R.li.^UtBlJU. l't> AN AUTUMN IN ITALY, BEING A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A TOUR IN THE AUSTRIAN, TUSCAN, ROMAN AND SARDINIAN STATES, IN 1827. BY J. D. SINCLAIR, ESQ. EDINBURGH : PRINTED FOR CONSTABLE AND CO. ; AND HURST, CHANCE, AND CO., LONDON. 1829. SfS" • • • * CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. THE ALPS AND ITALIAN LAKES. Page Introductory Remarks — Swiss Diligence— Fellow- Travellers — The Valais — Inn at Brigg — Alpine Scenery — Domo d'Ossola — Plains of Lombardy — Borromean Islands — Painters — Lake Scenery — St Carlo Borromeo — Luvino— Lugano — Italian Char- latan — Lake of Como — Villa Sommariva — Villa Melzi — Austrian Archduke — Como — Villa Pli- 15 CHAPTER IL MILAN. Milan — ^The Cathedral — Environs of Milan — Opera of La Scala — Austrian Officers — Museum of the Fine Arts — CofFee-Houses — Observations on Tra- velling — Review of Austrian Troops — Arch of the Simplon — Circus — Citadel — Fresco of the Last Supper — Anecdote — Leonardo Da Vinci — La Zec- ca — Police — Teatro Re — Puppets — Churches- Statues— The Cathedral — Hospitals — Basilica Am- jaTosiana — Corinthian Columns — San Celso — The Corso— Public Walks— Milanese Ladies — Italian Manners — The Opera — The Climate — Tourists and their Works '39 fj^Z2QS20 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. AUSTRIAN STATES. Page liodi— Napoleon — Francis — Appearance of the Coun- try — The Vintage — Cremona — Mantua — Hall of the Giants — A necdote — Virgil — Verona — Vitruvius The Marquis Maffei — Roman Amphitheatre — Sar- cophagus of Juliet — Female Fellow- Traveller — Vi- cenza — Palladio — Olympic Theatre — The Brenta — Venice — Decay of Venice — Piazz di San Marco — Bridge of Sighs— Marino Falieri — Ducal Palace — Its Paintings — Church of St Mark — Nobility — Venetian Women — Manners — Conversazione— Scuola Delle Belle Arti — Venetian School of Painting — Gondoliers — The Opera — Rosini — Gol- doni*3 Comedies — Music — The Arsenal — Public Gardens — Unpopularity of the Austrians— Porto Franco — Monastery of St Lazarus— Monasteries and Churches — Tombs of Titian and Canova — Ob- servations on Venice — St Mark's Tower — Galileo —The Rialto— Shakspeare— Otway 63 CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY TO FLORENCE. Padua, its University — II Salone — Singular Tradi- tion — Cenotaph of Petrarch — Arqua — The Po — The Rubicon — Ferrara — Tasso — Leonora — Tasso's Prison — Ariosto — Albergo Di Tre Mori — Adven- ture at Ferrara — Bologna — Leaning Tower — Bo- lognese School of Painting — University — Cassini —Urbanity of Bolognese Gentry— Mild Govern- ment of the Pope— Travelling Companions— Road across the Apennines — Volcano — Luminous Spring — Italian Girls — Apennine Scenery — Rural Ce- meteries — View of Florence 96 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. FLORENCE. Architecture of its Palaces— Madame Hombert's Hotel — The Gallery — Sculpture — The Medici Fa- mily — Palazzo Pitti — Its Pictures — Conova's Ve- nus — Boboli Gardens— Museum of Natural His- tory — Great Men— The English at Florence — Li- braries — Fellow-Travellers— Cathedral of S. Maria Del Fiore— Ghiberti's Bronze Doors — Church of Santa Croce— The Gallery — Painting — Florentine School— Portraits — English Artists — The Tribuna — Medicean Venus — Titian's Venus — Theatres — Opera- Houses — Church of S. Maria Novella — Dei Sepolchri— Tombs of the Medici — Michael An- gelo— Government — Libraries — Academies — Cha- rities — La Misericordia — The Buonuomini — No- bility—Florentine Society — Departure from Flo- rence 120 CHAPTER VL JOURNEY TO ROME. Vetturino Travelling — Travelling Companions — Ca- maldoli — St Romualdo — Milton — Vallambrosa — Arezzo— Aretino — Vasari — Rural Objects — Thra- simene — Country Inn — Tuscan Cameriere — Peru- gia — Etruscan Ruins — Paintings — St Francis — Friars — Nuns — Tact of Napoleon — Clitumnus — Spoleto — La Somma — Terni — Its Cascade — By- ron's Description — Narni — The Apennines — Ban- ditti—The Tyber — Triglia— Civita Castellana— Baccano — The Campagna — Ponte MoUe — Rome — Poi^ Del Popolo— Damon's Hotel . . . 150 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. ROME. X Page Piazza di Spagna — Monte Pincio— Villa Medici — Ancient Home — Roman Women — Aqueducts — Santa Maria Magiore — St Luke's Portraits — St Peter's — San Gio. Lateran — The Corsini Chapel — Sacred Relics — Pope Leo XII. — Reflections — An- glo-Latin — Pontifical Vespers — Sixtine Chapel — Cardinal Sommaglia — An Irish Friar — Memoir of Leo XII.— Pontificate of Leo XII.— Card. Delia Sommaglia — Englishmen in Rome — The Vituper- ative Traveller — Classic Recollections , . . 173 CHAPTER VIIL ROME CONTINUED. Attractions of Rome — Subterranean Church — A Con- versazione — Classic Ruins — Pasquin — Statue of Marc Aurelius — Triumphal Arches — Carcere Ma- mertina — The Coliseum — Palazzo Doria Pamtili^ Theatres— Castle St Angelo— -St Peter's — The Va- tican — Monument of the Stuarts — French Ambas- sador's Ball — Female Society — English Ladies- Villa Borghese — A Sunday at Rome — Italian Manners 203 CHAPTER IX. ROME CONTINUED. Palazzos — Borghese — Colonna — Italian Nobility — Painters, Ancient and Modern — Cafd Nuovo— Evening Amusements — Papal Court — English La- dies Abroad — Tivoli — Adrian's Villa — Tibur— - Cascade of Tivoli — The Ustica of Horace — Soiree at Torlonia's — Monte Cavallo — The Quirinal — Pillar of Trajan — Pompey's Statue— The Vatican CONTENTS. VU Page Library— St Pietro in Vincoli — The Pantheon — Capitoh'ne Gallery — Baths of Dioclesian — Baths of Caracalla — Palatine Hill — Tomb of Caius Cestus — Protestant Burying-ground 223 <^ CHAPTER X. ROME CONTINUED. Transtivere — St Cecilia— Cardinal Fesch — The Je- suits — Irish and Scotch Colleges— Asylum for As- sassins — Temple of Vesta — Tomb of the Scipios — Rural Excursion — Fountain of Egeria — Tomb of Cecilia Metella— Basilicon of St Paul— The Catacombs — Foreign Artists — Thorwaidsen's Stu- dio — Modern Roman Artists — Foreign Artists- Population — Revenue — Pilgrims — Government- Remarks on Leaving Rome 248 CHAPTER XL TUSCANY. Tomb of Nero — Cardinal Gonsalvi — National Cha- racter — The Maremma — Bolsena — San Lorenzo — Fellow-Travellers — Affray at Radicofane — Buon Convent© — Siena — Italian Republics — Tuscan Inns — Val d' Arno — Fiesole — Florence — Anecdote- Opera of la Pergola — Tuscan Manufactures — La Certosa — Don Fortunata — The Carthusians— At- tractions of Florence . .... . . . . 272 CHAPTER Xn. TUSCANY CONTINUED. Leghorn — Tomb of Smollett — Jewish Synagogue — The Mediterranean— Coral Manufacture — Pisa — VIU CONTENTS. Page Its Decay — The University — Torre di Fame — San Stefano— -The Cathedral — The Campo Santo—The Leaning Tower— The Lung Arno 293 CHAPTER XIIL SARDINIAN STATES. Massa — Lucca— Anecdote — Sarzana — La Spezzia — Ligurian Apennines — Chiavarri — Genoa — The Durazzo Palaces — The Doria Palace— Commercial Situation-^The Piazza Bianchi — Porto Franco — The Darsina — Harbour — Theatres — Morals — The Albergo Dei Poveri— Doge's Palace — Conscripts — Santa Maria in Carignano — The Court — Cookery —Religious Toleration— The Abate S • * * ♦—Ca- tholicism — Erroneous Hypothesis — Leave Genoa- Roads — Arrezzano — Agreeable Incident — Juve- nile Navigators — Savon a — Noli — Onegl ia — jV] oun- tain Scenery 307 CHAPTER XIV. SARDINIAN STATES CONTINUED. St Remo — Prince of Monaco— Anecdote of Napo- leon — Beautiful Women — Nice — Environs of Nice —Villa Franca — Galley Slaves — Society of Nice — Abdicating Kings — Review — Army — Savoy -^ Desolate Chateau — Poverty of the Savoyaids — Conclusion 336 AN AUTUMN IN ITALY. CHAPTER I. THE ALPS AND ITALIAN LAKES. The gi-adual obliteration of many deeply-root- ed prejudices, and erroneous opinions of our an- cestors, regarding the state of manners and feel- ings in foreign countries, affords a gratifying sub- ject for reflection to those who love to observe the progress of the human mind, and to trace its rapid strides in intelligence. Of late years, a con- stant intercourse with our Continental neighbours, has given rise to a more just appreciation of their national character. The illiberal notion of our own superiority is fast dying away, and almost ex- tinct among the higher classes. This must ever be the case where men are possessed of information sufficient to enable them jtH)^loolv •beyji)h^l the false 16 INTRODUCTORY REiMARKS. surface which disguises the truth ; and at no great distance of time, it is prohable that more enlight- ened views will also be diffused among the mass of the people. One great cause to which this de- sirable object may be attributed, is certainly to be found in our increased facilities of judging by ocu- lar demonstration. For my own part, abundant opportunities of detecting the erroneous accounts of mendacious travellers have been aflforded me, in the course of my own quiet and unobtrusive ex- cursions in different parts of Europe. During a number of years passed on the Conti- nent, I was in the occasional practice of taking notes of such incidents as seemed most worthy of being recorded. In the latter part of my rambles, these notes assumed the form of a regular journal, wherein, without entering into very minute details, either with regard to the appearance of the country, or the manners of its inhabitants, I en- deavoured to collect and convey the impressions made on my mind, during a residence of a few months in Italy. It was, of course, impossible, while traversing a land so interesting, both from the noble remains of antiquity, and the faultless masterpieces of art which it possesses, to refrain from an occasional enthusiastic expression of admiration ; but in the fol- lowing pages I have avoided any tedious speculative opinions upon men and morals, learned antiquarian researches, or nice critiques on works of art. On the other hand, I hope to have escaped the conta- gious influence, jaundiced opinions, and narrow- minded prejudices, of those who attempt to regu- late the public taste, by disseminating their own biassed impresbions; whiie professing to convey SWISS dtlig]':nx'E. IT descriptions of the arts, scenery, and society, of that classic land, the recollections and associations connected with which, one would naturally sup- pose, ought to inspire the mind with more liberal opinions and elevated sentiments. On the ^th of September 1827, I left Geneva in the Diligence ; but owing to a mistake, com- menced my journey rather awkwardly. Instead of taking the direct conveyance through the Cha- blais, by which I would have arrived several hours sooner at St Maurice, I had the pleasure of being pa- raded all round the lake by way of Lausanne (where I had been very often before), with the additional an- noyance of changing coaches there and at Vevay. Any trifling inconvenience of this sort may be productive of a momentary unpleasant feeling; but fortunately, in as far as regards myself, it is never of long duration. The two coaches met at St Maurice early the next morning, where I had am- ple time to view the fine bridge across the Rhone, as well as the Abbey and its pyramidical spire, whilst the many preparations required for trans- ferring passengers and their trunks from one ve- hicle to the other were going on, under the super- intendance of a dilatory Swiss conductor. In Eng- land, public coaches are for the conveyance of the mail and passengers ; but abroad, the latter are considered as nothing more than bales of merchan- dise, the unshapely mass being loaded as heavily as the cupidity of the proprietors deem expedient, without the slightest regard for the travellers ; who, being looked upon as merely a secondary object, must submit to the arbitrary regulations imposed a2 FKLLOW-TIIAVELLERS THE VALAIS. upon them. A man in France and Switzerland is thus subordinate to the cargo of the unwieldy con- veyance he embarks in, and must run all risks at- tending the commercial enterprise of which he forms so insignificant an item ! We breakfasted at Martigny, situated at the junction of the roads to Italy and to the delightful valley of Chamouni. From thence I pursued my journey in good spirits, having two agreeable fel- low-travellers, with whom I intended to make an excursion to the Italian lakes ; but here we pick- ed up a curate from the German district of the Valais, and a Neapolitan lazarone, whose unsavoury smell, joined to the heat of the day, rendered our situation any thing but enviable. I was therefore by no means sorry when we reached Sion, the chief town of the Canton, where we dined. On resuming our places in the coach, we found it quite full. At any time, I pity six persons cooped up in so small a space as the inside of a Diligence, but more particularly on a scorching day, and when I happen to be one of the sufferers. The country was quite parched up, with the ex- ception of the bed of the river (the Rhone), which we followed as far as Brigg. Some verdure is perceived glistening upon the small islands, formed by the trunks of trees washed down by the cur- rent, and on the high conical hills of sand scattered up and down the valley. But the Valais in gene- ral bears every mark of being a wretched country ; and its inhabitants do not belie the appearance of the soil, which is rocky, calcareous, and barren. I saw several loathsome goitres and cretins, who are more common in this unhealthy district than in INN AT BRIGG. 19 any other part of the Alps. We passed the vil- lage of Leuck, perched oii the side of a mountain, which is surmounted by an old castle. About a league higher up, the renowned baths of that name, much resorted to for rheumatic complaints, are si- tuated. It must have a strange effect to see twen- ty or thirty people of both sexes up to their chins in tepid water, all in the same bath, where they remain for hours laughing and chatting, — for the benefit of their health ! From the description I heard of the cascade of Fourte-magne, and the dif- ficulty of its approach, I had neither time nor inclination to pay it a visit. A few months resi- dence in Switzerland makes one rather fastidious in regard to cascades. After beholding those of the Stanbach and Giesbach, the falls of the Rhine at SchaufFhausen, and of the Aar at Haudeck, nothing inferior to the far-famed Italian waterfal at Terni, can attract even the most enthusiastic admirer of scenery. As we advanced, the road became barren and wild, and daylight had left us before we arrived at Brigg, where we got but sorry accommodation. The inn being quite full, we were compelled to put up with indifferent beds in a house adjoining, two or three sleeping in the same apartment — ra- ther an uncommon occurrence in Switzerland — where, such is the general excellence of the inns, travellers are quite spoiled. Even in the smallest villages, and on the summit of mountains, I have found Swiss inns superior almost to any on the Conti- nent. We got a very good supper, however, and made our arrangements for setting off eaily in the morningj in two divisions ; my friends and I hav- so ALPINE SCENERY. ing liired an open carriage, or cliar a hana, for ourselves and our luggage ; tlius gaining the im- portant object of crossing the Simplon, and at the same time keeping the grand and majestic scenery of the Alps always in view. Long before sunrise we quitted Brigg. As we ascended the mountain, the air became very chill, while a fine clear moonlight afforded ns an opportunity to take a farewell view of the village, with its turrets, surmounted by enormous globes of tin, which had rather a fantastic effect at the foot of the glaciers, in the midst of meadows and forests. We soon entered upon the region of pines, with rocks and precipices on all sides, and enjoyed for some hours the wild and varied scenery of the Alps. The first stupendous edifice that attracted my attention, was the bridge constructed on the Sal- tine, across a frightful abyss, connecting steep precipices covered with dark forests of pine. Here the rising sun having dispersed the clouds of early dawn, displayed itself in its most sublime aspect, its rays lighting up the snowy summits of the Alps; and such was the beauty and wildness of the scenery, combined with one of the most wonder- ful works of modern art, that no pen can possibly do it justice. I question if even the pencil of a Salvator Rosa could give an adequate idea of its sombre magnificence. One cannot hurry over such a road as the Simplon, without recollecting the astonishing works of the Romans, which modem engineers have so completely eclipsed in this mas- terpiece of art. The ascent is so gradual, as to render the drag-chain unnecessary on descending either side. Independently of the rude beauties ALPINE SCENERY. 81 of Nature, with which one is here surrounded, the traveller is lost in admiration of the fine broad well-paved road, its bridges and galleries, or grottos, which are scooped out of the solid rock. Sometimes pursuing tortuous defiles to avoid compact masses of granite, the winding tract is cut on the sides of frightful chasms, where roar- ing cascades thunder from dizzy heights, or hovering on their verge, it is only supported by a wall over the foaming torrents. In Livy's account of the passage of Hannibal and his army across the Alps, although at an easier point, he says fifteen days were required to per- form it. A greater conqueror than Hannibal has enabled us to do the same in as many hours ; and even an army might now march across in a couple of days with ease. As we rode along, we saw from time to time a few isolated houses, inhabited by the inspectors of the roads who furnish refreshments to those standing in need of them. These buildings serve as houses of refuge to travellers ; there are also some deso- late-looking places, used for the purpose of re- ceiving merchandise in bad weather. On the Ita- lian side of the Alps, the country now assumed still greater magnificence : dense forests of firs, which wore the garb of age, darkened the valleys ; splen- did granite bridges thrown across deep dells, where the water appeared bubbling up, varied the scene, and it was frightful to cast a glance down upon the wild caverns and awful torrents, or to listen to the hoarse roar of the waters. At every step we beheld more enchantingly wild and terrific scenery; wither- ed and broken pine-trees, which almost bloclied up 22 ALPINE SCENERY. the way, lay prostrate in all directions ; some torn up by the roots, others broken oflf by the sliock of avalanches, or the frequent recurrence of falling rocks. We walked the greater part of the road up to the village of Simplon, where we halted and remained an hour. I regretted being under the ne- cessity of entering the char again ; but the rapidity of our journey down hill would admit of no other arrangement. So interesting had the scenery be- come, that we hailed even the delay at the cus- tomhouse as a welcome boon ; although, I well know how annoying any detention for the pur- pose of search, is apt to be considered. Following the banks of the Veriola, which, issuing from a glacier, flows through a long ravine strewed with blocks of granite, and rocks of immense height, we were enabled to travel over an admirable and gradually sloping road, which became narrower as we advanced, winding from one side of the river to the other, by magnificent bridges. Occasionally we discerned a foaming mountain-torrent, which dashed itself over inaccessible precipices, variegated with pines and shrubs of every colour. Such are the principal features of the frontiers of Italy ; and how easily might they have been defended by a brave and warlike people ! It may truly be said of the Alps, that the grandest objects are the least capable of being described. Their sublimity is evi- dent ; and all that is added beyond the mere recog- nition of this peculiarity, becomes in a great mea- sure superfluous. All of a sudden the plains of Lombardy appeared. Enraptured as I was with the first view of " la hella Italia^ " one of my fel- low-travellers was more expressive in his admira- DOMo d'ossola. 23 tioii ; for he jumped up in the carriage, took oft' his hat, and gave a loud cheer to hail that land of beauty, of poetry, and of the imagination. We passed the last and finest bridge at Crevola. It is of an amazing height, and connects two banks of an abyss, through which the rapid Veriola pursues its course to the lake. Domo d'Ossola is finely situated in a delightful valley, planted with vines, which are supported on granite pillars several feet high, and entwined in the most graceful festoons. I was amazed at the rich- ness and fertility of this part of the country ; but it is only when the objects are viewed in detail, that the full extent of its treasures are perceptible. Meadows, equal in verdure to the freshness of Eng- lish turf, are intermingled with fields of Indian corn and rice, luxuriantly bounded by vines hang- ing in garlands from trees or props. In Septem- ber, the ripe purple grapes look not a little tempt- ing. The fertile plains of the Milanese are like- wise ornamented with a great variety of fruit-trees, willows and poplars, and intersected by rivers and canals. Beautiful and well-wooded hills appeared on the left, studded with convents, villages, and country houses, all of dazzling whiteness, while the back-ground of the landscape is formed by the Alps soaring away into the heavens ! Before four o'clock in the afternoon, we set off from Domo d'Ossola, exchanging our open carriage for a roomy Italian berline. We were fortunate in travelling at the time of the vintage and villeggia- tura, which, in the opinion of many, is the most brilliant period of the year. We hurried over the excellent roads rapidly enough ; for posting here 24 PLAINS Ot LOMBARDY. is superior to that in France, and almost equal to tliat of England. The night was far advanced when we got to Baveno; and as I had slept very little since leaving Geneva, I was by no means sorry to find our vehicle stop before what appear- ed, and actually proved, a most excellent hotel. Dashing his cloak over the horses' necks, our pos- tillion summoned the waiter, who speedily issued forth accompanied by his master, by whom we were conducted with much urbanity to our apartments. We were at length on the banks of the enchanting Lago Maggiore, and, after some slight refreshments, consisting of fruit and wine, we retired to bed. September 1th, — Impatient to enjoy the first glance of an Italian lake, at an early hour I rose and opened my room- window. From the howl- ing of the wind, and pattering of the rain, I feared that I should be disappointed in my an- xiously expected treat ; and such was indeed the case ; for the prospect was wholly obscured by the clouds, which rolled " come neve in Alpe sen- za vento. " * Many hours elapsed before the rain ceased ; and until the storm passeil over, no boat- man would venture with his frail skiff on the agi- tated waves of the lake. About noon, the tempest was followed by a serene and beautiful day ; tiie sun darted his welcome rays amidst the branches of the lofty elms and cedars which clothed the hills, and soon dispelled the fogs which previously had darkened the pellucid sheet of water. The view from Baveno embraces an immense horizon bounded by high mountains, some of which gra- * Like snow upon the Alps, without wind. BOnROME AN ISLANDS. 2^ duaily sink Into tlie plains of Lombardy, while othei*s display all the majestic wildness of nature, and are lost amid the summits of the more dis- tant snow- clad Alps. Innumerable villages adorn the banks of the lake on all sides, and the con- vents of Madonna del Sesto and della Trinita, of- fer the most lovely points of view. Isola Bella and the other Borromean islands, with their vaulted terraces of orange-trees, cedars and vines, rising in the form of pyramids, seemed to swim on the sur- face of the watei-s. We took a long walk in the charming groves and vineyards, to explore the varied beauties of the surrounding country ; sometimes casting our eyes towards the lake — the view being, in this di- rection, occasionally circumscribed into narrow limits — at other times towards the sloping hills of Arsennio, the scarped rocks of Locarno, the villages of St Fideli, or romantic Magadino. Af- ter an early dinner, we ordered a boat for the purpose of visiting the islands, and in half an hour were landed at Isola Bella, which well merits its name. The gardens are by no means exten- sive, but they are kept in good order, and laid out with considerable taste. My companions objected to their formal regularity, numerous short ave- nues, ^nd the fantastic appearance of some of the trees ( but they could not refuse the tribute of praise to the beauty of the orange and myrtle groves, and the succession of terraces, which are surmounted by a Pegasus. The grounds were so abundantly planted with laurels, cypresses, jas- mine and roses, that the whole atmosphere was perfomed by the odoriferous fragrance which they 26 PAINTERS. shed around. This terrestrial paradise is also em- bellished with fountains, statues, and all that, in such a spot, can please the eye or delight the fancy. The palace of Count Borromeo is spacious, and its numerous apartments are richly and elegantly decorated, and paved with marble. They contain a few statues, chiefly copies from the most cele- brated antiques. A collection of paintings is ex- hibited in a handsome, but badly lighted gallery. It includes several Titians, Luca Giordanos, and Le Bruns ; but none of very great merit for such names. A famous, or rather infamous, Milanese painter, Tempesta, who was banished to this island for the horrible crime of murdering his wife, that he might marry a beloved and beautiful mistress, has left several admirable specimens of his talents in some of the rooms. II Tempesta, or Pietro Molier — which was his real name, behaving acquir- ed the other designation from the excellence of his sea-pieces, and wild terrific storm-scenes — was the fourth painter of celebrity, whom infamous con- duct had compelled to take refuge in sanctuaries. Andrea del Sarto found an asylum in the convent of Santissima Nunziata at Florence, after com mi t- ing murder ; and the Dominican monks employed him very beneficially for themselves in painting frescoes in the cloisters. Michael Angelo Cara- vaggio was guilty of the same crime, and saved his life by obtaining an asylum in the Giustiniani palace at Rome, where he was exclusively en- gaged in decorating the walls for a number of years. Finally, Domenichino took sanctuary at Grotta Ferrata, where he exercised his exquisite LAKE SCENERY. 27 pencil, to escape the punisliment of a murder he had committed. On paying our boatmen, we were amused by the artful manner in which they contrived to charge a party of English ladies triple the sum we had paid for visiting the islands ; an overcharge which they reconciled to their conscience, as they were en- gaged an hour later, and as no regular fare is sti- pulated for when boats are detained after sunset. We voluntarily remonstrated in favour of our fair countrywomen, but in vain. The charming situa- tion of the inn at Baveno, kept by two brothers, one of whom had been long in England, makes it a desirable residence for a few days, to view the beauty of the lake. It would likewise be a con- venient spot to take excursions from to Como and Lugano. The house is clean, the people civil and attentive, and the charges not very exorbitant. Next day we got into an open carriage, and after a pleasant drive of fifteen miles over a level road close to the lake, arrived at the small town of Arona, remarkable as the birth-place of St Charles Borromeo, the philanthropic and be- nevolent Archbishop of Milan. Here we walk- ed up to a neighbouring hill to view the singular collosal statue, the chef-cCceuvre of Zenella and Falcone. It is of copper, and upwards of seventy feeti n height, exclusive of the pedestal. Its con- struction may be said to form an epoch in the art of statuary, as being composed of thin plates rivet- ted together, and fixed by bars of iron to a rude column of masonry which is concealed inside. This seems a very close approximation to the la- minated statues of the earliest ages of Greek art. 28 ST CARLO BORROMEO. The modern statue is accessible by leather a peril- ous ascent internally to the very head, a most mag- nificent bird's eye prospect being enjoyed through the two ocular organs of the good St Charles. The great and good prelate to whose memory this statue has been erected, was possessed of un- bounded wealth and power ; yet he contented himself with the meanest food, and reformed, at the risk of his own life, the manners of his clergy, then plunged in ignorance and luxury. It is not merely as the founder of churches, schools and hospitals, in which Cardinal Borromeo displayed his love of religion and munificence, that I admire him, but for the more active and useful duties of Christian charity which he exercised — such as at- tending the sick when the plague raged at Milan, and giving up the greater part of his income to feed and clothe the poor. These virtues give him a stronger title to canonization than most of the saints that are to be found in the calendar. I have been led to these reflections from the very different view individuals are apt to take of celebrated cha- racters. For instance, one of my companions could find nothing to call forth his admiration on viewing this statue, except the excellence of its workman- ship. " Were it the statue or tomb of such a man as Scotus, I should feel somewhat enthusiastic, " exclaimed my Oxonian friend, who being a Fel- low of that learned Alma Mater, in his veneration for the memory of a man who once taught divinity on the banks of the Isis, had, I found, like Dr Cave, confounded Alfred's master, John Scotus, with Scotus Eregena, a subtle sophist, who incul- cated certain errors in faith and philosophy in his LUVINO. 29 writings : to which I may add the remark made by a tourist, chiefly noted for his tragic and untimely fate, who says, " On an eminence near the road, there is a large statue of a Count Barome, and its nose casts a strong shadow when the sun shines on it. " The town of Arona has little more to recom- mend it than its fine situation, and its port for small craft trading to the opposite coast, and to the more remote parts of the lake, which belong to the Swiss Cantons. We embarked in a steam-boat to view the latter to greater advantage ; but as steam-navigation has not yet attained a very high degree of perfection in Italy, we proceeded at the rate of scarcely five miles an hour. Indeed, I should have been sorry had our speed been in- creased, for one loves to linger in the enjoyment of such beautiful scenery. This splendid mass of waters is of an irregular shape, and nearly 50 miles in length, measured from where the Tecino runs through the fields of Lom- bardy, to its northern extremity at the foot of the Rhetian Alps. We landed at Luvino, a consider- able town on the east bank of the lake, about 30 miles higher up than Arona. This being the first place in the Austrian States which we had set foot in, we were somewhat annoyed by the strict ex- amination of our luggage ; and one of my compa- nions, not having a regular passport, was compel- led to retrace his steps to Baveno. It having been hinted to us that, as Luvino was rather an unfrequented place, we might as well take the precaution of ascertaining the charges at the first inn we encountered, the result showed how b2 30 LUVINO. necessary it was to take such a step ; for we were asked just three times as much as we had paid at Baveno the day before. Having no inclination to submit to so flattering a compliment to our sup- posed wealth as Englishmen, or, in other words, resisting the attempt at imposition, we took up our quarters at a second rate Albergo, where we found every thing excellent in quality, and moderate in price. The innkeeper happened to be absent ; but bis wife, who was a lively little brunette, exerted herself very much to please the " dree Milordi, the only ones she had ever had the honour of entertaining, she hoped they would bring her good luck ; '* and for the sake of her beautiful black eyes, I sincerely hope her expectations may be re- alized. On so great an occasion she summoned a neighbour, who had formerly kept an inn at Como, to her assistance. He was a portly, jolly, good-humoured old fellow, the absolute personi- fication of one of Ostade's Flemish hosts, even to the nightcap on his head ; he only wanted the pipe in his mouth to complete the resemblance. Next morning, on returning from a walk up one of the neighbouring hills, to take a farewell view of the Lago Maggiore and its romantic scenery, we found a char in readiness to convey us to Lugano, which we reached in about three hours, having enjoyed a very pleasant drive through the interesting pic- turesque country which separates the two lakes. Lugano is rather a large place, and the capital of the Swiss Canton of Tecino. Here the lake opens upon the view, with mountains rising, on one side, almost perpendicularly to a height of many thousand feet, while, on the other side, I LUGANO. 31 the country k more fertile : sloping banks, orna- mented with vines, and finely skirted by wood, with several flourishing villages, being seen rising at short distances from one another. I had time to step into the church of the Franciscan Convent, while the good fathers were at vespers, without disturbing their devotions ; and stopped to admire a large and very fine fresco painting, by an artist of the Lombard school, Bernardo Tecino. The ca- thedi*al is only remarkable for its commanding si- tuation, from whence there may be had a superb view of the lake and the sun-ounding country. We had the company of two Irish gentlemen at dinner, whom I had met some time before during an excursion in the Alps, Acquaintances thus hastily formed on the top of the Khigi, the Wes- senstein, or the Grimsel, soon acquire a degree of cordiality unthought of, when preceded by a formal introduction at a London dinner-party. A row on the lake was proposed ; and on our way to the boat, we stopped to listen to the harangue of an Italian quack- doctor, mounted in an elegant ca- leche, drawn by a pair of good horses gaudily caparisoned. The most amusing rogue was the coachman, who acted in the triple capacity of trumpeter, Merry Andrew, and whip ; but I ne- ver saw a more ferocious-looking fellow than the charlatan himself, who was decked out in a dashing hussar uniform, with an enormous pair of black whiskers. He appeared to be quite a Don Giovanni among the ladies, and, as I afterwards learned, had married or eloped with at least a dozen, from as many different places during his travels ; which adventures had procured him the honour of 32 ITALIAN CHARLATAN. banishment from the moral cities of Naples and Venice. This rascally impostor detained us a considei-able time in the square, where we first observed him. In the course of his exhibition, he employed all his logic, and the finest flowers of rhetoric, accompanied by the grimace of a Frenchman, and the gesticulation of an Italian, brandishing a sword, as if scarcely content with one mode of killing and gulling the poor Swit- zers who formed his audience. As we moved off, by way of a clencher I suppose, he bawled af- ter us, " If any one doubts my skill, * che apre la bocca, per Bacco ! ' * and if I don't draw every tooth from his head in ten minutes, my name is not Marco Antonio Sal va- la- vita ! " The sun was just setting as we got into the boat ; the stillness of the scene on the calm waters of the lake ; the precipices that rose on the oppo- site side ; and the glimmering of the lights of Lu- gano, as we approached it on our return, would have formed a magnificent night-scene for the study of a painter. It is difficult to conceive the splendour of an Italian evening at this season of the year, when the atmosphere is somewhat pu- rified by gently refreshing showers, after the op- pressive summer-heat. The moon shines forth with a soft silvery lustre, and the celestial canopy of etherial blue appears studded with stars so pure and clear, that every object around is as easily distinguished as l)y a northern twilight. The following morning, before sunrise, we were ready to depart; and having again engaged the ♦ Let him open liis mouth— by Bacchus ! LAKE OF COMb. 3S boBt wc had the previous evening, a slight breeze aided the exertions of the rowers, and we reached the village of Porlezza in a few hours, enjoying the sail up the lake of Lugano exceedingly. This lake is much less known than any of the other lakes of Lombardy, as it lies out of the direct road, and consequently is not so much resorted to by stran- gers ; but although the absence of fine villas, which are so numerously scattered along the banks of the Lake of Como, renders Lugano somewhat infe- rior in point of beauty, as it is in extent, still it will always remain in my recollection, as one of the most romantic and lovely places I ever vi- sited. Porlezza being in the Austrian States, we were again compelled to undergo a strict search — one of the penalties which, in lieu of turnpikes, En- glish travellers pay for the privileges many thou- sands of them annually enjoy in Italy. I do not believe that one individual amongst them has ever been detected in smuggling; why, then, subject them all to vexatious and disagreeable detention, for the sake of going through a mere form ? Having procured a vehicle to carry our port" manteaus, we walked across the country to Me- naggio, as the distance was only four miles, and the day did not then promise to be so intensely hot as it afterwards proved. The first view of the Lago di Como is enchantingly grand. The Alps, the glaciers of the Grisons and the Valtelina, co- vered with eternal snow, succeed each other like weaves of the sea, lowering gradually in height, and sloping beautifully towards the waters whose banks spai-kle with flourishing towns and villas ; amidst a country rich in oiange- groves, laurels, 34 VILLA SOMMARIVA. olive-trees, and gracefully festooned vines — objects rendered still more delightful by the pure air and unchanging sky of Italy. From Menaggio we em- barked for Cadenobbia, admiring the lovely pros- pect as we glided downwards ; and very soon af- ter found ourselves seated in the balcony of one of the best inns in Lombardy, where we propos- ed stopping for two days. Soon after our arrival we went to the Villa Sommariva, which is within a few hundred yards of the inn, and were not a little amused to find ourselves ushered into its gallery of sculpture by two young damsels, daugh- ters of the custodia, who, with much apparent modesty, called our attention to the Adonis, Mars, and Venus of Canova, and many other statues, not appearing to notice the smile on our countenances, excited by the strange impropriety of female cice- rones describing the beauty of Heathen deities,' and pointing out nudities to every casual visitor. A- mongst the works of Canova in this gallery is the famous statue of Palamedes, much fractured by fal- ling, and nearly crushing to death the amiable ar- tist as he had just put the finishing touches to the marble. Some of the best modem pieces of sculpture in the villa are parts of a frieze by Thor- waldsen, illustrating the triumphs of Alexander. They were not then taken out of the cases in which they had lately arrived from Rome, though sufficiently exposed to gratify our curiosity ; for the top of each case was removed, so as to ren- der the hassi relievi visible. This celebrated chef-d ceuvre of the Danish sculptor had em- ployed him many years, having been ordered by Napoleon for the purpose of ornamenting the VILLA MELZI. 35 government palace at Milan, or the Quirinal, when fitting it up for the young King of Rome, or pro- bably a copy for each. However, the father of the present Count Soramariva, when Napoleon's exile had disappointed the artist, seized the fa- vourable opportunity, and purchased it for half a million of francs, to grace his elegant modern man- sion, a building in the finest style of Italian ar- chitecture. The Villa Sommariva also contains a spacious gallery of paintings, chiefly of the Flo- rentine and Flemish schools, as well as a few by able French artists of the present day. Having crossed the lake, we entered the Villa Melzi, the splendid residence of the Duke of Lodi, formerly Vice-President of the Italian Republic, under Buonaparte. Pictures and statues again occupied us for some hours in that delightful place ; and perhaps none of them pleased me more than the beautiful group of Cupid and Psyche by Cano- va. Our host Giovanni Mello had furnished us with the boat which he keeps for his customers, and quite a sumptuous dinner awaited our return. The bill of fare included very fine trout from the lake, and some other delicacies more in the English than the Italian style, which was easily account- ed for, from the circumstance of Giovanni hav- ing lived some years in England in the capacity of an itinerant barometer-seller. He seems to know the taste of our countrymen so well, and studies it so successfully, that his albergo, in point of comfort, is quite equal to a first-rate En- glish hotel ; while the prospect from its balconies embraces one of the finest districts in Upper Italy. So mild indeed is the climate, here, that i. 36 AUSTRIAN ARCHDITKE. orange- trees thrive in the open air, aloes are seen in flower, and the American guava remains un- sheltered all the year round. Being anxious to obtain another glance of the Count Sommariva's collection of statues and pic- tures, on the morning of our departure I again visited the gallery ; hut having descried the steam- boat approaching in which we intended to embark, I was compelled to take an abrupt leave of this charming Villa. The day was most propitious for an excursion round the lake ; but the heat was so powerful, even at this advanced season of the year, that we found an awning over the quarter-deck in- dispensable. I was surprised to see so many gayly dressed ladies and gentlemen on board, till I found that, besides the attraction of fine scenery, they had that day an additional inducement, as the Arch- duke Regnier, Viceroy of the Lombardo- Venetian kingdom, had hired one of the steam-boats to make an excursion to Damazzo. Our captain had pro- vided a couple of swivels for this occasion ; and a few hours after, when the Imperial party ap- peared, the national flag was displayed, and a royal salute fired in honour of them. But ahhough we passed quite close to each other, our ill-bestowed mark of attention was totally unnoticed. With true Austrian hauteur, the Archduke, an inane- looking personage, stood gazing upon us ; and I was glad to perceive that none of the party in our boat cheered, or even took off their hats to him. We stopped for a short time at some of the towns and villages along the banks of the lake, for the purpose of landing and taking in passengers, and were also detained nearly two hours at Grave- coMo. 3T dona, tlie highest point we reached While they were carrying on board some bales of silk on freight for Como, I seized the opportunity to land ; and beheld the singular dress of the women of the place, who, in compliance with a vow made by their an- cestors, wear the habits of Capuchin friars, and are called frati. * From this spot I looked over the wide lake around the amphitheatre of hills, which were covered with wood, and studded with villages and white cottages, beautifully reflected on the water. The stillness of the lovely and peaceful scene, added to the beauty of nature, car- ried for the moment my imagination far beyond the dwellings of men, who, possessed of every earthly charm, are so often wretched. Largior hie eampos, aether et lumine vestit Purporeo y solemque suum, sua sidera norunt. f The upper part of the lake is wild and romantic ; forests of pine are seen in the distance, overtopped by lofty mountains, between whose rocky chains are ravines or narrow valleys. But as we approach- ed Como, the banks became more fertile ; on each side were seen numerous villas and country-houses belonging to the Milanese nobility, with fine gar- dens, fountains, grottoes, vines, and orange-groves, which the residents prefer infinitely to the grand and bold scenery on the northern extremity of the lake. They assuredly cannot lay claim to the ap- pellation of enthusiastic lovers of the sublime beau- ties of nature. • Monks. \ Here deeper azure clothes with purple h'ght The fields ; their native sun and stars they own. C 38 VILLA PLINIANA. At the well-known Villa Pliniana, there is an interesting spring, which increases and diminishes alternately during several hours every day, but is never quite dry. This phenomenon is described by Pliny the younger, and an Italian translation of the epistle is engraved on a marble tablet, placed near this remarkable fountain. It is not pretended, how- ever, that either of the Plinys ever inhabited any villa on the site of that which now bears a name, which seems to have been bestowed upon it in honour of the celebrated naturalist. The town of Como is more attractive from the beauty of its situation, than even from its antiquity ; — though its fine old marble cathedral, splendid palaces and villas, had sufficient charms to detain me a day in their vicinity. A vehicle called a velocifere, built in imitation of an English stage-coach, and carrying about twenty outside passengers, sets oiF every afternoon for Mi- lan ; and my friend and myself with much difficulty succeeded in wedging ourselves inside, a long with half a dozen Italians. It was past midnight when we arrived at Milan, where, even at that late hour, the delights of another customhouse search a- waited us ; — being the third ordeal of the kind which we had undergone, in about as many days, since we entered the Imperial territoriee. CHAPTER 11. MILAN. September 13^A. — The city of Milan may be cod" sidered the capital of the north of Italy, from its situation, population, and wealth. It is now the seat of the government of the Lombardo- Venetian kingdom, and the residence of an Austrian arch- duke, who rules over the Italian provinces in the name of the Emperor. His retinue is but a faint shadow of the gay court of Eugene Beauharnais who, without brilliant talents, was regarded by the Milanese as an honourable and upright ruler. Eugene's beneficial and conciliatory government rendered the French more popular in Lombardy, than in any other of their conquered states. He is even yet remembered with affection, and doubly regret- ted by the inhabitants of the north of Italy, from a comparison with their present uncongenial Ger- man masters, whose cold harsh manners accord so badly with those of their lively subjects. I viewed the town generally the day after my arrival. The ancient part had been rebuilt after its destruction by the Emperor Frederic Barba- rossa, (in the 1 2th century, at the expense of the citizens of Lombardy), who entered into a league for the accomplishment of that purpose. Few ves- 40 MILAN. tiges of the Romans can be expected to exist, after the burning and razing of the city, the cruel effects of Barbarossa's revenge. What may now be termed the old part of Milan exhibits neither regularity nor uniformity. It is built in the heavy imperfect style of architecture invented and adopted during the middle ages, and is bounded on all sides by the naviglio or canals, by means of which tlie com- merce of Lombardy is carried on with Switzer- land and Germany. The modern city extends itself beyond the banks of the canal, and is form- ed on an elegant and splendid plan. It is sur- rounded by boulevards planted with trees, used as a public walk. In architectural decorations it rivals the finest quarters of Paris, whilst in com- modiousness and regularity, the principal streets are not inferior to those of London. It has even some peculiar advantages in point of pavement ; for in the middle of the streets, that the motion of carriages may be as gentle as possible, there are two rows of large flags alongst which the wheels are made to move. The few squares in Milan are ir- regular and unornamented ; with one exception, which is refreshed by a beautiful fountain formed of red granite, with Syrens of Carrara marble. It is well supplied with water by means of an hy- draulic pump, which brings it from a subterranean stream that runs through the city. The square in front of the cathedral is very fine, but badly proportioned, its length being too great for its breadth. It only shines by a comparison with the other religious edifices, which are the ugliest in Italy. Coffee-houses and shops under arcades, in the style of the Palais Royale, are the greates^t nim'aJ attractions of the city. THE CATHEDRAL. 41 To enjoy the best view of the environs, I went to the cathedral (il Duomo), which stands nearly in the centre of Milan. On my first visit, thoug^h even a passing glance intimated it to be one of the most singular elForts of Gothic architecture, I did not remain long enough to give myself time to admire either the beauty of its exterior or the wonders of its interior. The most remarkable ob- ject is the spire, which is seen at many miles dis- tance, surmounting an immense edifice of white marble, cut into a variety of fantastic ornaments. It is too heavy in its general effect, even though it were divested of its innumerable buttresses, columns, and obelisks, and ravished of the sta- tues of every saint in the calendar, which are perched on the top of each projecting point. The dazzling whiteness of those objects would soon be destroyed in such a climate as ours ; but in the clear atmosphere of Italy, their appearance is pre- served unimpaired. This stupendous work has been raised at such long intervals during a period of 400 years, that it now presents a jumble of all the different orders. It is scarcely completed yet, owing to frequent interruptions from the want of funds and other causes. The contrast which it presents between the Grecian and Gothic, Roman and modern styles, forms quite a solecism in archi- tecture ; the more to be regretted, from the labour and expense incurred in attempting to rear a build- ing, which can only be compared to a forest of marble, instead of being an elegant church, such as half the money properly employed would have built. On ascending to the gallery that runs round the spire^ I enjoyed from the terrace a c 2 42 ENVIRONS OF MILAN. most beautiful panoramic view bounded by Mont Blanc at 120 miles distance, of the highest part of the chain of Alps on the north, (that barrier cover- ed with eternal snow), which extends all the way from Savoy to the Rliaetian Alps. In the fertile plain below, Piedmont, Lombardy, and the Ve- netian States, spread out like a continuous garden, intersected with rivers and canals, and adorned by towns and hamlets. Towards the south, the Apennines, which divide the Tuscan States mid- way between the Mediterranean and Adriatic, ap- peared like a faint blue line, almost lost to the sight, owing to a heavy vapour, which, from the heat of the day, rested upon the horizon. The immediate neighbourhood of Milan is a fertile and highly cultivated country. All traces of France are lost, when we observe the large rice fields, divided into compartments for the greater facility of irrigation, and which are either flat, or i« a succession of terraces, if on an inclined plain. Looking from so great a height over the coun- try, these regular mirrors, covered with sheets of water, above which rows of green plants can only be discerned, have a most beautiful and pleasing effect. For a hundred miles round in every direc- tion, a rich and well- watered country strikes the eye, improving in cultivation the nearer it ap- proaches to the capital, where ample advantage has been taken of great local facilities, and su- perior knowledge — irrigation being better under- stood in this province than any part of Europe. I went one evening with a musical amateur to iIkj theatre of La Scala, reckoned one of the finest in Eu- rope, and which, in point of architecture and size, is OPERA OF LA SCALA. 43 ^niy inferior to that of San Carlo at Naples. The form of this theatre renders it very favourable for spectators, being widest towards the stage. I was quite struck with the splendour of the house. The boxes are elegantly furnished and fitted up with silk curtains, each having a small wardrobe attached, with an open corridor between, — an arrangement which is very useful, as at Milan and all parts of Italy, it is the custom for ladies to receive visits in their opera boxes, where, however, they seldom appear until rather a late hour. The entertainment consisted of an opera seria, called " L' ultima giornata di Pompee ;" * but during its performance neither ap- plause nor censure was heard — all was silence and attention. The scenery was splendid, — indeed equal to that of the Grand Opera of Paris, though scarcely so varied. The orchestra was more numerous and better sekcted than any either in the French or in the English capital, music with Italians be- ing, as every body knows, quite an object of national interest. Barbaja, the Empressario of Milan, is al- so director of the operas at Vienna and Naples, a union of offices which enables him to send with greater facility, to each theatre in its turn, the best singers and dancers in Europe. It is evident that theatrical concerns in Italy form a most essential part of the social system. They are regulated by a code of laws, enforced by the manager, to which the greatest importance is attached by the aristo- cracy as well as by the people. The prima donna of Milan, Lalande, is scarcely inferior to Pasta or Sou- tag, indeed many prefer her to either ; and Tam- * The last day of Pompey, 4-4 AUSTRIAN OFFICERS. bourini is a bass singer of great clearness and com- pass as well as a respectable actor. Tbere is, besides a good Seminario for music and dancing, wbere none but females possessed of tbe finest figures and voices are admitted as pupils ; and wbat is very re- markable, but, as I was assured, a well known fact, tbese Syrens and Sylpbs are generally of good moral cbaracter, preserving tbeir virtue amidst tbe tbou- sand temptations to wbicb tbey are bourly expos- ed in the vicious atmospbere that surrounds tbem ! Credat Judaeus Apella ! At most Italian operas on the Continent, nearly tbe same entertainment is given every evening, tbere being only two pieces " in scena, " which are performed alternately in tbe course of an entire season. During my stay at Milan I went very often to La Scala, and al- ways saw tbe same opera and ballet; but, as an ex- cuse for repeating it so frequently, it was pro- nounced " Un Opera die fa furore,'' * I remarked to a gentleman who happened one evening to sit next me, near the orchestra, that I was surprised to observe so few Austrian of- ficers at tbe theatre. " Why, " said he " tbere are many ; I am one myself ; but we never appear in public, or even in the streets, in our uniform, except when on duty." He then pointed out several in the different boxes, and told me their names and rank. I think this shows good policy, as it makes tbe people less shy of their masters than tbey would be were the distinction more marked and apparent ; but even in this case, it cannot be expected timt they should easily associate with the Tedeschi. \ * An opera exciting enthusiasm, | Germans. MUSEUM OF THE FINE ARTS. 45 At the Brera, or Museum of fine arts, I passed a few hours viewing many excellent pictures by the most eminent masters. It was then open as an exhibition of the works of modern artists of the Lombard school, and the different prize pictures pieces of sculpture and designs, were distinguished by crowns placed conspicuously over them, being the first reward of the artists — fame. This large and elegant building, formerly a Jesuit's college, is now converted into an Academia, or Scuola delle belle arti. Its library is divided into several rooms, containing upwards of 180,000 volumes of valua- ble manuscripts and rare books, some of which are of the earliest era of typography. The most curi- aus MS. I have seen is Petraich's Virgil upon vel- lum, with the notes of that celebrated Italian poet. The first leaf is painted by Simon, representing aJl the subjects of the ^Eneid. It is now in the collec- tion of the Ambrosian library, which is worthy of a visit, were it possessed of no other attractive object. There are however many. The modern display at La Brera did not interest me very much, there was such a glare of high colouring, and but few good pictures. I know nothing more tiresome than staring at similar exhibitions, though they always attract crowds in Paris, London, or Brussels. Where works of genuine excellence can be found, I look upon the time as lost which is spent in gazing on a mass of portraiture, and on the inferior efforts of living artists. At the same time it must be allowed, that such institutions are found- ed on an excellent principle, and no doubt prove highly beneficial to the arts. I returned again and again, to gaze upon the many admirable pic- 46 COFFEE-HOUSES. ture8 by Titian, Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, Leon- ardo da Vinci, Paulo Veronese, and Rubens. But tbere was only one Rapbael, and that a poor speci- men of his transcendent abilities, — the well-known Marriage of the Virgin, which is quite in Perugino's antiquated formal style, and evidently one of the earliest works of Ins incomparable scholar's pure and graceful pencil. The Sculpture- room was by no means richly supplied, except in casts. It con- tained few or no antiques, and not many modem statues. Of the latter, Canova's Vestal, and Thor- waldsen's group of the Graces, are considered the best. The charges at the Croce di Malta were four francs for dinner, including wine ; and from two to four francs for a bedroom, varying according to its size. I seldom patronised breakfast, the Cafes being so much more convenient and agreeable. From an early hour in the morning, these are re- sorted to by ladies and gentlemen, for the purpose of enjoying their Cafe latte, or pannera, which is decidedly the best cream-coifee I ever tasted — the valleys of the Alps, and the neighbouring mea- dows, affording excellent pasturage for cattle — a fact which accounts for the abundance and superior quality of the milk, cheese, and butter in this part of the country. Indeed, Nature lias been most bountiful to Lombardy, except in the article of wine, which, though plentiful enough, is of a sweet and unpleasant quality. The best is brought from the vineyards on the banks of the lakes, and near Brianza, but it is far inferior to the wine of Asti, and other Piedmontese growths. At the Gran Bretagna, M'here I dined sonietimed, 1 I OBSERVATIONS ON TRAVELLING. 