yet there was peace. He also went away. He left all things as he found them. He did well." "He says,"— " These all did well. You came next. You found the fort strong. You have been here in peace. You, too, have done well. Now, war has come. This fort is of great importance to the United States. Those that came before you, did well in peace. You must do well in war." " He says,"—" We have come to tell you, that we are the friends of the United States: we are as one people. We wish to offer our services to you: our warriors will JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 207 An Indian Adventure. do all they can : they hold themselves ready to fight for this country. When you need us, call, and we will come." The commanding officer made a suitable reply, stating that if their services should be required for defensive purposes, the government of the United States would inform them. After Great Britain had set the example of employing Indiana, the Tuscaroras were called upon, and no Americans behaved better than they did, during (he remainder of the war. The irnvellers leave the village, and descend the moun- tain towards Lewioton. AN INDIAN ADVENTURE. "In voice, mien, gesture, savage nature spoke." Just below the mountain, and to the right of the road which descends from the Tuscarora village, lives Mr. Sparrow Sage. He had, on the 19th of December, 1813, in the distressing invasion of this frontier, been driven from his home. For the purpose of securing his harvest, he, the summer after, returned with his wife, to their exposed and solitary dwelling. One day, when he was at work at some distance in the fields, an Indian, attached to the British cause, entered the house. He demanded something to eat, speaking in broken English. Mrs. S. was entirely alone, and immediately obeyed his bidding, 208 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. An abduelion — The rescue. being in hopes that he would, after eating, go away. After he had finished his repast, he told her that he lived at Grand River, in Canada, and that he had come after her to go with him, and she must be his squaw. She replied to him, that could not be, for she had a husband. ** No, no," he angrily said, ** You very pretty — you must be my squaw — you shall go." In vain she told him that her husband and others w^ere near by; that he had better go away, or he might get killed. The Indian then took down Mr. S's gun, and finding it not loaded, put it up again. Afterwards he ransacked the house, commandmg Mrs. S. not to leave his sight, and keeping his eye upon her. He first appropriated to himself all that he could carry; then, seizing her forcibly by the arm, dragged her out of the back door, and thence towards the woods, in the direction of Fort Niagara, then in the oc- cupation of the British. The husband heard the screams of his wife, and hurrying towards the house, seized an axe which was lying at the door, and followed in pursuit. He came up to them at the fence, on the border of the forest. Not letting go his hold, the savage fired at Mr. S. as he ran towards them. His ball did not take effect; and, just as he was raising his victim to throw her over the fence, he received a blow from the axe, which broke his rifle, and made him let go of Mrs. S. He then, con- sulting his own safety, leaped over the fence; but, in eo doing, he received another blow from the axe, which made him fill the forest with his yells, and he made off with all the speed he could, into the thick woods. Mr. S. did not think porper to pursue, but, returning with his wife, they immediately left their dangerous habitation for a place of greater security. JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 209 Another adventure. Mr. William Molyneux, the father of Mrs. S. had, the winter before, occupied the same residence. About a month after he and his family had been obliged to flee from their homes, he returned very cautiously. He en- tered his house, and found two Indians lying dead on the floor. A party of American militia-men had come upon them unexpectedly, while they were carousing upon the good fare and liquors which the occupants had left. They were, no doubt, abroad for murder and destruction, and met the fate ^^hich they intended for others. Mr. M. dragged their bodies from Ihe house, and as he had no aid or time to bury them, he formed round them a large pile t>f logs and rails, and, setting Are to it, they were consum- ed. The British Indians considered it quite an aftVont, and threatened vengeance. It was an empty threat, for they had already done him all the mischief they could. AN ESCAPE FROM INDIANS. " Though few the numbers — theirs the strife, That neither spares nor seeks for life." Another incident, which occurred on the memorable invasion before alluded to, took place on the Ridge Road, a few miles east of Mr. Molyneux's public-house. The roads had been deeply broken up, and were frozen in that state, and it was impossible to proceed with wagons ; a very little snow enabled the inhabitants slowly to move along with sleighs. They were fleeing from a relentless 210 JAUXT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Death of an Indian. and cruel enemy. The rear of the fugitives was brought up with a two -horse sleigh, driven by a young man, who was walking by the side of his horses. In the sleigh lay his brother, who, one week before, had had his leg am- putated just below the thigh. His condition was very feeble, and to proceed rapidly, rough as the roads then were, would have been death to him. There was no alternative, but to continue the moderate pace at which they were moving. The driver was armed with a rifle. At that, and distrustfully behind him, he alternately looked ; for he knew the foe was near at hand. At length, the war-hoop, with its accompanying yells, broke upon their ears. The disabled brother besought the other to leave him to his fate, and by flight to save his own life. " No," he replied, *' if we are to die, we will perish together." The party of Indians that pursued them were in full sight ; and one, far in advance of the others, called to them to stop, making threatening gestures, and raising his rifle. With the same slow pace, the horses proceeded ; the driver, coolly collecting liimself for the conflict, in which there were such fearful odds against him. The Indian sprang forward, and was within a few paces of the sleigh, when the young man, suddenly turning himself, quickly raised his rifle, and firing, fatally wounded his pursuer. The savage plunged forward, fell, and his body rolled out of the road. A yell of vengeance, from the band in the rear, came like the knell of death upon the brothers. At that moment, a friendly party of the Tuscaroras were seen descending the adjacent mountain ; and the Well-directed fire they opened on the British Indians, obliged them precipitately JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 211 Lewiston. to retire. The driver of the bleigh was tho Hon. Bates Cooke, and the i.iVQlid was his brother, Lalhrop Cooke, Esq. Mr. B. Cooke, at the battle of Queenston, was pilot of the boat that led the van on that occasion ; the boat was brought to the exact point designated, and the men, though tired upon by the sentinel who gave the alarm, were landed without loss. TIIK VILLACE OF LEWISTON. " And calm aiul pe^'n'ofnl fell the rKpiiJ ruy Mid rural scenery and woodland spray ; Hut ere that hcam another day had crowa'd, A Rhasily ruin mark'd the charm around; The srreen grass wav'd along the verdent |>lain, Another day — 'iwas crush'd beneath the slain ; The streamlet sparkled lauthe eve before, Another day — 'twas red with clotted gore." The party api)roach Lewiston. Tho summer after the village was burnt, the prospect all around was like one extensive meadow. Nearly all the fences in the fields had been destroyed by our own troops, at difierent timep, while encamped there, or passing through ; but, at the time it was burnt by the British, the destruction was general : nothing was left that would burn ; and the life of no creature was spared that could be destroyed. Not only the fields, but the yards and streets were covered with high, grass, and the prospect was lonely and 18 212 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Tliomas Hustler. melancholy in the extreme — not a living creature was to be seen. A spirit of wanton cruelty had caused the enemy to destroy all that they could not carry away. Little swarms of small yellow butterflies, flitting about above the tall grass, marked the spot where the carcass of some creature lay, where it had been shot down or pcriehed. What scene can be more gloomy, than a coun- try depopulated, and laid waste by the ravages of war. As you enter the village, directly fronting the road from the Falls, formerlly lived sergeant Thomas Hustler, one of Gen. Vv^iyne's old veternns. He carried about, for many years, a ball in his thigh, which he received in battle. He kept a public-house, one of the best of those times ; and the grateful beverage of mother Hust- ler's good coflee, is yet remembered by many an old traveller ; and many a sleigh-ride, and jaunt of pleasure, was made by the officers of Fort Niagara, to the public- house of the old sergeant. A little further in the village, lived a respectable phy- sician, by the name of Alvord. When the Indians en- tered Lewiston, carrying before them terror and death, he was preparing to fly from danger, but he was too late ; as he was mounting his horse, they shot him down and scalped him. Lewiston, was, in 180.5, named after Governor Lewis, of the state of New York ; it was burnt in 1813, in 1815 the inhabitants returned and it is now a beautiful and flourishing village. JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 213 Five Mile Meadow. FIVE .MILE MEADOW. " Come, tread witli inc yon chanceful dells, Where beauty iiiio ;:raii(lour suells." This beautiful eiluation, celebrated in the early days of the country, as being one of the first cultivated spots of the Wilderness, is between one and two miles below Lewis- ton, and live miles from the Fort. Hence its name. It was the residence and property of Captain Nathaniel Leonard, formerly of the United States army. At the dose of the last war, he retired to this place, esteemed as the most attractive and pleasant of any on the river. Here, in the mindst of a beloved family, in the improvement and cultivation of his farm, and in the confidence of his many friends and neighbors, he lived happily fur many years, and truly verified the adage, that " Tiie post of honor is a private station." Youngatown is a village, also, lying by the side of the Niagara river. It is one mile from Fort Niagara, and old Fort George, in Canada, is directly opposite. It derives its name from John Young, formerly an American merchant, in Canada. He was the principal proprietor. Here is kept the only ferry to Canada, between Lewis- ton and Lake Ontario. A horse boat is maintained. In summer time, it is very pleasant crossing ; but, in win- ter, if the ice runs, there is danger. 