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The great influx of English travellers has created an increased demand for luxuries and comfort, and prices have risen accordingly. In 1850 eatable food was a rarity even on the trunk roads of Norway, and travellers, unless provided with their own pro- visions, were liable to be inconveniently straitened by hunger. All this is now changed, and travelling, for gentlemen, is now as easy in Scandinavia as in the rest of Europe. Great engineering works have been carried out, hills cut down, embankments built, and magnificent roads made, where formerly little better than mere horse-tracks existed. Numerous railways have been opened, and the electric tele- graph is now in operation between all the chief towns, and the general continental system of Europe. In addition to this the steam communication has been greatly extended and improved, both on the fjords of the coast and on the great inland lakes. This Handbook endeavours to point out rather where lines of steamers exist, than to give the exact days and hours of their departure, which are liable to change, not only every year, but every month, as the dark autumn nights lengthen. The various changes alluded to have of course necessitated considerable alterations in the minor details of the Handbook, but on the whole the general plan of the former editions, which were most justly praised for their accuracy and com- pleteness, has been adhered to. The leading object of the book is to furnish useful and vi Preface, practical information derived from personal knowledge acquired in the countries described. Combined with this, in the Introduction to each Section, a very slight sketch has been given of the nature of the country, its products, and people, with their history, government, &c. ; in short, such matter as travellers may desire to know, in the most concise form. The Koutes have been carefully arranged so as to include all the towns, as well as the most 'picturesque scenery^ and the best salmon streams and shooting districts. The peculiar, but cheap and convenient mode of travelling in Norway and Sweden renders it essential to give the name and distance of every Stage. Upon the most picturesque Eoutes the scenery has been described somewhat in detail, in order that tourists may know where they may expect to find the class of subjects most pleasing to them, for the true mode to enjoy the country (particularly in Norway) is to travel leisurely, stopping at the most desirable places to explore the surrounding scenery. In several of the Koutes repetitions have been advisedly made for the convenience of travellers, few of whom have either the leisure or inclination to peruse those Eoutes which they do not take. The Eoutes are laid down and numbered in an Index Map, as in the former edition. In Denmark, Norway, and Sweden the requisite travelling Maps are published at very reasonable prices. All pains have been taken to render this edition as com- plete, accurate, and concise as possible ; but in a book of this class allowances for errors and omissions must be made ; OP THESE IT IS hoped THAT FUTURE TRAVELLERS WILL OBLIGINGLY MAKE NOTES, as it is ouly by such means that the perfect accuracy, completeness, and consequent usefuhiess of a Hand- book can be obtained. London^ 1871, CONTENTS. GENERAL INTRODUCTION. Books upon Scandinavia . . xvi Carriages xix Clothes and Luggage . . . . xix Ladies' Clothes xix Maxims and Suggestions . . xiv Money xvii Passports xvii Scandinavia and its attractions for Tourists . . . . . . . . xi Skeleton Tours xxi Sundries .. .. xx Travelling Servants . . . . xviii SECTION L DENMAKK, WITH SLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. Introductory Information ROUTES. *** ''he names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where they are described. EOUTE PAGE Geniral Observations .. ..21 1. Londai to Copenhagen by Lvkclz (by land or by sea) .. 21 2. Londai to Copenhagen by Ham- bu)'(f Altona, Kiel, and Kor- sor' 25 3. Londm to Copenhagen by Ham- burg Altona, Flensborg, and the Oanish Islands . . . . 30 3 A. Fleisborg to Copenhagen, by Steamer to Korsd>\ or by Nonh Sleswig, Kolding, Fre- derviaf Odense^ to Kot^sor . . 39 ROUTE PAGE 4. Copenhagen .< ..43 5. Sealand .. ..• 61 a. Environs of Copenhagen . . 62 h. Flsinore, Fredriksborg, and North Sealand 64 c. Roeskilde, with Central and West Sealand 71 d. South Sealand^ Moen^ LoU land, Falster 76 6. Bornholm 79 7. Fyen 83 8. Jutland 84 9. Iceland 101 CONTENTS. SECTION 11. NORWAY. Introductory Information ROUTES. BOrTE PAGE 20. London to CAm^tama .. .. 65 21. Christiania to Bergen (a) over Ringeriget and the Fille Fjeld^Leirdahoren [Justedal, Sogne Fjord] , Gudvangen [V'orning FosJ, Vossevangen, Hardanger Fjord .. .. 75 2 1 A. From Bergen to the Sogne Pjord, Justedal Glacier, and Hardanger Fjord, by Utriey Eosendal 98 22. Bergen to Christiania (b) by Leiidalsoren, through Hal- lingdal and Hemsedal . . . . 99 _ '). Christiania to Bergen (c) through Drammen, Kongs- herg^ over Tellemarken^ and the Hardanger 102 24. Christiania to Hammerfest and the North Cape: Aalesund ; Christiaiisund ; Levanger. Visit to the Lapps. The Nainsen ; Loffoden Islands. Round the coast by land .. 114 25. Christiania by Steamboat round the coast to Trondhjem, Ham- merfest, and Vadso in East Finmark 146 26. Christiania to Trondhjem by Rail to Eidsvold, thence by Steamer over the Miosen Lake to Lilleluimmerf through Gudbrandsdaly and over the Docro Fjcld (Sneehceiten) ., 152 27. Christiania to Trondhjem, over Ringeriget to Lillehammer.. 169 28. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hurdalen on the W. side of the Miosen Lake 169 BOUTR PAGE 29. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hedemarken on the E. side of the Miosen Lake .. .. 171 30. Christiania to Molde, Aalesund, and Christiansund, over the Miosen Lake, and through Gudbrandsdalen and R«ms- dalen 171 31. Christiania to Trondhjem over Osterdalen, up the vallty of the Glommen, and through Roraas 175 32. Christiania to Trondlijem through Kongsvinger, and up the Valley of the Glommm.. 178 33. Trondhjem to Stockh|>lm, through Vserdal and Siiids- vall .. .. ^.. .. I .. 179 Alten to Torned and Mpa- randa (at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia), by Riv^ or by Land, in Winter or Sum- mer I .. 181 Christiania to Stockhdm, through Kongsvinger^ |Vr- vika, Carlstadt, and by the N. of the Wenern lAke (Rail) 190 36. Christiania to Stockholm, by Frederikshald and the Si of the Wenern Lake .. .. 191 37. Christiania to Helsingb(|rg, through Gottenburg .. .. 195 38. Leirdalsoren (in Rte. 21) to Romsdalen (in Rte. 30) (I'er the Sogne F'jeld and Haam- gen Fjeld 196 39. Christiania to Hambursr, in Winter ^ .. 198 34. 35 CONTENTS. SECTION III. SWEDEN. Introductory Information KOUTES. ROUTE PAGE 62. London to Stockholm via Ham- burg, Copenhagen, and Elsi- nore, or direct to Gothenburg 46 63. Copenhagen to Gothenhurg . . 48 64. Stockholm 50 65. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by Railway 69 QQ. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by the Gotha Canal, Lakes Ma- lar, Weneim, and Wetteni — Falls of Trolhdttan .. .. 75 67. Stockholm to Christiania, by Carlstad and Arvika — Rail- way 83 68. Stockholm to Malmd, by Jon- hoping, Wexio, Christian- stad, Ystad, Ilclsingborg, and Lund 85 69. Stockholm to Christianstadt, along the coast, by Norr- koping, Calmar, and Carls- hrona 94 70. Hel&ingborg, along the West Coast, to Halmstad, Gothen- burg, and Fredrikshald .. 90 71. Gothenburg to Trolh'dttan, Wenersborg, and Carlstad, by Land 102 EOUTB PAGE 72. Stockholm to Falun, by Wes- teii-s 104 73. Stockholm to Falun, by Smed- jebachen 106 74. Stockholm to Upsala (Rail), the Dannemora Iron Mines, Gefle, the Copper Mines at Falun, and the Porphyry Works at Eifdal in Dale- carlia, by Steamer or Rail way 75. Stockholm to Tiondhjem, by Sundswall and Oster-sund . . 76. St. Petersburg to Stockholm . . 77. Stockholm to Orehro and ad- jacent Mining Districts 78. Uddervalla to Norrkoping, by Jonkoping and Linkoping . . 79. Stockholm to Wishy and the Island of Gotland . . 80. Stralsund, Stettin, or Lubeck, to Malmo or Stockholm .. 81. Stockholm to Haparanda, by Gefle, Luled, and Torned, by Land, and by Steamer up the Baltic 132 82. Lulea to Quickjock (Lapland) 139 107 119 121 .. 122 124 128 131 HANDBOOK FOB DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. GENERAL INTRODUCTION. 1. — Scandi7iavia and its Attractions for Tourists. — 2. — Maxims and Suggestions, — 3. Boohs upon Sca7idinavia. — 4. Passports. — 5. Money. — 6. Travelling Servants, — "7. Carriages, — 8. Clothes and Luggage, — 9. Skeleton Tours, 1, — Scandinavia and its Attractions to Tourists. Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, comprise those territories whicli are known as Scandinavia-^o. somewhat antiquated name, but which the increasing interest in the Scandinavian race, and their literature, has of late years revived ; it is also useful for its comprehensiveness in speaking of the three kingdoms. Prior to the 10th century Scandinavia was the region of romance — of the wildest legends ; but even the earliest periods of her history are intimately connected with England, and abound in interest. The conquests and discoveries accomplished by the energy and heroic bravery of the ancient Scandinavians during the 10th and 11th cen- turies were not only most extensive, but have left a permanent impress upon the character and institutions of great part of central Europe, and particularly in the British Islands. They made conquests, and esta- blished themselves not only in England, Ireland, and Scotland, as well as Russia and Spain, but also in France, where the whole province of Normandy was subsequently ceded to them ; and they even carried their victorious arms to the furthest portions of the Mediterranean, long prior to the conquests of their Norman descendants in Sicily and Lombardy.* * Histoire des Republiques Italieimes, piv Sismondi, v. i. c. 4, iLli § 1. SCANDlNAVlA ANt> ITS AtTKACTlOi^S FOb TOtJtllSTfc^. Their discoveries include not only Iceland and Greenland, but New- foundland, and a great portion of the continent of North America, in the commencement of the 11th century, ages before Columbus crossed the Atlantic. A colony was planted there with which com- munications were at times kept up so late as the latter half of the 14th century, from which time it was lost sight of, and nothing mere was heard of America till the discoveries of Columbus were made. The minute details which exist in the ancient Icelandic sagas and old Scandinavian historians, appear to leave no room for doubt as to the first discovery of America having been made by Scandinavians or their descendants.* The * Antiquitates Americanse,' published at Copenhagen in Danish, Icelandic, and Latin, and the numerous publications of the Societe Koyale des Antiquaires du Nord, also published at Copenhagen, throw much light on what is called the ante-Columbian history of America. It is believed that the Northmen penetrated along the coast as far to the South as Florida, which they called Hvitramannaland. The modern history of Scandinavia is likewise replete with interest, and will be briefly noticed in its proper place. I'ill quite lately very erroneous ideas prevailed in England as to the climate of Sweden and Norway. Snow and ice rapidly disappear, even in Norway, from the beginning of May, and by the end of that month the white garb of winter is exchanged for the verdant mantle of summer, which lasts to the end of August ; and during this time snow is rarely to be seen, except upon the tops of the highest mountains. The best months for travelling are June, July, and August. The month of June is often rather early for Norway ; on the other hand. May and September are, in favourable years, very agreeable in Denmark, where the trees often retain their foliage beautifully tinted till the close of October. But these two months are as often cold and stormy. The summers are usually much finer and steadier than in England (except on the W. coast of Norway), and are at times excessively hot ; but the air is so clear, so invigorating and bracing, that the heat is never oppressive, except in some of the deep ravines of Norway. Nowhere is the overwrought mind or body likely to derive greater or so great benefit from travelling, as in Scandinavia, where the climate in summer is delicious, the facilities so great, the scenery grand, and the people so honest and obliging. It is generally believed that ladies cannot travel in Scandinavia; nothing can be more erroneous. Throughout Denmark, Sweden, and * Dunham's History of Denmark, &c., v. ii. p. 23. § 1. SCANDINAVIA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS FOll TOURISTS. xill Norway, there are good steamboats constantly running during summer, between all the chief places upon the coasts. All the superior officers of these steamers speak English. Upon all the principal roads there are regular stages, at which horses may be obtained, and station-houses for the accommodation of travellers. At some of these station-houses the accommodation is tolerable, at many of them wretched ; but, with a little management, the best places may be selected for resting at ; and any lady really fond of travelling will consider the spare diet, and other little hardships she may be exposed to, amply repaid by the climate and scenery. As regards expense, travelling in Scandinavia is, if not much cheaper, certainly not more expensive than in most parts of Europe, though prices have risen considerably, particularly in Norway. The voyage across the North Sea might well deter numbers of travellers from visiting Scandinavia; but the railway communication is now so complete, that there is no necessity for any further sea- voyage than the crossing of the Channel, and. of smaller or greater parts of the Baltic. In that tideless sea, during summer, there is rarely much motion ; and the voyages across it, at that period, are usually of the most agreeable description. The Handbook for Northern Germany contains full descriptions of all the land-routes as far as Hamburg and the various German ports on the Baltic. The modern Norwegian and Danish languages are the same; but in the remote parts of Norway the dialects of each valley differ con- siderably from each other, sometimes approaching the old Norse, or Icelandic. The Swedish differs from the Danish so little, that those understanding the one can, with a little patience and trouble, soon make out the other. They differ rather more from each other than English and Lowland Scotch. In Denmark, German and English are extensively spoken amongst the upper classes. In Norway, English ; and in Sweden, French. Both the Danish and Swedish languages bear so strong an affinity to the English, that they are not found difficult to acquire. To the naturalist, the flora of Scandinavia, and the geology and mineralogy of Norway and Sweden, abound in interest. The lover of ancient church architecture Avill find ample amusement in the nume- rous examples which exist in the island of Gottland, where the churches are an unexplored mine of interest to the lover of Gothic architecture. In Norway and the mainland of Sweden there are likewise a few- antique churches, such as those at Trondhjem, Borgund, Stockholm, Upsala, &c. The lakes and rivers of Norway and Sweden abound in xiv § 2. MAXIMS AND SUGGESTIONS. fish, and comprise some of the finest salmon streams in Europe. The bear, elk, red and rein deer, with a large variety of winged game and wild fowl, are also met with in Norway and Sweden. The splendid, and in some respects unique, museums of Copenhagen cannot fail to attract many travellers. The scenery of Denmark is generally too flat ; but its forests of beech and oak are magnificent, and some of the views on the W. coast are highly picturesque. The scenery in some parts of the W. of Norway is sublime, inferior in point of magnitude to Switzerland, but more pic- turesque for the pencil, while the gorgeous sunsets and long twilight give mysterious and poetic effects which are wondrously beautiful. With respect to the people, nowhere will the English traveller experience greater attention, civility, and even kindness, than in Scandinavia, particularly in Norway. In point of security from robbery or violence, the traveller in Scan- dinavia will be probably much safer than in England; and there is no instance upon record of any one being attacked by bears or wolves in summer, unless these animals have been wounded or their young taken. Norway and the N. of Sweden are admirably adapted for pedestrian expeditions, and in no part of Europe can such splendid scenery be traversed at so small a cost. The average expenses of a pedestrian Would probably not exceed 2s. 6d. a day throughout the rural districts of Sweden and Norway, and about 5s. in the towns. The Duchies of Sleswig and Holstein belong to Prussia since 1864, but as one of the principal routes to Copenhagen traverses them, they will be described in connection with Denmark, to which country they formerly belonged and are closely related in their general character, history, and i)artly (North Sleswig) in the nationality of the inhab- itants. 2i— Maxims and Suggestions. Many people start upon a tour without any determined route, leaving that to accident or fancy. This is unwise. If the objects desired to be attained in a journey be well considered, and the route arranged to embrace them, and that route be adhered to in its main points, much time, trouble, and expense ate avoided. The mind is thus left at rest to gather information and amusement from day to day, instead of being in a continual bewilderment of inquiry and uncertainty as to future movements ; and friends at home in doubt and anxiety as to where their letters should be addressed. Every traveller on leaving home must make up his mind to be § 2. MAXIMS AND SUGGESTIONS. XV imposed upon to some extent ; at times covertly, at others openly, but nowhere will he be less exposed to this than in Scandinavia. It is a mistake to imagine that every one is trying to impose upon you, and in Scandinavia, particularly, it is most unjust. That instances of im- position do occur there, is true ; but they are chiefly to be attributed to the folly of the English, who generally pay whatever is demanded of them without stopping to consider the propriety of the demand. " It is not sufficient for a pleasant excursion that the traveller has money enough to meet his expenses. The comfort which an English- man, who understands the word better than any other, is likely to enjoy in an excursion in lands where the language, manners, and customs are so different from his owti, will greatly depend on his carrying with him a ready stock of good temper and forbearance, which have more certain cuiTency than gold in the purchase of civilities, and efforts to please. A man will see more, enjoy more, and learn more by carrying with him his head and his heart in good travelling trim, than can be obtained by having his pockets full of letters of credit without this necessary state of mind and feelings. It is a fact deeply to be regretted that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen think, if they leave home with money they can command anything ; that it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts to oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. The presumption of our countrymen is proverbial on the Continent ; for* tunately, the exceptions are numerous, and we are spoken of as an unaccountable people, when some men of unquestionable character and fortune display examples of suavity and true gentility which cannot be surpassed on earth ; the foreigner is thus puzzled to know how to estimate our national character. It is a vulgar prejudice that all foreigners cheat the English, and that caution is necessary to guard against the constant attempts to oveiTeach them. That some such characters are met with cannot be denied ; but those whose rapacity is made thus to characterize a class, have often been created by the meanness and prejudices, and thoughtless extravagance of the travellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with that you must be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges, and any deviation from them is soon detected ; but it too often happens that things are demanded by the traveller which are very expensive or difficult to procure : the charge for these is protested against as extravagant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of the grumbler. Firmness in not paying more than is customary, unless such extra- ordinary trouble has been given, will always succeed ; and good humour will lower a bill more readily than violence." — Brochedon. XVi §. 3 BOOKS UPOI^ SCANDINAVIA. Think well of all that is likely to be wanted for the journey, and be prepared with it in good time ; this is particularly requisite as to clothes and luggage, passport, money, handbooks, and maps, &c. Leave nothing to the last; much of the comfort of a journey depends on starting well. 3. — Books upon Scandinavia. It is always a great advantage and additional pleasure to be ac- quainted with the language of the country we are visiting ; but as few persons will, perhaps, take the trouble to study Danish or Swedish, they should at least, as a preparation for visiting Scandinavia, acquaint themselves with some of the works upon it. The following is a Ust of those most likely to be found useful as well as interesting : — AcERBi. Travels through Sweden, Finland, and Lapland in 1798 and 1799. 2 vols. 4to. 1802. Alpine Journal, passim, 1865-71. Beamish. Discovery of America by the Northmen, in the 10th century. 1 vol. 8vo. 1841. Bremner. Excursions in Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. 2 vols. 8vo. 1840. Brooke, be Capell. Travels through Sweden, Norway, and Finmark, to the North Cape. With Plates. 1 vol. 4to. 1823. Brooke, de Capell. A Winter in Lapland and Sweden. With Plates and Map. 1 vol. 4to. 1827. BucH, Von, Travels through Norway and Lapland in 1806-7-8. With Maps and Physical Sections. From the German. 1 vol. 4to. 1813. Clarke, Dr. Travels in various Countries in Europe, &c. &c. Part 3rd. Scandinavia. 2 vols. 4to. 1819 and 1823. CoxE. Travels in Poland, Kussia, Sw^eden, and Denmark. 5 vols. 8vo. 5th edition. 1802. Lord Dufferin. Letters from High Latitudes. London. 1857. Dunham. History of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway (part of Dr. Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia). 3 vols. 12mo. 1839. Elliott. Letters from the North of Europe, or a Journal of Travels in Holland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, &c. 1 vol. 8vo. 1832. Everest. Journey through Norway, Lapland, and part of Sweden, with Remarks on the Geology of the Country. 1 vol. 8vo. 1829. *FoRBES, Prof. James. Norway and its Glaciers. Edinburgh. 1853. Forester's Norway in 1848 and 1849. London. 1850. Geyer. Histoire de Suede. Translated from the Swedish. 1 vol. Paris. 1844. Laing. Journal of a Eesidence in Norway during 1834-5-6. 1 vol. 8vO. 1836, § 4. PASSPORTS — § 5. MONEY. Xvii Laing. Denmark and the Duchies. London. 1852. Laing. a Tour in Sweden in 1838. 1 vol. 8vo. 1839. Latham. Norway and the Norwegians. 2 vols. 12mo. 1840. Letters from the Shores of the Baltic. 1 vol. 12mo. 1845. Lloyd. Field Sports in the North of Europe. 2 vols. 8vo. 1830. Mabryat. Jutland and the Danish Isles. 2 vols. 1860. Marryat. Two Years in Sweden. Metcalfe's Oxonian in Norway. London. 1856. MiLFORD. Norway and her Laplanders in 1841. 1 vol. 8vo. 1842. Porter, Sir K. Ker. Travelling Sketches in Kussia and Sweden. Illus- trated with coloured Plates. 2 vols. 4to. 1809. Price, Ed. Norway. Views of Wild Scenery. 1 vol. 4to. 1834. Smith, Kev. A. Views in Sweden and Norway, with descriptive Letter- press. 1 vol. M'Lean. 1847. Sylvanus. Kambles in Sweden and Gottland. 1 vol. 8vo. 1847. Taylor, Bayard. Northern Travel. Summer and Winter Pictures of Sweden, Lapland, and Norw^ay. London. 1858. Thomson. Travels in Sweden during the Autumn of 1812. Illustrated with Maps and Plates. 1 vol. 4to. 1813. Two Summers in Norway, by the Author of " The Angler in Ireland." (Mr. Belton.) 2 vols. 8vo. 1840. Walton and Bonney. Coast Scenery of Norway. Folio. 1871. Zeigler*s Views on the West Coast of Norway, with Costumes of the Pea- sants, and descriptive Letter-press, from the Journal of the Duke of Rutland. 1 vol. M'Lean. 1848. 4. — Passports. Although no passport is now required for entering the territory of any of the states of Western Europe or Scandinavia, a passport should always be taken as a means of establishing the identity of the travellers, which may become necessary, particularly if he leaves the beaten track of travellers. As the regulations obtaining in different countries are different, and even differ in the same country with regard to subjects of different states, and as moreover changes are constantly occurring, it would be difficult to give perfectly reliable information in this respect, and the traveller will do best in employing one of the passport agencies in London to obtain for him the required visas, etc. 5. — Money. The money changers in Hamburg are most extortionate. The best plan for travellers passing through that city to Scandinavia, is therefore only to part with so much gold and notes as will suffice to pay the expenses to the capital of the country of destination, and on arriving there to get a supply of money of the country, which, though always Xviii § 6. TRAVELLING SERVANTS. obtainable in Hamburg, is charged highly for, even by the bankers, in addition to their commission. A traveller should always furnish himself with money of the country immediately he enters it. If he does not do so, but pays in foreign money instead, it is sure to entail a considerable loss, besides leading to disputes about price and value. Letters of credit or circular notes afford the best mode of taking money abroad, and are now issued by most of the leading bankers in London ; any banker not doing so will obtain them for his regular customers. Letters of credit contain a printed list of the banker's cor- respondents in each of the chief towns in Europe, and enable the bearer to draw the whole or any of his credit when and how he jjleases ; and, as the London bankers stand in high repute upon the Continent, any banker or merchant, though not named in the letter, is usually most glad to advance money upon it, charging the usual commission of IL per cent, which should cover postages, &c. If circular notes are taken, they should not be for larger sums than 201, each. No commission is charged upon them, as the London banker has the amount remaining in his hands till the notes fall due ; but postage and stamps are charged, and bring it to about the same expense as drawing under a letter of credit. As all the Scandinavian paper money is issued by the respective Governments, it may be taken with perfect security ; and for large amounts, such as those for which gold would be taken in England, is preferable to silver. Gold is most rarely seen in Scandinavia. English money, either in notes or gold, is often sold at a loss, which in some parts of Sweden and Norway becomes considerable ; therefore bills drawn upon letters of credit are the best to rely upon, and next to these circular notes. 6.— Travellinq Servants. Avoid taking English servants to Scandinavia, and particularly Women, as they would prove a far greater trouble than comfort. Few, if any, regular couriers speak Danish or Swedish, and would therefore be also useless. But at Copenhagen, Gottenburg, Stockholm, and Christiania, there are men who speak English, and have been much accustomed to travel with gentlemen, chiefly upon sporting expeditions in Norway and Sweden. These persons drive well, prepare the Forbud papers, cook, and are particularly useful. They are paid about 4s. 6d. a day, besides their lodging, and travelling expenses. It is difficult to procure a good interpreter in Trondhjem. No gentleman should take a lady into the interior of Norway or ' § 7. CARRIAGES — § 8. CLOTHES AND LUGGAGE. XIX Sweden without knowing something of the language himself, or having a servant who understands it. In going to Norway it is best to hire a servant at Copenhagen or Gottenburg, as it is often difficult to obtain one in Christiania. It is advisable to have a written agreement with these men before starting, and in case of not returning to the place where they were engaged, it is well to make a particular arrangement about their return. 7. — Carriages. Most English carriages would be useless in Scandinavia. The best plan is to hire or buy what may be requisite in the country, as they are very cheap, and can easily be repaired in case of accident. 8. — Clothes and Luggage. Some people consider that "any old clothes will do for travelling ;" this is a mistake, and especially if the journey be a long one, as, apart from appearance, old clothes frequently require repairing at most inconvenient times and places. A travelling suit, however coarse the material, should ' be new and strong. No more clothes should be taken than are essential, as in case of need others can always be purchased. In fact, one stout leather trunk or box, of about 28 inches long by 14 wide, and 12 deep, ought to contain all that can be wanted, and is by far the most convenient size and shape for the North; if fitted with a tray 6 inches deep, it will be found better than a port- manteau. For Norway it is desirable to take either a pair of saddle- bags connected by a broad band of leather and buckles, or a very large knapsack of fustian macintosh. They are most useful in making expeditions across the mountains where nothing larger can be taken. All articles of luggage should be waterproof. Ladies who visit Scandinavia must, for the time, be content to abandon their bonnet-boxes, and reduce the wardrobe within the limits of such a trunk or box as that above specified. Carpet-bags should be avoided for the North, but waterproof bags of the same shape and size are useful in steamers, and in carriole travelling can be carried either between the feet or slung beneath the carriole ; when stopping for one night only, they often save the trouble of unstrapping the box. Of course, the bag should not be too large, if intended to be carried in either of the above modes. The total weight of each person's baggage should not exceed 50 lbs. All beyond that must be paid for by those who travel by railways abroad, and other public conveyances, XX § 8. CLOTHES AND LUGGAGE. except steamers, and is very inconvenient to transport by the light carriages of the country. Clothes, — Two suits are amply sufficient : a new and strong one, all of woollen material, for every-day use, and another for towns. The socks or stockings should be worsted, as cotton soon blisters the feet in walking. A gentleman travelling without any " dear mother, wife, or sister " to grumble at in case of his being so ill-used a man as to find a button off his shirt, should be prepared with the requisite materials to supply the defect himself. Shoes or boots should be double-soled and well nailed for every-day use. Caps are so generally worn by gentlemen upon the Continent that a hat is quite unnecessary. Those who prefer a hat will do well to take no hat-box, to have the hat made low in the crown, and with a broad brim. For wraps a loose pea-jacket of stout cloth, collar made high and to fit the neck well ; a light glazed mackintosh cape, coming a little below the hip joint ; a Scotch plaid of the largest and coarsest kind is invaluable; and to these should be added a pair of stout sheepskin gloves, and another of woollen. Sundries. — A brandy flask, some straps, a ball of twine, and parch- ment directions. An india-rubber cushion is invaluable : it serves as a pillow by night, and eases the jolting of the carriole by day. A portable india-rubber bath is a great luxury, when there is room to carry it. Also pieces of gauze or muslin to tie over the hat or cap and round the neck (to keep off mosquitoes, which at times are a great nuisance for fishing or shooting). Two veils hanging from the hat, and fastened at the sides and round the neck, are perhaps the best protection. Also leather gauntlets, such as ladies use in gardening, which protect the wrists when fishing. Cold cream scented with spirits of turpentine, or, if that is not to be had, butter, or grease of any kind, is good to keep them off or relieve the bites. When a lady is of the party, it will be found a great comfort to have a very strong umbrella, of about 33 inches long, covered with brown holland, which in Norway is the best protection against the great heat of the mid-day sun, and also the heavy rains in the mountains. A gun-case should be secured from wet by a tarpaulin cover. Fishing- rods are best protected by a case of stout sole leather, the top being secured with a small padlock. A light hunting-whip for driving will be useful. The sportsman must not forget a telescope. A few small English books, fine knives and scissors, fish-hooks, razors, shaving-brushes, or packets of needles, will be found useful for presents, and take little room ; in those places where it is absolutely requisite to claim hos- pitality of the clergy and merchants it is impossible to offer any pecuniary return. §. 9 SKELETON TOURS. Xxi Anglers should take everything they require with them from England, as none of the implements of " the gentle art " are to be met with in the North. And the same applies to all kinds of sketching materials. A few simple medicines had better be taken. Ladies' Clothes. — The travelling dress should be of strong fabric, Scotch spun-silk, or some very light woollen material. The hat of stout straw, which should have two covers with wide curtains for the neck. One of such covers of any light material to keep off the sun and dust ; the other of macintosh, for rain, as umbrellas are often use- less in the mountains. Stout boots and a pair of goloshes for wet decks are useful. For wraps, the best are a Scotch plaid, of the largest and coarsest sort. A jacket of sealskin or cloth, and wadded; and a large cloak with sleeves and cape — it should be made to fit the neck well, like a man's, and be of the lightest waterproof material, with a loose lining of thin woollen ; this is essential, as the rains are sudden and heavy in the mountains. Thus provided, a lady is quite safe in the heaviest rains in boats, or riding. 9. Skeleton Tours. Partial Tour of Scandinavia, which may be accomplished in 5 months, from the end of April to 30th of September, allowing sufficient time to rest at the different places of most interest. Denmarli. — From England by either of the routes given, to Ham- burg ; thence, Route 3, to Rendsborg, Sleswig, Flensborg, and ex- cursions from these places ; thence by sea to Korsor and Copenhagen. Excursions from thence to Elsinore, Moeri; tour through Sealand, Fyen, and Jutland, and back to Copenhagen. For all this 5 weeks should be allowed. Sweden. — From Copenhagen to Malmo, Lund, Ystad, Carlskrona, Kalmar, Westervik, WiSby, in Gothland, back to Westervik, Soderkciping, by the Gotha Canal, Route QQ, to Goth- enburg. Allow 3 weeks. Norway, — By land from Gothenburg to Frederiksbald, the Falls of the Glommen and Frederikstad ; thence by water to Christiania ; Drammen, Kongsberg, the Riukan- Fos, and back to Kongsberg; thence over the Fille Fjeld to Bergen; seeing the Voring-Fos, Hardanger Fjord, &c., en route. From Bergen by water to the Sugne Fjord ; thence by land, Route 24, to Molde, by steamer to Trondhjem and Hammerfest, boat to North Cape, back to Trondhjem. Circuit from thence, over the Dovre Fjeld, down Romsdalen, Route 30, and up the coast, Route 24, back to Trondhjem. Allow 2 months. Sweden. — By Route 33, to Sundswall, Dalecarlia, and Upsala, Route 74, Stockholm and environs, Lubeck, Hamburg, England. Allow a month; in all 5 months. Xxii § 9. SKELETON TOUES. 2. Tour of 3 months, from 1st June to end of September. Denmarh.—From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Copenhagen ; excur- sions to Moen, Malmo, and Lund, return to Copenhagen ; Koeskilde, Elsinore. Allow 16 days. Norway. — Steamer to Christiania, to va- rious places as in last tour, as far as Molde ; from thence continue by Route 24 to Trondhjem, then over the Dovre Fjeld, Route 26, down Romsdalen and back, through Gudbrandsdalen to Christiania. Steamer to Frederikstad, Falls of the Glommen, Frederikshald. Allow 42 days. Sweden. — From Frederikshald by land to Gotten- burg ; by Gotha Canal, land at Soderkoping ; Westervik, Wisby, Stockholm, and environs; Upsala, back to Stockholm, Wismar, Lubeck, Hamburg, England. Allow a month ; in all 3 months. 3. Tour of 2 months, from 1st August to 30th September. Norway. — From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Christiania. Over the Fille Fjeld to Bergen, seeing the Voring-Fos, &c., en route, back to Christiania by the south road. Route 22 ; steamer to Falls of the Glommen and Frederikshald. Allow 33 days. Sweden. — By Falls of Trollhattan, and Route 64, to Stockholm, environs, and Up- sala. Steamer to Ystad, Lund, Malmo. Allow 17 days. Denmarh. — Copenhagen and environs ; home direct by St. Petersburg steamer, or by Hamburg. Allow 11 days ; in all 2 months. 4. Tour of 5 months through Norway, from 1st May to 30th September. From England to Hamburg, Kiel, Gothenburg; by land to Fre- derikshald, Falls of Glommen, Frederikstad ; water to Christiania ; water to FrederiksvsBrn, Route 25 ; land. Route 24, to Stavanger, across the mountains to Route 23, the Voring-Fos, Kongsberg, Drammen ; over the Fille Fjeld, Route 21, to Bergen, making excur- sions to the Sogne Fjeld, Route 38, the Justedal Glaciers, Yoring- Fos, and Hardanger Fjord, &c., en route ; water to Sogne Fjord, land by Molde and Christiansund to Trondhjem and the Namsen ; steamer to Hammerfest ; boat to the North Cape and back to Trondhjem ; over the Dovre Fjeld, excursions from Jerkin, Route 26, to Rorass, and Sneehattan ; down and up Romsdalen, Route 30 ; by Gudbrandsdalen to Christiania, Copenhagen, England. 5. Tour of 5 months through Sweden, from 1st of May to end of September. From England to Hamburg, Lubeck, Ystad, Malmo, Lund, Hel- singborg ; steamer to Gothenburg, or by land ; Gotha Canal round by Carlstad, and land at Soderkoping, Westervik, Wisby, and round Gothland, Stockholm, and environs ; Upsala and Dalecarlia, Falun, Gefle ; steamer up coast of Gulf of Bothnia and back to Stockholm, Sodertelje, Nykoping, Norrkoping, Linkoping, Eksjo, Kalmar, the island of Oland, Carlskrona, Carlshamn, Ystad, Lubeck, Hamburg (or from Ystad to Copenhagen, and by the St. Petersburg steamer to) England. G. Yachting trip to W. coast of Norway ; best time for being there July and § 9. SKELETON TOURS. Xxiii August. Some of the grandest scenery is to be found in the upper parts of the great fjords,, and a little distance inland from them. From England to the Hardanger Fjord, S. of Bergen. The Folge Fond, Ostud-Fos, Voring-Fos, &c. Send yacht round to Leirdals- oren in the Sogne Fjord. Cross on horseback, or by carriole, from the N.E. of the Hardanger Fjord to Vossevangen, and on to Gud- vangen ; by boat to Leirdalsoren. Ascend to Nystuen on the Fille Fjeld, return to Leirdalsoren ; visit the Justedal Glaciers and other grand scenery at the head of the branches of the Sogne Fjord. In yacht to the mouth of the fjord, land at the Leervig station, and proceed, Koute 24, to Molde, sending yacht round there. Visit Komsdalen, Koute 30, from Molde, excursions up branches of the Komsdal Fjord ; Aalesund, and its historical environs ; Bergen, England. N.B. — A sailor who would act as interpreter (Tolk) might probably be met with in London, or upon reaching the coast ; if not, then one might be obtained from Bergen on entering the Hardanger Fjord. A tent and canteen (and if ladies are of the party, side-saddles) should be taken. As the steamers from Copenhagen to Iceland touch at the port of Leith, this island may be, and indeed generally is, visited independently of other parts of Scandinavia. The number of steamers from British ports to places in the Scandi- navian kingdoms is so great, and their times of departure vary so much irom year to year, that it would be useless here to attempt to give any detailed information concerning them or the numerous local steamers ; with regard to which the traveller should consult the railway and steamboat-guides, which are published monthly or quarterly, both in England and the different Continental countries. MAPS. DENMARK. PAGB Plan of Copenhagen , 43 Sketch Map of Iceland 103 NORWAY. Traveller's Map of the Fjords and Mountains of Norway. At the end of Norway, SWEDEN. Sketch Map of Stockholm 50 Map of the Gotha Canal ^ 75 Route Map of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden . , , . At the end of the vol. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS DENMARK. ibenmdrh'] CONTENTS. INTKODUCTOKY INFORMATION. SECT. PAGE 1. Money, Measures, Weights 1 2. Language (Vocabulary, see Norway) 3 3. Passports, Custom House 3 4. Posting, Diligences, Bailroads, Steamers, Inns, &c 3 5. British Legation and Consuls 6 6. English Church 7 7. Succinct Account of Denmark 7 8. Historical Notice 10 9. Statistics 18 ROUTES. \* The names of places ai'e printed in italics only in those routes where they are descHhed. tlOUTE General Observations 1. London to Copenhagen by Lii- heck (by land or by sea) 2. London to Copenhagen by Ham- burg^ Altona, Kiel, Korsor . . 3. London to Copenhagen by Ham- burg, Altona, Flensborg, and the Danish Islands . . Sa. Flensborg to Copenhagen, by Steamer to Korsor, or by North Sleswig, Kolding, Fre- dericia, Odense to Korsdr PAGE 21 21 25 30 39 4. Copenhagen.. .. .. .. 43 EOUTE PAGE 5. Sealand , 61 a. Environs of Copenhagen . , 62 b. Elsinore, Fredriksborg, and North Sealand . . . . 64 c. Pioeskilde, with Central and West Sealand .. 71 d. South Sealand, Moen, Lol- land, Falster .. .. 76 6. Bornholm 79 7. Fyen 83 8. Jutland .-. 84 9. Iceland .. .. 101 L I li U A K V UN I V KUSITY OF CALIFORNIA. J ^DENMARK, WITH SLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. INTRODUCTOEY INFORMATION. 1. Money, Measures, Weights. — 2. Vocabulary, see Norway, — 3. Pass- jports, Custom, House, — 4. Posting, Diligences, Pailroads, Steamers, Inns, &c. — 5. British Legation and Consuls. — 6. English Church, — 7, Succinct Account of Denmark, — 8. Historical Notice, — 9. Statistics, ROUTES TO AND THROUGH DENMARK. IIOI'TE PAGE General Observations . . . . 21 1. London to Copenhagen by LubecJc (by land or by sea) 21 2. London to Copenhagen by Hamburg, Altona, Kiel, and Korsor ..25 3. London to Copenhagen by Hamburg, Altona, Flem- borg, and the Danish Is- lands 30 3 A. Flensborg to Copenhagen, by Steamer to Korsor, or by North Sleswig, Kolding, Fredericia, Odense, to Korsor 39 route page 4. Copenhagen 43 5. Sealand 61 a. Environs of Copenhagen . . 62 b. Elsinore, Fredriksborg, and North Sealand . . . . 64 c. Eoesldlde, with Central and West Sealand 71 d. South Sealand, Mden, Lol- land, Falster 76 6. Bornholm 79 7. Fyen 83 8. Jutland 84 9. Iceland 101 1. — Money, Measures, AVeights. In Denmark proper accounts are kept in rigsdollars, marlis and skil- lings, or, omitting marks, in rigsdollars and skillings. 1 rigsdollar is 6 marks or 96 skillings, 1 mark being equal to 16 skillings. The relative value of British and Danish coin varies a little according to the state of exchange, but on an average 9 dollars are equal to £1 sterling. 1 rigsdollar is consequently as nearly as possible worth 2s. Sd, ; 1 mark is about 4ic?., and 1 skilling about id. The current money of Denmark is silver and copper (or rather bronze) \_Denmarlc.'] b 2 § 1, MONEY, MEASUBES, WEIGHTS. Denmarh coin, and banknotes. Gold is coined, but never seen in circulation. One-skilling pieces and J-skilling pieces (rare) are of copper ; besides there are 4-skilling pieces (worth about one penny), 16-skilling pieces or marks, half-dollars, dollars, and two-dollar pieces, or species, in silver. A few specimens of coin of intermediate values, and older issues are now and then met with, but the last issue comprises only the above. For larger sums the banknotes are most convenient ; they are of different value, the notes of each different value being printed on differently coloured paper. Those most generally seen are 5-dollar notes (on grey paper with a blue border), more rarely occur 10-dollar notes (on yellow paper with a brown border), 20-dollar notes (on light green paper), 50-dollar notes (on brown paper with straight lines in the ground), and lOO-doUar notes (on light brown paper with wavy lines). These two last may be mistaken one for the other, attention to the number printed on them is therefore advisable. Notes larger than 5 dollars are some- times exchanged with difficulty in out-of-the-way places. English gold coin is taken at the railway stations at a certain value as well as other foreign gold coin, and a tariff of such coins is usually posted in the office ; but, as the value at which they are taken is less than the lowest course of exchange, the traveller had better avoid chang- ing his sovereigns there. Danish banknotes, as well as rigsdollars and two-dollar pieces, are taken freely in all the larger towns of Sweden and Norway, as well as in the now Prussian duchies of Sleswig and Holstein, and in Hamburg. On the other hand, Swedish, Norwegian, and Prus- sian dollars are not unfrequently seen in Denmark. One Danish rix- dollar is equal to two Swedish dollars, but one Norwegian dollar is equal to two Danish dollars. A Danish two-dollar piece, or species, is equal to one Norwegian dollar. Measures. — The Danish foot is, like the English, divided into 12 inches, but is a trifle longer, viz. about equal to 12f English inches. Two Danish feet make an ell (Alen). The Danish mile is 24,000 feet Danish, and consequently rather more than 4i English miles. Weights. — 1 lb. (Pund) Danish is equal to 1 lb. li oz. avdp. English, and is still generally divided into 32 lod, of which consequently two make an English ounce. A " lispund " is 16 lbs. Lately the decimal subdivision of the pound has been introduced, but the use of it is optional, and it has not yet supplanted the old weight. In Sleswig and in Holstein Prussian money (1 thaler equal to 3 shil- lings English, and divided into 30 groschen) is now the legal tender ; but Hamburg money is in circulation, and extensively used. 1 schilling Hamburg currency is equal to 1 penny ; 16 schillings make 1 mark courant. Penmark § 2. languages. — § 3. passport. — § 4. posting. 2. — Language. The Danisli and Norwegian being the same language, though spoken with a little different accent (the Norwegian accent being very like the Scotch), and a vocabulary and dialogues being more likely to be of use in Norway than in Denmark, they are placed in the Introductory Eemarks on Norway. In Holstein and the south of Sleswig only German is spoken, and it is understood also in the north of Sleswig, where the Danish prevails, by the officials of the railways, etc. 3. — Passport and Customhouse. Passports are not demanded of travellers entering the Danish ter- ritory, and Denmark was the first monarchy on the Continent which abolished that time-honoured, but often very inconvenient, institution. A book is kept at each hotel, in which the travellers are bound by law to enter their names, &c. Travellers going from Hamburg to Copen- hagen have their luggage examined twice, namely first on entering Prussian territory, at the railway station of Altona, and secondly on the first Danish railway station or landing-place. If, however, the luggage is registered through to Copenhagen, it is not examined before arriving there ; only the objects taken into the carriage are examined in Altona and afterwards in Vamdrup or Korscir. 4. — Posting, Railroads, Steamers, Inns. Posting, or as it is called "extrapost," as distinguished from the ordinary or mallepost, is at most places still carried on under the management of Government, and every complaint is therefore promptly attended to. The whole country is provided with a network of excellent macadamized high roads, which possess the additional charm of having no toll-bars, excepting only the immediate neighbourhood of Copen- hagen, where a very few of them still survive. Whilst in England so many of the principal roads are constructed by private persons or bodies, they are in Denmark constructed and maintained either by the Government or by the counties or " Amt." In Copenhagen, however, as well as in Odense and Elsinore the posting business has been thrown open to private enterprise, and will probably not long survive. As, however, it still exists, we must give some details concerning it. The charge fixed by the tariff of the Royal Extra Post Service, B 2 4 § 4. POSTING, llAILROADS, STEAMEBS, INNS. Beumavh is 1 rdlr. 40 sk. per Danish mile for a " Wiener vogii" or chaise, holding 4 persons inside, with 2 horses, besides from 8 to 16 skilling for the ordering of each horse. All that is to be paid is included ill a paper called " Time-seddel," issued from the post-office. The traveller pays in advance the sum stipulated therein, after which the postilion has no further claim upon him. The paper is then delivered to the postilion, whose duty it is, on arrival at the station where his service ends, to present it again to the traveller, that he may note down the time of arrival, as well as his approval or disapproval of the postilion, and any other observation he may wish to make concerning the service. The extrapost is bound, from 1st of April to 3ist of October, to proceed on all chaussees and equally good roads, when the stage is less than 4 Danish miles, at the rate of 1 mile in f of an hour ; when the stage is 4 miles, it is to be performed in 3i hours ; when the stage is beyond 4 miles, the first mile must be made in 3i hours, and the rest of the journey at the rate of 1 mile in an hour. The postilion is strictly enjoined to be civil and attentive to the travellers, to give assistance in cases of emergency, in the packing and unpacking of luggage, and is also bound to carry certain tools, in order to be able to remedy any slight accident that might nappen on the road. The extrapost is to be on the spot f of an hour after the order for it has been given, and to wait h an hour without extra charge. Formerly a complete system of mail-coaches existed for the conveyance of letters and passengers, under the authority and management of the Postmaster-General, and though this is now in many places superseded by railways, it is still the usual means of inland travelling. The mail-coaches are partly close carriages so-called diligences, partly open carriages so-called dagvogne. The price of a place in one of the former is 32 sk. per Danish mile ; in the second class 26 sk. per mile. 30 lbs. of luggage are carried free ; any greater quantity is charged for, but any quantity is carried, subject to certain limits of the size and weight of every package. The porters attached to the post-houses, litsenhroder, are bound to carry the traveller's luggage, anywhere within town limits, free of charge. There are also private omnibuses and " dagvogne " in many places, particularly at railway stations, landing-places of steamers, for the con- venience of travellers going to neighbouring towns, other stations, &c. The charges in these conveyances are varying, but generally lower than those just mentioned. The railway system of Denmark is extending rapidly. The first railway built in Denmark Proper was between Copenhagen and Eoeskilde on the island of Sealand, which very soon was continued to Korsor on the west coast of Sealand, and from this harbour steamers start regularly for Kiel, Aarhuus, Nyborg, Flensborg, and Denmark § 4. posting, raileoads, steamers, ilsm, 5 other places. The steamers from Korsbr to Kiel afford the usual com- munication with the Continent of Europe, whilst the steamers to Aarhuus afford the most commodious communication with the northern part of the peninsula. A third principal route of steamers is across the Great Belt to Nyborg, whence a new railway crosses the island of Fyen, via Odense, and brings the travellers to Striib on the narrowest part of the Little Belt, whence a steam-ferry, in communication with the trains, conveys the post and passengers to Fredericia in Jutland. From this point railways branch off both south and north. The southern branch is in direct communication with the railways of Slesvig and Holstein, and this is one of the routes between Hamburg and Copenhagen. The railway to the north from Fredericia is destined to traverse the whole length of the peninsula, and in connection with steamers from Fredriks- havn to establish a new route from Hamburg and the Continent to Sweden and Norway ; but as yet it is only finished as far as Aalborg. A branch of this railway connects Aarhuus on the east coast of Jutland with Holstebro on the west coast, while another branch from Skanderborg to Silkeborg in the very heart of Jutland, and a very picturesque neigh- bourhood, is under construction. Besides this great trunk railway, which traverses the whole kingdom, there are several smaller lines. The North Sealand Railway connects the capital with Elsinore, via Fredriksborg and Fredensborg, with a branch to Klampenborg. A rail- way to the south of Sealand is in construction. It is a necessary consequence of the natural configuration of the country that steamers ply a great part in the inland traffic, and from Copenhagen a considerable number of boats keep up regular communication with almost every town or harbour of any importance. Those most likely to be of use to English travellers are those which ply in the Sound, between Copenhagen and Malmo, on the opposite coast of Sweden, and on the principal route from Copenhagen to Stockholm, and between Copenhagen, and Elsinore, and Helsingborg, touching at several points along the coast, as well as those which, starting from Copenhagen and bound for the southern islands, touch at the island of Mcien. In many places the service of ferries is now performed by steamboats. Complete and reliable information as to travelling in Denmark by railway, post, or steamer, and on telegraphs and letter- post is found in the * Reiseliste,' which is published fortnightly, and in Faber's * Post og Reisehaandbog for Kongeriget Danmark,' which is published quarterly or as often as may be required ; it is written in Danish, but with explanations of the terms and abbreviations, in English, French, and German. Postage, — ^The inland postage is the same as in England, viz., 4 sk., 6 § 4. POSTING, RAiLBOAD, STEAMERS, INNS. DenmarJc. or about Id., for 3 kvint, or i oz. English, but the double postage carries a letter up to h lb. weight. Within town limits of Copenhagen it is only 2 sk. To England the charge is 14 sk., or 4d, for the same weight ; to France, 16 sk. ; to Holland, 10 sk. ; Belgium, 13 sk. ; Swit- zerland, 13 sk. ; Slesvig, Holstein, Hamburg, and Lubeck, 6 sk. ; the rest of Germany, 8 sk. ; Sweden, 6 sk. ; Norway, 8 sk. There is a book-post to most other countries at a lower rate, subject to the same conditions as the English. To England the charge is 4 sk., or Id., for 2 lod Danish (1 oz. English), and anything made of paper may be sent, even proof-sheets with corrections, but no other writing. Stamps to the value of 2, 3, 4, 8, and 16 skillings are to be had at the post-offices, and the commoner kinds at most stationers', grocers', &c. Money Orders are granted to an amount of 50 dollars, when payable in Copenhagen 100 dollars. They are forwarded by the post-masters. There is a very complete network of telegraph lines extending over the whole country, with submarine cables to Kussia, Sweden, Norway, England. The charge for 20 words in Denmark itself is 32 sk. (9cZ.), and 16 sk. additional for every 10 words ; the price of telegrams to places abroad varies according to distance, &c. ; to England, via the new cable from Jutland to England, a telegram of 20 words costs at present 2 rdlr. 18 sk., or 5s. ; vi§. Prussia, 3 rdlr. 10 sk., or 7s. to London ; 3 rdlr. 45 sk., or 8s., to other parts of England. The inland telegraph is mostly under control of the Government. Inns. — The inns in Denmark are mostly of the same character as those in the provincial towns of England. The best hotels of Copen- hagen, however, make greater pretensions, and though not yet equal to the best inns in West and Central Europe, will satisfy most tra- vellers; the proprietors, or at any rate some of the servants, speak English; guides and every necessary information is easily obtained. Also in many of the shops of Copenhagen English is spoken. 5. — ^British Legation and Consuls. The post of British Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court of Denmark is at present occupied by Sir Charles Lennox Wyke, K. C. B. ; the First Secretary of Legation is George Strachey, Esq. ; Second Secretary, Hugh McDonell, Esq. The British Consul for Denmark is not stationed at Copenhagen, but at Elsinore. At present this post is filled by Bridges Taylor, Esq. The Vice-Consul at Copen- hagen is A. de Capel Crowe, Esq. Denmarh § 6. English episcopal church. 6. — English Episcopal Church. The only place in Denmark where there is regular English divine service is at Copenhagen, where there is a chaplain to the Legation (Rev. R. S. Ellis, M.A.), hut as yet there is no English chapel, though money is being collected for building one. The service is held at 11 A.M. on Sundays in the meeting-room of the Moravian Brethren, Stormgade 21. 7.— Succinct Account of Denmark. Dominions, — Shorn of her former greatness, the Danish realm now only comprises the northern portion of the Cimbrian Peninsula, and a number in all of about 200 islands, situated at the entrance of the Baltic; of which Sealand, Fyen (which on German maps is called Fiinen), Lolland and Falster are the largest, besides Bornholm, off tho S.E. coast of Sweden. The Faro Islands, Iceland, Greenland, and the Islands of St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. Jan in the West Indies also belong to the Danish Crown, whilst the Danish settlements in East India and in Africa were sold to Great Britain in 1846. The area of Denmark Proper, of which we are now treating, is about 14,200 English square miles, and the population about 1,850,000, which increases annually with nearly 1^ per cent. Geology and General Aspect, — With the exception of Bornholm, which in point of geology agrees with southern Sweden, Denmark is a part of the great plain of Northern Europe, and the elevation above the sea nowhere reaches 600 feet. The oldest formation anywhere to be observed is the upper cretaceous, and in some places the limestone con- tributes materially to the beauty of the landscape, particularly at Stevns Klint on the E. coast of Sealand, and on the little island of Moen, where the white cliffs adorn the sea coast, crowned in the last- mentioned locality with magnificent beech-woods. The cretaceous strata of Denmark offer peculiar interesting phenomena to the geologist, and have been the subject of a well-known treatise by Sir Charles Lyell. Besides Stevns and Moen, the most interesting locality is Faxo, an ancient coral crag, now far inland, abounding in rare and peculiar fossils. The limestone is covered with various beds of sand and clay, which mostly present an undulating surface ; and as the country, particularly on the islands, is rich in wood and small lakes, there is no lack of pretty scenery. It is for the greater part a fertile country, where every acre is tilled or otherwise turned to account, where uncultivated commons are as unknown as extensive pleasure-grounds, feeding its own inhabitants 8 § 7. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF DENMARK. Denmark, abundantl}^, and supplying the neighbouring countries to a considerable extent with corn and cattle. Agriculture is perhaps not yet on an equal point of development with England or Scotland, but is rapidly pro- gressing, and as the farmers are nearly all freeholders, the bulk of the nation prospers by it. Particularly since the repeal of the English corn laws, and the opening up of English markets, has a great improvement been observable. The rivers are, of course, but small— the longest is the Gudeiiaa in North Jutland, 90 miles long — and there is not much fishing in them. Nor is there much natural pasture-ground ; the fresh grass fields, hemmed in by rows of elm and oak so familiar to the English eye, are wanting. Hill and dale are covered with interminable corn-fields, now and then interspersed with clover-fields, where the cattle stand tethered, and so entirely have the hedges in many places disappeared, that the different farms are scarcely divided off from each other by a decent ditch. But instead of the hedge-rows of stately elms and oaks, and park glades with isolated groups of trees, the Danish land- scape is enlivened by frequent and often extensive tracts of dense wood- land, consisting of beech and oak, and now also of pine and fir. A century ago these last-named trees existed scarcely outside the private parks and gardens, though the deposits of the peat-bogs prove that in ancient times they were predominant in the forests, but are now planted most extensively, so that very large tracts of sandy and poor soil now is covered with them. This latter change is particularly observed in the less fertile part of the country, — the middle and west part of North Jutland^ — which formerly was well timbered, but where the pernicious influence of the westerly winds and injudicious treatment of the forests has entirely destroyed these. The eastern coast of Jutland, and indeed of the whole Cimbrian peninsula, is intersected by "fjords," long, winding, but mostly narrow inlets from the sea, well wooded and cul- tivated, and presenting, upon the whole, the same characters as the landscape on the islands. But all along the middle of the peninsula there stretches a tract of heaths, sometimes presenting an apparently unbounded plain overgrown with heather and furze, now and then intersected by small winding rivers, bordered by a narrow strip of meadow land thinly inhabited, but where for the rest not a soul meets the wanderer for half a day, save, perhaps, a lonely shepherd minding a flock of hardy, bony animals, valuable for their fine skin and wool, but whose flesh is as tough as the heather off which they nibble the tenderest shoots. In some parts the sandy soil contains a peculiar hard stratum, several inches thick, two or more feet mider ground, called Aid, opposing a formidable, though not invincible, obstacle to the growth of trees. The Ahl is still forming by the conglomeration of the sand henmarh. § 8. sudciKOT AdcoUxNl? of benmabk. 9 under the influence of water containing a little iron, and the cause of it is sought in the destruction of the ancient forest which covered these parts. The highest elevation is generally near the east coast, from which it diminishes gradually towards the west, so that many small rivers rising a few miles from the east coast nevertheless traverse the \vhole north of the peninsula and join the North Sea. Where this desolate tract meets the well-timbered and fertile east coast, it is often broken up into rounded hills, whose sheltered sides are green and wooded, whilst their bases are surrounded by fresh meadows, forming a beautiful ensemble of colour with the rich glow of the flowering heather. Further to the west on the peninsula, the landscape undergoes another change ; the plain becomes more and more flat and watery, the scanty trees dis- appear by degrees entirely, till at last a row of abrupt sand-hills rise in the horizon, looking at first like distant mountains, though not higher than 100 ft., so abrupt and peculiar are often their forms, and presenting to the wanderer who ascends them the unbounded view of the Is^orth Sea which bathes their foot, and in fact calls them into existence. This dangerous and treacherous sandy coast stretches for 200 miles from Blaavandshuk, not far from Varde, to the Skaw, all the way girt by a double or treble row of sandbanks, ^* Revler," where many a good ship has become a prey to the fury of the waves, and many a ship's crew seen land for the last time. So dangerous is this coast that there are not less than 14 lifeboat stations and 7 rocket stations established along it. At many places on this coast the sea is making constant inroads on the land, and this is particularly noticeable at the south-west corner of North Jutland and along the coast of Sleswig. Originally the general native features of the Cimbrian peninsula, from the Elbe to the Skaw, seem to have been quite the same in the whole of its length ; but at some remote period, difiicult to determine, but it is thought subsequently to the first appearance of mankind in those regions, an extensive sub- sidence of the coast of this part of the North Sea has taken place. The range of sand-hills which still exists along the coast of North Jutland was broken through in numerous places, and the flat land inside inun- dated. Fragments of the range of dunes and of ancient cliffs are still standing, protecting a little tract of land on their east side, and forming a row of islands along the whole coast of South Jutland, separated from the mainland by a broad expanse of sea, which, however, for the greater part, is dry at low tide. During the long time which has succeeded this change of level and consequent irruption of the sea, extensive marshes have been formed along the coast, which by degrees have been reclaimed by means of dykes, and which present the same appearance as the marshes in the eastern counties of England, Norfolk, Lincolnshire, &c. ; but during B 3 10 § 9. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Denmark, the last 1000 years the sea has again destroyed more than it has added in this way to the mainland and the islands. Along the west coast of the peninsula of Eidersted in JSleswig stands the southernmost part of the ancient range of dunes. That the formation of these islands along the west coast of Sleswig, and of the marshes along the shores of that part of the sea which separates them from the mainland, is subsequent to the first appearance of man in these parts seems to he rendered evident by the fact that, under the thick layers of marsh-clay, peat-bogs and remains of ancient forests have been discovered, and in the peat and at the root of the trees implements of flint, pottery, and other remains of human civilization. The climate of Denmark, upon the whole, is mild ; the average tem- perature of Copenhagen is 46*8^ Fahr., the greatest heat observed in the shade is nearly 94°, the extreme cold nearly - 19° Fahr. It is healthy, but, on account of the frequent changes and the preponderance of wind, not particularly agreeable ; though scarcely less so than the climate of England. The air in Denmark is, at least in summer, decidedly drier and more bracing than in England, and the absence of vapours in the atmosphere causes a striking difference in the tints of the landscape, particularly of distant objects. At the same time, the Danish climate is favourable to the vegetation, which is remarkably luxuriant, and both the flora and the fauna of Denmark is, in proportion to the extent of the country, remarkably rich. 9. — Historical Kotice. It is aptly observed by Sir John Lubbock, in his work on * I'reliistoric Times,' that Denmark occupies a larger space in history than on the map of Europe. Not only might, as he points out, many a larger nation well envy the Danes the position they hold in science and art, but it is besides undoubtedly true that the antiquity of Denmark, as of Scan- dinavia, upon the whole, was its most splendid period, and that to which even now the greatest interest attaches. The monuments from pre-historic and earliest historic time of Denmark are numerous and interesting. At that time, Denmark properly speaking, comprised Jutland (including South Jutland or Sleswig), the Danish islands, and the southern part of modern Sweden. It is remarkable that the earliest really historical fact in Danish history is a war with Germany, then under the rule of Charlemagne, which ended by a peace concluded in 810, whereby the river Eyder, which separates the modern duchies of Sleswig and Holstein^ was declared the frontier between Denmark and Germany, as indeed it remained till 1864, when Denmark was Jbenmarh § 9. historical notice. 11 compelled to cede tlie duchy of Sleswig to Germany. In the war with Charlemagne, the Danish King Gotrik constructed a line of defences reaching from the marches at the lower Eyder to the Baltic, which afterwards was extended into the famous Danevirke, built in the 10th cent, by King Gorms' Queen Thyra, called Danabod, or the Danes' joy, according to tradition an English princess. Christianit}?- was first introduced into Denmark in 827, by Ansgarius the Ajoostle of the North, a monk from the convent of New Corvey in Westphalia, but did not thoroughly subvert the old pagan faith of Scandinavia, which is so well known from the ancient Sagas, till after the conquest of England by Kings Bwein and Canute, While scores of thousands of Danes emigrated to the British Islands (see Worsaae's * Danes and Northmen in England,' and his later work on the Danish conquest of England and Normandy), a great number of Englishmen settled in Denmark, or were sent there by the king, and these were mainly instrumental in establishing the Church in Denmark, and founding ecclesiastical institutions and buildings there. At the death of Canute, his great empire, comprising Denmark, Norway, England, the south of Scotland, and large territories along the shores of the Baltic, was broken up, and Denmark was for a long time distracted by internal feuds. Amongst the later Danish kings, those of the so-called Valdemarian period, Valdemar /., Kanut VI,, Valdemar II, stand out prominently, by firmly established power at home, and splendid warlike exploits abroad. The Danes did scarcely participate in the Crusades, but under^ took similar expeditions into the Pagan countries to the south and east of the Baltic for the establishment of Christianity there. On one of • these a battle was fought near Eeval in Kussia, where the Danish army^ sore pressed by a too numerous hostile force, Avas rallied and led to victory by the sudden display of a scarlet banner with a white cross, which had been sent by the Pope, but which, according to the popular tradition, fell down from heaven. This happened in 1219 ; and since then this flag, under the name of Danebrog, became the Danish national emblem, and superseded, as such, the figure of the raven, which until then was used, and which appears on the numerous coins struck by Danish kings in England. Valdemar II,, called the victorious, 'on account of his success in war during the first years of his reign, has left a great name on record as a law-giver ; and the oldest Danish statute laws, civil and ecclesiastical, date from his reign. He also caused the compilation of a most interesting account of the royal revenue derived from property in the whole of the kingdom, a kind of doomsday book; He died in 1241, and now followed another period of internal discord, coupled with foreign oppression, which only terminated when a noble- 12 § 9. iiisTORtcAL KoTic^. JDe^imarlc, man of Jutland called Niels Ehhesen^ by a daring enterprise, slew the most powerful of the foreigners who sucked the life-blood of the people, Count Gerhard of Holstein. The nation rose with energy, led by a third Valdemar, who again established the integrity and independence of the realm. His daughter, Queen Margaret, perhaps the ablest ruler Denmark ever had, succeeded in uniting with the crown of Den- mark those of Norway and Sweden, by the union of Calmar of 1397. But at her death the united Scandinavian crowns passed on to German princes distantly related to the ancient royal famil}^ of Denmark, who lacked both ability and energy to work out the great political scheme begun by her ; and after a troubled existence of about 120 years, the imion came to an end by the secession of Sweden. Margaret's successor was Erik of Poineraiiia, whose queen, Philippa, daughter of Henry lY. of England, made herself a name in history by her courageous defence of Copenhagen against the fleets of the Hanseatic league in the absence of the king. At the death of his successor Christoph of Bavaria, the throne of Denmark came to Christian I., the first of the Oldenburg dynasty which still reigns in Denmark, and of which a younger branch occupies the throne of Eussia. Christian I. acquired the duchy of Holstein. In the reign of Christia7i III. the Reformation Avas carried through in Denmark without any serious difficulty. The ablest king of this dynasty was Christian IV, (1588-1648), who not only distin- guished himself as an able and gallant warrior, but also by his thrift and economy, and left himself lasting monuments in the numerous and splendid buildings which he executed in a style akin to the Elizabethean, and which in Denmark is described as the style of Christian IV. Good specimens are the castles of Rosenborg and Fred- ricksborg, and the Exchange of Copenhagen. His well meant exertions for the good of the country were paralyzed by the nobility, whose constitutional power was so great, that the king was reduced to little more than the president of an aristocratic republic. Under his son Frederick III,, the state was brought on the verge of ruin by the want of patriotism of the nobility, thanks to which the military resources of the kingdom were so reduced that Charles X. of Sweden found it an easy task to deprive Denmark of her provinces east of the Sound, which have ever since formed part of Sweden. The indignation of the people was raised to the highest pitch, and the yoke of the nobility was thrown off, never to be reimposed, though only in order to transfer absolute and hereditary sovereignty on the king and his successors ; and for nearly two centuries, 1660-1848, Denmark remained an absolute hereditary monarchy, whilst until then the crown had been elective. But few of the kings of the Oldenburg dynasty were distinguished by national l)enmaA, § 9* historical notice. IS feeling and interest in Danisli language and nationality ; their queens and their confidential advisers were mostly Germans ; and Danes, how- ever able, were very rarely able to exercise any great influence, or to rise to the highest dignities of the state. In this respect Frederick V. (1746-1766), amongst others, formed a notable exception ; his first queen, Louisa, was a daughter of George II., and greatly beloved by her subjects. Their son. Christian VII., the husband of the unfor- tunate Caroline MatJiilde, daughter of George III., was from childhood of a sickly constitution, which soon became entirely undermined by a reckless life, and the consequence was a rapidly increasing mental aberration, which necessarily brought the supreme power into the hands of others. For a few years, Struensee, o. German physician who had advanced to the highest dignities, governed the country with un- doubted good intention, but with a disregard of national feelings, and rooted prejudices, which raised him up powerful enemies. He was a follower of Voltaire and the French philosophy of the day, whose ideas he tried to realize in government in a headstrong, yet not really ener- getic, and at the same time regardless manner. He became the victim of a court conspiracy ; the king was persuaded, or rather frightened into signing the orders for his deposition and trial before a special court, and he was beheaded in 1772. His fall brought ruin upon the queen, who was accused of an illicit liaison with the fallen minister, divorced from the king, and banished. The British court, who did not question the justice of this measure, gave her a residence at Celle, in Hanover, where she died after a few years. The sad fate of the queen has always secured for her the sympathy of those who know what temptations her position and the conduct and mental state of her husband threw in her way ; but the scanty additional light which later times have thrown upon the matter has not served to vindicate her innocence. From the time of Struensee's fall dates a strong and ever-increasing revival of Danish national feeling, of Danish literature, art, and science ; and subsequent kings have, in this respect, stood on the !side of their Danish subjects, though perhaps not always with the desirable energy. Towards the close of the century, Danish commerce and shipping rose to a very flourishing condition, thanks to the neutralitj^ observed by Denmark in the great wars which then devastated Europe. This favourable state of things suffered a short interruption b}^ the hostilities commenced by England in 1802, with a view to compelling Denmark to secede from the league of the armed neutrality formed by neutral states for the protection of their commerce. Then the famous battle of the 2nd April, 1802, was fought in the roadstead of Copenhagen, between a division of the English fleet under Nelson, and the southern part of the Danish a * § 9. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Benmarh " line of defence," a number of old ships' hulks moored or grounded on the shallow sands of Amager, while the Danish fleet lay unarmed and unequipped in the harbour. The result was that Denmark agreed to withdraw from the neutrality league, but the bloodshed and bitter feelings caused by the war might have been spared, for a few days after, the Emperor of Kussia died, and the league, of which he was the soul, broke up of its own account. Of far greater consequence was the second war with England, which began in 1807. The English govern- ment having received information that the Emperor Napoleon had concerted a plan with the Emperor of Kussia for invading Denmark, and compelling her to place her fleet at his disposal, resolved to prevent this, by doing herself what the French Emperor was suspected of in- tending. A fleet with 20,000 men was despatched to Copenhagen, and a demand was presented for the immediate surrender of the Danish fleet. Though utterly unprepared for war of which there was no prospect, the Danish government returned the only answer which could be expected from a nation not entirely destitute of self-respect. Copen- hagen, which was without a garrison and virtually defenceless, was compelled to surrender by a three days' bombardment, whereby a great part of the city was destroyed ; and the fleet was equipped and carried away by the English. Denmark thus became entangled in the great wars of Europe, from which she had nothing to gain, and from which she had hitherto studiously kept aloof; and in 1814, she was compelled to cede Norway to Sweden. The Danish shipping and commerce was destroyed, the state bankrupt, the people very nearly ruined; but thanks to an economical government, the natural resources of the country, and fortunate circumstances, the losses were repaired ; and when Frederick YI., in whose reign — as prince regent and king— these misfortunes happened, died in 1839, the national credit was re-esta- blished ; and though greatly reduced in extent, the country, upon the whole, was prospering. Meanwhile, the so-called Schleswig-Holstein agitation developed itself. It was an offshoot of the unity movement in Germany, and had for its object to separate from Denmark and unite with Germany, not only the originally German duchy of Holsteui, which had been acquired by Christian I. in 1460, but also the originally Danish duchy of Sleswig, which never in any way had been connected with Germany, but of which the southern part, by constant immigration, had become german- ized. The scheme was favoured by the circumstance that the latter duchy enjoyed a somewhat separate position in the Danish state, which had originated in its being a border province. Ever since the Danevirke was constructed near the southern frontier, a Danish army was generally Denmarh, § 9. hIstokical notice. 15 stationed there, mostly under the command of a royal prince, who exercised a certain authority in the adjoining districts, and this led to the pernicious custom of granting the whole or part of the province of South Jutland or Sleswig to junior branches of the royal family as a fief of the Danish crown. Although these vassals often became very troublesome, and even made common cause with the enemies of the realm which they ought to have defended, this was continued for cen- turies in the interest of the reigning family, but to the detriment of the empire, whose interests did not always coincide as long as the crown was elective, that is till 1660. When at length Frederick IV. in 1720, regained the whole of the duchy for the then hereditary crown, he did not properly consolidate it with the rest of the kingdom in point of administration. This served as a handle for the secessionists of later times, and the intricate questions of public law which they raised ren- dered the controversy on this question, which lasted for 30 years, a perfect monster of bulk and obscurity, quite a phenomenon in the political history of the world. The scheme of separating the two duchies from Denmark, and joining them to Germany as a new state, found great favour in Germany, particularly because the Bay of Kiel, where the German nationalists wished to see a German fleet established, lies partly in Holstein and partly in Sleswig territory, and it found strong support from the Duke of Augustenburg, representative of one of the younger branches of the house of Oldenburg, who hoped to obtain the sovereignty of the new state it was proposed to form, under the name of Sleswig- Holstein. Neither Frederick VI., nor his successor Christian VIII., was able to stem the agitation; and when the French Kevolution broke out in 1848, a few weeks after the death of the latter, and was followed by disturbances all over Europe, a rebellion also broke out in Holstein. The Danish army repeatedly worsted the insurgents, and the insurrection would not have lasted two months but for the inter* ference of Prussia and other German states. At length Prussia was compelled by the other European powers to withdraw her troops, and a peace was concluded in Berlin, in 1850 ; after which, the insurrectionary army, left to its own resources, was defeated at Idsted, 26 July, 1850, but no satisfactory settlement was arrived at. The insurrection had destroyed the unity of the state, and the Danish government had to frame and introduce a new representative constitution for the whole monarchy. Frederick VII., who ascended the throne in 1848, shortly before the outbreak of the rebellion, had granted a very liberal consti- tution, but this could not be extended to the whole monarchy. The German Confederation had a voice in the matter as regarded Holstein, and kept the whole question open by refusing its assent to any proposals 16 § 9* HISTORICAL NOTICE. Denmark of the Danish government, and by abstaining from indicating what would be acceptable. Nothing was therefore settled when Frederick YII. died in November, 1863. He was the last (save an old childless uncle) of the direct male descendants of Christian I. in the eldest line, and as some doubts had been raised as to the law of succession in the different parts of the monarchy, an arrangement had been made as early as 1852, in an- ticipation of his death without children, whereby the succession to the whole of the Danish monarchy, including Holstein, had been transferred to Prince Christian of Glucksburg, belonging to one of the junior branches of the house of Oldenburg. This arrangement had been consented to by all concerned, and embodied in the treaty of London of 1852, to which all European powers acceded, excepting the King of Bavaria and some minor German princes. The Duke of Augustenburg, who had been so active in getting up the insurrection in Holstein, promised for himself and his family not to disturb this arrangement, nor allow any one else to do so ; in consideration of which the Danish government paid him a handsome indemnity for his estates in Sleswig which had been confiscated. But as soon as Frederick VII, was dead, Prussia and Austria refused to acknowledge the succession of Christian IX. in conformity with the treaty, and the son of the Duke of Augustenburg came forward as a pretender with the sanction of his father, and eventually Prussian and Austrian troops entered Holstein in the first days of 1864. The two German powers demanded the instan- taneous withdrawal of the so-called constitution of November 18, 1863, the last attempt of the Danish government to solve the difficulty which, but -for the sudden death of Frederick YII., might very likely have led to a satisfactory result. The Danish government having ascertained that the concession of this demand v;ould be followed by fresh demands impossible to fulfil, and that the German powers intended to force on a war a tout j'^rix, refused, and then began the war of 1864. The Danish army, inferior to its opponents in equipment, numbers, in short, every- thing except bravery, was stationed at the Dannevirke, as a thousand years before in the war against Charlemagne, but the position was too extensive for its numbers, and when on the point of being outflanked, the Danish general retreated to the slightly fortified heights of Dyhhol (German Duppel\ opposite the island of Als, on the east coast of the duchy, thus leaving the country open to the enemy. The German armies laid regular siege to the entrenchments at Diippel, which were not calcu- lated to withstand operations of that kind, least of all rifled cannon, which were then for the first time used in actual warfare. After two months' siege, they were taken by assault by the Prussians, just as the Danish Denmark § 9. historical no1?ice. 17 commander was going to retire to Als and give np a position wliich had become untenable. An armistice and an European conference in London followed, but the German Powers, well knowing that no other state was willing to go to w^ar for Denmark, refused to abate anything of their demands, namely, the unconditional surrender of Sleswig and Holstein (including the domain of Lauenburg). When hard pressed, they held out a possibility of leaving Denmark in possession of a strip of land in North Sleswig, but reserved to themselves to name their conditions ; and as it was well known that these would be such as to render the acceptance of their offer useless, it came to nothing. At last it was proposed to leave the dispute to the decision of an arbiter, but this both refused : Denmark honestly and outright, well knowing that she would gain nothing by thus abandoning her rights ; the Germans indirectly, in this form, that they accepted the proposal provided they v/ere not to be bound by the award. Hostilities which had ceased during the negociations, recommenced ; the Prussians succeeded in effecting a landing on Als, and at last Denmark was obliged to sue for peace. After protracted negociations, a peace was signed in Vienna, 20th August, 1864, whereby the King of Denmark ceded to Prussia and Austria the three duchies. If the Danes did not receive that material support during the war, to which they had thought themselves entitled in the name, not only of treaties, but of common justice, and of the interest which all nations must have in preventing breaches of good faith and the establishment of government by the sword alone, they had the sympathy of the whole civilized world, and this showed itself in two ways ; viz. : during the war, in the manner in which every kind of contribution for comfort and assistance for the wounded and fallen Danes and their relicts flowed in from all parts of the globe, not least from England, the two English relief committees alone forwarding more than 20,000/., whilst after the war, a strong mark of sympathy was given by the Emperor of the French who, when two years afterwards Prussia compelled Austria to cede her part in the conquered provinces, obtained a clause in the peace of Prague, the celebrated Art. Y., to the effect that the Danish part of Sleswig should be restored to Denmark. As yet this has not been done ; but no Dane seems to doubt that it will be done sooner or later with or against the will of Prussia ; and the population of Sleswig, from the town of Flensborg, or rather from a line a little south of that town, to the northern frontier, omit no opportunity, such as election of deputies to the Prussian chambers, or the North German parliament, to manifest their stout adherence to the mother country, to protest against their separation from Denmark, and to call for the execution of the Article V. in the peace of Prague. is § 10. STATiSTidS. Denmarh, The present King of Denmark, Christian IX., belongs to the Gliicks- biirg "branch of the house of Oldenburg, and descends from King Christian III. of Denmark. He succeeded to the crown of Denmark on the 15th November, 1863, in virtue of the above-mentioned arrange- ment of 1852, on the extinction of the male line of the old royal branch of the house of Oldenburg, in the person of Frederick VII. King Christian IX. was born on the 8th of April, 1818; the Queen of Denmark, Louisa, daughter of the late Landgrave Vilhelm of He^se, and niece of the Duchess of Cambridge, was born the 7th September, 1817. Their children are : 1, Frederick, Crown Prince of Denmark, born 3rd June, 1843, married to Louisa, daughter of the King of Sweden and Norway ; 2, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, born 1st De- cember, 1844 ; 3, George I., King of Greece, born 24th December, 1845, married to 01 ga, eldest daughter of Grand Duke Constantino of Kussia ; 4, Dagmar (Marie Feodorowna) married to the Czarewitch of Eussia, born 26th November, 1847; 5, Thyra, born 27th September, 1853; 6, Valdemar, bom 27th October, 1858. 10. — Statistics. The present constitution of Denmark is very nearly the same as the one granted by Frederick YII. in 1848-49. The powers of the parlia- ment are essentially the same as those possessed by the British parliament. It consists of two houses or Things, which was the old appellation of such assemblies in the Scandinavian kingdoms and settlements, and is still in use in the Isle of Man. The Folkething is based on universal suffrage, every person who is not a domestic servant, a bankrupt, con- victed criminal, or lunatic, and 30 years of age, being a voter ; the Landsthing is elected by an indirect method resembling the one proposed by Mr. Hare, in order to facilitate the representation of minorities. Voters for members of the Landsthing must prove an annual income of 130?. There is a perfect freedom of the press, of association, and of worship, in Denmark. The Evangelical Lutheran Church is the state church, and the king must belong to it; but all religious communities have civilly ecjual rights. Only the offices of judges are now reserved for Christians, whereas Jews were formerly almost confined to the medical profession. There are very few Dissenters in Denmark, a circumstance which per- haps, is caused by the more perfect blending together of the different classes of society. The means of education being abundant and cheap, it is not difficult even to the poorest, to rise by talent and industry ; and many members both of the clergy and of the different learned professions Denmarh § 10. statistics. 1§ belong originally to the humbler classes of the people. The system of compulsory education has long been in force, and it is very rare to meet a person who cannot read and write. The "Latin schools," which prepare for the university, are also almost all public institutions, under direct government control. As no profits are to be made by them, the school fees are very moderate, and in all of them there is a considerable number of free scholarships. The university of Copenhagen is wealthy, and more than 150 students receive free lodgings and other assistance while preparing for examinations. General education is consequently widely diffused in Denmark, and the Danish nation can boast a pro- portionately large number of prominent names in science and literature. Denmark is essentially an agricultural country, and corn, cattle, and dairy produce form the staple of exports, of which a large proportion is brought to Great Britain. The average export of corn for the last five years is about 1,500,000 quarters. The cattle trade has much diminished on account of the cattle plague, and the subsequent restrictions on the imports to British ports ; the average for the last four years is 18,000 sheep, 50,000 swine, 53,000 horned cattle. Danish horses, particularly the so-called Jutland breed, a strong much-enduring animal with arched neck, are much sought for on the continent ; the annual export averages 8000, but rises sometimes as high as 20,000. The Danish commercial fleet comprised in 1868-1869 3000 vessels above 4 tons, with a tonnage of about 180,000, and the quantity of goods exported or imported by sea from or to foreign places amounted in that year to 1,100,000 tons, of which about one-half was carried by Danish vessels. Many Danish vessels are employed in trading from port to port in foreign countries, and return but rarely to their home, as there are many more ships owned in Denmark than the trade of the country itself requires. The manufactures are not of general importance, and though some articles are of very good quality, they are mainly intended for home consumption. The bulk of the population are agriculturists, and the greater part of the country belongs to freehold farmers possessing farms of from 20 to 120 acres. Formerly most of the farms, at least on the islands, were subjected to a peculiar kind of tenure called " Faeste," which secured all land subjected to it for the class of peasant farmers, as the law practically prevented its absorption into larger holdings. But this anomalous arrangement, which was originally designed to prevent the pauperisation of the yeomanry, but which is not now required for this purpose, and operates — as every kind of fixity of tenure must — pre- judicially on the development of agriculture, is in process of abolition, 20 § 10. STATISTICS. Denmarh and thousands of these " Fa^ste" farms are being converted into freehold, a fair compensation being given to the landlords. In Danish home politics the land question plays a prominent part, and the class of freehold farmers form the strongest political party. It is worthy of notice that in Denmark the agricultural population forms the democracy, whilst the towns, contrary to what is usually the case, form the conservative element. The Danish army is based on conscription, on a plan somewhat resembling the one adopted in Prussia ; but the term of service is shorter, and the system far less oppressive. The military and naval organisation is of course only calculated to serve defensive purposes, and every eifort is made, that the finances will allow, for attaining the greatest efficiency. The public revenue averages about £2,500,000, or very nearly the same as before the late war and the loss of the three duchies, thanks to the increased prosperity of the country ; and though unsuccessful in that struggle which, as Denmark was left to herself, could have but one result, the Danish people still hold their place honourably amongst the nations of Europe. KOUTES TO AND THROUGH DENMARK. GENEKAL OBSERVATIONS. Direct communication by steam is now established in the summer months between London and various ports on the East Coast of Great In summer the distance between Lon- don and Copenhagen may be accom- plished in 46 hours via Calais or Ostend, Cologne, Hamburg, Kiel and Korsor, and by any of the other I routes in about 60 hours. With regard to routes through Britain, on the one side, and Copen- Denmark, it has been thought most hagen, and other Danish ports on . practical to describe the larger is- the other. But as these boats are } lands and the province of Jutland mostly calculated for goods traffic, the accommodation for passengers is not very good, and they cannot be recommended to persons who travel for pleasure, except on the score of cheapness. The steamers from Lon- don to St. Petersburg, on the con- trary, are very good and comfortable vessels, and, as they stop at Copen- hagen, they aftbrd to lovers of a sea passage a direct and easy route. But by far the majority of travellers enter Denmark from the South, over Hamburg or Lubeck. The steamers from London to Hamburg are mostly tolerably good vessels, and as they keep close to the coast the i3assage is often very pleasant in summer, and always preferable to that round the Skaw. We refer, with regard to this, to our second route. The quickest mode of reaching Copen- hagen from London is, however, by land, through Belgium and Prussia to Hanover, and thence either to Liibeck and thence by steamer to Copenhagen (Route 1) or to Ham- burg. From this city the traveller has again the choice, viz. between the route of Kiel and Korsor, cross- ing the Baltic between these two places by night (route 2), or by Rendsborg and Flensborg to Korsor, either by steamer between the last two places, or by rail via Fredericia and the island of Fyen (Route 3 a). separately. The network of steam- boat lines and railways is so com- plete, that routes may be combined in many equally serviceable ways. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY LUBECK BY SEA AND LAND. The trains which leave London about 8 o'clock every morning and evening for the Continent, in con- nection with the steamers from Dover to Calais or Ostend, as well as the direct steamers to Ostend, cor- respond to trains traversing the North of France and Belgium, ar- riving at Cologne about 20 hours after the departure of the mail train from London. Travellers by steamer to Antwerj) join the same trains in Brussels, but even without any 22 ROUTE 1. — LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. Denmarh longer stay in Antwerp than is just necessary this circuit delays the journey for 12 hours. In the rail- way station at Cologne there is a good restaurant and other arrange- ments (lavatory, &c.) for the comfort of the travellers," who, moreover, can easily betake themselves to the large and comfortable Hotel clu Nord, five minutes' walk from the station. The trains from London through France and Belgium have not al- ways second-class carriages, and it is necessary either to go first-class the whole way, or from time to time to pay a supplemental fare to one's second-class ticket. But on the other side of Cologne there are com- fortable second-class carriages all the way. Many travellers prefer, therefore, to take a first-class ticket to Cologne, and register their lug- gage only so far, and then rebook at Cologne for Liibeck or Harburg (for Hamburg) as the case may be. The journey is continued after a delay of a couple of hours by the fast train to Berlin via Dusseldorf (vfltiere the train is reversed), Obershausen (where travellers from Holland, and from London via steamer to Rotterdam and Dutch railways join the train), to Hanovevj which is reached in 4 hours. Unlike the station at Co- logne, the station at Hanover is an excessively uncomfortable, dirty, smoky, rambling building. Travel- lers to Denmark leave the train here, and have only to wait about a I hr. ; but on the return journey there is a stay of 2 hrs., and most people will prefer to walk across the square to one of the hotels opposite the station (Hotel Royal recommended). The journey is continued by a separate train, which runs from Hanover to Harburg via Lelirte (30 m. from Hanover), where the train is re- versed. The next station is Celle, with a royal palace, which can be seen from the railway, and is chiefly known as the last abode of Caroline Matilda, Queen of Denmark, after her divorce from King Christian VII. The rly. traverses an uninteresting little-in- habited district, of sandy plains and low hills, covered with heath and crippled pine-plantations, stopping at several small stations before ar- riving at Liineburg, a thriving town at the river Ilmenau, with important salines. Travellers for Liibeck here leave the train in order to proceed after a delay of a few minutes by a short branch railway to Hohnstorf, on the Elbe, whence a steam ferry transfers passengers and luggage to Lauenhurg, on the north bank of the river, or rather to a station situated east of the town near a sluice which forms the southern outlet of the Stecknitz Canal, connecting the rivers Trave and Elbe, and thereby the important commercial cities of Lii- beck and Hamburg. The little town, which gives its name to the duchy of Lauenburg, a domain with 25,00*0 inhabitants, now in the possession of Prussia, is prettily situated, but offers nothing of interest in spite of its antiquity. The train starts im- mediately on the arrival of the ferry- boat, stopping at Biichen (junction with the Berlin-Hamburg railway), and proceeding through a fertile and well-wooded landscape to LUhech^ which is reached in 8 or 9 hours from Hanover. During the last war between Den- mark and Germany, and for some time afterwards, this route was the postal route. A mail steamer was then always ready on the arrival of the train to start for Copenhagen or Korsor as soon as the mail was brought on board. At present the old route by Kiel and Korsor is again used for the mails, and there is now only three times a week a steamer to Copenhagen, leaving Lii- beck at 5 in the afternoon. A full description of this remark- able old town is found in the Hand- hooh for North Germany, but as it well deserves a day's exploration, by Denmarlc, EOUTE 1. LUBECK. 23 travellers en route for Denmark or Sweden, we shall briefly notice the principal objects of interest. Lubeck (Stadt Hamburg, Duffke's Hotel; Brockmiiller's Hotel; cab from station to town, 8 shillings Hamburg money ; per drive, 6 r. ; per hour, 16 b), the principal member of the Hanseatic league has pre^ served the aspect and character of antiquity to a higher degree than any other town in Northern Europe. The high gabled houses, the curious ancient gateways, the peculiar archi- tectural style of the churches and public buildings, which are all of red and black bricks (Brick-Gothic), give it very picturesque exterior, and the habits of the inhabitants, their extreme cleanliness, the ar- rangement of the houses, with large vestibules serving all manner of pur- poses, remind more of Holland than of any other country. The ramparts are of modern origin, and now con- verted into pretty walks ; the an- cient walls are almost entirely de- stroyed, but the HoUtenthor near the station, through which travellers enter the town from the station, and the still more curious Burgtlwr, both from the 15th century, are still pre- served. The churches of Lubeck are of considerable size, and have enormous towers and spires ; but the ground being rather unfavour- able for such huge structures these latter are mostly considerably out of the perpendicular. The iinest is St. Mary^s, in the centre of the town, open from 10 till 1 ; Sacristan lives opposite, 4, Mengstrasse) with spires 430 feet high, an exceedingly lofty building, which was completed in 1304. Besides the brasses and the wood carvings, two pictures by Overheck, who was a native of Lu- beck, are here to be seen, namely, one in a chapel to the left, " Entomb- ment of the body of the Saviour," and in the chapel behind the high altar, the ** Entry of our Lord into Jerusalem." In a closed chapel to the left there is a " Dance of Death," and further on against a pillar a beautiful picture attributed to Jan Mostaeii, painted in 1518 in three divisions, on the exterior " Adam and Eve," inside, the " Nativity," " Ador- ation of the Magi," and " Flight into Egypt." Behind the high altar there is a remarkable clock (date 1405) with a procession of figures, the Emperor and Electors of the German Empire passing before the Saviour, at 12 o'clock. The Cathedral (sacristan, Harten- grube 73) at the southern extremity of the town has some fine brasses and bronzes, but particularly an ex- ceedingly valuable altarpiece painted by Memling in 1491, with scenes of the Passion inside, several figures of saints on the shutters. To lovers of painting this alone is worth stop- ping for in Lubeck. St. Catherine's and ;S'^ Peters are also worth a visit by the connoisseur of architecture, whilst the Jacohi- kirche contains some good pictures. The Schiffergesellschaft, an old guild house, and the Kaujleute-Companie, as well as the Hospital of the Holy Ghost, contain good carvings &c. The Hotel de Ville or Mathhaus near the St. Mary's Church, is a very peculiar structure, but the inside [is too much altered to give an idea of its ancient splendour. The eastern part of Holstein is well timbered and rich in lakes; a number of pretty excursions may therefore be made from Liibeck in this direction, toEutin,Ploen,Preetz, &c., but they are scarcely worth the attention of travellers coming from afar and merely passing through Lubeck. The steamers for Copenhagen start in the afternoon, early enough to reach the open sea before dusk. The course of the river is very winding, and although 'deep enough for large vessels, it is very narrow. The steamboat cannot therefore proceed at full speed. The banks offer no- 24 ROUTE 1. — LUBECK. JDenmarh, thing of interest, but the spires of Liibeck are constantly showing them- selves over the trees and houses, now in one, now in another direction, owing to the tortuous course of the river. At the mouth of the Trave, w here it traverses a sort of brackish lake called Pollnitzer Wyck lies Travem'tinde, a sea-bathing place much visited from Lubeck, and for- merly of importance because large vessels were obliged to unload, at least partly there— an inconvenience which has been overcome by the deepening of the river. A little b!.eamer runs twice daily to Trave- miinde from Liibeck and back. Shortly after passing the little town, the lighthouse is seen on the left, and now the steamer makes across the Baltic in a straight line towards N.E. for the Sound. To the left and right the coasts of Holstein and Mecklenburg, presenting wooded hills with large country houses, stretch away and disappear by de- grees, whilst night is setting in, and only the lighthouses at Burg, on the island of Femern to the left, and Dagerort in Mecklenburg to the right, indicate the presence of land for some time yet. In the morning when passengers come on deck the steamer has generally passed the island of Moen, with its white clifts, and is steering right N., entering the Sound, leaving the south-eastern extremity of Sweden to the right. For a short while the sea is often a little rough here, owing to the nar- rowness of the strait through which the waters of the Baltic here seek an outlet, but it is nothing to dis- turb tolerably good sailors. The headland on the coast of Sealand passed to the left is called Stevns Klint, and presents white clifts with regular strata of black flint, but being without trees they are not so fine as the cliffs of Moen. On the top of the cliff, in dangerous proxi- mity to the edge, stands Hoirup Church, built in 1357 by a thankful mariner in memory of his escape from a watery grave. The legend says that owing to the gradual de- struction of the cliff by the sea, the church would long ago have ceased to exist, if it were not that every Christmas night it is moved inwards as much as a cock's step. Farther on the steamer enters the " Drog- den," a rather narrow channel of deep water, through which almost all the ships which enter or leave the Baltic must pass. The distance between the low - lying island of Amager to the left and the Swedish coast is more than 20 miles ; but there is a submarine chain of lime- stone rocks connecting the two coasts, forming in one place an island, Salt- holm, which scarcely shows over the water's edge, and in other places shallow banks separated by deep channels. Of these latter Drogden is the most favourable for navi- gation, and the ships crowd in here as closely as the vehicles on a much frequented road ; most of them anchor up rather than enter this passage by night. Now the numerous ships on the roadstead of Copenhagen, the batteries defending the entrance to the harbour, and the towers and ■ spires of the town are plainly dis- tinguishable to the left, and round- ing the island-battery of Tre Kroner, the steamer soon enters the harbour, and lands her passengers at the cus- tom-house pier. Copenhagen, see Rte. 4. Denmark, route 2. — London to Copenhagen by Hamburg. 25 ROUTE 2. LONDON TO COPENHAGEN BY HAMBURG (ALTONA), KIEL, AND KORSOR. Overland route. Travellers from London to Hamburg via Calais, Ostend, Antwerp, Rotterdam, and the rlys. of Western Europe, all pass through Hanover, as described in Route 1, as far as Luneburg. But whilst passengers for Lii- beck leave the train there, those bound for Hamburg remain in the train till this stops at Harhurg, a town of about 20,000 Inhab. on the Elbe, almost opposite Hamburg, only a little higher up the river, but which does not offer anything worthy of notice. The trains from the South are met by steamers, which perform the passage from Hamburg in about f hr., or a little more, according to the state of the tide (returning from Hamburg to Harburg, one hour), and in fine weather this mode of crossing the Elbe is to be recommended. It is sufficient to point out one's lug- gage (which cannot be registered farther than Harburg) to one of the porters at the station, and note his number, with the request, that it should be brought to the Dampf- shiff ; it will then be put on large trucks and deposited on board, for which a small fee is to be paid on board to the porter. The pier is about 20 minutes* walk from the sta- tion; turn to the rt. outside this latter, then first turn to 1. and over the bridge along the water side ; then to the rt. across the drawbridge, sharp to the 1., following thence the high road, without possibility of mis- take. A cab to the pier 5 groschen. Ticket for the steamer, 6 groschen ; and separate tickets for luggage are lDe7imark,'} taken in a little wooden erection to the left just before reaching the pier. Once on board, the passage in fine weather is pleasant enough, the only drawback being the inevitable brass band, which has infested these boats at least for the last 15 years. The towers of the Hamburg churches are visible above the dykes which protect the low-lying shores of the river; but after a while the steamer turns to the rt., and the cities of Hamburg and Altona, with their forest of ship- ping to the rt., and the wooded slopes of the Holstein coast adorned with handsome villas to the 1., ■ present a very pretty panorama. The steamer first lands at Altona, and as the train for Kiel starts from the Altona station, it is advisable if no stay at Hamburg is intended to dis- embark here, and have the luggage brought directly to the station, where, if there is superfluous time it can be put into the cloak-room. There are not always cabs at the landing-place at Altona; but the distance to the station is insignificant. The fare is .