4T Madame Gaeta, the mistress of the house, pre>- sided at the table d'hote ; her husband was pre- sent, but seemed quite a Jerry Sneak. Upwards of twenty people generally sat down to an excel- lent dinner; after which, a few bottles of superior wine were handed round, country wine being pre- viously allowed at discretion. At our own hotel, I was agreeably surprised to find amongst the company Major R , a Russian officer, whom I had known some years before in Switzerland. He was going further south, and pro- posed that we should proceed together to Venice and Florence. After I had spent a week or ten days at Milan, I assented to this proposal, chiefly because one of my previous fellow-travellers was obliged to return direct to England, and the other intended going to Turin, in order to visit the Vau- dois of the Protestant valleys of Piedmont. I have travelled on the Continent, I believe, by every possible mode of conveyance — on mule-back, in hot, dusty Spain, and by excellent posting over good, though most uninteresting roads, in France — but my last, and not my least delightful excursion, was a solitary pedestrian tour among the Swiss moun- tains, which, after all, is the preferable mode of travelling. When one is perfectly independent of conveyances, by leaving every thing to chance his movements are quite free and unrestrained — and having no one's wishes to consult, he can indulge his own fancy, which, if it happens to be whimsi- cal, might be apt to interfere with the plans and pleasures of others. As the Austrian officer I met at la Scala told me there would bo a review of the troops of the 48 REtTEW OF AUSTRIAN TltOO?S. garrison, I went very early one morning to see the Austrians manoeuvre. The spot selected for the occasion was a large field between what was formerly the citadel and the arch of the Simplon. There were upwards of 3000 men on the ground, including a regiment of Yagers, one of Hulans, and a park of artillery, chiefly Hungarians, all in mag- nificent condition. They successively ranged them- selves in order of battle, manoeuvred and defiled with unparalleled precision for the space of a cou- ple of hours. I was surprised that there were so few spectators, and not a single equipage. Such a sight in the environs of London or Paris, in delight- ful weather, would have attracted thousands, par- ticularly of the fair sex. But the truth is, that the Austrians contrive to excite on every occasion the hatred of the people. A Milanese, speaking to me of them, quoted the verse which alludes to the Im- perial eagle : ** Aquila grifagna Che piu divorar due becchi porta. *' * The white uniform of these foreign mercenaries is seen everywhere, sentinels are placed at every twen- ty paces, patrols continually parade the quiet streets of Milan, and cannon are planted in all the squares. The people know that they are slaves ; but al- though their chains gall them to the quick, they have neither the moral nor the physical force to break their fetters, and throw off the yoke. There are some remarkable objects near the ci- tadel, or Piazza d'Arme, which owe their existence * Thou GrifRn-eagle Which, the more to devour, bearest two beaks. ARCH OF THE SIMPLON— -CIRCUS. 49 to Napoleon, whose government carried many na- tional institutions to a degree of splendour that ne- ver failed to dazzle the multitude ; but the finest work undertaken by his order, and one of the no- blest designs in modern art, is the Triumphal Arch of the Simplon, so named as terminating the truly " regal way " leading over the Alps by that pass. This elegant erection consists of a centre, and two flank arches, composed entirely of a blueish marble from Lombardy, and in the same good taste, was to have been exclusively executed by native artijts. The original bassi relieviy all of which were sculptur- ed and several even put up, have been displaced however, and either destroyed or conveyed away, with the exception of one or two allegorical figures, as they recorded French victories in Italy, and con- sequently Austrian defeats. It is now adorned by pieces of sculpture better adapted to please the po- litical feelings of the Emperor Francis. Upon this splendid monument, at the period of our visit, a great number of people were employed, who talk- ed of completing it in a couple of years. If this were accomplished, it would form a most mag- nificent and imposing entrance to the capital of Lombardy. The Amphitheatre, in the style of a Roman cir- cus, was also erected by the French. It is upwards of 800 feet in length, and of an oval form. It was intended to amuse the people, by the display of public games; and was so constructed as to serve occasionally for a naumachia, being susceptible of inundation. It has ten rows of seats and gal- leries, which are calculated to contain about one third of the population of the city. Prince Eu» D 50 CITADEL — FRESCO OF gene ordered it to be sometimes opened gratis on great occasions, when the people were treated with exhibitions of fireworks and games. The citadel was formerly the castle or palace of the Dukes of Milan, the Visconti and the Sforza, names so celebrated in the annals of Lombardy. It has very recently been razed to the ground, with the exception of one wing, now converted into barracks for soldiers. Being no longer fortified, or capable of defence, its destruction is no trifling advantage to the peaceable citizens; for they enjoy an ex- cellent promenade, and the troops a parade ground, on the site of the ancient fortress. Desirous of seeing Leonardo da Vinci's re- markable fresco of the Last Supper, my fellow-tra- veller and myself were conducted to the refectory of the suppressed Dominican convent of St Maria della Gracia, which had been converted into a stable by the French soldiers, who perhaps at- tempted to hasten the ravages of time — the marks of three pistol-shots being visible on the fres- co — fortunately, however, without injuring any of the figures of this celebrated masterpiece. It has also been altered by restorers, and has suft'ered extremely from the nature of the mixtures used in the colouring of the original design ; but even un- der all these disadvantages, it still produces the effect I anticipated from the very correct idea con- veyed by Morghen's excellent engraving, although the artist was compelled, in order to arrive at the truth, to refer to the original in two copies which were painted not long after Leonardo's time. After deli- berately sitting upwards of an hour to view this performance, to the astonishment of the cubtodia, THE LAST SUPPER — ANECDOTE. 51 when be opened tlie door to let us out, we were in no hurry to leave the spot. On perceiving this, he very coolly locked it again, thinking we were not inclined to stir at all, and then walked off. Nothing now remains of da Vinci's work, but the original design and grouping, which are admirable, and above all commendation ; but the colours are so much faded, that some of the figures are quite imperceptible, even with the retouching of Mazzi and other restorers. The countenance of Judas is the most horrible that can be imagined. Leonardo, it is said, was so long before he could bring himself to complete his portion, that the Superior of the convent reproached him with the delay. The artist excused himself by alleging, that he had not been able to discover a model hideous enough to convey his idea of the traitor ; but if his Reverence was in so great a hurry, and thought proper to sit, he would substitute his likeness for Judas. So flat- tering an offer was no doubt declined by the im- patient Dominican, and more time granted. I have read this anecdote in some book of travels, but I forget by whom ; indeed, I doubt the story altogether. Not only has this picture impressed me with the beauties of L. da Vinci's pencil, but it illustrates the artist's character. It is unfinished, having been abandoned before the principal head was completed. It exhausted the artist himself, by a vain chase after models for the accessories ; whereas, as has been remarked, " had he been able to conceive the centre, the radii must of course have followed. " In his rage for experiment, and in pursuit of beauty, he is said not unfrequently to have found deformity; and new mixtures of colours have dissolved and 52 LEONARDO DA VINCI. injured a work which has been retouched with ma- nifest detriment to its harmony of colour and ef- fect. Da Vinci was probably one of the most ver- satile geniuses that ever existed. Celebrated as the greatest painter of the age in which he lived, his capacity was not limited to one art alone ; he also excelled as an architect, a sculptor, and a musi- cian. He even penetrated the arcana of science, and distinguished himself as an anatomist and chemist. But his inequality of fancy and want of persever- ance neutralized the effect of those splendid ta- lents. He sometimes mistook the real aim of art, and misapplied a splendour of intellect which eclips- ed all former excellence, uniting in himself all the elements which constitute the essence of genius. * We next visited the Zecca or mint, which in all its parts is admirable, whether as regai'ds the ex- cellence of its machinery, or the regularity and pre- cision of its manifold airangements. The establish- • Tlie author has here adopted the common, but cer- tainly erroneous statement, that this celebrated Fresco was never finished. In England the opinion has become uni- versally current, upon the classical authority of Roscoe, who has also thence deduced a very unfair estimate of Leo- nardo da Vinci's powers. On both points Mr Roscoe has been most ably refuted by more than one Italian writer. Those who wish to know the real state of the question are referred to Cicognaro Storia del Scuh Tom. III. and paiw ticularly to a most valuable but unfortunately rare work of Cardinal Boromeo on this very fresco, written in the 16th century, and generally known by the name of the <* Aureo LibrettOy'^ where it is proved beyond the possibili- ty of a doubt, that the work was not only finished, but finished to the satisfaction of Da Vinci, and the admiration of the age. The English reader will find much inform». tion on this subject in Mcmea's <' Life of Canova," as also in the 39th volume of Constables's Miscellany. !£& of C. M. LA ZFXCA— POLICE. 53 ment, however, is on too large a scale for the exigencies of the limited coinage of the country. As a proof of this, I may mention, that there were not then one-fifth of the ordinary number of work- men employed. It possesses a very fine collection of medals, and, as is usual with visitors, we had one struck to judge of the quality of the machinery. The employes were remarkably civil, and anxi- ous to show every part of the process of coining, and explain it to our satisfaction. I particularly remarked the mill for amalgamating the metals, which, as well as the coining presses, is set in motion by water. It is generally understood that the Austrian po- lice is vexatious ; but I can only say that I did not find it so. On calling at the office to present myself, I was merely asked my address, and how long I proposed staying ; and on applying for my passport, it was returned duly signed, to enable me to proceed to Venice. One feels pleasure in being able to record any favourable circumstance of the Austro-Milanese. As far as regards lamps and street-cleaning, the police is also well conducted ; but the irksome system of political espionage is, I understand, exercised with a vigilance, which causes the hatred existing between the respective coun- tries to take a deeper root. The natives are the suiFerers. I was highly pleased with the Teatro Re, where I went one evening to see one of Goldoni's comedies. The Milanese accent, like that of all north Italy, is bad ; but on the stage we only hear " la lingua Toscana, " though not always in " bocca Romana, " The company performing at D 2 54 TEATRO RE — PUPPETS. this tlieatre was the Duke of Modena*8, and unless when required to imitate provincialisms, their Italian was pure ; however, my knowledge of it was not so acute as to detect slight faults. An- other evening I passed a couple of hours most a- greeably at the theatre of Gerolamo, where puppets of about three feet high are made to represent men and women in the most amusing manner. Many living actors whom I have witnessed would suffer from a comparison with these wooden per- formers. So complete is the delusion, from the ad- mirable manner in which they are managed, that one would abolutely imagine the dialogues to pro- ceed from the mouths of the puppets. A comedy, or rather farce was performed, called " II Vapore di Lago Maggiore, " a piece full of humour, which afforded the greatest display of the roguish qua- lities of Gianduja, a Piedmontese valet, who by his playful wit atoned for the want of interest in the plot. This was followed by a ballet with the same actors, whose aplomb and moelleux were nearly equal to those of a Vestris or a Biggotieri. One can form no idea of an Italian Polcinella, until he beholds these acting puppets. Although I had often heard of its excellence, this exhibition even exceeded my expectations. Gerolamo's thea- tre is quite a fashionable resort, notwithstanding the trifling price of admittance ; and I was told that the late manager left a fortune of 300,000 livi'es, an amazing sum in that country, particularly to be gained by keeping a puppet-show. Milan contains many fine churches ; but my stay being rather limited, I was obliged to content my- self with visiting only thosO of most celebrity for CHURCHES — STATUES. 55 pictorial or architectural beauty. However, I do not mean to inflict on the reader a detailed account of them. Tlie bassi relievi in the front of the ca- thedral are executed in a very superior manner, and represent events related in sacred history. The entrance to the church is through five grand doors, only lately completed. The centre one is much the finest, and is supported in the in- terior by two granite columns of immense size ; but a considerable part of the building is still un- finished. The marble pavement, (said to be su- perior to that of St Peter's at Rome), the choir and the pulpit, merit particular attention. The grand display, however, is to be found in the subterranean chapel, which contains the relics of San Carlo, and exceeds in value any thing I ever beheld. There are statues of this Saint and of St Ambrose (both of whom were bishops of Milan) in solid silver, larger than life. Rock crystal, gold, and a profusion of precious stones, embellish their shrines, which however are certainly calculated more to ex- cite the cupidity than the devotion of the spectators. I confess I was more pleased with a marble statue of St Bartholomew by A grate, behind the choir, than with any of the more valuable objects in the cathedral. It displays the muscular system so per- fectly, the skin being as it were stript off, that an anatomist might lecture upon it with almost as much effect as on a human subject. This is no small degree of praise to the sculptor, who is com- pared to Praxiteles in the inscription, " Non me Praxiteles, sed Marcus finxit Agrate." * The view from the summit of the church, surrounded by its innumerable statues of saints and martyrs, I have * " Not Praxiteles — but Marcus Agrate made me. " 56 THE CATHEDRAL. already spoken of ; but really, to ascend 500 stops to the dome is no trifling matter. I of course did not attempt such a feat at every visit I paid to the lower part. This cathedral may serve as a model for boldness of design, but it has been spoiled by the extravagance and singularity of its execu- tion. A profusion of marble has been hewed down and cut into objects, which vanish in- dividually into insignificance, though, taken as forming a whole, one must regard with amaze- ment the number and beauty of the pillars, niches and statues. The roof and cupola are still more admirable ; for the insertion of every block of which the former is composed, astonishes, by the degree of talent, and the variety in the art of vaulting which it displays. But the edifice itself is encumbered with much unnecessary ornament, and by many accessories, which conceal and im- pair the general effect of each other. A rage for sculpture pervades every part of it, the tops of pillars, buttresses, pinnacles, and lateral spires, l)eing surmounted with statues to the number of se- veral thousands — circumstances which detract from their beauty and apparent height. The design of the original construction must have been Gothic ; but it has not been adhered to, although it is still the predominant style of its architecture. Four cen- turies, and some millions of money, have been con- sumed in erecting a confused mass, where Gothic pil- lars, pointed arcades and fretwork, are confounded with Roman arches, a Greek entablature, quad- rangular doors and windows, while the wliole is crowned by an Egyptian pyramid, with an image of the Virgin on its apex ! HOSPITALS — BASILICA AMBROSIANA. 5T One of tke most useful buildings in Milan is tlie Spedale Maggiore, or grand hospital ; an admi- rable institution, where the sick of every descrip- tion are received. It also serves the purposes of a medical school, to which there is attached a number of professors, some of whom have attain- ed a high degree of eminence in one of the noblest pursuits of science. Their lectures are well at- tended by pupils, who resort from all parts of Italy, to an establishment where they have the best op- portunities of studying the construction and the complicated machinery of the human frame. The building is a long and elegant parallelogram, with a spacious court in the middle, surrounded by por- ticoes, under which, once a year, are exposed the portraits of its numerous benefactors. Few sights are more gratifying than this tribute of Gratitude to Philanthropy. The Basilica Ambrosiana, one of the four churches built by St Ambrose, is the most ancient in Milan, and probably the only one that has any pretensions to antiquity, which is its principal re- commendation ; unless the figure of a brass ser- pent (erroneously supposed to be that of the de- sert), brought from Constantinople in the tenth century, and several other relics of equally doubt- ful origin, can be considered as justifying such pre- tensions. Neither its interior nor exterior renders it by any means conspicuous. Although this church never was the cathedral, still, as the burial- place of St Ambrose, and as the depository of his relics, it enjoyed many privileges, and peculiar veneration. When the Emperors of the West held their court at Milan, it was in this Basilica 58 CORINTHIAN COLUMNS— SAN CELSO. that they received the iron crown of Italy. The name of St Ambrose is remarkable in the annals of Catholicism, as the spiritual guide who had the merit of converting St Augustine, and as the un- daunted defender of the orthodox church. The rite instituted by him is still observed in this dio- cess, and differs but slightly from the other Catho- lic forms, in regard to baptism by immersion, and the observance of Lent. Notwithstanding the wars of Goths and Lombards, and the burning of the city, there have yet escaped from destruction sixteen fluted Corinthian columns of beautiful proportions, all in one file, supposed to liave formed part of the baths of the Emperor Maximian Herculeus, who resided at Milan. They have occasioned much disputation among antiqua- ries and critics ; but their origin does not appear to be yet sufficiently ascertained ; though, from the fine taste displayed in their ornaments, and espe- cially from their symmetry, they may safely be re- ferred to an era not long posterior to the reign of Nero. By a late propping up, they may still trans- mit to future ages the most precious monument in Lombardy of the splendour of the Roman Empire. No dedication is so common in Italy for churches, as to the Madonna. In that of San Celso, there are two Sibyls which merit particular attention, and some frescos of great merit, with which Ap- piani, a native artist, has ornamented the high al- tar and chapels. There are also two statues of Adam and Eve at the entrance, the latter of which, not unfrequently, has been reckoned equal to some of the most perfect antique models of female beauty. A palace near the Porta Orientale, though now THE CORSO —PUBLIC WALKS. 59 the residence of the Austrian governor, still re- tains the name of its late Imperial master ; and it is worthy of remark, as a proof that political ani- mosity can he forgotten, even by Germans, in their friendship for the arts, that an admirable picture by the Chevalier Appiani, representing the Apo- theosis of Napoleon, still graces the hall of the throne in this palace. The drive called the Corso, which extends from the Cathedral to one of the handsomest gates along the palace-gardens, is frequented as a promenade on Sundays, when the fashionables display all their finery. I saw some carriages which might have been built in Long Acre, and much better horses than are generally sported in the boasted long champ of Paris ; for the Milanese nobility pique themselves on imitating English manners, — indeed many of their equipages, for splendour, would not disgrace Hyde- Park itself. Most of the young men of fortune visit London, if they can obtain passports ; not al- ways a very easy matter, as it often occurs, when they apply to the Minister of Police, that he asks their motive for going to England ; and when they naturally reply, for amusement, the pleasure of tra- velling, and seeing the world. " Oh, if that is all," he replies " why don't you go to Vienna, which is in- finitely superior in every other attraction ? Besides, it would be pleasing to the Emperor to see his Italian nobles at court." Thus, many a silly fel- low has been coaxed, cajoled, and even compelled to act diametrically opposite to his own wishes and inclinations, in order to meet the views of " the powers that be. ' England is a bad country for an Austrian subject to visit. It would seem as if 60 MILANESE LADIES — ITALIAN MANNERS. it exported nothing but blood-horses and liberal ideas. The public gardens are always crowded, on Sundays and holidays, with well-dressed pedes- trians and handsome women, who resort to them from every part of Italy, They mix in the crowd with the citizens* wives and fair daughters, or with the proud aristocracy of the land; walking up and down, or sitting under the shade of trees, lis- tening to the music of an excellent band, belong- ing to one of the regiments of the garrison, which generally plays all the afternoon. There is at Milan an air of bustle, wealth and luxury, which sheds a lustre every where ; a happy mixture of the French and Italian character ; and the scene is infinitely more attractive than the sameness, dul- ness, and dust of the eternal Hyde Park of a Lon- don morning — ^. e. from five to seven in the after- noon. One of the most beautiful women who ap- peared in the promenade, afterwards dined at our table d'hote. She had been recently married to a Piedmontese nobleman, and the couple were just arrived from Turin, having taken up their abode at the Croce di Malta. I had several opportuni- ties of admiring her frank easy manners, free from ' prudery or affectation. Apparently unconscious of her own attraction, she assume(l no dignified airs. The ladies whom I saw at la Scala and in public dunng my stay, are in general fair, have good eyes, and large features, but are somewhat inclined to embonpoint, wearing a great profusion of hair, real or false, divided into ringlets. There were amongst them certainly many very fine wo- men. I believe there is still much dissipation at THE OPERA — THE CLIMATE. 61 Milan. A thirst for pleasure seems to prevail, and many facilities are afforded for its indulgence. The great night for the opera is Sunday, when it is always more fashionably attended than at any other time. Catholics consider, that if they attend church in the forenoon, hear mass, and refrain from servile work the remainder of the day, they may, in the evening, enjoy any species of innocent amusement or recreation. The immense plain around Milan is highly cul- tivated, but rather monotonous, and partly inun- dated to raise crops of rice, the principal produc- tion of Lombardy. From this circumstance, and the great summer heat, it is at times unhealthy — the atmosphere being heavy, misty, and impregnated with a noxious effluvia, which drives the noble and wealthy citizens to their country villas on the banks of the lakes. Strangers are impressed with the most favourable idea of the wealth and taste of the Milanese on approaching their capital, every thing being on so grand a scale, with broad roads, and fine avenues of trees ; and the city itself sup- ports the impression. It presents many handsome public edifices, either built or adorned by the late government, so that if money was extorted in op- pressive taxes and contributions, part of it was spent beneficially in employing the people. When about to set off for Rome, how much I regretted not having brought with me some good books of reference ; but those of greatest utility are prohibited : even Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, Sismondi's works, and Lady Morgan s Italy. Voluminous works take up so much room, that when one has no carriage of his I 62 TOURISTS AND THEIR WORKS. own, he is obliged, to avoid being encumbered with luggage, to content himself with as few books as possible. Those on topography can always be found on the spot, and if in the language of the country, so much the better, for with the aid of a dictionary a double purpose is answered. Eustace's Classical Tour (not as a guide-book, but for gene- ral information and entertainment) is certainly one of the best and most instructive works I have read on Italy, — very superior indeed to the common- place travels and tours which are published, and the nonsense which is believed in England. A clerical friend of mine told me that Eustace was out of fashion. I laughed at the absurdity of his idea of fashion, extended to so ridiculous a pitch, preferring perhaps some neat octavo just issued from the press by a graduate of his own university, to the standard and admirable work of a learned and amiable author, because they differed on certain abstract points of theology. Eustace had, how- ever, the gratification to see his Tour pass through half a dozen editions before his death. CHAPTER III. AUSTRIAN STATES. September 20^^. — In the north of Italy travel- ling is excellent. Relays of post-horses may be had at every stage ; and with a caniage of one's own, the ground is got over as expeditiously as in any other part of the Continent. In the Austrian dominions there are sedia, or one-horse chaises on two wheels, with seats for a single person, to be hired at a moderate rate from one town to ano- ther. The diligence and couriers are entirely go- vernment concerns. The coaches of the former are strongly built, and tolerably commodious, though somewhat heavy. They carry six inside passengers, with three in the cabriolet, and are drawn by four post-horses. A fixed fare is exacted, as well as the gratification to the conductor and postillions, all of which expenses generally amount to about 35 centimes, or 3|d. a mile. Even the price of dinner and beds on the road is regulated by the proper authorities, and inserted on tickets delivered to travellers when they take their places, with a view to prevent imposition. I observed we were escorted by gens d'armes, who were relieved 64 LODI — NAPOLEON— FRANCIS I. at every stage until daylight. Very few instances of highway robhery now occur ; but as occasional at- tacks of banditti have been made in some parts of Italy, particularly in the south, such precautions are considered necessary to protect the lives and property of travellers against depredations. We left Milan at midnight, and passed through Lodi at a very early hour in the morning ; but did not cross the long wooden bridge over the Adda, so celebrated from the brilliant and suc- cessful attack Buonaparte made upon it, during Ids first campaigns in Italy : we passed, how- ever, almost under the tree where he rallied his grenadiers, and at their head forced the Austrian intrenchments on the opposite bank. The next place we came to was PiiTighettoni, remarkable for having been the prison of Francis the First, who was for some time detained in its strong fort- ress. The warlike Julius the Second said that the electors of Germany and the cardinals of Rome had committed a great mistake, for they ought to have chosen the pacific Maximilian Pope, and himself Emperor. The succeeding Emperor, how- ever, was endowed with greater military and po- litical talents, for he twice defeated his rival Fran- cis ; first in his election to the empire, and a- gain at Pavia, where, by the bad advice of Boni- vet, the French monarch divided his army in the presence of his enemy, and received a lesson which has served as a caution to every general since. The chivalrous Francis lost every thing " hors rhonneur ; " and during his detention as a prisoner in Spain, even solicited assistance from the Turks, to whom he despatched Frangipaui as an emissary, APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 65 requesting Soliman the Magnificent to espouse his cause. The Sultan s answer is still preserved in the Royal Library at Paris. There was little to please the eye in this part of the country ; no de- lightful valleys, no mountain scenery, no cascades or stupendous crags, were to be seen. The whole road, during that day's journey, lay between straight rows of trees, over a continued fertile plain, wa- tered by abundant rivers and canals, presenting, on every side, rich meadows or highly cultivated fields. The towns and villages we passed through had every appearance of wealth and prosperity, being inhabited by a hardy, industrious population. It was then the season for the villeggiatura, when fa- milies repair to their country-houses, where they remain during the vintage, or until the cold drives them back to the cities. The peasantry were busily employed at the vintage, which had just begun ; and as we approached Cremona, we met all along the road carts drawn by dove- coloured oxen, and other vehicles, loaded with the purple treasures of Bacchus. As the afternoon advanced, the scene became more interesting, and afforded us an op- portunity of witnessing the whole rural population, busily employed in their happiest pursuits, reap- ing the reward of their labours. A fastidious per- son should not follow the vintagers farther, for I think the operations of the wine-press are quite disgusting. I have seen the peasants in Portugal take off their shoes, and dance about amongst the grapes. They then collect all the skins, and ex- tract the juice from them by means of the press, which is generally surrounded by a litter of pigs impatient for their share, the husks ; but, fortunate- e2 66 THE VINTAGE — CREMONA — MANTUA. ly for wine- drinkers, the process of fermentation carries off all impurities. In Italy the practice is similar, but without the four-footed assistants ; and in Lombardy especially, an uncommon degree of order and cleanliness is observable in the rural menage. From these remarks the Scriptural reader will perceive both the universality of the custom, as also the simplicity and force of the allusion to " treading the wine-press, " which so often occui*s in the writings of the Jewish prophets. At Cremona we stopped but a short time. This place is better known for the excellence of its violins and other musical instruments, which are seen and /^earc?all over Europe, than for its school of painting; for although few of the second-rate towns in Italy are more distinguished in the annals of the art, neither Vasari nor Lanzi has mentioned its former celebrity. But Count B. Vidoni has lately done justice to its fame. However, the aitists of Cre- mona have not been altogether neglected by for- mer writers ; for Petrarch speaks of Simon Martini, who painted several portraits of Laura, and was the intimate friend of her lover. But the Cremona school was not founded till long after by the Cam- pi, of whom it justly boasts ; and Vidoni gives a long, and what is considered a very coiTect account of the different masters it has produced, displaying much taste in the analysis of their works. When we reached Mantua, we got a valet de place to point out the principal edifices, such as the Palace of Te — a strange name for the finest building in the city, bestowed upon it because it is built in the shape of the letter T. This pa- lace, as well as several of the churches, were built L HALL OF THE GIANTS — ANECDOTE. 67 from the designs of Giulio Romano, who resided some years at the court of the Duke of Mantua, and embellished many of the edifices with splendid frescos and pictures. The great attraction which this remarkable building now presents, is the Sal di Giganti, or " Hall of the Giants," a large quad> rangular apaitment, round the entire walls of which, in a species of panorama, is the famous fresco of the artist just mentioned, representing the fall of the Titans. Whether, as regards its present state of excellent preservation, or the in- trinsic merit of the composition and grandeur of the style, this is one of the most interesting works of modem art. Some of these " Sons of Earth " are seen falling headlong into the sea, with ghastly wounds ; in another place they are cnished, and writhing in fearful agony, beneath enormous rocky masses ; while others are beheld as if hurled " sheer o'er the crystal battlements " by the thunder of Omnipotence. All this sublimity of thought, how- ever, is much impaired by the smallness of the space ; for, extensive as the hall is, the eye is al- lowed to approach too near, and to measure too closely, the merely corporeal energies of the work. It is a fine trait in Buonaparte's character, that when besieging Mantua, then defended by the Austrians under old Wurmser, he turned his cannon from this, though a favourable point of attack, lest, by the destruction of the place, this picture might be for ever lost to the world. Andrea Mantegna also enriched many of the churches and palaces of Man- tua with the productions of his admirable pencil. I bad merely time to step into the old ducal palace, —a heavy Gothic building, not particularly at- 68 VIRGIL — VERONA — VITRUVIUS. tractive, to admire its principal apartments. Mantua is the native place of Virgil. A statue has been erected to his memory in one of the halls of the Palace of Justice ; and the French, who liked a little ostentation, caused a column and bust, in honour of the Mantuan bard, to be placed in the Mincio, a public walk. The situation of this for- tified town is very remarkable. Surrounded by water and a flat country, it can only be approached by bridges. There are two lakes of considerable extent, with reedy shores, in the direction of Ve- rona and Cremona, which, with the large tract of marshy ground around the city, render it very un- healthy. Partial draining, and the improvement of the land of late years, has had a beneficial ef- fect on the air ; but the place is still very subject to intermittent fevers. My companion was so anxious to view the Ca- thedral, that we had it opened for our inspection by torch-light, 1 could see well enough, even under so great a disadvantage, to admire its beautiful fluted Corinthian columns, supporting a second range of Composite ones, which separate the nave from the aisles. There are many defects in this magnificent structure, I understand : not in the original design, which does honour to the archi- tectural talents of Giulio Romano, but in the awk- ward attempts to repair the ravages of time, by overloading the wall with ornaments in extremely bad taste ; but fortunately the lateness of the hour, and the imperfect light by which I saw it, prevent- ed me from perceiving them. Verona, which we next visited, claims the ho- nour of being the birthplace of Vitruvius, probably TUB MARQUIS MAFFEI. 09 the greatest architect the world has produced. The arch of Gavi is attributed to him, hut it presents a very imperfect specimen of his abilities ; although, I believe, it is the only one of which his native place can boast. There are two modern gates, the Porta Nuova and Porta di Palio, of rustic ma- sonry, with Doric columns, both by the architect San Micheli. The most celebrated native of Ve- rona, in modern times, is the Marquis Scipio MaiFei, who lived to a very advanced age. He is best known as the author of Merope, a subject drama- tized by Euripides, and also by two of the greatest French and Italian poets of the day, Voltaire and Alfieri. MafFei was the first who succeeded in introducing the Tragic muse into Italy, and in com- posing a tragedy without love, or any of the ro- mantic taste of the French drama ; exciting and supporting the interest of the plot solely by the danger to which a mother exposes a beloved som As a proof of the popularity of this admirable piece, the unprecedented number of sixty editions were printed and sold within a few years after its first performance at Modena. Maffei also ranks high as an historian ; not of that vague and arid class, limited to the record of facts and dates, si- milar to a dictionary, which loads the memory with- out improving the mind. He traces the genius and faults of men, the effects of their passions on the manners and ignorance of the age, and the benefits or misfortunes they caused to the world, by following the progress of arts and sciences, as well as of arms and literature. History, treated in this manner, becomes precious to posterity, and af- fords both pleasure and instruction. As a proof 70 ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE. of the estimation in which this learned man was held in his native city, a statue was raised in ho- nour of him about a century ago, with a plain in- scription " To the Marquis Scipio Maffei dur- ing his lifetime ; " which Voltaire said was equi- valent to the compliment Montpellier paid to the Grand Monarque, by erecting a statue to " Louis 14ze apres sa mort. " * The renowned amphitheatre is a magnificent monument of the Roman empire in the days of its greatest power, and justly considered the chief or- nament of Verona. It is of an oval form, constructed of large square blocks of marble, the extreme length of the ellipsis being 500 feet. Three tier of Doric columns ornament different stories, which are rus- ticated arcades. The exterior has suffered much ; but in the interior no marks of decay are now per- ceptible, owing to its having been restored about two centuries ago. It still retains forty rows of sloping marble seats for spectators. The local au- thorities have suflPered a small wooden theatre to be erected in the arena, for the performance of co- medies in the daytime. This erection rather spoils the sublime effect of an ancient edifice, when oc- cupied by a motley audience applauding the mise- rable wit of Arlecchino and a set of strolling players, whose mummeries are any thing but in keeping with the noble scene by which they are sur- rounded. To gratify the curiosity of English travellers, the pseudo-sarcophagus of Juliet is pointed out to them in a delightful garden, the site of a con- • <* To Louis XIV. after his death." SARCOPHAGUS OF JULIET. 71 vent, said to have been " the tomb of all the Ca- pulets." This city, Verona, was, at all events, the scene of Romeo and Juliet, as well as of another admirable drama of our immortal bard. It must, therefore, have an ideal charm for every English- man, to whom the name of Verona sounds some- what familiar. Independently of these associa- tions, it has the attraction of a beautiful situation, on the river Adige, which separates the two towns Ve- rona and Veronetta. The latter place is ornamented with several fine churches, of an architecture that does not disgrace the birthplace of Vitruvius him- self. One of them, St George, is remarkable for its fine cupola, the work of Sansovino : it also con- tains some very good pictures by Paulo Veronese and Tintoretto. I spent a few hours in the cathe- dral, which is adorned by a number of Titians, Bellinos, and other paintings by celebrated masters of the Venetian school, much better worth look- ing at than the building itself, which is in the Go- thic style, and not remarkable either for beauty or elegance. Being the head- quarters of the Austrian troops in Italy, a very strong garrison is maintained in Verona. A better point could not be selected as a central depot, as it is equidistant from Milan and Venice, and near the high road to Vienna, which is always kept in the best state of repair, to en- able the Emperor to reinforce his Italian army at the shortest notice, by either of the two great passes of the Alps situated in his own dominions. The Corso, and a few other streets of Verona, are handsome. The Parade, or Piazza d'Arme, is now an elegant public walk, of which the amphitheatre forms the centre ; and which is 72 FEMALE FELLOW-TRAVELLER. crowded in the evening with ladies and gentle- men, thousands of whom are attracted after sunset to enjoy the cool pleasant air, and to hear some beautiful pieces of martial music. There are several Cafes in the Piazza d'Arme, with awnings spread in front of them, under which cof- fee, ices, and other refreshments, are served to the numerous groups from the promenade. I took much pleasure in viewing the scene until a late hour. When the clash of the military band ceased, the company soon after dispersed, and I was left almost alone, contemplating, by the reflec- tion of a few glimmering lamps, the massive dark walls of that vast fabric, so often stained with the blood of gladiators, and many other victims of the crimes and ferocity of the Imperial Romans. Some hours before daylight next morning, I was summoned to take my place in the diligence. I generally prefer the cabriolet, where the con- ductor sits, that I may have a better view of the country ; and I therefore lost no time in securing it with my fellow-traveller. There were six per- sons to accommodate inside ; and an extra vehicle was required for the other passengers, one of whom, a Milanese lady, was desired to take her place in it, which she refused to do, when she saw that it was an open gig exposed to the cold morning air. The conduttore remonstrated, urging, that as she was the last arrived, the coach being full, she would be under the necessity to submit. She peeped in, and seeing it contained only men, exclaimed, with a most pathetic air, " Como e possibile, tanti huo- mini lasciare una Donna sola viaggiare in un leg- no scoperto /" " How is it possible for so many VICENZA — PALLADIO. 73 men to allow a solitary female to travel in an open vehicle ! " Although slie was neither young nor handsome, I felt my gallantry so forcibly ap- pealed to by the stress she laid on the words una Donna sola, that I could not refrain from offering to resign my seat ; which was not, however, ac- cepted of, for a close carriage was soon after pro- cured for her. This surmounted all difficulties, and we continued our route towards Vicenza. When the sun rose from the Adriatic, we disco- vered on the left the long chain of Alps, which separates Germany from Italy, and enjoyed a fine drive over a fertile plain, through beautifully fes- tooned vines on every side, supported on mulberry trees. A few hours brought us to the Tesina, which we crossed, over a handsome stone bridge ; and soon after we passed through the splendid mo- dern gate at the entrance of Vicenza, which has quite the appearance of a triumphal arch. As we only intended staying one day, a cicerone was immediately engaged to accompany us to the most remarkable works of Palladio, who was the father of that style of architecture introduced in- to England by Inigo Jones. This eminent Ita- lian artist has studied Vitruvius's works in the true spirit of their author ; and to him the art is indebt- ed for its purest style, many specimens of which in Vicenza, his native place, evince his well-earned fame. Most of the principal public and private edifices of the city are either the workmanship of this celebrated practical antiquary, or built from I his designs. The first we went to was his own house, which presents an elegant and simple mo- del of architectural skill, though under the dis- 74? OLYMPIC THEATRE. advantage of being concealed in a narrow con- fined street. The Olympic theatre astonished and pleased me most. Its permanent, fixed scenes, represent three streets, or majestic avenues, diverging from the stage, according to the most perfect rules of per- spective. Palaces, magnificent dwellings, and tri- umphal arches are erected in alto relievo, short- ening and diminishing perspectively. The pro- scenium is consequently much diminished in size. The columns are of the Corinthian order, the inter-columniations being filled up with niches and statues. The form is semi -elliptical, with several rows of seats, rising as in amphitheatres ; but, from the narrowness of the situation, it is not calculated to contain many spectators. This splendid specimen of architecture is encompass- ed all round with a frame- work of stairs ; and at the summit of the receding galleries, there is a conidor. Above is a light and well-propor- tioned attic, the pannels of which are ornament- ed with bassi relievi. Although it was built not more than 250 years ago, one imagines he sees a Roman theatre, as Palladio followed the exact proportions recommended by Vitruvius, who borrowed from the Greeks his plans for the construction of ancient theatres. The Ma- donna del Monte is some miles distant from the town ; and unfortunately my time did not permit me to view its famous portico, a series of arched arcades, extending for more than a mile up the whole ascent of the hill, under which many de- votees may be seen performing their pilgrimage upon their knees. Neither could I visit the Ro- THE BRENTA — VENICE. 75 tunda (li Capra, also a work of Palladio, which has been imitated by Lord Burlington in the Duke of Devonshire's quadrefrontal villa at Cheswick, the best specimen in England of the Palladian style of domestic architecture. We went from Vicenza to Padua next day, the drive along the banks of the river being ex- tremely interesting. The country had a gay and animated appearance ; populous villages, coun- try seats and Palladian villas, with fine gardens, diversify the scene on both sides of the Brenta, the resort of many noble Venetians, who wish at that happy season of the year to enjoy the pleasure of velleggiatura. It was quite dark ere we reached Mestra, where we embarked in a large gondola to cross the Laguna. We then entered the great canal of Venice ; and I was quite enchanted with the appearance of the " Queen of the Adriatic," anticipating the pleasure of a more perfect view in the morning, for star and lamp-light are ill cal- culated to enable one to judge of its wonders. The faint glimmering from the windows of its marble palaces, served more to bewilder my senses, than to enlighten them, at the hour of midnight. Early the following morning, as I sat in one of the balconies of the hotel, the calm waters of the great canal of Venice rippling against the bridge of the Rialto immediately before me, I thought of the Dandoli, the Foscari, the Giusti- niani, the Morosini, and other great and power- ful men, who once lived in those old massive palaces, reclining in the lap of luxury, surround- ed by Asiatic splendour, and armed with power. But now when I turn my eyes towards those 76 DECAY or VENICE — PIAZZA DI S. MARCO. buildings, they are deserted by their lords. The successors of that ambitious aristocracy, who built mansions suited to the fierce grandeur of their free and elevated minds, are now degraded, and these palaces are the abodes of strangers or menials, who seem lost in the magnificence of such splendid halls. Venice, the city from whose story Shakspeare chose the subject of some of his plays, is no longer brilli- ant and flourishing. It bears evident traces of pre- mature decay. The life is gone ; its once gay in- habitants are dwindled into the abject subjects of a foreign and detested prince. The empty gloomy- looking gondolas, the half-deserted quays, bridges and streets, of the once famed " City of the Wa- ters, " all indicate that slavery, want, and oppres- sion, have usurped the place of freedom, riches, and power. After a short walk through narrow crooked lanes, I directed my steps towards the Piazza cH San Marco, and felt the contrast most forcibly on ■entering a magnificent square surrounded on three sides by handsome buildings designed by the ar- chitect Sansovino, all of which have galleries of open arcades on the ground -floor. This square m terminated by the metropolitan church of San Mar- co, surmounted by its five cupolas — over the rich mosaic front of which, the celebrated bronze horses, the supposed workmanship of Lysippus, which successively adorned Constantinople, Venice and Paris, have again resumed their station. This well-known edifice forms so prominent an object in many pictures of the Venetian school, that it was perfectly familiar to me. The Piazzetta, or smaller square, is on ooe side overlooked by the BRIDGE OF SIGHS — MARINO FALIERI. 77 ducal palace, and is also ornamented with two beautiful granite columns of immense height, one supporting the winged lion of St Mark, the patron of Venice, and the other a statue of St Theodore, for whose memory the Republic had a singular veneration — he having been titular patron of the church of St Mark, before the body of the Evan- gelist was translated to it. A fertile field for reflection is offered when contemplating the existing state of this once power- ful Republic, which for centuries gave laws to many kingdoms, and was mistress of the com- merce of the Mediterranean, the Levant, and even of India. We see it now reduced to a second- rate town, and with all its territories, merely a province of the House of Austria. With diffi- culty can the imagination conceive the once dreaded effect of that receptacle for secret denunciation ; but the sight of the " Bridge of Sighs, " its neigh- bouring dungeon and towers, serve to recal to the mind the arbitrary and despotic Council of Ten, which overawed the Republic and its Doge. The scene of Marino Falieri's punishment was pointed out to me. It reminds one of the power of the aristocracy, and their summary mode of exer- cising it. Count Daru, in his History of Venice, has unravelled the dark and fearful labyrinth of that oligarchical tyranny with laborious attention ; and so infamous were the institutes of the Council, that assassination and poisoning were enjoined by one of its ordinances. I must say that the Ducal palace, not as a building, but from the associations connected with its interesting history, gratified me more than any F 2 T8 DUCAL PALACE — ITS PAINTINGS. roysd or imperial palace I had hitherto seen. It is built in tliat massive semi-Gothic and Arabesque style, with pointed arches, its walls chequered with red and white marble, symmetrically disposed, and having its gigantic stairs approached by eight dif- ferent gates. Of the many edifices which Venice contains remarkable for their architecture, or for the splendour of their interior, none is superior to this in the magnificence of its halls and galleries, which are covered with paintings by Paulo Veronese, Titian, Bassano, and other eminent masters, illus- trating the history and great exploits of the com- monwealth. One of the most remarkable pictures m the Senate-hall, represents the great naval vic- tory gained by the Venetians over the Emperor Otho ; and another the interview between his fa- ther Frederic Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III*, who is in the act of setting his foot on the Em- peror*s neck, in the porcli of St Mark's churcli. Barbarossa, after his signal defeat by the V^ene- tians, aided by their Milanese and Sicilian allies, certainly came to Venice, and abjured the schism in favour of Octavian, whose pretensions to the chair of St Peter he had previously supported. So far, the subject may be a very fit one for a pic- ture ; but the whole of the pretended humiliation (though by many, such as my cicerone, implicitly believed) is a notorious forgery, as inconsistent with reason as with the singulai* meekness of Alex- ander, who not only treated his rivals with the greatest humanity and forbearance, but even en- tertained Calistus, one of the number, at his owa table. The silence of all contemporary writers, and the positive contradiction given to it by judi- caURCH OF ST MARK — NOBILITY. 79 cious historians, demonstrate the absurdity of the fable ; and a picture, painted four hundred years afterwards, amounts to no proof of the fact. Poets and painters are equally allowed the liberty of fiction and emblematical representations ; conse- quently their authority in such matters is seldom correct, or at best entitled to much weight. The metropolitan church of San Marco, the old- est in Venice, was built in the tenth centuiy, and enriched with gold, marble and mosaic, the plun- der of the East. The body of St Mark, brought from Alexandria, was also deposited in it. This stnicture forms a striking contrast to the pure and elegant Grecian style of architecture. Instead of the an- cient graceful simplicity of that school, it is heavy and overloaded with ornament. The five gilded domes are too low, and the effect of the interior is in a great measure lost, owing to the imperfect light which is admitted into it ; so that notwith- standing the richness of its gilding, its splendid mosaics and other curiosities, the whole edifice is in bad taste ; for, in its construction, the Venetians did not limit themselves to copy with fidelity the best parts of the church of St Sophia. From the few opportunities a short stay afforded me, I cannot be supposed to know much of the Venetians as a people ; but, judging from the little which I saw of them, as well as from their history, I could not help feeling deeply interested in every thing connected with so celebrated a city. The nobility is divided into four classes ; and it is not a little surprising, that, until within a very few years, lineal descendants of all the twelve tribunes of the first class, who elected the first Doge in the 8th 80 VENETIAN WOMEN — MANNERS. > century, were in existence. Even tlie second class, those wliose names are found in the golden hook of the aristocracy estahlished in 1289, is, with very few exceptions, more ancient than our oldest Eng- lish nohility ; and yet this is one of the newest States of Italy. Such is the comparative antiqui- ty of different countries, or rather families. The descendants of these patricians still hear an excellent character for honour, mildness, and integrity. The ladies are handsome, and renowned for their wit and amiahility. It is impossible not to admire their tall graceful figures, their dark eyes, and fine full open foreheads upon which their rich black ringlets repose. Even amongst the females of the lower orders, many are lovely and elegant in face and figure. With protruded eager lips, and ex- pressive mouths, they have little of the usual hue of the Italian climate on their cheeks. There is also something extremely pleasing in the sound of the Venetian dialect, contrasted with the harsher ac- cents of the Milanese. The language of the women, in particular, is quick, vehement, and expressive. Venice is considered a corrupt city. If it is so, its depravity is certainly distinct from that of nor- thern capitals, a difference attributable partly to cli- mate. The Venetians have many of the vices of luxury and civilization ; but from what I could perceive or discover, I do not think there is so much vice, dis- sipation and licentiousness, as is generally supposed ; nor are these qualities accompanied by that disgust- ing sensuality, which indicates a total want of feel- ing, decorum, and good-breeding. During the car- nival, there are six or seven theatres open. Balls, masquerades and other amusements, are still frequen- CONVERSAZIONE. 81 tod ; but ftom the great change of fortune among the higher and middle classes of society, there is much sombre gayety, and many heavy hearts amidst this outward show of mirth and frivolity ; but still the delightful city of Venice possesses many ad- vantages for strangers. Living is cheap, and the climate temperate, and even delightful, ex- cept during the autumn, when the air is reckon- ed insalubrious. Amusement and instruction are easily procured. It is moreover adorned with not a few splendid monuments of the arts, though im- poverished by foreign rapacity, and an uncongenial goveniment, which casts an air of gloom where gayety and prosperity reigned before. At the conversazione^ I found the society plea- sant and easy. When introduced to the lady (rf the mansion, I was uniformly treated with that polite at- tention which distinguishes Italians in their inter- course with foreigners ; and I acknowledge, that the general urbanity of mannei*s I have observed to pre- vail throughout Italy, has contributed greatly to dis- pel the unfavourable impressions caused by the fre- quent misrepresentations made by most travellers in regard to them. I now moralize less on the vicious propensities attributed to Italians than I did be- fore ; because I have had opportunities of ascertain- ing the gross prejudices on which our ideas of their immorality are often founded. We went one day to the Scuola delle belle Arti, or Academy of the Fine Arts, held in one of the buildings formerly occupied by the con- fraternity Delia Carita. This establishment con- sists of several large saloons filled with pictures, forming a valuable national gallery, which is en- 82 SCUOLA DELLE BELLE ARTT. riched by some of the best works of the eminent masters of the Venetian school, particularly of the great Titian, who justly ranks at its head. Several of Titian's pictures are here, including his celebrated chef-d'oeuvre, the Assumption of the Vir- gin, restored to brilliancy from a state of decay. This, with sixty others of the same collection, have returned from their visit to Paris, — a proof of their excellence, — for the French deserved the credit of being connoisseurs in the selections they made. None but gems of art were admitted among their plunder. The artists of the Venetian school seem to have penetrated into the very essence of painting, applying themselves ardently to the contemplation of na- ture, and seizing all the fascinations of colouring, which had been so much disregarded by their pre- decessors ; and Titian, whose portraits are always marked by dignity of character and elegance of cos- tume, and whose productions are so exquisite for brilliancy of tints, has justly obtained the title of chief colourist, notwithstanding the well-founded claims of Rubens and Vandyke. The other dis- tinguished artists of the Venetian school are Bel- lino, Titian's master, the two Palmas, Vittorio Carracci, Bassano Tintoretto, Paulo Veronese, Ge* orgiano, and Sebastiano del Piorobo, wFiose perfor- mances are all imbued with the same peculiar char- acteristics; such as, perfect distribution of light and shade, truth of colour, correct eye for nature, and boldness of touch. I lingered long among the works which adorn this noble gallery, graced by such great names ; and afterwards saw a statue of the muse Polyhym- VENETIAN SCHOOL OF PAINTING. 83 nia, with some beautiful pieces of sculpture by Ca- nova, and a good many casts of the finest antiques, placed in other rooms. The Scuoli, or Halls of the Fraternities, six in number, were all suppressed about thirty years ago, when the French Republic superseded the Venetian. That which now serves as a public gallery, and the Scuola di San Rocca, are the only ones which have been kept in repair. The latter is remarkable for the beauty of its building, and the fine collection of paintings it contains, chiefly by Tintoretto, who had all the boldness of pencil and variety of design of Michael Angelo, com- bined with the fine colouring of Titian. It is to be regretted, that so many of the pictures of this most expeditious and rapid painter were left in an unfinished state. Several of them have also suf- fered from the ravages of time. The Piazza di San Marco is one of the most enchanting places of public resort that can be ima- gined. Under its colonnade, on three sides of the square, are shops of all descriptions, and cof- fee-houses frequented by Greeks, Jews, and Chris- tians. The former are generally smoking in the true Oriental style, and the latter enjoying their coffee or ices. Finely dressed ladies, escorted by cavaliere serventi, are seated under awnings at all hours of the evening, listening to the de- lightful music of the harp or the guitar, as accom- paniments to the fine melodious voices of itinerant musicians, who take their stations before the most fashionable cafes. We remarked no splendid equi- pages (for carriages are unknown in Venice) ; but parties aie seen constantly landing from gondolas, 84 GONDOLIERS THE OPERA — ROSSnflr or gliding past. Perhaps the gondoliers are singing the verses of Tasso in pai-ts ; or, if the night is dark, black skiffs may be observed moving along on the surface of the water in every direction, with their solitary lamps, forming altogether a scene so novel and striking, and so very unlike our Northern manners, that the effect it produces cannot easily be obliterated from the mind. The principal theatre, the Tenice, was not open; and the second-rate ones, San Marco and San Benedetto, are not much resorted to by the dilli- tanti. I went occasionally to the opera, and once saw Tancredi performed. Its delightful music is just what I conceive sweet sounds should be ; not merely a scientific art, but a pleasing recreation adapted for the amusement of every human being possessed of ears or feelings. Justice, however, was not done to the charming opera; for the per- formers were all mediocre, except the prima donna, and she did not sing that delightful arietta of Rossini, " Tu c/ie accudi, " with so great a degree of taste, purity and science, as I have often heard it in London. It is related by the Venetians of Rossini, that when composing a bravura for the entrance of Tancredi, he did not at first succeed in pleasing the prima donna who was to sing it. Almost in despair, he returned home, with little appetite for dinner, his mind so preoccupied. Having seated him- self at the piano, and, whilst the rice was cooking, (which is invariably the first dish in the north of Italy), the idea of the divine aria, " Z>i tantipaU piti '* suddenly struck him, and by the time the rice was served up, lie had composed probably the finest GOLDONl'S COMEDIES. 