34-2.9 Ducarell A tour through Normandy THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES FREDERIC THOMAS BLANCHARD ENDOWMENT FUND "& T O U R THROUGH NORMANDY, DESCRIBED In a LETTER to a FRIEND. LONDON: Printed for JOHN WOOD YE R, at Gofer's Head, the Corner of Serjeants Inn, Fleetftreet. MDCCLIV. (Entered in the Hall Book.) TOUR THROUGH NORMANDY. S I R, IN purfuance of my promife I fend you fome*t>bferva- tions, made in travelling lafl fummer with a friend through NoRMANtw; which having formerly been fo nearly allied to this kingdom, particularly deferves the attention of an Englifh antiquary. The road from LONDON to ABBEVILLE is well known, for which reafon I fhall begin with informing you, that on the i6th July, 1752, we quitted the direct road from CALAIS to PARIS at ABBEVILLE, and paffing through FRESSENVILLE, arrived that evening at Eu, the firft town in NORMANDY. On the 1 7th we faw the beautiful church of Eu, dedicated to St. Laurence (a). It is a very neat plain Gothic building in the B fhape (a) This St. Laurence is faid to have been an archbifhop of Dublin, who died here 14 Nov. 1 181, and was canonized by a bull, dated the i ith Dec. 1218. 858558 2 A TOUR through NORMANDY. {hape of a crofs, having in the middle a fine fleeple, light, and re- markably high . On each fide of the high altar we faw four fine white marble monuments of the old earls of Eu, lying at length and well finimed j on one of them is a date, 1497 > a ^ an infcription for Ann de Cleves, married to a duke of Guife, who had formerly a large eftate at this place. Under the high altar is a fubterraneous chapel containing fome marble monuments, of which we had a fight thro' iron grates contrived for that pur- pofe. Several other monuments of the fame family are alfo to be ieen in fome of the adjoining chapels ; in one was a dead Chrift furrounded by five figures, two of which are the virgin Mary, and Mary Magdalen, of a compofition which refembles plaifter of Paris and are extremely well finimed. In the Jefuit's church, near the high altar, are two elegant marble monuments j one of the duke of Guife, the other of his brother the cardinal, adorned with fine baffo relievos and their arms, but no infcriptions j coats of arms being placed to fupply that defect. The caftle of the prince de Dombes, who hath here a very confiderable eftate Hands near the church of St. Laurence. It is an old building, intended originally to form a quadrangle of which two fides only have been built. They contain large and lofty apartments,, and old family portraits of the dukes and duchefles of Guife, and of fome old Bourbons, counts of Montpenfier ; many of which are but very indifferent. This great caftle is much neg- lected, being ftript of its furniture, and as the prefent owner does not refide in it, is much out of repair and makes but an indifferent figure. Belonging to it are fine fhady walks, and at the end of them an old fummer-houfe upon a rifing ground,, which commands a charming profpect of the country and the fea. The view of this town, which ftands at the bottom of a very fteep hill, is extremely delightful, as you fee at once the A TOUR through NORMANDY. 3 the town, the caflle, and an unbounded profped of the Tea. July the 1 7th , we left Eu, and near a place called BRA- QJJEMONT, about a league from DIEPPE, we went through a very large old fortification, called Casfar's camp, mod pro- bably Roman and almoft intire ; it is on one fide open to the fea, and in it's other parts is very irregular ; but the fliape cf it in general may be properly enough called the fegment of a circle (b). At the entrance of DIEPPE is a pretty good fquare, the houfes of which are of brick, but our flay here being very fhort, lean give no farther account of this place. This even- ing we lay at TOSTES, a fmall village at a very bad inn, and on faturday the i8th, at ten in the morning, arrived at the city of ROUEN, the capital of upper NORM ANDY. Here we faw the ftately church of St. Ouen, a royal bene- dictine abby ; not very old, being begun only in 13 1 8, built in the fhape of a crofs. The pillars are extremely delicate, the church is lofty, and the proportions are well obferved. It is very light, and adorned with fine painted glafs, and the win- dows near the high altar have a pretty mixture of blue, red, and purple, which has a fine effect : the choir is circular and very beautiful ; the fpaces between the arcades which divide it from the fide ifles are filled up with elegant open iron work called Grilles defer of moft exquifite workmanfhip, be- hind the choir is the chapel of the virgin Mary, and five o- thers on each fide $ in one of the chapels we faw a clock, with B 2 the (b) See Memoires de Literature, tirez ties Regijlres de F Academie Royale des Infcrip- tions et Belles Lettres. Tom. 10. 410. Paris 1736, page 403, where you will find an exaft draught of this camp, and alfo, Differ tations fur quelques Camps connus entrance, fous le Norn de Camps de Ctefar. premiere partie fur le Camp qui eft pres de Dieppe appelle aujfi la Cite de Lime par Mr. I? Abbe Fontenu, read 27 April, 1731. 