214 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Fort .\ia?a»;i. FORT NIAGARA. «' Hoarse barked the wolf; the vulture screamed afar ; The angel pity shunned tlie walks of war." This fortress is in latitude 43 deg. 14 sec. N. In 1679, a small spot was enclosed by pallisadcs, by M. De Salle, an officer in the service of France. In 1725, the Fort was built. In 1759, it was taken by the British, under Sir William Johnson. The capture has been ascribed to treachery, though there is not known to be any existing authority to prove the charge. In 1796, it was surren- dered to the United Stales. On the 19lh December, 1813, it was again taken by the British, by surpnce ; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to the Ameri- cans. This old fort is as much noted for enormity and crime, as for any good ever derived from it by the nation in occupation. While in the hands of the French, there is no doubt of its having been, at times, used as a prison ; its close and impregnable dungeons, where light was not admitted, and where remained, for many years after, clear traces, and a part of the ready instrumonta for exe- cution, or for murder. During the American revolution, it was the head-quarter of all that was barbarous, unre- lenting, and cruel. There, were congregated the leaders and chiefs of those bands of murderers and miscreants, that carried death and destruction into the remote Ame- rican settlements. There, civilized Europe revelled with savage America ; and ladies of education and refinement mingled in the society of those whose only distinction JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 215 Fort Niagara — Mess-house. was to wield the bloody tomahawk and scalp ing-knife. There, the squaws of the forest were raised to eminence, and the most unholy unions between them and officers of the highest rank, smiled upon and countenanced. There, in their strong hold like a nest of vultures, securely, for seven years, they sallied forth and preyed upon the distant settlements on the Mohawk and Sus- quehanna. It was the depot of their plunder ; there they planned their forays, and there they returned to feast, until the hour of action come again. Fort Niagara is in the State of New York, and stands on a point of land at the mouth of tlie Niagara river. It is a traditionary story, that the mess-house, which is a very strong building and the largest in the fort was, erected by stratagem. A considerable, though not power- ful body of French troops, had arrived at the point. Their force was inferior to the surrounding Indians, of whom they were under some apprehensions. They ob- tained consent of the Indians to build a wigwam, and induced them, with some of their officers, to engage in an extensive hunt. The materials had been made ready, and, while the Indians, were absent, the French built. When the parties returned, at night, they had advanced so far With the work, as to defend themselves against the savages, in case of an attack. In progress of time, it be- came a place of considerable strength. It had its bastions, ravines ; its ditch and pickets ; its curtains and counter- scarp ; its covered way, draw bridge, raking batteries ; its stone towers, Inberatory, and magazine; its mess-house, barracks, bakery, and blacksmith shop ; and, for worship, a chapel, with a large ancient dial over the door, to mark 18* 216 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Fort Nia^rara. the hourly course of the sun. It was, indeed, a little city of itself, and for a long period the greatest place south of Montreal, or west of Albany. The fortifications origin- ally covered a space of about eight acres. At a few rods from the barrier gate, was the burying ground ; it was filled with memorials of the mutability of human life ; and over the portols of the entrance was painted, in large and emphatic characters, the word "REST." It is generally believed, that some of the distant fort- resses of France were often converted into state prison?, as well as for defensive purposes. There was much about Fort Niagara, to establish the belief that it had been used as such. The dungeon of the mess-house, called the black hole, was a strong, dark,, and dismal place ; and in one corner of the room was fixed the ap- paratus for strangling such unhappy wretches as fell un- der the displeasure of the despotic rulers of those days. The walls of this dungeon, from top to bottom, had en- graved upon them French names, and mementos in that language. That the prisoners were no common persons was clear, as the letters and emblems were chiselled out in good style. In June, 1812, when an attack was momentarily expected upon the fort by a superior British force, a merchant, resident at Fort Niagara, deposited some valuable articles in this dungeon. He took occa- sion, one night, to visit it with a light ; he examined the walls, and there, among hundreds of French names, he saw his own family name engraved, in large letters. He took no notes, and has no recollection of the other names and memorials ; he intended to repeat his visit, and to extend his examination, but other avocations JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 21" Morgan. caused the subject to be neglected ; and it was not brought to raind again until of late years, when all was changed. In further corroberation that Fort Niagara had witnessed scenes of guilt and fjul murder, was the fact that, in 1805, it became necessary to clear out an old sink at- tached to the mess-house. The bones of a female were found therein, evidently, from the place where discovered, the victim of some atrocious crime. There were many legendary stories about the fort. In the centre of the mess-house was a well of water, but, it having been poisoned by some of the former occupants, in latter years the water was not used ; and it was a story with the soldiers, and belivcvcd by the eupersitious, that at midnight the headless trunk of a French general officer was often seen sitting on the curb of the old well, where he had been murdered, and his body thrown in ; and, according to dreamers and money-diggers, large treasures, both in gold and silver, have been buried in many of the nooks and corners of the old fort. Many applications used to be made to the American officers, to dig for money, and persons have been known to come from a considerable distance for that purpose. Such re- quests were, of course, refused. Of late years, matter of fact has been more strange than romance. William Morgan was kidnapped from the jail in Canandaigua ; carried in a post coach, undis- covered and by violence, for more than one hundred miles, through a populous country ; the perpetrators, at the time, unsuspected ; was lodged in the magazine at Fort Niagara, for three or four days ; and then was no more seen. He was the last human victim ofTered up in these recesses of oppression and blood. 218 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. John Carroll. In the summer of 1839, the United States government commenced to rebuild the fortifications of Fort Niagara, and it is stated, that it will be again put in a respectable, and commanding condition. JOHN CARROLL. " A poor old soldirr The very naiuc ihcir loves engage." In the palmy days of Fort Niagara, when the surround- ing country first commenced to be settled, the command- ing officer was in all respects a petty sovereign, not al- ways ruling with a light or easy hand. The Lieutenants and under officers were likewise persons of great conse- quence, and a very good feeling did not always prevail be- tween the independent, sturdy, first settlers and the mili- tary ; but now the show and eclat of military command have vanished, and the farmer, the mechanic and the man of business fill their allotted stations, without rivalship or annoyance. From many of the former residents of Fort Niagara there might be selected characters, a descriptive notice of whom, would be interesting to general readers. Some for their true nobility, some for their meanness, and others for peculiarities especially their own. But one, however, will be here noticed, and his rank was no higher than that of an army musician. JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. 