85 bravura be ever produced. From this circum- stance it was called L'aria di rizzi, " " The air of the rice, " as it is customary for the cook to in- timate, " Besogna mettere i rizzi, " " It is time to serve up the rice, " to prevent its being overdone, equivalent to ringing the dinner-bell. This opera established the reputation of the Gran Maestro, on whom the eyes and ears of the musical world have so long been fixed. Venice is the native place of Goldoni, who may be said to have introduced Comedy amongst the Italians. He first reformed their depraved taste for the maschere of the commedia del' arte, where the Arlecchino of Bergamo, the Dottore of Bo- logna, and the Pantalone of Venice, are the per- sonages who caricature and burlesque rational act- ing, spoiling the public taste for the enjoyment of the genuine drama. Goldoni wrote almost as many standard Italian plays as Moliere did of French. I never saw any of Alfieri's or Monte's tragedies represented ; but if I may be allowed to judge from the performance of the Serious Opera, I should say, that neither Italian talent nor Italian taste are much adapted to the characteristics of the Tragic muse. They do not study nature sufficiently, and their declamation is forced and monotonous ; nor is the deep and refined sentiment of tragedy suited to their natural disposition. Music is the universal resource of the Venetian fashionables, who delight in discussing what they consider a national subject. Their enthusiasm or animosity towards particular composers, appear alike amusing and absurd to our ultramontane ima- ginations. Even the common people bestir them- 86 MUSIC — THE ARSENAL. selves in so grave an affair, opposing innovations in any thing connected with what tiiey term the ** divine art " of music, and they display as much zeal and fervour in the cause of a Cimarosa, a Pa- esiello, or a Rossini, as if they were the heads of po- litical parties or religious sects. This mania is a harmless one, and those possessed of it are perhaps more to be envied than ridiculed. Dramatic sub- jects, too, are now very often chosen from the works of our great English poets. Hamlet, Othello, and the Lady of the Lake, have all been successfully dramatised. Niccolini, a tragic writer of Florence, Manzoni, and Giulio Genoisco of Naples, aie reck- oned among their best living dramatists. We got into a gondola one lovely day to view leisurely the gi'eat canal, which traverses, in a ser- pentine line, the whole city. The gondola is the general conveyance for all classes, in a place the inhabitants of which may be said to live upon the water ; and where there are no carriages, nor indeed any use for them, the lesser canals pe- netrating to every part of the town, and the streets being too narrow except for foot-passengers. We pursued our course till we reached the arsenal, which covers a great many acres of ground, and is situated on an island upwards of five miles in cir- cumference, surrounded by very high walls. I had much gratification in examining an establish- ment (though now of little utility), which, in its day, had equipped those numerous fleets of galleys that conquered the enemies of Venice, and planted the l)anner of St Murk all over the Mediterranean. I rather think we owe to the Venetians the prac- tice of constructing ships of wai' under a roof or PUBLIC GARDENS. 87 shed, adopted since the peace in all the English dock yards, and which protects the timbers so well from the injurious effects of the weather. The foundry, armoury, slips, mast-houses, and other parts of this establishment, though small, are on a very excellent plan, and only inferior to similar departments in Britain. At the entrance are still in excellent preservation the two lions of marble, brought from Athens by Morosini, and which were originally placed on the Piraeus by Themistocles. We next landed on the ground formerly occupied by the Convent of San Ambrogio, where the French government caused a public walk to be made. Its situation on the south-east point of the city, and in the midst of the laguna, near many of the smaller islands, is delightful, commanding an extensive view. Fine avenues of trees, and pleasant walks, have been formed with infinite labour to render this charming spot one of recreation for the Vene- tians. They seem, however, to neglect it. Even on a Sunday, the great day for public promenades on the Continent, I did not observe a dozen of per- sons. The people of Venice are so much accus- tomed to rowing about on the canals and laguna, instead of walking in public squares and green fields, they still prefer gondolas to carriages ; and it is very difficult to change the habits of an entire city. The Austrians are even less popular in Venice than at Milan, where, although disliked, the House of Hapsburg is not unknown. Ever since the death of the last of the Sforzas, Lords of Milan, near three centuries ago, until Napoleon's victo- ries totally changed every Italian government, the Austrian dynasty, with some intervals not of long 88 UNPOPULARITY OF THE AUSTRIANS. duration, had possessed the finest Milanese pro- vinces ; but the Venetians, for upwards of ten cen- turies, had been ruled by their native aristocracy, under the form of a republic, which although suffi- ciently despotic, left the people the reputation of en- joying free institutions ; and if the Venetians could never brook the French, even before Buonaparte an- nexed theii' dominions to the kingdom of Italy, much less can they now be supposed to feel satisfied under an odious foreign sway, alike at variance with their manners and ancient form of government. Francis, though a good natured and paternal sove- reign at home, is an oppressive and harsh master towards his Italian subjects, against whom an illi- beral system is pursued. This oppression is par- ticularly felt at Venice, whose interests are sacrific- ed in order to advance those of the rival and more truly Austrian port of Trieste ; in consequence of which, the population of Venice, which, thirty years ago, was 118,000, is now much under 100,000, one-third of whom are without sufficient means of subsistence; while Padua, which does not even depend upon trade, has, within the same period, increased in like proportion, chiefly by emi- gration from Venice. Most of the palaces are thus abandoned ; as the old nobility to whom they belong are overwhelmed by the expense of main- taining them ; by the unequal taxation to which they are subjected ; and by the loss of those sinecures held under the Republic, from which they derived a great part of their income. Nor are the lower orders better situated ; manufacturers, trades-peo- ple and sailors, being without employment. Venice, like all other Republics, was in fact an artificial PORTO FRANCO. 89 creation. While her port was free as a depot of commerce from all countries, and while she was governed by enlightened native magistrates, her splendour was preserved ; but now I fear she is sunk too low ever to recover her former proud position in the rank of nations. After a row through the harbour, which is very spacious and well sheltered from winds, I went to see the extensive Porto Franco, established a few years ago on the island of St George, nearly opposite to the Piazza di San Marco. There were very few ships of any description in the port, and not one under English colours. They chiefly con- sisted of small coasting vessels, whose voyages seldom extend beyond the Adriatic ; and as I had some idea of taking a passage to Ancona by water, I went on board one of them, a bark of about forty tons burden. The cabin was small ; nor did I ex- pect very delicate accommodation, as the voyage in fine weather seldom exceeds a day or two. The captain demanded two Louis-d'or, a charge which I considered moderate, as it included provision ; but the wind was then directly blowing a strong North-easter^ which prevented his sailing for a few days ; and as I had not much reason to expect a favourable voyage, and my companion was anxious that I should go with him to Bologna, I relinquish- ed the intention of taking a sail on the Adriatic. I next visited those admirable edifices the Lazza- rettos, situated on islands a couple of miles from the Porto Franco. One of them is reserved exclusive- ly for persons infected with the plague; at the other, ships coming from the Levant perform quarantine. I saw three vessels with the yellow flag; but I un- g2 90 MONASTERY OF ST LAZARUS. derstand that, formerly, it was by no means uncom- mon for a hundred sail to be in the port at one time. This establishment was remarkably well conducted, and considered one of the best in Eu- rope. Many of the islands in the Laguna are large and populous, such as Murano and Malamocco, the former of which contains 6000 inhabitants, many of whom are employed in the extensive glass and crystal manufactory for which Venice is 80 celebrated ; the latter was formerly a place of some consideration, and the residence of the Doges. The most interesting island on which I landed was that of St Lazarus, inhabited by a community of Armenian monks, who have a very handsome chm'ch and convent. One of the fathers kindly showed me the objects most worthy of attention in the monastery. Their library contains a great many valuable Oriental manuscripts. A printing press is superintended by the monks themselves ; and they have printed many copies of the Bible, and of some theological works for the Eastern missions ; also French, Armenian, and English dictionaries and grammars. We were presented with one of the works which lately issued from this press, and I consider it a great curiosity. It is a prayer in twenty-four languages and in twelve different cha- racters. They have also some good philosophical and astronomical instruments for the instruction of their young pupils. The monastery and its delight- ful garden, laid out in walks covered with arched arbours, occupy the whole island ; and the indus- trious fathers have lately raised some ground on an adjoining shallow, in order to extend their hor- MONASTERIES AND CHURCHES. 91 ticultural labours. ,; When I took ray leave of the good monk, I was asked to inscribe my name in a register kept for the purpose, — all the recompense expected. Many other convents, monasteries and churches, are worthy of attention, as well for their architec- ture, as for the fine paintings and excellent libraries they contain. The style of the Dominican church of San Giovanni e Paola is uncommon in Italy, being Gothic, with pointed arches, niches, a pro- fusion of ornaments, and a fretted roof. Titian's picture of the Assassination of St Pietro is now replaced in this church, whence it had been sent to the Louvre, and transferred from the panel to can- vass, under the inspection of a committee of the Institute, composed of five eminent painters and chemists, who appear to have performed their delicate operation with complete success. The church of the Fraria is another Gothic edifice ; but it is more remarkable as the burial-place of Titian than for its architecture. The spot where he was interred is marked by the following plain, but appropriate, inscription on the pavement : — " Qui giace il gran Tiziano di Vecelli, Emulator di Zeuci e degli Apelli. " * As this great artist died at a time when the plague raged at Venice, no monument had been erected to his memory. But a few years ago, the Venetians, as if ashamed of so long neglecting the tomb of * Here lies the great Titian Vicelli, Rival of Zeuxis and of Apelles. The two latter names are plural in the original, for the sake of the rhyme. 92 TOMBS OF TITIAN AND CANOVA. their best painter, applied to Canova, who was also a native of their territories, to furnish a design. Ca- nova formed a very elegant one, a large white mar- ble pyramid, with four figures at the base which re- presents the entrance to the tomb. One of them is the genius of Painting, and another the genius of Death, with an inverted and extinguished torch, lamenting the most transcendent ornament of the fine arts. But before it was finished the great Canova himself died, and the monument was erect- ed in the same church to his own memory, only changing the genius of painting into that of the sister art of sculpture. Titian's modest sepulchre is still unadorned ; but a similar monument is or- dered for him, to be placed opposite to that of his distinguished compatriot Canova. My hasty sketches of this remarkable city must necessarily be imperfect ; for of its hundred pala- ces and churches, I had only time to visit a few of the most striking. To the greater portion of these I have already directed the attention of the reader, and I shall merely enumerate a few of the others. The convent of San Francisco della Vig- na is a handsome edifice, built of Istrian marble ; its front beautifully adorned with composite co- lumns of the same material. The church of tlje Scalzi, or bare-footed Carmelites, is ornamented with bright red French marble, and spirally twisted columns at the high altar. San Giorgio Maggiore contains a number of good pictures by Bassano and Tintoretto, as well as the celebrated marriage of Cana, by Paulo Veronese. This splendid church is considered one of the finest of Palladio's works in Venice ; the Iledemptore is another. Palladio was I OBSERVATIONS ON VENICE. 93 also the architect of the Balbi and Grimani palaces on the Foscari canal, built after his own peculiarly chaste and elegant style. The Salute church is well worthy of attention ; and some of the more ancient edifices contain many curious monuments, connected with the history of the remarkable fa- milies and of the state. Some fine pieces of sculp- ture adorn the tombs of the Doges Venier and Ni- colas da Ponte ; and many private palaces are rich in paintings by the earlier masters, such as the two Bellinos and their contemporaries. Venice likewise possesses some of Canova's admirable works, such as, the Daedalus and Icarus, Psyche, Sec. it being the spot where his incipient genius was first developed. The cloister of one of the convents formed his workshop for several years. Besides that most important branch of Venetian commerce, glass, crystal, and mirrors, the manu- facture of velvet, silk, damask, and telescopes, af- ford employment to numerous workmen. Jewel- lery, especially the fabrication of curious gold chains, the latter by females chiefly, forms also a considerable branch of industry. The fine arts, though not so flourishing as formerly, are still cultivated. Sculpture, copper-plate engraving, and typography, are rather on the decline, although the latter branch was highly important when Venice was the book-mart for Greece and Austria. But the press labours under so many restrictions in every part of the Imperial dominions, even the mechanical arts, connected with literature, cannot meet with much encouragement. Still there is no city of Italy where purchases can so certainly and advantageously be made, especially of those magni- 94 ST mark's TOWER—GALILEO. ficient editions of classical and vernacular works published during the 16th and 17th centuries. Venice is still famed for its liqueurs and the- riaky (a preparation of opium) ; and the most ex- quisite coffee I ever tasted was under the splen- did arcade of the Piazza di St Marco. If not ** Mocha's berry from Arabia pure," it is such as no other place affords. Whether this proceeds from any peculiarity in the method of infusion, or superiority of quality, I know not, but its excel- lence is universally recognised. On the Sd of October, I took a farewell view of this far-famed city from St Mark's Tower, the same from whence Galileo often made his astronomical observations, and for which he was imprisoned by the Inquisition. This square edifice, 360 feet in height, is so constructed, that one might ride to the top on horseback, there being no steps, the ascent winding gradually by an inclined plane of brickwork. The prospect from the top is superb, and embraces all Venice, as well as the murazzi, or sea-wall, whicli prevents the encroachment of the Adriatic. These massive stone bulwarks are constructed on a line of sandy islands, so as to render the defence against the action of the sea perfectly secure. " Ausu Romano cere Veneto, " * was Napoleon's inscription on them. On the north, the view is bounded by the Julian Alps, extending from the coast of Istria to the Lake of Garda. At tlieir foot are lower hills, and a plain sloping towards the sea, studded with numberless towns and villages. The Rialto and its beautiful bridge, recalled forcibly to my ♦ " With Roman daring by Venetian wealth. " THE Rl ALTO — SHAKSPE ARE — OTWAY. 95 mind Shylock, Portia, and other vividly-drawn characters, so familiar to all who are acquaint- ed with Shakspeare's works, — and who is not ? Othello's name is identified with the Doge's pa- lace and its gloomy grandeur. One could almost fancy Pierre and Jaffier in the Piazza di San Marco, the original scenery of those interesting dramas in which " the City of the Waters " is ce- lehrated by the magic art of Otway and our im- mortal bard, at a period when this famous oli- garchy was mistress of the sea. CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY TO FLORENCE. At midnight, I took my station in the post-boat from Venice, and soon after my travelling com- panion joined me. A calm serene night of perfect darkness made the effect of the lights from the windows and lamps, as we glided swiftly through the great canal, appear the more brilliant. We were not long in passing under the fine marble arch of the Rialto ; but its double row of shops was at that late hour deserted. No noise was heard, except the splashing of oars in the wa- ter, or the occasional cry of the gondoliers, to prevent accidents as they passed rapidly along. A few hours elapsed ere we got quite out of the ca- nal, and across the laguna ; but fortunately we met with no delay at the customhouse, which is situa- ted on a small island, not far from the mainland. The conduttore required merely to report our names, and we were allowed to pass, it being part of the duty of those employed at the post-offices in the Austrian States, to see that all passports are regular when places are taken in the public conveyances. At Mestre, the case was different, and we were detained a very considerable time ; but PADUA — ITS UNIVERSITY. 9T as the Cafe was open, I availed myself of the oppor- tunity to breakfast at the eaily hour of three in the morning". Numbers of thriving villages and splendid villas, in a handsome style of architecture, line the banks of the river. The first rays of the sun were just beginning to fall on the ancient and venerable city of Padua, as we reached it ; but the grass now grows on its desolate streets ; many of its houses are crumbling into dust ; the marble palaces of the Can-aras and its other princes are shut up ; and learning* has fled from the birth-place of Livy. Its forsaken university is now reduced to one solitary college. Professors and doctors are still there ; and the old clock (which has replaced the famous invention of the celebrated astronomer Dondi) still reminds the few straggling students when to repair to their studies ; but recollecting the fame of " Pa- dua la dotta," * and its ancient splendour, we ask, where are its many thousand scholai's ? They have abandoned this once favoured seat of the Muses ; they cultivate no longer the treasures of learning and science in the school of Malphigi, of Petrarch, of Tasso, of Galileo, and of Columbus, which is now silent, deserted, and gloomy. Padua still contains several remains of its ancient magnificence. Of these, one of the most interest- ing is the Great Hall, " II Salone, " standing in the centre of the piazza or principal square, and formerly the scene of election, investiture, and ad- ministration of the magistrates of the republic, hav- ing been erected between 1172 and 1306. A * Padua the Learned. 98 IL SALONE— SINGULAR TRADITION. conidor of Verona marble runs round the whole building, and fornos the ground-story, now occupied with shops, but which originally contained the offices of government. Above, with doors open- ing into the corridor, is the hall itself, 320 feet long by 138 broad, and the same in height, being one of the largest apartments in the world whose roof is not supported by columns. The roof itself is of most ingenious construction, — not containing a single piece of timber above twelve feet long, the whole being held together on the principle of the arch. Round the walls, painted in fresco by Giotto, though since retouched, are ranged various ancient marbles found in the vicinity, while on each side of the gi*eat entrance is placed an Egyp- tian statue, sent from the East by the enterprising Belzoni, who was also a native of Padua. There is a singular tradition still current regarding this hall, that when the roof was fitted to its situation, almost covered in, but not quite secured to the walls, a violent whirlwind suddenly arising lifted it fairly from its position, and, without fracturing the smallest spar, deposited it in the square be- neath, and that, too, while the architect himself was sitting on the very side I The churches of Padua, though, generally speaking, of gloomy architecture, contain many very precious monuments of the fine arts, both as respects the elucidation of their early history — several having been painted by the disciples of the earliest school of Florence — and as regards the intrinsic merits of individual works, as the sculptures on the shrine of St Antony, the St John of Guido, in the church of St Eremitani, as also the monument of the Prince of Orange by CENOTAPH OF PETRARCH. 99 Canova. The cenotaph of Petrarch * by Bando is interesting, as being erected in the Duomo or Cathedral of which the poet was a canon. The former renown of Padua, too, contrasts in painful interest with its present fallen condition. One of the most ancient cities of Europe — having been built, according to Virgil, by Antinor, soon after the Trojan war — her citizens successively con- tributed, and not without effect, against the en- croachments of Lacedemon and of Rome ; to which latter they finally became most useful allies, send- ing to her armies 20,000 men, and numbering a- mong their members 500 Roman knights. When the night of barbarism had passed away, Padua was again among the first to cherish the return of liberty ; but Venice would suffer no rival near her throne — and now both are provinces of Austria. After spending a few hours in the melancholy city of Padua, it was quite refreshing to turn from its desolate streets, and again view the rich pas- tures stretching into misty distance, with the gay villages scattered on each side. Proceeding on- wards by the canal, we saw the gloomy castles of Obizzi and Cutajo, and soon after passed near to the Euganean Hills, towards Arqua, where Pe- trai'ch died. In allusion to this place, Boccacio * An eminent professor of the university, Signore Mar- sand, has formed a numerous collection of Petrarch's va- luable manuscripts, and a copy of every edition of his works that has been published, as well as many interesting books relative to the celebrated poet. These, I am told, he is now anxious to dispose of ; and this would, therefore, be a favourable opportunity for some of our bibliomanists to enrich their libraries. 100 ARgUA — THE PO — THE RUBICON' spoke in the following enthusiastic terms. " I envy Arqua the happiness it enjoys, of receiving into its bosom the remains of a man whose heart was the residence of the Muses, the sanctuaiy of philosophy, of eloquence, and the fine arts. This village, hardly known even at Padua, will become famous throughout the world ; it will be respected as we respect Pausilippo, because it contains the ashes of Virgil ; the banks of the Euxine for the tomb of Ovid ; and Smyrna, because there Homer was buried." At length we came to the banks of the rapid Po, which separates the Imperial dominions from the States of the Church. We were soon swung across in a ferry-boat, attached by ropes to four or five smaller vessels, the uppermost being moored in the middle of the river, up the stream, when the current, acting on the ferry-boat placed dia- gonally by means of the helm, impelled her rapid- ly to the other side. Such is the efficiency of this mode, that carriages are driven on board, and, with- out moving from then* seats, or having their horses unharnessed, travellers are conveyed across, and, driving out at the other end of the boat, pursue their journey. An escort of Papal dragoons were in waiting to accompany the coach which was to conduct us to Ferrara, — not so much for the pur- pose of protecting us against robbers, as with a view to prevent any contraband articles being in- troduced into the sacred territories. Upon many insignificant rivulets the name of the Rubicon has been bestowed, and travellers are still undecided as to their claims, although the Pisciatello, which we now passed, is generally sup- PERRARA — TASSO— LEONORA. 101 posed to be that river so celebrated in the annals of Roman warfare. It is only astonishing that a paltry brook, now almost unknown, should ever have formed so important a boundary as that be- tween Rome and Gaul. This, however, may be explained on the supposition, that, by the well- known accumulation of alluvial soil, a stream once of some magnitude, may have been separated into various insignificant divisions. Who has not heard of the fair and pining city of Ferrara, and its proud Dukes, who played so distinguished a part during the middle ages ? Its appearance is noble and majestic, though gloomy and desolate. Its old fortifications, straight and wide streets, and the Gothic structure of its build- ings, still exist. But, alas ! the heavy ducal pa- lace, the fortress of the House of Este, with its turretted battlements, ditches and drawbridges, taking " their form and pressure " from feudal customs, are now falling fast to decay. This city was the theatre of many splendid festivals, as well as horrible crimes, when the court of the ancient royal line of Este was held within its walls. A Cardinal, who acts as Governor of the Legation of Ferrara, now inhabits one wing of the palace or fortress ; but having nothing to do with his Emi- nence, we avoided that part which is distinguish- ed by the triple tiara and keys of St Peter over the gateway, emblazoned by " barbaric carving, painting and gilding, " confining our visit to the long damp corridors, which so forcibly recalled to our imaginations the images of Ariosto, Tasso, and Leonora. Nor did we omit to view the dun- geon under what was fofn/ei^ty* tie, knattc.bp^pi- 102 TASSO'S PRISON. tal of St Anne, where the infamous Duke Alfonso ordered his quondam friend to be imprisoned for seven yeai's, alleging, I fear with too much truth, that the intellects of the highly gifted poet were deranged. Could there be a stronger proof of incipient madness, than to kiss a princess in the presence of the whole court ? The Duke is re- ported to have said very coolly, " What a pity that so great a man should have lost his senses ! " Tasso's imprudent passion also caused him to be guilty of many outrageous acts of violence, afford- ing too good an excuse for the harsh conduct of this despicable tyrant, who availed himself of the specious charge of insanity, to refuse the request of most of the sovereigns of Italy, who deigned to use their influence to procure his liberation. We stooped low to enter the miserable cell, scarcely nine feet square, the scene of the ill-fated Tasso's protracted sufferings. The entrance is by a narrow door in one end, close to which is the only window, grated, and looking out upon a gloomy court surrounded by a low corridor. I deciphered, amongst many names with which its walls were covered, those of " Byron " and " Casimir dela Vigne," who had left these records of their homage to the genius and misfortunes of a kindred spirit. The other curiosities of Ferrara, are chiefly of a literary nature. The Library is a plain but hand- some building, containing some valuable manu- scripts, and many rare editions of the classics. Among the former are Tasso's autograph letters, and two copies of the Gerusalemme, also in his own hand ; two manuscripts of Ariosto s " Orlando," ARIOSTO — ALBEROO DI TRE MORI. 103 one at least original ; the pewter inkstand and the oaken chair of this most romantic of poets ; as also a medal which had been deposited with his body, and found when his tomb, an erection not very re- maikable, was opened by the French General Miollis. This medal, as well as the original por- trait by Dosso Dossi, show Ariosto, like Tasso, to have been " of noble presence. '* In a sequestered part of the city, still stands the house of Ariosto, a modest building, to which his own simple and independent inscription appears to have been very appropriate, " Though not sumptuous, it is enough for me — and purchased with my own money. " Here the favourite room of the owner, and that in which he died, remains exactly as it then stood ; but its two cheerful windows, instead of command- ing the gardens of the " peaceful cloystre " and the distant landscape, are obscured by the vicinity of a German barrack. We returned to our albergo, which was quite in keeping with every thing connected with Fer- rara. " I Tre Mori, " * designated in the guide- book as the first hotel in the town, had induced us to take up our quarters there, a measure of which we afterwards repented. Entering through an immense old-fashioned feudal-looking hall, hung round with the arms and escutcheons of different royal personages who had visited " The Three Moors " amongst which I distinguished those of the late Queen Caroline, we were ushered into a large and lofty, but gloomy eating-apartment, which opened into a bedroom of huge dimen- * Th« Three Moors. 104 adventuhe at sions. Every thing here seemed to be on a , great scale. After despatching an indifferent dinner, and imbibing a quantity of bad wine, we strolled out at rather a late hour, and found the . air heavy and unwholesome, arising from the marshy nature of the soil for many miles around. Resolving to counteract the damp chilly effects of the atmosphere, by resorting to the first coffee- house we discovered, we searched some time in vain for such a convenience, and could scarcely find a solitary one in this celebrated city. On retiring to my dreary half- furnished sleep- ing apartment, although there were four beds and as many doors and windows in it, I had it all to myself, there being few guests at the inn. Fatigue and ennui induced me to go immediately to bed, where I soon fell asleep, dreaming of dungeons, chains, Tasso, and the fair Leonora. I was soon awakened, however, by a horrible scream ; and while endeavouring to recompose myself, I heard some most remarkable sounds, accompanied by slow, heavy, gigantic footsteps, proceeding from the adjoining room. I started from my pillow, and the longer I listened, the more alarming became the noise. Such steps seemed to in- dicate the presence of a supernatural being. The crazy doors of my gloomy apartment shook till the very floor trembled ; but fortunately I had taken the precaution of bolting them be- fore retiring to rest. The noise increased in no slight degree, accompanied by frightful groans ; and although I endeavoured to banish appre- hension, it was in vain I attempted to sleep. Having secured my purse and watch by con. PER KARA, 105 cealing them under the mattress, although desti- tute of any means of resistance, I resolved not to surrender voluntarily. A multitude of simi- lar adventures crowded upon my mind ; all the dreadful stories I had ever heard of assassins, Italian banditti, the inn at Terracina, and (what seemed the cause of my most immediate danger), the cut- throat look of our host himself; in short, all that was honible rushed upon my thoughts dm*- ing that dreadful night. The noise still continu- ed, and now hearing indistinctly, and incoherently these words in French, " Ouvrez, ouvrez ; ouvent me tuer ; voleurs ! voleurs ! " * I became almost as much exhausted as the fancied victim of their fii*st attack. Soon after, I heard a low groan ; and the noise ceased at last ; to my great joy, I fell into a sound sleep, and did not waken till morning. Such an occun'ence might appear in rather a ridiculous light in a comfortable Eng- lish inn, where a pull at the bell would summon the whole household in a few minutes. But in Italy, such a luxury is unknown in the unfrequent- ed parts of the country ; nay, even in large cities, bells, good attendance, and civil waiters, are by no means common. Besides, at such a place as I have described, there was a just presumption that the people of the house might be in league with robbers or assassins. However, in this instance, I had formed an erroneous opinion of the " Tre Mori, " which I found out next morning when aroused at an early hour by my friend. On my opening the door to admit him, he awned that * Open ! open ! They wish to kill me ! Robbers ! Robbers ! 106 BOLOGNA. he had been the culprit ; and attributed his beha- viour, in the first instance, to a frightful dream ; and on awakening and hearing a dreadful noise occasioned by the windows moving hither and thither on their crazy hinges by the wind, which blew a hurricane in the night, he imagined that robbers were attacking us ; and being naturally of a highly excited temperament, he was impelled to conduct himself in that extraordinary manner. I could not refrain from laughing, at the idea of a Russian guardsman being such a prey to fear, al- though the joke was equally against myself, and he good-hum ouredly joined in my mirth. We ordered breakfast, however, and a carriage im- mediately, and were not a little delighted, in an- other hour, to find ourselves fairly out of Ferrara. The distance to Bologna is only about thirty miles, through a flat, swampy, but rather well cul- tivated country, enclosed by hedges, and inter- spersed with houses inhabited by substantial far- mers and a hardy peasantry. The aspect of the farms and hamlets improves the nearer we ap- proach Bologna. This is a large and wealthy town, remarkable for the architecture of its public buildings, and noblemen's palaces, as well as for the low open arcades with which the principal streets are lined on both sides, and which give the place a heavy and monastic appearance, though in warm or wet weather tlie dull efl^ect is more than compensated by the shade and shelter afforded to pedestrians. We were again unfortunate in our choice of an inn. Having passed so unpleasant a night at Ferrara, my companion was resolved to go to the BOLOGNA. 107 Albergo Reale at Bologna, in order, as he said, to make sure of good accommodations. Indeed its appearance was much in its favour, being a large and handsome palazzo, once the residence of a now reduced nobleman. But I augured badly of it, from the circumstance of meeting on the stairs a Ve- netian family, who re-entered their carriage, and ordered the postillion to drive to the Leone di San Marco, (an excellent inn, as I have since learned). Finding that there was abundance of room, I asked the waiter, why the people had left his hotel ? He answered very cooly, " Non siamo convenute del prezzo ; " * which we considered sa- tisfactory, as it is by no means uncommon to agree about charges before taking possession, the sys- tem having been introduced on the Continent by the English in their own defence, owing to fre- quent imposition. The dinners at the Albergo Reale were far from being good, even although we had the addition of the " mortadelli, " or well known Bologna sausages. The wine was the worst I ever drank ; it had the sweet, rough, and disagreeable taste peculiar to the produce of the north of Italy, which spoils all flavour. Moreover, I found, by my bill afterwards, that I paid exactly double what it had cost me for living at the Es- cudo di Francia, in Venice, an excellent hotel near the Rialto. Shortly after my arrival, I went to see the two Towers, the Asinelli and Garisenda, which are in the middle of the city. The former is a very high square brick-building, with about as much archi- tectuial beauty as the chimneys attached to steam- * " We have not agreed about terms." 108 LEANING TOWER. engines in England, although in general those are not quite so lofty as this edifice. The other is the Leaning Tower, mentioned hy Dante, equally ugly, but remarkable from the circumstance of its diverging about eight feet from the perpendicular, which must evidently have resulted from some de- fect in the foundation. To the same cause may be attributed its unfinished state. It is scarcely more than half the height of the Asinelli ; nor can it boast of greater elegance of architecture, being built with coarse bricks, and equally devoid of or- nament. Bologna possesses a very rich collection of paintings by the most eminent masters, at the Scuola delle belle Arti, a public gallery which I would cross the Alps on purpose to view, and con- sider myself well rewarded for my trouble. In the corridors and the first saloon, there are many paintings by the old masters, who lived at the pe- riod of the revival of the arts in Italy, chiefly painted on a gilded ground, in the manner then practised in Greece. The two principal rooms contain a most splendid assemblage of master- pieces by the three Carracci, who flourished in the latter part of the sixteenth century, and also by their distinguished pupils Guido Reni, Albano, Domenichino, Guercino, and Michael Angelo Car- avaggio, who brought the Bolognese school intosuch high repute. This school is called the Eclectic, from its principles, or frequently the Scuola Carraccesca, from its founders, who attempted, although vainly, (as the event showed), to harmonize and combine the various beauties of the different styles. This bold and fine theoiy proved impracticable, from BOLOGNESE SCHOOL OF PAINTING. 109 its undefined and heterogeneous nature ; and each succeeding master adopted that particular path to which his genius impelled him. Totally disre- garding the principle which the Carracci had en- deavoured to inculcate, they produced, notwith- standing, some admirable works, and which have lent a lustre to the art. One of Guido's best com- positions, the Massacre of the Innocents, is con- tained in this collection, as well as his picture of the Patron Saints of Bologna, famed for its splendid colouring. The design of Domenichino's Martyrdom of St Agnes is grand and bold, but the subject is very revolting. The Mysteries of the Rosary, by the same hand, and Raphael's St Cecilia, are looked upon as two of the best in the gallery ; which also boasts of some choice pic- tures by Titian, Paulo Veronese, and several ex- cellent works of other well known masters of the Venetian school. Every good collection of paint- ing and sculptm-e, when the public can have oc- casional access to it, is of service. It accustoms the eye to the characteristics of nature correctly represented, and to images of beauty and perfect forms, the presence of which will ultimately be productive of advantage, not only to the local artists, but to the country itself, by the inducement held out to foreigners for the purposes of study and amusement. The churches, palaces, museums, institutes, li- braries, and other attractive objects which Bologna contains, would occupy weeks to examine in de- tail ; and during the few days which I spent there^ I had neither time to peep into every church, nor to view half of the private collections of pictures^ 1 10 UNIVERSITY CASSINI. and other works of art, for which it has so long been celebrated, and in that respect looked upon as one of the richest cities in Italy. Its university, which was in great repute in scholastic times, as the mater studiorum of the Pope's territories, still subsists, and has produced many distinguished cha- racters in literature, medicine, philosophy, and o- ther sciences, amongst whom figure several ladies ; Clotilde Tambroni, not many years ago having filled the chair of Greek Literature ! But some of the sys- tems then taught have since been discovered to be useless and nugatory, and are therefore exploded from the cumculum of more enlightened colleges, where the Baconian philosophy has been intro- duced, and the fallacies of the Stagyrite allowed to fall into desuetude. Bologna was chiefly indebted for its former fame to medicine. Law and divinity now nearly en- gross the attention of its ablest professors, while natural science and physics are in a great measure neglected. A chair is still alloted to each faculty, notwithstanding the reductions that have taken place in the number of its colleges. I was much pleased with the church of St Petronio, though built in rather a discordant style of architecture. It was commenced in the fourteenth century, and is yet unfinished ; for tlie front is rough, and re- quires an ornamented coat. Its interior is grand and striking, and contains some fine paintings ; and on the pavement within, is the meridian line, 219 feet in length, equivalent to iERA-HOUSES. admission is low, as in all Italian theatres, not exceeding two shillings to the pit ; which, like that of the Opera-house in London, is the usual place of resort for gentlemen. Some of the boxes are spacious ; but the greater part of them are private. In some of the scenes which repre- sent streets and buildings, I observed a want of cor- rect perspective, unpardonable in this land of the arts, where one would expect to find greater atten- tion paid to minute and apparently trivial details. Although there were no first-rate singers engaged, the music was admirable. In point of orchestral strength, England must yield the palm to Germany and Italy ; for, even in the minor theatres of these nations, she is excelled. They have always an im- posing host of performers, scarcely inferior to our Lindleys and Nicholsons, from amongst whom they make their selections. Even German sovereigns are sometimes seen presiding in the orchestra of their opera-houses. When at Darmstadt, I was told that the Grand Duke is so excellent a per- former, that he occasionally appears in public, su- perintending the fiddlers ; and it is said the main- tenance of his dramatic corps costs more than his whole army in time of peace ! We generally find in the larger theatres, that unless the voice happens to be extremely powerful it is quite lost, so seldom is the construction of the edifice free from defect. The Cocomero, however, is a small but excellent theatre, chiefly for the opera bufFa ; and there is attached to it, a very good corps de ballet^ among whom are many beautiful females. The architecture and bassi relievi of the church of La Santissiraa Nunzsiata, which forms one side ClIURCH OF S. MARIA NOVELLA. 141 of tlie square of that name, are very much admi- red. Besides many good oil-paintings, it con- tainia Andrea del Sarto's famous Madonna del Sacco in the cloister, so called because the painter agreed to receive in payment a bag of wheat, which he has introduced into his fresco, with St Joseph reposing upon it ; while the Virgin is represented seated on a cushion, with the infant Jesus in her arms. There are several other frescoes, by An- drea del Sarto, in the portico of the convent, pre- ferable to this, although many consider it his mas- terpiece, merely because it has acquired a great degi'ee of celebrity, and has been very often copied and engraved. But among the finest churches in Florence, that of St Maria Novella, belonging to the Dominican order, is the most remarkable ; and so much did Michael Angelo admire it, that he is said to have studied its architecture, in some instances adopt- ing it as his model. The altar-pieces are all by Cimabue, Orgagna, and other eminent old masters. In the choir there are some beautiful pictures by Ghirlandajo (Buonarotti's master), in which he has introduced portraits of the Medici, and other great men of the day. This convent and some others are well known for their adjoining phar- macies and perfumeries, prepared by the indus- trious friars, who supply the sick with the best medicines — on the lowest terms to those who do pay, and gratis to the poor. One day I devoted a couple of hours to the se- pulchral chapel of the Medici family, erected a-» bout two centuries ago by order of Ferdinand I., and dedicated to San Lorenzo. The splendour 142 DEI SEPOLCHRI— TOMBS OP THE MEIHCI. of this wonder of Florence baffles all description, but it is far too rich and gaudy for the mausoleum of any prince. It is yet in an unfinished state, and consists of a chapel and sacristy — the former being of a moderate size, and in the shape of an octagon, surmounted by a lofty and elegant cupola. In the latter are the far-famed tombs which give the name to the chapel (Dei Sepolchri). These are the entire works of Michael Angelo, consist- ing each of a sarcophagus of white marble, on which recline two allegorical sculptures, while above, in a niche, sits the statue of the deceased, ** — There from age to age Two ghosts are seated on their sepulchre, " These figures represent Giuliano, Duke of Ne- mours, and Lorenzo de Medici, Duke of Urbino, the former brother of Leo X., the latter father of Alexander I. ; and for truth of expression, espe- cially that of Lorenzo, rank among the finest ex- amples of modern art. Respecting the allegorical personages, much dispute has arisen ; but on the most competent authority, they are considered as personifying in the one instance Dawn and 2W- liffhtf in the other Night and Dai/, " gigantic forms- Turned into stone, rest everlastingly, Yet still are breathing, and shed round at noon A twofold influence. These monuments occupy the two sides of the chapel right and left of the altar, opposite to which is another celebrated work of the same artist, being a group in white marble, of the Virgin and Child, like the two former also unfinished. Still it is im- MICHAEL ANGELO. 143 possible not to discover how admirable they would have been, had they received the last exquisite touch from his chisel. Even the rough outline displays a certain gracefulness and symmetry sel- dom equalled by any other artist ; and none has been found bold enough to attempt the restoration, or rather completion, of works which this sublime master unfortunately left unfinished. The head of a satyr was Michael Angelo's first effort, when he was only fifteen. It is a remarkable performance for a boy ; but more so, from its having been the means of introducing him to Lorenzo il Magnifico, and ensuring the future patronage of that prince. The characteristic style of this eminent artist was sub- limity of conception and endless variety of subor- dinate parts. He stamped even meanness and deformity with grandeur ; and it has been said, that " his infants teem with the man, and that his men were a race of giants. " He was the in- ventor of Epic painting, but contented himself with a negative colour, rejecting all meretricious ornament. To give the appearance of ease and intelligibility to the most difficult subjects was his peculiar talent. Thus he exhibited the origin, progress, and final dispensations of the Theocracy, in the Sixtine chapel ; and personified motion in the groups of the cartoons of Pisa. It would be difficult to say in which of the three arts, of paint- ing, sculpture, or architecture, Buonarotti excel- led, so great was he in each ; yet it has been his fate to be censured for the impotence of a host of copyists, who, making futile attempts to approach the grandeur of his forms, instead of seizing his bold inspiration, only succeed in imitatbg him 144 GOVEilNMENT-^-LIBRARIES. in his moments of dereliction, when he deviated into mannerism. Tuscany is, I have no doubt, the happiest cotm- try in Italy. Although the government is abso- lute, it is tempered with much mildness and mo- deration ; nor do the Tuscans feel the want of a constitution, for there are few existing abuses to re- form, and they are attached to the reigning family. They forget its Austrian origin, and look upoA Leopold the Second as an Italian, born and brought up amongst them. Tliey were by no means friend- ly to the French ; and the Austrians, who succeed- ed in the temporary possession of Tuscany, never gained much of their affections. Indeed, all the Italians seem to have been disgusted by the parsi- mony, haughtiness, and morosenessof the Austrians. The present administration enjoys the confidence of the Prince, and the respect of the people. Universal and well organized laws have been instituted, and the real intention of justice is never paralyzed by unequal administration. The higher orders are generally engaged in patriotic and laudable pur- suits — patronizing the arts, sciences, and literature, which, thus encouraged, are successfully cultivated. In Florence, the three principal libraries are the Magliabechina, rich in rare books of the fifteenth century, and valuable manuscripts ; the Riccardia- na ; and that of the Medici at San Lorenzo. This last contains the identical manuscript volumes col- lected from the East, at so much cost and care by Cosmo and Lorenzo ; and from which, in more than one instance, were obtained the present print- ed editions, and our knowledge of certain Greek authors. The Library itself is the architecture of ACADEMIES — CHARITIES. 145 M. Angelo, even to the oaken desks, and covers of the books; and his, it is also said, was the invention, still in use, of chaining each volume to its place, so that they may be consulted but not removed. The academy of fine arts reckons amongst its members all the principal native, and many foreign artists. Paramount authority was assumed by the ancient Delia Crusca over the vernacular language, which is now united to the Apatisca, under the name of " Academia Fiorentina. " This is a very flourish- ing establishment, and was founded by the Grand Duke Leopold for literary purposes. It exercises a beneficial controul over Italian philology, as it is absolutely necessary there should exist a standard for the classical language of a country where so many dialects are written and spoken. In charitable institutions, there is the Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova, a large and well-conducted hospital for sick persons of all descriptions ; the Bonifacio, destined for insane persons and invalids ; finally, the " Innocents, " for foundlings, orphans, and destitute children. I have often thought the want of such an establishment as the latter a reflection on the inhabitants of the richest city in Europe (London); for the foundling hospital there is a misnomer, a certain interest being required to obtain admittance for children. Paris, even Lisbon, and most of the great cities in Europe, have foundling hospitals, where children are indiscri- minately received, without any questions being asked. The Misericordia ought to be regarded as a model for National imitation. This interesting and useful institution, is not peculiar to Flo- 146 LA MISERICORDIA rence ; for similar establishments exist at Pisa, and in many towns of Italy and other Catholic coun- tries, being of great antiquity. Its members con- sist of three classes ; — the first, or Capi de Guardia, includes the Grand Duke, the Archbishop, the principal nobility and dignified clergy ; the second is composed of several hundreds of gentlemen, clergymen, and merchants ; and the third class con- fined to laymen, musters upwards of a thousand members, comprising tradesmen and mechanics. It is not unusual to meet a detachment of this fra- ternity attending in profound silence the funerals of the poor, bearing torches (all funerals are after sunset in Italy), and surrounded by the insignia of death. They also distribute alms among the poor, from a fund raised for the purpose by this brother- hood of mercy, which is only composed of per- sons of good character and behaviour ; and they occasionally parade the city in the dress of their order, soliciting charity in aid of their funds. The poorer members of the order when sick, are pro- vided with a physician, and allowed a weekly sura from the funds of the institution. They hold them- selves ready to attend on any emergency ; and not only visit the sick, but convey them to the hospital, and, when dead, to the sepulchre. Even Leopold himself has been known to bear on his shoulders the covered litter of the Misericordia conveying a pauper to the hospital ; and in the eyes of a phi- lanthropist, the black vestment of the order of mercy must then have been even more honourable to him than the purple of the Emperor. When mentioning the Misericordia, which rec- kons among its members so many of the first no- THE BUONUOMINI— NOBILITY. 147 bility, I may add that there is another institution in Florence, composed of about twenty of the same class, called the Buonuomini de San Martino, which was founded by St Antonino, a benevolent Archbishop of Florence, in the fifteenth century, for the philanthropic purpose of collecting and distributing alms among the decayed gentry, who can neither work nor want, and are ashamed to beg. Large sums are thus distributed weekly among many who are starving under a genteel appearance, and would blush to make known their poverty. This brotherhood of benevolent spies upon domestic misery, also search for the retreats of suffering de- licacy, whom they visit periodically and relieve. Most of these poveri vergognosi * are ladies who live in garrets, and never go out except to the early mass, unperceived. I understand this es- tablishment now provides for above 600 families. Travellers, as a matter of course, represent the Italian nobility as destitute of energy and liberali- ty, engrossed by trifling occupations, such as dancing and singing ; nay, many persons stigma- tise them as degenerate, ignorant, and dissipated. Florence certainly presents a proof of the injustice of these reproaches ; for its aristocracy employ much of their time, talents, and wealth, in pro- moting charitable and literary institutions, such as I have described. They found schools for mutual instruction, and patronize and encourage the fine arts and liberal sciences. When I was at Bologna, Milan, Venice, and other cities of Italy, I was as- sured from good authority, (after much personal in- * Bashful poor. 148 FLORENTINE SOCIETY. vestigation, amongst natives as well as foreigners), that very many who have been similarly aspersed, follow the same laudable course. In winter the society of Florence is excellent. I am told the Florentines live with much economy at home, but the upper classes display a good deal of luxury in their equipages, and some taste in their country houses, many of which are elegant and much preferable to their sombre Casas in town. Count Demidoff, a rich but very feeble and 4ecrepid Russian, takes the lead in society. This wealthy and affable person is said to have been ori- ginally a slave ; but my Russian friend assured me such was not the case ; he having inherited from his father, who was, however, of the lowest origin, some gold mines, which produced an immense an- nual revenue. Demidoff is now a Florentine mer- chant, a Russian count, and an Italian commenda- tore, and has in his pay a tolerable company of French comedians. His soirees, to which the in- troduction of a friend procured me an invitation, commence with a play or vaudeville, and are ex- tremely pleasant. The Roman Prince Borghese, who has the largest income of any Italian noble- man, also gives parties once a week when at Florence, and spends his 50,000/. a year nobly. It is good policy of the Grand Duke to conciliate two such wealthy individuals. He renders their stay in his capital agreeable by every means in his power, as the want of courtesy in the Papal Court forced them to quit Rome, where the loss of their princely establishments is severely felt, and their presence proportionately appreciated by the Flo- rentines. DEPARTURF. FROM FLORENCE. 149 Early one moming the Baron de B — made his appearance in my room with a Roman vettnrino, and expressed himself very anxious to set off. I felt quite disposed to accompany him, for in the streets, at the inns, and on the promenades, one only meets with English people ; and as I came not to Florence to see my own countrymen, I thought the sooner I took my departure for Rome the bet- ter, before they made their periodical flight south. When the English commence migrating, the hire of conveyances of every description is doubled, and the country inns are crowded to excess with those birds of passage. We examined the vet- lurino's coach, which we found strong and com- modious. The horses also looked well ; but some hours after securing our places, and engaging " mezze carozza, " (half of the carriage) we were told there were to be six inside, a condition I had before rejected. The vetturino, in order to recon- cile me to this inconvenience, said that two of the passengers were merely piccula bambini, (little children. After a protracted negotiation, every thing was arranged to our satisfaction, we con- senting to have two German artists and an Italian Count, as companions, taking the cabriolet seats alternately. M 2 CHAPTER VI. JOURNEY TO ROME. October 20tk, —When on the road to the " Eter- nal City, " the termination of my Cisalpine pere- grinations, I had a much better opportunity, dur- ing a journey of six days, to judge of the manner of vetturino travelling, than the slight initiation, which a couple of days, by the same conveyance, from Bologna, afforded me. I had been advised always to make a written agreement, and to get it signed by the vetturino, without which I should certainly be imposed upon, and a thousand unpleas- ant events might happen. However, as it turned out, although I never on any occasion acted upon the well-meant advice, I suffered no inconvenience from the omission. At Rome and Florence the waiters of the principal hotels, who recommend tra- vellers to particular vetturini, have a certain feeling ^ being allowed a perquisite of a paul * on every crown, or one tenth part, of the sum agreed upon, in order to secure a continuance of their powerful influence. The journey is generally performed in a large roomy coach, holding four persons inside, and two in the * The smallest silver coin current iu the Tuscan and Roman States, value about 5:Jd. VETTURINO TRAVELLING. 