4 A TOUR through NORMANDY. the figure of St. Michael and the devil, whom the former ftrikes every hour. The great tower in the centre is very high and neat, finimed in the fhape of a crown, and much adorns this church and city (c). In fhort this church within and without, is the moft compleat and elegant Gothic building I ever faw, and is moreover kept remarkably clean. We went next into the abby where we faw a handfome refectory, the chap- ter- houfe and a large cloifter, in which I obferved fome old tfone defks ftuck to the pillars feemingly defigned to put books upon, but no image of any faint or crucifix. The cathedral of ROUEN dedicated to the virgin Mary is a fine Gothic building ; at the weft end are two towers of a dif- ferent form : one of which, built when cardinal George d'Amboife was archbifhop, began in 1485, and finimed in 1507, is called la tour de beure^ being thus named as I was in- formed, becaufepope Innocent the eighth permitted the ufe of butter in lent, to all thofe, who would contribute towards the building of it (d). In the middle is a very high fteeple which greatly adorns it. The dimenfions of this church according to the print of it, which I bought there are thefe. Length of the church 410 feet. Height of the pyramid or tower in the middle 395 feet. Height of the towers at the weft (c ) The whole length of the church of St. Ouen, meafuring from the chapel of the virgin Mary at the eaft end to the weft door, is 416 feet 8 inches French. The length of the nave from the door of the choir to the faid weft door 234 feet. The length of the choir 1 08 feet. The length of our lady's chapel is 66 feet. The diftance between the choir and the faid chapel is 8 feet 8 inches. The breadth of the nave including the fide ifles is 78 feet. The breadth of each fide ifle 22 feet. The breadth of the nave, exclufive of the fide ifles, 34 feet. The height from the pavement to the roof is i oo feet. The length of the crofs ifle from the great north door to the fouth 1 30 feet; and the breadth 34 feet. This church and convent is engraven in feven fine prints at the expenee of the monks of this abby. (d) In this tower is a large bell called George D'Amboife, weighing, as we were told, 3 6000 weight, but we did not fee it. A TOUR through NORMANDY. 5 weft end 236 feet. Width of the portal at the weft includ- ing the two towers 170 feet. Adjoining to the weft end is a fquare piece of ground enclofed with a ftone wall, called to this day the Parvis or Aitre. The principal entrances into this cathedral are five, viz. three at the weft, one at the north, and one at the fouth. Over the three weft doors are fine hi- ftorical baflb Relievos in ftone, and you defcend by two fteps into it every way. It confifts of a nave and two fide ifles, which laft are rather too narrow for the height. The pillars of the nave are pretty thick. The nave itfelf appears, as well from tradition as from the building, to be the oldeft part of the fabric, and from the difference of the ornaments in the upper part of it, one may farther collect that it has been en- larged at different times. It has alfo a crofs ifle, and 130 painted glafs windows, fome of which are extremely fine. the choir is neatly fitted up. The archiepifcopal throne hand- fome and placed on the fouth fide. The eaft end is circular and furrounded with fine grilles of brafs curioufly wrought (e). There is an afcent of three fteps up to the high altar, which has a good effect. Over it there rifes a fine wooden pillar, moft exquifitely wrought and gilt, reprefenting fome cheru- bims, highly finimed. The whole pavement is of the fi- neft marble, and was new laid about eighteen years ago, at which time all the old monuments, which flood there, were removed (f), and in their places are now the following in- fcriptions in lozenges, viz* On (e) Thefe grilles, or brafs rails, befides their magnificent appearance, have this farther good effeft, that they do not intercept the view ; fb that when we looked to- wards the altar we faw behind it the virgin Mary's chapel, which is moft elegantly adorned. (f) I was feveral times in this cathedral, and made the ftrifteft inquiry I could after the two ftatues of Henricus junior and king Richard the firft, which were A TOUR through NORMANDY, On the right hand of the altar COR RICHARDI REGIS ANGLIC NORMANNI/E DVCIS COR LEONIS DICTI OBIIT ANNO MCXCIX. On were formerly on their monuments in this choir, where the two abovementioned infcriptions are at prefent ; I ufed my utmoft diligence to get a fight of them ; and for that purpofe fearched, though without fuccefs, into feveral difufed chapels, where nothing was to be met with but very old monuments of former archbimops with broken mitres. All I could learn was, that on the repairing this choir eighteen years ago their monuments and ftatues were removed; which fince my return I find are ingraven in the fecond volume of Monumens de la Monarchie Fran^oife, by Montfaucon, page 114, plate 15. as for the duke of Bedford's infcription, faid by Breval