Th< THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES The Parish of Longforgan The Parish of Longforgan A Sketch of its Church and People BY THE REV. ADAM PHILIP, M.A. Free Church, Longforgan With Six Illustrations EDINBURGH & LONDON OLIPHANT ANDERSON & FERRIER PRINTED BY MORRISON AND GIBB, EDINBURGH FOR OLIPHANT ANDERSON & FERRIER LONDON AND EDINBURGH PREFACE THIS is simply a sketch, but it will, I trust, be found sufficiently careful to form a contribution to the better knowledge of the Parish. The story is a quiet one, but it has all the interest of common life, and- some points of contact, at least, with the wide world of thought and struggle. Both good men and great have trodden our fields. The notes have been gathered from many books. Most of these are named in the text, in justice to their authors, and to facilitate the search of other labourers. The tale is not, by any means, entirely bright. But I hope that these gleanings from musty records and books ancient and modern may lead the men of to- day to cherish more reverently the memory 5 LIBRARY 534815 6 PREFACE of their fathers. To those who courteously permitted me to examine records in their keeping I owe special thanks. ADAM PHILIP. LONGFORGAN, 1895. CONTENTS PAGE I. LONGFORGAN II II. HISTORIC MEMORIES 23 III. ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY. . 41 IV. EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND .... 73 V. AT THE HUNDHIL OF LANGFORGRUND IN 1385 . 85 VI. CASTLE HUNTLY 93 VII. A LONGFORGAN LAIRD IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 109 VIII. THE PRE-REFORMATION CHURCH, ETC. . . 131 IX. A LIST OF MINISTERS IN LONGFORGAN, WITH BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES AND GLIMPSES OF PARISH LIFE 147 X. THREE LONGFORGAN WORTHIES .... 269 XI. APPENDIX 291 XII. INDEX 3 J 7 ILLUSTRATIONS THE RUINED CHURCH OF INVERGOWRIE. From Photo by David Paterson 45 CELTIC STONE IN INVERGOWRIE CHURCH. From Photo by David Paterson 59 SCULPTURED STONE IN INVERGOWRIE CHURCH. From Photo by David Paterson ... 63 CASTLE HUNTLY. From Photo by David Paterson . 97 THE OLD CROSS OF LONGFORGAN. From Photo by David Paterson 123 LONGFORGAN CHURCH WITH TOWER OF 1690. From Photo by Haden Couper 181 1 1 See, crouching quietly at her feet, Inchture's sweet hamlet, warm and neat ; And eastward, three Scotch miles or so, Where sheltering trees few shadows throw, Old Forgan stretches to the day, And sleeps the sultry hours away ; While all between, and far around, O'er sloping hill and level ground, The scattered farm-steadings show The same bright, trusting, drowsy glow. " The Tay," by David Millar. 12 I LONGFORGAN THE Carse of Gowrie may be roughly described as being in the form of a parallelogram. The river Tay bounds it on the south and west; the Sidlaws on the north ; Forfarshire on the east. It has three parishes that may be said to be low-lying Inchture, Errol, St. Madoes. Four are chiefly upland or hilly Kinfauns, Kilspindie, Kinnaird, Abernyte. A part of Kinnoull also lies in the Carse. Longforgan, to which Fowlis Easter and Liff adjoin, runs up a whole side, from the river to the Sidlaws, and is partly lowland and partly upland. It forms with Fowlis the eastern extremity of Perthshire and of the Carse. Some doubt exists as to the meaning of the name Longforgan. It is spelt variously Langforgend, Langforgand, Lanfortin, Langforgund, Lanforgonde, Langforgond, 13 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Langforgonde, Langfargunde, Langforgound, Langforgown, Langforgrunde, Langforgrund, Langforgund, Longfortin, Longforgund, Long- forgunde, Lonforgaund, Longforgun, Long- forgane, Longforgen, Forgan, Forgund, For- gounde, Forgrund, Fforgan, Fforgone, etc. Three suggestions have been made, (i) The first is that it means "long fore- ground." "The ancient name of the parish," says a writer in the New Stat. Account, " seems to have been somewhat different from the present, as appears from a grant of the lands and barony of ' Longforgund ' or ' Lon- forgaund' by King Robert Bruce, in the year 1315, to Sir Andrew Gray of Broxmouth. The epithet long, which is quite appropriate to the village, and by no means unsuitable to the parish itself, is prefixed probably to distinguish it from two other parishes Forgan, in Fife, nearly opposite to Dundee, and Forgandenny, in Strathearn, another district of Perthshire. Forgan or Forgund, in the absence of a better or more certain derivation, has been alleged to signify foreground a term, in fact, by which the parish is not unfitly described." This explanation, however, cannot be regarded as satisfactory. LONGFORGAN (2) A second suggestion is that it gets its name from one of the hill -forts of antiquity. "The ancient name of this parish," says Dr. Marshall, in his Historic Scenes in Perthshire, "seems to have been Longfortin. It is so named in the life of St. Modwenna, who flourished in the sixth century. . . . On the top of the hill of Dron in this parish have been found traces of an oval fortification occupying an area of upwards of two acres. There seems no reason to doubt that these are the traces of one of those many hill-forts which our remotest ancestors, of whom we have any knowledge, had too much occasion to raise, for their protection and security, against both foreign invasion and intestine insurrection." (3) A third and much more likely sugges- tion is that the "long" in Longforgan is the same as " Ian," " llan," which means a church. One of the early forms of the name is Lan- fortin ; and, in view of the connection of Long- forgan with St. Modwenna, it is extremely probable that the " Ian " in Lanfortin is a church. The Rev. James Johnston, in his Place-Names of Scotland, says of the meaning of F organ and Longforgan : 16 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN " Forgan (N. Fife), 1250 Forgrund. Per- haps Gaelic, fothir grunda, ' land with bottom' or 'ground,' i.e. good subsoil." " Longforgan (Dundee), c. 1 160 Forgrund ; 1461 Langforgend ; but Acta Sanctorum, Lanfortin, where ' Ian ' must mean ' church.' A church is said to have been built here, a. 500, by St. Monenna or Medana. ' For ' may be Old Gaelic, fothir, ' bit of land ' ; but the whole name is perplexing." The parish of Longforgan is long but narrow about eight miles in length, and from one to four in breadth. Its scenery is of the most varied character. The finest panoramas, perhaps, are to be got from the tower of Castle Huntly and from the hill of Dron. Looking from Dron away to the north, the eye rests on the bald chain of the Sidlaws ; westwards, on the Carse, appearing almost as flat as a bowling- green, the beautiful woods of Rossie, and the braes above Kinnaird; eastwards, on the fertile slopes that reach Dundee. In front, and at a little distance beneath you, lies Longforgan village; beyond, rolls the noble Tay ; and beyond them both rise the shores of Fife, crowned by the Lomonds ; whilst away to the south and west stretch the Ochils and the Grampian chain. LONGFORGAN 17 The population of the parish keeps pretty steady, the losses of one part being nearly balanced by the gains of another. In 1755 it was 1285; in 1795 it was 1526; in 1811 it was 1809; by 1821, through depression of trade, it had fallen considerably, but in 1831 it had increased to 1638. In 1881 it stood at 1854, but at last census it had fallen to 1779. This population is fairly scattered, but it has its chief centres in the villages of Longforgan, Kingoodie, and Mylnefield, now commonly known as Invergowrie. At Mylnefield there was an earlier hamlet, Balbunnoch, part of which is still to be seen behind the Free Church. A map of 1817 calls it Balbonachy. Older forms of the name are Balbunnok, Balbunnock, Balbonnie. It means probably the homestead or dwelling at the foot of the hill or brae. (Gaelic, bail, a dwelling ; bonn or bun, signifying the foot or end of anything ; nock is Gaelic cnoc, a hill.) Last century, before Mylnefield took its rise, there was a small village at Lochton, belonging to Mr. Haldane, the proprietor of Airthry. There were also a good many hamlets both in, and on the borders of, the parish. Across the stream which washes Balbunnoch, there were 1 8 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN a number of cottar homes. Between the pre- sent village of Kingoodie and Monorgan, there were little groups of houses. But these and others have disappeared. "The reasons you give for this decrease are quite satisfactory. It is by the ingrossing of land into few hands, and driving the people either out of the country altogether, or into towns where they are con- sumed by vices and diseases. In this way the great gentlemen swallow up the lesser, the great tenants the small, and the crofters or cottagers, who were by far the most numerous of these three orders of men, are, in many parts of Scotland, almost totally extirpated" (Lord Monboddo, 1780). In former times, a considerable weaving industry was carried on at Longforgan, and in other parts of the parish. About the end of last century, the people were most successful in raising crops of lint. Down to 1864, linens were woven in handlooms, to a moderate extent, in the parish. (Warden, The Linen Trade, p. 519.) There were about 150 looms in 1840. Then there were extensive quarries at Kingoodie. The former industry (weaving) has ceased ; the latter, after a long pause, have been reopened, but, for the most part, the LONGFORGAN 19 industry is agricultural, except at Invergowrie, where the Bullionfield Paper Mills give em- ployment to a large number of people. The land, most of which is under cultivation, is well wrought, and is divided into a number of farms. Several families have their residences in the parish. The chief are Mylnefield, Castle Huntly, and Lochton. Rossie Priory, the seat of Lord Kinnaird, is in the parish of Inchture ; but his lordship is a considerable landowner in Longforgan. Formerly, the Lords Kinnaird had a residence in the parish, called Drimmie (Gaelic, druim, a ridge cognate with Latin dorsum, a back or ridge which describes the appearance of the ground perfectly). When Moncur Castle was burned down in the beginning of last century, the Kinnairds moved to Drimmie, where they resided till Rossie was built. Drimmie "originally consisted of a lodge built as a banqueting-room, in order to facilitate conviviality with the then proprietors of the estate of Castle Huntly ; and to this lodge additions have been made from time to time, as necessity dictated" (Old Stat. Ace., xix. p. 479). There are now no traces of Drimmie. A large part of Balruddery is also in Long- 20 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN forgan. Most of these estates are finely wooded, with oak, beech, ash, elm, lime, chest- nut, and plane. According to Robertson, in his General View of the Agriculture in the County of Perth, there were ashes at Castle Huntly (circa 1810) whose trunks measured from 19 to 27 feet in circumference. He quotes this in reply to Dr. Johnson's taunt that there were no trees of value in Scotland. The Glamis Tree measured 2 7 feet near the root and 1 7 feet a yard above the ground. One of the approaches to Castle Huntly from the turnpike is through a grand avenue of beech and ash trees. And who that remembers the beeches of Mylnefield in spring will wonder at the praise of " Fair Milnfields woods, Deep mirror'd in the murmuring river, Where, joyous to the summer wind, Their leafy broad boughs bend and shiver " ? Hunter, in his Woods and Forests of Perthshire, gives some valuable particulars about the trees on Castle Huntly estate : " Perhaps the most notable of all the trees at Castle Huntly is a grand old Scots fir, about 250 years of age, and which is in some respects as remarkable a tree of the kind as is to be seen in the country. The girth of the tree at the ground LONGFORGAN 21 is 24 feet ; at i foot up the girth is 16 feet, and at 5 feet it is 15 feet. The trunk then swells out until it has a girth of about 30 feet, and carries a magnificent head. The tree has a noble appearance, but there are indications of its breaking up. Another Scots fir, much younger, and in good condition, girths 1 1 feet 6 inches at i foot and 1 1 feet at 5 feet, with a bole of 1 5 feet. A very fine yew girths 10 feet at i foot, and 9 feet 2 inches at 5 feet from the ground, with a bole of 9 feet ; while the circumference is 68 yards, the branches sweeping the ground in beautiful style. There is another specimen of the same variety closely approaching this one in size. There is a splendid scyamore girthing 16 feet at i foot from the ground, and 1 2 feet at 5 feet, with a bole of 30 feet. A great ash, girthing about 30 feet at the ground, stood at the stable- door until it succumbed to the fury of a gale, but an excellent idea may be formed of its size from the trunk, which now forms a summer- house at Longforgan Manse. There are still several very good ash trees throughout the property, as well as oak, sycamore, elm, beech, ash, and horse-chestnut trees. There is also a nice little mixed plantation of about 60 acres " (p. 502). "The next largest (= second) 22 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN orchard in the Carse is that of Monorgan, near Longforgan, on the Castle Huntly estate. It extends to about 25 acres, and although it was probably planted about 150 years ago, it is still in a fair state of bearing " (p. 503). Benvie lies just beyond the border of Long- forgan. In front of the farmhouse there is an enormous ash tree. It "girths no less than 32 feet at the base, 25 feet at i foot from the ground, 1 9 feet at 3 feet, and 1 7 feet at 5 feet, the bole being about 27 feet" (p. 488). At Gray, which is close at hand, there are two magnificent cedars of Lebanon. II HISTORIC MEMORIES " It must have been early observed that the plain of Strath- more, the Carse of Cowrie, and the Carse of Stirling were worth fighting for, and from the dawn of the historic period onward this becomes clearer." " Scotland? by John Mackintosh, LL.D, 24 II HISTORIC MEMORIES IT may be interesting to recall, briefly, one or two of the historic memories of the parish. For abundant evidence exists in old Scottish Annals that it was once the centre of great historic scenes. The Carse of Gowrie was one of the homes of the Caledonian tribe, the " Venricones." Not far from Invergowrie, just beyond the border of the parish, the remains of a Roman camp used to be seen. It was called Cater Milley. Maitland gives a descrip- tion of it in his History and Antiquities of Scotland (vol. i. p. 215). He says that in the Carse of Gowrie, " about half a mile benorth the estuary of Tay, is a Roman camp about two hundred yards square, fortified with a high rampart and a spacious ditch ; but as the southern side appears to have been fenced with triple ramparts and ditches, these I take to have 25 26 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN been the northern fortifications of thepraetorium, the other sides being demolished by the plow, the vestigia appear but plainly. However, they are sufficient to show that this fortress was of a parallelogram form, about a quarter of a mile in length, which, from its vicinity to the Firth of Tay, I take to have been one of the camps which occasionally contained both the land and sea forces." Cater Milley is supposed by many to be a corruption of the Latin quatuor millia, which may either mark its distance from some other station or the number of troops it held. Chalmers (Caledonia, vol i. p. 177) derives it from " the British cader, a fortress, a strong- hold." There is no trace of any other Roman camp within four miles. The area of Cater Milley was large, but it is denied that it could hold four thousand men. Knox, in his Topo- graphy of the Basin of the Tay, is clear that whatever be the derivation of Cater Milley, it was the well-known Roman station Ad Tavum, near to, or upon the Tay. The tradition is that it was at Invergowrie that Agricola embarked a number of his men, after returning from the country of the Horestii. General Roy, who, it may be mentioned, had never heard of Cater HISTORIC MEMORIES 27 Milley, calculated that between three thousand and four thousand embarked ; and, as it is probable that they embarked at Invergowrie, Knox concludes that " the station may derive the name (Cater Milley) from the temporary camp of these troops being pitched on the spot where the permanent camp was afterward placed. The advantages of the situation, though still considerable, were probably much more so in the first and second centuries. The physical changes hereabout have been great ; the tradi- tion, universally prevalent through this part of the country, seems to be borne out by evidence sufficient to warrant the conclusion that the course of the Tay was formerly on the north side of the Carse, that fine river washing the skirts of the Sidlaw Hills from Balthayock to Invergowrie, to the southward of which was the influx of the Earn." Last century, coal was landed at the burn-mouth of Invergowrie. And people still living remember seeing barges load and unload there. Invergowrie may mean the mouth of almost the port of Gowrie. Ochterlony, in his account of the shire of Forfar, 1684-5, speaks of the " Gowrie which hath its beginning in the hills of the Carse of 28 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Gowrie, and falleth in the river Tay at Inner- gowrie, four myles west be Dundie." " The Burne of Innergowrie" was from an early time (1565) the recognised boundary of Perth and Forfar. According, also, to charters granted by James VI. and Charles I., the privileges and liberties of Dundee on the Tay extended "fraethe Burn-mouth of Innergarie on the west." There seems to have been in olden times a bridge at Invergowrie. John Monipennie, in An Brief e Description of Scotland (1612), says: "Next adjacent to Gowry lyes Angusse, beginning at the bridge of Innergowrie," etc. Cf. also The Scots Chronicle, which calls the Gowrie the Innergowry : "The rivers in Angus are Innergowry and Dichty," etc. The Tay attains its greatest breadth at Invergowrie Bay. i " Yon skiff that quietly leaves the shore To skim across thy breast, Must sail, I wot, a league or more Before her keel may rest." Many a vessel, some friendly, some hostile, has ploughed its waters. The Roman fleet has anchored at our shores. Pictish crafts have glided along its bosom. 