151 cabriolet, drawn by four horses or mules. The vct- turino provides travellers with beds at night, and their dinner, or more properly speaking, supper ; it being the evening meal, and seldom served up before eight o'clock* For all this the charge is commonly about two Roman scudi or dollars, equal to half a Louis-d'or a day. A certain ex- perience is required to make a good agreement with the vetturini, as they are apt to ask at first a great deal more than the regular charge. They have no fixed days of departure, but start as soon as they can fill their vehicle. If they are not punctual to their agreement, they forfeit a deposit of a few crowns, placed in the hands of the travel- ler when he engages his seat. They have their regular haunts ; and there is no inducing them to stop at any other places ; generally preferring vil- lages to large towns, where the charges are less, and where travellers suffer in proportion. The rate of travelling averages about 35 miles a day, as the horses go no faster than four miles an hour, and, when the road is up hill, at a snail's pace ; nor is it quite safe, in all parts of Italy, to travel either at a very early hour of the morn- ing, or late at night. It is not much more ex- pensive for three people to join in purchasing a post chaise, which may be found in almost every town, and may be afterwards sold with little loss. A pair of post-horses, in the Roman States, in- cluding the postillion, do not cost more than two paoli and a half, or somewhat more than a shil- ling a mile ; but if a rogue of a courier is engag- ed, he practises a general system of imposition, and is abetted by every innkeeper on the road. Yet 152 TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. notwithstanding its disagremens, I rather liked vetturino travelling, as it afforded so good an op- portunity of seeing the country. Besides, I was much amused with the scenes at the inns, and be- came acquainted with the humour and peculiarities of my fellow-passengers, who partook more of the character of ship, than of stage-coach acquaintances. Few modes of travelling can be imagined so eco- nomical. The whole expense scarcely exceeds what the living alone would cost at inns in Eng- land, without reckoning the charge for conveyance at all. Nothing particular occurred to excite our atten- tion during the first day ; and at sunset we arrived at a small village, the name of which 1 omitted to record. We had not travelled more than twenty-five miles, owing to the late hour at which we set off, and being retarded in passing the steep hills near Incisa, a part of the chain of the Apennines. An- other vettura had overtaken us on the road, in the cabriolet of which I observed Captain B., a friend of mine, and another young Englishman. On our arrival at this stage, our acquaintance with his fellow-travellers commenced under rather unfavourable circumstances. They consisted of an advocate from Bologna, and his family, who were proceeding to Rome in order to have one of their number inspected by the Spanish ambassador, previous to obtaining a commission in one of Fer- dinand's foreign regiments ; and, seeing the miser- able accommodations which the poor country inn where we were to sleep afforded, the Baron and myself secured a small room. I then called B to look after his own interest, which he did by pitch- CAMALDOLI-^ST ROMUALDO. 153 big upon the best in the house ; our own travel- ling companions took the third ; and the only one remaining for the advocate and his family was wretched enough, for it contained but two beds to accommodate four people, one of them a lady. The advocate having blustered very much at our want of gallantry, I availed myself of the only mode in my power to answer his appeal, by show- ing him the room we (the first arrived) had se- lected ; and then offering to give it up to the lady if my companion consented, but this offer was de- clined, owing to the indifferent appearance of our closet, which, though clean, was small. A toler- able supper, however, and a cheerful glass of light red wine, soon put the whole party in such good humour, that before we retired for the night, we got pretty well acquainted, and had come to a much better understanding. To avoid the heat, we were again on our jour- ney at an early hour the foUowng morning. As we approached the Apennines, I cast a longing eye in the direction of the famous Tuscan monasteries ; for it was my intention, had I prolonged my stay at Florence, to have visited the Cenobites, who dwell amid the deep recesses of these mountains. The Abbey of Camaldoli is situated in the midst of a vast solitude, about thirty miles east from Florence. It was founded in the 10th century by a romantic penitent (St Romualdo) on the Campo di Maldulo, who instituted it according to the rule of St Benedict ; but having seen his monks in a vision ascending by means of a ladder to heaven, and all clothed in white, he changed the colour of their habit accordingly from the black of the ori- 154 MILTON — VALLAMBROSA — AREZZO. ginal order. Nor to the English traveller is it the least interesting association, that these delightful retreats were the favourite haunt of Milton during his sojourn in Italy, and that, from the scenery of Camaldoli and Vallambrosa, the exquisite de- scription of Paradise, in the Fourth Book of his immortal poem, is said to have been derived. We stopped some time at Arezzo, remarkable for its antiquity and agreeable situation, at the foot of a gently swelling hill. It also claims the honour of being Petrarch's native place, his father having re- tired there when exiled from Florence. But the embryo poet was removed from it when only a few months old, and only visited it once for a few days in the course of his life. Few cities in Italy boast of more celebrated natives than Arezzo, amongst whom Guido Aretino, who lived in the eleventh century, though not the best known, is not the least deserving of being remembered, espe- cially in Italy, he having been the inventor of coun- terpoint, and consequently of the whole system of modern music. It is said that the monosyllables of the Solfeggio, ut, re, mi, fa, so, la, suggested themselves to his mind one evening during the vesper service ; but it is more than probable that he was merely the restorer of the true principle of the music of ancient Greece, with which he might Jiave become acquainted through sources which have escaped modern research. Machiavelli, so celebrated for his political writings and his history of Florence — Leonard Aretino, a distinguished his- torian of the 1 4th century — and more recently Pie- tro Aretino, the infamous satirist, * were also na- * Such is the influence of wit and poHticnl genius, that ARETINO — VASARI. 155 lives of Arezzo ; while, on ascending to her classic age, we find no less a character than Maecenas en- rolled among her sons. Vasari, a most prolific ar- tist, and an acute observer of men, who did more work than all the Tuscan painters of his time, was also born here. Vasari certainly was better entitled to the merit of expeditiousness, than to the more important one of delicacy of taste. Numberless palaces and churches bear undoubted proof of the superficial character of this manner- ist, who was more indebted to the ignorant weak- ness of Popes and Princes, for the facility with which they allowed him to overwhelm their do- minions with " a deluge of mediocrity, executed with a shameless rapidity, " than to the intrinsic merit of his works. The labours of Vasari's pen, however, in his " Lives of the Painters, " are now more esteemed than the productions of his pencil. In modern times Arezzo has also produced Syricci, although an imitator of Alfieri, an admirable young poet, and well known for his impromptu compo- sitions. Proceeding onwards, we passed several villages, and were struck with the beauty of the villas, with Pietro Aretino was honoured, feared, and caressed by the greatest men of the age in which he lived. Even Leo X., Charles V., and Francis the First, did not disdain to re- ceive his flattery and patronise his works, though these owed their chief success to their gross licentiousness, and the bitterness of their satire. It has been related, that while one of the friends of this depraved author was disclos- ing some scandalous anecdote regarding his sisters, who led a most dissolute life at Venice, he was so much amus- ed at the account of their gallantry, that he fell off his chair in an immoderate fit of laughter, struck his head on the pavement, and expired on the spot. 156 RURAL OBJB>CTS — THRASIMENE. their columns and arcades, which seem to form the general style of rural architecture in Tuscany ; and on every side we beheld mountains planted with oaks, chestnut and olive trees, until we came to the fertile and smiling valley of Chiana. Though this road is not so much frequented as that of Sienna, and those of the north of Italy, we lacked not both attractive and amusing objects — fine English carriages, with jaded hacks, by way of post-horses ; old caleches, containing Italian families, jogging along in a manner that betrayed their economical habits ; monks on foot, or mounted on sorry mules ; labourers driving their oxen-carts, and nice-look- ing country girls in black hats and feathers, or straw-bonnets of their own manufacture, were all passing in rapid succession ; and nowhere did I perceive any signs of that squalid poverty, misery or disease, which pains the heart, and shocks the eye. The bright rays of the declining sun still shone upon our path, when we descried the lake of Thrasi- mene, the scene of Hannibars victory over the Con- sul Flaminius. It was too late in the evening when we reached this spot, for us to behold much of its beautiful and interesting attractions; but indeed, the view we had next morning from Perugia of the field of battle, is much more commanding and ex- tensive than that from the banks of Thrasimenus (now called the Lake of Perugia), where it was fought. This memorable event is familiar to every one, from the descriptions of Polybius and Livy, to whose pages I refer the reader. We were here detained fully an hour at the Pontifical custom- house, and underwent a very rigid search. COUNTRY INN. 157 The Italian Count had a great many books, the value of which he was here obliged to deposit ; and was also compelled to have them put into a sealed packet, directed to the proper department at Rome, where his money, he was told, would be re- turned to him, on the books being received and ex- amined by the Censors and Inquisitors. Nothing is so strictly prohibited in the States of the Church, as religious or philosophical works, particularly of the French school. A scramble, similar to that of the previous night, again took place, when we saw the wretched ac- commodation of the inn at Passignano, where se- veral carriages had arrived before us ; but here the poor Count fared worst, for he had only a single mattress laid down for his use in the corri- dor. While we were at supper, an English family arrived ; but how or where they were accommodate ed, I cannot imagine. We now summoned our vetturino, and insisted that he should . take us in future to large towns every night, which he pro- mised to do, and faithfully kept his word, know- ing that his buona mano (a crown or two for him- self) would have been forfeited had he failed in his engagement. I have already mentioned, that a sleeping apart- ment to one's self is a luxury seldom met with on this side the Alps. The Baron and I got accom- modated in a double-bedded room, but the absence of a mirror proved a source of some amusement. Having desired the cameriere (a raw, stupid- looking lad) to procure one for us that I might shave — " Non ce, Signore, " (There is none), was his reply ; so as I had occasionally managed the in- 158 TUSCAN CAMERIERE. dispensable operation without a reflector, and was already lathered, I began to use my razor, stand- ing opposite to a circle which my companion had described with his pencil on the wall. In the mean time, the cameriere had returned with a towel, and to his horror and dismay saw me ope- rating on my chin with as much apparent facility as if I had been placed before a looking-glass. The Baron, seeing him stare wildly, and wishing to carry on the joke, told him I was an English sor- cerer, which the poor hooby must have believed, for he made his escape as fast as he could down stairs, devoutly making the sign of the cross, and muttering, as he disappeared — Mago ! Gesu Ma- ria ! die cattiva gente sono iforestieri ! " (What a bad set those foreigners are ! ) and nothing after- wards could induce the fellow to carry my port- manteau to the carriage, or even to touch it. Nay, he gave a more convincing proof of his reluctance to come in contact with me, as he failed to apply for his customary perquisite. Having no inducement to prolong our stay at such quarters, by four o'clock in the morning we were seated in the vettura, to the cameriere's great delight, who wished us a buon viaggio with all his heart, sincerely praying, I suppose, never to see my face again. After a pleasant drive along the banks of the lake, we reached Perugia about nine oVlock, in time for breakfast. During five hours which we spent here, we had an opportunity of examining the ancient walls, which surprised and interested me no less than those of Cortona, which we had visited the day before. Some of these walks are still very high, and in excellent preservation. They aie I PERUGIA ETRUSCAN RUIJSTS. 159 built of huge polyhsedric uncemented blocks of stone, belonging to the rude Cyclopic or Tyrin- thian style, specimens of which may be still found at Orvieto and Viterbo. Remains of these Etrus- can walls have also been discovered at Volterra, Fiesole, and other parts of ancient Etruria. These blocks are generally of different sizes, and often indented, or dove-tailed, into each other, forming such solid masses of masonry, that they have been capable of resisting the tear and wear of more than twenty-five centuries. Many of the Etruscan vases, medals, and household utensils, which have been dug from the ruins of those ancient cities, are ex- hibited in one of the cabinets of the Florentine gallery, and are most precious relics in the eyes of the archaeologist and the antiquarian, having be- longed to the most ancient people in Europe, the Etrurians, said to have been originally Lydians, who left Asia to colonize this province. There are several fine streets in Fenigia, parti- cularly a very broad one in front of the cathedral terminated by an old fountain, which is ornament- ed with statues. But, in general, they are narrow and irregular, and many of the palaces and con- vents in the place are falling to ruin. It would be tiresome to mention the number of its churches containing pictures, which are chiefly by Pietro Vannucci, Raphael's master, better known by the name of il Perugino. Of the works we saw, Gesu of Vignola's architecture was the most curiouF. It is constructed of four stories, only one of which appears above ground, the other three being sub- terranean. At San Lorenzo, (the cathedral), there is a marriage of the Virgin by Perugino, in his 160 PAINTINGS — ST FRANCIS. Stiff, antiquated manner ; also, a Madonna by Luca Signorelli. But the famous Baroccio — a painter who endeavoured to unite the design of Raphael with the colouring of Corregio — has been re- moved, and a copy sent to replace it. In the mo- nastery of the Benedictines, there are some of Raphael's earliest productions, several of Perugi- no's best works, and two good specimens of the Bolognese school, by Albano. We next stopped at the village of Madonna degli Angeli, at the foot of the hill of Assisi, in the midst of an agreeable and picturesque country, where I saw the most appropriate memorial of St Francis, the humble cottage in which he once re- sided. It is now converted into a chapel, over which Palladio has reared an elegant church. This saint dedicated his life to piety, meditation, and penance, trusting, by his exemplary conduct, to obtain the favour of Heaven. He is accused of having encouraged some pious frauds, such as the Seraphic vision ; but though he carried his en- thusiasm to a pitch of extravagance, he ought not to be blamed for all that is attributed to him. He was a zealous good man, and the cham- pion of reform, at a period when " the Church triumphant " needed it the most. His followers professed poverty, obedience, and self-denial, in imitation of the apostles, whose lives they were enjoined to consider as their model. An order, professing such principles, and holding out no earthly inducements for wealthy, indolent, or haugh- ty churchmen, has increased since that period (the 13th century) to upwards of 100,000 membere, occupying 6000 convents in different parts of Eu- FRIARS — NUNS. 161 rope and America. To it, the church is indebted for some learned men, amongst whom were fifty Cardinals and five Popes, including the celebrated Sextus Quintus, and the no less upright and re- nowned Ganganelli (Clement XIV.) Santa Clara, the contemporary of St Francis, also a native of Assisi, instituted an order for women of the same i*ule, since called Poor Clares, or the second order. A third has likewise been instituted, for persons of both sexes, married or single, living in the world, but united by certain rules and exer- cises of piety, compatible with a secular state, though not bound by any vow or precept. The most meritorious votaries of St Francis are the Soeurs Grises of Flanders, and the Soeurs de la Charite of France, who make vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, devoting themselves to the service of the sick in hospitals, and, to use the powerful language of a French author, " Qui pour soulager le malheur seul connaisent la tendresse, Et au besoin du veiel-age immolent leur jeunesse." * They make a voluntary sacrifice of their youth, beauty, and time, to comfort and attend upon their unfortunate fellow-creatures, in those mi- serable abodes of disease and pain, the sight of which cannot but be revolting to their sex. The brothers of the Order employ their whole time in attending lunatics and sick persons. Every one who has visited hospitals in Catholic countries, ♦ " Who only feel happy while alleviating misfortune, and to the wants of old age sacrifice their youth, " n2 162 TACT OF NAPOLEON — CLITUMNUS. must have observed those philanthropic nuns and brothers exercising their active Christian duties ; and have felt how much humanity is indebted to those benevolent individuals, who pass their lives in the constant practice of administering to the wants, and comforting the distresses, of their fellow men. It is here worthy of remark, that the Soeurs de la Charite alone, of all the monastic orders, were not dissolved under the late Imperial government, and that, in every hospital, they were to be seen in active attendance upon the sick and wounded French soldiery. No one could better distinguish the " principle of utility " than Napoleon. It was so late when we got to Foligno, that we were unable to judge of any thing but the inn, which is one of the best in Romagna ; and the ex- cellent Aleatico wine we drank there, inspired us with a very favourable opinion of the neighbour- ing vineyards. No traveller ought to omit visit- ing the fountain of fabulous virtue, and the beau- tiful little Corinthian temple of Clitumnus, near the Flaminian Way, which, independently of its supposed classic antiquity, has a peculiar claim to the attention of Englishmen, from the circumstance of its having been celebrated in prose and verse by Addison and Byron. This fane " of small and de- licate proportion, " consists of a basement almost covered by the " mild declivity " of the sloping hill, and of a superstructure, having a facade orna- mented with four columns. Of these, two are twisted in spiral fluting — the others are rather pi- lasters than columns, with barbarous imitations of Corinthian members. Therefore, although the scenery around be delightful, the site happily SrOLETO — LA SOMMA. 163 chosen, and the general effect of the little temple itself exceedingly graceful, great doubts may be entertained of the classical antiquity of its ori- gin. Spoleto, the next considerable town we reached, has few remains of that ancient mag- nificence which it displayed when it contained the Court of the Gothic King Theodoric. The ruins of the Temple of Concord are now convert- ed into a convent. I was amused with the answer of our cicerone to an inquiry of one of the Ger- man artists, " Of what order are those marble columns? " — " Ifrati sono dellordine di San A' gostino ! " * said the Italian, with much simplicity, mistaking the question as referring to the order of monks, instead of that of the architecture of some mutilated shafts in the church. An ugly old arch, called the Gate of Hannibal, is preserved, to com- memomte the repulse which the Carthaginian ge- neral is said to have sustained after the disastrous battle of Thrasimenus ; this ruin, however, evident- ly belongs to the arts of the middle ages. Spoleto being the birthplace of the present Pontiff, Leo XII,, he has ordered a gate to be constructed at the lower entrance to the town, which will form a splendid contrast to the other ruined arch of so doubtful an origin. The mountain La Somma begins a few miles from the town of Spoleto. It is one of the highest points of the Apennines, and derives its name from a temple erected upon it to Jupiter- Summanus. We took several hours to reach the summit, which we gained by a steep ascent pretty * " The monks are of the order of St Augustine, " 164 TEtlNI — ITS CASCADK. well wooded. The sun was hid, and masses of clouds were mailing over the rude rocks, which sur- rounded us like mists that rise at dayhreak from the valleys. The occasional glimpses which we had of huge blocks of schistose rocks, and the crests of mountains, presented a chaos which could scarcely be said to appertain to any specific element. But at other times our view was completely obstruct- ed. After descending the western declivity, we travelled for some time through avenues of trees, till we reached Terni, the birth-place of Tacitus, which is situated in a charming valley, between two branches of the river Nera. Without stopping to admire either the ruins of its ancient temples and amphitheatres, or its handsome modern buildings, we immediately hired a carriage and post-horses, to view the celebrated cascade. The drive from Terni up to the village, and from thence to the waterfal, must be recollected with pleasure by all who have ever visited such romantic scenery. In less than two hours we got to the canal, which was cut out of the solid rock by M. Curius Dentatus, the conqueror of Pyrrhus, to preserve the valley of Ilieti (the country of the ancient Sabines) from occasional inundation, by thus giving vent to the waters of the Lake of Luco, which often overflowed its banks. The Velino rushes into the Nera, and forms the far- famed " Cascata del Marmore. " Few places, even in Italy, are more romantic and picturesque than the cascade of Terni. It is, however, neither the quantity of water nor the height of its fall which constitute its sublimity — but, like every cataract, it must be seen to be ap- byron's description. 165 preciated ; for what description can possibly con- vey an adequate idea of a scene considered one of the finest in Europe ? Byron has probably ap- proached the nearest to reality ; and although his description must be familiar to my readers, I can- not resist the impulse of engrafting it into my sketches : « The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; The fall of waters ! rapid as the light The flashing mass foams, shaking the abyss ; The hell of waters ! where they howl, and hiss. And boil, in endless torture : while the sweat Of their great agony, wrung out from this Their Phlegethon, curls round the rocks of jet That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set. And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again Returns in an unceasing shower, which round. With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain. Is an eternal April to the ground. Making it all one emerald : — how profound The gulf! and how the giant element From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound. Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent To the broad column which rolls on, and shows More like the fountain of an infant sea Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes Of a new world, than only thus to be Parent of rivers, which flow gushingly, 166 NARNI — THE APENNINES. With many windings, through the vale : — look back 1 Lo ! where it comes like an eternity. As if to sweep down all things in its track, Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, Horribly beautiful ! " The best view of the fall is decidedly to be had from below, in the valley of the Nera, where the tumult of waters are seen descending with infinite grace and velocity, forming three dif- ferent cascades, every one more lovely than the other. We were fortunately in time to observe the last rays of the setting sun on the waters, equal- ling in brilliancy and variety of tint the celestial Iris. We afterwards beheld it from a temple, built on a promontory for that purpose, on the upper banks. Abundance of wild flowers grow luxuriantly on all sides ; but trees do not flourish well, owing to their proximity to the spray which rises from the cascade. We passed a couple of hours in strolling about, — here a most delightful occupation, — enjoy- ing at every step new points of view, amidst a scene like an enchanted wilderness, with wood, water, and mountain, in the wildest and most pic- turesque combination of uncultivated nature. We set off at an early hour next morning, and soon after reached Narni, a small town wliich pre- sented nothing remarkable, except the ruins of a magnificent bridge, said to have been construct- ed during the reign of Augustus. A couple of leagues beyond Nanii, being the last link of their lengthened chain, we bade farewell to the Apennines. While descending amid the inequalities of the ground, so thickly covered BANDITTI — THE TYBER — TRIGLIA. 167 with wood, it was difficult not to imagine our- selves in the depths of a forest ; the road winding by deep ravines, by sudden and abrupt heights, with rocks and chasms in varied shapes, present- ing wild, yet highly picturesque scenery. On our way we met an escort of carabineers conducting seven banditti, who, we were told, had lately com- mitted several robberies in the neighbourhood ; and a more appropriate spot than that where we were, could not be selected for such a purpose. As they were coming from Rome, they had probably been ah'eady tried and condemned to the galleys, or to work on the fortifications of Ancona, the place of their destination. Next morning we crossed the Tyber, over a fine three-arched bridge of Roman construction, which was repaired by Sextus Quintus. It divides Um- bria from Sabina, into which we now entered. A great part of this day we had walked amidst beauti- ful olive-groves ; but as we advanced further, vine- yards appeared, and the soil, fertile and well cul- tivated, abounded in corn. At the frightful abyss of Triglia, we passed another bridge of amazing height, built over a tremendous ravine. A dreadful storm, accompa- nied with thunder and lightning, succeeded by heavy rain, which lasted more than two hours, compelled us to take shelter at Civita Castellana ; and when the weather cleared up towards even- ing, it was too late to go any further. We there- fore ordered supper and beds, both of which were infinitely better than could have been expected, as accommodation was to be provided for upwards of thirty people who sat down together. 168 CIVITA CASTELLANA — BACCANO. There is every reason to suppose, that Civita Castellana, was not Falerium, which some writers insist on fixing here, but the ancient city of Veii, which, even at an advanced period of Roman his- tory, like a second Troy, sustained a ten years siege, before sun-endering to Camillus. Its situation on a rock, the locality and other corroborative circum- stances, agree with the accounts given of it by Ro- man historians ; although it is pretended, on the faith of an inscription lately discovered, that Veil stood on the Cassian Way, about two miles from Isola Farnese. The town contains a handsome square and fountain ; also a few churches scarcely worth seeing ; but its bridge, citadel, and several remains of ancient architecture, are curious and interesting. We availed ourselves of a serene blue sky which followed the storm, to view the pictur- esque neighbourhood of this romantic and beauti- ful town, which has not only an air of antiquity, but stupendous natural scenery to recommend it. Although impatient in the afternoon of the fol- lowing day, to reach the ancient capital of the Christian world, we were compelled to stop at the indifferent inn of Baccano, where the fare was bad and the people uncivil ; but our horses requir- ed to be attended to. Attached to this inn, a solitary house on the dreary Campagna, where the effects of the malaria are easily seen and severely felt, there is a small chapel ; and, as it was Sunday, an old Greek bishop offered his services to celebrate mass; but the ceremony was so long, I did not stay till the end of it, having received a summons to partake of an omelette and mutton chop. As we advanced towards Rome, we perceived THE CAMPAGNA. 169 Tery few trees ; but at intei-vals the ruins of tombs and aqueducts, which may now be said to com- pose a soil mingled with the wreck of empires. No rich crops are to be seen in this wild region ; there is nothing but barren herbage, or, occasionally, rank grass, under which some traces of ancient culture are yet perceptible. No villages, few la- bourers, no herds of cattle, or even flocks of birds, can be found in the midst of the general desolation. Some dilapidated and uninhabited farm-houses ap- pear, alike deserted by proprietors and peasants ; and the absence of all signs of life make this the very abode of gloom, as if no one had ventured to possess themselves of a territory once cultivated by the masters of the world. The mind is apt to be misled by first and erroneous impressions, in such a spot as the Campagna. « The fields of freedom, faction, fame and blood, Here a proud people's passions were exhal'd, From the first hour of empire in the bud, To that where further worlds to conquer faiPd. " At a short distance from Baccano, on the summit of a hill, " Ecco ! " the all-important " Ecco," was repeated by many voices, when we descried the cupola of St Peter's, the gorgeous diadem of Pon- tifical Rome, the plain of Latium, and the distant windings of the Tyber ; but I could not look on the scene without much emotion. As we gradually dis- covered new objects of admiration, our enthusiasm reached the highest pitch, expecting in a few hours to be within the Eternal City, the wonder of all mo- dern travellers. Even our horses and their driver seemed to have acquired fresh vigour, the nearer they approached towards their destination. On o 170 PONTE MOLLE — ROME. passing the tower of the Ponte Molle (Pons Mil- vius), the scene of Constan tine's victory over Maxentius, which was also that of Christianity over Paganism, we again crossed the Tyber, and rolled along the rough pavement, passing some churches, casinos, and an albergo ; the churches being small, and chiefly built over the cites of reported mira- cles. The features of the approach to Rome are on a grander scale, and more interesting, than the immediate vicinity of either London or Paris; and we had ample compensation for the want of the prim, spruce-looking houses, and their small grass-plots, with neatly cut box- walks, flanked by crocusses and tulips, of the former ; or the high dead walls, and formal avenues, of the lat- ter. At the gates, a phalanx of papal soldiers and customhouse-ofiicers impeded our progress ; and although we exhibited a " lascia passare, " * provided by the most experienced traveller of our party, the preliminary ceremony of examination and registration occupied nearly an hour; for his Holiness's scribes were not very familiar with Eng- lish and German names, and required some as- sistance in their orthography. However, the ex- amination of the Porta del Popolo made up for the inevitable delay to which we submitted. The pro- portions of this work are harmonious and well con- ducted. The details have probably less merit than might be expected from the architecture of Michael Angelo and Bermini ; but its appearance altogether is not unworthy of the grand entrance of Nor- thern Europe to its ancient capital. ♦ A separate passport, certifying the correctness of the usual travelling credentials. PORTA BEL POPOLO. 171 The first church seen on the left hand, la Ma- donna del Popolo, does honour to Buonarotti's design, and was executed by Vignola. The Piaz- za, which is of a triangular form, presents an ap- pearance similar to that of the permanent scenes of Olympic theatres. Two twin churches divide the streets, three of which branch off from an Egyptian obelisk, their common centre ; and from the Porta del Popolo they have an admirable ef- fect. One of these streets is the Corso, the Bond- Street of Rome, with its palazzos and equipages, rivalling the Piazza di Spagna, as the great resort of the English. The Piazza del Popolo was then undergoing some alterations, to prepare it for the accustomed inundations of the Sunday evenings — a favourite Roman summer amusement. Designs for the embellishment of this square were furnish- ed by Harrison, an English architect, who is still alive, I believe, though very far advanced in years. He was in Rome during the pontificate of the il- lustrious Ganganelli, * from whom he had the ho- nour of receiving a gold medal on his election as a member of the Academy of St Luke. Doganieri were appointed to escort us either to the customhouse, or our hotel. We preferred the former, and, while our baggage was undergoing a still more rigorous examination, we spent half an hour agreeably, in examining its facade and fine fluted Corinthian columns, which support an archi- trave, frieze, and cornice, of Grecian marble — part of the open portico of a temple erected to Anto- ♦ Clement XIV., so well known in this country by his admirable Letters, and throughout Europe by his suppres- sion of the Jesuits. 172 Damon's hotel. ninus Pius, I was so much pleased with the appearance of Monsieur Damon's hotel in Via della Croce, and besides having been particularly recommended to go there, that I was induced, as well as my English fellow-travellers, to engage apartments in it ; and I had every reason to be pleased with the accommodation during my stay in Rome. CHAPTER Vll. ROME. October 21th. — The morning after our arrival a consultation was held, in order to decide on the best mode of employing our time during the day. One voted for St Peter's — the Forum Romanum — the Pantheon ; another handed us over to the care of our Guide-books ; while a third would call in the assistance of a regular cicerone, generally con- sidered the most essential personage in the suite of an English traveller in Italy. Finally, how- ever, we came to the resolution not only of dis- pensing with the services of the last important appendage, but even of Cavaliers Nibby and Vasi, and Mrs Marianne Starke, convinced that no small part of the pleasure of exploring those clas- sic ruins must consist in finding them out, guided merely by our own recollections, and by Nardini's Roma Anticha. The discovery of remarkable places, sacred and profane, thus becomes infinitely more interesting than when we are indebted to the constant prompting of some parrot-like attend- ant, who, in his peculiarly tiresome and mono- tonous strain, injures the effect of the grandest ob- o 2 174 PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. jects by such interruptions as these : " Ecco, Sig- nore ! questo e il Tempio della Pace. " " Vedi ! r Arco Tito. " * Throwing aside, therefore, every other incumbrance but a plan of the city, we sallied forth, resolving to commence our researches every morning at nine o'clock, and to take full scope till five, which we decided should be our regular era di pranzo. f By adhering to this plan during my stay, I accomplished a great deal in one month, devoting my evenings to public amusements, and such society as my introductions procured me. We felt delighted with the novelty of the scene, at so charming a season of the year. The refresh- ing and enlivening tramontana of October, with an effulgent blue sky, and the satisfaction which every one experiences when just arrived at a new place, and that place Rome, had produced an extraor- dinary degree of excitement. Hurrying over break- fest, we soon found ourselves in the Piazza di Spagna, the principal square in Rome, which is adorned with the fountain of la Barcaccia, and sup- plied from the unrivalled Aqua Vergine, and which has lost nothing of its original purity. This foun- tain, as its name imports f is in the form of a boat, and spouts water like a Triton. It was executed by the elder Bernini, and had sufficient attraction to detain us for a short time from the summit of the steps opposite to it, which we soon after ascended, thinking we could not commence our rambles bet- ter than by taking, from the Monte Pincio, a ge- ♦ *< See, Sir! that is the Temple of Peace. " « Ob- serve ! this is the Arch of Titus." -j- Dinner-time. \ Fountain of the Bark. MONTE PINCIO. 175 neral new of the grand theatre of our projected visits. Beginniog with the spot ou which we stood, the Obelisk, one of the many Egyptian monuments of art rescued from oblivion, * terminates and crowns what might have been one of the noblest flights of stairs in Italy, for the steps are ample, with an ex- tensive sweep ; but the whole is too frequently subdivided by landing-places, or little squares, sur- rounded by balustrades. There are so many breaks and other incongruities apparent, that the general effect is entirely destroyed. The church of Tri- nita del Monte, and the adjoining convent of San Vicenzio di Paula, are perched on the Monte Pin- cio, and look pretty well at a distance ; but, on a closer inspection, their architecture is discovered to have too much of the modern Italian style, and, what is worse, the buildings are gaudy and white- washed. Modem Rome recalls in the most vivid and impressive manner all the earlier and more last- ing associations connected with our school -days or subsequent studies. Every ancient name we hear is quite familiar to us ; the shattered porticos, broken arches of bridges and aqueducts, fallen columns, crumbling walls of overthrown temples, mutilated triumphal arches and massive ruins, in- termingled with some of the most splendid edifices in Europe — all furnish subjects of the most intense interest. Seating ourselves under the trees in the delightful avenue in front of the Villa Medici, at * It had been found in the Circus of Salluet, and was erected on this spot by Pius VI. 176 VILLA MEDICL present, and ever since the reign of Louis XIV*, the French academy, we admired the grandeur of the surrounding scene. Although Bome in some respects now resemhles other cities, it still pre- serves a peculiarity of character ; for where else can be found a similar mixture of magnificent modern architecture with crumbling but classic ruins — from its chaste and elegant Pantheon to its Gothic walls, or from the Egyptian spoils it possesses to the su- blime cupola erected by Buonarotti, on a structure which eclipses all that modern art has achieved ? What a contrast do the frail memorials of our times present to the immortal structures of the Greeks and Romans ! And how unsubstantial is the present state of the arts, when compared with the dignity and stability of their grand edifices, which seem of an almost indestructible nature ! It is impossible to behold the awful grandeur of the venerable piles which the genius of Repub- lican and Imperial Rome has left us, without having our feelings deeply interested by their un- fading enchantments ! If the temples, odeons, and theatres of Greece, were in better taste than the public edifices of Rome, the latter were more nu- merous, costly, and colossal. They abounded all over the empire, even in the provincial towns and colonies ; while the capital itself was literally stud- ded with temples, baths, amphitheatres, aqueducts, circi, basilicse, and curise ; either built at the ex- pense of her emperors, or of private wealthy citi- zens, or carried from conquered kingdoms by her victorious generals. There aie now very few remains left of the re- ANCIENT HOME. 177 ticular work * of the Republic ; but it appears that the Roman character, in point of taste, was then inferior to their wealth and vanity. Oratory and the sword, eloquence and the art of war, were their only acquirements, being the easiest steps to power and greatness. No country in Europe has experienced greater vicissitudes than Italy, once the mistress of the world. By the encroachment of barbarous nations, she lost the greater part of her territories ; and the remainder was split into a va- riety of governments, which have now few vestiges of Roman power or grandeur. She thus presents, at every step, noble stnictui-es, ruined by the merci- less soldiers of Alaric and Genseric, who, however, unlike the reformers of modern times, waged war oa the inhabitants, and theii' magnificent civic edi- fices, but spared the temples of God. Yet even amidst the wreck of empires, it is still evident that the Eternal City owes its most lasting celebrity to architecture. Fields and vineyards now occupy part of the space within the walls. Rome is yet grand in its decay ; and every impartial observer must allow, that its Pontiffs, from the middle ages to the pre- sent day, have done much to restore the arts. Mo- dem Rome has benefited by their exertions, almost as much as ancient Rome suffered from the inva- sions, conflagrations, and destruction of Gauls and Goths ; and infinitely more than from the boasted exertions of recent invaders. The modem Gauls vaunt their patronage of the arts, when in posses- * A mode of building in brick, by laying them not on their faces, but on their angles, so that each brick present- ed a diamond shape to the eye. 1T8 ROMAN WOMEN — AQUEDUCTS. eion of the defenceless States of the Church. They certainly caused a few pillars and statues to be dug out of the ruins of temples, and made some exca- vations, in search of more rare objects of plunder. They even removed Pompey's statue from the Palazzo Spada, at the expense of an arm during its transit, to the Coliseum, in order to get up the tragedy of Julius Caesar for the amusement of the ruffian Republican soldiers. They also gutted the Vatican, the Capitol, and many private palaces of their finest pictures and statues, to enrich the Louvre; but they omit to mention having destroyed Daniel di Volterra's fresco of the Descent from the Cross, in the Church of la Trinita del Monte, which was one of the three finest pictures in the world. Nothing strikes a stranger more powerfully than the beauty of the Roman females ; and, when gazing on their faces and forms, of such transcendent loveliness, reminded of the Lucretias and Virginias of ancient Rome, we are apt to exclaim, that such were the women whose beauty caused Tarquin to be driven from his kingdom, and Appius to rot in prison ! Among the many noble works of the Romans, their Aqueducts for supplying the city with water, brought from the neiglibouring and even distant mountains, over a space, in some instances, of fifty miles, were the most substantially useful and ornamental. Some authors have reckoned four- teen aqueducts ; but Frontinus, an excellent au- thority, only treats of nine, which existed during the reign of Trajan. It is imagined that the Ro- mans were then ignorant of the well-known prin- ciple of hydraulics, that water finds its level. But SANTA MARIA MAGIORE. 179 there is a passage in Pliny,* quoted by Dr Adam, which seems to indicate that they were not una- ware of the circumstance. To other causes, there- fore, must be attributed their not acting upon it. The exuberance of water became the pest of Italy during the wars of the middle ages, when whole regions were depopulated, and became de- sert wastes and marshes. Subsequently, splendid fountains were erected in Rome, supplied by Aqua Felice, and Aqua Vergine, which latter re- freshes the Piazza Novona, where there is a mag- nificent fountain, surmounted by an obelisk, and ornamented by emblematic colossal statues of the four principal rivers in the world. As a substitute for the naumachia, the modern Romans amuse themselves in this square on Sunday evenings in August, with a favourite pastime, which consists in merely inundating the street by means of the fountain, and then driving through it in their car- riages ! The first church I entered in Rome •was the magnificent structure dedicated to Santa Maria Maggiore. It requires minute attention to ex- amine its splendid Corinthian- fluted column of Pa- rian marble, its obelisk of Egyptian granite, its thirty-six Ionic columns of Grecian marble, taken from the temple of Juno, its four noble pillars of Oriental granite, and its sumptuous high altar, which was formerly an ancient porphyry sarcopha- gus. I did not much admire the gaudy-looking ♦ " Aqua in vel e plumbo subit altitudinem exortus sui, " <* Water flows, in or out of lead, to the height of its source." The passage is quoted differently by Facciolati, and admits of a doubtful interpretation. 180 ST luke's portraits. roof, which is too low in proportion to the dimen- sions of the church, A vast quantity of gold was employed in gilding it, and being the first quantity of that metal brought from Peru, the workmanship has been rather overdone. Sextus Quintus's chapel, ornamented in a style somewhat fantastic, was built after the design of Fontana, the celebrated pro- tege of this Pontiff, who performed the Herculean labour of removing several obelisks by means of some very ingenious machinery which he con- trived. * This church contains several pictures by Guido TAgarda and Delia Porta ; also one of the Virgin by St Luke 1 who, it seems, was not only a skilful physician, but also a highly gifted painter. Seven portraits of the Virgin are preserved in differ- ent parts of Italy, said to be the work of the Evan- gelist's inspired pencil. Of these, we are told, this is one ; but even Catholics, who are understood to be endowed with pretty strong faith, do not all be- lieve implicitly in this tradition; nor is it necessary,! presume, that they should, as many of them have too much taste not to prefer a Madonna of Raphael as a work of art, leaving devotion out of the question, to the daubs attributed to a scriptural authority; for, viewing both as artists, there can be no compari- son between the saint and sinner. All these alleged portraits of the Virgin, however, are evidently an- cient, and in all probability were executed by the early Greek painters, who were so numerous in • Fontano's Book on this subject, Transporto delV Obe- lisco Vaticano, ^c. is very interesting ; and some idea of the diflSculty of the undertaking may be formed from the fact, that the wood alone for the frame-work, on one occa- sion, cost 3000 Roman crowns, equal to GOO/. Sterling. ST PETER'S. 181 Italy during the 12th, IStli, and part of the 14th centuries. The construction of this edifice is ill adapted for viewing pictures to advantage, being much too dark. It presents, however, a rich and fine example of the most perfect ancient Basilicae. But I do not agree with those who reckon it, with its many splendid modern embellishments, the fin- est model of a Christian church. I consider it rather as a memorable instance of the effect of admirable architecture spoilt by the love of finery. The first objects which present themselves to the view, on approaching the finest church in the world (Limina Apostolorum), are "the columns of the cir- cular portico or peristyle, the Egyptian obelisk, and the two splendid fountains which adorn the magnificent square in front of St Peter's. Much consideration is requisite to enable one to appre- ciate fully the beauty or rather sublimity of this edifice. I could not conceive the gi-andeur and vast extent of the front, until 1 got close to the pillars, when, from a comparison between their real and fancied circumference, I was enabled to ascertain more correctly the magnitude of the whole. The details being in such just proportion, they are calculated to deceive the eye by their di- minished appearance, when seen at some distance. The has reliefs and the equestrian statues of the two founders of the temporal power of the Pope, Constantino and Charlemagne, under the grand portico, next attracted my attention. The original church of the Vatican was built by the Emperor Constantine, and dedicated to St Peter, on the spot — the site of the temple of Apollo — where the Apostle suffered martyrdom, and is said to have p 182 ST Peter's. been buried. Having fallen to decay, it was re- built by the Pontiffs of the 16th century, when Julius the II., Leo X., and Sextus V. employed suc- cessively the most celebrated architects, painters, and sculptors of the age, to furnish designs, and to superintend the accomplishment of this great work. Bramante and some of his successors, who commenced the edifice, scattered it into an infinity of jarring parts. Though improvements were con- templated by Raphael, it was Michael Angelo who concentrated the complex fabric, and gave it an air of magnificent simplicity. He suspended that masterpiece of architecture, the cupola ; and the structure, as it now stands, is therefore chiefly of his planning, though finished by Bernini many years after. Paul V. (Borghese) had the ho- nour of completing this admirable church more than a century after its foundation was laid. When I speak of St Peter's being completed, I mean, of course, its being brought to its present state ; for, internally, it is still far from being finished. The changes referred to in its early history, chiefly re- spect the general design, whether that should be in the form of a Latin or Greek cross. Bramante, the original architect, adopted the former ; Michael Angelo the latter. Maderno again reverted to the ancient plan, which was finally adhered to. The question, however, is still undecided, which would have produced the nobler effect. Churches in Catholic countries are constantly open from morning till night every day in the year. There is no distinction of ranks, every body being freely admitted ; so that rich and poor, the prince and the peasant, the elegant lady and SAN GIO. LATERAN. 188 her humble menial, kneel side by side, profes- sing the same creed, and worshipping the same God. On raising the heavy curtain, which, as in every Roman church, is suspended across the doorway, to feast my eyes with the magnificence of the interior, my sensations were of the most intense description. The mind, however, is not bewildered in the contemplation of this tri- umph of modern art, and of the many grand and sublime objects which it contains. Such is the harmony of their proportions to the sti'ucture itself, that their gigantic size is for the moment forgotten ; and it is only after examining them mi- nutely, that one recovers from the first astonish- ment which their appalling grandeur excites. It would be absurd to attempt a detail on paper of half what I admired during the many visits I paid to St Peter's. There were, indeed, few days on which I failed to direct my steps towards it. I once ascended to the top — a town in itself — with houses and workshops of all descriptions, in which many persons are always employed to keep the fa- bric in a perfect state of repair. The view from the summit of the cupola appears one of ideal beauty, possessing a charm almost beyond nature. We next visited St John Lateran, the first Chris- tian place of worship which was built in Rome by Constantine, and which has therefore the de- signation of " Mater Ecclesiarum. " ^ It was erected upon the site, and with part of the mate- rials of the palace of Plautius Lateranus, a senator, * Mother of Churches. The inscription, however, is *' Ecclesia verbis, et orbis mater et caput,'* i. e» Church of the city, mother and capital of the world. 184 THE CORSINI CHAPEL, who being concerned in Seneca's conspiracy, waa put to death by Nero. I have incidentally men- tioned this circumstance, though I do not profess to be an etymologist, as accounts of the origin of names so often differ. This edifice is said to have been one of the ancient Basilicae, or halls of justice — a surmise which does not agree with the origin attributed to it by other authors. It is well known that as these halls were found much better adapted to the Christian mode of worship, from their size and shape, than the Heathen temples, which were in general too small and ill calculated for the forms of the new faith, some of them were purified and converted into churches, retaining their ancient names Basilicae ; and it is said that this was one of those, and afterwards dedicated to St J(^m. Borro* mini rebuilt it in modern times, in a very different style of architecture. It contains statues of the apostles by Rusconi, La Gros and others, being the last great work in sculpture during its decline in the 18th century ; and these are much ad- mired, as well as its magnificent columns of verd antique, oriental granite, and bronze, of astonish- ing magnitude and incalculable value. The Corsini chapel is a perfect hijou^ with re* gard not only to its proportions, but to the display of marble, mosaic ; and, above all, the porphyry sarcophagus, now the tomb of Pope Clement the Twelfth, one of the Corsini family, which was found in the Pantheon, and supposed to contain the ashes of Agrippa. The palace, and other buildings connected with the Lateran, are now converted into an hospital, and form one of the finest objects of modern ar- SACRED RELICS. 185 chitecture in Rome. This place was the usual residence of the Popes until their departure for Avignon. Gregory the Ninth preferred the Vati- can, and his successors have resifled either there, or at the Quirinal, ever since, the air of the La- teran heing considered bad. On great festivals, however, they still officiate at the Lateran, whose church retains pre-eminence over all others in Christendom. There is a small chapel called La Scala Santa, erected near it, in honour of the real stairs of Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem, consisting of twenty-eight steps of white marble, which were brought from the holy city by some devout crusader. As our Saviour was known frequently to have trod upon them, no one pre- sumes to follow his example in this particular. They are in fact reserved for the knees of pious Christians of implicit faith. There is also a re- markable relic exhibited in the church of St Praxe- des, which demands an equal degree of faith or credulity. It is the pillar at which our Saviour was scourged, anciently kept on Mount Sion, and is of grey, or black and white marble, about twenty inches in height, and a foot in diameter, with the iron ring at the top, to which criminals were tied. The little chapel where it is exhibited, through a railing, bears an inscription, stating, that Cardi- nal John Columna, Apostolic Legate in the East, brought it thither in the year 1223. A sunbeam in November is an exotic in our gloomy climate, but in this bright atmosphere it is indigenous ; and I never saw a finer day in July in England, than that on which I visited the La- teran. When passing through one of the cross- p2 186 POPE LEO XI r. streets near the Corso, on my return, I was at- tracted by the sight of an immense crowd, collect- ed at the gate of a Palazzo, which was guarded by a picquet of dragoons (the guardia nobile) in their dark-green uniforms, cocked hats and plumes of black feathers. Just as I approached, an old- fashioned state-coach, gaudily gilded, drawn by six black steeds, drew up to the door. Every in- dividual amongst the gaping crowd immediately fell on their knees, calling out, " Benedictione, Sancto Padre ! " A tall, venerable-looking man, apparently about seventy, in clerical robes, raising his right hand, made the sign of the cross, and in the most dignified manner bestowed his blessing on the kneeling multitude. It was Pope Leo the Twelfth, who had been visiting his private palace, previous to its undergoing some projected re- pairs. His unwieldy vehicle, followed by half a dozen others equally antiquated, filled with cardi- nals and officers of his household, drove off, escort- ed by the guard of honour, amidst the respectful silence of the spectators ; but not until one of them, a widow apparently, had thrown a large fold- ed paper, a petition no doubt, into the coach. The old man took it up, bowed to her with a benignant smile, and handed it to one of his attendants. It is our own feelings which give their tone to the objects we behold ; and I acknowledge that the Pope appeared to me at this moment much more like what an ecclesiastical prince ought to be, than if I had first seen him presiding over the whole sacro colkgiOf surrounded by all the splen- dour of the Roman court ; or even during holy week, with its many ceremonies, gorgeous, glitter- REFLECTIONS. 187 ing, or luctiferous, and its interminable proces- sions, aided by the unequalled miserere^ allowed by the most musical people in the world to be the acme of human melody. Some superficial travellers in Italy content themselves with declaiming against Catholicism, while others are amazed, in their simplicity, that Popery and morality should exist together. It is, I believe, pretty well known to all who are ac- quainted with the moral influences of different nations, that sensual immorality is more and more prevalent the farther south we proceed. Does this apply to religion, or to climate? In Europe, we often find its effects regulated by the latter, as well as on the African coast ; yet we find the Catholic Swiss, Bavarians, Belgians, or even the Tuscans, more moral as a people than the highly civilized inhabitants of our own Babylon itself. Man is essentially a religious being, as much as he is a social one. This may be laid down as an aphorism, and proved by the soundest arguments ; aiid what would Rome be without religion ? or, which is an infinitely more serious inquiry for the present race of Romans, what would they be with- out it ? why, what the Parisians were on the com- mencement of the Revolution, or the inhabitants of any other great city at the present day, deprived of their sense of moral duty. Were I to judge from what I have seen of different states in Eu- rope, I should say that the climate and government of countries have the greatest effect on the moral character of the people ; for men, in the mass, are what their rulers make them. Historical, political, and religious works in 188 ANGLO-LATIN. French, are, in general, despised in Italy, they are so seldom written conscientiously, and the authors are so fond of imparting to the world that of which they have hut a very superficial knowledge them- selves. But owing to the restrictions on literary productions, such foreign works are, hy a legal fic- tion, supposed not to exist ; and therefore Italian literati are constrained to treat with silent con- tempt, arguments and misrepresentations which they might otherwise he induced to answer. The learned Romans laugh when they hear Eng- lishmen attempting to speak Latin; for nothing can be more ahsurd than our affected and incorrect pronunciation of most of the vowels, which renders Anglo-Latin quite unintelligible to foreigners in conversation. Even in Ireland and Scotland, Latin is taught in the principal schools and colleges in the same manner that it is in Italy, and all over the Continent, instead of that vicious pronuncia- tion peculiar to England ; and it may easily be ima- gined, that there is no place where Latin is known 80 well as at Rome, nor where an inscription can be more distinctly deciphered. The fact is, our boarding-school misses receive an education in some respects more available for general society, than the majority of University graduates. Many pedants, proud of their knowledge of Greek, and a barbar- ous unintelligible Latin, feel quite at a loss when they happen to go abroad ; for such is the nature of their education, that they can scarcely articu- late a word of any modern language, their own ex- cepted. An extract from an English University, lately expressed to me his admiration of the Lusiad, which he liad just been reading in Portuguese. I PONTIFICAL VESPERS. 