to be in the library belonging to this church, the librarian knew nothing of it : but it is happily preferved and ingraven in Sandf ord's Genealogical Hiftory of the Kings of England, page 306, ed. 1677. A TOUR through NORMANDY. On the left hand of the altar, HIC JACET HENRICVS JVNIOR RICHARDI REGIS ANGLIC COR LEONIS DICTI FRATER OBIIT ANNO MCLXXXIII. In the choir behind the high altar is the following infcrip- tion, in a lozenge. AD DEXTRVM ALTARIS LATVS JACET JOHANNES DVX BEDFORDI NORMANNLdS PROREX OBIIT ANNO MCCCCXXXV. In 8 A TOUR through NORMANDY. In the middle of the choir, where formerly flood the mo- nument of Charles the fifth of France, is now the follow- ing infcription on a flat black marble, viz. D. o. M. ET JETERN^E MEMORISE SAPIENTISSIMI PRINCIPIS CAROLI V GALLIARVM REGIS NORMANNLE ANTEA DVCIS QVI HANG ECCLESIAM AMORE SINGVLARI COMPLEXVS BENEFICIISQVE IMMENSIS PROSECVTVS EANDEM AVGVSTISSIMI CORDIS SVI RELIQVTT HEREDEM VBI IN OMNIVM ANIMIS VIVE3.E NVNQVAM DESINET OBIIT ANNO SALVTIS HVMAN^E MCCCLXXX. The monument of Charles the fifth of France, which flood formerly in the middle of the choir was removed from thence, when that was repaired, to the fouth fide of St. Mary's chapel (g) behind the high alcar : the tomb is of black marble, but the flame is of white, which reprefents him lying at full length in his royal robes with his heart in his hand. In the fame chapel, on the fouth fide, near the altar is a monument, which may be truly called (as it is there) a maufoleum of the two cardinals d'Am- boife, uncle and nephew, archbifhops of ROUEN. Both their ftatues are of white marble in a kneeling poflure, and the whole is adorned wkh a great number of figures in niches of exquifite workmanmip. In the fame chapel are feveral epitaphs which I (g) There are feveral other chapels in this cathedral on each fide of that of the virgin Mary, but 1 cannot exactly afcertain the number. A T O U R through NORMANDV. 9 I omit, as not relating to the hiftory of England. On the other fide are four monuments, amongft which there is a fine one of Mr. de BREZE V a nobleman of Normandy. In the middle of the crofs ifle of the church {lands the Font which is of black marble, and looks like one of our old altar monuments, being an oblong fquare pointing eaft and weft. We faw the library belonging to this cathedral, which is a darkiih room, con- taining a good many printed books, and fome indifferent pic- tures of its benefactors ; the librarian was a young ecclefiaflic, who feemed unacquainted with his bufinefs (h). At the houfeof Mr. For textile, frocureur general 'at ROUEN, in a large handfome court, we faw the fine Baflb relievos, which reprefent the magnificent interview of HENRY the eighth of England and FRANCIS the firft of France, between GUISNES and ARDRES in PICARDY, on the yth of June, 1520. They are of marble in five compartments, under fo many windows on the left hand of the court ; they have fuffered in fome places, being a little broken here and there, but are not much fpoiled (i). I muft likewife obferve, that over each of thefe five windows, there are five other Baflb relievos of the fame fize ; three of which are almoft totally defaced, but the remains of the two others C appeared (b) The chapter of this cathedral confifts of 50 canons, befides prebendaries, to whom fome lands in England did formerly belong ; viz. the manor of Clere in Sur- ry, the manor of Oteri in Devonlhire, the manor of Kilburn in Yorkfhire ; & ca- pellaria de Tikebull, data a domino rege Johanne, quando fait comes, ad quatuor pree- bendai, ad faciendum anni, the town is well inhabited, and we faw many women making lace in the ftreets. At the entrance of the town, is a handfome barrack for the garrifon $ lord Clare's Irifli regiment lay there j the foldiers (who had fixpence a day French) were drefled in red turned up with yellow cuffs, and made a better appearance than any foldiers I faw elfewhere. This town hath twenty-two religious houfes, and thirteen pa- rim churches; that of St. Peter is the chief, which is large and handfome, beautified with good painted glafs within, a very lofty fteeple without, and flands in the centre of the town. About the town are fine walks, and from the ramparts we had a view of the old caftle (built by WILLIAM the conqueror according to Mr. Huet in his Origines de la Ville de^ Caen, pag. 59. edit. 1702) which we were told was not worth feeing, and A TOUR through NORMANDY. 