NEW GUIIXF. v?) PJGTU RE OF BRiS'fOI-, BXS^XTTIBS of Cia'STOMi .■■- vI.Sf.filPTiVi; ARHAi\(;CME.-iT 0£- EX.CrRSX05S 1^ TK}i!IR ViCINITfES;, 'IK TllRiR <.K()L(X;V', POTANY- "'IH^fl/^P* ''lit;, r; r '«;»;, > Lii>!> dutiqitu ■line '^(lirft.s 511',' Pinnaoli^s ii^io-ii lOVRTM KmXIOW. tV THE Ki:v JOHN EVAXr^, ir oCthi' PoiidciTr, and o,t' Ihc Uistory of Erisiai, .-■o<: .)v /-.M^r^s, Clifton; AtK;iiv,,M. . m u-Airr ef , Wci'. ,, !ird M!!»ik<'tt, (I'ue Fvo.vt;) B.-iafl-s-trrf ; - ililivar*', Jxhti iift't ; ?,ior£^:'n. JohB-«trset; Norton, Clm e-r -t ; Rf-fs, Wi-H>. ivrer-t; K.eid, t.om-street ; Roi?*?, Br.; 'iirii-«i!, S'l :n»"ie!!, ■■■■■:■■- r -:;• Tyson, Clare-si, : ai ' '■ ' ' •' MDCCCXXVIl! X '..^ > u ^\/. y y THE NEW GUIDE, OB PICTURE OF BRISTOL, WITH THE BEAUTIES of CI.IFTON: A DESCRIPTIVE ARRANGEMENT OF EXCURSIONS IN THEIR VICINITIES: ON THEIR GEOLOGY, BOTANY, &c. &c. ItLVSTRATED WITU A PLAN OF THE CITY, A MAP, 8^C. Urbs antiqua Dives opum. Like some renown'd Metropolis With glittering Spires and Pinnacles adorn'd. FOURTH EDITION. BY THE Rev. JOHN EVANS, AUTHOR OP THE PONDERER, AND OF THE HISTORV OF BRISTOL. BRISTOL: Sold by Aitkens, Clifton; Atkinson, Park-street; Davey and Muskett, (late Frost,) Broad-street ; Hilyard, John-street ; Hammet, Hotwells; Lancaster, Broad-street; Morgan, John- street; Norton, Clare-street; Rees, Wine-street; Reid, Corn- street ; Rose, Broadmead ; Tremlett, College-green ; Tyson, Clare-street ; and Williams, Park-street. MDCCCXXVIII. ADVERTISEMENT. THIS edition has been carefully revised, and will be found to contain much additional information, particularly in literary and curious anecdotes relative to the vicinity of the city, and a most important paper on Geology from the able pen of Mr. Cumberland. The author also owes his best acknowledgments to Mr. Miller, curator of the Bristol Philosophical Institution, and to Mr. Rootsey, for the valuable communications which enrich the appendix. Of the embellishments, it is sufficient to lemark, that the plan of the City, Clifton, and the Hotwells, is engraved by Mr. Hall, whose productions in this branch of art are emi- nently distinguished by their clearness, elegance, and beauty. The map of the country, twelve miles round the city, is found particularly convenient for reference ; and together, the plan and the map, furnish the stranger with a perspicuous guide to the several objects of curiosity and interest in the city and in its vicinity. In a word, neither labor nor expense has been spared to render this little work worthy of the ancient and opulent city it attempts to describe ; and still more deserving of the patronage with which this volume has hitherto been distinguished. nristol, July, 1828. P. Rose, Printer, Broadmead, Bristol. DA TO JHr* Eic!)atti g^mitl), SENIOR SURGEON TO THE BRISTOL INFIRMARY, WHOSE KIND COMMUNICATIONS ENRICH THE FOLLOWING DESCRIPTION OF A CITY, UPON WHICH HIS TALENTS CONFER DISTINGUISHED LUSTRE, THIS LITTLE WORK, IS AGAIN GRATEFULLY AND RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. CONTENTS. CHAP, PAGE. I. Sketch of the History of Bristol - - 1 II. Description of the Cathedral, with its prin- cipal Inscriptions - - - - - 12 III. Description of St. Mary Redcliffe Church, with its principal Monuments and Inscrip- IV tions - - - - - - - 22 Churches of Bristol - - - . 32 St. Thomas - - pag t;82 Temple - - - ib. St. Philip and Jacob - - - 33 St. Peter - - ~ ib. St. Mary-Ie-Port - - - ib. St. Nicholas - - - . 34 All Saints' . - - 36 Christ Church - . . 37 St. John - - - ib. St. VVerburgb - - - 38 St. Stephen - - - ib. St. Augustine . . - 43 St. Mark, or the Mayor's Ch apel - ib. St. Michael - - - - 42 St. James - - - ib. St. Paul . . . 43 Dissenting Places of Worsli JP - - - 44 CONTENTS. CHAP. • PAGE. VI. Public Buildings 48 Exchange . - _ - page 48 Commercial Rooms - - - ib. Merchants' Hall - - - - 50 Masonic Halls - - - - 5r Custom House _ _ _ - ib. Excise Office - - - - 52 Council House - - - - ib. Mansion House - - - - ib. Guildhall ib. Theatre 53 Assembly Room - - - - ib. Library - - - - ^ ib. Baptist Academy, Library, and Museum 55 Arcades - - . - - ib. VII. Public Schools, Charities, &c. - - 56 Grammar Schools - - - - 57 Colston's School - - - - ib. Red Maids' School - - - 58 Diocesan and National Schools - ib. Infirmary, History, &.c. - - - 59 Dispensary - - - - - 61 Dr. Kentish's Bath, &c. - - ib. Asylum and Penitentiary - - ib. Reynolds' Commemoration Society - 62 VIII. Miscellaneous Information - - - 64 Population, Commerce, Improvement in the Harbour, &.c. &c. - - 66 IX. Bluseums in Bristol - - - - 69 At the City Library - - - 69 Late Mr. Barnes - - - - 70 Mr. Clayfield - - - - ib. Mr. Johnson - - - - ib. Dr. Dyer 71 Mr. Smith, &c. &o. - - - • ib. Literary and Philosophical Institution 74 THE NEW GUIDE; OR, PICTURE OF BRISTOL. CHAPTER I. SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRISTOL. JL HE early periods of the history of cities, as well as of nations, are mostly enveloped in obscu- rity or disguised in fable. But because some degree of veneration has always been ascribed to the remains of ancient greatness, historians and topographers have generally endeavoured to give importance to their narrations, by connecting them with periods of remote antiquity. Of claims to an early origin, Bristol is certainly not destitute ; for it was founded, it is said, by Brennus, son of Malmutius, the first king of the Britons, three hundred and eighty years before the Christian era. The memory of Brennus, and his brother Bellinus, is preserved by two statues, which are affixed to the south-side of St John's tower, on the right and left of the gateway ; but by whom these statues were executed, or at what period they were erected, is uncertain, though it is probable they are of some antiquity. B 2 HISTORY. [new The original name of the city is said to have been Caer Oder Nante Badon; or, according to Lei and, Ncnite Avon, the city of Odera, in the valley of Avon. Antiquaries contend that modern Bristol is the same as the Venta-Belgarum of Ptolemy, and that it is mentioned in the catalogue of British cities given by Nennius, under the name of Caer Brito,* or the city Brito. From Brito the name became Brystoe, and Brightstowe, or the illustrious dwelling; Brigston, the city with a bridge; more recently, Bristow; and finally, Bristol. Before the Romans introduced the arts of civili- zation among the barbarians of Britain, they gave the denomination of towns to impenetrable for- ests. t Under the Romans, therefore, it is pro- bable that Bristol was either a rude fortress, or, if the seat of any commerce, merely the emporium for such commodities as were in demand among the Romans, in their encampments on Clifton and Leigh Downs. The original form of Bristol appears to have been circular : its principal streets, High-street with Broad-street, Wine-street with Corn-street, intersecting each other, appear to have constituted the diameters of the circle. J Its most ancient boundaries were St. John's gate and St. Nicholas' gate, on the north and south ; Defence gate, near Dolphin-street, and Baldwin's gate, near Baldwin- * See Appendix to Evans' Histor)' of Bristol, No. 1. f Oppidum autem Britanni vocantj quiim silvas impcditas vallo utqiie fossfi nuinierunt, quo, incursionishostiiim vitandas causa, convenire consueverunt. — Ctcsar. X In the centre of the city stood the celebrated High Cross, and around it were four churches —All-Saints', Christ- Church, St. Ewen's ; the name of the fourth is conjectured to have been St. Andrews. — Sea Evans' History of Bristol, Appendix, No. X. GUIDE.] HISTORY. 3 street, (through which and St. Stephen's-street was the ancient course of the Frome,) constituted the boundaries on the east and west. In addition to these, the wall contained St. Giles' gate and Tower gate ; the archway of the latter, and that of St. John's gate, are the principal remains of the ancient fortifications. Of the state of Bristol in the times of the Saxons and Danes, history is silent. It is first mentioned, according to Camden, in the decline of the Saxon government, in the year 1063, when Harold set sail from Bristow to invade Wales. In Doomsday- book, finished in 1086, Bristol is noticed thus : " Bristow, with Barton, an adjoining farm, paid to the king 110 marks of silver." From the death of the Conqueror, Bristol is principally indebted to its Castle for the notice it obtained from historians, in the periods immedi- ately succeeding. This fortress was very con- siderably enlarged and repaired, though probably not erected, by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, na- tural son of Henry I.* The period of its erection indeed is not determined ; but it must have been a place of some strength in the reign of William Rufus, if it be true that Godfrey, Bishop of Constance, and Robert de Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, made it the scene of a rebellion against that monarch. According to Camden, the Castle itself was scarcely finished in 1138, when it was besieged by Stephen ; but this may be * ^lla, to whom the poems ascribed to Rowley have given celebrity, is supposed to have been governor of this fortress as early as 920. In evidence of the existence of such a person as MUd, it has been urged, that the bridge leading from the city towards the castle was anciently called Ella's-IJridge, and a street adjoining w as denominated Ella's-Bridge-Street, now corrupted into Ellbroad -Street. 4 HISTORY. [new referred with greater probability to the additional buildings of Robert, since it was now a place of such strength, that the King was compelled to retire without effecting its reduction. Two years after this event, the King was defeated at Lincoln, and brought to Bristol Castle by order of the Empress Matilda; where he experienced all the rigours of captivity during nine months, till he was exchanged for the Earl of Gloucester, in 1141. To the care of the Earl, who is represented as excelling in every intellectual accomplishment* of that age, as well as in courage and prudence, the Empress Matilda committed the Prince, her son, afterwards Henry II. The tutor selected by the Earl was — Matthews, wdio was also preceptor to Robert Fitzharding, the founder of the Monas- tery of St. Augustine, the church of which is now the Cathedral. For Fitzharding the Prince formed a friendship which remained through life, equally uninterrupted by the cares as undiminished by the splendours of royalty; and this friendship laid the foundation of the future greatness of the family of Berkeley. Upon the accession of this Prince, under the title of Henry II. to the throne, he granted the city its lirst charter,t (which was afterwards confirmed by John,) J and gave to it the city of Dublin, to which a colony from Bristol was immediately transplanted. § * Tlie earliest impressions of Henry II. were taken from his uncle Robert, Earl of Gloucester, who, not only in learning, but in all other perfections, in magnanimity, valour, prudence, and all moral virtues, was the best exaniple that could be proposed to his imitation. Lord Lijtfhton's Life of Henry 11. f Barrett's History, pp. 73, and 063. X The Charters and Letters Patent of Bristol, by the Rev. S. Seyer, No. III. p. 3. § A copy of the grant may be found in Leland's History of Ireland, as also in Seyer's Bristol Charters, No. 2, p. 3. GUIDE.] HISTORY. 5 The City and Castle of Bristol having become a portion of the regal demesne, by the marriage of John, while Earl of Moreton, to Isabel, daugh- ter and heir of William, Earl of Gloucester, that monarch granted the city to the Burgesses, in fee-farm, at the yearly rent of £245; which pay- ment was made annually, till abolished by a charter of Henry III. who had received part of his educa- tion in the Castle. By this charter it was ordered that the City should be governed by a mayor, chosen in the same manner as in London, assisted by two prepositors, or sheriffs. In this reign, the city w^as enlarged by the erection of a bridge across the Avon,* to connect RedclifPand the city, with which, by a charter dated .July 29th, 12475t it had been incorporated. As Bristol originally constituted a part of the county of Gloucester, its representation was in- cluded within that of the county. In the reign of Edward I. Bristol sent distinct representatives; but these were returned by the sheriff of Glou- cestershire. Edward III. in 1373, to reward the eminent services his majesty had received from the citizens of Bristol, in their liberal supply of ships for his navy, and for a contribution of three hundred marks to supply the exigencies of his exchequer, granted the city all the immunities and privileges of a distinct and independent county. The boundaries were determined by thirty-six deputies, selected from Bristol, Somerset, and Gloucestershire, in an equal proportion. The * It is generally supposed that the Avon was, before this time, crossed by a ferry ; but i'roin a Charter of Henry II. it appears to have had a bridge as early as the reign of that monarch. Evans' History of Bristol, Vol. II. p. 203. t Bristol Charters, by Seyer, No. 5, p. 14. b2 6 HISTORY. [new proceedings of these deputies, as well as the charter,* were afterwards confirmed by the autho- rity of Parliament. When the house of York had triumphed over its rival, and in the person of Edward IV. had obtained possession of the English throne, that monarch visited Bristol in 1461, fcjr a purpose as ungenerous, as unjust and impolitic. The object of the visit was to insult a fallen adversary, and to take vengeance on its weakness. The victims on the occasion were- Bright and Hessant, Esqrs. together with Sir Baldwin Fulford. The King stood at the window of the ancient church of St. Evven, in Broad-street, while the procession moved towards the scaffold, that he might thus gratify the sanguinary disposition which seems natural to tyrants. This melancholy event fur- nishes the subject of one of the most pathetic and beautiful compositions attributed to Rowley, which bears for its title the denomination of the Bristowe Tragedie.t From the success of their commercial specula- tions, the citizens of Bristol appear to have early imbibed a spirit of enterprize, which prompted them to attempt to share in the honours of the discovery of a new world. For this purpose, they fitted out a squadron, in conjunction with the merchants of London, and under the patronage of Henry VII. the command of which was bestowed upon their fellow-citizen, the intrepid and illustri- * Bristol Charters, by Seyer, No. 11, p. 36. f Southey and Cottle's edition of Chalterton's Works, vol. II. p. 87. Tho fact of Edward's visit to Bristol, at this time, is ascertained by an entry in tiie churchwarden's book of accounts for this year, thus: " Item, for washy nge the church payven against K. Edward 4th is comyng to Brystow iiijd. ob." The circumstance is also corroborated by Stowe. GUIDE.] HISTORY. 7 ous Sebastian Cabot. The result of this expe- dition was the discovery of Newfoundland, and the whole coast of North America as far as Florida, which was seen by Cabot, the year before it was discovered by Columbus.^'? The voyage. of Cabot took place in 1497- In 1502, Elliot and Ashurst, Bristol merchants, obtained letters patent for em- barking in a voyage of discovery. Elliot v,as ranked among the most eminent navigators of his age, though it does not appear that he made any considerable additions to the discoveries of Cabot. It deserves, however, notice that Newfoundland was first colonized from Bristol, by John Guy, whose followers are represented to have been uni- formly persons of character and industry, and who consequently were the better qualified to encounter the difiiculties which are inseparable from the infant state of a colony.t Henry VII. held his court in Bristol, in the mansion which is now Colston's school. This monarch, in 1499, granted the city a new charter, by which its civil government was vested in six aldermen, a recorder, and forty common-council- men, in addition to the mayor and the two sheriffs. J This arrangement continued nearly a century, when the number of aldermen was increased to twelve, and the city divided into as many wards, by Elizabeth,! in 1581, who visited Bristol, and was received in the family-mansion of the Colstons, in Small-street ; which mansion is now the print- ing-oflice of the Bristol Mirror. * See Hackluyl's Voyages, and Lord Bacon's Life of Henry the Seventh. f Stowe's Chronicle, continued by Howes. X Charters, &c. No. 24, p. 122, and No. 27, p. 169. § Charters, &c. No. 24, p. 122, and No. 27, p. 169. 8 HISTORY. [new The Castle of Bristol, and its dependencies, continued to form a part of the county of Glou- cester, till the commencement of the reign of Charles I. when, in 1G30, it was separated from it, and made part of the city and county of Bristol. In the following year, the whole was purchased by the Corporation, for the sum of ^959, and a rent of £40 per annum ; which rent was after- wards purchased from the profligate and conse- quently necessitous Charles II. As Bristol had felt, very severely, the arbitrary and unconstitutional exactions--'' which were made by the minions of power under the sanction of the royal authority, it appears to have declared for the Parliament at the very commencement of the appeal to arras. Denzil Hollis distinguished him- self among his fellow-citizens, by an activity and zeal, which entitle him to particular notice : he immediately subscribed one thousand pounds to- wards defraying the expenses of the war,t and devoted his whole attention to discipline the mili- tia, with the command of which he was entrusted. The castle and the fortifications of the city were ordered to be repaired, and put in the best pos- sible state of defence; a fort was erected on Brandon Hill, and another on St. Michael's; the chief command was conferred on Colonel Fiennes ; and such was the strength of the works, that the city was too hastily deemed impregnable. Soon after the fortifications were completed, Prince Rupert appeared before the walls with an * These exactions, in one case, amounted tOofSOOO; and some of the principal citizens were imprisoned till the amount could be discharged. f Cities and Counties were assessed by the Parliament, in weekly payments: the assessment for Bristol was £b5. 15s. GUIDE.] HISTORY. 9 army of twenty thousand men, with which he im- mediately commenced an attack in six divisions. To oppose this force, Colonel Fiennes had only two thousand five hundred men, besides a regiment of horse ; and the extent of line to be defended was somewhat more than four miles. Some of the prince's divisions obtained possession of the city with the severe loss of nearly five hundred men, besides many valuable officers. The colonel then proposed to surrender the castle, on condition that the garrison and some of the citizens should be permitted to march out of the city without in- terruption.* To this stipulation Rupert assented ; and on the following day, July 27th, 1643, he was put in possession of the castle and fortifications. The city remained in possession of his majesty's forces during the following year; some part of which, the King held his court in Small-street, in the family-mansion of the benevolent Colston,t accompanied by the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York. After the royal forces had been defeated at Naseby, Prince Rupert considered that Bristol would be the most proper place he could select, to oppose the progress of the Par- liamentary Army. Upon his arrival, he found the garrison so strong, and so well supplied with am- munition and provisions, that in a letter to the King, he assures him it was capable of sustaining * The conduct of Fiennes, on this occasion, was severely censured, for having made a less vigorous defence, and having surrendered sooner than was consistent with tiie character of a soldier, and a man of courage. These censures received such credit, that he was brought to trial on a charge of cowardice, and sentenced to be beheaded, but afterwards obtained a pardon. See State Trials. f His Majesty's host at this time was the father of tho Philanliiropist. 10 HISTORY. [new a siege of four months. Fairfax and Cromwell arrived before the walls on the 21st of August, 1645 ; and preparations were made for commen- cing the siege with all the vigour of enthusiasm. Prince Rupert made several sallies, but was ge- nerally repulsed with considerable loss. At length it was determined, in a council of war, that a storm was advisable ; and directions were given to the army to hold themselves in readiness for that purpose by two o'clock on the morning of the 10th of Se})tember. Prodigies of valour were dis- played by the besiegers and besieged ; the city was fired in several places; and the besiegers had obtained possession of the important fort on St. Michael's Hill, when a trumpet was sent by the Prince to demaad a parley. The articles of capi- tulation vrere signed by seven in the evening ; in conformity to which, the garrison, and all the citizens, attached to the royal cause, marched from the city on the following day, with their arms and with military honours. The castle and the fortifications were immediately surrendered to the conquerors. The fall of Bristol was considered a fatal blow to the Royal cause, and an important acquisition to the Parliament. Cromwell, in his dispatches, when describing the taking of Bristol, says, in the language of the times, "that it was the work of the Lord, which none but an atheist could deny." Three years after this event, 1648, the Mayor, William Cann, Esq. proclaimed, " that there was no King in England, and that the suc- cessors of Charles I. were traitors to the state." He was the first Mayor who issued this unconsti- tutional proclamation, which had been refused by the Lord Mayor of London. The last Governor of Bristol Castle was Colo- GUIDE.] HISTORY. 1 1 nel Adrian Scroop, who was commanded by the Lord Protector to demolish the Castle, together with the other fortifications of the city. This order was put into execution in 1655, with so much rigour, that few traces of its massy walls remain ; and it would now be difficult to point out, with any degree of precision, the boundaries of this once famed fortress. From this period to the present, Bristol pre- sents few objects either to excite the curiosity, or interest the attention of the historian. In 1684, a new charter was granted to the City by Charles II; and, in IJIO, this charter was renewed and confirmed by Anne, as well as all its former charters, and several additional privileges were conferred upon the body corporate. Anne^ is the last regal visitant with which Bristol has been honoured, except her majesty queen Charlotte. In the lapse of the last century, the arts of civi- lization have been advancing in their silent but rapid progress. The spirit of improvement has been diffused throughout the empire, and of this spirit Bristol has imbibed no inconsiderable a pro- portion. The effects of it may be traced in every part of the city, but its operations have not yet ceased, and we feel confident that they will not, till every thing shall be effected which it is de- sirable to accomplish. * Queen Anne was entertained at a most superb house at the end of Bristol-bridge, now the site of Messrs. Pitt, Powell, and Fripp's Bank. It is also a curious fact, that she occupied the very room wherein the Court Martial was held by order of Fiennes, (8th May, 1643,) upon Sheriff's Bowsher and Yea- mans, for an altcmplt to deliver up the City to Prince Rupert. The history of the house is curious ; il devolved to a woman who kept a grocer's shop there many years, and was absolutely Lady Eleanor Rogers. This house was pulled down when the New Bridge was built. 12 CATHEDRAL. [NEW CHAPTER II. THE CATHEDRAL, AND ITS PRINCIPAL INSCRIPTIONS. T, HE Cathedral of Bristol is dedicated to the Holy and Undivided Trinity, and was originally the collegiate church of the monastery of St. Augustine, founded by Robert Fitzharding, a de- scendant of the kings of Denmark, and the remote ancestor of the noble family of Berkeley. The monastery itself was destroyed at the period of the dissolution of religious houses : the venerable gateway westward of the cathedral is all that now remains, either to preserve a specimen of its ar- chitecture, or to attest its former beauty and magnificence. The stranger who visits the cathedral should enter it from the cloisters, because by this means he will pass under the interesting specimen of Saxon architecture, which is the present entrance to College-square. The elegance of its finely curved arch, and the richness of its ornaments, cannot fail to excite his admiration ; and while he passes under this arch, he will not neglect to observe the pleasing effect produced by the inter- sections of the circular arches in the walls of each side. It will easily be perceived that these inter- sections form a pointed arch of the most exact proportions; and it is highly probable that, from observation of the effect thus produced, the pointed architecture of the cathedrals, derived its origin. From the cloisters the ascent into the cathedral is to the transept, nearly opposite the south aisle. The approach to the aisle excites an impression ABJtiKV Cat I-', [lOrvSK . |VlMvS'l'(;(. 14 CATHEDRAL. [nEW At a little distance from this tablet, a neat mural monument is erected to the memory of the Rev. Samuel Love, A. M. Fellow of Baliol Col- lege, Oxford, and one of the minor canons of this cathedral, who died October 18, 177^' aged 29. He is represented to have possessed considerable ' talents, which were joined to great moral worth and unaffected piety. The lines upon his monu- ment are from the pen of Mrs. H. More, and are entitled to high commendation for their simplicity and genuine pathos. When worthless grandeur decks tb' embellished urn, No poignant grief attends the sable bier; But when distingui.sh'd excellence we mourn. Deep is the sorrow, genuine tlie tear. Stranger ! shouldst thou approach this awful shrine, The merits of the honour'd dead to seek, The friend, the son, the Ciiristian, the divine. Let those who knew him, those who lov'd him, speak. Oh! let them, in some pause from anguish, say What zeal inspired, what faith enlarged his breast; How soon the unfetler'd spirit wing'd its way From Earth to Heaven, from blessing to be bless'd. This Monument is erected by some intiuiate friends of the deceased, as a testimony of his worth and their esteem. Nearly opposite, a mural monument bears the following merited and honourable inscription: To the memory of WILLIAM GORE, Esquire, . formerly Major in the XXXIIId Regiment of Foot, and engaged in active and honourable service during ten campaigns in America. In the revolutionary war with France, v/henthe lioyal Bristol Volunteers took up arms in MDCCXCVII. he was appointed Lieutenant-Colonel of that Regiment j and when it was revived after a short interval of peace, again unanimously elected to the same command in MDCCCIII. By his spirit and military knowledge he eminently contributed GUIDE.] CATHEDRAL. 