^ thaler. In the summer the steamer from Kiel to Korsor starts from Kiel at midnight, and the corresponding train from Altona starts at 9*45, whilst the steamer from Harburg is in Altona at about 5*30. There is then ample time. But in the winter months the steamer starts from Kiel at 9; and the travellers must take the 5 '55 o'clock train from Altona, in which case there is no time to lose between the steamer and the train. If, however, a stay in Hamburg is intended, — and for those who come for the first time, it is well worth while to do so, — passengers should remain on board the Elbe steamer till it stops for good at Hamburg, when there is nothing further to do than to engage a cab and proceed to the hotel. There is no examination of luggage, the custom-house officers merely asking if the traveller has any merchandise by him which is liable to duty. 26 SOUTE 2. — LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. Denmark. The more agreeable way of cross- ing from Harburg to Hamburg, if the weather is bad, or if the party includes ladies with many small parcels, is to engage a carriage at the rly. station at Harburg and cross the two arms of the river by the ferry. It is necessary to bargain with the drivers, who ask from 2 to 3 thalers to anywhere in Hamburg, or a thaler more to the station at Altona, including the toll at the ferry. The drive is uninteresting, across a large flat island which di- vides the river into two compara- tively narrow arms, above the har- bour of Hamburg, below which the shipping, as well as the width of the river, would render a regular ferry impossible. The great advantage of the carriage is of course that there are no changes and no loading or un- loading of luggage, and the traveller is put down at the door of the hotel without further trouble ; but it takes more time, which is of importance if it is intended to take the next train from Altona. In winter, when the train which meets the Korsor steamer at Kiel starts from Altona, at 5*55 ; it is scarcely practicable to reach it otherwise than by steamer. Finally, there are omnibuses to Hamburg from Harburg crossing by the ferry, which however can be re- commended for single men only. With regard to the return journey by this route the following is to be observed. For the passage by cab from any of the Hamburg hotels to Harburg by the ferry, not less than an hour should be allowed as the 13assage of craft on the river often causes stoppage. Luggage is in this case examined immediately on enter- ing the Prussian territory, after crossing the last ferry, and before reaching the station at Harburg. Travellers coming from Copenhagen by the night steamer from Korsor and the corresponding early train from Kiel to Altona, and wishing to proceed at once, have very little time between the arrival in the last-named place and the departure of the steamer, which does not wait longer than necessary to get the mails on board. In that case luggage should be booked to Altona. But if the in- tention is to stay at Hamburg, or the traveller does not particularly wish to catch the first through train from Harburg to London, luggage may with advantage be booked from Copenhagen to " Klosterthor " or " Dammthor," on the local line, which serves the same purpose for Altona and Hamburg as the Metro- politan line in London. On landing at Harburg, coming from Altona or Hamburg, the large trunks, &c., are immediately brought to the station by the porters who are in attendance, on the order being given to one of them, and the custom- house examination takes place there. But hand-bags, and other objects carried in the hand, are examined in a little pavilion to the left just after leaving the pier. It will be seen that the crossing of the Elbe is rather a troublesome affair at present. When, however, the projected new great rly. bridge at Harburg is opened, the trains from the South will run into Hamburg direct, and the whole matter be very much simplified. The above description refers to the usual route to Hamburg from Han- over and places west of that place ; but it must be mentioned that in exceptional cases it may perhaps be found convenient, instead of going by Harburg to follow our first route as far as Biichen^ on the Berlin Hamburg line, and then take the first train to Hamburg passing by ; but it will be necessary in that case especially to ascertain that the trains correspond, as Biichen is a most un- desirable place to wait in. Sea route. The London office of the steamer to Hamburg is at Regent Circus, where berths may be secured, and all necessary information ob- Benmarh EOUTE 2. — HAMBURG. 27 tained as to time of starting, when to be on board, &c. The boats usually leave London early in the day, and arrive at Ham- burg next evening, the journey occu- pying in fine weather 36 to 40 hours. The greater part of the first day is consumed in descending the Thames, and when the steamer is clear of the Goodwin Sands it is generally dark. The course lies across the North Sea towards the coast of Holland, which is followed at no great distance, un- less the wind is N. or N.W. and to- lerably strong. When passengers come on deck next morning the Ger- man coast, or rather some of the islands which gird that coast, can usually be seen in the distance, while in middle of the day the island of Heligoland appears to the 1 , and late in the afternoon the steamer enters the Elbe. The coasts are flat and marshy, protected against the sea by dykes of considerable strength. To the rt. on entering the river, con- sequently on its 1. bank, lies Cux- haven, a small harbour belonging to the city of Hamburg, and serving as a pilot station ; in the summer also frequented for the purpose of bath- ing. In the winter when the Elbe is frozen the steamers must start from here, and the distance from Cuxhaven to Hamburg be performed by land via 8tade—Q.n old fashioned little fortress, where formerly the Stade dues were paid by vessels pass- ing on the river ; and llarhurg. The former fortress of Gluckstadt, in Hol- stein, on the rt. bank, is still in the marshland, but for the last 12 miles this bank consists of wooded slopes with numerous villas and well kept gardens and parks. The steamer first passes Altona, and then just beyond the boundary which divides this city from Hamburg, but which from the river is quite imperceptible, she lets go her anchor, imless the tide is high enough to allow her to lie alongside the quay at Hamburg (" Streits' Hotel," " Ho- tel St. Petersburg," " Victoria Hotel," "Hotel Kussie," "Kronprinz," all very good on the Jungfernstieg, Hotel de I'Europe, Hotel Belvedere, equally good on the Alsterdamm; Zinck's Hotel, near the Exchange, very good for gentlemen. Many others. Cab 14: schilling ; 4 sch. each trunk) — with 223,000 Inhab., is one of the greatest commercial centres of the world. Originally founded by Charlemagne, the city was subject to the Dukes of Holstein, but soon became a free city, and founded with Liibeck the Han- seatic League. Hambui-g has re- mained a free republic, though of course its present position as a member of the North German Con- federation renders it dependent on this political body. Formerly the city had no pretension to beauty; but since the great fire in 1842, the whole northern part has been rebuilt, and the part round the Alster basin, is equal to many of the finest cities of Europe. The river Alster traverses the city in several arms, widening at its entrance into a square basin surrounded by good buildings on the three sides, viz. Alsterdamm, Jung- fernstieg, where nearly all the best Hotels stand, and Neue Jungfern- stieg. The town was formerly for- tified with ramparts and moats ; but these are now converted into very pretty promenades ; the terminal point of the ramparts on the west side by the Elbe, is called Stintfang or Elhhdhe, and from here the view across the river, &c. is very inter- esting. Amongst the public buildings the only one really deserving of atten- tion is the new St. Nicolai church, built from the design of G, Scott in Gothic style, instead of an older building destroyed by the fire 1842. The Exchange is also worth visiting, though more on account of the ani- mation prevailing in business hours than on account of the architectural merits of the building. Both are close to the Jungfernstieg. c 2 28 ROUTE 2. — ALTONA. Denmarh Outside the town on the west side between it and Altona is [the new Zoological Garden, one of the best in Europe, with a good restaurant. Money. — The Hamburg money is peculiar; accounts are made up in marks and schillings courant : 1 mark = IG schilling. One schilling very nearly = one penny. The coinage is very inferior. There are pieces of 1, 2, 3, 4, and 8 schilling. Prussian thalers readily pass for 40 schillings, Danish dollars for 30 schillings. Cer- tain issues of Danish and Prussian smaller coin also current. Altona (Bahnhof s Hotel, also Ee- staurant and Cafe in the Railway station, Holsteinsches Haus, and »Strucker's Hotel, both close by) ori- ginally a fishing village called Alte- nau, from a small river (Au) which here finds its way to the Elbe, se- parating it from the suburb St. Pauli, received privileges as a mar- ket-town and other advantages in the 17th centy. from the Danish kings, who hoped thus to draw a part of the rich trade of Hamburg to their territory. The Hamburgers evidently thought that the scheme was likely to succeed, for they nick- named it " All - to - nah," that is, *' Much too near," and this nickname is now the acknowledged name of the city, which has nearly 70,000 inhabitants, and is a free port. There is nothing in the place to call for special attention of the tra- veller, being of so modern origin and an entirely commercial place. Money. — In Altona, as upon the whole in Holstein and Sleswig, Ham- burg currency is mucU used ; but the official legal tender is Prussian money. 1 thaler = 3s. sterling = 30 silbergroschen. Pieces of 1, 2^, .'i, 10, 20 silbergroschen in circula- tion. Excursions from Hamburg and Al- tona. — The neighbourhood of the two cities is pretty, particularly along the shores of the Elbe, and very nice drives may be made to- wards the E. to Wandshech with a royal palace and a park, or towards the W. to Ottensen and Blanhenese, villages on the Elbe with handsome villas and gardens, particularly those of two of the merchant-kings, Mr. Jenish of Hamburg and Mr. Baur of Altona, which are open to the public. A pretty view across the river from the Sulberg, a hill with a restaurant at Blankenese. There are three railway termini in Hamburg- Altona ; the station of the Berlin railway, and that of the Liibeck railway in Hamburg, and that of the railway to Kiel, and the north generally, at Altona. There is a circuit railway connecting the latter with various points in Ham- burg (Stations: Dammthor for the hotels, &c. — Klosterthor, for the rail- ways to Berlin and Liibeck). Travellers to Denmark may pro- ceed by the Liibeck railway, and thence by steamer to Copenhagen (Rte.l), or by the Kiel railway either to Kiel or some other place on the peninsula. There are two principal trains daily, and besides, at least in sum- mer, an evening express at 9'45 p.m. for Kiel, meeting the Danish mail- steamer there. Time 2| to 3 hrs. Altona being a free port, luggage is examined at the station, unless it be booked to Copenhagen or any place in Denmark. Tickets to Co- penhagen : 1st class railway and sa- loon, 10 thlr. ; 2nd class railway and saloon, 7 thlr. 22 sgr. The first station out of Altona is Pinneherg, a pretty village with woods and water, a favourite sum- mer resort of the Altona burghers. At Elmshorn is the junction for Gluchstadt on the Elbe, mentioned above, and Itzehoe, a very ancient but insignificant town, known prin- cipally as the assembly place of the nobility and other representatives of the duchy of Holstein, the so- called Estates of Holstein. Itzehoe is on the frontier of the Holstein Denmark llOUTE 2. — KIEL. 29 marscliland, called Dithmarschen, which in the early middle ages formed an independent republic, and whose inhabitants of Frisian descent long and bravely defended their liberties against the kings of Den- mark and the dukes of Holstein. After leaving Elmshorn the train on the main line to Kiel next stops at Neumiinster with important cloth manufactures, which, however, have suffered severely by the separation of the duchy from Denmark. It is an important railway junction. One branch leads towards the E. to Ploen (prettily situated between two lakes) and the small sea-town of Neustadt, on the Baltic ; to the W. the Neu- munster-Rendsburg line forms the main road to Sleswig and Jutland (Rte. 3) ; while the original line is continued towards the N. through the valley of the Eider to Kiel. The line from Altona to Kiel traverses the poorest part of the duchy, which twenty years ago consisted mostly of moors and bogs. Now, however, large tracts are cultivated. Nearer to Kiel, the Eider valley presents pretty lakes with wooded sloi^es. The river Eider follows the direction of the railway, and approaches to within a couple of miles of the Baltic, when it suddenly turns to the W., aud ultimately, after tra- versing the whole peninsula, falls into the North Sea. Kiel Junct. Stat. (Inns : Rail- way Hotel close to the station, Hotel Copenhagen) is situated at the head of the Bay or Fjord of Kiel, celebrated as the best and safest anchorage and winter har- bour on the whole southern coast of the Baltic. The depth of the water suffices for the largest men of war, and is continued until quite close to the shore. It is an ancient city, but has never been wealthy, or in possession of much commerce, Since the absorption of Holstein in the Prussian state, Kiel has been converted into a naval station, and when the works which are in progress are comj)leted, it will be the Sevas- topol of the Baltic. Of these, how- ever, foreigners can see but little, as the public has no access. The town prospers by the large gar- rison and the considerable sums of money expended on fortifications, &c. It has now about 24,000 inhabitants inclusive of garrison. The situation is exceedingly pretty ; a sail on the bay much to be recommended, and there are charming drives and walks commanding the lovely scenery of the bay in every direction, particularly to DusternbrooJc (Hotel Bellevue, Re- staurant, &c.) on the W. shore of the bay, and situated in a fine beech- wood, with view over the sea. A little further N. is Holtenau^ where the Eider Canal, which here forms the frontier between Holstein and Sleswig, and which connects the river Eider and thus the North Sea with the Baltic, opens into the bay. This canal was made by the Danish government in the 18th century, and is still of importance for the local traffic ; but as the passage, owing to the tortuous course of the Eider, often is very tedious, and the depth sufficient only for moderate-sized ships, it has never supplied the want of a short cut through the peninsula to accommodate the great shipping traffic to and from the Baltic. A scheme is now on foot, under the auspices of the Prussian government for constructing a canal which should fulfil this condition between the mouth of the Elbe and the Baltic, but it will be very costly, and will at any rate consume several years in execution. From Holtenau there is a pretty walk along the canal to Knoop, a manor with park. Kiel possesses a University with some good collections and a library, but frequented only by about 250 students. At the northern extre- mity is a Ducal Palace, now used for public offices, &c. A short branch line connects Kiel 30 KOULT 3. — ALTONA TO FLENSBORG. Denmarh with the line from Neumunster to Eutirii &c. in the eastern part of Hol- stein, a pretty day's excursion ; from Eutin diligence to Liibeck. The Kiel railway station is at the S. extremity of the town, but the walk to the landing-place of the steamer scarcely takes a quarter of an hour, simply following the water- side. There is an omnibus and cabs in attendance to meet the train. Luggage registered to Copenhagen is transferred to the steamer by the railway company. The steamers for Korsor start in the evening, earlier in winter than in summer. The boats are very good and comfortable for their size, and supper (1 dollar Dan.) can be had on board. The sleeping accom- modation is mostly very good. Owing to the lateness of the hour of de- parture, much of the coast cannot be seen while the steamer glides through the tranquil waters of the bay ; but on the return journey when the steamer enters the bay early in the morning, the rich character of the land can be appreciated. The en- trance of the harbour is commanded on the W. by the strong fortress of Friedrichsort, and on the E. the for- midable batteries of Moltenort and Lohoe. Other fortifications stud the shores of the bay seawards. Soon the Baltic is reached, the course kept by the steamer is nearly due N., and the boat is soon out of sight of land. After a passage of 6 to 8 hrs. Korsor is reached, from whence the journey to Copenhagen is continued by train. Twice a week there are direct steamers from Kiel to Copenhagen, in about 14 hrs. (fare 4 rd. 24 sk. Danish), a pleasant sail in fine weather. KOUTE 3. LONDON TO COPENHAGEN vid HAMBURG — ALTONA, FLENSBORG, AND THE DANISH ISLANDS. The completion of the railways in Sleswig and Northjutlarid as well as on the island of Fyen has opened an- other quick line of communication between Hamburg and Copenhagen, with a through train each way daily, namely by rail as far as Fredericia in Northjutland, thence by steam- ferry to Fyen, through this island by rail to Nyborg, thence by steamer to Korsor, in time to reach the even- ing express to Copenhagen. As, however, it is a fatiguing day's jour- ney, and as the objects of interest to be noticed are many, we shall di- vide it into two sections — Hamburg to Flensborg, and Flensborg to Co- penhagen. For Hamburg, see Rte. 2. ^ Starting from the railway station at Altona at 6*45 a.m., where direct tickets to Copenhagen can be ob- tained and luggage registered all the way, the traveller proceeds as far as Neumunster, as in Rte. 2. Here the train is divided, and whilst a part is despatched to Kiel, the main part continues the journey on the Neu- munster-Rendsburg branch to Bendshurg Stat. {Inns: Stadt Ham- burg u. Liibeck, Tahl's Hotel), where the rly. crosses the Eider from Hol- stein into Sleswig. The river is here divided into several branches, and as this circumstance in olden times fa- cilitated the fording of it, this place jDenmarJc, ROUTE 3. — RENDSBUEG. SLESWIG. 31 became the usual place of entrance from the south to the Danish realm. A castle was built here early in the middle ages, and a town soon sprung up under its protection. Afterwards the whole place was converted into a fortress according to Vauban's principles, with ramparts and moats and protected to a great extent by inundations. During the Sleswig- Holstein rebellion, Rendsburg served as the principal seat of the insur- gents, and after the suppression of tJie movement the fortifications were mostly thrown down ; nor could they nowadays have been of the slightest use in war. The town has about 12,500 inhabitants, and a little trade favoured by its position on the Eider, of which a part above Rendsburg has been converted into a canal, with several locks, and connected with the Baltic by the Eider canal, which opens into the bay of Kiel at Hol- tenau. The last sluice towards the W. stands in Rendsburg itself. The duchy of Sleswig, until lately a part of Denmark, has an extent of about 3300 Eng. sq. miles, with about 420,000 inhabitants. The Cimbrian peninsula, of which the duchy forms part, consists, as we have stated in the general ac- count of Denmark, of an elevated plain with a very gentle fall to the W., but ending abruptly on the eastern coast. The plain is upon the whole sandy, and has much standing water, presenting a most uninteresting aspect, w^hile the east- ern coast is fertile and well wooded. The railway through the duchy of Sleswig has for economical reasons been laid on the table-land, and the towns on the E. coast which are situated at the foot of the hills, mostly at the head of deep inlets from the sea, are connected with the trunk line by means of short branches. Although, therefore , al- most every one of the towns along the E. coast is individually prettily situated, the railway journey through the duchy, without stopping any- where, has nothing attractive. Soon after leaving Rendsburg go- ing to the N., we observe a range of hills to the rt., the so-called Hut- tener Berge, which, though scarcely reaching a gi-eater height than 400 ft., nevertheless] look very im- posing, because they are seen across a dead plain which seems wider than it really is. In ancient times they were covered by an extensive forest of which but little remains ; but the landscape near and amongst these hills is very pretty, and may be visited on a drive from Sleswig. The second station out of Rends- bm-g is Klosterkrug, whence a branch line takes the travellers to the town of Sleswig, whilst the mail train proceeds in a north-westerly dii'ec- tion by a cutting through the famous Dannevirke, tod after a short de- lay at Orsted in the centre of the peninsula, which is the junction for Husum and Tdnning on the west coast, reaches the so-called Kreuz Station or Nordschleswigische Weiclie (that is North Sleswig Junction) near Flenshurg, from which a short branch leads to this latter town. A new rly. branch is in construction connecting the town of Sleswig with the line between Orsted and Flens- burg, and the through traffic will then probably go through the town of Sleswig itself. We proceed to describe the towns of Sleswig and Flenshorg, each of which deserves a visit, and affords an excellent centre for excursions. Sleswig and Environs, Sleswig (Ger. Schleswig; Ravens Hotel, Stadt Hamburg, Stehns Hotel) with 19,000 Inhab., is situated at the head of the Slie (Germ. Schlei), a re- markable, 25 English miles long, narrow and winding, inlet from the Baltic, which here widens into the proportion of a large lake. The position is beautiful, and the view ROUTE 3. — SLESWIG. GOTTORP. Denmark, of the town and the fiord from the train is very striking. Though really situated on the sea, it is practically an inland town without trade or shipping, subsisting mainly as being the seat of several government au- thorities, courts of justice, &c. In the town itself the most re- markable building is the Cathedral, built in the 15th century, when a fire had mostly destroyed the older building. On this spot the first church in Denmark was erected in 827. It was renewed several times, and of these earlier buildings frag- ments remain of which the oldest date from the 11th century. The building has many highly inter- esting architectural details, but the principal object of interest is the Altarpiece of carved oak, formerly in the monastery at Bordesholm in Holstein, in 1666 transferred to its present place. The artist was Hans Briiggemann from Husum, and it was finished in 1521. The principal subject is the Passion, and the figures are executed with so great ability that this altarpiece is justly regarded as the best specimen of wood-carving in the whole north of Europe, and one of the very best that exist any- where. The church is full of monu- ments, amongst them a beautiful marble monument by an Italian sculptor, Caprara, over the sepulchre of King Frederih I. of Denmark and Norway (1533), his Queen and one of the Eoyal Princes. Besides the altar and this monument, the chancel contains an interesting n^e- tal font of 1480, a very fine episcopal baldachin, and 36 well-carved oak stalls in Gothic style. The burial chapel of the Dukes of Holstein- Gottorp, who resided in Sleswig, is also very handsome. The cloisters with pointed arches are unfortunately mostly bricked up. The church of ;S^^. Michael was originally a round church built of granite and Rhenish Tufa stone, but has been so much altered in the course of time that but little is left of the original building, which dates from the time of the Crusades. To students of the history of architec- ture it is very interesting. The convent of St. John, with its well ]Dreserved cloisters, and the church with a very remarkable lady's chapel, and highly interesting car- ving is very well worthy of a visit. The building presents a mixture of style, being originally built in By- zantic style with round arches, which partly have been altered into pointed ones. The earliest notice of this convent is from 1250, but it was doubtless much older. It is now an institution for unmarried ladies of the nobility. In a lake to the west of the town stands the castle of Gottorp, the only one remaining of the 7 royal and ducal castles which have existed in Sleswig. The original building, built for an episcopal residence, existed already in the 12th century, but the present structure dates from the 16th century, and even later. It served as a residence for the Dukes of Holstein Gottorp, who possessed (1526-1720) a part of Sleswig as vassals of the King of Denmark, besides a part of Holstein, which they held in fief of the Emperors of Germany. In 1720 Frederik IV. of Denmark took possession of their territory in Sleswig, and in 1773, when the ducal family had ascended the throne of Russia, the Danish government acquired their possession in Holstein in exchange for the duchy of Oldenburg. The rooms of the castle, which are now used for public offices, are mostly vaulted. The chapel is very fine, and has a handsome altar of oak with orna- ments of ebony and massive silver. Sleswig is principally interesting on account of its being so intimately connected with the Danish history, particularly of the middle ages. Its original name was Hedeby (not to be confounded with the ancient village Denmarh ROUTE o. SLESWIG. DANEVIRKE. 33 of Haddehy a few miles off across the Slie), but already in the 11th century it was also called Sliasvic; it is mentioned as early as the 9th century as a great emporium of trade belong to the Danes. It was the capital of the Danish King Go- trick, who fought Charlemagne, and was long the most important town in Denmark. Here the first Chris- tian church was built, and the first bishop established. The town was strongly fortified, and it served as head-quarters for the Danish army, which in those days was perma- nently placed at the Danevirke, which is close to the town, and one of the most remarkable historical monu- ments of the North. At the time when the Danevirke was first con- structed the lower course of the Eider, as well as its tributaries the Treene and the Sorg, were sur- rounded by marshlands and watery meadows impassable for an army. There intervened between these tracts and the innermost part of the Slie only a space of a few miles, Avhich consequently alone had to be defended against an enemy advanc- ing from the South, and the kings and rulers of Denmark have there- fore at a very early, even prehistoric time, attempted to fortify this posi- ticm. The earliest work of which history speaks is the " Kurgrav," south of the Danevirke, but of which now only vestiges remain. This was constructed against the threatened invasion of Charlemagne. Queen Thyra raised a far more extensive work to the north of this, stretch- ing from Bustorf, just outside Sles- wig, to Hollingstedt, on the Treen river, a distance of 9 English miles, and flanked by several mighty forti- fications, as the Oldenborg, and the now so-called Riesendamm, or Giant's Dyke. The whole nation worked at it for three years, and it consisted of a rampart 30 to 40 feet high, generally with deep moats, which was rendered less accessible by an enormous palisading of oak timber. Where the soil was too wet the rampart was laid on a ground- Avork of timber to prevent its slipping down . Behin d this work King Harold Blaatand, with a united Danish and Norwegian army, braved for a long time the German Emperor Otho ; but at length the enemy succeeded in set- ting fire to the palisading, and thus got the upper hand. Of this fire the vestiges are still to be seen. Harold's son. King Svein, who, during his warfare in England, had to take special care to secure the frontier of his kingdom at home, restored the Danevirke and finished it with a splendid wall of hewn stones. Again about the year 1180, King Valdemar fortified the Danevirke by a wall 2 miles long, 6 feet thick, and 16-20 feet high of burnt brick, of which the lower part is still stand- ing, though hidden by the earth which has fallen down over it. A century later the Danish rulers again fortified and improved the Danevirke, but after that time it was neglected, partly no doubt be- cause of tlie general weakness of the realm, and partly because the vassals to whose care the duchy was entrusted neglected their duty. After the acquisition of Holstein by the Danish kings in 1460, there seemed moreover less reason for keep- ing it in repair, the frontier of the king's possessions being moved so much farther south. Innumerable battles have been fought at, and in front of the Danevirke in olden times. In the battle of Slcswig, fought on Easterday, 1848, in which the Prussians were victorious, the Danish army was placed near the Danevirke, but very little use was made of it. In 1850, the Danish army again occupied it, and in the years 1861-1864 it was regularly fortified afresh, and the Danish army took its stand here at the be- ginning of the last war. But the position was too extensive for the c 3 34 BOUTE 3. — SLESWIG. Denmarh, number of tbe defenders. The low marsh lands which in ancient times were naturally impassable, had again been rendered so by artificial inundations, but the frost made a bridge over the water and laid the right flank of the position open to the enemy. The Slie, which ought to have covered the left wing of the Danish army, could for the same reason not be depended upon. Though generally too wide to be bridged under the fire of a defend- ing force, it has two very narrow places, at Mlssunde and at Amis. Both were fortified, and Missunde was attacked in vain as it had been in 1850 ; but the German army was so numerous in proportion that a passage no doubt could have been forced at Amis, and the Danish General de Meza, therefore retreated (5 February) in time to save the army. The new works which had been constructed by the Danish en- gineer, were afterwards levelled by the Prussians ; but the old dyke, which could not be levelled without very great, unnecessary, and unre- munerative expense, stands still, as an uncontrovertible witness as to who the original possessors of the land were. Numerous barrows in the neighbourhood remind us of the warfare of ancient times, and several stones with Kunic inscriptions raised in memory of valiant Danish war- riors have been found here, of which two may be seen in the park oi Louis- enlund, a small drive from Sleswig, a manor house belonging to the Duke of Gliicksburg, and where the present King of Denmark was born. A drive to the Danevirke and back may easily be made in two or three hours, and should be extended to a place called Kurhorg^ where cuttings may be seen. The town of Echernforde, on the Baltic, S.E of Sleswig, is also within a drive. An action took place hero in 1849 between some coast batteries erected by the Germans and two Danish men-of-war, who, being un- provided with steam, and being caught in the bay by a sudden change of wind, had to surrender. A steamer goes twice daily down the Slie as far as Cappel, near its outlet in the Baltic, passing Mis- sunde and Amis mentioned above ; the banks of the Slie are very pic- turesque. At Missunde King Erik Plovpenning of Denmark was mur- dered in 1250 at the secret instiga- tion of his brother Abel, who was his vassal as Duke of Sleswig ; the body was found by fishermen and buried in the cathedral at Sleswig, but was afterwards transferred to Bingsted, in Sealand. Two years later Abel was killed in warfare, and also buried in the cathedral, but the clergy complained that his ghost, which could find no quiet in the grave, interrupted the night services, and the body was therefore at the command of King Christoph I., taken away and thrown in a bog in the neighbourhood. Another excursion may be made by carriage to Idsted, north of Sles- wig on the high road to Flensborg, where a battle was fought the 25th of July, 1850 ; the army of the Hol- stein insurgents occupied a strong position, supported by a line of lakes and woodland, from which they were driven by the Danish army, and this battle virtually ended the rebellion, though, thanks to the sup- port of Germany, they still remained under arms for a few months, en- camped near Rendsburg,from whence they made two unsuccessful attacks on the Danish position at Missunde and at Fredriksstad. Flensborg and Environs. Flensborg or i^Zewstwr^jf (Stadt Ham- burg; Rasch Hotel; Bahnhofs Hotel) with 22,000 inhabitants, formerly a flourishing commercial j)lace, now since the separation from Denmark in decline, is situated at the head of Denmark. ROUTE 3, — FLENSBORG. 85 the Flensborg fjord, and has an ex- cellent harbour, with 7 to 15 fathoms' depth of water. But little remains of the old public buildings of the town excepting the two gateways. West of the town was a royal Castle Duhorg, where the famous Queen Margaret of Denmark, Norway and Sweden, often resided ; she died on board a vessel in the harbour in 1418. Now but a fragment of the walls is visible above ground. From Bellevue, a restaui-ant, there is a fine view over the town. The Cemetery also affords a fine view of the town and the neighbourhood. A splendid monument, erected here by public subscription over the bodies of a great number of Danish officers and soldiers who fell at Idsted, and con- sisting of a colossal lion, Was muti- lated in 1864, after the retreat of the Danish army, by a gang of roughs. It was removed to Berlin in 1864. A considerable proportion of the inhabitants of Flensborg use the Danish language, and the purely Danish part of the duchy, in point of language, begins from Flensborg. To the south of this town the Danish language, which 50 or 60 years ago was prevalent as far as the Slie and the Danevirke, has been almost superseded by the Low German; but, as many speak both languages, it is difficult to draw the boundary between their territories. Excursions may be made from Flensborg to Gluckshurg in the fer- tile district of Angeln^ between the bay of Flensborg and the Slie, which formerly erroneously w^as supposed to be the home of the Angles who settled in England in the 5th cen- tury. Originally a monastery. By Kloster, it has been inhabited by princely personages since the Ke- formation, and King Frederick VII. died here in 1863 in consequence of a cold which he contracted on an archaeological excursion. The castle lies in a lake surrounded by pretty beechwoods. Towards the south, about 6 miles from Flensborg on the high road to Sleswig, is a village near a small lake called Oversoe, where the Danish rearguard, both in 1848 and in 1864 sustained fierce conflicts with the advancing Germans, in order to cover the retreat of the main body of the army before their more numerous foes. In both cases the object was attained, though with great sacrifices. Excursion to Als and Dyhhol. — Another interesting excursion may be made from Flensborg to Dyhbol (German Diippel) and Sonderhorg, either by steamer to the last- named place (several times daily, a pleasant trip), or byroad, a distance of about 13 miles. The road leads through the Northgate, along the coast, through a wood called " Kob- bermolleskoven,*' in the neighbour- hood of which the battle of Flensborg was fought in April 1848, where the insurgents were defeated by the Danish trooj^s ; then turning east- wards across open fields to Graasteen or Gravensteen, — an old-fashioned large manor-house belonging to the Duke of Augustenburg, surround- ed by pretty woods, and famous for a i3eculiar and highly esteemed variety of apples, which from thence has sjoread over Denmark, but now is getting rare. From thence the road turns round a small but very deep bay "Nybol Noer," and soon reaches the village of Dybboh Nybol Noer is connected with the bay of Flensborg by a very narrow inlet, across which the Prussians had a bridge in 1864. The Danish iron-clad " Rolf Krake " (built on the Clyde) was sent to destroy it, but could not get near enough owing to her draught of water. She sus-» tained a very heavy fire from the Prussian artillery without receiving any damage. This was the first actual engagement of a turret-ship in European waters, and has been the subject of much controversy, as 86 KOUTE 8. — ISLAND OF ALS. feUNDEWiTT. Denmark, the German artillcribts erroneously maintained that their fire had driven the ironclad back. Beyond the village of Dybbol the ground rises abruptly, forming the so-called " Dybbolbjerg," which was the scene of so fierce a struggle during the last war between Den- mark and Germany. From the top of the hill there is a magnificent view over the surrounding country, which forms a peninsula called Sundered (Sundewitt), and across the narrow Als Sund to the island of Als (German Alsen) and the little town of Sonderborg. Both in 1848 after the battle of Sleswig, and in 1864, the Danish army, being compelled to retreat before superior forces, took up a position on this hill, from which it could threaten the flank of the advancing enemy, and where sup- plies could easily be obtained from Als, to which the road by sea always was open. In the first war between Denmark and Germany, the hill Avas left without any fortifications. In 1848 two severe engagements, 28th May and 5th June, took place in the front of the hill, but this was never attacked ; in 1849 the Danes after a smart encounter at Ulderup retired to Als, leaving the hill, save a tete de pont, in the hands of the enemies, who in vain attempted to force a passage over the bridges which lead to Sonderborg; but when a new war was foreseen in the years 1861-64, extensive works were erected on the crest of the hill, which though only having the character of field-works (with dry moats and without brickwork, &c.) resisted the attacks of the Prussians for two months. But the modern guns of the latter, which reached three times as far as the old-fashioned ordnance of the Danes, by degrees reduced the entrenchments to mere gravel heaps, and when the Prussians at last stormed the works on the 18tli of April the Danish commander had already resolved to give up the posi- tion. Tlie Danish army retreated to Als, which, as the map shows, is separated from Sundeved by a very narrow but deep arm of the sea. The same circumstances, however, which drove them from Dybbol, the immense superiority of the Prussian artillery, enabled the latter to force a passage across the Sound (29th June, 1864), for which they had made careful preparations under the shelter of a little wood on the Simdeved side, which the Danish generals had omitted to cut down in time. The consequence was that the Danes had to quit the island by sea. Instead of the ruined Danish entrenchments the Prussians have now erected very powerful works on the hill and around Sonderborg, converting them into a formidable fortress. The island of Als occupies about 100 English square miles, and has about 23,000 inhabitants. The town of Sonderborg opposite Dybbol, with an old castle from the 13tli century, was bombarded and de- stroyed by the Prussians during the siege of Dybbol. Nordborg, at the northern extremity, possessed also a royal castle till the 17th century, when it was destroyed by fire. In the centre of the island is Augusten- burg, with a beautiful park, the ancestral seat of the branch of the house of Oldenburg which bears that name. It came into the pos- session of the Danish Government when the Duke was exiled on ac- count of his participation in the insurrection in Holstein in 1848. Now it belongs to the King of Prus- sia. A short distance E. of Sonder- borg is Ilorup Hav, a very large and deep bay and natural harbour, by which the Danes in 1864 received their supplies for the garrison at Dybbol. Excursion from Flensborg to the Frisian Islands. — Besides the excur- sions already mentioned, a visit to the west coast of Sleswig and the JJenmarh eoute 3. — J'risian IslAndSj HtJstJM. tonning. 37 Frisian Islands may be conveniently made from Flensborg. Both the country and the people there are interesting. The marshland on the west coast, and the row of islands which gird it, are remnants of that extensive marshy country which is supposed to have existed at the southern extremity of the North Sea, at the time when the English Channel did not exist, and when the North Sea was nothing but a large bay in Avhich the Thames, the Scheldt, the Khine, and the Elbe, poured their waters charged with fertile clay. The greater part of the marshy alluvial land must have disappeared when the channel was formed, but remaining portions still are seen along the coasts of England, Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Sleswig. For many centuries the inhabitants have been contesting the ground with the violence of the sea ; mighty dykes stretch for hun- dreds of miles along these coasts, and from time to time new land is en- closed, but more is lost than gained on the continental side at least. The west coast of Sleswig shows this in a remarkable manner. According to King Valdemar's 'Jordebog' of ]231, there were more than 60 churches in the Frisian province of Strand, but after the great floods of 1300, 1362, and 1634, only 14 remain. In the flood of October 11, 1634, the sea broke through the dykes in 44 places; in Nordstrand alone 6000 men were drowned, and along the coast of Sleswig and Holstein 15,000 in all lost their life. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and much cattle is fattened here for the English market ; in the enclosed " kougs," inside the dykes, large and well-to- do farmhouses indicate the pros- perity of the people; but on the unenclosed parts the so-called "Halligs," either abutting on the dykes or forming separate islands, life is very difficult and entails many hardships. The houses are built on small mounds to prevent their being swept away by the water, which at high tides and in the winter for weeks together cover the pastures, the inhabitants and their cattle all the while living in their houses sur- rounded by the sea as close prisoners. The people are descendants of the an- cient Frisian nation, and have in some parts preserved their language which is quite different both from German and Danish, though belonging to the same group of languages as these and English. Many peculiar cus- toms, and as far as the women are concerned a very picturesque national costume, have also been preserved. Lately two sea-bathing places have been established, which are mostly visited by Germans, and which though certainly very primitive have their attractions, not only on account of cheapness but on account of the extreme simplicity and quietness. From Flensborg the train may be taken to Husum, a small town on the west coast (Momm's Hotel, Hol- steinisches Haus), from which small steamers almost daily proceed to the islands. If obliged to stop in Hu- sum for a day, an excursion may be made by rail to Tonning, on the banks of the Eider, formerly a fortress, now only known as the departure place of steamers to Lon- don and Lowestoft with cattle fat- tened in the marshes, particularly in the adjoining district of Eider' sledt. An hour's drive from Tonning is Friedrichstadfj a small town higher up the river at the junction of the Treen river and the Eider. It was founded by Dutch colonists, who had been compelled to leave their home on account of religious persecution. It has been of con- siderable importance during the late Dano-German wars, because, as above explained, the right flank of the military position of the Danne- virke was protected by extensive inundations. These were brought about by preventing the outflow of :j8 ROUTE 3. — THE FRISIAN ISLANDS. DenmarJc, the waters of the Treen into the Eider through the sluices at Fri- drichstadt. This little town thus became the key of the right wing of the Danish position. It was not fortified, but the dykes were in some fashion made to serve as ramparts, and the fcnn-ditches as moats; a couple of small entrenchments were added, and supplied with a few can- non. The place was attacked by Holsteiners in the autumn of 1850, and entirely destroyed by a bom- bardment, but an attempt to take it by storm was defeated with very great loss. The steamer from Husum to the Frisian islands winds its way by a very difficult and intricate course between numerous islands, of which Pelworm (very interesting old church and beautiful ruins of another) and Nordstrand, remains of the pro- vince of Strand or Nordstrand de- stroyed in 1634, are the largest, accomplishing the passage to Wyck on Fohr between the tides, as most of the ground it traverses is laid dry by the ebb. Wych (Redlefsen, Han- sen) is a proportionately well built little place, with a promenade, music in the evening, a little pier, and other appurtenances of a watering- place. The bathing is very good. The steamer continues the journey as far as Norre, a landing-place on the long and narrow island of Sijlt (Danish Sild). Carriages are in waiting to take the travellers across the island to Westerland (Strand Hotel), a small village on the west coast, far more exposed than Wyck, but preferred by some for bathing. This island is very re~ markable in several respects. It consists of a narrow strip of land 23 miles long, mostly only 1 mile wide, covered with sand-hills, to which on the middle of the east coast is joined a small constantly diminishing pen- insula of marsh land, terminating to the east in a high cliff, Morsum cliff, rich in fossils. There are no trees, and the inhabitants use peat for fuel, which they extract from submarine peat-bogs laid dry at the ebb. Many of them obtain a living at the oyster fisheries, which have existed for centuries, and yield several thousand barrels annually. The fields are cultivated by the women, while the men go to sea ; and in spite of all these disad- vantages, the population, which is less than 3000, is very well off. Some years ago it was stated that in the Danish funds alone more than £100,000 were owned in this island. In the northern part the Danish lan- guage is spoken. Both here and on the island of Fohr, a great quantity of wild duck are taken in so-called " Vogel Kojes," consisting of a large pond with canals diverging in different direc- tions, about 200 ft. long, and covered with nets, into which the ducks are entrapped, partly by corn strewn on the water, partly by tame decoy- ducks. In such a "Koje" as many as 30,000 ducks are sometimes taken in a year. From 3Iunhnarsch, on the east coast, 1^} mile from Westerland, there is a daily steamer in J hr. to Hoyer on the mainland. Travellers can return to Flensborg by omnibus or coach to Tonder (Tondern), which meets the boat, and thence by rail from Tonder via Twi^Ze/ junction, on the trunk line. SenmarJc. route 3a. — flensborg to Copenhagen. 39 EOUTE 3 a. FLENSBORG TO COPENHAGEN. From Flensborg the journey to Co- penhagen may be continued by two routes, either by steamer direct to Korsor, and thence by rail, or by rail through North Sleswig, Jutland, and Fyen, to Korsor. Direct Steamers to Korsor about twice a week, start from Flensborg quite early, so as to reach Korsor in time for the evening train to Copen- hagen. The panorama of Flensborg from the bay is very pretty, and the shores of the bay are well timbered. After passing some small islands and rounding a headland, we observe the castle of Glilcksburg on the rt., but only a moment, through a cutting in the wood. Next appears, to the 1. GraasteUj and then straight ahead apparently closing the bay, the so- called Broager land, a hilly penin- sula, ornamented by the twin spires of Broager church. The steamer takes a turn to the right, in order to round the promontory, and then emerges into the Baltic. To the left appears Venning hondj a bay fre- quently mentioned in the descrip- tions of the siege of Dybbol in 1864, and which formerly protected the left flank of the position at Dybbol hill, but now is valueless in this respect, because of the great range of the modern artillery. The new works at Dybbol are clearly seen from the sea, particularly if the steamer, as is generally the case, runs into the Alssund, in order to land passengers at Sonderhorg. The water here is deep enough for the largest ships, and the current through the sound so rapid, that it never freezes over. After leaving Sonderborg, the steamer rounds the southern ex- tremity of the island, giving it a wide berth on account of sandbanks. We observe the entrance of Horup Hav, a deep bay penetrating behind Sonderborg, and which was of tlie greatest importance to the Danes during the siege of Dybbol, because it afforded an easy and safe place of embarkation and unloading of re- inforcements, stores, &c. The steamer then crosses the Little Belt between the islands of Als and jEro, passes round the northern point of the latter island, and after a wind- ing passage amongst smaller islands halts at Svendhorg, an insignificant but excessively prettily situated town on the southern extremity of Fyen. The neighbourhood abounds in pretty walks and views. The island oppo- site is called Taasinge, originally 'Thorseng, that is " Thor's meadow," and forms a very valuable domain belonging to the descendants of Niels Juel, one of the naval heroes of Denmark. The castle was originally built for prince Valdemar, son of King Chris- tian IV. In the middle of the island Bregninge church, from the tower of which a magnificent view of more than 25 miles in every direction over land and sea, and the numerous islands ; 65 churches can be counted. In Svendborg and on Taasinge, there is a prosperous shipbuilding trade, favoured by the deep water and safe anchorage in the " Svend- borg sund." After leaving Svendborg, the steamer passes through a wider arm of the sea between Fyen on the left hand, and Langeland on the right, a fertile and well timbered island, 30 miles long and from 2 to 4 miles broad, belonging mostly to Count Ahlefeldt. The little town of Eud- lijohing on this island, was the birth- place of H. C. Orsted, the discoverer of electro-magnetism. At length the great Belt is reached, and cross- 40 HOUTE 3a. — KOLDINa. t^REDKRlCIA. Denmarh, ing over in a straight line, Korsor is reached about 5 p.m. The Railway from Flenshorg to Fredericia is worked as a direct con- tinuation on the rly. from the south to Flensborg. After leaving the North Sleswig junction,, uniting the short local branch which serves Flens- borg and the main line, we pass first Tinglef station, junction for Tonder (see above), and then reach Bodehro (German, Eothenkrug), junction for Aabenraa (German, Apenrade^a well to do town, prettily situated on a bay of the same name at the Little Belt, of whose inhabitants many are extensive shipowners and ship- builders. Farther on we reach Vo- jenSj junction for Haderslev on the eastern coast, with 7000 inhab. and a handsome church. From Vojens there is a mail-coach in 5 hours to Ribe ('' Klubbens' Hotel "), a small but ancient Danish town near the west coast, with one of the most ancient cathedrals in the North of Eiirope, built in plain but very massive Norman style (Ete. 8, end). Ribe is just beyond the present Prussian frontier, and the railway going north from Vojens crosses into Denmark Proper at Vamdrup, about 1 P.M. Hand-bags and unre- gistered luggage is here examined by the Danish douane. The rly. which hitherto has mostly passed through desolate moors and heaths now ap- proaches the sea, and the landscape improves. The first town after crossing the j)resent Danish frontier is Kolding (5.500 Inhab. ; Brods- gaard's Hotel), close to which are seen the massive ruins of Kolding- huus, built in the 13th centy., de- stroyed by fire in 1808. The huge square tower was built by Christian IV., and its corners were sur- mounted by colossal statues repre- senting classical personages. One of them, Hannibal, holding a shield with the arms of Denmark, is still standing. It is the finest ruin in Denmark, and very picturesque at moonlight. From Kolding a charm- ing excursion may be made to Slmm- lingshanke, 7 miles distant (carriage, 3^ rixdollars) ; an eminence with a magnificent view. It is a place of historical interest, because it was here that the North Sleswigers for several years previously to 1848 held monster meetings, to protest against the so-called Sleswig-Holstein agita- tion, and the intended separation of Sleswig from Denmark. A fine gra- nite obelisk 60 ft. high, with the names of their Danish leaders (amongst them Kriiger who now re- presents North Sleswig in the Ger- man Parliament) commemorates the fact. It was thrown down by the Germans in 1864; but is now re- stored, the locality which formerly was just inside the Sleswig territory, and thus really was to have been ceded to the Prussians in 1864, having remained in the possession of Denmark by a regulation of the frontier. Beyond Kolding the rly. passes through a rich undulated country with occasional glimpses of Kolding fjord and the Little Belt, which here is scarcely a mile wide, and of the opposite coast, and in a little more than half an hour the train reaches Fredericia (Victoria Hotel ; Kron- prins Frederik), where passengers for Copenhagen leave it in order to cross the Belt by the steamer. The distance from the pier is insi.gni- ficant, and there is time for lunch at the station. Fredericia was founded by Fredrik III. in 1655, and intended to become a powerful fortress, secur- ing the connexion between Jutland and Fyen; but the plan was never carried out, and although various advantages were offered to intending settlers, e.g. free exercise of religion — in those days a rare boon — the greater part of the area inside the ramparts remains unoccupied even now. The number of Inhab. is only 7700. In 1848 the Danes did not attempt to Denmarh EOtJTE 3a. — FREDERICIA. ODENSE. 41 defend the fortress, but during the armistice, 1848-9, it was thoroughly repaired; and when in 1849 the Danish army had to retreat before the far more numerous German forces, a garrison was left in Fredericia, which the army of the Holstein in- surgents advancing in the rear of the allied Germans besieged for two months, during which the town was destroyed by a bombardment. On the 6th of July a Danish corps V;d*armee, which had been brought ^ into the fortress by way of the sea, made a sortie, defeated the besieging army, and captured their camp and artillery and numerous prisoners. .^■In memory of this victory a fine mo- nument was erected inside one of the gates (on leaving the station the first street to the 1. leads directly to it), consisting of a bronze statue re- presenting a soldier, putting one foot on a howitzer, and waving a beech- branch as a sign of victory. The figure, which is known as the Danish Land soldier by Bissen (Thorvald- sen's best pupil, born in Sleswig), is placed on a granite pedestal; the total height is 20 ft. The monu- ment stands in an open triangular place; from the apex of the tri- angle two streets issue, of which the broadest and longest (Dan- marksgade) leads to the church and cemetery of the Holy Trinity (rt. hand in the street), where 500 fallen Danes rest under a barrow planted with beech-trees, and with a hasso- relievo by Bissen, two soldiers bury- ing a fallen comrade. Keturning by Jyllands gade, which runs parallel to Danmarksgade on the other side of the church, the 4th turn to the left leads to the harbour. A bronze bust by Bissen, of General Bulow, the Danish Commander in the battle of Fredericia, stands in front of the new and handsome town-hall, a few minutes* walk from the station. As a fortress, Fredericia is now valueless. The passage across the belt occu- pies only a quarter of an hour, but there is nearly half an hour's delay in Strib, on the coast of Fyen, before the departure of the train. The landing-place lies quite isolated, about a mile from the little town of Middelfart, where formerly the pas- sage of the Belt was mostly under- taken, the ferry landing at Snoghoi, south of Fredericia. The town is very old, and is the seat of the oldest guild in Denmark, that of the dol- phin hunters {Marsvinejxgere). A great number of these animals, which during the winter arrive in great shoals, are killed annually. The neighbourhood is very pretty, and the park of the manor-house of Hindsgavl, situated on a peninsula, which is open to the public (as in- deed are most of the large parks in Denmark) is reckoned one of the most beautiful points in Denmark. The railway from Strib to dense (11 hr.) leads through a rich and undulating district. The island of Fyen is in fact one of the most fertile parts of Denmark. Odense is one of the oldest towns of Denmark, the original name being Odinsve, that is a place sacred to Odin the principal deity of the hea- then Scandinavians. It is a flour- ishing place, and the population (17,000) has nearly trebled in this century (Hotels : Larsens' Hotel, Postgaarden). Its principal subject of attraction is the Church of St. Canute^ the national Saint of Den- mark. He was a grand-nephew of Canute the Great, and ascended the throne in 1080. He collected a large fleet and army with which he intended to dispute with William of Normandy the conquest of Eng- land. But the emissaries of Wil- liam having succeeded by bribery in creating insubordination in the army, it separated before the king's arrival. j This gave rise to bad feeling be- • tween him and many of his subjects, : on whom he inflicted severe punish- ments. An insurrection broke out, and he was killed in 1086 in Odense 42 ROUTE 3a. — NYBORG. Denmarh in the church of St. Albanus, while kneeling before the altar. He was afterwards canonised and buried in the church of St. Canute (in Danish Knud), which he had begun to build, but which was finished after his death, and named after him. Be- sides him and his brother Benedict, who gallantly defended him and fell at his side, several other Danish kings and queens are buried here. In the family chapel of the family of Ahle- feldt is the fine monument of Gene- ral Hans Ahlefeldt, who distin- guished himself at - the siege of Copenhagen in 1658. The ch. is a fine specimen of Gothic brick archi- tecture. ^ ' In Vor FrueslcirJce (Our Lady^s Church) is a very remarkable carved altarpiece by Glaus Ber^, 16 ft. high 10 ft. broad, with more than 300 figures. The famous artist, a native of Liibeck, made this altarpiece for the Greyfriars Church, at the ex- pense of Queen Christina, towards the close of the 15th century. The latter very fine church having been demolished in 1806 most unneces- sarily, the church of Our Lady bought this altar for the sum of 251. ! ! In the palace, which sometimes has served as a royal residence, is a g:ood collection of northern antiqui- ties. On an open space called " Flak- have," near the cathedral, stands a bronze statue of King Fredrik VII. by Bissen, representing the king giving the Charter, of 1848, which is still the constitution of Denmark. In the suburb of "Vesterbro" a small cottage may be seen (No. 1) which is the childish home of the poet H. 0. Andersen, whose tales are so well known in England. The neighbourhood has several pretty walks along the river, to "Fruens Boge," a beech plantation, &c. In the church at Fraugde, near the station of Marslev, the first out of Odense on the line to Nyborg, is the sepulchre of Thomas Kingo, son of a Scotch weaver, who settled in Denmark in the 17th century. He was a celebrated composer of church hymns, of which very many are still in use ; he died as a bishop at Fraugde manor-house which be- longed to him. Birkende, near the following station, was the birthplace of Hans Tausen, the principal of the Danish Reformers; but there are no memorials of him. Nyborg is reached in about oile hour from Odense (Postgaarden : Hotel Nyborg near the harbour). Formerly a fortress it is now without importance as such, and the ram- parts serve for nothing but as a pro- menade. The neighbourhood is rich and pretty, and a walk to the an- cient manor-house of Holckenliavn (fine chapel Avith good carvings) and the surrounding woods is well worth the trouble. The steamer for Korsor starts about I hour after the arrival of the train from Odense, the station being quite close to the harbour, and arrives on the other side of the Great Belt after a pasage of 1| hour, in good time for the corresponding up-train to Copenhagen. In the middle of the Belt the small island of Sprogo affords a very convenient stage for the ice-boats by means of which the passage is effected in winter. There is rarely solid ice in the Belt afford- ing a fair passage for sledges. Gene- rally the ice merely fringes the coasts ; often the water between these borders of solid ice is full of huge masses of floating ice. The mails, and such passengers as are disposed to try it, are then brought over in large boats, which are drawii by the men across the ice where it is strong enough, and rowed or pad- dled through the open parts. The whole distance being 18 m., a stage on the road is often very acceptable, and frequently passengers and crew are obliged to spend one or more days on the island. This has only a circumference of one mile, and i>enmarh tlOUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. 43 contains only a lighthouse and a plainly furnished hostelry, which of course is never used except when there is ice in the Belt. Korsor (Hotel Store Belt by the landing-place and station) forms the most important junction of the dif- ferent lines of internal communica- tion in Denmark, but has nothing to attract the attention of the traveller. Lately, the little bay, which is sepa- rated from the sea by a narrow pe- ninsula on which the town is built, and which, on account of the nar- rowness of the inlet, looks like a lake, has become known in the archsBological world as a locality for so called " coastfinds," accumulations of rudely manufactured stone imple- ments met with near the seashore, and no doubt traceable to the pre- historic inhabitants of the country. The first town at which the train stops after leaving Korsor is Slagelse, which, however, offers nothing worthy of special attention. Soon after leaving the station of Slagelse the rly. enters one of the most at- tractive districts of Sealand, rich in extensive forests and beautiful though not very large lakes, in the centre of which Soro, the next town on the line, is situated. The pretty lake appears on the left hand of the train, and soon a large white build- ing is observed in the wood on the opposite bank, viz. Soro Academy, a public school founded by the cele- brated Danish author, Ludvig Hol- berg, in the last century. The town is scarcely visible from the train, and as it is conveniently visited from Copenhagen we shall postpone the description of it (see Index) as well as the notices of the following two towns Ringsted and Boeskilde (see Index), whose cathedral is very well seen from the line, and whose beautiful situation at the head of the fjord which thus penetrates into the very heart of Sealand, can also be appreciated. The last 18 miles of the railway journey are uninteresting. The country, though fertile, and upon the whole well cultivated, is very bare. When the train approaches Copenhagen the castle and park of Fredriksberg appear to the right, and the journey's end is reached^ after crossing the belt of lakes which surround the inner part of Copenhagen, in litCi 4, EOUTE 4. Copenhagen (Danish Kjobenhavn). Arrival. At the railway station, as well as on the steamboat pier, there are porters, easily recognisable as such, who take the charge of the luggage and put it on a cab. Tra- vellers coming from abroad must themselves assist at the custom- house examination. On arriving at the rlwy. stat. the best plan is at once to hand the receipt for the lug- gage to one of the porters, and notice his number, he will then see to it. All these porters have a tariff for their services. Cahs or Brosclikes are paid ac- cording to a tariff, which is hung up inside the vehicle. The town is divided into districts ; the fare within one of these is 28 skilling, for each additional district through which the journey goes 4 skilling more. From the station into the town 2 marks, each box 8 skillings, smaller objects free. Any dispute is settled at the nearest police-station. It is the number of the cab, not, as in London, the number of the driver 44 ROUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. Denmark which the passenger has to take note of, for the sake of possible complaint. The fare by the hour is 4 marks, After midnight all fares are doubled. Omnibuses and Street-railways traverse the town in different direc- tions at cheap fares, and connect the old town inside the ramparts with the suburbs and the neighbourhood. The cars of the street-railways (sporvogne) are very good, and used by all classes without distinction. Hotels. — Hotel Phoenix, in Bred- gade ; Hotel Royal, Strand, opposite the palace of Christian sborg ; Hotel d'Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv, are the best and largest ; Kongen af Denmark, in the new central quarter of Gammeholm; Jernhanehotel and Hotel Bellevue, near the station, are smaller. The Danes do not seem to make good servants or waiters, and those in the hotels are mostly foreigners. In Hotel Phoenix and H. Eoyal several are English, in Hotel d'Angleterre almost all are Germans. Restaurants. — Scliwalhe and Ma- dame Vincent, Kongens Nytorv, A. Vincent, Holmen's Canal, and many minor ones. Cafes are very numerous; the best are Stephan a Porta, opposite the Koyal Theatre in Kongens Nytorv ; Gianelli and Co., corner of Kongens Nytorv and Ostergade; Cloetta, in Amagertoro (first floor, good view of Christiansborg Palace, &c. &c.) RicJiardt, in Bredgade, near Kongen's Nytorv, is the best confectioner. Sea-bathing establishments in the harbour and along the coast. The best at Charlottenlund and Klampen- borg, easily to be reached by railway. Roman baths in Tordenshjoldsgade, near Kongens Nytorv. Telegraph Stations at the General Post-Office, the Exchange, railway- stations, and the Custom-House. The best shops are in Ostergade and Kjobmagergade. We mention, as worthy of notice, the porcelain of the Koyal manufactory near the round tower; the biscuit and terra- cotta ware mostly after Thorvaldsen ; the jewellery from antique Scandina- vian patterns. Photographs are very good. Police Stations distinguishable by a green lantern outside. British Embassy in Bredgade, opposite Hotel Phoenix. English Church service in Stormgade, on Sundays at 11 a.m. Roman Catholic Chapel in Bredgade. Greek Catholic Chapel in Reverentsgade near Kongens Nytorv. Synagogue in Crystalgade near the round tower. Copenhagen has at present about 175,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in size and population. Although it dates at least from the 12th century, it has entirely a modem aspect, owing to the exten- sive fires to which it has been sub- jected; in 1728 1640 houses were destroyed ; in 1795 950 houses were burned; and in 1807 305 houses were destroyed by the bombardment of the English. It owes its first prosperity to the famous Bishop Absalon who lived in the 13th cen- tury, and it became a royal residence in 1443. It has been a fortress, and towards the sea it is still defended by powerful batteries ; but the for- tifications on the land side are not equal to the requirements of modern times, and will be demolished in a near future; the ground will partly be built on, partly converted into a promenade. Copenhagen has played a considerable part in the history of Denmark, and has sustained several sieges, notably in 1658-59, when the King of Sweden, Carl Gustav, as- saulted the town in vain. Until lately it was scarcely to be considered a very healthy place. The plague was a frequent guest, and, on one occasion, in 1711, 22500 died from a visitation of the plague ; in 1853 the cholera carried off about 4700. But now everything that circumstances permitted to do in sanitary respects Denmark, EOUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. 45 has been done or is being done. The water supply is excellent and abun- dant, being derived from large artesian wells at some distance ; but the low level of the ground renders the drainage question a very difficult one to deal with satisfactorily. The city consists of two parts, Copenhagen proper on the island of Sealand, and Christianshavn on the small island of Amager, separated from the former island by a narrow arm of the sea forming the harbour, which is generally entered from the north, the southern entrance being difficult of approach. The harbour is safe, deep, and capacious, and the traffic by sea considerable. Tlje town has a friendly animated asj^ect, and although it is not rich in architectural beauty, it offers very great attractions by the excellent museums, as well as by the abundant provision for all kinds of amusement. The principal objects of interest which no traveller should omit see- ing, because they are unique in their kind, are Tliorvaldsen' s Museum^ Frue Kirlce (our Lady Church) on account of Thorvaldsen's works, the Museum for Northern Aniiquitie.% the Ethno- graphic Museum, and the Historical Collectimi at Bosenhorg Castle; finally, the Exchange^ the Bound Tower, and the Tivoli. We shall first enumerate the build- ings, institutions, &c., of difierent kinds which at all deserve attention, and then proceed to notice those more fully which may require it. Copenhagen has 4 Koyal Palaces. Bosenborg** has long been disused as a residence (see p. 56). Christians- horg"^ (see p. 48) has hardly ever been used as such since the fire of 1794. The present residence is Amalienhorg, situated in the northern part of the city, and consisting of 4 smaller palaces, originally built by rich noble- men, but acquired by the king after the destruction of Christiansborg in 1794. In the middle of the open space enclosed by these palaces, is a bronze statue of Fredrick V. Of the 4 palaces the one by the colonnade is inhabited by the king; the one connected with it but nearer the Bredgade, where the guard is, is the Foreign Office, the next is inhabited by the Queen Dowager, and the one with the clock by the Crown Prince. The palace of FredriJcsherg, which with its park stands in about the same relation to Copenhagen as Kensington to London, is now used as a military academy. The parh* is very fine, and a favourite resort of Copenhageners. A street railway, which traverses the whole city, ter- minates at the gates of the park. Just inside is a statue of Frederick VL, (1839), who used to spend the summer here. He is represented in the act of giving audience. The principal church is that of Our Lady or Vor Frue Kirhe (see p. 61). Trinity Church ofters no- thing remarkable beyond its Bound Tower* (see p. 60). Vor Frelsers* (Our Saviour's) has a beautiful font with sculptures in alabaster, and a very peculiar spire, with an external spiral staircase terminating under a ball, which accommodates a dozen persons. From the top there is an extensive view of the town and the neighbourhood (fee 1 rixdoUar for a party not exceeding 12; Verger, opposite the church, No. 67.) The church of the Holy Ghost, HelUg- geist Kirhe, has an old, simple, but well-proportioned burial chapel, and Holmens Kirhe contains the mauso- leums of some of the foremost naval heroes of Denmark — Tordenskjold Niels Juul, &c. St. Johannes, in the northern suburb, is a pleasing specimen of modern gothic, in red brick. The so-called MarWe Church, near Amalienborg, was commenced in 1746, but as the outlay was found far to exceed what had been expected the undertaking was abandoned, and it is now a ruin — a melancholy tes- timony of the thoughtless extra- 46 ROUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. Denmark, vagance of past times. The huge square tower near Hoibroplads is that of St. Nicolai, all that now remains of a large church — the first in which the Reformation was preached. The cemeteries are all outside the town ; we mention specially that of the navy in Osterbro with the monument over the fallen in the battle of April 2, 1801. The Eoman Catholic Chapel in Bredgade, the Methodist Church, the Greek Catholic Chapel, the Reformed Church, do not offer any- thing of more general interest. Copenhagen is rich in institutions connected with science" and the learned professions. The Univer- sity* with 40 professors and 600 students, was founded in 1478. Its new building is not quite finished as to decorations, &c. (see p. 61). In connection with the university are the University Library* (see p. 60), the Observatory, the Zoological Museum, the Mineralogical Museum, the Botanical Garden (open Monday and Thursdays, 8 till 2 and 4 till 7), which is to be shortly removed from its present site at GammelJiolm ; the Surgical Academy, with various col- lections, physiological and Chemical Laboratories, the latter situated in Ny Vestergade, and one of the largest and best in Europe; the Polytechnic School in St. Pederstrsede, founded at the instigation of H. C. Orsted, the celebrated discoverer of electro-magnetism, and for a long time one of its directors. Independent of the university are the Great Royal Library* (see below), and the historical collections, viz. : — the Chronological Collection at Rosen- borg** (p. 57), the Museum of Northern Antiquities** (p. 52), the Ethno- graphic Museum ** (p. 51), the Ar- chaeological Museum (p. 55), the Col- lections of Coins and of Arms (p. 56). In this connection we may also men- tion the two large hospitals. Fred- rik's Hospital, in Bredgade, con- nected with the School of Medicine, and the City or Commune Hospital, a new and very extensive building (850 beds), recently erected at a cost of £150,000, outside the ramparts, and well worthy of a visit from pro- fessional men. Finally, we notice the Landbohoilwle, or Academy for Agriculture, Veterinary Art, and Culture of Forests, likewise outside the ramparts, a new and excellent institution in its kind. The Academy of Fine Arts is established in the former royal palace of Charlottenborg on Kongens Nytorv. The art schools established here have exercised a very con- siderable influence on the produc- tions of various trades in Denmark. The academy possesses a very good collection of casts, and there is an annual exhibition of pictures, sculp- tures, &e., in May and June (admis- sion 1 mark). "We notice in further detail the Royal Picture Gallery at Christ! anborg * (p. 49), the Royal Collection of Engravings (p. 56), and the Museum of Thorvaldsen** (p. 50). There is only one private collection of pictures in Copenhagen of any extent, viz., Count Molthe's Collection^ which is exhibited in the palace of Baron Reedtz Thott (see p. 61). The frequent fires to which Copen- hagen has been subjected have left but few old buildings worthy of notice, on account of their architectural merits ; besides some of those already mentioned we have only to point out the Exchange** (p. 56), and a fine old house, dated 1616, at Amager- torv, easily recognisable amongst its modern neighbours. Amongst the charities of Copen- hagen we may mention the Vartou, a large red brick building of the 17th century, near the western gate, and 4 difierent colonies of workmen's houses, somewhat like the Peabody buildings, calculated to afibrd con- venient and salubrious dwellings for the working classes, and yet to return a fair dividend to the owners. They are marked on the map. The Denmarh. ROUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. 47 Infant Nurseries and the charities' of the different trades are very | numerous. | The Institution for the Blind has a very handsome new building with praiseworthy internal arrangements, at Osterbro, just north of the citadel. A peculiar quarter is formed by the so-called Nyboder (new booths), long, low buildings, erected in the 17th century to accommodate the great number of workmen and sailors, which, in those days, were perma- nently retained for service in the royal dockyards. Lately the Nyboder have been considerably reduced in extent, and will probably disappear some day. Copenhagen has several theatres. The first in rank is the Boyal or National Theatre at Kongens Nytorv, whicli enjoys a considerable state subvention, and has exercised a very great influence on the intellectual culture of the Danish nation — the only nation of so small numbers that really possesses a national drama. Even those, whose know- ledge of the language is insufficient for appreciation of the higher branches of drama, will be repaid by a visit to see the ballet, which is dis- tinguished by a grace and elegance contrasting most favourably with the wild extravagance of this branch in other capitals. The present ugly building is destined to be removed, and a new theatre is to be built nearer Charlottenborg. The best places cost at the doors 1 dollar 32 sk., or 3 shillings. The Folke- theatery Casino, and others, are only of the second rank; but the locale of the latter is very handsome, and is used for public balls, &c., in the winter. The Tlvoli, near the rlwy. stat., is a gigantic Cremorne, but visited by better company, as all classes of society here mix and meet together — a striking feature in Danish out-of- door life. Tlje concert is very good, and the establishment is entirely without equal in its kind in any country. The Alhamlra, in the same line, is smaller. A walk round the ramparts is very much to be recommended ; those of the citadel are, however, accessible only to holders of annual tickets. Another enjoyable promenade is along the lakes whicli encircle the inner city on the land side, the so- called Kjxrlighedssti, in the town itself the Garden of Rosenborg offers at least shade on a hot day, whilst the Park of Fredriksherg, at the end of Vesterhro, abounds in shady walks and seats. But the best of the pro- menades, particularly in the evening, is the Langelinie, at the entrance of the harbour. The centre of the town is formed by the large and handsome square, Kongens Nytorv, in the middle of which is the equestrian statue of King Christian F., with allegorical figures, a work of small artistic merit, but forming, with its enclosure of green and flowers, a good centre. Here are the Hotel Angleterre, the re- staurants of Vincent and Schwalbe, the coffee-houses of a Porta and Gianelli, the Koyal Theatre, the Academy of Arts, and Count Moltke's gallery. From this square issue several leading thoroughfares. Bred- gade, the handsomest street in Copenhagen, leads in a straight line to the esplanade of the citadel, past St.Anne jplads iyfiih. the sitting statue of the poet Ohlenschldger, and the pier for smaller steamboats), the British Embassy, Hotel Phoenix, several palaces of the nobility, the Amalienhorg, the ruins of the marble church, Surgical Academy, the Eoman Catholic Chapel, and the Fredrik's Hospital ; turning to the right at the end of Bredgade one reaches Langelinie and the custom- house pier. Parallel with Bredgade is Store Kpngensgade, which is con- tinued in Osterbro and the Strandvei; forming a corner with Store Kongens- gade is Gothersgade, which leads past JRosenborg Garden (entrance in 48 KOUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN. CHRISTIAN SBORG. Denmarlc. Kronprindsessegade) to^ ^Norrebro or the northern suburb. Ostergade, the narrow central street of Copenhagen, leads from Kongens Nytorv, by Hotel Angleterre to another square Hbibro- plads, which is only separated by a canal from the open place in front of Christiansborg palace, and from \vhich Kjobmagergade, which forms a corner with Ostergade, leads past the General Post-office, to the Round Tower ; the continuation of Oster- gade beyond Hoibroplads is formed by Amagertorv (where the peasants from Amager may be seen in their costume) and Vimmelshaftet, which leads to Gammel-torv (the old mar- ketplace). From this latter, Frue Kirke and the university is easily reached by turning to the right, whilst Fredrihsberggade continues the line through the western entrance of the town to Tivoli and the rail- way station, past the so-called Fri- hedstotte — RJi obelisk with allegorical figures, Faith, Bravery, Patriotism, Industry, erected in 1797 in memory of the abolition of villeinage — and by way of Vesterbro and FredriJcsberg allee to the park of Fredriksberg. Finally, a large thoroughfare opens into Kongens Nytorv, behind the Royal Theatre, by the removal of which it will open directly in the square, which leads past the new building of the National Bank and Holmen's Kirke, to Christiansborg Palace and adjoining buildings, and turning to the left past the Ex- change, by the bridge Knippelsbro to Christianshavn, with Vor Frelser's Kirke, and to Amager. Before entering upon a detailed account of the various important buildings and museums, we may here make that general remark, that where the reverse is not expressly stated the admission to the museums is entirely free, although the guides sometimes pretend that they have had to pay for the admission of the travellers, and also that the gentle- men who are officially connected with the collections as directors, inspectors, &c., are generally present in the museums when they are open, in order to explain objects of interest to visitors, particularly foreigners, which of course is done entirely gratuitously. The largest public building in Copenhagen is Christiansborg Palace, which is seen prominently above all others from the sea and from every eminence in the neighbourhood. It is situated on an island bounded by the harbour and by canals across which several bridges give approach to it. The earliest castle of which history bears record in this place was built in 1168, but this was several times destroyed and rebuilt. When Copenhagen became a Royal resi- dence the castle was much improved and Christian I. and his son, King Hans, built a magnificent banquet- ing-hall, at the entrance of which were two effigies in basso-relievo of the latter and his queen. These are now placed in the entrance hall of the Royal Library, and are all that remains of that structure. A new, more extensive edifice was erected in 1725-27, but it was, at once, again demolished in order to make room for a splendid palace, built 1733-70, which was one of the handsomest in Europe. This was destroyed by fire in 1794, and it was only in 1828 that the present building, which is far from equalling its predecessor, was finished so far that it could be used. Nor is it perfectly finished yet in- side, and it has never been used for a permanent residence, but almost alone for festivities on a larger scale. The fa9ade is imposing and orna- mented with 4 colossal bronze statues executed from designs of Thorvald- sen, one, Hercules, by the great sculptor himself, the other three, Minerva, Nemesis and ^sculapius by Bissen. It was the intention that the four figures should typify Strength, Wisdom, Justice, and Truth, but when Thorvaldsen, who Bmmarh. eoute 4. — cheistiansboeg : palace. 49 was in Italy, received the letter con- taining the order he read by mistake " Sundhed/' that is Health, instead of " Sandhed," which means Truth, and thus ^Esculapius came to figure here, with Hercules, Minerva, and Nemesis. In the frontispiece is a group which is likewise executed from a design of Thorwaldsi n, re- presenting Jupiter surrounded by other deities. The interior can be seen daily (fee, 3 dollars for a party) by application to the steward or "Slotsforvalter" (Toihusgade 17, near the Royal Library, see map). The *Riddersal or Banqueting-hall is very large, 120 ft. by 50 ft., and 44 ft. high to the ceiling, decorated in white and gold, with a frieze by Bissen : the triumphal procession of Ceres and Bacchus. In the ante-room of the hall is Thorvaldsen's famous frieze Alexander's entry into Babylon. Several of the rooms contain pictures by Danish masters such as Lund and Eckersberg, and on the queen*s stair- case there is a fine group by Jerich- au, Hercules and Hebe, as well as a number of statues representing mythological characters by Bissen. The palace contains, amongst other apartments for public use, the halls of the Chambers of Parliament or Things. In the upper story the Eoyal Picture Gallery is preserved until a suitable building can be erected. It is open, free of charge, from May 1 to Oct. 31, on Sundays (11-2), on Tuesdays (3-7), in Sept 2-6 ; in Oct. 1-5 ; and Fridays (11-3), entrance through the middle gate, staircase to the left. The gallery consists of two parts, the general collection, and the col- lection of modern Danish paintings. The general collection is amongst the more important ones as far as Dutch painters are concerned, but it is comparatively poor in Italian works. In the 16th and 17th cen- turies there was a very close con- nexion between Denmark and Hol- land, and numerous Dutch painters found employment iu Denmark; [Denniark,^ many of the best specimens of the Dutch school were bought in Fre- derik V.'s time at the sale of Car- dinal Valenti's collection. The first three rooms (A, B, and C) which look into the court-yard, contain mostly large paintings amongst which the best are a Sh force under the command of Ciiarles XII. himself, and only rendered himself prisoner when disabled by numerous wounds. The remaining rooms on this floor contain numerous objects from the following reigns, amongst which we may mention the gold pistols of Fre- derik V., one of the gifts presented to him and his popular Queen Louise, daughter of George II. of England, and many relics of the unfortunate Queen Caroline Mathilde, The second floor is entirely taken up by the Ridderml, or great ban- queting hall, 150 ft. long, 28 wide, and 19 high. Its present decoration dates from the time of Frederik IV., the chimneys being all that is left of the time of Christian IV. The ceiling was originally flat, adorned with paintings, and the present vaulted ceiling, with its beautiful reliefs, was constructed -in 1705 and following years. On the walls are 12 large pieces of tapestry, woven in Denmark in the time of Christian V., from the cartoon of the Danish artist Peder Andersen^ and representing events in the war between Denmark and Sweden from 1675 to 1679. Ori- ginally the floor of this hall, as of most of the rooms of the castle, were laid with tiles, but they have been removed long ago and replaced by boards, because the weiglit was sup- posed to be too great for the walls of the building. The silver candela- bras, the silver lions, &c., are gene- rally used at the coronations of the Danish kings, and this is also the destination of the 2 chairs which are placed at one end of tiie hall. The largest, in which the king on that occasion is seated, consists to a great 60 ROUTE 4. — COPENHAGEN : UNIVERSITY. Demnarh, extent of the ivory of the iiarwal, which material at that time was worth its weight in silver, and it was then consequently a very expensive production. A hollow space is ob- served near the top, where a large amethyst, said to be the finest in ex- istence, and which is preserved witli the regalia, is placed at coronations. From the Great Hall small doors lead into the rooms in the towers. One of these contains the crown jewels, and is not generally accesl^ible to the public. Tids, however, is the case witii the two others, one of which contains a collection of Venetian glass, brought home from Italy by King Frederik IV., and still preserved in *its original arrangement. The col- lection is the richest in existence, particularly in the so-called thread or fiUgranglass, The other turret- room contams a splendid collection of china J both foreign — such as old Dresden and blue Sevres— and old Danish. On the rampart, close outside Rosenborg, is the new and well- arranged Observatory, which, how- ever, is not shown except to men of science who must address themselves to the director, Professor d' Arrest. Another interesting building erected by Christian IV. is the Church of the Trinity with the famous Bound Tower ^ originally in- tended tor an observatory, and em- ployed for that purpose for about 200 years. It stands in Kjobma- gergade, the same street where the General Post Office is, and is easily reached from Kongens Nytorv by walking down Ostergade to the square Hoibroplads,and then turning sharp to the right, when it soon presents itself. The tower consists of 2 hollow cylinders, between which a spiral inclined plane winds from the street to the top, with a suffi- ciently easy ascent to render it possible for a coach and 4 to drive up— a feat which was actually per- formed by the Empress Catharine of Russia when she visited Copenhagen in 1716 in the company of her hus- band Peter the Great, who on that occasion preceded the carriage on horseback. The inner cylinder served as a receptacle for the treasures of the University library during the English bombardment in 1807. From the platform (open to the public on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 12 till 1) there is a very fine panoromic view of the city, tiiough not per- haps so good as that from the spire of Our Saviour's above-mentioned. Not far from the top an entrance leads from the spiral- way of the tower to a large hall constructed over the vaults of the church, where the library of the University was preserved from 1657, when this building was finished, to 1861, when the library was removed to the present building close to the University itself. Just opposite the Round Tower is the Regents, a college established by Christian IV., where 100 students have free lodgings ; and either of the streets which flank this building leads to the New University Li- brary, one of the finest buildings lately erected in Copenhagen. It is entirely constructed of stone and iron, and is altogether very well worth a visit on account of its taste- ful and well-planned arrangements. It is open from 11 till 3 daily. It contains above 200,000 volumes and 4000 iMSS. The University library forms one side of a block, of which the others are occupied by the New Zoological Museum, the Mineralogical Museum, &c., and finally the University itself. The New Zoological Museum is not opened to the public (1871). Be- sides the exceedingly valuable and extensive collection of specimens, the building itself deserves notice. The central hall is particularly fine. The Mineralogical Museum ofiers nothing but its scientific merit (extensive collections of minerals from Greenland, Iceland, Faroes, De rh. RTE. 4.-^VdR FRUE KIRKE. RTE. 5. SE ALAND. 6l and Norway) ; but the new building of the University possesses a fine staircase and hall for special so- lemnities. The decoration of the latter was only begun some years ago, and will require a considerable amount of time and labour ; but the staircase is finished, and principally decorated with large frescoes by Con- stantin Hansen representing mytho- logical subjects. On the side wall, to the 1., the birth of Athene and Apollo and Fythia ; on the wall opposite the entrance, the history of Prometheus in 3 pictures; on the side wall to tlie rt., Apollo and Marsyas, and Athene and Poseidon. Smaller paint- ings form a frieze around the 3 walls, and fill the bpace above this. In the ceiling, Aurora. The 2 marble statues of Athene and Mercury are by Bissen. In front of the University are busts in bronze of the naturalist Schouw and the composer Weyse. Opposite the university is Vor Frue Kirkcy or Our Lady's Church, a modern structure in the form of a Roman Basilica, of very simple ex- terior but pleasing proportions in the interior. It is built by the same architect Hansen, who designed the present palace of Christiansborg, and derives its principal interest from the sculptures which were executed for it by Thorvaldsen. In the pediment is the group of St. John preaching in the Wilderness: in the vestibule, a frieze representing the Entry into Jerusalem, in the nave the Ticelve Apostles, in the chancel the Baptismal Angel, and over the altar Our Lord. The frieze in the apse behind Our Lord's figure represents the Proces- sion to Golgotha. Over the entrances to the confessionals are 2 bassi- relievi representing the Institution of the Sacraments, and over the poor boxes two others representing Charity and the Guardian Angel. Of the 2 bronze statues outside the church David is by Jerichau and Moses by Bissen. The works by Thorvaldsen are also in his museum, but they are here seen in their proper places for which they were intended. The vergers show the church at any time, the fee is 3 marks for a party. This is the principal church of Copen- hagen, and existed already in the 12th century, but the original build- ing, which contained an immense number of relics and costly objects, and was connected with a great many important historical events, was de- stroyed in the great fire in 1728. A new church was built in its stead, of imposing dimensions and great splen- dour, but it was destroyed by the English bombs in 1807 with the whole neighbourhood. The present building was finished in 1829. Finally, we have to mention amongst the objects specially worthy of attention, Count Moltke's Collection of Pictures, mostly of Dutch masters, which are exhibited in the palace of Baron Eeedtz Thott (entrance in Bredgade, 1st gateway to the 1. from Kongens Nytorv), admission free, on Wednesdays May 1st, to 30th Novem- ber, 12 till 2. Travellers can always obtain admission. The best of the pictures are in the long narrow room to the left, looking into the garden. We mention 4 landscapes, by Bmjs- dael (56-59); an old woman, by Bemhrandt (36) ; a monk, by Bubens (8) ; a landscape, by Hobbema (60) ; one by Dubbels (102) ; paintings by Mieria, Metsu, Ostade, Teniers, Wou- vermann, Vandervelde, Pynaker, &c. Catalogue by Prof. Hoyen (2 marks). ROUTE 5. SEALAND AND THE ADJOINING SMALLER ISLANDS. The railway net on the island of Sealand is now, or will soon be, so 62 nouTE 5. — ENVIRONS OF COPENHAGEN. DenmarJc. complete that all the places, which at all can claim the attention of the ordinary traveller, may be visited on excursions from Copenhagen, far more commodiously than by travel- ling in short stages through the coun- try. In former times, when mail- coaches and post-horses were used, several routes might often be used without great difference in the con- sumption of time, and no long dis- tances could be performed without stoppages, throwing time on the travellers' hands. Now the differ- ence of time consumed on a railway journey of 100 m., and that needed for posting the same distance is so great that no one dreams of adopt- ing the latter, and it becomes useless to describe in detail routes by which no one really travels. We shall, therefore, treat of the principal points of interest in Sea- land in the. mode of excursions from Copenhagen, and it will be seen that almost every point on these excursions may quite easily be made the object of a special excur- sion occupying one or two days, and that there is no necessity whatever for combining them in the routes we select. a. Environs of Copenhagen, The immediate neighbourhood of Copenhagen cannot be described as peculiarly pretty or interesting, being, on the colitrary, flat and spar- ingly timbered. The island of Amager (not as it is often written in English Amak) is very emphatically so, and offers absolutely nothing of interest. The inhabitants are de- scendants of Dutch colonists who settled here in 1516, and have to a great extent preserved their national Costumes. The whole island is an immense nursery garden, supplying Copenhagen with vegetables. But on Sealand itself, to the north of Copenhagen in a distance of about 5 to 10 miles, there are extensive tracts of woodland, stretching through a considerable area, partly along the sea, partly surrounding numerous small inland lakes, and in this direction there are a great many pretty excursions to be made. In spite of its high latitude, the summer in Copenhagen is generally hot and often oppressive. It is therefore the custom for the Copenhagen cockneys to seek summer quarters — often very modest and at the same time very expensive ones— for some weeks at least in the neighbourhood, and the favourite place of resort is the Strand- vei or road along the sea-shore, as well as the villages to the north of the town. The thousands of small and large houses and pretty gardens, inhabited during the summer months, which are scattered over the country, give it a very lively and pretty ap- pearance. The North Sealand Kail way, start- ing from the great railway station outside the western gate, affords an easy and quick communication with these places ; but in order to enjoy it properly it is preferable (though certainly more expensive) to take a carriage-drive by the Strandvei or by the high road to Lyngby to those parts of the neighbourhood which can thus be visited. The price for a two-horse carriage varies from 6 to 10 or even 12 dollars a day, besides a dollar for the driver and his keep. About 5 miles from Copenhagen on the Strandvei is Charlottenlund^ a park or rather a mixture of wood and garden covering about 80 acres, and surrounding a countryhouse belong- ing to the Crown, and generally tenanted by some member of the Koyal Family, at present the Crown Prince. On Sunday afternoons and feast-days tens of thousands fill its walks and glades ; dancing and music is going on till late at night, and when the last train and the last omnibus or char a banc have re- turned to town there are still many hundreds left, who prefer to walk Denmarh [HOUTE 5. — DEER-PARK. 6d home with song and merriment in the cool of a light Danish summer night. Close to Charlottenlund are capital sea-baths at an establishment called Oresund. Through Charlottenlund the carriage-road, continued in a magnificent lime avenue, lea' Is to Bernstorfff a manor-house built a century ago by Count A. P. Bernstorfif, then a famous and influential man in Denmark, now in the possession of the Crown, and used by the Royal family as a summer residence. Fur- ther inland, and to be reached by the same rt^d, is Lynghy, with the small pala« and beautifnl park of Sorgenfri ^autiful roses), residence of the Qu^Ri Dowager, from whence the extensive woods of Fredriksdal, surrounding the lake of Fureso^ may be reached by road or in a boat on the lake of Lyngby. The high road and the rly. to Fredriksborg and Elsinore go through Lyngby. jHbVs- holm (p. 64) is easily reached by way of Lyngby. Continuing the journey by the Strandvei for about 3 miles beyond Charlottenlund we come to the Deer- park, the gem of the environs of Copenhagen. Both this and Char- lottenlund may be reached by fre- quent trains which start from a separate little station beyond the main station at Copenhagen. From the railway, as well as from the Strandvei, the Deer-park is entered at the south-east corner. Just out- side, with a good view of the Sound and close to the landing-place of the steamers, is ft very good restaurant called Bellevue. Of the adjoining corner of the park a considerable space is taken up by a sea-bathing establishment called Klampenhorg, with a good restaurant and hotel, concerts, fetes, cottages, and lodging- houses. From the grounds a good view of the sea. The sea-baths are accessible to the general public. Many Swedes and Germans come here for the summer. The Deer-park itself is an enclosure of about 4200 acres divided in two parts by a small river, which supplies the necessary water power for a large paper mill at the outfall in the Sound, and for 2 manufactories in the park itself. The southern part of the park, about 2800 acres with fine timber, espe- cially magnificent beeches, is a Royal preserve, and vast herds of stags, red deer and fallow deer may be seen grazing on its glades or lying down under the trees. The large white stags are particularly beautiful. In the middle of an open space stands Eremitagen (the Hermitage), a small Royal hunting-pavilion. Some of the rooms (very plain inside) are accessible to the public and can be used for pic-nics. The view across the Sound to the coast of Sweden is very fine from the Hermitage, as well as from many other points in the park. On the 5th June a great national festivity is generally held here in honour of the Danish con- stitution. At a little distance are three large stones with inscriptions, erected one in commemoration of the first meeting here of students from all the Scandinavian universities; the two others commemorate visits to Copenhagen by a great number of Sleswigers in 1861, and again in 1865. In the southern part of the enclosure is an open space called Dyrehavsbakken, where a very ani- mated fair is held every year in the months of June and July. Roads and paths cross the park in every direction. One road runs parallel with the southern fence by Dyre- havsbakken, and leads from the gate at Klampenborg to tliat of Fortunen, where just outside the park a fine distant view of Copenhagen and the sea presents itself. Tlie continuation of the road leads through the wood, and the above-mentioned avenue to Bernstorfi*, which is seen in the fore* ground and further on to Charlotten- lund. The rt. road leads through open fields to Lyngby {see above). The narrow slip of land between 64 fiOtJTE 5. — ELSlNOftE. Jenmari k the park and the sea is oversown with villas of every ghade of size or elegance, amongst which we note Skodsborg where Frederik VII. used to spend a few months every sum- mer. Farther north beyond tlie Deer- park are the villages of Vedboik (here is the park of Enrum open to the pub- lic) and Rungsted. The coast is here in many places high, and afibrds splendid views of the sea, for in- stance from a barrow called " Lokes- hoi " to the rt. of the road just north of the Deerpark, and from " Evvald- hoi * near tlie inn at Kungsted, where the poet Ewald spent his last years. The island of Hveen, where the astronomer Tycho Brake resided > and where the toundations of his castle and observatory are still seen, is only 7 miles distant; to the south of it on the more distant coast of | Sweden appears the town of Lands- j hrona ; towards the north Kronhorg \ on the Danish coast is distinctly | seen. Two miles inland from Kung- | sted is Horsliolm or Hirscliholni, j where Christian VI. erected a mag- nificent palace in the years 1738- 1744. It was called the Versailles of the north, and certainly sur- passed most royal residences in splendour. Here Caroline Mathilde spent her last summers in Denmark. Fredrik VI., who was born here, but disliked the palace, suffered it to fall into decay, and in 1810 its demolition was ordered. Where the palace stood is now a small plain church. But of the surrounding grounds a portion at least }emains. From here there is by road 10 miles through woods to Lyng- by, and about 6 to the nearest station on the North Sealand Railway. The Sound being not more than 18 miles wide between Copenhagen and Malmo in Sweden, an excursion to this town and the neighbourhood may easily be made from Copen- hagen. There are several steamers daily each way. For details of Malmo, &c., we refer to the Handbook for Sweden. b. Msinore, Fredriksborg^ and North Sealand. Elsinore may be reached con- veniently, either by land by way of the North Sealand Eailway or by direct steamer ; and both routes should be made use of, one for going the other for returning. As the steamer keeps close to the Danish coast, which has an easterly aspect, an early departure should be chosen ; we recommend to go from Copen- hagen to Elsinore by a morning steamer and return by train. Elsi- nore and Kronborg may be seen in a day easily ; and one may even see Kronborg in the morning, and reach Fredriksborg by an afternoon train in time to see the castle, and reach Copenhagen by the last train in the evening. But it is better either to sleep at Elsinore, and next day return by Fredensborg and Fredriks- borg, or to drive in the afternoon to Fredensborg, return from thence to Copenhagen by rail and make Fred- riksborg the subject of a separate ex- cursion. If more time is at disposal, a drive from Elsinore to Hellebsek and Gilleleie would occupy one day, and if Fredriksvserk, Jsegerspriis, and Fredriksund are visited from Fred- riksborg this would add three days more. The coast of the Sound north of Copenhagen as far as Rungsted is excessively pretty from the sea when illuminated by the morning sun ; it appears almost one immense garden with houses of every description dotted about ; and as the ships passing the Sound to and from the Baltic almost all keep near to the Danish coast, partly on account of the prevalence of westerly winds, partly because tlie sand-banks are fewer — this circumstance contri- butes very much to heighten the charms of the journey. The steamer stops at several points on the coast, Benmarh ete. 5. — blsinoee. kronboeg. hamlet's grave. G5 such as Klampenborg, Vedbsek, Rung- sted, Humlebsek, and after passing the island of Hveen, Tycho Brahe's island, enters the harbour of Elsinore about 2 hours, or even sooner after leaving Copenhagen. Generally the boat proceeds after a short interval to Helsingborg in Sweden and back. Elsinore, Danish Helsingor (Hotel Oresund), is a very old town, and formerly derived its wealth almost entirely from the Sound due^which were paid here by all vesse^ going to or coming from the BaltS The payment of this impost necessitated the stoppage of the vessels, which therefore often took their supplies here; and numerous agents made a considerable income by arranging everything beforehand for the cap- tains of the ships, so that the delay might be reduced to the smallest possible time. Before 1660, when ISkaane still belonged to Denmark, the main communication between the provinces on both sides of the Sound was by way of Helsingor, and the opposite Helsingborg, the width of the Sound being here not more than 21 miles. Partly to facilitate the enforcement of the Sound dues, partly to prevent the passage of hostile fleets, a fortified castle was at a very early time constructed on each coast of the Sound. The one at Helsingborg has disappeared save an old square tower, prominently seen from tlie Danish coast ; but the castle of Helsingor still exists, it is the well-known castle of Kronborg. As a fortress this has now no import- ance. The present edifice, a quad- rangle, with 4 towers, was built 1574-1585, in the renaissance style of the period by Fredrik II., and is, whether it be seen from the sea or from the shore, a very picturesque object. The interior can be viewed on application to the commander (in the courtyard to the right; fee to the servant who opens the door, &c., 1 rixdollar). In the rooms there is a collection of pictures by modern Danish masters, and from the windows a lovely sea- view. Caroline Mathilde inhabited a small apartment here in 1772 before she was taken to Hanover, and her rooms are still shown. One of the turrets serves as a lighthouse. The chapel has been restored, and is worth seeing ; the numerous Ger- man inscriptions show that it dates from the time when the kings of the house of Oldenborg were still more German than Danish. From the telegraph tower the view is also very good in the afternoon. To the north of the town within a short walk is Marienlyst, originally a Royal marine residence, now belong- ing to a much-frequented sea-bath- ing establishment. The grounds in front of the house are accessible to the public at large, as well as the restaurant, which is tolerably good ; but the building— containing bal- conies with fine view, reading-rooms, &c., as well as the table d'hute at 4 o'clock, and the terrace behind the house, are accessible only for sub- scribers, or for travellers on payment of a fee of 2 marks for the day. On the terrace behind is shown what is called the grave of Hamlet, a circle of trees round a fragment of a column. English travellers naively believing, on the authority of Shakespeare, that Hamlet really had something to do with Kronborg, although in reality he lived in quite a different part of the country, and a thousand years before Kronborg was built, used so constantly to ask the guides for Hamlet's grave that these saw themselves in the necessity of invent- ing one, and some bright individual hit upon this spot, which has ever since retained the name. The tour- ists, however, were not yet satisfied ; as soon as a grave was found for Hamlet it became necessary to dis- cover Ophelia's brook, and this, too, was successfully accomplished. It is shown north of Marienlyst garden, near a delightful path which runs at 66 EOUTE 5. — ELSINOEE. Denmark, the foot of the high coast parallel with the shore to Hellebsek. The spot is pretty, and so far well chosen, but there are but very few inches of water in this modern Ophelia's brook — a circumstance which unavoidably suggests the profane thought that the lady must have had some dif- ficulty in drowning herself here. In the same direction, but close to the shore, is the Bathing Hotel, where apartments can be had with a fine sea-view, but rather dear. Lodgings are to be found in many houses in or about Ilelsingor, but they are generally taken early in the season. Many foreigners come hither, mostly Germans ; the bathing is at any rate better than in the Baltic, and the neighbourhood is so pretty that a very pleasant time certainly may be spent here. The environs of Helsingor are well tim- bered, but the beauty of the place is the view of the sea, which, in sum- mer, is deep blue, backed by the charmingly wooded Swedish coast, with the hea(iland of Kullen, a re- markable isolated mass of granite 900 ft. high, in the distance, and enlivened by hundreds of vessels constantly speeding through this narrow channel to or from the Baltic. In this respect Helsingor is unique ; nowhere in the world are so many ships seen constantly together in movement, and to the lover of the sea and of ships few things can be more amusing than cruising about in a boat at the entrance of the Sound. A very pretty drive of about 3 miles through woods and past beau- tiful little lakes, leads to Eellehcih, north of Helsingor, at the mouth of a small river. Here a considerable manufacture of fiiearms and various iron goods was established a century ago and exists still. In the summer • the place is filled by people from Copenhagen, who for a few weeks occupy the very modest apartments that can be found in the houses of the artizans or the huts of the fishermen, in order to enjoy the fresh air and the bathing. The woods of Hellebsek, which form a park to the manor-house of that name, are laid out in pretty walks, and the timber is splendid. Another mile along the shore leads to Odins- hoi, the highest point on the coast, from which a charming view of the entrance to the Sound and of Kron- borg. Carriages for a drive to Hel- lebsek and Odinshoi, occupying half a day, may be had at tlie hotels at Elsinore and at the station, price about 3 dollars (1 horse) and pour hoire. Pedestrians will prefer the path along the coast starting from Marienlyst. A more extensive ex- cursion may be made along the coast through HellebsBk and Hornhxh, a fishing- village, near a very charac- teristic plantation for subduing the drifting sand, to Nakkehoved, with 2 lighthouses. From the upper light- house is a very interesting sea-view, and in the pretty little garden — doubly pleasing in this desolate spot — travellers can pic-nic, but provi- sions must be brought. Further on is Gilleleie, on the northern extremity of Sealand, with a very good inn. The return road should be laid through Soborg, a village near the scanty ruins of the once famous castle of Soborg, in a lake which is now laid dry. Many state prisoners have been kept in durance vile here in the early middle ages. The road next reaches Esrom, once a powerful and wealthy monastery, but of which only small fragments remain. It is at the north end of the lake of Esrom, with beautifully-wooded shores. A canal connects it with the sea, and serves for the export of firewood from the adjoining forests. The route back to Elsinore from Esrom should be laid either north of the lake of Gurre, through the woods of Horserod, &c. ; or else, if it is in- tended to visit the ruin of Gurre {see below) west and south of the lake, Denmarh EOUTE 6. — FREDENSBORG. 