219 John CarrolL Whether he was brolher or cousin to Carroll, the fa- mous Irish harper, is not known ; but, like him, he waa of all things devoted to mu?ic and whiskey. One morn- ing, Carroll played the troops, on paradej a very sprightly tune ; the commanding officer threw up his window, and called out '* Carroll, wbnt tune is that ?" " What the- dcvil ails you, sir?" replied Cnrroll. •' Yt»u old rastc-al ! What tune i3 that .'" the officer again vociferafcd. *' What Ihe devil nils you, sir?" was the rcpponse. *' Come up here, I wiU learn you to answer me in that \\ay," was next. Carroll habtened to the room, but was very careful to Bay, as aoon as ho opened the door, " Sir, the name of thu chune is what the devil ails you." " Gj about your businesj," said the Major. One day, when Carroll had been paying his devotions too fre;jly to Bacchus, in the use of his favorite beverage, nil J stagg,*ring on the parade, made a ludicrous figure in playing the retreat. The commandant gave hitn a per- sonal reprimand, and threatened him with confinement. Carroll was not then in eo beggarly a state as \o bear censure patiently, but felt as great as his officer, and as rich as a lord. He first retaliated in words, but shortly became so furious and ungovernable, as to make it ne- cessery to confine him ; and, what was very unusual, he was conveyed and locked up in the black hole. In the middle of the night, the most dismal sounds were heard from the place of his confinement ; and orders were given that he should be looked to. He was found in a piteous condition ; declaring that he had been visited by 220 JAUNT TO THE WHIRLPOOL. Jaunt concluded. all the hobgoblins, and all the devils in existence ; that they came to him immediately at his entrance, and had haunted him all the while he had been confined. He begged that he ''might be allowed a light, his fife, and pen, ink and paper ; that, by employing himself in some way, he might be able to drive away the horrid thoughts and phantoms that assailed him. His request was granted. In the morning, when he was released, and met the other musicians, ho produced them a tune which he said he had composed during the latter hours of his confinement. He called it " Carroll's thoughts on eter- nity." Besides this, he composed several marches, waltzes, and other pieces ; many of which possessed considerable merit. He died in 1812, of the epidemic which at that time prevailed in the army. JAUNT TO CANADA, IN THK VICINITY OK THE FALLS; VISIT TO TAIU.E KOCK, BROCK'S MONUMENT, vScc. WITH NOTICES OF QUEE.NSTON, FORT GEORGE, &c. CANADA. " I'rinrrs .ind lords may (loiirisli or may fade ; A broatli can make them, as a breath has made : But a bold peasantry, their coumry's pride, Wht'ii once destroyed, can never be supplied." That portion of Upper Canada, designated in the dea- patches of Gen. Brown, as the peninsula lying between lakes Ontario and Erie, bounded east on the Niagara river, and extending west about one hundred and fifty miles, is one of the finest tracts of country in North America. The soil is fertile, the climate 6nIubriouH«, and the scenery beautiful. Besides being bounded ion three sides with navigable water communication, there / 222 JAUNT TO CANADA. Impressions of travellers. also passes over it many fine etreame and rivulets. The state of improvemont is very respectable: the whole tract is only equalled by Western New- York, whose inhabit- ants, in enterprise, are yet considerably in advance of those of Canada. The settlement.?, on the western side of the Niagara river, took place during and immediately after the war of the revolution. On the American side, except at three points, it commenced much later, and large tracts of the native forests are still remaining. The first settlers to this part of Canada, were from the nor- then and western borders of Pennsylvania, and New-York; Butler's rangers; the followers of Sir J. Johnson, and others, who preferred the paternal government of Great Biitain to the republican institutions of the people. The proximity of the two countries, the same language, and similarity of pursuits, have so assimilated the inhabitants, that a stranger, not knowing the political division, in passing from one to the other, would still think himself among the same people. It was not so with Captain Basil Hall, when he landed in Canada from the United States, and trod again on British ground; his chest expanded — he breathed more free — the air seemed purer; and, seeing a British eoldier near Brock's monument, he hastened towards him, and embraced him as a brother. It is the reverse with an American. When he goes to Canada, he feels himself from home, and experiences a degree of constraint to ' which he has not been familiar. With feehnge no leea ibuoyant than those of Capt. Hall, when ready, he returns tec his own shore rejoicing, and grateful for the freedom whic>h his forefathers won. Still, Americans always leave JAUNT TO CANADA. 223 Tlie Ferry. Canada pleased with the country, and gratified with the civility with which they are usually treated. The sensa- tions that animate both Americana and Britons in passing into a foreign land, though apparently dissimilar, yet arise from the same source — love of country — of home, and veneration for long cherished institutions. VIEW FROM THE STAIRS. " And hark ! the bugle's mellow strain. From hill to hill is ringing -, And every zephyr, o'er the plain, The joyful note is bringing. The eagle from his eyry darts. To hear the flying numbers • And echo, in her grotto, starts, Awakened from her slumbers." The party of travellers arc at the top of the bank, and commence the descent of the long flight of stairs, in order to cross the river. They stop at the foot of the first flight, and enjoy a fine view of the Falls, and the river below. The view below extends about two miles, where the wa- ters again break into billows, and white with foam, seem to sink into some subterraneous cavern, as they disappear behind the projecting cliffs. Inquiry is often made, " How was the bank descended before the stairs were built?" The descent was made by means of the Indian ladder, half a mile further down the river, and here, by clinging 19 224 JAUNT TO CANADA. Tei-ilous descent of the ladder. to the rocks and shriibe. The next improvement was a ladder, eighty feet long, placed nearly perpendicularly against the bank. Last war, it was thrown down. The same year that peace was proclaimed, and before another ladder was erected, a party of ladies and gentlemen from Boston, visited the Falls; and, incredible as it may appear, descended and ascended the bank, at this place, by holding fast to the rocks. One of the ladies observes — "Their curioaity must have been very intense, to induce them to expose them- selves to 60 much danger." A traveller replies — " Even the ladder waa difficult and dangerous to many who descended it for the first time. A gentleman once described to me his passing down the ' ladder in the following terms: * When I was a youth, I visited the Falls, in company with a lad of about my owu age. It was in 1808. "We caine to the top of the bank, and after viewing the great scene from above, we recon- noitered the prospect below, and the means of getting down. I became very anxious to descend, but the view was much more wild and terrific than at present; and I had some slight apprehensions. I desired my companion to accompany me, but he declined. I had not been used to climbing or descending ladders, and such wild scenes were not familiar. I concluded to venture, and commen- ced to go down, I soon discovered that every step I descended, I had to hold on still more firmly; but down I got. I then threaded my way along the rough and slip- pery path to the water's edge, and thence to the mist and falling water. It was a chaotic scene to me; the water poured from above; the mists rushed over, and the Falls JAUNT TO CANADA. 225 Perilous descent of the ladder. roared. I felt as if buried alone ia the deep and roeky chasm. I looked up, and saw my companion, no larger, apparently, than an infant. Like the first travellers who visited the Falltj, and reported them to be six hundred feet high, to me the bank and Falls appeared no Ices; and their actual height I did not then know. I glanced at the long ladder standing against the rocks, which I had again to ascend, and became oppressed with fear; and thought, if once safe on the upper bank, that I would not soon again be caught in that horrid place. At length I slarlod up; 1 reached the ladder, and began the ascent. I looked flbove; the height appeared almost interxninable. I cast my eyes below; my head became dizzy. 1 found it my only security to direct my eyes in front, against the black and projecling rocks. My feet touched the ladder with weak and unsteady steps, and my hands clinched it with my utmost strength. When I successively let go to take another hold, it seemed as if all power was gone, or as if a heavy load was attached to my arms to keep them from rising. On 1 went, my eyes still directed against the rocks, and exerting my strength almost to exhaustion. I reasoned with myself, and endeavored to fcubdue the apprehensions that overcame me; I thought of the folly of my fears, and that it required but a slight exertion to hold to the ladder; and that there was no necessity of grasping it with such death-like energy. If it was twenty times as high, I thought I could ascend it. At once I attempted to be lees exercised, and took hold of the rungs carelessly; but, if I had not instantly grasped them with all my might, I should have fallen to the bottom; and it required all the strength I was master of, to recover my position. I found 226 JAUNT TO CANADA. Convenience for travellers. that I had vainly flattered myself; and with more and more difficulty did I rise, and more firmly was I obliged to hold. Though requiring but about five minutes to make the ascent, it appeared to be the labor of half an hour, at least. At length I reached the summit, and with joy I once more found myself on level land. I advanced to- wards my companion, who was seated on a rock at a short distance, but, to my surprise, my legs refused their office, my knees bent under me, and I barely succeeded in walking. I rallied myself, and determined to walk erect, but in spite of every effort to the contrary, my knees continued for some minutes to give way; and I was con- vinced that I had been greatly frightened. I afterwards frequently descended, but never again with such emotions.