189 presumed, of course, that he was acquainted with the language, to enable him so fully to appreciate the beauties of Camoens. But he acknowledged that this was not the case, having merely perused the work phihlogicaUy^ without understanding one word of it \ On the eve of All- Saints, I accompanied an Irish Franciscan, who had resided many years in Rome, to the Vatican, to witness the imposing ce- remony of Pontifical vespers, which was to take place in the splendid Sixtine Chapel. Stationing ourselves within the railing, which ungallantly ex- cludes the fair sex, I saw the Cardinals successive- ly ai-rive in state, decked out in their rich scarlet silk robes, and followed by their chaplains and train-bearers. Two of the Cardinals, Zurla and Capellari, who are Camaldolese monks, wore splen- did white silk robes. They were the only two members of that order I had ever seen. The con- trast between their attire and that of the other personages of the Sacred College, induced me to make inquiries about them ; and I leanied that the present Pope has appointed not only them (although monks are seldom admitted into the Consistory), but three others, including the general of the Ca- puchins, Micari, a noble-looking fellow, who was likewise present, and who, in his black robes and fine flowing beard, seemed to have more the air of a field-marshal than of a friar. Upon this oc- casion, I counted upwards of twenty Cardinals, who ranged themselves on both sides of the altar, according to their seniority, besides Monsignores, Bishops, and heads of religious orders without number. At length I beheld the Pope, who en- 190 SIXTINE CHAPEL. teped from the palace, and seated liimself on an elevated throne, having his brow adorned with the triple tiara. He was clothed in gorgeous robes of white and gold, and attended by a motley assem- blage of Roman clergy, nobility, and foreign am- bassadors, dressed in the most glaring style of magnificence, and decked out in all colours, from the sober grey of the anchorites and mendicants, to the sombre black of the monks ; from the pur- ple of the monsignore to the crimson of the canon; and from the scarlet of the cardinal to the white of the Supreme Pontiff. I cannot enter into a prolix detail of church ceremonies. In fact, I paid veiy little attention to them, amidst the superior attrac- tions of the unrivalled frescoes of Michael Angelo, which cover the walls of the Sixtine Chapel, toge- ther with the heavenly music of its full choir. The great effect of the fine evening service of the Ca- tholic Church, is produced by the perfect training of the band of singers, who practise constantly together, without any accompaniment. The sopranos, I am sorry to say, are unfortunate castrati, sacrificed for the sake of sweet sounds. The Italian voice, though not always pleasing in conversation, soars in its higher tones into the richest and boldest musical expression. The per- son who chiefly attracted my attention, (and for- tunately my Hibernian cicerone knew every in- dividual of distinction), was the Cardinal della Sommaglia, from !iis strong resemblance to a ce- lebrated ex-Lord Chancellor, They are about the flame advanced age, both possessing the suaviter in modo^ the same penetrating eyes, still lighted up with an almost youthful fire, when directing a keen CARDINAL SOMMAGLIA. 191 piercing glance ; and their countenances exhibit occasionally the same play of iron features relaxed into a Sardonic smile. The Cardinal was formerly gifted with considerable skill and address in the management of affairs, but is now (unlike his British counterpart) incapacitated for business, owing to a loss of memory, which is certainly a strange nega- tive quality for a minister of state, an office he yet holds. Nor is it only physically that Delia Som- maglia resembles the venerable peer I have alluded to, for their minds seem to have been similarly con- stituted ; they are equally attached to religion, Ro- man or Anglican, in all its exclusive spirit, and to all ancient institutions ; they are equally opposed to innovations, and to the too hasty spread of know- ledge, or to what is vulgarly called the " march of intellect. " During our walk home by the Ponte di S. An- gelo, I asked my reverend Irish friend if he ever intended to return to his own country ? " Yes, " he said, " I should like to leave my bones in the land of my fathers ; but what pleasure can I have in witnessing the majority of my countrymen de- prived of their civil rights ? " I told him that I did not see how he could be affected by any change, as Catholics enjoyed toleration, and the free ex- ercise of their religion, whilst there were many Protestants in Ireland who were the principal pro- prietors ; and that it was necessary to support the Established Church there, as well as in England. The friar indignantly exclaimed, " No I Catholi- cism is the religion of the Irish people ; it is the ancient, indigenous plant of our fertile but ne- glected land : Orangeism is but an exotic, more 192 AN IRISH FRIAR. recently implanted by a foreign hand in the green fields of Erin — alas ! too often watered by the blood of her sons, before it attained its present rank and luxuriant growth. When England has the wisdom to wipe off the foul and opprobrious stain attached to the professors of our holy faith (so long retained, after the shadow of a pretext for such narrow and exclusive policy has ceased to exist), then, and not till then, will Ireland be happy, and England just. " I can give but a faint idea of the impression which the old Milesian wished to convey ; nor can it well be imagined without actu- ally beholding his dark pallid countenance, with his venerable locks, and the sparkling of his still intelli- gent eye, and hearing his sonorous voice, agitated by the earnest energy of his manner, and listening to the dictates of his enthusiastic patriotism, warm- ed by religious zeal. As his opinions were fixed, the time and place were equally unsuited for a lengthened discussion ; and therefore, shaking me cordially by the hand, the worthy old man wished me good night at the door of my hotel, and dis- appeared, afraid, no doubt, of arriving too late at his convent. It is surprising how little is known of his pre- sent Holiness, even in his own capital. Dur- ing my stay at Rome, I endeavoured to satisfy my curiosity regarding Leo XII. and was at length, from peculiar circumstances, enabled to collect from several sources, many authentic par- ticulars of his early life and subsequent conduct since he reached his present exalted station. Count Annibale della Genga was born in the year 1760, at the hereditary estate of la Genga* MEMOIR OF LEO XII. 193 near the town of Spoleto. As there is only one road to fortune or fame in the States of the Church, at an early age he repaired to Rome, to commence his ecclesiastical studies. When about four-and- twenty, his handsome person and the elegance of his manners attracted tlie notice of Pius VI. who was so much struck with the noble and pre- possessing appearance of the Abate della Genga, then just entered into holy orders, that he was immediately summoned to his Holiness*s apart- ments at the Quirinal Palace. The Pope's object was^ not only to form his court of the k^st looking young aspirants after ecclesiastical dignities, but also to put their talents to the test, by employ- ing them in his private correspondence, historical researches, or in any secret proceedings in which he saw fit to engage them. It happened at that time, that some new arrangements were framing for the government and discipline of the church in Germany, which it was necessary to keep secret from the court. The Pope, relying on the discre- tion and zeal of his young protege, employed him confidentially for many months, writing under his dictation upon ecclesiastical affairs, chiefly at night, with much precaution and mystery ; until, by a series of skilful manoeuvres, Cardinal Colnacci, one of the most ambitious men at the Papal court, discovered the nocturnal occupations of his Holi- ness, and intrigued successfully to have his amanu- ensis discarded. Having pumped the secret of the proposed reforms in the German bishopricks from the unsuspecting youth, from the height of the most brilliant hopes, founded on the Pope's predilection for him, della Genga as suddenly fell into the uu- Q 194 MEMOIR OF LEO Xll. distinguished ranks of the ordinary prelacy, without appointment or consideration, except that of Mon- signore, — a class from which those destined for the highest offices are generally selected. Though sub- sequently restored to favour, his appointment to a foreign mission compelled him to leave a capital where he was as much admired by the one sex, as he was envied by the other. In the end, however, it proved more to his interest to be removed from the pleasures and dissipation of Rome, to a sphere better calculated for the display of his natural ta- lents, and the development of his excellent abilities. The legation of Munich becoming vacant, he was named to it, and soon became a decided favourite at the Electoral Court — an honour to which his amiable manners, elegant person, and highly culti- vated mind, justly entitled him. Here he formed some valuable acquaintances, particularly with Prince Louis, now King of Bavaria, whose visit to Home lately was intended as a proof of his friend- ship. In the year 1793, Count della Genga was promoted to the highest rank in the Episcopacy, by the honorary title of Archbishop of Tyre, in partibus infidelium ; * and on the death of his pa- tron in 1800, he was recalled to Italy from his post of Legate, where he found Cardinal Gonsalvi, the nephew of his old enemy Colnacci, in power, he having been appointed secretary of state — an office which he retained during the latter years ♦ •* The country of the unbelievers. " All the former titles of the Roman clergy, when their church was really Catholic, are retained, but distinguished by the above phrase, being however not altogether titular ; for salaries are, in many instances, attached to those imaginary Sees. MEMOIR OF LEO XII. 195 of the protracted pontificate of Pope Pius VII. Delia Genga now retired for a while from public life ; and his chief occupation and amusement, at this period, lay in the chase, to the pleasures of which he devoted most of his time. During the fifteen years Italy was governed by the French, the Pope's temporal sovereignty was in abeyance. The Roman States, reduced to a province of the new Empire, were obliged to submit to the degradation of receiving laws from a French prefect, who re- sided in the Eternal City ; and who relieved the Papal Court (when held at Rome) from the troubles and anxiety attendant on worldly con- cerns. Of course, Cardinal Gonsalvi, the honorary secretario di stato, held a complete sinecure, or ra- ther his functions were limited to the cure of souls, having only the responsibility of those spiritual matters of which the Pope, as head of the Catho- lic Church, could not be divested. In the mean time, della Genga obtained charge of the diocess of Sinigaglia, where he was much beloved, during the few years he presided over it. The restoration of the Bourbon dynasty in France was so important an event in the fortunes of his Holi- ness, that he immediately sent Archbishop della Gen- ga to congratulate Louis the Eighteenth on his re- turn to Paris. That he might not relinquish an op- portunity of obtaining, by entering into negotiations with the restored monarch, as much influence for the Holy See as it had lost under the Imperial Usurper who preceded him, the Nuncio was instructed by the crafty and politic Gonsalvi, to endeavour to pre- vail upon Louis to renounce those advantages which had been secured to the Gallicau Church by the 196 MEMOIR OF LEO XII. famous Concordat — amission which terminated suc- cessfully for the Roman Court. It terminated o- therwise, however, with regard to its effects upon the character of Delia Genga, who had been ap- pointed to the office of Nuncio, merely because the jealous Gonsalvi had considered the object of the mission impossible of attainment. Finding that the French monarch had expressed his fa- vourable intentions towards the interests of the Pope, Delia Genga impolitically addressed a letter to Gonsalvi, giving a candid opinion of the fa- vourable prospects of his undertaking. This error was one of the greatest he could have been guilty of, and in most courts is never excused or forgotten. It nearly proved fatal, not only to his reputation, but to his life. Had he written vaguely, exaggerated the difficulties that obstructed him, and abstained from despatching a courier un- til the arrangement was concluded or formally signed, his skill, talents and finesse, would have been extolled, and a Cardinal's hat and some rich benefice would have been his reward. Instead of this, Gonsalvi informed the Pope that the affiiirs of the Church absolutely required his (Gonsalvi's) immediate presence at Paris, to counteract the awkward position in which the inconsiderate Nun- cio had placed the negotiations on the tapis ; and as France stands higher than any other power in the estimation of the Holy See, from the im- portance which her adherence reflects on the head of the Catholic Church, Cardinal Gonsalvi was very soon on his way across the Alps. In little more than a fortnight after writing his unfortunate despatch, aflPairs having gone on most MEMOIR OF LEO XIT. 197 prosperously in the meantime, Delia G enga was about to wait upon the French minister, to give the finish- ing hand to the Concordat, when he was surprised by the unwelcome arrival of Gonsalvi ; who, in an hour afterwards, receiving the necessary documents from his thunderstruck rival, superseded him in the ne- gotiations at the Tuilleries, and acquired the merit of terminating the affair, although he had merely got it formally signed. The distress produced by this untimely interference in the mind of Delia Genga was such, that for many months he never left his bed, an hemorrhage having immediately declared itself, which brought him to the point of death. Grief, disappointment and mortification, preyed on his health; and this malady has never since ceased to afflict him at intervals. It is said he has received the viaticum, or extreme unction, no less than a dozen times since this revolution in his system. Nearly two years after, in the consistory held on the 8th of March 1816, Delia Genga was elevated to the honours of the purple, and soon after appointed Vicar-general to Pius the Seventh. At the last conclave in 1823, Cardinal della Som- maglia, from his advanced age, and because he held the office of Dean of the Sacro Collegio, as well as other circumstances, had great hopes of being e- lected to succeed Pius the Seventh. A young man seldom succeeds ; and Della Genga was at that time not much more than sixty — quite a youth in this Council of Ancients. But, it is said, that he dexterously made an arrangement with his old friend Della Sommaglia, to promote the interests of one another, on condition that, if either were q2 198 PONTIFICATE OF LEO XII. elected Pope, the other should have the office of Secretary of State. This is the only plausible manner of accounting for the result of the election in favour of the young Pope, and the nomination of the old Ultra-minister of State. Leo the Twelfth, however, certainly owes his present ele- vated station in some measure to his pleasing ele- gance of manner, and his handsome, graceful per- son, which secured him many friends ; and, al- though a man of pleasure in early life, he is not only reformed, but more strait-laced and rigid in his conduct, than if he had been equally exem- plary in his youth. In this respect he resembles all converts, who affect greater austerity, and make less allowance for the faults of others, than those who have never strayed from the path of pro- priety. Since the appointment of his present Ho- liness, the Vatican has been indebted to him for a vast accession to its treasures, in antiquities, lite- rature, and the arts. Several collections of books, antiques and curiosities, have been lately pur- chased, such as the Verentini and Ranandini, which are part of the Aldobrandini statues and relievi. He has also continued the different public w^orks com- menced by his predecessor for the embellishment of Rome ; fulfilling, in an exemplary manner, many of the duties of a pontiff and a prince, by enact- ing and promulgating laws for the protection of commerce, and the improvement of the public ad- ministration. He has succeeded in eradicating the banditti who so long infested the maritime provinces. He has added a cabinet of mosaics to the Vatican Museum, augmented the number of Theological Colleges, and increased the salaries of the Professors. CARD. DELIA SOMMAGLIA. 199 Although an effort was made by the^Ultra party to prohibit public Protestant worship in Rome, it is still protected by the Court, and even a guard allowed to sanction the English service ; an inesti- mable advantage to the many foreign residents there. To the influence of Cardinal della Sommaglia, may be attributed the measures now in contempla- tion, to found a college on the same footing as the Sorbonne, a philological establishment, charged with the examination of all literary works before they are printed. There can be little apprehen- sion of any liberal productions escaping the vigi- lant eyes of ecclesiastical censors. I believe his Holiness owes his unpopularity solely to his un- fortunate choice of a minister, as the recollection of the beneficent and conciliatory Gonsalvi is still cherished by the Romans with a sentiment of grateful affection, which the less congenial and in- tolerant government of his antiquated successor has strengthened and confirmed. Italians, before the last century, called all ultra- montanos Barbarians ; and Voltaire allows that his own countrymen deserved that appellation in a li- terary sense, before the establishment of the French Academy by Louis XIV. They still look upon foreigners, when they talk of painting, sculpture, or music, as little better than barbarians. In regard to the fine arts, Italians may, without presumption, arrogate to themselves a general knowledge of the subject, as well as an intimacy with its most minute details, and a fineness of tact not to be met with in the inhabitants of any other country. As to climate, they enjoy even in winter a genial warmth, a purity of sky, and an elasticity of atmosphere. 200 ENGLISHMEN IN ROME. of which our English weather gives no example ; and they are therefore amazed that we can feel attach- ed to a country, where fogs and frost form the va- rieties of our winter, while even in summer we are often inundated with rain. We in our turn, how- ever, pity the Laplander and the Icelander, who live amidst ice and snow in their hyperborean re- gions, forgetting, in our tenderness, the attractive power of the naked crags and desolate shores, which their native country present both in its ex- ternal appearance and old associations, and which naturally endear to the rude unsophisticated boor the land of his fathers. Rome is always full of strangers, four-fifths of whom are English, who conduct themselves rather improperly, particularly with regard to religious ce- remonies. This is in extreme bad taste. I know not why it is that we act in a manner abroad, which we should be ashamed of at home. I am by no means inclined to underrate the good qualities of my own countrymen, celebrated as they are for the exercise of many virtues, and at least as pure a morality as that of the inhabitants of Continen- tal nations ; but I have ever remarked a strik- ing difference between Englishmen at home and abroad. The national spirit which prevails prover- bially among the Scotch would be laudable, inas- much as it contributes to their happiness, if it did not make them too partial to their own merits. It must, however, be allowed, that they show a greater deference and respect to the customs of fo- reign countries, than their southern brethren. In- deed, were attention to the public ordinances of religion, and the strict observance of Sunday, to be THE VITUPERATIVE TRAVELLER. 201 taken as criterions of the morals of a people, I should say that Italy or Scotland would stand pre- eminent in morality; for I know of no country which excels them respectively in these qualifi- cations. Sterne, in his enumeration of the different de- scriptions of travellers, has omitted the vitupera- tive traveller. When one of this class (by far the most numerous of our countrymen who visit Italy) speaks of the people, no term of abuse is strong enough to convey his opinion of the natives of a country, where Englishmen are in- variably received with urbanity and attention — often with kindness and hospitality. If he talks of its antiquities and its arts, a thousand silly abu- sive epithets (ycleped learned criticisms) are be- stowed on the finest monuments that have escaped the ravages of ages, or been erected in modern times by the geuius of man. Science and lite- rature appear to him alike contemptible, where artists and authors are either upstarts who raise themselves from obscurity, or owe their fame to the adventitious aid of birth or patronage. Italian nobility and professional men are equally misrepre- sented ; while the females are declared to be unedu- cated, vulgar and licentious, notorious for amours which would elsewhere exclude ladies from so- ciety. No rank is exempt from this general cen- sure ; but his own country, forsooth, is held up as the centre of knowledge, religion, morality, and toleration ; combining a certain tone of fashion, high-bred ease, and polished gayety, which the vitu- perative traveller seeks for in vain abroad. Where- ever he goes, his national prejudices, improperly 202 CLASSIC RECOLLECTIONS. termed atnor patricB^ accompany him ; and, if admit- ted into good society, he compares the manners of Italy with those of England, and that comparison, as a matter of course, tends always to the advantage of the latter. Every page he writes contains a libel on the character of his polite and hospitable enter- tainers. However highly gifted they may be, as foreigners, they must pay homage to their abusive guest, and thus have their kindness requited by ingratitude. I pity more than I envy the feel- ings which dictate such conduct ; nor is it easy to fancy any man so totally insensible to the charms of ancient literature, as not to venerate that land from which it first emanated. To Greece and Rome we owe the brightest visions of our youth, which can no more be forgotten than the valiant deeds of their heroes, their fabled gods, and all the beautiful illusions of their mythology, cele- brated by bards and historians whose pages have aiForded us so much instruction and delight. We now contemplate the faded glory of their literature and arts, so forcibly recalled at every step we take in Rome, where, however on a deep substratum of venerable antiquity, has been raised a super- structure of unparalleled magnificence. CHAPTER VIII. ROME CONTINUED. On All Saints' Day, having obtained admittance to the same part of the Sixtine Chapel where we had been the evening before, we set oJfF at an early hour to see one of the grandest ceremo- nies of the Catholic Church — a pontifical high mass. A similar array of Cardinals and other dignitaries officiated as at vespers, and the like divine music again enchanted our ears. But the spectacle was still more brilliant ; for, besides the dazzling pomp and splendour of the clergy, the whole of the Corps Diplomatique were present, to pay their respects to his Holiness after mass, which lasted about two hours. The Pope, by whom it was ce- lebrated, after the ceremony, seated himself on the throne, when a young canon of St Peter *s mounted the pulpit, and preached a Latin ser- mon very fluently, with a graceful delivery, and distinct enunciation. The ceremonies of this day were altogether su- premely grand, and some of the intensely pathetic musical sounds would have reached the soul of an infidel. Music is an exotic art with us, ac- 204 ATTRACTIONS OV ROME. quired with a feeling of effort and assiduity ; whilst, in this gifted land, it appears to flow from the heart as its own habitual language, and as the source from which the sentiments of all clas- ses take their tone. The facility with which Italians acquire a knowledge of music, must ap- pertain to some peculiarity of auricular organiza- tion. They have, from infancy, an ear for time as well as] sound, and they advance in skill almost intuitively. What a delightful residence Rome must be for any man who has a musical taste ! It must be no less so to him who chiefly occupies himself in antiquarian researches, or the study of the fine arts. In fact, there are instances of tra- vellers who visited Rome merely to spend a few weeks, having remained all their lives. Poussin could never make up his mind to quit a country which afforded such beautiful landscapes. Far from being surprised that Rome should have sub- dued the world, Petrarch, when he first beheld it, although it was torn by faction during the short- lived power of Rienzi, " the last of the Romans, " rather wondered that the conquest had not been earlier accomplished. The spacious subterranean Church of St Peter s is, from its antiquity, well worth inspection. It formed part of the original edifice built in the fourth century, and contains the remains of many Popes and martyrs. The most highly valued treasures of this description which it possesses, are the relics of St Peter and St Paul, which lie in a sumptuous vault under the cupola, orna- mented by a magnificent altar, at which only the Popes say mass. Thither pilgrims resort from all SUBTERRANEAN CHURCH. 205 parts of the world to reverence and pray before their shrine. The three last chiefs of the unfortu- nate Stuart line are also interred under St Peter's, and on each of their tombs the empty title of " King of Great Britain, France and Ireland, " is inscribed. When I ascended into the church from this sub- terranean region, an Italian peasant, who was stand- ing near the high altar (surrounded by the most gorgeous display of human magnificence and splen- dour), inquired of me " Abasso e piu brutto che qui di sopra ? " (" Is it uglier below than above here ? ") rather an unsophisticated manner of ex- pressing his opinion ! I recrossed the Tiber to view the mausoleum of Augustus, now almost concealed, and seemingly forgotten, amidst the mean-looking modern buildings which encompass it. I cannot say that the sight of this monument afforded me much gratification, as it has been converted into an am- phitheatre for bull-baiting, or some such horrible a- musement. The walls that remain are of tufo and brick, of great thickness, though much dilapidated. The presentation of letters of introduction is not generally followed by invitations to balls and dinners in Italy. But one hour's conversation with such men as the Conservator of the Vatican Manuscripts, Monsignore Angelo Mai, or Signore Morini, Prefect of the Archives, known by several erudite works, proves far more agreeable to strangers who may be introduced to them, than the formal mode of acknowledgement, which is considered the indis- pensable result of introductory letters. I derived more satisfaction during the short time I spent in company with some of the literati of Rome, than if they had invited me to banquets, such as 206 A CONVERSAZIONE. were wont to be given by Lucullus, the Apicii, or any of the Imperial gluttons who disgraced the purple. I was presented at the " Caza " of a Ro- man widow lady, whose evening converzationi were generally frequented by some of the literati of the capital, and occasionally by scientific fo- reigners. I cannot say much for the specimen it afforded of blue- stocking society. We had neither cards nor refreshment ; but a bravura was sung by a very young lady, and an elaborate piece of music by another, " dun age fort raisonahle. " The conversation, of which we had abundance, was supported chiefly by a couple of elderly Abates, a Dottore, some artists, and other nondescripts. But the few English people present contributed little to the intellectual part of the evening's display ; they seemed quite satisfied to listen as short a time as possible to what they scarcely understood, and too happy to seize the first opportunity of a formal pause, in order to effect their retreat, ap- parently unaccompanied by the regret of those they left behind. I know not a created being more annoying than a pedantic woman, superficially ac- quainted with general literature, and gifted with a tolerable memory, but affecting a taste for more than she understands ; and withall so overpower- ingly learned, that she is never happy unless when surrounded by a herd of men-scribblers, who exhaust any moderate stock of patience, talking of unread books because not worth reading, and priding themselves upon a knowledge of what nobody but themselves thinks worth his while knowing any thing about. One day I resolved to dedicate myself sole- CLASSIC RUINS — PASQUIN. 207 ly to the ancients ; and first bent my steps to the Corso, leaving learned antiquarians to settle the point, 80 often agitated, as to whether this is the lo- cale of the Via Lata. I thought, however, that it must have formed part of the disputed place ; and it has been pretty accurately ascertained, that the remainder follows the direction of the Via Trium- phaUy beyond the site of the Flaminian Gate. The Campus Martins is more accurately desig- nated, not from the obscure lane now bearing that name, but owing to some of its ancient monu- ments, which still appear. Strabo describes the Campus Martins as a place sacred to the memory of the most illustrious citizens, to which, in the reign of Tiberius, the city itself appeared only an accessory and secondary object. How different now I It is covered with houses, and reckoned one of the most populous quarters of Rome. Be- fore entering the grand scene of our destination, we stopped to view a colossal Isis, the Mona Lu- crezia, and the celebrated Pasquin at the corner of the Orsini palace. This disfigured white mar- ble torso, unless pointed out, would never attract the slightest observation. There is a group at Florence, representing Menelaus carrying off the body of Patroclus, which bears a striking resem- blance to it. The mutilated figure now known by the name of Pasquin, owes its celebrity to a sa- tirical cobbler or barber, notorious for the bitter- ness of his gibes, and raciness of his jokes. His shop, in the days of Leo X., was near the spot where the statue now stands ; and neither his Holiness nor the Cardinals escaped the lampoon* of the wits, any mote than their »ucc«680f«, and 2C8 STATUE or MARC. AURELIUS. Other public characters, do at present. We en- tered the residence of the senator, whose duty is confined to the superintendance of markets and prisons, the latter being situated under, and the council chamber over, his hall of justice. We had no inducement to pay his Worship's premises a very long visit, for the Mayor and Aldermen of modern Rome, (Senator and Conservators) ex- cite as little interest as those of an English borough- corporation. I observed the well-known S.P.Q.R.* inscribed transversely on a Gothic escutcheon, pre- ceded by a cross, and surmounted by a coronet, presenting rather a grotesque appearance in such a spot. The office of Senator is now held by a no- bleman of the first rank, who must be an alien, no native of Rome being eligible. A few pictures relieved the dulness of the dingy walls; and they were precisely of that description on which Gold- smith's Connoisseur passes the qualified eulogium, " that they might have been better painted, if the painter had taken more pains. " We remained a longer time in the area below, admiring the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius and his horse, once the idol of Rome — I mean the horse, which was the magnet of attraction, the Emperor being only the accessory. No monument of antique sculp- ture has been more admired than this, which is the model of equestrian statues, as much as the Pan- theon is the model of all cupolas which have been erected since the reign of Augustus. Having been one of the first statues found at Rome, and never subsequently equalled, it has naturally been ex- posed to much criticism, and has consequently suf- * Scnalus, PopulusquCf Romanus^ Senate and People of Rome. TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. 209 fered both from praise and censure, though the former predominates. The magnificent ruins in the Forum Romanum, which now bears the undignified name of Campo Vaccino, * obliterated for the moment the recollec- tion of every other object. The first of the mighty vestiges of antiquity, which strikes the stranger on entering this classic ground, is the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus, composed of one large and two smaller arches of Grecian marble. It is too much interred for one to judge properly of its pro- portions or effect ; and I ought not to censure what has found so many admirers. But I certainly thought less of it, from the poverty of its entabla- ture, than any of the Roman arches. The very proximity of the others is dangerous, in as much as they provoke a comparison, in which this arch is quite eclipsed by the superior excellence of others. The arch of Titus, though small, is crowded with sculpture and has reliefs, representing, on one side, the conqueror of Jerusalem in his car crowned by Victory, and on the other the spoils of the temple. I do not think that the repairs or modern restorations have very much injured the effect of this arch, as the same style has been preserved pretty faithful- ly ; but unless the addition were deemed abso- lutely necessary to prevent it from falling to utter ruin, it might as well have been left untouched. The Corinthian arch of Constantino is larger, but less noble, and far more incorrect in its archi- tecture than that of Titus, being indeed much inferior to that of Severus. There are eight * Cattle-market ; literally, Cow.field. R 2 SIO CARCERE MAMERTINA. magnificent columns of giall'antico, and an equal number of statues of Dacian captives. The bas re- liefs, representing the conquests of Trajan, are sup- posed to have been pilfered from an arch originally erected in honour of that greatest of all Roman Emperors. The sculpture on the frieze is so in- ferior, that little doubt can be entertained of its having been executed for this patched-up work, dur- ing the decline of the Empire, which was also the decline of the arts. We descended to the Carcere Mamertina, or prison of Jugurtha, where a fountain is shown which St Peter, when incarcerated there, is said to have called into existence, in order to baptize his jailors. I never saw a more horrible place, and was not a little pleased to get into the open air again. I found, however, that it was expected I should also look at the pictures of an expiatory church erected over the spot, and dedicated to St Peter. Being anxious to return to the inspection of the ancient treasures of the Forum, I made my stay as short as the Sacristan (a well-fed retainer of the church, remarkably partial to half a crown) would, in his enthusiasm, permit. The three grand columns of the temple of Jupiter-Tonans, and the Corinthian columns of that of Antoninus and Faustina, were next examined in detail, passing the gigantic mass of brick, which, according to some, was the temple of Peace, and if we are to believe others, the Basilica of Constantine. The point is of little importance now, though the most unlearn- ed antiquary may safely venture to pronounce the absurdity of the latter supposition, from the shape and appearance of the ruius. We closed our in- THE COLISEUM. 211 vestigation for that day, with the largest edifice in Europe, built in four years by Vespasian and his son Titus, known by the name of the Coliseum, or Flavian Amphitheatre. The northern exterior of this structure exhibits the different orders of architecture which the building combines — Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian ; open ar- cades, and an attic sustained by Corinthian pilasters with foliated capitals. The 80 Vomitoria, or entran- ces from corridors, are still perceptible, and were so admirably disposed, that 80,000 spectators could as- semble or disperse without confusion. Its form is elliptic, with an external circumference of 1700 feet. In viewing this gigantic edifice, one cannot avoid lamenting the rapacity of modern Roman patricians, to whose depredations, not to the natural decay of time, the dilapidated state of the interior is to be attributed : for the immense masses of masonry with which this noble structure was built would never have yielded, unassisted by the efforts of the Barberini and other barbari, who pillaged its travertine and calcareous blocks, in order to build their fine palaces. A stop has however been put to the work of destruction by the late Pope, who prohibited any one from removing the materials of this stupendous fabric, and raised a solid buttress to prevent any more of it from falling. He also expended large sums in repairing some of the ravages which originated in the Gothic rapacity of his predecessors' nephews. This wonderful edifice owes its beauty more to the grandeur and symme- try of the whole, than to the conectness of its mi- nuter parts, some of which are very deficient in beauty and proportion. I was lost in surprise 212 PALA220 DOHIA PAMFILI. and admiration when contemplating the immensity of this building, which cannot fail to inspire the mind with an exalted idea of Roman magnificence, while we regret the barbarous purposes to which it was applied ; for it is well known that during the period intervening from the time of Csesar to that of Carinus, the combats of gladiators and wild beasts were generally given in these amphitheatres. Chariot-races (games of a more innocent nature) were always exhibited in the circus. The Palazzo Doria Pamfili is a large edifice, loaded with ornament, designed by Borromini. Its gallery, considered one of the finest in Rome, contains many masterpieces, and a number of ex- cellent landscapes by Caspar Poussin and Rosa da Tivoli. Amongst the celebrated pictures I saw the Aldobrandini Nuptials, copied by Nicola Pous- sin from what is probably the most perfect speci- men of ancient painting in the world, and which to me appeared to merit the great admiration be- stowed on it. The original is a beautiful frag- ment found in the bath of Titus, supposed to re- present the marriage of Peleus and Thetis. There are ten figures upon the same plain, forming three groups. The ground is a grey skreen, breast high. The design and attitudes have all the severe sim- plicity of sculpture, or of has reliefs, without any richness of colour, draperies or accessories, to heigh- ten the effect. Poussin's Bacchanalian scene in the British national gallery, as far as regards the grouping of the figures and the colouring, has evi- dently been borrowed by the artist from the same ancient model. Rome has half a dozen theatres, and the worst THEATRES. 213 Opera in Italy. I went seldom to the only one which was open during my stay ; but when I did go to this place (La Valle), I found that Rosini's operas were performed alternately with miserable trage- dies and comedies. The theatre Aliberti is only used for masquerades during cai'nival time. The larg- est house is called the Argentini, whicb is, I under- stand, well attended in winter, when it has a toler- able company of performers; but at La Valle, even the music was bad, and the acting wretched. The theatre is conducted in a most arbitrary manner, by an avaricious empressario (director), watched and controlled by a harsh police, having the power to inflict severe penalties, fines, and even imprison- ment, for the slightest transgression. To exempli- fy this, as far as regards the audience, I may men- tion, that if a person is found with any description of weapon in the pit or gallery, he is liable to be sent for five years to the galleys ! The unfortunate Thespians are worse oiF; for should any of them use an expression not in the prompter's book, or allow himself any indecent gesture, he is sent to the galleys for life. All applause or censure is forbidden, under pain of three months imprison- ment. Such specimens of the recent theatrical code certainly exonerate the Ecclesiastical Go- vernment from the charge of having any particu- lar predilection for the drama. This despotism is many degrees worse than the monopoly of patent theatres, or even the literary censorship exercis- ed by a deputy play-licenser, against whom play- going folks in England exclaim so much. I spent a few hours one evening, at the private theatre Caesarina, in a very distant part of Rome. An opera buffa, and an indifferent comedy, made up the per- 214 CA8TLE OF ST ANGELO — ST PETER's. formances; but neither were so attractive as Poli- cinella with all its absurdity, which b used by the Romans as a vehicle for satire. It is to be regretted that the approach from the Castle of St Angelo to St Peter's, entering through the elliptic range of pillars to the gi-and staircase of the Vatican, should not be more in keeping with the grandeur of the square and the surrounding ob- jects. Could the old mean-looking houses near it be carried out of sight, the beauty of the facade of the church would appear to much greater advan- tage. However, any defects are speedily over- looked, when the pillars, fountains and obelisks, appear. In fact, every incongruity is forgotten ; the only thing that remains is a feeling of admira- tion towards the splendid scene which opens upon the view. * The Museum Pio-Clementino, enrich- ed with the most numerous collection of statues and antiques in the world, its walls lined with busts of consuls and emperors, illustrating the interesting history of Rome, is indebted to Clement XIV. and Pius VI. for its most spacious gallery, in which are preserved so many precious ancient monuments of the arts. This is an institution which tends more than any thing else to diffuse a longing for the elegant and beautiful, in art, into the mass of the people, and to promote what is equally de- sirable, a pure taste. I perambulated for hours through the almost * It may here be mentioned, that the beautiful view on the Title-page, after Firanesi, is taken from the Pincian hill, and represents some of the most striking objects in Rome— namely, the Bridge and Castle of St Angelo and St Peter's — between which and the Castle, the Vatican ap- pears in the distance. THE VATICAN. 215 interminable succession of halls and galleries of the Vatican, rich in the most graceful forms of antique sculpture. The splendour and extent of this edifice is not less amazing than its superb mar- ble columns, painted ceilings, and mosaic pavements. My attention was rivetted by the admirable Hercules, as supposed, better known as the Torso Belvidere, which displays the muscular system of the heroic demi-god so perfectly. The Mercury, young, airy and light, yielding only in beauty to Apollo and Bacchus, is generally called the Belvidere An- tinous. There is a marble viga or car, drawn by two horses (one of which is modern), and the sta- tue of an Auriga, in the act of driving ; who is clothed in a magnificent toga bound with a zone, and bears the palm of Victory in his hand, which gives a lively idea of the Pompa Circensis. I closed my hasty inspection with the group of the Laocoon, the same it is believed, which Pliny reckoned the finest piece of art in Rome. The ex- pression of terror and pity in this production are transcendent. Many, however, consider it inferior to the Apollo Belvidere, which they reckon the finest masterpiece of ancient statuary ; and the attitude of which is appropriate and commanding, with all the graces of youthful and manly beauty; the figure be- ing naked, with the exception of the chlamys. I saw no modern statues in the Vatican, except Ca- nova's pugilists, and his Perseus, the former, in forcible expression and simplicity of design, dis- playing all the excellence of his great genius ; and the latter being a model of vigorous and manly beauty, with the most perfect delicacy and har- mony of outline. These are the only works by 216 MONUMENT OF THE STUARTS. the greatest modera artist, — and they are scarce- ly inferior in truth and nature to the antiques of the Parthenon, which have been admitted into this sanctuary of the chef-d ceuvres of antiquity. Why should antique sculpture be so superior to modern, whilst modern painting is fully equal to antique ? This is a question which I have asked oftener than I have heard satisfactorily answered. It is not merely because sculpture accords better with the serious physiognomy and tranquil gesture of the Greeks and Romans, and because the an- cient draperies displayed part of the naked figure, which is rarely exposed to the eye of modem sculptors, — for the latter reason is equally appli- cable to the sister art. Is it because the human form was then more muscular and symmetrical, and abounding in models nearer perfection ? Many paintings of the most celebrated masters of later ages, Raphael, Guido, Titian and Dome- nichino, adorn the walls of the lower range of rooms in the Vatican, amongst which the Trans- figuration — the finest picture in Rome, the Com- munion of St Jerome, and a few others, are repro- duced in mosaic, copied so correctly, that they are scarcely distinguishable by an unpractised eye from the originals, especially at the distance from which they are viewed, they being placed as altar-pieces in the magnificent chapels of St Peter's. Before quitting this spot, I took a view of one of the most pleasing objects in the interior, — Canova*8 monument of the unfortunate Stuarts. The two figures representing the genius of Death, with their inverted and extinguished torches, are sym- metry itself. The model was one of the most I FRENCH AMBASSADOR'^S BALL. 217 beautiful young women in Rome, whom I should have liked much to have seen, as a living proof, that there are still some finely proportioned female figures in this degenerate age. There is a spark- ling whiteness and beauty about the Carrara mar- ble of this group, which equal in purity the finest Parian of antique statues. Such a monument is highly honourable to the liberality of our present Sovereign, who gave Canova the commission to execute it, at an expense, it is said, of 12,000/. to the privy purse. The feelings of every Englishman who visits the Vatican must be gratified, when he enters the lower gallery, to perceive, that the first picture in it is a full-length portrait of King George the Fourth, in Lawrence's best style. It was ordered by the late Pope soon after his return to Rome, when his heart was full of gratitude towards the Sovereign of a people who had destroyed the power of Buonaparte. It is no small compliment to ad- mit the picture of a tramontano artist among so many chef-d' ceuvres ; and as a proof of the high estimation in which either it or the original is held, Roman and foreign artists may be seen daily tak- ing copies of it. I was indebted to my friend the Chevalier H , whom 1 had the pleasure to find at Rome in the capacity of Chaise d' Affaires from a foreign court, for an invitation which I received to attend a splen- did ball at the Due de Laval Montmorency's. H kindly picked me up at my hotel about ten o'clock, and I accompanied him to the magnificent palace of the French ambassador, where upwards of 400 persons of the first distinction, native and foreign, 218 FEMALE SOCIETY. comprising all the rank and beauty of Ronne, were assembled. On entering the splendid saloon, the coup d'ceil was more dazzling than any thing I could have imagined ; it being the fete of his most Christian Majesty, who is so appropriately repre- sented at the Papal Court, by " Le Premier Baron Chretien, " (one of M. de Montmorency's titles.) Every one appears in court-dress or in uniform, on such an occasion ; — and the men, covered with stars and ribbons, and a hundred of the handsomest women in Rome, glittering with jewels, gave the tout ensemble a most brilliant effect. In addition to the usual amusements of cards and music, there was dancing, the first quadrille being the signal for the retreat of all the cardinals, who, not being votaries of Terpsichore, retired, I suppose, to avoid temptation. Waltzing follow- ed. Nothing could exceed the magnificence of the scene to a spectator ; but it would appear very in- sipid in description, for, after all, such assemblies are much the same thing everywhere. A couple of hours was the extent of my stay ; and I found con- siderable difficulty in getting to my conveyance, owing to the long line of carriages belonging to princes, nobles, and prelates, that blockaded the neighbouring streets. I cannot help remarking, how apt we are to underrate what we have with- in our reach, while we sigh in vain for plea- sures which are denied us ! Such is the per- versity of human nature, that I should have en- joyed infinitely more, a quiet evening, enlivened by that easy hospitality, and those unaffected graces, which often adorn the mistress of an agreeable mansion, the centre of a society at once pleasing and varied; giving fresh animation to those around ENGLISH LADIES. 219 her. A few hours passed in female society, listen- ing to the pure pronunciation of " la bocca Ro- mana, " form a gratification denied to the casual stranger, whose stay is too short to allow him to en- joy the witcheries of that most rational of pleasures — select society. Yet if I have had few retrospec- tions of this nature since leaving Rome, I have often remembered its sublime scenes, the contemplation of which afforded me unspeakable satisfaction. The Dominican convent and church of Santa Maria Sopra la Minerva — a strange combination of names — is supposed to have been built on the site of a temple erected by Pompey, arid dedicated to Pallas, in gratitude for his victories. We were in- duced to visit this splendid church one Sunday morning, having been deluded by the expectation of hearing some fine music ; but it was a mistake on the part of our informant, for we had no music of any kind, either good or bad. After service, we waited a short time to look at an image of the Saviour in white marble, considered one of Michael Angelo's finest statues, and observed a long printed paper in a conspicuous part of the church, which proved to be a decree issued by his Holiness, regulating the dress of ladies attendinp- mass, and strictly enjoining the use of veils — few of the fair sex are, however, to be seen at their devotions without that necessary appendage. It also contained instructions as to the behaviour o^ artists and foreigners who resort to the churches to view specimens of the arts, which instructions, I am sorry to say, are shamefully infringed upon everyday and every hour, particularly at St Peter's, where our fair countrywomen conduct themselves in a 220 VILLA BORGHESE, manner that would not be permitted, in any pub- lic place in England. Their lounging gait, impu- dent stare, and loud laugh, would almost disgrace the lobby of a theatre. They seem to consider the interior of Catholic churches as much public promenades as the chain-pier or the Steyne at Brighton. I did not neglect to visit the Villa Borghese,or to admire from thence the cypresses of Mount Marius, and the pines of Villa Pamfili. The situation of the former is fine, though said to be unhealthy. The prospect of the city, which this view presents, is at once beautiful and extensive, embracing the Campagna as far as Frascati and Tivoli. The in- scription on the gate of the Villa Borghese, is worthy of imitation by the nobility and gentry of our own country ; as is also the liberality of Italian princes and nobles, whom the ignorant and the prejudiced among us are so j^t to censure and condemn. ** Quisquis es, legum compedes ne hie timeas, Ito quo voles, pelito quae cupis, abito Quaiido voles. Exteris magis perantur quam hero." Rich groves, unfading verdure, and fine old trees, but chiefly the Pinus pinea of Linnaeus, ornament this spot, which presents a variety of surface formed by two hills and a dell, laid out as pleasure-grounds to its handsome casino. The artificial style of the building, with its neighbouring modern temple and ancient columns, I did not so much admire. As the palace was shut up, I saw none of the few statues which still ornament it ; but I was infi- nitely amused with the scene in the open air. A Sunday at Rome, in autumn, is a gay festi- A SUNDAY AT ROME. §21 val for the lower orders, some thousands of who*«, upon this occasion, had assembled in the delightfu . Borghese gardens. The young girls were tastefully dressed, exhibiting their elegant figures, and their fine sparkling black eyes. We were surrounded on all sides by happy groups, some dancing, others listening to the music of the guitar, the lute, or the tamboiine. Amongst whom were faces and figures equal to my idea of the Clelias and Virginias of history, and such as would not have been unworthy as models of the Ti- tians and the Guidos, when they represented their Madonnas. The modern Romans certainly are not physically, however much they may be morally, de- genei-ate(i from their great ancestors, the ancient masters of the world. On leaving the gardens we met many open carriages filled with women in gay attire repairing to the same spot, or to Mont Testacio, near the pyramid of Caius Cestius, these being the principal places to which the populace re- sort for amusement on Sundays and Thursdays in October. These sports may be termed Bacchana- lian, as they commence when the vintage terminates* There are, however, no revolting scenes of ine- briety during these festivals, which are considered by some the remains of the ancient Saturnalia. I confess that I find no analogy between them ; the one being local, the other general ; the one in autumn, the other in winter. I observed cheerful countenances, perfect gayety, and every appearance of good humour, without the slightest sign either of intemperance or indecent mirth. Tents and booths were erected in different parts of the gardens for the sale of wine and other refreshments ; but no s2 222 ITALIAN MANNERS. ane indulged to excess, for the Italians rarely sa- crifice to Bacchus, in the common sense of the term. Ardent spirits they seldom drink ; and wine being their daily beverage, they do not con* sider it a luxury. The higher classes of Italians are not pedes- trians. We do not meet them at all hours and sea- sons in the public walks, like the French ; they are a people of repose and enjoyment, allowing pleasure to come to them placidly and tranquilly, instead of running to embrace it. But when dis- posed to enjoy the delightful relaxation of fine gardens, they consider it no matter of favour, to enter one of the many enchanting villas, which, in the environs of Rome, and most other cities of Italy, are, with a liberality and munificence worthy of better days, constantly thrown open to the public. I CHAPTER IX. ROME CONTINUED. The Palazzo Borghese, near the Strada di Ripetta, is more celebrated than the Villa, owing to the nu- merous collection of paintings which it contains. This structure, but especially the magnificent colon- nade of the court edifice, was constructed by the ar- chitect Bramante,on the grandest and most splendid scale. The walls of the upper rooms, not gene- rally shown to the public, aie covered with land- scapes by Vernet ; and when the spectator enters them, so perfect is the illusion, that he is apt to fancy himself in the midst of green fields. A bad- ly lighted, though extensive range of apartments on the ground-floor, forms the gallery, which has long been one of the grand points of attraction to people of all countries who visit Rome. When I say that many of the pictures it contains are by Titian, Raphael, Annibal Carracci, Albano and Domenichino, it can scarcely fail to be considered an interesting resort even to the most superficial observer, and a delightful treat to all lovers and cultivators of the fine arts. I will not attempt any description of this col- 224 PALAZZOS— BORGIIESE — COLONNA. lection, which comprises so many gems of inesti- mable value, nor of the Colonna, which I also vi- sited the same day, and where I spent many hours with infinite satisfaction. All the rooms of the Palazzo Colonna, are filled with paintings by the first and most eminent masters. The grandeur its splendid saloon displays strikes every one with awe and admiration. It is the residence of the princely representatives of the heroic Stephen Co- lonna, the friend of Petrarch, — the great Marc An- tony Colonna, one of the conquerors at Lepanto, whose valiant deeds are emblazoned on the walls of his descendant's palace, and for whom its storied ceiling forms so appropriate an heirloom. Be- sides these ornaments, its amazing and well-propor- tioned size, its gialFantico columns, and pavement of Grecian marble, all combine to render it one of the noblest galleries in Europe. When I see so many proofs of the liberality and philanthropy of the great families of Rome, I lament that their meritorious exertions are so inadequatly appreciat- ed by foreigners. The founders of most of these princely mansions were Popes and Cardinals, who built palaces and villas, as receptacles for the most splendid objects of art, less for their own pleasure, than the admiration of others. Their taste, learn- ing and riches, were devoted to the embellishment of their country, while they often lived them- selves in a frugal manner, having no children to provide for. Their fortunes were not absor- bed by the turf, the gaming table, nor in those enjoyments which centre in self. Many of their magnificent galleries are now enriched with valu- able and elegant additions, by their heirs, some ITALIAN NOBILITY. 225 of whom have also inherited equal good taste, which they display ia the excellent use they make of their riches. Though Pius VL spent millions in huying statues and digging up antiquities, he granted none of them to his relations, but consign- ed the whole to the public gallery of the Vatican, which bears his name. The same fine spirit of liberality, which we admire so much in the Ro- man princes, whose palaces and villas are ever open to the public, is not confined to their own class, but pervades the whole of the Italian nobility throughout the country ; so much so, that they are even accused of ostentation in the display of their treasures of art. Noblemen in Italy, as such, have no political importance in the state. Their title gives them a certain status, and, in virtue of it, they enjoy a degree of consequence in society ; but the Pope's valet-de-chambre, or Cardinal della Sommaglia's confessor, has more influence than any Count or Marquis in the States of the Church. The patri- mony of many of the higher ranks, and particularly of younger brothers, is often insufficient for their maintenance, with a suitable establishment. In that case, they do not always content themselves with the idle or place-hunting mode of life, gene- rally resorted to by their titled brethren in other countries ; they apply themselves to useful arts and sciences, not merely as amateurs, but with a view of turning their talents to some profitable ac- count, I became acquainted with an excellent young man. Count Alessandro S , who has very properly put himself above all prejudices, and is now, with every prospect of success, studying ar- 326 PAINTERS, ANCIENT AND MODERN. chitecture at Rome as a profession. I know others who devote their time entirely to literature ; and the title-pages of numerous works, on a variety of subjects, show that they have not been remiss in their literary pursuits, however poorly they may have been compensated for their labours. Every one must allow that such conduct is highly ho- nourable in any class of society, but particularly so in that where merit has never been deemed equal to birth. Having recently seen so many admirable pictures produced by modern painters, I have been led to the inquiry, why it is that they excel the ancient, as much as ancient sculptors were superior to the modern ? We have no specimens preserved of the works of an Apelles or a Parrhasius ; but many ancient frescos have been dug out from the ruins of cities buried under the dust of ages. We can also form some opinion of ancient paintings from the descriptions which authors give us, and by some of the later works of the Grecian school, imitated by the old masters ; from all which it is evident, that the rules of perspective are better understood by modern painters, although the ancients are said to have treated it as a science, and reduced it to principles. The moderns are likewise acquainted with a greater variety of colours ; but it is yet to be learned whe- ther they are more vivid and enduring than those used by the Greeks, many of whose paintings Pliny speaks of as objects of admiration to the Romans centuries after they were executed. The cafes of Rome are crowded in the evenings, not with politicians, who are limited to the staid and sedate old gentlemen, occasionally seen poring CAFE NUOVO. 