67 and through the village. Excur- sionists who are on their way back to Copenhagen from Elsinore, may proceed from Gurre to Fredenshorg^ and send the carriage back to Elsin- ore from there. A carriage for this excursion, which fully occupies a day, costs 6 to 8 dollars. The return from Elsinore to Copen- hagen may be made by rail in about 1^ or 2 hours, but even if Fredriks- borg is visited separately, it is far better to go by road from Elsinore to Fredensborg by way of Gurre, and only take the train there. Gurre, about 6^ miles from Elsinore, was in the early middle ages a favourite residence of several Danish kings, particularly Valdemar II., whose paramour Tovelille, of whom the old ballads have much to say, was kept hidden here. The legend says that Valdemar used to exclaim that God might keep his heaven, if he (the king) only might retain Gurre ; and, consequently, his unhappy soul is still lingering there, and often of a night he is seen hunting, with a mysterious and awful troop of fol- lowers, and a pack of fiery dogs. The castle, situated in an idyllic spot near the lake and village of Gurre, fell into disuse in the 15th century, and the stones were mo.-tly used in the construction of Fredriksborg. The remains are now enclosed, and the key can be had in a cottage close by. Further on, near Valdemarslund, the residence of the principal officer of the extensive woods in this district, which all belong to the Crown, is another fine view of the lake. The road turns sharp to the left, passes by Marianelund — a modest inn, favoured by pedestrians in summer, through another wood, Danstrup- heyn, and past the Bostgaard stone across fields lo Fredensborg 13 miles from Elsinore. The Rostgaard stone commemorates a bold attempt made by Hans Bostgaard and 2 others to regain possession by a coup de main of the fortress of Kronborg, which in the year 1658 had fallen into the hands of the Swedes. The plan was discovered, and the leaders had to fiy for their lives. Rostgaard, in order to deceive his pursuers, killed his horse at the side of a pond here where the stone stands and threw off his clothes, which made them believe that he had been killed and drowned in the lake, and thus he escaped. He was owner of a manor called Krogerup (beautiful park, open to the public) a few miles off near Humlebsek, a fishing- village on the coast, where the steamers to and from Elisnore stop. Fredensborg (Store Kro, Prindsen) owes its origin to the royal summer residence of this name which w^as built here at the beginning of last century, and which still is used as such. It was finished in 1720, and named so because the treaty of peace (Danish Fred) which put an end to the ** eleven years' war" between Denmark and Sweden was concluded here. The Palace possessing but little internal beauty besides the entrance hall, which is very fine, and a few good old ceilings with stucco- reliefs in the style of Louis XIV. (fee, 2 dollars for a party not ex- ceeding 12). But the park is un- questionably amongst the finest in the world ; it abounds in magnificent avenues, cliarming flower-beds, ter- races, sculptures, &c., and its beauty is much enhanced by the lake of Esrom and its wooded shores. Boats can be had in the so-called Skipper- huus. One of the cliief features of the park is the " Normandsdalen," containing a number of figures re- presenting Norwegian peasants in national costumes. From Fredensborg, a drive through the woods of about 5 miles, with views over Esrom lake to the right, leads to Fredriksborg. The name of the little town is really Hillerod, but the name of the castle, which forms the one great point of attraction, is very generally used for the town too. 68 ROUTE b. — FREDRIKSBORG. Denmarh (Leidersdorf Hotel, very modest; good restaurant at the railway sta- tion.) The original castle of Fredriks- borg was built by Fredrik II. in 1562, and a part of the present build- ing dates from him, but the main portion was taken down and replaced by the present palace in the years 1602-1608 by Christian IV. On the 17th of December, 1859, a terrific fire destroyed almost the whole of the interior, and a great mass of valuable historical relics were lost on that oc- casion, but the walls remained stand- ing, and, thanks to the numerous de- scriptions and drawings in existence, it was possible to restore the whole exterior of the castle as well as the interior of tlie church to its original condition, at a cost of about 40,000Z. The castle is situated in a lake on 8 islands. On the island nearest the town are two peculiar round towers erected by Frederik II. The en- trance to the second island is orna- mented with a huge gate tower, and beyond this the castle iti^elf, situated on the third island, presents itself. It consists of 3 wings, with a closed gallery towards the middle court ornamented with rich and well-exe- cuted sculptures. The interior had already, at the time of the fire in 1859, sustained so many changes that scarcely anything remained in its original state save the banquet- ting-hall and the church. The for- mer was completely destroyed at the fire and cannot be reconstructed, but the church, though much damaged was partially saved, and has now been entirely rebuilt and redecorated. It is very well worthy of a visit ; the altar and pulpit, of ebony and mas- sive silver, as well as the font, were saved from the fire. The royal closet, or so-called *' bedekammer," ornamented with numerous pictures and carvings, the latter executed by Christian IV. himself, was en- tirely destroyed, and the fac-simile which is now being executed, will certainly always be interesting as a talented architectural study of the Rennaissance, but it will not in any sense of the word be a restoration such as is the case with the exterior of the castle and the interior of the church upon the whole. In the chapel are the coats-of-arms of the Knights of the Elephant, and of those who have or have had the Grand Cross of the Dannebrog. The castle, as it now stands, is a monu- ment not only of its builder Chris- tian IV^ but of the national feel- ing of the Danisli people at large, by whose exertions the restoration after the fire alone was rendered possible. A peculiarity connected with the castle is tlie great assem- blage of rooks from the neighbouring extensive forest, which takes place every afternoon about 6 o'clock. The roofs are black with the birds, who, after a quarter of an hour's palaver, again separate. A bridge leads from tiie middle island through the *^ mintgate " to the high road to Fredensborg. All round the castle- lake are parks and woods with walks. Here stands Badstuen, a very pretty little building erected by Frederik II., and beautifully restored by Fre- derik VII. In one of the avenues is a stone seat with the year 1628 hewn into it, which is said to have been a favourite resting-place of Christian IV. A splendid view of the castle is obtained from Jiegerhahken, a few minutes' walk from the garden. Another fine view is had from the BokkesteeUy which forms part of a gigantic dolmen south of the town. But the finest view in the neigh- bourhood, and one of the best in Denmark, is from the Shandsehalcke, a walk of three-quarters of an hour. The view comprises the whole neigh- bourhood, the lake of Esrom, and the Sound in the distance. To the north of Fredriksborg, beyond the enclosures properly be- longing to it, is a beautiful but wilder tract of forest called Grib- Denmark, nOUTE 5. — FREDRIKSViERK. 69 sliov, which stretches along the lake of Esroin, a distance of 8 miles, enclosing numerous picturesque little tarns, as well as hilly parts with views, &c. On some large farms, part of the property of the Crown surrounding Fredriksboi-g, the state has hitlierto maintained a large stud of liortecs of a peculiar race, with very showy action, beautiful head and neck, from which the royal stables were mainly recruited. By mtans of this stud the whole race of Danish horses have been very much improved in the course of time. Lately, how- ever, the breed has been spoilt by injudicious crossing, and the whole establishment will probably not long be maintained. From Fredriksborg the return to Copenhagen direct will be best ac- complished by railway, but the excur- sion may be extended to Fredriks- vscrh and Jxgerspriis, and the return may be made by steamer on the Issefjord to Eoeskilde, and train from there to Copenhagen. Fredriksvserk (Heilmann's Inn;) is about 12 miles from Fredriksborg. The road is not particularly interest- ing, as the country is rather treeless. The little town itself is situated on the outlet of the large lake Arresoe into the Issefjord, and consists mainly of the houses of artizans who work at the large cutlery and iron works which were established here at the beginning of last century, and which, after having been the pro- perty of the Slate for some time, are now in private hands. The neigh- bourhood is very beaufifully wooded, and from several points, particularly the Maglehoiy there are extensive and varied views. Archaeologists may make an interesting excursion of about 4 miles to the Kjokken-mod- ding at Solager, which were visited by the International Archajological Congress, held in Copenhagen in 1 869. The lake of Arresoe was for- merly connected with the Kattegat, but this ancient outlet has been entirely stopped, and the country far and wide desolated by drifting sands. These have now, however, been subdued by plantations, which are worthy of a visit. The drive across the so-called Asseiiw Overdrev is very characteristic ; there is a melanclioly monotony in the land- scape contracting forcibly with the smiling beauty of Fredriksvserk. Here was in olden time the strong and famous castle of AsserhOj but only a ruin is now left. Tiie prin- cipal plantation is near Tidsvilde, close to the sea, and here is also, at the very top of the cliif, St. Helen's Well,, of which the water was until quite lately supposed to be in posses- sion of marvellous healing powers, and particularly on the night of St. John the Baptist's day ; thousands often came with all manner of diseases to drink healing water from the well. The legend is that the saint had been killed by ungodly men in Sweden, and her body thrown into the sea ; but a large stone floated it to the surface and carried it across to the Danish coast. Pious persons wished to bury the saintly remains in the church, but came only to this place, where the earth voluntarily opened to receive the body. Forty years ago this whole neighbourhood was still a sandy waste, exceedingly interesting to the naturalist ; now the land is almost all taken into cultivation. The drive to Fredriksborg from Tids- vilde goes through a district exceed- ingly rich in barrows and dolmens. Frednksvaerk is, as already stated, situated on a branch of the Issefjord., and on this a steamer affords easy communication with the town of Boeskilde. Opposite Fredriksvserk the coast is densely wooded for many miles, and the steamer— after first coasting the peninsula of SalsnasSj where Solager is situated — turns to the left, and glides along the forest which belongs to the manor of J<^g6r8;prmj in order to land at 70 ROUTE 5. — FREDRICKSSUND. Denmark, Fredrihssund (Hotel Issefjord), a small borough on the east coast of the fjord, which is here very narrow and traversed by a boat-bridge. In order to visit Jsegerspriis (for which carriages may be had from Mr. Fro- lund in Fredrikssund) one must cross the bridge, and continue the walk or drive for about 3 miles, partly through wood. From the wooded hills to the left of the road there is a good view. There is a good inn near the manor-house. The estate of Jsegerspriis, which was originally called Abrahamstrup, be- longed to the Crown as early as the year 1300, but afterwards it changed hands frequently. Several of its owners were members of the royal family, the last of them was Fre- derik VII., but it was only his pri- vate property, and belonji^s now to his widow (of a morganatic marriage). The house is peculiar and old- fashioned but not particularly im- posing; it is beautifully decorated inside, and the rooms occupied by Frederik VII., which contain a great many objects used by him, his draw- ings, &c., are still preserved intact, and can be seen. The park is open to the public, and is very interesting. One of the royal owners of Jseger- spriis, the " Hereditary Prince " Fre- derik VII., adorned it with numerous sculptures, many from the designs of Wiedewelt, an excellent Danish sculptor of the 18th century. Most of tliem only represent great men in the history of Denmark, but some are portraits. There is also a splendid " jsettestue," or large sepulchre, from the stone age in the park, which is opened. North of the park is the NordshoVy an extensive wood con- taining the largest oaks in Denmark. The hing*s oah, the largest in Den- mark, is now reduced to a hollow trunk, with green brandies issuing from the inside as well as from the outside of the 3 f)iec'es which still remain. Its circumference is 42 ft., in a height 4 ft. from the ground. The storh oak has in the same height a cir- cumference of 36 ft., which in a height of 24 ft. is only diminished to 32 ft. The neighbourhood of Fredriks- sund is interesting in an archaeologi- cal point of view, being very rich in dolmens and other monuments. Five miles north of Frederikssund, halfway between this and Frederik- sva^rk, is Havelse, with celebrated kitchen middings ; and about 8 miles south, on the road to Koeskilde, is a remarkably large and fine jxttestue near Udleire. A couple of miles further the road crosses a river called V^rCy where an enormous oblong tumulus marks the burial-place of King Frode, of whom the old legends, as related by Saxo Gramm iticus, are full. Here he was buried, and on the top were the monumental stones with a runic inscription in his honour, which procured its author the crown of Denmark, it having been resolved that whosoever wrote the best poem in honour of this popular king should be his successor. Two centuries ago the stones were taken away to repair the bridge over the river, but all search for those with the inscription has been in vain. The parish uses the tumulus for a gravel pit — hap- pily a very unusual mark of disre- spect for historical and antiquarian monuments in Denmark. Archaeolo- gists would most likely prefer to drive from Frederiksvaerk to Frederiks- sund, taking Havelse by the way (about 11 miles), and to continue the journey to Roeskilde in the same manner (15 miles). By steamer Roeshilde is reached in IJ hour from Fredrikssund, and thence Copenhagen is reached in about 1 hour by rail. A visit to Roeskilde, and further excursions from there, may perfectly well be combined with the excursions we have been describing, but as most travel- lers would visit Roeskilde from Copenhagen direct, and few would make the round by Fredrikavaerk, we shall treat of Roeskilde separately. Denmark, BOUTE 5. — KOESKILDE. 71 c. Boeshilde, with the Central and Western parts of Sealand. Boeshilde (Prindsen ;) situated at a branch of the Issefjord, became in the 10th century the residence of King Harald Blaatand, father of King Sven. and grandfather of Ca- nute tlie Great, and it remained one of the royal residences till the ] 5th century. It was also one of the earliest episcopal sees in Denmark, and was— until Copenhagen became the permanent residence — the most important city in Denmark, and pro- bably the most populous, excepting perhaps the town of Sleswig. But when it ceased to be a residence, and when the Keformation liad shorn the church of its splendour, Roeskilde fell into decay, and has now. in spite of recent progress, only 5000 inhabi- tants. Of the 14 churches and 6, conventual institutions which once existed, only the Cathedral and Vor Frue Kirke are still in use. The name is popularly derived from a King Hroe, and supposed to mean " Hroe*s w^ell ; " but the king in question is a personage of doubtful histori- cal authenticity. The locality, how- ever, is exceedipgly rich in springs, of which one, the Maglekilde, in an octagonal building at the base of the cathedral hill, yields 350 gallons per minute. The Cathedral of Roeskilde is the finest and largest ecclesiastical building in Denmark, and the bishop of the diocese of Sealand (who re- sides in Copenhagen) is now the primate of the Danish Church. But originally it was not so. The arch- bishop of Denmark resided in Lund in Skaane, which province, since 1658, belongs to Sweden, and the catliedral of Lund was till then the foremost in rank of Danish cathe- drals. Besides its architectural merits, the Roeskilde cathedral deserves a visit as the restinp:-place of most of the sovereigns of Denmark. The earliest church here was of wood and built by Harald Blaatand in 975, but in 1047 the present edifice of red brick was commenced under the auspices of Bishop Vilhelm, one of the many Englishmen who at the time of King Canute came to Den- mark and brought with them the more advanced civilization of their country. The cathedral was conse- crated in 1084, and of this earliest structure, in which a peculiar kind of brick was used, considerable por- tions remain. But it suffered much by fire, particularly in 1283 and in 1443, and important alterations were the consequence. It was after the first fire that pointed arches were introduced instead of round arches, which, however, still remain in many places. The towers date also from that time; but the spires were set up by Christian IV., who also added the singularly inappropriate Eliza- bethan west door. The numerons chapels which from time to time have been erected round the church iiave also contributed to mar its original appearance. For years a thoroughly scientific and careful re- storation has been going on, and numerous minor mutilations are being remedied, ancient ornaments again brought to light, &c. The dimensions are not consider- able, but the proportions are good, and by degrees, as old pews and other obstructions are taken away, they appear to greater advantage. The church consists of a nave and 2 aisles ; these have a clerestory and are continued round the choir. The transepts do not project beyond the aisles. Being built on an emin- ence the spires are seen far and wide, and altogether it is one of the finest bui' dings of its kind in the north. The west door leads directly into the nave, which is 80 ft. high, and has 5 bays below the tiausept. The width of the nave decreases towards 72 ROUTE 5. KOESKILDE. Denmark, the choii', which latter has a very- pleasing effect when seen from the door, or better from a wooden bridtje over the door connectini^ the two side galleries On the p'ers are sus- pended seveial old paintings which are supposed to have been altar- pieces. The pulpit dates from Christian IV. ; the organ was built in 1555, and is of unusual size and excellency, it has 37 stops. There are many tombstones in the floor marking the gi-aves of famous persons, though the oldest have almost all disappeared. The font (date 1601) stands at present at the foot of the chancel steps, the old baptistry having been taken down in 1772 ; but it is intended to convert one of the chapels into a baptistry, where the font will then find a place. The fine brass railing en- closing the choir was a gift of Fred- rik IV. The choir is divided into 2 parts by a railing. In the front part, called kannikechoret, or the canon's choir, is the altar which was bou«:ht by Fredrik II. for the chapel at Fredrik sborg, but when this palace was taken down by Christian IV., in order to make room for the new Fredriksborg which he began in 1602, he gave this altar to the cathe- dral of Roeskilde. It is ornamented with very good carvings representing scenes in our Saviour's life. The work is of great artistic merit, and is supposed to belong to the beginning of the 16th century, but the artist is unknown. The carved stalls, 21 on either side, were placed there in 1420, and are of very fine workman- ship. Behind the altar is the sarco- phagus of Queen Margaret, who united the three northern kingdoms. She died in 1412, and was first buried in Soro, but next year the Bishop of Roeskilde took possession of the body by main force and carried it to the cathedral. The queen is represented in life-size on the lid of the sarcophagus, which was placed here by her nephew aad successor, Erik of Pomerania, and is orna- mented with bassi-relievi of ala- baster. These had suffered very much in course of time, but have been restored. The second part of the choir is further raised, and contained for- merly the high altar of the cathe- dral and 2 others, which remained there with other ancient church fur- niture till the close of the 17th cen- tury, when this part of the cathedral was transformed into a royal burial- chapel. At last all these relics were sold in 1806 as rubbish, — a proceed- ing which caused just indignation amongst the educated public, and gave rise to special steps being taken by the government for the preserva- tion of national antiquities. We may here observe that the cathedral had been deprived of its treasures before the Reformation, and but very few objects connected with its earlier history are now in exis- tence. Several are preserved in the Museum for Northern Antiquities in Copenhagen, as, for instance, the oldest seal of the cathedral, the skull of St. Lucius its patron saint, &c. At present the high choir, as it is called, contains the marble sarco- phagi of Fredrik IV., Christian V., and their queens; in the vaults underneath are the remains of several of the royal children. It was in 1420 that the floor was raised in this part of the choir, and many old graves were thereby disturbed ; the bones of some of their occupants were how- ever immured in the pillars, more especially those of King Harold (a.d. 985), of Queen Margaret Fredkulla (a.d. 1130), of Svend Estridson (a.u. 1076) and Bishop Vilhelm (a.d. 1076). Above the lower row of arches is a modern fresco painting repre- senting Christ and the 12 Apostles, by Constantin Hansen. In the aisle "of the choir is a collection of por- traits of famous men connected with the church, and of all the bishops of Scaland since the Reformation. From DenmarJc. EOUTE 5. — ROESKILDE : CATHEDRAL. 73 the southern transept the chapter- house is entered which was founded by a certain Belgi (a.d. 1128) who is buried here, as indicated by a monu- mental srone with inscription. Fur- ther on, adjoining the southern aisle is the sepulchral ciiapel of Fredrlk V. in ronianesque style with a cu- pola, handsome in itself, but utterly out of harmony with the church. Here are the sarcophagi of Fredrik V. and his queen, and all subsequent kings and queens of Denmark, in- cluding that of Fredrik VII. in polished oak, with a wreath of oak- leaves in solid gold ; that of Fredrik V. is in marble, by WiedeweU. Then follows the chapel of the three holy kings, with the monuments of Chris- tian III. and Fredrik II. The chapel itself is very fine, a centre column supporting a noble vaulted ceiling, and the walls being decorated with very interesting fresco-paintings con- temporary with the first erection of the chapel, now happily rescued from under innumerable layers of church- warden's whitewash. They have re- ference partly to the 3 holy kings, partly to the destination of the cliapel to serve as a royal burial- place. The monument of Christian III., by Corn. Floris of Antwerp, is of the highest artistic merit. In the crypt underneath lies Christian I., who built the chapel in 1459-1464 as a burial-chapel for his family and richly endowed it. When his coffin was opened some time ago the body was measured, and it was found that altliough he had not been of the pro- digious height ascribed to him, he still stood 6 Danish It. in his shoes. The upper floor of this chapel forms a hall where the diocesan convocation meets. Near the west door are seve- ral minor chapels, and also along the western portion of the north aisle, amongst which the chapels of St. Bri- gitta and St. Laurentius contain in- teresting and very old frescoes. We come now to the largest of all the chapels, that of Christian IV., con- IDenmark.'] taining the sarcophagus of this king richly ornamented with silver, as well as those of his queen, Anna Catha- rina; Fredrik III. and his queen, Sophia Amalia. The walls are deco- rated with frescoes by modern Danish artists — Eddelien, Marstrand, Milker, and Kornerup. One of tliese re- presents the king in the naval battle at Femern, 1644, where he was wounded, and another represents him as a young man presiding as a judge in a celebrated cause, where he dis- covered a fraud by examining the paper on which a certain document was written, and finding that the manufacturer's mark indicated a later year than the pretended date of the document. Others are portraits of famous men of his time. In the north aisle is also the tombstone of the great Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus (a.d. 1207). On the north side of the chancel is the porch of Oluf Mortensen built in the 15th century, with a very richly or- namented front and the image of Pope Lucius, the patron saint of the church, painted on copper. In the south tower is the clocks with figures that strike the hours ; and in the noithern tower is the largest of the bells, which bears the date of 1611, and has a circum- ference of more than 18 ft. The cathedral is shown by the verger, who lives at the corner of Bondethinget, a small lane opening into the south corner of the open space in front of the west door. The fee is 1 dollar for 1 to 3 persons ; 2 dollars for 4 to 10 persons. From the gallery of the choir of the cathedral there is a passage over an archway, ascribed to and named after Bishop Ahsalon (1201), which formerly led to the episcopal palace; this latter, however, no longer exists, and instead of it is a so-called Royal palace— a very unpretending edifice, serving various public purposes. Vor Frue Kirke offers nothing of special interest; it was formerly in 74 KOUTE 5. — EOESKILDE. Denmark, the town, but stands now outside it, and the parish is a country parish ; several of the lanes near by have still the name of streets. The church of St. lbs, now used as a warehouse, erected in the 12tli century, has very interesting and very old frescos. The tower of St. Laurentii church forms now part of the town-hall, and is a good specimen of the red-brick Gothic. Close outside Eoeskilde is a very large lunatic asylum belonging to the city of Copenhagen, called Bid- strup, which is worthy of the atten- tion of persons takiuii: interest in such institutions. A little farther on is a small pretty wood Boserup (car- riage 2 dollars), near which the scanty ruins of JSebhe castle, and a kitc'hen-midding. Excursions from Eoeskilde. We have already observed that Fredriks- sund, Jsegerspris, and Fredriksvserk may quite easily be visited from Eoeskilde. Lovers of art may pay a visit to the church of Skihhj (the first place where the steamer to Fredriks- veerk stops) containing beautiful specimens of 12th-century frescoes; similar ones exist in many old Dan- ish churches. Another shorter excursion is to Lethrdborg (carriage 3 to 4 dollars), the seat of Count Holstein-Lethra- borg. with a beautiful park and in- teresting stone monuments of great antiquity. The valley of Hertha (Herthadal) was formerly, but erro- neously, thought to have been the centre of a peculiar worship of the goddess of Hertha. The ancient Leire^ the residence of the Danish kings, or at least the kings of Sea- land in the time of the Sagas, is close by, but there is nothing now to be seen. The village of 6m may easily be included in the excursion either going or coming, and here a very fine Jiettestue may be seen. The key to be had from the farmer on whose ground it is. Through a passage 22 ft. long, formed by enormous stone slabs, one enters the sepulchral chamber, 22 ft. long, C)^-~ 6 ft. high and 8ft. wide. When it was opened in 1832 it was found to contain a number of skeletons and urns. Candles or magnesium wire should be brought. A railway has been projected and will probably be executed ere very long from Eueskilde via Eolhoeh to Kallundborg on the Great Belt, from which place formerly the mail pac- kets for Jutland started. Now they start from Korsor, but as soon as the railway is opened to Kallundborg the old route will doubtless be re- opened. Holbrxh (Postgaarden) 18 m. frOm Eoeskilde and also situated on a branch of the Isefjord, offers in itself nothing of interest; but Kal- lundborg (Thrane's Hotel) 30 m. from Holbsek, has a most remarkable old church dedicated to Our Lady ; it was built in 1170 in the shape of a Greek cross, with an octagonal tower at the end of each arm, and a fifth higher than the others, over the middle of the cross supported by strong piers inside. The latter fell down in 1827, and the church was upon the whole in a bad condition ; but it has been thoroiighly repaired, and it is intended to renew the central tower. An interesting excursion may be made to the peninsula of Refsnxs with numerous dolmens. About midway between Holbsek and Kallundborg, at a village called Faurbo, the high road is intersected by another running north and south, and the future railway will doubtless have a station here. From this point a very interesting excursion may be made in either direction. About 5 m. of Faurbo is the ancient castle of Draxholm, the seat of Baron Adler, formerly a Eoyal possession. Here Bothwell^ first the lover, afterwards the husband of Mary Queen of Scots, spent his last years, in prison, and was buried in the neighbouring DenmarJc. ROUTE 5. SORO. 75 church of Faareveile. About 2 m. north of Dragsholm, on a narrow isthmus, is Veirlwi, with a truly mag- nificent view, the finest in Denmark, extending as far as 40 m. over a beautifully varied landscape of sea and land, corn-fields and woods. About 5 m. south of Faurbo is Skar- ridso, a lake surrounded by lovely woods, one of the prettiest landscapes in Sealand. From here it is only 18 m. to Soro. Finally, a visit to Roeskilde may be extended to Bingsted and Soro, both on the Copenhagen-Korsor line. Bingsted (Postgaarden ; Restaurant at the station) is now but a small town in a rather bare neighbourhood, but in the Middle Ages it was an important place, and the church dedi- cated to Our Lady was the burial- place of the Danish kings of the Val- demarian period, and their succes- sors, 1182-1375. The graves were opened in 1855 in the presence of Fredrik VII., but most of them had been disturbed before. The monu- ments are likewise destroyed, only the brass slab covering the grave of Erik Menved (1319) and his queen remains. The church suffered much by a fire in 1806, and lost its spire, but is now being thoroughly re- stored ; it is contemporary with the cathedral of Roeskilde, having been consecrated in 1081, but has pre- served its original character better. It is one of the largest brick churches in Denmark with round arches. Soro (Hotel Soro) is a compara- tively modern little borough, owing its origin to a monastery of the Cis- tercians, which was founded in 1161, but secularised at the time of the Reformation and transformed into a public school. The great Danish writer Ludvig HoTberg, who died childless (1754) left his large pro- perty to this institution, which is one of the richest in Denmark, having an income of about £10,000 a year. The old buildings of the school were unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1813, whereby its exceedingly valu- able library was lost ; and a new one was built, which is situated in a fine park close to the edge of a lake. It is seen to great advantage from the railway on coming from Korsor. But the most interesting building here is the old church of the monas- tery, which serves as pariah church, of the little town. It is 220 ft. long, 68 wide, and 52 high ; the nave has pointed arches, but the original round arches are preserved in the aisles and the chancel, which is square. Numerous celebrated persons have been buried here, amongst whom Bishop Absolon (1201). His grave was opened in 1827 when the skele- ton was found with a crozier at the side, holding a silver chalice in the folded hands. The oldest tomb- stone is, however, that of Bishop Krak (1300). Solberg's sarcophagus in marble, by Wiedewelty stands in one of the vaults. From Soro pretty drives may be made in every direction ; an interest- ing excursion is to Bjernede, a village 5 m. distant (carriage 1| dollar), with a most remarkable round church, built, according to the inscription which is still preserved, by Ebbe Skjalmson, of an illustrious noble family, who died in 1150. The in- terior diameter is only 34 ft., and of this small space a considerable part is taken up by 4 columns with bases of granite of 12 ft. circum- ference each^and 24 ft. high, support- ing the roof. A porch and a chan- cel were added afterwards, and the roof was probably originally conical ; but enough remains of the old struc- ture to render this one of the most interesting relics of ancient Christian architecture in Denmark. Besides this there are only 6 round churches in Denmark, of which 4 are at Born- holm. There is an old font of granite, and a remarkable reliquary. On the return journey, Pedershorg church, with a carved altar-piece date about 1500, may be visited. E 2 76 ROUTE 5. — MOEN. Denmarh d. MdeUj Falster, Lolland, and the South of Sealand. In describing the route to Copen- hagen via Liibeck we mentioned the cliffs of Moen, and this little island is in reality one of tlie loveliest spots in Denmark. Steamers for the southern islands touching at Koster, where the ferry is from Moen to Sea- land, start several times a week from Copenhagen early in the morning. In Koster a carriage may be pro- cured, or better ordered beforehand, for the whole distance, to Liselund (near the klint or cliff), or one may go by the open omnibus (2 marks) which meets the steamer to Stege, the principal place on the island, and take a carriage thence. Some of the steamers go direct to Stege (Baden's Hotel, carriages to the klint). This is a very old town, but only an old gateway now remains from its earlier days. A couple of miles out of Stege the road to the klint passes through a village called Kjellhymagle with a remarkable old altar. Farther on the road crosses a marshy track, which reaches right across the island from north to south, and which originally was an inlet from the sea, separating the eastern part of the island Hoie Moen from the rest. The village of Borre with its handsome church was then a thriving seaport. The hills which form the cliff now present themselves. After a drive of about 9 m. from Stege one arrives at Liselund, a large farmhouse where travellers are accommodated, and from which the cliff may be visited commodiously on foot. The hills of Hoie Moen consist of chalk with layers of flint, forming towards the sea an abrupt cliff, often pre- senting wild and grotesque forms. The superior beauty of this cliff over so many others of the same formation consists in its rich vegetation, the top being mostly covered by magnificent beechwbods. In the morning early it is best seen from the sea, in the after- noon the sea presents a magnificent deep blue, which contrasts strongly with white cliffs and the foliage of the forest. The cliff is private pro- perty, but it is open to the public, and the owners have done all to render it accessible by walks, rail- ings, seats, &c. Special guide-books may be had on the spot. Geologists will find a rich harvest of fossils. The principal points are the Taler^ the Dronningestol (fine view), and the Maglevandsfaldety a cleft through which lies an easy descent to the sea-shore ; here is also a refreshment pavilion. Farther inland excellent views may be had from two hills, the highest on the island, namely Kongs- hjerget and Aborrehjerget. The forest contains several tarns of unusual depth. The whole district of Hoie Moen covers but a small area, a few square miles, but it is one of the most beautiful spots in the N. The western part of Moen is rich in dolmens and other antiquarian remains, but offers too little of in- terest to tempt the ordinary traveller, and the same may be said of the neighbouring islands of Falster and LoUand, which are accessible by the same steamers which afford commu- nication between Copenhagen and Moen. Lolland is accounted the most fertile and valuable part of Denmark, and is scattered over with the seats of the nobility, of which some are very handsome. The principal town in Lolland is Mariho (steamer to Band- holm, thence train to the Hotel) with a very fine church, originally part of a famous convent and monastery ac- cording to the order of the Birgit- tines. The cloisters, the Lady Chapel, and many other relics of the time before the Reformation, are of in- terest. In the neighbouring lake is *'■ Worsaaes Oe," where a great so- called coast-find was made in 1858. The seats of Soholt, Evigestlofte, Knuthenhorg, with fine buildings and parks, are close to Maribo. De: enmarle EOtTK 5. — VbiiblNOfioHCi, '!7 A drive of 6 miles towards the east leads to Saxkjohing, near which is the manor of Bardenhem, the pro- perty of Count Reventlow Harden- berg, one of the finest in Denmark. A drive of the same extent from Maribo towards the south brings one to the small town of Rodby, on the south coast, close to which is the manor of Christianssasde, with some of the finest oak forests in Denmark, in wliich are trees of consideiable size. The return from Moen to Copen- hagen may be effected through the southern part of Sealand, namely from Koster ( see above) to Kallehave, on the coast of Sealand by ferry, and thence by carriage (to be had in the ferry-house) either direct to Prsesto and thence to Kjoge, or to Vording- horg, which will be the southern terminus of the South Sealand Rail- way. At present the high road from Kallehave via Prsesto and Kjoge to Taastrup station on the railway from Roeskilde to Copenhagen affords the shortest route ; but it is a very fatiguing day's journey, involving as it does more than 50 m. drive. Praisto is a small town of no interest, but close outside is the manor of Nysl), the seat of Baron Stampe, with beautiful gardens. Thorvaldsen used to spend his last summers here, and the apartments wliich he occupied, as well as Ids atelier, are still pre- served unaltered ; they are shown to travellers. Kjoge^ see below. Travellers coming from Lolland would cross the Sound, Guldhorg- sund which divides this island from Falster, either at Guldhorg or at Nykjohing, and proceed to Gaabense, from which a steamer keeps up a regular communication with Vor- dingborg. Vordinghorg (Redlefsens Hotel ; Hotel Valdemar) is a very old town which flourished already in the 12 th century. It was on a great Danehof or national assembly held here that King Valdemar II., in 1241, pub- lished the Jutland law, the oldest Danish statute law. King Valdemar I. built a fortified castle here, and Danish kings often resided here before Copenhagen was made a per- manent residence. Of the old castle only a part of the walls, and a soli- tary tower called the goosetower be- cause a golden goose did duty as weathercock, remain now. The key can be liad in the town next door to the chemist's shop, on payment of 1 mark to the poor-box. The view is exceedingly pretty. The slopes round the ruin abound in sweetbriars, here called roses of King Valdemar. The ordinary carriage-road from Vordinglx)rg to Copenhagen through Kjoge offers nothing worthy of special notice, but any one who may like to explore the south-east of Sealand may do so most conveniently by stop- ing a couple of days at Ronnede, an old and very good inn about 18 m. from Vordingborg, that is about half- way between that place and Kjoge^ or at the new inn at Haslev station on the South Sealand Railway. From here the following points may easily be visited, being all within a few miles distance : Bregentved the seat of Count Moltke, with a beau- tiful park (open to the public) and the best hothouses in Denmark; Gissel/eldy built in 1547, formerly the seat of the families of Oxe, Lykke, and others, now a convent for noble ladies, and fine gardens; Overdrtos- haJiken the highest point in Sealand, with a magnificent panorama from the top. Nijso (see above) near Prsesto may also be visited from Ronnede though rather out of the way. From Ronnede or Haslev a very good ex- cursion, occupying 2 days, may be made through Stevnsherred. A glance on the map will show that a line irom Prsesto to Kjoge forms the basis of a peninsula, which is known as Stemisherred, and is reckoned the most fertile and richest part of Sea- land. The limestone rock which underlies the whole of Denmark here 78 HOtTTE 6. — STORE HEDDlNGE. Denmark, comes to light in two places, partly in a cliff on tlie eastern shore called Stevns Klintj which we mentioned above in describing the route to Copenhagen via Liibek, and partly in the hill of Faxo, an ancient coral reef full of remarkable fossils. This is only 3 m. distant from Konnede, about 7 m. from Haslev. The chalk is very extensively quarried, and a short line of railway brings it to a little harbour about 3 m. distant, where a new town, Faxe Strand, is rapidly rising into existence. About 5 m. further to the east is the so-called convent of Vemmetofte, an ancient Gothic mansion with an extensive estate adjoining, now forming an institution for unmarried ladies of the nobility of the same kind as Gisselfeld. The park is open to the public. From Vemmetofte an additional 10 m. brings us to Store Heddinge (.o:ood inn) with a very remarkable old church, originally octagonal, now a good deal altered. Geologists will not fail to visit the above-mentioned cliff, Stevns KUnt which is only a couple of miles distant, and where the succession of the stratum com- posing the cretaceous formation in Denmark, is easily and well observed. From Store Heddinge the journey should be continued to Kjoge, by way of Gjorslev, one of the oldest noble mansions now existing in Denmark, built about 1400, of very peculiar exterior, and with many very in- teresting details. The vaulted halls have a height of about 24 ft., and the entrance-hall, with a single cen- tral pillar, is very striking. The library contains amongst other trea- sures a very extensive collection of maps. The garden, which is open to the public, is very extensive (80 acres). Nearer Kjoge, about 5 m. to the south of that town, is Vallo Castle, now like Gisselfeld and Vemmetofte, an institution for unmarried daugh- ters of the nobility, but originally an ancient manor. The principal part of the building was built in 1581 by Mette Kosenkrands, and is amongst the finest in Denmark. The institu- tion is very rich, and its estates com- prise thousands of acres. The inte- rior can be seen on application to the gatekeeper, or in the office of the estate near the inn. The garden and park are always open to visitors. The South Sealand Railway takes a more westerly course than the road, so as to come sufficiently near to the town of Nestved, 16 m. from Vordingborg (Hotel Vinhuset). The 2 churches contain some old carving, and near St. Morten's Church is a very interesting old timber house with carved figures, &c., a kind of which there are now but very few specimens in Denmark. The old town-holly now used for other pur- poses, is not without interest. About 1 m. distant is Herlufsholm, a public school, founded by Herluf Trolle in 1565, and the only one in Denmark at all comparable to the old public schools of England. It was origi- nally a monastery established in this place in 1261 ; at the time of the Reformation it was confiscated by the Crown but afterwards ceded to Herluf Trolle in exchange for Hille- rodsholm, where Fredrikshorg was afterwards built. Herluf Trolle was childless, and fell as an admiral of the fleet in a battle against the Swedes, but had previously destined the whole property to the foundation of a new school, and his widow Birgitte Gjo faithfully carried his intentions out. The buildings, church, &c., are shown by the ser- vants. The church has lofty pointed arches, there is a good carved pul- pit and altar. The sarcophagi of Herluf Trolle and his wife, in black marble with alabaster ornaments are very handsome, and close to them is a beautiful altar with their figures in alabaster. About 5 m. south of Nestved is the castle of Gauno, seat of Baron Reedtz Tholt, a very extensive old building, Denmarh. ROUTE 6. — BORNHOLM. 79 originally a convent. The castle contains a very large collection of pictures, of which the historical por- traits form the most interesting part. The castle of Holsteinhorg and the manors of Bamses and Borrehy, with beautiful parks, and particularly the latter with very interesting buildings may also be conveniently visited from Nestved, as they are close to the high road between Nestved and Skjelshjor — a small town on the S.W. coast of Sealand, which may serve as a resting point. From Skjelskjor to Slagelse on the West Sealand Kail- way is only 10 m. Another pretty drive of about 16 m. brings the traveller from Nestved to Soro on the West Sealand Rail- way (see p. 75), past Herlufsholm and Nseshyholm, an old manor-house in a very tine situation surrounded by woods and lakes. But the shortest and quickest way of returning to Copenhagen will be by the new railway to Kjoge, and thence by Roeskilde to Copenhagen. The station Haslev on the new line was mentioned above as a good centre for excursions in the east of Sealand. Kjoge is an old but insignificant place; the church dates from 1326. In the 17th century a manufacture of tapestry was established here, and several of the productions of this establishment are still in existence, but it soon languished and ceased altogether. The Baltic h< re forms a large and deep bay : Kjogebugt, where two famous naval battles have been fought; in one, 1st of July, 1477, Admiral Niels Juel defeated the Swedish fleet ; the other, which took place on the 4th of October, 1710, is chiefly remembered on ac- count of the heroism of Iver Hvit/elt, commander of the Danish line of battle-ship Dannehrog ; the ship caught fire, but for fear of setting fire to other Danish ships or causing confusion in the fleet, the commander refused to seek assistance, and pre- ferred to run the risk of being blown up. This eventually took place, and he and his crew, about 700 men, perished. Near Kjoge a skirmish took place in 1807 between an English corps d'armee and the militia of the neighbouring part of Sealand, in which the latter was dispersed. The country between Kjoge, Roes- kilde, and Copenhagen is very flat and uninteresting, and forms a strong contrast to the wooded and varied landscapes of the South of Sealand. ROUTE 6. BORNHOLM. Although this little island scarcely ofiers enough to attract the ordinary traveller, it possesses so many re- markable relics of bygone times, that a visit richly repays those who take an interest in antiquities ; and as there is a steamer twice a week, a few days may easily be devoted to it. The geological nature of the island is entirely diflerent from the rest of Denmark, the original rock is here laid bare in the whole of the northern and eastern part, and although the height over the sea is only a few hundred feet, yet the forms of the rocks are exceedingly picturesque. The southern and western part ex- hibit on a very confined space a perfect map of succeeding silurian, 80 ROUTE 6. — BOENHOLM — RONNE — AAKIRKEBY. Denmarlc, triassic, Jurassic formations down to the chalk. (M. Jespersen of Ronne has published a small geological guide to Bornholm in Danish.) In- stead of smilino: lakes surrounded by extensive woods, which form the beauty of other parts of Denmark, we have here wild rocky coa:5ts washed by the sea, &c. Numerous Runic stones, monuments consisting of large boulders, and ancient camps bear witness to its pre-historic popu- lation, whilst the remarkable circu- lar churches, which at the same time have served as fortified towers, carry us back to the planting of Christianity here in the 11th century, and the mighty ruins of Hammershuus testify of the power of the cliurch, in wliose hands the island was for a long time before the Reformation. The steamer leaves Copenhagen in the morning at 7, and arrives at Bonne (Dams Hotel) at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, or if it touches at the port of Ystad in Skaane, 2 hrs. later. Bonne is the principal town of the island, but offers nothing of interest itself. The principal excursion is to Almindingen, a wood which occupies the highest part of the island, 8 m. from Ronne. About a mile from Ronne to tlie 1. is a seam of Kaolin earth, from which the china manufactories in Copenhagen get their supply. 3 m. from Ronne is a cross road leading to Nykirke, about 2 m. distant, 1. This is one of the 4 circular churches in Bornholm, and probably the oldest. It consists of three parts, the ro- tunda, the chancel with an apse, and the porch, which is of much later date. The former consists of an annular space covered by a barrel vault, supported by a very thick central pier and the circular outer wall. In this wall is a staircase leading to the loft above, and as it is continued higher up there has probably been a third story with a timber floor. An inscription on an old door fixes the date of this church at 1287, but it is supposed to be older. Returning to the road from Ronne to Almindingen, and con- tinuing the latter straight on into the wood, the best plan is to turn to the rt. in order to reach the top of Bytter- knasgteny the highest point on the / island, on which a 40 ft.-high square tower of granite has been erected in commemoration of King Frederik VII.'s visit here. From the platform the entire island is surveyed, forming a magnificent panorama. After hav- ing enjoyed this, one should return a little way by the same road in order to take a path to the rt. leading to the interesting ruins of Lillehorgf which is supposed to have been destroyed about the middle of the 13th century. The island belonged partly to the Crown partly to the Archbishop of Lund, and for a long time the possession of the island was contested by force of arms ; Lilleborg is supposed to have been a sort of detached fort belonging to Gammel- horg, which is | m. distant and is of far greater extent, the dimensions of the latter being 840 ft. by 140. This is supposed to have been the Royal stronghold, which was taken and destroyed by the brothers of Bishop Erlandsen in 1260. There are no remains of buildings, but considera- ble fragments of the walls. Almin- dingen is intersected in all directions by pretty walks, for instance to the Bokkesteen, a huge rocking- stone of 200 tons weight, poised on a point so that it can easily be made to oscillate ; a whole day may be spent here very pleasantly, but if time is short it is advisable to start early from Ronne for Almindingen without stopping to ses Nykirke, and one may then on the same day in the afternoon visit AakirkeJnj, which is only 3 m. from Rytterknaegten, and return in the evening to Ronne, 9 m. Aaliirkehy is remarkable by its ancient and very peculiar church, which about the year 1150 was brought into its present shape. The nave was divided into two by a row l)enmark. ROUTE 6. — BOENHOLM HAMMEIioUUUS. 81 of pillars and arches, supporting another arcade, which again supports a free wall reacliing to the roof. TJiere is a small baptistry with an exceedingly remarkable /owi of gran- ite, with bassi-relievi representing scenes from the life of Our Lord, and with explanatory inscriptions in Runes and in the ancient Scandina- vian dialect. There is a large square tower in 4 stories, like some of the very earliest towers in England, and undoubtedly calculated for defence. The whole is built of roughly cut blocks of black marble— of course whitewashed. In the porch are two Kunic stones. The road from Aakirkeby to Eonne offers nothing of interest, but about half-way, rt. is Nylarsker, a circular church like NyMrke but larger, and with 3 stories, of which the second has a vaulted roof like the church itself, and an altar niche. The thii-d story has only a wooden roof, but double outer walls with openings, evidently to facilitate a defence. The material is granite. A second excursion which occupies 2 or 3 days, includes all the principal objects of interest in the island, namely to Hammershuus and back by way of Gudhjem and Oster Larsker. Two days more would complete the round of the island, and geologists or achssologists would pro- bably find themselves tempted to longer stay at more than one point. The road from llonne to Hammers- huus runs in a northerly direction inside a pine wood, which has been planted in order to keep down drift- ing sands, and leaves to the left the coal-mines of Sorthat and Hasle, which are of importance for the island itself, though the coals (of the Jurassic formation) are of inferior value to the English as fuel. About 5| m. N. of Eonne there is to the 1. near a bridge a very fine and large Runic stone. The little town of Hash, 7 m. from Eonne, oflers nothing re- markable except a fine carved and gilt altar from the loth century in the church. 2 m. farther is Ruilis kirke, an old church of granite on a high hill, the first point on Bornholm that is seen on approaching it from the W. From here 2 roads may be followed either the ordinary carriage- road by Olsker to AUinge and thence to Hammershuus, and a nearer but ratlier bad road across tl;e fields and a common called Slotslijngen, We pre- fer the latter, and about a mile from Euthsker (the local abbreviation for Euthskirke) where the road divides, we take that of the left hand towards the sea in order to inspect a very picturesque spot called Jons KapeU consisting of perpendicular rocks, natural caves, huge blocks thrown down in wild disorder, over which the waves of the sea are breaking. The name is derived from a legend, to the effect that a certain missionary of the name of Jon has preached there to the heathen natives from a natural prominence of the rock called Jons imlpit; wild roses, alder, and ivy grow luxuriantly in the openings of the rocks. One must return by the same way in order to resume the journey to Hammershuus inside the Eincfehahker, a fell about a mile long, falling down precipitously to the sea. The ruins soon become visible to the left, near the northern pro- montory of the island " Hammeren," where a lighthouse is erected. The ruins of Hammershuus, 14 or 15 m. from Eonne, are not only the finest in Denmark but are quite equal in extent and beauty to many of the finest mediaeval remains in other countries. The castle was built on an isolated rock, in the middle of the 13th century, by Arch- bishop Erlandsen of Lund, and in the subsequent feuds between him and hid successors and the Danish kings it was frequently taken and retaken by both parties, but remained at last in the hands of the Bishops for a couple of centuries, till the beginning of the 16th century when 82 tlOUl?E 6. — GUDHJEM — NEXO. Jenmark King Christian II. once more took possession of it ; in a subsequent war between Denmark and the Han- seatic league, tlie forces of the latter conquered the castle and the island in 1522 and retained it for 54 years. In 1658 Bornholm was ceded to Sweden with the other Danish pro- vinces E. of the Sound, but the in- habitants killed the Swedish garrison and returned to their old allegiance. Since then Hammershuus has been left to decay, and it was only in 1822 that a Royal decree was issued order- ing the preservation of the Ruins. The principal relic of these is a huge square tower 6 stories high, a lower circular tower, the so-called " Mandeltaarn," and the walls of the church, &c. The outer walls of the fortress have been 30 ft. high and are built of granite. The view over the sea is very beautiful, and at the foot of the rocks there are 2 fine caves of which one, "denvaade Ovn,'* is only accessible in boats. Through a little place called Sandvig the road leads to Allinge where quarters can be had at Hotel Hammershuus. The town has no- thing to detain travellers, and next morning the journey may be resumed southwards with a view of exploring Mo Sogn^ the prettiest district on the island. About 2 J m. S. of Allinge is Ohhirke, the third of the circular churches, similar to that of Ny Larsker above described. 2 m. further on, near a farm called Dyn- dalegaard, a foot-path leads to " Amt- mandsstenen " with a fine view, and through the valley of Dyndal to the shore, and along this to Selligdommen, a very picturesque spot, with wild rocks, caves, &c. In fine weather the carriage might be sent on to Dyndalegaard, and the distance from Allinge to Helligdommen be per- formed in a boat, from which the coast presents itself very well. Gudhjem, 11^ m. by road from Allinge, is a small fishing-village, in appearance not unlike one of the smaller Norwegian towns, from which a boat may be hired for an excursion to Christianso, a little group of rocks about 14 m. off, formerly fortified, but now only serving the purpose of a harbour of refuge. Starting early from Allinge one may dine at the very modest inn of Gudhjem, and in the afternoon return to Ronne, if time does not permit a longer stay. In any case, whether returning to Ronne or continuing the circuit of the island, the road passes by Osterlars kirke, the largest and finest circular church of Bornholm. Here the cen- tral part of the edifice is not formed by a round pier but by a circular arcade of 6 semicircular arches rest- ing on short massive pillars, and supporting an inner cupola ; i he second story is like the lower story, only square openings replace the 6 arches in the middle. The third story has double walls like those in Olbker and Ny Larsker, but in this latter and in Osterlarsker they are not supposed to be original; it is thought that the circular roof rested on the vault of the second story, and that the central cylinder, to which here only a door leads, showed it- self as a sort of central spire. The chancel has rounded side walls and an apse. If the tour is extended to Svaneke (Carlsen's Hotel) on the E. coast of the island 11 m. from Gudhjem, a visit should be paid to BandkJdi^e- skaaret, a wild jocky spot on the coast just E. of Oster Larsker, and in the neighbourhood of Svaneke, Lou- iselund, and Frasndemark, both with numerous fine memorial stones with- out inscriptions. 5^ m. S. of Svaneke is Nexd, aild on the road thither a visit sliould be paid to Paradisbakkeme, with an old fortress called Gamlehorg, like the one in Almindingen but much older. Remains of the walls are extant, but there is no vestige of cement or lime having been used in their construc- tion. Another similar place is found i)enmarh tlOTJTE 7. — FYEN. 83 at Bispehjergety an isolated hill 5 m. from Nexo and rather out of the way. From Nexo to Eonne are 18 m. by- way of Aakirkehy, which we have mentioned above. ROUTE 7. FYEN. Fijen (on German maps erroneously named Funen), which is separated from Sealand by the Great Belt and from Slesvvig by the Little Belt, is one of the most fertile and best cul- tivated parts of Denmark, but it agrees in its natural properties and general aspect so nearly with Sea- land, that the ordinary traveller who has seen the finest districts of that island, would scarcely find it worth while to spend time on excursions in Fyen. Odense, the capital of the island, is now the second town in Den- mark, and has been described in Rte. 3a, as well as Nijborg and the line from this place through Odense to Strib and Middelfart, and we shall therefore here confine ourselves to a very few and short indications. The finest part of Fyen is the southern, and a round from Nyborg to Svend- borg, thence through Faaborg to Assens, and thence to Aarup station on the railway between Middelfart and Odense, ofiers a succession of pretty landscapes as attractive as any in Denmark. The rte. should bo from Nyborg to Svendborg (^21 m.) through Orbsek, close to the manor of Orbsekslund, with a fine house erected in 1593. Kongshol Hammer- vxrk, prettily situated in a deep valley, where a little river affords the necessary water-power for the mills; Glorup, the seat of Count Moltke-Glorup, with a beautiful gar- den covering 120 acres, fine hot- houses, &c. ; Messelagergaard, built in 1538 (near this the largest boul- ders in Denmark, 40 ft. high above ground, 166 ft. in circumference), past Broholm, with 3 prettv spires, through Skaarup to Svendborg. Svendborg Vandall's Hotel ; Ploug's Hotel), a rising town witli 6600 in- hab., has been mentioned already in Rte. 3a, together with the adjoin- ing island of Taasinge. The views from the high ground behind the little town are very charming, as well as the aspect from the sea, but the town itself offers nothing re- markable. Both the churches are very old, probably of the 12th cen- tury, but offer no special attractions. From Svendborg Taasinge should be visited, specially for the sake of the view from the church tower at Brei ninge in the centre of the island, which is reputed as one of the finest in Denmark The immediate neigh- bourhood is rich in lovely walks and views. The road from Svendborg to Faaborg 16 m. leads past Hvldkilde and Holsteenhuus, with fine parks open to visitors; just beyond the latter a road turns to the right lead- ing to Kongshoi, a hill with a beau*' tiful view. Faaborg (Rasmusen's Hotel) on the Little Belt has a church built in the 15th century, with 20 finely-cari;ec2 stalls in the choir, a beautifully carved altar, of 1511, &c. The altar now used has a fine picture by Marstrand, " Christ at Emaus." 3 m. from Faaborg is the manor-house of Hvedholm, built 1590, and in the village of Home close by, an exceedingly interesting church, originally circular, now en- larged by the addition of a chancel 84 ROUTE 8.— JtrrLAND— JtlLLINGE. Denmarh and a Gothic tower. Opposite Faaborg is Lyo, where Valdernar II. was captured and carried away by Count Henrik cf Schwerin in 1223. From Faaborg one may reach Odense eitlier by way of Quernchup and Bivge, past tlie interesting old seats of Bralietrollehorg and Egeslcov (about 26 m.), or by the direct postal road (22 m.), which, however, is very uninte- resting ; or by wav of Assens on the Little Belt (Hotel Phonix) andAarup or Breed station on the line between Mid.lelfart and Odense (34 m. besides the rail way journey). There is a fine view from the cemetery at Assens, and excursions may be made to the woods of Fredr/ksgave and the church of Dreslette with a fine view. The latter points may be visited on the journey from Faaborg to Assens, and next day an excursion may be made to Visseribjerg with a very fine view, about 3 m. N. of Breed station, to which one must then return. ROUTE 8. Jutland, or North Jutland as it is generally called in contradistinction from Sleswig the ancient Southjut- land. is the largest of the present provinces of the Danish kingdom, and of more varied nature than any other. Almost all the towns are situated close to the sea, or at any rate inlets from tlie sea, and as those on the E. coast are mostly in direct communication with Copenhagen or Kprsor by steamer, it would be impossible to point out any rte. par excellence from Copenhagen to Jut- land. We shall therefore simply give an account of the most re- markable objects and places, following the E. coast from S. to N., returning by the W. coast — a proceeding which is so much the more to be recom- mended, as the interior almost en- tirely consists of extensive, tliinly populated heaths, offering no induce- ment to the traveller. Tlie 2 southernmost towns in Jut- land, Kolding and Fredericia, have already been sufficiently noticed in Eoute 3a. From Fredericia we follow the Eastjutland Railway, and the first town is Veile, at the head of Veile- fjord. The last part of the line before reaching Veile runs parallel with the fjord, and the view across it to the manor of Tirshsek and the woods on the N. coast is very pretty. Veile itself (Brandt's Hotel ; Hotel Royal) is a rising town of 6000 Inhab. at the outlet of a little river, and it is chiefly noted on account of its charming neighbourhood. In every direction there are beautiful walks, one needs only go outside the N. end of the town and just follow any road or path. A beautiful walk of 4 or 5 m. is along the northern shore to Tlrsbxh, with a beautiful park and very interesting old build- ings; from the hills, under which the path runs, fine views to the fjord and as far as Fyen. Boats can always be had in the harbour for a sail or ex- cursion to Tirshsek. A drive must be recommended through Greisdalj a beautifully- wooded valley, which may ea.sily be visited on foot from Veile, by Greis- mills, and Leerhsek to Jellinge^ a village where the residence of King Gorm den Gamle^ who united Den- mark into one kingdom, lay, , and where he and his queen Tliyra t>enmarL route 8. — Horseks — skakderborg. gg Banahod were buried. Two mighty barrows, almost overtopping the little church, were thrown up in memory of them, and in one of them lie the last Danish kirjg and queen buried according to the rites of paganism, about the year 940. The burial chamber is of heavy oak timber and is rendered accessible. The key is kept in a neighbouring house. The few objects found here when the bar- row was opened 1861 are preserved in the Museum of Antiquities in Co- penhagen. In the churchyard are two Kunic stones, the smaller one erected by King Gorm in memoiy of Queen Thyra ; the larger one erected by King Harald Blaatand in memory of his parents. This latter is very handsome, with figures in basso- relievo ; on the one side a crucified figure, on the other a dragon, round which a serpent coils itself. From Jellinge the road turns to the S. past Faarup Lake, through a country abounding in barrows to Engelholmy a handsome old manor- house built in 1592 by Kund Brahe, brother of the famous astronomer Tycho Brahe. Through a fine little beech-wood adjoining the garden a road leads to Engelslwlms Clolhmill in a deep valley, where it is not observed till one reaches the edge of the plateau. The mill is worked by a small river which rises in the lake of Engelsholm, and after a very rapid course joins the Veileaa. On the other side are seen the commencement of Band- holhede, one of the most desolate tracts of the Jutland heath, and also some pine-plantations, intended to serve as nuclei for future forests to utilize the now useless heath. Not far from here are hills of now subdued drifting sand. The whole desolate nei^hbourhord to the W. of the river shows clear vestiges of having once been populous and cultivated. For return journey the shortest route is by Bresten, a village with a good roadside inn, and the high road to Veile about 7 m., past Earaldsltjair, a very old, now modernised, manor- house, supposed to derive its name from Harald Blaatand. If, however, it is not too late in the day a pretty round may be made by way of Kjel- hjasr farm and Kohbervseket (copper- mill), joining the ordinary road at Haraldskjser. It is a long and some- what fatiguing excursion occupying the whole day, but it gives an admir- able idea of the character of the Cimbrian peninsula. The price of a carriage is 8 dollars. Horsens, 19 m. N. of Veile, is the next town to which the railway leads. Tins town, too, is situated at the head of an inlet from tlie sea, but, though the neighbourhood is pretty, it cannot compare with Veile in this respect. Horsens ( Jorgensen's Hotel ; Socle's Hotel), has 11,000 inhabitants, and is upon the whole well built. There are a few old houses with carved timber, but the only public buildings calling for notice are the churches, Vor Frelsers Kirhe, with some interesting architectural details, and a beautifully carved pulpit, which reminds us of the character of the work of the altar in Sleswig Cathedral, and originally belonged to the Grey friar s church, one of the only 2 churches built by this order which still exist in Denmark. A short distance from the town is the provincial prison of Jutland, a very large and well-arranged establifch- ment. Excursions may be made to Boiler (3 m.), one of the most ancient manors in Denmark (the most modern part dates from 1588), near the southern coast of the fjord, and to the woods of Steensballe (8 m.) on the northern shore with beautiful views. Skanderhorg (Phoenix, a very mo- dest Inn), 18 m. north of Aarhuus, has its name from an ancient castle which stood here till 1767, when it was demolished, with the excep- tion of one tower and the chapel, now parish church. It had been the scene of many important historical §6 ROTJTi] 8. — SILK^BORG — AARHUtS. Benmarh events, and often served as a re- sidence. Near the church is a mo- nument for Frederik VI., a marble bust on a pedestal of granite, orna- namented with bassi-relievi, repre- senting Justice, Liberty, Enlight- enment, and the Institution of the Provincial Estates, established in 1834 by Frederik VI., which formed the beginning of the present free constitution of Denmark. Close by is the village of Skandrup, with a very peculiar church tower. The church was entirely gutted by the German troops in 1849, but is now very tastefully restored. About 4 m. to the N.W. of Skanderborg was formerly the monastery of Veng, of whose buildings a very interesting church remains. From Skanderborg a branch rly. (17 m.) leads to Silhehorg, in the centre of Jutland, and in a neighbour- hood exceptionally rich in forests and lakes. The line passes the church of Dover, with a similar tower to that in Skandrup, and leaving the string of lakes to the 1. offers several fine views of the country. Silkeborg was originally only a manor belonging to the bishops of Aarhuus, and the derivation of the name is according to legend the fol- lowing. One Bishop Peter was sail- ing on the lake, and considering which would be the best place for a manor-house, when the wind caught hold of his silk cap and carried it into the sea. The prelate vowed that the manor-house should be built wherever the cap should be thrown upon the shore, and because it was a silken cap the house was called Silkeborg. The estate came to the crown at the Reformation, but the kings rarely come here, and the so- called "Slot" or palace is a very insignificant building. In 1845, a large paper-mill was established here, and since then a town has arisen, which has already 2300 Inhab. (Hotels : Silkeborg and Dania.) Silkeborg is situated in the valley of Gudenaa, the largest river in Den- mark, which here expands into a series of lakes, surrounded by dense beech- woods or steep hills overgrown with heath ; here too is Himmel- hjerget, the highest point in Denmark, from which the view, although the height is only 550 ft., equals in beauty that from many a mountain. The immediate neighbourhood of Silke- borg is exceedingly pretty and well supplied with walks and seats. In Norreslcov, the wood east of Silke- borg, which is traversed by the rly., the best views are from " Ulveho- vedet " and Louisehoi. In Vesterslcov, which is south of Silkeborg, about one mile off, the best points are Fre-- derikkehoi and Fredrik VII.^s Hoi (5 m. walk from Silkeborg). In the height of summer small steamers ply on the lakes, and a sail on these to Rymolle or to Himmelhjerget is very much to be recommended. The principal excursion is to Him- meJbjerget, on the S. shore of luul so^ about 10 m. drive (carriage 4 rix- dols.). The view is very extensive and varied, and particularly in the afternoon or evening very charac- teristic. Another point of great beauty is Tindhjerg. There is a res- taurant at Himmelhjerget. To lovers of wood and lake scenery this whole neighbourhood is an inexhaustible source of delight ; those who are able to spare but a day, can manage to see the best points, by driving in the morning to Norreskov, thence through Vesterskoo to Himmelhjerget, and thence home through the woods or by steamer to Silkeborg, or by rly. to Skanderborg. The new rly. will have a station at By, which is only 3 m. from Himmelhjerget. Aarhuus (Hotel Royal, Skandi- navien), 13 m. north of Skanderborg, a thriving town of 15,000 inhab., is one of the oldest in the kingdom, and as early as 948 it became the seat of a bishop. The cathedral is the longest church in Denmark (290 ft.), commenced in 1201, by Bishop Peter ROtJTE 8. — AARHUTTS. 8t Vagnsen of the famous house of Hvide, who died in 1204, and is buried under the altar ; but much altered in the course of time. The spire, 340 ft. high, was destroyed several times, last in 1772, and has not since then been renewed ; the two small towers, too, had originally tall spires. By judi- cious restoration most of the taste- less mutilations of later times are removed, and the original beauties of the building are brought to light again. The choir is particularly light and elegant. The altar bears the date of 1479, and displays beau- tiful carving on gold ground. As in many Danish churches, a ship is suspended in the centre of the cross ; this particular one is a model which Peter the Great had bought in Hol- land, but which never reached its destination, the vessel which had it on board being wrecked on the coast of Jutland. The numerous chapels are mostly used as family sepulchres, and a great many persons known in Danish history repose here. Vor Frue Kirke was originally the chapel of a Dominican monas- tery, which is still preserved to a great extent, and used as an hospital, and is very well worth a visit. The date of the buildings is 1280. The Lunatic Asylum, N. of the town, is also noteworthy. In the town are several old houses with carved timber framework. The immediate neighbourhood is pretty, and Biiskov to the north, Marselisborg, and other woods along the coast to the south, afford charm- ing excursions, though principally for pedestrians, as the latter woods are private property, and not open to carriages except on Sundays and Feast days. A longer excursion is to FHjsenborg, the seat and park of Count Frijs-Frijsenborg, once Prime Minister, and the largest landed pro- prietor in Denmark. The distance by road is about 15 m. ; a carriage costs 6 rixdollars ; but from the Hinnerup station it is only a w^alk of G m. The house is modern Elizabethan, and very handsome. Between Aarhuus and the next town, Banders, the rly. as well as the high road cuts across the base of a peninsula formed by the sea and the fjord of Banders, which contains some of the prettiest scenery in Jut- land. The direct distance is by road 21 m.; by rly., on account of the windings of the valley in which it is built, nearly 36 m. Those who wish to explore Jutland will prefer to spend a couple of days on a drive through this peninsula, sleeping at Grenaa, or easier, three days, sleep- ing at Ebeltoft and Grenaa. For the first 10 m. the road offers nothing remarkable. After passing the village of Skjoldstrup it divides. One branch which we will first men- tion takes an easterly direction, and soon reaches the sea. After a couple of miles' drive along the shore a side road turns sharply to the left inland, which leads to Thorsager, which is about 4 m. out of the way, but pos- sesses the finest and best preserved Circular Church in Denmark, built on an isolated hill, where in all pro- bability was a principal j^lace of worship for the Scandinavian deity of Thor. This church was built about the year 1200, by Bishop Peder Vagnsen of Aarhuus, the same who commenced the building of the ca- thedral at Aarhuus. The round arch is exclusively used, and the brick- work is unusually well finished* The other branch of the road from Aarhuus, leads from Skjoldstrup to the north past the church of Horns- let, having a fine altar of alabaster and carved oak, to the manor-house of Bosenholm, the seat of the family of Bosenkrands, 6 m. from Aarhuus^ The house was built in 1569. Here a side road leads eastward to Thors- ager, about 5 m. through the village of Morke, with a very old church having curious sculptured stones. In any case the journey is continued from Thorsager by another and s§ tlOUTE 8. — JUO'LAKB — :6bELT0FT. Denmarh, better road, which joins the high road from Aarhuiis at Kalo Lade- gaard, originally the farmstead of Kalo Castle, of which the ruins si- tuated on an island in Kalo Vig, a bay of the Kattegat, form the next object of our attention. It is neces- sary to drive about a mile towards Aarhuus to a tolerable good roadside inn, called Ronde Kro, whence a side road leads southwards to the Ruin. Here was originally a monastery, but in 1313 a fortified castle was built by King Erik Menved, which remained till 1674, when it was de- molished in order to furnish mate- rials for Charlottenborg Palace, in Copenhagen. Amongst notable state prisoners who have been incarce- rated here, we mention Gustav Vasa, who was brought hither 1518, but escaped, and after having placed him- self at the head of the discontented Swedes, accomplished the final dis- ruption of the three Scandinavian kingdoms, and founded a new dy- nasty in Sweden. A massive square tower and part of the outer wall re- main. The view over the sea is fine. We return to Ronde Kro and Kalo Ladegaard, where two main roads lead eastward, of which the more northerly road leads to Greenaa, past the ancient churches of Nodager and Jjynghy, with very interesting Nor- man details, in the first a fine altar painting from 1647, and following the lake of Kollnd Sund, originally a fjord, but long since converted into a lake by the formation of extensive meadows at its mouth. The more southerly of the two roads leads from Kalo Ladegaard to Ebeltoft, past the ancient manor of Mollerup and the pretty old church of Feldhalle, from whence a road leads to 7 hirstruj^, quite 4 m. out of the direct way, but worthy of a visit by lovers of ancient art, on account of the church, which is not only interesting in itself, but has a very fine carved altar, and a very remarkable sculptured pulpit, which must have been brought from abroad. Ebeltoft is an insignificant little toAvn (Schlavitz Hotel), and the im- mediate neighbourhood is uninterest- ing, but the road from here to Greenaa leads through very pretty country. Half an hour's walk from the town is a wood called " Skoven,'* with a good view of the peninsula of Mols, whose inhabitants are cele- brated in Danish popular tales on account of their supposed uncon- scionable naivete, not to say stu- pidity, of which there are scores of ludicrous anecdotes. The southern extremity of Mols is formed by Hel- genais, which is only connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus ; in ancient times the latter was de- fended by a wall of which vestiges remain, and it was also fortified dur- ing the late wars between Den- mark and Germany. It was from here that General Rye, in 1849, after having been obliged to retire before the far more numerous German army, took ship with his whole corps d'armee, and suddenly appearing before Fredericia far in the rear of the enemy, won the battle of Frede- ricia. The sea is very deep quite close to the coast of Helgenses. Helgenais is said to have belonged to Marsh Stig, who murdered King Erik Glipping in 1286, and whose adherents afterwards caused much trouble and civil war. He is sup- posed to have raised the above- mentioned fortification across the isthmus, and on the island Hjtlm in the Kattegat, not far ofi", he is said to have had a castle, but of this no traces are found. The deed of Marsk Stig, and the events connected with it form the theme of a whole cycle of ancient ballads. The high road between Ebeltoft and Greiiaa (18 m.) is not parti- cularly interesting, but there is a road between that and the shore which leads to some of the prettiest scenery in Jutland, namely, by the Denmark, EOUTE 8. — GRENAA — liANDEliS. 89 manors of Rugaard and KatJwlm, both with very interesting old build- ings from the latter half of the 16th century. Grenaa (Hotel Dagmar) has nothing of interest beyond an old lately restored church, but a very pretty excursion may be made from here to Benzon, a fine old manor-house built about the year 1600, with beau- tiful park and woods ; both from here and upon the w^liole from the coast near Grenaa the views over the sea are very fine. From Grenaa to Banders the dis- tance is 33 miles, and if the route is laid by Meilgaard, Lovenholm and Gammel Estrup^ a prettier drive is "not easily found. Glsesborg church, 7 m. from Grenaa, has a fine and large carved altar (date 1618). Meilsgaard was built in 1573 and is surrounded by hills from which the old red building with its woods and the sea in the background make a very charming panorama. In Aigliolm wood, close to sea, is the celebrated Idtchen-midden, of Meilsgaard, the first that was scientifically explored ; it was discovered in 1850, and archaeologists, who bring their tools are readily permitted to examine it. On the sea shore itself are dunes of drifting sand overtopping the beeches and oaks of the forest, whose green tops often are seen peeping out of the sand. Lovenholm is contemporary with Meilsgaard, and has a beautiful park. In the woods there are still wild stags. The church of Auning is very pretty and contains the family sepulchre of the Counts of Scheel, whose seat, Gammel Estrup, is about 2 m. further to the west. This is one of the finest buildings in Den- mark of the period of the renaissance, built 1630, in a very picturesque position on one side of a broad val- ley. This estate has the peculiarity of never having been sold during the last 500 years, but only changed hands by inheritance. In the ban- queting hall are woven tapestries of the 17th cent. Nearer Eanders is the village of Essenhsek^ with a new church containing a remarkable old font, which probably belonged to a monastery which was found here in 1040 and remained till the Reforma- tion. There is a direct road from Ebeltoft to Eanders through IViorsager (see above) and past a fine manor-house caWed tSkaffogaard, with very peculiar buildings, dating from the 16th cent., and a famous piece of carved furni- ture made of an oak which is still standing with its roots in the ground underneath the cellar. The dimen- sions are 14 feet by 12. The railway from Aarhuus to Eanders follows the valley of the Lilleaa, a tributary to Gudenaa, and where the two valleys meet, at Langaa is the junction with the railway to Viborg and the West of Jutland. Banders (Eanders Hotel, Hotel Cimbria) is a very old town, on the Gudenaa which is navigable for large merchant ships, with 12,000 inhabitants. The town is mentioned in the 11th cent, and some of the earliest Danish coin were struck here; many historical events are connected with it, but none more famous than the deed of Niels Ehbesen, a Jutland nobleman, who on the 1st of April, 1340, with a handful of men entered the town which was occupied by Count Gerhard, of Holstein, who was quartered there with 4000 soldiers, and penetrating into the castle killed Count Gerhard. Owing to civil war, bad administration, and the personal incompetence of the Danish king Christopher, the whole country had come into the possession of foreigners who unscrupulously oppressed it. Against this rule Niels Ebbesen raised a rebellion which ended in the liberation of the country under Val- demar III. Nothing remains now of the ancient castles which are stated to have existed here, and there are not j many remains of old buildings. The 90 ROUTE 8. — JUTLAND — EANDERS. Denmarh. church of St. Morten was built in the 13th century, of red brick, with pointed arches, and has been well re- stored. Banders is the original seat of the manufacture of the specially so-called Danish gloves, and was celebrated for its salmon fisheries, which, however, have much declined on account of injudicious fishing. The fish used to ascend the fjord of Eanders and the Gudenaa in great quantity, and the manors along the river derived great advantage from their Laxegaarde or fishing-places. Now only one remains, namely, at Frisenvold, 5 m. from the town. The neighbourhood is pretty; and, as this part of Jutland was densely populated in the time of paganism and even in the middle ages, there are a great number of fine old churches and other antiquarian remains. About 5 m. south of Banders is the church of Olst, built of granite with remarkable sculptui*es, an altar of the same kind as those of Lisbjerg and Tvenstrup, now in the museum of Northern antiquities at Copen- hagen (see this), an ancient granite font, &c. A visit to 01st may be combined with a visit to Frisenvold, and to ClausJiolm, with fine park and woods. It was from Clausholm that Fredrik IV., in 1712, carried away the Countess Anna Sophia, daughter of the then Lord Chan- cellor of Denmark, Count Bevent- low, whom he afterwards made queen of Denmark. A beautiful excursion may be made to Fousingso, a lake encircled by woods and steep hills clothed with heath, particularly fine near hasten church, as seen from Fousingso mill. Near Lasten a great quantity of ornaments, &c. — more than 4000 pieces — of amber were discovered some years ago, which are now in the museum of antiquities in Copen- hagen. On the journey to Fousingso, the old church of Bjerregrav with a Norman doorway, under which is a Bunic stone, may be visited, and the return journey should be laid through Aalum, with one of the finest granite churches in Norman style in Denmark. Further to the south is the fine manor of Ulstrup, built in 1617; in a wood close by a large Bunic stone well known to archaeologists in Denmark as the Grondal stone. Not far from Ulstrup was the old Shjern Castle, of which the foundations are still seen ; it was destroyed in the 17th cent. The church of Shjern has a richly carved altar, and two Bunic stones. Be- turning to Banders through Langaa and Grendsten, a third of these monuments is seen near the church of this latter village. Interesting old churches are also to be seen in JBorup, 3 m. N. of Banders, with a very fine carved altar, Hald (granite) also with a carved altar, formerly in St. Mar- tins in Banders, about 7 m. N.E. of Banders; Holbek with remarkably flat vaults of granite, Orsted with fine Norman doorway and sculptures and very old font, Veilby with a similar doorway. The last 3 may be combined with a visit to the manors of Stovringgaard (now a convent for unmarried ladies of good family) and Stenalt, viz., from . Banders to Stovringgaard, thence via Nellerup, by " the ferry " across Banders- fjord, thence to Holbek, and by Orsted, Veilby, Essenbsek back to Banders. I'he country between Banders and Aalborg on the Limfjord, about 50 English miles, is not sufiiciently interesting to compensate for the tediousness of a journey by road, which may be performed by two different routes, viz., either by way of Hald, Iladsund ferry on the JVlariager fjord, near which is a large kitchen- midden on the manor of Havno, past Vishorggaard (1^ m. out of the way to the right), a very fine old manor-house, built 1575, and Linden- horg, the seat of Count Schimmel- Denmarh. ROUTE 8. — AALBORG. 91 mann, erected in the 15th and 16th cents. — or by way of Hohro, past Borup (see above) and North of Hobro, through the extensive forest of Bold, round which a little nest of old manor-houses cluster, amongst which Norlund is the most interest- ing. The railway leads through a hilly country in about one hour to Hobro (Fogtman's Hotel), an old town but entirely rebuilt after two great fires in 1812 and 1813, with about 2000 inhabitants, at the head of the long and narrow Mariagerfjord, sur- rounded by very steep hills which entirely conceal it till one is quite near. The church is new but has an old font and a good carved altar from 1699 ; by the church a Runic stone. There are pretty walks along the fjord, but the best excursion is to Mariager, 8 m. east of Hobro on the fjord (steamer daily; Redder- sens Hotel). This miniature town owes its existence to a famous Birgittine convent and monastery founded about the year 1400 in this pretty and secluded spot. But little of the monastic buildings and only a part of the church remain, and the latter has suffered dreadfully from churchwarden improvements, but the tall elegant pillars and pointed windows, the old carved altar, &c., will not fail to interest the lover of architecture and antiquities. AaJhorg (Hotel Phoenix ; du Nord, &c.), on the Limfjord, with 12,000 inhab., is not only an old town (coins were struck here by king Hardekund, who reigned in 1035-1072), but no other town in Denmark proper has to such an extent preserved its ancient appearance, which, however, the im- provements so-called of modern times are effacing by degrees. Numer- ous narrow and steep alleys and five small brooks traverse the town, which consequently is rich in old bridges and all kinds of curious nooks and corners. Amongst the private houses in old style the best is Jens Bangs Gaard, built 1623 now a pharmacy, and the house of King Hans, which is much older. It is reported that the king died here in 1513. Numerous interesting old fragments may be found by strolling about the town, particularly near Osteraa. There are now only two churches, of which Vor Frueskirl^e, built about the year 1100, is the finest. More particularly an ancient Norman Doorway may be mentioned as deserving of notice. The old monastery of the Holy Ghost is still used as a Hospital, and has preserved many old features. The Limfjord, which is here only 600 yards wide, does not really de- serve the name of a fjord in as far as it is not a closed inlet of the sea. In ancient times it was so, and since 1822 it is again really a sound, 50 m. long, connecting the North Sea and the Kattegat and converting the extreme North of Jutland into an island. As late as the 11th century this part consisted still of several islands, which a subsequent slow up- heaval of the soil has united by transforming the intervening sounds into low meadow tracts. This northern extremity of Jut- land is in many respects very in- teresting, and no traveller in Jutland should fail to pay a visit to it. For the eastern part — which is called Vendsi/ssel, and whose inhabitants, the Vendelboer, have made themselves famous for their obstinate love of liberty and their dogged resistance to royal and ecclesiastical poAver — Aalborg forms a convenient starting point. Those who are pressed for time may content themselves with an excursion to Skagen, or as our English sailors have dubbed it the Shaw; but several days may very pleasantly be spent on exploring the country. The railway from Norre JSundby on the northern shore of the Limfjord, opposite Aalborg to Fred- rikshavn on the eastern coast via Hjorring is in course of construe- 92 ROUTE 8. — JUTLAND — VOERGAAED. J^enmarh. tion and will soon be finished, but from Fredrikshavn to Skagen the carriage-road must still be used. If a more complete tour is intended, one should go by road from Aalborg to Sseby and thence by Fredrikshavn to Skagen, and either the same way back to Fredrikshavn and by rail to Hjorring, or by road along the west coast to Hjorring ; from whence one might either reach Aalborg by rail, and then visit Thyland — the north- west corner of Jutland — by steamer on the Limfjord, or else proceed to Lokken on the shore of the North Sea, and follow this as far as Thisted, the principal town of Thyland. We describe the more complete tour, from which selection may be made. The Limfjord is crossed between Aalborg and Norre Sundby on a pontoon bridge, the rapidity of the current, the depth of the water, the quality of the soil and the violence of the floating ice in spring, render- ing the construction of a permanent bridge resting on piers, a work of great difficulty and expense. From I^orre Sundby^ opposite Aal- borg, two main roads and a railway start ; the latter as well as one of the roads to the north, the other road in a westerly direction to Thisted. The high road to the north soon 'divides into two branches, one proceeding straight north to Hjorring, the other, which we now have to notice, in a north-easterly direction to Ssfby (28 m.). About 10 m. from Norre Sundby, just before reaching the modest inn of Hjallerup, the road crosses Orum Moor, famous for the not unfrequent appearance of_a mirage representing the church of Orum, a couple of miles away, reflected in a sea with wooded islands. The centre and south- eastern part of Vendsyssel is dis- tinguished by a range of hills with peculiar short and abrupt outlines, and deep valleys of which the steep sides are covered with rich wood, called " den jydske Aas." The first spur of this, the hills of Altrup, is passed between Norre Sundby and Hjallerup; one of the main ridges rises just beyond Hjallerup, and is called Alleruphanker. From a point close to the high road, where this crosses the summit of the range, there is a very fine view of the whole country, and close by, to the right, appears a beautiful and character- istic wooded tract called Dromings- lund StorskoVj which is rich in fine walks and views. It has its name from the neighbouring manor of Dronninglund, formerly a convent called Hundslund, afterwards Royal property. From several points in the wood the manor-house, with its two square towers, appears. About 2 miles on, and 16 miles from Norre Sundby, is Flaunskjoldkro, a very modest roadside inn where a side road leads to the right to Voergaard (2 m.), one of the finest buildings in Denmark. This old manor once belonged to the Bishops of Borglum or Vendsyssel, but came after the Reformation into the possession of private owners, amongst whom Inge- borg Skeel, the wife of Otto Banner, built the principal part of the present (1588-1591) house, though parts are older. It is of red brick, ornamented with a profusion of excellently wrought sandstone sculptures, with spiral staircases, all sorts of curious niches, and passages, and a prison- cell, " the Rosodont," concerning which such dreadful ghost stories are told, that not even the boldest mis- creant will pass a night there with- out confessing his crimes. Number- less are the legends told of the lady who built this handsome pile, and of the shifts to which she was put in order to pay for the erection of this great work; but for these we have no space. In the neighbouring Voer church, is a splendid monument erected by her order for herself and her husband; there is also a fine carved altar. A small river, Voersaa, flows towards the Kattegat not far from Voergaard, and after passing Denmarh, ROUTE 8. FREDRIKSHAVN. 93 another manor-house, called Rugtved^ a modern Gothic edifice, it winds through a very narrow valley with fine beech -trees along the side, whose tops meet over the water, and one may row a couple of miles under this delightful canopy from Rugtved to the sea. Beyond Flauns- kjold the road from Norre Sundby runs across the spurs of lydske Aas past some old unpretending manors, corn-fields, and meadows to Sxby (Harmonien), a little borough on the shores of the Kattegat, which owes, if not its existence, at any rate its prosperity, in the Middle Ages, to the existence of a rich convent of which now only the lofty but narrow church, with a fine carved altar, remains. A side chapel with a huge central pier supporting a handsome vaulted roof, is at present walled off from the church and used as an engine-house. The town has considerable fisheries particularly of turbot. Opposite Sseby is the island of Lsesso sur- rounded by dangerous sandbanlis, whose inhabitants have preserved a handsome mediaeval costume, but which otherwise offers nothing of interest. The distance from Saeby is 14 m. and the excursion at best a very rough one. The neighbourliood of Saeby to the W. and N. is very pretty ; a charm- ing walk of a couple of miles leads through a winding valley and fine woods to Sxhygard, an ancient manor with fine old buildings. Other pretty points may be vi&ited on the way to Fredrikshavn by choosing a some- what winding rte. further inland, instead of the ordinary high road which follows the seashore (8 m.). The principal points should be Oxen- hede, Karup Kirke, Thronhaven, Understed Kirke, Rosengaarden, Vrangbxk, Studehukken (fine view), Flade Kirke, and Bangsbo Skov, all pretty and characteristic specimens of Danish landscape-beauty. Fredrikshavn was formerly called Fladstrand, and was 120 years ago merely a fishing - village on the ground of the manor of KnivehoU, whose owner, in 1740, sold it to one of the inhabitants for the sum of 4:4:01. sterling. It is now a rising town, and by the railroad from Aalborg it is placed in direct com- munication with the whole continent. It is expected that a considerable traffic from Sweden and Norway will be led this way by means of it. There is a harbour of refuge, which is sought by hundreds of vessels at a time during winter when naviga- tion in the Kattegat is exceedingly difficult and dangerous. Many of the inhabitants obtain a livelihood by the oyster fisheries carried on a little N. of the town; the oysters, commonly called Fladstrand's osterSy are very much appreciated in Den- mark; they are much larger and richer, but not so delicate as the English natives. Opposite Fredrikshavn are the islands of Hirtsholmene, which con- sist of aa enormous quantity of' boulders covered by a very thin layer of earth. They are very* dangerous to navigation, and there is a lighthouse to warn the vessels that approach them. Their population consists mainly in rabbits, of which there are countless multitudes. From Fredrikshavn to Skagen the distance is 22 m., mostly a sandy and heavy road. A few m. N. of Fred- rikbhavn the country becomes bare, and vast moors extend in every direc- tion. A very peculiar formation is here observed, consisting of so-called Bopper and Rimmer— the former being strips of meadow land 20 to 40 ft. wide, sometimes a mile or two long, running parallel with the coast, but at a considerable distance from it, and separated from each other by " Rimmer," sand ridges 10 to It) ft. high and overgrown with heather. Presently the road leads through a large fishing- village, Aalheek, opposite the oyster-banks in Aalbaik bay, and at the basis of the 94 ROUTE 8. — THE SKAGEN. Denmark, promontory of the Skaw. From Aalbsek on the Kattegat to the North Sea shore there are only 5 m., which are gradually reduced to 2 at the town of Skagen, about 12 m., in a straiglit line from Aalbsek. The whole promontory is covered with drifting sand, forming ever-shifting hills, and it is only where a little brook affords the necessary moibture that a verdant turf is produced. The town of Skagen had formerly not inconsiderable corn fields, but all is buried under the sand, and so is the old Gothic church, of which only the square tower is still visible. The sand itself is not destitute of nutri- ment for vegetation, and with the aid of fish-manure very fair crops of barley are raised ; but the ground is unstable, and a strong gale may all of a sudden whirl up the sand and destroy the vegetation. Nor do the never-resting winds allow trees or shrubs to grow unless tended by espe- cial care, such as have nursed the small plantation near the residence of the Byfoged or principal magistrate. Bound the cottages of the fishermen nothing grows but " marehalm '* {Ely- mus arenarius), of which the rigid stems and leaves reach as high as the roof. The history of Skagen is a his- tory of gales, and sand -drifts, and ship- wreck, and its great events are such as the drift of 1775 when the old church was buried, or the gale of "little Christmas eve," as they say in Den- mark, meaning the evening before Christmas eve, 1825, when 50 richly laden merchantmen went on shore, &c. Here is plenty of work for the rocket apparatus and the hfeboat; and many a tale of gallantry — how often a mournful tale — is found in the annals of Skagen. In the wall of the new church there is, for instance, a handsome basso-relievo in memory of the sad accident on the 27th Dec, 1862, when the lifeboat was upset, in an attempt during a furious gale to save the crew of a Swedish brig; the whole crew perished, but a pub- lic subscription was opened, and 3500Z. were collected for their 7 widows and their children, and Danes and Swedes in London placed the tablets here in memoriam. It is one of the wildest and most desolate spots in the world, yet within a couple of hours' journey from fertile, peaceful, and idyllic rustic landscapes. To the long straggling town of Skagen the railway will never penetrate ; for miles S. of it the only track along which horses can draw a vehicle is just along the edge of the sea, where the water cements the sand into a tempoi-ary firmness. "W here the small brooks which exist in this sandy desert join the sea it is necessary to turn right into the latter and round their mouth, because only a small por- tion of their course is above the sand and visible, their main course is below the sand, through which horse and carriage would sink. At Skagen there is a Lighthouse of the first order, and a so-called signal station, through which passing ships can communicate the fact of their passage to their owners by flag signals, which are duly reported and published. The return to Aalborg may be made by road as described to Fre- drikshavn, and thence by rail via Hjorring — a line which does not call for further notice — or one may drive to Hjorring by way of the western coast of the promontory. In this case one would follow the road or track towards Fredrikshavn as far as Torreverre rende, a brook surrounded by a fresh green oasis, and then cross from the E. to the W. coast, where a similar oasis is found at Kandestederne (salvage station). In the neighbourhood of the latter place the clift's exhibit extensive layers of Martorv, a peculiar kind of semi- fossil peat, and they are in many places crowned by co-called Steen- sletter, large spaces covered with stones as firmly and closely joined as if they had been paved with art. At Tversted (very modest inn), which DenmarJc. ROUTE 8. — BOEGLUM KLOSTER. 95 is just at the base of the promontory of the Skaw, the road to Hjorring turns inland, past the old manor- house of Odden, built in the 14th century. The distance from Skagen to Hjorring by this road is 32 m., and as the horses hardly exceed a foot pace, it is rather fatiguing, though the peculiar character of the country prevents its being tedious. From Hjorring (Hotel du Nord), which does not offer any special attraction to tourists, the road and railway to Norresundby go almost in a straight line past the old convent of Vreileo (1. 8 m. from Hjorring). Far more interesting is the round by Lokken and Blokhusene. Lohken is a small market borough on the coast of the North Sea, about 10 m. S.W. of Hjorring, whose inhabitants trade to Norway and England, but whose streets are paved with nothing but drifting sand. Two miles inland is Borglum lUoster, originally a royal residence, and mentioned as such in 1086, since 1128 a monastery, which at the time of the Reformation had grown very rich, and was the resi- dence of the Bishop of Vendsyssel, now in private hands. The church which served as cathedral is now a parish church, and the exterior of the building has still preserved its peculiar character. Just outside is Baalhoi, an eminence from which 44 churches can be counted. The road leads toward^the S. through a num- ber of villages to Ilune Kirke (with a Runic stone), from whence a visit may be paid to Blokhusene^ a little group of houses in green meadows surrounded by sand-hills on the shore of the sea, about 2 m. out of the way. From Hune the road turns to the S. E. to Aahy, with a good inn. Scarce 2 m. E. of Aaby is the boundary of the Vildmose^ an extensive moor covering about 50 square miles, and entirely impassable, as the greater part of it has the character of a quag- mire. It appears that at the bottom trees are standing erect, proving that it owes its existence to a subsidence of the ground, which is so much the more remarkable, as otherwise the whole of this country has been sub- jected to an upheaval in historic times. About 1 m. to the S.W. of Aaby is the manor of Birkelse, with a beautiful garden. Nearer Norre Sundby the old moated manor-house of Rodslet with buildings of the 16th century is observed. The whole dis- tance, including the visit to Blok- husene, is about 40 m. The western division of the land N. of the Limfjord consists of Thy- land, which forms the N.W. corner of the whole peninsula, and which is best explored from Thistedy the prin- cipal town, situated on an arm of the fjord, and of the so-called Hanher^ reder, a strip of land between the Limfjord and the North Sea, con- necting Vendsyssel with Thyland. Thisted may be reached by road from Norre Sundby through the Hanher- reder, and the different points of interest visited on the road ; but the better plan is to take steamer from Aalborg to Aggersund, which serves as a centre for the Hanherreder^ and from thence again steamer to Thisted. The Limfjord, which at Aalborg has a width of barely 500 yards, and on the whole course from its mouth at Hals on the Kattegat to Aalborg a distance of 17 m., scarcely ever exceeds a mile in width, widens almost at once W. of Aalborg into a so-called Breding, viz., Nibe Bred- ing, containing a number of small islands and 3 larger ones, Eegholm, Gjolland, and Oland. The latter is rich in beautiful timber, and will be noticed below. The Breding has its name from the little town of Nihe on the southern shore, where the steamer stops. Farther W. the fjord again becomes narrower, the width being reduced to 300 yards at Aggersund, where a ferry is established. On the southern shore is Logstor (Hotel du 96 ROUTE 8. — oLAND — sviNKLov — BULBJERG. DenmarJc, Nord, LimQorden), a new place which no doubt soon will become an im- portant town. The navigation of the Fjord is very diflicult here on account of sand-banks, and a canal has there- fore been cut about 2^ m. long, whereby these are avoik, 9) Aalbof^, 90, 91 Aaluiii, 90 Aarhuu», 86 ; calhedral,' 86 ; Vor Frue Kirko, 87 ; lunatic asylum, 87 Aaruiv 84 AM>or«^l\iorg(^t Hill, 76 Abs;\lon, Hishop, 44, 75 i^Cn\ Islrtinl of, J9 AggiM- Canal, 97 AgiivrMUKl, 95 AhUuxie, 100 Aigholm, 89 AlUnge, 82 Alnunu\lj\ ayA, 104 Ahniiulinningslntul t^torskow, 92 Duck, wild, j8 Duppel, j5, j9 I)ybb«")l, siege of, J9 DyblKJlbjorg, j6 Dyndal, vjilloy of, 82 Dyndalogaanl, 82 Dyrehavsbttkken, 6j 108 INDEX. EBELTOFT. E. Ebeltoft, 8-7, 88 Eckernforde, ^4 Eegholm, island of, 95 Egeskov, 84 Eider Canal, 29 River, 29 Eising Church, 100 Elmshorn, 28 EiLsiNORK, 65; Sound dues, 65 ; Kronborg Castle, 65 ; Marienhist, 65 ; grave of Hamlet, 65 ; bathing hotel, 66; carriages, 66; excur- sions, 66 Engelholm, manor - house built by Kund Brahe, 85 Engelsholms cloth-mill, 85 , lake of, 85 Episcopal church, English, 7 Enrum, park of, 64 Environs of Copenhagen, 62 Eremitagen, royal hunting- pavilion, 6? Esbjerg, 99, 100, loi Esrom, 66 , lake of, 67 Essenbajk, 89 Eutin, 29 Excursions to Als and Byh- bol, 35 from Hamburgh to Al- tova, 28 from Flenshorg to the Frisian islands, j6 F. Faaborg, 8j Faareveile church, burial- place of Bothwell, 74 Faarup Lake, 85 Falster, island of, 76 Fano, island of, 100 Farggeklit, 98 Faroe, the, Islands, loj Faurbo, village of, 74 Faxe Strand, 78 Faxo, hill of, 78 Feldballe, church of, 88 Fjerridslev, 96 FLadstrand Oesters, 95 Flaunskjoldkro, 92 Flensborg and environs, i4 Fjord, J 5 , Altona to, ^i to Copenhagen, 39 P'uhr Island, j8 Folkething, the, 18 Fortunen, 6j Fossedal, valley of, 96 Fousingso, lake of, 90 HADERSLEV. Fraendemark, 82 Fraugde, church of, 42 Fredensborg, 67 Fredericia, 30, 40, 84 Fredriksborg, castle of, 67, 68 Fredriksdal, woods of, 63 Frederiksgave, woods of, 84 Frederikshavn, formerly call- ed Fladstrand, 93 Frederikssund, 70 Fredriksvierk, 69 Friederichstadt, j'j Friederichsort, 30 Frijsenborg, seat of Count, 87 Frisenvold, salmon fishery, 90 Frisian Islands, ^8 Fureso, lake of, 6j Fuur, island of, 97 Fyen, island of, 39, 8j Gaabense, 77 Gammel Estrup, 89 Gammelborg, 80 , fortress of, 82 Gauno, castle 0/, 78 General Observations, 21 Geology and General Aspect, 7 Geyser, hot sp'ings, 104 Gilleleie, 66 Gissenfeld, 77 Gjolland, island of, 95 Gjorslev, mansion of, 78 Glgesborg Church, 89 Glorup, 83 Gloves, Danish, 90 Glticksburg, 35, 39 Gltlckstadt, 27 Gotforp, castle of, 32 Graasteen, or Gravenstein, 35, 39 Grenaa, 87, 88, 89 Grendsten, 90 Greisdal, valley of, 84 Greismills, 84 Gribskov, forest of, 68 Grondalstone, 90 Gudenaa Kiver, 8, 86 Gudhjem, 82 Gtildborg, 77 Sound, 77 Gundelstrup, cromlechs at, 96 Gurre, lake of, 66 , ruin of, 67 Gustavus AVasa, 83 H. Haddeby, 33 Haderslev, 40 HORSHOLM. Hadsund Ferry, 90 Hald, 100 Church, 90 , lake of, 100 Hals, 95 HalsuEBS, 69 Hamburg, 27 ; hotels, 27 ; ramparts, 27 ; churches, 27; exchange, 27; zoo- logical gardens, 28 ; money , 28 Hamlet, grave of, 65, 98 Hammeren, island of, 8r JIammershuus, ruins of, 80 81 , two fine caves, 82 Hansherreder, 95 Hansted Fyr, 98 Hanstholm, 98 Haraldskjagr, 8? Harburg, 25, 27 Hardenberg, manor of, 77 Hasle, coal mines of, 81 Haslev, station of, 77, 79 Havelse, 70 Haverslev, 96 Havno, manor of, 90 Hecla, mount, 104 Hedeby, 32 Hee Church, 100 Helgenais, 88 Hellebaik, 66 Helligdommen, 82 Herlufsholm, public school, 78 Hertha, valley of, 74 Hesselagergaard, 83 Hillerod, 67 Himmelbjerget, 86 Hindsgavl, 41 Hirtsholmene, islands of, 93 Historical Notice, 10 Hjallerup, inn of, 92 Hjelin. island of, 88 Hjorring, 92, 94 Hj(3rtsdal, 96 Hobro, 91 Hohnstorf, 22 Hoie Mden, lulls of, 76 Hoiriis, tradition of, 98 Holbaek, old church of, 74 Holbek Church, 90 Holberg, Ludvig, 75 Holckenhavn, 42 Holstebro, 99, 100 Holsteenhuus, 8? Holsteinborg, castle of, 78 Holtenau, 29 Hornbaek, 66 Home, church of, 83 Hornslet, church of, 87 Horsens, 85 Horserod, woods of, 66 Jlorsholm, or Hirschholm, 63,64 109 HORUP. LYNGBY. NORRESKOW. Horup Hav, 36, 39 Klampenborg, 44 Lyngby, lake of, 6j Hoyer, 38 , sea-bathing establish- • , church of, 88 Humlebffik, 67 ment, 63 Lyo, 84 Hune Kirke, 95 Klosterkrug, 31 Husum, 31. 37 Kniveholt, manor of, 95 Htittener Berge (hills of), 3i Knoop Manor, 29 M. Hvedholm, 8j Kobbermollerskoven, wood Hveen, island of, 64 of, 35 Maglehoi, 69 Hvidkilde, 83 Kobbervaerket (copper-mill). Magnus, Bishop, monument 85 Mail Coaches, 4 Kokkedal Manor-house, 96 I. Kolding, 40, 84 Fjord, 40 MalmS, 64 Manufactures, 19 Iceland, 10 i Koldinghuus, ruins of, 40 Mariager, 91 , history of, 105 Kolind Sund, lake of, 88 Fjord, 90 Idsted, 34 Kongsbjerget Hill, 76 Marianelund, 67 Ingeborg Skeel, legends of, 92 Kongshoi, hill of, 83 Maribo, 76 Inijs, 6 Hammervasrk, 83 Marselisborg, 87 Issef jord, the, 69 Korsor, 30, 40, 43 Marsk Stlg, 88 Itzehoe, 28 Koster, 76, 77 Marsiev, 42 luul So, 86 Kreuz Station, 31 Marsvinejagere (dolphin Iver Hvitfelt, commander of Krogerup Park, 67 hunters), 91 the'Dannebrog,' 79 Kronborg, 64 Martorv, or peat, 94 Kurborg, 34 Measures, 2 Meilsgaard, 89 J. Mlddelfart, 41, 83 I. Missunde, 34 Jaegerbakken, 68 Motn, Falster, Lolland. and Jaegerspriis, 69, 70. Lagsso, Island of, 93 the south of Sealand, 76 Jammerbugt, 96 Landskrona, 64 Moen, cliffs of, 76 Jattestue, or Large Sepulchre, Landsthing, 18 , island of, 24, 76 70, 74, 96 Lanenburg, 22 MoUerup, manor of, 88 Jellinge, burial-place of King Langaa, 89, 90 Moltke, Count, collection of Gorm den Gamle, 84 Langeland, island of, 39 pictures, 61 Jons Kapel, legend of, 81 Language, 3 Mols, peninsula of, 88 • Jordebog,' King Walde- Lasten Church, 90 Money, Measures, Weights, i mar's, 37 Leerbaek, 84 Money Orders, 6 Jordfald, phenomenon of, 98 Lemvig, 100 Morke, 87 Jutland, 84 Lerup, 96 Morso, island of, 97, 98 Lerwick, 102 Morsum Cliff, 38 K. Lethraborg, 74 Munkmarscb, 38 Lierslev, church of, 98 Kallehave, 77 Lilleaa River, 89 Kallundborg, 74 Lilleborg, ruins of, 80 N. Kandestederne (salvage sta- Lindenborg, seat of Count tion), 94 Schimmelmann, 90 Niesbyholm old manor-house Kali) Ladegaard, 88 Limfjord, 91, 95 •79 , castle of, 88 Liselund, 76 Nakkehoved, 66 , Vig Bay, 88 Logstor, hotel of, 95 Nestved, 78 Katholm, manor of, 89 Ltikken, 92, 95 Lolland, island of, 76 , town hall of, 78 Kiel, 29 Neumlinster, 29, 30 King Krode, burial-place of, London to Copenhagen, 21, Neustad. 