1 Centuries later might be seen English ships, French ships, Flemish 1 A Caledonian canoe has just been discovered in the Tay opposite Errol. HISTORIC MEMORIES 29 ships, mercenary or merchant-laden with the in- struments of war or the merchandise of peace. In Pictish times the place was a centre of life and struggle. At the beginning of the twelfth century, Malcolm Canmore's son Edgar was carried from the Carse of Gowrie, where he was superintending the building of the castle of Baledgarno, into Dundee to die. Scotland's great champion, William Wallace, must have traversed Longforgan more than once on his way from Kilspindie to Dundee. Blind Harry sings " His modyr fled with hym fra Elrisle, Till Cowry past, and duelt in Kilspynde. In till Dunde, Wallace to scule thai send, Quhill he of witt full worthily was kend." When eighteen " Upon a day to Dunde he was send ; Off cruelness full litill thai him kend." That day was a memorable one in Wallace's life. In a moment of exasperation he killed the son of Selby, the English Governor of Dundee. Blind Harry (bk. i. 181-276) has a graphic description of the incident, and of Wallace's flight at night disguised as an old woman. On his way back to Kilspindie, he is 30 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN said to have rested at Longforgan. Not very long ago, there was a weaver in Longforgan of the name of Smith who had in his possession a stone which was popularly known as "Wallace's Stone." It was what was called a bear-stone, "hollow like a large mortar, and was made use of to unhusk the bear or barley, as a preparation for the pot, with a large wooden mell, long before barley-mells were known. Its station was on one side of the door, and covered with a flat stone for a seat, when not otherwise employed." Smith's ancestors had been in the village for five hundred years, and according to the tradition, it was one of them who supplied the future champion of Scotland with bread and milk as he rested. The stone is now at Castle Huntly. This tradition may scarcely warrant our speaking of a patriotic party in Longforgan in those days of struggle. Gowrie sent its quota of gentry, as well as Fife and Strathern, to Scone to witness the coronation of Baliol. But it is worth recalling that Sir David Inchmartin was one of those who were hanged by King Edward's order within a year of Wallace's death. And Keith, who got a grant of land in Longforgan from King Robert the Bruce, was one of the patriots of his day. It will not be HISTORIC MEMORIES 31 forgotten, besides, that Robert the Bruce had a connection with Dundee. " Syne to Dund he tuk the way. He set a sege thar to stoutly ; And lay thar quhill it yoldyn was, To Strewillyne syne the way he tais." Bar-hour's Bruce, bk. vii. 1101-1106. Further, there was land in Longforgan called " Le Bruy's part," and other land "whilkwas John Balliol's." Castle Huntly has an interesting connection with the early struggles of Reforming times. The Lord Gray of those days was a favourer of the Re- formation, who used, as Calderwood tells us, "the companie of those that professed godlinesse and careid small favour to the Cardinall " ( Beaton). I n 1544, Lord Gray was staying at Castle Huntly along with some of his friends ; and it was from thence that he was tempted out by Beaton and fell a prey to his cruelty. Knox, in his History of the Reformation, tells the story thus : " The Cardinall drew the Governour to Dundye ; for he understood that the Erie of Rothess and Maister Henrie Balnaves war with the Lord Gray in the Castell of Huntlie. The Governour send and commanded the saidis Erie and Lord with the foirsaid Maister Henrie to come unto 32 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN him to Dundye, and appointed the next day at ten houris befoir none ; which hour thei decreid to keap ; and for that purpose assemblet thare folkis at Bawgavy or thareby. (Bawgavy is 4 B alga vie near Innergowrye'). The Cardinall advertissed of thare nomber (thei war mo then thre hundreth men) thowght it nott good that thei should joyn with the toune, for he feared his awin estate ; and so he persuaded the Governour to pass furth of Dundye befoir nyne houris, and to tak the strayth way to Sanct Johnnestoun (Perth). Which perceaved by the foirsaid Lordis, thei begane to feare that thei war come to perseu thame, and so putt thame selves in ordour and array, and merched fordward of purpose to have bidden the utter- most. But the crafty fox foirseing, that in fightting stood nott his securitie, rane to his last refuge, that is, to manifest treasone ; and so consultation was tackin how that the force of the otheris mycht be broken. . . . After long communication, it was demanded, yf that the Erie and Lord and Maister Henrie foirsaid wold nott be content to talk with the Governour, providit that the Cardinall and his cumpany war of the ground ? Thei ansuerit, ' That the Governour mycht command thame HISTORIC MEMORIES 33 in all thinges lauchfull, but thei had no will to be in the Cardinallis mercy e.' Fayre premisses ynew war maid for thare securitie. Than was the Cardinall and his band commanded to depart ; as that he did according to the purpoise tackin. The Governour remaned and ane certain with him ; to whom came without cumpany the saidis Erie, Lord, and Maister Henrie. After many fair woordis gevin unto thame all, to witt, ' That he wold have thame aggreed with the Cardinall, and that he wold have Maister Henrye Balnaves the wyrkar and instrument thairof, he drew thame fordwartes with him towardis Sanct Johnnestoun whither to the Cardinall was ridden. Theibegane to suspect (albeit it was to lett) and tharefor thei desyred to have returned to thare folkis for put- ting ordour unto thame.' But it was ansuerid, ' Thei should send back fra the toune, but thei most neidis go forduart with my Lord Govern- our.' And so, partlye by flatterye, and partlye by force, thei war compelled to obey. And how sone that ever thei war within the toune, thei war apprehended, and upon the morne send all three to the Black Nesse, whare thei remaned so long as that it pleased the Cardinallis graceless Grace, and that was till that the band of manrent and of service sett some of thame at libertie." 3 34 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Rather an interesting anecdote connects George Wishart the Reformer with the neighbourhood of Invergowrie. In 1545 or 1546, when he set out from Montrose to " meet the gentleman of the west at Edinburgh," Wishart came to Dundee, but there, Calder- wood tells us, " he stayed not, but went to the hous of a faithfull brother, named James Watsone, dwelling in Inner Gowrie, distant two miles from Dundie." " That night," says Calderwood, " before day he went furth to the yard. William Spaldine and Johne Watson followed quietlie, and took heed what he did. When he had walked up and down in an alley a reasonable space, with manie sobs and deepe groanes, he fell upon his knees, his groans increassing, and frome his knees he fell upon his face. The persons forenamed heard weep- ing, and an indigest sound, as it were of prayers, in which he continued almost an houre, and after beganne to be quiett, and so arose and came to his bed. They prevented him as if they had beene ignorant till he came in. Then beganne they to demand where he had beene ; but that night he would answere nothing. Upon the morrow they urged him again ; and whill he dissembled, they said, ' Mr. George, HISTORIC MEMORIES 35 be plaine with us, for we heard your mourning, and saw you both upon your knees and upon your face.' With dejected visage he said, ' I had rather yee had beene in your beds, and it had beene more profitable for you, for I was skarse weill occupied.' They still urged him to lett them have some comfort. ' I will tell you,' said he, 'that I am assured my travell is neere at an end. Therefore call to God for me, that I shrinke not now when the battell waxeth most hote.' Whill they weeped, and said that was small comfort to them, he answered, ' God sail send you comfort after me. This realm sail be illuminated with the light of Christ's Apostles. The hous of God sail be builded in it ; yea, it sail not laike whatsoever the enemie imagine in the contrarie, the very kaipstone,' meaning, that it sould once come to the full perfectioun. ' Neither,' said he, ' sail the time be long till that the glorie of God sail evidentlie appeare, and once triumphe in despite of Satan. There sail not manie suffer after me. But, alas ! if the people sail be after unthankefull, then fearefull and terrible sail the plagues be that after sail follow.' And with these words he marched fordwards in his journey toward Sanct Johnston and frome thence to Fife and then to Leith." 36 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN John Knox himself went, in 1559, with some of his brethren from Dundee to Sanct Johnstoun, "where he beganne to exhort and teache." It is likely that his road led him through Long- forgan, Longforgan being in the line of the highway between Dundee and Perth. Three years later, Queen Mary made the same journey. Not long after, Knox was appointed to visit, amongst others, the kirks of Gowrie and Menteith. James VI. rode through it on the 22nd of May 1617, on his way to Kinnaird, where he spent a week. King Charles II. stayed a night at Castle Huntly in 1650, though not exactly from choice. On the death of his father, Charles obtained the support of the Presbyterian party on a promise to meet their views. He was kept under a mild surveillance at Perth. Charles had little patience with the preachers and the Estates, and determined to leave. So one day, on the pretence of hawking, he escaped. He had no change of " clothes or linnings, more then wes one his bodey," and wore but a " thin ryding sutte of stuffe." Crossing the Tay, he rode " at a full carreire " by Inchyra to Dudhope in Dundee, from whence he went by Cortachy HISTORIC MEMORIES 37 to Glen Clova, "in al, from Perthe, the way he went, some 42 myles befor he rested." Here, "in a nastie roume, one ane old bolster aboue a matte of segges and rushes, ouerweiried and werey fearfull," the king lay down to rest. The leaders at Perth followed him, and having overtaken him in Clova, "conducted his Maiestie to Huntley Castle in the Carsse of Gourey, quher he stayed all Saterdayes night, and from thence, one Sunday in the afternoone, he came to Perth, the 6 of Octob., and hard sermon in his auen chamber of presence, the afternoon's sermon in the toune being endit before he entred the toune." (Cf. Balfour's Annales.} The incident is known as "The Start." When General Monk was engaged in the siege of Dundee, his soldiers are said to have used Castle Huntly as a cavalry station, and the church of Fowlis as a stable. Some Athole men are also reported to have come to Castle Huntly in the time of Glencairn's insur- rection against the Commonwealth in 1654. They meant mischief, and "fired a stack or two." But tjieir rage was shortlived, and they "staid and extinguished them." A slight link connects the Pretender (James VIII.) with the district. After being in 38 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Dundee in 1716, James, with his friends, made a leisurely progress through the Carse towards Perth. They halted for dinner at Castle Lyon (Castle Huntly), and then rode on to Fingask. James had a great reception at Fingask from Lady Threipland, who was a keen partisan. Her hospitalities are sung in a famous song " When the king cam' to Fingask, To see Sir David and his lady, A cod's head weel made wi' sauce, Took a hunder pund to make it ready." We can believe that the hospitalities of Longforgan were not less generous. The Strathmore family, who were then in Castle Huntly, sympathised with the Pretender. One of the Earls fell at SherifTmuir. As was natural, the Jacobite rising made a consider- able stir in the quiet life of Longforgan. But it died away quickly. Ere long, the Chevalier passed the castle again on his retreat. An unsigned letter, dated Perth, Feb. 2, 1716, gives us a peep into the state of things in the Carse. After the rebels had left Perth for Dundee, Argyle and Cadogan followed with " the English foot, three regiments of dragoons, and nine hundred and fifty detached HISTORIC MEMORIES 39 foreigners." Along with a detachment they lodged a night at Errol. The letter goes on to tell how the country gentlemen were repent- ing " their dipping in this affair." Not a thing, "dead or alive, eatable or portable, do the foreigners leave ; and the officers of the British say that to see their behaviour does so make their men's mouths water, that faith they cannot but indulge their men a little." The rebels, we are told, destroyed barnyards, and used whole stacks for firing (Hist. MSS. Report, iii. p. 370). The MSS. of the Duke of Montrose, reported on iii. pp. 368-402, con- tain some interesting glimpses of the state of feeling at Perth and Dundee. Prince Charlie was never, that we know of, in Longf organ. He was at Fingask. But in 1745, when he was in Perth, where he stayed a week, a strong body of his followers, the Macdonalds, under Keppoch and Clanranald, who heard that there were two vessels in Dundee, with arms and ammunition, marched down the Carse, through Longforgan, to Dundee, where they seized the vessels and sent them up the Tay to Perth. Next year the Duke of Cumberland led his army through the parish. The duke had been 40 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN at Perth, whose obsequious people, anxious to ingratiate themselves with him, had offered him Gowrie House as a gift. The duke was gracious enough to accept the gift, only asking, it is said, as he did, " whether the piece of ground called the Carse of Gowrie did not go along with it ? " Next week he started at the head of his army for the north, travelling first to Dundee, and then by the coast road to Aberdeen. It may be added here that a number of coins have been found in the parish, bearing the royal names of Edward, Alexander, and Robert. About 1790, an earthen pot was found with seven hundred silver coins, inscribed "Edward." Some stone coffins have also been discovered. The most interesting of these were found at the Market Knowe. This was a knoll in the old muir of Long- forgan, where the markets used to be held in the earlier part of last century. According to tradition, although the rest of the ground was covered with broom, the Knowe kept a beautiful green sward. Here some coffins have been found, " consisting of four rude longitudinal stones, and two smaller ones at each end, con- taining human skeletons." Others have been found in the neighbourhood of Cater Milley. Ill HI&TO'RJ " Chapels lurking among trees, Where a few villagers on bended knees Find solace which a busy world disdains." Wordsworth. 