* It was certainly a hazardous way of descending the bank, and particularly for ladies and persons of weak nerves. The public are much indebted for the present conveniences afforded to visiters, and for nothing more than the differ- ent staircases." The guide observes — "It is well thought of by some, and they are willing to pay for the many accommodations they receive: others think that these conveniences should be erected and maintained gratuitously, and complain of being taxed at every turn." Traveller. — "It is very unreasonable to expect that people should go to great expense in providing these ac- commodations, and also give their personal attention with- out reward." Guide. — " There is another class, that object to these conveniences, they are hunting for adventure and hair- breadth escapee, about the Falls ; they wish, on their JALNT TO CANADA. 227 Catlin's Cave. return, to relate the imminent danger they were in, or the daring enterprises they performed." Traveller. — "As to that matter, there is room enough yet. Let them go down the bank, where there are no stairs, if they disapprove of them: let them wander under the perpendicular rocks; pass to Ingraham's cave; take an excursion in a boat, ond pass from Bath island to the isl- ands lying just ^bovc the Falls; swim the Niagara river; or, in a boat, pass to the rapids below. There is yet room for the wildest adventure about Niagara; but after all, the greater portion of mankind are fond of seeing exciting scenes from safe positions. And the various facilities of communication, and other conveniences for strangers, are worth all that is charged for them." The stairs that descend the bank were built by and belong to Judge Porter. The ferry also, from the Ameri- can side, belongs to him: from the British side it belongs to Samuel Street, Ejq. The first boat put on the river at this place, was by Gen. Parkhurst Whitney. He built the first stairs down the bank, and established the first ferry. Having arrived at the foot of the stairs, the very fine view of the Falls, which is there presented, is noticed by the party. Thence they wind around the eloping bank to the landing place; the boat is ready to receive them; and they are soon floating over the convulsed and agitated waters. Hoods, India rubbers, oil cloths and umbrellas, are brought into requisition, to shield them from the de- scending mist that gushes away from the falling stream. Catlin's Cave, is about a mile below, on the American side. It can only be visited by going along the bottom 19* 228 JAUNT TO CANADA. Crossing the river. of the perpendicular bank, or near the water's edge. — Travellers usually employ the ferryman to take them in a boat. The cave is about twenty feet in circumference, or about the size of a baker's large oven; and the entrance just big enough to admit the body of a man. When dis- covered, it was almost filled with beautiful Btalactites, but they have been all removed. Around the cave are large quantities of petrified moss, and springs of water gush out above and at the sides of the cave, in a peculiar and beautiful manner. Bender's Cave, is on the Canada side, a little further down than Catlin'e. It is about twenty feet from side to side, is high enough for persons to stand in, and has a floor of pure white sand. To persons of leisure, both caves are worth visiting, and afford a pleasant excursion. Before the bridge to Iris island was built, parties used to visit the lower end with boats, by passing up between the two sheets of water; some are still fond of making the trip, as they advance very close to the Falls, which is to many very interesting. Usually, visitors are greatly delighted with the view of the Falls which is obtained in crossing the ferry. To- wards the centre of the river, the mist is dispelled, and the prospect of the immense body of falling water is un- obscured by any intervening object. The whole sublimity of the scene is displayed. Besides this, the eddies are strong, the waters dance round the boat, the boat itself rocks and bounds along, and some of the obtrusive waves dash over upon the passengers. The ladies become alarm- ed; but they hardly have time to inquire if there is not danger, before the dashing of the waves has ceased, the JAUNT TO CANADA. 229 Village of Clifton. boat glides smoothly over subdued and dead swells, and soon reaches the Canada shore. The passengers step forth upon the rocks that line the shore. The mighty cataract is pouring its ocean of wa- ters before them, but, if they are Americans, it has ceased to be the only curiosity, and their attention is called to persons and characters. Sentries, in the red and showy uniform of England, are paceing the rocky shore; or a portion of the British army may be observed performing their evolutions nt the top of the bank. The notes of the bugle are often heard in the distance, and sometimes the martial strains of the full regimental band breaks upon the traveller's ears. VILLAGE OF CLIFTON. This village comprises a fine plat on the first and second rise of land above the ferry. Tbe road leading from the river to Drummondville passes through the centre. It lies directly in front of the Falls, and commands a full view of the river, of the great cataract, and of the Ameri- can shore. Clifton House, stands just at the head of the hill from the ferry. Tbe party proceed along the bank of the river until coming near a house containing a large Camera Obscura, which beautifully reflects the Falls. To many, it is a new and pleasing sight, and is always worth a visit. 230 JAUXT TO CANADA. Table Rock. Proceeding further, Mr. Barnet's mussura attracts their attention, and they enter to see his curiosities. No per- Eon who visits this musuem will regret the time or the trifling expense; and all that have visited it, have depar- ted pleaeed and gratified. It is one of the best collections of birds and animals any where to be met with. They are preserved in a very neat style. The animals and birds are generally those of the country, and look almost E8 if living. The birds seem not to have lost a feather, and appear as if ready to raise their wings to fly. Mr. Barnet makes his own preparations; and, for the beautiful manner he performs his work, he is unexcelled. lie pre- pares for visitors, animals or birds to order, or will sell to them out of his stock on hand. Besides birds and ani- mals, there are many other curiosities in this museum, worth seeing. The party, after spending half an hour very pleasantly, bend their course towards Table Rock. TABLE ROCK. •' And still wiih sound like Looming peal From distant thunder given, ForUi, forth from out the dark abyss, The rushing s;ream is driven." Although much of this rock has fallen from time to time, within the memory of many yet living, still it pro- jects some forty or fifty feet over the bank. Through a considerable portion of it runs a wide and deep fissure, evidencing that it will not be many years before the outer JAUNT TO CANADA. 231 Passing under ihe sheet of water. portion will be launched below. Some years since, the person who kept the winding stairs, at Table Rock, gave notice that on a certain day, (it was on the occasion of one of the vessels going over the Falls,) he should put a number of kegs of powder in the fissure of the rock, and blow it off. It wns expected that it would make a tre- mendous crash. But the gentleman who owned the prin- cipal interest in the privilege, would not allow it to be done, as it would have put an end to the charm of the place — the visit under the sheet of water. Traveller. — " If the rock is safe, the gentleman did right in preserving it; but if it hangs jeopardising the life of human beings, it ought to be blown off." Guide. — '* We arc now on it, and you must judge for yourselves." Traveller. — ** It may stand for half a century, or may give way while we are talking about it. It has no doubt, too dangerous a look for a man to think of building a residence on, yet, for a Niagara Falls enthusiast, and I have both seen and heard of such, it is just the spot." PASSING UNDER THE SHEET OF WATER. *' The glittering stream, the spray with rainbow round, The dizzy height, tlieroar, the gulf profound." Near to Table Rock, there is an establishment at which dresses are provided, and guides furnished to conduct trav- 232 JAUXT TO CANADA. The descent ellers under the rock, and thence under the sheet of water. Several of the party conclude to make the excuraion, and enter the house. The lad''es start back in astonishment and dismay, as they see rising up, apparently from a lower apartment, half a dozen villainous looking charac- ters, arrayed in canvass jackets, and in India rubber and oil cloth cloaks; some with caps flapped over their necks, and others with tarpaulin elouched hats, a good repreeen- tation of Italian banditti; but, as they seemed to be satur- ated with wet, and the water ran in streams from them, it was no great stretch of fancy to imagine them demons of the Falls. The party come forward, laughmg and chatting gaily; and the sweet treble of women's voice, mixed with the louder yet well modulated tones of the men, would, at least, have passed them off as a gay set of masqueraders. An explanation soon takes place; they prove to be a company of ladies and gentlemen jiist retur- ned from under the sheet of water. Similar dresses were soon provided for the new comers. The ladies remonstrated about the cow-hide shoes, much too big, and other grotesque looking articles with which they had to array themselves, and laughed heartily at each others odd and frightful appearance. They descend the stairs, make their way along the rocky path, and soon enter under the overhanging arch of Table Rock. In front is the sheet of water: below, at the left, is the river, white with foam, and on the shore large bodies of rock that have tumbled from the arch under which the travellers are winding their way ; and above, is the mighty mass divided into thousands of fissures, and rocks hanging equipoised, ready eveiy mo- JAUNT TO CANADA. 