227 over the insipid columns of the Diario di Roma, but with groups of listless idlers who resort to the coffee-houses, the theatres, or conversazioni, im- mediately after the Ave- Maria bell has proclaimed the close of day. The higher and middling classes of society then mingle together for a few hours after sunset, in quest of that universal desideratum —pleasure. The illuminated awnings, and tapers before the images of the Madonna, (which preside in every shop, and even at the corner of the streets), supersede the necessity of lamps — for the modern improvement of gas is a luxury which has not yet reached Italy. In the Corso, there is a truly Ro- man establishment called the Cafe nuovo, on a magnificent scale, as far as regards size, but defi- cient in other essential points. It occupies the lower story of the Palazzo Ruspoli, and consists of a number of anti-chambers and billiard-rooms, terminated by an immense unfurnished hall, with dingy-looking walls, more suitable for a ball-room, than a place of resort to partake of a glass of " mezzo mezzo," or a granata, an ice scarcely in- ferior to the unrivalled plombiers of Tortoni, or the no less celebrated matonelle of Venice. From this hall there is egress to a small but delightful garden, where all the old and young dandies of the capital may be seen early in the morning taking their cafe latte, or, later in the day, sipping their cafe forte. In summer, people of fashion meerly drive up to the door in their shabby old equipages, seldom condescending to enter the interior of the bottega ; and the ladies eat their ices without leav- ing their open carriages ; while t heir cavalieri serventi chat with them, or seat th e mselves no 228 EVENING AMUSEMENTS. the benches under awnings. In the evenings, the gardens are lighted up by chandeliers, every alcove and recess being filled by the numer- ous groups who assemble to enjoy the cool even- ing air, amidst orange-trees, and partake of re- freshments. A few artists, or old abbates, are ob- served in retired corners, while the younger and more gay clerical beaux are strutting about, as con- sequentially as their rivals in coxcombry, the offi- cers of the Guardia nobile. These are the most regular frequenters of this well known lounge. Oc- casionally a maestro di lingua may be seen looking out for pupils among the fresh imported forrestieria ; and there sometimes may be discovered a half- pay officer of the army of Italy, whose tremendous mus- tachios give him the air of a Hector, and wliose ribbon of the Legion of Honour, oftener sported in the Cafe Montansier of the Palais Royale, indi- cates him to be a Roman by birth, but a French- man in manners and politics. The present Pope receives strangers who are introduced to him, with as much affability as his venerable predecessor Pius VII., wliose par- tiality for the English was so well known. The services of one of the clergymen residing at the Irish college are therefore often put in requi- sition, to perform those functions of ambassa- dor at the Papal court, which were so long the province of a Scottish ecclesiastic, the good old Abbe Grant, noted for his urbanity and gentle- man-like manners. Leo XH. receives only a few at a time, to whom he accords a sort of pri- vate audience, in one of his apartments at the Va- tican palace ; and their names being previously in- I PAPAL COURT. 229 serted in the abbate's list for presentation, he takes them in their turn, unless there happen to be peers, who enjoy the courtesy of a preference similar to the entree:. Etiquette requires that every one introduced should appear in uniform or court-dress ; and, after the preliminary introduction to Cardinal della Som- maglia, they are ushered into the presence of his Holiness, who receives them without the slightest pomp or ceremony. In this respect, his audience forms quite a contrast to the court presentation, or the royal levee of any other sovereign in Europe, from the Apostolic Kaiser down to the pettiest prince in Germany. I was amused at the ac- count I heard of an English country gentleman's conversation with the Pope, who, it seems, ask- ed this genuine John Bull, if he had ever been in Rome before ? " Yes," he replied, " but it was during the reign of the late Pope, your father, ^^ English ladies also get admitted to an audience with the same facility, except during holy week, or when Rome is very full, as levees are then sel- dom held, owing to the many church ceremonies. They are, however, requested to wear veils in the Pope's presence. A few years ago, I remember attending a ball in France, where some Englishwomen of rank at- tracted the gaze of every one in the room. Their half-naked bosoms and arms, and the shortness of their petticoats, sui*prised even the French roues, who could scarcely believe that those lovely young creatures were innocent or modest, according to the common acceptation of the word. They had committed a great mistake, in appearing thus in a country where semi-nudities were unfashionable, T 230 ENGLISH LADIES ABROAD. and only seen under the colonnade of the Palais Royale. Although we observe none of our fair countrywomen so very much in a state of nature in society now, still they are guilty of as great and glaring improprieties in the eyes of foreigners, — such as staying for days and nights at convents, without any male friend, where the presence of ladies is only tolerated by matter of favour, being an infringement of strict monastic rules. At pub- lic spectacles, and among crowds in foreign cities, they are again conspicuous. If a lion is to be seen, no exertion of ai*ms, elbows, or lungs, is spared, to ensure a good position. I recollect see- ing a young lady crossing a square in Rome, hold- ing up her petticoats to her knees, to avoid splash- ing a gaudy silk gown, after a shower of rain, while the Romans smiled contemptuously at what they called her " brutta gambe ; " for a fine leg, or a well-turned ankle, would excuse even greater improprieties. This is by no means a general cen- sure ; for the propriety and modesty of the great majority of the fair sex in England, is as well known as the frequent dereliction of their natural character when abroad. At an early hour one fine November morning, a party of us assembled at the Cafe Greco, pre- paratory to an excursion to Tivoli, which we had contemplated for some days before ; and after a hasty cup of cotfee, we got into a caleche at the Piazza di Spagna. During the first part of the drive, our attention was engaged in taking a cursory view of ruins of baths, tombs and temples, strewed about the environs of Rome, which, notwithstanding the frightful description often given of them, in my TivoLi — Adrian's villa. 231 opinion possess uncommon grandeur. T am aware that, to an agi'iculturist, the sight of vineyards or corn-fields would be more pleasing ; but would the man of taste or the scholar wish for any alteration in that soil, which may be said to be as antique as the ruins which are still scattered over it ? Being yet untouched by the hand of modern culture, *• this long explored, but still exhaustless mine, " has been sacred to contemplation. We alighted at the cottage of a vine-dresser, now the entrance to what was once the superb Tibur- tine villa of Adrian, and made a complete circuit of the extensive grounds, embracing several miles. <' Here giant weeds a passage scarce allow To halls deserted, portals gaping wide ; Fresh lessons to the thinking bosom, how Vain are the pleasaunces on earth supplied. " What has already been traced out, of those re- mains shows on a grand scale the ruins of temples, baths, barracks, a naumachia and hippodrome, which appear almost equal to those of Rome itself. Adrian might be called great, were it not for an indelible stain on his character. He omitted nothing in this spot to gratify the most refined taste ; his palace, bibliotheca, and hospitalia for visitors, were all in a style of elegance and grandeur scarcely credible. The theatre is still partly remaining. The pleasure- grounds form a representation of the Elysian fields, the realms of Plato, and the beautiful temple at Thessaly. Another Peneus was made to flow near this spot, to recall to the mind of the luxurious Emperor the charms and associations of that de- lightful region, the Vale of Tempe. Tivoli, the Tibur of Horace, is not only interest- 232 TIBUR — CASCADE OF TIVOLI. ing from its enchanting situation, its ruins, its rocks, waterfals and splendid villas, but from the romantic and classic scenes which surround it, and which remind the spectator of Horace's correct descrip- tion. The house of the poet stands on the slope of the hill, amidst other classic remains of the Augustan age. On one side we beheld the villa in which Maecenas died, satiated with the luxuries of the world ; on another, the Temple of Hercules, and that above the cave from which the Sibyl dic- tated her oracles. On our arrival, we had accepted the proferred services of a cicerone, and were accordingly con- ducted over the regular routine, and compelled to listen to his tiresome, and often incorrect de- tails. What a jumble of historical names he made! We first descended to the grotto of Neptune ; then we admired the beautiful ruins of the small temple of Vesta, a circular cella, surrounded with a por- tico, of which ten Corinthian columns still remain. The cascade, although one of the finest in Italy, is artificial, like that of the Velino at Terni, but inferior to it in magnitude and eflfect. It appears singular enough, but the truth must be told, even at the risk of passing from the sublime to the ridi- culous, that the cascade of Tivoli had got out of order, and, when we saw it, was undergoing re- pairs ; the stream was therefore diverted from its usual channel, until the machinery connected with the adjoining rocks and banks could be reorganiz- ed. How very absurd it was to announce, that the cascade could not be got up in time for the present season, but would positively be ready for the next ! After making the whole circuit of the TtlE USTICA OP HOUACE. S33 charming environs of Tivoli, and listening to de- scriptions of every modern Italian villa, we return- ed by the lovely Cascatelles, — which compensated for the disappointment we experienced at the grander waterfal. We then recrossed the Anio (now the Tiverone) by the bridge of Lupus, pass- ing by the villa d'Este, the property of the Duke of Modena, a bastard branch of that ancient fa- mily ; and returned by the olive grove, through the Sabine gate, where we re-entered our tempo- rary quarters, after a few hours walk. I observed a chapel dedicated to the Madonna Quintilanea, where the villa of Quintilius Varus formerly was situated, and descried at a distance the three Mon- tecelli, the Campagna, and the plains of Latium ; in short, many of the scenes described by ancient poets. This landscape, seen on one of the finest autumnal days that the pure azure sky of Italy displays, embraced the Sabine hills, embosomed in which lies the valley of Rustica, the Ustica of Horace, offering a scene to which only the pencil of a Claude or a Poussin could do justice ; which two artists, the former especially, it is worthy of remark, passed annually several months of study here, and from the surrounding scenery many of their finest conceptions are taken. Soon after my arrival in Rome, I called to pre- sent a letter of credit from Coutts & Co. to Tor- Ionia & Co., or in other words, from the London banker the Duchess of St Albans, to the Roman banker the Duke of Bracciano. Oh the universal power of that sine qua non — wealth ! In common courtesy, I refrain from alluding to his Grace's ori- gin. Whatever it may be, no one will discover T 2 234 SOIREE AT TORLONIa's. ungentleinanly or ungraceful manners while get- ting his bank bills exchanged at Torlonia's count- ing-house, or partaking of the festivities of his splendid mansion, to which the circular introduc- tion will readily procure him an invitation. I made my appearance one evening in the midst of a gay throng, when all the beau monde of Rome were assembled at the Palazzo Bolognette Cenzi, now inhabited by Torlonia. Italian princes and prin- cesses, cardinals, foreign noblemen and ambassa- dors, with English of all classes, male and female^ composed the various groups I witnessed at the Ducal banker's soiree — for it was not a regular ball. There were many charming and fascinating Italian ladies of rank, sparkling with diamonds^ which, without poetry, I thought scarcely equalled the lustre of their eyes. Although the English season, properly speaking, had not then commen- ced in Rome — as the living avalanches were only descending the declivities of the Alps and Apen- nines — still a sufficient display of lovely interesting girls were assembled that evening to give a favour- able specimen of our fair countrywomen. Music, conversation and cards, were the amusements which this modern Croesus had provided for his guests. The concert-room was crowded with dillitanti, who paid attention to the excellent performers, and, which rarely occurs in England, the music seemed to be appreciated as a real, and not merely as an os- tensible source of attraction. But gold was the grand magnet. The faro table was surrounded by all ranks of every nation, and of both sexes. The votaries of Plutus evinced that eagerness and avi- dity which characterize gamblers every where ; and MONTE CAVALLO. 235 for the moment, even beauty and harmony lo8t their charms, or were forgotten in the sincerity of an idolatrous worship at the temple of the fa- vourite idol. The most striking difference between a Roman and a London route is, that in the for- mer the rooms are spacious enough for the com- pany, whilst in the other, a squeeze and an over- flow are not only indispensable, but appear to be the supreme delight of the assemblage, who seem desirous of punctually solving Bishop Berkeley's problem, of " how many human beings in a perpen- dicular position can a given number of square feet contain." On grand occasions Torlonia gives balls on a more magnificent scale, at a palace he has re- cently purchased in the Piazza di Termini, where all the vanity of the wealthy parvenu is display- ed in its marble galleries, painted ceilings and splendid columns, in the midst of which our Amphitrion retains his natural air, " plus interess6 qu'interessant. " Monte Cavallo was so called, from the colossal statues of Castor and Pollux that ornament its summit. Each of these figures is holding a horse by the bridle, the workmanship of Phidias and Praxiteles, if the modern Latin inscription on their pedestal is to be believed. Some antiquaries sup- pose that they originally stood at the corners of the base of Adrian's mausoleum, and were subse- quently placed in Constantine's baths on Mbns Quirinalis. It is not improbable that they might have been copies of two of the statues which Alex- ander ordered Lysippus to make, in honour of the royal horses killed at the battle of the Graniciis, brought from Dia in Macedon to Rome by Metel^ lus, nearly 300 yeais after. 236 THE QUiniNAL. Visited the Quirinal Palace. — I was much pleas- ed with the fine suit of apartments, which were occupied a few years ago by the Emperor of Austria during his visit to Rome, from the ef- fects of which visit, it is said, the pontifical trea- sury has scarcely yet recovered. Millions of crowns were then lavished ; and the Sacred College com- plains, that one of the most violent edicts against it was actually concocted in the Quirinal, and is- sued on the return of their Imperial guest to Vi- enna, as a reward for the splendid fetes and hos- pitable entertainment he had received at the Ro- man Court. To defray this expenditure, a new tax was levied on the people, who, of course, che- rish peculiar recollections of his Majesty, and their mistimed festivities — " les souvenirs chers et cruels. " The Quirinal Palace was the favourite residence of Pius VII. both before and after he was forcibly torn from it, despoiled of all external honours by the agents of Buonaparte, and confined in the most odious and unjust manner, first at Savona, after- wards at Fontainbleau. The pictures it contains are not numerous, but all of acknowledged excel- lence, including several of the proudest triumphs of Raphael's pencil, and other admirable produc- tions of the Roman school, the noblest and most important of any. On leaving the Quirinal, I viewed the column of Trajan, who aspired to be the best of Roman Emperors, desiring rather to be loved as a man than honoured as a sovereign. It was thus that he gained both the love and respect of the people, and inspired with dread only the enemies of his coun- PILLAR OF TRAJAN. 237 try. Trajan*8 magnificent pillar is encrusted with marble bas reliefs, illustrating his victories in Pa- cia, and it bas been faithfully imitated in bronze in the pillar of the Place Vendome in Paris, to repre- sent Napoleon's battles in Germany. The bronze gilt statue of the Imperial Roman, which sur- mounted this superb monument, having passed away, Sextus V. had it replaced by one of St Pe- ter, while that of his brother Apostle, St Paul, under the direction of the same Pontiff, succeed- ed M. Aurelius Antoninus in the Piazza Colon- na. The statues of these Roman Emperors kept their elevated stations longer than the French Im- perial conqueror, who has already yielded his, on the Colonne de la Place Vendome, Paris, to the white flag and its lilies, until a St Louis or a St Charles can be executed. I also took a passing glance at the arch of Janus Quadrifrons, a fine quadrilateral building perforated by two spacious passages, each side being thus occupied by a great arch; but it is unfortunately in a very bad position ; while Marcellus's theatre near it is in this respect still worse oiF, for its ruins are built upon, und form part of the walls of mean- looking houses, inhabited by the very dregs of the people. Four beautiful Corinthian columns of white marble, the remains of the portico of Octavia in the same quarter, now grace a fish- market. " Sic transit gloria mundi I " Strolling along the Strada Giulia, I obtained admittance into the Palazzo of Prince L. Spada, who has been long a prisoner at the Castle of St Angelo. I there saw Pompey's statue, said to be the same which bad been sprinkled with the blood 238 pompey's statue. of the Dictator. It is very interesting to view tlie imposing stem majesty of this heroic statue, which brings to our mind the memorable event of the death of Caesar, stabbed by his friend, who sacri- ficed private feeling to a sense of public good ; " but Brutus was an honourable man ! " Many doubts have been raised by antiquaries as to the identity of this statue ; some rejecting it, owing to the improbability of a Roman Consul being repre- sented with the globe of power, and a nude, ex- cept the chlamys, which constitutes the heroic statue — attributes which accord much better with the imperial master of the world, than with the republican general ; whilst others pretend to discover some likeness between this statue of Pompey the Great, and his features, as represent- ed on medals. Nay, they carry their fanciful hy- potheses so far as to assert, that a stain near the right knee was certainly caused by the blood of Caesar, Would the Senate of Rome have refused to erect an heroic statue to honour the conqueror in a hundred battles ? who subdued the East, and gave to his country an empire, whose triumph lasted two days, and was graced by innumerable trophies, and several captive kings ? The answer is obvious. But supposing the identity of this piece of marble to be a fiction, — for the play of the imagination may cause an erroneous judgment —it nevertheless operates as effectually on com- mon observers, and much more agreeably than plain matter of fact. There is little else worth seeing in the unfortunate Prince Spada*s palace, if we except an admirable design in alto relievo by Bernini, illustrating the rules of perspective, ac- cording to the proportions adopted by Vitruvius. THE VATICAN. 239 I occupied many agreeable hours inspecting the Arabesques, chiefly designed by Raphael, in the corridors or loggia of the Vatican, which are generally known by the very fine engravings of them by Volpato. I afterwards visited the stanze or chambers of Raphael, covered with frescos, both walls and ceiHngs, all designed or painted by that admirable master and his favourite pupil Giulio Romano. The most celebrated chef-dceuvre, here, is known as the School of Athens ; which is a misnomer, however ; for it ought rather to be call- ed the Progress of Science, so many philosophers and artists being introduced who flourished long after that school had ceased to exist. But any anachronism, in point of date or costume, is ex- cusable from such a pencil. Bramante figures in it, under the name of Archimedes, with whom Balthazar Castiglioni, Perugino, and Raphael him- self, are seen disputing the honour of immortality in the arts. The representation of the battle gained by Constantine at Pons Milvius, is regarded as one of the grandest displays of colouring. It oc- cupies one side of the Sala di Constantino, which is entirely decorated with the deeds of that Em- peror. His donation of Rome to St Silvester is not forgotten. It is represented in this fresco by the presentation of a golden image of the god- dess Roma to the Pope. It naturally occupies a conspicuous place in the Vatican, as one of the grounds on which his successors have found- ed their claim to temporal power, and the pos- session of the patrimony of St Peter's, which, except during short intervals, they have retained ever since. I spent several mornings amongst the 240 VATICAN LIBRARY. inexhaustible treasures of the Vatican library, one of the most valuable in the world. It owes its origin to Martin V., who brought a collection of MSS. from Avignon in the early part of the 15th century. Calistus III. employed many per- sons in Greece, England and Germany, collect- ing all the precious stores of literature, and tran- scribing MSS., to enrich it. Leo X. made con- siderable additions, and Sextus V. ordered Fon- tana to build the present library, which was thrown open for the use of the public by some of his venerable and learned successors. It was farther enriched by three valuable collections in the 17th century; 1^^, The Duke of Uibino's MSS.; Sc?, The extensive library of the Elector Palatine, who was driven from his capital by the Duke of Ba- varia ; Sd, That of Christina, Queen of Sweden, a great patroness of literature and the arts, who re- sided long in Rome, and bequeathed her library to the Vatican. It now consists of more than 70,000 volumes, besides MSS., and a large collec- tion of valuable objects of curiosity, modern and antique, of which the collection of vases is espe- cially valuable. The paintings on its walls and ceilings are well executed by Raphael Mengs, and many other able artists, who were employed in decorating them. There is also a collection of Chr'stian antiquities, formed by Pope Benedict XIV., and a small one of bronze statues and an- cient instruments ; likewise two magnificent can- delabra of Sevres porcelain, presented to Pius VII. as a reward for his crossing the Alps in the depth of winter, to anoint the head of Napoleon with the 8acred unction, the most subservient action of the ST PIETRO IN VINCOLI. 241 ^od Pope 8 life, and that of which he is said to have most sincerely repented. This humiliating memorial of Papal servility is preserved in the gallery of the Vatican ; but silence is maintained with regard to its history. In one of the build- ings attached to the museum, there is an esta- blishment of Mosaic painting, which is the prin- cipal school of that fine branch of art in Europe, now in so flourishing a state in Italy. Of the many splendid churches in Rome, few merit more particular attention than that of St Pietro in Vincoli, not so much for its fluted Ionic columns of marmo Greco, which separate the nave from the aisles, as for the tomb of Julius II. (della Rovera), which is adorned by the most sublime emanation of the genius of the greatest sculptor modern times has produced. This tomb is ad- orned by a statue of Moses, the work of Michael Angelo, which excels many of the exquisite pro- ductions of the Grecian school in originality ; and, for elevated propriety of expression, beauty of outline, and grandeur of conception, it still re- mains unapproached. The solemn and awful ma- jesty of this matchless piece of sculpture presents a boldness of conception characteristic of this great master's unrivalled powers ; but with characteristic excellences, it exhibits also much of the iri'egulari- ty and extravagance which distinguish unhappily many of the best productions of the author. One evening I directed my steps along the banks of the Yellow Tyber, to enjoy the tranquil hour of departing day. The river rolled turbidly along its lonely and desolate course, through the swampy plain, which had then been refreshed by 242 THE PANTHEON. autumnal rains after the summer heat. Before me was the bleak waste of the Campagna, bound- ed by a beautiful amphitheatre of hills, terminated by the Sabine mountains. Of these, the more dis- tant were enveloped in a vapour of a violet- colour- ed tint, while the last rays of the declining orb tinged their summits with gold, rapidly vanishing to illumine other points of the horizon. This prolonged the charm of closing day, exhibiting a deep expanse of blue, variegated by some superb tints, as they were yet visible in the west. I ap- proached that bridge, where, fifteen centuries be- fore, Constantine, under the religious influence of his sacred banner, " In hoc signo vinces," * aided by a good manoeuvre, from his own military in- spiration, conquered the rival Emperor, and over- turned the fanes of Polytheism, with all its oracles, deifications, games and divinations, converting the idolatrous temples of the Imperial masters of the world, into the gorgeous sanctuaries of a rational faith, which, from this spot, soon spread itself uni- versally over Europe. The Pantheon is now converted into a church, called Santa Maria della Rotonda, dedicated to all the Saints. Its portico is composed of eight columns in front, and a similar row within, of the Corinthian order. Its dome, well known as the finest in Europe, is 160 feet in diameter, and almost the same in height, having neither pillar nor win- dow, only a large round aperture in the top ; a peculiarity which, together with the shape of the edifice, renders it very unfit for the purposes of a * << Under this ensiga (the Cross) thou shalt sonquer." CAPITOLINE GALLERY. 243 Catholic place of worship. The light, which once fell on the statues of heathen gods, now shines upon the busts of an assemblage of modern great men, amongst whom are Dante, Petrarch, Ra- phael, Annibal Carracci, Palladio, Metestasio, and Corelli, some of whom, for their poetic, pictorial, or musical genius, are only not deified by their enthusiastic countrymen, who almost deem them worthy of the honours of an apotheosis. This noble fabric was built by Agrippa, one of the most magnificent patrons of ancient art, and pos- sesses that massive simplicity, severe grandeur, and enduring character, which pervaded all the efforts of early Roman industry. Its dome, the prototype of Santa Maria del Fiore at Florence, and of St Peter s at Rome, the proudest boast of modern architectural talent, is supposed to have been designed by Vitruvius, the great name in architecture of the Augustine age, to whom the city of the Caesars, and the art in general, are so much indebted. What a superb mausoleum the Pantheon would make I A society of eminent artists, of whom Canova was the head, and at whose expense the undertaking was chiefly carried on, with infinite taste and proper feeling, caused the busts of many illustrious individuals to be pla- ced in appropriate niches. One regrets that so magnificent a temple should not be exclusively set apart for memorials of the mighty dead. The Picture-gallery of the Capitol has few at- tractions, compared with the opposite wing, where some of the finest antique statues, which were scat- tered with such profusion throughout Italy, have been collected from every different source, and are 244- BATHS OF DIOCLESIAN. there deposited* The rooms, which contain hn8t« of the ancient philosophers, and of the Roman emperors, from the first Csesar to GaUienus, em- bracing a period of three centuries, excite tl«e > ost lively interest, from the recollections they call fort'«i. But, independently of their historical and classical interest, they are invaluable as exhibiting specie mens of the art during an important epoch, A- oiongst them are many pieces of sculpture, which would not suffer by comparison with the finest labours of Greece of the first ages. In the Ca- pitoline Gallery, the statues most deserving of attention, are, the Dying Gladiator, partly restor- ed in the arms and feet by Michael Angelo ; the Faun, ascribed to Praxiteles ; the basalt Centaui's ; the colossal statue of Pyrrhus ; the group of Cupid and Psyche ; and, above all, the admirable seated statue of Agrippina, which for drapery is the finest in existence, and whence the famous one of Napo- leon's mother was copied. I may also mention an invaluable little gem in this collection, described by Pliny, It is a beautiful mosaic, regarded by an- tiquaries as the original of Sosus, known as the Four Doves, which are represented playing on the side of a vessel full of water ; justly considered the chef-d ceuvre of the art of ancient mosaic. After enjoying an exquisite treat of a few hours, wM'e contemplating the ancient treasures enshrined with- in the venerable walls of the Capitol, I did not omit the view from the top of its tower, which is equal, and even preferable, in some respects, to that from the dome of St Peter a. There are no objects in Rome more interesting than the ancient Thermse. To give some idea of BATHS OF CARACALLA. 245 the extent of those of Dioclesian, I need merely mention, that the Piazza di Termini, the public granaries, the Pope's oil-cellar, the churches, con- vents, and gardens of the Carthusians, and the monks of St Bernard, occupy their site. The outer hall or rotunda of these baths is yet in a perfect state. It had formerly an aperture in its roof si- milar to that of the Pantheon, and is now a church dedicated to the Madonna degli Angeli. The four largest columns of Oriental granite which have ever been brought to Europe, support the dome ; and an equal number, in imitation of those large masses, has been put up to complete the effect. This is rather a solecism in Rome ; for however appropriate brick and plaster pillars may be in London, they seem quite out of place in Roman balnearea. The splendour of this noble edifice is mentioned by most ancient authors. A part of it is now the property of a community of Carthusian friars, who have very wisely availed themselves of the surrounding materials to build a magnificent convent, the cloister being part of the ancient struc- ture. The ruins of the baths of Caracalla still bear witness to the magnificence of that Imperial monster. The roofless walls of these immense piles of brick are still standing, open to the sky, and stripped of every ornament, including 200 su- perb marble columns, and 1600 seats of the same material, which they are said to have contained. Being situated in the midst of fields, far distant from any other building or human habitation, abandon- ed to woods and solitude, these frowning ruins appear in all the wildness of decay, contrasting u2 246 PAI.AT1NE HJtL. the more strongly with the splendour they once exhibited ; their isolated situation enabling the spectator to form a correct idea of their extent. The oblong hall or lobby, where loiterers waited their turn to bathe, served also for recreation, ex*- ercise, and instruction. There, philosophers were in the habit of lecturing ; and we have the autho« rity of Horace, that the porticoes were resorted to by poets to recite their verses. From the amazing number of statues, mosaics, and the rarest specimens of the fine arts, dug out of these ruins, and now scattered all over the public museums and private collections of Rome, we may judge of the luxurious and ornamental manner in which they were furnished. The pavements were inlaid with marble, and decorated with splendid mosaic ; and the walls and ceilings were covered with frescos. With a feeling of sadness, I viewed the exten- sive mass of ruins, on the Palatine Hill, where once stood the palace of the Caesars, now the gardens of the Villa Famese. This is also the site of the Circus Maximus, which was probably finally demolished by Paul III., the universal de- stroyer of antiquities. Here silence and desola- tion now reign ; the very soil is formed of frag- ments of old brick-work, tufo, and indurated plaster, which defy the most lynx-eyed, skilful, and persevering member of the Antiquarian So- ciety, to make out any intelligible vestige, or to discover the slightest clue to gratify his research, or lead to any satisfactory result. A visit to the monument of Cains Cestus, near the gate of St Paul, occupied me one afternoon. This proud stupenduous tomb, unlike Eastern py- TOMB OF CAIUS CESTUS. 2¥! ramids, " built by slaves for tyrants to moulder in, " transmits the name of Caius Cestus to pos- terity — and no more than the bare name. Unac- companied by glory, a stranger to fame, the page of history neither records civic virtues in the se- nate, nor heroic deeds in the field, achieved by this great unknown. Were it not for this splen- did monument, no trace of his existence would ever have reached after ages. History is silent regard- ing the mere rich man ; for wealth alone is no title to fame ; and he who is destitute of genius or valour, can only be accidentally handed down to posterity. Near the gate of St Paul is also situated the Eng- lish burying ground, or, more properly speaking, that of all foreigners not Catholics. A few insig- nificant tombs and paltry inscriptions vainly at- tempt to rescue from oblivion the names they re- cord. They can attract the attention of such only | as have to lament some friend or relative, who may j have found a resting-place in this classic soil. * ♦ For the sake of true genius, it is to be hoped that there is at least one exception from this conchision. A few years ago, the mortal remains of the Author of *' ffi/' perion, '* aad " The Eve of St Agnes, " were deposited in this " strangers' burying-ground " — See Shelley's Preface to ** Adonais, " Pisa, 1821, from which the following is an extract. ** John Keats died at Rome of consumption, in his twenty-fourth yeas, on the ^ — ^ of ---^ 1821 ; and Ayas buried in the romantic and lonely cemetery of the Protes- tants in that city, under the pyramid which is the tomb of Cestus, and the massy walls and towers, now moulder- ing and desolate, which formed the circuit of ancient Bome« The cemetery is ^.n open space among the ruins^ covered in winter with violets ajid daisies. It might m^ke one in love with death, to think that they should be buried in so swe^t a place. *' ^4^ ... . ^,.,.-; ^^^^f^'^j^^,-^:^ CHAPTER X* ROME CONTINUED. Th£re are many modes of killing time in Rome, without flying to the tiresome resources which "men about town" are tinder the necessity of adopt- ing in London. It does not, therefore, surprise me, that so many people of all classes, even down to the veriest cockney, who annually heretofore exchanged the foggy atmosphere of Cripplegate or Cheapside, for a trip to Margate, should now be induced to enjoy for a time the warm sun of Italy, and breathe the pure air of the south. For the mere lounger who has plenty of money to throw away, there is no want of attraction at Diez's and Rinaldi's. The Piazza di Spagna, Via di Con- dotti, or the Corso, hold out temptations enough in the shape of cameos, mosaics, medals and en- taglios, as many can testify, besides the more expensive luxuries of pictures and statues ; and one may have the pleasure of paying as dear for them in Rome as at Christie's or Robins's sales, all war- ranted genuine originals from the most celebrated masters ! There are also regular manufactories of antiques, which bear all the characteristic maiks TRANSTIVERE. 249 (rf twenty centuries, although not as many days from the workshop of some industrious Roman. Every ingenious expedient is tried, and not in vain, to get English money, a talisman, the possession of which, is a passport to the affectionate regard of our French, Swiss, and Italian friends, and I sin- cerely believe, the only recommendation we have in their eyes. Recollecting the old adage, " When youai^eat Rome," &c., I followed the general example of patronising modern artists, and selected a few memorials of the city of the Caesars, (al- though little skilled in numismatics), such as a few medals, covered with the rust of ages ; a mosaic cross, blessed by his Holiness, and some other tri- fles; availing myself of the opportunity the pur- chase of them afforded me, to take a review of the different branches of industry, which flourish in a great measure owing to foreign encouragement, oy, more properly speaking, gullability. I spent a day in the Transtivere, where there ia Btili observable a certain bold fierceness in the physiognomy and character of the Roman pear eantry, who reside on the right bank o^ the Tyber^ a characteristic which is not discoverable in any other district of the patrimony of St Peter. T^ese people form a distinct race, inheriting from their ancestors that local pride which Rome has always excited in its natives ; and, under an uncouth ex- terior, they are said to conceal hearts that beat nobly, with love and pride of their country. It was there I heard, for the last time, the beautiful and pathetic air of " JRrnna^ Roma ! non sei piu come era prima ! " * and under such circumstances, th^t * M Rome ! Rome ! thou art not as at first.*' 250 ST CECILIA. it can never be effaced from my memory. In this abode of the ancient Romans, the church of St Cecilia, the patroness of music, is worthy of a pilgrimage, that one may admire that lovely image of death, a statue of the Saint by Maderno. The interior is also adorned with a Madonna by Anni- bal Carracci. Just as I was leaving the Temple of Music, if I may use the expression, these in- spiring words, " Roma, Roma I " resounded in my ear, when turning the corner of the street, near the melancholy Farnesina Casino, in the grass- grown Lungara. I found that they proceeded from some itinerant musicians, one of whom was a beautiful black-eyed female, gifted with a voice which distinguished her even amongst the tuneful daughters of Italy. A few hours may be most agreeably spent at any time in the gallery of Cardinal Fesch, who is extremely liberal and polite to all strangers who are desirous of visiting his delightful palace, tickets not only being readily granted on application, but even sent to those who desire admission. His collection consists chiefly of the works of Flemish and Dutch masters, in which it is superior to any in Italy. It contains several by Teniers, Ruys- dael, Cuyp and Hobbima, of the very highest me- rit in their class. I have reason to believe that it would not be very difficult to prevail on his Emi- nence to part with some of them for a valuable consideration ; for, during his Imperial nephew's reign, he was extraordinarily lavish in his expen- diture, especially upon objects connected with the fine arts, of which he was a most judicious and munificent patron. He now possesses a gallery CARDINAL FESCH — THE JESUITS. 251 unsuited to his present income, which is so much curtailed, that he is in a great measure dependant on the allowance he enjoys as a Cardinal. It is even alleged, that he avails himself of the fortu- nate chance of any rich picture-fancier pitching upon some of those, in his collection, of which he entertains a less favourable opinion himself, to get rid of them suh rosa, in order to supply the exi- gencies of his establishment. The exterior of the Gesu church is as splendid as its interior is rich and magnificent. It was de- signed by the architect Vignola, and built at the expense of a Cardinal who died a member of the order of Jesuits. The altar of St Ignatius de Loyola, its illustrious founder, is pre-eminent in ornament, enriched with marble and precious stones, and decorated with some good bassi relievi by eminent sculptors, four superb pillars, and a globe of lapis lazuli. This is the principal church be- longing to the powerful and influential order of the Jesuits in Rome, which, if not the richest re- ligious society, is the most celebrated in Europe. The principles on which it was founded in 1555, established its power for more than two centuries, in Asia and America, as well as in every Catholic State of Europe, the members having been chosen as confessors to many crowned heads. The Jesuits, although extolled as the promul- gators of the best system of public education, have been proscribed and expelled no less than thirty-seven times since their first suppression by Ganganelli, from France, Italy, and Portugal. They have lately been restored in the two former countries, and, owing to their eminent talents^^ still feSS IRISH AND SCOTCH COLLEOJiS. maintain a greater sway thaYi the TOtariea of any other religious institution. The order is governed by a general, who is elected for life, and always resides in Rome. He is vested with absolute power in the appointment of all priors, and in every re* gulation connected with the constitution and inter* n^d management of the communities ovter which he presides. Both D' Alembert, and de Pradt ex-arch* bishop of Malines, have treated the subject of Je- suitism logically and impartially in their wMks. Doctor Fortis, a Venetian, is the present general. He was long chief of the college at Modena, where these worthy fathers took deeper root than in any other part of Europe, Friburg in Switzerland ex* cepted. He is a very old and infirm, but learned ttian, and much esteemed by literati. Resolved to visit some of the colleges of my own countrymen in Rome, I availed myself of the kind* iiess of a venerable Franciscan friar, to whose ser* vices I had previously been indebted as a ciceixwte at one of the church -ceremonies. He ushered me t!irough his own humble chapel and convent, which formed a striking contrast to t^e splendid esta- blishment of the Jesuits, which I had just lefU Instead of the riches and magnificence displayed by the latter, I found in the Iiish Franciscan con* vent od\v that which mendicants profess in their vows, self-denial, poverty, and contempt for world- ly grandeur. My next visit was to the Scotch tcollege, which is quite on as moderate a scale. Mr M , the rector, received me very politely, and sent one of the students to conduct me into the churdh, and to show me the whole establishment, "Whidi is in no way remarkable; nor did it present any object worthy of particular attention. There ASYLUM FOR ASSASSINS. 253 are i?eldom more than four priests, and about a dozen students in it. The Pope has lately published an edict, which has made him extremely unpopular. He has vat" stituted an asylum for assassins atOstia, and some other unhealthy towns, about ten leagues from Rome, with a view of increasing their population, though, it is to be feared, at the imminent risk of travellers passing near them. Sanctuaries were first suppressed by Urban V. in the fourteenth century. They were afterwards re-established, enabling men, though guilty of the greatest crimes, to shelter themselves, by seeking refuge in the court of a Cardinal's palace : and they were again abolished about forty years ago. They are now restored — for a short time only, it is to be hoped. The threshohi of a church in Rome cannot at pre- sent be passed by the assassin, whose hands, i^eek- ing in blood, would be raised in vain to demand an asylum from the ministers of that religion which he had outraged ; for even when in the act of beg- ging mercy of an offended God in his temple, he may be seized by the officers of justice, to expiate his dime. The higher orders of Romans cannot brook thte morgue nristocradque, or characteristic aiTogance of demeanour which Englishmen seldom attempt to conceal, even under an external show of polite- ness ; and by the lower classes they are still m of which the reverse shows a circuiBx and some connecting link to identify the locality. The tomb of Cecilia Metella would merit little notice, merely as that of the almost unknown wife of the Triumvir Crassus ; but, as one of the most remarkable monumental remains of the remote age in which she lived, it is deserving of attention, especially by the architect. Pursuing our ramble across the fields, after about an hour's walk, we approached some lofty walls on the Ostian road, unroofed and desolate, still bearing the marks of the fire, which, a few years ago, destroyed one of the finest churches ift Italy. The Basilica of St Paul belongs to a rich abbey of Benedictines of the congregation of Moun( Cassino ; and I rather think that the accident was attributed to the negligence of some workmen in their employment. The lay-brother who con-r ducted us through the cloister told us a confusecl story about the unfortunate occurrence, but he di4 pot seem to relish any questions upon the subject. We of course desisted, though he was perfectly civil. After introducing us into the church, he locked the door upon us, and walked off. We seated ourselves on the prostrate shaft of a maiblt* pillar, and contemplated, at leisure, the splendid wreck of this church, which contains part of the relics of St Paul. It was one of the first seven Christian places of worship built by Constantine, and finished by Theodosius. Most of its 120 splenr did marble pillars (which were taken from Adrian's tomb and Antoninus's baths in order to support the roof) h^ve been shattered. The pavement of the (^urch wfis strewed with bases, broken shafts BASILICON OF ST. PAUL. 959 capitals, fine marble slabs, and fragments of an entablature. The rebuilding of this edifice has been intrusted to a committee, with the Cardinal Delia Sommaglia as President. They have con- sulted the Academy of St Luca regarding the plan, and some trifling alterations have been suggested. The sum already collected amounts to upwards of 200,000 Roman scudi ; and the repairs having commenced, it is expected to be rebuilt in ten years, with all its former splendour. But the pre- cious remains of antique sculpture and inscrip- tions never can be replaced. White marble co- lumns are ordered from the quairies near Lago Maggiore, some of which had then arrived at Rome, to replace such as were destroyed. The fine pavements, mosaics, inscriptions, and bronze doors, are all in ruins. As to the portraits of Popes on the walls, their partial destruction is not much to be regretted ; indeed they reminded me of our Pope's witty allusion to some of the daubs which decorate old English mansions. " On painted ceilings you devoutly stare, Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and Laguerre. " I was much gratified by the view of this classical Basilicon, which contained four ranges of columns, separating it internally into five longitudinal divi- sions, similar, we may suppose, to other works of Metrodorus, the first Christian architect of the lower Empire. We then summoned our conductor to liberate us ; and, after thanking him for his trouble, re- sumed our walk, with the intention of visiting the Basilicon of St Sebastian, siti^ated about ^ 260 THE CATACOMBS. couple of miles from the Porta Capena, on the Appian Way. The only object that here claim- ed our particular attention, was a statue of the saint by Georgetti, better known as the Teacher of Bernini, an eminent architect and sculptor, who was master of the works to several successive Popes. There is an entrance to an extensive range of catacombs at this church. The exami- nation of these subterranean labyrinths, with their galleries and lateral passages diverging in every direction, detained us a long time, and interested us extremely. The subsoil of all the district to the east of Rome, is a stratum of volcanic tufo, of a red-brownish colour. Those excavations were formerly pozzuolane quarries, which occupied a vast space for miles around, and subsequently served as burying places for Christian martyrs. " Sepulti sunt via Appia, milliario secundo ab urbe, in loco qui vocatur ad Arenas. " * Many of the primitive Christians are also supposed to have hid them- selves in them, during the persecutions raised by Nero, and continued by most of his successors, till the reign of Constantine. They are of such vast extent, that they may be called a city under ground ; and though deeply interesting to posteri- ty, it is probable that they would, ere this, have been lost in obscurity, had they not proved a mine of relics to pious pilgrims from all Christendom, who have at last succeeded in carrying oif even the smallest relic of 170,000 Christian martyrs said to have been there interred. The finest palaces and best hotels in Rome are * They were buried on the Appian Way, two miles from the city, in a place called the Sand Quarries. FOREIGN ARTISTS. 261 now occupied by some of our opulent countrymeiv^ whose chief amusement consists in visiting church- es, galleries, and studios, exhausting their admira- tion on the ckef-cTcBUvres of painting and sculpture, and exploring the ruins of antiquity. As soon, however, as these objects are accomplished, their taste palls. Deprived of their usual society, and environed by new customs, ere many months have elapsed, they fall into a state of morbid sensibili- ty, or find themselves possessed by the demon of ennui, which can only be shaken off by flight. A first visit to the " Eternal City," therefore, is ge- nerally terminated by a rapid migration to Naples or Florence, where enjoyment is again made a toil, and, in their labours to be agreeable, are consi- dered by the rest of the world as insufl'erable. Very different from these heirs of wealth and rank do the foreign artists feel, who find in Rome a place of endless instruction and pleasure. They are, I think, its happiest residents. There is no species of enthusiasm which partakes less of the ridiculous, than that feeling which they entertain for their profession. They exhibit smiling faces, though they often wear shabby coats ; and are so much devoted to the theory and practice of their art, that they absolutely fancy there is nothing in the world worthy of attention, but painting and sculpture ; while they view men merely as their models, and consider themselves amply repaid by Nature when her works afford the sketch for a landscape. The Trinita di Monte is their favour- ite abode, and it is endeared to them as the spot where Salvator Rosa, N. Poussin, and Claude re- sided. The houses of these illustrious men were 262 thorwaldsem's studio. pointed out to me, and they are still occupied by- artists. Having devoted some time to the inspection of the picturesque and classic ruins of the Forum Romanum, and having inhaled the atmosphere of past centuries in the catacombs and tombs of the Scipios, I resolved one morning, as a variety, to visit, along with my friend, the Baron de B , the studio of Thorwaldsen, and some Roman sculptoi-s. In one corner of a large square, orna- mented, as is usual in this city, by a fountain in the centre, and overlooked by the massive Barbe- rini palace, built with travertine stone, pillaged from the Coliseum, we beheld immense blocks of Carrara marble, which almost impeded our entrance to the studio of Thorwaldsen. On gaining admis- sion, we had an opportunity of observing the progress of a statue, from its primitive state, while in the hands of different workmen. At first it appeared a huge unshapely block of marble — now exhibiting a rude outline of the human form — now approximating what it purported to represent, with its imperfec- tions rounded off — now developing still finer pro- portions — now dotted by the black marks of the artist — now improved in appearance by a fresh touch from his chisel — till, finally, all its beauties were perfected by the master-hand of the Dane himself. I was not fortunate enough to meet the genius loci on this occasion ; but, were I to judge by the busts which he has modelled of himself, I should say that he might justly be termed, " a hard-featured man of genius." The onginals of some, and the models of many, splendid works are in this studio, with innumerable busts of princes, thorwaldsen's studio. 263 lords, ladies, et hoc genus omne^ as well as many works yet unfinished. Amongst the latter, there are a very fine equestrian statue of Poniatowsky, one of Eugene Beauharnois, and the continuation of the celebrated frieze, illustrating the triumph of Alexander, ordered by Napoleon for the Qui- rinal Palace, when fitting it up as a residence for the young King of Rome, and which long since has been sold to the late Count Sommariva. The gi'eat work which now engages the Danish sculp- tor is the Saviour and Apostles, intended to adorn a church in the capital of his native country. The whole of these magnificent colossal statues are nearly finished, in the artist's usual admirable style. Among the models of his previous works, I par- ticularly remarked the Mercury, the Venus, and the Jason, fine studies for effect and character, and not inferior, in fidelity and nature, to the antiques of the Parthenon. The Adonis, too, is a perfect specimen of youthful masculine beauty, and reck- oned one of his best works. 1 was delighted also with a figure of Hope, infinitely superior to most antiques ; but, above all, with the two well-known and much admired aerial figures of Aurora and Night, of which every good collection or academy in Europe has got either a copy or a cast. No artist in Rome meets with so much encourage- ment, or merits it so deservedly, as Thorwaldsen. It is much to be regretted, that in Rome there is no Academy; institutions which are so ho- nourable to the French, Spanish, Neapolitan, and other governments. In these excellent establish- ments, a certain number of the most promising young artists are liberally pensioned, in cities 264 MODERN ROMAN ARTISTS. where they enjoy the double advantage of stndy* ing the best works of antiquity, and of receiving instruction from the most celebrated masters of the day. The little encouragement afforded to the fine arts by our own government, whether at home or abroad, has long been regarded as a national re- proach. That the charge cannot be fully I'epelled^ is undeniable ; and its truth may account in somie measure for the fact, that our artists excel their Continental rivals chiefly in portrait-painting, which gives such scope for the gratification of individual vanity, while they can only maintain an inferior station in the higher branches of the art. As the foundation for a national school of sculpture, we can, however, boast of the treasures of the British Museum, which, although limited, are of such in- estimable value as studies, that Canova declared it was worth taking a journey from Rome to Eng- land, for the purpose of viewing the Elgin marbles alone. It would fill volumes to enumerate the works of the many celebrated Roman sculptors whose stu* dii are open to the inspection of those who have any taste for the arts. Signore Baruzzi ranks among the first ; but Albaccini and Fiochetti are also ar- tists of great talent. The last studio we visited was that of Signore Trente Nove. I found rather a sameness, not only in the unfinished works of this able sculptor, but also in those of several of his brother artists, which I defy the cant of cice- ronism, or even the elaborate criticisms of the most accomplished connoisseur, to render interest* ing. In fact, I question if any person, except a sculptor, can sufl&ciently f^preciate the merit of FOREIGN ARTISTS. 265 embryo statues. A host of German artists re- side in Rome, some of whom have already ac- quired celebrity, and others give indications of future excellence. They have an annual exhibi- tion pf their works, which are highly and deserved- ly admired. Schnetz, Cornelius, Weiss, and Leo- ppld, are the painters of most distinguished talent; the flower-pieces of Serft,,as well as the landscapes of Koch, evince very considerable genius. Among our own countrymen, there are many painters of ppnsiderable promise; for instance, Severn inland- scape, and Davis in historical painting. Wilkie, lyhile at Rome, painted several pictures; but it is much to be regretted that he left none be-? hind him as specimens of his peculiar and pleas- ing style ; and many of Turner's finest landscapes were painted under the pure sky, and amidst the delightful scenery of Italy. In the sister art, Gib^ son probably ranks next to Thorwaldsen ; and al- though still a young man, has executed many per- formances of very high merit. Campbell has great ability as a sculptor, and particularly excels in busts ; and for the anatomical correctness of his figures is remarkable. GofF, in delineating ani- mals, surpasses every other artist. Rennie, a ne- phew of the late eminent engineer of the same name, is an artist of promise, especially with re- spect to the classical antique style of his figures. I was obliged to content myself with a rapid view of the College of the Sapienza, and that of the Congregation of Propaganda Fide, so re- nowned as the parent establishment of the different missions in partibus infidelium. The many libraries in Rome would each require 266 POPULATION. days to be examined properly ; but unless one can enjoy something more of books and MSS. than the mere sight of their fine binding, or the embellish- ments of their illuminated pages, the mind is ra- ther tantalized than either gratified or instructed. If, as we are told, the population of Rome ex- ceeded six millions, when a census was taken dur- ing the reign of Claudius, it is impossible that the space included within its present walls could have contained more than an insignificant fraction of such a number of human beings. The city was then said to have covered a circumference of 50 miles. In the fourth century, the population had been diminished to little more than one million ; and in the fourteenth, during the constant warfare carried on between rival factions, it fell so low as 33,000, which was the minimum. At present, it is calculated to contain about 150,000 inhabit- ants. According to the census of 1826, the po- pulation of Rome presented the following clas- sification in round numbers : — ^ 10,000 Jews and Foreigners, 1,500 Priests, Prelates, &c. 1,700 Monks and Friars, 1,400 Nuns, 1,000 Sick in the hospitals, 800 Confined in prisons. It is difficult to ascertain the exact annual re- venue of the Roman Court, it is so very irregular and uncertain. It arises partly from annats and dispensations from foreign countries, but princi- pally from internal taxation, comprising only a REVENUE. S67 small proportion from customhouse duties in the sea-ports ; for although this fertile and beautiful part of Italy, committed to the care of the Roman Pontiffs, possesses many natural advantages — with a soil capable of yielding every useful production — bounded by two seas, and watered by numerous rivers, national industry is impeded, and the springs of commerce are almost completely absorbed. Be- fore the French invasion of Italy, and the consequent dismemberment of the patrimony of StPeter — which, by diminishing the number of contributors, as well as impoverishing them, of course lessened the reve- nue — it was calculated at three millions of Roman scudi, rather more than 600,000/. The greater part of this sum was once erroneously supposed to be derived from other Catholic countries ; but it has been correctly ascertained, that even France — probably the richest and most productive source — previously to the Revolution, never paid more than 70,000 crowns a year. In Spain and Germany, the annats have been either abolished or bought off; and the other ecclesiastical contributions, in the shape of dispensations to contract marriages, to hold livings, and to perform other functions, contrary to the prescriptions of the Canon law, added very little to the Papal revenues, being chiefly swallow- ed up in the legal and official expenses of the Ruota, Cancellaria, and other spiritual courts through which they necessarily passed. It is ge- nemlly supposed that pilgrims bring wealth to Rome. This is an egregious mistake, unless he- retical pilgrims are meant ! English and Russian visitors are always the most welcome, because they increase the circulating medium, by the vast sums 268 PILGRIMS. •: in foreign coin which they bring with them r and their annual expenditure is an object of anoazing importance to the Romans. But the generality of pilgrims from Catholic countries are said to bring little save filth, beggary, and devotion, from all Europe to its ancient capital, where they are lodg- ed, fed, and even clothed in hospitals, which are endowed for their reception and maintenance, and which, I understand, contain at this moment sik or seven hundred persons who are thus charitably supported. In the " Anno Santo, " (1825), during the Jubilee, there were nearly as many thousands, who resorted to Rome to gain plenary indulgence at St Peter's, half of whom were provided for at the public expense. If the sources of revenue arising from voluntary contributions from the mon^ pious and devout classes, have diminished during the present and the last Pontificate, those' Oerived from taxation have certainly increased in an equal proportion. The present income, therefore, of the Papal court may be fairly estimated as high as it was during the reign of Pius VI. ; and since the legation of Bologna (the richest and most produci-* tive part of his Holiness's territories), Ferfara, Ancona, Ravenna, and the principalities of Bene- vento and Ponte Corvo, have been restored, it may be calculated that, from every channel, including foreign countries, the treasury is in the annual re- ceipt of 3,300,000 scudi, equal to about 800,000/; The public debt, which is funded, is small, and does not exceed a few years revenue ; and as the interest upon it is regularly paid, the stock sells at a high price, generally about par. Torlonia, the Papal banker, and contractor for the loan, is GOVERNMENT. 