42 Ill THE ecclesiastical traditions and history of the parish are not without interest. It has two ecclesiastical ruins of some importance. (i) Invergowrie Church, or, as it is now commonly called, Dargie Church, stands on an almost insular knoll l washed by the Invergowrie burn, on the very borders of Forfarshire, and within a stone's throw of the Tay. The Dundee and Perth railway passes close to it, but, in spite of every change, this little church- crowned islet is one of the quietest old-time nooks in the district. It is a favourite subject for artists, and its sweet repose has made it a favourite haunt of many. The late Mr. M'Cheyne, during his first years in Dundee, " often rode out in an afternoon to the ruined 1 Probably artificial. 43 44 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN church of Invergowrie, to enjoy an hour's perfect solitude ; for he felt meditation and prayer to be the very sinews of his work." It is not certainly known when, or even by whom, the church was built. In his History of the Popes, Mill says that a church stood at Invergowrie so early as 431 A.D. This would make it perhaps the earliest church north of the Tay. We doubt if this can be claimed for it. The tradition is that it was founded by Bonifacius Queretinus, but the story of this saint is hopelessly mixed up with fable. The legend is that "he was the Pope of that name, of a Jewish stock, descended from a sister of St. Peter and St. Andrew, and born at Beth- saida ; he was ordained priest by John, the patriarch of Jerusalem, in his thirty-sixth year ; four years after he came to Rome, where he reigned more than seven years ; with seven bishops, two abbesses, and a retinue of seven priests, seven deacons, and of all the minor orders by sevens, he came to Pictland, and founded churches at Invergowrie and Resti- noth, Forfarshire. He baptized King Nectan and all his court. After evangelising and building churches among the South Picts, he went to Ross-shire, founded a church at Rose- THE RUINED CHURCH OF INVERGOWRIE. 45 ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 47 markie, and dedicated it to St. Peter ; and at the age of eighty and upwards he died at Rosemarkie, and was buried in the church of St Peter " (Smith's Dictionary of Christian Biography, i. 330). Boniface's memory is still kept alive at Rosemarkie by a well and a fair. Two of the bishops who are said to have ac- companied him were Pensandus and Madianus, whose names are perhaps preserved in Kil- spindie and St. Madoes in the Carse of Gowrie. But Johnston derives Kilspindie or Kynspinedy from Gaelic, ceann spuinneadaire, "height of the plunderer." The greater part of this story is clearly legendary. Skene thinks that the truth at the bottom of it is, that Boniface was an Italian priest who came to Scotland in the seventh or eighth century, with a view to bring the Scottish Church to adopt the Roman customs. Boniface is described as "a grave and venerable person." Archbishop Spotswood, in his History of the Church of Scotland, refers thus to his coming to Invergowrie : "Landing in the river of Tay, at the mouth of a little Water (Gobriat or Gowrie, cf. Utrecht MSS.) that divided the countries of Angus and Mernis, he there built a church to the memory of St. Peter the 48 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Apostle ; another, not far from thence, he built at Telin, and a third at Restennoth." As has been already said, it is not certain when the church was built, but it was one of the earliest north of the Tay. Two curious boulders may be seen not very far from it. Legend tells that one day whilst Dargie Church was building, Satan was standing on the hills of Fife. Incensed at the sight of the rising church, Satan took and threw those stones to destroy it. Both of them missed their mark. The one fell beyond it, and lies in the Greystane grounds (the Paddock Stone) ; the other fell short of it, and is embedded in the river. It would seem that the Prince of Darkness had a persistent ill-will to the Carse of Gowrie. Whether to revenge his defeat or not, we cannot say, but legend tells he was once desirous of coming from Kirkcaldy to the Carse. He took with him a lapful of stones, which he meant to use as stepping-stones across the Tay into the lands of Gowrie. Just as he was stepping over Benarty Hill in Kinross, he stumbled, dropping on the land beneath, the boulders that mark it. Prior to the Reformation, Dargie Church belonged to the Abbey of Scone. The Monas- ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 49 tery of Scone was a Culdee foundation of an early date. It was reformed in 1114 or 1115 by King Alexander I., who established there a community of Canons regular of St. Augus- tine, whom he brought from near Pontefract. There are two versions of the story as to how Invergowrie Church came to be attached to Scone. Sir James Balfour tells it this way : " After the death of Edgar, his brother Alexander, surnamed Ferss, succedit him. Quhill he was a priut man, he had at his christening, by the donatione of hes unckell, Donald Bane, Earle of Gowrey, the lands of Liffe and Innergowrey, quher, in the first zeire of his raing, he began then to buld a staitly palace and castle, bot was interrupted by the rebells of Meirnes and Murray, quho besett him in the night, and had doubtesly killed him, had not Alexander Carrone firmly carried the king save away . . . and by a small boat salved themselves, to Fyffe and the south pairts of the kingdom, where he raised ane armey, and marched against the forsaid rebells of Meirnes and Murray, quhome he totally overthrew and subdewed, for which great mercy and preser- vatione, in a thankful retribution to God, he foundit the monasterey of Scone ; and too it 4 50 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN gave hes first lands of Liffe and Innergowrey, in A. 1114." Wyntown in his Cronykil tells the story more picturesquely and somewhat differently. When King Edgar died in 1107, " Be-north Tay in- til Dunde," his brother Alexander was crowned king, and reigned seventeen years in honour and power. He "possessed the foreign luxuries of an Arabian horse, velvet furniture, and Turkish armour." Wyntown tells us that Alexander " Wes rycht manly ; Alysandyr the Fers for-thi [therefore] He was cald be this resowne." His palace was at Gray, not far off from Invergowrie. "In Inwergowry d Sesowne Wyth an honest Curt he bade, For thare a Maner plds he hade, And all the land lyand by Wes hys Demayne than halyly. Swa, suddanly a-pon hym then A multitude of Scottis men [Come] in entent to sla the King." Perceiving that he had knowledge of their purpose, they turned quickly and fled over the Mount. The king with his court pursued them " owre the Stockfurd into Ros." There they gathered again, intending to slay him. Undaunted by the heavy flood at the Stock- ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 51 furd, he rode across, gave chase, and overtook them, and slew them, and "or he past " Owt of that land, that fewe he left To tak on hand swylk purpose eft. Fra that day hys Legys all Oysid hym Alysandyr the Fers to call." Wyntown then goes on to tell of his return to Invergowrie. " Syne he sped hym wytht gret hy Hame agayne til Inewrgowry. And in devotyowne movyd, swne De Abbay he fowndyd than of Scwne. Fra Saynt Oswaldis in Ingland Chanownys he browcht to be serwand God, and Saynt Mychael, regulare In-til Saynt Austynys ordyr thare." In the Chartulary of Scone there are fre- quent references to the church of Invergowrie. The name appears in a good many different forms, e.g. Invergowry, Inuergourin, Inuer- gouren, Invergorin, Innergoueryn, Inuer- goueryn, Inuergouerin, Invergoveryn, Inner- gowrie, Inuergoueren, Inuergowrin, Inner- goury. The first charter of the " Liber Ecclesie de Scon " is entitled Carta Alexandri Regis de Fundatione Abbatie. This dedicates to the church of Scone certain possessions, "cum tribus carucatis Liff cum sex carucatis Grudin cum 52 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN decern carucatis Inuergourin," etc., with three ploughgates at Liff, six ploughgates at Gourdie, ten ploughgates at Invergowrie. (The two great land measures were Carucates or ploughgates, and Bovates or oxgangs.) " The oxgang contained thirteen acres, two oxgangs made a husband-land, and eight oxgangs a ploughgate, which thus consisted of 104 acres of arable land" (Skene, Celtic Scot- land, iii. 224). The fifth charter is a charter of King Malcolm, confirmatory of the gift. The sixteenth charter is entitled Carta Malcomi Regis de ecclesia de Inuergouerin. This charter is a gift to God, to the church of the Holy Trinity of Scone, and to the abbot and canons serving God there of the church of Inuergoueren, " cum dimidia carucata terre que jacet in occidentali parte ecclesie prenominate nomine Dargoch et cum omnibus pertinentiis ad eandem ecclesiam vel terram pertinentibus in liberam elimosinam " " with the half plough- gate of land which lies in the west part of the church named Dargoch, together with every- thing pertaining to the said church or land in free gift." The thirty-second charter is a charter of ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 53 King William, granting and confirming the same. And it is named in several episcopal charters, and in a papal bull of Benedict. Dargoch, now Dargie, appears also in the forms Dargon and Dargo ; and in the Chartulary, and in the Feus of Scone, are to be found a good many of the local names of the surrounding district the "landis and toun of Wester Innergowry," the land of Lyf, Ochtirlyf, Estergurdy, Vestergurdy, Myddilgurdy, Petelpy, Driburgh, Logy, Blak- nes, Balgally, Balgartynnay, Denemill, Kirk- toun of Liff, Netherliff, Brewlandis, Kirkcroft, Tempilhall, etc. We may give here an example or two from the Feus of Scone : XXXII. To umquhile David Ogilvy of Tempilhall & Christiane Gelletlie his spous half of the cornemyln of Denmyln, &c. ; i March 1585. XLI. To Johnne Watsoun the serd pairt with the auchteen pairt of the landis & toun of Wester Innergowry, etc. ; 3 March 1585. LI 1 1. To Johnne Moreis in Wester Inner- gowry and Elizebeth Blak his spous of the half of the corne myln and myllandis of Wester Innergowrie ; 5 March 1585. LXXII. To Jonet Bell relict of umquhile 54 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Robert Blak and Johnne Blak her sone the landis of Wester Innergowry; 16 March 1585. LXXXII. To umquhile William Charteris the landis of Dargo ; 16 April 1586. Next to nothing can be said of Invergowrie Kirk from the days of Alexander to days subsequent to the Reformation. A charter exists of Hugo, Bishop of St. Andrews, con- firming certain donations made by his pre- decessors, amongst others, 27 of the churches of Scone, with the chapel of Kinfans, Craigy, Rate, Liff, and Innergoury, etc. It was, like Kinfauns, in the " Baronie in Angus," and its rental, as it appears in the Rentall of the Abbacie of Scowne [1561], was The Kirk of Innergowrie . . xxlib. The Kirk of Kinfauns . . . xxxiijli. vjs. viijd. At the same time its minister seems to have been paid in kind Tua ch. beir. Tua ch. meill. In the sixteenth century the benefices of Liff, Logic, and Invergowrie were held by one incumbent. In 1551, "Dan Andro Gornar, ane of the brether of the Abbay of Scone," was "vicar of Loge, Lif, and Inergowry." One little thing links the Almshouse of the ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 55 Red or the Trinity Friars in Dundee both with Longforgan and Invergowrie. King Robert III. gave the church of Kettins, with all its fruits and revenues, perpetually to the Hospital. In time, "the oversight of the Hospital and its endowments came into the hands of the Town Council ; and it is probable that they, to meet pressing necessities, sold the Kettins' revenues in great part, as they did the teinds of Longforgan at a later time, leaving only a portion unalienated. . . . We do not know when the Trinity Friars ceased to be associated with the Hospital, but for a considerable time before the Reformation the Town Council regularly appointed Almshouse masters to take charge of the house, and to collect and disburse its revenues ; as also chaplains to minister to the spiritual wants of its inmates. . . . The Almshouse Chapel was honourably furnished, and the resident chaplain was suitably accom- modated. Before the occupation of the town by the English in 1547-48, the altar ornaments and the other valuables in the house were carried away for safety, and hid in Invergowrie. After the spoilers had gone, and the Council were beginning to restore such order as they could, they ' decernit John Watson to deliver 56 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN to the maister of the Almshouse ane silver chalice, and ane wardour bed with the curtains given to the merchants, with all other gear whilk he hes perteining thereto ; and shortly after, John Watson of Ennergowry deliverit ane silver chalice, weighing- auchteen unce spune and all, and confessit that he had ane wardour bed with twa curtains of serge per- teining to the Almshouse ' ' (Maxwell's Old Dundee prior to the Reformation, p. 66). This John Watson was <( a man of good credit." He was Knox's authority for the story of George Wishart's prayer at the house of James Watson at Invergowrie. John Watson was a relative of James. Beyond this, a reference in some charter and the mention of a few names in the Feus of Scone, we know little of the church of Inver- gowrie during this time, and can only realise its life as sharing the life of Scone, and as kindred to the life of other churches in the country. After the Reformation, Invergowrie Church was served by a Ninian Hall, who was translated to it in 1571. He had a stipend of ^5, i is. ifd., "payit be the Collectour of Angus." He was removed to Biggar before 1574. In the Register of Ministers and Readers in ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 57 the Kirk of Scotland, from the book of the Assignation of Stipends in 1574, we find that Logy, Dundee, Lyff, Invergowrie, Abirnyte, Lundie, were grouped together, and served by William Haitlie, minister, with Andro Hany, reidare at Logie and Lyff, Alexander Forbes, reidare at Invergowrie, Michael Greig, reidare at Abirnytt, George Cochrane, reidare at Lundy. Haitlie was succeeded in the charge of Invergowrie by John Christesoun. Before September 1613, the parish of Invergowrie was united to Liff, and it was also the practice at this time to present to Liff, Logie, and Inver- gowrie. The king was the patron. (The grass in the churchyard belongs to the minister of Liff, and there is also a portion of land known as the Glebe.) The present church, which stands on the foundation of an earlier one, has no claim to great antiquity. It is in ruins, which are, however, well preserved, and seen through the screen of trees that guard it, its ivy-covered walls make a pleasing picture. Architecturally, it has nothing special to mark it. But it is not all of the same age. The most interesting thing in Invergowrie Church is the sculptured work. Not very far from the end of the inner south wall may be 58 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN observed, built into it, a beautiful Celtic stone. Dr. Joseph Anderson, in his Scotland in Early Christian Times (Second Series), refers to it. The Invergowrie stone is a cross-bearing slab, and is one of the few of the erect slabs which, "like the free-standing crosses, are characterised by the absence of the symbols " (p. 81). It is two and a half feet high. The entire surface of the stone is divided into panels, " without any apparent prominence being given to one more than another " (p. 100). The interlaced work of the monument is fine. Generally it is "associated with fret- work, as in Fig. 66, at Invergowrie. ... In the general term fretwork I include almost all the varieties of pattern produced by straight instead of curved lines. The lines may inter- sect or approach each other vertically or hori- zontally, or deflect at various angles ; but they do not interlace, and they do not curve." Built also into the outside wall is another stone, on which is carved the figures of three men. Their look and dress pronounce them ecclesiastics. There is some scroll-work beneath. Two of the figures have shoulder brooches. In his Prehistoric Annals of Scot- land (vol. ii. p. 266), Wilson says of these CELTIC STONE IN INVERGOWRIE CHURCH. 