29 70 30 Nexo, 82 Kingo Thomas, sepulchre of, , Overland Route, 25 Nibe Breding, 95 42 , Sea Route, 27 Niels Ebhesen, 89 Kirkwall, 102 Louiselund, 82 Nissum Bredning, 97 Kitchen-middings, 52, 69, 70, I^uisenlund, 34 Nodiiger, church of, 88 74, 89, 90 Lovenholm, 89 Nordborg, 36 Kjeldbymagle, 76 LtlBECK, 22 ; hotels, 23 ; Nordskov, wood of, 70 Kjelkjaer Farm, 85 churches, 23 ; Dance of Nordstrand, 38 Kjoge, 77, 79 Kjogebugt (Bay), two famous Death, 23; cathedral, 23; Norltind, 91 public buildings, Rathhaus, Norre, 38 naval battles, 79 &c., 23 Snndby, 91 Kjokken-modding, or kitch- Ltineburg, 22, 25 Norre Vosborg, 100 en-midding, 69, 74, 89, 90 Lyngby, 63 Norreskow, wood of, 86 110 INDEX. NORTHERN. RY. STAMPS. Northern Antiquities, colleC' Ry Kloster, 35 tirni of, 52 B. Rydhave Manor, 100 Nybol Noer Bay, 55 Rymolle, 86 Nyborg, 30, 42, 83 Railroads, 3 Rytterknsegten, 80 Nykirke, circular church of, 80 Nykjobing, •77, 98 Railway, North Sealand, 62, 64 , from Flensborg to S. Nylarsker, circular church of, Fredericia, 40 Sffiby, 92, 93 Saebygard Manor, 93 81 Randbolhede, 85 Nyso, seat of Baron Stampe, Randers, 87, 89 Sal, church of, 100 77 , fjord of, 87, 90 Sailing Church, 96 Randkloveskaaret, 82 Sund, 98 0. Refsnaes, 74 Salmon, 105 Beikiavik, 103 Sandvig, 82 Odden Manor-house, 93? Rendsburg, 30 Saxlgobing, 77 Odense, 41, 83; hotels, 41; Revenue, 20 Saxo Grammaticus, 70, 73 churches, 41 ; palace, 42 Hibe, 40, 99, loi Sealand, and the adjoining Odinshoi, 66 , cathedral of, 101 smaller islands, 61 Oland, island of, 95, 96 Riesendamm, or Giants' Silkeborg, legend of, 86 Olskirke, circular church of, Dyke, 33 Sjorring, church of, 97 ..82 Riiskov, 87 Void, 97 Olst, church of, 90 Ringe, 84 Skafifogaard, manor-house of, Om, village of, 74 Ringebakker, 81 89 Orbaekslund, manor of, 83 Ringkjobing, 99, 100 Skagen, or the Skaw, 91, 94 Oresund, 63 Ringsted, 34. 4J. 75 , old church of, 94 Orkney, the islands of, loi Rispebjerget, 83 , new church of, 94 (irsted, 31 Rivers — Gudenaa, 8 ; Trave, Skalholt, 104 - — , church of, 90 23 ; Alster, 27 ; Eider, 29 ; Skamlingsbanke, 40 Orum Moor, mirage of, 92 Treen, 37; V«re, 70; Vei- Skanderborg, 85 Oster Larsker, 81, 82 leaa, 85 ; Lilleaa, 89 ; Voer- Skandrup, 86 Osteraa, 91 saa, 92; Storaa, 99; Bru- Skandsebakke, 68 Osterlars Kirke, circular ara, 104 Skarreklit Rock, 96 church of, 82 Rodby, 77 Skarridso, lake of, 75 Overbeck, 23 Rcidekro, 40 Skarrup, 83 Overdreosbakken, 77 Riislet Manor-house, 95 Skibby, church of, 74 Oversoe. 35 Eoeskilde, with the central Skive, 97, 98 Skjaerpinegaard, 96 Oxeby, 96 and western parts of Sea- Oxholm Manor-house, for- land, 71 Skjelskjiir, 79 merly Okloster, 96 Roeskilde, 43, 69, 70 ; cathe- Skjern Castle, 90 Oyster Fisheries, 38, 100 dral, 71; Vor Frue Kirke, , church of, 90 [ and other churches, 73 ; Skjoldstrup, 87 lunatic asylum, 74 Skodsborg, 64 P Roeskilde, excursions from, Skoven Wood, 88 74 Slagelse, 43, 79 Sleswig and Environs, 31 Paradisbakkeme, 82 Rokkesteen, 80 Passport and Custom-house, Rold, forest of, 91 , battle of, 33 3 Romb Church, 100 Slie, the (German Schlei),3i Pedersborg Church, 75 RoDde Kro Inn, 88 33,34 Pel worm Island, 38 Ronne, 80 Slotslyngen, common of, 81 Pinneberg, 28 Ronnede, 77 Snoghoi, 41 Ploen, 29^ Rosenborg Castle, 56 Soborg, 60 Postage, 5 Rosenheim, manor-house of, Solager, 69 Posting 3 .Jl Sonderborg, 35, 3^, 39 Praesto, 77 Ro Sogn, district of, 82 Sorgenfri, 63 Prison, provincial, of Jut- Rostgaard Stone, 67 Soro. 43, 75. 79 land. 85 Routes to and through Den- Sorthat, coal-mines of, 81 mark, I, 21 Sound, 65 Rudkjobing, birthplace of H. Spottrup Manor-house, 98 Q. C. Orsted, the discoverer Sprogo, island of, 42 of electro-magnetism, 39 St, Helen's Well, 69 Qnemdrup, 84 Rungsted, village of, 64 St. Jorgensbjerg, 96 Runic Stones, 34, 81, 85, 90, Staby Church, 100 91. 95 Stade, 27 Ruth's Kirke, 81 Stadllfjord, 100 Ry, 86 Stamps, 6 INDEX. Ill STAPPEN. Stappen, bay of, 104 Statistics, 18 Steamers, 5 to Korsor, 39 Steensballe, woods of, 85 Stege, 76 Stenalt, 90 Stevns Klint, 24, -jS Stevnsherred, 77; Storaa Kiver, 99 Store Heddinge, 78 Stooringaard, convent of, 90 Strib, 41, 8j Stromness, loi Stromsoe Island, loj Struensee, 13 Struer, 100 Sundeved, 36 Sundewitt, 36 Svaneke, 82 Svein, king, 33 Svendborg, 39, S3 Svinkloo, chalk hills, 96 Sylt Island, j8 T. Taasinge, island of, 39, 83 Taastrup, station of, 77 Thingvalla, 104 Thirstrupp, 88 Thisted, 92, 95, 97 Thorsager, 87, 89 Thorshavn, 103 Thorvaldsen, 48, 49 , font by, 103 Museum, 50 Thyland, 92 VEMMETOFTE. Tidsvllde, 69 Tindbjerg, 86 Tlnglef Junction, 38 , station of, 40 Tirsbajk, 84 Tender, 38, 40 Tonning, 31. 37 Torrevende rende (brook), 94 Travemtlnde, 24 Treen River, 37 TroUeHerluf, 78' Tversted, inn of, 94 Tycho Brahe, residence of, 64 u. Udleire, 70 Ulderup, 36 Ulstrup, manor of, 90 Vaadesungen, the, or Song of Woe, 99 Vaere River, 70 Valdemarslund, 67 Vallo Castle, 78 Vamdrup, 40 Vanderup, 100 Varde, 99, 100 Vedbaek, village of, 64 Veilby Church, 90 Veile, 84 Fjord, 84 Veileaa River, 85 Veu-hoi, 75 Vemmetofte, convent of, 78 ZETLAND. Veng, monastery of, 86 Venningboad Bay, 39 Vesterbro, suburb of, the home of the poet Ander- sen, 42 Vesterskov, 86 Vestervigkloster, legend of, 97 Viborg, 89, 99 , cathedral of, 99 Vlldmose, the (moor), 95 Vilssund, 98 Visborggaard Manor-house, 90 Vissenbjerg, 84 Voen Church, 92 Voergaard, 92 Voersaa River, 92 Vojens, 40 Volcanoes, 104 Vordingborg, the Goose Tower, 77 Vreilev, convent of, 95 W. Weights, 2 Westerland, 38 Wild fowl, 105 Worsaaes Oe, 76 Wyck, 38 z. Zetland, or Shetland Isles, 102 LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOBD STBEET, AND CHARING CROSS. HANDBOOK FOE, TEAYELLERS IN NORWAY. [^Norway.'] CONTENTS. SECT. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. INTRODUCTOKY INFORMATION. PAGK Routes from England to Norway 2 Money, Measui*es, Weights 3 Passports 4 Modes of Travelling : Inns, Railways, Steamers, Boats, Carrioles, Four-wheeled Carriages 4 Requisites for Travelling, Maps, Carrioles, &c 9 Posting Regulations, Skydts Law, Sending Forbud, Table of Payments for Horses 12 Danish and Norwegian Alphabet, Yocabulaiy, Useful Sentences, &c. 1 9 Season for Travelling, Finest Scenery, Sketching, "Waterfalls . . 29 Angling 32 Shooting 36 Succinct Account of Norway : Fjelds, Fjords, Geology, Climate, Forests, Population 41 Historical Notice 44 Government 52 The People 57 Productive Industry 58 Commerce 62 Literature, &c 63 ROUTES. ^ The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where they are described. ilDUTE PAGE 20. London iK) Christiania .. .. 65 21 i Christiania to Bergen (a) over Ringeriget and the Fille Fjeld, Leirdalsoren [Justedal^ Sogne Fjord'], Gudvcmgen [Voiing Fob], Vossevangen, Har danger Fjord .. .. 75 21 A. From Bergen to the Sogne Fjord, Justedal Glacier, and Hardanger Fjord, by Utnef Eosendal 98 22. Bergen to Christiania (b) by Leirdalsoren, through Hal- lingdal and Hemsedal . . . . 99 23. Christiania to Bergen (c) through Drammen, Kongs- berg, over Tellemarken, and the Hardanger 102 ROUTE pagH 24. Christiania to Hammerfest and the North Cape / AalesUnd ; Christiansund / Levanger* Visit to the Lapps. The Namsen; Loffoden Islandsi Kound the coast by land .. Il4 25. Christiania by Steamboat round the coast to Trondhjem, Ham- merfest, and Vadso in East Finmark .. .. .. .. 14(5 26. Christiania to Trondhjem by Eail to Eidsvold, thence by Steamer over the Miosen Lake to ZiUehammer, through Gudbrandsdalf and over the Dovre Fjeld {SneehcEtten) . . 27. Christiania to Trondhjem, over Ringeriget to Lillehammer 152 169 IV CiONTiiKTS. KODTB PAGE 28. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hurdaleii on the W. side of the Miosen Lake . . ..169 29. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hedemarken on the E. side of the Miosen Lake .. .. 171 1 30. Christiania to Molde, Aalesund, | and Christiansund, over the | Miosen Lake, and through Gudbrandsdalen and Roms- dalen .. .. .. 171 1 31. Christiania to Trondhjem over i Osterdalen, up the Valley of the Glommen, and through i Roraas .. .. .. 175 j 32. Christiania to Trondhjem i through Kongsvinger, and up ' the Valley of the Glommen . . 178 | 33. Trondhjem to Stockholm, through Vserdal and Sunds- vall 1791 EOUTE PAGC 34. Alten to Torned and Hapa- randa (at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia) by River or by Land, in Winter or Sum- mer 181 35. Christiania to Stockholm, through Kongsvinger, Ar- vika, Carlstad, and by the N. of the Wenern Lake (Rail) 190 36. Christiania to Stockholm, by Frederikshald and the S. of the Wenern Lake .. ..191 37. Christiania to Helsingborg, through Gottenburg .. 195 38. Leirdalsoren (in Rte. 21) to Romsdalen (in Rte. 30) over the Sogne Fjeld and Haalan- genFjeld 196 39. Christiania to Hamburg, in Winter 198 NORWAY. INTRODUCT^ORY INFORMATION. 1. Routes from E7igland to Norway. — 2. Money ^ Measures, Weights, — 3. Passports. — 4. Modes of Travelling : Inns, Iiailways,^Steamers, Boats, Carrioles, Four-wheeled Carriages. — 5. Requisites forV^ravelling, Maps, Carrioles, &c. — 6. Posting Regulations, Skydts Law, Sending Forhud, Table of Payments for Horses. — 7. Danish and Norwe- gian Alphabet, Vocabulary, Useful Sentences, &c, — 8. Season for . Travelling, Finest Scenery, Sketching, Waterfalls. — 9. Angling. — 10. Shooting. — 11. Succinct Account of Norway : Fjelds, F'jords, Geology, Climate, Forests, Population. — 12. Historical Notice, — 13. Govern- ment. — 14. The People. — 15. Productive Industry. — 16. Commerce. — 17. Literature, ^c. KOUTES. PAGE 65 Route 20. London to Christiania 21. Christiania to Bergen (a) over Ringeriget and the Fille Fjeld, Leirdalsoren [Justedal, Sogne Fjord], Gudvangen [Voring Fos], Vossevangen, Hardanger Fjord 75 21a. From Bergen to the Sogne Fjord, Justedal Glacier and Hardanger Fjord, by Utne, Rosendal .. .. 98 22. Bergen to Christiania (b) by Leirdalsoren, through Hal- lingdal and Hemsedal . . 99 23. Christiania to Bergen (c) through Drammen, Kongs- herg, over TeUemarlten, and the Hardanger . . . . 102 24. Christiania to Hammerfest and the North Cape ; Aale- sund ; Christiansund ; ie- vanger. Visit to the Lapps. The Namsen ; Loffoden Islands. Round the coast by land 114 25. Christiania by steamboat round the coast to Trond- INorway.'] ROUTE PAGE hjem, Hammerfest, and Yadso in East Finmark 146 26. Christiania to Trondhjem by Rail to Eidsvold, thence by steamer over the Miosen Lake to Lillehammer, through Gudbrandsdalf and over the Dovre Fjeld (Sneehxtten) .. .. 152 27. Christiania to Trondhjem over Ringeriget to Lille- hammer .. .. .. 169 28. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hurdalen on the W. side of the Miosen Lake . . 169 29. Christiania to Trondhjem over Hedemarken on the E. side of the Miosen Lake 171 30. Christiania to Molde, Aale- suiid, and Christiansund, over the Miosen Lake, and through Gudbrandsdalen and Romsdalen .. .. 171 31. Christiania to Trondhjem over Osterdalen, up the Valley of the Glommen, and through Roraas . . 175 2 § 1. EOUTES FROM ENGLAND TO NORWAY. Norway. ROUTE PAGE \ EOTTTE PAGE 32. Christiania to Trondhjem | vika, Oarlstad, and by the through Kongsvinger, and | N. of the "Wenem Lake uptheVaUeyoftheGlom- (Eail.) 190 men .. .. .. 178 36. Christiania to Stockholm, 33. Trondhjem to Stockholm, through Vserdal and Sunds- wall 179 34. Alten to Ibrned and Hapa- randa (at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia) by Eiver or by Land, in "Winter or Summer 181 35. Christiania to Stockholm, through Kongsvinger, Ar- by Frederikshald and the S. of the Wenern Lake .. 191 37. Christiania to Helsingborg, through Gottenburg . . 195 38. Leirdalsoren (in Rte. 21) to Romsdalen (in Rte. 30) over the Sogne Fjeld and Haalangen Fjeld . . . . 196 39. Christiania to Hamburg, in Winter 198 1. — Routes from England to Norway. The access to Norway is now as easy as to any other part of the Continent. Those who dislike the sea, by going to Hamburg and Kiel via Calais or Ostend, Cologne, and Hanover, can limit the actual sea- voyage to a very few hours ; but the quickest and cheapest route is by steamer from Hull to Christiania. a, A steamer leaves Hull every Friday evening, and arrives at Christiania on the following Tuesday, after touching at Christian- sand on the Sunday. h. From Leith to Christiansand ; a good boat once a fortnight in 45 hours, the shortest sea-passage to Norway. c. The steamer North Star goes direct from London (Lower East Smithfield Wharf), every other Friday — to Christiania, touching at Christiansand — returning every alternate Thursday. Fares, 41., 21, 13s; 4:d., and IL 10s. There is likewise a weekly steamer to Christiania from Copenhagen as well as from Kiel, the former touching at Gottenburg, the second at Korsbr in the Great Belt, and at Frederikshavn. All these steamers touch at the intermediate ports in the Christiania Fjord. One of the Hull boats, the " Scandinavian," plies once a month in summer to Bergen or Trondhjem from Christiansand. The Hamburg and Amsterdam boats also touch there, and, weather permitting, meet steamers going westwards round the coast to Bergen, Trondhjem, and Hammerfest, &c. There is also weekly communication by steamer between Hamburg, Christiansand, Bergen, and Trondhjem. A steamer runs from Hull to Bergen every 3 weeks during the summer. Fares, 3Z. 3s, Agents, Messrs. Wilson & Co., Hull. Norway, § 2. money.- — measures. — weights. 3 2. — Money. — Measures. — Weights. Accounts are kept in Specie-Dollars, Marks or Orts, and Skillings. 24 Skillings make 1 Mark, or Ort. 5 Marks 1 Specie-Dollar. There are -s«- gold coins in Norway. The current money is of paper, silver, and copper. The paper is issued by the National Bank, and may be taken with perfect security. It passes current for its full value throughout the country. The notes are as follow : — For 1 specie-dollar, on white paper ; 5, blue ; 10, yellow ; 50, green ; and red, 100. The silver comprises pieces of 1 specie-dollar, ^ do. ; 1 mark, ^ do., or 12 skillings ; and i do., or 6 sk. Most of these are new and hand- some coins ; in addition to these there is abundance of small debased Danish coin still in circulation, which was issued during the war from 1808 to 1814, and which now passes current at a discount, viz. : 4-skilling pieces at 3 skillings, and the 8 skillings at 6. The copper money com- prises pieces of 2, 1, and i sk. All these Danish coins are to be called in, and Norwegian of the same value to be issued. In the S. of Norway the piece of 24 sks. is called a Mark, but in the W. and N. an Ort. The exchange is regulated by the Hamburg quotations. Of late years it has ranged from 4 ds. 40 sks. to 4 ds. 60 sks. for the British pound sterling. The specie-dollar, therefore, for common purposes, may be taken at 4s. Qd. ; including bankers' commission on bills, the latter must always be 'the price calculated upon. The English value of the Norwegian money, therefore, will stand thus : — 8. d. 1 Skilling, about 0^ IMark, or Ort, about lOf 1 Specie-Dollar 4 6 In speaking of dollars, they are called " species," the dollars being dropped. One of the most important requisites to attend to in Norway, when not in a town, is to be amply provided with small money ; for change even for a piece of a few skillings is most difficult to obtain, and if travellers are not prepared with the exact amount they have to pay for horses, &c., they must usually either give more than is due or be involved in much delay and annoyance. Change may generally be ob- tained at the post-offices in the large towns — the banks, however, are the best places, but they are only open for about an hour every morning. The best money to take is the 5 and 1 dollar notes, and coin, from pieces of 1 mark down to those of 2 sks. It is in some parts difficult to change a note above 1 Daler value, so Campbell advises to take 1 Daler notes in preference to larger. B 2 4z § 3. PASSPORTS.— § 4. MODES OF TRAVELLING. Norway. The Danisli paper and silver dollars pass current in Christiania (but not in the interior) for their full value; the same description of Norwegian money will not be taken in Sweden or Denmark, except at a loss of 3 or 4 sks. each sp.-doUar. Swedish paper will not be taken in Norway. Measures. — 12 inches make 1 foot, and 2 feet 1 ell. The Norsk foot is equal to 1-029 English. The Norsk mile is 12,320 Eng. yards, or 7^ Eng. miles. In superficial measure, by the term " a tonde of hard corn " is meant as much land as can be sown with 1 barrel or tonde of rye, 1 of barley, and 2 of oats. The land measure is the " Tondeland," which is 100 square Norwegian ells ; this comes near to an English acre. The fourth part of a Tondeland, or 50 square ells, is called a " Maal Jord." * 16 Norwegian square feet will make as nearly as possible 17 English square feet. Weights. — 2 Lods make 1 Unze. 8 Unzes 1 Mark. 2 Marks 1 Skaalpund.f 100 Skaalpund8 1 Centner. 12 Skaalpunds .. ... .. 1 Bismerpund. 3 Bismerpunds 1 Vog. 16 Skaalpunds 1 Lispund. 20 Lispunds .1 Skippund. In the S. of Norway the Skippund, Lispund, Bismerpund, and Skaal- pund are used. In the W. and N. the Vog, Bismerpund, and Skaalpund. 3. — Passports. Passports are not required ; but any one visiting Norway, and in* tending to return through any part of the Continent to England, should be provided with a Foreign Office passport, vise by the Nor- wegian and Swedish Minister, or Consul. 4. — Modes of Travelling. — Inns, Eailways, Steamers, Boats, Carrioles, Four-wheeled Carriages. All travellers in Norway must be prepared for some inconvenience and discomfort, even on the main roads, and for a great amount of dirt, and sometimes, though rarely now-a-days, even of hunger, unless they carry their own provisions, on the by-roads, in the remote parts of Norway. Modes of Travelling. — The modes of travelling in Norway have • 4 Maals equivalent to an acre. f f lOOSkaalpunds Norsk are equal to about llOlbs. Eng. avoirdupois, or 10 per cent. more. Norway, § 4. modes of travelling. — inns. 6 greatly improved of late years, and on some of the principal inland lakes steamers regularly ply, viz. on the Miosen Lake, on the Oiern Lake, on the Eandsfjord, on Storsoen, on the Nordsoe, and on the Bandagsvand. On the Miosen at the northern terminus of the rly. from Christiania to Eidsvold, 2 steamers run every week-day to Lillehammer, at the N, extremity of the lake, touching at some of the principal places en route, so that it is possible to reach Gudbrandsdal, a distance of 133 Eng. miles from Christiania, within the day, at an expense, including the rly. and steamer fares (1st class), of rather less than 2^ sp.-d., about lis. English. Norway is capital ground for a pedestrian tour.* The usual mode of traversing the land routes is, however, by posting, which is admirably arranged to suit the wants and convenience of the people. Calculating the dollar at 4s. 6c?. Eng., the average cost of posting per English mile for each horse will be about Zd, from " Fast stations," and 2d, when not from a " Fast station." Throughout the country there are station- houses erected at certain distances upon the roads, and the distance between each forms a stage. It is only at the Fast stations that regular post-horses are kept, and this arrangement is now very generally introduced on the main roads. Where it is not the case, the farmers (Bonder) in the district are obliged by law to provide horses in turn ; and as these have frequently to be brought from a distance, it is usual, in order to avoid detention, to send a "Forbud" (avant-courier) beforehand, who carries with him any luggage the traveller may not have room for. The " forbud-seddel " or note may be sent by post. The manner of sending Forbud is fully explained further on, § 6. It consists in forwarding a notice to each station where horses will be wanted, stating the day and hour of the traveller's intended arrival. In a few places where bridges have been erected a toll is payable until the expense has been repaid. Turnpikes there are none. The roads are all kept in repair by the adjoining landowners. Inns. — In Christiania there are several hotels. The Victoria, the Hotel du Nord and " Scandinavie " are considered the best. In Trond- hjem there is also tolerable accommodation at the Hotels d'Angle- terre and Bellevue, also at Lillehammer. The inn at Aak in Eomsdal is deservedly commended, that at Eidfjord is comfortable. Many of the Station Inns are very comfortable, and, except in rare instances, can always offer wholesome food, though not always meat. The Norwegian innkeepers are an independent class, and by no means so obsequious as those of some other countries ; while perfectly civil, they do not readily • See W. M. Williams's agreeable volume, Through Norway with a KnapsacTc, 1859, 6 § 4. INNS. — RAILWAYS. — STEAMERS. NoVWay. yield attention to travellers who give themselves airs : they expect polite treatment, and will bestow it in return. The Station-houses are the inns of the country. The proprietors are small farmers, or small country traders (Landhandlers) : they are bound to find travellers with beds and food at prices fixed by a tariff in each district, and which is upon the most moderate scale. On the main roads, and at all the larger stations, if a proper selection be made, it is generally possible to get into good quarters, with clean beds, every night ; and a tolerably good and warm meal may be obtained, if ordered beforehand by the Forbud : but when travellers deviate from the main roads, it is prudent to take some portable provisions, such as biscuits, portable soup, and perhaps an uncooked ham, for such emergencies. The lake and river Trout are a great delicacy, obtainable almost everywhere, and duly appreciated by hungry travellers. Smoked salmon is a prevalent provision. Fladbrod is a wheaten cake, resembling oat cake, and compared by one English traveller to the bottom of a hat-box, when the paper is stripped off. Good coffee, milk, cream, and black rye-bread, and in the season straw- berries (Jordbasr) and molteberries (Moltebasr), Buhus chamcemorus, may be generally obtained everywhere. Railways. — There are now open lines from Christiania to Eidsvold, about 42 English miles; Christiania by Kongsvinger and Arvika in Sweden, to Stockholm, about 400 English miles. From Drammen about 42 English miles ; Hamar to Grundsaet, about 22^ English miles ; to the Randsfjord, Trondhjem to Storen, about 47 English miles. Steamers. — As a general rule, berths should be secured as soon as possible. The sea-going steamers are described above, and the period of their departure and arrival will be explained hereafter. Besides these, there are now numerous steamers plying on the inland lakes. Between Christiania and Trondhjem there is a steamer each way nearly every day, as well as a weekly steamer along the coast from Christiania to Christiansand, Bergen, Trondhjem, Tromsbe, and Hammerfest, touching at all the intermediate stations ; also from Bergen to Stavanger. Another steamer runs from Hammerfest to Yardbe and Vadsoe at the entrance of the White Sea every fortnight, thus completely encircling Norway by steam communication. From Christiania to Christiansand there are steamers 3 times a week, and from Christiania to the different towns and ports in the Christiania Fjord 2, and sometimes 3 steamers daily. The fares on board all these vessels are low ; the cuisine and wine good, and very reasonable. The coasting steamers are generally much crowded during the summer. They are small, as the shallowness of the water in the passages they have to navigate between the islands will Norway. § 4. steamers. — boats. — carrioles. 7 not allow of vessels of a larger draught ; but they all take carriages, the freight of which is, for 4 wheels equal to one and a half ch. cabin fare ; for 2 wheels, half that sum. The fares are charged, Chief Cabin, 15 sk. (about 7c?. English) per Norsk sea mile, 4 English, with a deduction of 12 sk. for every 20 sea m. ; and also of 25 per cent, upon the total amount of the fare where two or more persons are travelling together ; but the latter deduction is confined to husbands and wives, parents and children. Fore cabin, 10 sk. per Norsk sea m., and no deduction allowed. As the days become shorter towards the end of the season, alterations are obliged to be made in the times of arrival and departure of some of the steamers. As a general rule, therefore, before starting to join a steamboat in Norway, and particularly on the West Coast, care should be taken to enquire up to what time the printed lists issued by the Government may be relied upon. They cease running in the winter. Inland Steamers run on the Miosen ; Tyri and Hosfjord ; Kroderen ; Randsfjord, and probably on Tinsoen ; on Nordsoen and Hitterdals Yand, in Lower Tellemarken ; and Bandags Vand, in Upper Tellemarken ; and Storsben in Osterdal. Steamers also run on the following fjords: — Between Bergen and Bolstadoren, on the Sogne Fjord, to all the prin- cipal places; also on the Hardanger, Nord, Sond, Romsdal, Stor, Surendal, Sundal, and Hevne Fjords. The traveller is particularly advised to make every enquiry concerning their routes, before leaving for the interior. Boats. — Formerly the only means of travelling along the West and Northern Coast was in open boats, and though steamers have in a great measure superseded this mode of travelling, regular stations, under the management of regular station-masters (Skydskaffer) still exist, where boats may be hired at fixed rates, in which carrioles and other light vehicles may be easily transported. The charges are regulated by a tariff (see § 6). The whole of the West of Norway is so deeply indented by fjords of vast extent that the water stages requisite to connect the road along it (Route 24) are very numerous ; and it is the same with respect to the roads from Christiania to Bergen, Aalesund, Molde, &c. The boatmen are very careful, obliging, and trustworthy. Carrioles are the most convenient carriages for travelling in Norway, and travellers will do well not to encumber themselves with any other. The carriole (carjol) is the carriage of the country, being admirably adapted to it from its lightness and simplicity of construction, which render it transportable with ease to and from boats or steamers. It some- what resembles the Italian carricola, and is usually built without springs. The shafts are long and elastic, the ends are fixed to the axletree, and the seat (which will only hold one person) is placed well forward, and, 8 § 4. CARRIOLES. — CARRIAGES. NoTWay, by cross pieces, rests upon the shafts, the elasticity of which serves instead of springs, and prevents the occupant being jolted, except when the roads are very bad. The legs are brought nearly to a horizontal position, so that in descending the steepest hill there is no inconvenience, nor the possibility of being thrown out, in the event of the horse falling. A board is fixed upon the axletree to carry a trunk, &c., and there the man to whom the horse belongs seats himself. The trunk should be fitted with long straps running through eyes to attach it to the board. The harness is of the most simple construction, and so contrived as to fit any of the small horses which are met with. These horses are generally so docile that a child may drive them with perfect safety, if they be not overladen. They are matchless for their sureness of foot, in proof of which a broken knee is very rarely seen. In summer their only food is grass, but their powers of endurance are very great. The cost of a new carriole, without springs, is about SI. ; and with them, 91. A set of new harness costs about 45s. more. At times carrioles and harness may be met with second-hand, and of course cheaper, but great caution should be used to see that they are not patched up for sale. The best will always be found the cheapest in the end. A long journey made rapidly in a carriole without springs will be found very fatiguing. Suggestions are given under the head of " Eequisites for Travelling " as to fitting up a carriole. Ladies accustomed to driving would do well to adopt the carriole, and avoid the delay and encumbrance attendant on travelling in any other vehicle. A new carriole is no doubt a great saving of fatigue. The advice here given has been followed with perfect success by many English ladies, not afraid of holding the reins ; but the comfort and convenience of a carriole for a lady was first made manifest by Lady Di Beauclerc, whose personal experiences have been given to the world in the charming little volume, A Summer and Winter in Norway, third edition, 1868. Male travellers not anxious to make a display (with ladies it is different) will find carrioles for hire at every station — often shabby ones, but strong. They will thus save themselves the cost and trouble of shipping and unshipping the carriole at the water stages, and need not return to Christiania to dispose of their vehicles finally. Ladies should bear in mind that carriole travelling involves constant exposure to the weather ; affording no protection from rain in a climate proverbially rainy, so that waterproof cloaks and wrappers and hats are indispensable. The rate of travelling is one Norsk mile, = 7 English miles, an hour ; 50 m. Eng. is a good day's journey, including stoppages. Four-wheeled Carriages. — Very light four-wheeled carriages may now Norway, § 5. requisites for travelling. 9 be used safely on all the main roads of Norway, but on these only. No one can fail to observe the good engineering and striking proofs of the progress that has been made in improving the roads. Hollows have been filled up, hills cut down, and roads scarped out- of the face of the rock, where formerly nothing much better than horse-tracks existed. The road along the valley of the Driva from Kongsvold to Rise (Rte. 26) is a magnificent specimen of Norwegian engineering; and other improvements are still in progress all through the country, the Govern- ment applying no less than 225,000 dollars annually to that purpose. The finest scenery is in the West, which is the most mountainous. There, also, the horses — which in other parts are small — degenerate into mere ponies, and are unaccustomed to draw any very heavy carriage, having neither the power nor habit of holding it back in descending steep hills. For these reasons it may be said that the only danger of travelling in Norway is that of using or loading a carriage beyond the strength of the horses, than which nothing can be more dangerous or more cruel. It is also a most hazardous and inconvenient affair to get a heavy carriage across any of the water stations. See Christiania, as to the cost of hire of such a phaeton as that we have described. Particular attention should be paid as to the mode of fitting up these carriages. 5. — Requisites for Travelling. — Maps, — Carrioles, etc. Small Money. — Provide an ample supply, as before recommended, and a leather bag to carry small coin. Maps. — By far the best is Professor P. A. Munch's Veihart over Norge, in 2 sheets, which can be obtained at Christiania from Capellen, the publisher, or at Trondhjem. It is very minute and accurate, and for pedestrians crossing mountains, &c., is the only one to be trusted ; price for the South of Norway, 5 sp.-d. Waligorski's and Wergeland's, pub- lished at Christiania in 1846, is cheaper, but is little better than a postal chart, giving none of the varied features of the country. Single houses, glaciers, churches, and mountains especially, are strongly marked in Professor Munch's Map. Forbud papers. — Printed forms in blank may be purchased in all the towns, and a supply should be taken. Writing materials should not be forgotten, and a pocket compass. Carrioles are so constructed that in the body there is only room beneath the seat for a winch, hammer, coil of rope, some string, a gimlet, and a few straps ; all of which should have their place there, and be secured by a lock. The apron should be long enough to button over the seat, so as to keep it dry during the night, when it is mostly left without shelter, " lock-up coach-houses " beinq; rare in Norway. I'he B 3 10 § 5. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. NoTWay, Norwegian carries his provision-box between his legs in the carriole : and if not too large, there is just room for the feet to rest beyond it. The Norwegian provision-boxes are called " tine," or " lobe," and are very useful. With a little arrangement the carriole may be made com- fortable, and capable of carrying all that is requisite for a journey. Behind, the portmanteau, or box, can be strapped, and for that purpose leather eyes should be fastened on beneath to the board and the straps passed through them, which prevents shifting. The Norwegians gene- rally use a box of the dimensions described under § 8 of the * General Introduction,' and covered with skin, or painted, to keep out wet. Upon this the peasant to whom the horse belongs fastens his sack of hay, and seats himself as best he can. A gun-case had better be slung under the body of the carriole. Fishing-rods should be carried in a solid leather case, and lashed fore and aft to the shafts ; or be slung in loops from the body and the dashing-board. Saddle-bags, made upon the plan sug- gested under § 8, or two large, stout, leather pockets, one to be fastened on either side of the body, will be found a great comfort. They should be secured upon their upper sides by two very stout straps well screwed (not nailed) to the frame of the seat inside, and extending over the sides ; the buckles to be on the bags or pockets. The lower sides should be buckled to straps screwed to the bottom of the carriole, which keep the bags firmly in their place. The pocket on the right may be set apart for maps, forbud papers, guide-book, list of stations at which you have ordered horses, &c. &c. ; and that on the left to provisions, which can be easily and effectually protected from sun and rain by any- thing thrown over the bag. To the outside of the dashing-board a case for 4 bottles of wine may be strapped, and to the inside a large leathern pocket to hold the pea-jacket and mackintosh. The pleasure of a tour in Norway so much depends on having as little baggage as possible, and that little comfortably arranged before starting, that the time occupied in having a carriole fitted up accordingly will be amply repaid. Great care must be taken to pack everything which is to be strapped at the back of your carriole as tightly as possible, as the best preventive against the constant friction to which it will be exposed from the absence of springs, which in every description |"of carriole are used for the body alone. If travelling with your own horse, by all means take a spare set of shoes and a supply of nails. A knife, fork, and spoon, a tin box for salt, and some mustard should be taken. Meat, white bread, and biscuits, are rarely met with in Norway, save in the towns and at a few of the best stations ; a brisk look-out should therefore be kept for provender, and no opportunity lost of replenishing the provision-box. Preserved soup, and an uncooked ham or piece of bacon to be fried in slices, are the most portable forms of meat. Liebig's Ex- Norway, § 5. requisites for travelling. 11 tract of Meat is an excellent thing to take. Tea had better be taken from England, though good can now be obtained in the chief cities of Norway. It can be carried very conveniently in a bottle in the bottle- case. A few wax candles had better be taken, if travelling after August : nothing but tallow dips are to be had at the stations. Capital coffee, milk, sugar, and eggs, and generally rye-bread or oatmeal-cake (Jtadhrod), fish, or bacon, are met with at most of the stations. Vegeta- bles are unknown, except potatoes, and those only at the end of July. Sour milk, eaten with a little sugar and oat-cake, is dehcious, and a favourite Scandinavian dish. But the staple and most nutritious food of the peasants, and which may be obtained in every hovel in Norway and Sweden, is porridge (grod). They prepare it very carefully and admir- ably, and it is a capital dish to fall back upon when nothing better can be obtained. A dog may be carried in a net or bag slung under the carriole, upon the Italian plan. It is always the safest way to carry a dog in that manner, in case of his being attacked by a wolf, for with that animal a dog is an irresistible temptation. Mr. Bennett, an Englishman, residing at No. 17, Store Strandgade, has for many years fitted out most of the English travellers with carrioles, &c. Travellers, by writing to him from England, or by telegraphing from Christiansand, on the arrival of the steamer there, may get everything provided for them ready for their departure on the morning after their arrival in Christiania. Phaetons of the lightest description, as before observed, are the only four-wheeled carriages which can with either comfort or safety be used in Norway. If a servant be taken, he drives, and the second seat in front is occupied by the person who owns the horses. The only space for luggage is, therefore, under the front and back seats. Nothing above 12 inches high will go under them. If intending to return to Christiania, the best plan is to leave everything there except what may be requisite for the time you intend to be absent. Expanding portmanteaus, not exceeding 22 inches long by 14 wide and 12 deep, or cases of sheepskin or fustian mackintosh of that size, will be found the most convenient to stow away. Bags or pockets fixed on each side of the back seat (similar to those recommended for carrioles) are a great convenience. Or provisions can be taken in a basket, which should be covered with oilskin to keep out dust and rain. A case for 4 bottles of wine may be fastened to the dashing-board. Slings should be fixed at the back of the front seat for an umbrella. A strong fork must be fixed at the back of the carriage to stay it while the horses take breath on going up hill ; and two stout drags for the wheels must not be omitted. The harness should have hreeching ; and the whole should be carefully looked over and examined, to see that it is in good^repair, particularly the reins. A hammer. 12 § 6. HIRE OF HOESES, BOATS, ETC. Norway, winch, rope, &c., should be taken, as in a carriole. The natives do not travel much in summer, and, when they do, it is almost entirely by car- riole, and thence the ignorance which prevails even in Chris tiania as to what is essential for safety in travelling with a 4- wheeled carriage. We cannot too strongly caution those who value their lives not to venture into the interior with any carriage of a heavier description than a phaeton, or unprovided with shafts, fork, drags, and strong harness. Luggage Cart — Those who have too much baggage to take with them had better purchase a little spring cart for it to be used by the Forbud (see weight allowed, at p. 13). If this be not done, the common carts without springs, kept at the stations, must be used, and luggage becomes much injured by the repeated changes on the road and jolting. It is well to take a piece of tarpaulin, which can be procured from Mr. Bennett. 6. — Posting Kegulations, Skydts Law, Sending Forbud, Table of Payments for Horses. TABLE OF RATES FOR HORSES, BOATS, ETC., PER NORSK MILE, EQUAL TO 7 ENGLISH MILES. LAND. WATEK. •g fl h Is ill From Static Town Hi 2l s 11 Skillings. Skillings. Skillings. Skillings. Skillings. Skillings. For one horse . . 48 86 36 24 Carriole with harness 6 6 4 4 Two-horse cart with double harness . . 6 6 6 6 One-horse cart with single harness . . 3 3 3 3 Saddle with bridle. or long sleigh with harness 2 2 2 2 Harness for leaders up and down hill. or pack-saddle . . 1 1 1 1 Each man . . . . 24 20 Each 4-oared boat . . , , 8 8 „ 6 ditto .. 12 12 „ 8 ditto .. , , 24 24 „ 10 ditto .. 32 32 Norway. § 6. weight of luggage. — skydts law. 13 If two persons post with the same vehicle with one horse, I5 fare is charged. The above fares for boats are for such as are constructed for sailing and rowing, for row-boats only the charge is one-half less. Independent of the above rates, the post-master is entitled to 4 skillings for each horse or 2 skillings for each boatman ; this is termed " tilsigelse," and is allowed him as his remuneration for the trouble of ordering them for the traveller, and he is entitled to the same fee of 2 skillings for each 8 or 10 oared boat, but at fast stations no tilsigelse is paid. Three people and the post-boy can travel with two horses, if the carriage be not too cumbersome. Luggage on a cart with 2 horses in the summer, or on a sleigh in the winter, luggage to the extent of 640 skaalpunds may be carried.* On a cart with one horse, 320 lbs. On a carriole, chaise, cart, or sleigh, with one person, 64 lbs. But if two persons travel with one horse, they are only allowed to carry 16 lbs. The load of a horse with a pack-saddle is 192 lbs. Persons hiring boats may load them with as many people or goods as they can safely carry without any extra charge. Although the law fixes the weight of luggage as above stated, yet, unless the traveller has imprudently encumbered himself with a very undue quantity, and attempts to overload the horse or vehicle, no ques- tion as to the exact weight is ever mooted. Skydts Law. — The following is an abstract of the act passed by the Storthing of 1845. At stations which are not fast, if the Forbud arrives 3 hours before the time at which the horses or boatmen are required to be at the station, and if 'they are not there when the traveller arrives, the owner of the horses or the post-master is fined one specie-dollar for each horse or boatman ; and when the traveller does not arrive at the time he has stipulated, but detains the horses or boatmen beyond one hour, he has to pay one quarter of the rate for a mile, for each horse or boatman, as waiting money, and the post-master can refuse to suppl}^ him until this be paid. If the traveller does not arrive within 3 hours of the time he has appointed, the owner of the horses is not bound to wait any longer, and has a right to claim, as detention-money, one-half of the rate for a mile for each horse, and each boatman may claim a similar payment. If the traveller's late arrival has been caused by his having been detained at one of the previous stations, and he brings a certificate to that effect, which the post-master, under a penalty of 3 dollars, cannot refuse to give him, he is not bound to pay any detention-money, but * See Norsk weights, $ 2. 14 § 6. THE DAY-BOOK. Norway, the party who caused the delay has to pay it. If detained in consequence of the weather, or of any accident which prevented his proceeding, and which is proved by the certificate of the post-master, he is not bound to pay this charge. At stations which are not fast, and to which no Forbud has been sent, if the horses are i of a mile, i a mile, or a mile distant from the station, the traveller must wait respectively one, two, and three hours ; but should he be detained beyond that time, unless through some unforeseen hindrance, the post-master, or owner of the horses, is subject to a fine of I a dollar for every additional hour that the traveller is detained. When the traveller does not drive himself, but leaves the reins to the post-boy, no responsibility with regard to the horse rests on him, but if he drives himself, and the horse is ill-used or driven beyond its strength, and the post-boy complains, the post-master at the next station, two other men being called in to confirm his opinion, is to ascertain the extent of the injury done to the horse, and this the traveller is bound to pay ; and until he does so, the post-master is authorised to refuse to provide him. with horses. This money is to be deposited with the post-master for 4 weeks, so that the traveller can appeal against his decision and have the case more fully investigated. Travellers have to pay all tolls. Where there are no post-stations, a special agreement must be made with the owners of the horses. In towns, the horses are to meet the traveller at any spot which he shall fix upon, and in the country at any place not above i of a mile from the station ; beyond that distance he must pay the usual mileage rate. Drivers are always required to keep on the right side of the road, and not to occupy more than half of it ; any offence against this regulation subjects the offending party to a penalty of 1 specie- dollar. The Day -booh (Dagbog).— At every station a book is kept, in which the traveller enters his name, destination, the number of horses he uses, and states any complaints he may have to make against the post-master, post-boy, or others ; these books are periodically inspected by the autho- rities, the complaints stated in them are enquired into, and the accused parties, if they are found to have acted improperly, are punished. Should the post-master refuse to produce this book, he is liable to a fine of half a specie-dollar. To this book are always attached the posting regulations, and the distances to the adjoining stations. At every post station the gisestgiver or landlord is bound to have, and produce for inspection if required, a table of rates and charges of the different articles of food and liquors, which rates are fixed by the authorities ; but the charges are generally so moderate that few travellers appeal to this § 6. POSTING TABLE FOB BOATS. 15 1 OT •IPS pn^ ^^oa paiBO-8 q^iAv uai\[ ^^ a OOCOOCOCDCOCD 1-1 rH (M rH (N i-H Or-HCqCNCOTiHriHO OOOOOOOi-H •ireg puB ;Boa eg- CD rH rH i—l T— 1 Or-lrH(N(MC0C0'* OOOOOOOO •ireg puB -j^og a iHiN -r-lOQ0C0i-IO ri rH-* tH-lrHiH0q(M00"»tHlOr-ICT^lrHTf^1-lC0r^Q0 rH(N .H rH OOOTHr-ljHCH rH(M rH OOiHiHrHCMCqCO OOOOOOOO "ireg puB !^^og p9i«o-t q:HAi n9iv[ Z a COCOCD(MOOO rH rH rH iH OOOrHiHi— lrHCaa Grorud anmobeg t)crt)eb om at f)au Aftensmad, 09 Sengo for tre ^erfoner fcerbig oeb min 2Cn!omjl. 2C. 95. Translation. The Master of the Grorud Station is hereby requested to have Sujpjper and Beds* ready for 3 persons on my arrival. A. B. Should the traveller be kept waiting for horses beyond the time he has ordered them, the following is the proper form of entry to be made in the Day-book kept at the station. If not written in Norsk, it will not be attended to ; and it should not be made except in an extreme case, as it subjects the party complained of to a penalty, and in many places the peasants have to come from long distances to the stations. Form of Entry in Day-hooh, Unbertegnebc cr blcocn opfjolbt :p(xci Utit ©!i)b6f!ifte tjentcnbe xxi^a ^efte/ fom ei anfom forenb Simer cftcr ben^ ^pao, gorbub6[cbbelen angione ^x'i). %. S5. Translation, The undersigned has been detained at this Station, waiting for horses, which did not arrive until two hours f after the time specified on the Forbud paper. A.B. It sometimes happens that persons change their plans, and take another road after having sent off their Forbud papers, and horses are ordered as requested. Whenever this occurs, the forfeit money due to the owners of the horses, and also to the station-masters for ordering them, should be carefully paid, which may be done without any difficulty at the next post-office arrived at in any of the towns. Persons are not only legally liable, and will be made to pay these sums if they can be traced, but it * Breakfast, /rofcosf. Dinner, middagsmad. • t Or whatever the time may have been. t%€UJK 18 § 6. POSTING TABLE FOR HORSES. Norway, is grossly unjust and dishonourable to evade the payment. Except at fast stations, the horses have often to be sent for several English miles from the station ; besides which, when required during the hay season, the service of both men and horses is of so much more value at home, that is usually a loss to the farmer even when paid the full charge allowed by law. In such a country as Norway, the wrongful act of a traveller is not only prejudicial to his own reputation, but also to those who may follow him, and particularly to his own countrymen. POSTING TABLE FOR HORSES.* Fast Stations in the Country, and Stations not Fast in Towns. Stations not Fast in the Country. Fast Stations in Towns. oJ . * • 12 14 i M 13J 16| i i » •• 9 15? 18 21 h „ 18 21^ 12 21 2 ?> ♦• 1 1 3 22| 1 3 g » •• 15 2QI g »» • • 1 6 1 1^ J 'i :, 1 3 1 8| 1 „ •• 18 31J ^ „ •• 1 12 1 1 ^ I " 1 7i 1 14 is »> • • 21 36f i „ ..■ 1 18 2 1 » 1 12 1 19 |i „.. 1 42 1 „ .. 2 2 With the assistance of the above tables and previous information, tl charges for horses, and also for boatmen and boats, may be readil calculated. The peasants are slow in calculating, but generally honej^ in their demands. Where any difference arises as to payment, th* station-master should be applied to, and whatever he states to be the proper sum to be paid may be relied upon as correct. The peasants who accompany the horses are not entitled to anything, but it is customary to pay them a gratuity (drikke-penge) at the rate of about 6 sk. per mile. The Norwegians are fond of their horses, and it both pains and irritates them extremely to see their favourites ill- used or driven faster than the usual carriole rate of one Norsk mile an hour, even when the roads are <^ood. * At all stations that are not " fast," 4 sk. per horse must be paid to the station-master. Norway, § 8. scenery and sketching. 29 How much do we owe you ? What does this cost ? It is very dear. Put the horse to. It is far too much. Give me the bill. "What have we to pay ? The bill is reasonable. Here is your money. The bill is too much. I will not pay more than 4 marks. Svor meget ere vi Bern skyldige ? Hvad Tcoster den ? Det er meget dynt, Sjpsende for. Det er alt formeget. Giv mig Regningen, Hvad har vi at hetale ? Regningen er ganslce hillig. Her ere Pengene. Regningen er for Mi. Jeg vil ikhe hetale mere end 4 Marh. N.B. — Throughout Scandinavia, where the rank of a gentleman is not accurately known, in directing a letter to him, it is usual to write in capital letters, S. T. (salvo titulo) over his name, to guard against any offence being taken in omitting or mis-stating his title. I 8. SEASON FOR TRAVELLINa — FINEST SCENERY — SKETCHING. Mr. John Campbell gives the following advice * : — " Of all months, July is the pleasantest for travellers in Norway, generally having a greater number of fine warm days in it than any other. June and August are also good ; although early in June the weather is often very chilly, and to- wards the middle of August it often breaks and remains long unsettled. After August the days draw in rapidly ; nevertheless tourists may re- main, without inconvenience from the climate, another month or more. June and July have naturally an advantage in the length of daylight." The grandest scenery in Norway is about that great chain of moun- tains which runs from N. to S. nearly throughout the whole country. The most select portions, as well as those most attainable, may be grouped as follows, according to the most convenient centres or head- quarters for excursions : — 1. Christiania and its Fjord ; Tyri Fjord; Ringeriget. 2. Romsdal and its Fjord, approachable from Bergen and Molde, for which Aak and Vaeblingsnaesset are good headquarters. 3. N. of Bergen the Sogne Fjo7'd, with its branches Aurlands Fjord and the unsurpassable Nero Fjord, and the Justedal Glaciers. Quarters at Bergen, Gudvangen, and Vossevangen. Thence to 4. S. of Bergen, the Hardanqer Fjord and its branch Stor Fjorde, &c., and its cataracts the Voring Fos, Skeggedals Fos, and its glaciers of Folge Fond. Bergen, Vassevangen, Gudvangen, and Odde, are good quarters for exploring. , The grandest scenery lies to the S. of Bergen and Molde. Northern Norway can display striking mountain forms in the coast scenery of the Loffoden Isles, with their peaks and aiguilles ; but that * Travelling in Norway, by John R. Campbell, published in the Alpine Journal, No. 2t, May, 1868. 30 § 8. SCENERY AND SKETOHING. NoTWay. about Hammerfest and North Cape is tame, the chief recompense for visiting them being the sight of the midnight sun. There is also the ancient town of Trondhjem with its cathedral, but the voyage thence to North Cape and back occupies a fortnight with only one day's halt at Hammerfest. N.B. — In all this region the plague of wos^^^^^oes prevails to an extent that makes life misery to the uninitiated. It must not be supposed that the real grandeur of Norwegian scenery can be explored in a steam voyage round its iron-bound coast, and up the larger but monotonous arms of the sea. The real magnificence of Norway lies in its minor fjords, compared wdth which the larger fjords are tame. Some of the most attractive and peculiar scenery of Norway is to be found in that branch of the Sogne Fjord which runs up to Gud- vangen ; there the character of nature is awful. The borders of the narrow Nero Fjord are precipices descending sheer into the water 4000 feet, streaming with waterfalls and bare of herbage. The Bomsdal valley and Fjord, stretching from Molde, and the Stor Fjord, openini; out from Aalesund, are far more pleasing, and distinguished by th. serrated outline of the surrounding mountain ridges. The Stor Fjord boasts of actual aiguilles. According to Mr. Campbell — " The best scenery in Norway is found in patches here and there. These are in many cases separated, especially for travellers who follow the road, by intervals comparatively tamr. Most of the grand valleys lie W. of Gudbrandsdalen , If you take .^ map and draw lines from the Lom (nearly in the centre of the country) to Bergen and Molde, the space enclosed between these lines and the coast will be found to contain most of the finest glens. There are neverthe- less other districts, not included in this triangle, well worth visiting, as Tellemarken, Hardanger, Lysefjord, and the scenery along the Arctic coast, 2 days voyage N. of Trondhjem." See § 11. The great waterfalls are the Sarp Fos, at Sarpsborg, Koute 36 ; the Larbro Fos, near Kongsberg, the Kingedals Fos, near Odde, and the Kiukan Fos, Route 23; Skaggedals Yos and the Voring Fos, upon the Hardanger Fjord, and the Mbrhfos on the Aarlands Fjord, Route 21. Sketching. — Norway is still but slightly known to artists or amateurs, though some of its beauties have been illustrated of late years by the pencil and pen of several tourists. Everything requisite for sketching should be taken from England, as the materials to be obtained in Norway for the purpose are very inferior. Artists would do well to provide themselves with a pair of saddle-bags, as horses and guides may be procured throughout the country, and the wildest parts thus be easily yisited. Paper aud sketches should be segur^d in a bag of fustian Norway. § 8. scenery — waterfalls. 31 mackintosh (which is very strong), and, if securely tied at the mouth, may be immersed in water without its penetrating. Winsor and New^ ton's moist water-colours, and their folding seat and easel, will be found particularly convenient. They are not to be had on the spot. La7idscape. — Except a few churches, and some of the peasants' houses in the wildest parts, there are few picturesque buildings in Norway, but the beauties of nature are of the highest order. The atmo- spheric effects in early morning and evening are of wondrous beauty, and peculiar to the North. The depth and gorgeousness of colour during the long twilight which follows the setting of the sun are mar- vellously fine, and give a poetry and charm of the most sublime character. The valleys are usually narrow, very deep, and of great extent, with a lake or river in the bottom. Waterfalls are innumer- able, some among them the finest in Europe ; and the most picturesque are the smaller ones, which are found at the head and upon the sides almost ^11 the valleys. It is in its fjord scenery that Norway is unrivalled. The most pic- turesque forms of mountains are those about Molde, Route 30 ; and between Christian sand and Stavanger, Eoute 24, there is a great variety of foliage and much grandeur in the masses of rock and forms of the mountains which there dip into the sea. Marine. — The whole coast from the mouth of the Christiania Fjord to the N. Cape, Route 24, is rocky and mountainous, and abounds in grand subjects. Neither the towns nor craft are picturesque, but the situation of the former is eminently so in many cases. During summer there is always more fishing and bustle going on upon the S. and S.W. coast than farther N., and upon the whole, it is perhaps the best part of Norway for marine sketching. The belt of islands which runs all up the W. coast abounds in picturesque huts inhabited by the fishermen. Figures and Interiors. — There is a good deal of costume still existing in Norway, and particularly amongst the women. It is mostly to be found in the Bergen, Hardanger, and Tellemarken districts, upon Routes 21 and 23. Some of the old men are highly picturesque ; their long white hair flowing down each side of the face, and surmounted by a faded red worsted cap, shirt collar open, and jacket and waistcoat orna- mented with large silver buttons. In the upper parts of the Hardanger and other fjords upon the W. coast, almost each parish has its own costume. The people are very civil, and easily persuaded to don their gala dresses for the gratification of strangers. Some of the best interiors are also in the Tellemarken and Bergen districts. These are far more picturesque than cleanly. In many cases the principal room is of a rich dark brown, from the wood smoke, and this apartment contains all th^ 32 § 8. S-aiTERS. § 9. angling. Norway. family and most of their property — this is particularly the case amongst the fishermen upon the W. coast at a distance from the towns, as well as amongst the poor in Tellemarken. Cattle. — Norway abounds in admirable subjects of this class. Each farm having its sceter or mountain-hut, the equivalent of the Swiss chalet, but dirty and unpicturesque, being built of stones and turf instead of wood ; hither all the spare stock is sent up during the summer months, and in it the girls in charge of the kine sleep and carry on the dairy operations. When bears are known to be in the neighbourhood, the cattle are driven in at night, and fires lighted for their protection. Nothing can be more picturesque than the subjects at times found at these chalets, when groups of every description of cattle, horses, goats, dogs, &c., and of all ages, are grouped around amidst the rocks. Norway is particularly rich in subjects of winter scenery. At that season all the cattle have been driven in from the hills ; the sledo;e and snow-skates (shier) are in request, and all is life and animation during the short period of daylight. 9. ANGLING. The innumerable lakes and rivers in Norway, almost all of which teem with fish, render it the most attractive country in Europe for a fishing tour. Trout are abundant, and grayling, even in the lakes and streams upon the great mountain plateau, or fields, and salmon in every river where they can get up from the sea. Char, pike, and a variety of other fish are met with in most of the lakes. In the Miosen Lake, near Christiania, Route 26, it is said there are upwards of 20 different varieties of fish. But there is no doubt that salmon-fishing in Norway has deteriorated of late years, and is now very difficult to procure. The fish themselves have diminished in numbers from the more skilful modes of netting employed by the natives, and from the use of the leister, which, though contrary to law, is much practised in some rivers. English anglers, too, have become more numerous, and all the first-rate waters are rented by them upon regular agreements for a term of years, while the natives themselves have learned to flog the waters with bad imitations of English flies. Still, no doubt, tolerable salmon- fishing may yet be obtained, but not by the mere casual traveller, nor unless it is made a special object. That splendid fishing was to be had there is proved by the published accounts of numerous EngUsh gentle- men. Mr. Belton, in his admirable book {Two Summers in Norway), first made known the salmon-fishing to be had in the Namsen and other streams ; and to his experience, and also to Sport in Norway, by Mr. Barnard, we are indebted for some of the following observations. Norway. § 9. angling. 88 Salmon. — The tumultuous rapidity of the Norwegian rivers renders them admirably suited for salmon. " A knowledge of the waters which experience alone can give is needful to insure success in the northern rivers, otherwise days are lost in fishing places where there are no fish. Early in the season the deep pools below the fosses and rapids are best. Later on the fish take to the strongest streams, and in autumn lie above the largest falls and rapids." The two most celebrated streams are the Alten and the JSTamsen, N. of Trondhjem (see Route 24). The Guul, Koute 26, towards Trondhjem ; the Siva, which falls into the upper part of the Lange Fjord, Route 30 ; the Rauma, upon the same Route ; and the Lauven, near Laurvig, Route 24, are also well spoken of. The great Tana River, to the E. of the North Cape (see Route 24), abounds in salmon, but there is no doubt that the take of salmon by nets there has decreased of late years. Many ascribe this decrease to the great number of seals which abound on the shallow banks at the mouth of this river, and which no doubt intercept many of the fish on their pas- sage to fresh water. Still, however, it is a magnificent river, and very heavy fish are to be taken in it. The best fishing-places in it are at Seida Fos, about 40 miles from the mouth ; Kjasriug Fos, and at the mouths of the Valjijok and Levvojok. Any one intending to try it must be prepared for d, rough life. There is no habitable house on the whole length of the river, and a tent and every necessary for camping out must be taken. Mosquitoes swarm. If Tana should turn out a failure, the Pasvig and Neiden, in East Finmark, might be tried, or the Jacob's Elv on the Russian frontier, where no Englishman has probably ever fished. It is about 14 Eng. miles from Yadso, where the steamers stop. The fortnightly steamer from Hammerfest to Vadso calls at Tana mouth, and also near the mouths of the Pasvig and Neiden. None of these three rivers would fish before the beginning of July. We have before stated that salmon are found in all the rivers upon the coast where they can get up, but as most of the streams S. of the Rauma down to the Lauven are comparatively short, and remain in a more or less turbid state till towards the end of summer, such fishing cannot be obtained in them as in the larger streams ; at the same time those who have not been spoiled by the splendid sport offered by the latter, when the waters are in good order, will find ample occupation in the smaller streams, some of which, no doubt, are still unknown to anglers. This is particularly the case with those rivers which fall into the Sogne, Hardanger, and other fjords upon the W. coast, in the midst of some of the grandest scenery in the country, and where excellent general shooting may likewise be had. The great point upon which the success of a fishing expedition to o3 Si § 9. ANGLING. Norway. Norway depends is to hit the proper time for it ; to be neither too early nor too Lite. The fishing season is short, and always later towards the N. All the streams flow from the great range of mountains running from N. to S. There are always two floods every year ; the first in the early part of the summer, caused by the melting of the snow- in the valleys, &c., and the second arising from the breaking up of the ice in the mountain lakes, at a later period ; before the latter has sub- sided, few, if any, good fish will be found in the rivers. Taking the Alten as the most northern great salmon stream on the W. coast, the mountain flood there does not subside before the beginning of July ; and, upon the average, the best season for that river is from the middle of July to the end of August. Farther S. the season is usually a month or fortnight earlier, but, throughout Norway, July and August may be considered the best months for salmon-fishing. The abundance of salmon in the great Norwegian streams may be judged of by the fact that an English gentleman, in the season of 1847, killed 2500 lbs. weight in the Alten in 14 days, his fish averaging from 15 to 35 lbs. each. This is by no means a single instance, many gentlemen having met with equal success, particularly in the Namsen. Evening and early morning will be found the best times for fishing during the height of the season. Though, undoubtedly, the best places on the best rivers are leased from year to year, there are still many opportunities open to the energetic fisherman where fair sport can be obtained. In addition to the rivers already named, we may mention the Eanen and Vefsen rivers in Nordlands Amt (R. 24). Sannsesoen is the nearest station for the Vefsen. In N. Trondhjem Amt the V^erdals Elv, a little north of Levanger, is a likely stream for salmon and trout (R. 24); and splendid fishing may be had at the famed Steenkjser (R. 24). Herr Moe, a merchant, residing at Steenkjser, can give every information. A steamer runs there weekly from Trondhjem. The Orkla Elv (R. 24) is a good river, if it is not leased. Fandrem, Gumdal (a good station), and Langsaster will be found to be the best places. The Nid Elv (R. 26) abounds with fish ; and some sport may occasionally be had in Skaugdals Elv, north-west of Trondhjem, near Uddue, where the steamer stops (R. 26). The Eridsfjord Elv, midway between the Rauma and Sundals Elv (R. 24), is a good river. In 1860, 2569 lbs. of salmon were taken by one rod in 39 days. Most of the fishing on Sundals and Surendals Elv is taken up. The Leirdals Elv (R. 21), Aardals Elv (R. 21), and Aurlands Elv (R. 21) are excellent rivers. The Yosse Elv (R. 21) is a fine salmon river. Good quarters at Bolstadoren ; large fish have been taken here. The fishing near Sta- vanger is poor ; but good snipe shooting may be had in the marshes in Norway, § 9. angling — fishing-tacklb. 36 August. In the neighbourhood of Christiansand some fishing may be had in Topdals Elv (K. 24), and in Torrisdals Elv (K. 24). The fishing belongs to Consul Vildt, a Swiss gentleman in Christiansand, who will probably give permission. Some fair sport may also be had in Enning- dals Elv, near Frederickshald (R. 36). Salmon-fishing is now so much, sought after by our countrymen, and such high prices given, as to render success anything but a certainty to new comers. Trout. — The salmon-fishing in Norway has such attractions for the angler that all the smaller fry have been comparatively neglected, fev/ of the streams and lakes of the interior having been tried, except hastily, by those en route to or from the coast. The smaller streams and lakes will usually be found to contain a greater abundance of fish, and in better condition, than the larger waters. The best fish will invariably be found near the bottom of falls, and especially those above the larger lakes. Even upon the Dovre, and other great fjelds, the trout run to 6 lbs. In all the above-named rivers, first-class trout- fishing may be had. Indeed, there is scarcely a river in the country where trout are not plentiful. In the interior, and eastern parts of the country, the following places can be especially recommended, viz. — Dale and Strsengen, at either end of Bandags Vand (R. 23), Nisser Vand (R. 23), on the road from Arendal to Tellemarken ; Mjbs Vand (R. 21). Good trout-fishing may be had at Honefos (R. 22) ; Yaage Vand and its tributaries (R. 26); Rena Elv (R. 31); Trysil Elv, running out of Famund So. Good grayling fishing may be got at Eidsvold and Minde, in August (R. 26). The watei's of the higher mountains of Central Norway should be avoided until the summer is well advanced. In the S. and lower parts of the country the season for trout-fishing may be considered as com- mencing about the middle of June, and ending with September. Flies^ Bods, &c. — Only inferior tackle is to be obtained in Norway ; it should therefore be taken from England, and be of the very best quality. The salmon killed are so large, in some cases being 40 lbs. weight and upwards, that the strongest lines must be used. No exact directions for flies can be given ; salmon take most unaccountable flies of all sorts and sizes, and of all colours. A general rule may be to fish with large bright flies when the water is heavy, and to diminish in size as the water falls, till, late in the season, small flies on single gut are the only ones which salmon will look at. The fishing-tackle makers in London know the style of flies and patterns generally used. A well-oiled silk line, not less than 120 yards long for the large rivers, will be found preferable to the patent mixture of horsehair and silk. The casting line should be of th§ strongest treble gut, and plaited, 86 § 10. SHOOTING. Norway, not twisted, the reel of ample dimensions and single action, and the gaff of wide curve and firm build. The rods should comprise two for salmon, a stout one not less than 18 feet long, and a second a foot shorter, and lighter, with an extra small joint and spare tops to each of them. For trout flies, decided colours, either gay or dark, are also the best ; and a great variety of colours is not so important as a good assortment of different sizes. Small Irish sea-trout flies kill well, and in the evening or at night white and brown moths. But trout vary so much in their likes and dislikes that it is useless to attempt giving any particular colour the preference. For char, the common red palmer is recommended. Most of the rivers belong to small proprietors located along their banks. Formerly a small gratuity of ten dollars secured the exclusive right of fishing, but now, owing to the competition that has arisen, and from the avidity shown by some of our English fishermen, the prices have risen greatly ; rents varying from lOOZ. up to 500Z. for a river are demanded and paid, and the tenant is allowed only one-fifth of all the fish he catches. Still there are probably rivers at the heads of some of the long-unfrequented fjords which have not been explored and tried. An experienced man has been directed by the Norwegian Govern- ment to visit all the rivers, and, where feasible, institute artificial breeding of salmon. With what success, in a country where running streams are frozen to the bottom for some months in each year, remains to be seen. Besides this, the Storthing passed a law in 1857, prohibiting the use of nets at the mouths of salmon rivers. These measures may, perhaps, have some effect in arresting the sensible decrease that has been perceived in the numbers of the fish taken of late years. Those who will content themselves with trout may still find some sport in Norway. 10. — Shooting. Norway formerly abounded in game and wild beasts; both have somewhat decreased as the population has advanced, but from the mountainous nature of the country, it is always likely to remain one of the best in Europe for wild shooting. Prior to 1845 game was un- protected, and therefore destroyed at all seasons ; but in the Storthing of that year a law was passed for its protection, which has proved very beneficial. It is somewhat the fashion to complain of the general scarcity of all descriptions of game in Scandinavia, but, comparing different accounts, and the supply brought into the markets, there is little doubt that game is far more abundant there than is generally Norway. § 10, shooting. 37 imagined. The general shooting along the western coast is poor ; and, indeed, in any part of Norway, large bags must not be expected. Good shooting has been had in some of the islands off the N.W. coast, but these are mostly leased by Englishmen. Reindeer are met with in all the highest parts of the great mountain range N. of the Fille Fjeld, Ete. 21, up to the N. Cape. Red deer are found in the islands off the coast between Bergen and Trondhjem, and particularly in the large island of Hitterben, near the latter city, Rte. 26. Elk are rare, but have been met with as low down as Toten and Eidsvold, the Northern Terminus of the Railway, but Osterdalen, Rte. 31, is still their favourite resort. Of wild beasts, bears and wolves are killed in all parts of Norway, and occasionally the lynx, and wolverine or glutton. Hares are plentiful. All up the W. coast wild fowl of every descrip- tion abound, and, from being so little disturbed, are easy to get at. N. of Trondhjem they are swarming. In July and August numbers of woodcocks are found about the great fjords upon the W. coast. Snipe also abound in low and swampy places. Besides these and Plover, there are of winged game the Capercailzie (T*wr) ; Blackcock ( CTrAar^e) ; Hazel-hen (Bjerpe) ; Ptarmigan (Fjeld-Bype), only found high up on the mountains ; and Wood-grouse (Skov-Bype). These last afford the best sport. They are generally to be found in dwarf willow, or alder scrub. It is useless to attempt to shoot them without dogs ; no heavy bag can be made with beaters alone. A hardy setter is, perhaps, the best for ryper-shooting. An Irish water-spaniel, perhaps, for duck, and other general shooting. Before the middle of August, ryper are so small and lie so close as to afford no sport. By the middle of September, however, they are wild enough. Partridges are comparatively rare. The capercailzie is found in all the great pine-forests which abound in Norway, the buds of that tree being his favourite food. The blackcock and hazel-hen frequent the numberless valleys where the spruce fir (Pinus ahies) abounds ; and ptarmigan keep to the plateau of the great mountain range, particularly those N. of Trondhjem. Amongst the best places to select for general shooting (including hears) are the Fille Fjeld, and the upper parts of the Sogne Fjord, and Hardanger Fjord, Rte. 21 ; Romsdalen, Rte. 30 ; the Dovre Fjeld, Rte. 26 ; the mountains upon the Swedish frontier, Rte. 33 ; and on many of the islands along the coast. Tolerable quarters may be obtained at most of these places. The stations upon the Fille Fjeld and Dovre Fjeld are amongst the best in Norway. The general shooting in Norway has of late years deteriorated, owing partly, no doubt, to the increased facilities of com- munication with the large towns, where the peasants find a ready market for what they trap or shoot. Rifle-shooting, too, is greatly in 38 § 10. SHOOTING. Norway. vogue in the country, and the Bonder may now be seen hy scores, scouring the fjelds in all directions, even in the most remote corners. For elk-shooting, the neighbourhood of Kongsvinger, Kte. 35, is the best in Norway ; while for reindeer, the fjelds between Gudbrandsdal, Yalders, and Bergen Stift, by the Bygdin and Gjendin Lakes, and on the Lassjo and Romsdal Fjelds, large herds may be found the whole year round. On the Rundene and Dovre Fjeld, between Hallingdal and Leirdal, herds of 300 to 1000 are frequently seen. Those who make shooting a principal object of their tour must take dogs with them, if they wish to have any sport. The gun should be a double-barrel, of large bore ; one which can be depended upon for ball to the distance of 100 yards. Except the natives, those who have shot the most game and wild beasts in Norway and Sweden have rarely used a rifle. A smooth-bore is quite as effective for a bear at close quarters as a rifle. Shot may be bought in the large towns ; all other ammuni- tion should be brought from England. It is dangerous work to attack a bear single-handed, for fear of only wounding him, when he will generally charge ; in that case the hunter's life often depends upon his companion's shot, or his own nerve in not resisting when the bear comes in. The best chance of safety is then to lie down, with the face to the ground, and breathe as little as possible {Lloyd's * Field Sports of the N. of Europe,' vol. i. p. 198). Numerous instances are recorded where hunters have saved themselves by adopting that plan in preference to using the butt end of the gun, or the hunting-knife, against so formid- able an assailant at close quarters. The favourite haunts of the bear in summer are in the thickly wooded mountain valleys and slopes of the mountains, and particularly in the neighbourhood of the sseters, or mountain pastures, where the cattle are grazed. Should a bear have killed a cow in the neighbour- hood, and news of it be brought within a day or so afterwards, the most likely method of getting a shot is for the sportsman to watch the carcase of the cow from some place of concealment close by, till the bear returns to gorge himself upon it a second time, which he seldom fails to do, if undisturbed. The usual native mode of killing bears is to fix three or four guns with the muzzles pointing at different angles across the carcass of a cow that has been killed, tying strings at one end to the triggers, and at the other to the cow, so that they explode when the bear returns and begins to tug at the carcass again, in which case some of the balls can scarcely fail to kill or severely wound him. By far the greater number are killed towards the end of the winter. A good bear-skin may be bought sometimes at some of the skydts-stations for 10 or 15 dollars» Norway. § 10. GAME LAWS. 39 Meat being so rarely met with at the country stations, and game as seldom, although to be found near most places, a tourist's comfort in the commissariat department depends very much on the produce of his gun. Beef stewed to a jelly and poured into the windpipes of oxen becomes quite hard, and never turns mouldy ; an inch of this put into a small camp-kettle with game or wild fowl, and vegetables of any kind, makes an admirable dish. Good food is essential to health in shooting expeditions, and great care should be taken to avoid sleeping in the open air, which is most dangerous in the N. The Ordinance of the Storthing passed for the preservation of game, &c., is dated 4th August, 1845. But material alterations were made in 1863. The following abstract may be useful to sportsmen. Fremiums for Destruction of Birds and Beasts of Prey. — Sections 1 and 2. For every bear, wolf, tiger-cat, lynx, glutton, or wolverine, of whatever age, 5 sp.-ds. ; for eagles, 60 sks. ; mountain owls, 24 sks. ; hawks, 24 sks. Skins of beasts and birds slain to be produced to Foged of district, or his deputy, who is to mark same, and give a certificate for the premium. The following tables show the number of each that have been killed from 1846 to 1855 :— Bears. Wolves. Lynxes. Gluttons. Eagles. 1846 219 328 104 81 1055 1847 270 259 116 88 2594 1848 264 247 144 51 2498 1849 S25 197 110 96 2142 1850 246 191 118 39 2426 1851 276 281 101 50 4620 1852 202 236 118 45 3415 1853 142 191 116 51 4603 1854 198 169 94 35 3379 1855 212 235 125 72 2559 Besides about 700 or 800 mountain owls, and the same number of hawks destroyed annually. Game Laws. — Sect. 3. Elks and stags not to be killed except between 1st August and 1st November, and then only by the proprietor of the ground. One elk and 2 stags only to be killed during that time upon each separate property. But these restrictions as to time and number not to apply to islands which are private property, or those kept within walled parks. Sect. 4. Wild reindeer not to be killed between 1st April and 1st August. Sect, 5. No beavers to be killed for 10 years after 4th 40 § 10. GAME LAWS. NoTway, August, 1845, but it is feared that this law has come too late to prevent their total extinction. Their last retreat is Tellemarken. Time the same as for elks, &c. Sect, 6. Hares not to be killed between 1st June and 15th August. Owners of land alone entitled to kill them during rest of the year. Sect. 7. Female capercailzie and greyhens may not be shot between 15th March and 15th August ; male capercailzie, black- cock, hjerper, and ryper may not be shot between 15th May and 15th August ; salmon and sea-trout not to be taken between 14th September and 14th February ; partridges between 1st January and 1st September. No water-fowl used as food (birds of passage excepted) may be killed between 1st April and 15th July, or deprived of their eggs after 1st June ; but the provinces of Nordland and Finmark are excepted from this enactment as to water-fowl and their eggs. The eyder-duch is especially protected, on account of its valuable down. Sect. 8. Occupiers entitled, upon their own land, to kill stags which injure crops, &c. Sect. 9, in addition to the owner's remedy for trespass, renders the offender liable to the following penalties for game killed contrary to the above enactments. Elks, 63 sp.-ds. ; stags and beavers, 30 sps. ; wild reindeer, 10 sps. ; hares, 2 sps. ; and other game, 1 sp. Unlawfully depriving nest of eggs, 60 sks. Sect. 10. Suits for penalties under last section to be settled in police courts. When information is lodged, the officer is to inform the accused of the amount of the penalty, and enquire if he will pay it. If he agrees to do so, and fails in his promise, it may be levied upon him by an execution. Should he deny the offence, then the officer will proceed to investigate the charge and decide upon it. Fines levied to be divided between the informer and poor of district. Penalties to be without prejudice, and in addition to any reparation reserved to proprietors by usual course of law, for an infringement of their rights in hunting, fishing, or preserves. Lemmings (^Georychus lemmus) occasionally visit Norway in great numbers. They are nearly as large as a water-rat, of a tawny colour, with black stripes over the withers. They are much larger than the Siberian ones, which are about the size of a field-mouse. They appear in Norway about once in every four years ; impelled probably by a too great increase of numbers to leave the mountains they inhabit, and not, as many Norwegians are inclined to believe, by an instinct of the approaching winter being more than usually severe. They move from E. to W. in as straight a line as possible, swimming large rivers, and wide fjords, wherever they come upon them, till they reach the islands on the seaboard of the Atlantic. Occasionally, if they have been over- taken by a storm, great numbers are found floating on the surface of the Norway, § 11. suooikct account of Norway. 41 water, drowned. They never appear to return eastwards. The probable explanation of this is that most of them are devoured by the owls and hawks, which follow them. They move chiefly at night, devouring most of the herbage, or corn, it may be, as they pass. Formerly the Norwegians believed them to have fallen from the clouds, and so great was the mischief caused by them that they were solemnly exorcised by the priests, and a Lemming-Litany was appointed to be said with this object. [ 11. — Succinct Account of Norway : Fjelds, Fjords, Geology, Climate, Forests, Population. The possessions of Norway are confined to the W. part of the great Scandinavian peninsula, including Norwegian Lapland and the islands off the W. coast, the most important of which are the Loffodens, N. of the Arctic Circle. The length of the Norwegian territory, from the most southern point at the Naze to the N. Cape, is upwards of 1100 English miles. Its breadth varies considerably, being about 40 miles at the narrowest part in the N., and 260 at the widest portion in the S. Its total area in square miles is 121,800. The great chain of the Kiblen Mountains commences in the extreme N, of Lapland, and, in conjunction with others, runs through the whole length of the peninsula. All the country is mountainous, and abounds in lakes, rivers, and forests. The leading features in Norwegian scenery are the fjelds, fjords, and valleys. The Fields, or Fjelds, are the plateaux of those different ranges of mountains, such as the Dovre Fjeld, the Hardanger Fjeld, &c,, which form part of the great chain from N. to S, above mentioned. These fjelds or plateaux are of vast extent, and from them the highest summits in Norway rise to about 8000 feet. On the E. side of this great chain the descent is gradual; on the W. abrupt and precipitous. There is one peculiarity of the Norwegian fjelds which gives a stern character to the scenery, and renders pedestrian travelling particularly painful and difficult. The Norwegian hills and mountain plateaux, above the range of forests and below that of perpetual snow, have their surface entirely covered with illimitable stone-heaps, or broken rocks. These are not the results of landslips, nor are they boulders brought from a distance. Their angles are sharp, as the traveller knows to his cost, after having been compelled to pick his way for miles from point to point, with the risk, if his feet slip, or the stone rolls from under him, of breaking his legs, or at least grazing his shins. The slopes and summit of Ben Nevis will give those who have traversed it some 42 § 11. FJORDS — VALLEYS — GEOLOGY. NoTWay. idea of a condition of the earth's surface which in Norway is almost universal. Whence comes this mass of stones? It would seem as though some geological convulsion of former daj^s had shaken the mountain-tops to pieces, and then levelled the loose fragments. The Fiords, or Fjords (Friths), are arms of the sea with which the whole coast is indented, and particularly the W. The Christiania Fjord is the largest in the S. of Norway. In the W. the Hardanger and the Sogne Fjords are the most extensive; the latter runs upwards of 100 Eng. m. from the coast into the mountains. Most of these fjords upon the W. coast have several branches, and at the head of each of them there is generally a stream where salmon will be found wherever they can get up. It is upon the upper parts of the fjords on the W. coast that the most grand as well as the most picturesque scenery in Norway exists. *' Many of these larger Friths resemble in plan the skeleton of a tree, and it is not so much along the main channels as in the offshoots, cor- responding with the branches and twigs, that the grandest scenery is to be found. Many of these are dark narrow lanes of water ; wooded preci- pices rise straight from the water, and numbers of cataracts roar down on all sides. Many of the falls remind one of the Swiss Staubbach ; tassels of spray depending from some ledge, and swinging with the breeze some thousand of feet above the Fjord." — Campbell, The Valleys (Dalene). Throughout the greater portion of that chain of mountains before mentioned there are minor lateral ranges branching off, and which form deep and, for the most part, narrow valleys between them. Each has its stream and lakes. Some of these valleys are of great length, extending upwards of 100 Eng. m., and containing nume- rous farms. Indeed, all the best land in Norway is to be found in her valleys. It is the lower parts of these valleys which, upon the W. coast, form the fjords ; they are never frozen near the sea, and make some of the finest harbours in the world. The lakes and streams in Norway are innumerable, and all abound with trout. The largest lake is the Miosen, between Christiania and Trondhjem. In the N. the principal rivers are the Tana, the Alten, and the Namsen ; and in the S. the Glommen, the Lauven, and the Drammen. Waterfalls are very numerous, and many of them are upon a grand scale. {See § 8). Geology, — The whole Scandinavian peninsula is highly interesting to the geologist and mineralogist. Norway and Lapland are chiefly com- posed of primitive and transition rocks. Granite is rare, the prevailing rock being gneiss, which sometimes alternates with granite. Mica-slate also abounds, and is associated with the gneiss ; while in beds subordinate to both are limestone, quartz, and hornblende. The plateaux of the moun- tains are often covered with blocks of a conglomerate rock, iu which Norway, § 11. climate. 43 pebbles of quartz, feldspar, &c., are imbedded, and wbich, being smooth and rounded, have evidently been, during a remote but lengthened period, subject to violent friction. The southern part of Norway has frequently experienced earthquakes, and numerous instances exist, in various parts of the country, which prove that it has been upheaved by volcanic action. Mineralogy. — The Norwegian mountains appear to be rich in minerals, of which the chief are iron, copper, silver, nickel, and cobalt. Climate, — The climate of Norway is healthy, and the weather (except on the W. coast) is generally more steady than in England, being either good or bad for a considerable period without any change. A country, however, ranging over upwards of 13 degrees of latitude, and 26 degrees of longitude, must present some varieties of climate, although it is not so much to the difference of geographical position that these modifica- tions are to be ascribed as to other operating causes, such as vicinity to the ocean, height above the level of the sea, peculiarly sheltered situa- tions, and a variety of other causes, which in the same latitude frequently occasion considerable difference in temperature. In many of the fjords, the waves of the ocean literally lave the foun- dations of the houses ; whilst the inhabitants of the interior frequently locate themselves at a height of 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The town and copper-mines of Koraas, for instance, stand at an elevation of 3000 feet, and several inhabited valleys branching laterally from the great Akershuus valley rise to the height of 1500 to 2000 feet. It is principally owing to the Gulf Stream that Norway enjoys — at least its N. and W. parts — so mild a climate. " The Gulf Stream im- pinges on the western coast somewhere about lat. 62^. From this point of impact it takes a northerly direction, and follows the coast line to the Russian frontiers on the Arctic Ocean. It is owing to this that the mean temperature at the N. Cape and at Christiania, during the winter months, though these places are separated from each other by 12° of latitude, is the same. But on penetrating for a few miles into the interior, out of the influence of the sea-air, the cold in winter is intense to a degree, while the heat in summer is equally oppressive. Thus at Yalle, in S^etersdal, lat. 59°, lying at an altitude of 1000 feet above the sea, the thermometer in summer may stand at + 42° cent., and in winter fall to — 35° ! " A wooded district enjoys less of the warmth of the sun, consequently is generally more humid ; in these cases a judicious clearance will tend to increase the temperature and check the severity of the frequent spring frosts which injure the corn in the eastern valleys of Norway. In other places, where the forests have served as a protection against cold and destructive- winds, to which the land may from its peculiar local circum- 44: § 11, POPULATION. I Norway, stances be exposed, mucli injury has been done by their indiscriminate clearance ; and it is a well-known fact that many farms which formerly afforded remunerating crops have been rendered unproductive solely from this cause. Norway, on the whole, enjoys the mildest climate of any region so remote from the equator. In Iceland the limit of snow in latitude 69° is 2900 feet; on the E. coast of Greenland it descends to the water's edge and forms icebergs ; in the Scandinavian Sea, ice is formed in lati- tude 80°, whilst around the North Cape, in latitude 71° 11', and at the head of the deepest fjords, the sea never freezes. In Siberia, every trace of agriculture ceases at 60°; whereas in Norway oats will ripen under latitude 69°, rye under 69^°, and barley under 70°. Owing to the continuous daylight in summer, vegetable growth goes on with incredible rapidity. From observations made at Alten, lat. 65°, it has been ascertained that barley will grow 2i inches, and peas 3 inches, in the 24 hours, for several consecutive days, and this under the same parallel of latitude as that under which the ice- bound regions of Victoria Land, Disco Island, and Boothia Felix are situated ! At Hammerfest, hay is made in a month after the snow has left the fields. Pine- woods in the south of Norway reach about 3000 feet above the level of the sea ; farther to the north its highest limit sinks still lower. The limit of birch in the south of Norway is about 3300 feet. Above this level, and below the perpetual snow, there are capital grass-runs in summer of great extent. The Population taken by the census in 1865 was about 1,701,478 souls ; in 1855 about 1,500,000, whilst in 1835 it was only 1,194,000. By the census of 1835 the population of Christiania was 21,757 ; by that of 1845. it was 30,931 ; in 1855 it had increased to 40,000, an increase at the rate of nearly 1000 per annum in the last 20 years. At the census taken immediately after the separation from Denmark the population did not exceed 10,000 ; and the total population of the country was then 514,530 less than in 1845. : The number of Norwegian Laplanders in 1855 was 15,999, of whom 14,054 had fixed residences, and 1945 were nomads. The animal stock in the whole country in 1855 consisted of 154,447 horses, 949,935 oxen and cows, 1,596,199 sheep, 357,102 goats, 113,320 pigs, and 28,000 tame reindeer, approximately. 12. — Historical Notice. The early history of Norway is enveloped in darkness, and rests on Norway. § 12. historical notice. 45 traditions embodied in the Icelandic sagas and the famous Chronicle of Snorro Sturleson, which date from the 11th and 12th centuries. The aborigines were probably a few Lapps scattered in families all over the country till they were driven northwards, and confined to their present abodes by the influx of the forefathers of the modem Norwegians. These, as well as the Danes and Swedes, are descendants of a branch of the great Gothic stock, whose memory is preserved in numerous local names in Scandinavia. These three nations form the northern or Scan- dinavian division of the Germanic or Teutonic race ; whilst the Germans, the Dutch, and the Flemish form the southern or Gennan division, to which also the Anglo-Saxons belonged. The exact date of the arrival in Scandinavia of the Gothic tribes is not known, but probably was not long anterior to the Christian era. The results of archseological research, and the traditions themselves, point alike to the conclusion that the Gothic inhabitants of Scandinavia came from Asia, and, after wandering through the eastern and middle parts of Europe, where kindred tribes remained, occupied Denmark first, and thence, crossing the Baltic, southern Sweden and Norway. The theory proposed by Professor Munch in his celebrated work on the history of Norway, to the effect that the ancestors of the modern Norwegians came through Finland round the northern extremity of the Gulf of Bothnia, has shown itself unten- able, as no traces of such a migration can be found. The settlers formed for a long period numerous small communities, which waged continual war upon each other until Harald Haarfager (the Fair-Haired) finally completed the conquest of the whole country in the latter part of the 9th century. In the commencement of his career, having been told of the charms of Gyda, daughter of the King of Hordaland, Harald sent messengers to her with the offer, not of his hand, but of his heart. Her proud reply is stated to have been that, so far from being the mistress, she would not even be the wife of a chief whose territories consisted of a few insignificant provinces, and that she would never marry any one who did not hold absolute sway over the whole country. Admiring her ambition, he vowed to the gods that he would neither cut nor comb his hair until he had subdued all Norway^ and that he would do so or perish in the attempt. Upon the completion of his vow the princess became his wife, according to the custom of the period sharing that honour with eight others. From the completion of Harald's conquests of the country, about 885, down to about the middle of the 13th century, is comprised the heroic period of Norwegian history, replete with tales of the grandest warlike exploits. But although great riches, no doubt, were brought home to Norway by Yikings, the elements of a healthy development of 46 § 12. HISTORICAL KOTICE. NoTWaij. the country were wanting, and the strength of the people was gradually exhausted by foreign expeditions and internal feuds. The union of Norway into one kingdom by Harald Haarfager induced many of the petty chieftains to emigrate, and similar causes produced a similar effect at about the same time in Denmark and Sweden. The naval expeditions which had for some time already been going on from Scandinavia, with a view to pillage, assumed much larger proportions, and the object of the Vikings now became principally to find new homes on other shores. Whilst the Danes settled in England and in Nor- mandy, the Norwegians settled in Scotland and in Ireland, and the naany hundreds of local names of Scandinavian origin in the British islands bear witness to the numbers of the settlers. According to later traditions, EoUo, the first Duke of Normandy, was an exiled Norwegian chieftain ; and some writers have fixed his home in Norway at Aale-* sund (Rte. 24). But contemporaneous chroniclers state that he and his followers were Danes, and many of their descendants there are still surnamed " le Danois." Danes and Norwegians alike were called North* men. The whole seaboard of Europe was visited by Vikings, and many notably Norwegians came to Constantinople (in the ancient Scandinavian tongue called Miklagard " the great Court "), where they served in the guard of the emperors. The Scandinavians also reached Constantinople through Russia, where the Vikings were called " Westmanna." One of the most interesting exploits of the Norwegians was their occupation of Iceland in the 10th centy., from whence they discovered America centuries before Columbus (see DenmaThy Rte. 9). Harald Haarfager died in 933. His son, Hagen the Good, was brought "up in England in the court of Athelstane, and was the first king who endeavoured to establish Christianity in Norway ; but Paganism was not finally eradicated until the 12th century. There is a curious story told in Hagen the Good's Saga with reference to the introduction of Christianity. The king was suspected of being a waverer from the old feligion, and his nobles insisted on his attending a banquet held to Odin, and drinking the horse-broth in his honour, to which the king was obliged to consent, but with very bad grace. This seems to have been the test applied by the worshippers of Odin to all whom they suspected of Christianity. And certainly there was nothing which the monks and early missionaries to Scandinavia denounced more warmly than eating horse-flesh, as savouring of the ancient worship. The repugnance to eating horse-flesh, still felt by all nations of the Ger- manic family, perhaps has its origin from this. In 1016 Olaf (Olave) the Second ascended the throne of Norway. He is more usually known as Olaf the Holy, or St. Olaf. After Norway, § 12. histokical notice. 47 pledging himself to respect the rights of the native chiefs, in order to force Christianity upon his subjects, he not only destroyed the heathen temples but propagated the Christian faith with fire and sword. Under the sacred banner of the Cross he perpetrated the most ruthless deeds of blood and plunder, until his atrocities raised the whole country against him. In 1028 Canute the Great landed in Norway, and was elected King ; while Olaf, deserted by his people, retreated into Sweden. He subse- quently invaded the country with a view of recovering the throne, and a desperate battle was foUght at Stiklestad, N. of Trondhjem (see Kte. 24), in which he was slain, 31st August, 1030, together with most of his followers. A few years afterwards, his body having been found incorrupt, it was considered a miracle, he was declared a saint, and the corpse taken to Trondhjem and btiried there. A chapel was erected over it, which became the origin of the Cathedral. Pilgrimages were made to the shrine of St. Olaf up to the time of the Reformation. See also Trondhjem, Rte. 26. Many churches in Scandinavia, and even in London, were dedicated to this precious saint. Sweyn, the son of Canute, was deputed by him to the government of Norway, with the regal title, but upon the death of the latter, in 1035, Sweyn was driven from the throne, and Magnus I., the illegitimate son of St. Olaf, obtained possession of it. He died in 1047, and was sue* ceeded by his uncle, Harald III., one of the greatest warriors of his age, and the founder of Osloe, now the city of Christiania. At the insti- gation of Tostig, brother of Harald II. of England, he invaded that country, but in the battle fought at Statnford iti Lincolnshire in 1066, both Harald of Norway and Tostig were slain. The son of Harald (Olaf III. of Norway), with the whole of the Norwegian fleet, fell into the hands of Harald of England, who generously allowed Olaf to depart with 20 ships. Harald himself perished, within 3 weeks afterwards, upon the field of Hastings. Magnus III., surnamed Barfoed (Bare-foot), was the successor to his father, Olaf III., and became one of the most warlike and heroic monarchs of Norway. In 1098 he conquered the Isle of Man, the Shetlands, Orkneys, and Hebrides. He afterwards invaded Ireland, where he was surprised and slain in 1103, after a gallant resistance. His son, Sigurd I., surnamed Jorsalafare, i»e. Traveller to Jerusalem, is celebrated in the annals of Norway for his pilgrimage to Jeru- salem, and his exploits during the voyage. He sailed in 1107, with a fleet of 60 ships, and was 4 years absent. His first winter was passed in England, where he was hospitably entertained by Henry I. Con- tinuing his voyage, he fought several battles afterwards with the Moors 48 § 12. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Norway. in Portugal and at sea. Landing in Sicily, he was magnificently entertained there by Eoger, the Norman sovereign of that island. He then proceeded to Jerusalem, where the offer of his sword was most acceptable to Baldwin. His last exploit in the Holy Land was that of joining in the siege of Sidon, and when the city was taken half the booty became his. He returned home by way of Constantinople and Germany. The fame of this expedition still lives in the memory of the peasants of the Sogne Fjord, many of whose ancestors took part in it. Before leaving Constantinople, Sigurd placed the figurehead of his own ship, a gilt dragon 12 ft. long, on the Church of St. Sophia ; but in 1204, after the capture of the city by the Crusaders, the new Emperor Baldwin of Flanders sent it as a present to the city of Bruges, from whence it was carried away in 1382 to Ghent ; and there it still remains, on the great belfry, the pride of the citizens and long a puzzle to the antiquaries. Dissension and civil war followed upon the death of Sigurd, which for a time were checked, in 1152, by the good offices of the Papal Legate, Nicholas Breakspear, an Englishman, who afterwards ascended the pontifical throne as Adrian IV. He succeeded in getting a metro- politan see established at Trondhjem, with a jurisdiction not only over Norway, but also Iceland, Greenland, the Faroe Islands, Shetlands, Orkneys, Hebrides, and Man. These two last were called the " Syder- ber," or Southern Islands, in contradistinction to Orkney and Shetland. This word is no doubt the origin of the name " SodorJ^ Hagen IV. made war upon Scotland for the continued possession of the Hebrides, and died during the expedition in 1263. From this time commenced the decline of the national prosperity of Norway, attributed to the continued foreign and civil wars, which thinned the population ; and also to the monopoly of trade established by the Hanse towns, which crushed the national industry, and shackled the trade of the country so fatally as still to have left its traces upon the W. coast. Another fearful blow to the prosperity of Norway was the plague (called the Black Death), which in 1349 was brought by an English ship, which had been driven into Bergen, the crew having previously perished. In Trondhjem, the archbishop and the whole of the chapter died, with the exception of one canon. Solomon, Bishop of Osloe, was the only bishop who survived. Many appalling traditions relating to this scourge are yet extant in the country. Several densely populated valleys lost all their inhabitants; the domestic animals also were smitten with this plague. tThe peasantry, for want of cattle and strength to labour, could not cultivate their land, and the famine which succeeded completed what the plague had begun; many districts Norway. § 12. historical notice. 49 became waste, and forests sprang up, which remain to this day, where cultivated fields were to be seen previously. Industry, trade, and navigation were stopped, and the country fell into decay, from which it did not recover for centuries. Hagen VI. married the daughter of Valdemar lY. of Denmark, and died in 1380, when the Norwegian crown descended to his infant son, then Olaf III. of Denmark, from which period, down to 1814, the two countries remained united under one sceptre. Olaf III. of Denmark and V. of Norway died young, and was succeeded by his mother, the famous Margaret, known as " the Semiramis of the North." Victorious over the King of Sweden, she subsequently united that country to her dominions, and in 1397 succeeded in obtaining the signatures of the chief nobles and prelates of the three kingdoms to the celebrated act, known as the Union of Kalmar, the chief object of which was, in future, to unite the three crowns on one head ; and, with that view, it was stipulated that a perpetual peace should reign between the three countries, the subjects of each to have equal rights at the election of their sovereign, each kingdom to be governed by its own laws, and all to unite in the common defence. But the successors of Margaret, German princes, distantly related to the old royal family of Denmark, had not the energy and ability required for carrying out her great work. Christian I. mortgaged the Shetland and Orkney Islands for a portion of his daughter's dowry on her marriage with James III. of Scotland ; the money was never afterwards paid, and thus these islands became transferred from Norway to Scotland. In 1523, the Swedes — who had never cordially accepted the Scandi- navian union, and who were exasperated at the cruel measures of King Christian II. — finally re-established their independence under Gustav Vasa, and soon after, the political relation of Norway to Denmark was materially altered. In the same year in which Christian II. lost the crown of Sweden, the nobility in Denmark rebelled against him, and elected his uncle Frederick I. to be king in his stead. Civil war ensued, for the lower and middle classes favoured Christian II. as much as the nobles hated him. He sought assistance abroad, and landed in Norway in 1531, where he found many adherents, but was finally compelled to enter into negociations, and was made a prisoner for life. At the death of Frederick I., in 1533, the friends of Christian II. rose again, and Copenhagen declared for him ; but the armies of Christian III. were victorious, and the capital succumbed after a twelvemonths' siege. Norway was punished by the victorious party for her adherence to Christian II. by the loss of her independence ; she was deprived of her [Norway^ D 50 § 12. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Norway, parliament, and reduced to a mere province of Denmark instead of being a free elective kingdom — a hard measure to which she was too weak to offer even a show of resistance. In 1536, under Christian III., the Eeformation was introduced, and gradually and peacefully carried through. Amongst the following Kings of Denmark none was more popular than Christian IV., who often visited the country, and founded the towns of Christianiaon the ruins of ancient Osloe, and Christiansand. In his reign the rich silver-mines at Kongs- berg, and the copper-mines of Eoraas, the largest in Norway, were dis- covered. He also improved the laws and administration of Norway greatly. During the first two centuries after the separation of Sweden from Denmark and Norway, there were frequent wars between the two Scandinavian powers, in which the Norwegians took a conspicuous part. Tordenskjold, the most popular hero of the Danish navy, was a Nor- wegian, and it was in Norway, at the siege of Fredrikshald, that Charles XII. of Sweden met his death. Norwegians also took a considerable part in the literary and scientific life of Scandinavia. Ludvig Kolberg, the father of modern Danish literature, was a Norwegian, and so were Ewald, Wessel, and other highly esteemed authors. Copenhagen and its University, of course, formed the intellectual centre of the Dano- Norwegian nation, though a Norwegian Society of Sciences had its seat in Trondhjem. In this respect, a change would in any case have resulted from the establishment of a University at Christiania in 1810 under Frederick VI., but the two countries were violently separated after- having been united for more than 400 years. In 1810, the Emperor Alexander of Eussia, by one of those transac- tions which are always condemned when they come to light, but which nevertheless always form the subject of la haute politique y guaranteed Norway to Sweden in exchange for Finland, on condition that the Crown Prince Eegent of Sweden (Bernadotte) would join the allied sovereigns. He accepted this arrangement, which was confirmed by the great powers, and, after the battle of Leipsic, the Crown Prince marched into Holstein with a considerable force, and compelled Frederick VI., under the terms of the treaty of Kiel, to cede Norway to Sweden. Many of the Norwegians were at this time prisoners of war in England, and had been offered their liberty upon giving their parole not to bear arms during the continuance of the struggle their country was making. To a man they refused these terms, and remained in prison till the war was over. When the treaty with Bernadotte became known, the Norwegians were justly indignant at being thus transferred from Denmark to Sweden without their consent, and determined to resist it and declare Norway, § 12. historical notice. 