269 partly indebted for his dukedom to the business which he transacts. Popery is generally regarded as an anoma- ly in modern civilization, blending, as it does, the supreme temporal with the highest spiritual power. Only in the former light, of course, can it be considered objectionable ; but, were the Pope divested of his political independence, he would then be under the controul of some foreign State ; whereas, in his capacity of a sovereign Prince, he is unrestrained by any party, and his temporal power thus serves as the safest guarantee of his neutrality towards all. The Pope is an absolute monarch. The jurisdiction of the Cardinals, who constitute the Consistory, extends only to eccle- siastical affairs, not interfering with the civil go- vernment, which is administered by the Secretary of State in the capital, and by Legates, or Vice- Legates in the provinces. The Podestas, Judges, and most of the civil officers in the Roman States, are generally selected from among the clergy. The Sacro Collegio, when complete, consists of 72 members ; but, at present, there are only about 60. When a vacancy occurs, the election of a successor to the supreme Pontiif is vested in this body, that is, the Cardinals, and six suffragan Bishops, who compose the Conclave. Seldom more than 30 attend, some being prevented by old age, and others being unable to travel from France, Spain, and Germany, where twelve of the Cardi- nals now reside. Candidates for the triple tiara must be > Italians by birth, 53 years of age, and neither appointed at the recommendation of, nor related to, any foreign sovereign. The power of y2 2*10 REMARKS ON the Emperor in Italy is as great as it is cletri*^ mental ; and in the event of the demise of Leo XII. besides direct influence in the Conclave, Prince Metternich would employ able negotiation and adroit management to elevate to the Papal throne an adherent of Francis, on "whom he could reckon as a willing instrument to consolidate the Austrian domination in Italy. But there are at present five French Cardinals, men of talent, assisted by thier influence of the French ambassador, in the Papal coteries, and backed by that of ** la Grande Na-^ tion, " to which great importance is attached; bo that a pretty equal struggle is generally expected to take place between the candidates recommend* ed by the two preponderating parties. These two powers, as well as Spain, have a negative veto ; but the latter has now little influence at Rome. Bavaria, Naples, and Portugal are too insignificant to exert themselves successfully, iii a direct manner, over the decision of the Car- dinals ; and the greatest external precautions are taken to guard against intrigue, and to prevent any improper communication from reaching the Vatican during the deliberations of the venerable body. • ' — When about to leave Rome, after an agreeable residence of several weeks, it is almost unnecessary to say that I felt considerable regret — and that I should probably have been induced to remain dur- ing the winter, had I not happened to be of a tem- perament which requires locomotion. Possessing veiy little of that melancholic disposition which can be satisfied with the same studies in the same easy chair for months together, without the least desire LEAVING ROME. 271 for change, a love of novelty made the idea of stay- ing even in Rome itself repugnant to me — the more so, that much of Italy still remained unexplored. I therefore determined on here closing my account of the " Eternal City, " and I sallied forth in order to make inquiries about a conveyance for Siena. CHAPTER XL TUSCANY. November 25th, — A convivial parting with my Roman friends the preceding evening, and the neglect of a lubberly cameriere, occasioned my re- maining fast asleep until aroused at seven o'clock in the morning by the Florentine Vetturino, Me- cocci, whose carriage was already in waiting. An hour afterwards, my portmanteaus and self were at the door, where I found an elderly gen- tleman-like personage, decorated with a red rib- bon at his button-hole, which appeared between the loose folds of a large cloak in which he was enveloped. The poor man kept walking up and down the street at a rapid pace, to guard himself against the effects of the cold and bracing tramon- tana of November ; but returned my bow with a cordiality which I did not deserve, as I had kept him waiting so long. I attributed the delay, however, more to the lazy waiter, who had ne- glected to call me at the hour appointed, than to the real cause, the effects of my nocturnal con- viviality. We picked up another traveller at the Porta del Popolo, who was accompanied by TOMB OF NERO. 2KS bis wife as far as la Storta, the first stage. Frdixi thence she walked back to Rome, under the es- cort of her compare, a stout good-looking fellow, who, I doubt not, did the utmost in his power to console the lady during her husband's absence 5 more particularly as she was young and rather handsome, and seemed so little affected at the parting interview, that the poor fellow told me (after the interkissing was over between himself, his wife, and her companion), that he was quite shocked she did not even shed a parting tear. Of course I sympathized with him in his affliction; and, by way of consolation, sang a strophe of the French air, which begins — ** Pauvres maris, qui voyagent, Voyez le sort que vous attend. '* * I once more crossed the Ponte Molle, aftef passing the straight well-paved rdad, with its ave- nue of trees from the city gate, and proceeded ra- pidly over the Gampagna, where the picturesque ruin, called by the popular voice, " il Sepolchro di Nerone, " f was pointed out to me as an object worthy of attention, though it is well known that Nero's real tomb, instead of being one of the mo- numents on this dreary waste, was situated at the Piazza del Popolo, on the spot where a church dedicated to the Madonna now stands ; besides this monument is evidently Gothic. We arrived at an early hour at Ronciglione, and supped in company with the late Cardinal • Luckless husbands that would roam, See your certain fate at home. f The Tomb of Nero. 274 CARDINAL GONSALVI. Gonsalvi's secretary and his family, who were re- turning to Rome from villeggiatura. The secre- tary told me many interesting anecdotes of his Eminence, who is now the more regretted hy all classes, as his successor pursues so unpopular a line of conduct in the recent acts of his adminis- tration. He also confirmed me in what I had often heard of Gonsalvi's great partiality for the English. Ronciglione is a rich and populous place near the banks of the lake Vico ; although I can- not say that I saw much of it, as we set off rather early in the morning. The deep and fine valley we passed through, offers some picturesque points of view; but agriculture being almost neglected in this district, the fields have a bleak and ban-en aspect. After passing Viterbo, the country improved in appearance, being much better cultivated, and as we approached Monte Fiascone, I was afford- ed an opportunity of tasting the well-known wine of its vineyards ; but fortunately I was not so much captivated with its excellence as a certain German bishop who stopped here on his return from Rome, and is said to have fallen a victim to his over zealous sacrifices to Bacchus. I think the Monte Fiascone inferior to Tuscan wine, the best of which is decidedly the Monte Pulciano, which is very similar in taste to weak claret, though without its flavour. Orvieto and Alea- tico wines are those in most common use at Rome and Florence. In the Roman States, the cultiva- tors of the soil are rarely seen in their fields, ex- cept at seed-time and harvest, or during the vint- age, after which they resort to large villages, or NATIONAL CHARACTER. 275 the suburbs of towns. The country is thus des- titute of hamlets and a rural population ; and the rustic scenes of northern climates, even such as those of Lorabardy and Tuscany, are therefore unknown in the south of Italy. On the high road, we met occasionally some country women, with their hair fantastically braid- ed, wearing short petticoats of the most glaring colours, and boddices open at the bosom, laced with ribbons. We also saw labourers driving bul- lock-cars, and waggons drawn by mules adorn- ed with little bells, herds of goats, half-naked children, pilgrims, mendicants, and penitents on their way to Rome. An air of good humour, however, was generally prevalent amongst the peasantry, male and female, and that of curiosity no less so, though all refrained from indulging it. No national character has been more calumniated amongst us, than that of the Italians. I think it is Eustace who remarks, that if a romance-writer wishes to create an assassin, a deep designing vil- lain, or any depraved monster — Italy is always the country where he fixes his nativity. On the stage, the same laudable practice prevails. Thus, from our earliest years, Italians are identified in our minds with every thing vile and villanous in hu- man nature ; and thus the most horrible and un- founded prejudices are gratuitously inculcated by ignorant or malicious writers ; but I am convinced that when the Italians are closely examined, they will not be found deficient in patience, courage, or genius. They possess some superior, and even noble customs, while deep traces may yet be dis- - covered amongst them, of the manners of their Roman ancestors. 276 THE MAREMMA — BOLSENA. There is a remarkable hill not fot from Monte Fiascone, nearly covered with regular prismatic basaltic pillars, some of them standing obliquely a good way out of the ground. Many rocks of ba- salt are found in the same neighbourhood. The substratum of the soil in the country we passed near Radicofane, is chiefly calcareous tufo, or the limestone family, and on the summit of that moun- tain are seen some traces of an extinct volcano. Further to the left, on a line extending from Ra- dicofane to Siena, running parallel with the sea- coast, lies the very extensive tract of land called the Maremma, which is very insalubrious, as the mal- aria prevails there all the year round. Convicts are sometimes sent to work in its mines, a more severe punishment than hard labour on the fortifi- cations, or even the galleys, owing to the pesti- lential climate of that dreary desert, which possesses no oasis. It belongs to the Tuscan States, where capital punishment was abolished by the Grand Duke Leopold, who substituted a modified linger- ing death, by hard labour in the iron mines or ealt marshes of this region— the most unwholesome in all Europe. Bolsena is built on the ruins of the ancient ca- pital of the Volscians. Its environs, as well as its beautiful lake, are truly delightful, and its two small picturesque islets must be recollected with pleasure by every one who has visited them and explored their banks. I was highly amused with the travels of a French judge, relative to this part of the country. Amongst other novel and authentic information, he gravely describes Hannibal's vic- tory over Flaminius to have happened near this SAN LORENZO. 2T7 lake, which he calls Thrasimene, mistaking it for tJiie, Jake of Perugia on the east road ! . There is nothing in the situation or appearance of the old town of San Lorenzo to indicate the cause of its having been abandoned, for both are highly picturesque. It seems, however, that the malaria which prevailed to such a degree, was the typhon that induced Pius VI. t^o build a new town on a more healthy spot, to which he gave the same name. It by no means answers the descriptions which have been applied to it, and which pronounce it the handsomest village in Italy. Although built with perfect regularity on a rising ground, the houses look dirty, and are thinly inhabited. As a natural consequence there are few wealthy people settled in a place so destitute of attrac- tions. We were escorted by one of the clergymen, who acted here as magistrate, to view his extensive government, including a couple of churches, not worth notice, in this country of fine churches. In return for his civility, we gave him an invitation to sup with us, which he accepted. Our party was next augmented by the travellers from another coach, which was proceeding to Florence. These consisted of a French painter of great celebrity, C n, who had been ten years in Rome, and two Belgian artists, one of whom had just married a lively pretty little Italian. She was the only female in the group, and, strange to say, she had never heard of either Tasso or Ariosto. There was yet another traveller who joined us, a genteel but rather wild-looking young Fleming, who ap- peared much fatigued and care-worn. We found him sitting in the kitchen when we arrived ; and t^p 278 FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. told US he had served as a volunteer with the Greeks ; attained the rank of captain, but got no pay, and was so far on his way home, having been disgust- ed with them and their cause. He had walked from Rome ; but being acquainted with the Bel- gian painters, he engaged a place in their coach for the remainder of the journey. A circumstance occurred at Radicofane which was productive of very disagreeable consequences ; the company of both vehicles met at the inn, and ordered collatione to be served up at the same table. The artists, however, thought, that owing to our having agreed with the vetturino to cater for us, (an arrangement I made in order to save trouble and imposition), we were neither so well nor so plentifully served as we would have been had we paid for our repast separately. Be that as it may, after drinking copiously of the far-famed Monte Pulciano wine, the Frenchman became par- ticularly elevated, and in passing through the kit- chen, he observed several vetturini eating, drink- ing, and enjoying themselves. Upon this he thought proper to espouse our cause, by reproach- ing our fellow, and complained of the scanty portion of omelette which had been provided for us. High words and threatening language ensued, and this led to the common result — a scuffle. One of the Belgians, a very spirited and hasty tempered man, struck one of the Italians ; but on hearing the noise, we hurried down to the combatants, and succeeded in restoring order amongst them for a time. We soon after resumed our journey ; the artists and their Greek friend walking a few miles on before us. The caniage stopped to pick them AFFRAY AT RADICOFANE. 219 Up at a solitary retired spot, far from any habitation ; when Monsieur C , provoked at the fellow's sneering and impertinent look as he passed, broke the truce by striking one of the vetturini. Instantly we all jumped out, and then ensued a general bat- tle, in which every one took part, except the little painter, who kept out of the way in order to take care of his.cara sposa. We were, however, pretty equally matched, the three vetturini being joined by our fellow-traveller, who considered it quite a na- tional quarrel ; whilst on the other side, the two artists, the Greek and myself, made common cause. Although we had neither swords nor fire-ai'ms, thanks to our sticks and whips, there was some bloodshed. The Florentines are not so blood- thirsty as the Romans, who generally carry stilettos. We were thus far fortunate ; for had our coachmen been natives of almost any other part of Italy, the consequences might have proved fatal ; and it fre- quently occurs in these cases that the innocent are the sufferers. So it was in this instance ; for the poor Cavaliere di San Leopoldo did not certain- ly deserve the fate he met with, he being the only neutral power, having exerted his utmost endeav- ours to arrange the affair amicably. While reason- ing with his refractory countrymen, and stepping between them and their antagonists, one of the former, who had been floored, and was stunned and stupified by the blow, in the act of reco- vering his feet, instinctively had recourse to the ultima ratio. Laying about him indiscriminately on friends and foes, he dealt out a tremendous blow with the but-end of his whip on the worthy ca- valier's head, which laid open part of his skull ; and 280 BUOH eONVENTO. •- oh seeing liim fall, tliere was a geijeral (Cessation oF hostilities— the Italians having by that time gdt an unmercifiir beating. The poor lady wh6' wit- nessed the ' affray was in hysterics *lh th6 artns of liier husband, and he himseVf was almbst as frightf- ^ned. lii the mean time, we laid our* unfbrtunat'e companion in the carnage, bound up his he^d, ^tid after much difficulty, again proceeded on oiir jouN ney, intending to stop at Tbrriniete. Unluckily, however, we could not get accommodatidii at the inn, and Were therefore obliged to go on six' miles further to Buon Con Verito, where the great Em- peror, Henry of Gei'many, was poisoned by a monk, khd where our friend might thus have di^d m gobd company! On our arrival d surgeon and notat- i*y were sent for, to dres^ the wounds of the fcavaliere, and two of the y^t'turini, who W^re much hurt/ I thought our poor frifend irltendfe'fl to make his will; biit "he waived that Cere frtony, contenting himself with having ai proces-vet'bal drawn up, containing the deposition of' witnesses, in order that the necessary step's mi^ht be pui*- stied before the proper authorities on our arrival at Siena. ' ' ' '"' Next morning, the fik*st intelligence we heafd was, that the principal aggressor in the affray, who Was a stranger vetturino returning from Rome, of whom the others had hired exira horses for thfe feteep hills, had very judiciously absconded; and in consideration of the remaining culprits expressing their contrition, and having humbly begged par- don, the good natured cavaliere consented to quash all further proceedings, although quite weak and feverish, from the effect of his wound, at the SIENA. 281 time. This was certainly very kind on his part, he having suffered severely ; while we were de- prived of his lively sallies and agreeable conver- sation, during the remainder of the journey, as well as the society of the party in the other coach, who were compelled by this untoward occuiTence, to order their meals in a separate room, or stop at different inns, to avoid the possibility of any fresh collision. We beheld from a considerable distance the ce- lebrated Tuscan city of Siena, situated upon a rising ground, surrounded by hills. Although it has not much to boast of, being now in a state of decay, I proposed spending a day or two within its walls, to avail myself of the opportunity of seeing every thing which it presented worthy of attention. I commenced my survey with the Ca- thedral, and closed it with the Academy of Fine Arts. The former is a Gothic edifice of singular richness, crowded with ornament, outside and in. It is encrusted with checquered work of black and white marble, designed by Giovanni da Pisa, but executed by native architects, and said to be per- fect of its kind. The grand altar, its gorgeous ornaments, and columns of porphyry, rivetted my attention. The roof is rich, though somewhat gau- dily painted and gilded ; but I thought the squat cupola and belfry rather in bad taste. The mosaic pavement is also overdone ; — in short, the spirit of decoration is carried throughout to too high a pitch. There are, however, some designs in the interior of the church, (especially in the Chigi chapel), possessed of merit. Among others it contains many admirable statues by Bernini, and z 2 28S. SIENA. Donatello, and some excellent paintings by Cala- brese, Perugino, and Carlo Maratta. The walls of the large apartment, called the library, are co- vered with frescoes (designed by Raphael, and executed by Pintureccio), representing the life of iEneas Silvius, Bishop of Siena, a man of much celebrity as an author and a diplomatist, and who afterwaids became Pope under the name of Pius 11. I regarded them with interest, more particularly the first of the series, which is ascribed to Raphael, and which is worthy of him in his best days. I was astonished by their freshness of colouring. In point of books, this library contains only a few illuminated missals, and, what is an extraordinary ornament for such a place, an antique group of the Graces, in white marble, placed in rather a con- spicuous situation in the centre of the saloon. Though mutilated, it presents a perfect union of feminine loveliness, with truly Grecian dignity of expression. I would not recommend young artists to choose Siena as a residence, unless they wish to copy the dry stiff style of painting practised by the early masters on the revival of the arts. In some of the specimens at the academy, a disregard of perspective is observable ; and there is scarcely a single picture of excellence although it possesses works of Cimabue, Giotto Margaritoni, Simon, Balthazar, Peruzzi, and Marco di Siena. This city has some essential points in its favour, for it is kept very clean, and the people appear to be perfectly civil, and well-disposed towards strangers. The Piazza del Campo contains half a dozen noble- men's palaces, with pictured roofs and marble floors, that excite feelings of sadness, as indicative of their ITALIAN REPUBLICS. S83 form^* splendour, which one cannot refrain from comparing with their present dilapidated condition. None of the streets run in a straight line ; for the nature of the ground would not admit of mathe- matical precision being adhered to, in the original plan on which the houses were built. Irregularity is the only order observable ; all is up and down hill ; and some of the lanes are like flights of stairs, while others run in a zig-zag form, — a circum- stance which is satisfactorily accounted for, by the supposition that Siena has been built upon the crater of an ancient volcano, being situated on the truncated top of a tufo mountain. Besides, geolo- gists have pronounced the soil for many miles round to be volcanic. The population of this place has fallen oif from 100,000 to little more than one- fifth of that number. Many of the houses are built of brick covered with plaster, the worse for age, and which, notwithstanding their antique style of architecture, have rather a naked appearance. Siena possesses a university and museum, as well as several literary and scientific institutions. Some few English families, attracted by the cheapness of living, and the pure Tuscan language of the inha- bitants, reside amongst them ; but such dull mo- notonous quarters are by no means to be envied. The confined territory of Siena, like Pisa, Lucca, Parma and Ferrara, formed one of those petty re- publics, which sprung up after each other, in Tus- cany and Lombardy, in the interval left by the crumbling of greater powers, after a long strug- gle for liberty. These little commonwealths were equally turbulent and vain. They enjoyed the name of liberty> but were niled by some ambiti- 284 TUSCAN INNS. OU8 demagogue, whose great aim seemed to be to keep them constantly waning with each other. Nevertheless, they flourished in the midst of per- petual hostility ; bearing a striking resemblance to the cities of ancient Greece which may be traced, in the Pisans and Florentines having affectedly imitat- ed the gallant Spartans and polished Athenians ; al- though Pisa acted Lacedemon less successfully than Florence did Attica. The neighbourhood of Si- ena is not to be compared to that of Florence, though the women are as much famed for their beauty, politeness, and the elegance of their lan- guage, as those of the capital. Throughout the Tuscan States, I have seen many beautiful pea- sant girls, who generally wear straw-bonnets of their own manufacture, or black hats and feathers, with a costume which shows off their light and graceful forms to every advantage. Their coun- tenances are often lighted up by a glad feeling of enjoyment. Their bright eyes, and an intelli- gent, though somewhat cunning expression about the mouth, give them a lively animated air, de- void however of any appearance of sensuality. The cavaliere, who had also remained in order to recruit after his accident, accompanied me from Siena to Poggibonzi, where we stopped all night at a good inn, the last resting-place for travellers from Rome to Florence, and which presents a very favourable specimen of a Tuscan albergo. Its large apartments, with stone-floors and walls of an en- ormous thickness, renders their interior imper- vious to the heat, a very essential point in sum- mer, though unfortunately not so well calculat- ed to operate against the cold of winter. Few VAL d' ARNOr-rFIESOLE. 285 M"' the rooms have fire-places; and in those that h^Ve thetn, fires are seldom lighted unless tra- vellers order it, and while it is preparing are con- tent to take shelter in the kitchen. In Tuscany nothing can excel in beauty the lines of the horizon, the gentle inclination of the plains, or the soft outlines of the mountains Which bound them. The valleys assume the fofm of art arena, while the hills appear to hav-e been cut into terraces by some mighty and in- visible hand ; and a peculiar dense vapour is bften spread over the more distant objects, re- moving all * harshness, and lieaving the whole in varied and harmonious beauty. I perceived, occa- sionally, well wooded hills shut in by the lofty Aptentiines, with here and there a handsome villa ; aiid as we iapproached the Val d' Amo, the grace- ful fefetoons of riie vines formed a still more attrac- tive object of admiration. The mode of cultivat- ing the vineyards in Italy, where the viiies are ti'ained on trees in fields sown with corn, tehds to present a mucfh more picturesque appearance than the serubbj^ little vines in France and Portugal ; but although the climate of Italy is equally fine, I do not believe that^ the Italian method of culture tehds to improve the quality of the wine. On the contrary, I have generally found it to be in an in- ver^e ratio to the beauty of the vineyards. The most romantic part of the journey, and that which afforded me the greatest pleasure, was when I first beheld Florence from the south, with its towers, domes, and palaces ; and Fiesole upon the mount beyond it. I was then at a distance of about six miles, at the top of a steep hill, with 286 FLOKENCE — ANECDOTE. wood and rock on every side. I immediately got out of the carriage, the better to enjoy the fine and extensive prospect, as the winding road presented, at every turn, variety in the landscape. Shortly afterwards we reached Florence. On pointing out a fresco at the Porta Romana, my companion told me an anecdote relating to it. It seems the Florentines were desirous that a celebrated Koman painter should be invited from Rome to ornament some public buildings in Florence. On his aiTival at this gate, he made inquiries re- garding the artist who executed it ; and being told that it was the work of Pietro Cortona, a native of Florence, he replied, ** If that is the case, I have no right to exercise my pencil in a city which al- ready possesses so eminent a master." With this remark he left the place, and retraced his steps to the Eternal City. The cavaliere happened to be a Florentine himself, and here we parted. I found him a kind obliging man ; but to my no small dis- may, he gave me a parting salutation, much too cor- dial, which I would willingly have excused. This practice is not peculiar to Italy. In France, men very frequently kiss each other on taking leave, or on meeting after a long absence. On the strength of my friend's recommenda- tion, I went to the Albergo d'Europa, instead of Madame Hombert's, where I had formerly lodged ; but I had reason, however, to regret the change, which was decidedly for the worse. The landlord's tarif of charges was apparently moderate enough ; but he evinced a dishonest disposition ; and the waiters seemed quite puzzled to get up a common English breakfast of tea and OPERA OF LA PERGOLA. 287 e^. I therefore resolved not to try their din- ners, fearing these might prove equally bad, but went to an excellent French restaurateur's on the Lung Arno, where I discovered my first fellow- traveller in Italy, Mr T , at dinner. We were happy to meet again, and talked over our adven- tures, while enjoying our bottle of Marsala, a white Sicilian wine, extremely like pale sherry, and which I found a most agreeable variety, after the light Tuscan red wines, of which I had got quite tired. Since we parted Mr T had visited Turin, and his favourite Protestant valleys in Piedmont. In the evening I visited the Pergola theatre, to witness an opera-seria. The house is large and handsome, and possesses a good orchestra. There were no first-rate singers, however, and I thought the ballet much inferior to that of the Cocomero. The Grand Duke, Leopold the Second, happened to be present ; I was glad to have an opportunity of seeing this liberal young prince, who is the only Italian sovereign possessed of popularity amongst his subjects. The Tuscans are much in dread of falling under the Imperial yoke, which will be the case should the Grand Duke have no male issue. The Academy of Georgofili was, I believe, one of the first institutions, established in Florence for the encouragement of agriculture, industry, and commerce, under the especial patronage of the Grand Dukes, who have now brought it to a very flourishing state. It has been productive of essen- tial service in their own dominions, in promoting the cultivation of the soil, and has served likewise as a model for similar societies instituted on the same principle in other parts of Italy, and even in Germany. 288 TUSCAN MANUFACTURES. The industrious and ingenious artists in the Tus- can States copy, in the most beautiful manner, statues, vases, and other pieces of sculpture, from the best ancient and modern models, in marble and alabaster. This lucrative trade they have ex- tended all over Europe, and, I am told, even to the new transatlantic republics, where a taste for the fine arts is beginning to develop itself. The Florentines are also famous for manufacturing plain silks ; but, in woollen cloths, mathematical instru- ments, and some other branches of industry, they cannot compete with the English, either in point of price or quality. It is pleasing to see most of the young women in the environs of the city busily employed plaiting the description of bonnets so commonly worn by English ladies ; and which are made of the straw of a kind of wheat cultir vated in Tuscany (arano marzolano) for that pur- pose. These girls have generally a modest car- riage and a very graceful manner, good figures, regular features, and animated black eyes. 1 may be mistaken ; but I should be apt to infer, from their appearance and industrious habits, and from their cleanliness of person and dress, that they are strangers to that looseness of morals, or even le- vity of conduct, which most travellers ascribe to Italian females of all classes. On one of those clear and cloudless December days, which we so seldom enjoy in our northern latitude at any season of the year, I strolled out to the environs of Florence. I could not help admiring the rich and fertile farms which were enclosed within a beautiful amphitheatre of hills, and canopied by an Italian sky of the deep- LA CERTOSA. 289 est blue. The vines, though stripped of their luxuriant foliage, formed the greater contrast with the fruit-trees, while they accorded well with the sombre hue of the olive, and the dark evergreen of the aged ilex. After about an hour's walk, I ap- proached a lofty building, resembling a fortress, up- on an isolated hill ; which proved to be the Certosa, a convent of Carthusian monks of the order of St Bmno. Every one has heard of the strictness, the penances, the rigid ascetic life, of those holy fathers, or of their brethren in the more renowned Grande Chartreuse. The recollections connected with that celebrated institution were quite enough to induce me to request, at the outer gate, per- mission (which was readily granted) to visit the monastery. A pleasant, winding, and shaded walk, leads up to it ; but the founders have displayed more taste in the selection of a site, than in the mat- ter of architecture. There is an air of stillness and religious repose about the Certosa which, to some temperaments, must have an attractive power of the most sublime and placid nature. This village of hermitages is built in the form of a hollow square, within a space about a quarter of a mile in cir- cumference, containing some twenty habitations ; each with a study or oratory, a bedroom and kit- chen, with a small garden adjoining. The church forms one side of the square, and is the most in- teresting object within the walls. Some good pic- tures, by native artists of the , Florentine school ; plenty of marble and mosaic, adorn this elegant place of worship. We were ushered into the apartment, or cell as it is termed; of Don Fortunato, (all the clergy in 2 a 290 DON FORTUNATO. Italy have the title of Don), a venerable-looking portly old man, clothed in white woollen robes, with a long flowing beard, a shaven crown, but having less of the anchorite in his appearance than could have been expected. His conversation throughout was quite that of a man of the world. " Me pa- recche Loro son' Inglese ? " * were his first words. Having satisfied him on that point, though indeed he seemed to take it for granted, he addressed me in the most polite manner in my own language, which he spoke very fluently, and kindly entreat- ed me to take some refreshment. He talked much more respectfully of the English than fo- reigners in general do, and showed us the cards of a great many of that wandering tribe, who carry our national folly and renown to the uttermost corners of the civilized world. I observed in his apartment a very tolerable library of Latin, Italian, and English books, which included some of our best classic authors. He was particularly anxious to know the progress of science in England ; talked on every subject, from the Catholic Ques- tion (which excited his liveliest interest) to the Thames Tunnel, being quite enthusiastic in his praise of that bold and novel undertaking. Our pe- riodical literature, in which he seemed well versed, he described as spirited and fastidious to a pitch of severity, but ingenious, and at times both instructive and amusing. This venerable Cenobite begged to act as my cicerone, and accompanied me to the chapel, the cloister, and through some of the cells, which were chiefly remarkable for their extreme * " It appeal's to me that you are English. '* THE CARTHUSIANS. 291 neatness and cleanliness. Voltaire, speaking of the Carthusians, says, " that they consecrate their time entirely to fasting, silence, solitude, and prayer, perfectly quiet in the midst of a tumultuous world, the noise of which scarce ever reaches their ears. " The testimony of such an adversary is not to be despised. This order is regarded by the Catholic Church as the best model of a penitential and contempla- tive state of existence. With greater austerity than is practised by the votaries of any other re- ligious body, they take a just view of the vanity of human pleasures, fixing all their thoughts on another world, and contenting themselves with their chapel and their cell. In the midst of ro- mantic scenery, with a pure sky above them, every day of their monotonous life is past in exercising the same round of religious duties. After some conversation with the monk upon a variety of topics, I took leave of him, having received a cordial invitation to repeat my visit to the Certosa. Amongst the middling classes, in Florence, owing to the beneficial effect of a wise and liberal government, a favourable impulse has been given to national character, which has had much influ- ence in improving the moral condition, and in diffusing a spirit of inquiry and activity throughout the whole population. Thus the Florentines rank higher in the scale of intellect than the natives of any other part of Italy. Even in viewing the lowest order of the people, no signs of poverty, squalid misery or wretchedness, are discoverable. Industry has been promoted, and continues to be encouraged by the influential and wealthy, from 292 ATTRACTIONS OF FLOHENCE. the prince down to the mechanic. Renowned for its refinement, wealth, and learning — ^with a temperate and healthy climate — a language consi- dered the purest Italian, free from any vulgar dia- lect — monuments of the arts, which are cultivat- ed with greater success than in any other capi- tal of Europe — a society composed of a patri- otic and polite nobility — Florence has become the resort of foreigners distinguished for their rank, or their love of the arts and sciences ; and who have flocked hither in search of rational amuse- ments and useful instruction, which are here easily to be procured. When manoeuvering mothers fail in their specu- lations at Bath or Cheltenham, they try Florence or Rome, in hopes that the warm climate of the south may stimulate and inspire the liberty-loving sons of Britain with some of its genial excitement, and induce them to take compassion on their fair ^countrywomen in a foreign land. It is this perhaps which gives Florence so much the appearance of ^ fashionable English watering place, and renders it less interesting to travellers who love novelty. Still, however, I could not leave Florence without regret, where so many attractions are united, and which is universally allowed to be the most polish- ed city in Italy. CHAPTER XII. TUSCANY CONTINUED. On the bth of December^ I left Florence for Leg- horn, by a diligence or light coach, which carries four people, and is drawn by two horses, which, with the carriage, were changed three or four times during the journey, but unfortunately every change was made for the worse. However, as it is the only attempt at a stage-coach in the Tuscan domi- nions, one must not be very fastidious; besides, they drive quickly, and thus make up for the delay of shifting luggage, and the inferiority of the vehicles. The road along the banks of the Arno is very good, and offers some of the most beautiful prospects of Italian scenery ; such as the romantic-looking monas- tery of Monte 01 i veto, on the summit of a hill near the city gate, and the villa Ricciardi, seen on the left of the road, which is of magnificent architecture, and one of the finest country-houses in the Grand Duchy. In about an hour more we reached the small town of Lastra, noted as the central point where Leghorn bonnets are made, a manufacture which seems the principal occupation of the young women throughout Tuscany, and one admirably 2 A 2 S94 LEGHORN. suited to their neat and elegant appearance. This is not the only kind of industry practised in Lastra. I saw many people employed in making earthen vases, has reliefs, and ornaments for gardens, in imitation of the ancient Etruscan terra cotta vases. The pcEisantry have a cheerful happy look ; and although the country girls are not so handsome as those of Siena, they dress very smartly, and con- vey a very favourable impression of the inhabitants of the Val d' Arao. I arrived at Leghorn in the evening. A sea- port town is always a pleasing sight to an English- man, and the more so if he has passed some time without seeing ships, or breathing the sea- breeze. Leghorn is a place entirely mercan- tile ; the town is new, neatly built, with regular streets, crowded with people, having every ap' pearance of comfort and affluence. The shops are fitted up like those of Portsmouth or Havre ; and it is considered the most commercial port of the Mediterranean, being safe, spacious, and well defended by a mole, which extends itself a very considerable way out from the land. Trade and industry present the same appearance of bustle and activity at Leghorn, which is termed the Liverpool of Italy, as they do everywhere ; and scarcely any difference of rank is perceptible amongst the inha- bitants. There is certainly no town in Italy which re- minds one so much of England as Leghorn. Even many of the vessels in the port sported our national flag. After passing through its principal streets, I took a ramble beyond its walls into the country. The immediate environs are flat and heathy, inter- TOMB OF SMOLLETT. 295 spersed with several villas and cottages belonging to wealthy merchants, many of whom have chosen to fix their residence upon the hill of Monte Ne- ro, which is considered the healthiest and most elevated spot in the neighbomhood. Nor did I omit to visit the English burying-gi'ound about half a mile from the town, where many a heavy pile of CaiTara marble records the name of some rich and plodding, yet obscure individual ; but I hastily turned away from such gaudy monuments, when I discovered the tomb of Tobias Smollett, which many a traveller has come to Leghorn for the purpose of visiting. The marble, plain and unsculptured, which, in the form of a small pyra- mid, resting upon a square base, covers the re- mains of this celebrated author, bears ample testi- mony to the veneration in which many of his en- thusiastic admirers hold his memory ; and which they have testified by numerous inscriptions. Here there is likewise to be seen the tomb of Francis Horner, justly celebrated as an eloquent orator, an erudite and enlightened critic, and a profound phi- losopher. The professors of every religious creed are to- lerated at Leghorn, and enjoy the free exercise of their own worship. The Roman Catholic is the es- tablished religion of the state, as well as the most popular. There are many English and other Pro- testants who 'have a chapel, and a chaplain paid by the Factory ; who are a wealthy and respectable body, and carry on the greatest share of the trade between this country, England and America. There are not fewer than 18,000 Jews in Leg- horn, who here, as in Leghorn, enjoy peculiar 296 JEWISH SYNAGOGUE. privileges, even that of holding landed property ; a distinction which, when they do possess, they are very fond of showing. Their synagogue is considered one of the finest in Europe, though it appeared to me inferior to that of Frank- fort. These people are quite peculiar, even in their temple. Although there was neither buy- ing nor selling when I visited the interior, before I could obtain egress, I was attacked by a num- ber of men, women and children, all of whom claimed something for showing what was apparent- ly open to the public. To get rid of their impor- tunities, I was compelled in my own defence, as the only Christian among so many Jews, to dis- tribute amongst them the loose silver which 1 had in my purse, and was excessively rejoiced when I was allowed to make my escape. The Greeks have also a church and college at Leghoni, and I was told that even the Mahommedans have, or had a mosque there ; but I did not carry my cu- riosity so far as to ascertain the truth of this re- port. I took a small boat one morning, and rowed out a few miles on the tideless Mediterranean. Se- veral vessels were then performing quarantine at Moleto ; where the lazarettos are large and com- modious. I passed near that of San Leopoldo, con- sidered one of the best in Europe. Its wise sa- natory regulations afford ample security against that dreadful scourge the plague, to which, if the most rigid precautions were not taken, their great Levant trade would necessarily expose them. I landed at a lofty round tower, built on an isolated rock, as a lighthouse^ about a mile from the shore, THE MEDITERRANEAN. 297 which the French, with characteristic activity, had begun to unite with the land by a new and really magnificent mole, forming an outer harbour. Here I enjoyed a truly delightful prospect from the top. On the vast space of deep blue waters of the Tyrrhene sea, bounded by the horizon, I saw with much interest the islands of Corsica and Elba. From such a spot, it is impossible not to recall the idea of that amazing man, the wonder of our age ; and while gazing on Corsica the land of his birth, on Italy the scene of his first military exploits, and a little farther off, on Elba, the reduced limits of his petty sovereignty, I almost forgot the mag- nificent view which my elevated station aiForded. It comprised Leghorn and the surrounding coun- try, Pisa with its lofty dome, and leaning tower ; and in the distance the Apennines of the Reviere de Levante, backed by the snowy Alps of Pied- mont, while the light morning breeze from the land, and a clear atmosphere, gave a most powerful effect to the impressive scenery. Leghorn is not the place to look for any monu- ment of antiquity or of the arts ; and a stranger, who has nothing to do with commerce, soon gets tired of it, for he can find but few resources for the mind ; and if impelled by the stimulus of tra- vel, he will limit his stay to a very few days. The only public monument I saw, was a marble statue (near the arsenal) of Ferdinand I., with four colos- sal slaves in bronze at his feet, forming a very un- favourable specimen of Giovanni di Bologna's sculp- ture. Leghorn, however, affords a pleasing ex- ample to what extent entei*prising sovereigns can become benefacUns of their country, since, out of 298 CORAL MANUFACTURE. an unproductive and unhealthy marsh, this flourish- ing port was raised by the enterprise of the Medici. The Jewish quarter is rarely the seat of virtue ; and at Leghorn, as well as every where else, it is the filthiest in the town. At the expense of my handkerchief (of which my pocket was picked), I ventured to visit the coral manufactory, for which this quarter is famous. The stone is fished up near the coast of Sicily, and brought from thence by the Jews, who are extremely industrious, and monopolize this branch entirely. Many of the alabaster vases and figures, hawked about all over Europe, are also of their workmanship, and prove a source of great wealth to Tuscany. The exten- sive foreign commerce of Leghorn is, however, of infinitely greater importance, it being the only real free port of Italy, and the grand depot of foreign and colonial produce ; which is conse- quently sold, for the consumption of the town, at comparatively a very cheap rate. But the strictest search of all carriages, and even of foot-passen- gers, passing the gates, is rigorously enforced. While every thing is allowed freely to enter the town, nothing can be conveyed into the interior of the country, until a considerable duty has been exacted. I am told, however, that the utmost vigilance on the part of the Doganieri does not prevent contraband trade. That part of the town in which I lodged is cal- led New Venice ; merely, I presume, from its being intersected by a number of canals, which serve to transport goods from the harbour to the ware- houses of the merchants ; for this is the only point of resemblance which it bears to the *' Queen of the PISA. 299 Adriatic." In the centre of the town there is a large square, whence all the principal streets branch off ; and at one end of which stands the collegiate church, as little remarkable for the architecture of its exterior, as the ornaments of its interior. The theatre for Italian plays and operas is rather a hand- some building ; but during my stay it was destitute of performers — a circumstance which of course prevented me from visiting it. I have not seen any coffee-houses in Italy, not even those of the unrivalled Piazza di San Marco, more splendid than a Greek coffee-house at Leghorn, which is elegantly lighted up in the evening, and appears to be very much resorted to by the varied inhabi- tants of the many trading marts, who are constant- ly visiting this great commercial emporium. In December, the climate had begun to assume a chilly character, with clear frosty weather, a pure blue sky, and bright sunshine, — a change which augured well for travelling. I, therefore, took a place in one of the vehicles that perform the journey re- gularly between Leghorn and Pisa. The distance is not more than fourteen miles ; but the road is quite level, and the country on both sides monoto- nous, though pretty well cultivated, but still sus- ceptible of greater improvement. We were scarce- ly three hours in reaching the depopulated and melancholy city of Pisa, which presents a re- markable instance of decayed grandeur, and an illustration of the popular notion, that, by the constitution of things, kingdoms, like individuals, have periods of infancy, maturity, and decrepitude. Though at first an insignificant town, Pisa, by the force of commercial industry and activity, became, 300 ITS DECAY. after the lapse of some years, one of the most powerful and influential cities in Italy. In the history of that country it will be found to have borne a prominent part. While under a Republi- can form of government, it was renowned for the rapid progress which it made, as well in arts and arms, as in navigation. It had acquired immense wealth, and its inhabitants consequently possessed much power, and were, in their manners and cus- toms, distinguished for their splendour. Before the city was united to the Duchy of Tuscany, the population is said to have reached the number of 1 50,000 ; but the disastrous influence of foreign ha- bits, combined with many other causes, at length destroyed the energy of citizens, who, at one time, were chiefly celebrated for their stern pride and unyielding patriotism. This consummation was no doubt greatly caused by the establishment of a port at Leghorn, which drew to itself the vital interests of Pisa, and gave a death-blow to its prosperity as a city. The streets are now quiet and desolate, and the population has been reduced to one-tenth part of its former number. The climate and the antiquities of the place are now indeed the only attractions which Pisa presents to the traveller. The splendour of the palaces and other edifices which Pisa contains may be greatly attributed to the fine marble quarries which are found in its neighbourhood. It cannot, however, be said of these buildings, that the material surpasses the workmanship; for the quality of their architec- ture is generally as excellent as that of the mar- ble of which they are composed. This city has likewise the credit which arises from the fame of THE UNIVERSITY. 301 having superadded the elegant arts to the other glories of Italy — or rather, of having revived a taste for them in the minds of the Italians. The Pisans derived their improvements in architecture and painting from the relics of Greek art. They abandoned the barbarous style of the middle ages, and introduced the tasteful peculiarities of that an- cient school, which, for grace and harmony of pro- portion*in its architecture, as well as for the purity of design, and richness of colouring in its painting, stood till this period unrivalled. It was from Pisa that a just and polite taste for the fine arts pro- ceeded to spread, in the course of a few centuries, over the whole of Europe. The University of Pisa is second in point of ce- lebrity to none in Italy, except that of Pavia. No place can be better calculated for the purposes of study, it is so perfectly quiet ; and, enjoying the advantage of a mild and salubrious climate, espe- cially in winter, it is well adapted for the resi- dence of invalids ; but it contained very few foreigners at the period of my visit. I can ima- gine that it is too dull and retired for the gene- rality of English who travel for pleasure ; but they would, however, have one inducement to fix their abode there, in the high character for urbanity and sociability of manners, which the Pisans justly boast of. A short stay enabled me to judge very imperfectly of the literary institutions or society of the place ; but I cannot refrain from expressing my obligations to Professor Paoli Savi, director of the museum, a celebrated naturalist, who is re- markably attentive to all travellers introduced to him. The learned Professor Rosini is equally kind 2b 302 TORRE DI FAME — SAN STEFANO. to strangers. He is now busily engaged on a new edition of Tasso, which will, from what I have heard, do credit to his talents and erudition. The site of the Torre di Fame, which was de- molished some hundred years ago, was pointed out to me. It is celebrated in Dante's Inferno, in the interesting account given of the story of Ugolino, whom he finds, on arriving at the last circle of hell, with the other traitor to his country, Roger, immured in eternal snow. It is an historical fact, that Count Ugolino della Gherardesca, usurped by treacherous means the sovereignty of Pisa, from which he was expelled by the more fortunate but equally criminal Archbishop Ruggieri d'Ubaldine. The triumph of the latter was disgraced by the horrible cruelty which he exercised towards his rival and victim, whom he shut up, along with his four children, in the Torre di Fame, where they died of hunger, amidst the most excruciating ago- nies. From this dreadful catastrophe the edifice took its name. I visited the church of the Cavaliere di San Stefano with a greater degree of interest, because it was built on the spot where this celebrated " tower of famine " once stood. It belongs to the knights of the military order of St Stephen, of which Cosmo I. was grand master. This institu- tion is similar to that of the chivalrous Knights of Malta. The members cruised in galleys in the Mediterranean against the Turks and pirates, Pisa having been their conventual residence ; and all round the cliurch, which is ornamented with some good pictures, and a high altar of poi*phyry, banners won from the Infidel are suspended as trophies. The THE CATHEDRAL. 303 Knights of St Stephen are immensely rich, and live well. They still possess a large estate in the Val di Chiana, between Arezzo and Cortona, which was formerly an extensive morass, subject to floods, but which they converted into the richest arable land. This fertile and highly cultivated plain ex- cited my admiration when travelling through it, as well as the vine-covered hills, beautifully va- riegated with cottages, fattorias, and " convents of sober grey. " Such jolly knights are, therefore, (as may be supposed) never at a loss for the best Aleatico wines, produced on their own property, which may be termed the favourite seat of " Bacchus in Tuscany. " The Leaning Tower, the Campo Santo, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery, form a group of noble and interesting objects, such as even Italy seldom presents elsewhere. Although without the symmetry and purity so much admired in Grecian edifices, they have each their respective beauties. The cathedral, surmounted by a cupo- la, is a very fine piece of architecture, which can neither be termed Grecian nor Gothic, but a com- bination of both, adorned with four ranges of an- cient pillars of different orders, with round arches, resting on pilasters ; and it was the first edifice in which modern architecture assumed the beauty and regularity of a science. The bas-reliefs are not in good taste ; but the interior is spacious and elegant, and contains some valuable paintings by the old masters. It is also ornamented with fine mosaics, and the sculptured marble columns brought by the Pisans from the Holy Land. About the middle of the twelfth century, the baptistery was built by SO^ THE CAMPO SANTO. Diati Salvi, a native architect. There is an octa- gonal font in the centre, beautifully sculptured, and large enough for the immersion of infants, or even of adults, in baptism. When I entered the Campo Santo, I felt a kind of awe pervade my mind, which I cannot describe. The very silence of the place seemed sacred. A second Volney might lean on one of the ancient tombs in this field of sepulchres, and contemplate, instead of the ruins of Palmyra, the venerable fres- cos of Giotto and Orgagno ; while the antiquary and the sculptor would find ample scope for their researches, at every step they took, in this melan- choly sanctuary of the dead, who repose amid the earth of the Holy Land — the soil of this sepulchre having been transported from Mount Calvary by the Pisan galleys of the crusaders. One of the best frescos is an allegorical picture by Giotto, which may be called the triumph of death. There are two groups ; in the one, poverty, disease, and age, are seen invoking the welcome aid of the grim tyrant ; and, in the other, youth, wealth, and prosperity, seem shrinking from his approach in horror and dread. Few edifices in Europe have been more fre- quently described, or are better known, than the Leaning Tower, or Campanile. Its magnificent Gothico-Morisco architecture, like the Cathedral, cased in black and white marble, surrounded by eight circles or rows of columns supporting arches, which gradually decrease in their proportions as they approach the top, are well worth a minute inspection. The tower is 200 feet high, and di- verges, towards the east, upwards of 13 feet from THE LEANING TOWER. 