59 ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 61 brooches : "The oval brooches are most fre- quently found in pairs, and may be presumed to have been worn on the front of the shoulders or breast, as shown in a curious piece of sculpture built into the church wall of Inver- gowrie. It represents, probably, priests, as two of them hold books in their hands. The two outer figures are adorned with large brooches on their shoulders ; while the central, and perhaps more important figure is without them, but wears instead a circular ornament on the lower front of his garment. Along with the pairs of oval brooches, a third is frequently found, flat and sometimes trefoiled." He thinks that the brooches belong to the Scoto-Norwegian period (870 A.D.-io64). Immediately over this stone is a bit of another stone with a horse and rider, above which is to be seen a part of the bodies of two or three figures. (For Illustration, see p. 63.) We may mention that there are several sculptured monuments in the Carse district. There is a stone at Benvie, a valuable monu- ment at St. Madoes, and fine slabs at Rossie Priory. Illustrations of the Invergowrie stones may be seen in the work issued by the Spalding Club, on the Sculptured Monuments of Scotland, 62 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN by Dr. John Stuart. (Cf. also Proceedings, Soc. Antiquaries, vol. ii. 443 ; vi. 394-95 ; xvi. 95 ; xvii. 211 ; Jervise and Warden.) The aisle of the church is the burial-place of the Clayhills of Invergowrie, the nave that of the Mylnes of Mylnefield. There are few stones of public note in the little churchyard which surrounds it. One of the more interest- ing is a stone to a son of the famous Bishop Horsley of St. Asaph. The monolith just outside the churchyard has no special value. It served as a bridge across the stream before the present one was built. A quaint prophecy, attributed to Thomas the Rhymer (circa 1280), may bring to a close our notes on this venerable ruin. A little way from the churchyard are "two unembellished, boulders, each about two tons weight," known as the Goors, the Gows, the Ewes or the Yowes of Gowrie. Of these, Thomas sings "When the Yowes o' Gowrie come to land, The Day o' Judgment's near at hand." At the beginning of the century the " Yowes " were within high- water mark. Writing in 1826, Robert Chambers says that the prophecy obtained "universal credit among the country SCULPTURED STONE IN INVERGOWRIE CHURCH. ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTOR Y 65 people. In consequence of the natural retreat of the waters from that shore of the firth, the stones are gradually approaching the land, and there is no doubt will ultimately be beyond flood-mark. It is the popular belief that they move an inch nearer to the shore every year. The expected fulfilment of the prophecy has deprived many an old woman of her sleep, and it is a common practice among the weavers and bonnet - makers of Dundee to walk out to Invergowrie on Sunday afternoons, simply to see what progress 'the Yowes' are making" (Popular Rhymes, p. 97). It is said that the building of the Dundee and Perth railway outside the Goors has discredited Thomas. But we must leave to his comment- ators to say whether they have quite "come to land," and also to interpret the line "The Day o' Judgment's near at hand" Not far off is the residence of Mr. James Henderson, which bears the historic name of The Gows. (2) Dron Chapel stands on a platform, above a dell in the high grounds of Longforgan, a mile and a half north of the village. The name Dron (Gaelic, Droigheann, Droigkionn] means 5 66 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Black-thorn. The chapel belonged to the Abbey of Coupar-Angus. That abbey was founded in 1164 by King Malcolm IV., grand- son of David I., who is known as "ane soir sanct for the crown." The Coupar monks belonged to the Cistercian Order, or, as they came to be called, the White Monks, their whole dress having been white except the cowl and scapular. The Cistercian Orderwas founded in 1090 by Robert de Molesme, at Citeaux, in Burgundy, hence their name Citercians or Cistercians. The most famous of the Cister- cians is the great St. Bernard, author 'of the hymn, " Jesu ! dulcis memoria" ("Jesus! the very thought of Thee "), and others ; but the order reckoned in its ranks able and earnest men, who gave it such an impulse that there were at one time between three and four thousand Cistercian houses. Coupar was one of these, and during four centuries, from its foundation in 1 164, it continued to be a famous centre of religious life in Scotland. The abbey had many benefactors, amongst the most pro- minent being the Hays of Errol. The peeps which the register of Cupar Abbey gives of its life, with its abbots and brothers, their friends and other religious men, ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 67 with its baker and brewer, its gardener and warreners, its land-steward and foresters, its bullock-herds and storemasters, its cellarer and bursar, with its rules as to food, " to the pro- portion for each brother for daily bread sixteen ounces of good wheat, sixteen ounces of oaten bread, two quarts of beer (ceruisie), and for the said strangers yearly one boll of wheat," if they tell us little directly of Dron, yet help us to understand the life it shared. Each brother got "in the year ^13, 6s. 8d. for flesh, fish, butter, salt, and other spices, and figs, soap (smigmate), and candles for the refectory, etc.. . . . and for clothing, 533. 4d. each friar annually." The chapel at Dron was built in 1164. It is now almost entirely in ruins. But the gables remain, in one of which, the west, there is a considerable window. A churchyard surrounded it, and there seems to have been, from the earliest times, an almost direct road from the chapel at Dron to the abbey at Coupar. There is a fine view from the platform towards Lochee, and the Tay at Dundee. The latter town was the port for Coupar Abbey. Once a year the principal tenantry were bound to send a couple of horse and four oxen to bring up to the abbey such things as coal, lime, timber, slates, and 68 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN perhaps a little of the Burgundian wine for which the Abbey of Citeaux was so famous. Dron, we may be sure, got its share from the passing caravans. About a mile to the south of Longforgan, and not far from the Tay, lie the grounds and orchard of Templehall. A little way from it there used to be seen the remains of a burying- ground. It is probable that there was a chapel beside it at one time. There is, so far as we know, no documentary evidence on the matter ; but in view of the fact that the Knight Templars had lands in so many parishes, it is not at all unlikely that Templehall is a memorial of their zeal. A stone, evidently a part of a tombstone, may be seen .in the grounds, bearing the date 1664. Another, built into a wall, has 1677 on it. About 1780, when trenches were being dug at the east end of Longforgan village, some large stones were found " lying in such an arrangement as gave the appearance of a large building, which is supposed to have been some religious establishment" (Old Stat. Ace., xix. 561). These are not now to be seen. Farther west, on the bank of Longforgan, some ecclesi- astical stones have also been turned up. Longforgan is associated \\ith the name of another saint besides Boniface St. Modwenna, or, as the name is sometimes given, Moninna, Monenna, Monyma, Monynne, Medana. The story of Modwenna, like that of Boniface, is wrapt in confusion. Some think that there was more than one Modwenna. Forbes, however, holds that there was but one, and looks on her as "a connecting link between the three great wonder-workers of Ireland, as receiving the monastic habit from St. Patrick, as ever con- tinuing the friend of St. Brigida, and as yielding up her spirit in the same year that the great Apostle of Hy entered into the world." Her name was Darerca, her cognomen Monynne. She was born in Ireland, in the region of Conaille, and had her chief abode at Killevy. At an early age she took a vow of chastity, and, according to the story, got the virgin habit from St. Patrick. Leaving Ireland, she laboured in England and Scotland. Con- chubranus says that she founded seven churches in Scotland. The first was at Chilnecase in Galluveic (Galloway); the second on the summit of the hill Dundevenel (Dundonald); the third on the hill of Dunbreten (Dumbarton) ; the fourth on the castle of Strivelin ;, the fifth 70 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN in Dun-eden, which in the English language is called Eden-burg ; the sixth on the hill of Dunpelder ; and the seventh at Lanfortin, near Aleethe, supposed to be Dundee. Hector Boyce (born at Dundee about 1465) is the first to give as a name Alectum. Modwenna had a special liking for Lanfortin, which is, of course, Longforgan. Here she is said to have sung " the Psalter immersed in water to the breast, and received the consolation of angels, once only interrupted by a sin of one of the sisters." The sin of the sister consisted of a trifling theft. The story is, that one day, when Modwenna was out on a pilgrimage with the sisters, they came to a river which, being shallow, they meant to ford. To their surprise, however, it rose in flood as they reached it, and fording was impossible. Alarmed at this, Modwenna sought to discover the sinful deed which she was sure must have caused this un- expected difficulty. One of the sisters con- fessed that she had stolen a handful of leeks. No sooner was it confessed and repented of, than the flood fell, and the pilgrims were able to cross the stream. From Longforgan, Modwenna went to Rome, journeying, there " with naked feet and hair ECCLESIASTICAL TRADITIONS AND HISTORY 71 shirt." On her return from Rome she founded a monastery at Burton-on-Trent, and then re- visited Longforgan, where she died, about one hundred and thirty years old. Conchubranus says : "Post haec vero exiit ad Aleethe, ubi modo est optima ecclesia, quam Longfortin aedeficavit, cum quodam fonte sanctissimo . . . et multum dilexit ilium locum in quo in finem vitae suae ut affirmant, Domino volente, emisit spiritum." ("After these things then she went to Aleethe, where there is a very fine church, which she built at Longfortin, with a most sacred spring, . . . and she loved that place much in which, at the close of her life, as they affirm, God willing it, she gave up her spirit.") Her sisters were sent for, and they stayed some days at Longforgan. The following epitaph, quoted by Ussher, gives her story shortly " Ortum Modwennae dat Hibernia, Scotia finem, Anglia dat tumulum, dat Deus alta poll. Prima dedit vitam, sed mortem terra secunda, Et terram terrae tertia terra dedit. Aufert Lanfortin quam terra Conallea profert ; Felix Burtonium virginis ossa tenet." " Ireland gives Modwenna birth, Scotland her end, England a grave, God the height of heaven. The first gave her life, but the second land death, The third land gave her a home of earth. Lanfortin carries off what the land of Conaille brings forth ; Happy Burton keeps the bones of the virgin." 72 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Ussher gives 660 as the date of her death in the Index Chronologicus to his British Antiquities. DCLX. " Monenna virgo Lan- fortini in Albania mortua est" There is a holy well dedicated to her in Kirkmaiden parish, Wigtownshire. Her relics are said to have been divided between the Scots, English, and Irish, the first portion of them being at Lanfortin. Cf. Skene, Celtic Scotland, ii. 37. The Aberdeen Breviary states that St. Palladius died " at Longforgund in the Mearnis." " Annorum plenus apud Longforgund in Mernis, in pace requiescit beata." This is, however, evidently an error on the part of the scribe, who wrote Longforgund instead of Fordoun, the scene of some of Palladius' labours, and the reputed place of his death. IV ^prices OF THS 73 "The rude forefathers of the hamlet." " It is for man to tame the chaos ; on every side whilst he lives to scatter the seeds of science and of song, that climate, corn, animals, men, may be milder, and the'germs of love and benefit may be multiplied." Emerson. 74 IV EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND SOME of the earliest notices of Longforgan connect themselves with the kings of Scotland. There was a royal palace in Dundee, and Alexander the First had another at Invergowrie, perhaps Hurley- Hawkin. During the twelfth century there were four royal manors in Gowry. These were Scone, Coupar, Stratherdel, and Longforgan. Skene is inclined to think that they were royal thanages. He says (Celtic Scotland, Hi. p. 275) : "In the reign of Mal- colm the Fourth, who confirms the foundation- charter of Alexander the First, we find mention of the four royal manors of Gouerin or Gowry pay- ing ' can ' to the king, and these were Scon or Scone, Cubert or Coupar-Angus, Forgrund and Longforgan, and Stratherdel ; and these appear to have been likewise royal thanages." But earlier still than Malcolm's day there 75 76 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN are interesting traces. Malcolm's grandfather was King David I., the "soirsanct." One of David's gifts to the monks of Scone was half of the skins and the fat of all the beasts killed for the king on his domains north of the Tay. The Soir Sanct had royal manors in nearly every shire, and amongst other things gifted to Scone was "the tenth of the can of his cheese brought in from his manors of Gowrie, Scone, Cupar, and Forgrund." The amount of cheese made shows that the dairy was then an object of care and a centre of activity. We have some information as to how the royal manors were wrought. It was by their own free tenants and their villeins. When travelling through his kingdom, the king was wont to visit his manors. He did this partly for the purpose of collecting rents, and partly for the purpose of receiving the produce. Whether King David visited Longforgan we cannot say. But it is not unlikely. He used, besides, to go through the land in the interests of justice, and where there was a palace, might be seen listening to the cases of his people. The king had under him two judges, one for the north, the other for the south. Then under these, there were inferior judges, "who borrowed EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND 77 their designations from the district in which they officiated, and were denominated the Judge of Gowry, the Judge of Buchan, the Judge of Strathern, the Judge of Perth " (Ty tier's History of Scotland, ii. 143). Reference has already been made to King Malcolm's connection with the place. One of the gifts of his successor, William the Lion, was of lands in Longforgan. William had a brother whom he created Earl of Huntingdon. To this David, Fordun says (ii. 276, Skene's translation), " the late King William/his brother, after he had been released, and had come back from England, had given the earldom of Huntingdon, to be held of him likewise the earldom of Garviach, the town of Dundee, the town of Inverbervie, and the lordship of Lanforgonde, together with many other lands " (Lindores, Inchmartin). One of Earl David's daughters was the mother of Robert the Bruce ; and John Baliol, to whose coronation at Scone gentlemen from Gowry went, was his great-grandson. When King Edward I. of England went from Dundee to Baledgarno in 1296, and again when he marched from Perth to Dundee in 1303, he must have passed through the royal manor of 78 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Longforgan. One of the Bruce's acts, not long after, was to take the possession of an English baron named Sir Edmund de Hastings and gift it to the family of Gray. John de Hastings was, it will be remembered, one of those who put in a claim to King Edward along with Bruce and Baliol for a part of the kingdom of Scotland in 1291-92. There are three interesting charters granted by Bruce of lands in Longforgan. These charters are now in possession of the Earl of Strathmore at Glamis Castle. They are given at length in Appendix, Part III., Four- teenth Report of the Historical Manuscripts Commission. Sir William Eraser, who reports upon them, says (p. 1 74) : " The earliest charter, No. i, in the first section, is granted by Robert Bruce, Earl of Carrick and Lord of Annandale, in favour of Alexander de Keith, of the lands of Longforgan. The charter is undated, but was granted between the years 1295 and 1304. . . . In the year 1315, when Bruce was king, he granted another charter of part of the mill of Longforgan, in favour of Alexander Keith, who is therein named as his ' beloved and faithful.' " This charter, No. 3, is interesting as show- ing that at the date of it, 1315, the year after EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND 79 Bannockburn, the resignation of the subjects granted to Keith was made by John Glastreth, the former owner, at Tarbat, near Louchfyne, before many magnates. The king was there on a visit to his Highland home, in his visits to which, we are informed by Barbour, that he followed the example of King Magnus Barefoot of Norway, in being drawn across the isthmus of Tarbert in his galleys. " A third charter was granted by King Robert Bruce to the same Alexander Keith, again described as ' his beloved and faithful,' No. 4. From that charter it appears that Alexander Keith had no heirs (male) of his body, as the lands were to pass to his daughter Agnes, and William Avenell, styled the king's cousin, and the heirs to be lawfully begotten between them, and failing such heirs, the lands to return to the king. The charter, No. 4, commemorates the presence of the king at Berwick-on-Tweed, which seems to refer to the Parliament or Council held there in November 1324. The fact that Alexander Keith was there in attend- ance upon the king on important occasions, seems to suggest that he belonged to the royal household. But Keith has not been identified as a member of the ' mighty men of lineage,' 8o THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN as Wyntoun calls them, of that name, who long held the hereditary office of Marischal of Scot- land. In the time of Queen Mary, William, the fourth Earl Marischal, possessed landed property extending to 270,000 merks of yearly rent. These lay in so many counties that he could travel from Berwick to the northern extremity of Scotland, eating every meal and sleeping every night upon his own estates." The year after Bannockburn was thus a memorable one in Longforgan. Keith took the place of Glastreth. It also witnessed the real incoming of the first of the Grays, a family that was destined to play a great part in the life of the district, as well as in the life of the State. There are several notices in the Register of the Great Seal of grants of land in Longforgan. David II. made a grant in the thirty-eighth year of his reign, " dilecto et fideli nostro Ade Pingle to tarn terram de Langforgund," etc. Roger Pyngill was a man of note in Bruce's reign, and received certain lands in Scotland, " pro homagio et servicio suo " for himself and heirs. David II. confirmed several grants made by Keith the Marischal of Scotland to Adam Pyngill, and one of his own gifts was of land EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND 81 in Longforgan. King Robert II. made a grant to Patrick Gray, another to Alanus de Erskyne, of lands in the barony of Longforgan. One charter of this king has considerable interest. It is a grant to John Lyonn, knight, and besides recalling to us that Randolph of Dundee, knight, once held Kingoodie, and that Gilbert of Monorgan is an ancient name, gives a curious glimpse of Adam Pyngill. In 1450, James II. confirmed a charter of Patrick, Lord of Glammis, and of the barony of Longforgan, by which he conceded to Thomas Gray " 10 libratas terrarum nuncu- patarum Uviryardis de Mounorgunde, in dicta baronia de Langfargunde." Sixteen years later, James III. confirmed a charter of Lord Gray, by which he sold and alienated to John Stewart of Fertirkil "terras de Killibroath et Disert, in comitatu Atholie, vie. Perth, baronie de Langforgound annexas." In a charter issued in favour of Lord Gray, the year before, Longforgan is called Forgounde. James IV. granted still further favours to his counsellor Lord Gray in 1489, " terras de Mylhil, cum molendino ejusdem, et terras de Birflat, infra baroniam de Forgund, vie. Perth." Six years later, in 1495, the same monarch 6 82 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN granted to Robert Lile, son of Lord Lile, amongst other things, " terras de le Mylhil et Byreflat cum molendino earundem, in baronia de Forgund, vie. Perth." In some respects the most interesting notice of the lands of Longforgan occurs in a charter dated 7th January 1508-9, and granted by James IV. to Lord Gray, Justiciary of Scotland. It concedes to him, " terras et baroniam de Langforgund, cum dependentiis, tenentibus et tenandriis, viz. terras de Langforgund, Huntlie cum turre et fortalicio, Bulyeoun, Gedpik, Balbunnok, Kingaidy, Ebrukis, Thrissile- holme, Raschycruke, Drone, Knap, Laurestoun, Litiltoun, 12 bovatas terrarum in villa de Inchmartin, terras de Montskeide, Mon- tramyche, alias Disart, et Killebroiche, vie. Perth" ("the lands and barony of Langforgund, with the dependencies, tenants, and tenandries, viz. the lands of Langfor- gund, Huntlie, with the tower and fortalice, Bulyeoun, Gedpik, Balbunnok, Kingaidy, Ebrukis, Thrissleholme, Raschycruke, Drone, Knap, Laurestoun, Litiltoun, 12 bovates of lands in the town of Inchmartin, the lands of Montskeide, Montramyche, alias. Disart, and Killebroiche, in the county of Perth"). EARLY NOTICES OF THE LAND 83 The charter goes on to say that these lands had formerly been held by Andrew Gray from the king, and that in token of his special favour he incorporated them anew into one free barony of Longforgan. It will be noticed how many of the most familiar names in the parish occur in the charter Huntly, Bullion, Kingoodie, Dron, etc. In 1524, James V. granted a charter confirm- ing to the fourth Lord Gray and his heirs the lands and baronies of Langforgund, Fowlis, and Dundee, with the castles of Huntly and Bruchty Craig, etc. This short sketch may help to remind us of the men who formerly owned and moved in Longforgan. The list includes John Glastreth, Sir Edmund de Hastings, Sir Andrew Gray, Alexander de Keith, Adam Pyngill, Gilbert de Monorgound, Robert Lile, John Lyon, etc., some of them men who stood in the foremost ranks of their country's service. It is all but impossible for us, in looking abroad on the smiling Carse, to realise the struggles through which we have come to the peace, and the effort through which we have come to the plenty, that prevail. But, every now and then, we get glimpses, as we look THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN back, of days of stern warfare and dire want. Alexander I. is said to have built Baledgarno Castle to suppress thieves. Fordun mentions also how, in 1336, through the ceaseless maraud- ing of both sides Scotch and English the whole land of Gowrie, as well as Angus and Mearns, was all but reduced to a hopeless wilderness and pressing want. That there were perils from beasts and robbers in the Carse, the Cupar Register shows. If it is sometimes a bitter cry that comes to us from these times, let us not forget how much we owe to the chivalrous men who, like Gray and Randolph and Keith, fought our battles, and to the unnamed heroes in the Church and in humble life, who fought the soil and tilled what they conquered, and so laid the founda- tion of a prosperity and a plenty for those who should enter into their labours. V me HU^DHIL OF 1385 " Most righteous judge ! a sentence. Come, prepare." Shakespeare, 86 V AT THE HUNDHIL OF LANGFOR- GRUND IN 1385 1385 carries us back a long way. But one of the most curious glimpses which we have of early Longforgan belongs to this year. In Celtic times, as is known, the people gathered in council and for justice at what was called the Moothill. The Moothill was a mound which lent itself naturally to the purposes already named. Of a Moothill in Longforgan in those distant times, we know nothing. But, curiously enough, records exist of meetings at the Moothill, or, as it is described in the docu- ments themselves, the " hund hil of Langfor- grund," in 1385. These records are written on a " long narrow roll of parchment of separate pieces stitched together," and are preserved among the papers of Sir Patrick Keith Murray of Ochtertyre and Fowlis Easter. They 87 88 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN contain an account of the proceedings of five Barony Courts held by Sir Patrick Gray, who, in addition to Fowlis, possessed the barony of Longforgan. These records are of the highest value. In the first place, they are almost the only specimen of the proceedings of a Scotch Barony Court in the fourteenth century known to exist. Further, they are marked by great detail. And they are also interesting as specimens of the vernacular in the Carse of Gowrie at the close of the fourteenth century, part of the proceedings being in Scotch. The courts described sat in four successive months. The first was held on the i6th of January 1385; the second on the 3rd of February ; the third on the 25th of February ; the fourth on the 8th of March ; the last on the 2ist of April. It is curious to read to- day the names of the officers who took part in these courts. It must not be thought that those meetings were wanting in the elements that make them imposing. Sir Patrick Gray, "lorde of the chefe barony of Longforgonde," was surrounded in his court by the same figures that appeared in the court of the king. There were " mony nobillis " and "mony gude men." Robert Louranson, the dempster of the AT THE HUNDHIL OF LANGFORGRUND 89 King's Court, was dempster of the Barony Court. Then we read of the sergand, Robyn Jopson. It may be of interest to give a short account of the proceedings : At the first meeting, held on Tuesday the i6th of January 1385, after the court had been fenced and Robyn Jopson's authority as serjeant admitted, Robyn was asked if he had executed the summons on the tenants and parceners of Lytylton and Lowranston of Achlyrcoman, calling them to appear. Robyn replied that he had, and read his citation, which was as follows : "I, Robyn Jopson, sergand, lauch- fully made and ordanyt of the chef part of the barony of Langforgund throu Sir Patrick Gray, lord of that ilk chef part of that ilk barony in the sheradom of Perth, somonde at the chef plaz of the teneindri of Lytilton and Lowranstone of Ochtyrcomane within the Lytilton, Sir Thomas the Hay, of Lowchqwor- wart, and Dam Jonat, his spouse, throu reson of his spouse, Sir William of Cunygham, and Dam Margaret, his spouse, Elezabeth of Maxwel, Alexandir of Kocborne, and Katerin, his spouse, for reson of his spouse, and Dugal Me Duel, and Eufam his spouse, for resone of his spouse, the Wedynysday, the xvi. day 90 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN of the moneth of November, that thai apere lauchfolly at the Hundhil in Langforgrond, in the sheradom of Perth, to Sir Patrick Gray, lord of the chef part of Langforgonde and orlard of the landys of Lytilton and Louranz- stone of Ouchtircomon, thys tewysday that nw ys the xvi. day of this moneth of Jenuer, to schaw how and for qwat caus, throw qwat chartir or ewydens thai halde or clemys to hald the landys or tenandris of Lytiltone and Low- ranzstone of Achtyrcoman of hym, and of his chef parts of the Barony of Langforgond within the sheradom of Perth, and to do this day efter my sumonz for yhour haldying as the law and ordyr of law askys in yt selfe, yat I haf mad this somondys in this maner as I hafe re- cordyt laufully, lo here my witnez Robyn Jonson of Balligyrnach and Richard of Pent- land, William Scot and Andrew Yhong." None of the parties cited appeared at the Hundhil on the i6th of January. So, the Court decreed, through its dempster, that the Serjeant should levy a distraint of the value of six cows from each of them, and should cite them further to appear at the Hundhil on the 3rd of February. Again the parties cited did not come, and a fresh decree was made. AT THE HUNDHIL OF LANGFORGRUND 91 This took place a third time. At the fourth court, Sir Thomas Hay appeared at the Hundhil. He pled that he ought not to be fined for his earlier non-appearance. To this, Sir Patrick agreed. Hay was next asked what title he had to the land in dispute. Sir Thomas said he had no charter, but asked fifteen days' delay before judgment was given. This was granted. The Court in the meantime agreed to the following judgment : " Than the Curt fullely awisit with the consale of mony gude men thair beand, decretyt that the lande of Lytilton and Lowrandston in Ouchtercomane aucht to dwell yn to Sir Patrick's Grayis handis, to the tyme that it was lauchfully recouerit fra the forsayde Sir Patrick othir with trety or with proces of lauch, the dome of qwhilk decrete the forsayde Sir Patrick delay t graci- ously deferryt tyl his lauchfulle day next eftir pas, to prowe gif the forsayde personaris walde seke hym othir with tretys grace or lauch, and assignet thareto, tewisday the xxi. day of Auryll next for to caus his dome to precede and to be giffyn gif thai come noucht, and that he made manyfest in playne Curt." The last court on this matter was held at the Hundhil on the 2ist of April. There, 92 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN "throw Sir Patrick Gray, lorde of the chefe barony of Langforgonde, mony nobillis thare beande, with consale of tha nobillis, and of his curt, he wele awisit that the forsayde per- sonaris contenyt in his prosces souch hym nother with grace, lufe, na with lauch, to delay his dome na his proces, with consale of the forsayde curt and noblis that thare was, throw the mouth of Robert Louranson than demstare of oure lord the kingis curt, and of his, it was giffyn for dome that the Lytilton, and Lowrand- ston of Ouchtercomane suld dwell in the handis of the forsayde Sir Patrick and his ayeris, qu'hill the tyme that all the forsaydis personaris and all thaire namys nemmyt sulde recouir the landys othir be grace trety or prosces of law, and this endyt the proces." Cf. Report by Dr. John Stuart on the MSS. of Sir Patrick Keith Murray, Bart, of Ochtertyre, Historical Manuscripts, Third Report, p. 410. Cf. also Introduction, p. 24. VI 93 " See, 'mid yon trees, a battlemented pile That tops the rock, o'erlooking many a mile Of level carse. Fair Emma Gordon and her bridal train First graced its halls. Fair Emma ! Huntly's child ; No sweeter spring-born blossom ever smiled Than she, all blushing, on that happy day, The wedded love of brave young Andrew Gray, Wide Cowrie's pride, and Castle Huntly's lord, And she the guerdon of his patriot sword At least so runs the tale. " The Tay" by David Millar, canto v. 94 VI CASTLE HUNTLY IN point of interest Castle Huntly stands pre- eminent among the homes of Longforgan. It is a noble pile of enormous strength. Built of stone from the quarries at Kingoodie, it has stood, almost unharmed, the blasts of over four hundred years. The natural strength of the castle is considerable, standing, as it does, on the top of a precipitous and " verie stubborne rock," hardly accessible except on one side. But it does not seem to have been looked upon as a military stronghold. Writing in his Book of Record, Earl Patrick of Strathmore says : " My grandfather made this purchase from the Lord Gray, at which time, save that the land was speciall good, it was a place of no considera- tione, fit for nothing else but as a place of refuge in the time of trouble, wherein a man might make himself a prisoner, and in the 95 96 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN meantime might therein be protected from a flying partie, but was never of any strenth, or to have been accounted a stronghold to endure a siege, or a place capable to hold so many as with necessarie provisions could hold out long, or by sallies to doe much preiudice to an enimie." Some idea of its internal strength may be got from the fact that its walls are in some places ten feet thick. Its tower rises to a height of about one hundred and thirty feet, and, altogether, it is a fine specimen of an old baronial home. The castle is said to have been built in 1452, under a special licence granted by James II. to Andrew the second Lord Gray, giving him leave to build a castle upon the barony of Fowlis or Longforgan. But the first definite mention of the tower and fortalice of Huntly occurs in a charter of 1508-9. It is likely that in still earlier times a castle or fort of some kind stood on the rock. The tradition is that it was once surrounded with water, and that the very stones with which the present castle was built were brought by water from Kingoodie. It is impossible to say in what way the castle came to be called Castle Huntly. The tradition lingers still that Andrew Gray, the founder of CASTLE HUNTLY. 