233 Termination Rock. inent to fall and crush those whose temerity leads them through that dangerous paes. But, aa no accidents have happened, visitors may look danger in the face, and movo cheerily along, not troubling themselves with any dis- turbing thoughts. They soon arrive in the mist, the rocks become slippery, but the guide directs and lends hie assistance, aeauring them that there is no danger. " Slill groping Uirough the dark recess, we find New scenes of wonder, to amuse the mind." The water, driven by the force of the wind, pours over them, and in spite of India rubber and water-proof guardr-, very few escape being drenched to the skin. At length, it is announced that they have arrived at Ter- mination Rock. There they stand and gaze upon the wonders of the place, until the eye becomes weary with seeing the white and mingling waters, and the ear tired of the deafening sound. Some just look in, and cast a fearful glance around, and then hurry away ; others re- main for half an hour, or more, seemingly enjoying the territic scene. Visitors usually go only to Termination Rock, but it is possible to advance 35 feet further. It is considered one of the adventures which Niagara so prolificly affords, to go under Table Rock. And tho proprietor furnishes a certificate, at a certain price, to all those who perform the exploit. A German prince, who visited the Falls, a few years ago, ofi'ered to pay two dollars, that sum being double the araoimt demanded, for a paper certifying that he had gone further under the Falls than any other man. The keeper would not take the bribe, but gave him the ordinary certiticate. 234 JAUNT TO CANADA. Going over the Falls. Having safely returned to the top of the rock, and re- euraed their colloquy with the guide, one of the party observes — ''It would be a dreadful sight to behold a boat, in which there were human beings, coming down the rapids and going over the Falls." Guide. — "That sight has never been witnessed; in all the cases that have occured, the boats have been capsized, and the persons thrown out in the rapids, and were lost to the eyes of those who stood on the shore before they reached the Falls ; and it is generally sup- posed that they perish before they pass over. GOING OVER THE PALLS. " What thoughts are iheirs, who, in the wat'ry detp, For a short space cling to pome hope forlorn. And tug for one more moment of sweet life — For precious and desired life ?" In 1810, a largo boat, loaded with upwards of 200 barrels of salt, was sailing up the river, from Schlosser. The wind was very high, and the boat being too deeply laden, the swell rolled over her, and she sunk. The mast at first projected out of the water, to which two of the crew secured themselves ; another, there being but three on board, seized the steering oar, on which he floated. The place where the boat sunk, was at the JAUNT TO CANADA. 2:35 (Join? over llie Falls. upper end of Navy Island. IL wai3 driven along by the force of the current, the boat touching the bottom, and, 03 it paieeed down, sinking deeper and deeper^ At length, the swells rolled over those who were on the maet, and at times they would sink from eight, and then, where the river was not eo deep, would again rise. One let go his hold, and made for the thore, but soon sunk; the other continued his hold upon the mast, until lost sight of. Both of them, without doubt, went over the Falls. The man who got the steering oar, succeeded in seating himself on it, and was drifting down the river. A gentleman, about a mile from Chippewa, observing him, ran his horse to that village, drove some men in a boat, and jumping in himself, put out, lifted the exhausted and helpless man with difficulty from the oar, and brought him safe to the shore. In their humane exertions to save the life of a fellow being, they got so far in the current, as to come very n«ar going over the Falls them.elves. The spirited gentleman who was the means of saving this man, was the talented and well known Doct. John J. Lailerty, of Upjicr Canatla. The occurrence of persona passing over the Falls is so frequent, that but a email part of the cases can be enu- merated. It being eo very dangerous for a long distance above, it might be supposed that people would be more careful; but they seem to be heedless of the risk, and rush with imprudence upon the impetuous and deceiving wa- ters. In 1620, two men were so neglectful of themselves, as to fall asleep in a boat, at the mouth of Chippewa creek, the bow of which lay on shore, but was not fastened. It was carried out in the stream, and was seen to capsize in '20 236 JAUNT TO CANADA CanaJ boat incirlent. the rapids, when the men were thrown out. For the space of thirty years, hardly a year has paseed without hearing of one or more persons going over the Fall& CANAL BOAT INCIDENT. " DGStriiction moves on yon descending wave, A seeming miracle alone can save." Besides the many fatal accidents that have happened, there have been a great many narrow escapes. Only one, however, will be mentioned here. A canal boat, in 1832, was going \]p the river, from Cliippewa. When two miles up, the towing line broke. The captain was eick below; one of the hands drove a horse that was on board into the water, and he swam ashore; the man, ako, jumped overboard, and reached the land. Besides the captain, there was left on board no other person belonging to the boat, but a boy. Of pas- sengers, there were two men and a woman. A trip over the Falls appeared inevitable. The wind was blowing freshly across the river, and the ready presence of mind o{ the woman suggested that some of the bed clothes should be got, and a sail erected. No time was lost, and an old quilt was soon hoisted to court the propitious breeze. They made way over, but much faster down. It was in the forenoon of a fine and pleasant day, their situation was noticed from both sides, and boats put out to their JAUNT TO CANADA. 237 L'unai bo;.l incident. relief. The persons were taken off juet before reaching the rapids. A dog only was left to pursue the perilous navigation. The boat passed down near the American shore, north of Iris island. The dog remained on deck, until she entered the rapids; and then, as she struck, and heaved, and bounded over the rocks, he would run below, look out of the cabin door, then jump on deck, and cast his eyes upon the water, doing as much as any eailor could in euch a situation. To the inhabitants of the village of Niagara Fall?, the boat came suddenly and unexpectedly hurrying along the rapids. It was not known to them whfthcr there were any persons on board or not. It was the ecason when the cholera prevailed at Chippewa, Buf- falo, Tonawanda, and through the whole course of the Erie canal. It was common, at many places, when in- fected persons were found to be on board of vessels or boats, to cause the craft to be anchored out in the stream. It was the general impression that this was an infected boat, and that it was probable that there were several miserable wretches below. The old quilt hanging out, and the filthy and dismal appearance of the boat, confirm- ed the impression. With these opimons, to the specta- tors the scene was painfully interesting, as the boat groaned and drove along, every moment expecting that it would be broken to pieces. It however made a lodgment on the rocks, just above the bridge that leads to the island; and a brave African dashed into the water with a rope, and secured it to the shore. The boat was not badly damaged, and was afterwards hauled out and transported half a inila by land, repaired, and again launched upon the wafer. The building standing on Table Rock, is for the pur- 238 JAUNT TO CANADA. Concert House. pose of forcing water to the village, or, as it was called, the City of the Falls. The first house on the hill, after passing Mr. Barnet's mueeum, is called the Concert House. It was erected for the double purpose of being used as a bath house and for concerts and assemblies. In the summer of 1838, it was a barracks for soldiers; and a beautiful display of white canvas tents along the green bank, which were occupied by the forty-third regiment, added considerably to the scenery about the Falls. These troops had every week a sham fight, making a handcome sight, exceedingly novel and interesting to American visitors. Guide. — "Having passed over all the great views, it is customary to inquire of travellers — which they prefer, the American views of the Falls, or the Canadian ?" Traveller. — " I perceive that it is true, there is in Can- ada one grand unvaried view, which surpasses any single view on the American side: but there is not that variety, that enchanting shifting of the scene, that occurs as we pass along on the American shore and islands." While the party are yet lingering around Table Rock, pometimes gazing on the Falls, making inquiries, and des- canting upon the surrounding scenery, several objects are brought to their notice. The island just above the Falls, and lying nearly level with the water, is called Long island. By damming the water from the side next the main shore, a slight injury is done to the prospect. The island about half a mile above the Falls, which hugs in close to the shore, and around which a small branch of the Niagara passes, is called Round island, and eometim.es Cynthia island. JAUNT TO CANADA. 