19 and only ufed for a mad-houfe j I have fince greatly blamed myfelf for not carefully viewing it, as it appeared at the di- ilance we faw it, both in ftile and manner of building fo much to refemble ROCHESTER caftle, which is known to be the work of a Norman, and to have been begun in the reign of WILLIAM the firft. At the two extremities of the town are the two great abbies of St. STEPHEN and the TRINITY, di- flant a league from each other. July 30. We vifited the large and magnificent Benedic- tine abby of St. STEPHEN, richly indowed and founded by WILLIAM duke of NORMANDY, afterwards king of ENGLAND. The church is a plain ftone building, intirely free from ornaments of any fort within or without. We entered at the weft end by a defcent of three fteps. There are three doors to this church, one to the nave, and one to each ifle, all with round arches, having over each of them a window with a round arch likewife. This church is built in the fhape of a crofs, with a fteeple in the centre, and two fine fpires remarkably high at the weft end, and confifts of a nave and two fide iiles : the arches which feparate the nave from the two ifles are round, and all the windows and doors throughout the church have likewife round arches j the middle part of the tranfept on the infide (where the fteeple is) very much refembles the work of the crofs part of the abby church of St. ALBAN'S in Hertford/hire (r) having the fame kind of little arched work towards the top. The choir is circular and very neat, having Grilles defer about that part of it which furrounds the high altar, but they were not fo well finimed as thofe we had feen at the church of St.OuEN at ROUEN. The arches on both fides of D 2 the (r) The church of St. Albans was built by Abbat Paul a Norman, nephew of archbiihop Lahfranc who was elected abbat, 4 Cal. Jul, 1077. 20 A TOUR through NORMANDY. the choir are pointed, which is owing to the reparations made to this church fince 1562. In that year the original and ftate- ly monument of WILLIAM the conqueror, which flood in the middle of the choir, was deflroyed ; when according to Sand- ford, " Chaftillion taking the city of Caen, certain difTolute " foldiers opened the tomb, and not finding the treafure they * e expected, brake it to pieces, and threw forth the conqueror's " bones with great derifion, fome whereof were afterwards c< brought into England. But the monks, lately in the year " 1642, in the place thereof, caufed a plain altar tomb to be " built." See Sandford's Genealogical Hiftory, Edit. 1677, page 7. where the faid tomb is ingraven (s). This fecond monu- ment ftood there till the year 1742, when it was intirely re- moved, and in lieu of it, there is at prefent only the follow- ing Epitaph upon the ground on a flat black marble : QVI REXIT RIGIDOS NORMANNOS ATQVE BRITANNOS AVDACTER VICIT FORTITER OBTINVIT ET CENOMANENSES VIRTVTE COERCVIT ENSES IMPERIIQVE SVI LEGIBVS APPLICVIT REX MAGNVS PARVA JACET HIC VILLELMVS IN VRNA SVFFICIT H^EC MAGNO PARVA DOMVS DOMINO TER SEPTEM GRADIBVS SE VOLVERAT ATQVE DVOBVS VIRGINIS IN GREMIO PHOEBVS ET HIC OBIIT ANNO MLXXXVII REQVIESCEBAT IN SPE CORPVS BENEFICIENTISSIMI FVNDATORIS QVVM A CALVINIANIS ANNO MDLXII DISSIPATA SVNT EIVS OSSA VNVM EX EIS A VIRO NOBILI QVI TVM ADERAT RESERVATVM ET A POSTERIS ILLIVS ANNO MDCXLII RESTITVTVM IN MEDIO CHORO DEPOSITVM FVERAT MOLE SEPVLCHRALI DESVPER EXTRVCTA HANC CEREMONIARVM SOLEMNITATE MINVS ACCOMMODAM AMOVERVNT MONACHI ANNO MDCCXLII REGIO FVLTI DIPLOMATE ET OS QVOD VNVM SVPERERAT REPOSVERVNT IN CRYPTA PROPE ALTARE IN QVO IVGITER DE BENEDICTIONIBVS METET QVI SEMINAVIT IN BENEDICTIONIBVS FIAT FIAT. (j) It is alfo ingraven in Tindal's Rapin in Folio, Vol. I. p. 1 80. A TOUR through NORMANDY. 21 This is the only monument, or rather cenotaph, of WIL- LIAM the conqueror. We faw no other epitaph in this church (which is kept remarkably clean) nor any thing elfe worth notice, except an handfome clock and fome very pretty chapels round the choir. The convent is a fine flone building, confid- ing of two large fquares ; we went into the new one, two fides of which have lately been rebuilt, and a third is begun; we there faw two very long and beautiful galleries, next to which are the cells of the monks, which were not fhewn to us j thefe cells and galleries are up one and two pair of flairs. Under them is a very large Refectory fronting the garden, and near it an handfome room well fitted up ; over the chimney we faw the pretended picture of WILLIAM the conqueror, which is very exactly ingraven in Montfaucon's Monumem de la Mo- narchie Fran$oife, Vol. ift. Plate 55. but upon the flrictefl examination I can think it to be no other than a picture of king HENRY the eighth, or at leaft to have been done in his time. In this room we were alfo fhewn the pictures of the prefent king and queen of FRANCE, that of cardinal Fleuri late abbat of this convent, and fome other modern pictures, but could not learn that they had any ancient pictures whatever (t). The fourth fide of this quadrangle is an old building with pointed arched windows and doors now going to ruin, which will be pulled down and rebuilt as foon as the third is finimed, to make the quadrangle uniform. Near it we faw an old flone building called une Grange with pointed arches ; on the floor of which, we were told, were feveral ancient coats of arms ; but when we afked (/) Father Montfaucon in his Monumens de la Monarchic Fraapi/e, Vol. ift. plate 55. has preferved fome ancient paintings of William the conqueror, Matilda his wife, and their two fons Robert and William Rufus, which were formerly in this abby but have been deftroyed many years. 