15 to its high reputation for skill and discipline ; and having preserved it in harmony and order, until finally disbanded in MDCCCXIV amid the triumphs of our Country, he soon after closed an honourable life, respected and lamented. This Monument was erected at the joint expense of the whole Regiment, Officers, Non-commissioned Officers, and Privates, a public and unanimous testimony of esteem for his character, as a Soldier and a Gentleman. Above the tablet upon which this writing ap- pears, are a medallion and an urn, with two pri- vates, as supj)orters, in grenadier and light infan- try regimentals. On the urn is inscribed. Deceased July V. A. D. jMDCCCXIV. Aged LXIII. The medallion contains a likeness of the Colo- nel. In the head of the tablet on the left, are the arms of the city, motto, Vii^tute et inclustria ; .ot\ the right, the arms of the deceased, motto. Sola salits servire Deo. The choir is mostly occupied by the remains of bishops of the diocese. Near the entrance from the south aisle, three flat stones cover the graves of Bishops Conybeare, Butler, and Bradshaw ; the second grave from the entrance being consecrated by the ashes of Dr. Butler. In the north wall, adjoining the altar, are the tombs of Abbots Knowles and Newbery : the most ancient of these is that nearest the altar, which is erected in an arch over the grave of Abbot Knowles, who died in 1332, and may with great probability be regarded as the builder of the present cathedral. Below is the tomb of Abbot Newbery, who died in 1634; and opposite is a similar tomb, to the memory of Abbot Newland, who died in 1515. 16 CATHEDRAL. [nEW In the north aisle are several monuments which deserve attention, for their general style of exe- cution, for their inscriptions, which have been ad- mired for an elegance purely classical. Entering this aisle from the choir,-'^ and passing an ancient tomb on the right, (to the memory of Bishop Bush, who died in 1558,) a superb mural monument claims immediate notice, bearing a Latin inscription, of which the following is a translation :t Under this Monument is interred THOMAS COSTER, Esq. Who was equally illustrious For bis private as for his |)ublic virtues: In friendship he was iirm and aHectionate, And emineutly distinguished by an active benevolence towards man, And an ardent piety towards God. His genius was displayed In the acquisition of various sciences ; But in those of mechanics and metallurgy He peculiarly excelled. He obtained wealth by industry, And honour by unsullied integrity; Being advanced, without ambition or envy, to the dignity of Representative Of the Citizens of Bristol in Parliament, He discharged his duty with undcvialing fidelity, For the mutual advantage of his constituents And the Empire. He was born on the 20th of December, 1 684, And died on the 30lh of Septemper, 1739, Deeply lamented and unfeignedly regretted By all to whom he was known ; Particularly by her who, in gratitude To the best of parents. Caused this monument to be erected, * The entrance is now closed. f Behind and on each side of Coster's monument is the beautiful gothic work just discovered, much mutilated to make room for the monument. GUIDE.] CATHEDRAL. 17 That the memory of his eminent virtues might be lasting, To excite the emulation and secure the happiness Of the most distant posterity.* Next to the tablet inscribed with the name of Towgood, is an elegant monument " to the me- mory of William Powell, Esq. one of the paten- tees of the Theatre Royal, Covent Garden, who died 3rd July, 1/69, aged 33 years. His widow caused this monument to be erected, as well to perpetuate his memory as her own irreparable loss of the best of husbands." The following lines are the production of George Colman, Esq. the elder: Bristol, to worth and genius ever just! To thee our Powell's dear remains we trust. Soft as tlie streams tliy sacred springs impart. The milk of human kindness warm'd his heart j That lieart which every tender feeling knew. The soil where pity, love, and friendship grew. Oh ! let the faithful friend, with grief sincere. Inscribe his tomb, and drop a heartfelt tear. Here rest his praise, here I'ound his noblest fame • All else a bubble, or an empty name. Opposite are the incomparable lines of the au- thor of Elfrida: their acknowledged excellence has procured them a notoriety which might preclude the necessity of a transcription, but these lines contain beauties which no repetition can exhaust. The monument is inscribed to " Mary, the daugh- ter of William Shermon, of Kingston-upon-Hull, Esq. and wife of the Rev. William Mason, who died March 24, I767, aged 28." * It deserves remark, that the painted glass window above this monument is said to have been presented to the Cathedral by the celebrated Nell Gwyn. c2 18 CATHEDRAL. NEW] Take, Holy Earth! all that my soul holds dear, Take that best gift, which Heaven so lately gave : To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care Her faded form ; she bowed to taste the wave, And died. Does Youth, does Beauty read the line? Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm? Speak, dead Maria I breathe a strain divine; Even from the grave thou shalt have power to charm : Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee, Bid them in dutj's sphere as meekly move; And if so fair, from vanity as free, As firm in friendship, and as fond in love. Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die, ('Twas even to thee,) yet, the dread path once trod, Heav'n lii'is its everlasting portals high, And bids " the pure in heart behold their God." On the left of the transept, entering from the College-Green, are steps conducting to the Elder Lady's chapel, in which is the tomb of Fitzharding, the founder of the monastery. Between the steps of this chapel and the entrance, a cross and skull cover the grave of Abbot Cook, who died in 1366. On the right, against the west wall, are several elegant monuments, of which the first particularly worthy of notice, is one raised to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Draper, the Eliza of Sterne. Its form is that of a pointed or gothic arch, within which are two figures, which may be pronounced to be good specimens of the productions of genius in this department of art, for they are in the best manner of their sculptor. Bacon, and will be a lasting testimony of his ability. The figure on the left represents Genius ; that on the right. Bene- volence, which points to the following inscription upon the pedestal : Sacred to the Memory of Mrs. ELIZABETH DRAPER; in whom GUIDE.] CATHEDRAL. 19 Genius and Benevolence were united. She died August 3, 1788, Aged 35. On one of the columns on the right of the extremity of the centre aisle, but facing the transept, an elegant nionument is erected to the memory of Anthony Augustus Henderson. The following description of this monument, and translation of its inscriptions, are by the late Anthony Henderson, Esq. M. P. who died soon after its completion. " The upper compartment of the monument represents a parent kneeling at the tomb of his son. On the tomb is a Latin inscription ; in English as follows : Sacred to the Memory of A. A. HE^DEU^!;ON, A most amiable youth, A most afl'ectionate son. " The countenance of the parent is intended to express pious resignation, under the severe afflic- tion of the death of his son, which he derives from that passage of the Gospel of St. John, (the Greek version of which he holds in his hand, and is supposed to have been reading,) where Christ says, ' The dead that are in their graves shall hear my voice, and shall come forth ; they that have done good unto the resurrection of life.^ The words in italics are inscribed in the Greek lan- guage. " On the tablet in the compartment below is a Latin inscription, which, in English, is in sub- stance as follows : 20 CATHEDRAL. [nEW In a ^rave close to the altar of this cathedral, The mortal part of ANTHONY AUGUSTUS, Son of Anthoiiy Henderson, Esq. M. P, And Sophia, his wife, is deposited. That his immortal part now lives in Heaven, Is the firm belief of his Parents. He died in the year of our Lord 1807, in the 17th year of his age. He was free from vice, of great fortitude, and exceedingly attached to his Patents. He was distinguished lor his understanding, gentleness of manners, modesty, and kindness. What limit can there be to grief for the loss of so dear a Son ? The hope which religion affords, that they may also be counted worthy, Through the Grace of an almighty and merciful God, To be numbered hereafter among the blessed in Heaven, There to enjoy for ever the company of their Sou, Is to his Parents the sweet soother of their sorrows." Near the termination of the transept, an elegant mural monument is erected to the memory of Catherine, vA'ife of James Vernon, jun. of Lincoln'^s Inn, Esq. who died June 3, 1794, aged 19. The inscription is marked by a felicity of expression, and an elegance of sentiment, which well deserve to be transcribed. Formed by Nature To attract admiration and to invite respect, Lovely in her person, graceful in her manners, Amiable in her disposition, Happy to receive pleasure, and more happy to impart it . Every one was conscious of her merits, But herself. The disease to which she fell a victim. Added lustre to the virtues of her mind: And the submissive piety which prepared her way To Heaven, Taught the duty of resignation To her afflicted husband. Before we quit the Cathedral, we must not neglect to notice, that in the chancel was buried Nathaniel Foster, D. D. a name peculiarly dear GUIDE.] CATHEDRAL. 21 to piety and biblical literature. His edition of the Hebrew Bible, divested of points, will be a lasting monument of critical ability and learned investigation, as well as highly honourable to the literary character of his native country. Foster was born in 1717? ^^ studied at Eton, and after- wards at Pembroke College, Oxford. His appli- cation was intense, and his erudition profound. In a knowledge of the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew languages, he was considered to be equal, if not superior, to anj?^ of the age in which he lived. He enjoyed the friendship of Seeker and of Butler, and obtained the public approbation of Warburton and of Bryant. His career, however, was ab- ruptly terminated, just as he had obtained the maturity of his powers ; for he fell a victim to disease in the 41st year of his age, at the close of 1757. The bishopric of Bristol is one of the least wealthy ecclesiastical promotions which confers the dignity of a mitre ; but in the list of the bishops will be found some of the most distin- guished divines of the national church, and some of the most eminent names in the republic of letters. Among them are Seeker, Butler, and Newton ; whose productions have procured them an extended reputation, and whose fame will be commensurate with the durability of the language which their works have enriched, and in which their fame has been recorded. 22 REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. NEW] CHAPTER III. REDCLIFFE-CHURCH, AND ITS PRINCIPAL MONUMENTS AND INSCRIPTIONS. N. O Church in Bristol, perhaps none in the kingdom, has a greater claim to the attention of the topographer and the historian, than that of SL Mary Redrliffe. Its antiquity, the beauty of its architecture, and the intereyting circumstances connected with its history, entitle it to particular notice. But Redcliffe-Church is also associated with the enterprises of genius ; for its name has been blended with the reputation of Rowley, of Canynge, and of Chatterton. It is therefore always visited with enthusiasm by the lover of poetry and the admirer of art ; and when the interesting fabric has mouldered into ruins, even those will be trodden with veneration, as sacred to the recollection of genius. Redcliffe-Church has consequently been the subject of no ordinary degree of attention. Its history has exercised the ability of men of letters, and its architectural beauties have employed the skill of some of the most eminent in the arts. " Radcliff," says Camden,^ " a little suburb, was joined to the city by a stone-bridge, so thick set with houses, that it seemed a street rather * Gougli's edition of Camden's Britannia, vol. I. p. 63, edit. 1791. GUIDE.] REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. 23 than a bridge. This part is inclosed within the walls, and the inhabitants are free of the city." He immediately adds, " Among the fairest of churches, is St. Mary de RedclifFe, without the walls, with a great ascent of steps ; the whole so spacious and well built, with an arched roof of stone, and a lofty steeple, as to exceed, in my opinion, all the parish-churches of England that I have seen." Leland says, that " St. Sprite's Chapel, in Redclef church-yard, was ons a paroche afore the building of Radclyfe new church.^'?" And William of Worcester, who was a native of Bristol, and lived in the time of Henry VI. calls St. Sprite's " an ancient chapel, near Redcliffe Church." It appears very certain, that an ancient religious edifice was standing on or near the site of the present church, anterior to the erection of the present building. The foundation of the Great Church, erected on the site of this, is ascribed by all parties to Simon de Burton,t who, previous to the com- mencement of the building, in 1292, had been advanced to the mayoralty of Bristol three times, and enjoyed that dignity twice afterwards, viz. in the years 1304 and 1305. t It appears that William Canynge, senior, the Mayor of Bristol, " completed the body of Redcliffe Church from the cross aisle downwards, and so the church was * Itinerary, vol. vii. p. 86. Barrett supposes that St. Sprite's Chapel was also called " Lamyngton's Lady Chapel." f Leland, though he mentions Burton as founder of an alms- house, in which he was buried, does not allude to his founda- tion of the present church. + MS. in Bib. Bodl. " History of the famous City of Bris- tol, by James Stewart." 24 REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. [NEW finished as it now is ;"* and as this was seventy- five years after the dedication of Burton's church, it may be considered to be the finishing of what hud been begun and partly accomplislied by its founder. It was customary, at that time, for the builder of a church to begin at the east end, or choir-part ; which, when finished, was conse- crated, and the remainder was gradually pro- secuted, either by the original projector or his immediate successors. A manuscript in the Bodleian Library informs us that " the said church having suffered much in a tempest, the above-mentioned William Canynge, a celebrated merchant and public benefactor, in the year 1474,t gave five hundred pounds to the parishioners of Redcliffe, towards repairing the church, and for the maintenance of two chaplains, and two clerks in St. Mary's Chapel there, and of two chantry priests." The words of Barrett are, " the same plan was observed by him in rebuilding and restoring to its original beauty, after being thrown down by lightning. The south aisle, where the mischief fell heaviest, seems to have been rebuilt with a somewhat more elevated arch, and in a lighter style than the north ; a difference also exists between the windows of the north and south aisle. "J The superstructure of the whole church displays three distinct and different eras of architecture. The middle north porch is certainly the oldest portion ; and this corresponds, in its pilaster columns, arches, and mouldings, with the build- ings of the thirteenth century. At this age it * Barrett, Hist. p. 569. f In Barrett it is dated 1445. t Hist. Bristol, p. 571. GUIDE.] REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. 25 appears that Simon de Burton lived, and was engaged, in 1292, either in constructing a new church or "re-edifying" a former building. Here then we find a part of the edifice (though certainly only a very small part) correspond with a specific date. Of a subsequent age and style are the tower and grand northern porch, in both of which we recog- nise a later species of architecture ; while the tracery of the ceilings, the niches, and numerous mouldings, are of much more enriched and ela- borate characters than the former specimens. These parts were probably raised, in the reign of Edward III. by William Canynge, senior.* In the finishing of the nave, choir, and tran- septs, we must look for the works of William Canynge, junior, the rich merchant of Bristol, and dean of Westbury ; but here the style is not so strictly in unison with the era. Still, however, we must contemplate the greater part of the church as the workmanship of his time. A more decorated species of architectural design is shown in the entrance door-way to the vestry, and also in Sir Thomas Mede's monument in the north aisle, the latter of which was probably raised about the year 1486. Near the south-west angle of the church is a large stone coffin, with a statue in demi-relief on the lid, and beneath it two words in old charac- ters, which Barrett reads, "Joannes Eamijngton." This coffin was placed here in 1766, having been discovered under the west window of St. Sprite's chapel, which formerly stood close to the church, and was demolished at that period. Upon first »Hc is recorded member of Bristol in the years 1364 and 1384. Barrett's Historj, p. 151. D 26 REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. [NEW opening the coffin, the solid parts of the body re- tained their natural position in a perfect manner ; but on being touched, they immediately crumbled to dust. John Lamyngton is mentioned in Bar- rett's list of vicars, as having been chaplain of this church in 1393. Near the western entrance is a flat stone with a cross, and two words upon it, which are almost obliterated. Several fragments of other flat grave- stones, with defaced inscriptions, constitute part of the pavement of the western end of the church, some of them, apparently, of more ancient date than any part of the present edifice. At the southern extremity of the transept are several monuments of peculiar interest; of which the first is a plain altar-tomb, supporting the re- cumbent figure of a man in sacerdotal robes, with a large scrip, or pocket, attached to the left side. An angel is placed at his head, and a dog, with a large bone in his paws, at his feet. There is no inscription upon it, to mark decidedly the person to whose memory this monument has been erected. Mr. Cole states it to be a third tomb of William Canynge ; tradition, however, assigns it to his purse-bearer. Under a large canopy, beneath the centre win- dow, is an altar-tomb of stone, supporting the recumbent effigies of a man and a woman. The first is dressed in mayor's robes, and the second according to the fashion of the times. The in- scription on the back of this tomb is as follows : " WILLM CANNINGS, ye richest merchant of ye town of of Bristow, afterwards chosen 5 times Mayor of je said towne, for the good of the Commonwealth of the same: he was in order of priesthood 7 years, and afterwards Dean of Westbury, and died the 7th Novem. 1474, which said William did build, within the said town of Westbury, a college (with his canons,) GUIDE.] RECCLIFFE-CHDRCH. 27 and the said William did maintain by space of 8 years, 800 hand3'craflsmen, besides carpenters and masons, every day 100 men. Besides, King Edward the IVth had of the said William, 3000 marks for his Peace to be had in 2470 tons of shipping-. "These are the names of his shipping and their burthens: —The Mary Canynges, 400 tons; The Mary & John, 900; TheKathrinc, 140; The little Nicholas, 140 ; The Katharine of Boston, 220; The Mary Redcliff, 500; The Galliot, 500; Mary Batt,220; The Margaret, 200; A Ship in Ireland, 100. " No age, no time, can wear out well-won fame. The stones themselves a stately work doth shew, From senseless grave we ground may men's good name. And noble minds by ventrous deeds we know. A lanterne clere setts forth a candele light: A worthy act declares a worthy wight ; The buildings rare, that here you may behold. To shrine his bones deserve a tomb of gold. The famous fabricke, which he here hath donne, Shines in its sphere as glorious as the Sunne; What needs more words, the future world he sought. And set the pomp and pride of this at naught: Heaven was his aim, let Heaven still be his station. That leaves such work for others immitation." Near this is an altar-tomb, on which lies the effigy of a man in priest's robes. The head is shaven, and the hands are raised, as if in the act of devotion. This monument is commonly- ascribed to William Canynge, as Dean of West- bmy. The head, however, is very different to that on the other tomb ; and both have the ap- pearance of being portraits. This presents a very extraordinary face : a long acquiline nose, a narrow projecting chin, high cheek-bones, and very thin cheeks, combine to produce a very singular countenance. At the feet of this statue is the small figure of a man apparently in great bodily agony, which is a very unusual occur- rence. A Latin inscription, on a loose board, is sometimes attached to this tomb. This inscrip- 28 REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. [NEW tion assigns the tomb to Canynge, but as it is sometimes attaclied to the monument last des- cribed, as well as this, it cannot be considered of any authority. Affixed to a column nearly opposite the tomb of Canynge and his lady, is a neat monument, with a Latin inscription, to the Memory of Maria, the Wife of William Barrett, F. S. A. and author of " The History and Antiquities of Bristol." Mr. Barrett was a man of some learning, and of considerable research, who devoted the leisure of twenty years of his life to the collecting of ma- terials for the History of Bristol. Every facility seems to have been afforded to his inquiries, both by public bodies and by individuals ; and the mass of materials which he collected was not only immense, but highly valuable. From these causes. Mr. Barrett's History is a rich assemblage of important documents to the lover of Bristol topography or of antiquaiian research ; but it must be confessed, that its style and arrangement produced disappointment upon its publication, and will always prevent it from becoming a favourite volume with the general reader. Many of the papers which Mr. Barrett had collected were left to Mr. Gapper ; those relating to Chatterton were disposed of to the Rev. Mr. Kerrich, of Cambridge, for Dr. Glynn, and were afterwards deposited in the British Museum. Sir John Smyth, of Long Ashton, purchased some MSS. at the sale of Mr. Barrett's effects. At the eastern end of the north aisle is a very handsome monument, consisting of an altar-tomb, surmounted by a richly ornamented canopy. Recumbent on the former are effigies of the deceased and his wife, with their heads resting GUIDE.] REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. 29 on cushions, and having two figures of angels supporting the pillow. The plinth of the tomb, as well as the back and sides, is covered with pannelling and tracery. Immediately over the tomb, are five crocketed canopies, with pinnacles, &c. and the whole is surmounted with a richly sculptured frieze and parapet. From the imperfect inscription which still remains, it appears that this monument is dedicated to the memory of Thomas Mede, who was sheriff of Bristol in 1452, and subsequently thrice mayor of that city. He had a country-seat at Nayland, then called Mede's Place, in the parish of Wraxall and county of Somerset. Attached to the former monument, and of the same style and character, but without any effigy, is another, to the memory of Philip Mede, the brother of Thomas Mede, whose monument has just been described. He appears to have been several times mayor of Bristol, and to have rep- resented the city in two parliaments, held at Coventry and Westminster, in the thirty-eighth year of the reign of Henry the Sixth. His will is dated Jan. 11th, 1471, and directs his body to be buried at the altar of St. Stephen, in RedcliflFe- Church. A small marble slab, at the north-east angle of the transept, is inscribed with the following lines from the pen of Mrs. H. More. " Near this pillar aro deposited the remains of Mrs. FOR- TUNE LITTLE, widow of Mr. John Little, late of this parish. She died June 28, 1777. Aged 57. Oh ! could this verse her hright example spread. And teach the living, while it prais'd the dead ; Then, reader ! should it speak her hope divine, Not to record her faith, but strengthen thine ; D 2 30 REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. [nEW Then slionld her every virtue stand confess'd, 'Till every virtue kindled in thy breast. But iCtliou slight the inunitory strain, And she has lived, lu thee at least, in vain, Yet let her death an awl'ul lesson give • The «lying Christian speaks tu all that live. Enough lor her that here her ashes rest, 'Till God's own plaudit shall her worth attest. Hannau More." The Rev. Thomas Broughton was buried in the north aisle of this church, in December, 1774- He was born in London, July, 1704. Bishop Sherlock presented him with the living and ])rebendship of Bedminster and Redcliffe. He was one of the original writers in the Biograpliia Britannica, the autl)or of a musical drama, entitled, "Hercules," and the Compiler of a Dictionary of all Religions. A plain marble tablet is erected to his memory, in the chancel, near the altar. Attached to a column in the south transept is a flat slab, with a long inscription, from which we learn that it conimemorates Sir William Penn, father of the illustrious founder of Pennsylvania. The column itself is adorned with banners and with armour. At the east end, over the altar, are three large pictures^ by Hogarth, representing the following sacred subjects, viz. — 1. The Ascension of Christ. — 2. The High Priest and Servants sealing the Tomb. — 3. The Three Marys at the Sepulchre. These pictures, as specimens of colouring, possess much merit, and may be viewed with advantage by the young artist. Immediately over *Tbese were hung up in the church in the year 17o7, and are said to have cost .500 guineas, besides the iramcs. The lofty eastern window is closed uj), lor the purpose of hanging the largest ol these paintings. GUIDE.] REDCLIFFE-CHURCH. 