239 Samuel Street, Esq. — Col. Clark. The dwelling house embowered in trees, below the brow of the hill, and beyond the milla which are seen at the side of the river, is the residence of Samuel Street, Esq. an American gentleman, long resident in Canada. The house just discernible on the hill beyond Mr. Street's, was the residence of Col. Thomas Clark, now deceased, and long the partner of Mr. Street. He was a Scotchman, ajid represented in himself an excellent specimen of Scotch nationality. In his youth, he was as strong and hardy as his own native mountains. At an early period, he performed the extraordinary feat of walk- ing from the Falls of the Genesee river to Black Rock, on the Niagara, in one day. He started a little before sunrise, and arrived at Black Rock before nine at night, having travelled the whole distance on an Indian path. He was a man of great capacity in business, and very exact and regular. When travelling, a few years since, in company with the author, although he was then worth millions, the Colonel was observed to make an entry in a pocket memorandum book; and he remarked at the time, '* I have never spent a sixpence without making a regular entry and account of it, and I do so still." He left a great estate to three already wealthy maiden sisters in -Scotland, and Canada, (where his wealth had been made,) was for- gotten in his will. At the upper end of Round island, is the place called Bridgewater. There was once on this spot extensive mills, and quite a little village. The works had been erected at great expense, and much labor bestowed upon the bank to prevent slides; but during the last war, the hand of destruction was stretched over the rising prospects 20* 240 JAUNT TO CANADA. Burning Spring. of the place, and the mills and most of the houses of the village were burnt. Since then, it has been abandoned, and almost forgotten. There is now nothing interesting, but the burning spring. Of late years, the water of the river is so high as to cover the spring. When it is in a state to collect the gas, travellers very generally go to it. Two miles from the Falls, is Chippewa, a village of considerable consequence, and more noted from its con- tiguity to the great battle which took place in lfel4. It was fought just above the town, and the ground is now imdistinguishable in any way except by fields and enclo- sures. In the winter of 1837 — 3, Chippewa was the scene of action of McNabb'g forces. There they erected batteries, whence shells and rockets w^ere thrown on Navy island. The party now pass from Table Rock, and if they conclude to remain for some time in Canada, they go to the Clifton House; and at their leisure visit Drumniond- ville — go to the Whirlpool on the British side, which is four miles — to Brock's monument and Queenston, eight miles — Niagara and Fort George, fourteen miles. If they conclude to return to the American shore, they take a new route back, by rising the hill near where stood the Pavilion, and thence pass on to Drummondville, and round to the ferry. JAUNT TO CANADA. 241 Citv of the Falls. THE CITY OF THE FALLS. The property of William Forsyth, comprising about four hundred acres of land, and lying in the immediate vicinity of the Falls, was purchased some years since by Thomas Clark, Samuel Street, and a number of other gentlemen. The grounds were laid out into squares and streets, suitably for the accommodation of a large city. An act of incorporation was talked of, in which foreigners were to be allowed some special privileges, and measures were taken for the encouragement of those disposed to purchase and build. Some sales were made. For a while the prospect was favorable, and several advantages were offered to induce people to make investments; and more would have done so, but the proprietors becoming lax in their measures, improvements stopped, and the place has been stationary for some years. As it is a commanding situation, on a dry and pleasant soil, and enjoys some of the finest prospects in the world, it only requires the en- couragement which the proprietors can well afford, to have it go ahead at any time they may think proper to determine. It has around it a flourishing coimtry, thickly populated by wealthy freeholders, whose farms are in a high state of cultivation. 242 JAUNT TO CANADA. Drummondville. DRUMMONDVILLE. " What booti? the oft repeated tale of strife, The fcabt of vultures, and the waste of life." This flourisliing village stands on the ground on which the mis-named battle of Bridgewater took, place. It is more properly known as the battle of Lundy's Lane. — After the battle, the American dead were thrown into a heap and burnt — and the Indians carried some of the wounded who were yet alive to share the same fate, but were stayed in their inhuman conduct by the exertions of the British soldiers. Of one, it is related, that seeing an Indian dragging a wounded American to the flames, who was begging for his life, he despatched the Indian, threw his body into the heap, and saved the American. This was the greatest battle which took place on the frontier. The report of the cannon was heard for the dis- tance of a hundred miles, and, to persons within four or five miles, the incessant discharge of fire-arms sounded like the continuous roll of a drum. The roar of the Falls was not heard amid this din of human combat. JAUNT TO CANADA. 243 (General Brock's Monument. ^ BROCKS MONUMENT. " Awny, away, earth's pageantry, Her brightest gems are dhn ; And glittering wealth, and power and fame, How worthless now to him." Brock's Monument stands on Queenston heights, a short distance south of the village. It is built of a soft whitish stone, taken out of the mountain near by. The base is twenty feet square, the shaft round, and rises one hundred and twenly-six feet from the ground. It cost about eight thousand dollars, and was buiU at the expense of the Provincial government. It occupies a beautiful and 244 JAUNT TO CANADA. Extensive prospect. commanding site, and overlooks Fort Grey, on the Amer- ican side, a large battery erected mainly to cover the attack upon Queenston, and the roads and cultivated farms beyond the opposite heights for several miles. Be- low lies Lewiston, with its streets and orchards spread out before the spectator as a garden, and from which passes to the east the celebrated Ridge Road. Thence along the brow of the heights, the prospect extends north as far as the eye can reach, and across Lake Ontario to its north- ern bounds. On the Canada side, the view is equally fine. The beautiful little village of St. Davids, distant but a few miles at the west, peeps out from under the diverging hills ; and far beyond, a large tract of level country, interspersed with improved farms, but generally appearing like a dense forest, to the shore of the lake. Below, and directly in front, is the antique looking village of Queenston, and the Niagara river, bending its serpen- tine course to the lake, and forming the boundary of two great nations. At the mouth of the river, on the Ameri- can side, rise the fortifications of old Fort Niagara, and where is beheld waving in the breeze the star spangled banner of liberty. On the British side, is the town of Niagara and Fort George, where floats the proud stan- dard of England. General Brock did not fall on the spot where the monu- ment is erected, but down the hill, in a northwesterly direction, about eighty rods distant, near a cherry tree, in the rear of Queenston. He was at the head of hie men, cheering them on to action. He was first interred in the northeastern bastion of Fort George, and a twenty- four pound American cannon captured with Hull, placed JAUNT TO CANADA. 