51 their independence. The Prince Christian (afterwards the 8th king of that name in Denmark) was then Governor-General of Norway, residing there. He convoked a national diet, which was composed of 113 representatives of all classes of the people, and met at Eidsvold, near Christiania (see Etc. 26), on the 11th of April, 1814. The constitution, as it now exists, was then prepared. On the 17th of May following, the Prince Christian was elected King of Norway, and the diet thence- forth took the name of Storthing. The Swedes, led by Bernadotte, invaded Norway by way of Frederickshald, and the allies blockaded the coast. Longer resistance became a useless waste of life and property, and accordingly, on the 14th of August, the most favourable terms having been offered to the Norwegians, an armistice and convention were agreed to between the belligerents. Christian abdicated the throne of Norway, and Charles XIII. of Sweden was elected in his place, as king of Norway. On the 4th of November, 1814, he accepted the constitution, on which day it is therefore dated. It comprises 112 articles, the first of which declares that " Norway shall be a free State, independent, indivisible, and inalienable, united to Sweden under the same king." On the death of Charles XIII., in 1818, Bernadotte ascended the throne of, Norway, as Charles John XIV. Desirous of introducing several important alterations in the institutions of the country, he is stated to have tried every means to gain a majority in his interest in the Storthing, but in vain ; not a single member could be found who would abuse the confidence of his constituents. An armed demonstration was equally unavailing, and the firm, determined patriotism of the Norwegians has enabled them to resist all attempts which might have proved injurious to the interests of " Gamle Norge" (Old Norway). On the death of Bernadotte, on the 8th of March, 1844, his son, Oscar I., was proclaimed, being then in his 45th year. Soon after his accession. King Oscar gav^ the Norwegians a separate national flag, • which his father had denied them. He also decreed that, in all acts and public documents relating to Norway, he should be styled King of Norway and Sweden, instead of Sweden and Norway, as heretofore. In August, 1847, he created an order of merit for the Norwegians, "St. Olaf." These judicious arrangements, combined with his liberal and enlightened views, his scientific acquirements, and untiring industry in the duties of his high office, endeared him to his Norwegian sub- jects, with whom he was most popular. In September, 1857, King Oscar was attacked by a malady, which incapacitated him from holding the reins of government. His son, Prince Carl Louis Eugene, was appointed Regent during his father's 3> 2 62 § 13. GOVEENMENT. NoTway, illness, and succeeded to the throne on his death in 1859, under the title of Carl XV. He was born on the 3rd of May, 1826, and married, in 1850, the Princess Wilhelmina of Holland, daughter of Prince William Frederic, a brother of the present King of Holland. 13. — Government. Norway is an hereditary constitutional monarchy, the mutual rights of the crown and of the people being clearly defined by the Constitution of 1814, which was subsequently guaranteed by the allied powers. For particulars of the Royal Family, see Handhooh for Sv^eden, The Storthing is elected for 3 years, and is assembled every year ; the duration of their sittings is 3 months, or until the whole of the business before them be despatched; the king, however, has the power to dissolve it. Each Storthing settles the taxes for the ensuing year, enacts, repeals, or alters the laws, grants the sums which have been fixed for the different branches of expenditure, revises the pay and pension lists, and makes such alterations as it deems proper in any provisional grants made by the king during the recess. It also appoints auditors to examine all the government accounts. The minutes of the public departments, as well as copies of all treaties, are laid before it. The Storthing impeaches, and tries before a division of its own body, ministers of state, judges, and also its own members. Besides these important controlling powers, secured to it by the constitution, sworn to by the representatives of the nation at Eidsvold on the 17th of May, and accepted by the king on the 4th No- vember, 1814, the Storthing receives the oaths of the king on coming of age or ascending the throne ; and in case of a failure of the royal line, it can, in conjunction with Sweden, elect a new dynast3\ The first step taken by the Storthing, after it has been duly con- stituted, is to elect the Lagthing, or Upper House. This is done by choosing from among the members of the entire body one-fourth of their number; the functions of this section are deliberative, and judicial in cases of impeachment ; the other three-fourths constitute the Odelsthing, or Common House ; all enactments must be initiated in this section. The initiative of laws is not vested in Government alone, but any member of the Storthing can propose a law. After a bill has been passed in the Odelsthing, it is sent to the Lagthing, where it is deliberated upon, passed, rejected, or sent back with amendments to the Odelsthing ; after being agreed to, it requires the sanction of the king before it can become a law. But if a bill passes through both divisions in 3 successive Storthings, on the third occasion it becomes the law of the land without the royal assent. The law for the abolition of here- ditary nobility was passed by the exercise of this right in 1821. Norway, § 13. governiment — storthing — religion. 53 Every native Norwegian of 25 years of age, who has been owner for 5 years, or who has a lease of at least 5 years of a farm, paying tax, or who is a burgess of any town, or possesses there a house or land to the value of 150 sp.-d. (about 30Z.) is entitled to vote in elections ; but, to be elected, he must be 30 years of age, and, if a foreigner, he must have resided 10 years in Norway. The country is divided into elective districts, corresponding to our counties, and into sub-districts like our parishes. Each town having 150 voters makes a sub-district, but if the number be under 150, it is joined to the next town. When the period arrives, the voters proceed to choose their electors, in such pro- portion that in towns 1 is chosen from every 40 voters, and in the country 1 from every 100 ; if the sub-district contains a smaller number than a hundred, they elect 1 ; from 100 to 200 voters elect 2 ; from 200 to 300 voters 3, and so on. After these electors are chosen, they assemble and elect from among themselves, or from among any other qualified voters in the district, their representative in the Storthing. The greatest number of members any county or town can send to the Storthing is 4. The Storthing meets every year in October. All the meetings of the ordinary Storthings take place suo jure, by the terms of the constitution, and not under any writ or pro- clamation from the king. An extraordinary Storthing, consisting of the members of the previous Storthing, may be convened by royal authority, but it can only pass interim acts until the next ordinary Storthing. The election and meeting of the regular body cannot be postponed or controlled in any way by the executive power, and do not depend on its co-operation. The ministers of state are not allowed to sit in the Storthing ; it was feared that they might exercise too much control over the members. But considerable practical inconvenience has been found to result from their exclusion, and it has been proposed more than once to rescind this clause of the constitution. The Religion of Norway is Episcopal Lutheran : it remains in exactly the same state as that in which it was originally moulded after the subversion of Koman Catholicism, and there are but few individuals who hold any other creed. In fact, until very lately, no places of wor- ship belonging to other creeds were permitted to exist. But in the Storthing of 1845 an act of general toleration was passed, which gave religious liberty to all Christians. In the Storthing of 1851 another act admitted Jews to the country on liberal conditions of equality with Christians. There is now a Roman Catholic congregation at Christiania, and another at Alten in Finmark, but, as far as is known, they have made few proselytes. Mormons are not allowed to remain in the country : most of those who belonged to this sect have emigrated to America. 64 § 13. RELIGION — PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. Norway, The clergy, speaking generally, are a highly educated class of men, most of them being acquainted with the literature of Europe, and familiar with the standard works in the French and German languages, and with those of England ; most of the clergy can converse in Latin. Taking into account the value of money in the country, their church incomes are good, the average of the livings being 200?. per annum. While the Roman Catholic faith prevailed in Norway, there, as else- where, a vast portion of the land was in the hands of the clergy, and, although despoiled of a good deal at the Reformation, the greater portion remained at the time the constitution was established, in 1814. One of the first acts of the Storthing was, therefore, to pass a law that all church lands, not glebe, should be sold, and the produce applied to educational purposes. The fund thus raised amounted to 600,000?. or 700,000/. Norway is divided into 5 bishoprics and 336 parishes, some of which are very extensive. The performance of public worship is essentially ceremonial, as much so almost as the Roman Catholic. There are crucifixes, paintings, sculptures, and votive offerings in the churches, but no act of adoration is ever performed to any of these. There is much monotonous chanting of psalms in the service. The patronage is in the Crown, the Minister for Ecclesiastical Affairs, and the Norwegian Council of State. They select three candidates, whose names are placed first on the list, which is laid before the king. He usually, but not invariably, presents one of the three thus recom- mended to the vacant living. Fublic Instruction. — Schoolmasters are appointed to every parish, and paid partly by a rate upon the householders, in addition to a small contribution from the scholars. The instruction in these schools is usually confined to reading, writing, arithmetic, and singing. Consider- able efforts are made by the clergy to promote education amongst the lower classes, and it is rare to find any young person in Norway who cannot at least read and write. Great importance is attached to the ceremony of confirmation in Norway, prior to which the applicants undergo a long and careful course of religious instruction, and are subject to rigid examination, both public and private, by the clergy of their respective parishes. In the towns there are schools of a very superior description. Sunday schools have been extensively established ; and the Society of Public Good maintains a public library, in most parts of the kingdom. The only University is at Christiania, established by the Danes in 1811. Justice, — A court of mutual agreement exists in each parish, the arbitrators being chosen by the householders every 3 years. For legal Norway, § 13. justice — army — navy. 55 purposes Norway is divided into 4 Stifts and 64 Sorenshriveries. In each of the latter a law court sits once a quarter, where the Sorenskriver presides ; he is assisted by 3 Laugretsmcend, but who, practically, are merely considered judicial witnesses. From these courts an appeal lies to the Stifts-ret, which sits in the chief town of each Stift, and is composed of 3 judges, with assessors. And from the Stifts-ret a final appeal hes to the Hoieste-ret in Christiania, which is composed of a president and 8 assessors. The judges are responsible in damages for their decisions. Capital punishment is rarely put in force. When it is, it is performed by beheading with a sword. Great efforts are being made by the Norwegian Government to im- prove the criminal law, and with that object the Storthing in 1845 made a grant to enable the Government to send commissioners to England and the United States, for the purpose of enquiring into the system of trial by jury ; and in 1857 they passed an act for the intro- duction of the system into Norway : the act, however, was negatived by the Idng's veto. As regards the transfer of real property in Norway, it is, perhaps, more simple, secure, and inexpensive than in any other country in Europe. ' The Press is perfectly free in Norway, all being at liberty to print and publish what they please, but subject to responsibility for what they do publish. Newspapers are numerous and free from tax. The Army comprises about 23,000 men, of which 2000 are gevarhen (armed), and perform garrison duty ; 10,000 are troops of the line, who are drawn in their several districts, and bound to serve five years ; 9000 form the Landvasrn, which is composed of men from the line, who, after having completed their period of duty iu that service, are attached to the Landvsern for 10 years, making the term of service in all 15 years ; and about 2000 are engineers, staff and garrison officers, and military servants. The artillery consists of 5 battalions, and the cavalry of 11 squadrons. The troops of the line are exercised in com- panies every summer for six weeks in their own districts, those of the Landvjern for eight days. The garrison towns are Christiania, Frederikstad, Christiansand, Bergen, and Trondhjem. All officers must be educated at the Military Academy in Christiania, and they undergo rather a strict examination previous to receiving their commission. They usually reside in their several districts, and the principal part of their emolument consists in the use of a house and farm. The Navy. — In future it is intended only to build steamers and gun- • boats. At present the Norwegian navy consists of 3 frigates, 5 cor- vettes, 125 gun-boats, 5 steamers ; in all 138 craft of all kinds, carrying 450 guns. 46,000 sailors are enrolled. A part of these are men in 56 § 13. REVENUE. Norway. the merchant service, and a part are the fishermen on the coast ; they are liable to serve whenever called upon. The three naval depots are Horten, Frederiksvsern, and Trondhjem. At Horten large sums are expended in the construction of works connected with the building and repair of vessels, and also for the manufacture of marine engines. The Norwegian Bevenue for the three years is estimated by the Government at the sum of 4,631,000 sp., about 1,000,000^., viz. : — Customs 2,600,000 Excise on brandy 750,000 Kongsberg Mines 50,000 Stamps 85,000 Post 310,300 Interest on money belonging to the State . . . . 162,500 Money belonging to the State ) oiq 500 Obligations due to the State j ' Sundries, such as land-tax, police fines, legacy duties, &c 453,700 Total .. 4,631,000 The principal items of Expenditure are : — sp. Royal family 111,000 Army 988,000 Navy 540,000 Civil administration, justice, and police .. ,. 1,036,904 Diplomatic service 76,900 Interest on national debt 247,431 Piensions 76,700 Storthing .. .. 36,292 Education, &c 164,017 Improvement of roads 51,073 Post 325,300 Telegraph 97,500 Lighthouses 92,919 Improvement of agriculture 47,266 Increase to oflacial salaries 225,000 Sundries 529,000 Total .. 4,645,302 The direct tax on land for the whole country is but 5700 sp. As the peasants or farmers produce the greatest portion of the articles Norway. § 14. the people. 67 they consume, and scarcely purchase any luxuries, full two-thirds of the revenue being derived from the customs, the burdens fall on the higher classes, and upon those who, living in towns or along the coast, support themselves by the fisheries. It is the wish of the Government to equalise the taxation by levying a small land-tax, which would enable them to reduce some of the duties, but as the majority of members of the Storthing are peasants, this will probably be a work of some difficulty. The Government have long been aware of the impolicy of trusting so largely to the customs, instead of availing themselves of other sources of revenue which could not be so easily disturbed by political changes. 14. — The People. The early and close connection which existed between the inhabitants of the United Kingdom and those of Norway and other parts of Scandi- navia has left such strong traces both in the language and character of the former that every Englishman must be sensible of it, and will probably more quickly find himself at home amongst the Norwegians than amongst any other part of the great European family. The Norwegians have the same feelings towards the English; they like them, as every Englishman who has travelled in Norway can bear witness. Great patriotism and hospitality are two of the leading characteristics of the Norwegians ; they are often cold and reserved, and combine great simplicity of manner with firmness and kindness. " Deeds, not words," is their motto. Enjoying as much practical liberty as any nation can boast of, they know and value it, and consequently are not only very independent, but particularly jealous of any encroachments from those above them. There is not much admixture of Finnic or Lapponic (Mongolian) race with the Norwegian stock ; none probably in the S. and very little in the N. of Norway. The Norwegians are a tall, hardy, long- lived race. Standing in a Norwegian crowd, an Englishman of average height will find so many taller, or as tall as himself, that it is a difficult matter to see over or between their heads. The reverse of this is the case in crowds of most continental nations. Cutaneous diseases and chest affections are their worst maladies, so that those with a tendency to those disorders should by no means travel there. Otherwise^ Norway is a very healthy country. Cholera raged in Christiania in 1853, and in Christiansand in 1856, but did not spread inland, or extend to Trondhjem, or the North, where it has never yet been seen. The dirt, bad drainage, and heat in Christiania are quite enough to D 3 58 § 15. PEODUCTivE INDTTSTRY. Norway, account for cholera there ; but since the great fire of 1858, when nearly one-fourth of the town was laid in ashes, a great improvement has taken place. The town is supplied with excellent water from a lake a few miles distant, and large sums of money have been expended on drainage and other sanitary amendments. The upper and middle classes became amalgamated after the inde- pendence of the country was established in 1814, and are comparatively few in number. The bulk of the population is engaged in agricultural pursuits, the land being mostly held in small farms. It is these small farmers, or peasants, as they are called, who now command a majority in the Storthing. Like most agriculturists, they are obstinately opposed to innovations, but may easily be led by those in whom they place confidence. The besetting sin of the peasants is drunkenness, which engenders idle and dirty habits. The drudgery of the farms falls upon the women in a great measure, and they are usually less clean and well-dressed than the men, except upon Sundays and state occasions. 15. — Productive Industry. Agriculture, &c. — Norway is essentially an agricultural and pastoral country, but only about 1060 sq. miles of the entire surface are supposed to be under culture, or otherwise productive. Most of the land is the property of those who cultivate it, and is called udal, which is equiva- lent to our freehold. The farms usually comprise 3 divisions: the in-field, or land enclosed for cultivation and the best hay ; the mark^ or out-field, also enclosed and kept for pasturing the cattle ; and the sceter or tract of grass-land in the mountains, where a shed is erected, and the cattle are pastured during the summer. A farm of average size is about 300 acres, exclusive of the sseter. All the hay and other crops, as well as the cattle, are kept under cover during the winter, which renders the homestead large in proportion to the size of the farm. Almost all the buildings are of timber, resting upon detached masses of rock, so as to allow a free current of air underneath the structure. The farmers, as was formerly the case in England, are so wedded to the system handed down to them from their ancestors, and their imple- ments are usually of such antiquated form and rude construction, that farming is literally in its infancy amongst them^ so far as regards the scientific cultivation of land, excepting in the neighbourhood of ChriS" tiania, where great improvements are in progress. Still, of late years, a marked improvement in this respect has taken place. Deep draining has been introduced there, and some improved implements of agri- culture have been imported, the merits of which are fully appre- ciated. Norway, § 16. coen — cattle — foeests. ^69 The quantity of corn, lye, barley, oats, &c., sown in the country, &c., consists of about — 2,816 quarters of wheat, 8,850 do. rye, 62,700 do. barley, 38,300 do. mixed grain, 18,600 quarters of oats, 5,000 do. peas, 277,400 do. potatoes. The imports of grain amounted to about 492,591 imperial quarters ; a quantity considerably less, however, than in 1851, when 631,390 quarters were imported. In 1852, the imports amounted to 602,110 quarters. But owing to the disastrous floods of 1860, by which an immense area of land was rendered unfit for agricultural purposes, the importations reached the large sum of 656,993 imp. quarters. The provinces of Hedemarken, Toten, and Smaalehnes are the great agricultural districts of Norway. Wheat is grown in a few favoured spots, but it only enters into the domestic economy of a Norwegian household as an article of luxury. In many parts of Norway there are corn magazines, to which the faimers may send their surplus produce, and from whence also they may be supplied with loans of grain. The depositors receive at the rate of 12^ per cent, of increase on the corn deposited for 12 months ; and the borrowers replace the quantities advanced them at the ex^ piration of the same period, paying an increase of 25 per cent. This difference between the amount of the corn received and lent pays the expenses. These magazines are most useful, in consequence of the ex^ treme precariousness of the crops. The most profitable branch of rural industry appears to be that of breeding horses and cattle. The latter are small, but admirable for the dairy. The true Norwegian horse (now but rarely met with) is about 13 or 14 hands high, colour dun, with black mane, tail, and legs, and also a black stripe along the back ; head small, splendid crest and mane, high shoulder, and finely proportioned. Those bred on the mountains usually run very small. In the S. of Norway horses are about 50 per cent, dearer than in the N. and W. Forests, — Another great source of profit to the farmers in some parts of Norway is their pine and fir timber; most of it grows upon the Ibanks of those great rivers and their tributaries which flow into the Christiania Fjord. The farmers assemble to meet the timber merchants in Christiania at midsummer, the contracts are entered into, and about 20 per cent, paid in advance. The trees are then felled, cut into lengths, and floated down the rivers in the spring to the sawmills of the merchants, where they are sawn into planks, sorted, and dried for exportation. Upwards of 8-lOths of the Norwegian timber is taken by 60 § 15. FORESTS — MINES. Norway, France. Only about 1-lOtli, of the best quality, comes to England. The chief places from whence it is exported are Drammen, Christiania, and Sarpsborg, near Frederikstad. The total annual produce of the Norwegian forests, in timber, deals, charcoal, and firewood, is estimated at 1,000,000/. Oak grows only in some of the more southern pro- vinces; there is one oak-tree in a garden near Trondhjem (latitude 682°). Beech are found in one particular district near Laurvig (lati- tude 59°), and a few near Christiansand. The ash (Fraxinus excelsior) is confined to the S. of Norway. Fir, mountain-ash, birch, poplar, and several kinds of willow, flourish all over the country. Spruce fir is the prevailing tree of the S. of Norway, but it is not found much N. of the Arctic Circle, where Scotch fir takes its place. Mountain-ash (Pyrus aucuparia) grows very luxuriantly : and its clusters of berries are exceedingly beautiful in the autumn. The larch is not indigenous to Norway, but it has been planted, and thrives well near Bergen. ** The uses of the birch-tree are very various. Birch-hark is used for rooting all over Norway, even where the roofs of the houses are planked over, as is commonly the case, the substance which really keeps out the rain is birch-bark inserted in layers beneath the planks. The outer bark is used in tanning nets ; the inner is stripped in sheets resembling hides, and almost as large." — O. B. A, Currants, raspberries, and strawberries, and numerous other berries, such as the molteberry {Mubus charncemorus), the whortleberry ( Vacci'^ nium vitis Idcea), &c., grow wild in Norway, and bear good fruit. Cherries, gooseberries, apples, pears, and all kinds of English summer vegetables, ripen in the S. of Norway. Mines, — No coal has yet been discovered in Norway, which is a great drawback upon the mining operations which might otherwise be carried on ; but the ores are, on the other hand, of extraordinary richness in many places. Some of the iron ores, for instance, in the S. produce 80 and even 95 per cent, of pure metal. At present the mineral productions are chiefly confined to iron, copper, silver, nickel, and cobalt. The iron-mines are numerous, but are not worked to any extent, as in all the mining districts they are restricted to a fixed quantity of fuel, which necessarily limits the produce : were this not fixed, the produc- tion might be increased for a few years, but then the forests would be altogether exhausted. The total quantity of iron obtained does not exceed 30,000 tons per annum, but it is of the finest quality. The total produce of copper varies from 400 to 500 tons. It is shipped to Germany, Holland, and France. The Rbraas copper-mines are among the oldest in Europe, having been worked for upwards of Norway. § 15. mines— fisheries — manufactures. 61 200 years. The Kongsberg silver-mines belong to the State, and for a series of years have returned an annual profit of about 200,000 dollars, although the number of men employed to work them is less than 400 ; the metal occurs chiefly in the form of native silver, and beautiful crystaUised specimens are occasionally met with ; there is one in the museum at Copenhagen which weighs about 500 pounds. Since their commencement, these mines have produced upwards of six millions sterling. Fisheries. — The inhabitants of the Norwegian coast throughout its whole extent, as well as those of the great fjords in the W., are almost entirely supported by the fisheries, whose value is estimated at upwards of 2,000,000?., and which give employment to 150,000 persons — one- tenth of the population. The most important are the cod and sey, which are carried on during February and March about the Loffoden Islands and other parts of the N. coast. Nearly 4000 boats are employed, the largest of which are about 3 tons burden. 40 millions are caught in a year. The herring-fishery is chiefly carried on between Bergen and Sta- vanger. It usually commences after the cod season is over, and the annual produce is worth 650,000?. per annum. The arrival of the herring shoals off the coast is now instantaneously announced from one end of the land to the other by electric telegraph. Four species of shark are found in the N. seas between Hammerfest and North Cape. This fishery is carried on for the sake of shark's-liver oil — one fish yield- ing from 15 to 60 gallons. From Bergen to the Naze there is also an extensive take of lobsters, most of which are exported to London alive. During the season there are two lines of packets between Norway and England constantly employed in this trade. In the summer large quantities of mackerel are taken off the S. coast, and are extensively salted for winter use in Norway. Great numbers of salmon are also taken upon the S. coast, and in all the rivers where they can get up throughout Norway. Ice. — Great part of the so-called Wenham Lake Ice comes from Nor- way. On the borders of the Christiania Fjord, near Droebak, a com- pany has purchased a lake, whose waters are kept as pure as possible from defilement. In winter, when the ice has attained the thickness of 2 or 3 ft., it is planed and cut with a plough, sawn and split with wedges into blocks, and exported chiefly to England, to the extent of some 50,000 tons per annum. The blocks are packed with intervening layers of sawdust to prevent their congealing into one mass. Manufactures are almost entirely domestic, the division of labour being carried to a less extent in Norway than in almost any other part 62 § 16. COMMERCE. Norway, of Europe. The Norwegian peasant Las few wants, and unites most trades in his own person and family, purchasing nothing which can be raised or made upon his own farm; yet of late years many manu- factories have been established for working up the natural products of the country, for which the numerous waterfalls supply a great abund- ance of water power. Besides a great number of brandy distilleries, there are breweries, tobacco manufactories, sawmills, iron foundries, and smelting works scattered all over the country. The cotton-spinning and weaving factories for the production of the coarser kinds of cloth have not been able to compete with the English wares, in spite of a high protective duty. 16. — Commerce. Almost all the towns in Norway are upon or near the coast. Internal Trade is at present upon a very small scale, arising from the habits of the peasantry, the thinness of the population, the moun- tainous nature of the country, and badness of the roads. The latter, however, are being improved as fast as the national resources will permit, and steamers now carry traffic to the end of the remotest fjords. The Banh of Norway is in Trondhjem, and has branches in Chris- tiania, Bergen, and Christiansand. For further particulars see Trond- hjem, Rte. 26* Foreign Trade of late years has be,en exceedingly prosperous. Duties on imported articles have been relaxed, as far as compatible with the exigencies of the State, and a great advance has been made towards adopting the principles of free trade. The result so far has been, not only to encourage intercourse with foreign nations, but to stimulate the energies of the Norwegians to develope the internal resources of their country. The Exports from Norway are chiefly deals and timber, fish, and minerals. Of the former, upwards of 500,000 loads are annually shipped to France, England, Denmark, Holland, and Belgium. Between 400,000 and 600,000 barrels of herrings are annually sent to Sweden, Denmark, and the Baltic ports. The produce of the cod- fishery, which comprises the fish both in a dried and salted state, cod-liver oil, and cod roes, is very great. The fish are sent to Russia, France, Spain, and Italy ; the oil to Germany and Holland ; and the roes to France and the N. coast of Spain, where they are used as bait in the sardine fishery. Of late years granite has been extensively exported to Hamburg, where it is used for the foundations of houses and other purposes. The Imports comprise all kinds of colonial produce, wines, and the iforioay, § 17. literatuke, etc. 63 manufactures of Germany, France, and England, particularly the latter ; salt, coals, iron wares, and a great variety of articles of luxury, for which prosperity invariably creates a demand. The Commercial Marine shows great activity. In 1868 it consisted of 6457 vessels ; the united tonnage of which amounted to 756,825 tons, and the seamen to 43,924. The repeal of the English naviga- tion laws no doubt has given a considerable impulse to Norwegian shipping. 17. — Literatuke, etc. The Norwegians are decidedly a reading people. The long winter nights offer a great inducement to reading, and it is a remarkable phenomenon that religious books form a very large proportion of the literature consumed by the peasants and the lower classes. Norway is by far the best market for this class of books in the Dano-Norwegian language, and very many are translated from English. But lighter literature is not neglected, and some very gifted authors have even attempted to write poems and novels in the dialect of the peasants, such as, for instance, Bjornson, Bjornstjerne, and others. But this movement has not been successful. Amongst other writers of fiction, later than 1814, Welhaven and Wergeland are the principal. The Storthing, though chiefly consisting of peasant farmers, votes propor- tionally liberal sums for scientific purposes, and for pensions to eminent men of letters, thus shaming many a greater and wealthier nation. Norway can boast several celebrated names in science and art since 1814, such as the zoologist Sars, the Orientalist Lassen (residing at Bonn), the historian Munch, the Professor in Physics, Hansteen, the painters Dahl, Gude, and Tidemand, whose pictures are so admired at the Exhibitions at London. The state of the public press is creditable to the country, and con- ducted with considerable talent. Almost every town possesses a news- paper, and the capital no less than six, besides a Penny Magazine and several monthly publications. There are Norwegian theatres in Bergen and Christiania, and also a Danish theatre in the latter, where Danish pieces principally, and translations of French vaudevilles, are acted. There is a considerable collection published of Norwegian national airs, and some of the melodies are very charming. The constant theme of the most popular songs and favourite airs is Gamle Norge (Old Norway). " The Swiss Eanz des Vaches does not produce a more wonderful effect upon the Alpine shepherd than does this simple national allusion on the mind of the Norwegian." — Crichton^s * Scandinavia,' vol. ii. p. 315. ( 64 ) Norway. NOTICE. In the following Norwegian Eoutes the names of Stations and distances have heen checked by the Government Road-book as far as it extends. For those which are not included in that book, Waligorski's Map, and Roosen's, both published in Christiania, have been relied upon, as being considered the best and most likely to be used by travellers. But, to guard against any alterations which may be made in the Stations, or inaccuracy of their names or distances, it is always advisable, on sending Forbud papers, to have them checked and compared with the Lomme- JReiseroute, before sending them. Distances in Norway will always be given in Norsk (Norwegian) miles, unless English miles be expressly stated. Both in Norway and Sweden the heights of mountains, and levels of lakes in all the Routes, have been (with few exceptions) taken from Forsell's Map, in 8 sheets, published at Stockholm, and are therefore given in Swedish feet. — See " Measures," in Preliminary Information to the Handbook for Sweden, The asterisk *, prefixed to the names of Stations, denotes that good or tolerable accommodation is to be obtained there. And the obelisk f, before the name of a Station, marks it as a " Fast Station ;" that is, that horses are kept in readiness there ; see pp. 5, 13. T before the name of a station signifies a telegraph station. Telegraph Stations in Connection with England and all Parts of the Continent. Christiania, and all Stations on railway ; the frontiers of Norway and Sweden at Hogen, Frederikshald, Frederikstad, Sarpsborg, Moss, Hblenj Brbbak, Hamar, Lillehammer, Gjbvig, Dombaas, Drammen, Kongsberg^ Svelvig, Holmestrand, Horten, Tonsberg, Yallo, Sandbsund, Sande- fjord, Laurvig, Frederiksvgern, Brevig, Porsgrund, Skien, Langesund, Kragero, Risbr, Tvedestrand, Arendal, Grimstad, Lillesand, Christian- sand, Mandal, Farsund, Flekkef jord, Egersund, Stavanger, Skudesnses, Kobbervik, Hougesund, Leervig, Bergen, Leirdalsbren, Aalesund, Veblungsn^s, Molde, Christiansund, Trondhjem, Espev^r, KuUeseid. Norway. ROttTE 20. — LOItCON TO CHRISTIANIA. 65 EOUTES THROUaH NORWAY. ROUTE 20. LONDON TO CHRISTIANIA. The most direct and cheapest routes are by Steamers from London to Christiania, and from Hull to Chris- tiania, a distance of 500 Englisli miles. A boat leaves Hull every Friday as soon after 6 p.m. as tide permits. By leaving London by the Great Northern Railway about noon, Hull is reached in time to catch the boat for Christiania, which leaves the same evening. Berths can be secured, and exact time of departure ascertained, by writing to Messrs. Wilson and Son, Steam Navigation Company's Agents, Hull. Christiansand is usu- ally reached on the Sunday evening, and travellers wishing to go round the coast by steam to Bergen (Rte. 25) had better land here. For Inns, see Rte. 24. The Hull boat proceeds on her voyage after a short delay, and usually arrives at Christiania on the Tuesday morning. Fares from Hull, U.; return tickets, available for the whole season, 61. Fore cabin, 21. 13s. 4ri. The boats return on the intermediate Fridays. The London boat leaves the Wharf, Lower East Smithfield, every alter- nate Friday. Berths can be secured and exact time of departure ascer- tained by writing to Messrs. Bres- lauer and Thomas, 9, Gracechurch Street. The steamer touclies at Christiansand, and usually reaches \ Christiania in the same number of i hours as the Hull steamer. Chief cabin fare 4Z. ; return tickets Ql. The mail steamers from Hull to Gottenhurg run every Saturday morn- ing early, and arrive at Gottenburg on Monday morning. Thence Chris- tiania can be reached by steamers several times a week. There are, however, various other modes of reaching Christiania. The quickest, after the one pointed out, is by Calais or Ostend to Hamburg, which can be reached in 36 hours from London, if the traveller be limited for time. Supposing the traveller to have arrived in Hamburg by 6 o'clock, a.m., on the Saturday, he will be in time for the train from Altona to Kiel. At Kiel he can join the Christiania government steamer, which starts immediately after the arrival of the train, and arrives at Christiania on the Sunday night or early on the Monday morn- ing. Christiania can be reached by this route between the Thursday and the Tuesday following, but not at a less expense than from 81. to lOZ. By selecting this route, if the traveller is desirous of visiting Copen- hagen, which will well repay the trouble and additional expense, he can take the steamer from Kiel to Korsor on the west coast of Zealand, and from thence by rail to Copen- hagen. A Norwegian government steamer leaves that capital every Wednesday at noon, and arrives in Christiania early on the Friday morn- ing, after stopping at Gottenburg for a short time en route. There is also steam communication m EOUTE 20. — THE CHRISTIANIA fJOED. Norway 6 between Leith and Christiansand, a passage of 44^ hours, which can be made fortnightly in an excellent Steamers from Hull to Stavanger ^ (first making land there) and Bergen, go every 10 days. This route gives Immediate command of the Hard- anger Fjord, the Sogne Fjord, &c. Those who do not dislike a sea passage will find it cheaper to go from London to Hamburg by steamer, and thence by rail to Kiel or Liibeck, as described ; or by a steamer direct from Hamburg to Christiansand, and thence by some of the coasting steamers to Ohristiania. For inland steamboat tables, and railway tables, make enquiries in Ohristiania. Kiel to Ghristiania. A Norwegian steamer leaves Kiel every Friday at 10 o'clock, p.m., for Ohristiania, on the arrival of the train from Hamburg. Fare, chief cabin, 8 specie-dollars. Average passage, 43 hours. On her return voyage she leaves Ohristiania on Tuesdays at noon, commencing on the 30th of March, and, after touch- ing at intermediate ports in the Ohristiania Fjord, reaches Kiel on Wednesday evenings. On clearing the pretty bay of Kiel, and entering the Baltic, after a run of about 40 Eng. m., the Great Belt is entered between the islands of Langeland on the W. and La aland on the E. (see Rte. 3a).* Proceeding up the Belt, the ship calls at Korsor on Zealand, see Rte. 3a, and at Frede- rikshaven in the north of Jutland. On leaving the Belt, the course taken leads nearly due N. across those por- tions of the North Sea which are known as the Kattegat and Skager- rack. During heavy gales in winter the seas here are terrific, and the loss of life and property, at times, fright- * For Routes 1 to 19 see the Handbook for Denmark. ful. On leaving the Skagerrack the ship enters the mouth of The Christiania Fjord. — This mag- nificent fjord, by which most travel- lers approach Ohristiania, properly commences about Frederikstad,on the eastern side of the fjord, and Sande- sund on the western side, where the steamer calls, and where passengers desirous of going round the coast can generally catch a steamer going west- ward to Ohristiansand. The length of the fjord is about 70 Eng. m. The rocks at the entrance of the fjord are numerous and rugged, on one of which, by name "Fserder," there is a lighthouse. From Frede- rikstad the fjord gradually narrows till arriving at the small town of ' Horten on the left, while on the opposite side is Moss. Horten is the Portsmouth of Norway ; most of the government vessels are now built, repaired, or laid up in ordinary here. On passing Horten, the fjord spreads considerably, and soon iDCComes di- vided, the branch to the left running up to the large town of Drammen (see Rte. 23) ; the right to Chris- tiania. This branch becomes very narrow at the small town of Drobak, seat of the so-called Wen- ham Lake Ice Trade, where some forts have been erected. Drobak is on the right, and the fjord then gra- dually widens to a noble expanse, studded with numerous islands. At the N. extremity stands Ohristi- ania. The voyage all the way up this fjord forms a moving panorama of lake scenery, unique in character, and of great beauty. Those who ex- pect savage grandeur and picturesque outline of the mountains and rocks on the banks of this fjord will be dis- appointed— they must be sought for in the Bergen and other districts to the W. and N., where they abound in perfection. Most of the islands and hills seen from the fjord are too round in form to be very picturesque— they are of granite and of gneiss, and for the most part covered with fir and No^i -way. KOiJTE 20.- -CHRISTIANIA ; INNS, El:C. 67 pine trees from the water's edge to the summit, interspersed with patches of clearing, each farm being distin- guished by its group of buildings. On the whole, the scenery of the Christiania Fjord is as lovely as its form and extent are magnificent. The traveller, coming from Ham- burg, will be probably much struck by the lightness of the nights in the months of May, June, and July, and the gorgeous sunset effects, which blend into those of sunrise without losing their brightness. Any one fortunate enough to steam up this fjord on a clear, still night in one of these months will be amply repaid for staying on deck all night and watching the glorious colours reflected on the water. The steamer's course is due north— towards the sun — the whole night, and there is probably no place in the whole of Norway, where sunsets are seen to greater advantage. Farther northwards, and nearer the Arctic Circle, the sun, being but a little below the horizon, has generally too much power for the colours to be very gorgeous. On the left, before reaching Chris- tiania, numerous villas are seen; then the new palace comes in sight, with the Castle of Agershuus in the fore- ground beneath. Bounding the point on which this castle is built, the whole city, with its harbour, at once opens up. The ship now quickly reaches her moorings, and is speedily hauled alongside the quay. A custom-house • officer immediately comes on board, and if assured that the luggage con- tains no merchandise, a very slight search is made. Nothing can exceed the courtesy of the custom-house officials. Christiania. — Inns : Victoria Ho- tel, the charges are high ; H. de Scan- dinavie, equally comfortable, and the charges more reasonable ; Hotel du Nord. There are, besides, the Hotel d'Angleterre, Prins Carl, and the Copenhagen Hotel, English, French, and German spoken generally at all of them. None of them are distant from the landing-place, and if full, the masters can generally procure lodgings close by. Excellent Restau- ratits at tlie Freemasons' Hall, and at Christopherson's, in Kongen's Gade. Breweries are numerous ; the Chris- tiania ale is exceedingly good and universally liked. The Fost Office (post-contoir), Akers Gade. Show your card on asking for letters. The postage of a letter by the regular post to England is 8(i., and by Hull, Qd. ; by the latter route, one- half must be paid on posting the letter, the other half in England on receipt. By the first route, letters can be prepaid or not, as is most convenient. Postage on letters all over Norway is 4 skillings, but within the town and its suburbs, 2 skillings. The British Consul-General, Mr. Crowe, resides in Christiania. He is most courteous and kind in giving information to travellers respecting any part of Scandinavia, especially needful to those who intend to pro- ceed to Russia, which perhaps he is better qualified to do than any one in the North. Money.— See Preliminary Informa- tion (§ 2). Circular or Bank of England notes are most convenient ; the former have generally special agents, named in the letter accom- panying the notes; with respect to the latter, advice is readily afforded at the Consulate, as to how they can be most profitably converted. Before leaving Christiania, a good supply of change, or small money, must be taken. It is not to be obtained, except in large towns. The hours of business in Chris- tiania are usually from 8 to 1. Coffee is taken on rising Tand excellent it u ROUTE 20. — CHRtSTIANIA: HISTORY. Norway. is all over Norway); dejeuner a la fourchette at 10, and dinner at 2. All classes take off their hats on entering a shop, or other place of business, and a foreigner will not meet with less attention for respect- ing this Scandinavian custom. Christiania is the modern capital of Norway. Pop. about 70,000. This city was founded by Christian IV., close upon the site of the ancient city of Osloe, which, with the ex- ception of the Episcopal Palace, and a few houses, was entirely destroyed by fire on tlie 24th May, 1624. Christian IV. named the city after himself, happening to be in Norway at the time on a visit to his newly discovered silver mine at Kongsberg. Osloe was founded in 1058, by King Harald Haardraade, and in 150 years was, after Nidaros (now Trondhjem) and Bergen, the third city in the kingdom. Upon the union of Norway with Denmark it became the capital of Norway. 2 kings, Christopher III. and Christian II., were crowned there. The Ca- thedral of St. Halvard was very rich ; it was there that James VI. of Scot- land and I. of England married Anne of Denmark, sister of Christian IV.. in 1589. The streets of Christiania are broad, and laid out at right angles. But few of the ancient and pictu- resque log-houses remain. Most have been consumed in the repeated fires to which the city has been subjected, and in consequence of which a law has been made which precludes the erection of wooden houses within the precincts of the city. Since the great fire in 1858 an immense im- provement has taken place in the style and architecture of the houses, many of which are of noble dimen- sions. This fire took place in April, by which 60 houses were destroyed, and 1000 people rendered houseless. It broke out in the Skipper Gade in the very centre of the town, and long defied the efforts made to ex- tinguish it. The estimated value of fixed property burnt was 110,000Z., and about a similar amount of goods and movables — in all about 220,000?. The rapid strides that Norway has made in wealth and population give abundant hope for the future. The population of Christiania alone has increased 30,000 since 1815. There is a genius, and firm, quiet energy in the people, which, added to their patriotism, their ardent love of " Gamle Norge '* (Old Norway), will overcome all obstacles of climate and geographical position. " The city is so lovely in position, floating on the waters, encircled by hills and islands, as to need little adornment from art." The public buildings are not distinguished by originality of style or special mark of art. The chief merit of the New Palace over the very miserable old one in the heart of the town is its situa- tion, which is very fine. Tickets to view the palace can always be pro- cured ; the hours of admission are from 11 till 7. From the roof an uninterrupted and splendid view is obtained of the city, tlie fjord, and the surrounding country. The Storthing House, begun in 1861, is a handsome building. The site chosen is on an eminence at the beginning of Carl Johan Gade, facing the new palace. The Storthing meets here every year in October. Trefoldigheds-Kirhe {Trinity Ch.). The architecture well deserves the attention of a practical builder. The plan of the church is a very large octagon, with small projections on 4 sides for chancel, &c. This octagon is covered by a brick dome, painted and groined, resembling the roof of some of our best chapter- houses, but very much later. The dome is interesting, not only because Norway, route 20. — christiania: buildings. it is a brick dome of most unusual size, but also because all the groin ribs and arch ribs are of brick. The University numbers about 500 students. The Library, containing about 200,000 volumes, admirably- arranged, is well worth a visit. It is open every day in the week from 12 to 2, excepting Saturday and Sun- day. The Librarian, Mr. Keyser, takes great pride in showing stran- gers over it. The education of the students is gratuitous, with the ex- ception of a small entrance fee. The Collection of Northern Anti- quities is open every Monday and Friday, from 1 to 2. Though not extensive, when compared with that at Copenhagen, it nevertheless con- tains a variety of most interesting objects. Amongst them is a massive gold collar, and a number of other gold and silver ornaments found in the Agershuus district in 1834, whicli are supposed to have adorned a statue of Odin, and to have been hidden wh^re they were found upon the introduction of Christianity and spoliation of the heathen temples. There are several articles here with Eunic inscriptions upon them. Also a girdle and the knives used in the duel which prevailed amongst the lower classes in Norway till within the last 50 years. Each man began by driving his knife into a piece of wood ; so much of the blades as were not buried in it were then carefully bound round with strips of hide, the men placed close together, face to face, the girdle buckled round their waists so that neither could get away from the other — their knives were then handed to them, and they fought it out. This mode of fighting was known as the " duel of tiie girdle." Here also are the crown, girdle, and frontlet, such as are still worn by brides in the Bergen district, at least such as are chaste, as the unchaste are not allowed to wear the crown at their marriage, and, therefore, to be mar- ried without a crown is the direst disgrace a damsel of that district can incur. The Museum contains specimens of wood-carving from Nor- wegian churches (11th to 14th centy.) and a number of small rude statues in bronze of heathen gods, horses, &c. When any of these idols are found, the peasants usually refuse to part with them, believing they have me- dicinal virtues and heaUng powers, so strongly do the remains of idolatry still linger in the North amongst the lower orders. The specimens of weapons and ornaments in flint, bronze, silver, and gold are very in- teresting. There are also some fine old swords, bits of armour, and wood carvings. The National Gallery is situated in the University, and contains seve- ral pictures of the modern school. All of Tidemans are well worth looking at. His famous picture of the "Haugianer" was in the Paris Exhibition in 1855, and has great merit. Of landscape painters, Dahl, Gude, Fearnley, Frich, Cappelen, Echershurg, Muller, and King Charles X V. (who is no mean artist) have their respective merits, and most of them have established a name in Germany. The Diisseldorf school is well re- presented. Nordenberg, whose com- positions are in the same style as the Norwegian Tideman, and others, represent the Swedes. The collection of old pictures is hardly worthy of remark : the best are some pictures of the Dutch school. It is open on Sundays and on Thursdays from 12 to 2. Casts from some of Thorvaldsen*s lovely works form a great and valuable addition to the gallery. The Cabinet of Coins may be seen every Monday and Friday from 1 to 2, and the collection of models from 12 to 1. The Zoological Museum is open on Mondays and Fridays from 12 to 2 ; but to those who wish for admission fori any special purpose, 4 hrs. 70 ROUTE 20. — CHRISTIANIA: BUILDINGS. Norway, weekly are granted. The Museum contains some fine specimens of Scandinavian fauna. In addition to these there are the Zootomical Mu- seum, open on Saturdays from 1 to 3; the Collection of Minerals, on Fridays from 11 to 12 ; the Ana- tomical Museum, on Saturdays from 1 to 3 ; the Chemical and Metallur- gical LahoratorieSy to be seen every working day. The different collections in the University are open for public in- spection several days in the week, when a Professor usually attends, and with much kindness gives informa- tion with respect to the various objects to all who seek it. Should strangers be unable to attend on the public days, there is not much difficulty in obtaining admission at other times. The TJieatre is a detached build- ing, about the size of the Haymarket Theatre, very neatly arranged and decorated; the performers are now mostly natives; the entertainments consist chiefly in vaudevilles, trans- lated from the French, and operas ; occasionally the legitimate drama is performed. The performances com- mence at half past 6, and end at 10. The orchestra is good, and the theatre is altogether very respectably con- ducted. Close to the theatre is the National Bank, the Army Depot, and Free- masons' Hall ; part of which is used as a restaurant. In it there is a ball-room, capable of containing 1700 people, which is used on all public occasions. The Castle of AgersTiuus is situated on a slight eminence at the S. ex- tremity of the town, and commands the entrance into the harbour ; the ramparts, which are laid out in walks, form an agreeable promenade, and are much frequented by the in- habitants. The castle is supposed to have been built about the year 1302; the regalia of Norway and the national records are preserved within its walls. It was strongly fortified, and has withstood several severe sieges ; the last was under- taken by Charles XII. of Sweden in 1716. A meadow on the opposite side of the fjord, which is visible from the fortress, is still called " Svenske Sletten'* (Swedish Field), from being the spot where his army was encamped. Strangers are al- lowed to inspect the interior of the castle — a fine view over the iQord and harbour is obtained from the ramparts. On the western side of the keep are mounted 2 splendid brass guns, cast in 1620, and highly decorated with subjects in bas-relief; groups of barbarians fighting, admir- ably modelled and finished. These guns appear to be of Saxon or Ba- varian workmanship, and are said to have been taken during the Thirty- Years' War by the Swedes, from whom they were again captured by the Norwegians, and have ever since been placed here. They are used to alarm the city when a fire breaks out. In the keep there is a small collection of old arms and armour, to gee which application must be made at the "Artilleri Gaard." A large body of convicts (or, as they are here called, ''slaves") most of them very heavily ironed, are imprisoned in this castle, and worked in gangs. Here also^ in a room or cage formed of thick iron bars, was immured for life Hoyland, the Kobin Hood of Norway. His vices were inordinate love of the fair sex and theft. His robberies were, however, always con- fined to the upper classes, while his kindness and liberality to those in his own rank of life rendered him exceedingly popular amongst them. His crimes never appear to have been accompanied with personal vio- lence. He was a native of Ohris- tiansand, where he began his career. On being imprisoned for some petty theft, he broke into the inspector's room, while he was at church, and stole his clothes; these Hoyland Norway, ROUTE 20. — CHRISTIANIA: SHOPS. 71 dressed himself in, and quietly walked out of the town unobserved and unsuspected. He was subse- quently repeatedly captured and im- prisoned in this castle, and as often made his escape. On one occasion he was taken on board a vessel just leaving Christiania Fjord for Ame- rica. Previous to his last escape, all descriptions of irons having been found useless, he was placed in soli- tary confinement in the strongest part of the basement of the citadel — his room was floored with very thick planks. Here he had been confined for several years when one night the turnkey said to him, " Well, you are fixed at last, you will never get out of this, and so you may as well promise us you will not attempt it." To this he only replied, *' It is your business to keep me here if you can, and mine to prevent your doing so if possible." The following day, when his cell was opened, the prisoner was gone, apparently without leaving a trace of the manner in which he had efiected his escape. After a repeated and careful search, on removing his bed, it was found that he had cut through the thick planks of the floor- ing. On removing the planks cut away (and which he had replaced on leaving the cell), it appeared he had sunk a shaft and formed a gallery under the wall of his prison — this enabled him to gain the courtyard, from whence he easily reached the ramparts unseen, dropped into the ditch, and got off. No trace of him could be found. About twelve months afterwards the National Bank was robbed of 60,000 specie-dollars, chiefly paper money, and in the most myste- rious manner, there being no trace of violence upon the locks of the iron chest, in which the money had been left, or upon those of the doors of the bank. Some time afterwards a petty theft was committed by a man who was taken, and soon recognised to be Hoyland. At last he hung himself in prison in despair. The Steam-hoat Office is on the quay, and rarely open except iu the morning. A printed list may be obtained there of the arrival and de- parture of the different steamers all round the coast and elsewhere. Care must be taken to ascertain at the office for what length of time the list may be relied upon, as alterations are made towards the end of the season. The Passport Office is at the corner of Raadhuusgaden, not far from the Hotel du Nord. Shops. — Most of the shopkeepers speak English. The best houses of business are in and near the Kirke- gaden. At a corner of that street is I. W, Cappelen's hook and music warehouse. It is the best for books, maps, and music ; and for those in- tending to stay any time in Chris- tiania, it may be convenient to know he also keeps a good assortment of pianos to let out on hire. A tra- velling map, and the small Lomme- Beiseroute (or Road-book), pub- lished by the Government, or Ben- nett's Handhooh, will be found useful, as they contain the routes of the inland steamers. MuncKs map is the best. Roosen's is good, but minute, sometimes requiring a magnifying glass. It is in two sheets, price about 5 sp.-d. Waligorski and Wer- geland's is cheaper, but has not nearly as many places marked as Munch's or Roosen's. Keilhau's Amts Karter is the best geological map. For those bound to the far north Friis's map of Finmark cannot be too highly recommended. It can be purchased at Dybvad's in Ostre Gade. Take care to ask for the last edition of the Boad-hooh, as some of the stations are altered from time to time. Herr Cappelen speaks English, and is a most intelligent person. LexoVs, at the corner of Dron- ninggen's-gaden and Kirkegaden, is a shop for provisions, preserved meats, &c., and Duhrendahl's in Kirke Gade. 72 ROUTE 20. — ohristiania: carriages, etc. Norway, Carriages. — ^Mr. Bennett may be depended upon to supply travellers with carrioles or carriages. See p. 1 1. The plan, always recommended by Norwegians and others here, is to buy a carriole or other carriage; when this is done, and the purchaser wants to sell at the end of his jour- ney, he may be sure his loss will be from 30 to 50 per cent. Those who are returning to Ohristiania, and only intend to remain a month or two in the country, will therefore do well to hire instead of buying. In this case the bargain should be for so much a day, or week, the lender to pay for any repairs requisite from wear and tear ; the party hiring for those arising from accidental da- mage ; and to have the option of pur- chasing, at a given sum, instead of paying for the hire, should he wish to do so, within a time to be named. This is very advisable in case the traveller should alter his route and not return to Christiania. The value, of course, depends upon the build and state of the carriage, and the time it is hired for. The price of a good light phaeton without hood is about 20Z. ; a set of new double har- ness, with breeching, 3Z. lOs. ; a new carriole without springs costs about 8Z. ; with springs, 9Z. harness 45s. The hire of a phaeton, with harness, for a journey of about a month, costs about . a dollar a day ; a carriole, from 1 to 1^ mark. If going a long distance, by all means buy new har- ness. A new Carriole, with spring rests (not springs), far more comfort- able than an old one, may he bought from Christiania for 30 species. After 4 months' use, he will give at least ^ price for it. Humes, padded with leatlier, being used instead of a collar, the same harness readily fits every horse, and is of the most simple description. Do not be persuaded to dispense with breeching. Near the new palace there are some Tea-gardens, commanding agreeable views. A good band of German performers plays there most evenings in the summer. Kefreshments are supplied as in Germany ; admission, 1 mark. Society in Christiania is described by Lady Di Beauclerk as being particularly pleasant. Great hos- pitality prevails, and the upper classes are generally highly edu- cated, and particularly intelligent and agreeable. Winter is the gay time here; and "a traveller, trans- ported by the fairies some fine winter night across the North Sea from an evening party in Prince's Street, Edinburgh, to one in Prindsen's Gade in Christiania, would scarcely know, if deaf to the difference of language, that he had changed the scene." — Laing's * Sweden.* *'At a dinner-party the gentlemen rise from the table and return to the drawing- room with the ladies, when the old Norweginn custom is generally ob- served of the family shaking hands all round with their guests." In addressing ladies here, as in Sweden, you will always be on the safe side to address the married ones as Frue (my Lady), and the maidens as Froken. Madame and Jomfrue are the titles of the shopkeepers' wives and daughters. Those who have time and inclina- tion to cultivate an acquaintance with the language of the country will find it an excellent plan to board with some respectable family — this can readily be done, and upon very reasonable terms. It is not a difficult language for an Englishman to ac- quire, and a month or six weeks* assi- duity will generally enable an intel- ligent person sufficiently to master Norsk for all travelling purposes. The Environs of Christiania.— The Botanical Garden^ open daily, is about an Eng. m. from the town on the road to Trondhjem, and contains a good collection of plants indige- nous to Norway and the neighbouring countries. The garden is tastefully Norway. ROUTE 20. — OHRISTIANIA : ENVIRONS. 73 laid out, and from its elevated posi- tion afibrds a fine view of the town and fjord. Oscar's Hall, the romantic country seat of tlie king, overlooking the Christiania Fjord, contains also some objects of interest, and the row on the fjord to it is beautiful. In the banqueting hall there is a fine series of Tiedemans pictures — ' The Nor- Avegian Peasant's Life from Cradle to the Grave' — and some landscapes of Norwegian inland scenery, of con- siderable merit. The best views of the environs are obtained from Frogner-aasen, a point about 1500 feet above the fjord, from whence there is an extensive pano- rama of the country. In clear weather, to the W., the snow-capped mountains of Valders and Telle- marken are visible ; whilst to the E. the view extends to the frontiers of Sweden. Lakes, islands, forests, villas, highly cultivated meadows, blended with wild sceiiery, present themselves on every side ; in fact, whichever way you turn, new and picturesque groups and varied ob- jects meets your eye ; and the vege- tation, except where the naked rocks protrude themselves, is so luxuriant that, did not the bright blue sky, and occasionally the keen atmosphere, contradict it, the traveller might well imagine himself in S. instead of N. Europe. Scarcely inferior is the view from the opposite hill of Egherg, or Eckers- herg, to the S., about 400 ft. high ; it rises close over the old town, which is til us described by Von Buch : — " We ascended by nume- rous serpentine windings the steep height of the Egeburg; looking down from its summit, what a varied view is seen ! The large town at the end of the bay, in the midst of the country, spreading out in small di- vergent masses in every direction, till it is at last lost in the distance among villages, farm-houses, and INonvay.'] well-built country houses. There are ships in the harbour, ships be- hind the beautiful little islands which front the bay, and other sails appear in the distance. The majestic forms of the steep hills rfsing in the horizon over other hills which bound the country to the westward are worthy of Claude Lorraine. I have long been seeking for a resemblance to this country and to this land- scape : it is only to be found at Geneva, on the Savoy side, towards the Jura Mountains ; but the Lake of Geneva does not possess the islands of the fjord, nor the numerous ships and boats sailing in every direction. Here the pleasure resulting from the sight of an extraordinary and beau- tiful country is heightened by the contemplation of human industry and activity." Among the seats in the neighbour- hood, Bogstad, the residence of the Countess Wedel Jarlsberg, stands pre-eminent, and is worthy of a visit. The drive to it, especially, is very beautiful. It is situated about 7 Eng. m. W. of Christiania. From the back of Holgerslyst, a summer cottage belonging to the Stadtholder, a splendid view is obtained of the fjord and castle of Agershuus. There are several pretty drives in the neighbourhood of the town ; one to Mariedal Lahe, distant about 5 Eng. m., affords some beautiful views; another to Ladegaardsoen, which is about 2 Eng. m. from Chris- tiania on the southern road, and is a delightful retreat; the grounds are pleasingly laid out on a sequestered isthmus stretching into the fjord. This spot was purchased by the late king's father and given to the in- habitants for a public promenade. The views from it are charming, and it is much frequented. Numerous boats may be seen on a summer's evening, passing to and fro on the smooth surface of the fjord, and filled with gaily dressed visitors. A band plays regularly every evening; and E 74 KOUTE 20. — ohristiania: excursions. Norway. there is likewise a good restaurant on the spot. A pleasant trip may also be made to Mingeriget, about 14 Eng. m. on the Bergen road (see Koute 21). The drive to Prinsdaly about 7 Eng. m. on the Drobak road, is pic- turesque. The road is cut on the face of the cliff overhanging the fjord, and is a very fine specimen of Norwegian engineering (see Ete. 36). Some interesting ruins of a monas- tery have been uncovered in Hove- doen, an island lying about an Eng. m. S. of the castle. It belonged to the Cistercian monks, and appears to have been built in 1147, and dedi- cated to the Virgin and the Anglo- Saxon king Edmund. The first monks came over from England; at the Reformation it was secularised, and the materials were used to repair the castle. It is of sufficient interest to attract visitors, and the excavations are still being carried on. Steamers leave Christiania for Co- penhagen every Saturday at 8 a.m., commencing on April 3. They call at Gottenburg on Sunday morning, and reach Copenhagen early on Monday. The same vessel leaves Copenhagen on Wednesdays at noon, calls at Gottenburg on the Thursday morning, and arrives at Christiania early on the Friday morning, touch- ing at all the intermediate ports in the Christiania Fjord. Passengers wishing to go to the westward can land at Sandsesund, and proceed from thence by one of the numerous steamers which touch there on their way to Christiansand. The average passage to Copenhagen is about 42 hrs., of which some are passed at Gottenburg. Fare, chief cabin, 8 sp.-ds. For Kiel the steamer leaves, as previously stated, every Tuesday at noon, calling at Sandsesund also, and other places in the fjord, to take up passengers that may have arrived from the westward. Steamers to Hull once a week. Many persons who visit Norway are contented with going up the fjord to Christiania, and seeing a little of the country around the city. Those who do no more than this can form no just idea of the grandeur of Norwegian scenery. Comfort, during a journey into the interior of Norway, will much depend upon attention to the preliminary information given under the head of *' Requisites for Travelling," § 5. Excursions from Christiania — (a.) To the splendid Falls of the Glommen (Sarp-Fos) near Frederik- stad, and to Frederikshald, where Charles XII. was killed. This de- lightful trip can be most easily and comfortably made. A steamer leaves Christiania three times a week at 7 A.M. during the season, for Frede- rikshald (where she arrives about 3 or 4 P.M.), calling at the several towns and places in the fjord en route, including Frederikstad. From Frederikshald a steamer likewise starts three times a week at 7, arriving at Christiania between 3 and 4 p.m. on the same day. The captain speaks English; fares ex- ceedingly moderate, cuisine and wines good and very reasonable. Carriages are taken on board. A carriage can easily be obtained from Frederikshald to the falls. For de- scription of Frederikshald and of the Sarp-Fos, see Rte. 36. The scenery upon this short voyage is highly interesting ; and up the Swinesund to Frederikshald it be- comes most grand. This fjord is generally of enormous depth, and in parts so narrow as to afford scarcely sufficient room for two ships to pass, the granite rocks on either side rising almost vertically from the water, and towering up to a vast height, beauti- fully broken and intermingled with foliage of various kinds. There is a most picturesque view of the Fortress of Frederiksteen, from the fjord, shortly before Frederikshald comes Norioay, route 21. — christiania to bergen (a). 75 in siglit. The form of the rocks, with the winding fjord in the fore- ground, and the fortress crowning the hill in the distance, make a charming subject for the pencil. Those who may prefer making this trip entirely or partially by land can hire a carriage in Chris- tlania, and follow Rte. 36. (h.) To the Kongen's Udsigt^ an excursion of 2 days, by a beautiful road along the Tyri Fjord, should be taken by all, even though they go no farther than Sundvolden, along ]ite. 21, where it is described. ROUTE 21. CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEIT (a) OYER RINGERIGET, AND THE FILLE-FJELD. The Northern Boad. — Distance 49^ Norsk miles, or 346 English. Tourists have the choice of two other roads to Bergen, Rtes. 22 and 23. By this road the journey to Bergen (exclusive of any excursions which may be made en route to the Voring- fos, &c.) takes from 6 to 7 days. The shortest and best route is to go by rly. to Eidsvold, and thence by steamer to Gjovig. It will be well for the traveller to arrange his route so as to sleep the first night at Skoien, 3| m. from Gjovig, Reien the 2nd night, Nystuen the 3rd, and Leirdalsoren the 4th. The stats, from Gjovig to Skoien are Mustad, 1| ; Liess, | ; Skoien, If. The post goes twice a week be- tween Christiania and Bergen, alter- nately by this and the South road, Rte. 22. Forbud papers may be sent by the post for a trifling sum, which effects a considerable saving. Take care personally to ascertain at the post-office what day the post goes, and which road it takes. Enquire also in Christiania if any steamer is running upon the Rands Fjord, which lies parallel with this road for about 50 Eng. m. In the season it goes twice a week in 5 hrs. Many of the hills upon this road are very steep, so that, if you take a 4-wheeled carriage, it should be of the lightest description. Travellers will find a carriole by far the best and least expensive conveyance in all respects, both upon this road as well as all others in Norway. The only 4-wheeled carriage proper for Norwegian travelling is a light double-bodied phaeton, holding 4 persons. A good stock of small money is essential, as change is most difficult to obtain en route. Meat or white bread will probably only be found at one or two of the stations, and the Norwegian plan of carrying a box or basket of provisions, wine, &c., should therefore be adopted. The scenery upon this route may be divided into two districts, which are separated by the Fille-Fjeld. The views on the eastern side are of vast extent and great beauty ; the mountains upon a grand scale, and foliage most abundant — the effects at sunset sublime. On the western side of the Fille-Fjeld, foliage is com- paratively rare, the outline of the mountains and rocks more pictu- resque, and the scenery wild and grand. The most remarkable points are the Ringerige, the pass of the Fille Fjeld/and the Ch. at Bor- gund. On quitting Christiania, the road passes close under the new palace, which is seen on the right. Splendid views over the fjord on the left. At Stabsek the old road to Ringeriget turns off. Ours continues along a fine cliauss^e, and passes through pleasing woodland scenery to t Sandvigen i Bxrum, If, a pretty village on a branch of the Chris- tiania Fjord. From hence our route continues along a new and excellent road to. E 2 76 ROUTE 21. — SUNDVOLDEN — KONGEN's UDSIGT. Nonmy, t Humledal i Hole, If, pay for 2 m., but not returning. Near this station is an "Uclsigt,' or view, in- augurated by the Princess Sophie, in 1860, from which a lovely view over the Tyri Fjord is to be had. The Tijrl Fjord is navigated by a steamer communicating with the railicay from Drammen, on its W. shore. * t Vih i Hole, If. The old sta- tion Sundvolden {Inn affords good accommodation and fare) is passed on this route, from whence Krog- kleven can be ascended. Guides and ponies can be readily procured here. It takes 1 h. 10 min. to ascend, walking. The views to be obtained from the famed Kongen's Udsigt are splendid, and should on no account be passed, unseen, as they are the finest and most extensive in the south of Norway. Opinions differ as to which is the finest view. Ron- geurs Vdsigt (King's View) is about i an hour's walk from Johnsrud, and on the right side of the old road from Christiania. Dronning's Udsigt (Queen's View) is much nearer, and on the left of the old road. The King's View is the most extensive. From thence the eye wanders over mountains, fjords, rivers, and lakes, imtil it rests in the far distance upon the massive heights of the Gousta- fjeld, which, though 70 Eng. m. on the W., are distinctly visible in fine weather. One of the most interest- ing features of this sublime prospect is a mighty chasm, closed in on either side by walls of sandstone, which rise perpendicularly from the depths be- low, as if severed by some mighty convulsion. The best time to see the magnificent views from hence is at sunrise or sunset. Although the Gousta is far in ferior to Mont Blanc and the snow- capped mountains that encircle their Alpine monarch, this view has been compared with that of the famous descent from the Jura to the Lake of Geneva. It embraces two beau- tiful lakes, the Tyri Fjord and Holz Fjord, and also a magnificent and almost circular valley, sur- rounded by a chain of mountains, of which Krogkleven is a portion, all which is called Ringeriget, or Ringa Rege, after King Ring, one of the ancient petty sovereigns of Norway , whose dominion it was. On returning to Sundvolden, where tolerable accommodation may be had, the road crosses tlie Steens Fjord, a branch of the Tyri Fj ord. Sundvolden is but a short distance from Vik. About halfway between Vik and the next station the south road to Bergen turns off (Route 22), and leads to the Hoiiefos (good Inn, prettily situated near the confluence of 2 streams), which lies a short distance N. of our route. If not intending to return to Christiania by Route 22, this water/all should now be visited by following that road to the Honefos Stat. (1 from Vik), from whence there is a direct road back to our route at Klsekken ; dist. 1 m. * Klseltken i Hougs, 1\. There is a good inn here. Upon this stage the good road commands exquisite views over the Viuls Mv, which flows from the Rands Fjord into the Tyri Fjord, and the former magnificent lake is seen upon the 1., shortly be- fore arriving at t Hadelands Glasvxrh, I, situated at the southern end of the Rands Fjord. From hence the road con- - tirmes for some distance along the eastern banks of the Rands Fjord, which winds N. amongst the defiles of the mountains for upwards of 50 English miles. The Bands Fjord is navigated by a steamer, corresponding at its S. extremity with the raihvay to Dram- men. * t Kittelsrnd i Jsevnager, \\. Bo- Novwaij, tlOUTE 21. — HANDS I'JOKi). 7V tween this and Thiiigelstad there is a good parish road, which it is best to use, especially in winter. t Mosendal i Gran, 1% where there are only tolerable quarters. The road here is very hilly, and 3 hours, at least, should be allowed. t Smedshammer i Gran, f . Good road, but a filthy station. Between Grinagerinarken and Smedshammer, Kte. 27, to Trondhjem, turns off to the N.E., joining the road on the western shore of the Micisen at Krsemmerbakken, near which there is a very remarkable obelisk, for which see Kte. 28: for stations to Krsemmerbakken, see Kte. 27. From Smedshammer the route conthiues more or less along the fjord, and commands extensive views over it and the surrounding mountains. Vast forests of fir and pine are seen as far as the eye can range. The frequent appearance of the snow-plough, lying by the roadside, serves to remind the traveller that the way along which lie now rolls so merrily in his carriage will soon again become im- passable, except for sledges. From Smedshammer one can drive to -f Bokenvigen, 1, a stopping station for the steamers. t Sfondre Sand i Land, 1|. The road still keeps near the fjord. On approaching the next station, a moun- tain torrent from a small lake on the E. is crossed, which makes a fine fall before it enters the fjord. The road continues to command superb views over the fjord, and the mountains on either side become bolder. t Scliee i Land, 13. Good accom- modation and civil people. From hence a road goes off eastwards to Mustad i Vardal, thus : to * f Lien, on the cliausse'e, between Gjovig and Odnxs, on the Eands Fjord, \\ m., to * t Mustad i Vardal, |, to T. t Gj ovig, If. The road from Gj ovig to Skoien is excellent. The road from Hadelands Glasvserk to this place is more or less along the Rands Fjord the whole way, occasionally > commanding extensive views over it and the surrounding mountains, and occasionally shut in by vast forests of fir. There is trout and pike fish- ing in the fjord, the fish running to a large size; the shooting is also well spoken of in the neighbourhood of Eidsvold, and bears may at times be met with. The head of the Rands Fjord is now reached. "The fjord had gradually narrowed till it be- came reduced to its feeding stream, which we had to cross at a village called Tonvold over a wooden bridge of a singular and simple construction, thrown across a foaming cataract." — Barroiv's * Excursions in the North of Europe.* This stream is the Dokke. These Norwegian bridges are very remarkable. On each side of the stream a platform is levelled in the rock ; solid pine-trees are then laid close together with their ends towards the stream on these plat- forms of the width of the bridge, and extending about 3 ft. over the river ; above and overlapping, other trees are laid — then another layer parallel with the first, and so on, layer upon layer, each two projecting an equal distance over the last, until the span between each side is brought to a sufficient contraction upon the level of the road. Trees are then laid across the span ; rough planks across form the flooring ; side-rails are fixed, and the structure is complete. It does not depend altogether, how- ever, on this mode of construction, since several pines are driven into the bed of the river to serve as supports. In the mountain districts all the bridges are built in this primitive but substantial way. On passing this bridge, the road is continued along the grand valley of the Etne- dals Elv, which rushes onwards close along the roadside. This is said to be a fine sporting district — feathered 78 ROUTE 21. — CHRISTIAKIA TO BERGEN (a). Norway, game abundant, and many bears and ■wolves. Angling is almost unknown in the wilder districts of the interior, as the peasants* time is far too valu- able, during their short summers, to be spent in angling. * SJcofien, If. Good road. This is one of the best stations in Norway. From hence one can get to Finden in Land, If ; to Nos in Birid, If ; and to t Stolike in Vardal, If. * t Tomlevolden, If. Excellent fishing and shooting to be had all up this valley. Bears spoken of as very destructive in the neighbouring mountains. The Etnedals Elv is crossed just before arriving at * t Gravdalen i S. Aurdal, If, pay for 2 m. A good station. Here one gets the first view of snow in sum- mer. From Gravdalen there is now a new road up the hill, which sepa- rates the Etnedal and Bsegna valleys; it continues part of the way down the other side, when it joins the old one, and descends very rapidly to Frydenlund. From this place a road goes to t Krcemmermoen, f m., by Bangs Church. After passing for some distance across the mountain, from the summit of the western side a scene of wondrous extent of beauty is beheld. At the foot lies the noble Strand Fjord (1137 ft. above the sea), winding along a deep valley, while some snow-capped mountains in the direction of the Hurungerne Fjeld rear their gigantic heads in the ex- treme distance. The road now rapidly descends the mountain into the valley of the Beina Elvy and con- tinues to afford splendid views all the way to * t Frydenlund iN. Aurdal, If, pay for if. Game is abundant about here. Koad carried near the bank of the river, and then of the Strand Fjord, all this stage, near the end of which the Dal Elv is crossed. [From hence a road goes to Spirillen, thus : j on the E. side of Bsegna Elv to * t Krsemmermoen, 1| ; to Storsvean, 1 ; Sorum i Hedden, 2 ; Nsesmoen i Aadalen, IJ ; from which place a road goes to Strande, by water, If ; t Somdalen, If ; Honefos, If (p. 102). Excellent quarters at Kraemmermoen, and Strande.] t Fagernms i N. Aurdal, 1\. Ex- cellent large stat. Glorious scenery, with the Strande Fjord on the 1. nearly all the way. The peasants about here are a remarkably fine race of people. Somewhat of costume also begins; the men wear very short- waisted jackets, with large silver buttons and very gay waist- coats, and queerly shaped hats. Some of the old men are highly picturesque, with thin white hair flowing down their necks and each side of the face, surmounted by a faded red worsted cap. t Beien i Slidre, 1|. Good road, but a poor station; the accommoda- tion, however, is tolerable, and the people very attentive. The horses in this district are excellent, and about half the price of those round Chris- tiania. The staple food of the peasants is " grod," a kind of Scotch porridge, made of carefully boiled oatmeal ; mixed with milk it is very good and exceedingly nutritious. [From Reien the traveller, if he be a good pedestrian, may venture with a guide upon a five or six days' excursion to the highest mountains in Norway, the Jotumfjeld (Giant Mountains), part of which are the rugged mountains of Hurungerne. The excursion is fatiguing, and not without danger, and should not be attempted except in settled fine weather. According to Professor Keilhau, " the best plan is to ascend from the farm of Skreeberg in Hurum, towards the Eauhorn to Bituhorn, which lies J a mile to the N. of the former ; it is 5000 ft. high ; at the foot of this is the Steter Chalet Hodnstolen, 3250 ft. above the level of the sea. Crossing the bridge at Norway. eoute 21. — jotumfjeld — fille-fjeld. 79 the N. end of Vinstervand, you pass by Synslioiii to Hestevoldsboden, on the N. shore of the Alpine lake Bygdenvand, wliere the Mugnafjeld takes its rise. Passing the high Hestekampen and the valley of Lang- sidedal, you reach Bramboden and Bygdenvand; from thence you ascend to the extensive Lake of Tyen- vand. On passing through Kolde- dalen (cold valley), you get a splendid view of the Skagastolstinderne ; you then proceed through Morkakoldedal to Aardal, or Utnedal. In Helgedal there are some good chalets. From Utnedal you proceed down to Hegge in Slidre, where you rejoin the main road.'* For description of pedestrian route over the fjeld from Aardal or Utnedal to Gudbrandsdal, see Viig, or Laurgaard, in Kte. 26. This excursion may be made on horseback, for almost anywhere that a man can go a Norwegian horse will be able to follow. The Jotum- fjeld lies to the N.W. of Olken, and by taking the above route this road may be entered again at Leirdal- soren, upon the Sogne Fjord. From Olken the road continues to ascend along the left bank of the fjord. The Beina Elv is crossed a little way below the Mjos Vand, which is 1576 feet above the sea, and the road con- tinues along the rt. bank of that lake for the next two stages. The scenery is wild and grand, the moun- tains very steep, with much under- wood, which makes them a favourite resort for bears. Feathered game is also said to be very plentiful, and the fishing excellent.] A fine waterfall is passed on this stage. The next station is t Stee i Slidre, 1\. The shooting about here is well spoken of; rein- deer generally abundant ; fair road. t Oilde i Vang, 1. The buildings here are grandly situated. A capital road between Oiloe and Tune round Qvamskleve, which shortens the journey considerably. The scenery is of wondrous grandeur. Wolves are common about here, but are rarely to be seen except in winter. Even then they will generally avoid a human being, unless pressed by great hunger, and there be several together. In the winter of 1846 a peasant, when sledging on one of the fjords not far from hence, was attacked by a pack of 6 wolves. Fortunately he had his axe with him, and his horse was a high-couraged animal, who fought most gallantly with his fore-feet, as the wolves sprang at his throat. Between them three of the wolves were crippled, and the time occupied by the sur- vivors in devouring them enabled the ma.n and horse to reiach a place of safety. Immediately blood is drawn from a wolf, his companions fall upon and devour him. t Tune i Vang, f . Fair accom- modation. The stat. lies | Eng. m. from the road on the 1. The road still continues winding along the face of the mountain a great distance above the lake. At a little distance from Tune a magnificent road turns off to the 1. instead of going over the mountains. It is blocked out of the solid rock in some places, and runs close to the edge a good way above the Miv Lak, being protected on that side by solid pine railings. The buildings and costume become more picturesque. It leads across the mountains into Rte. 22, near the Ehre Stat. A grand waterfall is passed on this stage. t Skogstad i Die, If. Good stat., picturesquely situated. Here the ascent to the Fille-Fjeld commences, and 3 horses are again requisite for a 4-wheeled carriage, be it ever so light. There is excellent accommodation to be had at Nystuen on the top of the fjeld, and Maristuen, 1 m. be- yond, on the descent to Hseg. These 80 ROtTTE 21. — CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN (a). NoTWaj/, houses are kept by two sisters, who vie with each other in civility and attention to the comfort of their guests. Their provender is unusu- ally abundant and good, and the beds clean and comfortable. Charge reasonable. From Skogstad the road is fearfully steep in many places. Vegetation becomes very scanty, and stunted birch and mountain willow are almost the only trees to be seen. The wood of the mountain birch is beauti- fully veined, and extensively used in Norway for making ornamental and other furniture. The plateau of The Fille-Fjeld is attained some distance before ar- riving at * t Nystuen i Oie, 1, pay for 1^, which lies between 2 ranges of moun- tains, 3170 ft. above the sea. The trout at Nystuen are celebrated. They are from a small lake (the TJtza Vand) at the foot of the post-house. It is the source of the Beina Elv, which eventually falls into the Chris- tiania Fjord. A little distance to the W. of this place is the source of the Leirdals Elv, a small stream, which soon swells into a mountain torrent, and forms innumerable falls and cas- cades before it joins the S.E. arm of the Sogne Fjord at Leirdalsoren. The road there from hence follows the windings of this torrent almost all the way. From Nystuen to Leirdalsoren the character and costume of the people are peculiar, and totally different from those on the E. side of the Qeld. The women have fair hair, oval faces, and soft gray eyes; many of them are very pretty. Their dress is a tight boddice of dark cloth, buttoned up to the throat, and with long sleeves ; cloth petticoat, generally dark green ; buttons and ornaments of silver. The married women wear a white cap of very singular form. Those women who have had a child without being married wear a cap peculiar to themselves, and are called " half-wives." The maidens wear their hair in a most becoming man- ner : it is braided with narrow bands of red worsted, and wound round the head — the Norwegian snood. On leaving Nystuen, an admirably constructed road leads across the rest of the plateau. A pillar on the 1. marks the division of the districts of Christiania and Bergen. Soon after- wards the road rapidly descends the 1. side of a deep, picturesque glen, down which the infant Leirdals Elv bounds along. In some places the road is a great distance above the level of the torrent below. The buildings of a Sseter (mountain pasture attached to a farm) are passed on the 1., before reaching Maristuen. At night the cows, horses, goats, &c., are driven in, and, with their attendants, group round the fires which are lighted to keep off the bears and wolves. It is a wild and most picturesque scene. * t Maristuen i Leirdal, 1 J. This comfortable post-house is situated in a bleak country, the summit4evelof the pass being 3900 ft. above the sea. The skulls of bears, nailed up over the door, evidence the skill of the Norsk sportsmen. One of these men had a narrow escape from a bear near here some time since. In hot pursuit of the beast, which he had lost sight of, the hunter was running down the rapid slope of a mountain, when, coming to a small patch of brush- wood, he leaped over it, but had no sooner done so than, hearing a noise behind him, he turned, and had only just time to raise his rifle and draw the trigger, when the bear was upon him. Fortunately it seized the muzzle of the rifle, which, exploding at the same instant, blew its head to atoms. From Maristuen the road keeps close along the banks of the Leirdals Elv, through a magnificent pass ; enormous masses of rock, in many places, fallen from the mountains above, add to the effect of the scenery, and one of the wildest districts in Norway, UOUTiJ 2 1 . — FILLE-FJELD — BORGUND. 81 Korway is now entered, abounding in legend and romance. About mid- way to Hseg the road crosses the torrent, and soon after the S. road from Cliristiania (Rte. 22) is passed on the 1. * t Hxg i Lelrdaly 1, pay for 1^. A fine waterfall near the stat. On leaving here, caution the man who accompanies you on to the stage from hence to stop at Borgund. The road continues rapidly to descend, the tor- rent thundering close alongside all the way. The falls and cascades . whicli this stream makes between the Fille-Fjeld and the Sogne Fjord are most numerous, and afford fine subjects for the sketcher who delights in this kind of scenery. Some of the peasants' cottages are particularly picturesque. They are built of solid trees on foundations of rock, gene- rally one story high; when more than that, a gallery is made outside. The roofs are constructed with planks overlaid with birch-bark, and then covered all over with turf. The vegetation upon these roofs is very luxuriant, birch and alder are com- monly seen growing upon them ; and they are favourite browsing spots for the goats. Shortly before reaching the next stat., the church of Borgund is seen below the road, a short dis- tance off it to the 1. It is one of the two oldest buildings in Norway, and should not be passed unseen. The keys are kept at the clergyman's, close by the ch. This most singular and interesting edifice " seems to have been built in the 11th or 12th centy., for the arches and the ajise are semichcular, and it has all the characters of the style of a small German Romanesque ch., so far as it can be imitated in wood." — 0. T. N. It is of very strange fantastic design, with carved wooden pinnacles, giv- ing it almost a Chinese aspect, built of Norwegian pine, and protected from the weather by thick coats of pitch. The nave measures but 39 ft., the circular apse 15 x 54. A low covered way, about 3 ft. wide, runs round the exterior of the body of the ch. The belfry is of much more recent date, and stands some distance apart.* A ch. somewhat like this existed near Leirdalsoren. It was sold to the King of Prussia, and is now erected in Silesia. See also the ch. at Hitterdal, near Kongsberg, in Rte. 23. The old road from Bor- gund to Leirdalsoren was terrific, and several frightful accidents occurred. An admirably constracted series of zigzags now enables the traveller, with reasonable care, to descend the face of the mountain and reach the valley at its foot in safety. The scenery is wildly grand. * t Husum i Leirdal, |, pay for 1^. Some very bad hills on this stage. The road keeps the bank of the river almost all the way, and runs through a magnificent pass, at times so nar- row that the road is blasted out of the face of the perpendicular rocks. In one place it passes through a cleft in the rock just wide enough to allow a carriage to pass. These rocks dis- tinctly show that this road was for- merly the bed of the torrent, which now flows 100 ft. beneath, and that some mighty convulsion must have split the mountain ere the stream could have arrived there. In a nar- row part of the pass, the road is carried across the stream, a great distance above it. The views from this bridge both up and down Ihc pass are very fine. * t JBlaaftaten i Leirdal, 1|. There is very tolerable accommodation here. The road continues along the stream, which here abounds with salmon. Numerous traps for them are seen, of the rudest and most picturesque kind. Habitations increase as the valley widens, and the land becomes good towards Leirdalsoren. Before * See Ancient Norwegian Churches, from drawings by Professor Dahl; Dresden and Leipzig^. B 3 82 ROUTE 21. — CHRiSTiANiA TO BERGEiT (a). Norway* arriving at the village of Leirdal, a torrent from the S. falls into the river, which is soon after crossed for the last time. Many of the bridges on this stream are very picturesque, and truly Norwegian, being entirely con- structed of solid pine-trees, in the rudest manner. T. * LeirdalsSren i Leirdalyl. Ex- cellent quarters. Everything very clean, and charges reasonable. Though not a fast stat., there is sel- dom much delay in getting a boat- skydse to Gudvangen. This inn is much frequented, but as an annex has been built to it, accommodation may generally be found. However, beds should, if possible, be ordered a day or two in advance, in the latter end of September, when a large fair is held here, which is attended by the peasants of the surrounding districts. Their costumes, particularly those of the women, are highly picturesque. Leirdalsoren is a capital place for head-quarters while making excur- sions in the neighbourhood, many of which are of the greatest interest. It is a small town, where most things which the traveller may require, such as provisions, &c., can be ob- tained. Boats may be had for making excursions on the noble Sogne Fjord, and its numerous branches ; and guides, for shooting and other excur- sions in the mountains, where rein- deer, as well as bears, are sometimes to be found; and feathered game, including woodcocks, is plentiful. Take nothing with you on an excur- sion from hence but what you cannot do without ; the landlord at the inn will take care of your heavy baggage. Look well to your supply of proven- der, including some brandy. All present at the death of a bear or deer are entitled to share it equally, there- fore make your bargain beforehand with those who accompany you, if you desire that it should be other- wise. And beware of entrusting a second gun, when loaded, to an at- tendant ; promises not to use it will be forgotten if any large game is within shot, and after a long and anxious stalk, just as you are arriving within range of a splendid pair of antlers, a shot from your guide may spoil your sport. Instances of this have happened once or twice to English gentlemen. Leirdalsoren is the best starting- point from whence to visit some of the grandest Alpine scenery in all Norway, Skagstdltind, considered for some time to be the highest moun- tain in Norway ; but it will be seen from the Amts Karte that Galdho- piggen, in the Ymes Fjeld, is 423 ft. higher. Galdho-piggen is 8300 Norse ft. above the level of the sea ; Shags- tdltind, 7877 ; and SneeJiaetten, 7300. See Viig, in Kte. 26, and Kte. 38. Also, the Justedal mountains, about 5 Norsk m. N.W. of Leirdalsoren. Carriages or carrioles must be left here, and the land stages traversed on foot or horseback. The Norwe- gian horses may be as as safely trusted as the Swiss mules. The route to the Horungerne is as follows: From Leirdalsoren to Sol- vorn, 2| m. by water; Dosen, 1| do.; Shjolden^ f do. ; Fortun, J ; a heavy ride. A bridle-road goes hence to t Bosheim in Lomh parish. The voy- age to Skjolden takes from 10 to 12 hrs. Vide Ete. 38. [(a.) The Glaciers of the Justedal. — The way there is by water from Leir- dalsoren to Solvorn, in the Lyster Fjord, 2^, and thence on to Boneid, IJ, good quarters ; thence to Mylde- myr in Justedal, 2 m., where horses and a guide to the glacier can be ob- tained, 2 m. There is a good Inn at Boneid, but dear. A very tolerable bridle- road leads up the valley, and the distance may generally be done in 4 hrs., exclusive of stoppages. A guide is not necessary, for when once put in the way, the traveller cannot easily make a mistake. The track is along the bank of the Justedal Eiver, running through the narrow winding Norway. ROUTE 21. — GLACIERS OF THE JUSTED AL. 8§ valley of that name. Indifferent ac- commodation may be obtained in Krondal at the foot of the Nygaard Glacier. There is no stat., but a lodging at a gaard is generally to be had. At the Eectory some way lower down the valley the clergyman is most hospitable. "On leaving the Eectory and ascending the magnifi- cent pass there for about 1 m., you arrive at the finest of the glaciers, Nygaard. It is seen on the 1. ; and near to the glacier there is a farm where a peasant can be procured to act as guide. I found it impossible to walk on the ice without spiked shoes. The Justedal River flows from the glacier, bringing down with it vast quantities of detritus, which whitens the fjord for about 2 or 3 m. from the spot where it flows in. It took me rather more than 6 hrs. to ride from the Rectory to the glacier, as well as to inspect it and return. I slept at the Rectory, and rode back to Roneid the next morning. I was told that the mountains could be traversed from the valley of Justedal to Lomb, on the Vaage Vand, N.E. of Justedal, and that the journey would take 1 day from the Rectory." ~S.G. The glacier of Nygaard, with a course of less than 4 m., has a breadth of 1000 or 1100 yds., according to Durocher. Beyond the Nygaard Glacier* far- ther up the Justedal Valley, there are other glaciers, and tlie stupen- dous mountain of Lodals-Kaabe, 6798 ft. high, with its wild dreary scenery, is reached. " The glacier of Lodal is the largest in Scandinaviaj its esti- mated length being 51 Eng. m., and its greatest breadth above 800 yds. This is Durocher's estimation." — i^or6es' 'Norway,' p. 224, which see for further information on the glaciers of Norway. To the artist this region of the Justedal affords numerous subjects of the grandest description of Alpine scenery, many of the peaks of the mountains being covered with | perpetual snow. The dwellings of the peasants in this wild region are few, and those of the poorest de- scription. Bears are often to be found in the neighbourhood of the Justedal, as well as rein-deer in the Sogne Fjeld, upon the W., and feathered game is said to be abundant. (6.) lloutes from Justedal. — From Justedal to the Nordfjord by the Gla- cier of Lodal, Opstrijn Vand and Taaning. ' ' This is a very fine and interesting excursion. Besides traversing the whole length of the Lodal Glacier, on the ascent from Justedal, other glaciers of the district, including that of Nygaard, may be explored. For pedestrians also, this route affords a direct and convenient means of communication between the upper parts of the Sogne Fjord and Nordfjord. Three days should be allowed for the actual journey, and a good supply of provisions should be taken. *' On the first day leave Roneid early in the morning, ascend the Jus- tedal, examine the Nygaard Glacier, and then continue up the valley to Faaberg, where, at one of the prin- cipal Sjeters, tolerable accommoda- tion may be obtained for a night. " Leaving Faaberg on the follow^ ing morning, the path still follows the course of the valley. The glacier of Biornesteg is passed, and after walking for about 4 hours, the head of the Stordal is attained. Hence to the right a path leads over the Fjeld into Gudbransdalen ; in front is the Stygge, Bolt Breen, while on the left the tliird, and least steeply inclined branch 'of the Stordal is filled by the grand glacier of Lodal." " We crossed this glacier early in the year, while it was yet covered with a thick layer of snow, so that it was not possible to examine its structure and anatomy. It requires about four more hours of steady walking to reach the summit of the 84 KOtJTE 21. — JUSTEi)AL — SOGNE TJOED. Norway pass. We passed to the right, or E. of Lodalskaabe, a fine peak. Four tributary streams of ice tiow into the main river. By one of these, flowing just under and to the "VV. of Lodalskaabe, there is a prac- ticable pass into Lodal. Having attained our highest point, we crossed a vast field of snow, and then descended towards the N. by another noble glacier called by the guide Haraaldsfalden-Br?e ; but I have not been able to verify the name. The s&acs at the fall of this glacier were most beautiful, the ice of clearest blue. A steep descent over rocks, and a slide down a snow slope brought us to the lower glacier. Hence the view down the valley to Opstryn Vand, and the mountains beyond, is very grand. We slept at the small village of Gredung, and on the third day taking boat down the Opstryn Vand, and passing through very pretty scenery, we arrived in good time at Taaning (Rte. 24), where the quarters are excellent." — A. M. (c.) On returning to Eoneid, the route can be varied by taking boat to Marifiseren ; from thence ride 1 m. to Hillestad, and another to Nogeloien, where one of the steepest hills in Norway was formerly de- scended, but it is now converted into an excellent road ; J m. farther, either on horseback or by water, leads to Sognedalsfiseren, where there is very poor accommodation at the station-house. Thence back to Leirdalsoren is 4| m. by water. To Gudvangen, 4f. And down the fjord to Bergen, about 18. (d.) Again from Nygaard, a little N. of Justedal, a horse-track leads across the mountains to the Faleidet Stat., on the high-road between Bergen and Molde (Ete. 24). Or, from Nygaard another horse-track leads along the bank of a torrent to the N.E., and, after crossing the ridge of the mountain, descends to the N., and, passing the Lia Vand, leads into a splendid valley, which opens into Gudbrandsdal at Laur- gaard (Ete. 26). Soon after passing Horgven, and before coming to the head of the Vaage Vand, another horse-track leads due N. into the grand valley of Eomsdalen. See Etes. 30 and 38, on the high-road to Molde. No one must venture on taking either of these tracks who cannot support fatigue and the roughest food and lodging. Those who can do so will be amply re- paid. The following is a descrip- tion of the scene from the moun- tains at the head of Justedalen : — "Never shall I forget the view which then burst upon us; I can only compare it to some of the wildest I have seen of Lapland or Siberia, but it was still wilder and more desolate than those. A pre- cipitous rock, or rather an abrupt mountain side, sunk beneath me, and far below, on my right, was a wide sea-green lake, bordered by snowy ridges and peaks which over- hung its waters; and a cluster of small specks in the distance, which my guide told me were a herd of reindeer, added interest to the scene. In front rose the Lodals-Kaabe, the loftiest mountain of the range, to a height of many thousand feet, between which and the point where I stood was a ravine filled by a huge glacier, and on my left was the vale of Justedal. The stream which rushes through it issues by cataract from the lake, which is, I believe called Stug So." — Milford's * Norway.' For the Sogne Fjeld, see Ete. 38, from Leirdalsoren across these moun- tains and others to Eomsdalen. (e.) The Sogne Fjord. — This enor- mous fjord runs upwards of 120 Eng. m. inland. It has several extensive branches, each of which has its own name ; of these the Lyster Fjord and Aardals Fjord, upon the N. of Leirdalsoren, offer a variety of in- Norway. ROUTE 21. — AARDAL FJORD — MORKFOS. 85 teresting excursions to the lover of Alpine scenery ; but it requires the exercise of some nerve to trust one- self across the fragile bridges and along the narrow footpaths, with apparently unfathomable abysses and roaring torrents below. Pro- ceeding from Leirdalsoren up the Lyster Fjord and its branch, the Aardal Fjord, one of the dreari- est mountain defiles is that of the Vettie Gielen. From Aardal, a first- rate station, you first proceed by the little lake of Aardalsvand about f m., then through the valleys of Fardal and Svarlemdal. Near Farnds, in the neighbourhood of the farm of Vee, there is a fine waterfall, issuing from Rosdal, a small lateial valley. About ^ m. farther on is the farm of Jelde, where the stupendous defile or mountain chasm, named Gielen, commences. Here also there is a considerable waterfall close to the farm. About I m. from Jelde is the little valley of Afdal, the waters of which, descending from the wild chain of the Hurungerne mountains, precipitate themselves in foaming torrents, forming sometimes a suc- cession of waterfalls, at others exten- sive rapids. About f m. from Jelde you come to the last farm in the Gielen, called Yettie. From this point excursions may be made to the still wilder scenery around the Jotumfjeld, but these mufct not be undertaken without an experienced guide. The greatest attraction of this valley is the Morhfos, 1000 ft. high, one plunge into a chasm of perfectly vertical sides. It may be seen from above and below, and its beauty as it tumbles clear over the rock is inexpressible. (/.) The Aurlands Fjord is another branch of the Sogne Fjord. At Ur- land, nearly at the head of the S.E. branch of Aurlands Fjord, there is a very good hotel in a beautiful situation. It lies to the S.W. of Leirdalsoren, and separates into two large branches ; that to the S.E. leads to the valley of Flaam and its waterfall, and is well worthy the attention of the contemplative or artistic tourist. The numerous Bauta-stones to be met with afford evidence of many well- contested battles having been fought there. Proceeding farther up through Kaar- dal to the farm of Kleven, you enter the wild and picturesque region of the Sverrestein, througli which King Sverre, in tlie beginning of his reign, effected his hazardous and bold retreat towards Hallingdal and Valders. At Kleven the horse-track up the valley separates : one leads to the S.W. down the valley of the Bundels Elv, and joins this route again at Vossevangen Stat. ; the other runs across the mountains to the S.W., and commands splendid views over the Hardanger Fjord, the most N.E. branch of which, the Ouse Fjord, is reached near the Ouse. This is the most direct way to the Voring-fos from Leirdalsoren. In the Outer Sogne Fjord the scene of Frithiof s * Saga ' may be visited. Vangnses, where good ac- commodation may be procured, is generally considered to be the Framnses of the Saga, the birth- place and residence of Frithiof. In calm weather it takes about 8 hours to row from, Leirdalsoren to Vang- nses in a six-oared boat, and 12 to return. Balestrand is the site of the temple of Baldur, burnt by Frithiof. Near the ch. of Lekanger there is a Bauta-stone, 21 feet in height, called Baldur's stone. Some point this out as the birthplace of Frithiof. The Sogne Fjord and its branches abound in' waterfalls aiid cascades ; the scenery generally is grand, but sombre. In all the tributary streams there are salmon wherever they can get up. There is good wild-fowl shooting on this fjord. Seals are also frequently seen here. se EOUTE 21. — AITRLANBS FJOKD — NERO I^JOllD. NoTWay. Boute to Bergen continued from Leirdalsoren. — A steamer rims from Bergen to Leirdalsoren on Tuesdays at 8 P.M., and returns from Leirdal- soren on Wednesday mornings. If it be not the steamer's day, those who desire to proceed by water to Bergen must hire a boat at Leirdal- soren. There are water stations on the way, and the distance is about 20 Norsk miles. The stations from Leirdalsoren are — Fresvig in Le- vanger, 3 m. by water ; Fedjos, 11 ; Vangsnses, § ; Quamso, I ; and Kirkebo, 2|, all by water. [From Kirkebo there is a route northwards to Sondfjord, where Kte. 24 (Bergen to Trondhjem) can be joined. Vadheim, f by water; fair quarters, a splendid pass from there to Sande. Sande, 1| by land ; good quarters, and very superior people. Langland, 1 m. ditto, on Kte. 24. But if the traveller wishes to go to Bergen, he must continue down the fjord from Kir- kebo to Leervig, about 2 m., and there join Rte. 24. The time occu- pied by the voyage will of course much depend on the wind. At Leirdalsoren, as well as all the other water stations in Norway, the boats are under the management of the station-master, so that each boat has its regular turn of duty. Carriages and carrioles have their wheels taken oft' before being embarked, and the same boat takes the passengers. There is no convenience whatever for embarking and disembarking carriages upon these Ijords. With carrioles there is no difficulty, from their being so light, but 4-wheeled carriages occasion much trouble and delay, for fear of accidents in get- ing them in and out of the boats. Carriages are so seldom used here, that the boatmen require much attention to prevent damage being done. These boats are furnished with a large sail ; great care should be taken not to allow the sheet to be fixed, but to have it kept in hand, so that it may be let go instantly, as the gusts from the mountains are sudden and dangerous. The passage to Gudvangen de- pends upon the wind, and averages from 6 to 12 hours. Look to the provender before starting, as there is nothing to be had en route. When sending a Forbud on these long water-stages, so much depends on the wind that it is impossible accu- rately to calculate the time of ar- rival. The best plan, therefore, is upon the Forbud paper to order the horses to await your arrival, at what- ever hour it may be, and state that they will be paid for accordingly. Without this precaution, they would leave as soon as their time was up. About halfway to Gudvangen, on a bluft" to the left, at the mouth of Aurlands Fjord, is Fronningen, a small village, at which the crew, if rowing, sometimes pull up to make an attack on their provision-boxes. Too much cannot be said in praise of the scenery upon this truly grand fjord — the whole voyage forms a moving panorama of the finest de- scription. In many places the dark mountains rise perpendicularly from the water to an enormous height, upwards of 5000 ft., and are very picturesque in form. The absolute height of the precipitous walls can- not be less than 3000 ft. Numerous waterfalls are passed, and the atmo- spheric efiects are splendid. About midway up the Aurlands Fjord, a branch of it, the Nero Fjord, runs to the S.W. (which is our way), and the scenery increases in grandeur as the water narrows towards the head of the fjord. The scenery has been compared with that of the TJri Bay of the Lake of Lucerne. The boat- men will generally stop several hundred yards below the Inn at Gudvangen, unless made to row up to it ; they expect a gratuity of about 4 to 6 skillings each beyond their fare. The salmon and sea- Norimy. route ^1. — gudvangen — vossevangen — fjcerland. 