305 the perpendicular, a circumstance which is attri- buted, by some, to the foundation having^iven way soon after the buihling was commenced ; and the architect having tried the experiment of continuing his work, succeeded in maintaining the unusual inclination thus given to it by accident. This is, at all events, one manner of accounting for so ?tSto- nishing a phenomenon, which has now stood for many centuries, affording an evident proof of its solidity. There are others, howi^ver, who main- tain a contrary theory, asserting that the Tower must h'ive been thrown off its perpendicular by some accidental cause, long after its erection. la proof of this opinion it may be mentioned, that ia one of the pictures in the Campo Santo, repre- senting the Life of S. Ranieri, this Tower is in- troduced perfectly upright, but only seven stories in height, whereas it is now eight stories high. These pictures were begun about 1 300, being up- wards of a century after the Campanile was finish" ed. It is therefore probable that the latter opi- nion is correct ; and that the eighth storey, which rather inclines in a contrary direction, must have been added at a subsequent period, to act as a sort of counterbalance to the accidental position which it had taken. A similar obliquity of position is noticed in other buildings near this, and, indeed, over the whole of Lombardy, evidently owing to the soft nature of the soil, in which water is found at the depth of a few feet. The view from the sum- mit is remarkably fine, embracing the fertile hills to- wards the east covered with olive-trees, a great part of the Val d'Arno, and the vast expanse of the blue wa- ters of the Mediterranean. The Arno flows through 2 B 2 306 THE LUNG ARNO. Pisa, which, like Florence, is huilt chiefly on the right bank, and three fine bridges form the communica- tion between the different parts of the town. The Lung Amo, or spacious quays along the river, are ornamented with noble edifices of beautiful archi- tecture, chiefly built during the time of the repub- lic. Most of the streets are wide, straight, and well paved. Besides several ancient monuments of the Gothic style, such as the Hall of Commerce, which is supported by pilasters of the Doric order, where the merchants used to assemble, there are the palaces formerly belonging to the Lanfianchi and the Lanfuducci families^ and many others on the Lung Amo. CHAPTER XIIL SARDINIAN STATES. On the 10 tk December 1 left Pisa at rather a late hour in the afternoon, in company with two reverend fa- thers, who had engaged places in the same vetturino- coach for Genoa. Our journey, at first, lay through a fine plain, bordered as usual with festoons of vine. The grapes had long since been gathered ; and the beautiful gi'een of the olives, and the livelier hue of the orange-trees, were almost shrouded from our sight by the shades of twilight. A few hours drive over an excellent level carriage-road, with the lofty chain of Apennines on our right, and the sea on our left hand, brought us to the small town of Pietra Santa, belonging to Tuscany, but surrounded on all sides by the territory of Lucca. Carrara is situated at a considerable distance from the high road, amongst the mountains, the tops of which are perceived from afar, having the ap- pearance of being covered with snow, from the whiteness of the marble of which they are com- posed. I was very desirous of seeing the quarries, without relinquishing the seat which I had engaged in the vehicle for the remainder of my journey to 308 MASSA — LUCCA ANECDOTE. Genoa, and set off in a cabriolet to visit that cele- brated spot. I was much gratified with the sight of many excellent models of ancient and modern sculpture, as well as of the immense quarries, from which the finest marble in Europe is obtained, and which forms a most lucrative and important branch of commerce to the state. I rejoined my vetturino companions next morn- ing at Massa, which is delightfully situated near the sea, and which, with its ducal palace and castle, forms quite the beau-ideal of a petty sovereign's re- sidence. I am sorry to add that it belongs to the most unpopular Prince in Italy, the Duke of Mo» dena, both territories being united. Lucca, the adjoining state, is equally small. It was formerly a republic, and has passed through several hands since that period. Napoleon bestowed it upon his sister Eliza, called the Semiramis of Tuscany, who married Bacciochi, a soldier of fortune, and who thus became a prince in his native country, a rank for which he was totally unfit. It is related, that when the Gonfaloniere and some of the principal person- ages of the capital were presented to his new-made Highness, being accustomed to republican manners, they apologized for acquitting themselves rather awkwardly at court ; but Bacciochi put them quite at their ease, by answering very good-naturedly, " In that case we must excuse one another, for I have been just as little in the habit of acting the prince, as you the courtiers. " This fortunate ad- venturer is now enjoying his otium cum dignitate at Bologna, and is highly esteemed for his wealth, and the good use he makes of it. All the terri- tories of Lucca are beautiful and fertile, producing SARZANA — LA SPEZZIA. 309 the finest oil in Italy. The celebrated baths, so much resorted to in summer, where the tempera- ture is cool and pleasant, are about twenty miles distant from the Mediterranean. The country between the sea and the high Apennines of Mo- dena (along which we travelled), forms the finest part of the Duchy. The whole population does not exceed 170,000. About noon we reached the ancient town of Sarzana, the first Genoese territory on the Riviere di Levante. Although we passed through the do- minions of three or four petty princes we were not troubled or delayed at the customhouses ; a few pauls to the officers inducing them to waive their right of search. I got to La Spezzia ear- ly enough to take a boat, in order to enjoy a better view of the fine bay, which is considered one of the best stations for fleets in the Mediter- ranean. The French erected batteries and several forts at Porto Venere, the entrance of the gulf, which is commanded by the neighbouring hills ; but these works being little wanted as a means of defence by the present sovereign of the Genoese and Sardinian States, they have been suffered to fall to decay. In the middle of the bay there is an extraordinary spring of fresh water, which bub- bles up for several feet, and is surrounded on all sides by salt water. I had heard of this pheno- menon, and desired the boatman to take me to the spot, where I tasted the water, in order to con- vince myself of the fact. I returned in the even- ing to a capital inn, where I observed one of the priests, my travelling companion, order a supply oi fine live-fish to be put up m a basket, which he 310 LIGURIAN APENNINES. handed to the vetturino ; a circumstance which I attributed to their making timely provision for a fast on the following day. As far as Borgetto, the road is pretty good, though the aspect of the country is less fertile From thence to Matterano we proceeded at a very slow pace, all the way up hill. A pair of oxen were required to assist in dragging up the coach ; but I preferred walking over those wild mountains, which are barren, dark, and desolate ; very few inhabitants, and scarcely any traces of cultivation being visible, with the exception of a few stunted olive-trees, and poor-looking vines, which hardly produce any thing. On reaching the wretched village of Matterano, on the summit of the Ligu- rian Apennines, we were under the necessity of stopping two hours. Fatigued and hungry, I there found the advantage of having with me experienced travelling companions ; for the albergo could fur- nish nothing but eggs, sour wine, and bad bread. The fish which I had seen stored up were soon produced, ordered to be fried, and proved a wel- come addition to the fare presented by our host. My reverend friends had also in reserve a bottle of choice Muscat, all of which they most freely shared with me. We did not reach Chiavarri until nine o'clock at night, where I again found a comfortable inn, and, what I was unaccustomed to in other parts of Italy, a bedroom to myself. I was the more surprised to meet with such accommodations on this road, as I had been prepared to expect the worst, from the information of other travellers. The following morning, the sun rose in all his CHIAVARRI. 311 glory, as we were driving through the beautiful avenue of Chiavarri, which extends upwards of a mile along the beach, between two rows of poplars and cherry-trees. We soon discovered the pro- jecting Cape of Porto Fino, and while we enjoyed the bright rays of a clear winter sun, which tinged the neighbouring mountains, the spires of churches and convents became visible amidst hamlets and neat cottages, scattered upon the sloping hills. It happened to be Sunday, and the bells of the pa- rish church were ringing, for the purpose of as- sembling the congregation to witness the celebra- tion of the last mass, when we stopped at the village of Nervi ; which is one of the most de- lightful places near Genoa, and the resort of its nobles and citizens, who have their country-houses all along the road for many miles. The richer classes, however, repair to their villas on the Ri- viere ; and those of an humbler sphere hire apart- ments in the numerous cassini on the surrounding hills. There is, indeed, a general partiality among all classes of the Genoese for the pleasures of vil- leggiatura and rural residences. I was enchanted with the first view I obtained of " Genoa la Superba, " with its gay villas, splendid palaces, and suburbs. It rises from a noble bay, and in the form of a crescent of terraces, on the sloping declivity of the Apennines — built as it were by en- chantment in a rocky ungrateful soil, but rendered delightful by art, which has here overcome every dif- ficulty. This display of commercial wealth and magnificence, reared by national enterprise, has co- vered with gorgeous palaces the once barren rocks of Liguria, which now form, amid orange, lemon, and 312 GENOA. olive-trees, the most brilliant prospect. The old native poets represented Genoa as a " celestial paradise, similar to the Elysian Fields, with pa- laces in which art excelled nature, houses of marble, hills covered with cedar, vines, olives, and deli- cious retreats on the shore, whose sands shone like gold." The suburbs and villages extend for a dozen of miles on each side of the Riviere di Le- vante and Ponente, * as the coast from Pisa to Nice is called. The bracing purity of its atmosphere, the gentleness and gaiety of its women, the acti- vity and intelligence of its men, render Genoa the envy of even Naples itself, notwithstanding that the latter boasts of the more romantic sublimity of its scenery, and its classical associations. A descrip- tion of Genoa, its palaces and buildings, would fill more space than I can devote to it. As my fellow-travellers were to remain a few days in Genoa, we went together for the purpose of visiting what was most worthy of attention* We commenced with the three superb streets call- ed Strada Nova, Strada Balbi, and Strada No- vissima, which are broad, well paved, and fit for the residence of the principal nobility, who here have their palaces. Most of the other streets are narrow, steep, and impracticable for any wheeled vehicle, owing to the inequality of the ground on which the city is built. There are few private equipages, and the public coaches are confined to the centre of the town, as they can only pass through the streets which cross it from east to west. The fortifications are very extensive, form- ♦ East and West Coasts. THE DURAZZO PALACES. 313 ing a circuit of twelve miles from the sea to the summit of the mountain. Besides the outer line of defence, which surrounds the town, there is an in- ner line at the gates, dividing the old part of it from the new, where the handsome streets commence. A succession of fine buildings extend along the shore. The houses are elegant and lofty, rising one above the other on the sides of the hills, and forming an amphitheatre from the mole, which defends the harbour. The many forts, ramparts, bridges, and batteries, towards sea and land, give Genoa the appearance of a strong place, particularly on the western side. It has indeed sustained several sieges, and was taken towards the close of the war by the English forces, to whom it capitulated after the outworks had fallen into their hands. Be it re- marked, however, that the principal clause of the capitulation was violated : namely, that Genoa should either be free or taken under the protec- tion of the English, but not given up to Sardinia. To avoid this latter fate, the Genoese had resolved to bury themselves in the ruins of the city which they defended. The two Durazzo palaces are justly considered the most magnificent in Italy ; one of them is ce- lebrated for its fa9ade, court, and terraces-— the former of the finest marble. The most remarkable part of its architecture is a splendid staircase, sup- ported by a triple row of beautiful marble pillars, which give this princely residence a very elegant e0ect. The Palazzo Marcellin Durazzo, contains a valuable collection of paintings, to which we ob- tained admittance with that liberal spirit of urba- nity which distinguishes the nobility of this coun- 2 Q 314 THE DORIA PALACE. try. Every cicerone ought to have a tolerable knowledge of the fine arts ; but one would not ex- pect a servant to be able to descant upon the me- rits of painting and sculpture. I was therefore not a little amused to hear the custodio of this palace give not only the names of the different masters, but an account of the subjects of the most celebrat- ed pictures, in a manner which showed that he had considerable knowledge of mythology and his- tory ; and I could discover, from the answers he made to several questions that were put to him, that his lesson was not merely got by rote. One of the finest works I saw was an admirable fresco by Solimene. The subject is the dead body of Hector dragged at the triumphal car of Achilles. I ought, however, to rank before it, a Magdalen washing the feet of our Saviour, which is consi- dered Paulo Veronese's masterpiece, — although the same thing is said of at least a dozen other paint- ings by this artist. In another room there are three excellent Luca Giordanos, and several Spag- nuoletos, particularly a Saint Gerome, his favourite subject. I also saw several fine pictures in the gal- lery by Genoese artists of great merit, but whose names are little known out of their own imme- diate sphere. The largest of all the splendid pa- laces here, was once the residence of the celebrated Andre Doria, Doge of Genoa ; but whose descen- dants have entirely quitted this city, preferring Rome, where they enjoy the title of Princes, and possess four superb palazzos. The situation of this mag- nificent edifice, its grand view, galleries and ter- races, make it still the most remarkable of all the fine structures belonging to the Genoese aristo- COMMERCIAL SITUATION. 315 cracy, independently of the halo it derives from the recollection of its venerable founder, and the historic lustre of his celebrated descendants. In the Strada Nuova the Palazzo Serra has a saloon, lined with splendid mirrors from the ceiling down to the floor, multiplying the objects reflected from one to the other, so that the spectator imagines himself in an interminable hall of lapis lazuli and gold, with which the rooms are richly ornamented. The ceiling represents a Genoese victory over the Turks at sea, beautifully painted. If this saloon were lighted up, I can imagine the effect to be much too dazzling for the eye ; but this must happen very rarely, as the nobility here live in a very retired manner, seeing scarcely any company. The squares are irregular, particularly the Pi- azza Amorosa. The principal one in the city has the same defect. It is called St Annunziata, from a church which stands on one side, and which was built by the family of Lomellino. This church exhibits an unsightly exterior, but is very rich in painting and marble. It possesses only one excellent picture — the Last Supper by Corre- gio. The advantageous commercial situation of the capital of Liguria, with its barren soil and limited territory, compelled the citizens to direct their atten- tion towards the Mediterranean ; and the resources which arid mountains refused them on shore, were fully recompensed by an extensive maritime trade. Large capitals were speedily realized ; its harbour became the depot of goods from the Levant, Africa, and Spain ; and although not very remarkable for the extent of its shipping at the present day, 316 THE PIAZZA BIANCHI. Genoa is still considered as the richest mercantile emporium of Italy. As trade increased the bank of St George was set on foot ; and the Genoese were, through its means, enabled to act as the bankers of Europe, lending their money to foreign governments, and establishing factories at Lisbon, Cadiz, and other principal commercial cities, while they performed business as consignees and agents for the merchants of all nations. Even the proud patricians did not disdain to risk their funds in trade, or embark in speculations which offered the prospect of lucrative returns, provided they could by any means promote their own interests. The Genoese bear a high character for intelligence, shrewdness, and industry. The love of pleasure and of extravagance were never so conspicuous with them as with their rivals the Venetian nobility, who were always notoriously devoted to such ruin- ous pursuits. This commonwealth flourished for many hundred years ; but after resisting several shocks, it eventually declined. Its nobles and ci- tizens became less patriotic ; until at length, and about the same time, the sister republics of Ge- noa and Venice were overwhelmed by the power of Buonaparte. The Piazza Bianchi is the most frequented quar- ter of the city, and there the merchants and ship- captains transact business. The large and hand- some building called the Loggia, supported by marble columns, was formerly the Exchange, but it is now open to every one. Adjoining the harbour there is a very extensive range of warehouses, walled round close to the customhouse, which was once the national bank of St GeorgCi but is PORTO FRANCO. 317 now occupied as the Porto-franco. Here all fo- reign goods are deposited, without incurring duty, until taken out for home-consumption ; and even then the charge is inconsiderahle. Very few natives are employed as porters in the Porto-francos of Genoa and Leghorn. A hardy, nimble race of men from Bergamo, supply the place of the Genoese and Tuscans — a preference they owe more to their strength in carrying amazing loads, and their industrious frugality of manners, than to any other cause, although it has been al- leged that the common people are so sunk and de- graded as to render them unworthy of the meanest employment from their own countrymen. And here I may remark, that from the circumstance of certain classes being excluded from the Porto- franco, an English traveller has drawn the very ab- surd inference, that it was owing to their pilfering propensities. The fact is, as I imagine, that the Bergamesque porters are employed in Genoa on the same principle that Gallicians are employed in Lis- bon and Madrid, or Irish chairmen and coal-heavers in London ; and this intelligent and talented writer, in ascribing the exclusion of females and soldiers from a public commercial establishment to a sus- picion of their honesty, might have accounted for it in a more natural manner, by supposing, that having no business of their own in such places, their presence would tend to retard and impede that of the public. Although the Genoese complain bitterly of the great Congress at Vienna, they have certainly gained, in some respects, by an union with the kingdom of Sardinia ; for their vessels now trade 2 c 2 318 THB DARStNA— HARBOUR. with the old Spanish and Portuguese colonies, and their flag is respected by the Barbary powers, who used to curb their navigation so much in former times. Thus the wealthy people here, who are ever anxious to extend commerce, and em- ploy their capital advantageously, are now be- coming reconciled to the loss of political independ- ence, when they find that their interest is ad- vanced, in some measure, even though their coun- try be degraded by such conduct. I viewed the Darsina or arsenal with little inte- rest, for although it contains some good docks for building ships of war and galleys, there were only two galleys in it. The navy is composed of three very fine frigates, a few corvettes and smaller vessels, manned by Genoese, who are said to be the best sailors and navigators in the Mediter- ranean. The harbour is excellent in many respects, and is protected by two moles, on the extremity of which are lighthouses, the entrance being be- tween them. Further out is situated the large and commodious Lazaretto. When I saw it, a number of vessels of all nations were performing quaran- tine, while the inner harbour was crowded with trading craft belonging to the surrounding ports. The view of the city from this point is truly mag- nificent. The walls of the houses and palaces are generally painted of different colours, with flat roofs, on many of which are terraces, with flower-^ pots, like aerial gardens. The numerous fine spires, churches, palaces and convents, extending several miles along the shore, and gradually rising in the form of a crescent on the sloping sides of the hills, have 9 splendid effect. ^ THEATRES — MORALS. 319 As to theatres, Genoa was worse off than any town in Italy, till the new one was built. To judge from what I have seen of the exterior of this building, I should imagine it almost equal in size to Covent-Garden, and not much inferior to the magnificent La Scala at Milan. The theatre of San Agostina is badly constructed, poorly deco- rated, and the performers are very inferior. The King has a theatre for Italian comedies attached to his palace, which he frequents regularly every evening. Yet, notwithstanding the new era intro- duced by Goldoni and Al fieri in comedy and tra- gedy, the Italian theatre is still in a low state. Many of the most popular pieces are merely trans- lations from the French and German, which please the public taste more than their national original dramas ; and what the many-headed monster pre- fers must be performed. If Genoa has not been misrepresented, it is a dissolute city, for there luxury has not merely at- tained its acme, but avarice is said to prevail amongst the men, and licentiousness amongst the women. " Uomini senza onore, e donne senza vergogna," * It abounds, however, with hospi- tals, churches, and charitable institutions, " whose turrets pierce the skies, and, like so many electri» cal conductors, avert the wrath of Heaven ! " The Albergo dei Poveri is one of the best ma- naged hospitals I have seen abroad. It combines the two objects of a workhouse and a house of cor- rection, where more than a thousand poor people of both sexes, and nearly twice as many orphans, • Men without honour, and women without modesty. 320 THE ALBERGO DEI POVERI. are provided with food and shelter. There is also an infirmary for the sick and aged when unable to work, while the young and healthy are kept con- stantly employed ; the boys and girls being brought up to some trade. A warehouse, well stored with the produce of their labour, remains open for the inspection of the public, and for the sale of diffe- rent articles of their manufacture, a part of the price being allowed them as a recompense, as well as a stimulus to industry. The building is very large,^ and is situated in a healthy elevated part of the town, with a handsome church in its centre, which is so admirably and ingeniously constructed, that every inmate of the hospital may, from their respective wards, see the performance of mass, and enjoy the benefit of divine service. The cha- pel contains two fine pieces of sculpture, a dead Christ in alto relievo by Buonarotti, worthy of that great artist, and a Virgin of the Assumption by the celebrated French sculptor Puget. Aban- doned and destitute females arrested by the police, are sent to this institution, where they find an asylum, a separate part of the edifice being con- verted into a species of Magdalen or Peniten- tiary, These unfortunate creatures are well treat- ed, and encouraged in habits of industry; but they are not suffered to have any communica- tion with the immoral part of the public, or with the other inmates of the Albergo. The revenues of this hospital are partly derived from the Go- vernment ; but they chiefly arise from the chari- table donations of wealthy individuals, amongst whom many of the most illustrious families of the republic stand conspicuous. Statues have been doge's palace— conscripts. S21 erected in the church to record such liberality and benevolence ; and I observed the names of Doria, Fieschi, Spinola, Balbi, and other Doges, in the list of benefactors. I was under the necessity of visiting the Doge's palace, or rather the government- offices, into which it has been converted, in order to obtain my passport, which was handed to me duly signed, on payment of twelve francs. I could not object to pay this ra- ther severe tax, which it seems his Sardinian Ma- jesty exacts from every foreigner who enters his dominions, as I considered it fair enough that we should pay for the privileges we enjoy in foreign countries, according to the discretion of their laws, our visits being perfectly optional. There are several handsome halls in this ancient palace, if it deserves to be so called, for it was rebuilt about seventy yeara ago. The council-hall is the largest, and is ornamented with a number of statues. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescos, repre* senting some of the most interesting events in the history of the Republic. There are three pictures in this hall by Solimene ; one is the landing of the illustrious Genoese, Columbus, in America, a very admirable specimen of the Neapolitan school. All of them have the vividness of colouring, boldness of design, and wildness of expression, which dis- tinguish the productions of Salvator Rosa, Spag- nuoleto, and Santafede. The saloon, where the select Council of Ten used to assemble, was crowd- ed with people waiting to learn the results of a ballot for conscripts — a custom which is similar to balloting for the militia in England. The Pied- montese troops on garrison^duty keep up the 322 S. MARIA IN CAllIGNANO. strictest discipline ; and instances of any disputes between them and the inhabitants are of very rare occurrence. One of the regiments of the King's guards, a very fine body of soldier-looking men, is always quartered here. Their uniform is the same as that of the French Garde Royale. By a pleasant walk along the ramparts which are covered with gardens, I came to the district of Carignano, a high hill between the fortifications and the sea. From the lofty dome of the church of Carignano, dedicated to the Madonna, I had one of the best views of the city and surrounding country. This beautiful structure was erected by the noble family of Sauli, at an expense of several millions of liri. The circumstance to which it owes its origin is a characteristic proof of the pride and wealth of the Republican Patricians, as it is said to have been erected from a pique between two families, or rather the ladies of the families. The Signore Sauli had long been in the habit of hearing mass at the chapel of a neighbouring nobleman ; but one day coming later than usual, the priest had already commenced service without waiting for them. On their return home, they naturally complained of this want of courtesy to their father, who in- stantly resolved to take a noble revenge, by build- ing and endowing a church for his own family on the adjoining hill. After this edifice was complet- ed, he ordered a splendid bridge to be constructed across the Street di Servi, connecting the two op- posite hills, and the arch of this bridge is one of the boldest and handsomest I have seen. Thus the story runs ; but I do not vouch for it, although confirmed by no less a person than the sacristan THE COURT — COOKERY. 323 of the Church of Carignano. The more correct opinion probably is, that the church of Santa Ma- ria in Carignano, was built in obedience to the will of Bendinelli Sauli a noble Genoese, and that its magnificent bridge was erected by his son. Religious ceremonies are performed at Genoa with great splendour. I was present one day at a grand festival in the Church of St Ambrogio, be- longing to the Jesuits, where the King of Sardinia and several of the princesses soon afterwards ar- rived, in honour of the ceremony. His Majesty appeared to be a good-natured old man, with- out the least expression in his countenance, or the slightest indication of intellect. The Court resides here half the year, and the other half at Turin, — an arrangement which, while it renders the King popular among the Genoese, has excited, the jealousy of his Piedmontese subjects, who seem to think that he gives them too little of his com- pany in his hereditary dominions. I dined at a Tratoria, for the express purpose of tasting the national dish so well known to all gas- tronomes by the name " Rabiole. " Like the " olla podrida " of the Spaniards, it is composed of a great variety of ingredients, so judiciously and skilfully combined, as to form an ensemble worthy of the delicate palate of the most fastidious epi- cure. The Genoese kitchen is quite in the South Italian style. Oil is very much used ; nor is gar- lic spared. The markets display an abundant sup- ply of excellent meat, poultry, fruit and vegeta- bles ; but with respect to fish, I think the proverb of " Mare senza pesce " * is pretty correct, when * A sea without fish. 324 RELIGIOUS TOLERATION. applied to the Gulf of Genoa, at least I saw no fish of a superior description at any of the places where I dined. Every one has heard of the Maccarone of Italy, the greater part of which is made at Genoa, and from thence exported all over Europe ; and it is a pleasure to see the shops where it is sold they are so tastefully arranged ; every shape and size of largne, fidele and vermi- celle, being displayed to attract customers. The Genoese derive a very lucrative trade from these pastes, the sale of which enables them to levy an annual contribution on every town in Italy. It is impossible to travel in Italy without mak- ing some observations on its religion. However much attached one may be to the Protestant faith, some allowance must be made for the natural bias of others in favour of that creed, which has been handed down to them by their fathers. It would be a nice point to determine, whether Roman Ca- tholics or Protestants are most exclusive in their principles. Lady Morgan says that all religions are equally so ; and that it matters not whether St Peter, St Paul, or St Sophia, be the metropolitan church ; as all Catholics, Protestants, and Mahommedans, are alike bigoted and exclusive in their faith ; and had they the power would still persecute each other with as much rancour as they did in times past. I confess that I have heard just as liberal senti- ments on religious topics, and even on doctrinal points, expressed by well informed priests, as by English high- church-men ; and during my stay at Genoa, I became acquainted with the learned and ingenious Abate S * * * *, the author of some erudite works, whom I mention as an instance THE ABATE s * * * *. 325 of liberality, having been much pleased with his able reasoning in regard to the ceremonies of the Catholic Church. One day he was kind enough to accompany me to see the cathedral, during the celebration of high mass, and good-naturedly lis- tened to my various objections as to the number of pictures and images in churches, the many ce- remonies, the Latin ritual, and, finally, the super- stitions of Popery, contrasted with the pure and more simple Protestant mode of worship. In re- ply to these objections he mildly set out by aU lowing, that he should probably be more inclined to become an iconoclast, than an advocate for pictures and images in churches, notwithstanding that he appreciated them as the sublimest speci- mens of painting and sculpture. " Still," said he, " it is well known that these ought only to be looked upon with that feeling of awe and respect which a family-portrait inspires us with ; recalling to our recollection the virtues of a beloved and lamented father, wife, or child. Unfortunately, it is true, superstitious and ignorant people may be apt to carry their veneration too far ; losing sight of the saint, which an image merely represents, and transferring their devotion to the inanimate stone ; but from the earliest times, the temples of the Deity have been decorated with such adventitious aids, which, from natural associations, confer a greater degree of fer- vour on the devotions of the people, heightening their faith and zeal, when combined with the other externals of a sublime form of worship. " He jocularly added, that " Catholicism may be called the comedy, and Calvinism the tragedy, of Religion : the former is an antiquity, and respects 2d 326 CATHOLICISM. its antiquities ; but the latter has stripped it of every attractive pleasure to the senses, with a mis- taken zeal worthy of its reformers. These having neither heart nor eye for beauty, commenced with the destniction of the venerable buildings of their forefathers. Extending their sacrilegious fury with as little reluctance to the finest Madonnas of the old masters, as they had already evinced when abolishing the most splendid statues, without the slightest regard for their excellence as monuments of art, they discarded from their places of worship all that was most delightful, even instrumental music ; as if anxious to obliterate, with every out- ward form and ceremony, every trace of antiquity ; and their deeds are therefore recorded in the pages of history with disgrace. In tracing the origin of any sect, " he continued, " we find ourselves stopped as soon as we come to the author of it. Catholics trace theirs up to Christ and his a- postles, from St Peter, the first who filled ihe pa- pal chair, through a long and regular succession of Popes, governing the Church, each, in his turn, as he found it established before him. When we arrive at the Reformation, we find Luther, Calvin, and a variety of other founders of sects, forming separate communions, broaching new, or reviving old exploded doctrines ; but here the chain is broken, and the succession stops. Before that date, we can trace nothing to guide us, as to the new articles of faith then introduced. We must therefore suppose, that, until that time, there wa^ no true Church of Christ subsisting on earth ; for if there were, the reformers, by starting a new sect, forsook and renounced it ; and if there were CATHOLICISM. 327 not, then the lie is given to the creed, which had proposed, as an object of belief, a thing that did not exist. I am of opinion, that it is impossible to argue any one into a belief of transubstantia- tion, or to compel it by the weapons of polemical warfare ; but those who neither doubt consubstan- tiation, nor the doctrine of the trinity, both of which are mysteries as difficult to be conceived, need not hesitate in assenting to the doctrine of the real presence, although it can neither be pro- ved to a demonstration, nor reduced to a mathe- matical certainty, any more than the other funda- mental points of religion. If we are not posses- sed of implicit faith, then all the sacred mysteries must be rejected. Why select one in preference to another ? Any one who will take the trouble (and surely it is worth it) to investigate the sub- ject dispassionately, will find it safer to abide by a fixed rule of faith, than to embrace any new doctrine, arising from private interpretation of scripture, which must have misled many whose judgment has proved erroneous, as the effect shows, hundreds of sects having sprung up, every one differing from, and condemning the other ; some rejecting the trinity, some baptism, and o- thers even denying the efficacy of any sacrament whatever. When pressed by Scripture, these elude it, by pretending to fly to tradition ; but when tra- dition is urged against them, they abandon it to appeal to the Scriptures alone ; whereas both the one and the other confute them. They cannot all be right on their own showing. All Catholics o- bey the church, and consider her ministers as their instructors, and ex- officio interpreters of the di- 328 ERRONEOUS HYPOTHESIS. vine word, which is equally open for the perusal of clergy and laity. " The whole of this reasoning, of course, is er- roneous, depending upon the paralogism that the Reformers were founders of sects, when in fact they removed the impositions of sects, and again opened access to the uncontaminated Scriptures. I, however, considered it unnecessary to interrupt the good Abate, being more anxious to elicit his opinion, than to enter into dispute. " The ceremonies, " he proceeded, " are objects of minor importance. We follow the old form of worship as adopted in the first Christian ages, and handed down to us, with the Scriptures, by the Eusebiuses, the Jeromes, and the Augustines, to whom we owe the translations of holy writ, and on whose writings, and those of other eminent fathers and doctors of the church, its tradition is formed. ** The languages at that time most dominant, were the Syro-Chaldaic, or modern Hebrew, Greek and Latin, in which the liturgies were compiled. The church, ever tenacious of antiquity, admitting no innovations, on the principle that religion, differ- ing from all human institutions, is not susceptible of improvement, retained the form of public prayer in the ancient languages, long after modern tongues were generally spoken, her faith being so inti- mately connected with the primitive expression of her liturgies." Here, again, the Abate was at fault ; for the gift of tongues, and consequently the power (im- plying the duty) of communicating religion in different languages, was one of the first fruits of the spirit, conferred upon the apostles them- LEAVE GENOA. 329 selves. Still, however, it must be highly gra- tifying to a Catholic when he travels, to find every where a service celebrated, to the ceremonies and language of which he has been always ac- customed, however distant from home. The mo- ment he enters a church, he ceases to be a stran- ger, being united in one faith, language and com- munion, with all the faithful of ancient and modern times. After nearly a week's agreeable sojourn at Ge- noa, and having seen all that it offered worthy of notice, I set off in one of the stages for Savona, previously agreeing with a vetturino to be fur- nished with a cabriolet from thence to Nice. I found that a Frenchman was to be one of my fellow- travellers, whose manner and appearance were not very prepossessing. During his residence in Italy, he had acquired a perfect knowledge of its lan- guage, as well as a considerable share of its low cunning, of which I had a specimen when making the necessary arrangements for my journey. The Frenchman was present, but had not then con- cluded his bargain ; and I was in hopes he would take a passage by sea, as he pretended to have a decided preference for it ; but I soon saw it was only in order to make a better bargain for him- self. By a good deal of manoeuvring, he succeed- ed in getting a conveyance for one-third less than I paid, and afterwards boasted of his own suc- cess at my expense ; a circumstance that did not tend to raise him much in my estimation. Having hitherto been extremely fortunate in regard to com- panions on the road, I did not like the idea of 2d2 330 ROADS -• ARREZZANO. being tete-a-tete, for three or four days, with one of so different a stamp. A new road has been constructed along the Riviere di Ponente, by the mountainous coast, opening a direct communication from Genoa to Nice and France. The couriers and also many travellers now pass this way, as it is preferable to hiring a felucca, or going round by Turin. Until within these few years, Genoa was accessible by land only over the difficult road of the Bochetta ; but it is now open in three directions, by fine car- riage-roads ; one by Turin and Milan, another by the Riviere di Levante, over which I travelled from Pisa ; and lastly, this new road, which was very much expedited, that the King of Sardinia might return from Nice, a few months before, without passing the Col di Tende. These improvements ought to be highly appreciated, from their beneficial effect, and the immense advantages they oflfer to the inland commerce and industry of the country, by the greater facilities of communication which they afford. We passed through a number of villages, and proceeded at a rapid pace over a fine level road, until we got to Arrezzano, none of my fellow- travellers being more agreeable than the French- man. Finding we were to stop at a mean-looking little inn for an hour or two, I left them to enjoy their maccaroni and salt fish fried in oil, and pro- ceeded straight to the kitchen, where I intended, in preference, sitting down quietly among the sail- ors and boors, who crowded round a great fire, and where I had reason to expect more amuse- ment. The fire, however, was composed of wood AGREEABLE INCIDENT. S31 SO green and wet, that the smoke soon compelled me to reject the well-meant civility of several fellows who had offered me their seats ; and as a last resource, I sallied forth to keep my feet warm by exercise. The wintry blast howled around in strong gusts, and dark clouds hovered heavily over the wide and agitated waters of the Mediterranean, the hoarse murmur of whose waves breaking against the shore, answered to the mourn- ful sound of the wind. My walk soon terminated at a lonely house ; and, dreading a wet afternoon, I ventured to seek shelter, having so good an ex- cuse for my intrusion ; and not being in Scipio's habitual frame of mind, who said " he was never less alone than when alone ; " for I was rather tired of my own company, and felt as if impelled to walk into a place which so invitingly presented it- self, instead of the cold, dirty, and uncomfortable village-inn. After the slight degree of surprise occasioned by my unceremonious entrance had subsided, I was wel- comed by an elderly man, who was seated by the couch of a young female, holding her wrist gently in his hand, and inquiring into the nature of her ailment. The doctor (for such he proved to be), by a natural turn of conversation, soon discovered my motive for so unexpectedly visiting his patient, whose re- clining position on the sofa, and somewhat languid expression, indicated rather a serious illness. I soon found, however, that she was sufficiently convalescent to dispense with the doctor's skill, to which she attributed her recovery, and to whom she was very lavish in her thanks. In a few mi- nutes we were joined by an old lady, who cairied 332 JUVENILE NAVIGATORS. in her hand an earthen pot or small hrazier, full of wood, ashes, and ignited charcoal, the common but unhealthy Italian substitute for the cheerful blaze of a fire. I did great violence to truth in compli- menting the ladies on a number of paintings, of the genuine sign-post school, which covered the walls of their sala; but the elderly personage, probably aware of the picture-hunting Anglomania, seemed to consider it indispensable, that all such visitors should admire them ; and as a remunera- tion for the politeness and urbanity of her man- ner towards me, I complied with the rule of the house. A cup of coffee and a glass of rosoglio were now handed to me, and at the same time the medical attendant was presented with his customary refreshment. In the ante-room 1 found two boys with a chart spread out before them on the table, busy studying navigation. I, of course, examined their books and slates, and commended their application to so useful a science. One of them, a very fine lad about fourteen, when I ex- pressed a hope that he might one day become a second Columbus, assured me that the neighbour- ing village was the birth-place of that celebrated navigator; a circumstance of which I was not pre- viously aware, the States of Piedmont, Placen- lia, and Liguria, having all laid claim to this dis- tinction, which was long disputed. Nor do I know that the point lias ever been decided, although Genoa is generally allowed the preference* On my return to the inn, my fellow-travellers were in warm altercation witli the landlady about the charges in her bill ; and I was surprised at the knowing manner in which one of them discussed SAVONA. 333 every item, telling her to a soldo the value of each dish, and even of its component parts, until I dis- covered that he was a Genoese cook. The dis- pute lasted a very long time ; until, fatigued with the incessant noice, I ordered a farewell flask of wine, which fortunately put a stop to the wrang- ling between these town and country professors of gastronomy. Late in the evening we arrived at Savona, where good fare, a comfortable room, and a well frequented inn, were the enjoyments that awaited me. Savona is a place of considerable ex- tent, and contains several buildings of some beau- ty, particularly the palace of the Prefecture, the residence, or rather the prison of the late Pius VII., when he was carried away from Rome, in 1809, by orders of Napoleon. Here were conducted the discussions about the famous concordat, during which Buonaparte said he found his Holiness wil- ling to leave the Church, in all things to take care of her own concerns, and to resign all, save his temporal sovereignty. The dignified resignation, yet firm remonstrances of Pius, warrant our dis- belief of this assertion. A couple of cabriolets were at the door long before sunrise ; and 1 was highly pleased to find that the agent of our vetturino had engaged both, as they were returning to Nice, — a circumstance which afforded me an opportunity of taking pos- session of one of them, which I had altogether to myself, as the drivers prefer walking most of the way, or rather running along by the side of their horses. Large four-wheeled carriages may pass alongst this road; but for greater safety, particu- larly in winter, or in crossing the beds of moun- 334 NOLI ONEGLIA. tain-torrents, small light one-horse gigs are prefer- able. Being so neai* the maritime Alps, I now found it excessively cold in the mornings and even- ings ; but during the day a clear, dry, bracing at- mosphere, and warm sunshine, made it extremely pleasant. The first place we passed through after leaving Savona was Noli, a well-built little fishing town, with a good harbour for boats, and a castle for its defence. Notwithstanding its insignificance, it is the residence of a Bishop. Finale, where we stopped a couple of liours, and took some refresh- ment, is a much larger and better built town, sur- rounded by orchards and olive-trees. It was for- merly the capital of a marquisite belonging to Spain; but having fallen into the hands of the Em- peror during the war of the Succession, he sold it for six millions of livres to the Genoese govern- ment. Like the rest of the tenitory of that re- public, it is now incorporated with Sardinia. Continuing our route along the western coast, we passed several villages, such as Albenga and Allassio, the abodes of trade and industry. It is wonderful to think what the inhabitants of this na- turally barren soil have been able to accomplish. The sea is their chief resource, and the numerous population live by commerce and fisheries. Orange- groves and dark olive-trees are seen all along the sides of the hills, even to their craggy naked sum- mits. As we approached Oneglia, wliere we re- mained the whole night, we found the cultivation of the olive very general. The soil is schistous and slaty, such as Virgil recommends ; and the neighbourhood, for many miles round, forms one continual grove, which produces the best oil of the MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 335 whole country, except that of Lucca. From this small sea-port it is forwarded to different parts of the Mediterranean. During the next day, many parts of the road reminded me of the magnificent bridges and gal- leries of the Alps, by the passage of the Simplon. The whole of the way is but a narrow space be- tween the sea and the chain of Apennines, the sides of which are cut into terraces, and planted with olive-trees. The most frightful and stupend- ous rocks and precipices line the coast. Many of them have been perforated, and others are con- nected by solid bridges. The mountains and tor- rents are not on the sublimest scale, but this is compensated by the numerous bays, promontories, and flourishing villages which are presented to the view ; and beyond all the grandeur of the coup d'ceil extending over the unbounded horizon of the Me- diterranean, the waters of which shine in gradual hues, from the distant sea-green to the nearer dark blue, until converted into white surf beating against the rocks, which rise almost perpendicularly from the beach. CHAPTER XIV. SARDINIAN STATES, CONTINUED. The whole distance between Genoa and Nice is about 100 miles, amid the grandest combina- tions of mountain and sea. Until this year, the journey was always performed on muleback, or in feluccas, the latter occupying travellers about three days, unless the wind was very favourable. If it happened to be contrary, passengers were compelled to land at some of the towns along the coast, where the inns were represented as detestable, and the pro- visions both bad and dear. A sudden change must have taken place in these respects, for I found every thing of the very best, both as to living and beds, and the charges moderate. I am the more parti- cular in mentioning these circumstances, as this road is yet but little known, and erroneous notions are entertained respecting its accommodation. An- tiquities or ruins there are none ; but in point of scenery, I found it equal to any part of my tour. We next baited at Port Maurice, an excellent har- bour for the export of oil, which forms a very con- siderable, if not the only article of its trade. In this, as well as in several other apparently insignificant places which we passed through, there are wealthy ST REMO — PRINCE OF MONACO. 337 merchants and shipowners, who trade with Portugal, the Levant, and all over the Mediterranean ; and I observed the harbours crowded with small craft. The natives of the many trading marts along the coast of Genoa are excellent sailors. As the fish- eries form so advantageous a nursery for seamen, it would be an easy matter for the Sardinian go- vernment to fit out a respectable navy, which would, at all events, be able to cope with their inveterate enemies the Barbary powers, who have long been the scourge of all the petty Mediterra- nean states. From the little town of St Remo, which is de- lightfully situated on the declivity of a hill, we pro- ceeded next morning to Ventemiglia, the frontier town of the Genoese territory. A very romantic drive of several hours brought us to Mentone, a small town belonging to the Prince of Monaco, who has regained his humble dominions, of which he was deprived, like many more powerful sovereigns, dur- ing the reign of Napoleon. This prince, it seems, had scarcely been grateful for favours actually re- ceived, and is supposed to have merited the abrupt dismissal — " Allez, vous coquin, " and kick— ^ posteriori, which he received from Buonaparte, when they unfortunately happened to meet while the latter was on his route from Elba to Paris. This principality has a territory of a few square miles, and only contains two towns, of which Monaco is the capital. It is situated on an isolated rock, projecting into the sea, and forms a very picturesque object ; and is well defended by nature, as well as a strong battery and cita- del. Its population scarcely exceeds 1000. The 2 k 338 BEAUTIFUL WOMEN. palace is beautiful, and contains a very fine cof- lection of works of art. The forts of this petty prince are garrisoned by Piedmontese troops, a» he is subordinate to the King of Sardinia. We spent a couple of hours here, and I breakfasted, or rather dined, with my fellow-traveller for the first time. I said something civil on the occa- sion, and proposed a walk to see the town. We were particularly fortunate in having so favourable an opportunity of observing the people. It being Sunday, the whole population were passing through the principal square in returning from church, be- ing clothed in their best attire ; and I never, on any occasion, saw so many beautiful women assembled. It is true, their complexions exhibited the effects of a warm sun, but their fine features, high foreheads, aquiline noses, and bright dark eyes, were quite en- chanting. There was scarcely none amongst them who could not justly boast of more than an aver- age of charms. Certainly the female subjects of this petty prince are more indebted to nature, than even any of their fair sisters of the rest of Italy. The Genose ladies are not handsome, but they are fond of being admired. What our immortal bard said of the sex in general, " Oh frailty, thy name is woman ! " may be aptly applied to them, especially amongst the higher classes, who are noted for their predilection to cicesbeism. Their patito or cavaliero servente is their shadow at church, at the opera, in their own houses or those of their friends ; and in reward for his gallantry he has a general invi- tation to their table. These attachments are some- times platonic ; and the husband being absorbed in commercial affairs, politics, or other avocations, NICE. 339 has neither time nor patience to attend to his wife's whims and caprices. In the north of Italy the women are tall, ruddy, and comely ; but in every province there is a distinct and different style of beauty. The Venetians are graceful and noble in their carriage ; the Romans have fine features, vivid black eyes, with captivating expressive foreheads, luxuriant and perfect forms, without a single de- fect in their proportions. The same evening we arrived at Nice, which is well worth a visit. For beauty of situation, plea- sant walks, and mildness of climate, the county of Nice is considered one of the most delightful regions in Europe. Orange and lemon trees grow- ing luxuriantly in the open air, and the rareness of rain, or even cloudy days, convey the impression of a perpetual spring. Such natural advantages at- tract many consumptive and other invalids from colder climes, as the surrounding Alps completely shelter the town from the north winds, while it is open to the beneficial and genial influence of the south ; and though the distant mountains are often covered with snow, it never lies in the plain. Here there are no ancient monuments ; and one might say, as an acquaintance of mine did at Berne on his return from Italy, " Thank God, we are at length arrived at a place where there are neither churches nor pictures to be seen I " This is not strictly true with regard to Nice, however ; and if it were, I should not have congiatulated myself upon such a circumstance. The old part of Nice, like other antiquated towns, is irregular, with narrow streets, and shabby houses. The modern city is built on a regulai* plan, with fine squares, spa- 340 ENVIRONS OF NICE. cious streets, and handsome edifices, extending along the sea-coast in a triangular form. An ele- vated terrace, formed by the long flat roofs of a line of shops, about twenty feet high, is much ad- mired, and resorted to in winter, as a pleasant promenade ; but at any other season, owing to its great exposure, the heat of the sun is much too powerful, even without the reflection of its rays from the sea. It excludes, however, the short damp walk ornamented with a double row of trees called the Corso, in its rear, from the view as well as from the bracing sea-air. The well cultivated environs of Nice are prefer- able as a residence to the town itself. The soil is rich, luxuriant, and verdant, and the peasantry derive their chief resource from the cultivation of the vines, which are gracefully festooned on peach and almond-trees. For many miles around the hills are covered with country-houses, all paint- ed different colours, which give them a lively ap- peai'ance, when viewed between the dark green of the olive, or the brighter hue of the orange- groves. This can scarcely be called a pait of Italy, and I think the hotels show the difference as much as any thing else. The Hotel des Etrangers is equal to any in France, and superior to Italian albergos. The several English families residing at Nice ge- nerally take houses in the Fauxbourg of la Croix de Marbre, about a mile from the town ; attracted by the soft balmy purity of the air, and the excellence of the lodging-houses, built expressly for the nu- merous invalids who frequent the place for the be- nefit of their health. Montpellier and Nice were formerly like English colonies ; but now the case VILLA FRANCA — GALLEY-SLAVES. 341 is very different. The one place is by no means so much resorted to, and the other is abandoned al- together. The superior attractions which Flo- rence and Naples present, in point of society and amusement ; and which Pisa or Genoa offers as to climate, have contributed to the partial desertion of this delightful spot. For my own part, how- ever, I should certainly recommend it to a valetu- dinarian in preference to any other place of the kind which I have visited on the Continent. One day I accompanied an acquaintance whom I happened to meet, down to Villa Franca, a small seaport situated on the other side of the hill. Its strong fortress may defend this place for a short time ; but on the land side, it is commanded by the surrounding hills. The wretched galley-slaves (of whom it contains a large depot) lead a horrible life, no doubt a just punishment for their crimes, though human nature revolts at their state of suf- fering, — their hard labour and misery. We went on board the only galley in the dock, which mounted three long guns, and 40 oars, rowed by 120 men, each chained to his station, and guarded by marines. The convicts are employed working on the roads and fortresses, as they are now seldom sent to sea. A few years ago, they accumulated to so great a number, that the government, having no colonies of its own, was compelled to transport them to Brazil, in virtue of an arrangement with Portugal, by which means both countries gained, — the one by getting rid of many of its worst subjects, and the other in acquiring some good soldiers, and «ven useful citizens, which they soon became, when removed from the scene of their former habits. 2e 2 342 SOCIETY OF NICE. On our return to Nice, my friend requested that I would assist him in recovering some books which had been seized by the customhouse- officers on his entering the Sardinian States a few days be- fore. There were not more than a dozen volumes ; but so particular are the authorities to prevent the introduction of certain books, that we had to ap- ply first to the Vicar-General, who certified that the catalogue contained no works against religion or morality. We then proceeded to the Prefect, a kind of judge or censor, whose functions are very different from those of the ancient Roman, or mo- dern French magistrate of the same name ; but his signature was not deemed sufficient ; for there was yet another formality required, before pro- ducing the document at the customhouse, where the books were at length restored, on payment of some trifling fees. The society of this place is very good during the carnival and the winter ; for, independently of the intercourse of so many foreigners among them- selves at that season, the Governor gives a weekly soiree, and occasional balls, to which strangers are invited. There is also a theatre for the performance of Italian operas, and for public balls and concerts. The language of the people is now neither French nor Italian. Like their manners and character, it is a mixture of both. The better classes speak French correctly, and without any accent ; but the lower orders have a dialect resembling the Provencal patois. The warlike princes of the House of Savoy wei-e the only Italian sovereigns who, during the seventeenth century, raised themselves above the ABDICATING KINGS — REVIEW. 343 level of their ignorant and degenerate contem- poraries generally at that period plunged in vo- luptuous idleness, imitating the bad example of the Austro- Spanish monarchs, who possessed more than half of Italy. These fine states (for certainly Genoa and Piedmont deserve such de- signation) have now fallen into the feebk hands of a degenerate prince, a third brother, who has succeeded to the throne, under rather extraor- dinary circumstances. The eldest brother, Charles Emanuel, abdicated in favour of the second, Victor Emanuel, who, in his turn, to avoid accepting the constitution which the troops wished to force upon him in 1822, resigned his unsteady sceptre to the present King, Charles Felix. The obsti- nate resistance which Charles opposed to innovation on that occasion, was not natural to a man of his easy and timid disposition. It ought rather to be ascribed to his absence from the scene of action, which secured him from any personal danger ; while the large Austrian force that crossed the frontiers, soon succeede