22 A TOUR through NORMANDY. afked to fee them, the anfwer was, that it was filled with corn, and that they could not get the key. The other quadrangle is very large, but not clofely built; in it I faw a very confiderable an- cient ftone building which took up almoft the whole length of it, with many windows ; one half of which had round, the other pointed arches. The laft building we faw was the Abbat's houfe, very large, with round arches, but nothing elfe re- markable. All thefe old buildings are defigned to be pulled down and rebuilt to make the convent more regular. The whole is furrounded with large and extenfive gardens. By a moft unaccountable forgetfulnefs we omitted feeing what they called the conqueror's kitchin. From thence we went to the abby of the TRINITY richly indowed and founded by MATILDA ' the conqueror's wife, for Benedictine Nuns. We firft went to the church, and defcending by three fleps, came into an ante-chapel, where we faw nothing re- markable, except the grate for the Nuns to look through; but when we entered the church, we were greatly furprized with its magnificence and beauty. It is paved with black and white marble, the altar is of different beautiful marbles, and raifed feven or eight fteps, it is moreover adorned with fix fine marble pillars, red, veined with white, fupporting a large magnificent gilt crown, on the top of which is a gilt crofs 5 the ceiling is finely painted in the fhape of a dome j over the altar which is loaded with gilt plate, are three very beautiful pictures. At the north weft corner is a pretty little altar with a good picture alfo. This church confifts of one large ifle only ; in the middle is a partition about twelve feet high, which feparates it from another church which was not mewn to us. The flails about it are plain, but very neat, and in my opinion this church is more elegantly adorn- ed A TOUR through NORMANDY. 23 cd than any I faw in France. Every one of the arches of this and the adjacent church are round. The building within and without is plain, and free from any Gothic ornaments j the doors and windows have alfo round arches. In the middle of the choir ftands the monument of queen Matilda, built of black marble three feet high and about fix feet long, in the ftiape of a coffin, furrounded with a row of iron Ipikes of about three * inches in length, which are fixed upon the top of the monument. In an efcutcheon at the head or weft end are the arms of the conqueror, viz. two Lions or, and in another at the oppofite end a Crown or. The workmanfhip of both carries with it marks of antiquity. Here I copied with great pleafure, tho' not without fome difficulty, the following epitaph, which is written in very long old Norman characters. EGREGIE PVLCRI TEGIT HEC STRVCTVRA SEPVLCRI MORIBVS INSIGNEM GERMEN REGALE MATILDEM DVX FLANDRITA PATER HVIC EXTITIT ADALA MATER FRANCORVM GENTIS ROBERTI FILIA REGIS ET SOROR HENRICI REGALI SEDE POTITI REGI MAGNIFICO VILELMO JVNCTA MARITO PRESENTER! SEDEM RECENTER FECIT ET EDEM TAM MVLTIS TERRIS QVAM MVLTIS REBVS HONESTIS A SE DITATAM SE PROCVRANTE DICATAM HEC CONSOLATRIX INOPVM PIETATIS AMATRIX GASIS DISPERSIS PAVPER SIBI DIVES EGENIS HIC INFINITE PETIIT CONSORTIA VITE IN PRIMA MENSIS POST PRIMAM LVCE NOVEMBRIS. The eight firft lines go round the face of the monument, beginning at the north weft corner : the five laft are in the middle, running acrofs from end to end. The 24 A T O U R through NORMANDY. The following infcription, written in letters of gold and Roman chara&ers, is placed in efcutcheons on the fides of the monument, On the fouth fide. REGIME MATHILDIS PRETIOSOS CINERES QVI A FVRORE HERETICORVM SERVATI SVNT LINTEO PIE INVOLVTOS CAPSVLA PLVMBEA INCLVSIT ET HONORIS CAVSA TVMVLUM HVNC HVMO ADEQVATVM NON QVIDEM REGIO APPARATV SED MEMORI ET DIGNO VT POTVIT CVLTV On the north fide. SVPER HIS EREXIT ORNAVITQVE ILLVSSTIRISSIMA ET RELIGIOSISSIMA DOMINA DOMINA GABRIELA FRANCISCA DE () DE TESSE HVJVSCE MONASTERII ABBATISSA CVJVS PIETATE TAM NOBILE MAGNIFICVM ALTARE FVIT GHRISTO NASCENT! CONSECRATVM VNO EODEMQVE ANNO MDCCVII. From this church we went into the parlour belonging to the Abbefs, which was the only part of the abby we were permitted to fee. It is a fmall room without any thing worth notice, except a moft delightful profpect of the country ex- tending to a great diftance, this abby being fituated upon a very high hill. None of the Nuns appeared, but we faw two or three women in black, with veils, who were fervants in this abby. I could neither procure nor hear of any prints of either of thefe convents, there being, I believe, none extant, and only brought away a ground plott, and a view of Caen, which I found to be very exactly done. From thence we went to fee the academy, where we were elegantly entertained by three Englifh gentlemen, ftudents there, who mewed us great civilities. This academy is no- thing (u) The name of the Lady is unfortunately erafed in my notes. A TOUR through NORMANDY. 