97 CASTLE HUNTLY 99 the castle, wedded a daughter of Lord Huntly, and called his home after his bride. The unfortunate thing for this pretty story is that no such marriage took place, although later there was an alliance between a Gray and a Huntly. The rock or the land may have borne the name of Huntly from an earlier time, or, as the Grays came from Northumberland to Perth- shire in the days of Bruce, it may have been taken, as has been suggested, from the property of that name in Berwickshire. Castle Huntly has been in the hands of three ancient families. Built originally by the second Lord Gray, it passed early in the seventeenth century into the hands of the family of Lyon. During this time it ceased to be known as Castle Huntly, being called after Lord Glamis " Castle Lyon " ; but towards the close of last century, when it passed into the hands of the second Mr. Paterson, it was renamed by him, in honour of his wife, a daughter of Lord Gray, Castle Huntly. It lies beyond our purpose to describe the castle, or to trace at length the fortunes of the families who have held it. Admirable sketches, and easily accessible, may be found in R. Fittis' Book of Perthshire Memorabilia, and A. H. Millar's Historical Castles and Mansions of TOO THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN Scotland. Cf. " Perthshire." But a few facts may be given. It is in 1308 that the Grays first appear in the manor of Longforgan. Sir Andrew Gray was the first of the line to be closely connected with the place. He was one of the valiant band which followed Bruce. In 1312, when Edinburgh Castle was entered by surprise, Sir Andrew Gray was the second man to put his foot on the walls, and in return for his splendid services Bruce gave him a number of estates, including the barony of Longforgan. Towards the close of that century, one of the Grays of Broxmouth married the daughter of Sir Roger de Mortimer, heiress of Fowlis. Gray was also possessor of the barony of Long- forgan, which his father had acquired from the heiress of Roger de Kyd and Marion Oliphant ; but from this time till 1452, when Castle Huntly is said to have been built by the second Lord Gray, the interests of the family belong chiefly to Fowlis. Castle Huntly remained in the possession of the Lords Gray till 1615, when it passed from their hands. The Lords of Castle Huntly were all im- portant men. The third Lord Gray led a wing of the rebel army at Sauchieburn, and is credited with having been one of the three horsemen who CASTLE HUNTLY 101 killed James III. after the battle. This led to his promotion. He was made High Sheriff of Forfar, Lord of the Privy Council, Justice- General benorth the Forth, Justiciar of Scotland, and received amongst others the lands and baronies of Fowlis, Longforgan, Huntly, etc. The fourth Lord Gray died at Castle Huntly in 1541. One of his daughters married Monorgan of that ilk. The fifth Lord was a prominent figure in the days of Beaton, and supported the Reformation. After the battle of Pinkie he was accused of surrendering Broughty Castle to the English, and the Regent Arran determined to attack Castle Huntly. The sixth Lord was a less distinguished man. But his son may fairly be described as one of the extraordinary characters in Scottish history, at once one of the cleverest and one of the most unprincipled of intriguers. The Duke of Guise, the captive Queen of Scotland, Elizabeth, King James, Arran these were some of the parties with whom he played his game. Some of his letters exist, dated from Castle Huntly, full of curious glimpses of his views. He was an able man, and gave King James some admirable counsel. Lord Gray died in 1612. Shortly after his accession, the new Lord 102 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN disposed of Castle Huntly to Lord Glammis, the first Earl of Kinghorne, for 40,000 merks. The earl died in 1615. Two years later, the second Earl was " retoured as heir to his father, Earl Patrick, in the lands called the Mains of Huntly, with the castle and fortalice of Huntly, which formerly belonged to Andrew, Lord Gray ; and also in that part of the lands of Longforgan, called Easter and Wester Colts, with the moor adjoining, all in the barony of Longforgan, and formerly belonging to the said Andrew, Lord Gray ; but the lands of Goatpick, a quarter of the lands of Cattermillie or Bullion, the third part of the lands of Balbunnoch or Balbonnie, and Nether Carse, with the lands of Kingoodie or Mylnfield, all parcels of the barony of Longforgan, were specially excluded from this re" tour." The second Earl was a man of some note in his day. He took the Covenanting side, and fought at the battle of the Bridge of Dee. An old Pasquil on that battle refers to him " God bliss our Covenanters in Fyffe and Lothean, In Angus and the Mearnis, quho did us first begin With musket and with carabin, with money speare and shield, To take the toune of Aberdeen, and make our Marques yield. God bliss Montrois our General, The stout Earl of Kinghorne, That we may long Hue and rejoyce That ever they were borne. CASTLE HUNTLY 103 The man that hes ane eiuell wyffe, He prayes God to amend her, That he may Hue a quyat lyffe, And dye a Covenanter." " Kingorne" is also praised by Lithgow as a peer "by true Religion crownd, And Honour to" as one who made profession, "Of Christ's Reformed Church by cleare confession." The earl did a good deal for Castle Huntly, and intended it to be the summer residence of the family. His son tells us of him: "My father, as he had indeed reason soe to doe, did in the year of God 1637 finish the staircase which he had begun some years before, and he put on an inteer new roofe upon the Castle and Jamm which before had ane old scurvie battle- ment, and was vaulted in the top and flagged over. He did also build that which is the present kitchen, which had only a chimney with a timber brace carried up, with patent straw and clay, and full of hazard for taking of fire, as, indeed, upon many occasions it did, but I was obleidged to make a thorrow reformatione thereof: he built also the Brew-house and Woman-house which now is, and the greatest Barne which stands on the north-west corner of the stack-yard, without so much as a closs or court, so that the first landing or lighting was 104 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN att the verie entrie gate." He died at St. Andrews of smallpox in 1646. The next Earl, who became the first Earl of Strathmore in 1677, is perhaps the most interesting of the lords of Castle Huntly. Under his guidance it became a changed place, and he was identified with the interests of Longforgan as few have been. It was during his time, in 1672, that King Charles II. erected the barony of Castle Huntly into a lordship, to be called the Lordship of Lyon, and it is usually supposed that the castle came to be known as Castle Lyon at this point. But of Earl Patrick again. The second Earl of Strathmore was a man of considerable power. The third fell at Sheriff- muir, fighting for the Chevalier. " Poor Strathmore was shott thro' the heart after he askt quarters." Several songs preserve his name. His successor entertained the Chevalier at Castle Lyon. He met a tragic fate, being killed in the streets of Forfar in a drunken fray. Scarcely less sorrowful is the tale of the widowed countess. She stayed in Castle Lyon, which was the jointure-house of the countesses, for seventeen years, and then entered into what proved a most unhappy marriage with a young CASTLE HUNTLY 105 man, George Forbes, one of her servants. The marriage took place at Castle Huntly in 1745. The last of the Strathmores to hold Castle Lyon was John, the seventh Earl. He married the wealthiest heiress in England, Miss Mary Eleanor Bowes of Streatlam, whose surname he was permitted by Parliament to assume Bowes- Lyon. He died in 1776. Instead of staying in Castle Lyon, his widow sold it the following year. Mr. George Paterson was the purchaser, and the price ,40,000. The new laird did not belong to the district. Born in 1734, he had spent the earlier part of his life in India. Returning to Scotland in 1776 with a large fortune, he married towards the close of that year a daughter of Lord Gray. Just at this time Castle Lyon came into the market. Mr. Paterson bought it, and in his bride the castle welcomed a descendant of Lord Gray who built it. In her honour he renamed it Castle Huntly. Mr. Paterson was a great enthusiast, and besides doing much to improve Castle Huntly, inaugurated many changes, and was the first to introduce the newer implements and methods of agriculture to the district. A record of these may be found in the Old Statistical Account. He died 106 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN in 1817, and was succeeded by his son, Colonel Paterson. The colonel died in 1846, and was succeeded by his only son George. Though trained for the Bar, he took a keen interest in the estate, and became an authority on the subject of Fiars. He died in 1867. The present proprietor is a son of Mr. Paterson. Mrs. Armitstead is tenant. A LAY OF CASTLE HUNTLY. In canto v. of The Tay, the tale of Emma Gordon is told with considerable spirit. " Fair Emma Gordon wadna gie Her hand to Andrew Gray, Nor leave the Bogie's flowery braes For a' the sweets o' Tay. She wadna leave the Bogie banks For a' the lords she saw, An' far less wad a Gowrie knicht Entice her steps awa'. Yet a' her sighs, her maidens said, Were for Sir Andrew Gray, An' a' her fears and prayers were his By night but an' by day." Emma Gordon's mother was a haughty dame. "An' tho 1 her father weel could prize The worth o' Andrew's sword, He cou'dna brook that Huntly's bairn Sud wed less than a lord. CASTLE HUNTLY 107 A braver knicht than Andrew Gray Ne'er belted on a sword A truer knicht than Andrew Gray Ne'er waited on his lord. An' Emma Gordon brawly knew Nae knicht cou'd love sae weel : To her, his eye the sweetest shone Tho' 'neath a casque o' steel. Was ne'er than Emma Gordon's seen A form sae sweet an' fair, Nae bird was blyther in the glen, Nor rose bloom'd richer there ! " At this point the Douglas raises his standard against King James. " Fickle Crawford's powerfu' Earl" goes with the rebels. The king's hope is largely in Huntly. " Our gude king trusts to Huntly's sword, An' brooks nae lang delay." One by one the chieftains rally to Huntly, who praises them. Of Gray he says " ' An' doughty Gray, come as it may, Will be baith staunch an' true, But, Emma Gordon, wha, the day, May wear the spurs for you?' Fair Emma's cheeks grew like the rose, Now like the lily hue ' He fechts for me, my father dear, Wha fechts the best for you ! But if I choose a valiant knicht, As choose fu' weel I may, I'll bind my favour round the crest O' young Sir Andrew Gray.' io8 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN The Earl frowned. Wi' tremblin' hand, But an' a pearly tear, She's tied around his glancin' crest A ringlet o' her hair ! 'Now by St. Bridget's sacred shrine, And by the haly rude, The hand that wins my ladye's gift Sal win my red heart's blude ! ' " A fight shortly ensues between Crawford's warriors and Huntly's. " But aye the loudest in the shout, The foremost in the fray, Was Emma Gordon's trusty knight, The brave Sir Andrew Gray." The victory falls to Huntly. Then comes the rewarding of the victors. Huntly gets the "braes o' Badenoch and a' Balquhidder too." " ' But as for Gray, that wilfu' wight, We can nae mercy shaw : We'll bind him firm this very nicht As strait as bands can draw ; An' big a keep on Cowrie braes Whaur he his weird may dree, An' bonny Emma Gordon sal His gentle jailor be !' Now gowden peace, wi' kindly ray, Cheers ilka Scottish glen, An' fears nae mair the Douglas name Wi' a' his riever men ; An' Castle Huntly shaws its toures High ower the Tay's blue tide, Whaur bonny Emma Gordon wons Lord Andrew's ladye bride ! " VII 109 " I doe admyre him, for his gifts most rare, Which few can paralell, nor yet compare," no VII A LONGFORGAN LAIRD IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY ONE day, early in June 1660, a tiny barque might have been seen entering the port of Dundee. It had come from St. Andrews. Its freight was humble. Part of it was the bed of a student of the University, not yet out of his teens, who had just gone for the first time, a day or two before, to his ancestral home at Castle Lyon. Things, there, were in a sad plight. There was not " so much as on bed to ly doune in," and the young laird, the third Earl of Kinghorne, had to borrow one from the minister of Longforgan till his own should come from St. Andrews. It is difficult for us, looking at the appoint- ments of the castle to-day, to conceive the cheerless lot of the laird. The castle was two hundred years old. A good deal had been in ii2 THE PARISH OF LONGFORGAN done for it, but it was a bleak house for the young laird who entered it on the 3o rovo OO*O fOvO O vO ^O to -H iy> Tj"O ro O o-i *O f! O r*> O O * OO o o OO - o 1 o tx, ro HH i c^ Q i i o O i"** OOOOOOOO OO NO * N O O wQ N t>. "5 3 ui QJ tJO QJ o> V ,0 ^ ri.l.l t (-1 -* ^H C H S^ g -SgvSx^ -S 73 "a 1- a 3 a - -^ 'I s** i ' 53 -' > P, S-^-5 . . &. C/3 < iu ~ 1 .rt ._ < T3 t 'O G-K& ^^ -^S^S^SuB 1K1S .illliil" chtoune, seven hundreth thrittie lands of Drone, two hundreth f es of Drone, thirteene punds, si: the lands in the Parish, fourte< ^auristone, two hundreth punds a Seven thousand two hundret 11|I S -| i|!|^ = = iflll-M-siU^l |S(S||lM||ll" iJuti^yii'iH^ c - - g ^ - vr ^ H ..c g - ., t r .r >< ws -?.." * u L. S S 5 ^12 g'o'n S . rt j-> 3 i.9 5 & fe ^ l!^' ennies . ,auristone, for ] S | en SI'S 11*8 ^M^S ^'^ g^'o'S SO^^^l 1 c|'S c ^'H^'2 s c|.o v 'H- >2 'a'S-"2 C .52 'c3 ^ '3 'rt J3 -S C Jf'3 S O '3 rt jC u>j Sj ^.HJH^ M W 2 ^ o O JVj W o > S? 2 ^ Q 1^1 C'S'u - a S Tx O n _c yi -*^ S3O : o o -2 ~ .2 c &&* B*S- c'^s^'&'^ss^S*- 1 "C*^ 5 " "3 Scc^^'o is. 2d. Sabbath Schools. "There are also (New Stat. Ace., x. 420, 1838) three Sabbath schools, which have been very serviceable in diffusing among the youth an acquaintance with the Holy Scriptures, and of which the good effects would be still more apparent were the attendance upon them less fluctuating than it frequently is." There are now five schools, well equipped with libraries, etc. At the Disruption a Sabbath school was started in Longforgan village at the suggestion of Mr. Walker. It was headed by John Dickson, Alexander Moncur, and Henry Prain. Lieutenant-Colonel Davidson, who came as a tenant to Castle Huntly in 1851, took a lively interest in its progress during the time he was in the parish. One of the 302 APPENDIX visitors at the castle when the school was being entertained was Dr. Islay Burns of Dundee. The school had its ups and downs. At one time a determined effort was made by the laird to stamp it out, but it lived through the storm. It is to the honour of the then laird, that he afterwards frankly acknowledged his mistake. Teacher's Salary. Answers to Queries made to Schoolmasters in conse- quence of an Application to Parliament in 1825 for an Augmentation of Salary. The answers were returned to Sheriff-Deputes. Query i. What were the salary and emoluments of the schoolmaster at the earliest period at which they can be correctly stated, and the branches of education taught at the same period? Ans. i. Before the year 1697, the salary to the school- master was paid by a certain tax on each plough (how much is not known), and by a tax on each house that had no land of 3^ yearly. The Kirk-Session paid for a house, school, and garden to the schoolmaster. The school fees in 1668 were for reading, 6d. per quarter; for writing, lod. per do. ; for arithmetic or Latin, is. i Jd. per do. The school fees appear to have continued the same until 1758. There is a want of records from 1758 to 1772; but in that latter year, reading was raised to is. per quarter; reading and writing to is. 6d. per do. ; arithmetic to 23. per do. ; Latin, 2S. 6d. per do. In 1697 the heritors fixed the salary at ^7, 55. yearly, which continued till 1788, when they volun- tarily subscribed a salary of 20 yearly. The average number of scholars might then be about 80, as there were no private schools in the parish, which would make the schoolmaster's emoluments from 1697 to 1772 to be about yearly, exclusive of house and garden. APPENDIX 303 Query 2. What were the salary and emoluments of the schoolmaster between 1780 and 1803, and the branches of education taught at the same period ? Ans. 2. The salary, as above, was jj, 53. until 1788, and the fees as fixed in 1772, which will make the emoluments of the schoolmaster to amount to 26 yearly from 1780 to 1788. From 1788 to 1803 the salary was 20, and the fees were raised to is. 6d. per quarter for reading, 2s. per do. for writing, 23. 