31 the altar-table is a painting representing Jesits restoring to Life the daughter of Jairus, by Tresham, R. A. presented in 1792 to the church by the painter's uncle, Sir Clilton Wintringham, Bart. In what was formerly the muniment-room, over the north porch, still remain the fragments of nine (-bests, of various shapes and sizes, from which the manuscripts attributed to Rowley are said to have been taken by Chatterton's father. One of them in particular was said to be called Mr. Canynge's cojfre,'!^- and secured by six keys, two of which were entrusted to the minister and procurator of the church, two to the mayor, and one to each of the churchwardens. In process of time, the six keys appear to have been lost ; and about the year I727 a notion prevailed that some title-deeds, and other writings of value, were contained in Mr. Canynge's coffer. In consequence of this opinion, an order of vestry was made that the chest should be opened under the inspection of an attorney, and that those writings which appeared of consequence should be removed to the south porch of the church. The locks were therefore forced, and not only the principal chest, but the others, which were also supposed to contain writings, were all broken open. The deeds relating to the church were removed, and the other manuscripts left exposed, as of no value. Considerable depredations were committed upon them by different persons ; but * When rents were received and kept in specie, it was usual for corporate bodies to keep the writings and rents ei' estates left for parlicubir |)nrposes, in chests appropriated to each particular benefactor, and called by the benefactor's name. Several old chests of this kind are still existing in the Univer- sity of Cambridge. 32 TEMPLE-CHURCH. [nEW the most insatiate of the plunderers was the father of Chatterton. His uncle being sexton of St. Mary Redcliffe, gave him free access to the church. He carried off, from time to time, par- cels of the parchment, which were deposited in a cupboard in the school, and employed for the covering of copy-books and other purposes. At his death, his widow carried the remainder to her own habitation. For an account of the dis- covery of their value as related by Chatterton, we refer the reader to Messrs. Southey and Cottle's edition of ' The Works of Thomas Chatterton.' CHAPTER IV. THE OTHER CHURCHES IN BRISTOL ARRANGED ACCORDING TO THEIR PROXIMITY TO EACH OTHER. S' 'T. Thomas' Church was rebuilt in 1793. It is, in strict propriety, only a chapel of ease to Redcliffe, as Redcliffe itself is to Bedminster. The interior is a handsome modern structure ; and, contemplated as a whole, produces a pleas- ing impression upon the spectator. Temple Church derives its name from the society of Knights Templars, by whom it was erected. The members of this society possessed large estates in the vicinity of Bristol, and appear to have built this church from their revenues as early as 1145. It is entitled to observation from its antiquity and the several monuments, as well ancient as modern, which it contains. GUIDE.] SAINT MARY-LE-PORT CHURCH. 33 The tower of Temple is an object deserving attention, in consequence of its inclination, which was ascertained, in 17/2, to be three feet nine inches from a perpendicular. This inclination has existed from time immemorial, and is men- tioned bv Brunius, an author who flourished in 1576. The church dedicated to Saint Philip and Jacob, near Old Market-street, is an ancient structure, being mentioned as a parish-church so early as 1200. Its antiquity, therefore, entitles it to notice, though its monuments are few, and few interesting circumstances are connected with its history. Saint Peter's Church, situated in St. Peter- street, is an ancient structure, having been found- ed before the Norman conquest. It has been frecjuently repaired, and in 1795, was nearly re- built. The church contains a few monuments, exhibiting good specimens of monumental archi- tecture between the twelfth and sixteenth cen- turies. In the churchyard were deposited the remains of Richard Savage, whose misfortunes, indiscretions, and talents, exhibited to the world in all the captivating graces of Johnsonian biogra- phy, have conferred upon him a celebrity which genius of the highest order has sometimes failed of obtaining. It is a subject of notoriety, that Savage died in prison, and was buried at the ex- pense of the keeper, the humane and benevolent Mr. Dagg; but no monumental inscription has preserved the spot from oblivion. Saint Mary-le-Port, or Mary-Port Church, was founded by Robert, Earl of (Gloucester, about 1170, and derived the name from its proximity to that part of the port in which vessels anciently 34 SAINT NICHOLAS CHURCH. [NEW discharged their cargoes. It would appear that originally no buildings intervened between the church and the river. This church contains few objects of interest or curiosity, if we except the brazen eaglet^ which in 1802 excited so much of the public attention. The eagle weighs 6921bs. and had stood in the cathedral 119 years, when it was ordered to be sold as old brass ; but it was rescued from the hands of the brazier by a private citizen ; who after having advertised the eagle for sale by auction, on condition of its being placed in a church, or restored to the cathedral, presented it to the vestry of St. Mary- Port, with an inscrip- tion recording its history, and directing it to remain there for ever. Saint Nicholas Church was erected in 1/68. Old Saint Nicholas constituted one of the bounda- ries of the city, and was probably of great antiquity. The entrance into the city, after passing the old bridge, was under an arch, upon which was the chancel of the church. The exterior of this church is characterized by an elegant simplicity, and it produces an interesting efiect, though entirely destitute of ornaments. Near the west entrance, in an arch under the tower, is the monument of Alderman Whitson, who raised himself from an obscure station to opulence and distinction. He was twice mayor, and represented the city in several parliaments during the reigns of James and Charles I. He composed a little treatise, entitled, " The Aged Christian's final Farewell to the World and its Vanities," which has passed through several edi- tions, and is strongly marked by good sense and unaffected piety, without any tincture of the fana- ticism of the age in which he lived. His piety GUIDE.] . SAINT NICHOLAS CHURCH. 35 was combined with active benevolence ; and at • his death, which took place in 1629, in the 72d year of his age, he bequeathed his fortune to cha- ritable purposes. In testimony of respect for his virtues, the body corporate ordered his monument to be removed from the crypt, or croud, to its present situation, at the expense of the chamber. Recently the old monument has been replaced by the present chaste and beautiful specimen of monumental architecture, which is equally honour- able to the taste, and to the munificence of those by whom it has been erected. The antiquarian will be particularly gratified by a visit to the crypt, which is in fact a part of the ancient church: this part has been recently re- stored, and in it is placed the following honourable and well merited inscription: — THIS CRYPT Is iraditionally an ancient Cemetery of the original Church of Saint Nicholas, which was founded in the reign of Canute the Great, about the year of Our Lord 1030; It appears to have been repaired and beautified during the reign of Edward III. in the year 1361; A Head of his Queen Philippa being still perfect in the kev-stone of the first groin in the South Aisle: It was afterwards ' used by the Fraternity of The Holy Ghost as a Chapel, in the year 1303, And was religiously preserved, when the ancient Church was taiten down and rebuilt, in the year 1768: So long a period of Time having injured some of the Arches, the foundations were carefully examined, and repaired, 36 all-saints' church. [new and the whole Building was restored to its orJEjinal strength & beauty, in the year of Our Lord 18^23, Under the immediate superintendance, of Mr. JACOB WILLIAM ATTWOOD, One of the Church-M ardens ; To record whose indefatig-able zeal in tlie prosecution of so laudable a work, The Rev. John Edev, B. I). Vicar, And the other Members of the Vestry HAVE CAUSED THIS TABLET TO JBE ERECTED, In regard to antiquity or interest, it is probable that All-Saints' takes precedence of all the churches of Bristol. It is one of the four ancient churches which surrounded the High Cross, and in consequence of thus constituting an important object in the original plan of the city, must be ascribed to a period of remote antiquity. Its association is combined with pleasing recollec- tions, because in this church was held the Society of the Kalendaries, which is by far the most in- teresting establishment connected with the early history of Bristol ; and in this church, and connect- ed with this society, was one of the earliest public libraries in England, of which any record has been preserved. The monuments of All-Saints' deserving par- ticular notice are few ; of which, that to the memory of our philanthropist Colston is the prin- cipal. The statue of this truly illustrious charac- ter was executed by Rysbrach, from a portrait by Richardson, and is in the best manner of that celebrated sculptor. Rysbrach has ingeniously contrived a drapery for his figure; and yet has arrayed it in the costume which was usually worn by the individual whose resemblance it is designed GUIDE.] ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. 37 to perpetuate. It is thus that the productions of the chisel may become monuments of historical reference, and may be rendered the means of pre- serving from oblivion the fugitive fashions of past ages. This monument is in the usual style of that species of architecture, and the tablet contains an enumeration of the charities of this ornament to his native city and disinterested benefactor of the human race. Colston spent upwards of £70,000 in acts of benevolence ; and has merited the gra- titude of thousands, who are indebted to him for having been rescued from the complicated evils of ignorance, vice, and misery. Christ Church is erected upon the site of an ancient church which was originally dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The Society of the Kalen- daries was held in this church from its institution, which is affirmed by Worcester to have been prior to the Norman conquest, till it was removed to xA.ll-Saints', by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, and Robert Fitzharding. The fact is also mentioned by Leland, in the seventh volume of the Itinerary. Old Christ-Church was taken down in I786, and the present structure finished in 1790. This church has been admired for its neatness, and the steeple is certainly a beautiful elevation. Its heighth, together with the tower, is 160 feet; and from its situation, in the centre of the city, is cal- culated to produce a pleasing effect. The Church of St. John the Baptist will be visited by the antiquary from a regard to its tower and arch, which, with the exception of tower-gate, are the principal remains of the ancient fortifica- tions of the city. The arch is pointed, or gothic, and the tower is erected upon it. On the west of E 38 ST. STEPHEN'S CHURCH. [nEW this tower stood an ancient church, dedicated to Saint Leonard, which was demolished, and the parish incorporated with St. John, so early as 1580. Saint Werburgh's Church, in Corn-street, was dedicated to Saint Werburga, the supposed daughter of Wulferus, king of Mercia, who is represented to have flourished in the seventh century. The present structure was finished in I76I. Its principal monument is one to the memory of Nicholas Tliorne, founder of the city grammar-school, where his portrait is preserved, and that of his brother Robert. From a Latin inscription on his monument, we learn that he was a native of Bristol, a merchant of considerable eminence, and of undeviating integrity ; that the actions of his life were prompted by benevolence, and guided by virtue ; and that he terminated a career, marked by honourable, because beneficent, activity, unfeignedly and universally lamented, in 1546, in the 50th year of his age. Among the other churches of Bristol, that dedicated to Saint Stephen seems entitled to particular notice, from the beauty of its tower, which has obtained for it such a degree of admi- ration, as to render it an object of curiosity. Camden styles it " a stately tower of curious workmanship ;" and adds, that " it was erected, in the memory of our grandfathers, by one Ship- ward." Of the man to whom we are indebted for this elegant specimen of taste in architecture, little more is known than that it was John Shipward, who was the cotemporary, and probably the friend of Canyngs ; that he was a merchant of the first respectability in the age in which he flou- GUIDE.] ST. STEPHEN'S CHURCH. 39 rished; that he was a liberal benefactor to the indigent whilst he lived, and that at his death he bequeathed large estates to charitable purposes. He died in 1473, and was buried in the church of St. Stephen. The heighth of St. Stephen's tower is about 120 feet; it is ornamented from the ground in the pointed style, with exquisite taste, and terminates with four pinnacles beautifully embellished, and producing a pleasing effect from their lightness and tasteful proportions. These pinnacles are connected with each other, and with the tower, by a battlement, ornamented in the same style as the tower itself. This church originally belonged to the Abbots of Glastonbury, but at present the patronage of the living is vested in the Crown. The period in which it was erected has not been recorded, but it is known that the tower was built in 14/0. Among the objects of the interior, the subject of the altar is impressive, whatever may be said of its execution. It was painted by Mr. Ross, of Bath; the subject is, "Angels raising a veil, to discover the glory of the future world." Of the monuments, the principal is one to the memory of Sir George Snigge, Knight, serjeant- at-law, and one of the barons of the exchequer. Sir George was a native of Bristol, many years its recorder: as a judge, he was celebrated for the extent of his legal, knowledge, and for strict impartiality; and as a man, greatly eminent for the exercise of an unbounded benevolence. Sir George died in IGI7, in the /Sd year of his age. It may alford some gratification to the stranger who visits Saint Stephen's Church, to know that the liberal and learned Dr. Tucker, afterwards 40 ST. mark's church. [new Dean of Gloucester, was rector of this parish during several years. The Church of Saint Augustine the Less, near the Cathedral, was founded by the Abbots of Saint Augustine's monastery. It is of con- siderable antiquity, and was nearly rebuilt in 1480. This church has been frequently repaired and considerably enlarged ; it contains a few monuments worth visiting; among which is one to the memory of Mr. Shiercliff, the compiler of the first Bristol Guide, bearing the following inscription : Sacred To the Memory of EDWARD SHIERCLIFF, Soil of Samuel and Catliirine Sliierclifi*. Descended from an ancient family Long sealed in the county of York. Born at Whitley Hall, near Sheflield, 14th"May, 1727, And died in this City, Isl Feby. 1798. Possessintr in an epLinent degree Every social virtue that can adorn Private Life; Versed in Polite Literature; Skilled in the Liberal Arts, Whilst his brilliant talents commanded General respect, His engaging manners and unassuming modesty Secured him universal esteem. To trace each feature ol departed worth, Distinguish'd excellence in titling terms Portray, and virtues eminent proclaim, How vain the task ! Alone then let the hand Of Gratitude inscribe tliis sim|)le truth, lieloved of all he lived, by all lamented died. W. S. Walker. The collegiate church of Saint Mark, in Col- lege Green, usually denominated the Mayor's GUIDE.] ST. mark's CHURCH 41 Chapel, was founded by the illustrious family of the Gaunts, a collateral branch of the Berkeley family, probably about 1230. It is frequently called the Gaunts' House, and its religious inha- bitants are styled the Gaunts, by William of Worcester. The side-aisle contains several tombs of the Gaunts, or the Gourneys, which will be visited with peculiar feelings by the lovers of ancient monumental architecture. Among the monuments in this aisle is an altar- tomb, bearing the initials J. C. or T. C. This monument covers the ashes of Carr, a man whose unbounded benevolence, under the direc- tion of a superior judgment, prompted him to erect a more lasting monument to his name, by his active exertions in the founding and endowing of the city-school. Neither the date of his birth, nor that of his death, has been preserved ; but it is certain that he flourished about the year 1580. The object of particular interest in the Mayor's Chapel is the altar-skreen, lately restored to its original beauty and exquisite proportions, at the expense of the body corporate ; by the suggestion as it is understood, and under the immediate direction of the chamberlain, Thomas Garrard, Esq. whose -love for the antiquities of our city, is equalled only by the correct taste and judgment with which he exerts himself to preserve and to restore the beautiful productions of the ages that are gone. The body of the church contains several monu- ments, some of which are interesting, and may deserve a visit when the mind is considered capa- ble of harmonizing with the solemn feelings which such a visit is calculated to excite. e2 42 ST. James's church. [new The church dedicated to Saint Michael, situated on the hill of the same name, has been admired for its neatness, and contains a few monuments executed with chaste simplicity. • — This church was rebuilt in 1777' *^" ^^^^ ^^^® ^^ the former church, which was of considerable antiquity. In the churchyard of St. Michael were interred the remains of William Isaac Roberts, whom a volume of Poems and Letters, published since his decease, proves to have been a young man of genius, and of promising talents, and who possessed that desire of literary reputa- tion, which Dr. Johnson considered a characteristic of intellectual superiority. A flat stone covers his grave, bearing the following inscription : To the Memory of WILLIAM ISAAC ROBERTS, Son of William and Ann Roberts ; Born May 5lh, 1786, And died December 26th, 1806. His amiable and friendly disposition, steady character, and powers ol genius, displayed themselves at a very early period of life, and continued to its final close, endearing him to his disconsolate parents, relatives, and friends, who will long lament his loss. The church of Saint James was anciently a priory of considerable extent, founded by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, the most illustrious character of his age. The priory extended from the west of the present church to the extremity of Barton- Alley, and had been liberally endowed by its munificent founder. St. James's Church was the chapel of the GUIDE.] ST. Paul's church. 43 priory ; it was constituted a parish church, and its tower erected, in 13/4. It was completely repaired in 1804; and has lately been enlarged by a spacious gallery. The architecture of the interior of this church is in the Saxon style ; its altar is adorned with a painting of the Transfiguration. The monuments are numerous ; and that of its founder, which excites the greatest interest, has been recently discovered and repaired. His name, however, is the noblest monument, and his character has been consecrated to immortal reputation by the historian William of Malmsbnry, whom he patronized, and from his friendship for whom the Earl derives a splendour, which birth and titles alone are inca- pable of conferring. In this church was also buried the Princess Eleonora, niece of King John, after a confine- ment of 40 years in Bristol Castle. Her remains were afterwards removed to the nunnery of Am- bresbury, in Wiltshire. The organ conceals a beautiful Saxon window, which, however, may be seen from the exterior, and best from Whit- son's Court. Saint Paul's Church, in Portland-square, is an elegant modern structure, which was finished in 1794. It is admired for the taste displayed in its ornaments, which are said to be appropriate to buildings dedicated to the purpose of a religion, the spirit of which is incompatible with every species of ostentation. We shall not now inves- tigate the accuracy of this sentiment, and can only observe that the painting of the altar, (St. Paul preaching at Athens,) is from the pencil of the late Mr. Bird, R. A. whose admirable jjro- ductions entitled him to a place in the first class of modern artists. 44 DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP. [NEW CHAPTER V. DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP. J_N Bristol, the meeting-bouses for dissenters of the several denominations into which the Christian world is divided, are spacious ; and large congre- gations usually assemble in them for divine worship. As meeting-houses, in every part of the king- dom, are generally in a similar style of archi- tecture, characterised by neatness and simplicity, rather than by magnificence and ornament, it will be sufficient, for every purpose of information, merely to mention the names and situations of those in Bristol. The Ebenezer, or Methodist-Chapel, in the Wesleyan connexion. Old King-street, St. James's, was erected in 1795. It is a spacious building, measuring eighty feet by sixty, and contains a very large gallery upon each of its sides. The Methodists also possess a neat chapel in Port- land-street, Kingsdovvn, denominated Portland Chapel, which contains several monuments. — Guinea-Street Chapel, in the parish of Redcliffe, is also supplied with preachers from the same connexion. They have a fourth Chapel, recently opened for public worship, and called St. Philip's Chapel, situated in Redcross-street. Belonging to the Baptists, the principal meet- [guide, dissenting places of worship. 45 ing-housp is in King-street. This congregation, which fornnerly worshipped at the Pithay, is the most ancient of the denomination in this city ; its pastor is the Rev. Thomas Roberts; its services on Sundays are at half-past ten in the morning, three in the afternoon, and six in the evening. — Broadmead, of which tlie ministers are the Rev. Robert Hall, A. M.-* and the Rev. T. Crisp; Services at half-past ten, half-past two, and six. Counter-slip, near Bath-street, minister; services at half-past ten and six. Great George- street Chapel, Rev. T. I. Cowan, minister; ser- vices at half-past ten, three, and six. The Independents have two meeting-houses in Bristol, one in Castle-green, of which the Rev. William Thorp is minister ; the services on Sun- days are at half-past ten and at six. The other is in Bridge-street, of which the Rev. John Lief- child is minister ; the services on Sundays are at half-past ten, a quarter before three, and at a quarter after six. The Unitarian meeting-house, Lewin's Mead Chapel, is a spacious building of the Ionic order, and erected nearly on the site of the ancient Franciscan Friary. The Rev. John Rowe and are its ministers ;t the services are on Sundays at eleven o'clock and six, * The Rev. Dr. Ryland died in 1825. He was considered a profound schoiar, and is represented to liave been particularly skilled in the sacred languages of the scriptures. He lived universally respected. He died universally and de- servedly regretted. t The Rev. John Prior Estlin, LL. D. had been upwards of forty-six years a minister of this soeiet}, but retired in June, and died the lUlh ol August, 1817. Ills various wri- tings evince his erudition and elegance as a scholar; but the suavity uf bis manners, the benciicence of bis disposition, the 46 DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP. [nEW The Friends have also two meeting-houses, one in Rosemary-street, and the other in Temple- street, which are both modern buildings of great neatness. The Tabernacle, in Penn-street, was founded by Whitfield, in 1753. It has a service on the evenings of Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, besides the services on Sunday, which are at half- past seven in the morning, at half-past ten in the forenoon, and at six in the evening. Lady Huntingdon's Chapel is situated in St. Augustine's-place. In this and in Hope Chapel, Albemarle-row, Hotwells, the service is con- ducted according to the reformed plan of the late Countess of Huntingdon ; the devotional parts of which consist principally of the liturgy, as pre- scribed by the ritual of the Church of England. The Moravian Chapel is situated in Upper Maudlin-lane. The Catholic Chapel is in Trenchard-street ; and the Jews' Synagogue in Temple-street. In the aisle forming the entrance to the Catholic Chapel, a tablet bears the following inscription, which seems to deserve a place here : Here lie the remains of Mr. PATRICK COTTER O'BRIEN, a native of Kinsale, in the Kingdom of Ireland. He was a man of gigantic stature, exceeding 8 feet 3 inches in height, and proportionabiy large. incorruptible simplicity of his mind, and the ardour of his benevolence, must principally live in the memory of those who knew and loved him. — Multis flebilis occidit, nulli flebilior quain opusculi auclori, alumno gratissimo. Care — vale. At veniel felicins aevum Quando iterum tecum, sim modo dignus, ero. LOWTH. eUIDE.] DISSENTING PLACES OF WORSHIP. 47 His manners were amiable and unoffending, and the inflexible inlij^ril) of Lis conduct tlirouyb life, united to tbe caltn resignation with whicli be awaited tlie appiodch of death, proved that bis (iriiiciples were strictly Virtuous. He died :it tbe Ilolwelis, on tbe 8tb of September, 1806, in tbe 46tb Year of bis Age, Requiescat in Pace. The PiTHAY Chapel is now occupied by the Tent Methodists ; services at half-past ten, half- past two, and six. Gideon Chapel, at the extremity of New- foundland-street, is supplied by ministers of the Independent persuasion. Besides these, we may notice Trinity Chapel, Lawford-place, near Old Market-street, which was founded by John Barnstable, in 1416, but rebuilt a few years since. Foster's Chapel, Steep-street, St. Michael's, was anciently denominated the Chapel of the Three Kings of Cologne, to whom it is dedi- cated ; it was founded by John Foster, who was mayor in 1481, and built this Chapel in 1504. The two chapels last mentioned are depen- dent upon the established church. To these we may add the Floating Chapel, or Ark, a large vessel fitted up as a place of worship, and capable of holding a numerous congregation. This vessel is also used as a marine school. 