25 thing more than a large boarding houfe j its beft apartments are much inferior to the worft at EATON. The building con- fifts of a fquare, in the middle of which you fee a wretched ftatue of LEWIS the twelfth j of this fquare three fides contain the lodgings for the fcholars j the fourth is appropriated to their ftables and coach-houfes ; behind it is the Manege or riding-fchool, a convenient and very lofty room, where we faw fome of the Englifh gentlemen performing their exercifes; and adjoining to the Manege is a {table for the managed hor- fes. The fcholars here are taught French, mathematics, mu- fic, fencing, riding the great horfe, &c. and the expence of their education may be gathered from a plan of the academy, which I (hall infert below (/) : here were only twenty-fix fcholars, that is, fixteen Englifh and Irifh, and ten French. E We (i) Copy of a printed paper given at Caen, to {hew the neceflary expences of the fcholars of that academy ; to which is added the value of the refpe&ive arti- cles in Englifti money : " A royal academy, kept by Monfieur de la Gtieriniere, at Caen, the capital city " of lower Normandy. " Boarders." French Livres." 1. s. d. " A gentleman pays per annum, 900" 39 7 6 " His entrance, . . IQO" 476 " For a governor per annum, "- 500" 21 17 6 " For a valet de chambre, 350" 15 6 3 " For a footman, 250" 10 18 9 " Cyder being the common drink of the country, thofe who " have a mind to drink wine at their meals, pay per an- " num for half a bottle each day, 100" 476 " For a bottle each day, 200" 8 15 o ' Every gentleman or governor will have a chamber with the " neceflary furniture, paying per annum, r- 80" 310 o " N. B. Fire and candle are not found any one." " Matters of the academy," " To the under riding mafter once paid, 24" i i o " To the fencing mafter, ditto, *- < 9" o 711 j To the dancing mafter ditto, T ~~" 9" o 711 f Thofe 26 A TOUR through NORMANDY. We went that night to the city of BAYEUX, where we lay. The cathedral here, built in the form of a crofs, with pointed arches, and a very high fteeple, has nothing in it re- markable " Thofe who take double leflbns, pay betides, to each or Fr. livr. 1. s. d. " thefe two laft mafters every month, 6" 5 5 " To the French mailer per month, 6" 5 5 " To the mathematic mailer per month, 9" o 711 " There are alfo mailers for Latin, hiilory, philofophy, law, " mufic, &c." " N. B. If the fervants do not eat in the academy, they are " to pay for their lodgings and furniture per annum, 40" i 15 o '* There are fervants belonging to the academy, who wait " on thofe gentlemen that have none, each paying every *' month, ' i, lofols" 013! " Day-fcholars." " For the firft month, - 100" 476 " For each of the others, 50" 239 ** The gentlemen belonging to the city, on account of the *? " penfion which the city pays, give only for the firft " month, ' 60" 212 6 * For each of the others, 30" ix 6 3 " For entrances to the porter, grooms, Sec. every boarder " and day-fcholar pay, 24" i i o " For fwitches each month, i, 5 fols" o i i " Boarders are to advance all their quarteridges, and day- " fcholars their months." " The firft quarter for a gentleman, without reckoning the " expence of wine, amounts to, 414 15 fols" 18 z 11 - 1 - " Each of the others, to 248 15 fols" 10 17 8 Exchange at 31 cL per French crown, or 10 1 d. per livre. Upon the face of this paper it is obvious to obferve, that the fcholars of this academy, living in the moil frugal manner, expend annually near 90, exclufive of fire, candles, cloaths, and pocket-money, to obtain thofe qualifications only which are taught at our COUNTRY BOARDING SCHOOLS for 25 per annum. How greatly then do thofe err who in preference to our TWO UNIVERSITIES fend their fons to FRANCE for education! A TOUR through NORMANDY. 27 tnarkable (u) ; the choir, painted glafs and pictures are but very indifferent, and I did not fee one monument or epitaph in the church. The outfides of the weft, north, and foufh doors are adorned with extreme fine baffo relievos in ftone, which have fuffered a little in fome places : upon examining diem careful- ly I judged them to be hiftorical, and to relate to the hiftory of WILLIAM the conqueror, particularly that over the fouth door, in which I thought there appeared much the fame fi- gures as in the celebrated tapeflry mentioned hereafter j and I heartily wifli thefe balfo relievos were thoroughly examined by fome perfon well {killed in drawing. Over againft the weft door is a crofs, much like our WALTHAM crofs, creeled, as we were informed, in the very place where the heretics (fo they call the proteftants) burnt their relicks in 1562. It is ornamented with the figures of St. JOHN, St. MALO, and St. Lo. Here we had the fatisfaction of feeing the famous hiftorical tapeftry, which with great exactnefs reprefents every particular circumftance of the well-known expedition of WIL- LIAM duke of NORMANDY into ENGLAND, A.D. 1066. It is one foot eleven inches in depth, and two hundred and twelve feet in length ; it goes exactly round the nave of the church, where it is annually put up on St. JOHN'S day, and continues there eight days. The ground of it is white j the men, hor- fes, and all the other figures are in their proper colours (x) } the E 2 feveral (u) This cathedral is dedicated to the virgin Mary, and was rebuilt A. D. 1159, by Philip de Harcourt bifhop of Bayeux. Fifty canons and fixty-four prebends, called vicars or chaplains, compofe the chapter. (x) See Monumens de la Monanhie Franfoife, vol. 2. page 8 & feq. See alfo Me- moires de Literature, vol. the 8th in 4to, Paris 1733, page 602, where this tape- ftry is very truly ingraven, and where you will find a full account of it in a difler- tation entitled, Explication d'un Monument de Guillaume k Conquerant, par Monjleur Lancelot, read May the gth, 1730. 