87 trout fishing iu Aurlands Elv are well spoken of. * t Gudvangen i Aurland, 4|. Com- fortable quarters; but the charges are high, and in one instance the landlord refused to show the tariff of prices. This is the port of the Nerodal, or narrow valley forming a continuation of the Fjord. This place is situated in a very deep and dark narrow valley, closed in by moun- tains of immense height, 5000 or 6000 feet. Opposite the station, high up the face of the mountain, may be seen the Keel-fos, a fall of at least 2000 feet, but the body of water is small. Good salmon-fishing in the stream up this valley, and shooting in the mountains around. Those who in coming from Bergen desire to proceed from hence direct to the Justedal Glaciers (see Leir- dalsoren) can do so. The distance by the water stations from hence to Koneid is 7^ m. And hence to Skjolden (Kte. 38), over the Sogne Fjeld, is 8 m. [Stretching N. from the Sogne Fjord into the great range of the Jus- tedal Mountains, is the arm called Fjcerlands Fjord. It may be ap- proached from Lekanger in Systrand, a flourishing village with a good inn, where a boat may be hired. Near the ch. is a menhir, or bauta stone, 28 feet high. At the entrance of the Fjcerlands Fjord, on the W. side, is Balholmen, with a fair inn. The fjord is navi- gable as far as Stolum (7 hrs. from Lekanger). Above this the valley divides, and sends out from either branch a considerable glacier, that of Suphollen, which descends nearer to the sea-level than any in Norway ; and that of Boium; both several hours' walk from Stolum.] Soon after leaving Gudvangen, the road crosses the river, and continues along this most grand and pictu- resque valley, till all further progress is apparently precluded by the moun- tain which rises abruptly at the head of it. This is, however, ascended by a long series of masterly zigzags. A fine waterfall is passed on the 1., and near the end of the stage a torrent is seen to the rt., which makes a grand fall at its junction with the Gudvan- gen stream. The zigzags up this mountain, as well as those on the other side of Leirdalsoren, near Borgund, were constructed by a Norwegian officer. Captain Finne, and they are works of which any engineer might be justly proud. t Stalheim i Vos, 1\, Poor ac- commodation. The view down Nerodal valley from hence is very fine. Some little distance off the road, on the N. from this station, there is another fine waterfall of 1000 ft.— the Sevlefos. This stage runs on very high ground much broken, and with a good deal of wood and heather, old trees, and masses of rock, highly picturesque. Good shooting about here. ■fVinje i Vos, 1. During all this stage the scenery continues very fine. A lovely stream, near which the road runs all the way, is twice crossed. Just before reaching the next station, a fine waterfall of considerable height is seen on the rt. ; the water is sepa- rated into 2 falls, and then split into a succession of smaller ones, forming one of the most picturesque objects of the kind that it is possible to imagine. A curious old ch., close to the station, is worth seeing. t Tvinden i Vos, |; wretched quarters. Still a succession of glorious scenery, but the moun- tains gradually become less wild, and more like Westmoreland. The beautiful Tvinden Fos should not be passed unvisited. Several small lakes are passed on the 1., and the road, at length, descends into the lovely valley of the Bundals Elv, near the head of the Vangs Fjord, at t Vossevangeri i Vos, 1. Good ac- commodation at Fleischer's Hotel (the landlord speaks English), or at Madame Schlambusch's. This is an ROUTE 21. — CHRIS1:IANIA TO BERGEN (a). Norwap, excellent retiting-place and starting- point, from whence to visit the Har- danger Fjord, and Voring-fos, the Glaciers of the Folgefond, and the Ostud-fos, and from thence going down the fjord to Bergen; or re- turning here and going on there by this route. The Voring-fos lies some distance from the head of the Har- danger Fjord, about 7 m. S.E. of Vossevangen. The Glacier of the Folgefond is about 6 m. nearly due S. of Vossevangen, and halfway down the Hardanger Fjord, on the 1. bank. The Ostud-fos is on the opposite side of the fjord. The distances by water in making these excursions are so long, and the stages practicable even for carrioles so few, that those who intend return- ing to Vossevangen will save much time, trouble, and expense, by leav- ing their heavy baggage and carriage, or carriole, there, and riding the land-stages on horseback ; the same is advisable even if they should go down the Hardanger Fjord, and re- turn to Vossevangen by the direct road. Take care to replenish the provision-basket before leaving Vos- sevangen. (a) The Voring-fos. — The road there from Vossevangen is to the S.E. by way of Vasenden, 2 m. by land, returning pay for 2^; Graven, J by water. Eide, i by land (a good inn). The steamer from Bergen stops here. UlviJi, If. Good station on the Hardanger Fjord. From Vasenden a new road by the Graven coast leads down to Eide, f m., on the Hardan- ger Fjord, or to t Brakenses i Ulvik, 1^. The road from Graven to Ulvik is very hilly, and had best be ridden over. Thence down the Ulvik Fjord, and up Eid fjord to Viliy 1§ by water (inn not good). This can be done in one day from Vossevangen. The sceneiy, in a branch of the fjoi-d which ends at Use, should be explored. The time occupied in going from Vik to the Voring-fos and returning depends on the amount of fatigue the traveller can endure. For a good walker 85 or 4 hrs. are sufficient to go in, and the same to relurn. About lialf a mile beyond Vik, through a deep valley, shut in by towering mountains, the Eidfjord Vand or Lake is crossed to Sazbo, from whence the ascent to the Voring-fos is commenced. Beyond the lake up to the Voring- fos the road is only practicable for horses, which may either be taken across in the boat or ob- tained, together with a guide (who is essential), at Longrei, or Ssebo. In any case, much delay will be saved by sending Forbud from Vos- sevangen to bespeak horses, boats, and guide. From Vik to the fos is about 1^ Norse mile. " Some distance from the landing- place on the Eidfjord Lake, the path becomes rugged, and, bending to the 1., proceeds up the wild valley of Syssendal, twice crossing in its course the rapid torrent by frail and unstable wooden bridges. It then reaches a very steep acclivity, which is ascended by a rough, winding, zigzag track, in some cases a mere staircase formed by blocks of gneiss, but which is practicable for the horses of the country. On arriving at the summit (probably 800 or 1000 feet above the valley), a moor is traversed for upwards of an Eng. mile, from which a fine view is ob- tained of the snowy Normandsjokeln (on the N.E. 5500 ft. high). A de- viation is then made to the 1. of the path, and a few minutes' walk across some marshy moss ground brings the traveller to the 1. bank of the river, and to the Voring-fos ; but the fall is so deeply seated in a narrow ra- vine that the traveller is quite close to it before he is made aware of its proximity by the sound or other cir- cumstances, and a stranger without a guide might possibly search for it in vain. The height of the fall, ac- curately measured, is about 600ft., and Norway. BOUTE 21. — VOBIKG-FOS — OSTUD-FOS. SO the descent of the very considerable body of water seems to be unbroken, but it is a difficult and perilous task to attain a complete view from the dizzy point where the spectator is placed. This point is about 100 or 150 It. above the top of the fall, but the cliffs on the opposite side are more than doable that elevation above the commencement of the fall. The rocks near the fall are so vertical that there are no trees whatever on their faces, and it is only at a little distance that the oc- currence of ledges on the escarpments admits of a sprinkling of birches. A descent to the bottom, which is a ■ work of time and difficulty, does not repay the labour, as the view of the fall is partially obstructed by a projecting rock."— T. J. T. The best view of the fall may be obtained from the cliff on the N. bank, that is, the opposite side to the usual point of view ; a wearisome walk over quaking bogs and muddy streams. To reach this the river must be crossed above the fall, if there is a boat to be met with. There is sometimes one attached to a Ssster. Mr. Elliott, in speaking of the Voring-fos, says:— "The river falls perpendicularly, without a single con- tact with the rock, into a valley scarcely broader than itself. The body of water is, perhaps, equal to that of the Handek in Switzerland. It is the highest waterfall in Europe (except that of Gavernie in the Pyrenees) and the Lion of Norway." — Letters from the North of Europe. Mr. Everest visited this fall in the middle of March. He says, " It was now falling within a case of ice. Opposite the spot where I was stand- ing extended in a broad framework of icicles, reaching from the top to the bottom, green and glittering.". — Journey through Norway, There are two other grand falls, which are scarcely known to tourists ; they are a little to the N. of the Vo- ring-fos, namely, the Skyttie-fosj 700 ft. high, and the Bemhiedals-fos. A, small ridge of mountains lies between each of these falls. The streams from the last two unite, and flowing down Simedal enter the N.E. part of the Eid fjord. On returning from the falls, the way may be varied by making a detour to the S.E., ascending the mountains and returning to the Eid- fjords Vand by the valley of Hiel- moe, where there are several smaller but beautiful waterfalls. (b) The Voring-fos to the Riuhan- fos. See the latter in Rte. 23. (c) The Ostud-fos is in Steendalen, near the village of Vikor, on the N. side of the Hardanger Fjord, and opposite the range of the Eolge-fond. In going from the Voring-fos to the Ostud-fos, the best plan is to return to Vik, and from thence go down the Hardanger Fjord to Utne, 2 m., and from there to Vikor, 2 J. The fall is not far distant from the station. The Odud-fos is one of the most cele- brated falls in Norway. ' ' The height of the fall is about 150 ft., but the volume of water great. The water falls perpendicularly upon a ridge of the mountain, from whence it foams in cascades over vast pieces of rock into the valley. It is possible to pass behind the fall. The view of the fjord from the mountain above the fall is splendid." In going from the Ostud-fos by the nearest way to Bergen, a horse-path leads up Steendalen and across the mountains to the head of Samn anger Fjord, a branch of the Bjorne Fjord, and, proceeding down these waters, Ete. 24 is entered at the Hatvigen Stat, near Bergen. {d). The Glacier of the Folge-fond. — The ascent can be made either from Jondal, 1 m. from Vikor, on the opposite side of the fjord, or from Bondhuus, in the Morang Fjordjjsome miles farther down. Horses and guides to the glacier may be ob- tained either at Jondal or at Bond- huus ; and at the latter comfortable 90 ROUTE 21. — CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN (a). Norway, accommodation will be found at the farmhouse of John Bondhuus. " The Folge-fond is the most im- portant glacier-bearing f jeld of Nor- way. According to Hertzberg, Smith, and Naumann, the highest portion of the fjeld falls short of 5460 Eng. ft., which seems irreconcilable with the statements of Hertzberg and Von Buch, placing the snow-line only 220 ft. lower. The dimensions of the snowy and icy surface are irrecon- cilable with the supposition of so small a height for its supply. There are several small outfalls of ice on the E. side, of which the chief is the glacier of Buer, which descends to 1000 ft. (according to Captain Bid- dulph) ; another, and smaller, is near the hamlet of Moge on the Sor Fjord; but the most majestic outlet by far of the icy surplus is on the S.W., forming the fine glacier of Bond- huus, which descends to within 1120 ft. of the sea level." — Forbes' 'Nor- way,' p. 221. If desirous of crossing the penin- sula of the Folge-fond from Bond- huus, go to Ovrehuus, and sleep ; thence pedestrians with a good guide can cross to Odde (Kte. 23) on the E. side of Sor Fjord, in 4 or 5 m. The best starting-point to visit the Folge- fond Glacier is Jondal, where ponies may be taken nearly up to the glacier. (e) The Hardanger Fjord. — This unique and magnificent fjord and its branches, in addition to the scenery before described, abounds in cascades and waterfalls. The salmon-fishing is good on all the tributary streams to the Hardanger, where the fish can get up. Wild fowl ofall kinds abound in the Hardanger Fjord, and wood- cock, ptarmigan, &c., in the surround- ing mountains. " It is curious here to see the pertinacity with which the skua gull (called in Norwegian tyv- fugl, thief bird) pursues the smaller kind of gull when they have caught a fish, hunt them till they drop it from their beaks, and catch it in mid- air as it falls. The skua gulls always feed in this way : they never fish for themselves." — " Some of the best rein- deer ground is to be found in the neighbourhood of the Hardanger Fjord, viz. at Vikor, Graven, XJlvik, and Kinservik." Bears are numerous in this Amt. " Properly prepared for the campaign, and able to devote plenty of time to it, the bear-hunter would, I am confident, find the mountains bordering the Hardanger Fjeld a noble field for operations." — Sport in Norway. Boute to Bergen continued from Vossevangen. — The road is carried along the N. bank of the Vangs Vand, which resembles Windermere — the scenery becomes of a softer character, and numbers of waterfalls are seen in the hills, on both sides of the lake. The road leads down a valley of lovely pastoral character, with moun- tains gradually rising on either side, and clothed with verdure to their summits ; two small lakes are passed on the left, and the road then follows the windings of the Bundals Elv, which is here a large and rapid stream, abounding with salmon. It connects the lakes passed with that at Evanger, and eventually enters the Bergen Fjord. •f Evanger i Vos, If. The accom- modation is first-rate. This station is beautifully situated at the head of the Evanger Vand. There is a de- lightful walk through the hills, directly opposite the house ; the path will be readily found by walking round the head of the lake. Great numbers of salmon are taken about here with nets ; this place is a depot for them when dried ; also for pickled herrings. Both are excellent. The Rundals Elv enters the lake close to this station. Trout run large, and are abundant in this stream. Those who sleep at Evanger and desire to reach Bergen in one day, must start very early in the morning Norway. HOUTE 21. — EV ANGER VANO. 91 to do so. The time occupied by the journey is uncertain, as so much de- pends on the wind — under the most favourable circumstances it takes a long day. Look to the provender you must have with you for the day, as the accommodations en route are wretched, except at the next sta- tion, Bolstadoren. The Evanger Vand is but a short distance from the most eastern branch of the Bergen Fjord, into which its waters flow : it is small, narrow, and winding, but the mountains around it are very grand — their rocky sides rise almost perpendicularly from the water, while thousands of stunted birch and pine cling wherever there is the smallest hold for their gnarled roots. The slopes of debris are oc- cupied as little farms, the mountains above and around, in most cases, being so steep as to preclude all access to them except from the water. These habitations are fear- fully dangerous, particularly in the spring, after a severe winter, when avalanches of rock come thundering down the mountains, sweeping every- thing before them. Instances of this kind have occurred in Norway, where a whole village has been swept away. On arriving at the foot of the lake, if ordered in time, horses will be in readiness for the \ m. by land, which forms the rest of this stage. The rpad is alongside a fine salmon stream, the last portion of the Rundals Elv, and which connects the Evanger Lake with the Bergen Fjord. * Bolstadoren i Vos, 1, by water. Poor accommodation; salmon and trout fishing about here well spoken of. Those who are going to Ber- gen may sleep here instead of at Evanger, as they will be more sure of reacliing Bergen in one day. From hence a boat can be taken to Bergen direct, viz. to Bernsestangen, 3 m. by sea, and thence to Bergen, 3 m. The voyage is sometimes made in 8 or 10 hrs. ; but there is a steamer twice a week in 5 hrs. Pursuing the land-route from Bol- stadoren, down the Bergen Fjord, to the next land station, this branch of it (the Bolstad Fjord) is narrow and winding, but the scenery sublime. No wonder that these dark and fathomless fjords abound in wild legends — they look the paradise of water-spirits. In some parts th6 mountains literally overhang the water. Dalseidet i Haus, f by water. When there is floating ice in Bolstad Fjord, it is often necessary to go over Tosse Fjend, about | m. Miserable station. It takes about 1 hr. to get to Dale i Haus, f . Wretched quarters. A desolate spot, and not a dwelling to be seen. This stage usually takes 6 or 8 hrs., according to the wind. After proceeding down a small branch of the fjord, the main line is entered and continued for the rest of the way — the mountains very grand the whole distance, and in numerous places rising quite perpendicularly from the water — the strata of many of them twisted in the most curi- ous way. Numerous waterfalls are passed, some of them on a grand scale. No one can form a just idea of Norwegian scenery without visit- ing some of the sublime fjords on the W. coast. Nothing would be more easy than to construct roads along them, but the cost would be enormous, as they must be chiefly blasted out of the solid rock, and will therefore in all probability never be made. Winter, as before observed, is the season when the natives travel ; these fjords and lakes are then fro5;en, and traversed upon sledges with great rapidity. In the spring, when the ice becomes too thin to bear, it is tremendous work forcing a passage through in a boat, as is sometimes done. The boatmen in Norway pull slowly, but with great steadiness and surprising endurance. The large island of Osterden forms the W. side of the fjord, and not a single habita- tion to be seen upon it for a long 92 EOUTE 21. — BEEGEK : INNS. i^orway. distance — here and there a boat is moored; and looking up the moun- tain, peasants may be seen making hay on small patches of debris where the slope is so rapid that a single false step would plunge them into the tjord 1000 ft. below them. Goats abound here. The eastern side is thinly scattered with small farms, and looks a fine shooting-country. Game is said to be abundant. The mountains gradually decrease in height on approaching Garnses i Haus, 2f. This stage runs over a fine broken picturesque moorland, with mountains looming in the distance. In fine weather, on the S.E., the glaciers of the Folge- fond are visible about 50 Eng. m. distant. The scenery on tliis stage, in some places, much resembles Bor- rodale and other parts of Cumber- land. Lone, Two bad hills on this stage, and, on the whole, an admira- ble example of the up-and-down road const luc ted by the Norwegian farmers, who appear always to prefer going over the crown of a hill instead of along its side. The scenery con- tinues lovely, with bold hills and numerous coppice - woods of birch and alder. The first view of Bergen is obtained from a hill about an Eng- lish mile from the town, and the traveller should pause here to see it. It is beautifully situated, surrounded on three sides by mountains, and the fourth open to the fjord, with islands of lofty hills in the extreme distance. Numbers of neat villas, timber-built, and mostly painted white, are passed before arriving at the old entrance gate of the town. T. Bergen, IJ. (Here Rte. 24 round the coast is joined.) Inns : Hotel Scandinavie, fallen off— not well kept, and dear. Hotel Sontum by far the best, most frequented by the English ; charges not less than 1| sp.-d. per diem for board and lodging. Marten's Hotel, rough, but good. Comfortable lodgings are to be had at Mr. Pellet's, a confectioner's; at Madame Perre- guard's ; Skipperborger Hansen ; and these houses have the advantage of being cheaper and quieter than the hotels. The Hotel Scandinavie is on the high ground on the S. side of the harbour; and in the street beneath, called the Strand- gaden, running parallel with the port, is the Post Office ; near to which is the Steam-boat Office, and also the counting-house of Messrs. Alexander Grieg & Son, who act as agents to several of the London bankers, and will cash circular notes and bills drawn on letters of credit. Do not omit replenishing the purse with a stock of small money ; it is diffi- cult to obtain it except at the Bank, or at the post - office. Mr. Alex- ander Grieg is British Vice-Consul here, and most kind and oblig- ing to all who seek his advice and aid, which is highly valuable in this little-frequented but magnificent district. The office of Mr. Jansen, Banker, is open 9 to 12 and 3*30 to 5. Mr. J. speaks English. Those desiring to meet the steamer here, or at Christiania, should not delay going to the office to ascertain the times of departure, and ar- ranging to leave this place accord- ingly. Should the office not be open, which it rarely is, excejjt on the day the boat comes in, the manager may generally be found at the Bourse near the office. If travellers land or em- bark a carriage here, they should per- sonally see to its being properly done, as the people are sadly clumsy, being little used to handle anything heavier than a carriole. There is a crane on the quay, for the use of which, in landing or embarking a carriage, a small fee is payable. Look over carriage and harness, &c., carefully, and have damages repaired. Trust not to others, but see to it personally, Norway. ROUTE 21. — BERGEN: HISTORY; TRADE. 93 as Norsk workmen are slow, and re- quire much looking after to keep them to their work. For information as to price of carrioles, &c., see Christiania, and Preliminary Information, " Modes of Travelling." Carrioles are somewhat cheaper here than at Christiania; horses considerably so. Bennet's agent, Hans Hoyer, often has car- rioles, which may be hired cheap to Christiania. The city of Bergen stands in a bay completely land-locked, on the shore of 2 creeks or inlets, separated by a high ridge crovvned by the castle of Bergenhuus. It was founded in the year 1069 or 1070, by King Olaf Kyrre, who made it the second city in his dominions. Shortly after its foundation, in consequence of the advantageous position of its har- bour, and the privileges given to the merchants of the Hanseatic League, who had erected a factory thei e, it became the first city in the king- dom. This pre-eminence it main- tained down to the last few years; its trade is even now greater than that of Christiania: but as that capital, since the separation from Denmark, has become the seat of government, and also of the Univer- sity, it has rapidly increased in trade and importance, while Bergen has remained almost stationary. The population of Bergen is about 25,000 ; prior to 1815 it was con- siderably greater. The average rainfall is 73 inches per annum. The average tempera- ture is 13 degrees higher than that of Christiania. Previous to the Calmar Union, Bergen was the theatre of several remarkable events. In the year 1135 King Magnus was taken prisoner in this city, and his eyes put out by Harald Gille, one of the competitors for the throne, who, the year follow- ing, was himself murdered in the same place. In the year 1164, King Magnus Erlingson was crowned here by the papal legate, and in the cen- tury following. King Hakon and his son were likewise enthroned here. The plague which made such fearful ravages in Norway, first made its ap- pearance in this city. In the years 1600, 1618, 1629, and 1637, Bergen was again visited by this dreadful scourge. In the year 1665, during the war between England and Hol- land, the Earl of Sandwich pursued the Dutch under the command of Admiral Van Bitter into the harbour of Bergen, but was obliged to retire, the Dutch being protected by the fortifications of the town. Several of the shots fired by the English are still to be seen in the walls of the fortress, the cathedral, and other places. The English were the first who traded with Bergen; in the year 1217 King Hakon Hakonson con- cluded a treaty of commerce with England. This treaty is the more remarkable as it is the first com- pact of the kind which England entered into with any foreign nation. The English continued to pursue the trade with but indifterent success until the year 1435, when they were driven from Bergen, and a monopoly granted to the Hanseatic League, who formed a large establishment here, and carried on a very pros- perous trade until the middle of the last century, when the monopoly was abolished, and the port thrown open to all foreigners. In the year 1763 the last buildings belonging to the Hanseatic League were sold, and from that period the trade, being un- fettered, has considerably increased. The principal trade of Bergen at present is the export of sfock-fish (dried cod), cod-liver oil, and herrings. The take of fish on the W. coast of Norway may be judged of by the fact that Bergen alone usually ex- ports about 2,000,0000 specie-dollars' worth of stock-fish; 20,000 barrels of cod-fish oil, divided into first, second, and third qualities; and u ROUTE 21. — BERGEN: CHURCHES. Norwmj, from 400,000 to 600,000 barrels of herrings, which are chiefly pickled. The stock-fish mostly goes to the ports of the Mediterranean, the herrings to the Baltic, and the cod- fish oil to all parts of Europe. The cod are usually very fat when caught ; they are immediately gutted, and the livers thrown into barrels ; the oil which gradually rises to the surface is then skimmed off; this is of the first and purest quality, and called " blanc ; " it is used for lamp-oil and dressing and currying leather, as well as medicinally for consumptive and scrofulous cases ; the second and third qualities, brown blanc and brown, are obtained by boiling the refuse, and used exclusively for dressing and currying leather. In the months of March and April, when the large square-rigged yachts (^Jsegts) laden with fish from Lof- foden and Finmark arrive, the town presents a busy and animated ap- pearance ; the harbour is frequently crowded with from 600 to 700 ves- sels of 70 to 200 tons burden, besides larger foreign vessels waiting to receive their cargoes from them. There are two great arrivals of these Jsegts in Bergen, one in spring, another later in the summer, when 100 or more come in at a time. There are also some manufactories in the neighbourhood, but they are not of any note. The fortress of Bergenhuus, which commands the entrance to the har- bour, is irregularly constructed. It consists of three bastions and a rave- lin towards the town, and three bas- tions and two batteries towards the sea: it was erected by Olaf Kyrre, the founder of the city, and, previous to the union with Denmark, was the residence of those Norwegian kings who made Bergen their capital. An ancient tower ( Malhendorf Tower) in theN. part of the city, probably dates from their time, and there is a large hall, which has lost its roof. Prior to the introduction of artillery, it was considered impregnable. On the opposite side of the harbour there is also a strong fort. Previous to the Keformation, Ber- gen contained 32 churches and con- vents ; there now remain but five. The German or St. Mary's Church is the most ancient, and is spoken of by Snorro as existing in the year 1181; it is also the most interesting. This church is situated near the entrance gate on the N. side of the port, and is distinguished from all the others by its having two towers. It has a rich S. door, with elaborate mould- ings and some good arcade-work. The nave has round aisles with square piers. The chancel is early pointed. It retains some wood carv- ing of the late period. It is pro- bably of Dutch workmanship. The font is a flying angel, carved and coloured, the size of life, the basin held in the extended hands. Tiiis figure is lowered from the roof imme- diately in front of the altar. The pictures are numerous, but without excellence. The Cathedral is passed on the rt. on entering the town from Chris- tiania. The Sacrament is adminis- tered there every Friday morning ; there is much chanting in the ser- vice ; the priest is dressed in a sur- plice and large ruff, and wears a rich and highly embroidered scarlet mantle over the surplice, with a large crucifix worked on the back. The Cathedral school is a hand- some building near the cathedral. The poet Welhaven, and Dahl, the artist, are natives of Bergen, and were both educated at this school. Holberg, the dramatist, and Ole Bull were likewise born here. There are also several charitable and scientific institutions in the town. The Gallery of the Konst-Forening (Art Union) is at the Museum. It contains several pleasing specimens of native art. The best picture is by Jensen. It represents a Nor- wegian sea-king endeavouring to save Norway. ROUTE 21. — BERGEN: MUSEUM. 95 a Greek lady from being carried oif. The figures are of the size of life, and most carefully drawn; great truth and force in the expression of the heads, and the colour unusually rich and transparent for a northern artist. The Museum comprises a collection of northern and other antiquities, which have been found in tumuli, chiefly in the neighbourhood of Vosse, pictures, and a cabinet of natural history. The most interesting por- tion of the museum is the small col- lection of northern antiquities, com- prising sepulchral urns, arms, &c. There are likewise some Runic in- scriptions in a fine state of preserva- tion, and a collection of about 3000 Norwegian coins, commencing from Hako the Good, son of Harald Haar- fager, in the 10th century. Hako was educated in England, by King Athelstane, and by his aid obtained possession of the throne of Norway. 01)8. 2 Fonts of soapstone, from old churches, a relic shrine of bronze, with dragon heads in the corners. The lovers of antique furniture will be gratified with the sight of a most elaborately and beautifully carved oak bedstead of Dutch manufacture. Upwards of 200 years since, this bed- stead was brought to Bergen by a young English couple, just married. They settled here. The husband was unfortunate in trade, and soon after died, leaving his widow enceinte with her first child. Norwegian hearts warmed to the young mourner and her fatherless infant, and when they at length sailed for England, the widow gave this only and valued relic of her happy days to a family here who had shown her the greatest kindness. Their descendants pre- sented it to the museum, where it re- mains a token of British gratitude for Norwegian generosity. The pictures here are rubbish. The only picture here deserving notice is an elaborate specimen of the Byzantine school of the 11th centy. It came from one of the churches in the Sogne Fjord, where it is said to have been placed by one of the sea-kings, who brought it from Constantinople. This picture is in 8 compartments, representing the Persian king Chosroes carrying off the holy cross from Jerusalem ; the Emperor Heraclius attacking and slaying him, recovering the cross, and replacing it on the altar, at which the dead are raised up from their tombs beneath. Considering the great age of the picture, it is in a good state. There is an inscription round each of the compartments. The cabinet of natural history is somewhat rich in specimens of Nor- wegian animals and birds, particu- larly in marine zoophytes found in the Bergen district ; and has also some good specimens of fish. Those of the bear, red deer, and Beaver, still found in N. Sweden, as well as the exten- sive tribe of feathered game, merit the sportsman's attention. The amiable and venerable master of the cathedral-school points out with much satisfaction the skeleton of "my old friend," that is, a horse of the best Norwegian breed who served him faithfully for 40 years. In Norway and Sweden the horse generally attains a greater age, and retains his powers of usefulness many years longer, than in Eng- land. Pontoppidan, Bishop of Ber- gen, in 1751, published a folio volume on * The Natural History of Norway;' it was translated and published in London in 1755. The Theatre is smaller than that of Christiania. Here also the per- formers are Danes, and the pieces generally selected are those which have been played in the capital. There is a Hospital for Lepers here, the disease being by no means un- common in most parts of Norway. Bergen is a pictui-esque little city. The houses are mostly timber-built, 96 ROUTE 21. — BERGEN : DESTRUCTION BY FIRE. NorimjJ painted red and white, each, with its water-cask at the door for use in case of fire, from which Bergen, like the other towns, have several times suf- fered terribly. In 1488, 11 parish churches and the greater part of the town were consumed. One hundred and eighty houses were burnt down in 1855 in the west quarter of the town ; and nothing, humanly speak- ing, saved the rest of the city but the broad market-place, beyond which the flames were prevented from spreading. "One evening when I was at Bergen, the alarm of fire was given by two guns from the fort. I found that in a large, partly de- tached house some stock of com- bustible goods in the roof story had taken fire. There are many water cisterns in the streets and squares, and the sea is near. Portable pumps were quickly brought and inserted in the cisterns. Numerous fire- engines of a small class arrived, each with its banner ; there were plenty of fire-buckets, and in no long time ten fire-hoses were in full play. In spite of this the ridge of the house was on fire from end to end. The great difficulty arose from the cir- cumstance that the roof was covered with two solid layers of close plank- ing, above which were tiles ; and it was impossible to carry the water into the roof story. But, after throwing off the tiles, some active men were mounted with good axes, which they worked vigorously ; holes were made through the planking, into which the hose-nozzles were in- serted ; and then, almost against hope, the fire was subdued.*" — G.B.A. The streets are irregular, but, for the most part, well paved. The Harbour is the great object of at- traction. The fish market is held there on Wednesdays and Fridays, and should be visited. In point of language it is quite equal to our Billingsgate. Fish forms the prin- cipal article of diet here in sum- mer, and it is fine, abundant, and cheap. Mackerel, 3 for an English penny, and a large halibut for Is. Qd. In summer the port is usually crowded with vessels ; there are generally two or three English yachts. The stock-fish boats from the N., before alluded to, are very quaint and picturesque ; they will be readily distinguished by their high prows; the form of these vessels is of great antiquity. So prejudiced are the people who build and navi- gate these vessels that they will not make the smallest alteration in their build or rig ; they will not even avail themselves of the use of the windlass, and the huge square sail therefore still requires the same power to haul it to the mast-head as it did 1200 years since. They are clinker-built, and with great breadth of beam, but are not adapted for sailing, except in smooth water. It has been errone- ously stated that these Jsegts are perfect models of those used by the old Norsemen in their piratical voyages. " Their Drage and Orm were long galleys, with one or more banks of oars." — H. D. W. The huge row of Warehouses on the N. side of the harbour, several stories high, and running far back, are almost all filled with stock-fish ; that is, cod-fish gutted, the head cut off, and dried, without salt. These warehouses once belonged to the Hanseatic merchants. They are very old and curious. Many descendants of these old Germans still live in Bergen, keeping up the language and customs of the fatherland, as much as possible, to this day. There is a Circulating Library for native and foreign works, and one or two other good booksellers* shops near the cathedral. Travelling maps and the Government Road-book (Reiseroute) of stats, and distances, &c., may be purchased there. The best Jewellers' Shops are in the Strandgaden ; there may be seen the silver buttons and shirt-studs Norway, ROUTE 21. BERGEN: SHOP^ I ENVIRONS. 97 worn by the peasants in the Bergen district ; and also the crown and or- naments worn by the brides at their weddings. Travellers should endeavour to as- sist at a Bergen Farmer's Wedding ; it is a highly picturesque and enter- taining scene. Immediately the cere- mony is over, the house is thrown open to all their friends and neigh- bours, and feasting and dancing are kept up for several days. Each guest brings a present. The bride remains dressed in her crown and ornaments during all the merry-making ; the crown is so constructed that by with- drawing a pin it opens and falls from the head, and the gay doings of the wedding are at length ended by the bride dancing the crown off. Im- mediately she does so, the music is hushed, and the guests depart. The interiors of many of the peasants' houses in this district are extremely picturesque. The farmers make ex- cellent, but clumsy, rifles, and are, many of them, splendid shots, killing ptarmigan with ball. Tobacconists' shops are as common in Norway as in Germany. The Norwegians smoke to excess, and the constant use of tobacco in all ways renders some of them as objection- able in their habits as American backwoodsmen. Smoking at night in the streets is not permitted in any of the Norwegian towns. Just outside the entrance gate by the German ch. there is a Public Garden, where an excellent band frequently plays in summer. The views from thence are extensive and beautiful. There is an old custom still kept up by many families here, and in other parts of Norway, of sprinkling the leaves of trees before the house where a person dies ; and the rela- tions and friends of the deceased do the same before theirs. "Many of the watermen about Bergen have peculiar dresses and customs, and form a class by them- \Norway.'\ selves, like the Claddagh fishermen of Galway. They are called ' Streels.* Accurate information about them is a desideratum.'* — MS. Journal, W. E. C.N. The Watchmen in Bergen are armed with a most formidable weapon called " the morning star.*' It is a globe of brass about the size of an orange (in which are fixed numerous spikes of iron of about ^ an in. long), mounted on a staff of about 4 ft. The Marquis of Waterford, when at Bergen, some years since, was nearly killed by a blow on the head given him by a watchman with his morning star. The best General View of Bergen perhaps is from the entrance of the harbour. As you steam or sail in, the town lies before you in a semicircle at the head of tlie bay, backed by two rocky cliffs separated from each other by a deep ravine. Environs. — Many of the villas about Bergen are beautifully situ- ated, commanding lovely and exten- sive views; and the walks in the mountains which surround the town are charming. Some of these moun- tains, of which there are 7, lie quite near to the city, which makes its situation highly picturesque ; but the altitude of these mountains, which is upwards of 2000 ft., renders Bergen very subject to rain, so much so that it is calculated that the wet days here in each year average about 200. There are some horse-chesnut trees near Bergen, perhaps the northern- most place at which they are found ; but the climate of Bergen, from its proximity to the sea, is quite mild, when compared with that of the country a very few miles inland. From Bergen delightful sketching and sporting Excursions may be made to the islands on the W. and N.W., as well as to the neighbouring fjords. Boats may be hired for the purpose, as also men who know the coast well, and can be relied upon. Most of the sailors speak a little English. Look 98 ROUTE 21a. — BERaEN TO THE SOGNE FJORD, ETC. NoTWCa/ . well to the provender before starting. The islands abound in wild fowl- feathered game is abundant on some of them ; and at times red deer and bears are met witl] there. The sce- nery of the outer islands, widch are exposed to all the force of the ocean, is exceedingly wild. The two grandest fjords near here are the Sogne and the Hardanger. The Sogne lies about 7 m. to the N. The Hardanger is some 7 m. S. of Bergen. For description of these fjords, and the fine waterfalls, and other objects in this neighbourhood, see previous part of this route, at Leirdalsoren and Vossevangen ; also Ktes. 23 and 24. Those who have a yacht and a tent with them may roam about these magnificent fjords, and remain wherever sport or scenery may attract them. It is still such comparatively unknown ground that there is abundant room for enterpris- ing tourists to strike out new routes and discover new beauties in these as well as many other parts of Nor- way. The costume of the peasant women about the Hardanger Fjord is very picturesque, particularly their Sunday dress, which they will some- times put on to oblige strangers. Prints of Norwegian costume may be purchased at the booksellers in Ber- gen ; also views of the town. Care should be taken before leav- ing Bergen to ascertain the exact time of the steamers calling at Te- roen. So much of this excursion is by water that a carriole would be a useless encumbrance, and it may be doubted if one could travel from Vossevangen to Ulvik. It is there- fore better not to buy one, but to trust to the conveyances of the country. Provisions must be taken. The distances are by time, and de- pend therefore on the wind. At each station, before dismissing your boat, ascertain if another is to be had. If there is none, you must bargain with your former men to be taken on. The boats being seldom watertight, have some sticks or branches put un- derneath your luggage to keep it out of the wet. ROUTE 2lA. FROM BERGEN TO THE SOGNE FJORD, JUSTEDAL GLACIER, AND HARDANGER FJORD, BY UTNE, ROSENDAL. An Excursion may be made from Bergen, which will combine the Sogne Fjord and the Justedal Glacier with the Hardanger Fjord and the Folgefond, and which may be done very comfortably within a fortnight. Go by steamer to Leirdalsoren in the Sogne Fjord, taking care to ar- range your plans to suit the day the steamer goes, thence to Justedal Glacier, visiting the head of the Sogne Fjord (see p. 84). Return to Leir- dalsoren, or Gudvangen ; from thence to Vossevangen, as described in Rte. 21. From Vossevangen cross the country to the Hardanger Fjord at Ulvik (see p. 88), and across the w^ater to Vik at the head of Eidfjord. From hence the Voring-fos may be visited. Re- turning to Vik, take boat to Utne at the N.E. corner of the Folge-fond promontory. Utne. — The best quarters in the Hardanger, reasonable charges, and a very central situation. The Folge- Norivay. koute 22. — bergen to christiania (b). 99 fond can be ascended from here, by going to Bleyer, in 1 long day, re- turning to Utne at night. Thus :— boat to Bleyer, 3 hrs. ; ponies and a guide to the glacier, 8 hrs. there and back ; return to Utne, 3 hrs. Take the ponies as near as possible to the edge of the snow. Observe the Al- pine plants in this elevated region. If, however, you go to Odde at the head of the Sor Fjord, you must sleep there, or at Bustethun (see Kte. 23). From Utne to ViMr, on the N. shore of the Hardanger, 6 hrs. by water, near which the Ostud-fos should be visited. Here Rte. 23 may be joined, and Bergen reached in 11 m. ; but if the traveller wishes to see the rest of the Hardanger Fjord (and it is well worth it), he should proceed in boat from Vikor first to Bondhuus, 12 hrs., at the head of a small fjord on the W. side of the Folge-fond peninsula. The Folge- fond can be ascended from here, but it is better to do so from Bleyer or Odde in the Sor Fjord. From Bond- huus to Rosendal, 8 hrs. by water, one of the most beautiful spots in the Har- danger. There is no inn, but a lodg- ing may generally be obtained. There is a beautiful valley leading up from the fjord, and a waterfall at the head of it ; the baronial house is curious, as being one of the few ma- norial houses now left in Norway. It is a small stone building, erected in 1662. There is also a stone ch. of Ear. Eng. architecture, containing the burial-vault of the barons of Rosen- dal. The present owner of Rosendal is their lineal descendant, but bears no title, since the abolition of all titles in 1814. From Rosendal to Teroen is 4 hrs. by water. Here the steamer touches, and travellers can proceed either N. to Bergen or S. to Stavanger and Christiansand, as they have made their plans. On having Bergen. — Remember that towns are scarce in Norway, and therefore, if going to linger in the country, think well before starting of what you are likely to want, and provide accordingly. Above all, for- get not a supply of small money. For Steamers up and down the coast, which call here, see Rte. 25. Those who wish to shorten the journey from Christiania to Bergen can go by rail from Christiania to Eidsvold Terminus, and from thence by steamer to GjUvig on the W. shore of the Miosen (see Rte. 26). From Gjovig to * t Mustad, IJ by land. t Lien, |. * t Skoieny 1|; where Route 21 is joined. Passengers can book themselves and their carrioles from Christiania to Gjovig, which will be a saving of expense, and a day gained in time ; but they will miss Ringe- riget, and exchange the wild scenery of the Rands Fjord for the tamer beauties of the Miosen. Ti T T^ R A U \ { N I V KKSfTV OP v:AiJF()iiNrA. ROUTE 22. BERGEN TO CHRISTIANIA (b) BY LEIR- DALSOREN, THROUGH HALLINGDAL AND HEMSEDAL. The South Boad. — Distance 45J Norsk m., or 315 Eng. As to sending Forbud papers by the post, see Rte. 21. After leaving Hseg for Christia- nia, the horses are generally better F 2 100 ROUTE 22. — BERGEN TO CHRISTIANIA (b). Novwaij, upon this than upon the North Eoad, and where the loss of a short time at each stat. is not an object, a Forbud need not be sent, as the station-mas- ters have horses of their own, which they will usually furnish in about a quarter of an hour, upon being offered the " Halvaden," that is, 32 skil- lings per horse per m., as at country fast stations. But this plan, which saves half the price of the Forbud horse, should not be relied upon. This route is the same as 21, till arriving at Hseg, where the ascent to the plateau of the Fille-Fjeld begins. There the road branches off to the S.E., and ultimately again joins Kte. 21 at Vik, about 4$ m. from Ohristia- nia. There is much difference of opinion as to the scenery upon this road, some persons considering it finer than that over the Fille-Fjeld, and others not nearly so fine; but however that may be, by following Rte. 21 to Bergen, making the excur- sions therein described to the chief objects of interest on the Sogne and Hardanger Fjords, and returning by this road, the tourist will have tra- versed some of the grandest scenery in Norway. Or, instead of going direct to Christiania, by diverging from this road (as directed at p. 101,) the silver-mines at Kongsberg, the Eiukan-fos, and the town of Dram- men can. be visited en route. From Bergen to Hseg includes 16 stages, 4 of which are by water, in all 20f Norsk m. For particulars of accommodation at the station-houses, and the scenery and excursions on the way there, see Rte. 21. Do not forget a supply of provender, and plenty of small money. Travellers who wish to go by land from Bergen to Trondhjem can either go by Rte. 24 or else by Rte. 22 to + Hseg ; from f Hxg to f Slwien by Rte. 21 ; from *i SJcoien to -f Lien i Land, 1§ ; t Mustad i Vardal | ; T. t Gjovig, 1? ; t StoMce i Vardal, 1 ; t Grytestuen i Birid, 1§ ; T. f Lille- hammer, 1| ; vide Rte. 26. * t Hseg to Christiania. — The first stage is a very long one, through ex- ceedingly wild and grand mountain scenery ; a very steep ascent up zig- zags great part of the way. At Breistulen, halfway on this stage, the traveller has to rest | hr. Soon after leaving Hseg, the road crosses the Leirdalsoren River, as it comes thundering down from the Fille- Fjeld, and is then carried up the deep valley of a picturesque stream, which flows from the liJidre Vand. The highest part of the mountains is at- tained soon after passing this lake. The scenery here is grand, but of the most desolate character. A small lake is soon passed upon the rt. This is the source of the Hemsedal Biver, whose waters flow S.E., and eventu- ally fall into the Drammen Fjord. The road is now carried along the valley, down which the Hemsedal River flows to * t Bjoherg i Hemsedal, 2 J. Pay for 3§ going W. Good accommoda- tion. This is a *' fast station ;" that is, from the 15th of October to the 14th of May, 4 horses, and from the 15th of May to the 15th of October, 6 horses, are kept in readiness for the use of travellers, and for which the additional charge must be paid. On leaving! Bjoberg, the road rapidly descends; the Hemsedal River being close on the right all the way. t Tuff i Hemsedal, IJ. Pay for 2f , but for 11 going W. Tolerable ac- commodation. For making out a Forbud on this part of the road from Hseg to Tuff over the Hemsedal Fjeld time must be allowed for the ascent from Hseg to Bjoberg, and vice versa, the traveller coming from Christiania must allow for the ascent from Tuff to Bjoberg. Near here on the N.E. is the Skogshorn mountain, 5907 ft. high. Road still follows the 1. bank of the Hemsedal River, now become a splendid stream. The scenery along this noble valley is most grand and picturesque, and particularly so itorway, rotjte 2^. — kongsbeeg siLVEK-MiNti. iol from henee to the village of Gool, be- yond the Roe Stat. t Ekre i Remsedal, 1|. From hence a horse-road branches off to the N., through a wild mountainous tract abounding in lakes and torrents, to Tune, on Rte. 21. Upon this stage the scenery increases in grandeur, and the road, descending tremendous hills, crosses the river near t Lostegaard i Gols, 1. A short distance from Lostegaard the noble Hallingdal is entered at the village of Gool, and then turns E. Near Gool the Hemsedal River is crossed, close by its confluence with the noble Hal- lingdals Elv, where it makes a splen- did fall. The bridge here is worthy of notice. The descent continues very rapid during almost all this and the next stage, the road being near the river all the way. t Baffun i Gols, J. Pay for 1^ going W. Indifferent accommoda- tion. The Hallingdal River is crossed about midway on this stage, to the right bank, down which the road is carried for several stages. From Haftun a road goes to ^ Simdre i Aal, 2| (rest ^ hr. at EUefsmoen) ; Neraal, 1| ; Hammerboen, ^. t Nass, 1^. Good accommodation at Landhandler Larsen. The road here is 556 feet above the sea, and the descent becomes somewhat less rapid. The Hallingdal River flows through the Bremmen Vand, upon this stage. The scenery continues very fine. About f m. beyond Ntes there is a footpath leading up to a farm-house, where a fine view down Hallingdal may be had. In winter the road from Nses to Hamremoen is on the frozen lake, and in summer it may be travelled over in a boat, but this plan is not recommended. If wished, one can go hence by boat to Sorteberg. t Sevre, 1|. Bad quarters. Close upon the S. of this place the summit of the Eggedals Fjeld is 4230 feet high. This fine range of mountains extends from Nses to Green. t Aavestrud i Flaa, 1 J. The road still follows the windings of the stream on its left bank. Soon after leaving Aavestrud, the river runs through a small lake, and, on clear- ing it, flows but a little way farther before it enters the noble Kroren Fjord. t Gulsvig i Flaa Annex^ 1 1. Good accommodation here ; the people par- ticularly civil. The house is some little distance off the road to the left, and is beautifully situated near the head of the fjord, which is only 363 feet above the sea. A steamer runs three timesweekly on the Kroderen. Lake. This is an excellent place to stop at for a few days ; the scenery around is very fine ; fishing good, and shooting well spoken of. Bears are frequently met with near here. From Gulsvig the road is very hilly ; it is carried along the left bank, and commands splendid views over the fjord. Sorteberg i Krydsherred^ If. Pay for 2. A very hilly stage going westwards, requiring nearly 3 hours . When the ice on the Kroderen can be sledged on, which is generally the case from Christmas to the middle of April, travellers going W. should order horses to meet atStavnsesodden instead of Sorteberg. * Hamremoen i Krydsherred, 1\, Good road, but hilly. House beau- tifully situated near the Kroderen Fjord, on which a steamer runs daily. The silver mine at Kongsberg and the Riukan-fos can be visited by taking the road which turns to the right, a little distance from Hamre- moen, upon this stage, and leads through Haugsund to Kongsberg. The road keeps the bank of the river almost all the way to Haugsund, where it turns S.W. across the country to Kongsberg. Scenery beautiful all the way. The distance from Hamremoen to Kongsberg is 4 stages, viz. : f Praestegaarden^ If ; Krona, 1 ; f Saugsund, 2^ (allow ^ hr. to rest at Bjerndalen) ; Kongsberg^ 2. 102 ROUTE 23. — CHRISTTANIA TO BERGEN (c). NoYWaif* At Haugsund, Ete. 23 is entered on the way to Kongsberg. On leaving Hamremoen, after pass- ing the road to Kongsberg on the right, our route quits the fjord, turns N.E., and becomes very hilly. * t Oppegaardem, 1^. Upon this and great part of the next stage the scenery is fine, and the road turning S.E. leads down the deep valley of the Sognedals Elo. * t Vehme i Norderlmus, IJ. Hone-fos, 1. Inn, clean. Koad still continues hilly — scenery pic- turesque. The fine waterfall of Hone-fo8 is passed near the junction of the Beina Elv with Vials Elv, which fiows from the Rands Fjord. On crossing the Vials Elv, our route soon after joins the northern road to Bergen, Rte. 21, at the village of Norderhoug. This village is cele- brated in Norwegian annals. In 1716 the Swedes invaded Norway, and a party of about 200 horse were quartered at the priest's house and those a' Ijoining it. He was ill and helpless at the time, but his wife plied the Swedes with drink, and contrived to send one of her servants to advise the ofiicer in command of a small Norwegian force in the neighbourhood, who immediately marched, attacked the Swedes, and took or killed almost all of them. Good trout-fishing. t Vik, 1. From hence to Chris- tiania, as in Rte. 21. There are only 3 stages, together 4|. Bear in mind the magnificent views at Krogkleven {see "Rte. 21) f if not already visited. ROUTE 23. CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN (c) THROUGH DRAMMEN, KONGSBERG, OVER TEL- LEMARKEN, AND THE HARD ANGER. Distance 55| Norsk m., or 388 Eng. This third route to Bergen cannot be travelled in a carriole farther than Gugaarden, at the foot of the Houg- lifjeld. Travellers, therefore, who intend to go to Bergen will do well not to purchase a carriole, but to trust to the conveyances of the country, as far as Gugaarden. From thence to Odde, at the bottom of the Sor Fjord, the journey must be made on foot, or on- horseback. If the latter, the traveller will do well to make a bar- gain at each station, " f jeld miles " being loosely calculated. Passing, as this route does, through the cele- brated districts of Tellemarken and Hardanger, it commands some of the very grandest scenery in Norway, so much so that it is considered by many travellers superior to that over the Fille-Fjeld, Rte. 21. The valley, before reaching Seljestad, and that of Gronsdal, before reaching Sor Fjord, are sublime, and the views from the fjeld above, before the track descends into them, among the finest in Norway. But these districts are so wild, and so thinly inhabited, that, with the single exception of those at Drammen and Kongsberg, all the station-houses are very inferior, and those in Tellemarken wretched. None but the hardy — those capable of enduring very considerable fatigue and the roughest food and lodging— should follow this road farther than Kongsberg and the Riukan-fos. Norway. liOUTE 23. — deammen. lOS Tourists prepared to face these dif- ficulties will be most amply rewarded by the grandeur of the scenery, and the picturesque dwellings of the people and their costumes, all which are but rarely seen by any travellers, from the want of good roads and ac- commodation. To the true lover of natuie in her wildest mood, the ar- tist, the angler, and the sportsman, this line of country has very great attractions, which are increased by their freshness as well as their novelty. Tellemarken begins a few miles W. of Kongsberg ; excellent p:eneral shooting is to be had in this district, and its large and numerous lakes and their tributaries abound in trout and a variety of other fish. Look well to Rte. 20 for hints prior to leaving Christiania. After passing Kongsberg, even a carriage or carriole would be an encumbrance and ex- pense, and it will be found much the best plan to perform the land stages on foot or on horseback. A carriole can always be bought in any town when wanted, and horses are easily hired at the mountain stations, as elsewhere. A diligence runs between Christiania and Drammen. As far as Drammen all the stages are " Fast Stations ;" that is, horses are kept in readiness ; for which an additional sum is payable to that charged at the ordinary stations ; see Table, Preliminary Informa- tion, § 6. No Forbud is therefore requisite before Drammen. There is no post going to Bergen by this route. On leaving Christiania, the road passes close under the New Palace, and beautiful views of the fjord are obtained for some distance. •f Sandvigen^ I5. f Ves^fre Asher, |. A town stage from Ciiristiania : good road. About halfway between Christiania and NfBs, the Bergen Rtes. 21 and 22 turn off to the N.W. The road then gradually leaves the fjord, and turns S.W, through a hilly country covered with fir in all directions. t Ny - GyellehEeJc, |. Pay for I5, but returning for 1|. The new road avoids Paradise Hill, from whose summit there is a most exten- sive and splendid view of the valley of the Drammen, the town, and the fjord. Any one wishing to pass over it must make a distinct agreement. The road descends into the liighly picturesque valley of the Leir Elv, crosses that stream, and soon after joins the bank of the Drammen Fjord, along which it continues into the town. t Drammen^, 1. {Inns: Hotel Victoria is considered the best ; Hotel d'Angleterre, and one or two others. English spoken at the first two.) Drammen is beautifully situated at the mouth of the noble river of that name, at its junction with the fjord. The lakes, torrents, and rivers, which are tributaries to the Drammen are almost innumerable. Many of them rise in the mountain ranges of the Hardanger, and even farther N. They afford ample occu- pation for a host of anglers, as they abound in trout. Salmon cannot get higher up the river than Haugsund, on account of the fall there ; in the pool beneath it the best fishing is to be had. Though not in much re- pute as a salmon stream, the Dram- men may be worth trying in the early part of the season. In 186(5, the town of Drammen was entirely burnt down; the light of the fire was seen at Christiania. It appears from the amount of forced insurance with the State that this is by far the largest fire there has been in Norway for many years. The fire of any one house was communicated not imme- diately to the houses next to it but to those at the distance of perhaps a hundred yards, so that the town was on fire at several separate places at the same time. And with regard 104 ROUTE 23. — CHRISTIANIA TO fiERGEN (c). Noricay. to individual houses of good class, this was the rate of progress of the fire : signs of fire were perceived ; in I ten minutes, hy watch, the whole house was burning ; in fifteen minutes more there was not a trace of the dwelling to be seen, unless the stone chimneys remained stand- ing." — Prof. Airy. Drammen contains about 12,000 in- habitants ; it is divided into three dis- tricts, Hragenses, Stromso, and Tan- gen, and consists principally of one long street, stretching 3 or 4 miles along each side of the river, and con- nected by a liandsome bridge. The chief trade, like that of all the towns on the E. coast, consists in the export of timber and deals to France, Hol- land, and Great Britain, and no less than about 40,000 tons of shipping are annually employed. From Drammen there is a road to Kingeriget (Rte. 21), by Nordal, along the E. bank of Holsfjord and Tyri Fjord to Sundvolden. The road followed is a very fine specimen of engineering, being in many places built up of solid masonry, for 50 or 60 ft., on the side of the fjord. This new road avoids Paradise Hill. Should any one wish to pass over it for the sake of the view, a special agreement must be made. The scenery for 20 or 30 m. is very picturesque, and the coup- (Voeil, when you first catch sight of the Ringeriget Valley, with its ex- tensive sheets of water, is very striking. From Drammen to Nordal on this road is 1| ; to Enger, 1 ; thence to Sundvolden on Rte. 21 is 2| along the Holsfjord. [From Drammen a Railway \& open to the Rands Fjord, 56 m. 2 trains daily in 5 hours by Haugsund i hJcer (If) stat. Inns not good. Here carrioles and horses are waiting to convey passengers to Kongsberg. Skotselven Stat., Skjserdalen ; from this you may reach the Steamers plying on the Tyri Fjord (Rte. 21). The Railway is carried along the "W. shore of Tyri Fjord to Honesfos Stat. (Rte. 21), and at Rands fjord Terminus it corresponds with the steamer on the Hands Fjord.2 ^Haugsund i Eker, If. (Town stage.) Bad accommodation, though the place is populous for Norway. From Haugsund, the road crosses the Drammen by an iron bridge, and, crossing some steep hills, descends into the valley of the Lauven Elv shortly before reaching T. t Kongsberg, 2. Inn : Hotel Scandinavie, a large, comfortable house, near the smelting works. " Pop. about 5000. The town is beautifully situated on the River Lauven, and near it to the W. the Jonsknuden mountain rises to an elevation of 3054 ft., from whence the view over Kongsberg and the valley of the Lauven is very fine. Kongsberg is celebrated for the rich silver-mines belonging to the State, situated about a mile from the town. Hexahedral cobalt pyrites are also found here. By application through the innkeeper to the di- rectors of the mines, a permission to view them is readily obtained. The Ch. is a large brick building, and is one of the handsomest in tho country. There are also in the town a mint, a manufactory of arms, the government powder-mills, and the smelting-works for reducing and refining the silver-ore, and manufac- turing cobalt, as used in commerce. Specimens of the silver, of the co- balt pyrites, and of the various stages through which they pass, until the exquisite blue used in painting is obtained, can all be pur- chased here. " The rock at Kongsberg contains native silver and sulphuret of silver, with copper pyrites, iron pyrites, and blende, disseminated through it ; that is to say, in certain ranges of Norwmj, HouTE 23. — kongsberg to eiukan-fos. i05 tlie strata from 1 to 60 fathoms broad. This is called the Fahl- baand. The dip of the strata to the E. is from 50 to 80 degrees. The rock in the whole mountain is mostly gneiss, with layers of mica slate and hornblende slate. The vein does not bear silver when it leaves the Fahlbaand ; 100 lbs. of the rock in the Fahlbaand contain never less than i oz. of silver." — Everest's 'Norway/ p. 279. The principal mine is said to have been discovered in 1623 by a peasant-boy, named Grosvold. It was first worked in 1624, by Christian IV., and is about half a Norwegian mile from the town on the high-road to Telle- marken. On the way to the mines the stamping and roasting houses are passed. The principal entrance to the mines is through a level com- menced in 1716, by Frederic V. ; this is tolerably broad and lofty, and is nearly 2 Eng. miles in length; from this level you descend by 38 perpendicular ladders, of the average length of 5 fathoms each, a very fatiguing task, and then find your- self at the bottom of the shaft, and are rewarded by the sight of the veins of native silver. From this mine was obtained the famous mass of silver, about 6 ft. long, 2 ft. broad, and 8 inches thick, which is now in the Museum of Natural History, at Copenhagen. When at Kongsberg, an excursion to that fine waterfall, the Larhrti-fos, should be made. It is about a mile up the Lauven, above the town. The Lauven is a fine-looking sal- mon stream. See Rte. 25. Kongsberg to Skien. From Kongsberg a road goes S. to Skien, Porsgrund, and Brevig on the Christiania Fjord. The stations are t Tinnses in Hitterdal, 2|, pay for 3i, resting 1 hour at Jerngruben; thence f Seem oi Lysthuus in Hitter- dal, ^ m. ; and thence by steamer to Skien. Another road by land all the way from Tinnses is Sogaarden, 11; Farvolden, |; Soboden, 1^; t Ulefos, 1|, pay for If ; f Bergan, 1|, pay for IJ; f Fjserestrand, 1, pay for IJ ; f Skien, ^, pay for j. Total, 7| m. From Skien to Pors- grund is about 1 m. farther. A steamer runs on the Nord Sjo every week-day, except Tuesday and Thursday, from Fjserestrand to Tan- gen, near Tinnses, in about 6 hours, generally starting early from Fjae re- strand, and returning the same day. Holer's Hotel at Skien is very good. Kongsbery to Numedal. The route to Numedal is as follows : — To Svennesund, 1 ^ ; Gjellerud, | ; * Rostad, \\\ Stjerridds, | ; Mogen, 1|, ferry over. Bjorgesund and Moensund. Strom* men, 1 ^, good new road. *8kjdnne, I5 ; Liverud i Opdal, 1. [From Liverud one can also ride to Brosterud i Opdal, 2 ; to Kjonaas i Dagelien, 1|.] Bjorkeflaaten i Opdal, If ; Flaaten i Opdal, f, principally on horseback. The scenery in the neighbour- hood of Fennebu Fjord is extremely beautiful. Fair accommodation at Opdal, and good opportunities for shooting and fishing. Only a bridle- road from Flaaten. Kongsberg to the Riukan-fos. This celebrated waterfall, in it- self worth the journey from Chris- tiania, is upon the Maan Elv, which flows from the Mjos Vand into the Tind Sjo. It is a little to the N.W. of the Gousta Fjeld, which lies N.W. by W. of Kongsberg. There aie 3 ways from Kongsberg. First roadi dist. 12 Norsk m., or 84 Eng. Upon this route the same horse is taken Irom Kongsberg to Lysthuus, dist. 2f, pay for 3^ m., and stop 1 hour to rest horse at Jerngraben. Lysthuus, I ; Tinoset, 3, at the foot of the Tind Sjo. Vide under second road, N.B. — It is advisable to take F 3 106 EOtJTE 23. — CHRisTiANiA 1:0 BERGEN (c). Norway. a boat all the way from Tinoset to Haagenas. There is now a Steamer on the Tind Sjo. It leaves Tinoset three times a week, and returns from the head of the lake the alter- nate days {vide Time Table). The situation of Tinoset at the end of the Tind Sjo is very pretty, and at the inn there, very fair accommoda- tion may be obtained. From hence the Eiukan-fos is about 1 m. more. The best resting-place is Dal. The accommodation is very tolerable. At Omaes i Msel, there is a very fair inn, pleasantly situated close to the lake and landing-place of the steamer. By starting early from Tinoset, Dal may be reached on the second day from Kongsberg. The two great attractions upon this road to the Riukan-fos are the falls of the river from the Tind Sjo, between Tinnes and Ssem, and near the latter the interesting antique ch. of Hitterdal. Provisions should be taken from Kongsberg, and when ladies are of the party, plenty of wraps for the water-passage on the lake, which usually takes about 5 or 6 hours if the wind be tolerably favourable. To see the Riukan-fos, and ascend the Gousta Fjeld to advantage, 5 days should be allowed for the jour- ney from Kongsberg and back there, but it may be done in 4. In making this excursion, it is essential to send a Forbud, that no time may be lost in waiting for horses or boats, and that the best accommodations may be prepared at the stations, which are miserably poor. Second road, dist. 8J Norsk m., or 62 Eng. This is the most direct way for men to take, "and de- cidedly the best." — W. West From Kongsberg, keeping up the river immediately beyond the Larbro- fos, a by-way leads up the valley of Jonsdal Elv, by Moen, 1, to * Bolkesjoy 2. Moen is no longer a station, and horses must be taken from Kongsberg to Bolkesjo. At Bolkesjo, horses may be had, though it is discontinued as a station. There is tolerable accommodation here. From the hill above this station there is a fine view of the Gousta Fjeld and the mountains of Telle- marken. Thence Kopstand, i Grans- herred, If ; Tinoset i Gransherred, 1 ; Aastoen i Hofvin, 1| by water on Tind Sjo. Agree at Tinoset for Skydts to San den; Sanden i Mxl, 2 by boat. From Sanden take Skydts to Dal, 1, or make an agreement to take you to Riukan and back. Third road, dist. lOJ Norsk m., or 72 Eng. From Kongsberg to Bolkesjo, as in the above way, 3 m. Thence to Folseland, IJ (where there is decent accommodation to be had), and Tinoset, 1^. Between these two places there is a ferry to be crossed. Leave carrioles there, and proceed, as in first road to Dal, and the Riukan-fos, 5J. From Bolkesjo, one can also take Skydts to Graver i Hovind, thence by boat across the lake to Sand, ^ m. Graver, is a clean station. The scenery upon the Tind Sjo is mountainous and giand, and it abounds in water- falls. Bears are at times found upon its banks, and the general shooting is well spoken of. The difi'erence of level between this lake and that of the Mjos Vand, just above the Riukan-fos, is 1275 ft., which the River Maan therefore descends in the short distance between these two lakes. A steamer on Tind Sjo in summer. Dal. — The accommodation here is improved, and is the best to be ob- tained near the Riukan-fos. At In- golfslund, 1 Eng. m. nearer the fall, it is wretched in the extreme. Dal is therefore the only place to rest at while visiting the grand scenery about heroj and where horses and guides, both for the fall and also for the Gousta Fjeld, may be obtained. Mosquitoes abound near the Riukan-fos, therefore it is better to be provided with veils. Norway. KOUTE 23. — THE RIUKAN-FOS. 107 The Biukan-fos. — " About 5 Eng. 111. beyond Dal, the path contracts, so as no longer to admit a road by the side of the river, and we began to ascend. Above us were heights and streams roaring down from them ; below, the Maan foaming over the rocks. Many a waterfall did we pass this day which in other places would have been a theme of wonder, but was here with- out a name. At last we saw a Ugiit cloud of vapour resting on the side of the hill. The atmosphere around was clear, but it remained stedfast like the spirit of the waters ; this was the Riukan (Reeking), or smoking. We left our horses at a small plot of ground, which afforded room for two or three sheds, and then had more than a mile to go on foot along a goat's track, for the valley had now become nothing more than a great cleft in the rock. We crept forward, however, sometimes on a narrow ledge of the bare slate, nearly perpendicular ; at others, clinging to the bushes of bu'ch and fir, till the falling river opened upon us. It comes from tlie distance tumbling down a slope, and dis- torted by the rocks that oppose it, till it reaches the spot where they separate, and shoots into the depths below. It appears as fine and fleecy as white wool or cotton ; and though the vapour obscures everything near it, yet in looking over the clifl* you can discern shoots of foam at the bottom like rockets of water radiat- ing in every direction. A low sound and vibration appear to come from beneath one's feet. As I hung half giddy on the steep, and turned my eyes opposite to the mountain mass that breasted me, its black sides seemingly within a stones throw, and its snowy head far in the clouds above, my thoughts involuntarily turned to Him at whose bidding it upsprung. I long gazed upon this wonderful scene, which seemed like the end of the world. It still floats before me like a dream." — Everest's ' Norway,' p. 30. Estimates of the height of the Riukan-fos are various ; the most probable is about 600 ft. The body of water is very great ; greater than that of the Voring-fos. " There is a legend connected with this fall. It is called * the Marie Stigen' — that path over the moun- tain, on the brink of the precipice of the Riukan, which even at this day the traveller treads with fear, and which was discovered by a young maiden strong in the courage of love. It was by this path that the beau- tiful Marie of Westfjordalen went with light and fearless step to meet the friend of her childhood, Ejstein Halfoordsen. But the avarice of her father separated them, and Mary's tears and prayers prevailed upon her lover to fly, to escape the plot formed by a treacherous rival against his life. Years passed, and Mary was firm in her constancy. Her father died; Ejstein had, by his valour and nobleness, made his former enemy his friend; and after their long separation the lovers were to meet again never to be sei)arated. Ejstein hastened by the shortest way, the Marie-Stigen, to meet his be- loved. Long had she watched for him. She saw him coming, and his name burst from her with a joyful cry. He saw, and rushed to meet her, but fell, and the Riukan whirled him into its foaming depths. For many years after this, a pale form, in whose beautiful eyes a quiet madness spoke, wandered daily on the Marie Stigen, and seemed to talk with some one in the abyss below. There she went, till a merciful voice summoned her to joy and rest in the arms of her belovod." — Frederica Bremer's * Strife and Peace.' The Gousta Fjeld may also be con- veniently ascended from Dal ; and it is well worth while to devote a day (10 hrs.) to the expedition, which is very enjoyable. The summit is of a 108 EOUTE 23.— CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEK (o). Novway, singular wedge-like form, the highest ' point being 5688 ft. The view from this mountain is of enormous extent, particularly towards the E., where the eye ranges over the magnificent district of Ringeriget, as far as Krogkleven, on the Bergen road, Rte. 21, a distance of 70 Eng. m. From Dal to Kongsberg. If returning to Kongsberg, there are two roads by which the route can be varied. First, by taking the horse-track, which leads from Dal up the 1. bank of the Maan, through Ingolfslund, and Vaa, to Holvik, at the foot of the Mjos Vand ; and from there crossing the Maan, and taking another horse -track through the mountains (a long stage of about 2 1 m.), to Foseim, and entering the road to Kongsberg, near Mselandsmo, 7 m. from Kongsberg. By this way from Dal to Kongsberg is about 14 m. The second is by another horse- track, which crosses the Maan be- tween Dal and Ingolfslund, passes along the foot of the Gousta Fjeld, and then to the E. of several small lakes, through Boen and Oystul, down the valley of the Skangs Mv, and entering the road to Kongsberg at the Mossebo Stat., dist. 5| m. from Kongsberg (see this Rte.). By this way it is. about 11 m. from Dal to Kongsberg. Dal to Bergen. For those who choose this route, it is best to sleep at Raaland, on the Totak Vand. From Dal there is a horse-track up the valley to Holvik, across tlie Maan, and along the end of the S. branch of the Mjon Vand to Gaards- jord, thence across the Totak Vand (a lake 15 m. long, and from 1 to 6 m. wide, not remarkable for scenery) to Kosthveit, and entering this route at Jamsgaard, 18 m. from Kongsberg or it is possible to get a boat on the Totak Vand, and proceed up to its head at Odegaarden, which is about 1 m. from Gugaarden, 3 m. farther to the W. on this road to Bergen. But this route must only be attempted by pedestrians, and they must expect to rough it. It requires two long days to go from Dal to Gugaarden by this route ; bad quarters are to be ex- pected, and there is sometimes a difficulty in getting a horse or horses necessary to carry the knapsacks, provisions, &c. In crossing from Holvik to the other branch of the Mjos Vand, the track leads over the shoulder of Bosnuten, from the top of which there is one of the most extensive views in Norway. The horizon on the W. and N.W. is bounded by the wall of the Har- danger Fjeld : in the foreground the lovely Mjos Vand winds N.W. into the heart of the mountains ; while to the S. a line of peaks extends from Lie Fjeld, on the E., to the hills beyond Vinje, on the W. By this route the pedestrian will, per- haps, see more of the real character of the wilds of Tellemarken than by following the regular track from Kongsberg to Jamsgaard; but he must be prepared for much discom- fort, and, further, he will miss the ch. of Hitterdal, though, if he intend to visit the Fille-Fjeld, he may see one of the same character at Bor- gund. Some time is saved also by not returning to Kongsberg. From Dal to Jamsgaard is about 6| m. The Riukan to the Voring-fos. Those desirous of going the most direct way to Bergen from the Riukan-fos can take the Voring-fos en route. In a direct line it lies about 9 m. N.W. of the Riukan-fos; but the country is so mountainous, and the track consequently so cir- cuitous, that by the following way it is fully 17 N. m., or 119 Eng. The best route, though the longest, is to Nonoay. route 23. — riukan to the voring-i'OS. 10^ follow the route from Dal to Bergen (see above). Let those who take it beware of attempting short cuts, unless so ad- vised by their guide; nothing is more deceptive or dangerous in such a tract and country as this is. After leaving the Tind Sjo, there are no regular stations all the way to the Voring-fos, and the distances be- tween those places where any food or shelter is to be obtained are very long ; and when such places are arrived at, the accommodations are miserable. It is therefore essential to take food for this journey, and it should only be attempted on horse- back. The way from Dal is down the valley of the Maan to the Tind Sjo, and across it to Sjothveit ; or turning off at Msel near the lake, and keeping round the W. end of it to Mareim, near the village of Tind, and then continuing round the lake to Sjothveit. From here the track leads through Luraas to Skaa- lebo up the valley of the Osboigd Elv. Continuing from Skaalebo, the track crosses the mountains of the Tessung Fjeld into the wild valley of the Bjornedals Elv, on entering which, at Bjorkeflaaten, our track turns up the valley, and keeps to the W. through Flaaten, and across high tableland, barren and desolate, to Nybu, a short distance N. of the Haarteigen mountain, 5700 ft. high. From Nybu the track keeps to the N.W. through Maursset to theVormg- fos. For description, see Rte. 21. As this way is very seldom tra- versed, even by the natives, great care should be taken not to start without a guide who is well ac- quainted with it. And it should not be attempted except in summer, as the habitations are so wide apart that it would be highly dangerous to be caught in a snow-storm. When snow is upon the ground, the tracks are exceedingly difficult to distin- guish, even by the most experienced guides, and wolves become very daring. Above all, let those who value their safety in this vast and desert region beware how they at- tempt to traverse it without local guides. Mr. Forester and Captain Biddulph are among the few who have crossed this part of the fjeld, but by a slightly different route. They seem to have taken their de- parture from the head of MjosVand, shaped their course N.N.W. to Nor- mands-Laagen, a desolate lake, near which the highest point seems to have been reached, where the streams began to flow westwards towards Hardanger. They followed one of these down to Eidfjord. This was in 1849. They published an account of their tour on their return, Fores- ters 'Norway in 1848 and 1849.* Their route was as follows : — From Dal to Vaagen on the Mjos Vand, 4 m. ; Kevenna, a farm at the foot of the Hardanger Fjeld, 4 m. ; Laagen Vand, 6 m. ; Ssebo, in Eidfjord, 5 m. ; The Voring-fos is about 1 m. E. of Ssebo. The direct Route to Bergen con- tinued. — From Kongsberg a road leads down the valley of the Lauven to Laurvig, and other towns upon the Christiania Fjord. See Rte. 25. Our road keeps along the rt. bank of the river for some distance, and then turns off to the W. up the valley of the Kaaberbergs Elv. This is a long and very hilly stage. About halfway upon it the Tellemarken District is entered, alike famous for its wildness, its poverty, and the picturesque costmne and appearance of the peasants, who, witn the in- teriors of their smoke-dried houses, afford a great variety of subjects for the pencil. t Tinnxs i Hitterdal, 2^ ; pay 3^ ; and rest 1 hr. at Jerngruben. Tin- nsBs is no longer a station. See above for stage and distance from Kongsberg to Lysthuus. A short distance from hence a road is passed on the 1., which leads S.E. to the town of Skien (seep. 105). The stream 110 KTE. 23. — CHRtSTIANIA TO feERGEN (O)* — HITTEIIDAL. NoTWCiy, from tlie Tind Sjo is then crossed, which makes some picturesque falls near the road; and the Sitterdals Vand is seen upon the 1. * t Lysthuus i Eitterdal, ^. Tole- rable accommodation. Besides that at the stat. there is a very clean and comfortable house kept by Jomfru Hoist. It is on the rt. of the road, about half a mile before coming to Hitter d'd Ch. It is a lovely spot. From hence a by-road leads N. to Bamlekose, 1, and Tinoset, 2. This is the water station at the foot of the Tind Sjo, on the way to the Riukan- fos. From Lysthuus our road keeps W. up the lovely mountain valley, Hitterdal, beside the Ejerdals Elv. The village of Hitterdal is a short distance from Ssem, on this stage. Examine its most ancient and inte- resting wooden ch. It is one of the oldest in Norway, and of the same period and style as that at Borgund, on the Bergen road, Rte. 21 ; and like that it is included in Professor Dahl's work of the ancient Nor- wegian churches. Mr. Fergusson, in his ' Illustrated Handbook of Archi- tecture/ after regretting the destruc- tion of the wooden churches of Saxon and Norman times, says : — " The largest of these now in Norway is that of Hitterdal. It is 84 ft. long, by 57 across. Its plan is that usual in churches of the age, except that it has a gallery all round on the outside. Its external appearance is very remarkable. It is more like a Chinese pagoda, or some strange creation of the South-Sea Islanders, than the sober production of the same people who built the bold and massive round Gothic edifices of the same age." Mr. Fergusson suggests that the panels may once have been adorned by Runic carving, which, as they decayed, have been replaced by plain timbers, detracting much, of course, from its original appearance. t Mosseho, If. The road still con- tinues up this wild and picturesque valley, with the torrent on the 1. all the way to the next stat. About I m. beyond Bamble, the old stat. f m. from Lysthuus, another by-road is passed on the rt., which leads to Tinoset on the Tind Sjo ; and still farther on another branch of the same road is also passed. The Skangs Elv crosses the road on this stage. From Mossebo hence a horse-track leads N. to the Gousta Fjeld, and Riukan-fos. Our route still keeps up Hitterdalen. t Nordre Skeie i Hjertdal, I5. A fair stat. The scenery throughout this stage is magnificent ; the isolated mountain masses give a peculiar charm to the landscape. A short distance onwards the road crosses the Hjerdals Elv, and then turns S. ; soon crosses the Svarte Elv, and, after a very hilly stage, descends into the valley of the Flodals Elv, near the Flad Sjo. t Noordyaarden i Sillejordy 2?. A good stat. at Landsman tflsers. This place is in the heart of the Telle- marken. " The women of this dis- trict wear a red jacket, a black bkirt, trimmed at the bottom with yellow, and a short vest, fastened by a cein- ture where the jacket ends, and hang- ing in loose plaits for some inches below. A coloured handkerchief, tied round the head, floats in the air behind. The sides of the stockings are prettily worked, and the shoes are ornamented with large buckles, or star-shaped pieces of leather. The costume of the men is something like that in which Charles XII. is drawn, or that of the combatants in Spanish bull-fights : — a short jacket of some decided colour; a waist- coat striped, and very gaudy; dark breeches, with a streak of red run- ning down both sides, and across the front ; worsted stockings, well worked ; broad embroidered gaiters ; large knee-buckles, and shoes em- broidered like the women's. Both sexes wear a profusion of silver lace Norway, ilOtJTE 23. — VAiiLE CiOPPiJR-MiNES. Ill and trinkets upon their persons." — Elliott's * Letters from the North of Europe.' From Nordgaarden there is a road S.E. to the town of Skien, in Kte. 24. From Nordgaarden one can also go through Nissedal to Arendal ; to t Moen i Hvideseid, If ; Lonnemoen i Vraadal, 1| ; t Bakken, 2 ; f Tvedt- sund i Nissedal, 2 ; Oi, 1] ; Fos- ser, 1| ; Simonstad, 1| ; Mosberg, | ; t tfbergmoen, f ; Brsekke, 1|; Arendal, li. On leaving Nordgaarden, our road again keeps S.W. up a steep valley, with a torrent on the 1., and then across the N. end of the Broke Fjeld, descending the mountains near the head of the Bor Fjord. From Nordgaarden there is a road to the Bandags Vand to f Moen, 1|; where the steamer on the lake touches. The days from Dal are Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, reaching StrsBngen in about 6 hrs. ; the boat returns on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, corresponding with the boats on the Nord Sjo. The bear and wolf are met with here at times, and a considerable variety of winged game. The Beaver still exists, but there is a penalty for killing it. The lakes about here are large and nu- merous, and the trout fine and abundant. Berge i Brunkeherg, If. Another very hilly stage leads across a range of mountains S.W. to the village of Hoidalsmo, where it again keeps W. to t Mogen i Hoidalsmo, 1|, now a fast Stat. ; it has a clean bedroom. Excursions to Copper-Mines near Valle.— From Ofte a road leads S. to Tvisa3t, 1|, on the magnificent Ban- dags Vand. The view from Tvisset is splendid. Close by on the W. is the ch. of Laurdal. From hence crossing to the S. bank of the Vand to Bandagslid the road continues over uninteresting country to Lille- stuen, 3 m., and Moland on Tyris Vand. Accommodation bad, and horses are difficult to procure on this road. From Lillestuen there is a road to Arendal on Ete. 24. A horse- track also turns ofi" to the W., and crosses the mountains to Sfetersdal, which it enters a little to the N. of Valle, in the neighbourhood of which are some copper-mines. By this route in fine weather, some beautiful views are obtained of the wild moun- tains of Ssetersdal and Vutnedal. From Valle a station road runs S. through splendid scenery to the large seaport town of Christiansand, Rte. 24. From Valle another track leads along the bank of the beautiful Otter River, passing the Eos Vand on the 1., through Bykle, and up Vattendalen to Suledals Vand, which is crossed to Gautetun, and our road to Bergen is reached at the Eoldal Stat. This excursion from Mogen to Eoldal is about 23 m. From Valle to Bykle the track crosses the celebrated By- klestigen (the Ladder of Bykle), a path formed by logs of wood driven into the rock, and covered with sand. Here the ascent of the Hardanger range commences, but is very gradual. The direct Road to Bergen con- tinued. — From Mogen a horse-track leads N. to the Totak Vand and the Eiukan-fos. Proceeding to Bergen, our road passes over a steep moun- tain to Sundeli i Vinje, IJ. From hence another track leads N. to the Totak Vand. Crossing the stream from that lake, the road keeps up a steep valley past Vinje Vand to Jamsgaard, IJ. The accommoda- tion is not very good, but the station is apparently better than those pre- ceding and following it. Here a track between the Borts Vand on the S.W,, and the Totak Vand and Eiukan-fos on the N.E., crosses. To the W. an- other track leads towards the Bukn Fjord, on the sea-coast, and the town of Stavanger in Ete. 24. On leav- ing Jamsgaard, the road leads up a steep and grand mountain valley of the Hardanger range, and the stage ends at the Grunge Elv. il2 ROUTE 23. — CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN (c). — ODDE. l^OVWaiJ, Tof stand. If. The Tvete Vand is passed on this stage, and the scenery- becomes more and more wild, deso- late, and mountainous. The Venemsd Elv is crossed near Midtvedt i Haiikelid, 1 J, at the foot of the Houglifjeld. Here the post- road ends, and the route is no longer practicable for a carriole. A post- road is being continued from Midt- vedt over to Koldal, but it gets on but slowly, and it may be still six or seven years before it is completed. It should be remarked that in Nor- way the name " Hardanger Fjeld " is not known. Hardanger, like Tel- lemarken, is the name of a district, viz. that tract lying along the E. bank of the Sor Fjord. A track be- between the Suledals Vand on the W. and the head of the Mjos Vand on the N.E. crosses here. I|- Nor- wegian miles beyond Midtvedt i Haukelid, over the fjeld, there is a small place, or gaard, called Bot- nen, where good country quarters may be obtained, and where it is well to arrange to pass the night. Thence it is a long day's walk to Eoldal. The boundary of Tellemarken is passed near the mountain of the Solfond Nup, which is seen close upon the N., and the plateau of The Houglifjeld is attained. After crossing this plateau, the road rapidly descends intoEoldalen, and the stage ends by the lake of that name. The scenery upon this stage is of the wildest character, aifording much to admire. Horre i Bdldaly 6; tolerable ac- commodation at Landsman Juvets. From htiuce, and also a short dis- tance N,, there are bridle-tracks, S.W. to the Hyls Fjord, and on to Vigedals6ren, where the high-road is entered between Stavanger and Ber- gen, Kte. 24. The distance from Roldal to Vigedalsoren is about 10 m. Soon after leaving Roldal, our route leads N. by a steep ascent, and after crossing the ridge, on passing a small lake, the road enters the deep picturesque valley down which its waters flow. Seljestad, 2. The post-road from hence keeps down the valley of Gronsdal all the rest of the way to the Sor Fjord. Share, 1 m. From a considerable distance above Sel- jestad there is now a good post- road to Hildal. It is so much as is finished of the road above mentioned which is to unite Upper Tellemarken and Hardanger. It forms also part of the road which is intended to be completed between Hardanger and Christiansand. * Hildal, 1 . From hence the track keeps by the W. bank of the Sandven Vand (or the lake may be crossed in a boat, f m., which will save some time), and, passing through the Vih lage ofOdde, reaches the water station at the head of that splendid arm of the Hardanger, the Sor Fjord. The scenery all the way from Roldal here along the deep valley of Gronsdal is of the grandest description, the vast range of the Folge-fond lying on the W., and that of the Hardanger on theE. * Bustethun i Odde, 1. Hence there are steamers during June and July to Bergen. To Stavanger {vide Time Tables). Odde will be found good head-quarters for several days, being advantageously situated for EXCUKSIONS to {a.) The Glacier of the Folge-fond. — The highest point is between Sauge and Regno Nuten, and is estimated by Professor Esmark to be upwards of 5000 feet above the level of the sea. See Rte. 21. From hence in clear weather the view is glorious over the Hardanger Fjord and range of moun- tains to the E. Instead of returning to Odde, the traveller can proceed from Bondhuus on the W. side of the glacier down the fjord to the fertile barony of Rosendal, a smiling oasis in the midst of stupendous and barren mountains. It lies to the S.W. near the bank of the Hardanger Norway, rte. 23. — sardanger fjord — SKj^^GGEDAl-ros. 113 Fjord. " But if the traveller does re- turn to Odde, instead of following the same route by which he ascended, it is far more interesting to make a short circuit and descend by the glacier of Buer. The view of this glacier and of th^. valley into which it pours, as seen from the brow of the steep grass slopes by which the descent is made, is very fine, and even Alpine in character." — A. M. On quitting Rosendal, and going on to Sandvik, 1 m. S., tourists can there embark, and proceed up the fjord to Vikor on the N.W. bank, visit the Ostud-fos, and go on to Bergen througli Steindalen and Haa- landdal. See Rte. 21. (?).) The Hardanger Fjord; see also Rte. 21. Procure some provision before starting on these long water stages, and a bottle of brandy for the men will facilitate matters. (c.) "The expedition to Ringe- dals-fo8, often called the Skj^g- gedal-fos, should on no account be omitted. It is the *best ex- cursion from Odde and one of the grandest in Norway.' It will occupy from 12 to 14 hrs. to go and return. Taking boat at Odde, you row up the fjord about 4 m. (2 hrs.) to the en- trance of the glen from which the stream of the Skjseggedal, in the open- ing of which is the hamlet Tyssedal, issues out, and ascend the steep bank on rt. After a long climb, the path descends into the gorge by a rude ladder of wooden steps, and a small hamlet in a green meadow, bordering a lake, is reached. Crossing this lake in a boat, amidst the grandest scenery, a short row will bring you to the Fall. It is 2^ Norwegian miles from Odde ; one mile of steep foot- path, the rest water. The waterfall itself is a magnificent one. It is 600 to 700 ft. high above the lake, and descends into it barely grazing the rock, ' with a solid sound like the fall of a great avalanche.* Though not so high as the Voring-fos, the body of water is larger, the scenery grander, and it can be approached quite close. 1^ hour of scrambling leads to another fall, called Tysse Strengene, a pair of falls descending into tlie same chasm. Jacob the farmer will serve as guide. It is a rough scrambling ascent, over rock, to reach them." — A. M. From Odde the scenery down the Sor Fjord is grand in the extreme. The valleys leading from it to the E. abound in fine scenery and pictu- resque waterfalls. From Bustethun i Odde to Lofthuus i Tlllensvang, 2f ; good station. On the E. bank from hence the Voring-fos may be visited, by proceeding to f Vik, 2f , up the Eid- fjord [Inn, not good). See Vosse- vangen, Rte. 21. Continuing down the fjord from Hell eland, the next station is * Utne, 1|, on the W. bank. From Utne to t Vik is 2 m.; and from Utne to t Hagedad in Ulvik, If ; and from Utne to Eide i Graven, 3 m. From thence, rounding the N.E. foot of the Folge-fond, the Hardanger Fjord is entered; the scenery continues of grand Alpine character to Vikor ^ 2f , on the N.W. bank of the Hardanger Fjord. Near Norheim- sund Stat., 2| Eng. m. beyond this, is the Ostiid-fos (see Rte. 21), w^hich for its height, 150 ft., is perhaps the most picturesque of all the Nor- wegian falls. From Vikor to Jondal, beautifully situated, but very dirty. The Glacier of Jondal is 14 Eng. m. oif. Jondalsdren, 1, across the fjord ; from here the Glacier of the Folge- fond may be ascended; or farther down the same side of the fjord at Bondhuus. From Jondal soren down the fjord the scenery continues most grand, and abounds in waterfalls. Gjermundshavn, 2. Husey 11, on the high-road from Stavanger to Bergen, Rte. 24, and only 7 m. from the latter. 114 IlOtJTE 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFfiST. Norway, KOUTE 24. CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST AND THE NORTH CAPE ROUND THE COAST BY LAND. Distances, Norsk. English. Cliristiania to Christian- sand 32| or 227 Christiansand to Staven- ger 25i „ 177 Stavanger to Bergen . 18| „ 133 Bergen to Molde . . 39| „ 275 Molde to Trondhjem . 20^ „ 143 Trondhjem to the Nam- sen 18| „ 132 The Namsen to" Ham- merfest .... 833 ,, 584 Hammerfest to the North Cape 13 „ 91 Totals 2511 „ 17G2 There is steam communication every week between Cliristiania and Hammerfest, and this route is little used, except over small portions, where the traveller may wish to disembark from the steamer, and re- join it again at some other point. The descriptions of the towns are therefore for the most part given in Rte. 25. The only carriage to be taken upon this route is the carriole, and even that it would be better to sell at Stavanger if it be intended to pass any time in exploring the scenery upon the Hardanger or Sogne Fjords. When required, another can easily be purchased, either in Bergen or else- where. The carriole can be taken in almost any boat, but of course entails additional trouble and expense. With the exception of those on the E. side of the Cliristiania Fjord, this route comprises almost all the towns in Norway, and consequently is of much importance to those who may be travelling for commercial objects. The water-stages are numerous, and often very long. Most of the stations upon them are good, parti- cularly N. of Trondhjem; but meat and white bread can but seldom be obtained, except in the towns. The tourist should therefore, if possible, never be without a small supply of provisions — such is the custom of the country. For the water stages a keg of water, with a drinking-cup, water- proof cape, or coat, and stout boots, are essential to comfort. A bottle of brandy and some tobacco, as presents to the men occasionally, are also advisable. When sailing, never allow the sheet to be fixed, but always see that it is kept well in hand, as squalls from the mountains are frequent, and at times very dangerous, if this be not most strictly attended to. A good supply of small money must not be forgotten. From the town of Frederiksvsern to that of Ekersund, and again from the town of Stavanger to the N. Cape (with very few exceptions), there are regular water-stations all the way ; so that those who desire it may make almost the whole journey in boats. Nearly the whole length of coast from S. to N. is protected by a reef of islands, and it is between them and the mainland that the water-stages usually run; the sea being there quite still, however rough it may be outside. Some of these islands are large, and contain red deer. Occasionally a bear may be met with. Quantities of wild fowl frequent most of them, particularly N. of Trondlijem. Cliristiania to Christiansand. Dist. 321 Norsk miles, or 227 Eng. From Christiania to Dram^nen, as in Rte. 23, dist. 4 miles. There are two post-stations in Drammen ; one Norway, EOUTE 24. TONSBERG. 115 on the E. side (Bragenses) and one on the W. (Stromso), where horses can be ordered, t Ostre i Sande, 1. An excellent new road. jfMevaa i 8ande,l. Good level road. Hence to Eidsfos Ironworks, 1 m. From Eevaa one can go to Sh'en thus : to Fogstad i Hoff, \\ ; Schj erven i Laurdal, 1 1 ; Hole i Laurdal, f ; Ilanevold i Laurdal, 1\ ; Ovrebo i Slemdal (no longer a station), IJ; and to Shlen^ 1^. T. t Grefsrod, 1| . Hotel, Madame Becker's, well spoken of. This small town is chiefly supported by ship- building. The rocks overhanging the Avater here are particularly fine ; and the birch, beautifully intermingled with the dark fir, gives an agreeable variety to the foliage. From Holme- strand a road goes to Kongsberg thus: to Fogstad, IJ ; Goverod, ^ ; Tveten, 11 ; Vinxs, | ; Volden, 1 ; Kongs- berg, 1|. [From Holmestrand a road diverges to Snelvig ,and Drobak. The stations are — f Odegaarden, | m. by water ; -fSvelvig, 1|, hillystage; t Klokkerstuen, | ; Drobak, IJ ; crossing the fjord from Slottet i Hurum. It is, however, far better to go by water to all these places on the fjord by steamer, wherever possible.] Excursion to Horteri. From Hol- mestrand a road to the E. leads by t Bruserod, |, and f Borten, 1|. For description, see Rte. 2'>. From Horten there is a road which joins our route at Fyldpaa by Kjser, li. Fyldpaa, f. Close to Borre Church, between Horten and Kjser, there are several tumuli, dating probably from the period when there was a royal residence there. Direct Route to the North Cape continued from Holmestrand. t Sollerod i Undnim.sdal, 1\. Rather hilly on leaving Holmestrand. * t Fyldpaa i Sxm, f . From hence a road S.E. leads to Tonsberg, i m. This town is beautifully situ- ated, facing S.W., at the head of a small fjord, and, though now of little note, was formerly one of the largest in Norway, and indeed for a long period was the only town in the southern division of the kingdom. Previous to the Calmar Union, it pos- sessed 10 churches and monasteries, and a fortified castle called Tons- berghuus. In the year 1536 it was totally destroyed by fire, and since that period it has been unable to recover its former importance. Of its 10 churches but 1 remains, and scarcely any traces exist of the site of the castle. About half an English mile from Tonsberg is " Jarlsberg," the seat of the Counts Wedel Jarlsberg. It was formerly the property of Count Griffenfeld (Schumacher), the favourite but unpopular minister of Frederiklll., who, after long basking in the sunshine of royal favour, was exiled for a period of 18 years to the dreary fortress of Munkholm in the Trondhjem Fjord. The Valid Salt Works are upon the Christiania Fjord, J m. from Tonsberg; the steamers for the capital and the dis- tricts to the E. and W. call there. t Sorby i Stokke, J. From this place to Tonsberg, 1 g m. t Haukerod i Sandherred, 1. On the S. of this place, | m. dist., is the- little town of Sandefjord, which is situated at the head of a deep bay, and has lately risen into the dignity of a bathing-place, being much re- sorted to during the summer by the inhabitants of Christiania. It is well spoken of for rheumatic complaints. T. * t Laurvig, IJ. There are two respectable hotels here. For descrip- tion, see Ete. 25. From Laurvig a road goes to Kongsberg thus : to Gjone, Ih ; Odberg, 1| ; Hanevold, 1 ; Hole, li; Skjerven, f ; Tveten, 1|; See under Holmestrand. [The town of Frederiksvsern is | of a mile from Laurvig on the S. Inns wretched. This place is a station for the royal fleet, and the seat of the Naval Academy. Many naval 116 ROTTTE 24. — CHRTSTlANIA ^lO fiAMBlERFEST. KorWap, officers, with their families, reside here, which makes the society pleasant. " The hills about this town might well make any one a mineralogist. The beautiful crystals of iridescent feldspar that shine in them are seen at a distance of several yards." — Everest's 'Norway/ p. 23. The view of the town from the water is very picturesque.] Boute to the North Cape, con- tinued from Laurvig. — The forma- tion of the coast here renders a con- siderable detour requisite in this land route. Those who wish to proceed at once to the westward may save some hours and several miles by taking horses to Helgeraaen, IJ, from thence proceed by boat across the fjord to Langesund, f, and there again take horses to Udgaarden, 1|. Steamers run from Langesund to Skien, calling at Brevig, and Pors- grund. The next station is at Solum i Brunlanses, 1. Good road from Laurvig. t Lanner i Eidanger, I . From Lanner a road to the N.W. leads into the Bergen road, Rte. 23, through tlie town of T. t Porsgrund, | m. It is a place of some trade, and con- tains two small churches. The Amt- mand (principal civil officer) of the province resides here. On the N.W. of Porsgrund, and on the way to the Ber- gen road, likewise the town of Skien, f . This is the largest town in the province of Bratsberg, and one of the most ancient cities in Norway ; the church is a respectable brick build- ing; there are several sawmills in the town, and a considerable export trade to England and France is carried on. Between Porsgrund and Skien are the ruins of an old Catholic chapel. From Skien the road passes along the S. side of the Nord Sjo, at the head of which the road divides ; the rt. runs through a splendid pine forest, and enters Rte. 23 near the Tinnses Stat,, on the way to the cele- brated Riukan-fos, or the town of Kongsberg, distant lOJ m. from Skien ; the 1. enters the same route on the way to Bergen at the Nordgaarden Stat, on the Sillejord Vand. See Rte. 23. A steamer runs from Fjaerstrand at the S. end of Nord Sjo to the N. end of Hitterdals Vand, near Tangen, Rte. 23. There is another steamer on Bandags Vand. The scenery upon the upper part of the Nord Sjo is grand, and the costume and dwellings of the peasants, in that wild part of Telle- marken, are highly picturesque. The fishing and general shooting to be had in Tellemarken are also well spoken of. The trout and other fish are fine and plentiful in the lakes and streams which abound in this district; and the bear, wolf, and a variety of winged game are said to be numerous in the mountains. Some of the peasants are capital shots ; they generally use only the rifle; bore very small. Boute to the North Cape, continued from Lanner. T. t Brevig, or Stathelle, 1|. A hilly stage from Lanner. This is a small town built on the point of a promontory in the Langesund Fjord. It contains about 2000 inhab. The scenery about here is bold and fine. On leaving this place, the fjord is crossed by a ferry of about ^ an Eng. m. to the little town of Stathelle, from whence a road leads to the small town of Langesund at the mouth of the fjord, distant | m. From Sta- thelle the stage continues to t Bonholt i Bamble, IJ, a very hilly and heavy stage from Stathelle. From Ronholt one can go to T. Kra- geroe thus : to Brevig strand, J m. by land, and 2 m. by water : the boat should be ordered to meet at Udgaard. Krageroe is a small place, famous for the goodness of its oysters. Near I here, in the island of Langoe, there I are some iron-mines. t Tyvand and Hsegland i Sanike- , dot, 3. A very hilly stage from Ron- ! holt. Hence to Krageroe is If m. Norway. ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANSAND. 117 t Holte i Gjerestad, If. Ascent for half of this stage, the rest descent. From hence the small lake of Gerre- stad is crossed near the Osteriisoer ironworks. t Bod i Gjerestad, 1^, pay for 1|. Now a tolerably level road ; there is a bridge over Holtsund. Close here a road to the E. leads to the town of * Osterriisoer, IJ, pay for 2, or 1 m. by water all the way. This is a small place, and only known as one of the many harbours of refuge on this coast. Continuing from Kod, the next stat. is Lunde i Holt, 1 J, pay for 1|. The first part of the road from Rod is very hilly. At Naes, ^ m. W. of this, there are the most valuable iron-mines in tlie country. And on the coast, J m. S., is the town of Tvedestiand, a little place, from whence iron is shipped, which is produced at Nses, ^ m. From Angelstad to Ubergmoea 1 m., from whence one can proceed to Ovre Tellemarken (see Index). Con- tinuing from Angelstad, the next stat. is t Brsekhe i Ostre Moland, If. t Blodehjser, IJ. Hence a road goes to T. Arendal, 1 m. See Rte. 25. Nersteen i Oiestad, J. This is only I of a m. from Arendal. Bringsvxrd i Fjeere^ ^. A short distance from hence a road leads S. to the coast at the small town of Grimstad, ^ m. It has little foreign trade, and is chiefly supported by ship- building. Continuing from Brings- va^rd, the next stat. is Landvig, f . From hence to Grim- stad it is also I m. by another road E. t T. Lillesand, 1|. This place is ' beautifully situated upon the coast and sheltered from every wind. It was formerly a town of some im- portance, but is now one of the small- est in Norway, all its trade having been removed to the neighbouring towns of Arendal and Christiansand. There is a good inn kept by Jomfru Guldbrandsen. A short distance from the road, between Tlngsaker and this town, on the 1., is Moland Ch., where there is a lofty Eunic stone. Continuing from Tingsaker, our route quits the coast, and runs inland to Tvede i BirTienxs^ 1\. An excel- lent road from Lillesand. Adbel i Birkenass, f, pay for f . Near here the Topdals Elv is crossed. It was here that Mr. T. W. Lassels, of Liverpool, killed 216 salmon, and rose 465, as related in his published account, between 30th June and 19th July, 1841, weighing 2145 lbs., the largest being 30 lbs. " Salmon go up to Been Foss. It abounds with fish, but they are generally of small size." — Sport in Noricay. The artist will find ample occupation on its banks. From Aahel to Knarrestad, ^, whence in summer one can go by steamer to Christiansand. From Aabel the river is crossed by a new bridge, and the road winds round the Topdals Fjord to t Kostol i Tved, 1^. T. Christiansand, li. Inns: Ernst's Hotel, good; Britannia Hotel, and Scandinavia Hotel. For descrip- tion of Christiansand, see Ete. 25. Excursions.— a. 3 m. up the Torris- dals Elv there is a fine fall, Hel-fos. The road is along the bank of the river through a grand pass ; and the salmon-fishing near Hel-fos is well spoken of. " The fishing on this river belongs to a gentleman who will probably give leave. A small pay- ment will have to be made. Good fishing atVigland, where there is an excellent station."— >Spor^ in Norway. b. To the Vigland-fos. — " On the Otter River, about 10 m. from Chris- tiansand, a mixed rapid and cataract. The adjacent country is fine, and the drive thither, through pretty scenery giving an excellent idea of the S. Norwegian landscape. The Otter is a noble stream, expanding some miles above Vigland into a fine lake. On the river itself are large saw-mills, belonging to a Swiss gentleman, Mr. Wildt. In South Norway the entire absence of pines of respectable age 118 ROUTE 24o — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST. NoTlvay. or size strikes the traveller, but the Miltonian pine, fitted to be the *mast* of some great admiral, is awanting : they are said to be found in great number and beauty about 90 m. up the river."