245 Destruction of Brock's Monument. at his head. After the monume.it was built, his remains, with those of his aid, Col. McDonald, were deposited here with much pomp, on one of the anniversaries of the battle of Queenston. To Americans, this monument must cause but one emo- tion — sorrow for their fellow citizens who fell in that ill- fated battle. One part of that badly directed and bloody conflict, related by an eye witness, is sufficient. A short distance below the monument stands a log house. To- wards the close of the battle, a portion of the Americans were driven down the hill, and as many as could, crowded into Ihe house. For a short period, they fired on their pursuers from the doors and windows; but for some mo- ments after they ceased firing, the enemy continued to fire in upon them. This sight, with the piteous cries of our drowning countrymen, who sought to escape the car- nage of that day, by endeavoring to swim the Niagara, makes Brock's monument, to those Americans who were eye witncBsea of the battle of Queenston, no object of veneration. On the 17th of April, 1840, an attempt was made to destroy this memorial of the gallant Brock, by blowing it up with gunpowder. The circular stairs within the mon- ument were torn to pieces, stones were thrown out of the wall, and it was rent from the bottom to the top. This act was attributed to the noted radical patriot, Benjamin Lett. He neither admitted nor denied the charge; but observed to those who spoke to him about it, " They may lay it to me." In the August following, a great meeting of iiie Cana- dian authorities, of the military and Canadian subjects, 246 JAUXT TO CANADA. Town of Niagara. was held at the monument, to devise means to repair, or rebuild it. An individual ascended to the top, and fixed a flag on it, though the monument was in a shattered con- dition. Contrary to the opinion of many who had seen Brock's monument since the attempt was made to blow it up; who supposed, that though shattered, it might yet stand for many years, in the month of February, 1841, a part of it fell, and it is now left a perfect ruin. TOWN OF NIAGARA. This is one of the oldest settlement in Canada. It ier pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, and is bounded on the north by Lake Ontario. It once had the prospect of being an important place, and had all the ad- vantages that insure prosperity; but it has not advanced as was expected. Many of its most wealthy and enter- prising men have carried their business and resources to other places; others appear to have slumbered over the advantages which they enjoyed at home, and suffered their neighbf)rs to advance ahead of them. Still it is a place of considerable wealth, more enterprise is evinced, and from its fine location, it must eventually arrive to eminence and respectability. MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. MEDICINAL VIRTUES OF THE AIR AT NIAGARA FALLS. This may appear startling, though it is indeed nothing more than what is admitted by all who have spoken or thought on the subject. While some waters possess pro- perties, the medical virtues of which are admitted, others are deleterious. So with airs; while some are destructive to animal life, others are ambrosial, grateful, and invigor- ating. That there is not only a salutary and exhilarating quality in the atmosphere of Niagara Falls, but also supe- rior medical virtues, is believed by many. No epidemics have prevailed here. When the cholera raged through all the country, no case occurred within the domain of the misty cloud. Here there are no poisonous vapors arising from stagnant pools; no miasma from marshes or swamps; but the moisture with which the air is saturated, is driven up from the fall of broken waters — not raised by the in- fluences of heat or cold, but purified and buoyant, it floats away from the clear stream, and we breathe it, charged as it is with ten thousand particles, fresh from nature's great alembic. We not only see and hear, but feel, and taste, and breathe the Falls. 21 248 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. Geology of Niagara river. GEOLOGY OF NIAGARA RIVER. Here is a great field for geological and mineral re- search. The rocks in many places are laid bare to a great depth, and many of the most interesting spots for such examinations have never yet been visited, owing to the difficulty of getting to them. Slight notices of the form- ation and character of the rocks in this neighborhood, have been laid before the public, by the New-York State geologists, but it is not known that they have devoted much time to a careful examination. There are known to be saline waters at the Five Mile Meadows, and sulphu- rous and gas springs upon the mountain. Argillaceous iron ore is found on the bank of the river; many specimens of lead ore are obtained, and in one instance a large lump of several pounds was picked up. Common and water lime, and building stone are abundant, and gypsum is also supposed to be plentiful. In a late examination along the river, at a bare part of the bank, where it is exposed for two hundred feet, there was observed to be in one of the lower strata of the rocks, of several feet in width, a dark streak, much resembling lead or coal. It may be neither; but the careful examination along the borders of the river, will undoubtedly lead to some interesting results. MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. 249 Mineral specimens. MINERAL SPECIMENS. Large quantities of beautiful specimens have often been found, or broken out of the rocks, around the Falls. Many of them are offered for sale to visitors. Some of them are very valuable. Niagara Falls has also become a mart for canes and In- dian curiosilics; moccasins, worked with beads and porcu- pine quills; Indian work pockets, needle cases, war clubs, bark canoes, maple sugar in fancy boxes ornamented with quills, &c. JOHN DOWNING, AND THE WHIRLPOOL. " He lives ! from out the whirlpool's depths, From out a wat'ry grave !" This is not the celebrated Jack Downing, but may be a reiTiote relative of the family; however, he performed a voyage which the navigator of the Two Follies would hardly attempt. In 1811, Mr. Downing, with others, was cutting cedar posts at the Whirlpool, on the British side, for palisades at Fort George. Th^sy were made into small rafts, and set adrift where the current passes out from the Whirlpool, and were afterwards picked up in the river between Queenston and the Fort. While he waa fixing Bomelhing on one of the rafts, the end lying on the 250 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. Deatk of Doci. Hungerford. shore, it dipped into the water, and before hie companions could help him, he was carried out of their reach. Slowly the raft receded from the shore, passing up the stream. It remained in the Whirlpool and eddies, for nearly half a day, but was not drawn into the principal vortex. At length, the raft was thrown so near the shore, that his companions reached out to him a long pole, on which Mr. D. seized and escaped from his perilous situation. He said that he was carried round with his raft seventy times. At one time he was on the outer circle of a whirl- pool which descended to the centre at least thirty feet. There he thought he should be engulphed, and he consid- ered death as certain, in an instant; but very fortunatc-ly, and singularly, his raft was struck with a current which carried it in a contrary direction, and finally brought it to within a few feet of the t-hore. DEATH OF DOCT. HUNGERFORD. " Oh death ! slern tyrant of our fleetinfr hours, To thousanrl shapes thou trick'st thine antic powers ; Youth, manhood, age, are all alike to thee ; Creation bends beneath thy s'.ern decree." Many narrow escapee, and many sad and serious acci- dents have occurred around the Falls; but at length it has become the painful duty of the annalist to record an inci- dent of a new and fatal character. Since the first discov- ery of these profoundly interesting yet fearful scenes, visitors have with impunity rambled above and beneath MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. 251 Dcaili of Doct. Hungerford. the overhanging rocks; and though the danger was evi- dent to the eye, no accident had happened, no event had taken place to warn thera of the hazard to which they were expofscd. About ten o'clock in the forenoon of the twenty-seventh of May, 1839, Doctor Ilungerford, of Troy, N. Y. with Mr. Nile, of Columbus, O. and Mr. Lindsey, their guide, were viewing the river and Falls, near Ingraham's cave, below the point of Iris island. Doct. Hungerford was slanding between the guide and Mr. Nile. After looking awhile upon the scene, the guide concluded that all had been seen at thot point interesting to the travellers, and remarked that they would now go to another place. At that instant, he saw the air filled with earth and falling stones; all endeavored to spring aside. Doct. Hungerford fell. Mr. Lindsey immediately raised him, and, with the ossistance of Mr. Nile, bore him to a more secure place. They were not at first aware of the fatal injury he had received. The rocks had struck him on the back of the heod, and o« hie neck and shoulders. He breathed but a few times, ond expired without a groan or the least con- vulsive motion. Mr. Lindsey, too, received several severe contusions, and had his coat and pantaloons torn, but did not notice his own bruises until some time after. About half an hour before, the party had been standing on the edge of the bank immediately above the spot where Doct. Hungerford met his death. While there, he was engaged in taking notes of the scene in his memorandum book; and, the last words he wrote were — " I fear not, I dread not, though cataracts oppose, The rocks that support me I'll rend as nay foes." 21* 252 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. An adventure among the Rapids. It is not wonderful that thig sad accident should have happened ; but centuries may roll away, and thousands and tens of thousands of individuals pass and repass in safety, as they hove done, before such another melancholy disaster is again witnessed. AN ADVENTURE AMONG THE RAPIDS. " Be collected ; No more amazement : tell your piteous heart There's no harm done." On the twenty-fifth of July, 1839, an occurrence hap- pened at the Falls, of great dramatic effect, and of much anxiety and interest to the actors, as well as to those who were lookers on. The great rapids which pass down the American side, between the main shore and among the islands, that lead directly to the Falls, have ever been beheld with aston- ishment and awe. Upon the bridge which spans this impetuous stream, two men were at work, Myron Chapin and William Murray. A plank accidentally fell in the water on the upper side of the bridge; Chapin was struck by one end, and thrown in. To say the water here runs like a mill-race, conveys but a slight idea of its raging violence. Murray missed his companion, but while he was for a moment wondering in his mind at his sudden disappearance, he cast his eyes over the side of the bridge, and saw him struggling in the water, which was bearing MISCELLANEOUS .NOTICES. 