28 A TOUR through NORMANDY. feveral pieces of hi ftory reprefented in this magnificent tapeftry are feparated from each other by a tree, a branch, or other or- nament : and over each diviiion is a fhort latin infcription, in letters of yellow worfted, explaining the fubftance of the ac- tion reprefented in it : as, HIC: DUX WILGELM : CUM HA- ROLDO VENIT AD PALATiuM suuM. Between the words are fometimes one, two, and three points, or flops : the whole is very exactly ingraven and defcribed by Montfaucon, except that upon examination the figures did not appear quite fo barbarous as he has reprefented them. It is no where torn, but towards the end feems not to have been finifhed. The priefts of this cathedral, to whom we addreffed our- felves for a fight of this remarkable piece of antiquity, knew nothing of it ; the circumftance only of its being annually hung up in their church led them to underftand what we wanted, no perfon there knowing that the object of our en^- quiry any ways related to WILLIAM the conqueror, whom to this day they call duke WILLIAM. This tapeftry is care- fully locked up in a large wainfcot prefs, in a chapel (on the fouthfide of the cathedral) dedicated to THOMAS a BECKETT, whofe death is there reprefented in a very indifferent old picture. The cathedral is large, but was not fpacious enough to contain the number of people who came thither to pray for the recovery of the DAUPHIN who was then ill of the fmall pox. When we came here at eight o'clock at night, we found many of them upon their knees without the church, wait- ing for the .benediction, after which the clergy with the popu- lace went round the town finging oraifom for his recovery. Near the cathedral we faw an old houfe belonging to the bi- fhops of BAYEUX, who refide thereat but little, having a much A TOUR through NORMANDY. 29 much more convenient habitation at a fmall diftance from the town : here is alfo a good houfe which belongs to the dean of this cathedral. In this city (as we were informed) are fourteen parifli churches, befides thofe belonging to the religious houfes, of which here are twelve. It is an old and very indifferent town. We were told here was an hofpital for the relief of the poor, a thing much wanted in other towns, for we found our- felves every where peftered with beggars and miferable objects, for whom no legal provifion whatfoever is made by any of their refpecttive parifhes ; the poor of this country having no^ thing to depend upon when reduced by accidents or ficknefs, but the voluntary charity of their neighbours : it is a miftake to imagine they are relieved by the religious houfes, whofe doors you are pretty fure to find clear of them, themfelves complaining that they are rendered unable through the deficir- ency of their incomes to maintain the full number of religious for which they were founded (y). Here is alfo an houfe where any poor girl may be taught the art of lace-making, and may receive the profit of it, after a fmall deduction for the miftrefs who inftructed her in it. From BAYEUX returning to CAEN, about a mile from the latter, we palled through a place called la Maladerie, where was formerly an hofpital for lepers, which is now in ruins, as is alfo a pretty large chapel adjoining to it, all the doors and windows 00 I would not here be underftood to fay pofitively, that the poor have no re- lief from the religious houfes. What I mean is, that there are not at the religious houfes in this country any public and daily diftributions of charity fuch as hifto- rians tell us were exercifed in England before the reformation. Of this kind of charity we have yet fome remains in England, particularly at Queen's College in the Univerfity of Oxford, a focjety exceedingly tenacious of antient cuftoms ; who to this day frequently diftribute provifions to the poor at the door of their hall. 30 A T O U R through NORMANDY. windows of which had round arches. From CAEN our road to PARIS, amongft other places, led us through LISIEUX and EVREUX, two biihops fees, the latter of which once gave title to the noble family ofDEVREux earls of ESSEX. We made no flay at either, but came to a fmall place called PASSY, fi- tuated upon the river EUR RE, the laft town in this province. As we are now leaving NORMANDY, I {hall clofe my ac- count of it with the following obfervations. NORMANDY is a fertile and pleafant country, full of large orchards well flocked with fruit, UPPER NORMANDY ef- pecially, where the apple trees