48 COMMERCIAL ROOMS. [nEW CHAPTER VI. DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS. V/F the buildings in Bristol, erected for com- mercial purposes., the most striking from its situation, and perhaps for the eiegant^e of its structure, is The Exchange. The north front is in the Corinthian order, upon a rustic basement, and extends one hundred and ten feet; but the east and west sides are one hundred and thirty- five feet each. It is supposed to be capable of containing about fifteen hundred persons within the peristyle. It was built from a plan of Mr. Wood, by the body corporate, at an expense of nearly fifty thousand pounds. The foundation was laid in March, 1740, and the structure was finished in September, 1743, at which time it was opened amidst the rejoicings of the citizens; and that the general satisfaction might be more complete, the prisoners confined in Newgate for debt were liberated by the corporation. In 1796 this edifice underwent a general repair, from the injuries it had sustained during the revolution of half a century. At a short distance from the Exchange are The Commercial Rooms. The merchants of Bristol having experienced much inconvenience from the want of a public institution, affording accommodations on a plan somewhat similar to the establishment of Lloyd's, in London, and the GUIDE.] COMMERCIAL ROOMS. 49 Public Rooms at Liverpool, a subscription of £17jOOO was filled by the mercantile interest of the city; and in the year IS09 a piece of ground was purchased by the committee of the subscri- bers, in Corn-street, adjoining to St. Werburgh's Church, for the purpose of erecting a building suitable to the object in view. Shortly afterward, the committee made a public application to architects, offering premiums of fifty, thirty, and twenty guineas for the first, se- cond, and third best designs for the proposed building. Ten plans were accordingly submitted to their judgment ; and after the gentlemen of the committee had duly considered and publicly exhibited all the plans, they awarded the first premium to Mr. C. A. Busby, of London, whose design was adopted, and under whose superin- tendence, as architect to the committee, the building was erected. The entrance from Corn-street is under an Ionic portico of four columns,-'^ communicating immediately with the grand room, which is sixty feet long, forty feet wide, and twenty feet in height. In the centre of the ceiling is a circular lantern-light, twenty-one feet in diameter, co- vered with a dome borne by twelve Caryatides, or supporting figures, between which the light is admitted into the room, through reticular iron sashes, and the whole has an effect altogether pleasing and elegant. The height from the floor * Within the portico is a tablet, in basso relievo, executed by Mr. J. G. Biibb, of London. The subject is Britannia, attended by Neptune and Minerva, receiving tributes from the four quarters of the world. Upon the building itself are three statues by the same artist, of which that in the centre is intended to designate the City of Bristol, attended by Commerce on her right, and Navigation on her left. F 50 merchant-venturers' hall. [new to the dome is forty-five feet, and from the centre is suspended a beautiful Grecian lamp, besides four others of smaller dimensions, in the angles of the room. The reading-room is thirty feet by twenty, and seventeen high ; there are also a committee-room and offices, and two rooms over the reading and committee-rooms, of dimensions corresponding with those below. The whole site of the building is vaulted, and the liberality of the committee spared no expense in the solidity of its construction, or in the embellishments, which render it an honourable proof of their public spirit. All the London neWs and commercial papers, as well as those printed in the principal cities and towns of the united kingdoms, are taken in, and also the best periodical publications. Correct authentic lists are kept of all vessels coming in and clearing out from the principal ports ; and every possible information is atforded, to facilitate the extensive commercial arrange- ments of the citizens of Bristol. The number of subscribers to these rooms is at present about seven hundred. The subscription is two guineas per annum. Those who hold no share procure a nomination, for which they pay an interest of twenty-five shillings per annum. — Strangers have access to the rooms under certain restrictions, when introduced by a subscriber, free from expense. The Hall belonging to the Society of Mer- chant-Venturers was built in I7OI, but has been frequently repaired, and the front is of recent date. In a niche over the entrance, is a bust of his late majesty ; and on each side are urns, bearing the arms of the society. The saloon was formerly adorned with several portraits of eminent GUIDE.] CUSTOM HOUSE. 51 merchants, of which the only one at present remaining is a half-length of the distinguished philanthropist Colston, painted by Richardson. This is said to be a good likeness, and is the original from which Rysbrach formed a model for the statue upon the monument in All-Saints' Church. The hall consists of two divisions, se- parated by glass doors fitted to an arch, but in itself is spacious, and its decorations are much admired. The Masonic Hall in Bridge-street, is ad- mitted by all who have seen it, to be one of the most beautiful and correctly appropriate rooms which the craft possesses in England ; and the gothic hall for the assemblage of the Templars and Rosse Crucis Knights, probably unique; its splen- didly elegant appointments delude the beholder, and recal to his imagination the days of the Crusaders. There is also a very handsome and well-appointed Masonic Hall in Broad-street. The halls of the other chartered companies at present remaining are, the Coopers' Hall in King-street, and the Merchant Tailors' Hall, Tailors' Court, Broad-street. The first is a handsome freestone building, in the Corinthian order, built from a design by Halfpenny. Mer- chant-Tailors' Hall belongs to a company of great antiquity and considerable wealth, out of which they founded and endowed an alms-house, in Merchant-street, in I7OI. This hall is now used for public exhibitions, or other similar pur- poses ; it contains some pieces of armour, and the walls are ornamented with a few portraits. The Custom House is situated nearly in the centre of the north side of Queen-square. It is a large brick building, with a piazza in its front, 52 GUILDHALL. [nEW formed of freestone pillars in the Ionic order. The Excise Office is in the same square, and the proximity of both these buildings to the docks is very convenient for the dispatch of business. Of the buildinjis appropriated to the purposes of magistra(ty, or civil jurisdiction, the most central is the Council House. The building which was finished in 1/04 was found inconvenient, and it was resolved to erect a new Council-House on the same site, but considerably enlarged. In con- sequence the present building was begun in 1824, and certainly deserves great admiration. A noble statue of Justice, from the masterly chisel of our fellow citizen Mr. Bayley, adorns the front, and the whole superstructure does honour to the city. The former council-chamber contained several portraits, among which were one of the Earl of Pembroke, by Vandyke, and one of the illustrious Cabot, the intrepid discoverer of North America. The mayor, as chief magistrate, resides during the year of his mayoralty in Queen-square, at the mansion-house built for this purpose in 1784 ; it is a brick building of considerable extent ; and the banquetting-room is much admired. The Guildhall, of which the front has been recently rebuilt, is an ancient structure, but the period of its erection has not been recorded. It is ornamented with the arms of Edward I. a statue of Charles I. the ancient city arms, and the arms of Elizabeth. Adjoining the Hall is the Chapel of Saint George, founded by Richard Spicer, whom William of Worcester mentions as an eminent merchant and burgess of the town in the reign of Edward III. or Richard II. In the Guildhall are holden the assize or general gaol-delivery of oyer GUIDE.] LIBRARY. 53 and terminer, the court of nisi prius, the sheriffs' court, the quarter-sessions, and the court ot" requests for the recovery of debts above 40s. and not exceeding 15/. In St. George's Chapel the mayor and sheriffs are elected annually, on the fifteenth of September ; and the court of consci- ence is holden here for the recovery of debts under 40s. The Bristol Theatre, in King-street, is said to have been pronounced by Garrick to be the most complete in Europe of its dimensions. It was opened on Friday, May 30, 1766, with the comedy of The Conscious Lovers, and the farce of The Citizen ; on which occasion a prologue and epilogue were written by Garrick. The prorogue was spoken by Mr. Powell, and the epilogue by Mr. Arthur. Mr. Catcott, in some MS. notes deposited in the Bristol Library, remarks, " It is deserving of observation that a church, (St. Nicholas,) a bridge, and a theatre, were building in Bristol at the same time ; of which, the theatre was finished first, the bridge next, and the church last." The Assembly-Room is situated in Prince's- street. Its front is of freestone, upon a rustic basement, supporting four columns in the Corin- thian order. Upon the front is inscribed " Curas Citharatollit :" Music dispels care. At a little distance from the theatre is the Library. This is a very valuable collection of books, to which constant additions are making, in consequence of the appropriation of the subscrip- tions to new purchases ; by this means annual accessions to the value of four hundred pounds are said to be made to this library. The terms of admission are a deposit of ten f2 54 LIBRARY. [new guineas, by which the subscriber becomes a pro- prietor; the property is transferable, and an annual subscription of one guinea and a half paid in advance. Attendance is given in the library from eleven till two, and from six till nine, daily, with the exception of Saturdays, when the time of attendance is from eleven to three only. Stran- gers may obtain access to the library by applica- tion to the committee, who will grant this liberty for a limited time ; but they have the power of extending the limitation at pleasure ; and we know that in the exercise of this power, the committee has uniformly acted with a liberality deserving the highest praise. It appears that Bristol bad a public library at an early period, which was under the direction of the Kalendaries, and conducted in the genuine spirit of that liberality which alone can render such establishments extensively beneficial. This library was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1466, at which period it is represented to have consisted of eight hundred volumes. From the d&,te of this event till 1613, no establishment of the kind existed in Bristol ; when Mr. Robert Redwood gave by will a house in King-street, to be con- verted into a library for the public use. In 1636 some addition was made to this donation by Richard Vicaris, and the body corporate were appointed trustees of the infant establishment. About this period Tobias Matthews, Archbishop of York, presented this library of his native city with several volumes of books, "/or the use of the alde7-men and shojjkeepers there^^ which were afterwards increased by various donations ; and in 1739, when the present building was erected, amounted to five hundred volumes. This num~ GUIDE.] ARCADES. 55 ber has since been augmented to two thousand, volumes, which however repose on their shelves without being much disturbed, since it seems to be altogether unknown who, except the mem- bers of the Bristol Library Society, have the right of access to these books. A wing to the original building was erected in 1786, at which period the Bristol Library Society was formed. The Rev. A. S. Catcott bequeathed his museum of minerals and fossils, together with a valuable collection of books, to this library; which also contains a few MSS. among which is one by that gentlemen. In Stokes' Croft, a spacious building is erected by the Bristol Educatioti Society, as an Academy for preparing young men for the exercise of the Christian ministry among the Baptists. The library of the academy is very extensive, and contains almost every production of importance. In the museum are several objects of curiosity and interest, particularly a collection of Hindoo idols, or models of such, which have been sent hither at different times by the Baptist Mission- aries in India. We have visited this museum recently with great pleasure, and know that the stranger would experience no difficulty in obtain- ing access to such objects as are generally considered gratifying to a laudable curiosity. But among the recent improvements in the city, The Arcades, forming a communication between Broadmead and St. James's Barton, are the most prominent, and deserve the highest commendation. This spirited undertaking originated with Mr. Wrayford, Mr. J. W. Hall, and Mr. Paty, and the design has been admirably carried into effect by Mr. Foster the Architect. The foundation- 56 PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. [nEW stone was laid in May, 1824, and bears the follow- ing inscription : This stone, the first of an Arcade, for the better accommo- dation of Foot Passengers, was laid on the Twenty-Seventh day of May, Anno Domini mdcccxxiv, and in the fifth Year of the Reign of His most Gracious Majesty KING GEORGE THE FOURTH. Michael Wrayford, John W. Hall, James Patty, Proprietors. James & Thomas Foster, Architects. The Arcades were opened in June, 1825, and every friend to the improvement of our city will join his wishes that the most ample success may attend this enterprize of the public spirited pro- prietors. F CHAPTER VII. PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. EW cities in the kingdom are more distin- guished, either for the number or the variety of their charities, than Bristol. Their number indeed is honourable to the benevolence of the citizens, and their variety does credit to the civilization of the age, as well as to every amiable disposition to alleviate human suffering. The period, however, has arrived, when it is very generally understood, that the wretchedness of poverty can never be annihilated, till the poor themselves combine to exterminate it. If benevolence would prevent the pains and the sorrows which seem inseparable from indigence, it must follow a new direction ; and instead of providing for the poor, it must enable the poor to provide for themselves. Those exertions therefore of the benevolent, which have / GUIDE.] PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHi\RITIES, ETC. .57 for their object the training of the poor to order, industry, and economy, are eminently calculated to exterminate the evils of poverty, and finally to annihilate its wretchedness. If these opinions of the means of ameliorating the condition of the human race be founded in truth, the provision which is made for the educa- tion of the people must appear a matter of the very first importance.' In Bristol several establish- ments exist, which, in the gradations of the objects that they embrace, are intended for the promotion of this important purpose. Among them, that which is entitled to a priority of notice, is the City Grammar-School, founded by Robert and Nicho- las Thorne. The intention of this foundation was, to provide for the sons of the freemen of Bristol a facility of acquiring the learned languages, and the school has produced some eminent scholars. It has two fellowships at St. John's College, Oxford, and enjoys five exhibitions, worth toge- ther nearly forty pounds per annum. Besides this school, Bristol has two other endowed grammar-schools : the College Gram- raar-School, in Lower College-Green, founded by Henry VII. ; and Redcliffe Grammar-School, in St. Mary's Chapel, at the eastern extremity of Red- cliffe Church, founded by Queen Elizabeth. In the other free schools of Bristol, the branches of education attended to are principally reading, writing, and arithmetic, including, we believe, merchants' accounts. Of these the most impor- tant is Colston's School, in St. Augustine's-place. This is indeed a princely establishment. In it one hundred boys are boarded, clothed, and educated, during seven years; and some of the most skilful accountants of our city and the kingdom have been 58 PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. [NEW formed in this school. Here also the unfortunate Chatterton resided seven years; and if the poems attributed to Rowley are in reality his own productions, here some of them at least were composed. Next in importance to Colston's is the City- School, in which fifty boys receive a similar education, and enjoy similar advantages with those at Colston's School ; they remain here also for seven years. Besides these, Bristol has Colston's Charity-School in Temple-street, for forty boys ; Stokes' Crol't Charity-School, for thirty boys ; Pile-street Charity-School, from which, previous to his reception in Colston's School, Chatterton was expelled as incapable of improvement ; and the Dissenters' Charity-School in Castle Green, for thirty-five girls and forty boys, supported by the benevolence of an individual, Mr. John Holmes, Junior. Nor is the education of females of the inferior orders neglected. Several establishments have been formed for this purpose, of which , the most interesting is the Red-Maids' School in College- Green, in which forty girls are boarded, clothed, and educated, from eight or ten years of age till they are eighteen. There are also several other schools for females, though upon plans somewhat less extended. But, in the present age, the importance of educating the people has been more generally acknowledged, and the improvements recently effected by the systems of Bell and Lancaster have given such facility to the acquisition of know- ledge, as promises its universal dissemination. In Bristol are schools for boys upon both these systems ; and recently has been instituted a school for females upon the system of Lancaster. GUIDE.] PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. 59 It is the advantage of these schools, that they offer the blessings of education to indefinite num- bers. It is the characteristic discrimination of the schools of Lancaster, that they offer them upon terms which can be to none the ground for exclusion. If Bristol had only to boast of its present Infirmary, that alone would place it high in the estimation of every friend of humanity : but it claims also an honour which is but little known, even to its inhabitants, which is, that these in- stitutions originated here, there being at the time Bristol set the example, no Provincial Hospital in the three kingdoms supported en- tirely by the voluntaiy contributions of its citi- zens and neighbours. It was founded in 1/35 ; was opened under the auspices of John Elbridge, Esq. Dr. Bonython, the Hon. Sir Michael Foster, Dean Creswicke, the Rev. Dr. Carew Reynell, John Blackwell, Esq. the Mayor, and twenty-eight other gentle- men. The building, having received additions from time to time as old houses fell into the possession of the societ}^ was, in the year 1782, so ruinous and inconvenient, that the subscribers determined upon its entire demolition, and the erection of such a pile as should at once be commodious to the patients, mark the opulence of the city, and be a lasting monument of the benevolence of its inhabitants. On the 2nd of June, 1784, was laid the first stone of the present building, by Mr. Paty, the Architect, in the presence of Joseph Harford, Esq. Treasurer, Drs, Plomer, Wright, Moncriffe, and Broughton ; Surgeons Smith, Lowe, Noble, Yeatman, and Metford; Thomas Griffiths, Apo- 60 PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. [nEW thecary ; and the Rev. Thomas Johnnes, Chap- lain. The number of subscribers was at that time five hundred and two, and its annual income £2286. The first stone of the centre was laid the 24th of June, I788; and on the 26th of February, 1805, a meeting was held for the purpose of commencing the western wing, E. Protheroe, Esq. the Mayor, in the chair; at which time, and shorty after, the sum of £10,602 was subscribed for its completion and support. It vvill not be forgotten also, that only eight years before, the liberality of the citizens had relieved the charity from its exigencies by a voluntary contribution of £13,515. When we also bear in mind that the advances of these large sums did not interrupt either the ordinary annual subscrip- tions, or, in fact, turn away the usual stream of benevolence from the numerous other charities, we cannot but confess that Bristol redeemed its pledge upon the demolition of the old house, with exemplary spirit and generosity. The Infirmary at present can receive about two hundred in-patients at a time, and has al«o several hundred daily receiving advice, dressings, and medicine. The numbers last year upon the books were five thousand three hundred and seventy-seven. There are in attendance Doctors Carrick, Fox, Pritchard, and Wallis ; Surgeons Richard Smith, Hetling, Lowe, Daniel, and Na- thaniel Smith ; and the Apothecary is Mr. William Morgan. The sum of nearly £6,000 passed through the hands of the Treasurer, during the year 1827- The internal economy of the family is as admirable as its exterior is imposing; and we may assert, without fear of contradiction, that GUIDE.] PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. 61 for accommodation, ventilation, cleanliness, and attention, to good order and the comfort of the patients, it is excelled by no infirmary in the three kingdoms. The Bristol Dispensary is also supported by contributions and annual subscriptions. Its in- tention is to provide medical attendance for poor women in child-birth, and for the poor at their own dwellings. Dr. Kentish has fitted up a complete set of Baths in College Green, for the use of the public ; whilst the faculty at large have an op- portunity of ordering for their patients every species of bath; as the mineral waters of the most celebrated springs in Europe are imitated and administered as baths. Hot, warm, and vapour baths are always ready ; also hot, cold, or vapour douches. The house is fitted up on the plan of the proposed Madeira-house at Clif- ton, which this establishment, though on a small scale, was meant to imitate. Cheltenham water is provided, which, during a course of bathing, is frequently very advantageous in curing many complaints. There are also institutions for removing Dis- eases of the Eyes, which have been productive of the most important benefits. Bristol has also an Asylum for the Blind, in which those who seemed by the privation of sight to be doomed to perpetual inaction, are taught to procure themselves a comfortable maintenance by their industry. This Asylum is situated in Lower Maudlin-street, where baskets and other manu- factures of the blind are always to be pur- chased. The Asylum for Orphan Girls is situated at Hook's Mills, at the distance of about a mile G 62 PDBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. [NEW from Stokes' Croft turnpike. This admirable Institution is eminently calculated to prevent the evils which the Female Penitentiary, in Upper Maudlin-lane, is established to correct. We have chosen thus to combine them, because we are firmly persuaded that an early education, producing habits of industry and reflection, vi'ill be the best antidote of the evils to v^hich in- digent and uneducated females are so much exposed. Besides these charities, several societies for alleviation of the distresses of indigence are estab- lished in Bristol. Of these, the principal we believe are the Anchor, the Dolphin, and the Grateful, which meet annually on Colston's birth-day, and in each of them very considerable sums are collected for benevolent purposes ; the Humane Society, of which the interesting object is the restoration to life of persons apparently dead by drowning ; the Stranger's Friend Society, for relieving the wants of the sick or distressed stranger, and for affording temporary assistance to the poor at their own habitations ; the Society for the Discharge of Debtors confined in New- gate for small sums; and lastly, the Prudent Man's Friend's Society, or Savings' Bank. The principles upon which this last society is estab- lished, it is impossible to commend too highly. It is intended to enable the poor to provide for themselves; it furnishes them motives to be economical, since it receives their savings, how- ever small, and allows them to accumulate at interest. At a general meeting of the Inhabitants on the 2nd of October, 1816, for the purpose of forming a charitable institution to perpetuate the memory GUIDE.] PUBLIC SCHOOLS, CHARITIES, ETC. 63 of the late Richard Reynolds, the Right Wor- shipful John Haythorne, Esq. Mayor, in the chair ; the following resolutions were unani- mously agreed to : " That in consequence of the severe loss society has sustained by the death of the venerable Richard Reynolds, and in order to perpetuate, as far as may be, the great and im- portant benefits he has conferred on the city of Bristol and its vicinity, and to excite others to imitate the example of the departed philanthro- pist, an association be formed under the designa- tion of ' Reynolds^ Commemoration Society.' — That the object of this society be to grant relief to all persons in necessitous circumstances, and also occasional assistance to other benevolent institutions in or near this city, to enable them to continue or increase their usefulness ; and that especial regard be had to the Samaritan Society, of which Richard Reynolds was the founder. — - That the cases to be assisted and relieved be entirely in the discretion of the committee ; but it is recommended to them not to grant any relief or assistance without a careful investigation of the circumstances of each case ; and that, in imitation of the example of the individual whom this society is designed to commemorate, it be considered as a sacred duty of the committee, to the latest period of its existence, to be wholly uninfluenced, in the distribution of its funds, by any consideration of sect or party. Thus have we enumerated the principal cha- rities of our city. We are aware that we might swell the list with several other societies ; but of these we must content ourselves with simply naming the Auxiliary Bible-Society, the Bible- Association, and the Society for Propagating 64 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. [nEW Christianity in the East. These objects are doubtless important, but similar establishments and societies have been instituted in so many parts of the kingdom, that their existence has ceased to be a local distinction. CHAPTER VIII. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. Bi ►RISTOL is partly in, Gloucestershire and partly in Somerset, but is possessed of a juris- diction independently of both, and enjoys the privileges of a separate county. Its civil govern- ment is vested in the body corporate, which con- sists of the mayor, twelve aldermen, including the recorder, two sheriffs, the town-clerk, and the members of the common-council. The mayor and aldermen are justices of the peace. For the trial of capital offences the recorder presides as judge, at the assizes, now held twice in the year ; but for the trial of crimes of minor punishment, the town-clerk presides at the quarter-sessions. Suits of 7usi 2^rius are heard and determined annually by one of the judges who travel the western circuit. Connected in some respects with the corpora- tion is the office of high steward, which is first mentioned in the annals of Bristol in 1540, when the Duke of Somerset possessed the dignity. Lord Grenville, chancellor of the university of Oxford, &c. &c. was elected high steward of Bristol in 1810. GUIDE.] MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 65 Bristol also gives title to a marquis, which at present is enjoyed by the noble family of Hervey. It was created an earldom in 1622, by James I. and conferred upon the ancient family of Digby. Lord John Digby was the first earl of Bristol. Bristol sends two members to Parliament. — The right of choosing the representatives is ex- ercised by the freemen, and the freeholders of forty shillings a year and upwards. Freemen, or burgesses, become so either by birth, by the serving of an apprenticeship to a freeman, pro- vided the indentures are registered at the council- house, or by marrying the daughter or the widow of a burgess. The number of voters is supposed to be about seven thousand ; the present members are Richard Hart Davis, and Henry Bright, Escp's. The popuhition of Bristol, according to the calculation taken by authority in 1811, was 71,279, including the parishes of Clifton and Bedminster. In 1822 the population was esti- mated at 86,043, consequently the increase of inhabitants between these periods has been very considerable. The number of houses has not, we believe, been correctly ascertained ; but it is supposed to be between thirteen and fourteen thousand ; and accessions are constantly making to that number. The local commerce of Bristol is very great, and is derived from the advantages which it enjoys for an extensive inland communication. The Avon, the Severn, the Wye, the Uske, the Parret, and the Tone, together with their tribu- tary streams, and the various canals connected with them, afford a ready conveyance for the several manufactures and imports of Bristol, and bring to it the various productions of the sur- g2 06 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. [nEW rounding counties. By these means this city enjoys an extensive traffic with a great part of the kingdom ; and thus it obtains from the adja- cent counties, in exchange for its imports and its manufactures, the several articles of exportation which are necessary for foreign commerce. It deserves observation, that the first Brass made in England was produced at Baptist-Mills, in the neighbourhood of Bristol ; and that the workmen who were employed for this purpose, were brought hither from Holland. The manu- facture was first established in the beginning of the last century, about the year 1/05. This establishment was succeeded by others for the same or similar purposes, and Messrs. Coster and Wayne, in conjunction with Sir Abraham Elton, and afterwards Messrs. Champion and Emerson, carried these manufactures to the highest degree of perfection. Among the present manufactures of Bristol, that of glass, in the several varieties of crown, flint, and bottles, is entitled to the first notice. The principal houses for flint-glass are at Temple- gate ; and for bottles in St. Philip's parish and the Hotwell Road. To all these the stranger may obtain access on stated days : for those at Temple -gate, the days fixed for the admission of strangers are Tuesdays and Thursdays. Of the articles manufactured in glass, great quantities are exported to Ireland, the West-Indies, and British America, particularly of bottles, as nearly half of the number made are sent out filled with porter, beer, cider, perry, and Hotwell-water. The refined sugars of Bristol are generally considered of superior quality, and great quanti- ties are exported to Ireland ; besides which, the GUIDE.] MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 67 whole of South Wales, and almost all the counties of the West of England, are supplied with refined sugars from Bristol. The shot made in Bristol has obtained some degree of celebrity, and was manufactured under a patent. The tobacco-trade in Bristol is considerable, and the manufacture of snuft" extensive. Of the other manufactures, the principal are soap, hats, leather, both tanned and dressed in oil, shoes, and saddlery ; all of which furnish articles for expor- tation, as well as an extended domestic traffic. Nor must the pottery of Messrs. Carter & Co. be omitted in the sketch of the manufactures of Bristol ; for of the articles made here, it is little praise to say that they combine elegance with taste ; and consequently that a visit to the Pottery is now generally among the objects which are pointed out to the notice of the stranger of curiosity. Of the foreign commerce of Bristol, the most important branch is that to the West-Indies. Some of the ships employed in this branch of trade are from 500 to 600 tons burthen ; and the exports are materials for building, including great quantities of lime, the various articles of clothing necessary for the inhabitants of the West-India islands, large quantities of bottled liquors, and such implements as are used in the making of sugar, and in the other business of the plantations. The imports are sugar, rum, cofl'ee, cotton, and other productions of the West-Indies. Of the commerce to Spain and Portugal, Bristol enjoys a considerable proportion, and about four thousand bags of Spanish wool are annually imported into Bristol. 68 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. [nEW Next in importance perhaps is the trade be- tween Bristol and Ireland, or to Newfoundland, and to British America. In all of these, capital to a great amount is employed ; and if sufficient enterprise be not excited, yet industry and activity procure for the citizens a commercial respectability, which gives Bristol a high rank among the cities of the empire. Nor must we omit the improvements effected in the harbour, because they do honour to the public spirit of the age. These have converted the rivers Avon and Froora into immense floating docks, by means of dams, and by the new chan- nel which has been formed for the Avon. The advantages derived from these improvements are of the first importance, since vessels are no lon- ger liable to receive any injury from lying on the mud after the departure of the tide ; and a greater degree of celerity has been given to the commerce of the city, because now ships of the greatest burthen may sail from the quays at the lowest neap-tides. These improvements are honourable to the skill and perseverance of those who projected them, as well as those who car- ried them into execution, and combine to render the harbour of Bristol as secure, commodious, and convenient, as any in Europe. It must also be observed, that the new road on the side of the canal, forms a direct commu- nication between Bath and Clifton without pass- ing through Bristol. On this road the traveller will obtain a view of the new navigation, the two iron bridges, and Bathurst and Cumberland basins. This road also commands such pic- turesque views of St. Vincent's rock, of Clifton, and the surrounding scenery, as will not fail to give additional interest to the ride. GUIDE.] MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. 69 The expense of these extensive and important improvements has been defrayed by a subscription of some of the })rincipal merchants, and amounted to upwards of £600,000. To evince still more clearly the opulence and public spirit of the inhabitants of Bristol, no less a sum than £10,000 was at the same time raised, by voluntary subscription, to build an additional wing to the Infirmary, and an annual subscription of four hundred and eighty-four pounds was pro- cured for its support. Subsequently an annual subscription of upwards of two thousand pounds was raised, in aid of the British and Foreign Bible Society. CHAPTER IX MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL.* A .T the City Library in King-street, is a very valuable Cabinet, bequeathed in 17/9? hy the Rev. Alexander Catcott, vicar of Temple, to the Corporation, in trust for the use of the Citizens of Bristol. It contains a choice collection of antede- luvian organic remains, together with a consider- able number of medals and coins, both ancient and modern. * It is not pretended that this list is accurate, as it con- tains only sucFi notices as the Editor has been able to collect by enquiry amongst his friends; in its present state, however, it is highly honourable to the individuals and to the city ; and is at once a noble and complete refutation of some insinuations which have often been urged in reference to the character of Bristol and the pursuits of its inhabitants. 70 MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. [NEW At the same place (\re deposited a collection of specimens in Natural History, chiefly botanical, a Cabinet of coins, and several manuscripts, be- queathed by Arthur Broughton, M. D. late physician to the Infirmary, who died in Jamaica, A. D. 1796. William Barnes, Esq. of Redland, lately de- ceased, had in his possession a Museum, chiefly collected by the late Mr. Whitehead, of Hambrook. It consists of exquisitely beautiful missals, curious old black letter, and other scarce specimens of early printing and fine works. Among the manuscripts is an undoubted daily account-book, in the actual autograph of Queen Elizabeth, with abundance of curious entries of her personal expenditures. The Cabinet contains regular series of ancient and modern coins and medals, some exceedingly costly gems, and several unique spe- cimens of European and Asiatic pottery and china ; amongst the former are several plates painted by Raffael, when paying his addresses to the manu- facturer's daughter ; two superbly carved ivory cups, studded with precious stones, one of which is by John of Bologna; there are likewise many exquisite works of art, particularly in clock-work ; and several very interesting relics, amongst others, the cradle of our Henry the 7th, and a great variety of curiosities of various denominations. Mr. William Clayfield, of Clifton, possesses a very fine and interesting selection of specimens, illustrative of the science of mineralogy. Mr. James Johnson, at the Hotwells, has an extensive and highly interesting collection of fossilized organic remains, shells, corals, and minerals. Of fossil bones his cabinets are parti- cularly rich, and it is probable, that no private GUIDE.] MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. ^l collection surpasses them in this department. They were chiefly collected by himself during a period of thirty years, aided and assisted by his son, Dr. Johnson, F. R. S. In the collection will be seen several gigantic heads of that curious nonde- script marine animal, found in and peculiar to the lias stratas, which of late years have attracted the attention of the first naturalists of the age. In the philosophical and geological transactions of the last four years will be found many papers and engravings of the animal, by Sir Edward Home, Rev. Dr. Conybeare, and others. Thomas Webb Dyer, M. D. of Park-street, possesses a beautiful Museum, consisting of superb specimens in each of the kingdoms of na- ture; his attentions have however been chiefly directed to British objects. The stuffed birds are particularly splendid, and the insects and fishes in very high condition. The numerous specimens of minerals and organic remains are exceedingly fine, and his extensive library of natural history, is, perhaps, unrivalled in splendour and value out of the Metropolis. Mr. Richard Smith, Surgeon, of Park-street, inherited from his father, in 1/91, a most valuable anatomical Museum, to which he has made so many additions, that it now consists of at least one thousand preparations of various descriptions. The specimens in morbid anatomy are many of them unique, and those particularly, which exhibit the destruction and formation of bone, are ex- tremely valuable and numerous. The collection of calculi consists of upwards of three hundred ; each has been sawed through, analyzed, and displayed upon cards, with the names of the operators, subjects, and results. This depart- 72 MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. [NEW nient is probably unrivalled by any private cabinet in the kingdom. The eye and teeth have also been objects of particular attention. There are also many valuable corroded and quicksilver preparations ; together with a fine series of em- bryos. As a specimen of adipocere is the heart of the (presumed) body of Master Robert Yeamans, executed in Wine-street, 1643, by Fairfax, for an attempt to deliver the city to Prince Rupert; exhumated in digging a vault in 1814. The Museum also contains a variety of skulls, to exhibit the facial angle, and many other demon- strative preparations. We have heard that it is the intention of this gentleman to give them to the Infirmary, where they are a great desideratum. Mrs. Smith has also a valuable collection of shells. Mr. George Cumberland, of Wells-street, has a large collection of organic remains, judiciously arranged agreeably to the strata in which they are found. He also possesses many objects of Virtu, brought by him from Italy. Mr. Millard has a very superb cabinet, illustra- tive of British entymology, a subject in which he is particularly conversant. Mr. J. S. Millar has a fine collection of British insects, dried plants, shells, and corals, together with a large quantity of organic remains. Mr. George Brackenridge, of Brislington, has a very fine collection of organic remains, and an immensfe assemblage of drawings, manuscripts, and ancient relics relating to the city of Bristol. Mr. W. P. Morgan, of Ashton, has also several organic remains, some fine encrinites, and a beautiful specimen of the Proteorrhachius, found by himself in raarle, near Minehead. GUIDE.] MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. ^S Thomas Garrard, Esq. F. A.S. the Chamberlain, has an extensive collection of curiosities of various descriptions, many relating to this city, and highly valuable. Mr. Henry Goldwyer, Surgeon, has several fine specimens of ancient armour, bows, arrows, and other weapons, as also a small cabinet of calculi. George Wallis, M. D. possesses a valuable Museum of anatomical preparations, chietly col- lected by the late Mr. Thomas Shute. Mr. Norton has a fine collection of coins, together with a series of British and French national medals. Mr. Henry Smith, Attorney, has a very ex- tensively illuminated and illustrated History of Bristol particularly, and of the Kingdom in general, the work chiefly of his own pencil. The Rev. Samuel Seyer has a fine series of coins, and a very large assemblage of the most valuable documents relating to Bristol, forming the materials of his valuable history already published. Richai'd Bright, Esq. has an extensive and choice Cabinet of Icelandic and Cornish mine- rals; the former were collected by Dr. Bright, in a visit to the Northern Regions. The Lady of Sir Richard Vaughan has a fine selection of minerals and particularly splendid copper ores, lately in the possession of Mr. S. Herbert, of whose industry Mr. Parkins speaks so highly in his second vol. of Organic Remains. Dr. Daubeny possesses an unique collection of his own forming of basaltic granite, and other specimens of the rocks in Scotland. The Museum at the Baptist Academy has been mentioned before at page 55. H 74 MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. [nEW The Very Rev. Henry Beake, D. D. the Dean, has a most extensive and vahiable collection of mi- nerals, a great part of which formed the Museum of the late James Tobin, Esq. In the Cabinet of the latter gentleman was a most beautiful and perfect recent specimen of the Pentacrinite, which was brought ashore alive by the draught of a Seine, near the rocks in the Island of Nevis. There are at present only four specimens of this very rare marine animal in the kingdom, and this is bv far the most perfect : it is deposited irj the British Museum. Bristol Philosophical and Literary Insti- tution. The ground upon which this building stands was purchased for the sum of £646 lis. 7d. including the costs of conveyance: the entire cost of the building is estimated at £1 1,251 . Its site is allowed to be particularly commo- dious and accessible, but the situation and nature of the ground obviously opposed great obstacles to the production of Architectural symmetry and effect. The general opinion, however, is that this edifice is not only adapted with singular ingenuity to the accidents of the ground, but that it materially contributes as a beautiful object to the ornament of the city. In the proportions of the Portico, are recognised rather a Grecian model than the Roman of Tivoli, from which the general outline is taken. It is scarcely needful to remark, that the capitals of the columns are of that species of Corinthian which prevailed in the Temple of Apollo at Phigalia, an edifice which belongs to a truly classical epoch. It is situated in Park-street : the capital for erecting the building being derived from shares of £25 each, (which sum establishes a proprietor.) (5UIDE.] MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. 7'^ The foundation-stone was laid on the 29th of February, 1820. The building is finished, with the exception of the fitting-up of the great room ; and is ornamented externally with a handsome portico containing a frieze, sculptured and pre- sented by E. H. Baily, Esq. R. A. as a native of Bristol, In the interior are two reading-rooms, furnished with various daily and weekly news- papers, English and Foreign periodical publi- cations, maps, and a library of reference ; a committee-room, surrounded by glass cases, con- taining a collection of above 3.50 species of stuffed Foreign and British birds ; a lecture-room, capa- ble of accommodating 350 auditors ; a laboratory and apparatus room, containing philosophical and chemical apparatus. Up stairs there is a great room of 60 feet by 30, and 25 in height, hitherto used for the gratuitous exhibitions of paintings by Bristol artists, and pictures by the old masters, by the liberality of proprietors residing in and near Bristol, to aid the funds of the Institution. A Museum, containing a collection of fossils de- posited by Mr. J. S. Miller ; specimens of stuffed quadrupeds, reptiles, and skeletons; dresses of foreign nations, and other curious objects., pre- sented by the friends of the Institution. In a room, opposite the Museum are the fine casts, from the JJ^gina Marbles, the originals of which are in the possession of the King of Bavaria, at Munich, and cost £8,000. Behind the great room is an apartment containing the Blisset collection of minerals, purchased by a sub- scription of £500, entered into at the first annual meeting, and presented by seventy-five gentlemen to the Institution. Here also a good collection of geological and other specimens is 76 MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. [nEW preserved ; and a fine collection of shells, pre- sented by Mrs. Lovell, widow of the late Dr. R. Lovell. To establish an annual income for the support of the Institution, each proprietor of a share of £25 becomes a member, by paying two guineas the year, for which he has access to the reading- rooms, museum, laboratory, gratuitous lectures, use of the philosophical and other instruments. He also receiv^es, on subscribing to lectures at which money is taken, an additional transferable ticket; and has the liberty of introducing strangers to the reading-rooms and museum. Proprietors holding shares unoccupied, may nominate a subscriber, who is to pay two guineas to the Institution, and one guinea to the proprietor. Strangers residing in and near Bristol, may have admission to the reading-rooms, by a sub- scription for a period not less than six, nor ex- ceeding twelve, months. Since the opening of the Institution, several courses of lectures on Chemistry, Botany, Ana- tomy, &c. have been delivered. A Philosophical Society has been formed by the members of the Institution, wlio have, during the winter, monthly meetings, at which papers on various subjects are read in the theatre : each member is allowed to introduce two strangers. The society has elected several highly distin- guished scientific men for honorary members and associates. Althougb this Institution can hardly be said to have existed more than a few years, yet its progress has been astonishing, of which its Museum will give ample proof. It is unincumbered with debts, the w'hole building and all in it being paid for ; GUIDE.] MUSEUMS IN BRISTOL. // and its annual income bids fair to increase to a sum adequate to all its wants. The Institution is open every day from nine o'clock in the morning until ten at night, except on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas day. An introduction personally or in writing to the curator, admits visitors to see the building and museum, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from eleven until four o'clock. The exquisite statue of Eve at the fountain, the masterly production of Mr. Baily, is placed in the same room with the casts of the ^gina Mar- bles. This statue cost 600 guineas, was the produce of an exhibition of paintings, aided by a subscription to complete that sum. h2 (^#^ #^ aBi^g) (BS ^^, FROM ROBERT RICART. •e. ®< 1480. BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON OR, THE CLIFTON AND HOT WELL GUIDE: WITH A DESCRIFTIVF. ARRANGEMENT OF EXCURSIONS IN THEIR VICINITIES: AND ON THEIR GEOLOGY, BOTANY, &c. &c. ILLUSTRJTED ffJTH A MAP. FOURTH EDITION. BY THE REV. JOHN EVANS, Author of the Ponderer, and of the History and Picture of Bristol. BRISTOL: SOLD BY AITKENS, CLIFTON ; ATKINSON, PARK STREET ; DAVEY AND MUSKETT, LATE FROST, BROAD STREET ; HILYARD, JOHN STREET j UAMMET, IIOTWELLS ; LANE, CLIFTON ; LANCASTER, BROAD STREET j MORGAN, JOHN STREET ; NORTON, CORN STREET ; REES, WINE STREET ; REID, CORN STREET ; ROSE, BROADMEAD J TREMLETT, COLLEGE GREEN ; TYSON, CLARE STREET ; AND WIL- LIAMS, PARK STREET. MDCCCXXVIII. ADVERTISEMENT. THE author has been gratified by the i-eception of his little book, since he has reason to know that it has beer found to be an acceptable companion to the inquisitive and scientific stranger, in his rambles among the majestic beauties of Clifton and its vicinity. He solicits any suggestions for its improve- ment, while he repeats his best thanks for the valuable com- munications which enrich his appendix. BEAUTIES CLIFTON, &c. Ti HE celebrity which Clifton has obtained seems to demand that one little volume, at the least, should be appropriated to a description of its beauties. This feeling prompted the wish to compile the following pages, which it is hoped will be found to contain ample information for the traveller, and serve to assist the man of science in his researches among the botanical and geologi- cal treasures of its vicinity. Ascending the hill from Bristol towards the church, the principal objects which solicit the stranger's notice, present themselves nearly in the following order : — The New Church was consecrated on the 12th of August, 1822. It is a spacious and handsome edifice, and its internal arrangements have been admired for their convenience, simplicity, and elegance. 8 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON, The monuments which were contained in the old chm'ch have been removed, and are tastefully deposited in the vestibules, and at the western entrance, under the tower of the present structure. These memorials are awfully impressive, since they are for the most part inscribed with the names of those who were summoned from ' the warm precincts of the cheerful day,' in youth's fairest, loveliest prime. This, of necessity, gives a similarity to the inscriptions ; our limits how- ever, permit us to transcribe only the following, which is borne by a tablet, dedicated To the memory of MISS SUSAN PROBY, Daughter of the Rev. Dr. Proby, Deau of Litchfield j Whose body is interred in this Church yard. She died August G, 1804, in the 28th year of her age. In youtli's gay hour, in beauty's loveliest bloom, What friend shall smooth the passage to the tomb ! Pure faitli, firm trust in Him who died to save, And humble hope, that looks beyond the grave. These were thy teachers, Susan ! — thus upheld, Nor fear unnerv'd thy mind, nor anguish queli'd. Ye fair and young ! the bright example view : Her suflerings and her patience speak to you : Thro' four long years of pain, of lingering death, In various climes she drew uncertain breath ; At length, her meek submission fully tried, Siie saw her native shore, bless'd God, and died. K. Narev. Among the monuments in Clifton church, there is no tablet bearing the impressive epitaph on Lady Palmerston, written by her husband, Lord Palmerston. But its exciuisite pathos induces us to insert it here ; and we feel confident that our readers will require no apology for its intro- duction : THE CHURCH. — THE GROTTO. V Wboe'er, like me, wilb trembling- anguisb brings His heart's sole treasure to fair Bristol's springs ; Wboe'er, like me, to sootbe disease and pain, Shall pour these salutary springs in vain ; Condumn'd like me to bear the faint reply, To mark the fading cheek, the sinking e^e; From the chiii'd brow to wipe the damps of death, And waleh in dumb despair the short'ning breath; — If chance tlirect him to this artless line, Let the sad mourner know, his pangs were mine — Ordain'd to lose the partner of my breast, Whose virtue warm'd nie, and whose beauty bless'd, Fram'd every tie that binds the soul to prove, Her duly friendship, and her friendship love. But yet) remembering that the parting sigh Appoints the just to slumber, not to die ; The starting tear I cbeck'd, I kiss'd the rod. And not to earth resign'd her, but to God. Opposite to Clifton church is the house of Gabriel Goldney,--^ Esq. celebrated for its cu- rious grotto. On the entrance is displayed a great variety of rare and costly shells ; the sides are embossed with Bristol stones, mundic, metalic ores, and petrifactions, with various other fossils ; the roof is finely fretted, and the floor presents a rich mosaic pavement. In a cavity at the upper end is a statue of Aquarius, leaning on an urn, out of which issues a stream of water, murmuring over rugged stones, till it falls into the hollow of a large escalop-shell, from the brim of which it descends, in gentle rills, into a reservoir intended for gold and silver fish. Fronting the door is the representation of a lion's den, in which appear striking figures of a lion and lioness, to the no small terror of the * It was an ancestor of the Goldueys who sent to sea the expedition under Captain Woodes Rogers, a Bristol man. Rogers' Logbook is in the present Mr. Goldne>'s possession, with the account of the finding of Alexander Selkirk, at Juau Fernandez, in Rogers' own haud-wriling. 