253 Chapin in the rapids. him rapidly along to the cataract. The day was beautiful, the air was gently undulated by the dashing watere", and possessed all those refreshing and bracing powers for which the Niagara atmosphere has become so much esteemed. A great number of vieitors were around the island, and several were passing on the bridge. A man contending with the driving torrent, pitching over descending ridges, and rolling headlong towards the Falls, was to them a sudden and fearful sight. Quicker than the cry of ' fire!' the words flew, " a man is off the bridge, in the rapids, going over the Falls!" It fell like a shock on the ear, and all hurried to witness a fellow being in such a dread- ful extremity; to see his agony; his struggle for hfe; his looks of despair on that terrific verge; and the plunge into the deep and foaming aby.??. The eyes of all, as they assembled, became rivclted upon him, as he vainly con- tended against the powerful billows which were bearing him along to destruction, apparently so inevitable. It was a spectacle of thrilling interest and anxiety to the beholders. The raging waters dashed resistlessly along, and the Falls roared their hoaroc and hollow moan, as he was forced over the descending steps, and every moment neared him to his fate. A small island lay at the left of his downward course, and a ray of hope arose that he might reach it. It was evident that he was struggling for that isolated spot, A moment more and he will reach the island, or pass on to that terrific plunge — it was a moment of suspense, in which the fate of a fellow being would be determined for life or death. He gained it — he rose from the water, and stood forth as one escaped from destruction. This isle is about twenty feet wide, 254 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. Chapin reaches an island. and about thirty feet long, and is eight or ten rods above the sheet of falling water: a small bat deep channel runs between it and the next island; the foot of man had never before pressed upon its turf, or trod upon its rocks. Tho* many had dared to venture in the most dangerous places among the rapids, yet this island had remained unvisited, and was considered inaccessible. There, on that lonely spot, cut off from his fellow mea; what could be done for his relief? An hour or more intervened; a small boat was got from Canada; but who was to attempt that dangerous riaviga- tion. Joel R. Robinson, spoken of in another part of this work as a most skilful waterman, and which had been written of him six months before this occurrence, had lately met with an accident. His thumb, and a part of his hand, had been taken off by a circular saw, and tho wound was yet in an unsound state. He was found, the disaster hastily related to him; and he proved true the words which had been spoken of him in relation to his going over the Whirlpool in a life boat: "He will not hesitate to attempt it." He enters the boat at the lower end of Bath island; examines with a careful eye the oars and the condition of the row-locks, and seating himself in the usual position, with his back to the prow of the boat, he shoves off into the white and fosming waters. He bends his way against the strong current around the island to the northwest corner, leading to the Falls: it descends stern foremost; the eyes of Robinson are upon the raging stream, on the Falls, the island, and on him to whose relief he is going. From the time Chapin was precipitated in the water to MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. 255 Robinson poes to his rescue. his reaching the island, a f^w minules only transpired. It was not so with Robinson: in that strong and bounding flood he descended slowly. He made true the language oflhepoet: he *' wantoned with the billows." At times he sat composedly in his boat, but slightly skimming the water; at other times he would throw out all his powers, to wrestle with the driving surges. When he had descend- ed a perpendicular pitch, be would for a moment repose on his oars, and his boat would stand spell-bound, as if chained to the spot, or as if waiting his further bidding. Thus leisurely he descends, the spectators beholding his progress in breatblsES solicitude. The wile of Chapin too, had arrived, and her heart beat with intense anguish, as she witnessed the attempt which was making to relieve her husband. At length, after about fifteen minutes, he nears the isle; to reach it he bprings into the water; the force of the current prostrates him; the boat slips from his hold and passes on; the aspiration dies upon the lips of the be- holders, " he is gone!" "he is lost!" In an instant he rises, plunges at the boat, seizes it, bounds into the seat, looks collectively around, deliberately takes the oars, dips them in the water, and in a moment more, boat and boat- man have passed from eight in the rear of the island. Whether he had landed, or whether the current had swept him down, was uncertain. Not long was the suspense. In a few minutes he was observed upon the top of the highest tree, and eevering the topmost branch, he waved it in the air; while the excited multitude answered in loud and repeated cheers. Before Robinson had mounted the tree, Chapin had met and embraced his deliverer 256 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. Tlieir safe return. After securing some branches of the trees and other me- morials of the island, they embark in the boat. Robinson does not take the same course back that he came; but one obliquely across the river, passing through the rapids that divide the islands that lie north of Iris island, and just above the Falls. It was a most perilous and difficult nav- igation: but the islands hid them from view nearly the whole distance. The multitude receive them with exul- ting cheers on Iris island; the wife of Chapin rushes for- w^ard to embrace her rescued husband; Robinson distributes to the assembly the branches of evergreens which he had torn from the island; a spontaneous collection is made for him, and he and Chapin being placed in the boat, they are triumphantly carried on the shoulders of the people across the bridge to the main shore; and what was begun in danger and imminent hazard of life, is concluded in hilarity and joy. The small island on which Chapin landed has, by gen- eral consent, received the name of Chapin's island. The next island lying southwest of it, and which is larger, has long been known by the name of Robinson's island, he having visited it in 1837, in company with Capt. Kowa- lewski, who planted the Polish flag on its extreme western point above the Falls. MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. *257 Clironolodeal Table. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. 16.58. First autliPtitic notice ot'ilie Falls. Hr78. They were visiteil by Father Hennepin. 1(J79. :?toi-ka'22. Two men, from Grand island, go over the Falls. Ib'Zo. William Chambers and another man, in a canoe, gc over the Falls. Cave discovered by Mr. Catlin, which bears his name. 258 MISCELLANEOUS NOTICES. Chronological Table. 1827. A vessel, called the Michigan, with aniniuls on board, is sent over the Falls. 1828. Another poriioii of Table Rock falls ; and in the same year, several large pieces of the rock composing the Horse Shoe Fall. 1829. Biddle Staircase built. Schooner Superior sent over the Falls. Sam, Patch jumps twice from a platform erected below the bank. Another part of Table Kock falls. cl. June 10. Francis Abbott drowned while bathing. 1832. A canal boat drifis across the river. Cholera prevails through, the country ; no cases at Niagara Falls village. 1834. July 1.5. Mr." Berry Hdl White and 3Ir. George Sims first enter Ingraham's Cave. 1835. 3Iay 10. A man went over the Falls. 1836. Great speculation in real estate. Two men in a skiff, go over the Falls. Cars first commence running on ihe Buffalo and Niag'ira Falls railroad. Alexander goes over the bank. 1837. Cars conniDence running on Ihe Lockport and Niagara Falls and Lewiston railroads. Dec. 29. Steamboat Caroline cut out from Schlosser, and burnt. 1838. Dec. 11. Captain Usher, at Slreel's Point, assassinated. 1S39. Feb. 19. Pavilion Hotel burnt. May 27 Doctor Hungcrford, of Troy, killed neur Ingraham's Cave, by sonje falling rocks, whilst viewing the Falls. July 25. Robinson res- cued Chupn froin the island. Sept. Episcopal Church burnt near Cl)ii;p"wa, by incendiaries. 1840, April 17. Brock's 31onumeiit blown up by incendiaries. DISTANCES. From the Cataract Hotel and Eagle Tavern to the top of the bank at the ferry, .... 100 rods. Thence to the water, ^^ 25 *' The river, at the ferry, is in width, . . . .-5^ " From the water's edge to the top of the bank, in Canada, 96 " Thence to the Clifton House, 10 " '/■» % * .% THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFOR> Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LA< STAMPED BELOW. 3 1205 02528 7077 B 000 019 463 9 ^. ,ri