in many places are regularly planted, for miles together, on each 'fide of the roads, which are every where wide and pleafant, and paved only where the ground is boggy ; there are in many parts of the country high hills which afford fine profpefts, efpecially thofe near the river SEINE, whofe ftream above ROUEN is about as wide as the THAMES atDATCHETT, but fo fhallow as only to admit of flat bottomed boats : the country is finely wooded, and has great plenty of game. LOWER NORMANDY has fewer or- chards than the UPPER, but has a greater quantity of grafs and confequently much larger herds of oxen, and very confi- derable flocks of fheep. The cows are but fmall j the fheep of the fame fize as thofe at NEWMARKET, and full as good. The Norman horfes are very fine ones, well fhaped and ftrong, and greatly valued every where. They have all long tails, which their owners are wifer than to cut off as we do. Their affes and mules are much larger than ours. We faw fome vines, but not many, cyder being the chief liquor of the coun- try j I tafted fome feveral times, but it is made fo weak even at gentlemen's houfes, that you run in danger of the cholic by drinking it. The great towns are populous, but the coun- try A TOUR through NORMANDY. 31 try is but thinly inhabited. The crops of corn wefaw through- out the country were very thin and (horr, which I am apt to think is not fo much owing to the nature of the ground, as to the oppreffions which the people labour under; for as the te- nant is obliged to difcharge all taxes (which taxes are impofed upon him in an almoft arbitrary manner, and without a due regard to his rent) if he happens to have a better crop than ordinary, he is fure to pay for it, and therefore is not very anxious after improvements : but thofe who are not under thefe hardfhips, viz. the farmers of lands belonging to religious houfes, have as good crops as any I ever faw in ENGLAND. Moft of the villages are fituated in bottoms ; the poor people's houfes (if I may venture to call them houfes) are made with mud walls, and are covered with thatch; the houfes in the great towns are moftly built with plaifter, and a great deal of (z) timber running upwards, downwards, and crofsways ; the firit ftory projecting beyond the ground floor, as the fecond does beyond the firft, the roofs pointed, with large ftacks of brick chimneys at each end of the houfe. We fee many fuch houfes in HERTFORDSHIRE, RUTLANDSHIRE, and other counties ( z ) Many of their old houfes when they are pulled down have a great deal of ehefnut wood about them ; and as there are no forefts of chefnut trees in Norman- dy^ the inhabitants have a tradition that this wood was brought from England : and truly there are fome circumftances which, when rightly confidered, will add' great ftrength to this tradition. For many of the old houfes in England are found to contain a great deal of this kind of timber. Several of the old houfes in Lon- don, particularly the Black Swan Inn in Holbourne, fituated near Fetter-lane-end,, (which by the way exceedingly refembles the houfes in Normandy) and others in that neighbourhood are built with much ckefnut. And moft of the antient houfes in the Vill of Che/bunt in Hertfortfhire, fo named, as fome etymologifts tell us, from the quantity of chefnut trees which abounded in that place, are built of this wood. And there are fome woods and woody places in England called by the name of Chefnut-iuood, particularly one near Sittingbourne in Kent, tho' no fuck wood is now growing there. 32 A TOUR through NORMANDY. counties in ENGLAND ; and indeed NORMANDY does fo near- ly refemble OLD ENGLAND, that we could fcarce believe our- felves to be in FRANCE. The better fort of people dwell chiefly in the cities and great towns, in houfes built with ftone; for which reafon in that part of NORMANDY through which we patted wefaw but very few gentlemen's feats. I come now to confider their churches, which for the moft part are very handfome edifices erected in the fhape of a crofs. They generally ftand eaft and weft, and are all built with ftone, of which there is great plenty in NORMANDY, efpeci- ally about CAEN, where are feveral quarries of excellent ftone which is greatly fought after, and conveyed from thence by water to feveral provinces of FRANCE (a) , the fteeple ufual- ly rifes from the centre of the fabric, being placed upon the interfedion of the crofs ; fome few fmall parochial churches excepted which confift of a nave only; in which cafe the fteeple is generally at the weft end. But this is not a general rule, for the fteeple of the church of MUIDS and that of GAILLON are on the fouth fide. The (a) It was alfo formerly brought from Caen to England, frequent mention of it being made by Stowe and other Writers. See Survey of London, edit. 1633, pages 31, 32, &c. See alfo Rot. Liter. Patent. Norman, de anno 6 H. 5 p. \ m . 22. De quarreris albee petrte infuburbio villa de Caen annexandis dominio Regis pro reparations Ealejtarufn, caftrorum, et fortallitiorum, tarn in Anglia quam in Normannia. See alfo Rat. Normanni