— G. P. c. To the Hardanger Fjord. — From Christiansand the most direct road to this magnificent fjord is through some of the most beautiful scenery in the S. of Norway. But this route must not be taken excepting by those capable, as well as willing, to incur much fatigue and the roughest ac- commodation at the station-houses, most of which are miserably poor. The road leads N. through Ssetersdal by a succession of lakes and rivers, and passes numerous waterfalls and cascades. As carrioles can only be taken part of the way, that is, to Rys- sestad, or Rige, it would be the best and cheapest plan to make the jour- ney on horseback. The distance to the Hardanger Fjord is 34 m. The stations are from Christian- sand to — Sxtersdal. Mosby, 1 m. r Bomsmoen, IJ. Beiersdaly 1. JTegelandy 1|. t Daasnass, 2|. t Senum^ \\. t Aalchuus, 2J.)0nly two reserved t Ose, 1^. j horses kept. Ilelle i Hillerstad, 2. Aahre i Valle, If. Mostol i ByUe, 3|, horse-road. Between Kile and Fennefos, on the Kile Fjord, 2| m.,and between Senum and Strommen for Aakhuus, on the By glands or Byklunds Fjord, 2| m., Steamers ply in summer (see Tables). A few years ago some copper-mines were being worked in Ssetersdal, which are said to have been produc- tive, and to have been discontinued solely on account of difficulties ex- perienced in the reduction of the ores ; at any rate, for want of unani- mity and capital among the pro- prietors, the works were discontinued. If the wind is fair, a water Skydts on Kile Fjord or Bygland Fjord saves time. A level road, and uninterest- ing scenery, till Bygland; thence very fine. From Valle, a horse-path leads to the N.E., to Rte. 23, at Ofte. From Bjorneraa a horse-path leads to Bykle, J^ ; Vatnedal, 2 ; Breivik, 1 ; JordbraBkke in Suledal, 3 ; Gautetun, by land, J, and by water, I ; Botten, 2 ; and Roldal, 1. Here Rte. 23 is joined. *' It is said that ages ago, in the remote past, some Scotch families found their way into Ssetersdal ; and that in time they became so inter- mixed with the Ssetersdal peasants that all indication of their foreign extraction became obliterated." — Sport in Norway. Bears are said to be numerous in Ssetersdal, while game abounds. Christiansand to Stavanger. Dist. 26 J Norsk m., or about 180 Eng. " The first half of the road, as far as Oldestad (beyond the Eye or Eide Stat.), is of extraordinary beauty and interest. Here the great Scan- dinavian chain of mountains dips into the sea, and the road passes it by crossing the valleys and ridges at right angles. As the hills are very rocky, the valleys much interspersed with lakes and arms of the sea, and as the abundant wood is of a more varied character, owing to the milder climate, than is common in these northern regions, and as all the fea- tures of the landscape are of mode- rate size, there is an endless variety of the most pleasing objects, and the traveller journeys for 70 or 80 Eng. m. through a series of the most charm- ing scenes of rock, wood, and water, which pass before his eyes with a rapidity of succession and prodigality of beauty that would perhaps be difficult to match in Europe. " The latter half of the road is of a very different character, being for the most part over a wild dreary moor, with little of interest. About Norway. ROUTE 24. — MANDAL— STAY ANGER. 119 Haar the road is actually taken over the sea-beach below the level of the liigh tides. Towards Stavanger every now and then may be seen one of those large unhewn upright stones which have given so much occupation to mtiquaries."~(7. T. N. From Christiansand, hilly road, with the exception of the first 5 of a m. Between Christiansand and the next stage the Sogne River is crossed, in which there is good fishing. t Lunde i Sogne, If. Between this ?tage and Mandal you are ferried over the Trys Fjord. t Vatne i Holmey If. Hilly road. T. * t Mandal, l^. The river Mandal flows through the centre of this small town, which is of little lote, excepting as a harbour of refuge, rhe salmon-fishing is spoken well of, md the shooting is also good, black ^ame and woodcocks being abundant. f Vigeland i Valle, 1|. Tolerable 'oad. t Fahret i Lyngdal, 2J. From this ?tage there is a good road to Farsund, I m. Tjomsland i Lyngdal, 1. Between these you cross the bridge that has 3een thrown over the Lyngdals River, ;vhere the ferry formerly was. From :his station to the N. a station-road eads up the picturesque valley of that :iver to the head of the Lynge Vand. rhere the station-road ends, but a iiorse-track continues N. over the mountains to Brokkebod, on the Baads Vand; there the track sepa- rates, leading to Valle in Ssetersdal 3n the E., and to the head of Lyse Fjord on the W. The accommoda- tions on this route are rude in the 3xtreme, but it has great attractions for the angler and lover of wild tnountainous scenery. Rorvig i Fedde, 1^. Hilly road. Between this and Fedde you are ferried over Fedde Fjord, I m., for ^vhich you pay a Sound due, and not the regular Skydts payment. Fedde, |. The Qvinna flows into ihe fjord ^ m. N.E. of this place. It afibrds some good fishing, and fine mountain scenery. There is a station- road up the valley for 2h m. T. * Flekkefjord, 1^. " Hilly road. A small town, containing about 3000 inhab., and carries on a considerable trade. The harbour is good. One can go by boat to this place from Fedde, IJ m. Sirnses i Balihe, If. Hilly road. About \ m. from this station you cross a very pretty chain-bridge which has been thrown over the Seri River. Nysted, or Moi i Lande, 1^. Be- tween Sirnses and Moi one can go by water, | m. The road passes the so-called Tronaas. From Nysted there is a road to Soggendal, viz. : — Midland, 11 ; Hauge, 1| ; Soggendal, IJ. From Hauge you can go to Egersund, viz. : — Ougendal, 1^ ; Svan- ies, 1 ; and Egersund, 1. Eye in Hseskestad, 1|. Good level road. Befsland, |. Ditto. Svaleatad i Helleland, J. Good road. From Svalestad to Egersund it is 1| m. From Svalestad you can likewise go by the following road to Stavanger, viz. : f Birhrim, I ; t -^we, \\\ Aalgaard, 1|; t Skeiene, 1| ; Stavanger, 1|. This road, though shorter, is seldom used, as it is very indifferent. Slettebo i Egersund, 1. Level, good road. From this station it is only \ m. to Egersund. Hegrestad i Egersund, 1. Level, good road, with the exception of a few hills near Tegnsbrid. Holleland i Ogne, f. Hilly road. * Haar iVarlioug,!. Level, good road. First-rate night-quarters. Hohherstad i VarJioug, f. Ditto. Bee i Time, \\. Ditto. t Skeiene i Hdylands, 1|. Ditto. T. Stavanger, 1^. Ditto. 60J from Christiania. Good Inns kept by Olsen and by Madame Jespersen, very comfortable ; — charges 1^ sp.-d. a day. Stavanger is described in Rte. 25. From Stavanger there are nume- rous excursions well worth the atten- 120 ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMEEFEST. Norway, tion of the traveller. In addition to those exploring the minor branches of the Stavanger Fjord, and their various tributary streams (all having their falls and cascades), by taking boat from Stavanger to HoUe, 4 m., and thence up the Lyse Fjord to its head at Lyse, about 4 m., a horse- path leads from thence to Valle in Saetersdal. (See Christiansand.) From Stavanger also the grand scenery on the Hardanger Fjord may be explored en route to Bergen. The way there is by the water-stations, across the vast Buklze Fjord, thence to the N.E. up one of its branches, the Sands Fjord, and E. to the head of Hyls Fjord at Hylen, along Sule- dals Vand to Boldal (Kte. 23), and in the immediate vicinity of the finest part of the Hardanger Fjeld. From Stavanger to the Hardanger Fjord by this road is about 19 m. For particulars of the scenery on the Hardanger Fjord, see Rtes. 21 and 23. AtHougesund (one of the stations on the coast in going to Bergen by water), the gravestone of Harald Haarfager, the first king of all Nor- way, may be seen. At least so it is called, and the popular belief here is that he was buried there. But that such was not the fact appears more than doubtful, as by another account the place of his interment is stated to have been '* one of his manors in Drontheim ; '* and that *' near the spot a magnificent heathen temple was erected, which was stand- ing in the days of Snorro." Boute to Bergen hy open boats. — Those who prefer going on from hence to Bergen by water can do so, and the following are the stations. Dist. 16. Fieldoen, 1^; Forresvig, 1| ; * KoPERViK, 1 — this is a very small town on the island of Karm ; * Hougesund, 1 (mentioned above as to King Harald Haarfager) ; Lyng- holmen, 1 J ; Tjernagelen, 1 ; *Moster- havn, 1 ; *Folgeroen, 1 ; Engersund, 1 ; Baekkervigen, 1 ; Ostre Bagholm, 1 ; Bukken, 1| ; Bergen, 2. Stavanger to Bergen. There is a Steamer twice a week between Stavanger and Sandeid ; one twice a week between Stavanger and Nerstraad; once a week between Olen and Bergen. There are so many water-stations on this route, and so little that is interesting by the land stages, that the tourist is advised to take the steamer direct to Bergen. But fail- ing to meet it, and continuing by the land route, dist. 18| Norsk m. (10^ of which are by water), or 133 Eng., the first 6 stages are by water. Gangenses, 1 ; on the large island of BennisSe. Judebergetf 1 ; on the island of Findoe. Bamavig i Sterner o, 1. Nerdraad, 1. Vigedalsoren, If. Trseet, ^. From hence the next 3 stages are by land. _ * Olen, f . At the head of the Olen Fjord. From this and the two next stages there are water-stations all the way, should it be desired not to continue the land journey. From Olen there is a new road to Houge- sund — viz. to Smedevig, 1| ; Hvide- nxs, 1 J ; Hougesund, 1|. Etnesoen i Mne, 1 ; or by water, 1 J. The road from Olen is heavy. Lechnaes, | by land, pay for 1 J ; by boat 2| m. From hence the mouth of the Mattre Fjord (a branch of the Bommel Fjord) is crossed. Excursion to the Hardanger Fjord. — From the Mattre Fjord that of the Aahre branches ofi" and winds away to the N.E., amongst the snow-clad mountains of the Folge-fond. The scenery becomes very grand towards the head of the Aakre Fjord, near Fjsere, from whence a horse-track leads to Seljestad, on the way to the Hardanger Fjord: Rte. 23. Those de- sirous of taking this wild route had better proceed to the next station (OlfernsBs), from whence to Seljestad, is about 7 m., and to the Hardanger Norway. ROUTE 24. — BERGEN TO MOLDE. 121 Fjord at Odde, 10 m. These routes should not be attempted without a guide. For travellers who are upon this part of the coast, this is the best route for exploring the grand scenery of the Hardanger Fjord, as it enables those who take it to traverse the whole fjord and enter the road to Bergen again at its mouth, without going over any part of the way twice. For particulars of the scenery, see Vossevangen in Rte. 21, and Odde in Rte. 23. The next station is — Qlfernses i Skonevig, i. 'From hence the next 2 stages are by land, round the foot of the Folge-fond. Vahlen i Eld, f . Helvigen i Kvlndherred, IJ. (From hence to Bergen there are water stations all the way, should it be desired not to continue the land journey.) This station is on the S. side of the Hardanger Fjord, and is a good point from whence to explore its beauties. From here the fjord is crossed to Huse i Kvindherred, 1. Thence by land to Sundfjord i Strandvig, J. From here the Strande Fjord is crossed to Sservold i Strandvig, 1^. Thence by land to Oftestu i Fuse, |, pay for 1. Here JBjdrne Fjord, a branch of the Strande Fjord, is crossed to Hatvigen i Os, ^ ; and the next 3 stages into Bergen are by land. Ousoren or Indre Moherg i Os, J. t Nedre Sandven i Fane, 1|. T. t Bergen, 1§. For Inns, and description of this city, see Rte. 21. Excursion to tlie Sogne Fjord (see Leirdalsoren, Rte. 21). — The scenery along the coast, between Bergen and this fjord, is not very pic- turesque. The best plan is to follow Rte. 21 from Bergen to Leirdalsoren, at the head of the fjord. From thence to visit the Fille-Fjeld, the glaciers of Justedal, &c., and then INorway.'] drop down the fjord, rejoining this route at the Leervig station near the coast, or one of the places where the steamer calls to the N. or S. of the entrance of the fjord. A Steamer runs from Bergen to Leirdalsoren, along the fjord, 2 or times a week. Bergen to Molde. Dist. 39| Norsk m., or 275 Eng. This part of the route comprises the most picturesquely grand scenery in the country. The coast scenery upon the line taken by tlie steamers, be- tween Bergen and Trondhjem, is comparatively very uninteresting to that by land after passing the Sogne Fjord. All who have time are therefore strongly advised to take the land route. There are 15 fjords to be crossed ; the scenery upon most of them is superb, and but little known to tom-ists. Ladies driving their own carrioles have passed this way with ease and plea- sure, and no greater fatigue than other roads in Norway involve. The road and many of the stations are perfectly good, but some pro- visions should be taken, and brandy for the boatmen. These men are generally careful and skilful, but, when sailing, the greatest care should be taken never to allow the sheet to be fixed. There are two modes of getting from Bergen to the N. side of the Sogne Fjord ; one entirely by boats (or steamer) and the other partially by land. Should the wind be fair, the water route will be the best to adopt, as the scenery by land is not only uninteresting but the roads and stations are wretched. The stages by water are — Bukken i Sund, 2^ ; Alvestrom- men i Hammer, 2 ; Kiilstrommen, 2| ; Skejerjehavn i Evindvig, 1^ ; Sognefsest i Evindvig, 1^ ; Leervig, If ; in all, 11^ m. Steamer to Leer- vig will save much trouble. Q 122 ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST. NoTWay. The stages by the land route fire — BSdland i Hammer, f , pay for 1. Heavy road. Horvig i Hammer, f , pay for 1. Here the Oster Fjord is crossed to Isdaal i Hammer, J by water and \ by road. Ns&8e i Hosanger, If. Here a small bay is crossed to Hundven, \. The station is some little distance from the landing- place. Fanebust i Lindaas, IJ. There is a steamer once a week between this station and Bergen. Here the Mas Fjord is crossed, and the stage continues by land along the foot of the steep moun- tains to the Steensfjeld on the E. to Steen i Evindvig, 1|. J m. by road and 1 by water. Eid (or Elie), J. Thence by water to Haveland, 1|. Bulled al i Brxkhe, 1. From here the Sogne Fjord is crossed to T. * Leervig, If, and the scenery becomes magnificent. From hence the next 4 stages are by land, through most grand mountain passes and very fine wild scenery. Systad i Hyllestad, 1 . Skaar i Hyllestad, 1. FLxkke i Ytre Holmedal, IJ. Dale i Holmedal, f. A first-rate Inn. This station is on the S. side of Hale Fjord, the scenery upon which is most beautiful. To the E. the grand range of the Justedals moun- tains is seen. From Dale our route is by water up the fjord to * Eidevig i Holmedal, \\. There is good accommodation to be had here. From hence the next 4 stages are by land. Lang eland i Holmedal, 1. Near this, a road by Dale to Bergen turns off from that by the 2 Fordes, lead- ing to the Sogne by Vadheim. Forde i Forde, 1, from Forde to Langeland pay for If. First-rate quarters at the head of the Forde Fjord, where a fine stream, affording some excellent fishing, falls into it. From Forde our road turns E. up a beautiful valley. A very fine cataract is passed on the 1. J m. off the road. It is reported one of the finest in Norway for height and volume, audits roar is heard far and near. The road continues to wind up the valley through very fine scenery and a splendid forest of pine-trees. Rest a quarter of an hour on this stage. * Nedrevasenden i Jolster, If. Good quarters. This station is at the foot of the Jolster Vand, a small but beautiful lake, surrounded by lofty mountains. The next stage can be made either by a good road along the Jolster Vand, or by water to the head of the lake at Skei, or Ovrevasenden, 21 . The scenery upon this stage is of the grandest description. The road winds through a deep and narrow ravine, in mountains of enormous height, and rising perpendicularly in many places. The Justedals range is upon the S.E., the highest parts of which are estimated at 7000 ft. The pass is most splendid ; a fine waterfall close to Forde. The huge masses of rock fallen from above give a vast air of desolation to the scene up this grand ravine. Fdrde i Bredheim, f . From hence the Bredheim Vand, a lake which has been compared, for beauty, Avith the Konigssee in Salzburg, is crossed to Beed i Bredheim, IJ ; most wretched. There is one good room at this station, but no provisions. This place is charmingly situated amidst splendid scenery. From hence the glaciers of the Justedals moun- tains are visible.. Moldestadt i Bredheim, J. Between Moldestadt and Udwig occurs the worst hill in Norway; the road is carried up a very Nor loaij. ROUTE 24. — BEKGEN TO MOLDE. 123 steep cLscenU taking 3| hours to sur- 1 mount, with wretched ponies ; com- 1 manding splendid views of the Jus- \ tedals to the S.E., and of the^ long- peaked range of the Lang FjeJd to the E. Udvih i Indvigen, f, pay for I5. (Small clean Inn») Beautifully sit- uated on the margin of the TJdvig Fjord, the most E. branch of the Vaags Fjord. It would amply repay the lover of Alpine scenery to ex- plore the numerous tributary lakes at the head of this grand fjord. The sportsman would have a good chance of finding a bear or two there, besides small game and reindeer in the moun- tains. From Udvigen the Indvig Fjord is crossed to Faleidet i Indvigen, 1. A clean and very pretty Inn, just over the water ; and the balcony commands a most exquisite view. The landlord speaking English. A splendid ex- cursion from here by the Older Vand to the Brixdal Glaciers. [Higher up the head of the fjord lies Taaning (3 J Eng. m.), excellent quarters, in a beautiful situation, and more con- venient for excursions (see Rte. 21). •| m. from it is Visnxs, the steam- boat station at the head of the Nord Fjord. " The view from a mountain called Kirkenabbet, a short day's ex- cursion from this, which ladies may take, is extremely beautiful." — C. From Taaning a horse - track leads E. through the mountains by Vaage Vand into Gudsbrandsdalen, at the Laurgaard Stat. (Rte. 26). And from Oldoren, at the head of this fjord, another horse-track runs S. through some of the wildest country in Norway, by Justedal, to the head of the Sogne Fjord (Rte. 21).] From Faleidet, along the coast, the next stage is by land to Kjosehunden i Horningdals, li. The scenery continues to be very wild, and of great beauty and gran- deur, during this and the 4 subse- quent stages. Grodaas i Horningdals, half by water, or half by land. This station is near the head of the Horningdals Vand. Good shooting here. From hence the road winds up a grand valley by a steep ascent to Haugen, f . [From Haugen, Hor- ningdalsrohhen, "a peak crowning the finest precipice in Norway," may be ascended. (See 'Alpine Journal,' No. 21, May, 1868.) Drive 3| m. up the valley to a Sseter, rest of the way on foot; very stiff climbing, part over snow and ice — 10 hours to go and return to Haugen.] At the end of this stage the road descends to Thronstadty |, poor station. From this, Aalesund can be reached by another route, perhaps one of the wildest and most picturesque in this part of Norway, by branching off by a cross road to the N.W. to Oie, a wretched station. Tiie road is bad, the most of it being only fit for riding or Avalking. From Oie across the Ijord to Ssebo, a lovely row of ^m., and thence down the fjord to Svartebseh, 2| m., and Aalesund, 1 m. The mountain scenery on this route will well repay the trouble. Hellesylt, f . A small but very fair Inn ; and it is a pleasant place to stop at for two or three days. This station is at the head of the most S. branch of the Stor Fjord, which far excels in beauty the Romsdals Fjord, and close by there is a very grand cascade. Excursions.— a. There is a direct path over the fjeld to Stryn and Taaning. h. An expedition should, by all means, be made to the head of the Geiranger Fjord, a small arm of the Stor Fjord, one of the most magnificent in Norway. Four hours in boat with two men, or half a long day there and back. The steamer from Hellesylt to Aalesund twice a week, goes up the Geiranger Fjord. This fjord is most splendid ; G 2 124 KOUTB 24. — CHEISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST. Norwmj, and the principal waterfall, called the *' Seven Sisters," is very beauti- ful. " It casts the whole of the rest of the fjord into shade." c. A fine expedition may also be made over to the head of the Hjorend Fjord. d. From Hellesylt one can go by steamer to Aalesund. The scenery upon this fjord is exceedingly fine, and the costume of the peasants about here very picturesque. From Hellesylt by water down the fjord to Slyngstad it is 2J. But there is another route by water to Ljoen, |. And thence by land to Helstad, If, and Slyngstad, f. From hence there are stages to Relingden, 2|, and Sylte, J m., near the head of the N. branch of the Stor Fjord; and from Sylte a horse-path leads across the mountains of the Lang Fjeld to the Nystuen station, in Romsdalen, Ete. 30. Continuing down the fjord from Slyngstad, the scenery gradually be- comes less bold to Andam i Orshoug, 1| ; thence by road to * Soholt, I by land, on the N. side of the fjord, and a good station. The situation of Soholt is beautiful, and those who do not make the excur- sion to Aalesund should not fail to walk 2 or 3 Eng. miles along the charming road that leads towards it. Excursion to Aalesund from So- holt. — The first stage is partly by water to Sorte, IJ; JRodset, IJ. T. * Aalesund, IJ. {Inn, Sporck's, very good.) This town is small, but very picturesquely situated, and the views from it of the distant peak range of the Lang Fjeld, on the S.E., are exceedingly grand. Although of recent date, this place already carries on a considerable trade with Spain and Italy, chiefly in codfish. The harbour is ad- mirably sheltered, particularly the inner one, which is quite secure in all weathers. The vessels from hence have adopted the new mode of fish- ing foi' cod, invented about 20 years since. Long nets with a large mesh, and about 7 feet deep, are sunk to the bottom of the sea where the cod feed ; several of these large nets are joined together ; the fish become en- tangled in the nets, and in this manner 1000 are sometimes taken at a single haul. A steamer twice a week to Helle- sylt and Larsnses from the begin- ning of June to the end of December. The country about here abounds in historical associations connected with the ancient history of Norway and her sea-kings, and the legends are numerous and interesting. About 1 Norsk mile W. of Aale- sund is the small island of Gidshue, formerly the residence of one of the most powerful families in Norway. The remains of the old family chapel are still visible. A little to the S. of Aalesund was the Borg, or castle, of Hrolf Gangr, or Rollo the walker, " so called because he was so tall and robust that no Norwegian horse could carry him." He was the conqueror and founder of the Duchy of Nor- mandy, and ancestor of our William the Conqueror. After several years of hostility with the French, their sovereign, Charles the Simple, opened a negotiation with Eollo, which terminated in his embracing Chris- tianity and being baptised as Robert ; and thereupon Charles gave him Gisele, his natural daughter, in mar- riage, and invested him with the Fief and title of Duke of Normandy, A.D. 912. The followers of Robert also embraced Christianity, and settled in Normandy. Upon Robert's investiture, part of the ceremony of the homage to be done by him upon the occasion consisted in his kissing the king's foot. This the herculean conqueror was too proud to do, and was therefore allowed to appoint a deputy, but he proved to be as Norway. HOtrTE 24.— MOLDE TO TRONBHJEM. 125 haughty as his master. Upon Charles raising his foot to be kissed, the bold Norseman raised it still higher, and threw the poor monarch on his back, amidst the suppressed laughter of the assembly. — Dunham's ' History of Norway,' &c. The Steamers between Christian- sand and Trondhjem call here in going both up and down the coast. S'or the road from Aalesund to the grand valley of Bomsdalen, see Ete. 30. The neighbourhood of Soholt is very picturesque. The road upon this stage crosses the peninsula be- tween Aalesund and Molde. t HelUngsgaard, 1|. Poor quar- ters. * Vestnses, 1. Fine situation, and good accommodation. From hence the Molde Fjord is crossed in about 2 hrs. to T. * Molde, IJ. (Inns: Buck's Hotel ; good and comfortable. The landlord and his family speak Eng- lish. The Romsdalen ; tolerable.) For description of this town, see Rte. 30, also of Bomsdalen, which splendid valley should, if possible, be visited from hence. This is another place of call for the Steamers up and down the coast. Molde to Trondhjem. Dist. 20 Norsk miles, 140 Eng. Almost all the stations on this route are bad. Provisions must be taken. Nearly the whole of the first 3 stages from hence are along the N. bank of the Fanne Fjord, a branch of the Molde, through pleasant scenery by * Lonsset, 1. Probably a horse may be hired from Molde to Angvik, 4 1, which will be a convenience, as the stations are " slow." Eide^ 1. Poor inn. On this stage will be seen a mountain called Skole, on the S. side of the fjord, of ex- traordinary form, and said to be about 3000 ft. high. From Eide a road branches off to Christiansund, viz. Forsxthy f ; Gimnxs, If ; Chris- tiansund, 1|, by water; or from Gimmes to Fladsetli i Fredo, f, by water ; to Bolgen, f , by land ; Chris- tiansund, \ m. by water. Istad, f . Hsegeim, 1. From here another road branches off to Christiansund, viz. to Taarvih, 3| ; to Fladseth,!, where it joins the route from Eide (see above). T. Christiansund, If. This town is built upon 3 islands, and forms almost a circle round its beautiful land-locked harbour. In entering from the sea, not a vestige of a house is to be seen until the narrow pas- sage between the islands is passed, when this irregularly built town is at once opened up like magic. The three islands are named Kirkeland, Nordland, and Inland, and so irre- gular is the ground upon them that scarcely any two houses stand exactly on the same level. They are all of wood, and, as usual, covered wath red ochre. The population is about 4000. The trade of the town is fast rising in importance. It consists chiefly of stock-fish exported to Spain and Italy. Fresh fish are also cheap and abundant here — fine cod of about 4 lbs. each for Id. English. The Steamers up and down the coast call here. On the S.W. of Christian- sund is the large island of Averoen, at the N. extremity of which (half a mile distant from Christiansund) is the village of Bremnses, near which, in the mountain overhanging a farm, there is a remarkable cavern. Boute continued, from Sxgeim. The scenery again becomes romantic and beautiful, and, towards the end of the stage, the long S. branch of the Salaup Fjord comes in sight. It is called Tingvold Fjord, and the scenery upon it is very grand, parti- cularly towards the head, where it penetrates amongst the mountains of the Dovre Fjeld. There also the Sundals Elv falls into it. This grand stream takes its rise in the Dovre Fjeld, some miles S. of the celebrated 126 ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANiA TO HAMMERI^EST. Norway, mountain of Sneelisetten (Ete. 26), and throughout its course abounds in falls, cascades, and magnificent scenery ; in the lower parts of it the fishing is good. Angvik, 1, on the W. side of the fjord. From hence to the head of it at Sundalsoren there are 4 stages ; in all 3| m. ; and from thence, up Sundalen, there is a carriage-road to the village of Opdal near the Ovne (or Aune) Stat., Kte. 26. Total distance, Angvik to Ovne, 9|. The shooting in Sundalen and its neigh- bourhood is fine. Travellers from Surendal to Sundal should take boat from Kvande or Stangevik to Bok- kum, Avhence there is a road to Ulvand, ^ a mile ; Updol, 1| ; and thence by boat, 1 m., to Sundalsoren. From Angvilv the Tingvold Fjord is crossed to * BieJiken, §. This stage is across the hills to Bolseth, |. From hence there are two ways : the first, and which perhaps is the more preferable for scenery, is by water to * Surendals- oren, at the mouth of the Sura Elv, 2 miles, and thence by land to Hon- stad, 1. The second and more direct from Bolseth crosses the Hals Fjord ( another splendid branch of the Salaup Fjord, and aboundmg in magnificent scenery) by water to Stangviky f . Thence by land to Aasen, 1|. Midway on this stage the road enters Surendal at the vil- lage of Kanses, and there joins that from Sundalsiiren. The salmon and trout fishing about here and up this beautiful valley is good. * Honstad, J. * Qvammen, 11. Holte, IJ. Poor inn. Garherg, 1. About halfway on this stage a by and nearer road on the 1. leads to Trondhjem, and joins our route again at the Fandrem Stat. The stages upon it are — From Gar- berg to Langseth, 1; Moe (where there are copper works), 1 ; by ferry over Orkla Elv and Fandrem, 1. Ex- cellent salmon-fishing at Landseth ; but most of the fishing on the Orkla is taken up. The Orkla Elv (which affords tolerable salmon-fishing at times) is crossed near t Kalstad, IJ. From hence a station-road runs up the valley of the Orkla, and enters Ete. 26, near Bjerkager Stat., 3^ m. dist. See stations there, p. 162. From Kalstad the next station towards Trond- hjem is * t Gurrddal, Ig.^ Pay for IJ. There is a copper-mine near here. * t Fandrem^ \\, From hence a station-road leads to the large Island of Hitteren on the N.W., 7^ m. distant. The shooting to be had there is highly spoken of See En- virons of Trondhjem. Some steej) hills, commanding extensive and beautiful views, are passed upon tins and the next stage. From Fandrem the road proceeds by a heavy stage to * t Orkedalsoren, J. Good trout- fishing. * t Eli, 12. t Saltnxssanden, 1. There is another road from Fandrem to this place, viz. to f Sy> 1» and f Saltnxs- sanden, U. By both routes the stages are neavy. On this stage the Gula Elv is crossed by a ferry ; the scenery upon this river is very bold and picturesque — the salmon-fishing good ; the best is up the stream about Eogstad. Saltnsessanden is upon the S. branch of the Trondhjem Ijord. Heimdal, 1. A stat. on the Storen and Trondhjem Ely. About midway on this stage, our route joins the Christiania road, Ete. 26. Excellent road to Trondhjem (or Drontheim), 1|. For inns and description of this city, see Ete. 26. Trondhjem to the Namsen and Fiskum-fos. Dist. 18f Norsk miles, or 132 Eng., m orway. ROUTE 24. — TRONDHJEM TO THE NAMSEN. 127 to Hund, at the mouth of the Nam- sen; 23i or 166 Eng., to Fiskum- fos. A small steamer plies from Trondhjem to Levanger twice a week throughout the year. Enquiry should be made about this in Trondhjem. From Trondhjem to the North Cape, with very few exceptions, all the stations are good. The next town upon our route is Levanger, about 50 English miles. Leaving Trondhjem on the E. side, the road continues near the S.E. bank of the vast Trondhjem Fjord and its branches, thi-ough a rich, fertile, and highly cultivated district, but much broken with hills and masses of rocks. The road very steep in many places. Nu- merous little land-locked bays are passed, which are highly picturesque. The lateral valleys, each with its river, are fine, and afibrd ample oc- cupation for the angler. The stages are — * Haugan, 1|. The Stordals Elv is crossed by a bridge at Helle. Stordal is the largest of the lateral valleys on this side of the Trondhjem Fjord. It runs about 60 Eng. m. up the country, and its beautiful stream abounds in trout. Salmon are also caught in it. * Sandfarhuus, 1|. The road from Haugan here is new, and exceedingly good. Travellers going North should order horses here, those going to Trondhjem at Helle. It was here that in 1612, during the war between Christian IV. of Denmark and Gus- tavus Adolphus of Sweden, and after having made an ineffectual attempt upon Trondhjem, Colonel Monnich- ofen landed with a portion of the Scotch and Dutch troops he had raised for the service of the Swedish king. From hence he marched up this valley without opposition, seized upon and permanently annexed to Sweden the two provinces Jemte- lande and Hergedalen ; and then moving upon Stockholm, relieved Gustavus Adolphus from a most critical position, and enabled him to arrange advantageous terms of peace with Denmark. The rest of Colonel Monnichofen's force, led by Colonel Sinclair, landed in Romsdalen, and were destroyed by the peasants in Gudbrandsdalen. (See Ete. 26.) From Sandfarhuus a station -road leads up the valley, as far as Mseraker Hytte, 4| m. [The stations are Bfornegaard, 1| ; Lillefloren, IJ ; Reinaa, 1 ; Mseraker, 1 ; which is a good-sized village, with some iron- works near the Fos.j From Mseraker a horse-path is continued across the mountains into Sweden, near to the station at Stad, on the way to Stock- holm, Ete. 64,* and which saves a very considerable distance, instead of going through Levanger, for those who have no carriage. From Sandfarhuus a very hilly stage leads to Forhord, 1. t Vordal, 1, pay for l^. A hilly stage to t Nordre Skjerve, 1|. * Levanger y 1. Here the scenery is very lovely. There are very com- fortable lodgings in Levanger. This town is built on the E. shore of the Vairdals Fjord, a branch of the Trondhjem Fjord. In 1846 nearly all the houses were destroyed by fire. It is one of the few towns lying north of the Dovre Fjeld. "The houses," says Mr. Laing, " are re- markably good and clean ; the little parlours, the kitchens and pantries, are like those in an English maritime town; but the streets are unpaved and frightfully dirty; horses and carrioles are so general among the country people that the comfort of the pedestrian is little attended to even in considerable towns, such as Trondhjem ; while all that relates to driving, such as bridges, covered drains, and watercourses, is kept in excellent repair even on unfre- quented cross-roads." The harbour of Levanger is the most sheltered of * For Rtes. 60 upwards, ^ee'Kandiookfoi' Siveden. 128 KOUTlE 24. — OHIilSTlA^lA "HO HAMMEKt'ilS'r. jforwaij. all the inlets on the eastern coast of the §ord, and is consequently a great place of resort for fishing-vessels, and forms " a sort of commercial outport for the trade of Trondhjem." The Swedes, too, come across the fjeld in great numbers when the snow has set in, and makes the trans- port of heavy goods practicable in sledges. Tliis flord affords, in reality, by far the readiest communication with the sea for all the northern parts of Sweden as well as Norway ; in addition to being quite as near as the Gulf of Bothnia, the fjord is never impeded by ice, and is conse- quently navigable at all seasons. Two large fairs are held yearly at Levanger, one in December, the other in March ; and so fully aware are the Norsemen of the great im- portance of this situation for com- mercial purposes that several of the mercantile companies at Trondhjem have establishments here. Nothing could be more interesting than to witness one of these ftiirs, held on the very extreme frontier of the civilised world — to see the Lap- landers and the natives of Finmark from their unfrequented mountain homes come hither to exchange the produce of the chase for the few luxuries of civilised life of which they know the use or the value. Some distance from Levanger the road separates ; that to the rt. turns off to Stockholm, Kte. 33, up the beautiful valley of Vserdal, and joins Kte. 64 at the frontier; ours keeps to the N. across Vserdal. Its fine stream, the Vsera Elv, is passed by a ferry. The fishing in this river is not very good, but the scenery along its banks is lovely. The best trout-fishing is to be had towards the head of Vserdal. On this stage the soil becomes very good, and the country less rugged. Cultivation extends in all directions up the country over hill and dale, and luxu- riant crops are produced, including hops. Holmet 1|. Here the Va3rdals Elv is crossed by a bridge. From Holme one can also go to Steenkjaer, thus, viz. : — to Strommeny IJ ; Korsen, 1 ; t Steenhjser, 1 . It is a good road, though rather hilly. From hence a road leads E. to the village of Stikle- stadj which is celebrated in Norwe- gian history as being the place where St. Olaf was slain in battle, 31st August, 1030. Snorro gives a dif- ferent date, which has been proved erroneous. A cross marks the spot where Olaf fell, and the Antiquarian Society have also erected a pillar there. After being raised to the throne upon the express pledge that he would not disturb the people in their civil rights, or interfere with their religion, Olaf subsequently attempted to force Christianity upon them. His tyranny and atrocious conduct to his subjects at length drove them into rebellion, and he was compelled to quit the country upon its invasion by Canute the Great, who was thereupon pro- claimed king, A.D. 1028. Aided by forces raised in Sweden, Olaf sub- sequently attempted to recover the throne of Norway, but was met at this place by the army of Canute, and, after fighting with great bravery, was slain with most of his kinsmen and followers. Such was the conduct and fate of the man whose remains, when canonised, are stated to have performed all sorts of miracles, and to whose shrine at Trondhjem pil- grims flocked for centuries from all parts of Europe ! The church at Stiklestad is of st^ne, and very ancient. The en- trance gate is a round Norm, arch with peculiar fillet ornaments similar to those in the transept of the cathe- dral at Trondhjem. King Bemadotte visited this place in 1835. Proceeding from Holme, the next stations are — Boske, 1. I * t Steenhjfevt If. There is gene- lr< orimij. EOUTE 24.— Tll£ NAMSEN RIVER. Vl^ nilly a small steamer plying from liere to Trondhjem and back, calling at Levanger, which the traveller will do well to enquire about in Trond- hjem. Here the stream from the noble Snaasen Vand enters the Trondhjem Fjord, and the salmon- fishing is very good. Immediately on crossing the river, a station-road turns N.E. along the N. bank of the Vand, and enters the road upon the Namsen, 9| m. distant, at the Vie station, some way up the river, and near the best part for angling. The stations on this road are — Foling, 1 ; Qvam, 1 ; Byg, 1 ; Hammer, | ; Sem, 2 m. by road, or ]J by water; Home, 2|, pay for 3. Towards the end of this stage the Namsen is crossed by ferry to Vie, 1 . The Snaasen Vand is a beautiful lake ; it extends nearly 40 Eng. m. from N.E. to S.W., emptying its waters by the Snaasen Kiver into the Trondhjem Fjord. Few persons who have read Victor Hugo's ' Hans of Iceland" will be disposed to leave this interesting lake un visited. Rein- deer said to be plentiful hereabouts. From Steenkjasr the country be- comes very hilly, with vast forests of splendid pine-trees. Ostvig, 11. Upon this stage the last portion of Trondhjem Fjord is passed. A heavy stage to Elden, 1^ Overgaard, 1, pay for 1|. At the end of this stage a small branch of the Namsen Fjord is crossed to Bangsund, 1|, pay for 2. * Spillum, 1. Here there is a ferry across Bangsund, which, in good weather, takes J hour. From this place, near the next station, the far-famed Namsen Elv is crossed. This and the Alten in Lapland are esteemed the two finest salmon streams in Europe. From this place one can be set over to Namsos, f m. by land, and I m. by water over Stromhylden's ferry. Hund, \\. Skage ferry across the Namsen is passed.. This place is about 13 m. from Namsos, where tlie coasting steamers touch (see Route 25), at the mouth of TJie Namsen Biver. From Hund to Namsos there are two roads, one on the right bank of the river all the way, rather hilly; another rather longer, but less hilly, which crosses the river below Hund to the left bank, and recrosses to near Namsos. This is certainly an easier road, but no advantage in point of time is gained, owing to the delay at the two ferries. From Hund up the river a station- road runs parallel with the stream to the N.E. for about a mile, where the road separates ; that to the N. con- tinuing to Kongsmoen, at the head of the Fold en Fjord, upon the coast. The other continues up the valley of the Namsen, by Haugan, 1 ; Vie, 1|, on the right bank. There is now a good new road to Fosland. Fosland, 1. At Medja, a small stream joins Namsen ; the river now turns northwards, through a narrow and picturesque gorge with precipi- tous banks. The road now climbs a steep shoulder of the hill, obliging the traveller to follow his carriole on foot for about an English mile. Fislium, 1^. This is a small vil- lage a short distance from the Fis- kum-fos, 150 ft. high, a fine body of water. The scenery upon the route to Vefsen is in parts very fine, and the falls of the Namsen and some of its tributaries highly picturesque. ''The road continues from Fiskum to Oneforss, about a mile N. higher up the Namsen, crossing by ferry at Nas and Oneforss. The river is crossed again by those who wish to proceed to Vefsen; but there is nothing like a track except at inter- vals near the few gaards till Kass- kormo, in Ovenningdal, branching off from Vefsendal, is reached. This is 13 m. N. from (Jneforss. Between MeJUngseus, the last gaard in Namdal, and Holmvasdaly the first in Vefsen y Q 3 13Q ROUTE Si.— CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST. NoTWay, 6 111. (N.), there is not a single house, and no trace of road. On tlie whole, it cannot be called a bridle-road. There are 7 rivers to be crossed without bridge, of which the Vefsen is one, and no horse-boats at any, so that horses must be swum over. The whole distance from Trondhjem to Vefsen (Kulistadden) is 42 m. via Snaasent, or 44 m. via Spillum. Tlie writer was 11 days accomplishing it, and this was considered by the natives a quick journey. There is no accom- modation for travellers on the road, though a man who does not object to fasting, roughing it, dirt and animal companions, will find the natives very civil." — R. P. A camp of Lapps (Laplanders), with their herd of reindeer, may usually be met with on taking a guide, and keeping up the valley of the Namsen. The Lapps are a des- pised race amongst the Norwegians, whose feeling towards them is very much akin to that of the people of the United States to persons of colour. Mr. Milford's account of his visit to a Lapp camp is graphic and in- teresting. In the latter end of August, 1841, he left Ekker, upon the Namsen, in company with a schoolmaster, whose duty it was to instruct the Lapps in reading and writing during the summer months. A Lapp guide also accompanied them. Some miles beyond Fiskum-fos there is another splendid fall of the river, and the scenery generally is described as exceedingly wild and grand. After 5 days' journey up the valley, they arrived near the camp they were in search of. *' In the evening we crossed some barren mountains ; and our guide (the Lapp) desired us not to fire at a pack of ptarmigan which got up close to us, lest we should disturb the rein- deer, as he said every moment he expected to find his countrymen. Soon after, as we were walking in single file and keeping perfect silence, he stopped suddenly, and, pointing with his finger, directed our atten- tion to some smoke just seen through the twilight, curling up the side of the opposite hill. The man's manner and attitude were quite dramatic, and we had the satisfaction of feeling that our object was about to be at- tained. He now tied up his dog, and ran off, evidently much rejoiced at the idea of rejoining his wife and family. He was also anxious to in- form his countrymen who we Avere, and what brought us here, as he had some fear lest they should take alarm, and move oif with their herd. He soon returned, and at the same time we saw a large number of reindeer being driven up the valley to their quarters for the night, by a man and a boy, accompanied by a dog, whose occasional bark seemed to keep them under perfect control. Upon our arrival we found the encampment consisted of two circular tents, built of poles joined together in the centre, in the form of a cone, with cloth stretched over them. The door of the larger one was so low and small that we had some difficulty in crawl- ing in. The whole scene was highly picturesque. Each tent was occupied by a Lapp family ; every member of which gave us a most kind reception, and, heartily shaking us by the hand, at once offered us a share of their tent. We thankfully accepted their hospitality, and soon found ourselves lying on skins before a large and cheerful fire. The inmates of the tent comprised three generations ; namely, a middle-aged man and his wife, with four children and an old grandmother. The tent was made of coarse dark cloth, and the outside of it was covered with turf; around the inside were hung cheeses, blad- ders, dried gut of reindeer, guns, and various other articles. The chief part of the smoke escaped through a large opening at the top, but enough remained painfully to afiect our eyes, and to give the copper countenances of the Lapps a shade as dark as those Norway, llOUTE 24. — THE NAMSEN RIVER. 131 of Indians. The second family, who occupied the smaller tent, consisted of our late guide, Peter Johansen, his wife, and two children; they soon came to pay us a visit. His wife and daughter had light hair and fair complexions, and were pleasing in appearance. His son, a fine in- telligent boy, although under ten years of age, took his turn with the men in watching the reindeer during the night. The little fellow was dressed in his best clothes, entirely made of skins, with a girdle round his waist, and had such a protube- rance in front as to give him the ap- pearance of being stuffed, and greatly to excite laughter. He wore his knife in its case behind, and several small ornaments by his side : thus forming a complete Lilliputian Lapp in full costume. *' We were soon presented with a large bowl of reindeer milk, which is much richer than that of the cow, and has a delicate aromatic flavour, resembling the milk of the cocoa-nut ; but I found I could not take much of it with impunity, as it was more like drinking cream than milk. They also boiled for us a reindeer ham, which we found so good that, upon taking our departure next morning, we were glad to add it to our store of pro- visions. It has a wild flavour, and is quite equal to our park venison. "The old grandmother was as slirivelled as a mummy, but the other two women were by no means ill- looking. Their dress was of dark woollen cloth, with silver ornaments in front, as well as in the girdle round the waist, to which sewing implements were suspended. These ornaments were in good taste and well finished. This smart costume was put on in compliment to us. The dress of the men consisted of leather coats, and tight trousers of the same material, with reindeer-skin boots. All the females smoked ; and the old woman seemed more pleased with having her i pipe filled with tobacco from England than with any- thing else we gave her. Some luci- fer matches were also highly prized by them; and they expressed no small astonishment at the manner in which they were ignited. We re- gretted we had no fish-hooks, which they inquired for. The head of tho fiimily (Johan Nielsen) was a grave, sedate-looking man ; decision of cha- racter and intelligence were marked on his fine countenance. In reply to the questions I put to him through my interpreter, he said they were happy in the enjoyment of their wandering pastoral life ; that they confined themselves to the moun- tainous ridge which separates Nor- way from Sweden; that they had been in their present encampment eight days, and intended to remain a fortnight longer, when they would move onwards for a change of pas- ture for the reindeer. He told me that in summer they conduct these animals, which constitute their wealth, to the elevated parts of the mountains, and in the winter to the level country. His herd consisted of about 300, and it appears that a family requires nearly that number for its support. These Lapps, al- though * dwellers in tents' all the year round, are in many respects far from being uncivilised. They strictly observe the Sabbath, the best reader of the family officiating as priest, and going regularly through the Lutheran service. Occasionally they attend the church of the nearest village on the frontier of Sweden. " Our companion, the schoolmaster, is employed by the missionary society, and twice in the course of every sum- mer visits the Lapps for the purpose of instructing them. He stays for three weeks on each occasion, and divides his time between the different families who are encamped many miles apart. This man told me that all the children could read, write, and say their prayers. The Lapps have but few wants, and appear per- 13^ EOUTii 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMEllFEST. #( orway. fcctly satisfied; having no bread, they subsist almost entirely on the produce of their herds, with the oc- casional assistance of fish and game. We saw no other description of food whatever, neither have they any candles ; and when we required ad- ditional light, one of the women took a firebrand in her hand and held it up for us. On one occasion we wanted to pour some of their delicious milk into our small keg of finkel; in an instant they very in- geniously made a funnel of some of the birch-bark which hung round the tent. The sun and stars are their only clock. They had no spirituous liquors of their own making, but it is well known that they are greatly addicted to inebriety, when they go down into the valleys of Sweden or Norway. Both Nielsen and Johan- sen were great hunters, and were frequently absent from the encamp- ment for many weeks together, in search of bear, seals, and game. '* It was nearly midnight before our interesting conference was brought to a close. At length Nielsen asked us in a civil — I might almost say in a polite — manner, whether we felt dis- posed to sleep. To this we assented ; and when all was quiet, I surveyed with no little interest the scene around me. Our host lit his pipe, by way of a soporific, laid down his head on his hard pillow, and com- fortably puffed himself to sleep. One of the children coming in late, the old grandmother lifted up her large reindeer covering, and inclosed the young herdsman within its ample folds. It was a fine night, and we felt no Inconvenience either from heat or cold. We were, however, as closely packed in the tent as negroes in a slave ship. I slept soundly notwithstanding. *' We rose at five o'clock, and after breakfasting on the flesh and milk of the reindeer, went up the hill to see the animals themselves. The whole herd was brought together for our inspection ; they had sleek skins, and were in the finest condition imagin- able, many of their branching antlers being of immense size, and covered with the softest A^elvet. We Avere informed that they suffered more from heat than from cold. Nielsen's eldest boy, a fine youth of 16, now threw a species of lasso round the horns of one of the deer, and the process of milking the herd began. They yield a very small quantity of milk, but this is made up for by the richness of its quality. They are remarkably quiet and gentle, and the Lapps are almost as fond of them as of their children. "After purchasing some skins, horns, and lines which we saw the women making from strips of the sinews of the reindeer, by chewing the ends and twisting one piece on to another till it was of sufficient length, we bade adieu to the Lapps. " Very little is known of the origin of these honest, simple, and hos- pitable people ; they are considered by some to be descended from abori- ginal Norwegians ; but by others they are supposed to have sprung from a colony of Finns, although at the pre- sent day they are very unlike that race. From the earliest times they , have led a nomade life. Their move- ments, however, are chiefly regulated by the quantity of moss {Cenomyce rangiferina) in the different localities essential for their reindeer, and which is more abundant in Sweden than in Norway ; but the temperature of the former country is found to be too mild for these animals, who require the bracing air and eternal snows of the latter to preserve their health. The moss can flourish only amidst snow, and in a uniformly low tem- perature ; without the moss the rein- deer would perish, and on their herds entirely depends the prosperity, nay, the very existence of the Lapps. It is this animal which sui3plies them with clothing, food, the means of locomotion, and of maintaining what- Norway. ilotTE 24. — THE JfAMSEK EIVER. i33 ever else tlieir simple habits require. No other climate will suit these animals; the exj^eriment of intro- ducing them into Scotland has in- variably failed. " The milk of the reindeer is highly valuable; its flesh also supplies a nutritious food during a great part of the year ; its sinews are made into thread and cord ; its horns into spoons and other domestic utensils, and its skin furnishes the. main por- tion of the Lapp's dress. This ani- mal bears a great resemblance to the stag, but is rather smaller. The females are driven home morning and evening to be milked, and yield about the same quantity as a she-goat. " The reindeer-moss grows almost everywhere upon these mountains in great abundance : this vegetable, which, after a long continuance of heat and drought, appears withered and dead, immediately recovers new life from the rain. Dry and valueless as it looks, it is a most important gift to this wild region, for it is the chief support of many thousands of rein- deer on the barren summits of the mountains through all the severity of the winter. The deer remove the snow with their feet to the depth of 5 or 6 ft. to get at this food, and they cannot thrive nor even live without it for any length of time." — Milford's * Norway,' c. viii. The general shooting up this grand valley of the Namsen is good, and it becomes better, as the Swedish fron- tier is approached. The bear, lynx, and glutton are at times met with, besides capercailzie, woodgrouse, and an abundance of ptarmigan. The woods and forests are of vast extent, and contain splendid pine-trees; they also abound with the yellow molte- berry, raspberries, red currants, and strawberries of delicious flavour. Salmon-fishing in the Namsen. — Namsen is considered the best salmon river in Norway. Fish attain an immense size, but it is idle for tra- vellers to expect permission to fish there. English gentlemen have been in the habit of going there regularly for fishing for the last 12 years, and all the waters are held as strictly upon leases as the rivers of Scotland or Ireland. Salmon cannot get higher up the river than Fiskum-fos. The fishing begins at Haugan, but it is very indifferent so low down, except for a short time quite early in the season, or after an extraordinary flood. The three most choice fishing stations are Fiskum, Godtland, and Ekker Ferry, comprising in all about 6 to 8 Eng. m. of water, with com- fortable room for 6 rods, 2 at each station. There are good quarters to be had at each of these places, and the charge for food, lodging, and at- tendance averages about J a dollar, 2s. Sd. a day. Boats are used for fishing in this river; each boat has 2 men, who are paid 2 marks, about Is. 9d. each, besides which they ex- pect the salmon not wanted for the angler's own use, and which is di- vided between the 3 stations. Above the Fos the trout fishing is excellent. " That distinguished fisherman, Sir H. Parker, killed on this river a salmon of 60 pounds' weight, after a little more than an hour's battle. It was caught on a No. 6 or 7 hook ; wings, two golden tippets dyed crim- son, sprigged with mallard, teal, golden pheasant, and Argus phea- sant ; horns, blue macaw ; head, black ; body, claret hog's wool ; tag, red mohair ; ribbed gold twist. On the same day he bagged 9 others, one of 40 lbs., one 30 lbs., one 18 lbs., one 15 lbs., and the rest from 8 lbs. downwards." — Vid. Barnard's ' Sport in Norway.' The season here varies a little, but it is comprised in the 3 months of June, July, and August ; the finest part is usually about the end of June to that of July. Four English gentle- men who were here for 2 months in 1841 each killed 1000 lbs. weight of salmon. Their largest fish weighed 47 lbs. In fact, it appears that at 134 ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANiA TO haMmerfest. NoTwdy. the proper season the river is so abundantly stocked with fish that success becomes a matter of certainty. Neither is there much science re- quired here to kill from 100 to 150 lbs. of salmon, grilse, and trout in a day, as, fishing from a boat, all the i most likely places can be got at ; and ' when a heavy fish is hooked, it can easily be followed up or down the stream. The Kohbe (seal) is very troublesome in the Namsen, at times. A glimpse of a seal clears the river of the fish in an instant ; they are stupefied with fear, and seek for shelter in the deepest holes and other hiding-places, which no fly, be it ever so tempting, will induce them to leave, until their much dreaded ene- my has disappeared. — Milford's * Nor- way,' c. iv. The Steamer between Trondhjem and Hammerfest calls at Namsos at the mouth of the river, on her way both up and down the coast. (See Kte. 25.) From the Namsen to Hammerfest, by Boat — M'aelstrom. The following stations are inserted for the use of travellers by open boats. The steamers touch at more stations, and sometimes dijfferent to those named. It is presumed that travellers, for any distance along the coast, will make use of the steamers ; and that the names of the boat sta- tions given here will be sufficient for those who make short excursions, either along the coast or to and from the steamer to any point where they may wish to land. Printed lists of the stations at which the steamers touch, and of the days and hours, are Imng up on board, and are so easily understood that it has been thought useless to transcribe them ; the more 80 because the times, and even sta- tions themselves, are liable to change, as the nights lengthen in the autumn. These printed lists may be obtained in Ohristiania. The scenery on the first and second day from Trondhjem is not very striking; the cliffs and rocks are round - topped and insignificant — roches moutonne'es, Professor Forbes terms them, rounded by the action of ice. N. of the Arctic Circle, however, the cliffs become more peaked, and assume grander forms. If fortunate enough to have a fine day in crossing Vest Fjord, where the steamer stretches over to the Loffodens, the traveller will see one of the finest sea views in the world. On the S.W. there is the open sea ; on the W. and N. the sharp-pointed peaks of the Loffodens rise nearly perpendicularly out of the water : covered, where not too steep, with snow almost to the water's edge, till quite late in the summer. Huge, rugged rocks they are as you approach them ; their tops like extinct craters, which have fallen in, now filled with snow. Later in the summer, as the snow melts, nu- merous miniature waterfalls pour down over the sides of the cliffs, and at the bottom patches of green, and a few fishermen's huts begin to be seen, till at length the steamer creeps in through a narrow passage to the fishing station of Balstad. On the E. of Vest Fjord lofty peaks of snowy mountains rear their heads far away towards the frontiers of Sweden. I believe there are few views of its kind to be compared to that from the middle of Vest Fjord. On leaving Vest Fjord, the steamer winds its way up Kafte Sund, a lovely channel, to Steilo in Ulvoen, a pretty little island almost out on the open ocean. " The best station for a view of the midnight sun would be a small hill N. of Stocknses, near Steilo. On the S. side, the northern mountains of Loffoden would be seen splen- didly illuminated, and the view on the N. side is over open sea. The steamer does not stop quite long enough at Stocknses."— (r. B. A. Perhaps one of the most striking- features of the Loffodens are the Norway, BOUl^E 24. — a^HE MAELSTKOM. 135 enormous numbers of sea - fowl. Gulls and eider-ducks innumerable ; so numerous are the latter, and so tame, that it is sometimes necessary for the steamer to go half-speed in the narrow channels to avoid running- over the young ones. The famous " Maelstrom," of which English geography books relate that whales and other monsters are sucked into it, is in a narrow passage be- tween two of the LoiFodens. We insert an account of it from the pen by Dr. Charlton. " The dangerous current and sup- posed whirlpool of the Maelstrom lies at the S. end of the Loffoden Isles, between the islets of Moskenses and Vaeroe. Its real perils are pro- duced by the tremendous current that rushes in and out of the Great West Fjord that lies between the LoiFodens and the western coast of Norway. Dangerous currents are thus occasioned between most of the Loifoden Isles, such as the Galstrom, the Napstrom, and the Gimstrom ; but the chief current is directed between Moskenses and Vaeroe, con- stituting the famous Maelstrom. When the wind blows from certain quarters, and particularly from the N.W., and meets the returning tide in the Strait, the whole sea between Moskenses and Vaeroe is thrown into such agitation that no boat could live in it for a moment. In calm weather it is only three-quarters of an hour before the flood tide that the boatmen venture to cross ; for, with the stillest and most glassy water outside, the Maelstrom is dangerously agitated, except at the period above mentioned. The " set " of the tide through the Strait is at first towards the S.E.; it then, after the flood, turns from the S. towards the S.W., and finally, towards the N.W. ; so in 12 hrs. the circle of the current is completed. This is rather a slow proceeding on the part of a whirl- pool, but the agitation of the current arises from an immense body of water being forced by the flowing tide into the narrow passage between the isles. In addition to this the depth de- creases most suddenly as the stream enters the Straits. Outside, on the W. of the Lofibdens, the soundings show a depth of 100 to 200 fathoms, while in the Straits, and in the West Fjord, it suddenly shoals from 16 to 30 fathoms, and the whole weight of water from the North Sea is suddenly compressed between the clifls of Mos- kenses and Vaeroe. As to the stories of ships being sw^allowed up in the vortex, they are simply fables ; but any ship that became involved in the current would probably be driven on the sunken rocks and reefs in the Strait if it did not founder from the fury of the waves. The Maelstrom is quite out of the track of the Nord- land ' Ja3gts ' with their odoriferous cargo of dried fish, and no other vessels are called upon to take this course. Nor are whales ever sucked down by the greedy whirlpool, though the following circumstances may account for this part of the legend. " On the Island of Flagstadt, which lies a little to the N. of Moskenses, there is a narrow inlet called Qual- viig between the rocks opposite to the farmhouse of Sund. This inlet or passage is at first extremely deep, and then suddenly shoals to about 16 ft. In this narrow cleft a very considerable number of whales have Avithin the memory of man run them- selves ashore. We know not what attraction draws these generally wary animals to this narrow creek, but once in the canal it is impossible for the whale to retreat, as he requires a large space to turn his body, and grounding with the falling tide the huge monster is left there to struggle with his fate. Large whales are known to have lived 8 days in this natural trap, and the people say their bellowings and struggles were fearful to behold. About the beginning of the present century an enormous male * fish ' was fast embayed here, 136 R. 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO HAMMERFEST — TORGHATTEN. N Of Way. and ere the sun was set he was fol- lowed by his mate, who shared his imprisonment and death. This hap- pened at the time that Mr. Sverdrup occupied the farm of Sund, and from the good luck that befell him, from 20 whales and more being stranded here during his occupancy, he ob- tained the surname of the ' King of the Loffodens.' " — Notes and Queries, April 3, 1858. From Namsos at the mouth of the Namsen to Hammerfest by boat is 88| Norsk m., or 584 Eng. From the Hund Station to Vemundirh, IJ, upon the coast; and from hence, with the exception of part of one stage, all the rest of the journey to the N. Cape is by water. Seierstad, 1|. From hence the Folden Fjord is crossed to Strand. This little frequented tract is in- habited by myriads of water-fowl, that breed here undisturbed, and the traveller may chance to have his meditations disturbed by the sudden appearance of a whale close to his boat. — Everest's * Norway,' p. 56. Strand, 2. Up an arm of the fjord to Finve, 1\. * Aarfor, 2. Foldereid, 1. Here the hills are crossed to a branch of the Bindals Fjord, down which the stage con- tinues to * Teradk, 2. On leaving the Bin- dals Fjord, towards the end of the stage, the lofty island of Leko is seen on the S.W. Our route now lies up the coast to * Steensden, 3. The mountains upon the coast now become lofty and precipitous. Torghatten, a curious rock upon the island of Torget, is passed on the 1. upon this stage. It is upwards of 1000 ft. high, and perforated in the middle by an orifice, through which the sky appears. " It is of granite, and its form» as seen from the S., is not unlike the peaked waterproof hats sometimes worn by sailors, whence in fact its name, ' Torget' s Hat.' ' Forbes, in p. 45 of his book, speaks as if he had not seen into, or through, the aperture. I cannot understand how this hap- pened ; I saw well through the aperture, and for a considerable time, and I was assured that the steamer always takes the same course here. I have no doubt that the perforation is sufficiently large to contain a church. The opening appears to have been produced by the degradation of a huge mass, or vein, of mica." — Frof. Airy. The hole is said to be 70 or 80 ft. high, and 40 ft. wide, and is about 700 ft. above the sea. * Salhuus, 2. The boatmen up this coast are most skilful and ex- cellent, but the squalls from the mountains are sudden and dangerous ; and we must again repeat the caution never to allow the sheet to be fixed in sailing, but always to have it kept in hand. The love of finkel is the boatmen's great fault, and in some cases care must be taken to prevent their indulging in too fi-equent liba- tions. Forvih, 2^. * Sovih, 2 J. This station is upon the large and highly cultivated island of Alsten, separated from the small island of Tjotoe by an arm of the sea. In the 11th century it was the residence of a celebrated chieftain named Haarek, a contemporary of St. Olaf. From hence may be seen the extraordinary peaks of mountains called the Seven Sisters; and also the lofty Donna-oe. Von Buch esti- mates their height at above 4000 ft. At Sovik passengers for Vefsen leave the steamer. Vefsen is one of the best salmon rivers for its size in Nor- way, by all accounts. An English gentleman in the summer of 1853 killed a fish of 62 lbs. there. * Sannossden, 1\. Sannossoen is the best station for Vefsen, when the boats do not come up the Vefsen Fjord. This is the case each alter- nate trip ; they then call at Kulstad- sorway. EOUTite 24. — loffodJsn islands — bodo. 187 soen, which lies 4^ m. N. from Tjotoe up the fjorci, instead of Sovik. * Kobberdal, 1|. Passengers for Ranen land here. The Eanen is a fine river, but the accounts of the salmon-fishing are rather contradic- tory. * Bonnxs, f . Upon the mainland to the E. of this is the largest glacier in Norway, with the exception of Justedalsbrse (near Leirdalsoren, Ete. 21). This glacier is between Bejern and Ranen, in the province of Nord- land. In several districts of this province the rivers flow in subterranean pas- sages for some distance, and then re- appear ; the two largest of these are Jardbluelv, in Saltdal, and the Prug- ra, in Ranen. * Luroso, 2|. On this stage the coast continues exceedingly moun- tainous, with wild fowl in myriads. Some miles to the W. are seen the four peaks of the islands of Threnen, rising erect as towers from the water. Immediately on passing them, the line of The Arctic Circle is crossed, and near that point a curiously formed cliff is seen, called Hestmands-oen (Horseman's Island) ; it has the ap- pearance of a huge man on horseback swimming through the water. The coast is here of the wildest descrip- tion; precipitous mountains piled upon each other in every variety of form, with their hundred snow-capped peaks ; " a correct picture of it would appear to be anything but the repre- sentation of sober reality." — Everest's * Norway,' p. 63. * Selsovik, 1|. * Svinser, 2. * Slot, 2J. * Nord Arnxn, 3J. On this stage the mouth of the Salten Fjord is crossed to * BoDO, 2|, "Nordland's By," the chief and only town in the province of Nordland. The steamers stop here for 6 hours to coal. On the marsh in September and the end of August, ryper and snipe may be found. It is worth while to walk out to the Ch.^ about 3 Eng. m. E. of the town. There is a curious monumental slab on the S. wall outside, to a clergy- man, who died in 1660. The spruce fir is not found farther N. than about the line of the Arctic Circle. Scotch fir takes its place in the forests ; this again does not reach much farther N. than latitude 70°, though there may be some stunted specimens farther N. Woodcocks also and " hjerpe " (the hazel-hen), will not be found N. of the Arctic Circle. Bodo is a small place at present containing about 300 Inhab., three or four of whom are merchants ; it is also the residence of the Amt- mand, the Judge, and Sheriff. It was some years since selected by the Norwegian Government as the site of a commercial town, on account of its advantageous situa- tion, and especially of its vicinity to the great fishing banks of Loffoden ; but, notwithstanding these advan- tages, it seems to have remained nearly stationary. " Bodo is the southernmost coaling station for the coasting steamers at which the mid- night sun can be seen; and as the southern-bound steamer does not start till 1 A.M., there is time to see it. I would indicate the following course to a good station. Land at the stairs and turn to the left (northerly). After walking about half a mile, turn through a gate to the 1. upon a by-road. Continue on this (sometimes a good road), some- times a mere track in the moor towards a defile in the hills, which the road ascends. Near the top, at a bifurcation, take the 1. path, and incline still to the 1. The ridge is thus gained at a place commanding an open view to the N., with the mainland cliffs to the right, and a huge mountain, island, or island- mountain to the 1., and the northern peaks of Loffoden, about 70 m. dis- tant, in front. I have seldom seen 138 ROUTE 24. — CHRISTIANIA TO haMmerfest. Norway. a more majestic sight than that of the midnight sun gliding horizon- tally over these peaks. Everything seems as light as at midday, but with an air of great beauty and softness. But when the sun has sensibly risen, as by 1 o'clock, the splendour is in- expressible. It seemed culpable to go to bed. ^ "The station which I have men- tioned is about three-quarters of an hour from Bodo. The midnight sun is visible there from about June 1st to July 10th."— G^. B. A. From Bodo to the head of the Salten Fjord is about 6 m., which may be done in from 9 hrs. to 2 days, depending upon the wind. There is good accommodation at Saltnses, at the head of the fjord, but dear. The river there is not worth much as a salmon river, and the houses on the banks are dirty. There is little to see on the fjord, except the Sal- tenstrom, a whirlpool in a narrow passage of the fjord, like the Mael- strom in miniature, but, though smaller, more dangerous. The best place to sleep on the ijord, if a con- trary wind entails a passage of 2 days, is at Skierstad. The only ob- ject in going up the Salten Fjord is to visit an encampment of Lapps, some of whom may generally be seen with their reindeer on the fjeld, within 2 m. of Saltnses (but Lapps rnay be seen far better from Trom- so), or to ascend the Sulitjelma Mountains on the frontier of Sweden, the highest peak of which is about 6000 N. ft. above the sea. They are the highest hills N. of Trondhjem,but otherwise there is no object in visit- ing them. There are magnificent views seaward from the Blaamand Fjeld above Saltnses. The scenery around Bodo is of the wildest kind. About 1^ m. S.E. is Biirfjeld, with its picturesque peaks, snowy ravines, and black precipices, while to the S.W. the mountains tower above each other into the far distance. Sandhorn is one of them, and the highest point in this neigh- bourhood. The view from its sum- mit is of vast extent. The long range of the Loffoden Islands is seen 70 or 80 Eng. m. distant, like the jaws of a great shark, so many and so jagged are their grand points, which rise 3000 or 4000 ft. above the sea. In the foreground the islands, bays, and lakes are countless. It is in the neighbourhood of the Loffo- dens that the millions of cod are annually caught during the winter (from the middle of February to that of April), and which form the staple article of trade in the towns upon the W. coast. It has been calculated from official returns that in an average year the cod-fisheries off these islands were carried on by 2916 boats, having 124 tenders, and in all carrying 15,324 men ; the pro- duce being upwards of 16 millions of fish, 21,500 barrels of cod's liver oil, and 6000 barrels of cod's roe. {Laing's ' Norway,' c. vi.) " The fishery is exclusively carried on in open boats. The fishermen hang up the larger portion of the fish, which is dried and ready for shipment by about midsummer ; this is stock-fish. A considerable quantity is, however, sold fresh to traders (citizens) of Tromso, Trondhjem, Christiansand, Molde, and Bergen, who enjoy, in common with the privileged mer- chants of the district, the right of trading during the fishing season; this they salt down in their vessels, and afterwards convey to particular places along the neighbouring coast, where the climate is less humid than in the Loffodens, and also where there is facility for drying it on the flat rocks, 'Klipper.' This is known in commerce as Klip-fish, and differs little from the * Bacalao' of Newfoundland." — W. On the shore acres of rock are covered with the split filsh laid out to dry, or col- lected in piles like hay-ricks. Norway, ROUTE 24. — TROMSU. 139 The whole voyage along and among the Loffodens is through scenery of the grandest and wildest description, at times through narrow walled-in defiles, at others across opening sea lochs. * Kierringo, 3. * Ilelnxs, 2i * LovOy 2. From hence there are stations to some of the Lofibden Islands, across the Vest Fjord, 3 m. dist. Fikke, 3. Upon this stage the jQord gradually narrows, the Loifo- dens being close upon the W. ; and the sceneiy is wild and desolate in the extreme. Bseroen, 3. From hence our route winds through channels between the islands and the mainland all the way to Tromso, the mountains at times most grand and picturesque in form. Shortly before the end of this stage the district of Finmarken is entered. * Sandtorvholm, 2|. Upon this stage Trondenses is passed. Its church is considered to be the hand- somest in the N. of Trondhjem, and one of the oldest in Norway ; it was the chapel of a monastery formerly situated here, of which it is now the only remains existing. There is a Normal school esta- blished here, supported by the State, for the education of parish school- masters. * Havnik, 3. * Dypvik, 2^. Sor Eussevaag, If. * Gibostad, 1|, on the island of Senjen. This island has the reputa- tion of abounding in bears. Between Gibostad and Tromso the Malangen Fjord is crossed; the Mons River flows into the head of this fjord. The salmon-fishing, it is said, is pretty good in it, but, like most other Norwegian rivers, it is rented by Englishmen. Professor Munch is inclined to place the northern limit of the early colonisation by the Northmen at this point for various reasons. Supposing, according to his view, the stream of colonisation to have come N. of the Gulf of Bothnia, either round the coast in ships from Archangel, or by forcing a path over the mountains (and there is a pass leading out to this very fjord from Tornea, and Russian Finland), he imagines this to have been the first inviting-looking spot, which might have tempted the early colonists to land, and settle. The names of places along the coast S. of this fjord undoubtedly bear a Scandinavian form, while to the N. of it they are no less remarkably Finnish. For his various reasons for supposing colonisation to have taken place by way of the N., see his 'Norsk Folks Historic,' vol. i. book i. * Tromso, 3|. Ludwigsens Hotel ; very fair accommodation. This town is of comparatively recent date. It is one of those established on this coast after the Danish octroi system had received its death-blow, and now owes its prosperity to the ex- tensive fisheries along the coast, and the brisk foreign trade which this lucrative branch of industry has created. The town is pleasingly situated on the E. side of the island, in the centre of the fjord, from which it takes its name. It is the residence of the bishop, Stift Amtmand, and several subordinate authorities, and contains about 1500 Inhab., being nearly double what the population was in 1 840. The town and district return one member to the Storthing. There are generally some Russian vessels here from Archangel and the coasts of the White Sea. They bring corn, which they exchange for dried fish. The crews of these vessels are fine, brawny, picturesque-looking fel- lows. The vice of drunkenness pre- vails to a fearful extent amongst the lower classes in this place. From Tromso there are fine views of the mountainous island of Kvalo on the W. ; and from Tromso the Bens-fjord 140 ROUTE 24.— CHRISTIANIA TO BAMMERFEST. NoTWaij. and its terrific glacier may be visited. The steamer usually stops a day here. The Ftarmigan-shooting upon the neighbouring mainland and islands is excellent. They have a curious custom here, and indeed in other parts of Nor- way, of lighting huge fires and letting off fireworks on the eve of St. Hans day, June 23 (Midsum- mer Day). Seen from the hill above the town, they have an ex- ceedingly good effect, though there be a bright sun shining at the time. There is a similar custom of light- ing bonfires on Midsummer Eve in the S. of France and other parts of Europe, as well as in the W. of Cornwall. The view at 10 or 11 o'clock at night from the hill above Tromso, if it be fine and clear, is worth walking up to see. "At Tromso, which is a coaling station, the midnight sun can be seen very well from the anchorage. On my southward voyage, I saw at Tromso the rare sight of a rain- bow foraied by the midnight sun. *' I was assured by a traveller that he had repeatedly lighted his tobacco pipe by the rays of the midnight sun. And every voyager makes a point, if possible, of burning a hole in his coat. When I saw the sun highest, the sky was too watery to allow this."— 6?. B. A. A Lapp encampment is generally to be seen in Tromsdal on the E. side of the fjord. It is more easily reached than the encampment in the valley of Namsen, or on the Salten Fjord. It is a sight worth seeing. The huts are covered with birch-bark, which is used for roofing all over Norway. Even in the solid log-houses with which the country of Norway is filled, and the plank- houses in the towns, all solidly planked in the roofs, the sub- stance which really keeps out the rain is birch-bark, inserted between the layers of roof plank. The outer bark of the birch is used for tanning nets, &c., the inner bark is stripped in sheets resembling hides, and almost as large. The horns of the reindeer grow to an enormous size, reaching as high as a man's shoulder when the deer are lying down. Some of the herd are so tame that they will allow you to step over them, and stand by them, as if they were cows, in the place of which, indeed, they stand to the Lapp. On leaving Tromso, our route con- tinues between the islands and main- land by * FinkroJcen, 2, pay for 2f . This stage is down the JJlfs Fjord, be- tween which and the Lyngen Fjord there is a gigantic chain of moun- tains. It is said that the Russians are very desirous to obtain possession of Lyngen Fjord, by fair or foul means, for a harbour on the Northern Ocean, which is never frozen. Only 3 or 4 Norsk m., say 25 Eng., inter- vene at present between the western- most boundary of Russian Finland and the head of this fjord; and there is no doubt that the Russians aro very desirous to make this last stride to the open sea. In 1853 they endeavoured to pick a quarrel with Norway by giving orders that all Norwegian reindeer, which crossed the frontier, were to be shot ; at the same time forbidding their own Lapp subjects to enter Norway. Near the mouth of the Lyngen Fjord, and close to the steamer's course, two glaciers are to be seen, coming close down to the water's edge. There is one in Kvsenangen Fjord, N.E. of Lyngen, which is actually washed by the sea. — Forbes* ' Norway,' p. 78. " Near the mouth of the Lyngen Fjord, on the S. side, is a very per- fect glacier, coming low, but not down to the sea. The cracked fan structure of its lower face reminded me of the Rhone glacier. This is the only very perfect glacier that I ^^Korway. BOUTE 24. — THE ALTEN RIVEE. 141 saw. I do not entirely identify it with any of those mentioned by Forbes."— G^. B. A. * Karlso, 2, pay for 2|. * Skjervo, 3, pay for 4^. About 3 m. S. of this station the Reisen Elv enters the fjord. It is a large stream, and little known at present ; it was tried once, and did not turn out very well. There is a good deal of water from a glacier in the river. [Those who are desirous of visiting The Alien River, and who do not proceed there by the steamer, should take boat from Skjervo to Alteidet, 3, from there cross the isthmus to Sopnses (about I) on Lang Fjord, and thence again by boat up the Alton Fjord to Talvik, 3 m., and Alten (near the mouth of the river), 1 m., in all, 8f . The Steamers to and from Hammer- fest call at Bosehop (where there is a good Inn), in the Alten Fjord, and only 1 m. by land from Alten. A fair is held here in the latter end of No- vember, and in March, which is largely attended by Finns and Lapps from the mountains, as well as by Swedes. The Alten is navigable for about 4 m. from its mouth. A horse-path runs a long way up the valley of this stream, and across the mountains, over a strip of the Eussian territory, into Sweden (see Etc. 34). Altengaard, near the mouth of the river, was formerly the residence of the Amtmand ; it is now the head- quarters of a Eoman Catholic mis- sion, which has been establislied about 3 years, hitherto without making many converts. Alten is the most extensive and productive valley in the N., and is in every respect, both as to climate and style of scenery, different to the districts which the traveller has been passing through ; here vegeta- tion appears to flourish ; the fir, the birch, the willow, and mountain-ash are abundant ; even corn-fields and cultivated meadows are seen ; and after the wild and desolate scenery, among which the earlier part of the voyage has been made, this change is a relief both to the mind and the eye. In several parts of the Alten valley, the traveller will meet with as soft and pleasing scenery as any Alpine country can present ; indeed the impression on the first view is that of an oasis, formed by nature as a resting-place in the midst of rug- gedness and desolation. In a lateral valley, on the S. side of the Alten Fjord, lie the Alten Copper Works, belonging to an Eng- lish company, the establishment of which has contributed greatly to the prosperity of the district. The gentlemen who are resident there are most obliging in giving information as to the best parts of the river, the proper boat to be taken, provi- sions, &c., as there are no station- houses. There are some remarkable marine terraces, or ancient sea-beaches, near Alten, and indeed on other parts of the coast of Finmark. Those near Alten are peculiar, in that they are not continuous at the same exact level above the sea, but incline in such a way as to show that the coast has not only been raised bodily out of the water, but in an unequal manner, the part towards Hammer- fest having emerged less than the part towards Bosekop. The highest is 240 Eng. ft. above the sea. — Forbes' ' Norway,' pp. 84-90. As a salmon stream, some anglers consider the Alten superior to the Namsen.* It is now quite as well * " I have had a great many salmon opened in my presence — those caught in the Alten P^ord, before they reached the river, were full of young herrings or smelts (the Salmo arcticus, 1 believe) ; but 1 never could dis- cover anything in those caught after they had been 24 hours in the river."— -T^. 142 EOUTE 24. — TANA ELV — LOPPEN. Norway, known, and as regularly fished, as Nam sen. Mosquitoes swarm here at times. A tribe of Finlanders or Kvsens (Kvsener in Norwegian) are settled at Alton ; many of the boat- men on the river speak nothing but Kvsenish. They are admirable boat- men, but they are not famous for the love of truth and honesty, which generally distinguishes the Norwe- gian peasants. The general shooting up the valley of the Alton is good (see Kte. 34), and the numerous falls of the river and its tributaries are highly pic- turesque. The Tana Elv is a splendid stream, and its tributaries large and nume- rous. It rises in the mountains S.E. of the Alton, and for a long distance is the boundary between Kussia and Norway. It falls into the Tana Fjord about 80 Eng. m. to the E. of the North Cape. The Tana and its tributaries have been explored by 4 or 5 parties of fishermen in the last few years. Undoubtedly there are large fish there, and a great ex- tent of fishing water, it being 20 Norsk m. from Karasjok to Tana mouth. Salmon ascend above Karas- jok. A great part of the river, however, consists of broad shallow lakes, one may almost call them, where there is no chance of killing a fish, so that the actual extent of water to be fished is considerably reduced. Mosquitoes swarm, and there is no escape from them, except within a tent. There are no houses on the bank, so that all necessaries have to be carried. It would seem from the same party never going there a second time that the fishing did not compensate for the discom- fort to be endured. See Introduc- tion, § 9. There are two modes of arriving at Tana ; one from Alton across the mountains to Karasjok, where boats may be obtained to descend the river; the other is by leaving the Hammerfest and Vadso steamer in the Tana Fjord, and ascending the river as far as may be thought fit. By the former route, horses, provisions, and a guide must be taken from Alten ; it will require about 3 days to do the 16 m. be- tween Alten and Karasjok. Some wretched mountain-huts exist, where it is possible to sleep on the way. Some little distance up the Alten a horse-track diverges across the mountains to the E. for 3 or 4 m., and then enters the valley of one of the tributaries of the Tana, and keeps along that valley till its junc- tion with the river, about 8 m. The road then continues (with the ex- ception of a small interval) all the way down the valley of the Tana to its junction with the fjord, about 80 Eng. m., and never leaves the Nor- wegian territory. Care must be taken not to enter the Russian terri- tory without having a passport properly vise for Russia, or the con- sequences may prove unpleasant. From the mouth of the Tana there are water-stations to the North Cape, viz, from Guldholmen to Hopseidet, 5 m.; there cross a small isthmus, and on by water to Svserholt, 5 ; and Kjelvik, at the North Cape, 3 ; in aU, 13 m.] The direct route to the North Cape continued from Skjervo. — Large shoals of a fish called Sey (coal-fish) are seen oif this part of the coast ; much used by the inhabitants for food. From Skjervo a fine glacier is visible on Kaagoe. The atmospheric effects about here in winter are sublime. The sun is lost early in November, when his rays, for a short time, alone illumine the tops of the mountains. They are of the most lovely rose colour, while clouds and vapour render all beneath and around them dark, mysterious, and indistinct. * Loppen, 2|, pay for 3J. This small island lies open to the whole Norivaij. ROUTE 24. HAMMEEFEST. 143 force of the Atlantic. Whales are frequently seen about here. From hence the Soro Sund is entered to * Hammekfest, 7, pay for 8f . There is no decent inn at Hammer- fest. Accommodation must be found in a private house, and it is not always easily obtained. This town of scattered wooden houses is cele- brated as being the most northern town in the world, and also for its lively trade, being the resort of English, Russian, Dutch, Swedish, Danish, and German traders, but particularly Russian, who swarm on the coast during the three summer months; although situated in so high a northern latitude, 70° 49', the temperature, even in winter, is so mild that the waters along the coast and at the bottom of the deepest fjords never freeze ; the inhabitants are consequently enabled to carry on the sea-fishing in boats during the whole winter. The town is infested with the odour of cod-liver oil, prepared here in large quantities. Skins of white bear, silver fox, &c., may be bought here. An English vice-consul resides here. The Spitzbergen trade is likewise a most important branch here. Small sloops of 30 or 40 tons are fitted out for it from hence, and carry 6 or 8 hands. They leave here in May, and wait at the edge of the ice till it is sufficiently thawed to enable them to near the land. Reindeer, walrus, white bears, cod, and eider-down, are the objects sought for. This trade has given to Hammerfest a more enterprising set of seamen than any other port in Norway. Their boldness and dex- terity in destroying the white bear with lances is extreme. These beasts are not much dreaded in the summer, but when pressed by hunger in the winter, they become very daring in their attacks. A i story is told of two Russians who | were playing at draughts by the window of their hut, when a great white paw pushed through the pane, seized one of them by the neck, and attempted to drag him out. He escaped with the loss of a pawful of his hair. " The N.W. boundary of Hammer- fest harbour is a long narrow pen- insula, called Fuglenses. Near its extremity are the harbour light, a battery, and the house and large fishing establishment of Mr. Robert- son. " Immediately in the rear of the consul's house is a granite pillar, surmounted by a bronze globe with projecting axis, indicating the plane of the celestial pole, and on two sides of the pillar are inscriptions, one in Latin, the other in Norse, explaining that this is the most important station, though not abso- lutely the terminal station (which was on the North Cape) of the great European arc of meridian, whose southern termination is on the Danube. It was undertaken by the Sovereigns of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, 1816-52. *' On the same spot, or within an insignificant distance of it. Captain Sabine (now Lieutenant-General Sabine, President of the Royal Society) made an important series of pendulum experiments in 1823. Fuglenses was one of a chain of stations extending nearly from the Equator to the Pole, at which pen- dulum observations were made for obtaining the variation of gravity on the earth's surface." — G. B. A. Numbers of Lapps may be seen here and upon the neighbouring- coast. Like their neighbours, the Kvsens, they are sadly addicted to drunkenness at times. With this exception, the total absence of anxiety of mind among them, their few and simple wants, and the high state of health and spirits engen- dered by their hardy habits, make them creatures rather deserving of 144 ROUTE 24. HAMMERFEST. Norway. envy than pity. The Lapp will go for 30 Eng. m. through swamp and over rock, take his draught of milk, lie down in his wet clothes, and awake the next morning as fresh as when he began his journey. Hammerfest is on the island of Kvaloe. The island was once well wooded, but there are now hardly any trees left, as they have been cut down for firewood, and no young ones planted to take their place. Much drift-wood is brought by the Gulf Stream here. " Think of Arctic fishers burning upon their hearths the palms of Hayti, the mahogany of Honduras, and the precious woods of the Amazon and Orinoco." — Bayard Taylors ' Northern Travel.' Seyland may be visited from Hammerfest. The summit of the mountain is 8408 ft., and commands very extensive and grand views. The most northern glacier in Norway is upon it. While at Hammerfest, the tourist should not omit to ascend the Diehs- herg, a mountain which rises almost immediately behind the town. The summit is marked by a stone cairn. The view thence is extensive and very fine. It is an easy walk of 2 hrs. to the top. Those not proceed- ing to the North Cape would do well to watch thence the midnight sun. The Kussian Government takes great pains to foster its trade with the northern provinces of Norway, which are mainly supplied with corn from that country. Mr. Laing, in his book on Norway, c. vi. (which deserves attentive perusal), fully and ably exposes the supposed views and objects of Kussia as regards the N. of Norway. The Aurora Borealis. — Mr. Eve- rest, in his book on Norway, p. 129, thus describes it as seen by bright moonlight in this neighbourhood in the middle of September : — " Across the sky, to the N., stretched a white arch of light with a span as broad as a rainbow, and rather flatter. A large streak, shaped like a comet, lay within the arch, and this was continually changing both its figure and position. Sun, moon, or stars never yet gave so lovely, so hallowed a light." But it is much finer in the middle of November, when it assumes a great variety of forms ; at times appearing like a rain of fire — a great fan displaying all the colours of the rainbow — or a hurried in- distinct motion of shapes of light which might be compared to a mysterious dance of spirits. Hammerfest to the North Cape, Dist. 13 Norsk m., or 91 Eng. The Steamer usually remains at Hammerfest 2 days prior to her return S. This sometimes gives sufficient time to visit the North Cape and re- turn, so as to catch the boat before her return S. The best chance of doing this is to take the lightest boat and 4 men. It is not a good plan (except for economy) for a party to join in taking the same boat. Where there are 2 or more boats, a little emula- tion is created between the crews, and there is a better chance of a quick passage, as the Norsemen are not given to hurry themselves. It is better, however, to go by the Hammerfest and Vadso steamer as far as Gjsesvser, where tolerable ac- commodation may be obtained, and, landing there, proceed by boat to the North Cape. This boat leaves Ham- merfest every other Thursday. After visiting it, you can either wait for the same steamer on her return, or hire boats at each station, and return to Hammerfest, a distance of 11 m. from Kjelvik, 5 J from Havo- sund. Comfortable accommodation can be obtained at Gjsesvser by those wishing to wait the return of the steamer from Vadso. Ladies should not attempt the journey by boats to the North Cape, as they are not only liable to be ex- Norway. RotJTE 24. — hammerfest — north cape. 145 posed to considerable hardships but may be unable to quit the boat for 20 or 24 hrs. It is intended that the Steamers shall continue the voyage round to Vadso, and perform that portion also of the postal service. This will be a great convenience to tourists wishing to visit the North Cape, as the whole voyage will then be made in the same boat. A stock of provisions, with some brandy for the men, a cask of water, and plenty of wraps to keep out rain and sen, are essential. A glass or two of brandy to the men upon occasions facilitates the passage : a bargain should be made with them before starting, particularly if they are hired for the whole distance. The scenery beyond Hammerfest does not repay the expense and fatigue of the voyage. The grand mountains dwindle into insignificance, and all becomes dreary, barren, and of a uniform dull brown. The stations are — * Havosund, 5|. From hence the most direct way to the Cape (should the wind serve) is to make for the bottom of the Tue Fjord, upon the island of Mageroe. Thence walk over to the Riis Fjord, and there take boat again, and cross the West Fjord, landing at Hornvigen, a small bight on the North Cape itself. The regular station route from Havosund is to Kjelvik, 4^, pay for 5§. This station is upon the island of Mageroe, and a guide can be obtained for those who like to walk to the Cape, about 20 Eng. m. dist. ; or a boat can be taken round the island to Hornvigen, from whence The North Cape may be ascended. The way up is steep — the highest point 935- feet above the sea. There is no par- ticular wildness of scenery — around upon the island is nothing but a bare moor, and the sea is not more [^Norway.'j stormy or violent than upon other parts of the coast. No trees grow upon this island of Mageroe, but the sea throws ashore an abundance of drift-wood, which supplies the in- habitants with fuel. The sea is rarely frozen over in winter : though at Christiania, 300 m. further south, the Fjord is regularly closed by ice. For food their chief dependence is upon fish and wild fowl, which abound. The Gyr Falcon (so much prized for folconry) and plenty of eagles may be seen here. There are few finer accounts of the North Cape, and of the Mid- night Sun, than Mr. Carlyle*s. He describes "Teufelsdrockh" emerging (we know not whence) in the soli- tude of the North Cape, on that June midnight, standing there, on the world promontory, looking over the infinite Brine. •' Silence, as of death," writes he ; "for midnight, even in the Arctic latitude, has its character; nothing but the granite cliffs, ruddy- tinged, the peaceable gurgle of that slow- heaving Polar Ocean, over which in the utmost North the great sun hangs low, and lazy, as if he too were slumbering. Yet is his cloud-couch wrought of crimson and cloth of gold : yet does his light stream over the mirror of waters, like a tremulous fire-pillar, shooting downwards to the abyss, and hide itself under my feet. In such moments solitude also is invaluable ; for who would speak, or be looked upon, when behind him lies all Europe and Africa fast asleep, except the watchmen; and before him the silent Immensity, and palace of the Eternal, whereof our sun is but a porch lamp?" — Sartor Resarius, p. 109. The following is the description of the North Cape, also at midnight, by Mr. Bayard Taylor: — *'It was now 11 o'clock, and Svserholt glowed in fiery bronze lustre, as we rounded it. The eddies of returning birds gleaming golden in the nocturnal 146 BOUTE 25. — OHRiSTiANiA TO EAST FiNMAJEiK. Norway, Kun, like drifts of beech-leaves in the October air. Far to the N. the sun lay in a bed of saifron light, over the clear horizon of the Arctic Ocean. A few bars of dazzling orange cloud floated above him, and still higher in the sky, where the saffron melted through delicate rose- colour into blue, hung like wreaths of vapour, touched with pearly opa- line flushes of pink and golden gray. The sea was a web of pale slate- colour, shot through with threads of orange and saffron, from the dance of a myriad shifting and twinkling ripples. The air was filled with the soft, mysterious glow, and even the very azure of the southern sky seemed to shine through a net of golden gauze. The headlands of this deeply indented coast — the capes of the Laxe and Porsanger Fjords, and of Mageroe, lay around us, in different degrees of distance, but all with foreheads touched with super- natural glory. Far to the N.E. was Nordkyn, the most northern point of the mainland of Europe, gleaming rosily and faint in the full beams of the sun, and just as our watches de- noted midnight, the N. appeared to the westward — a long line of purple bluff presenting a vertical front of 900 ft. in height to the Polar Ocean. Midway between these two magnifi- cent headlands stood the midnight sun, shining on us with subdued fires, and with the gorgeous colouring of an hour for which we have no name, since it is neither sunrise nor sunset, but the blended loveliness of both — but shining at the same moment, in the heat and splendour of noonday, on the Pacific Isles." — Northern Travel. Those who expect to find nothing better than Lapps and their huts in this wild district of Finmarken will be surprised to hear that a party of English and American gentlemen, who missed the steamer from Ham- merfest, and were detained till she made her next voyage, passed their time most agreeably amongst the kind and hospitable families. At a dinner party at one of the houses, they sat down 24 in number, which was followed by a ball, kept up till 4 in the morning. From Hammerfest another steamer leaves for Vadso soon after the arrival of the steamer from the S., touching at Havosund, Kjelvik for the North Cape, Kepvaag, Vardo- huus, and other places, arriving at Vadso on the third day from Ham- merfest. She returns in time to catch the steamer going southwards of the succeeding week. Vardohuus is a little fort, built by King Chris- tian IV. of Denmark, more than 200 years ago, as a protection for her fisheries, and to guard against Rus- sian encroachments in the Varanger Fjord. Vadso is a wretched little place of about 800 inhabitants, with a summer of 6 weeks and a winter of 10 months. Potatoes can sometimes be grown there. From Vadso, fishermen wishing to try the Neiden, or the Pasvig, must cross the Va- ranger Fjord to its southern shore in boats. E. of Pasvig,^ in about longitude 48° 30' E. (from' Peroe), is the Russian frontier, and near here the sea in winter is frozen : and the Gulf Stream, which has brought warmth from the tropics to soften the rigour of the Norwegian climate throughout the whole length of the country, at length loses its force, and its track is lost in the Polar Ocean. ROUTE 25. CHRISTIANIA BY STEAMBOAT BOUND THE COAST TO TBONDHJEM, HAM- MEBFEST, AND VADSO IN EAST FIN- MAKK. The whole of this route, compris- ing near 2000 miles of coast, can Norway, route 25. — round the coast by steamer. 147 now be performed by means of com- fortable steamboats, visiting almost every town in the country. Printed lists of the times of de- parture and arrival of the Steamers at all their places of call upon this route may be obtained at the steam- boat office on the quay at Christiania, on board the steamers, and at the hotels. Particular care should be taken to ascertain at the steamboat office whether any and what altera- tions will be made which may dis- arrange plans formed for meeting the steamers at any particular times and places. The whole voyage from Chris- tiania, along the coast up to the North Cape, may now be accom- plished in 14 days. The steamers call at all the towns and settle- ments upon the coast; and at the towns usually stay long enough to see all the objects of interest they contain. These steamers belong to Govern- ment, have strong crews, and are commanded by officers in the Royal Norwegian Navy, gentlemen who would do honour to any service. The captain and first officer on board all the Norwegian steamers speak English. The fares reasonable. A place in the Chief Cabin from Christiania to Hammerfest costs but 35 sps., or 7Z. 17s. 6d., and in the Fore Cabin 22 sps., or 4Z. 19s. Food and wines are paid for extra, and may be cal- culated at about 2 dollars per diem. This includes 4 meals and a pint of good French wine. The beds are clean and comfortable. Fees ex- pected by the stewards and steward- esses, small, and at discretion: and it is usual to give something to the crew. The scenery upon the land-routes across the mountains between Chris- tiania and Bergen, and Christiania and Trondhjem, is so wondrously fine that the voyage all round the coast by this route is not recom- mended, except to those persons who from ill-health or disinclination may wish to avoid the fatigue and little discomforts in the way of roughing it which must be put up with in crossing the country. The great advantage of these steamers to the tourist is that they enable him rapidly to move from place to place upon the "W. coast, landing where he pleases for fishing, shooting, or exploring the most in- teresting scenery ; for description of which see Rte. 24. The living on board is not cheap. The * Nor ' leaves Christiania for Bergen every other Thursday at 7 a.m., reaching Bergen on the following Thursday afternoon. If time is an object, this boat is the best to choose, as the steamers for Trondhjem leave Bergen on Fridays. {See heloiv.) For ladies and invalids this coast route offers the greatest advantages, as it enables them to visit some of the grandest scenery in Norway, without the fatigue of travelling much by land, or being but rarely, if at all, exposed to sea-sickness, as the steamers, after leaving the town of Stavanger, run almost the whole way between a belt of rocks and islands and the main land. This belt acts as a vast breakwater, within which the sea is quite smooth, let it be ever so rough outside. All the advantages of a sea-voyage are therefore obtained with few of its discomforts. The society on board is of the upper classes of the Norwegians, and their kindly feeling towards each other, as well as to foreigners (and especially English and Americans), is very great, and adds much to the pleasure of the voyage. In coming S., passengers, instead of going up to Christiania, can meet the steamer for Kiel at the mouth of the Christiania Fjord. (See Rte. 20.) The sunset effects upon the W. coast are sublime. The scenery of H 2 148 KOUTE 25. — CHRiSTiANiA TO EAST finmark. Nofway, the wildest descriptiou, and at times most grand and picturesque, but this is the exception and not the rule, till W. of Christiansand. The is- lands and hills upon this iron-bound coast are in some parts quite barren, in others covered with firs and lovely little patches of verdure in the valley. But they are usually too low and rounded in the S. to be picturesque. In the N. they are much grander in height and outline. Some of the best scenery in Nor- way lies in the upper parts of the Hardanger Fjord, the Sogne Fjord, and the Stor Fjord, which may be conveniently explored from the towns of Stavanger, Bergen, Aalesund, and Molde. Upon some of the large islands upon the W. coast there are red deer, and occasionally bears are met with. For particulars as to the fishing and shooting to be had upon the Ijords and near the coast, see Kte. 24. N. of Trondhjem, between the Namsen and Hammerfest, excellent 'ptarmi- gan-shooting is to be had near all the places at which the steamers call. Two days N. of Trondhjem the Arctic Circle is crossed, and, about midsummer, the long and solemn twilight of the S. of Scandinavia is replaced by perpetual daylight during all the 24 hrs. One day N. of Trondhjem is the Namsen, and a little to S. of Ham- merfest the Alten. These two are considered the finest salmon streams in Norway. If it be intended to explore any of the scenery of the fjords or inland then the preliminary information in Kte. 24, as to requisites for the jour- ney, shoidd be attended to before leaving Christiania. That route also describes most of the towns upon the coast. The steamers *Moss' and *Fol- din ' leave Christiania every Sunday and Thursday morning at 7 o'clock, for Christiansand and intermediate stations, and continue through the summer every consecutive Thurs- day. Since the weekly steam communi- cation has been established with Hull, this, in a commercial point of view, is of great importance, as it enables the man of business to com- mand his time, and to reach any par- ticular locality he may desire, without the necessity of performing a long and tedious land journey. Any one, however, desirous of reaching Alten or Hammerfest within th6 shortest period will neither select the coast journey by land nor voyage by steamer, but proceed across the Dovre Fjeld, through Gudbrands- dalen to Trondhjem, or through Osterdalen (see Ktes. 26 and 81). Where time, however, is not so great an object, the coast voyage is very interesting. There is smooth water nearly the whole of the way ; the steamer winding her way through the intricate channels formed by the myriads of islands that shelter the coast. The greatest attractions upon this route for fishing and shooting may be said to commence about Christiansand; the grandest scenery, however, is met with between Bergen and Christiansand, and in the Loffo- dens. At Hornelu (see Forbes, p. 61) is the most stupendous sea-cliff in Europe. Its height is said to be 2800 Norwegian ft. (exceeding the height of Skiddaw, above Derwent- water), and the whole of this is bare rock, where not perpendicular, over- hanging. The steamer leaving Christiania on Thursday, at 7, arrives at Drobak, at 8| a.m. Moss, at 10 A.M. Horten, at lOJ. This town, a few years back, was nothing more than an inconsiderable village ; it has now assumed the character of a town, and has become of importance as the chief naval station and marine establishment; a very respectable dockyard has been built, as well Norway, ete. 25. — laurvig — arendal — christians and. 149 as arsenals and depots for naval stores. Vallo, Hi A.M. Here the Copen- liagen steamer is met, and the post for the westward taken on board. Laurvig, 2 p.m. Frederiksvsern, 3 p.m. In Laurvig there are two respect- able hotels. The town is charmingly situated at the head of a small j^ord facing the S.E., and is built in the form of a crescent. The oh. is a pic- turesque building, and the view of it and the town from the sea is very pretty. The River Lauven falls into the Ijord, near to the town on tlie S.E., and is the best salmon stream in the S. of Norway. The fish are large and abundant, and can get a long way up the river. There is a direct route to Kongsherg from this place, 9^ m. ; the road, keeping along the valley of the Lauven nearly the whole way, presents a variety of pic- turesque scenery and charming sub- jects for the pencil (see Rte. 23). Laurvig carries on a considerable trade with Great Britain, and owns a number of vessels : the official returns show that 26,029 tons of shipping left the port, and 37,936 tons arrived in one year. The Fritzo Ironworks are situated near Laurvig ; it is one of the largest and most per- fect establishments of the kind in the country. In this neighbourhood, a watering- place, called Sandefjord, has sprung up, and is now, in consequence of the medicinal virtues of the waters, much frequented, not only by invalids from tlie capital, but the neighbouring towns and interior of the country, as well as from Sweden and Denmark. The baths are open from the 1st of June to the 31st of August. Gouty and rheumatic affections, cutaneous eruptions, scrofula, derangement of the liver, &c., as well as paralysis, have derived great relief, and in some cases cures have been effected by the internal use of the waters, to- gether with the external application of an impregnated clay, which abounds in the neighbourhood. Steamers regularly touch there during the season. The steamer leaves Langesund on Friday, at 4^ p.m. Krageroe, at 6 p.m. This small town is celebrated for the goodness of its oysters. Bisoer, 7^ p.m. Dijngo, 9 p.m. Arendal, 10 p.m. This is a small but pretty town, built on rocks pro- jecting into the channel formed by the belt of islands off this range of coast, and near the mouth of the Nid Elv. Ships lie close to the houses, as the depth of water is ample for the purpose. The quay runs in front of the principal street facing the S.E. ; it is broad and well laid out, and, viewed from the sea, the houses built upon it have an imposing ap- pearance. Close to the town, on tho banks of a small lake, there are some celebrated iron-mines. The steamer leaves here again on Mondays and Fridays at 4 a.m. Grimstad, 5 a.m. Lillesand, 6 a.m. Christiansand, 8 a.m., is 161 English m. from Christiania. Inns : Ernsts, good ; Britannia H. ; Scandi- navia H. (See Rte. 24.) Christiansand is the capital of the province or diocese of that name, and ranks as the 4th city in Norway. It is the residence of the Stift Amt- mand and the Bishop. It was founded in the year 1641, by Christian IV. ; its harbour is one of the best in Nor- way. The Cathedral is a fine build- ing of grey stone, and ranks next to those of Trondhjem and Stavanger. The situation of the town upon tho Topdals Fjord, and with the rocks rising around it on the land side to a great height, is strikingly pictu- resque. The Torrisdal Elv enters the flord close upon the E. side of the town. There is a branch of the National Bank here, and a Grammar School, where scholars are prepared 150 ROUTE 25. — CHRiSTiANiA TO EAST FiNMARK. Norway. for the University. The town is de- fended by a fortress on the small island of Oddero, at the entrance to the harbour. Christiansand contains about 10,000 Inhab., remarkable for their tall stature, the average being above 6 ft. ; it has a considerable trade, the arrivals and departures annually being about 54,345 tons and 54,548 tons respectively. Great quantities of lobsters are shipped from hence for the London market, 24 lobster smacks being regularly employed in this trade during the season. There is a fine bridge over the river leading to Oddenas Church, a building of some antiquity, situated about J of a mile from the river. In the ch.