10 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. timid on their first admission. From the grotto is a subterraneous passage to a fine terrace-walk, from whence are seen the most beautiful land- scapes. The gardens are extensive, and exhibit many of the peculiarities of modern taste in the science and practice of horticulture. Near to Clifton Down is the house formerly inhabited by Sir William Draper. On the right embosomed in trees, which form a sombre but appropriate shade, is an obelisk of freestone, on the base of which is the following inscription ; Gdlielmo Pitt, Comiti de Chatham,* Hoc Aniicitias Testimoniuin, Simul et Honoris })ublici Moiuimentum Posuit GULIKLMDS DRAPER. On the left is a cenotaph, which is supported by an altar-tomb, and surmounted by an urn. On the cenotaph is inscribed, Sist.e Gradual, si quae est Britonum tibi cura, viator Siste Graduni; vacuo recolas inscripta scpulchro Tristia Fata virum, quos bellicus ardor Eoutn Proh Dolor! hand unquam rcdituros, misit ad orbem. Nee tibi sit iugere pudor, si forte tuorum Nomina nola legas, sed cum tcrraq. niariq ; Invictos Herouni animos, et I'acta revolves Si Patriae te tangit amor, si fama Britanniuni, Parce Triumphales lacrymis aspergere lauros. Quin si Asife penelrare sinus atq. ultima Ganges Pandere claustra pares, Indosq. lacessere bello Ex bis virlulem discas, veruuiq. laborem : Fortunam ex aliis. * " Recorded honours shall gather round his monument, and thicken over bim. It is a solid fabric, and will support the laurels that adorn it." Junius, of Lord Chatham. SIR W. DRAPER. — MALL. — HOTEL. 1 1 On the tomb is the following inscription : Sacred To the memory of those departed Warriors Of the seventy-ninth llegiment, By whose Valour, Discipline, and Perseverance, The French Land-Forces in Asia Were first witlislood and repulsed, The commerce of Great-Britain preserved, Her settlements rescued from impending; destruction. The memorable Defence of Madras, Tiie decisive battle of Wandcwash Twelve strong and important Fortresses, Three Superb Capitals, Argot, Pondicheruv, Manilla, And Ihe Puillipine Islands, are lasting Monuments of their Military Glory. Their generous treatment of a vanquished Enemy Exhibits an illustrious example of true Fortitude and Moderation, worthy of being transmitted to the latest posterity, That future generations may know Humanity is the characteristic of British Conquerors. From this cenotaph Clifton Down conducts the traveller towards the Mall, which is situated to the left of the Down, and in which are the Clifton Hotel and the Assembly Rooms. The frequent and numerous visitors from every part of the kingdom to the beautiful and salubrious scenes of Clifton, and the increase of its opulent and distinguished residents, suggested the idea of a spacious and elegant Hotel and Asserably- Rooms, which should combine elegance with comfort, and unite amusement with accommoda- tion. 7'o accomplish these objects no expense has been spared, and every exertion of art and taste has been devoted to the erecting and fitting 12 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. up of a spacious and elegant Hotel, on an airy and picturesque site, the plan of which embraces and concentrates, in a superior style, every lead- ing object of public amusement, as well as those which provide for the accommodation and the comfort of the stranger. The Hotel and Assembly-Room occupy the whole extent of the eastern extremity of the Mall, and the front exhibits elegance and taste in its architecture. The centre consists of the elegant rooms en suite, which are usually denominated card, dancing, and tea rooms. The first of these was designed for a reading-room during the morning, and the whole suite is opened for the public subscription assemblies. The south Vv'ing and the apartments over the centre form the Hotel, for the accommodation of strangers, which is in the occupation of Mr. BuRTT, whose style of accommodation and atten- tion to his guests deserve the highest praise. The north wing is a private dwelling-house, and the apartments between this wing and the centre are in the occupation of the spirited and tasteful proprietor of the structure, J. L. W. AuRiOL, Esq. In the vicinity of the Mall, a building has been erected, which forms a reading-room, with a billiard and a card room. It is understood that the expense was defrayed by subscription, and that every effort has been made to render the establishment worthy of the celebrity which Clifton has obtained as the resort of elegance and fashion. From the Mall to the Downs again the dis- tance is inconsiderable. These, with the rocks, have been frequently described ; but no language ROMAN CAMPS, ETC. 13 can do justice to the variety and the peculiar beauties of their scenery, or to the extent of prospect which they command. These scenes will be among the favourite rambles of the lover of nature ; and the views from the Royal Cres- cent, and indeed from every part of Clifton, will combine to vary and to heighten his gratifications- On the high and opposite points of Clifton and Leigh Downs, in rocks that overhang the Avon, are the vestiges of three Roman Camps. These are supposed to be the work of the Propraetor Ostorius, who commanded in Britain about the year of Christ 50. They are of a semicircular shape, as nearly as the ground would admit ; the land side being defended by four fosses and three bulla formed of loose lime-stones, heaped to a considerable height, and cemented together by filling up the interstices with boiling mortar. Instances of which are discovered in digging, where the adhering parts are as tenacious as the solid stone. The dimensions of this at Clifton are about two hundred yards in length, and about one hundred and fifty in breadth. A deep trench is cut through the solid rock, the whole length of the camp, on the side parallel with the river. This appears to be of much later date, and was pro- bably an intrenchment of the royal or parliamet- ary forces, when they lay encamped on Leigh or Durdham Down, before the siege of Bristol. The camps on the Leigh side are still larger. The eastern is now covered with forest trees. The western is somewhat smaller, in which, at the angle of two precipices, are the re- mains of a PRiETORiUM, of a circular form, and defended by a vallum and fosse. A deep ravine between these served as a passage down to the c 14 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. river, and a ford at low water formed a com- munication with the opposite camp at Clifton. Various other traces of Roman fortifications are visible in the vicinity, both to the north and south; on Kingsweston Down, at Amesbury, Stokeleigh, Fayland, Walton, and Clevedon. These were probably castra ffistiva, vel explorativa, and all pointed to this spot, as the grand and principal station. The heights of these stations enabled the guards to descry an enemy in almost every di- rection, at a great distance, either by land or by water, the Severn being visible for some miles both up and down ; and a fire kindled, would furnish an alarm beacon to all the collateral and subordinate posts. Indeed the importance of the station might be conceived from the means used to secure the advantages it gave ; strong walls and treble ditches. Art strove to outvie nature in rendering' this an impregnable fortress. Secured by an inaccessible precipice on one side, by ram- parts on the other, every thing was added which combined to render it peculiarly terrible, and a strong post of defence against the desultory mode of warfare generally practised by the Britons. Situ- ated on a large and navigable river, they could easily annoy the enemy by water; and on the land side, both to the north and south, in posses- sion of a rich fertile country, they were furnished with the means both of escape and defence, and within command of assistance from the other important stations of Aqua Solis and Caerleon. In a situation thus wisely chosen by this mili- tary people, they probably lived in garrison during winter, and in the summer occupying the country to a considerable extent, secured in its possession by their fortified heights or AGRARIAN Camps ; and ROMAN CAMPS. — ANTIQUITIES. 15 their vessels safely moored in PoLBURY PiLL, where the small river Trim forms a junction with the Avon. This being the most defensible post between Aqua Solis and those west of the Severn, and lying in the direct line, is a presumptive proof that it was the Abone of the Imperial Itinerary. Tacitus observes, " That Ostorius disarmed the suspected Britons, and fortified the Avon and Severn." The station of Sea-Mills on the Trim, Caer Oder, or Bristol, with the different camps in the vicinity inclusive, may be considered as the Abone of the Romans. It is observed by the judicious Horsley, that, " The Romans were very careful to have their stations placed near a river, and there was no situation they were so fond of as a lingula, near the confluence of a large and small river ; and if we run along a mi- litary line, we are sure to meet with a station wherever we find a river at any defensible distance from a preceding station." Many relics of Roman antiquity have been found in the vicinity of these camps, and numerous coins of the early Emperors, with urns, tiles, and inscribed bricks, particularly when in making Sion and Gloucester Rows, and from the abun- dance of human bones which were found, it has been supposed to have been a place of interment after some struggle for the recovery of British liberty. How far these camps were connected with the works on the first approach on Durdham Down, is difficult to be traced ; but it is not improbable that they united with the Via-Julia, which communi- cation extended from Bath to Caerwent, across the Downs. The Julia Strata, or Via-Julia, is one of those Roman roads, formed in order to connect 16 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. their great stations one with the other, and to fa- cilitate the marching of the troops in case of in- surrectionj or otlier military purposes. It meets the Down on the side of Redland, near the second mile-stone, where it is observable, and may be traced running S. E. and N. W. to Durdham- Lodge, running in front of Sir Harry Lippincott's Mansion, continuing under the wall at Sneed Park, and over the adjoining hill, where it enters the great station of Sea-Mills, a place which has involved such variety of opinions, relative to its being the Abone, the grand naval magazine of the Romans. Both the botanist and the fossilist will find the downs and the rocks of Clifton a rich field for ob- servation, and an almost inexhaustible source of curious specimens of the productions of nature. Most of these rare productions will be enumerated in the appendix to this work ; and we shall now only observe, that almost every species of moss and lichen is found here, with a great assemblage of plants, among which is that delicate plant, the Geraneum Sanguineum, found native only in this vicinity and in North Wales.* The great variety of plants spontaneously growing in this neighbourhood, naturally suggests the idea of a botanic garden ; and from the num- ber of scientific men resident in Bristol, Clifton, and the Wells, such a plan certainly embraces a most gratifying object. We are aware that an attempt has once been made to accomplish this object without success ; but from the great im- provements which have been made at the Wells, and in Clifton, and from the public spirit which these display, there can be little doubt that the * For a list of the Plants found on tlie rocks and in their vicinity, the reader is referred to the Appendix. ■niE HOTWELLS. 19 THE HOTWELLS. This salutary spring, which " pale-eyed suppli- ants drink, and. soon flies pain," lies about a quarter of a mile westward from the boundary of Bristol, in the parish of Clifton, on the Gloucester- shire side of the Avon. It rises near the bottom of the cliffs, about twenty-six feet below high- water-mark, and ten feet above low-water, forci- bly gushing from an aperture in the solid rock. A spring so copious as to discharge sixty gallons in a minute, and possessing the rare quality of being warm, could not escape the notice of our ancestors. William of Worcester, the earliest writer concerning Bristol, whose works are extant, observes, that it is as warm as milk, and like the waters of Bath, but without adverting to its medi- cinal qualities. In time, however, it became famous for the cure of the stone and gravel, diar- rhoeas and diabetes, king's-evil and cancers ; and in short, for almost every disease that can afflict human nature. In 1725 Dr. Winter seems first to have noticed its sedative effects, and since that time the waters have been anTilyzed by various physicians. Now for two centuries it has been resorted to by invalids ; successive improvements have been adopted to pi;eserve it in its native purity, and to furnish accommodation to those who wish to use the water at the fountain-head. 20 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. Its real temperature, when drunk at the pump, Las been ascertained to be about seventy-six degrees of Farenheit; and according to a modern author, its principal component parts are 1st. An uncommon quantity of carbonic acid gas. 2d. A certain quantity of magnesia, soda, and lime, in various combinations, with the muriatic, vitriolic, and carbonic acids. In consequence of these impregnations, the water appears well calculated to temper a hot acrimonious blood, and to cure or palliate con- sumptions, weakness of the lungs, hectic heats and fevers. It is also successfully prescribed in uterine and other internal haemorrhages and inflam- mations; in spitting of blood, dysentery, chlorosis, and purulent ulcers of the viscera. It is likewise beneficial in diarrhoea, gleets, diabetes, stone, gravel, stranguary, nervous atrophy, colliquative sweats, loss of appetite, and indigestion. In all these complaints it may be used with success, particularly if resorted to in time ; and there can be little doubt that the purity of the air round Clifton is equally as beneficial as the spring, when the patient has recourse to these means of resto- ration in the early stage of disease. The water, when received into a glass from the spring, appears sparkling and full of air bubbles, which rise from the bottom and adhere to the sides, as if it were in a state of fermentation. At first it is of a whitish colour, but this goes off when it becomes cold. It is without smell, pleasing and grateful to the stomach, and though soft and milky to the taste, is in reality a hard water, and will not easily dissolve soap, but curdles it into white masses. PUMP-ROOM.— LIBRARIES. 17 period is not far distant, which will witness the forming of an establishment of such value in the diffusion of science. The ascent from the Lower to the Upper Pump Room is cut on the surface of the rock in a zig- zag form, and unfolds in its progress prospects of the most exquisite beauty, till From the height • Of Clifton's tow'ring mount, the enraptured eye Beholds the cultivated prospect rise, Hill above hill, with many a verdant bound. Leads to the fount ! from whose auspicious spring Flows health, flows strength, and beauty's roseate bloom. The room is spacious and handsome, and the Hotwell water is obtained from a well which was sunk by the late Mr. Morgan, at a prodigious expense, through the solid rock, to the depth of 286 feet. The opening into this inexhaustible spring is situated too distant from the bed of the river to be affected, or in any way dependent on the ebbing or ilowing of the tide ; therefore always enjoying its chrystaline purity, and unvaried tem- perature of 760 of Farenheit. This water has been analyzed by the most eminent physicians and chemists, and found to contain all the mineral pro- perties attributed to it in the highest perfection. There are are also commodious baths, and an extensive circulating Library and Reading Room, conducted by Mr Aitkens, supplied with all the Newspapers and Periodical Publications; also stationary, jewellery, perfumery, and fancy articles. Mr. Lane's Library and Reading Room is in Sion-place, where he has made his selection of books with taste and judgment, and for general accommodation keeps an extensive assortment of new publications, stationary, Foreign and English perfumery, hardwares, &c. c 2 18 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. From Clifton Downs, on the same side of the river, is seen a small circular building, in appear- ance resembling a military watch-tower, which is known by the appellation of Cooke's Folly, having been built by a person of that name in 1693, as an inscription over the door informs us. Of this Cooke it is said, that having dreamed he should meet his death by the bite of a viper, he became the dupe of superstitious melancholy ; and endea- vouring to take precautions as strong as his fears, erected this building and immured himself within its walls, receiving his provisions and other arti- cles in a basket, and depending on this envelope for security. As those who place confidence in such dreams will readily subscribe to the doctrine of destiny, they scarcely need be told that he realized the warning of the visionary monster. A viper, concealed in a faggot that lay ready to replenish the fire, reanimated by the warmth, sprang out, and inflicted a fatal wound on this unfortunate recluse. Thus, perhaps, his precau- tion became the means of realizing his fears; for it often happens that a prediction becomes the cause of its own accomplishment. THE HOTWELLS. 21 Dr. Keir observes, that consumptions have been stopped in their career by the continued use of this water, and a strict milk diet. He also adds that it is a specific in diabetes, and that he does not know any medicinal water, in the use of which a person may with less risk be his own physician. The times of drinking the water are commonly before breakfast, and always an hour before or after a meal. Patients who are much enfeebled should begin with a quarter of a pint for a draught, which they may repeat four or five times a day, and increase the quantity till they can bear from half a pint to a pint. Gentle exercise in the open air should be used between each draught ; this must be regulated by the strength of the [patient, but should occupy, in different portions, at least three hours of each day. In all seasons the water has the same tempera- ture and efficacy; but the time of general resort is from the middle of April to the end of October. Spring and summer are most favourable for in- valids of every description, and particularly so for those who are consumptive; and if we combine the salubrity of the air in this vicinity with the medicinal qualities of the water, no situation seems to be more auspicious and inviting. From a poetic address to the fountain, we borrow the following lines : Scar'd at thy presence, start the train of Death, And hide their whips and scorpions. Thee, confused, Slow Fever creeps from: thee the meagre fiend Consumption flies, and checks his rattling coughs. But chief tlie dread disease* whose watery power, Curb'd by the wave restringent, knows its bounds And feels a barrier. Nor youth alone thy power indulgent owns : * Diabetes. 22 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. Age shares tliy blessing j and the tottering frame's By thee supported After quaffing the salutary beverage, the in- * valid has here the advantage, during rainy or cold weather, of walking under a colonade, in a crescent form, with ranges of shops; in one of which Mrs. Yearsley, the celebrated milk-woman of Bristol, kept a circulating library for some years. Many and very important improvements have been recently effected at the Wells. The old Hotwell House has been taken down, and a very elegant classical structure has been erected near its site. The proportions of this building are beautiful ; but when seen from a distance, the structure ap- pears lost in the magnificence of the surrounding scenery. It requires therefore to be viewed near, and then its elegance immediately recommends it to the e}"e of taste. The new Pump Room is deservedly admired, and the baths are fitted up with a taste and ele- gance which deserve the highest commendation. Here the invalid possesses every facility for using these celebrated w-aters with advantage, and in Mr. Weeks and family, who conduct the estab- lishment, will find every attention that can contri- bute to ease and comfort, and where genteel parties may be accommodated with breakfasts, tea, coffee, &c. The new road which is carried in front of the Hotwell House, winds along the banks of the river, and ascends the hill a little below Giant's Hole. This road commands some very lovely views ; and indeed in picturesque beauty, it is difficult to con- ceive any thing which is superior. It is well known that the Hotwells have been compared to THE HOTWELLS. — INSCRIPTIONS. 23 the vale of Temp^, and many travellers have pre- ferred the tranquil views obtained on the new road, to those commanded by the Simplon. Dowry Chapel, at the Hotwells, is small, but has been recently much enlarged and improved, and contains some interesting monuments. That to the memory of Sir James Stonehouse and his lady consists of two tablets, and bears inscriptions from the pen of Mrs. H. More, which deserve transcription. On the first tablet is, Near this place are deposited the remains of SARAH STONEHOUSE, the second ^vife of James Stonehouse, M. D. more than twenty years Physician to the Northampton InBrmary. And afterwards Rector of Great and Little Cheverel, in Wiltshire. Come Resignation ! wipe the human tear Domestic anguish drops o'er Virtue's bier; Bid selfish sorrow husU the fond complaint, Nor from the God she loved detain the saint. Truth, Meekness, Patience, honour'd shade! were thine, And holy Hope, and Charity divine; Tho' these thy forfeit being could not save. Thy Failh sujjdued the terrors of the grave. Ob I if thy living excellence could teach. Death has a loftier emphasis of speech ; In death thy last best lesson still impart, And write prepare to die on every heart. Hannah More. She died, December 10th, 1788, Aged 56 years. On the other tablet is, In the same grave lies interred, her most atiectionate Husband, Sir JAMES STONEHOUSE, Bart. M. D. 24 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. To whom She had been married thirty-four years. Here rests awhile, in happier climes to shine. The Orator, Physician, and Divine ; 'Twas his, like Luke, the double task to fill. To heal the natural and the moral ill. You whose awaken'd hearts his labours blest. Where every truth by every grace was drest j O let your lives evince that still you feel The effective influence of his fervent zeal. One spirit rescued from eternal woe. Gives nobler fame than marble can bestow ; That lasting monument will mock decay, And stand triumphant at the final day. Haj^nau Morb. He died December 8th, 1795, in the 80th year of his age. On a tablet adjoining is the following inscription : In memory of JOHN STONEHOUSE, Esq. Son of the Rev. Sir James Stonehocse, Bart. and third Jndge of the Court of Appeals in Calcutta; Who died on the 27th February, 1803, Aged 41 years. He possessed talents which adorned The important station he fill'd. And integrity, without which Talents are of little worth. His life exhibited a pattern Of the domestic virtues: And his early death. Amidst the ardent pursuit Of public employments. Holds out to the active and the busy, This awful admonition, 3Sc ge al^o realrp. Dowry Chapel is a chapel of ease to Clifton HOPE CHAPEL. — ASSEMBLY ROOM. 25 Church, and consequently belongs to the establish- ment.. In Hope Chapel, Albemarle-Row, the service is conducted according to the reformed plan of the late Countess of Huntingdon. In this chapel a tablet to the memory of Lady Hope bears the following inscription : In the vault under this Chapel are deposited The remains of Lady HENRIETTA HOPE, 2nd Daughter of James, Earl of Hopetoun, in Scotland; who died, 1st of January, 1786; A Lady possessed of the most amiable disposition. United to manners highly polished, And strong mental powers greatly improved; And when to this lovely portrait we add The high yet just colouring of a soul enriched with every grace, And a life adorned with every virtue, The picture is only drawn to the life. Yet, though thus Iiigh in the scale of reputation, The deepest humility mark'd her character ; Taught from above, she formed a just estimation Of Time — and of Eternity. Therefore, with a noble generosity, she devoted Herself and her all to the glory of God. — The sacrifice Was accepted ; and the saint ripe for heaven, Soon dropped the mantle of mortality, and entered Upon the possession of that inheritance That fadeth not away ; Leaving an example highly worthy of imitation. This tribute is paid to her memory By her friend. Lady Maxwell. The Assembly-Room at the Hotwells is ninety feet long, thirty-five wide, and the same in height It is consequently a handsome room, and com- mands some lovely views from its windows. Saline Mineral Spa Water is procured at a house fitted up for the purpose, a little below Mardyke, in the Hotwell-Road. This water issues from a chasm in a rock; is perfectly trans- parent, and contains an admixture of the saline and chalybeate with certain proportions of fixed and dephlogisticated air. It has nothing nauseous D 26 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. in its taste, and it is said, by those who have made the experiment, to act in the mildesj man- ner on the most irritable or delicate constitutions. Convenient hot and cold baths are constructed for the use of the patients ; and there is reason to believe that this spring will be found to answer the high character which has been given to it. A Dispensary has been established for Clifton and the Wells, situated at No. 1, Gloucester- Terrace ; and we are informed that very important advantages have been derived from the establish- ment, by the indigent of those extensive districts. EXCURSIONS FROM CLIFTON AND ITS VICINITY. -1- HE vicinity of Clifton, is perhaps, unequalled in the picturesque beauty of its walks and rides. Clifton and Durdham Downs, of course, form objects of immediate attraction ; as a ride or a drive, these downs are universally confessed to be indeed delightful ; but as a walk, they exhibit a succession of scenes, that vievsed from their various points, present landscapes of the most ex- quisite beauty, which the pencil has frequently attempted to portray, and the poet to describe : and among which, the eye of taste always finds some novelty to excite either pleasure or admi- ration. Leaving the Downs, the usual ride is through Westbury and Henbury, to the Cottages, to Kingsweston, through Lord De Clifford's Park, and to Pen Pold Hill, and then to the Downs again through Stoke ; forming a circuit of rather THE COTTAGES. — BLAIZE CASTLE. 