6d. for arithmetic, and 35. for Latin, which will make the emoluments to be about 40 yearly for that period. The average of the schoolmaster's emoluments from 1780 to 1803 (23 yrs.) will thus amount to about 35^5- The branches of education taught were reading, writing, arithmetic, Latin, and the practical mathematics. No private schools were in the parish for the greatest part of this period. Query 3. What were his salary and emoluments between 1803 and 1824, specifying salary, school fees, other sources of emoluments, size of his house ? Ans. 3. The salary was the maximum (22, 45. 5^d.). The school fees were 23. per quarter for reading; 25. 6d. per do. for reading and writing; 33. per do. for reading, writing, and arithmetic ; 55. per do. for Latin ; 43. per do. for practical mathematics. The house is large, consisting of six rooms besides the teaching room. The annual average of permanent income of the schoolmaster (after deducting the poor scholars, who might be about of the whole number) was about ^37, ios., exclusive of house and garden. During this whole period there were two private schools in the parish, which lessened the number of scholars at the Parochial School. See the note at the end. Query 4. What were these for the year ending in 1825? Ans. 4. The salary and school fees are the same as in the preceding Answer to Question 3 ; but the number of 304 APPENDIX scholars being a little below the former average, taken in that Answer, therefore the income of the schoolmaster for the year 1825 is ^36, 53., exclusive of house and garden. Note. The year is understood in this Answer and in all the others to be accounted from the end of the harvest vacation of one year to the beginning of the harvest vacation in the next year. See note at the end of the Queries for other sources of emoluments. Query 5. State whether there be at present one or more schoolmasters established on the legal provision ; if two, whether there be two schoolmasters' dwelling-houses, their size, the proportion of salary allotted to each, and the amount of school fees received by each. Ans. 5. There is only one schoolmaster established on the legal provision. Query 6. What is the present rate of school fees ? Ans. 6. The present fees for teaching at the Parochial School are 23. per quarter for reading ; as. 6d. per do. for reading and writing ; 33. per do. for reading, writing, and arithmetic ; 53. per do. for Latin ; 45. per do. for practical mathematics, in their various branches; ^i, is. for a full system of book-keeping ; 75. 6d. per do. for geography and the use of the globes. Query 7. What is the average number of scholars who attend one or both schools annually ? Ans. 7. The average number of scholars who attend the Parochial School annually is about 60 ; but there are only three quarters in the year to be accounted for at that average, as one quarter is lost entirely by the harvest and other country work. Query 8. What are the branches of education which the present schoolmaster is qualified to teach, and the branches actually taught ? Ans. 8. The schoolmaster is qualified to teach English, grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, and APPENDIX 305 the mathematics in their various branches, both in theory and practice. All these branches are actually taught. Query g. State whether there be at present any and what other schools in the parish ; if there be, when established, by whom maintained, whether Dissenters or others, the emoluments of the schoolmasters, the rate of school fees, branches of education taught, and by what numbers of children attended ? Ans. 9. There are two other schools in the parish. One of them, in the village of Kingoodie, was established about the year 1800. It is maintained by Thomas Mylne, Esquire of Mylnefield, who gives the schoolmaster a free house and garden. The present schoolmaster is a member of the Church of Scotland. The emoluments of the schoolmaster are about 20 annually, exclusive of house and garden. The school fees are 25. per quarter for reading; 25. 6d. per do. for writing ; 35. per do. for arithmetic. Reading, writing, and arithmetic are taught in this school. The average number of scholars for three quarters in the year is 60. The other private school is in the town of Longforgan. It is maintained by George Paterson, Esquire of Castle Huntly, who gives a free house to teach in. The present schoolmaster is a member of the Church of Scotland. The emoluments of the schoolmaster are about ^10, IDS. annually. The school fees are 25. per quarter for reading, 2s. 4d. per do. for writing, and 25. 6d. per do. for arith- metic. Reading, writing, and arithmetic are taught in this school. It was established about the year 1799. The average number of scholars for three quarters in the year is 30. Query 10. What is the greatest distance at which children go daily to school ? Ans. 10. The greatest distance that any of the scholars have to travel to the school is about two miles. Query n. State whether there be any part of a parish so distant from a school as to prevent attendance ; if there 20 306 APPENDIX be, what is the distance, and what is the population of such part of the parish ? Ans. ii. The northmost part of the parish is about six miles from the Parochial School ; but it is not above two miles from the schools of the neighbouring parishes of Abernyte, Kettins, and Lundie, where the inhabitants send their children. There is, therefore, no part of this parish but the inhabitants may send their children to some school. The population of that part of the parish which cannot send their children to the Parish School, owing to the great distance, is about one-eighth of the whole population, which in 1821 was 1544. Query 12. What proportion does the population of any towns or villages in the parish bear to the population of the whole parish ? Ans. 12. The population of the town of Longforgan is about one-third ; and the population of the village of Kingoodie about one-eighth of the whole population of the parish according to the census in 1821, by which the popula- tion of the whole parish was found to be 1544. Note referred to in Answers to Queries 3rd and 4th. In addition to his income as schoolmaster, the present incumbent is also Session-Clerk, the average dues of which office may be about 4, los. annually, which sum is to be added to the amount of income specified in Answers 3rd and 4th. George Paterson, Esq., the principal heritor, patronises the Parochial School, and has given ^5 annually for teaching poor scholars on his estates, since the year 1818 (having allowed 3 annually prior to that year for the same purpose), and also ji, is for teaching a Sunday school. Lord Kinnaird, another of the heritors, has also given 2, IDS. annually, since the year 1820, for teaching poor scholars on his estates. It may be observed that these allowances are not permanent, or of right, but only during pleasure. The whole average income from every source betwixt 1803 and 1824, in Answer to Query APPENDIX 307 3rd, was about ^55. And the whole emoluments in 1825 from every source, in Answer to Query 4th, is ^59, 6s., in- cluding bad debts, or fees that are at present owing, but may never be paid. Peter Forbes, schoolmaster, Longforgan, 8th October 1825. We, the minister, and two of the heritors of the parish of Longforgan, having read over, and considered the fore- going Queries with the Answers thereto, as made out by the schoolmaster, do certify them to be true, according to the best of our knowledge. fRobt. S. Walker, Minister. (Signed) J. Geo. Paterson. [Thos. Drummond. H Inns, etc. More than one mention is made in the Session Records of the Brewers' houses in the town of Longforgan. In Earl Patrick's time there were three. When Sinclair's Statistical was published, there were two inns in the village, one at the west end, "and another about the middle of the town, upon a much larger scale, with a brew- house, malt barn, bake-house, and good stabling attached to it" (xix. 472). There were altogether in the parish at that time two brewers, two innkeepers, and four alehouses (p. 488). When the New Statistical was written (1838), there were " four licensed public-houses in the parish, besides the toll-house, forming the boundary between the counties of Perth and Angus" (New Stat., Ace. x. 412). These were situated in Longforgan, Kingoodie, Mylnefield. The result of this state of things was melancholy. There are now two licensed houses in the parish one at Invergowrie, and one at Longforgan. 3o8 APPENDIX I Financial Statement of Free Church Congregation in 1893. In connection with the Jubilee of the Free Church, "a Statement of Accounts for fifty years, from the Disruption, 1 8th May 1843 to i5th March 1893," was compiled by D. M. Watson and John Smith, joint-treasurers of the church. This is a somewhat unique compilation. It contains a list of the ministers of Longforgan from the Reformation to the Disruption, the names of the Free Church ministers, and elaborate statistics of the receipts and expenditure of the past fifty years under thirty-four headings, etc. It is a statement of great value as illustrating the growth of Christian liberality in the district. A few figures may be given : Total receipts in 1 844, ,243 9 3^ ^1893,^771 2 5 Sustentation Fund ,131211!. ^335 1911 Missions Schemes ., ,197 i 10 Collections and ) r r donations } ^ 6 7 " " ^ 7 ' The church, built in 1843-44, cost ,412, 145. The manse, built in 1849, cos t $ 2 %i 7 s - 6d. The manse library has been gathered at a cost of about ^1400. A large sum has been spent both on the church and on the manse since they were built. We are especially thankful to see an increase of mission- ary liberality. M'Cheyne was perhaps the first to give an im- pulse to this cause. The impulse has been renewed by many, notably by the Rev. Dr. Paton of the New Hebrides on two memorable occasions, and the Rev. Dr. Laws of Livingstonia. APPENDIX 309 Long/organ Free Church Manse Library. The following reference to this remarkable collection appeared lately in the Free Church Monthly Record'. " In the Free Church manse of Longforgan, is a library which deserves to be better known. The idea of it originated, we believe, with Mr. Watson of Bullionfield, to whose contributions it mainly owes its existence. The first proposal was to establish it in Dundee, to connect it with the Free Library there, and to make it open to ministers of all denominations. This plan, however, was abandoned, and the library is now a local one, for the use of the Free Church minister of Longforgan, the presbytery and the deacons' court being trustees. Its cost, including bookcases, has been about ^1300, an additional sum of ;ioo being sunk, and the interest spent on repairs, etc. The library is a very valuable one. It is rich in patristic literature, and contains some rare books, such as Knox's Liturgy (1611), Laud's Liturgy (1637), the Babylonish Talmud, etc. It is also well supplied with the works of the great English Church writers, with the literature of Scotland during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and with many commentaries and books of reference." K Christian Agencies in 1895. There are four churches (i) The Established Church, (2) The Free Church, (3) The Scottish Episcopal Church, (4) The Established Church Mission. There are, in all of these, two services of some kind on Sabbath. In con- nection with one or all of them, there are Sabbath Schools, Bible Classes, Sewing and Mission Work Meetings, Prayer Meetings, Tract Distribution, etc. 3io APPENDIX There is a Mission Hall at Kingoodie, where a Service and a School are held on Sabbath, and a Prayer Meeting during the week. Besides the strictly Church interests, the people con- tribute something to objects like the M'All Mission, China, Rescue Work, Colportage, etc. There is an Auxiliary of the Bible Society and a Young Women's Christian Association. Kingoodie. The meaning of Kingoodie, anciently written Chingothe, Kyngudy, Ceinguddie, Kingudie, Kingaidy, is puzzling. The first syllable Kin or Chin is, of course, the Celtic word for " head," Ceann, Kyn. Goodie may be the Gaelic Gaoth, gen Gaoithe, the wind. Ceanngaoithe, or with the article Ceannagaoithe, the headland of the wind. In Bourtie parish, Aberdeenshire, there is a hill called " Kingoodie Hill," 600 feet high. In the same parish there was a place, Kingoodie, where there were marks of the remains of a chapel. " Kingoodie is now part of the estate of Blair, and on its coming into the possession of Mr. Leith (a nephew of Mr. Leith Lumsden of Clova) he changed the name of the house to Leithfield" (Rev. W. Temple's Thanage of Fermartyn, p. 366). Dr. Davidson of Bourtie informs me that the farm of Greystone or East Kingoodie (compare in our district Greystane and Kingoodie), where formerly stood a hamlet, is entirely exposed to the wind, and would exactly answer the above derivation. The rest of the property of Kingoody or, as it is now more usually called, Blair dips down from this elevated wind-swept point. Kingoodie in Perthshire owes its importance to its quarry. It is on the Mylnefield estate. Last century, Mr. Mylne the proprietor built a number of cottages there for the quarrymen. We cull the following from an in- APPENDIX 311 teresting note on the Kingoodie quarry in Sinclair's Statistical : " The Kingoody stone is of a greyish colour, called by minerologists Grain-stone ; it is difficult to work ; hard and durable to an uncommon degree; so much so, that the fine old tower, the steeple of Dundee, which was built of it in King David the Second's time, has shown scarce any symptoms of decay, except where the influence of the town atmosphere reaches. Castle Huntly, supposed to be built in 1452, has scarce a stone in it which has yielded to the influence of the weather; and a gate at that place, built of Kingoody stone, by Earl Patrick of Strathmore, 130 years ago, is crowned with four pyramids, the points of which appear perfectly entire at this day (1797), not measuring more in diameter than i-i6th of an inch. These are only a few amongst many instances of its durability. " Mr. Mylne, the proprietor, employs from fifty to sixty hands in the quarry of Kingoody ; four boats for transport- ing stone, which are navigated by nine hands, and not only sends stones to the whole extent from Montrose to Perth by water, but likewise for fifteen or sixteen miles of country round by land carriage. He also sends considerable quantities to England ; and lately undertook, by contract, to furnish stones from this quarry to two navigable canals, the one called the Gippon's Navigation, near Ipswich ; the other the Chelmsford Canal, near Maldon, in Essex. He has built a considerable village upon the spot for the labourers, the inhabitants of which at present amount to 116 of all ages. "Although it does not properly belong to this paper to interfere with the business of revenue or finance, yet as the subject is curious, it is worth while to remark, that owing to the interpretation put upon the wording of the late Act 3 i2 APPENDIX of Parliament, for imposing a duty upon stone sea-borne, by the revenue officers, the exportation of stone from this quarry, in all probability, will soon be at an end. For, although the whole revenue arising to Government, betwixt the 5th day of July 1794 and the 5th day of July 1795, from this duty, was only ^16, i8s. 3fd., yet, from the distance between Kingoody and the ports of Perth and Dundee, such is the difficulty of procuring coast-despatches for a cargo of stone, worth only 175., and not exceeding lod. per ton in value, as to prolong a voyage, performed, before the commencement of this Act, in twelve hours, to three days. Whatever reasons Government may have for continuing this Act, as it is at present, does