27 more than ten or eleven miles. In this ride it is desirable to include Kingsweston Hill, a most delightful drive over the turf, and commanding extensive views of the Severn, the Channel, and of the Welsh Hills, beside the luxuriant vale of Westbury to the right, with Blaize Castle in the front of the landscape. Westbury and Henbury are delightful villages, of which Westbury Church will deserve a visit from the antiquary, and Henbury Church, with its churchyard, from the admirer of taste and elegance in the adornment of churches ; both contain some interesting monuments, which de- serve a visit ; and some inscriptions which merit to be transcribed, if the limits of our work did not forbid us the indulgence. The Cottages are about a quarter of a mile from Henbury Church, a little to the right of the road. They are ten in number, and are placed within an area not exactly of a circular form, though they are all nearly within view of each other. These cottages are charming specimens of rustic designs, combining simplicity with beauty and taste. The little gardens attached to each cottage, and the neatness and order in which the whole is kept, render this a scene really pleasing, and almost enchanting. The plan of each cottage differs from that of the other, and each is designed for the residence of individuals of reduced circum- stances ; for which purpose they were erected by the late A. G. Harford, Esq. and will long remain monuments not of his taste only, but of the amiable benevolence of his disposition. Blaize Castle is situated to the left of the Henbury road, nearly opposite the Cottages. It is a large triangular tower, built on an eminence 28 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. in the midst of a wood, and commanding very extensiv^e landscapes. In digging the foundation of this fanciful structure, which was erected be- tween forty and fifty years ago, several brass and silver coins of the Roman emperors were found. Here formerly stood a chapel dedicated to St. Blazius, bishop of St. Sebastian, in Spain, who was the patron of woollen-manufacturers. The taste and skill of Mr. Repton rendered this na- turally beautiful place still more beautiful than it originally was. KiNGSWESTON, the elegant seat of Lord De Clifford, was built by Sir John Vanbrugh, and is a striking monument of the architect's taste, which Sir Joshua Reynolds has rescued from the discredit into which certain wits brought it by their false and malicious criticisms. In this building, parts which architects wish to hide are made ornamental ; for the chimneys, rising boldly frora the centre of the house, form a square arcade at the top, and give to the whole a light and pleasing appearance. Few noblemen's seats contain so valuable a collection of original paint- ings ; they are chiefly from the Italian and Flemish schools. The house is situated in a noble park of about 500 acres ; and the gardens are laid out in the first style of elegance. Here opposite the grand alcove, is an echo that repeats eight or ten times. A neat thatched cottage serves as a lodge, where the woodbine and other shrubs delight to stray. Pursuing the road, the mansion, partly shaded by stately trees, presents itself at the extent of a fine lawn, the sides of which are deeply fringed by luxuriant elms. KiNGSWESTON Inn is also delightfully situated, and the adjoining hill of Pen Pold commands OLD AND NEW PASSAGES. — CHEPSTOW 29 views, which for extent and beauty, will bear a comparison with some of the most lovely of nature's loveliest spots. This therefore will be a favourite excursion from the lover of nature, and with the admirer of art, since it combines the means of gratifying a taste for the beauties of each. The village of Westbury leads to the New and the Old Passages, and thus to Chepstow. The New Passage is, we believe, more fre- quented than the Old. It is ten miles from Bristol ; and here the Severn is three miles broad at high-water. The ride to the New Passage is extremely pleasant, and the views from it down the Channel, and of the opposite side of Mon- mouthshire, are delightful in the highest degree. Aust, or the Old Passage, is twelve miles from Bristol, and has a ferry to cross the Severn, which is here two miles wide. Steam packets are employed at both passages. Chepstow, in Monmouthshire. Perhaps few excursions will give more pleasure to the lover of nature, or afford greater gratification to the ad- mirer of architectural ruins, than that to Chepstow, including Piercefield and Tintern Abbey. The route is to the New Passage ; after crossing which, the distance to Chepstow is five miles. At Chepstow the object of peculiar interest is its venerable castle, magnificent even in ruins. It is situated upon the summit of a rock, rising perpen- dicularly from the banks of the Wye, and towards the land was defended by a moat, large and deep. It is said to have been erected by Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, surnamed Strongbow, who invaded Ireland. Pembroke died in Dublin, in 1176, and was buried in the chapter-house of Gloucester Cathedral. Colonel Henry Martin, d2 30 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. was confined in Chepstow caetle during several years, for the part he took in bringing Charles 1st to the scaffold, and is buried in the church, in which a monument with an impressive inscription is dedicated to his memory. PiERCEFiELD is about a mile and a half from Chepstow. This is now classic ground, for it is associated with the memory of Miss Smith, whose extraordinary attainments and superior powers of intellect were only equalled by her extraordinary acquirements in every moral excellence, and her superior advancement in every Christian grace. These associations give an additional charm even to the beauties of Piercefield, notwithstanding art has vied with nature in giving every possible effect to its bewitching scenery.* Tintern-Abbey is about four miles from Pierce- field. This has been pronounced by some, whose extended sphere of observation had qualified them to determine, to be one of the finest ruins in the kingdom. The Abbey is in the pointed style, and, when perfect, must have been particularly * beautiful. It is situated near the Wye, and the surrounding scenery is highly romantic and pic- turesque. Written in Tintern jibbey. " How many hearts have here grown cold, That sleep these mouldering stones among ! How many beads have here been told ! How many matins here been sung ! * This charming as well as wonderful young woman, who was at once capable of whatever is deep and wliatever is elegant, is recognised amongst scholars with the most candid acknowledgment of her powers. Frequently, when my youngest brother has sought for me all the information that the great Hebraists can afford me, he will make Elizabeth Smith's translation of Job his last reference, and admit her opinion to turn the scale. On his advice I forbore learning Hebrew, as being a language so liable to mistakes. Memoirs, &c.of Miss Hawkin?, vol. II. p. 162. TINTERN ABBEY. — WIND CLIFF. 31 On this rude stone, by time long broke, I think I see some pilgrim kneel ; I think I see the censer smoke, I think I hear the solemn peal. But here no more soft music floats, No holy anthems chaunted now; All's husli'd — except the ring-dove's notes, Low murm'ring from the ivy's bough." The traveller, on his way to Tintern, should visit Wind-Cliff, of which the following description is from the pen of one in whom an enthusiastic ad- miration for the beauties of nature was a leading characteristic. " There is in the neighbourhood an eminence called Wind-Cliff, w^hich I had frequently heard of, and was anxious to visit. I found my way thither through a plantation of firs that crowns this summit; at the end of which a landscape of such transcendant beauty and magnificence opened before me, as cast a sort of shade on every former scene within my observation. I felt as if I had been conducted-to the spot by the hand of some invisible agent, to contemplate the regions of enchantment or the gardens of Elysium ! It embraces a thou- sand picturesque objects ; yet, as a whole, it is not picturesque, but possesses something of a superior kind, that cannot be easily described. The man of taste would ever gaze upon it with rapture and astonishment ; but he would never think for a moment of sketching its likeness on canvass: he knows that the labour would be in vain. The scene is of too variegated, too immense, and too resplendent a character, to receive any just deline- ation from either the pencil of the painter or the inspiration of the poet."* ♦ Remains of William Reed, &c. p. 113. 32 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. The traveller is recommended to embark on the Wye to return to Chepstow ; which will not only procure variety, but greatly heighten by its scenery the pleasure derived from the excursion. It must also be remarked that Piercefield can be seen only on Tuesdays and Fridays. There is a beautiful new road by the river's side, through the wood from Piercefield to Tintern Abbey. Crossing Rownham Ferry from the Wells, or proceeding through Bristol to Bedminster, is a delightful excursion through x\shton to Brockley Coombe. Bedminster, in Somersetshire, joins the Red- clifFsideof Bristol, and deserves notice on account of its church, which is said to be of great antiquity. The church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. On the north-west abutment of the tow^er is a stone bearing the date of 1003, which is therefore considered to be the period of its erection ; but with what probability, the architectural antiquary is best capable of determining. Bedminster is the ' mother church,' to which St. Mary Redcliff and St. Thomas are only chapels of ease. AsHTON Court, lies in a sweet and pleasant vale, between Dundry and Leigh-Down. This seat of Sir John Smyth, Bart, is a stately edifice, and was repaired, enlarged, and beautified, under the direction of Inigo Jones, but the mansion itself is of greater antiquity. Vast quantities of straw- berries and raspberries are produced in this village, which are eaten with cream by the visitants from the Hotwells and Clifton. Ashton Court has of late been much enlarged with stables, nearly as extensive as the house, and also a park, enclosed by a wall, which is twelve feet high in the lowest part. Two handsome lodges have also been added, one of them built from a fine gothic design. BROCKLEY COOMBE. 33 Brockley-Coombe. The road to the village of Brockley, which is about nine miles from Bristol, leads through Long Ashton, and access to the Coombe is immediately obtained from the main road, through a large gate, almost opposite the mansion of IBrockley-Court. I do not know how to give a better general idea of the place than by saying it is an immense chasm in the mountain, winding for a mile and a half, or somewhat more, and terminating on a range of fine heathy downs. But what constitutes the principal charm of this delightful glen, is the circumstance of its being so abundantly enriched with wood. It is a kind of paradise, which the sylvan deities would be pleased to call their own. Trees of all shapes and cha- racters are here scattered in the most interesting confusion. The young aspiring ash mixes its elegant foliage with that of the oak; whilst the ivy and the more gay and flowering shrubs, by wreathing their tendrils around the trunks and branches of the more naked trees, bestow an additional grace on the whole. One side of the Coombe is a lofty mass of limestone rock ; yet this rock is so profusely ornamented with vegetation, as to resemble a garden fantastically suspended in the air. Some of the rocks on the summit of the cliffs were finely illuminated, resembling, in detached portions, the fortifications of^a city at a distance. The rays of the sun broke in through several openings amongst the trees, and cast upon the variegated foliage, on the broken masses of stone, and on whatever object they chanced to fall, a beautifully golden transparent light, which the painter knows how to appreciate in nature perhaps better than any other man, and to appropriate to the purposes of art. 34 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. But to appreciate the beauties of Brockley- Coombe, it should be viewed at all times and seasons of the year — in a storm, and by the soft lustre of the risino; Moon — in the spring, when the trees are unfolding their verdure and flowers, and made vocal with the music of a thousand birds — and in winter, when those beauties are passed away, and succeeded by those of a less enduring but more brilliant character; when the branches are changed, by an instantaneous kind of magic, into plumes of snow or spangled with icicles. The road to Clevedon is also through Ashton to Failand. The village of Leigh* is to the right: in this village, Mr. Milks has erected a splendid mansion, which is said to contain one of the finest collections of paintings in the vicinity of Clifton; amongst many other highly valuable ones, are St. John, by Dorainichino, valued at £12,000 — an almost unicjue Leonordo da Vinci of the Salvator Mundi — Four Claude's — Three Poussin's, two of large dimensions — The Conversion of St. Paul, and the Woman Taken in Adultery, by Rubens, (he gave 5000 guineas for the latter) — The Plague at Athens, N. Poussin, from Hope's collection. Cleveeon, in Somersetshire, about thirteen miles west of Bristol, is a delightful ride, and the high and healthful heaths which surround the village command some of the finest views in the country. In the neighbourhood of Clevedon is Walton * It was at Leigh Court, that Trenchard, the owner of th^ property, wrote " the Independent Whig," which made so much noise in Queen Anne's time. f Charles II. took refuge in the old mansion at Leigh Court, upon quitlitii; Boscobcl, after the battle of Worcester. They used to show the bloek on which he sat basting the meat, when Ibo cook beat bim with the ladle.'. DUNDRY. — THORNBURY. — REDLAND. 35 Castle, an inconsiderable ruin, which commands a fine view of the Bristol Channel, Cievedon Court is the seat of Sir Abraham Elton, Bart. DuNDRY is above Ashton to the left. This hill is the most lofty around Bristol, and constantly in sight, being only four miles and a half south-west from it. The prospects, from the summit of this long ridge, are well worth enjoying. Thence may be seen extensive views of the Bristol Chan- nel, and of the coasts and mountains of Wales ; of the Malvern Hills, in Worcestershire ; of the Cities of Bath and Bristol ; of the White Horse in Wiltshire; and with a telescope, from its tower, near the western end of the hill, the city and ca- thedral of Gloucester may be clearly distinguished. Thornbury and Berkeley Castles form objects for an interesting excursion. From Clifton the best route is over Durdham Down to Redland, through Horfield, to Filton, and Almondsbury Hill. In Redland Chapel, which is an interesting specimen of Grecian architecture, are two busts by Rysbrach, and a picture by Vanderbank, of which the subject is the Embalming of the Messiah. The busts are of Mr. and Mrs. Cossens, who erected this chapel, and built the adjoining mansion of Redland Court, from a design by Strachan. Redland Court is the seat of Sir Richard Vaughan. In the neighbourhood of Redland is Cotham, the seat of John Barrow, Esq. remarkable for its observatory, a tower of seventy feet in height, which commands extensive and picturesque views of the surrounding country, and also for a peculiar stone, called Cotham stone, a specimen of which may be seen in the entrance gates to Mr. Barrow's house. 36 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. x^LMONDSBURY, seven miles north from Bristol, commands fine prospects of the Severn, of the Channel, and of the adjacent counties. Under the hill is the church, in which it is said Alemond, the father of Egbert, was buried ; whence probably the narwe of the place is derived. At Knowle, in this parish, is an ancient forti- fication, with a double ditch, which is supposed to be the work of Offa; but tradition, we believe, is the only authority which can be adduced for the conjecture. Thornbury, a market town, in Gloucestershire, about eleven miles N. E. of Bristol, is principally entitled to notice for its castle, which was begun by the unfortunate Edward, Duke of Buckingham, in 1511. As that nobleman fell a victim to the pride of Wolsey, or the caprice of Henry, a few years afterwards, this castle was never com- pleted ; but it still exhibits a pleasing specimen of taste and skill in architecture, and an impres- sive memorial of the instability of worldly greatness. The beautiful arched gateway, which is the principal entrance into the castle, remains entire, and is greatly admired for the excellence of its workmanship. Over the arch is the fol- lowing inscription, extremely well cut in Gothic characters, raised above the surface : "This gate was begun in the yere of our Lorde Gode MCCCCCXI the iith yere of the reyne of Kyng Henry the VHIth by me Edw. due of Buckinha erlle of Harforde Stafforde and North- ampto." Upon a label are these words : " Dorenes Navante."* * A learned friend conjectures the motto to be— Derrieres y ayante. BERKELEY. 37 The parish of Thornbury is twenty miles in circumference. The church is spacious and hand- some : it is built in the form of a cathedral, with a lofty tower, ornamented with rich open worked battlements and eight pinnacles. Pleasantly situated on a branch of the Severn, in the beautiful vale of Berkeley, is the town of the same name. This is a very ancient corporated town, and chiefly consists of one street. The church is a large handsome edifice; containing some elegant monuments of the Berkeley family. The tower, which is new, stands at some distance from it. Berkeley Castle is a noble gothic structure, and was for several centuries the residence of the Earls of Berkeley. It was begun in the reign of Henry I. and finished in that of Stephen, and was considerably enlarged and repaired in the reign of Henry II. The Castle is situated upon a rising ground in the midst of meadows. It is nearly of a circular form, and the buildings are within an irregular court, surrounded by a moat. The hall is very large and much admired. The room in which King Edward II. was confined is still to be seen. The murder of this unfor- tunate monarch, is, perhaps, the most remarkable circumstance in the history of this castle. In the civil wars it suffered considerably, as it did a few years since, by an accidental fire. There are some good pictures in the apartments, chiefly portraits ; and some landscapes by Wouvermans, Claude, Salvator Rosa, &c. Dr. Jenner, a name dear to science and phi- lanthropy, was a native of Berkeley. The usual road to Bath is through Arno's Vale, to Brislington and Keynshara. £ 38 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. About a mile from Bristol is Arno's Vale. On the right is the mansion, and on the left a building resembling a castle, with its usual ac- companiments. This castle, which in reality is a stable, is built of copper-slag, or scoria?, and is reported to be a model of a castle on the banks of the Arno, in Italy, from which the vale is said to derive its name.* Here is erected the castle-gate of Bristol. Over the outside once stood, in niches, two statues of Saxon princes, taken from Lawford's-gate ; and on the inside are the statues of Robert, Earl of Gloucester, and Godfrey, Bishop of Constance, brought from The j\'ewgate. In the village of Wick, near Arno's Vale, at a house lately inhabited by T. Eagles, Esq. collector, and before him by the Willoughby family, there is a summer-house, wherein xlddison wrote a great many papers i'or the Spectator. Keynsham is a market-town, on the Bath road, at the distance of five miles from Bristol. It has a spacious church, in the pointed or Gothic style, with a good set of bells, and was formerly noted for its Abbey. The town itself is far from elegant, but has been much improved re- cently. Some copper-mills are erected near it, on the Chew, a little river which falls into the Avon. The neighbourhood is famous for the cultivation of woad ; and here the stone called * I am sorry to destroy your derivation of Arno's Vale — but the fact is, that the property belonged to a man whose name was Arno. There was a famiais pot-bouse here, I have a poem of Cliatterton's, in which be says: "The cits «alkt out to Arno's dusty Tale, To take a smack at polilics and ale." It was destroyed within my remembrance. S. BATH. — ABSTON AND WICK. 39 cornu ammonis (or horn of Jupiter Ammon) may commonly be found. Bath. The traveller who visits Bristol or Clifton, and has not seen Bath, will scarcely omit a visit to this abode of elegance and fashion. In the correct taste displayed in its architecture, in regularity and beauty, perhaps the city of Bath is without an equal. For a description of its objects of interest and curiosity, the reader may consult " The Bath Guide."'*- ' The road to Bath, through Bitton, is the upper road ; that through Wick, over Lansdown, is, we believe, the least frequented. Abston and Wick, in the county of Gloucester, is about seven miles and a half from Bristol, and six from Bath. In this parish is a range of rocks, somewhat similar to those at the Hotwells, but on a smaller scale. A little river winds its course between them, called the Boyd. These rocks in many places have a sparry substance on them, which Sir Robert Atkyns has styled rock-dia- monds ; but these are neither so hard, nor of so fine a lustre as the Bristol stones. Belemnites, astroites, and serpentine stones, are found here, as also several Roman coins, and other antiquities. Lansdown is a delightful eminence, command- ing the most extensive views over the adjoining counties of Somerset, Gloucester, Worcester, and Wilts, and from one point the cities of Bath and Bristol mayjbe seen at the same time. * There are, we think, three works under this title ; one published by Mrs. Meyler, one by Mr. Ford, and one by Messrs. Simms and CoUin^s ; the last the Author has most frequently consulted, and found it an interesting and instructive little work, enriched with poetical effusions of no ordinary excellence. 40 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. On the Hill is a monuraent, with this inscrip- tion : " To the immortal memory of his Grand- father, and valiant Cornish Friends, who conquered dying in the Royal Cause, July 5th, 1643. This column was dedicated by the Hon. Geo, Granvdle Lord Lansdown, I72O." " Dulce est pro patria mori," Besides these the following places are deserving of notice. Badmington, a seat of the Duke of Beaufort, is about sixteen miles N. E. from Bristol. The grounds around the house are picturesque and beautiful ; the house itself contains some fine paintings, and some interesting specimens of an- tique sculpture. We visited the church with particular pleasure; and though time has nearly obliterated the impressions which it made, we still recollect having been highly gratified with the graceful dignity of two statues in it, to the honour of members of the family. Of the date of these statues, and of the individuals to whose memory they are consecrated, we have no remembrance, and can only recollect that the statues themselves are said to have been executed in Italy. Stanton Drew is about six miles from Bristol, and is amply entitled to notice, for the interesting specimen of druidical architecture which it con- tains. This specimen consists of circles formed by immense masses of perpendicular stones, as at Stonehenge, with this difference, however, that at Stanton Drew the circle is much larger, and ap- pears to have been connected with two inferior circles, one of wliich still exists in considerable perfection; but the masses of stone which form these circles are much more rude and unformed ; and none of the incumbent or horizontal stones, STAPLETON. — WRINGTON. 41 which at Stonehenge excite such reverential astonishment, are found at Stanton Drew. The antiquary, however, must not fail to visit this spe- cimen ; for we have no hesitation in promising him pleasure or instruction from the excursion. Stapleton is two miles N. E. of Bristol, In its neighbourhood is Stoke-House, the resi- dence of the Duchess Dowager of Beaufort.* This is a spot to which the pedestrian will fre- quently delight to ramble, because its woods and park command views concentrating beauties which are not frequently combined, and of which language would convey a very imperfect conception. Wrington is a market-town, about ten miles S. W. from Bristol, in the vicinity of which is dug and prepared lapis calanwiaris, ore of zinc, or spelter, which, mixed with copper, produces brass. But Wrington possesses a more powerful claim to attention ; for it was the birth-place of Locke, " who made the whole internal world his own." Locke commenced his career in 1632, but neither in duration nor in extent shall any limit be assigned to his fame. In the vicinity of Wrington is Barley Wood, for a long time the residence of the distinguished and deservedly celebrated Mrs, H. More. * While we are revising this sheet, the Bristol Newspaper* announce the death of the Duciiess Dowager of Beaufort, in the 82nd year of Ler age. K 2 EXCURSIONS BY STEAM PACKETS. 