not fall within our province to say ; but although of very small import to them, it is a very material concern to the proprietor and his employees ; for, in the year above mentioned, this duty alone occasioned a delay of work equal to twenty times the value of the duty paid." Robertson ( General View of the Agriculture in the County of Perth, p. 35) speaks of it as "unquestionably the finest in the county. Many astonishing slabs are raised at Kingoodie." Morison, in his Guide to the City of Perth and its Environs, published in 1812, says of the Depot (for 7000 prisoners of war) built at Perth in that year : " These buildings are chiefly of whinstone, from quarries in the vicinity of the town, and that of Kingoody Quarry in the neighbourhood of Dundee." The inner work of the Bell Rock Lighthouse is of Mylnefield stone. In 1838, when the New Statistical was written, the company which rented the quarries were employing between 50 and 60 men. Good workers had 143. a week. There were three boats carrying stone. There are now (1895) between 60 and 70 men employed. Rossie Priory, the seat of Lord Kinnaird, was built of stone from another quarry in the parish. APPENDIX 313 In Edward's Description of the County of Angus, 1678, he makes it terminate in one direction, "at the quarry of Kingudie." The quarry was the scene of an unfortunate railway accident in 1852. A train was thrown over the bridge beside it. The guard, Charles Balfour, was so dreadfully injured that he lay between life and death for months. He recovered, however, and was appointed stationmaster at Glencarse. He wrote "The Iron Horse," describing a journey from Dundee to Perth, in the early days of the rail- way. The piece has a local interest. We give two verses : " Come Hieland man, come Lowland man, come every man on earth, man, And I'll tell you how I got on atween Dundee and Perth, man ; I gaed upon an iron road, a rail they did her ca', man ; It was ruggit wi' an iron horse, an awfu' beast to draw, man. Sing fal la la. The beast it roared, and aff we gaed, through water, earth, and stanes, man ; We ran at sic a fearfu' rate, I thought we'd brak our banes, man ; Till by and by we stoppit at a place ca'd something Cowrie, But ne'er a word had I to say, but only sit an' glower aye. Sing fal la la." This song may be found in Ford's Harp of Perthshire, where a place is also given to the songs of one or two local men. Amongst these are the authors of Random Readings in Verse and Prose, and Up Glenesk. M Bullionfield. " In Scotland, the fourth of July used to be known as Martin of Bullion's Day, in honour of the translation of the saint's body to a shrine in the cathedral of Tours. There is some uncertainty about the origin of the term Bullion, though, according to the likeliest etymology, it is derived 314 APPENDIX from the French bouiller, to boil, in allusion to the heat of the weather at that time of the year. There is an old proverb that if the deer rise up dry and lie down dry on Martin of Bullion's Day, there will be a good gose-harvest, i.e. an early and plentiful one. . . . There are traces of both Martin and Bullion in Scottish topography. In Perthshire there is the parish of St. Martin's, containing the estate of St. Martin's Abbey. Some miles to the east is Strathmartin in Forfarshire, already alluded to, and not far from it in the same county we find Bullionfield, in the parish of Liff and Benvie. It is probable that these names are in some way connected together." (Cf. Folklore of Scottish Lochs and Springs, by James M. Mackinlay, F.S.A., Scot, pp. 48-49.) In Pennant's Tour in Scotland, i. p. 78, we read: "Re- passed the Tay at Bullion's Boat; visited the field of Loncarty." Bullion's Boat is not very far from St. Martin's. The beautiful gateway leading into Greystane, just across the road from Bullionfield, was a part of the old St. Paul's Churchyard, London. N Storms and Distress. The Ettrick Shepherd has a paper of thrilling interest in his Tales on storms. He says : " Storms constitute the various eras of the pastoral life. They are the red lines in the shepherd's manual the remembrancers of years and ages that are past the tablets of memory by which the ages of his children, the times of his ancestors, and the rise and downfall of families are invariably ascertained. Even the progress of improvement in Scottish farming can be traced traditionally from these, and the rent of a farm or estate given with precision, before and after such and such a storm, though the narrator be uncertain in what century the said notable storm happened. ' Mar's year,' and ' that year the Hielanders raide,' are but secondary mementos to APPENDIX 315 the year nine, and the year forty these stand in bloody capitals in the annals of the pastoral life, as well as many more that shall hereafter be mentioned." Hogg describes the thirteen drifty days about 1620, the blast o 1 March 2^th, 16 , when many thousands of sheep perished in a forenoon. "The years 1709, 40, and 72, were all likewise notable years for severity. In the latter, the snow lay from the middle of December until the middle of April, and all the time hard frozen. Partial thaws always kept the farmer's hope of relief alive, and thus prevented him from removing his sheep to a lower situation, till at length they grew so weak that they could not be removed. There has not been such a general loss in the days of any man living as in that year. It is by these years that all subsequent hard winters have been measured, and, of late, by that of 1795. But of all the storms that ever Scotland witnessed, or I hope ever will again behold, there is none of them that can be compared with the memorable 24th of January 1794, which fell with such peculiar violence on that division of the south of Scotland that lies between Crawford-muir and the border. In these bounds there were seventeen shepherds perished, and upwards of thirty carried home insensible, who afterwards recovered ; but the number of sheep that were lost far outwent any possibility of calcu- lation. One farmer alone, Mr. Thomas Beattie, lost seventy- two scores for his own share." It appears from the Records that remain that most of these were times of storm and distress in our district. One or two facts may be given. In 1607 there was a steady frost from December i to March 21, and "passage upone the yce over Tay all the tyme (at Perth) and passage ower and ower at the mil of Enrol." The frost of 1623-24 is spoken of as surpassing anything that has been experienced. There are a good many allusions to snow and impassable roads during the same century. If 1709 was disastrous, 1740 was dreadfully so, 316 APPENDIX owing to the wildness of the storm in January. More memorable still is the storm of 1772. For a year or two the harvests had been scanty. The suffering was intensified by the great storm of 1772 and the poor harvest, and cul- minated in the Meal Mob riots which affected the district. The same causes, the storm, and the scanty harvest of 1795, issued in widespread suffering. The year 1812 is another black one in the annals of the poor. Of recent storms the most famous are the Tay Bridge storm of 1879; the wild November gale of 1893, when thousands of the forest giants of Scotland and some of our noblest trees were hurled to the ground; and last, but not least, the long and strong frost and the blinding blizzard of 1895. INDEX ABERDEEN, Breviary of, 72. Abernyte, 13, 261-62. Accommodation, church, 297-8. Action sermon in 1678, 186. Ad Tavum, 26. Agricola, 26. Ague, 209, 229. Alectum, 70. Aleethe, 70, 71. Alexander I., 49-51, 75, 84. Almshouse of Red Friars, 55, 56. Anderson, Dr. Joseph, 58. Andrews, St., 104, in, 134, 135, I 36i 137, 140, 146, 203. BALBUNNOCK, etc., 17, 82, 102. Baledgarno, 29, 77, 84, 121, 220. Balfour, Sir James, 37, 49. Balgavie, 32. Baliol, John, 30, 31, 77, 78. Balnaves, Henrie, 31. Balruddery, 19. Bannockburn, 80. Barbour (Bruce), 31, 79. Barony Court, 88-92. Barony of Longforgan, 172. Beadles, 185, 199. Beaton, Cardinal, 31-33 Benvie, 22, 61, 134. Bernard, St. , 66. Boniface, 44-47. Bonnet makers of Dundee, 65. Bounties, 126. Bovates, 52. Boyce, Hector, 70. Broune, David, 149, 167, 168. Bruce, Robert the, 14, 30, 31, 77, 78. Bulien, Bulyeoun, 82, 122. Bullion's Boat, 314. Bullionfield, 19, 83, 296, 313-14. Burial in church, 174-75. Burns, William, 261. CAIRNS, Adam, 150, 235-59. ,, Dr. Adam, 247-59. Calderwood's History, 31, 34, 35. Caledonian canoe, 28. Camp, Roman, 25. Candlish, Dr., 263. Canmore, 29. Carse, 13, 22, 24, 25, 27, 38, 40, 48, 61, 214, 227, 228, 229. Carucates, 52. Cater Milley, 25-27. Chalmers, Caledonia, 26. Chambers, Robert, 62. Charles I., 140. ,, II., 36, 172, 175. Charlie, Prince, 39. Christesoun, John, 57. Christian agencies, 309, 310. Chronicle of Perth, 161. Church charities, 187, 188. Church, pre-Reformation, 131-46. Cistercians, 66. Clayhills, the, 62. Clock, the church, 179, 184, 185. Coffins found, 40. Coins found, 40. Communicants, number of, 245. Conchubranus, 69, 71. Cottar houses, 18, 112. Coupar Abbey, etc., 66, 75, 76, 224. Covenant, the, 162, 167. Covenanters, 112, 167, 168. Cromwell, 113, 296. Cross, the old, 122, 123. Culfargie, 208. Cumberland, Duke of, 39, 40. DARGIE, 43, 48. Dargo, Dargoch, etc., 52, 53. Darien Company, 178. David I, 76. II, 80, 81. 317 INDEX Dialogues on Episcopacy, 191. Discipline, Church, 180, 201-2, 210, 245- Disruption, the, 263-66. Dominicans, Perth, 137. Dovecots, 233. Drimmie, 19. Drink money, 180. Dron, 15, 16. Dron, chapel of, 65-68. Drunkenness, 180, 181, 245, 246, 307. Duncan, Professor, 203. Dundee,' 29, 31, 34, 36, 37, 38, 39, 55. 65. 70, 81, 121, 140, 141, 145, 146, 155, 168, 169, 213. EDUCATION, 244, 245. Edward I., 30, 77. Elders, 195, 236. Elphinston, William, 150, 198, 205. Episcopal Intrusion, 150, 198, 199. Epitaph of Modwenna, 71. Errol, 13, 39, 135, 220. Expectants, 173. FAIRS, 172, 241, Fast Days, 21 o. Feus of Scone, 53-54. Financial Statement of Free Church in 1893, 308. Fingask, 38, 39. Fittis, R. , 99. Forbes, Bishop, 69. Fordun, John of, 77, 84. Forrester, David, 149, 177-93. ,, family of, 178. Fowlis-Easter, 13, 133, 135. ,, kirk of, 37. Fraser, Sir William, 78. GALLOWAY, Patrick, 149, 151. George III. Jubilee, 242-43. ,, death, 242. Gilfillan, Rev. G. , 245. Glamis Book of Record, 95, 116, 128, 146, 176, etc. Glamis Castle, 78, 113, 115, 118, 119, 121, 126. Glamis Tree, 20. Glas of Tealing, 207, 208. Glastreth, 80, 83. Gobriat, the, 47. Goodfellow, John, 149, 150. Goors or Gows, 62, 65. Gordon, Emma, 94, 106. Gornar, Dan, 54. Gow, Neil, 211. Gowns of judges, 127. Gows, the, 65. Gray, family of, 80, 100, 101. ,, Sir Andrew, 14, 83, 96, 97, 100, 106-8. Greystane, 48, 314. HAITLIE; William, 57. Haldane, Robert, 17. Haldane's Tabernacle at Abernyte, 262. Hall, Ninian, 56. Hamilton, Dr. James, 261. Harry, Blind, 29. Harvesting, 233-35. Hastings, Sir Edmund de, 78, 83. Hays of Errol, 66. Heritors, list of, 296. Highland Jean, 285-290. Historical Manuscripts, Report on, 39, 78, 92. Hodge, James, 150, 197-205. Horestii, the, 26. Horsley, Bishop, 62. Houses, 112, 220, 221, 272. Hundhil, the, 87, 92. Hunter, Rev. J., 267. Hunter's, Woods and Forests of Perthshire quoted, 20. Huntly, Castle, 19, 20, 31, 36, 37, 38, 82, 83, 93-108, 111-29, J 67, 171, 172, 176, 198, 224, 231, etc. Hurley-Hawkin, 75. Husband-land, 52. ICE on Tay, 157, 315. Inchmartin, Sir David, 30. Inchture, 12, 13, 122, 135, 200, 201. Inns, 307. Invergowrie, 17, 19 ; Burnmouth of, 27, 28, 121, 122 ; bridge at, 28 ; kirk of, 43-65, 135 ; Wishart at, 34- JACOBIN PRINCIPLES, 227. James II., 81. ,, III., 81, 137. ,, IV., 81, 82. ., V., 83. VI., 36. Jamieson, 114. Jarden, James, 149, 156, 157. Jews and Meg Craw, 260. Johnnestoun, St., 32. Johnson, Dr. Sam., 20. Johnston, Rev. J., 15, 47. Johnstone, Nelly, 274-85. INDEX 319 KEITH, 30, 79, 84. Kettins, 55. Kilspindie, 13, 29, 47, 135, 154, 155. Kinfauns, 13, 54. Kinghorne, First Earl, 102. ,, Second Earl, 102, 103. Kingoodie, 17, 18, 96, 310-13. Kinnaird, 13, 36. ,, Sir George, 128, 175, 176. Kinnoull, 13, 151. Knox, James, 26, 27. Knox, John, 31, 36. LAURIE, Joseph, 149, 157-67. ,, Robert, 161-67. Lay of Castle Huntly, 106-8. Leases, old, 224, 225-27. Liber Ecclesie de Scon, 50. Liff, 13, 49, 52, 53, 54, 57, 135. Lithgow, William, 103, 129, 148. Lochton, 13, 19, 143, 292. Longforgan, meaning of name, 13-16 ; scenery, 16 ; population of, 17, 295 ; work in, 18, 19 ; residences in, 19 ; trees, 2022 ; remains found at, 68 ; Modvvenna in, 70-72 ; laird of, 109-29 ; people of, 1 20 ; trade with, 121 ; cross of, 122 ; teinds of, 140-45, 168 ; gifts to kirk of, 170 ; lordship of, 172, etc. Lyon, Castle, 38, 99. ,, Dr., of Glamis, 211. ,, George, 150, 205-13. MADIANUS, 47. Madoes, St., 13, 47, 61. Maiden, the, 234. Maitland, 25. Making men, 228. Malcolm, 52. Manors, royal, 75. Manse, the, 235, 303. Manse library, 313. Market Knowe, 40, 241. Marshall, Dr., 15. Marshy land, 227-29. Maxwell, 56, 140, 141, 142. M'Cheyne, 43, 260, 261, 308. Meal Mobs, 213-19. Medana, 16. Melbourne, Cairns in, 249. Metrical version of the Psalms, 163-65. Middleton, Earl of, 116. Middiltoune, James, 149, 171-73. Mill, 44. Millar, A. H., 99, 128-29. ,, David, 12, 94, cf. also 106, etc. Missions, 260, 308. Mitchell, Thomas, 149, 193-97. Modwenna, St., 15, 69-72. Monenna, St., 16. Monboddo, Lord, 18. Moncreiff, Sir Henry Wellvvood, 247-48. Moncur Castle, 19. Moneys lent, 202-3. Monipennie, John, 28. Monk, General, 37. Monorgan, 18, 22, 81-83. Moothill, the, 87. Murray, Sir Patrick Keith, 87, 92. Mylne, Alexander, 149, 168-71. ,, family of, 62, 170, 217-19. Mylnefield, 17 ; woods of, 20 ; house, 170 ; sack of, 214. NECTAN BAPTIZED, 44. Nelson's, Lord, death, 242. Nest Egg, the, 165, 166. OCHTERLONY, 27. Orchards, Carse, 22. Oxgangs, 52. PADDOCK STONE, '48. Palladius, 72. Parliament, Act of, quoted, 141. Parochial records, 136, 295-297. Patersons, the, 105-6. Pennant's Tour, 314. Pensandus, 47. Pitcairne, Dr., 193. Plague, the, 209. Playfair, Baron, 212. ,, Principal, 212. Ploughgates, 52. Poor, the, 236-40. Population, 209, 291, 298. Port- Patrick, 122. Pretender, the, 37, 198-99. Professors, no complete list of, at St. Andrews, 203. Prophecy of John Row, 152-54. Pyngill, Roger and Adam, 80, 83. QUEEN MARY, 36, 80, 101. RAMSAY OF COLLAGE, 198. Rath, 135. Rebellion, the 1715, 198. Red Friars, 55. Rents, 230. 320 INDEX Ritchie, Dr., 267. Roads, 229, 231. Robert III., 55. Robertson, 20, 224, 228, 229, 312. Rollock, 183. Rosemarkie, 44, 47. Rossie, 16, 61, 312. Rossinclerach, 135. Row,' John, 152-54. Roy, General, 26, 27. Rynd, Colin, 154-55. ,, Dominie, 151-54. ,, James, 156. ,, Patrick, 152-55. ,, Robert, 149, 151-56. ,, William, 154-55. SABBATH OBSERVANCE, 180, 185, 199, 200. Sabbath schools, 259, 301, 302. Sackcloth, appearance in, 201. Satan, legends about, 48. Schools and schoolmasters, 174, 183, 2 44> 2 4S, 3 OI > 302-7. Scone, 75. , , Abbey of, 48-49. Scots Chronicle, 28. Seceders, 246, 261, 262, 280. Services, 185, 186. Sessioners, 179. Session records, 173. Shakespeare, 86, 209. Skene, 47, 72, 75, 77. Smith, 30. ,, Androv, 167. Soir Sanct, 76. Spalding Club, 61. Spanky, John, 134. Spittal, Nicol, 149, 151. Spotswood, Archbishop, 47. Start, The, 37. Stipend, the, 168, 298-301. Stones in Invergowrie Kirk, 57-62. Storms and distress, 210, 314-16. Stool of repentance, 201-2. Stratherdel, 75. Strathmore, family of, 38, 104, 105, 179. Strathmore, First Earl, 104, 109-29, 145, 146, 171, 172, 179, 194. Stuart, Dr. John, 62, 92. Symmer, Alex., 149, 173-77. TEINDS OF LONGFORGAN, 140-45, 168. Templehall, 53, 68, 122. Ten Years' Conflict, 263. Texts noted, 194. Than ages, 75. Thirlage, 224-27. Thomas the Rhymer, 62, 65. Thrashing-mills, 232. Thriepland, Lady, 38. Tower of church, 179. Town piper, 180-83. Trinity Friars, 55. Tytler's History, 77. USSHER, Archbishop, 71, 72. Utrecht MSS., 47. VALUATION ROLL, 292-94. Venricones, the, 25. Vessels on the Tay, 28. WADSETTER, a, 113. Wages, 222, 223. Walker, Rev. R., 150, 259-67. Wallace, Sir William, 29, 30. Warden, 18, 62. Watson, James, 34, 56. John, 55, 56. Wedderburn, Alex., 140. William the Lion, ,53, 77. Wilson, Sir Daniel, 60, 61. Wishart, George, 34, 35, 56. Witchcraft, 188-00. Wodrow on the Nest Egg, 165-67. ,, sermons, 197. Wordsworth, 42, 132. Working hours in 1684, 125. Worthies of Longforgan, 269-90. Wyntown, 50, 51, 80. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. mm JUl25l9p8 AU613 -m L9-25m-9,'47(A5618)444 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A 000 998 380