43 EXCURSIONS FROM BRISTOL BY THE STEAM PACKETS. Ti HESE excursions in the Channel are illus- trated by the engraved sketch which accompanies this volume, and are described in a little book by the author of this, entitled " A Companion for the Steam Packet, in Excursions to Chepstow, Newport, .Swansea, Ilfracombe, Tenby, and their Vicinities," which may be procured of all the Booksellers, and to which we refer for more ex- tended information. On the Somersetshire coast two delightful spots are fast rising into estimation as watering places. That nearest Bristol is Clevedon, at the easy distance of twelve miles, which is daily becoming more and more the resort of those who are in quest of health, from the enjoyment of fe a bathing, and pure air. The other is Weston-Super-Mare, at a distance of twenty miles. Here the salubrity of the air, the extent of its health-inspiring beach, and the downs in its vicinity, with the convenience of its commodious baths, combine to render this a re- treat of peculiar attractions. APPENDIX. AN ABBREVIATED ACCOUNT OF THE GEOLOGY AROUND BRISTOL, AND AN ENUMERATION OF SOME OF THE MOST INTERESTING COLEOPTERUS INSECTS, WITH A LIST OF SHELLS FOUND IN ITS ENVIRONS, BY I. S. MILLER, A. L. S. CURATOR OF THE BRISTOL PHILOSOPHICAL INSTITUTION, &C. A, XTHOUGH the environs of Bristol do not display to the geological inquirer the primitive and transition rocks, yet they present to him many of the secondary rocks, which frequently show themselves in most instructive sections. The secondary rocks are divided by the Rev, W. BuCKLAND, into two great series ; namely, those of an inclined and those of an horizontal position; of the former^we may notice the first sandstone, or great coal and mountain lime formation, of which various beds show themselves in a fine section below Bristol, on the banks of the river Avon. Of this formation is the old red sand- stone, the lowermost bed which may be seen at Westbury, Sneed Park, on both sides the river Avon, below Cooke's Folly, at Leigh, &c. on this the mountain limestone rests, which forms those high clifts along the Avon, called St. Vin- cent's and the Black Rock, from which the salutary and famed Hotwell spring arises. These clifts extend around Bristol, forming distinct basins, in which the coal strata are deposited that furnish the inhabitants of Bristol with a consid- GEOLOGY AROUND BRISTOL. 4o erable quantity of coal. Of the mountain lime- stone. Dr. Bright, in his paper on the geology of Bristol, in vol. W. part 2. of the Geological Transactions, has distinguished seventeen beds.* All these beds are full of organic remains, of which I have distinguished and described more than one hundred species, many of which are enumerated in the Rev. Conybeare and Phillips's valuable publication on the Geology of England, vol. i. page 355. The bed 16 contains a very interestmg limestone breccia, fdled with palates * In reference to llie limestone, I do not intend to describe in detail all the beds of it, but the following are what I thought best deserving of notice, from their commencement immediately below the coal, down to the lowest in the series. The tirst part of the series is best observed on the northern bank of the river. 1st. A mass of limestone composed almost entirely of organic remains, and containing much iron, with madrepores between the strata.— 90 feet. 2nd. Ten thin beds of blue and close grained limestone with clay between them, in which madrepores are imbedded. — 8 feet. 3d. Limestone composed entirely of particles bearing marks of organization. — 18 feet. 4th. A very thin stratum of red clay covering. 5th. A layer of coaly matter, one inch thick. Gtli. IJlue clay divided by bands of yellow clay. — 12 feet. 7th. Limestone resembling No. 3 ; this occurs at the distance of about one hundred yards west of the Well House. 8th. Limestone that is quarried as being tit for burning, forming magnificent clifts about a quarter of a mile beyond the llotwell House. 9th. Limestone in thin strata, impregnated with ochre, so as to be unfit for burning. 10th. Ferruginruis marl, containing a great many madrepores and shells, (juite detached from the rock. 11th. The first quarry of limestone. 12th The second quarry of limestone. In the limestone of these two quarries, tlie strata, altliough separated by no intervening substance, are very perceptible, preserving an uniform direction. 13th. Several thin beds of limestone whicii are not worked. llth. At the distnnce of three or four hundred yards from No. 12, the assemblage of strata begins, which forms what is called the Black Rock, so called from the dark colour of the stone. 46 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. or denies tritores of fish, orthocera, &c. The bed 14, or the Black Rock, is that which was quarried for the construction of the boundary wall of the New Prison, and for pitching the streets of Bristol. It is a black fetid crenital marble, replete with crenital remains, palates, shells, and zoophytes. It has furnished me with some elegant specimens of the former now in my collection, which are described in my publication on Crinoidea. In this rock we also find cubic fluor, delicate sulphate of strontian, and a few quartz crystals. The beds 11 and 12 are quarried for burning lime, ship ballast, and wallstone. The bed 8 was once used for the same purpose, but is no A third quarry is worked here. This rock is less tinged with ochreous infiltrations than the rest usually are : it contains a great many sliells and entrochi, and in its cavities are found dog's tooth spar, cubes of purple fluor, acicular chrystals of sulphate of strontian, and of oxide of iron. Similar cavities occur in the rock of the preceding quarry. I5th. Many thin beds of limestone divided by clay, some being very full of shells and entrochi, and others having scarcely any traces of organic matter. Some of these strata, from the number of shells they contain, may be recognised again on the rising ground at the foot of Leigli Down, near the village of Leigh, on the southern side of the Avon. 16th. A thin bed of limestone breccia, containing rounded pebbles, and organized substances resembling the palates of fish. This bed has not been traced on the southern bank. 17th. Limestone highly crystallized, containing much iron, and composed in a great measure of organic 'natter. It is seen very distinctly on the northern bank of the river, cropping out amongst the wood, and resembling a wall about eight feet high. . The limestone of St. Vincent's Rocks, when calcined, yields a very pure lime : large quantities of it are exported for the use of the sugar works in tlie West Indies, in an unslacked state, and packed in tight casks, and it is used extensively for building. All the roads in the neighbourhood of Bristol are repaired with the limestone, as are those in the neighbourhood of Gloucester, whither it is conveyed by means of the Severn. GEOLOGY AROUND BRISTOL. 4^ longer worked, to preserve the elegant appearance of St. Vincent's Clift. The new road recently made, for the accommodation of the inhabitants of Clifton, along the riv^er side, passes over the beds 9 and 10 to Clifton Downs. Bed 3 is a lime- stoneof an Oolitic formation. Bed l,or the upper- most, is full of corals, and furnishes those Astrea and Caryophyllea, which find such a ready sale when polished, of which the latter go among the dealers by the name of sun stones. On the Mountain Lime, rests the Siliceous Iron, or mill- stone grit, which appears near the Hotwell House, and on which the greater part of Clifton is built. One of its lower beds appearing near Brandon Hill, of great extent, is used as a substitute for the Black Rock pitching stone. — - The upper bed, on which Clifton and Sir John Smyth's house stand, produces in its fissures those elegant Quartz Crystals, called Bristol Stone or Diamonds. These are found sometimes perfectly white, and of the various colours which oxide of iron is capable of producing ; and in them we find often acicular crystals and Gloubulse of Iron, as well as needles of Sulphate of Strontian. We pass over the coal beds, of which information may be acquired in several geological works, and come now to the Horizontal Strata, the lower one of which is the second Sandstone Red Rock Marl, or Grand Gypsum and Salt Formation, its lowest bed is the Magnesian Limestone, appearing at the ridge where Lord de Clifford's house stands, and at Clevedon ; Magnesian Breccia also occurs at Hungroad, Hamgreen, and Leigh, where large masses of Sulphate of Strontian, and Nodulee of Quartz Crystals are found, which probably derive their origin from the red loam. On this Magne- 48 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. sian Limestone, are very well written papers, by Dr. Bright, — Warburton, Esq. and Dr. Gilby, in the fourth vol. of Geological Transactions. On the red and yellow Second Sandstone, Bristol is chiefly built, it may be seen in the beds of the new river, and contains red and dull white Sul- phate of Strontian. Hollows occur in this bed which are filled up with alluvial matter, and near Cumberland Basin, on digging the canal, peat, the horns of a deer, and a number of oak trees were found. The blue and red Clay Stone be- longing to this formation appears at Aust Passage, containing Gypsum and Sulphate of Strontian. — In this place we see an elegant section of it, which explains admirably the geological term, a fault. The Oolite formation rests on the second Sandstone formation, its lowest stratum is the Lyas, which occurs abundantly in the neighbour- hood of Bristol, as at Redland, where it furnishes the beautiful Cotham landscape stone, at Hor- field, at Keynsham, where it contains the remains of the Ichthiosaurus. On the Lyas the inferior Oolite rests, which appears at Dundry, from whence very fine organic remains have been ob- tained, many of which are delineated in Sowerby's mineral conchology. A pleasant ride will also shew the inquirer the great Oolite near Bath, which is called the Bath freestone, so much used in building. The best and most instructive de- scriptions of the geology about Bristol, are published in the Geological Transactions, vol. 4 and 5, and New Series, vol. 1, where in- teresting papers, by Dr. Bright, G. Cumberland, Esq. the Rev. Conybeare, and Dr. Buckland, fur- nish most copious details. AN ENUMERATION OF SOME OF THE MOST INTER- ESTING COLEOPTERUS INSECTS FOUND IN THE ENVIRONS OF BRISTOL. Elaphrus uliginosus Bembidium flavipes ■ ustiilatum agile Spences Manuscript subg-lobosum Leach properans HofFsnianegg Clivina gibba ' sanguinea Harpalus apricarius Payk purpiiro-coerulea foraminulosus ■ — melanocephalus marginatus vestitus echinatus nigncomis Trechus suturalis Brachynus crepitans Echimuthus cyanocephalus Lebia quadriinaculata Cymindes humeralis Lolicera aenea Cychris rostratus Carabiis monillus Pogonophorus spinibarbis Dyticus punctulatus Colymbetes vitrea Noterus sparsusj Hydroporus 12 pustulata elegans Palobious hermanni Trachys minutus Elator pectinicornis ' cupreus ■ — riparius Elator bipustulatus • quadripustulatus Scirtes hemisphaerica Lycus inynutus Ophillus mollis Silplia uiortuorum Scaphidium quadrimaculatum Tcapliisoma agricium Goniodes accuminatus Osypores rufus Cypha rufipes StaMius biguttatus Siagonium quadricorne Ptilinus pectinicornis Onthophilus sulcatus Dendrophilus flavicornis Henterocenis Aphodius quadriinaculata Sinodendron cylindricum Melolontha bruneus Lucanus cervus Blaps violacea Melandria caraboides Leioides humeralis Oedemera ruficornis Platyrinus albinus Rhinosimus ruficornis B melius scabrosus Eurynchus nucum Rynchites populi Lamia textor populneus nebulosus hispidus vilosus Necydalis cocrulea Cerambyx moshotus Galarusca circumfusa 50 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. Chrysomela hemoptera goettingensis varians quinquejugis — hypereci populi Cryptocephalus sericeus lioeola Cryptocephalus moroei trilineatiu frontalis labiatus pussiliu Clythra quadripunctata Tritoma bipustulatiun A LIST OF LAND AND FRESH-WATER SHELLS FOUND IN THE ENVIRONS OF BRISTOL. The Names are those used by the Rev. Fleming, in his History of British Animals. Testacella Maugii haliotoidea Cyclostoma elegans CarocoUa lapicida Helix fusca (subrufescens, Miller) trochilus ericetorum virgata cantiana rufescens hispida aculeata nitida alliaria umbillicata • crystallina caperata rotundata costata aspersa arbustorum nemoralis hortensis Bulimus obscurus Larkhamensis lubrica Goodallii Achatina acicula Succinea putris Yitrina pellucida Pupa nmscorum inarginata juniperi pygm»a edentula Azeca tridens Carychium minimum fuscum Balea perversa Clausilia bidens perversa Limnea fossaria auricularia Physa fontinalis Aplesa hypnorum Planorbis spirorbis ■ contortu$ — albus — nitidus • vortex carinatus Ancylus fluviatilis lacustris Paludina tentaculata Neretina fluviatelis Acteon denticulatus Anodon anatinus Unio pictorum Cyclas corneas ■ amnicus SKETCH OF THE STRATA OF THE VICINITY OF BRISTOL, PRESENTED TO THE AUTHOR OF THIS TRACT, AS A GUIDE TO COLLECTORS, BY G. CUMBERLAND, ESQ. o N the right bank of the Avon, commencing at the Hotweli House, and extending to Cooke's Folly, the geological collector may procure a valuable series of specimens of every variety of Limestone, from the beds specified in Mr. Cumber- land's paper, published in 1817 and 1819, by the Geological Society ;^^ and on the debris of stone, produced by making the new road to the Downs from the Well House, much Magnesian Limestone Breccia is exposed, in which are found some peculiar corralloids, a few shells only, and encrinital re- mains, among which, in an interval of Schistous formation, the author first discovered that rare encrinital body, mentioned by Parkinson as coming only from Kentuckey, and perhaps Sligo, in Ireland. Another is also in the possession of Mr. Morgan of the Wells; only two have yet been seen. On the river side, near the Wells, have been found, but very rarely, in a Schistous coal mea- sure, a few s})ecimens of the coal plant, called by some, Euphorbium, a juncous pustulated leaf, and there almost always compressed. On the new road also was found, and is now in Mr. Cumberland's possession, a considerable mass of this character, weighing nearly half a ton ; and a branching piece, with the spiada attached — both are unique. The collector of extraneous fossils will find few organic bodies, except the Productuses and Corralloids, in the Limestone strata, although there are some beds which contain a few shells, ♦ S^ee 4th and 5th vols, of the Transactions. 52 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. until he comes to the Black Rock, now working, which is a mass that has acquired that tint from the abundance of organic remains imbedded in it, chiefly encrinital bodies of the iiave species, with their innumerable stems. Beyond that, about a quarter of a mile, he will come to a projecting point, issuing from the wood at Cooke's Folly, and nearly reaching to the river, where is a narrow stratum of Conglomerate Lime- stone, that is full of pallats and remains of fish, accompanied, in the wood, by a species of encri- nital remains, the stems of which are perforated with a channel of five sides, and which are peculiar to this bed, the heads of which have not as yet been traced. The opposite side contains always similar fos- sils, but being covered more by vegetation, they are less readily discovered ; in the wood, how- ever, among the debris, covered of old with moss, many things worth notice are often disclosed. On the Leigh side near Mr. Miles's, also may be seen a Conglomerate Limestone, and a vein of the old Red Sandstone, very narrow, is visible on the bank, just before you come to the great quarry on Mr. Miles's grounds, not far from the tea cottage. The Productus and Coralioids are also easily found on the open scar, just beyond the tea cottage, and farther on, opposite where the old lime-kiln was, in the rocks above are Paramoudra. Pro- ceeding on, at a quarry just facing the Hotwell walk, is the mine from whence almost all the Corralloids, called Poliferous came, and are still found near the surface of the rock, under tlie turf; many of them have been found of three or four feet diameter, although generally they do not exceed as many inches. In the little shops of STRATA OF THE VICINITY OF BRISTOL. 53 the dealers near, they will be found generally polished, and divided, to show the elegant interior. On this side also, near where the Paramoudras appear, sometimes are found Spongse in Limestone, of a very fine texture, but these are not common ; the most likely place to find them is on the scar before mentioned, near the tea cottage. On the top of Leigh Down, many Corralloids appear above the turf, or where it has been dug away. Bristol Stones, or Crystals of Pure Quartz, are only found where much iron has impregnated the rock, and the thicker and harder the mass, the purer is the crystal : the very purest have been found in crevices near the surface, on the waste road below Prince's-buildings. Common Spar Crystals of corbonate of lime, are found al- most every where in the cavities of the rocks. In the Hard Quartous Sandstone of Brandon Hill, are found specimens of juncous bodies, re- sembling Euphorbium in their markings, highly impregnated by iron ; these are in the rubble lying among the bushes there, also at Honey Pot Hill-'^ near, and sometimes on the rim of that peculiar strata, where it crosses out by the new road beyond the Hotwells. Many were found in making the new road from the Hotwells. At Downend, a village east of Bristol, near Stapleton, this Quartous compact Sandstone will be found near the surface, but not tinged at all by iron, containing many varieties of plants, and some ferns ; the greater part of which singularly differ from those which are in the softer or Pen- nant stone of the Stapleton quarries, which are • At Honey-pot hill quarry, last year, where found the long- «pined Productus in a decomiiosing V)ed of this millstone grit, as now called. F 2 54 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. chiefly aquatic, and very numerous. All the quar- ry-men can show them occasionally, who are con- stantly employed in preparing paving stones for Bristol. Juncous cane-like bodies, of several feet long, are frequently found there, and im- mensely large ones may be seen supporting the veranda of a cottage, once Stapleton turnpike, near the bridge going from Bristol to that village. At Gotham, near the surface, when any quar- ries are opened there, will be always found a White Lyas Limestone, full of dendrites, and also at Gotham lodge, the entrance gate-posts are com- posed of it. On the Horfield road are extensive quarries of White and Blue Lyas, from which Lime is burned, and in it some organic remains, but not manv. The Pinna Marina seems to belong peculiarly to that horizontal stratum and the clays which separate it. Plagiostima also are common. Near Gotham, under Portland Chapel, are con- stantly found Nodules of Stronthian, of all sizes, from a ton weight to a few pounds : they are bedded in light-coloured marl and clay about six feet under the sub-soil, and many have been turn- ed out of the graves; tliey are full of line crystals. The same are sometimes seen near Redland. Near the prison will be found, in the canal, Sandstone, immense crystals forming its margin, and a saddle back bank form, of one thousand yards long. In the quarries near Brislington are abundance of shells and juncous bodies ; some to the right of Dr. Fox's ground ; also all the way to Hanhani by the river side ; again by the river side at Stapleton. And a great quarry of hard Quartous Sandstorie near Lower 13erkeley-square to the right, and in the churchyard, called Honev-pot hill. STRATA OF THE VICINITY OF BRISTOL. 55 Among the rubbish of the new buildings at Clifton Crescents, masses of Corralloids, Fungi, and Juncous bodies, with spar in iron stone, but now more rare than formerly. In Sir John Smyth's park are some quarries where it is said good specimens of Spars have been obtained, such as the dog-toothed, rhombic, and quartous. At Kingsweston and at Leigh are found Potatoe- stones. Nodules, containing Quartz crystals, chiefly in ploughed fields. At Shirehampton is a gravel beech bed four feet from the surface, which, when dug, produces Fish-bones, Alcyonia, Teeth, Shells, and Corals. With this gravel Lord De Clifford's walks are coated. At Hambrook quarries are h'on-stone and Impressions of Plants. Stoke quarries, near Stapleton, have Fish-bones in them, and Shells, All the banks of the Froome, from Stapleton to Hambrook, are full of Shaly Sandstone, with Impressions of Plants. 'I'here are red Sandstone Caves under Redclift' churchyard from the river, of great extent ; as yet never traced to their end. Almost all the north side of Bristol is a hanging rock of hard quartous Sandstone, cragged at its serrated edge, with horizontal white Lyas depo- sitions, the walls of the gardens will show its extent ; it crops out under St. Michael's church- yard, and in other places in the street. Bristol old city is all on a red sandstone hill, without organic remains. The foot-paths of Bristol are Pennant ; a gritty, carbonacious coal-measure witli fossil plants — the improved steyned carriag-e- way is, as proposed by the author, a mixture of tlie Honey-pot hill, ferruginous, hard quartous millstone grit, and mountain Limestone broken very small — thereby avoiding noise, accidents, and the interruptions of paving. 56 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. A List of 100 rare British Plants, which are found in the environs of Bristol, by S. Rootsf.v, F. L. S. The Numbers refer to English Botany. ALLIUM oleraceum, 448, Sea Mills. Alopecurns bulbosus, 1249, St. Philip's. Anagallis cEerulea, 1823, llcrfield. Anchusa senipervirens, 45, Frenchay. Aquilegia vulgaris, 297, St. Vincent's Rocks. Arabis stricta, 614, St. Vincent's Rocks. hirsuta, 587, Leigh Wood. Arenaria media, under Giant's Hole. ' tenuifolia, 219, Foot of St. Vincent's Rocks. Asparagus officinalis, 339, below Sea Mills. Bromus madritensis, 1006, under Giant's Hole. secalinus, 1171, below Cooke's Folly. Bupleurum tenuissimum, 478, Sea Mills. Cardamine impatiens, 80, River Froome. Carex clandestina, 2124, St. Vincent's Rocks. digitata, 615, Leigh Woods. Cerastium tetrandruni, 166, Brandon Hill. Campanula latifo'ia, 302, F'renchay. Cynoglossum omphalodes, Frenchay. Chlora perfoiiata, 60, St. Vincent's Rocks. Colcliicuni autumnale, 133, Sea Mills. Conyza squarrosa, 1195, St. Vincent's Rocks. Coronopus didyma, 248, Kingi^wood. C'orydalis lutea, 5S8, Henbury. Dipsacus pilosus, 877, River Froome. Erigeron canadense, 2019, St. Vincent's Rocks. Erysimum cheiranthoides, 942, Kingsdown. Euphorbia Lathyris, 2255, Wickcliffs. Galium tricorne, 1641, Horfield. 'Witheringii, 2206, Leigh Down. Cialanthus nivalis, 19, Sea Mills. Gagea lutea, 21, Wick, Brislington. fientiana Amarella, 236, St. Vincent's Rocks. campestris, 237, Durdham Down. Geranium rotundifolium, 157, St. Vincent's Rocks. Habenaria bifolia, 22, Leigh AVoods. Helleborus viridis, 200, Leigh Down. Hutchinsia petrsea. 111, St. Vincent's Rocks. Hypericum dubium, 296, St. Vincent's Rocks. PLANTS FOUND IN THE ENVIRONS OF BRISTOL. 5'] Iinpatifins Nolifang'ere, 937, Fishponds. Inula Helenium, 1346, Bedminster. Iris ftt-tidlssima, 596, Sea Mills. Lactuca virosa, 1957, (iiant's Hole. Lamium niaculafum, 2350, Redland. Lathrffia squamaria, 50, Leigh Woods. Lathy rus aphaca, 1167, Bedminster. Lathynis sylvestris, 803, Crew's Hole. Leonurus Cardiaca, 286, Crew's Hole. Lepidium ruderale, 1595, by Floating Dock. Linaria Cymbalaria, 502, Clifton. spuria, 691, Horfield. purpurea, Bedminster and Stapleton. * Linum angustifolium, 381, Westbury. Lysimachia vulg'aris, 761, Baptist Mills. Melampyrum sylvaticxmi, 804, Wick. Melilotus omithopodiodes, 1047, St. Vincent's Rocks. Milium lendigerum, 1107, Hotwell House. Monotropa Hypopithys, 69, Leigh Wood. Nasturtium sylvestre, 2324, River Avon. Neottia spiralis, 541, Clifton Turnpike. Nephrodium Oreopteris, 1019, Leigh Wood. Qinanthe pimpinelloides, 347, River side. Ophrys apifera, 383, St. Vincent's Rocks. myodes, 64, Leigh Wood. Paris quadrifolia, 7, Stockwood. Phleum asperum, 1077, Kingsweston. Pimpinella dioica, 1209, St. Vincent's Rocks. Poa maritima, 1140, Riverside. procumbens, 532, Rownham ferry Polygonum Bistorta, 509, St. Philip's. Polypodium dryopteris, 616, Leigh Wood. Polypogon nionspeliensis, 1704, St. Vincent's Rocks. Potentilla verna, 37, St. Vincent's Rocks Pyrus pinnatifida, 2331, Leigh Woods. Ranunculus parviflorus, 120, Baptist Milk.. parvulus, below Cooke's Folly. Reseda alba, Clifton and Kingsdown. Rottboellia incurvata, 760, River side. Rubiaperagrina, 851, vt. Vincent's Rocks. Rumex sanguineus, 1533, Brandon Hill. Salvia, pratensis, 153, Wickcliffs. Scilla autumnalis, 78, behind Hotwell House. Scirpus acicularis, 749, Boiling Well. sylvaticus, 919, Boiling Well. * Not generally considered as British, but at Knightsbridge and Kensington, near London, it is also wild in abundance. 58 BEAUTIES OF CLIFTON. Sedum album, I57S, Frencbay. dasypbyUiini, 6jG, Hediuinsler and Clifton. rupestre, 170, St \inceiit"s Rocks. sexangulare, 1946, Frencbay. Sison segehini, '228, Sea .Mills. Sisymbrium murale, 1090, Brandon Hill. Smyraium olusatruni, 230, Giant's Hole. Trao;opogon porriiblius, 638, below Cooke's Folly Trifolium scrabrum. 903, behind Hotwell House. Veronica montana, 766, Stapleton, Redland. ■ bybrida, 673, Giant's Hole. spicata, 2, St. \ incent's Rocks. Victa bithynica, 1842, Bedininster. sylvatica, 79, I.eigb Wood. Vinca Minor, 917, Kingsweston. Viola hirta, 894, St. Vincent's Rocks. POST OFFICE REGULATIONS. 50 POST OFFICE REGULATIONS. The London Mail "oes out every afternoon, at 20 minutes past 5 o'clock, and arrives every day at 9 o'clock in the morning. Bath, out every morning at 7 and 10, and at ^0 minutes past 5 in the evening ; arrives at 9 morning, and a quarter before 5 and a quarter before 7 in the evening. Sodbury, through Stapleton, Ilanibrook, AVinterboume, and Iron Acton, goes out at 20 minutes before 10 in the morning; arrives at half-past 4 in the evening. Thornbury, through Filton, Almondsbury, and Rudgeway, goes out 20 minutes before 10 in the morning ; arrives at half-past 4 in the evening. Bitton, through New Church, Kingswood, Hanham, and Wills- bridge, goes out at 10 in the morning ; arrives at half-past 4 in the evening. Exeter and Westward, out every morning between 9 and 10 ; ar- rives every evening between 4 and 5. Portsmouth, Chichester, Salisbury,