-yd. are several old tomb- stones ; and a Runic Stone, supposed to be as old as the middle of the 1 1th centy., is worthy the attention of the antiquary. A British Vice-Consul is settled here. The Viheland-fos is about 10 m. N.W. of Christiansand. After 2 or 3 m. the road gains the bank of the Torrisdal ; about 4 m. farther is a ferry over it. The Kiver Otter, rapid and encumbered with floating timber ; but a skilful boatman will take you against the stream to within 1 m. of the Fos. You may descend from it to the ferry, over 2 rapids, which ap- pear frightful, but are mastered by skilful boatmen, and the scenery is glorious, between cliffs many hundred ft. high. About 1 m. higher up the Tor- risdal Elver is a fine fall, " Hel-fos." The salmon-fishing is well spoken of, and is abundant during the season. Travellers frequently land at Christiansand, and strike into the country at once, either to the Har- danger, Tellemarken, or to Sseterdal. For distances, stations, &c., see Ete. 24. The steamers * Hakon Jarl,' * Ju- piter,' and ' Nid Elvin,' leave Chris- tiansand in turns every Monday at noon, touching at Kleven, Farsund, Flekkefjord, and Egersund ; and ar- rive at Stavanger, Tuesdays (from September 7, Wednesdays). Steamers : Christiansand to Leith, once a fortnight, in 45 hrs. Egersund is one of the numerous ports of refuge on this coast, contain- ing 7000 Inhab. ; it carries on a lively trade with our northern ports, and with its lobster trade gives regular employment to several of our lobster smacks. Stavanger (Inns: Hotel du Nord ; — Holts in Kirkegaden ; — Madame Jespersen's ; see Ete. 24), although only containing 12,000 Inhab., is an important town; it derives its importance, however, from the her- ring-fishery, the annual catch of which averages between 300,000 and 400,000 barrels. It is one of the most ancient towns in Norway, and was a bishopric prior to the founda- tion of Christiansand. The Cathe- dral, with the exception of that of Trondhjem, is considered to be the most perfect specimen of the archi- tecture of the Middle Ages in Nor- way, and is very interesting. It has undergone a complete restoration. The nave is Norm., the rest Gothic of the 13th centy., "of the Early English character." The church has a square E. end. The town is built on the N.E. side of a large promontory in Stavanger Fjord, and commands beautiful views over the fjord and the range of mountains in the distance to the E. and N.E., extending up to the Hardanger range. A small island in front of the town renders the harbour one of the most secure on the coast. There is a considerable trade be- tween the Baltic and this port, as well as with France; the tonnage that enters in and out during the season is considerable ; according to the last return, 27,690 tons entered, and 31,408 tons departed. Norway. route 25. — stavanger; steamboats. 151 Excursions from Stavanger are numerous and beautiful (see Kte. 24). The steamer leaves Stavanger again after a short stay, and touches at Kohhervig, Haugesund, MosterJiavn^ Leervig, Teroen. For those who wish to explore the Hardanger Fjord, this is the best place to leave the steamer (see Rtes. 21 and 23). From Bergen they leave every other Friday and Sunday morning ; Aalesund and Molde, the following Saturday and Monday; Christian- sund, Sunday and Tuesday^ and arrive at Trondhjem same days. The steamers *^ger,' *Prinds Gustav,* ' Lindesnses,' leave Trond- hjem in turn every Wednesday at 8 P.M., and reach Hammerfest the fol- lowing Wednesday afternoon. They reach Namsos, at the mouth of the Namsen, on TJiursday at 1 p.m. From Namsos to Hammerfest the voyage occupies about 6 days. The general features of the coast have been de- scribed in Rte. 24. It has not been thought necessary to give a list of all the petty stations at which the steamer calls. Printed lists (to be obtained also in Christiania) are hung up in all the steamers, which give full information of the days and hours at which the steamer calls at the various stations. She stops 6 hrs. at Bodo to coal, 24 at Tromso, and about 48 at Hammerfest, before commencing her return voyage. From Hammerfest another steamer, in connection with this, proceeds every other Thursday, as stated in Rte. 24, to Vadso, in East Finmark, arriving there the following Sunday, and returning to Hammerfest in time to catch the steamer going from Hammerfest in the ensuing week. The whole voyage, with the excep- tion of the short distance between Groto and the Loffoden Islands, is among the numerous islands which surround the coast, and which form one of the most extensive and splendid inland navigations in the world ; if the weather be fine, which is very likely to be the case during the sum- mer months, the admirer of Nature in her sternest form will be amply repaid for the fatigue and expense of the voyage. Those desirous of proceeding from Trondhjem to the Namsen and Alton Rivers for salmon-fishing will find full particulars in Rte. 24. For the Namsen, passengers can land at Nam- sos at the mouth of the Namsen, and from thence take a boat to Spillum^ 4^ m., upon the Namsen Fjord (see Rte. 24), and only 1^ m. by land fi:om the Hun Station upon the Nam- sen. For the Alien, passengers land at * Bosehop, 1 m. by land from Alton, j for which see Rte. 24. I Prior to the establishment of a steamer, in 1838, the only means of proceeding to the N., after leaving Aargaard, or Foldereide, N. of the Namsen River, was either by hiring a boat with 3 or 4 men for a certain distance, or by the regular post, changing boats at each of the stations en route. The names of the stations, and the distances for a boat voyage, are given in Rte. 24. This mode of travelling has its charms to the scientific traveller; and especially to the naturalist and geologist, it affords by far the most satisfactory means of investigating the objects he is in pursuit of. The three summer months affording one almost continued day, the ground is quickly traversed, and the traveller has the advantage of stopping and making detours where and how he pleases. At almost all the water-stations N. of Trondhjem, comfortable quarters will be found, and the islands and fjords contain numerous fishing-huts. Hammerfest, see Rte. 24 ; also for information as to making the voyage from thence to the North Cape. 152 ROUTE 26. — CHRisTiANiA TO TRONDHJEM. Norway, ROUTE 26. CHRISTIANIA TO TEONDHJEM, BY RAIL TO EIDSVOLD, THENCE BY STEAMER OVER THE MIOSEN LAKE TO LILLE- HAMMER, THROUGH GUDBRANDSDAL, AND OVER THE DOVRE FJELD. Dist. 495 Norsk m., or a little under 350 Eng. The time requisite for this journey is 4 or 5 clays. Those who are desirous of going by the steamer from Trondhjem, either S. or N., should ascertain the exact day of its departure at Ohristiania, so as to regulate their journey accordingly. The post goes twice a week by this road, and Forbud papers can be sent by it. See preliminary observations, and Rte. 21. It is possible for travellers to go by road from Ohristiania to Eidsvold, or Minde on the Miosen. The stations are — Ohristiania to t Grorud, J ; t Skrimstad, I, pay for 1 m. ; t Klo/ten, 1 J ; f Trygstad, } ; t Dald, 1| ; Svendses, ^ ; f Eidsvold, |. From Svendses to f Minde, l\. From Eidsvold to t Minde, IJ ; in winter time, when the ice bears on the Vor- men, only | hr. is required for this stage. These are all fast stations; but the road is so uninteresting that the rly. is always preferred. It may be as well to remark that a road turns off westwards from Grorud, and joins Rte. 27 near Sogstad ; and that at Kloften the road to Stockholm through Kongsvinger turns off to the E. (Rte. 35). flAiL. — Two passenger trains run daily from Ohristiania to Eids- vold, and back, morning and after- noon each way, performing the journey in a little under 3 lirs. From June 22 to August 22, there is an additional train up and down, leaving Ohristiania at 12.30, and Eidsvold at 12.45. During this period the * Skibbadner * leaves Lillehammer in time to arrive at Eidsvold for the 12.45 to Ohristiania, and returns immediately to Lille- hammer with the passengers by the 12.30 from Ohristiania. Two steamers, not very good, and often very crowded, constantly ply on the Miosen, so that, by leaving Ohris- tiania by the morning train, tra- vellers can reach Lillehammer at the N. end of the lake the same evening, a distance of 17 Norsk m., or 115 Eng. The steamer leaves Eidsvold on the arrival of the morning train from Ohristiania, and after ascend- ing the Vormen to Minde, at the S. end of the Miosen, it proceeds on its voyage to Lillehammer, calling at various places en route. The ave- rage passage is 6 hours. Fares. — From Ohristiania to Eids- vold by rail, 1st class, 6 marks ; 2nd class, 4 marks ; 3rd class, 2 marks. From Eidsvold to Lillehammer by boat, 1st place, 6 marks 2 skillings ; 2nd place, 4 marks 4 skillings. If the traveller intends to pursue his journey beyond Lillehammer, he had better buy his carriole and all necessaries for the journey in Ohris- tiania. The preliminary remarks in Rte. 21, concerning requisites, &c. for the journey, are applicable here ; with this exception, that by select- ing his night-quarters carefully, and by sending a Forbud to order horses, and provisions to be ready, the tra- veller will always obtain eatable food. If he cannot eat the black rye-bread of the country,' he had better take a box of biscuits from Ohristiania. On the road it is expe- dient to have the wheels of the car- Norway, ROUTE 26, — MIOSEN LAKE. 153 riole greased every morning, or at least every other morning. Patent boxes, or axles, are not yet intro- duced. Railway to Eidsvold, 42 Eng. m. 12^ Lillestrom Junct. Stat. [^Branch raihcay to Kongsvinger, Charlottenberg, and Arvika, in pro- gress to Stockholm (Ktes. 32 and 35).] Eidsvold Stat. Near Eidsvold there is a mansion formerly belonging to the Anker family, celebrated for being the spot where the members who framed the Constitution of Norway in 1814 met, established and proclaimed the in- dependence of the country. The house has been purchased by public subscription in commemoration of that event. From Minde, Ete. 29, on the E. side of Miosen, diverges to Lille- hammer ; and from Korsodegaarden, on that route, the road through Osterdalen up the valley of the Glommen, Ete. 31, turns off to the E. From SvendseSf ^ m. from Eids- vold on the old Christiania road, Ete. 28, on the W. side of Miosen, to Lillehammer, turns off. The roads on both sides of the lake are infamous, and the steamer should always be taken in preference. If obliged to take either, select Ete. 28 on the W. side. The accommodation at Minde is good, and good grayling fishing may be had towards the end of August, both here and at Eidsvold. The water here is icy cold, so that bath- ing would be highly imprudent. No salmon can get up here, on account of the falls of the Glommen, of which the Miosen Lake is a feeder. There is a species of fresh- water herring in the Miosen, which is taken in large quantities. The Miosen Lake. This beautiful water extends from Minde to Lille- hammer, on the N.W., 63 Eng. m. It lias several branches, all on the E. bank; the largest of them is nearly in the centre of the lake, at its widest part, opposite the island of Helgeo, The streams and torrents flowing into it are numerous, but its principal tributary is the Logen, which enters the lake at Lilleham- mer. Minde is in the Agershuus district. On the E. bank of the Miosen, 1| m. from Minde, the Hedermarken district begins, and continues till near Lillehammer. 2 m. from Minde on the W. bank, the Christians' district or province of Thoten, begins, and continues all the way up. The town of Lilleham- mer is in this district, which extends to the N. of the Dovre Fjeld. This lake was violently agitated at the time of the great Lisbon earthquake, on 1st Nov. 1755 ; on which occasion, it is said, that its waters rose 20 ft., and then sud- denly retreated. Again in 1860, during the disastrous flood, the water rose to an enormous height. A mark in the railway hotel at Eids- vold shows the level it attained. The scenery towards the end of the lake is more pleasing than pictu- resque — the hills upon the banks are rather low, and wanting in fine out- line ; they are covered to the water's edge with woods of alder, birch, mountain-ash, &c., and in the lower slopes, and forests of pine and fir above. The farms on both sides are very numerous and valuable. To- wards the head of the lake the scenery becomes finer, the hills in- crease in height, and are more pic- turesque in form. The cuisine on board the steamers is moderately good and very reason- able. The wine excellent. Carriages and carrioles are placed upon a barge which is towed by the steamer ; there is rarely any chance of there being no room to take a carriage, for if they have more goods and carriages than one barge will carry, they quickly have a second in tow. The steamer calls at ten places for goods and passengers u 3 154: ROUTE 26. — CHEISTIANIA TO TEONDHJEM. Norway. during the voyage. The variety of passengers is amusing, and the habits of many of them most primitive. Tobacco is in great request amongst all classes of the men, and its co7ise- quences are visible in all directions on the deck. But the honest, open- hearted bearing of the people, added to their constant and sincere desire to oblige strangers, who are visiting the country, make ample amends for all their little eccentricities. About halfway up the lake the site of Stor Hammer is passed ; it was formerly a town of considerable extent, and the seat of a bishopric. The Swedes burned and plundered it in 1567. Some considerable and picturesque ruins of the Cathedral still exist, which may be seen from the lake. " They chiefly consist of a wall with four round arches. The cathedral remained nearly entire till towards the end of the 17th centy., when it went to ruin. It was for- merly very magnificent, and con- tained many paintings and orna- ments ; a large organ, and a miracu- lous crucifix, that wept blood from a reservoir in the head. There were also three other churches in Stor Hammer, of which no vestiges are left. It is now again a rising little townr—W. E.C.N. Near it is the estate of George Bidder, the engineer. Somewhat further up, on the is- land of Helgeo, are the ruins of a castle, built by Hako IV. It is in contemplation to erect extensive works of defence upon this island, and make it a grand military arsenal of the country. Opposite this island of Helgeo, on the W. bank of the lake, is the village of Hof, where the steamer calls for passengers. Hof is close to Sogstad, from whence a most curious obelisk may be visited (see Rte. 28). Halfway between Stor Hammer and Lillehammer on the E. shore, is the church of Bingsaker, said to be built on the site of one of King Olaf's victories. Inside there is a curious carved altar-piece, painted and gilt. T. * t Lillehammer. Station-house comfortable, and charges reasonable. {Inns: Ormsrud's Hotel, first-rate, good food ; Hammer's Inn, tolerably comfortable, but dear. Carrioles are sometimes to be bought here. " This town was formerly of considerable extent, and the seat of a bishopric. It had a cathedral and a monastery, both founded about 1160, by Adrian, an Englishman, at that time the Pope's legate in Norway. He after- wards became a cardinal, under the name of Nicholas Breakspear, of St. Alban's, and Pope, under the title of Hadrian IV. The place was burned by the Swedes in the 17th centy." — Laing's * Nor- way.' Lillehammer is now a small but rising town ; population above 1000. It is situated at the head of the Miosen, on high ground, overlooking the lake, having the river Logen on the W., at its confluence with the lake. The trout in the Logen are celebrated, and for some distance up the stream run to a very large size. There are several sawmills upon a small torrent, the Mesna, on the N. of the town. It will be worth while exploring this stream a short dis- tance up. There is a fine fos about 2 Eng. m. from the town, which iu the early summer is seen to best ad- vantage. The walks around here are beautiful. From a seat upon the Christiania road, a short distance on the S. of the town, there is a most extensive and lovely view over the lake and surrounding country. It should, if possible, be seen at sun- set. The banks of Lake Miosen, and of its feeding river, the Logen, for the distance of 170 Eng. m. fiom Tofte, in Gudbrandsdalen, afford a Norway, route 26. — lillehammer — gudbrandsdalen. 155 series of the finest landscapes. The grandeur of the forest-clad moun- tains which enclose the rich but somewhat monotonous valley of Gudbrandsdal is quite equal to its beauties, and the fertility of the banks. In going South from Lillehammer, this route may be varied by following Rte. 28, to Krsemmerbakken, along the W. side of the Miosen. From Krsemmerbakken, by Rte. 27, to Grinagermarken, and from there, by Rte. 21, to Christiania. Or along the W. side of the Tyri Fjord to Drammen, Kongsberg and the mag- nificent Riukan-fos (see Rte. 23). " The most striking features of the road between Lillehammer and Trondhjem are the entrance of Gud- brandsdal between Lillehammer and Moshuus, the pass of Rusten between Laurgaard and Brsendhaugen, and the descent of the Driva from Kongsvold to Drivstuen." — Forbes' * Norway.' Gudbrandsdalen. This beautiful valley commences at Lillehammer, and extends up to the foot of the Dovre Fjeld, about 168 Eng. m. The greater part of it is narrow and winding, with mountains of somewhat uniform outline on either side, cul- tivated on the lower slopes, and gene- rally covered with pine-forests in the upper parts. In no part does its scenery, though pleasing, attain to Alpine grandeur. Here and there the valley widens for a short distance, but nowhere to a greater extent than 6 or 7 Eng. miles. On leaving Lillehammer, our road continues N., and shortly commands an extensive view over the town and lake. A torrent from the E. is crossed soon afterwards, and the road joins the margin of the river Logon, on the 1. bank. A suc- cession of rapids and cascades are passed, as the road continues to ascend the valley. The colour of the water is of a milky blue, like snow- water, but it abounds in fish. f Aronsveen i Oier, 1|. About 3 Eng. m. S. of Moshuus. A diligence runs daily between Lillehammer and Elstad, leaving the former at 6 a.m., and the latter at 1 p.m. Not very first-rate quarters. The shooting as well as fishing about here well spoken of. Near this place the river makes a grand fall, called the Hun- nefos, beyond which tfte lake trout cannot get up the river. They come up, like salmon, to spawn, and some of these monsters have been taken here, weighing up to 36 lbs. Above this fall the fish are smaller, but most abundant in the Logon, and all its tributary lakes and streams ; not only trout, but various other kinds. Farms thickly studded on both sides of the valley. A steep hill occurs on this stage, passing through a pine- forest ; exquisite views of the river beneath and valley beyond. t Holmsn i Throiten, If. Station- house some distance off the road, on the rt., very good ; fine view from it. 15th Aug. a large horse fair is held here, which lasts for 3 days. It is well attended. Some of the finest horses in Norway may be seen at it, many of them as much as 16 hands high, and beautifully shaped animals ; but for service they are not to be compared with the smaller and more genuine Norwegian breed. A little beyond Holmen the Moxa Elv dashes across our road, while on the 1. a by-road crosses the river by a picturesque log-bridge, and leads to a most wild and mountainous country on the N.W. full of small lakes and torrents. The river forms a narrow lake nearly all this stage. There is no longer any steamer plying on the Losna Vand. t Bahhegordet i Fodvang, 1|. The Trom^ Elv is crossed upon this stage, up the valley of which stream a horse-track turns off to the E. and joins Rte. 31, near the Messelt I station upon the Glommen. 156 ROUTE 26. CHRISTIANIA TO TEONDHJEM. Norway » Near here the road crosses the Troms Eh, the bed of which is some 200 ft. below. To the right is seen a picturesque fissure in the moun- tain. It is called the "Devil's Rock,'* as the torrent is subterranean for some distance from the spot where it issues from the mountain. t Shjseggestad i Bingeho, 1. The station is excellent, and the Inn beau- tifully situated. It is built on the point of a hill, which projects into the valley, and commands extensive and lovely views. Excellent road all the way from Lillehammer to this place. The snipe-shooting in the valley below is said to be excel- lent. By the roadside opposite the turn to the station is the picturesque and antique church of Ringebo. Two torrents from the E., the Vaalen Elv and Erye Elv, dash- ing through picturesque rocky gorges, are crossed about midway on this stage. Near the latter a horse- track turns off on the right to the valley of the Glommen (Rte. 32). * t Listad i Sondre Fron, IJ. Shooting about here is said to be tine. A capital station. On this stage the valley widens, and is more highly cultivated, but the upper parts of the mountains still clothed with continuous pine- forest. The stream again becomes very rapid, and forms two fine and picturesque cataracts. The land near the river exceedingly rich. t Oien i Nordre Fron, |. Very com- fortable quarters, one of the best stations on this road ; white bread and good wines. A torrent, the Seid Elv, is crossed near the sta- tion, and the road keeps close to the Logon. Irrigation prevails here ex- tensively, and continues for several stages — the water being led down the mountains in wooden troughs to the different farms. * t StorMevestad i Qvams, \\. Com- fortable quarters and reasonable charges ; game said to be plentiful about here. Better quarters may be had at Yiig, the old station, about 1 Eng. m. S. of this. Situation of the station beautiful, on the bank of the stream, and surrounded by mountains. Some of the timbers in this house are shown which formed part of the old house in which St. Olaf was born, and which stood near this spot. On leaving Storklevestad, the val- ley takes a westerly direction, and winds a good deal, the stream dash- ing along at a racing pace. Not far from Viig, the eh. of Qvam is passed on the rt. Here Colonel Sinclair was buried. The scene of his slaughter and that of his devoted band is passed on the next stage. The Veglie Elv is crossed soon after- wards, and about here the road is 863 ft. above the sea, according to Forsell's map. About midway upon this .stage, the valley again turns almost due N. At this bend of tlie valley the Hedals Elv, from the W., joins the Logen. A horse-track leads up the valley of the Hedals Elv to the mountains on the W. A road turns off from Viig to Espedals Ironworks, distant 4^ m. [From Breden, Moen, and Rom- mundgaard, ,. the three succeeding stations,, there are roads leading- through Vaage to Lomb parish. a. From t Breden to Slette, IJ; Havilstad i JEedal, f ; Nordre Snerle i Vaage, 1| (pay for If, and for 1^ re- turning) ; -fSvee, I ; Gardmo i Lomh 2 ; t Andvord, 11; f Bodsheim, or Loos, 1^. Rodsheim, a very good mountain Inn, excellent quarters for expeditions. Landlord — a trusty guide. Hence, pedestrians, or even a horse, can go over the Sogne Fjeld to Optun, 5|m., in Nordre Bergenhuus Amt ; and from Optun there is a track to the head of the Lyster, or of the Aardals Fjord, the two westernmost arms of the Sogne Fjord. From the head of Lyster Fjord, boats to Leirdalsoren can be taken on Rte. 21, which see. This route will take pedestrians through Norway, ROUTE 26. GUDBRANDSDALEN. 157 some of the wildest parts of Norway : considerable hardship will have to be endured, h. from ^Breden or from "fMoen to ^Nedre Aasoren, 1 ; Snerle, 1|, &c. (see above). From Romtnund- gaard to fSvee, 2 m., (see above). From Rodsheim, Galdhopiggen, the highest mountain in Norway, may be ascended: a very interesting excursion. It is 8300 Norsk ft. above the sea. A pedestrian may force his way hence over snow- covered fjelds, ascending Glittertind on his way, 7800 ft., to Gjendin Vand, thence to Bygdin Vand, a large mountain-lake, 3500 feet above the sea. If not fortunate enough to fall in with a hut, the traveller will have to camp out. There is a hut at the W. end of Bygdin Vand. From thence along the Tyen Vand to Nystuen on the Fille Fjeld (Rte. 21). The traveller may sleep 1st night at the Visadal Sseter, 2nd at the Saeter at the head of Gjendin Lakes, and the 3rd at Tieu Vand. This path should not be attempted without a guide, and it may be no easy matter to get one. It was fol- lowed in 1852 by Mr. M., however, without one, but there is considerable risk in the undertaking. The scenery at the head of Visadal is well worth exploring from Rodsheim, if you do not cross the pass to Nystuen. From Optun, Skagstoltind, 7877 ft., a peak of the Horungerne mountains, may be ascended. For further information, see Rte. 38.] * t Breden and Bredevangen i Seh, 1|. Breden is the winter, Brede- vangen the summer station. Near Ix^re the river forms a small lake, close to the head of which the Otta Elv joins the Logen on the W. A little farther up, a torrent from the E., the Ulen Elv^ forms a picturesque fall, and turns several sawmills. Soon after leaving Solheim, the road passes a very steep hill, called Kringelen: the scene of the mas- sacre of Colonel Sinclair and his Scotch followers. At this spot a small post with an inscription marks the spot where Colonel Sinclair fell. In 1612, during the war between Christian IV. of Denmark and Gus- tavus Adolphus of Sweden, a body of Scotch troops had been raised for the service of Sweden. The Danes were at that time in possession of Gottenburg ; and from Calmar, in the Baltic, to the North Cape, the whole coast was occupied by the subjects of Christian IV. The Scotch, therefore, decided on the bold plan of landing in Norway, and fighting their way across it to Sweden, A portion landed at Trondhjem, and the rest, 900 strong, commanded by Col. George Sinclair, landed in Romsda- len, Aug., 1612 (see Rte. 30), from whence they marched towards this valley, ravaging the country on their way. At Kringelen an ambush was prepared by about 300 peasants ; huge quantities of rocks, stones, and trees were collected on the mountain, and so placed that all could at once be launched upon the road beneath. Everything was done to lull the Scotch into security, and with per- fect success. When they arrived beneath the awful avalanche pre- pared for them, all was sent adrift from above, and the majority of the Scotch were crushed to death, or swept into the river and drowned ; the peasants then rushed down upon the wounded and stragglers and despatched them. Of the whole force only two of the Scotch are said to have survived. But accounts differ on this point, one being that 60 prisoners were taken and after- wards slaughtered in cold blood. Sinclair's lady is said to have ac- companied him, and it is added that a youth who meant to join the pea- sants in the attack was prevented by a young lady, to whom he was to be married the next day. She, on hearing that one of her own sex was with the Scotch, sent her lover to 158 ROUTE 26. — CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. NoTWay, her protection ; Mrs. Sinclair, mis- taking his object, shot him dead. — Leung's 'Norway.' The rest of the Scotch, with some Dutch, were completely successful in their object. They were com- manded by Colonel Monnichofen, landed N. of Trondhjem, marched upon Stockholm, which they aided in relieving from the Danish forces most opportunely, and enabled the Swedish monarch soon afterwards to conclude advantageous terms of peace. — Geyer's * Histoire de Suede.* In a house near this place of slaughter it is said that some arms and other trophies taken by the peasants from the Scotch are pre- served. The road now follows the stream, and from the foot of this celebrated hill there is a most picturesque view of it, and the valley and river on the rt. Before arriving at the next station, the stream is crossed by a bridge to the rt. bank. t Moen i Sels, f . Poor stat. t Laurgaard i Sels, |. A very ex- cellent station. Shooting around here said to be fine. Reindeer are often to be met with in the Bundane Moun- tains, about 3 m. N.E. of this. Also white foxes and wolves. The most W. of this group is 6000 ft. above the sea. On the opposite side, a little higher up, the Sseter Aae joins the river. [From Laurgaard, the old station, a by-road branches off to the W. by the Vaage Vand, from whence horse- tracks lead across the mountains of the Sogne Fjeld, Rte. 38, and by the Justedal Glaciers to the Sogne Fjord (see Rte. 21). The distance from Laurgaard to Sandboe is 2 m. Also to the high-road on the W. coast between Bergen and Molde, Rte. 24. Ponies and guides may be obtained at the different stations. The bridge at Laurgaard is 1000 Eng. ft. above the sea, and the highest point passed on the next stage is about 1800, descending again, however, considerably to the church at Dovre, which is'not more than 1500.] Continuing our route, the road is very hilly on this stage, and traverses the magnificent Pass of Bustun, the mountains drawing together, and the river forcing its way between pre- cipices of gneiss ; the scenery grand in the extreme, and increasing in wildness. During this and the next stage the mountains on the W. are those of the Haalangen Fjeld. In one part the road is carried over the shoulder of a mountain called Busten, at a great height above the level of the river, which foams through the narrow rocky gorge. * t Brsendhaugen i Dovre, 1. A nice clean station. Reindeer veni- son is sometimes to be had here. The trout-fishing and shooting about here highly spoken of. The road still continues on the left bank. Numbers of small farms up the sides of the mountains on this stage ; the soil light ; and vast forests of pine. River close on the left all the rest of the way. The village of Dovre and its pretty church are passed on the left, shortly previous to reaching the next station. The Gudbrandsdal is considered as commencing from this village of Dovre, and the fjeld pro- perly begins at * t Toftemoen i Dovre, 1 (comfort- able stat.). Road still continues close alongside the river all the way, and gradually ascending. The valley contracts, and the soil becomes more sandy. It is said that the station- master here can tr^ce his pedigree up to Harald Haarfager. T. * t Domhaas i Lesje, 1. Capital quarters. Station at some distance off the road on the left. A treeless upland, 2000 ft. above sea-level. Here Route 30 turns off, 1., leading through the magnificent valley of Romsdal to the town of Molde, on the N.W. Our route now quits this valley of the Logon, and, turning (rt.) N.E., the ascent of the Norway, BOUTE 26. — DOVRE FJELD — JERKIN. 159 Bovre Fjeld is commeuced, which soon becomes very steep. Splendid views are ob- tained over the Lesje Vand, on the road to Molde. The road passes through a picturesque forest of old Scotch firs before arriving at the next station; and a small lake, the Fogs Aae, is crossed, which is the source of one of the large tributaries of the Glommen. The limit of Scotch fir here is about 2870 Eng. feet above the sea : birch ceases about 400 feet higher. * t Fokstuen on Bovre, J, pay for 1. The station is much improved ; it is 3150 feet above the level of the sea. A short distance from hence the plateau of the Dovre Fjeld is at- tained, but the road gradually ascends during all this stage. About mid- way it passes between two desolate- looking lakes, formed by the stream from the Fogs Aae, which runs through them. The lake on the left is the Volu, and from thence the stream takes the name of the Folda. The scenery wild, and vegetation scanty ; a vast undulating moorland, without large or fine rocky outlines. A few stunted birch are the only trees to be seen. * t Jerkin on Bovre, 1|. An ex- cellent station (sometimes spelled Iljerdhin), somewhat like a hospice on an Alpine pass. Everything clean and good, excellent country cuisine, and great attention paid to the comfort of the guests. Charges very reasonable. There are five good and well-furnished rooms. English sportsmen stay here 2 or 3 months at a time for the sake of the shooting. The station-master is a large farmer — ^breeds horses exten- sively, and is quite a genius. The rooms are decorated with his paint- ings, and his carvings in wood are admirable. Specimens may be purchased, such as spoons, handles for knives, &c., carved in reindeer horn. There also may be seen all the economy of a mountain farm. The dairy at Jerkin is well worth a visit. Potatoes grow near the house. In fact, whether for grand scenery, sporting, or comfort, this is one of the most tempting- places in all Norway at which to linger, at least for a few days. The postman acts as carrier for anything which may be wanted from Christia- nia or Trondhjem. Ladies will, per- haps, be favoured with a sight of the family wardrobe, and amused at the number and variety of the dresses hung round the room, furs for win- ter, &c. The establishment of Jerkin as a station dates from the early part of the 12th century, together with Fog- stuen and Tofte on the S.W., and Kongsvold on the N. They are called Fjeldstuen (mountain lodg- ings), and, as such, are rent and tax free. This station is seldom without reindeer venison, which is supplied by a man who lives in the immediate vicinity of the mountain of Snee- hsetten. He is said to be a crack shot, and acts as guide and keeper for any sportsman stopping here. He has dogs, but they are useless except for deer or hares. Ptarmigan are plentiful, and a good brace of setters would be invaluable for them. " A capital trout stream crosses the road about halfway between Jerkin arid Fokstuen. Below Aufin's Bridge is the best place; trout small, but numerous." — A. G. The Dovre Fjeld mountains afford the finest botanical field in Norway, and Jerkin, Fogstuen, and Kongsvold are the best stations for variety of rare plants. From Jerkin a station-road runs E. for some distance down the valley of the Folda Elv (Foldalen), and joins Kte. 31 in the valley of the Glommen, at Neby. The deer- stalking at Foldalen, in the autumn, is well spoken of, and elk, though 160 ROUTE 26. — CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. Norway. very scarce, are at times met with there. l^Excursion to Sneehsetten. — Jerkin is an excellent place from whence to visit this celebrated mountain; horses and guides can be obtained here. A day's provisions, including some brandy, are requisite. The view from the summit of the mountain, at sunrise and sunset, is sublime.] Sneehsetten is on the N.W. of Jerkin ; the ascent is so gradual that much of the effect of its great height, 7714 English feet, is lost. Its peaked summit is only about 3500 feet above the base from whence it springs. It was long considered the highest mountain in Norway, but it appears that Shagstbltind in the Sogne Fjeld (see Kte. 38) is 163 feet higher;* and Galdhopiggen (see Viig, in this route) is still higher, being 8300 Norsk feet. *' Sneehsetten may be ascended in an easy day from Jerkin ; it is 3 or 4 hours' riding to the base of the mountain, and from thence about 2J hours' walking to the top, most of it over that peculiar kind of snow-ice which is, I believe, found on the highest summits of snow-moun- tains. The ascent is without difS.- culty. The view is fine ; to the N. a very wild prospect of mountains ; to the E. an immense table-land of moor. It is well to take horses, as many streams must be crossed. Sneehsetten forms the N.W. extre- mity of one of those ridges of high snow-mountains which rise out of the great table-land of moor which separates the E. and W. declivities of the Scandinavian mountains. It rises much above the snow-line, and contains true glaciers. The moun- tain itself is very picturesque : at the foot lies a little lake, backed by glaciers, and those again by black precipices, rising above them in the form of an amphitheatre. It is a remarkable instance how much more * Fo; sell's map, published at Stcckholm. the height of the snow-line depends upon the accidents of situation and atmosphere than upon latitude, that the table-land about Jerkin, which in summer is entirely free from snow, rises to a height as great or greater than those mountains near Bergen, which, in a much warmer climate, and a degree and a half farther S., contain glaciers reaching down almost to the sea-level." — G. T. N. "On the summit of Sneehsetten there is a crater, which is broken down on the N. side, and surrounded on the others by perpendicular masses of black rock, rising out of, and high above, beds of snow that enve- lope their bases. The interior sides of the crater descended in one vast sheet of snow to the bottom, where an icy lake closed the view at the depth of 1500 feet from the highest ridge. Almost at the top, and close to the snow, which had probably but a few days before covered them, were some very delicate and beautiful flowers, in their highest bloom, of the Ranunculus glacialis growing most profusely; nor were they the only inhabitants; mosses, lichens, and a variety of small herbaceous plants, were in the same neighbouroood ; and, lower down, dwarf birch, and a species of osier, form a pretty kind of thicket. The tracks of reindeer ap- peared on the very topmost snow.*' — Sir Thomas Acland : MS. Letter. Mr. Laing says :— " The most ex- traordinary feature of this mountain tract is that the surface of the Fell and of Sneehsetten to its summit is covered with, or, more properly, is composed of, rounded masses of gneiss and granite, from the size of a man's head to that of the hull of a ship. These loose rolled masses are covered with soil in some places ; in others they are bare ; just as they were left by the torrents which must have rounded them, and deposited them in this region." Norway. route 26. SNEEHiETTEN — DRIVSTUEN. 161 On quitting Jerkin, a short but very steep ascent leads to the highest point of the Dovre Fjeld road, 4594 feet above the sea. To the W. the summit of Sneehastten may be seen in clear weather. The road quickly begins to descend from this grand and desolate region ; high poles are fixed on each side of the road to mark the way during snow. Kein- deer moss abounds here. Mr. Laing passed this way in February. He says: — "A smothering snow-drift came on, and it was scarcely pos- sible to see from pole to pole. I asked the boy who drove the baggage sledge if he was sure we were upon the road. He said they always left that to the horses on this stage when the path could not be discerned; that they would not go wrong if not put out of their pace, but left to take their way themselves. The journeying on this elevated plain, enveloped in a cloud of snow as dense almost as that on which you are driving, makes a sublime im- pression on the mind. You seem travelling in the sky. What you see and touch of the earth is scarcely more substantial than the snow that is whirling round and above you. It seems all one element, and you alone in the midst of it." On quitting the plateau of the fjeld, the road enters a deep glen, down which the river JDHv (which rises to the W. of Jerkin) forms a series of cataracts and falls. The way con- tinues by the side of this river, and rapidly descends and increases in grandeur and picturesque effect all the way to Kongsvold. The variety and richness of the moss, lichens, and herbage, and warm colour of the rocks, in passing over the fjeld, form a study for the artist, unique and charming in effect. * t Kongsvold on Dovre, |, pay for I-4-. Another excellent station, 3063 feet above the sea. In the event of Jerkin being full, this is the next best place as head-(]^uarters for the fishing and shooting to be had in the region of Sneehsetten. It is also a good place from whence to ascend that mountain. The road continues close along the right bank of the Driv, nearly all the way now from Kongsvold to Else. It has been made to avoid the fearful hill of Vaarstige, which formerly existed. It is carried all the way down the valley now by the side of the Driv, being, in many places, quarried out of the face of the rock. It is a striking piece of engineering. Soon after leaving Kongsvold, the river makes two picturesque falls, and a third is passed on the right, about the middle of the stage, where a torrent from the E. joins the river. The scenery is most grand and picturesque ; the ravine narrow, with high mountains clothed with birch and fir, and rocks fine in outline, with much colour, chiefly reds and browns. Splendid subjects for the pencil all the way. * t Drivstuen i Opdal, If. A, large farm at this station, and tole- rable accommodation. Good trout- fishing in the Driv. Here the Dovre Fjeld is considered as ending ; height above the sea, 2220 feet. On leaving this station, the road continues ra- pidly to descend ; scenery splendid, and ravine narrow, till near the end of the stage, when it widens, patches of cultivation increase, and the mountains decrease in grandeur. t Else i Opdal, IJ, pay for 1^. Near this station the Vinstra Elv is crossed, the ravine gradually widens into a broad valley, and the Driv Elv becomes a fine stream. The hills ares aid to abound in black- game and hares. At the village of Opdal our road quits the river, and runs to the N.E, The elevation of the road near Opdal is 2114 feet. * t Ny-Ovne i Opdal, |. A most comfortable station, and excellent quarters for fishing and shooting; the hills about here also are said to be rich in game. The station-master carves well in wood, and specimens 162 ROUTE 26. — CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. NoTWay, of his skill may be purchased. The road continues N.E. ; scenery not so fine as hitherto ; mountains lower, with much birch and scrub. [Here a station-road on the W. branches off, and continues down the stream, through Sundalen, towards the town of Christiqnsund, in Rte. 24. The stations are — Ovne to Aalboe, 1 ; Gravovne, 1 , Sliper i Opdal, If ; t Gjora i Sundal, |. From Gjora to Sliper pay for 1|, but only for | returning ; * -fStorfale i Bom fog, 1| ; * Sundalsoren, 1| ; hence by sea to Christiansund, Ij. The Sundal is highly spoken off as a salmon stream.'] * t Nystuen i Opdal, IJ. The station is a new comfortable house, in a very pleasant situation, com- manding a fine view over the forest. Near Stuen the top of Sneehoetten is visible. In the early part of this stage the scenery is of the same character as the last ; towards the end of the stage the road descends through a thick pine forest to t Austhjerg i JRemnebo, 1. New road. Good shooting quarters. In the distance mountains piled above each other, covered with a sea of dark pine and fir. Capercailzie and black game are said to be numerous in this neighbourhood. Between Ovne and Bjerkager there is now an excellent new chaussee. Before arriving at the next station, the traveller will remark a cross carved on the solid rock. It marks the spot whence an unfortunate work- man was precipitated to a depth o 700 ft., in 1862. [On crossing the river, a station-road to the 1. leads down the valley of the Orkla, and joins the high-road between Molde and Trondhjem (Rte. 24) by the follow- ing stages, viz. : Haarstad, 1 J ; Grudt, IJ ; and f Kalstad, 1. Vide Etc. 24.] t Bjerkager i Bemneho, 1 ; good road to * t Garlid i Sognedal, IJ. This station is some distance off the road, up the side of the mountain on the 1. Fair accommodation here. Charges reasonable. An interesting and most industrious family. They carve well, and make excellent carrioles, with springs, at 18 dollars, which is ex- ceedingly cheap. The knives and other articles of steel and iron, though roughly made by the peasants, are considered much superior to those manufactured in the towns, both as to temper and durability. Near this station a road to the S.E. has been made, which leads into the valley of the Glommen, near the Nehy station, Rte. 31, on the way to Christiania. From Garlid the road keeps along very high ground all the way, through mountain pastures and park -like scenery. The Villa Eh is crossed just before the next station. t Prijesthuus i Bemneho, |. The road from Garlid is good, but a heavy stage going south; it still runs along high ground, through rich pastures for some distance, with num- bers of small farms in all directions. The scenery continues park-liko, till a rapid descent leads down the mountain, through a wild, picturesque valley, to Eugen i Storen, 1|. Eugen is close to the rly. stat. at Stoeen, and there is a good hotel there. The salmon- fishing in the Gula (or Guul) Elv, near here, and higher up about Rogstad, is excellent. Soon after leaving Soknses, the road enters the valley of the Gula, which it crosses, and quickly joins the road from Christiania, through the valley of the Glommen, Rte. 31. Keeping N. the road continues along the bank of the Gula, which winds its rapid course through a dark ravine; the moun- tains on either side and in the dis- tance clothed with pine and fir to their summits. Scenery becomes less wild towards the end of the stage. Vollan i Sorrig, |. Road con- tinues along the eastern bank of the Gula, more or less, all the way, and is level. Valley highly cultivated, and the hop extensively grown. Soon Norway. route 26. — trondhjem; post-office. 163 after leaving VoUan, the stream ex- pands into a small lake, and midway between that and Leer the Lun- desogna Elv is crossed. The Ely. from Storen to Trondhjem, 3 trains daily, in less than 2 hrs. Kvaal Rly. Stat. ; Sobern Rly. Stat. Leer i Flaa, 1|. Rly. Stat. Road follows the winding of the Gula again all this stage, mountains be- coming more rounded and decreasing in boldness towards Meelhuus, but still covered with forests along the higher points. Numbers of farms on both sides the valley. * Meelhuus, |. Rly. Stat. From hence the church forms a most pic- turesque object, looking up the val- ley. It is beautifully placed on the crown of a small hill, with the fir- clad mountains towering above each other in the background, and the valley winding away into the far distance on the right. At Meelhuus our road quits the Gula, and passes over rounded hills and broken, picturesque ground, highly cultivated in places. Lovely views on the S.E., over part of the Trondhjem Fjord. Stokke Rly. Stat. *IIeimdali Leinstrand, l.Rly. Stat. Road continues over well-cultivated and undulating high land. Towards the end of the stage the road from Christiansund, Rte. 24, joins ours on the 1. Excellent road to Trondhjem. Before reaching that city, the most lovely scenery is passed. In the foreground are the remains of some old fortifications — beneath, the city and its ample roadstead spread out like a map, and beyond the fjord, of immense extent, bounded by moun- tains in the distance. And to the 1., on the bank of the fjord, is seen a small hill called Swerroberg, where the renowned King Swerro is said to have lived in the latter end of the 12th centy. T. t Tkondhjem Stat, (or Dront- lieim), 1 . Inns ; Hotel d'Angleterre, Hotel Belle Vue ; both pretty good and comfortable. People very civil. Hotel du Nord. And there are several comfortable boarding-houses, which are less expensive than the hotels. The usual charges per diem at the hotels and boarding-houses range from 1 dollar to IJ, exclu- sive of wine, which is good and cheap, particularly French wines. The two first-named hotels are in the best part of the town, near the cathe- dral and post-of&ce, and a consider- able distance from the jetty, where passengers are landed from the steamers when there is much sea. In fine weather, the boatmen, if ordered, will pull across the roadstead and land their passengers close to the Hotels d'Angleterre and Belle Vue, but this can be done only at high water. The Post Office is on the S. side of the town, opposite the Frue Kirke, and on the way to the cathedral. Notes may generally be changed for small money at the post-ofiice. See commencement of this route as to sending Forbud papers by the post upon this road. The British Vice-Consul here is Mr. Knudtzen. His counting-house is on the E. side of the town near the river. He acts as agent for some of the London bankers, and will cash circular notes and bills drawn on letters of credit. Forget not to re- plenish the stock of small money ; it is often difficult to obtain sufficient, except from the bank, which is only open for about an hour early in the morning. Nothing can exceed the kindness and hospitality of Mr. Knudtzen and his family to British and American travellers. They all speak English perfectly, and the value of their information and advice to travellers is as great as the readiness with which it is afibrded to those who seek it. Mr. Knudtzen is the fortunate possessor of several charming works by Thor- valdsen. They have twice been saved from destruction whenlVIr. Knudtzen's 164 ROUTE 26. — trondhjem: national bank. Norway. town-house was burned. Two alti- relievi are very lovely. The sub- jects, Hector's interview with Paris and Helen; and Cupid and young Bacchus. Hallway from Trondhjem to Storen. The gauge is 3 ft. 6 in., the nar- rowest of public railways yet con- structed. The speed cleared is about 10 miles an hour. It is desirable this rly. should be carried through the isthmus of the Trondhjem penin- sula to the open harbour. At Trondhjem the travellers' car- riage and harness should be carefully inspected and damages repaired. Trust not to otliers ; it requires per- sonal attention, and Norsk workmen are slow and procrastinating. The Shops are few and poorly stocked. Photographs and prints of Norwegian costumes may be purchased at reason- able prices ; also trinkets of native manufacture; furs and eider-down are very cheap, particularly ermine. The two latter are amongst the best presents which are to be purchased here for friends at home. Mr. Lund- green's, however, is an excellent shop, where all kinds of groceries, provi- sions, portable soup, preserved meats, wine and brandy, &c., may be bought. Mr. Hartman's also is a good iron- monger's shop, where shot and Prus- sian powder are to be had. Kifle-shooting is a favourite amuse- ment amongst the gentlemen here. E. Hoaas, near the Frue Kirke, can repair rifles, but he keeps none ready- made. Capes, hat-covers, &c., of goat-skin, are made in Trondhjem, and are ex- cellent, as well as very durable ; but the smell from them is disagreeable when damp. The city of Trondhjem was founded A.D. 997, by King Olaf Trygvason, upon the site of the old Scandinavian city Nidaros. The adventures of this king are the most romantic of all the sovereigns of Norway. Born a prince, his mother only saved his life from the usurper of his rights by quitting the country ; they were taken by pirates, separated, and sold as slaves ; at an early age he was discovered and redeemed by a rela- tive, became a distinguished sea- king, or leader of piratical expedi- tions, married an Irish princess, em- braced Christianity, and ultimately fought his way to the throne of Nor- way in 991. He then became a most zealous missionary, propagating the faith by his sword ; death or Christianity was the only alternative he allowed his subjects. In 998 he destroyed the celebrated Trondhjem Temple of Thor and Odin, with the idols of those gods which existed there, and were held in the highest veneration. This temple was a short distance from the walls of the city, and upon its site the church of Hlades was built. Trondhjem was the royal residence and seat of government, and remained the capital of Norway down to the time of its union with Denmark, when Christiania was made the ca- ■pital. Its population, by the census of 1855, was about 16,000. The city is built round a bay, on the S. side of the fjord, at the mouth of the river Nid. It has repeatedly suffered fi*om fire, most of the houses formerly being of wood. The last was in April, 1841, when 350 dwell- ings were destroyed. Since that all the houses rebuilt are, according to law, of brick or stone. The streets are regular and spacious, with large square water cisterns at their inter- sections. The architecture of the houses is of the plainest description, without any ornament, but they have a great air of cleanliness and com- fort. The National Bank. — " This bank was founded in 1816, and has its head office in Drontheim, with branches in the principal towns. It is under the direction of 5 stockholders, with a council of 15 representatives of the other proprietors. Its capital was originally raised by a forced loan or Noricay. EOUTE 26. — teondhjem: catiiedbal. 165 tax upon all landed property, and the landowners became shareholders ac- cording to their respective payments. In a short time these shares became a valuable stock, and are at a con- siderable premium. It is a bank for landed property, and discounts bills, &c., only as a secondary branch of business. Its principal business is in advancing, in its own notes, upon first securities over land, any sum not exceeding two-thirds of the value of the property, according to a general valuation of the whole country taken in 1812. The borrower pays interest at 4 per cent, half-yearly on the sum to his debit ; and yearly 5 per cent, of the principal, which is thus all repaid in 20 years. In the event of non-payment of the interest or instal- ment, the bank proceeds by a sum- mary sale of the property by public auction to realise its security." — Laing's * Norway,' p. 283. The Cathedral is the great object of interest here. " Between the years 1016 and 1030 St. Olaf built a church on the spot where now St. Clement's Church stands. He was buried a little to the south of his own church, where the high altar now is. Between 1036 and 1047 Magnus the Good raised a small wooden chapel over St. Olaf 's grave ; and soon after Harald Hardraade built a stone church, dedicated to Our Lady, to the westward of this. This group of 3 churches stood in this state in the troubled period that ensued. In 1 1 60 Archbtshop Eystein commenced the great transept west of *' Our Lady's " chapel, and probably completed it about 1183. He or his successor re- built St. Clement's Church as it now stands, probably about this time. During the next 60 or 70 years the whole of the eastern part of the cathedral was rebuilt, the tomb-house or shrine being joined on to the apse of the Lady Church. In 1248 Arch- bishop Sigurd commenced the nave and W. end, now in ruins ; it is not certain whether it was ever completed. In 1328 the church was damaged by fire ; it must have been after this accident that the internal range of columns in the circular part was re- built in the style of our earlier Ed- wards." — Fergusson's * Handbook of Architecture.' *' The architecture of the oldest parts of the cathedral at Trondhjem is Norm., in every respect similar to the best Norm, architecture in Eng- land, but richer tlian any I have seen in '^England. The architecture of these parts which are next in date is E. Eng., in every respect similar to the best E. Eng. architecture in England (with the characteristics of toothed ornament, water moulding at base, &c.). Nothing precisely similar is to be seen, so far as I know, on any other part of the Continent. The architectural relation between England and Norway must have been very close down to the year 1300. " I use the words Norman and Early English in the sense in which they were introduced by Eickman. The styles which I mention are followed in Trondhjem Cathedral by a florid style of very debased architecture." — G. B. A. The extreme length has been 346 ft., its breadth 84 ; but the W. end, which contained the grand entrance, had a chapel at each corner, making the breadth of that front 140 ft. The whole of this W. end was highly decorated, particularly the entrance, which had 3 doors, over which were 20 delicately cut niches, in which statues were placed, and, judging by the mutilated remains, they were of considerable merit. Many of the existing ornaments of this W. end will amply repay the trouble of seek- ing them. The chapel of St. Clement, attached to the N. side of the choir, was re- built in the latter part of the 12th centy. The transept, built by Arch- bishop Eystein, 1160-83, exhibits a vigorous artistic use of the billet moulding. 166 EOUTE 26. — tkondhjem: the aesenal. Norway, " The glory of this church is the Tomblwuse, at the E. end, externally resemhling our E. Eng. in style, and in plan and position not unlike Becket's Crown at Canterbury. Inter- nally it is a dome 30 ft. in diameter, supported by columns arranged oc- tagonally ; all the details correspond with those of the best Decorated. Owing to frequent fires and rebtiild- ings, the architects had difficulty in bringing the parts to join exactly ; in consequence many of the walls are not straight, nor parallel with one another, and the choir expands toward the E." — Fergussons * Archi- tecture.' The shrine of St. Olaf was deco- rated with the greatest magnificence, and long a favourite place of pilgrim- age, not only for the Scandinavians, but for pilgrims from all parts of Europe ; and in such veneration was he held that even at Constantinople churches were erected to his memory. The body of the saint was found in- corrupt in 1098, and also in 1541, when the Lutherans plundered the shrine of its gold and jewels to an immense amount. The ship which carried the greater part of this plun- der foundered at sea on its way to Denmark, and the rest was seized by robbers on land. The Lutherans, however, appear to have treated the body of the saint with respect. In 1.568 it was removed from the shrine and buried in the cathedral. St. Olaf was slain 31st August, 1030. Tradition and history alike re- count how often this holy pile has suffered from fire; and in various parts of the edifice finely carved stones have been built into the mas- sive walls, betokening but little re- gard to architectural beauty or uni- formity in repairing the ravages of the devouring element. The tran- sept and E. end are the only parts roofed in, and now used for divine service. Upon the left, on entering at the N. door, a large and beautiful round arch, highly decorated with the zigzag and other ornaments, was discovered in 1847^ and carefully laid open. The general effect of the interior of the cathedral is ruined by the high pews below, as well as those enclosed in the galleries. 'The choir is octa- gonalj surmounted by a dome of modern construction. The high altar is surrounded by light pillars and open arches extending to the roof. The whole of the choir is Inost elabo- rately and beautifully decorated, and will repay a careful aud minute in- spection. Over the altar is placed a fine cast of Thorvaldsen's noble statue of the Saviour. On either side of it are casts of statues of the 12 Apostles, which are very inferior as works of art, and ruinous to the general effect of the choir. Considerable sums have been ex- pended in repairing this fine cathe- dral. The Norwegians take much pride and interest in its preservation ; but it is evident that none of the authorities here possess either skill or taste for Gothic architecture, for it has been fearfully " church war- dened ; " the richest and most ela- borate tracery being carefully choked up with coats of a lead - coloured wash. Trondhjem Cathedral* is (ac- cording to an article of the Constitu- tion of 1814) to remain the place of coronation for the Norwegian sove- reigns. The Bishop of Trondhjem performs the ceremony. Here Ber- nadotte was accordingly crowned king of Norway. The Arsenal— On the S. side of the cathedral are some remains of * There are two works published on this cathedral. The best is by Gerard Schoning, in 1762, and minutely describes it as it was in the days of its glory, besides giving several engravings of the most interesting parts. The other is by Assessor Schwach. Both these works have long been out of print, but may be seen at the public library in the Museum. There are also a description by Grimkele, a notice in the Norge fremstillet i Tegninger, and a fine work by Mr. Schvimer, of Christiania, on the cathedrals of Norway. Norway. BOUTE 26. — tkondhjem: environs. 167 the Eoyal Palace, which, with the adjoining grounds, are now occupied as a military and naval arsenal. The throne of the old Norwegian kings is preserved here. The naval portion of the arsenal, with its dockyard, are beautifully kept. They are on the left bank of the river Nid ; and here are laid up in ordinary a considerable number of gun-boats, each in its own shed, with all that belongs to it, numbered and ready for instant ser- vice. The Museum is small and badly kept. It comprises a library; some of the books are said to be very rare ; the theological portion is the best; the manuscripts are prin- cipally letters of the kings of Nor- way. There are likewise collections of Northern antiquities, old armour, minerals, shells, &c., but the best is the collection of Norwegian ornitho- logy. There is a theatre here. The city contains no manufactories of importance. Its trade is chiefly confined to its exports of dried and salted fish, timber, tar, and some copper from the mines at Eoraas ; and to importing wines, groceries, and other articles of foreign produce, for supplying its own as well as the wants of the neighbouring districts. All the products of the country are ex- ceedingly moderate in price. French and other wines are also cheap and very good. Of late years Trondhjem has taken a great lead in ship-build- ing, and has become celebrated for building very fast - sailing vessels ; but they are exceedingly wet. There is a great air of comfort and well- being amongst the people, and all classes are celebrated for their good looks. The roadstead is not very safe, being unprotected to the N. and W. The River Nid, which surrounds great part of the town, will not admit ves- sels drawing above 10 or 12 feet water. This river is said to be rarely frozen; the cold here, from its proxi- mity to the sea, never being very in- tense. Near the Custom-House (according to the opinion of antiquaries) is the spot where the ancient Ore-thing, or assemblage of the people, for this part of Norway was held. Here above 20 kings of Norway have been proposed, accepted by the Thing, and proclaimed. It is sacred ground for a king. On the E. fhe city is commanded by a chain of hills, and on one of them there is an old fortress of some extent, which overlooks the town, but is utterly inefficient for its pro- tection. The Environs. — a. Opposite the city, in the centre of the Ijord, stands the small island rock of Munhholm. Canute the Great, a.d. 1028, founded a monastery of Benedictines here, the first of that order established in Norway. A low round tower is all that remains of it, and this is within the walls of the fortress. It was in a small gloomy chamber in this tower that the Staatsminister of Christian V. of Denmark, Graf von Greiffen- feld, was immured from 1680 to 1698. He was originally Peter Schumacher. This dungeon is no longer shown, but it is said that he had worn a deep channel in the pavement in walking up and down, and in- dented the stone table where he had rested his hand in passing it. This fortress has ceased to be used for State prisoners. Great ex- pense has been incurred by the Government in strengthening its defences ; but it appears extremely doubtful, in the event of a war, whether it would be sufficiently strong to withstand an attack, or whether, owing to the distance, the guns from its batteries could be of much avail in protecting the ship- ping or town. It is still the dark solitary rock which "Victor Hugo has described in his ' Hans of Iceland,' looking more like a prison-house than a fortress. Leave to visit 168 KOUTE 26. — TRONDHJEM TO J^MTELAND. Novivaif. Munkholm must be obtained of the commandant in Trondhjem. The Norwegian regalia are kept in the fortress. b. Down the fjord, about 3| m. N.W. of Trondhjem, a small river enters the fjord near the Uddue sta- tion, in the parish of Kissen. The salmon-fishing there is good. c. 3 m. S. of the city the Nid forms two beautiful falls, known as Lierfossen. The perpendicular height of the upper fall is 99 Eng. feet, and its breadth, according to Dr. Clarke, 413 feet. The lower fall is about 1000 yards distant ; its height 82 feet, and breadth 122 feet. The upper fall is the most picturesque. They resemble the Falls of the Clyde, but are finer. The salmon-fishing near the lower fall is said to be excellent. Close to the falls are several fur- naces for smelting copper, sawing- mills, &c. Leave must be obtained of the proprietor of these works for fishing in the Nid. From these falls a beautiful excur- sion may be made up the valley of the Nid to the Sselho Lake, across it from Teigen to Qvsello, and thence by land to Stordal, on the Trondhjem Fjord, and back to the city by land or water. The total distance is about 12 m. d. Excursion from Trondhjem to Sselho and Tydalen. From Trondhjem to Lehvold, 1 ; t Haugan, 1| ; Vigen, If, pay for 2|, returning for 2 ; Kvello, f ; thence either across Sselbo So to Kvello, 1|, or round the bottom of the lake to Sesaas, f, and to Kvello, 2| ; Rolssetj 1 ; TJdhuus, 1\ ; Grasslid, 1^ ; Aunet, f ; Kirkvold, f , from which place a bridle-road leads to Stuedal i Tydal, 2 m. Another route is from Trondhjem to Rmingen, 11 ; Teigen, lJ,on Sselbo So, and thence as above. e. Trondhjem to Jsemteland. Trondhjem to Levanger, 71 (vide Rte. 24); Nies, 1|; Garnses, 1. Heavy road, but beautiful scenery. Sulstuen,!^, pay for If ; f Sandvigen, If; Mdden, in Sweden, 1^. Total, 14J. Charming excursions may also be made by boat up the Trondhjem Fjord, and also down it to the sea- coast, where the wild-fowl shooting is capital. In the large island of Hitteroen, which lies upon the coast about 7 m. N.W. of Trondhjem, the deer-stalking is highly spoken of, as well as the wild-fowl and other shoot- ing. Permission must be obtained to shoot there. " Red-deer shooting is rather expensive work. In the first place leave must be obtained of the proprietor, who not only expects the quarry, but a payment of 3 dollars for every deer that may be killed, and 1 dollar for the guide ; and after all it is but tame work compared with reindeer hunting. In the north- western part of the island a fair sprinkling of black game and caper- cailzie may be found.'* — Barnard's * Sport in Norway,' p. 34. The two modes of going to Hitteroen are by water down the fjord, in boats from the water-stations, or by the steamers which regularly call there ,* or by the road, which is 10 m. By water it is much farther. Travellers going northwards, and intending to land on the coast for fishing or shooting, or for exploring the country inland, should take with them from Trondhjem such store of dried provisions, wines, &c., as they may require. A few wax candles in the latter end of August or the beginning of September will be found a great luxury. Of course, if not intending to leave the steamer, these stores will not be wanted. If going S. the road can be agree- ably varied by returning by the valley of the Glommen (Rte. 31) ; or going! by land, Rte. 24, or water, Rte. 25, j to Bergen, and from thence to Chris- tiania. Much time, expense, and fatigue are saved by taking the Norway, routes 27, 28. — christiania to trondhjem. 169 steamer to Bergen, instead of going by land, but the scenery upon Kte. 24, between Molde and the Sogne Fjord, is the most grand and pictu- resque in Norway, and all who can afford the time should go that way. It is only practicable lor carrioles. Provisions and small money should not be forgotten, whichever route may be taken. Steamer to Hamburg every Friday till December, touching at Christian- sund, Molde, and Aalesund, on Satur- days; Bergen, Wednesdays; Chris- tiansand, Fridays; and reaching Hamburg the following Sunday. A small steamer also plies from Trond- hjem to Steenkjaer, and Levanger, in the Trondhjem Fjord, all the year round, where Kte. 24 is joined. En- quire at Trondhjem. See Ktes. 24 and 25 for stats, called at on the way to the Namsen and Alton. Steamer to Hammerfest every Wed- nesday at 8 P.M. ROUTE 27. CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM OVER RTNGERIGET TO LILLEHAMMER. Distance, 51 1 Norsk m., or 360 Eng. For those who are not going to Bergen, this is by far the best route to take in going to Trondhjem, the scenery being much finer than upon either of the more direct roads. See also preliminary observations to Rte. 26. From Christiania to f Thingelstad, as in Rte. 21, distance 8| Norsk m., or about 58 Eng. By this road Sund- volden is passed, whence the beauti- [Norway.'j ful view, mentioned in Rte. 21, over Ringeriget is to be seen on ascending Krogkleven, and also the lovely scenery of Rands Fjord is visited. At Thingelstad our route separates from that to Bergen, and, after a steep and long ascent across the hills to the N.E., crosses the head of the Eina Lake, near t Teterud i vestre TJioten, 1|, pay for 2|. Soon after leaving this stat., the descent towards the Miosen Lake is commenced. From Teterud one can go to Lundhagen i Holho, IJ ; t KrxmmerhalcTcen, 1|. t Borsvolden i vestre Thoten, 1|. Good road to this place. Good road to t Krxmmerhahhen, IJ, where Rte. 28 is joined. From hence to Trondhjem as in Rte. 28; dist. 38i N. m., or 267 Eng. ROUTE 28," CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM OVER HURDALEN ON THE "WESTERN SIDli OF THE MIOSEN LAKE. Dist. 48^ Norsk m., or about 339 Eng. See preliminary observations, Rtes. 26 and 29. Since the establish- ment of the steamer on the Miosen Lake, this land route has been com- paratively little traversed during the summer months, it being more ex- pensive, and the road hilly and in- famously bad. Its chief attractions are the lovely views it commands over the Miosen, and the pastoral scenery through which it passes; together with the trout and other fishing in the Miosen and its tributaries. 170 BOUTB 28. — CHRISTIANIA TO TBONDHJEM. Norway. From Cliristiania by road to Svendses, 5|, as in Rte. 26, where the stats, are given ; but it is better to go by rail to Dahl, 4f , and post thence to Svendses, f . t Eidsaster i Hurdal, IJ, pay for H. Here the road turns off to the 1., passing Hurdal's Glass Work to t Garsjo i Hurdal, 1^, pay for If. * t Grdnnen i dsire Thoten, 1|, pay for 2, but returning for If. The first f m. to Gronnen is heavy. The Stor Elv is crossed shortly before arriving at t Haugen i ostre Thoten, 1. Here Ixte. 27 from Christiania joins our road. From here to f Smorvig, |, and to -f Fjeldhoug, 1|, at both of Avhich places the • steamers on the Miosen stop. Near here is Sogstad, formerly the stat., where there is one of the most remarkable remains of antiquity which Norway can boast of. It is an obelisk of fine sand- stone, and 4 ells in height, which stands upon Alfstad Gaard, where, according to tradition, a king named Alf dwelt. Upon 3 sides are carved Runic characters, and the figures of 4 horses, upon one of which is a rider. Over these horses there is a fox, above that again a flying eagle. Wormius read the Runic inscription thus : — Jurun raisti Stain dini eftir Evin Venis hanna etha aug Gurdu af Hrig^ariki vien Urula Eivia. Thus translated — Jurun erected this stone in memory of his friend Evind, who was married to Guri of Ringeriget. Evind's friend was tJrula. On the other side — Midi i Vita- holm aug karde sun sini Svartander i Vitaholm. Igli reisti stein dena eftir Thoral aug munti stein eftir dusi. Thus translated — Midi in Vita- holm mourns his son Svartander in Vitaholm. Egild erected this stone to Thoral, and this stone is in me-, mory of them. The Hund Elv is crossed before reaching T. t GjOvig, li {Inn^: Victoria, good). From hence a station-road leads into that between Christiania and Bergen, Rte. 21, at the head of the Rands Fjord ; dist. about 3 m. From Gjovig the road keeps close along the Miosen all the rest of the way to Lillehammer. The Stok Elv is crossed close to * t Sveen i Bifid, IJ. From hence along the valley of the Stok to the W. another road leads into Rte. 21, at Eidsvold ; dist. about If m. The Vismund Elv is crossed on the way from Sveen to ^ GnjtestueniBirid,l\. The road passes the head of the lake upon this stage, when the town of Lille- hammer is seen across the stream. The road continues up the valley of the Logen Elv for some distance. The Fare Elv, which flows from the long range of the Skjselhro Fjeld on the N.W. into the Logen, is then passed ; and that river is soon after crossed by a long bridge. Then, turning S. down the river, about | a m. distant, is T. * t LiLLEHAMMEE, 1§, or Ving- 7i£es, 1|. From hence to Trondhjem is the same as in Rte. 26, in which see also observations as to the fish- ing to be had here, and scenery in the neighbourhood, &c. From Ving- nass to t Toft, 1| ; f Veisteen, |. From t Toft one can also drive to t Aronsveen i Oier, If (Rte. 26) ; and to f Sonstevold i Gausdal, f. From t Forseth to Helleherg, 1| ; Kvisberg, 1|. From f Forseth to t Sonstevold, I ; Holmen i Oier, IJ. Norway, boute 29. — oheistiania to trondhjem. 171 EOUTE 29. CHEISTIANIA TO TEONDHJEM OVER HEDEMARKEN ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE MIOSEN LAKE. Distance, 49| Norsk m., or 350 Eng. See preliminary observations, and description of the Miosen Lake, fishing there, &c., in Kte. 26 ; also Rte. 28, as to the road on the W. side of the Miosen, which equally ap- ply to this route up to Lillehammer. Both these roads on the banks of the lake are infamously bad ; so that it is always best to take the Steamer. If compelled to follow either, the road on the western side of Miosen, Rte. 28, is better than this on the eastern bank. From Christiania by rail to Eids- voldt 6 m. (Rte. 26), thence by steamer or road to Minde, IJ, at the foot of the Miosen Lake. At Minde, the Vormen Elv is crossed by a ferry to the E. bank. The Hedemarken district is entered just previous to t Morstu i Stange, IJ, but pay for 1|. The road from Minde to Morstu is hilly and heavy. * t Korsodegaarden i Stange, IJ, pay for 1|. An excellent stat., and good night-quarters. Here a road to the rt. turns off to the valley of the Glommen, Rte. 31. Ours con- tinues parallel with the lake to t Sorholte i Stange^ J. Hence one can post to t Horsand i Romedal, 1§ ; Gillundstrand, |, where the steamer on the Miosen touches. In winter time one can sledge across Agers- vigen to T. f Hamar, 1|. Or from Sorholte to Togstad, 1^, and thence to Hamar, |, by boat. Midway on this stage to the 1. a road leads to a ferry across the Baadsenden^ an arm of the Miosen, on the other side of which there is a road leading into this route, near Smestad. The Svart Elv is crossed, and soon after a road to the S.E. turns off for the Glommen, and joins Rte. 31, at Gaustad, 1 m. Our route follows that road for a short distance. t Sjellum i Vang, 1§. This stat. is § m. from Hamar. A heavy stage to i Bjerke i Furnazs, |. The Bre- mund Elv is crossed during this stage. t Peter sheim i Bingsaker, f . The Moe Elv is crossed shortly before arriving at t Eriksrud i Bingsaker, J. t Frengstuen i Bingsaker, If. About midway on this stage a stream from the Mesne Vand is crossed, and soon afterwards the Christians' Dis- trict is entered. The road on this stage is even, and lies along the bank of the lake to T. * t Lillehammer, l-^. From hence to Trondhjem; see Rte. 26. ROUTE 30. CHRISTIANIA TO MOLDE, AALESUND,- AND CHRISTIANSUND, OVER THE MIOSEN LAKE, AND THROUGH GUD- BRANDSDALEN AND ROMSDALEN. Dist. 455 m. by land, and 11 by water, together b^l, or 390 Eng. From Christiania to Dombaas, as in Rte. 26. Dist., Christiania to Dom- baas, 31 f m., of which 9 are by water on the Miosen. The scenery from Dombaas to Molde is amongst the grandest and most picturesque of any in Norway, particularly in the lower part of Bomsdalen, and the upper part of the Romsdal Fjord. The mountains are fine in outline, and the whole route affords subjects of the best descrip- tion for the landscape-painter. The tributary streams, falling into the Rauma, are very numerous ; their falls and cascades are highly pic- turesque. In this land of waterfalls I 2 172 ROtJTB 30. — CHRISTIANIA TO MOLDE. Norway. those in Romsdalen rank among the first for number and beauty, although none of them are of any great height. The salmon-fishing in the Rauma is good ; and the shooting is also well spoken of. Reindeer and bears are found in the mountains, and red deer in the islands off the coast ; hares, winged game, and ducks are abundant. Not being the most direct way to Trondhjem, this route has been sadly neglected by tourists ; but all who can spare the time will be amply repaid in exploring its great beauties. Most of the farmers in Romsdalen are substantial men, and the traveller will find no difficulty in comfortably locating himself there, wherever he may desire. The stations, with few exceptions, are good. From Molde the grand Alpine scenery upon the Stor Fjord can be visited, and tourists can then proceed by land to Trondhjem or Bergen, or by the Steamer, which regularly calls there on its way between those cities. From Dombaas the road keeps along the bank of the Logen Elv to the Lesje Vxrhs Vand. *' This lake is 7 Eng. m. long, and 2050 ft. above the level of the sea, and is the source of two rivers, the Laagen, flowing to the S., and the Rauma, to the N. This is a most remarkable instance, and worthy of note ; for not only is it a rare thing for two large rivers to flow in contrary directions from one and the same source, but the Laagen, by falling into the Miosen at Lille- hammer, from the other end of which, at Minde, the Vormen ulti- mately flows into the Glommen, the whole southern part of the country between Frederikstad and Veb- lungsnsesis rendered insular." — Sport in Norway, p. 40. The road keeps along the N. side of the lake, which abounds in trout during the rest of this and the next stags. * t Solager i Lesje, 1 ; good stat. *t -ffo?sei/t, 1| acloanstat. [Here a horse-track to the 1. leads to the head of the Vaage Vand, and also to the Justedal Glaciers and Sogne Fjeld on the S.W. See Rtes. 21 and 38, the latter of which turns off here.] Romsdalen begins at this station, and its total length does not exceed 7J m., or about 56 Eng. * t Lesje Jernvserk, J ; good accom- modation. Here there is an old iron- mine. From hence the road passes 3 small lakes. * t Molmen, IJ. A short distance from hence a horse-track turns off on the S., and joins that from Holseth. On this stage the scenery becomes more wild and picturesque. There is a picturesque waterfall to be seen here. [The Stor Fjord. Before coming to the next station, another horse-path on the 1. runs to the Stor Fjord, on the road to Aalesund. The scenery of the snow-clad range of the Lang Fjeld mountmns upon the Stor Fjord is but little known at present. It is of the grandest description. The outline of the mountain is more picturesque than in most other parts of Norway, and full of variety. The Stor Fjord and its numerous tribu- tary streams possess equal attrac- tions for the sportsman and the angler, as well as the artist.] t Stueflaaten, IJ ; not good. Be- tween this and Ormeim there is a beautiful waterfall, the finest in Romsdal, called Sondre Stette/os ; lies about 150 yards off the road, and it should not be missed. It plunges into a cave partly worn by its waters, a depth of 40 ft. The range of the Broste Fjeld now begins on the 1., and from hence the road, admirably constructed, rapidly descends ; the scenery increasing in grandeur and picturesque outline, and the Rauma still foaming along its rocky bed, close to the road all the way. The scenery is magnificent. * t Ormeim i Gryten, |. Excellent quarters for salmon-fishing, and cheap. A tributary stream which joins the river near this, makes a picturesque triple fall, beyond which the salmon cannot pass. Norway. ROUTE 30. — ROMSDAL. 173 * t Fladmark i Gryten, 1. Small station. On this stage the river flows tranquilly. The Monge-fos, a sort of Staubbach waterfall, descends from the edge of the cliif. One of the strik- ing features of Komsdalen is derived from the mountain Storhatten, rising isolated with a " sphinx - like out- line," to use Mr. Macmillan's words. He compares this part of Komsdal to " Loch Corruisg in Sky, though it is an insignificant imitation of the tre- mendous gorge through which we pass. On one side vertical walls of rock 2000 or 3000 ft. high, with in- numerable waterfalls streaming down or leaping from them." t Morjem i Gryten, 1. Poor sta- tion. There is one clean room with two beds, but there could be no object in stopping there, for J of a mile farther on you come to Land- mark's house, which is now " Hotel Aak," a wooden house. It aifords most comfortable and charm- ing quarters, and several days may very well be passed here, as one or two fine expeditions can be made thence. The landlord has fishing which he usually lets, though I be- lieve it is not very good. He also reserves about an English mile of the river, the mile above the fjord, where any travellers staying in the house can have liberty to fish. The situation, at the entrance to Romsdal is one of the most beautiful in Nor- way. There are good opportunities also for reindeer hunting. The inn at Aah was the summer-quarters of Lady Di Beauclerc, and has been made celebrated by her pleasant volume on Norway. The scenery around is particularly grand ; the road winds between two enormous mountains, Romsdalsliorn, 4188 ft. high, on the N., a tower- shaped peak, like a shattered steeple ; and Troldtinderne (Witch Peaks) on theS. A steamer between Aalesund and Molde, and up the Romsdal Fjord, passing Vebluogsns^set, stops at Naes, which is the most convenient port for Hotel Aak and the Romsdalen. T. * t Vehlungsnseset, 1 J, a village of 40 or 50 wooden houses, with an Inn, the Port of Romsdal. A capital place for head-quarters while fish- ing, shooting, and sketching up this splendid stream and valley, which end here. Three bears were killed in one day by a farmer near this in June, 1847. The Rauma falls into the Sis Fjord, a branch of Romsdal Fjord, close to this station. Between this and Molde a Steamer runs B times a week, and corresponds with the steamers between Christiansand and Trondhjem. The Route to Aalesund turns off here. It proceeds by water down the fjord, where it joins the high-road between Aalesund and Molde. Dist. from hence (Veblungsnseset) to Aale- sund, 8^ m. The stages are : Vestnxs, by water, 2f ; •fEllingsgaard,hj land, 1 ; * Soholt, by land, 1|, a good sta- tion ; Sorte, part water, 1| ; Boseth, 1|; T. Aalesund, part water, 1|. Fov description of this town, see Rte. 24. Route to Molde continued. — From hence to Molde there are two ways — down the fjord (the scenery upon which is sublime), by boat, 3f . This is likewise the nearest way. From 7 to 10 hrs. are requisite, according to the wind and weather. The other road is partly by land, as follows : — The Isse Fjord is crossed to Torvig i Void, |. From hence by land along the E. bank of the Rodven Fjord, a small branch of the Lang Fjord, to t Alfarnses i Veo, 1\. Here the head of the fjord is crossed to Solles- nses ; or a boat can be taken direct to Molde, If. ['•Travellers to Trondhjem from Romsdal should follow the route to Molde as far as Alfarnses. Thence there is a road along the S. side of the Lang Fjord for one stage to where the road terminates, whence boat j must be taken to Tjselde. " From TJ9Blde to Hammerjold by 174 KOUTE 30. — CHBISTIANIA TO MOLDE. Norway, land 1 m., but heavy road, and, if wind be fair, it is a saving of time to take boat direct to Hammerjold. *' Hammerjold to Eidsoren, 1 m. land ; from Eidsoren to Bsekken by- water fRte. 24), or if the wind blows strongly up the fjord to Updol, thence by land to Bsekken/'— J., ilf.] Sollesnass i Ved, |. Hence by land to Dvser rises i Bolsd, 1. Here the Fanne Fjord, a branch of the Molde, is crossed, and the high-road between Molde and Christiansund (Rte. 24) is entered at Strande; or a boat can be taken direct from Dvsernses to Molde, 1. Strande, |. From hence the way is by land to Molde. [The Road to Christiansund turns off at DvsernsBs. Distance, 5g m. The stages are — across the Fanne Fjord to Lonsset, J ; thence by road to Fide, 1 ; Fursseth, f ; Gimnses, Ig ; by water to Fladsset, f ; Bolgen, by land, f . By water to Chkistiansund, J. From Gimnses one can take boat direct to Christiansund, If. For the descrip- tion of this town, see Routes 24 and 25.1 Boute to Molde continued. — Road close along the Molde Fjord all the way, commanding splendid views of the distant mountains of the Lang Fjeld. T.* Molde, f . Inns: Buck's Hotel, good and comfortable; the Roms- dalen, tolerable. Pop. about 1200. This town is built upon a promontory on the N. side of the Molde Fjord, near its junction with the sea. It consists of one long straggling street along the banks of the fjord. There are several handsome villas in the neighbourhood, and the environs are with justice considered among the most picturesque and beautiful in Norway. "Molde commands a view of the snowy Alps that line the whole of its S. side, and are the N.W. boundary of the Dovre Fjeld. I do not remember such a long-extended range of peaks and pinnacles and shattered ridges, except, perhaps, in the Loffodens. And here one rank peeps out from behind another until they are lost in the distance, and, as they mix with the white clouds, we fancy them like hanging cities or castles in the air. Among them Romsdalshorn appears conspicuous." — Everest's '■ Norway.' The mountains around are seen to greatest advantage from the hill behind the tower, or from a hoat on the fjord. The little trade which exists at Molde is chiefly confined to fish. The Steamers call here regularly every week in passing up and down the coast. It is a convenient place from whence to make an excursion to the magnificent scenery upon the upper parts of the Stor Fjord, and forming part of Lang Fjeld. For stations and distances be- tween Molde and the towns N. and S. of it on the coast, see Rtes. 24 and 25. The ^ords about here abound in wild fowl, including the eider-duck, which is found all along this coast. The habits of this bird are interest- ing. The nest is made on the ground, composed of marine plants, and lined with down of exquisite fineness, which the female plucks from her own body. The eggs are usually 4, of a pale olive-green. They allow their nests to be robbed of the eggs and down three times ; after that, if further molested, the birds desert the place. So avaricious of progeny is this duck that, when plundered of her own, she will sometimes steal the eggs and young of others. When the female has stripped herself of all her down, the male comes in aid — his is white. In the Storthing of 1847, a law was passed for the protection of game, wild fowl, &c., and since then the islands along this coast frequented by these ducks have become a valuable property. Each nest during the breeding season produces about | lb. of down, but which, when picked and cleaned, is reduced to J. So firm Norway. ROUTE 31. — OHRISTIANIA TO TRONBHJEM. 175 and elastic is this beautiful down that the same quantity which can be compressed between the two hands will serve to stuff a quilt or coverlet, and while its weight is scarcely per- ceptible, it has more warmth than the finest blanket. Eider-down may be purchased at Trondhjem. KOUTE 31. CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM OVER OSTERDALEN, UP THE VALLEY OP THE GLOMMEN, AND THROUGH RORAAS. Dist. 481 Norsk m., or 33G Eng. ; but by using the new road from Neby, instead of going by Roraas, it is only 46 J. See preliminary obser- vations to Rtes. 26 and 32. The scenery upon this route is not so interesting as that over the Dovre Fjeld, and is therefore seldom tra- versed by those who are unacquainted with the latter route. But the valley of the Glommen, with its vast pine- forests, and picturesque falls and cataracts, is very fine ; and the trout and other fish in the river and its numerous tributaries are highly spoken of. The fall near Frederik- stad prevents any salmon getting higher up the Glommen. There is no salmon-fishing to be had upon this route until after passing Roraas and arriving at the Gula River ; the best is about Rogstad, near where this route joins that over the Dovre Fjeld. Some of the finest description, as well as the largest quantity, of pine- timber exported from Norway, and that chiefly cut up into deals, is pro- duced on the banks of the Glommen and its tributaries. In the spring the logs are floated down to the saw- mills at the falls of the Glommen near Frederikstad. The deer-shoot- ing to be had in the autumn upon this route is said to be excellent; the best is about Foldal, towards the Dovre Fjeld, and the other northern parts of the bailiwick of Osterdalen. Elk are at times met with there, though very rarely, and then chiefly towards the borders of Sweden. Bears and wolves are frequently killed in the wild district on the E. side of Stor So. Ptarmigan and hares are abundant in parts of Oster- dalen. The country is very wild, and thinly inhabited. The E. side of the whole of the upper part of the Glommen, and from thence to the Klar and Dal Rivers in Sweden, com- prises one of the finest sporting dis- tricts in both countries. See also Rte. 74, as to the country between the Klar and W. Dal. The shortest and best route is to proceed direct to Hamar by steamer on the Miosen from Eidsvold ; vide Rte. 26. From Hamar there is a Bailway to Grundsset, dist. 3^ m. There are 2 trains daily, but on Sundays 1 only. Should the traveller fail to avail himself of it, he may proceed to t Korsodegaarden i Stange as in Rte. 29, and thence branch off to the rt. to t Koloen i Bomedal, | ; and f Sdr- sand i Bomedal, 1\. The next station is Vollestad i Lolten, |, which is also a station on the railway; and t Grundsxt i Mverum, 1|, the ter- minus. From Christiania to Grundsset, by rail and steamer, is 15§. The journey may be agreeably varied in going from Trondhjem to Christiania, by keeping down the valley of the Glom- men through Kongsvinger. There is a road on each side of the river. Th e stations on the E. bank from Grund- sset are — to f BcsMevold, ^ ; f Elsxt, 2^ ; rest i hr. at Houmh. fMelby, If ; t Aiistad, f ; t Kirhenxr i Grue, 1| ; Brandvold, 1^ ; thence crossing Gjol- stad Sund to T. f Kongsvinger, IJ. Travellers intending to explore the 176 ROUTE 31, — CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. Norway. Trysil district will proceed from Bsekkevold thus — to f Mo i Mverum, 1|, pay for 2 ; to -fAxelhuvs i Trysil, 2\, pay for 3§ ; to f Vestal i Trysil, 2yL pay for 3|. The stations on the W. bank are — Grundsset to Berger i Eherum, 1\ ; Braslwrud, 1| ; Oengen, 1| ; Lo- vaasen, f ; Holmrydningen, f ; Nses, IJ; Nordre Bolstad, IJ ; -f Kongs- vinger, f . Thence to Christiania, see Kte. 32. But to continue. From Grundsset the grand part of the Glommen valley commences — the road keeps along the foot of a steep range of mountains on the W., until it enters the fine valley of the Austa^ which stream is crossed near t Nordre Aaset i A amot, 1|. The station is good. Upon this stage the Been Elv, from the Stor So, enters the Glommen on the E. t Odegaarden i Aamot, |. This station lies 1 Eng. m. off the road ; horses may generally be had at Lap- stuen, between whicli and next sta- tion pay only for 2 m. [If going via Stor Soen, probably arrangements might be 'made at last station to take the same horse to Dissst. Boute hy Stor Soen, * f I^isset, 2 m., pay for 3, a heavy road; * t Lossxt, 1, but the same horse will go to Skjorbund, the southern end of the lake, whence the steamer starts daily for Akre. Capital trout and grayling fishing at Lossset, which is an excellent station to put up at. A track over the mountains leads to the Klar Elv. Shooting well spoken of,l The Haft Elv is crossed before reaching t Ophuustuen i Mvedalen, 2J. This station is on the E. bank of the river. Travellers who are obliged to sleep here generally leave their carrioles at a small hut, where the horses are changed, and are then ferried over to the station. It is a particularly bad station. Four torrents are crossed on this stage, and the Imse Elv near * t Bognstad MoJdebye i Elvedalen, 1| ; a very good station. A horse- track leads hence through the moun- tains to the W., and enters Gudbrands- dal near Losnyes, Ete. 26. Between Moklebye and the next station, upon the E. bank of the Stor So, there re- sides a hunter, whose services the sportsman would do well to secure, as deer, and sometimes elk and bear, are to be met with on that side of the lake. It is, indeed, one of the finest sporting districts in Norway. * t Vestgaard i Mvedalen, IJ. Here our route crosses the Glommen to the 1. bank, and leaving that river, a very long and hilly stage across the moun- tains is commenced, great part of which is along the 1. bank of the Stor So. There are two arms of the Glommen to be crossed; one ferry is an operation of some diffi- culty, when the river is full. The Glommen is left here, and not seen again till Neby. It is a capital sta- tion. Where the road crosses the river at Vestgaard, a horse-road leads up the 1. bank to Stein, at the en- trance of Steindalen, from whence a road joins our route higher up at Neby. By this way 40 Eng. m. of the Glommen maybe explored, which are not seen upon the direct route. Akre i Bendalen, 2|, but pay for 4. This stage is also very hilly — road all the way up the valley of the Bena Elv. Mysherget i Ovre Bendalen, 2, pay for 2f. Indifferent accom- modation. The road hence lies through a dense pine-forest for 20 Eng. m., in which hardly a human being is met with. The solitude is very striking. In some parts large tracks have been destroyed by fire ; the charred stems of which present a most remarkable appearance. A fine mountain, called "Bellingen," is seen at intervals on the 1. Eyper plentiful about Engen. Here a horse-path leads W. to the Glom- men, where it separates, and to the N. leads to the Dovre Fjeld ; to the S. it cuts another track to Gud- brandsdalen, whicli it enters near Norway, ROUTE 31. — RORAAS. 177 Oien. The ascent is very long and steep, up the valley of the Eena, which is twice crossed on the way to Kirhremo i Tyldal, % pay for 4|. On the last stage the traveller must rest I hour halfway, at Midtskoven. The ascent still continues on this stage — the Rena is again crossed, the fine mountains of the Trons Fjeld, 5761 ft., are passed close on the W., and the valley of the Glom- men is again entered, and the river crossed at t * Sandtrden i Tonset, 1|, but pay for 1|. From Engen to Neby a very heavy road, requiring at least 2 J hours, going S. Here a station- foad runs S. down the rt. bank of the Glommen to Foldalen, and so to Jerkin, on the Dovre Fjeld, 8| m. The stations are — to Gjelten, 2| ; t Nordre Holm i Foldalen^ 2J, pay for 3 ; t Kroghaugen, 1 ; f J^Gilen i Owe Foldalen, 11; ji Jerkin, 1|. Rte. 32 also turns off here. Another Station-road to Trondhjem has been made, which, commencing a short distance on the S.W. of Neby, runs up the valley of the Trniden Elv, crosses the mountains, and descends by the valley of the OrUa Elv, until it enters Rte. 26, near the Garlid Station. The sta- tions are Foshxlcken i Tonset, 1|, pay for 1^; f Stoen i Qvikne (at this station good accommodation is to be had), 2J, pay for 2|; Freng- stad i Qvikne, 1^, pay for 1 J ; Nxverdal, 1\, returning pay for 1 1 (hence in winter one can go to Austberg, 1) ; ^Garlid i Sognedal, 21, pay for 3. This route, which is now the post-road, is 4J m. shorter than by Roraas. {Vide Rte. 26.) In going from Trondhjem to Chris- tiania, those desirous of seeing as much as possible of the Glommen may keep that river in sight nearly all the way, by going from Neby to Stein, and thence taking the horse- road which leads down the valley, and joins our route again at Vest- gaard. (See Etc. 32 for stations on the above road.) From Neby to Roraas our route continues through grand mountain scenery up the valley of the Glom- men. The costumes of the peasants become picturesque. In the Glom- men, as well as the TorneS, and other rivers, the fish are speared by torchlight, as in Scotland. "Few objects are more exciting to the lover of field-sports, or more inte- resting to the admirer of the pic- turesque, than the rugged banks of a mountain torrent lit up by gleaming torches, whilst the foaming stream glitters and sparkles as it bursts amid the rocks here and there at intervals, every object standing out prominently in a blaze of light, whilst at other points of the stream every- thing is shrouded in the blackest darkness, the whole forming a scene to which no painter that ever lived could render justice." — Mil/or d's ' Norway,' p. 280. t Fredertlisgaard i Tolgen, 2. t Ostvand i Tolgen, IJ. The road to this place keeps along the Glom- men. In winter, when the ice bears, horses are changed at Lilleoien. T. * t Roraas, If. This town con- tains about 3000 inhab. It owe sits existence solely to the extensive copper-mines in the neighbourhood, which were discovered in 1645, and have, with few intervals, been worked to a profit ever since. The annual produce of these mines has occasionally been as high as 4000 skippunds, 600 or 700 tons ; at present it rarely exceeds 250 tons. The Mines are well worthy of a visit, and although sunk to a depth of from 200 to 300 fathoms, the workings are nearly all carried on in the direction of the lode, or bed of ore, which seldom inclines above 15° from the horizontal, so that you can, in most cases, walk to the bottom ; in fact, unlike the gene- rality of mines, horses and carts are I 3 176 ROUTE 31. — CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. Norway. Trysil district will proceed from Bsekkevold thus — to f Mo i Elverum, 1^, pay for 2 ; to ^AxeThuus i Trysil, 2 J, pay for 3^ ; to f Vestal i Trysil, 2^\, pay for 3-5 . The stations on the W. bank are — Grundsset to Berger i Elverum, I5 ; Brasherud, If ; Oengen, 1 J ; Lo- vaasen, f ; Holmrydningen, | ; Nxs, IJ ; Nordre Bolstad, 1| ; f Kongs- vinger, f . Thence to Christiania, see Ete. 32. But to continue. From Grundsset the grand part of the Glommen valley commences — the road keeps along the foot of a steep range of mountains on the W., until it enters the fine valley of the Aiista, which stream is crossed near t Nordre Aaset i A amot, 1|. The station is good. Upon this stage the Been Elv, from the Stor So, enters the Glommen on the E. t Odegaarden i Aamot, |. This station lies 1 Eng. m. off the road ; horses may generally be had at Lap- stuen, between which and next sta- tion pay only for 2 m. [If going via Stor Soen, probably arrangements might be 'made at last station to take the same horse to Disset. Boute hy Stor Soeti^ * f Disxt, 2 m., pay for 3, a heavy road; * t LiJssset, 1, but the same horse will go to Skjorbund, the eouthern end of the lake, whence the steamer starts daily for Akre. Capital trout and grayling fishing at Lossset, which is an excellent station to put up at. A track over the mountains leads to the Klar Elv. Shooting well spoken of,l The Haft Elv is crossed before reaching t Ophuustuen i Elvedalen, 2J. This station is on the E. bank of the river. Travellers who are obliged to sleep here generally leave their carrioles at a small hut, where the horses are changed, and are then ferried over to the station. It is a particularly bad station. Four torrents are crossed on this stage, and the Imse Elv near * t Bognstad Moklehye i Elvedalen, 1| ; a very good station. A horse- track leads hence through the moun- tains to the W., and enters Gudbrands- dal near Losntes, Ete. 26. Between Moklebye and the next station, upon the E. bank of the Stor So, there re- sides a hunter, whose services the sportsman would do well to secure, as deer, and sometimes elk and bear, are to be met with on that side of the lake. It is, indeed, one of the finest sporting districts in Norway. * t Vestgaard i Elvedalen, 1|. Here our route crosses the Glommen to the 1. bank, and leaving that river, a very long and hilly stage across the moun- tains is commenced, great part of which is along the 1. bank of the Stor So. There are two arms of the Glommen to be crossed; one ferry is an operation of some diffi- culty, when the river is full. The Glommen is left here, and not seen again till Neby. It is a capital sta- tion. Where the road crosses the river at Vestgaard, a horse-road leads up the 1. bank to Stein, at the en- trance of Steindalen, from whence a road joins our route higher up at Neby. By this way 40 Eng. m. of the Glommen maybe explored, which are not seen upon the direct route. Akre i Bendalen, 2|, but pay for 4. This stage is also very hilly — road all the way up the valley of the Bena Elv. Mysherget i Ovre Bendalen, 2, pay for 2|. Indifferent accom- modation. The road hence lies through a dense pine-forest for 20 Eng. m., in which hardly a human being is met with. The solitude is very striking. In some parts large tracks have been destroyed by fire ; the charred stems of which present a most remarkable appearance. A fine mountain, called "Bellingen," is seen at intervals on the 1. Eyper plentiful about Engen. Here a horse-path leads W. to the Glom- men, where it separates, and to the N. leads to the Dovre Fjeld ; to the S. it cuts another track to Gud- brandsdalen, which it enters near Norway, ROUTE 31. KORAAS. 177 Oien. The ascent is very long and steep, up the valley of the Eena, which is twice crossed on the way to Kirkremo i Tyldal, 2|, pay for 4|. On the last stage the traveller must rest ^ hour halfway, at Midtskoven. The ascent still continues on this stage — the Kena is again crossed, the fine mountains of the Trons Fjeld, 5761 ft., are passed close on the W., and the valley of the Glom- men is again entered, and the river crossed at t * Sandtrden i Tonset, 1|, but pay for 1|. From Engen to Neby a very heavy road, requiring at least 2 J hours, going S. Here a station- road runs S. down the rt. bank of the Glommen to Foldalen, and so to Jerkin, on the Dovre Fjeld, 8J m. The stations are — to Gjelten, 2J ; t Nordre Holm i Foldalen^ 2J, pay for 3 ; t Kroghaugen, 1 ; f TJalen i Ovre Foldalen, 1|; ^Jerkin, IJ. Rte. 32 also turns off here. Another Station-road to Trondhjem has been made, which, commencing a short distance on the S.W. of Neby, runs up the valley of the Tmiden Eh, crosses the mountains, and descends by the valley of the OrUa Elv, until it enters Rte. 26, near the Garlid Station. The sta- tions are Fosbsekken i Tdnset, 11, pay for 1^; -fStoen i Qvikne (at this station good accommodation is to be had), 2J, pay for 2J; Freng- stad i Qvikne, 1\, pay for 1| ; Nseverdal, 1^, returning pay for 1| (hence in winter one can go to Austberg, 1) ; ^Garlid i Sognedal, 2^, pay for 3. This route, which is now the post-road, is 4J m. shorter than by Eoraas. {Vide Rte. 26.) In going from Trondhjem to Chris- tiania, those desirous of seeing as much as possible of the Glommen may keep that river in sight nearly all the way, by going from Neby to Stein, and thence taking the horse- road which leads down the valley, and joins our route again at Vest- gaard. (See Etc. 32 for stations on the above road.) From Neby to Roraas our route continues through grand mountain scenery up the valley of the Glom- men. The costumes of the peasants become picturesque. In the Glom- men, as well as the TorneS and other rivers, the fish are speared by torchlight, as in Scotland. "Few objects are more exciting to the lover of field-sports, or more inte- resting to the admirer of the pic- turesque, than the rugged banks of a mountain torrent lit up by gleaming torches, whilst the foaming stream glitters and sparkles as it bursts amid the rocks here and there at intervals, every object standing out prominently in ablaze of light, whilst at other points of the stream every- thing is shrouded in the blackest darkness, the whole forming a scene to which no painter that ever lived could render justice." — Milford's • Norway,' p. 280. t Frederiksgaard i Tolgen, 2. t Ostvand i Tolgen, IJ. The road to this place keeps along the Glom- men. In winter, when the ice bears, horses are changed at Lilleolen. T. * t Roraas, If. This town con- tains about 3000 inhab. It owe sits existence solely to the extensive copper-mines in the neighbourhood, which were discovered in 1645, and have, with few intervals, been worked to a profit ever since. The annual produce of these mines has occasionally been as high as 4000 skippunds, 600 or 700 tons ; at present it rarely exceeds 250 tons. The Mines are well worthy of a visit, and although sunk to a depth of from 200 to 300 fathoms, the workings are nearly all carried on in the direction of the lode, or bed of ore, which seldom inclines above 15° from the horizontal, so that you can, in most cases, walk to the bottom ; in fact, unlike the gene- rality of mines, horses and carts are I 3 178 ROUTE 32. — OHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEJM. NoTWay. employed to bring the ore to the surface, or at least to the short per- pendicular shafts, by which it is conveyed up. There are no manufactories, nor is agriculture carried on to any ex- tent in the neighbourhood. The inhabitants are supported solely by the traffic created by the mines. This town is situated about 3000 feet above the level of the sea ; it is consequently one of the coldest districts in Norway, the mercury, during the winter, being frequently frozen. In the neighbourhood of Roraas, the traveller will most probably have an opportunity of seeing some of the Laplanders with their deer. There is much to interest and amuse in their peculiar habits and mode of life. From Roraas there is an ex- cellent new road into Sweden — thus to t JErnstgruhen, 1 J ; -fSkotgaarden, 1| ; dstre Malmoyen i Sverige, 1 Norsk, and 1 Swedish mile. From Roraas to the Oresund Lake on the N.E. the Glommen becomes a mountain torrent, forming numerous waterfalls, which, though not large, are many of them highly pictu- resque. Some way from Roraas the Glommen is crossed for the last time, and the ascent continues as the road winds away to the N. from the valley of the Glommen. The summit level of the mountains is attained near t Bergan i Boraas, 1\. A pic- turesque little station, but the people very poor, and the house dirty. It is about 4000 ft. above the sea. The only trees near are birch. This is a very thinly populated district, and a very peculiar dialect is spoken. The small lake passed on the W., before arriving at this station, is the source of the Gula Elv, and along the pic- turesque valley of this stream the road now descends, winding along it for the greater part of the way to Trondhjem. Numerous tributaries of this fine river are passed. t Nsesvold i Alen, |. t Hov, I, pay for 1^ returning. Bamlo i Holtaalen, IJ. Langledet i Holtaalen, 1. Kirhvold i Singsaas, J |. The Gula is crossed to the 1. bank after leaving Kirkvold. t Kjelden i Singsaas, If. t Engen i Storen, 1|. Engen is close to the rly. stat., and has a good hotel. Bailway hence to Trond- hjem. About here the salmon-fishing is well spoken of. On leaving this station, the Gula Elv is crossed, and the Dovre Fjeld road is joined soon after. Vollan i Horrig (or Vol! an), |. From hence to Trondhjem is the same as Rte. 26 ; dist. 4. ROUTE 32. CHRISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM THROUGH KONGSVINGER, AND UP THE VALLEY OF THE GLOMMEN. Distance, 54 Norsk m., or 378 Eng. This route is not to be recommended to those who are unacquainted with the far grander beauties of the Dovre Fjeld road, Rte. 26. The Glommen is the finest river in Norway. By this route, about 300 Eng. m. of this splendid stream may be explored, the road keeping close by it, more or less, the whole dis- tance. The falls and cataracts of the Glommen, and its many beauti- ful tributaries, are numerous, and Norway. route 33. — trondhjem to Stockholm. 179 the scenery increases in grandeur towards the N. There is ample oc- cupation for the sportsman, the angler, and the artist. Nowhere can the pine-forests of Norway be seen to greater perfection than upon this route. Railway from Kongsvinger to Lillestrom on the Eidsvold line, so that the traveller can go the whole distance from Ohristiania to Kongs- vinger by rail, dist. 8;^ m. Two trains run daily up and down, taking about 4| hours. Fares, 1st class, 1 sp.-d. 4 m. ; 2nd class, 1 sp.-d. 1 m. ; dogs, 1 m. each ; carrioles and carts, 1| sp.-d. (Ktes. 26 and 35). Should, however, the traveller prefer going the whole way en car- riole, which cannot be recommended, as the road is but little travelled, and the stations inferior, he will proceed from Ohristiania to t Grorud i Aker, \ m. t Skrimstad i Skedsmo, |, pay for 1. t Kloften i Vllensager, \\. Here the road branches off to the right. t Lund i Ullensager, f . t Opaher i Nses, 1^. Upon this stage the Ous Elv is crossed near its junction with the Glommen. t Korsmo i Odalen, Ij, from which place one can be set over to Skar- nses, a station on the rly. From Korsmo one can post to Nordre Odalen; thus — From t Korsmo to f Ekornhol, 1 J ; f Ostvand, If, resting for ^ hr. on the road. When the ice bears on Storsoen, it is only f m. From -f Korsmo also one can post direct to t Ostvand, 2J, or in winter over the ice, Ij. t Sundby, f . From hence one can be set over to Sander rly. stat. From Sundby to f Ostvand, 2. T. t Kongsvinger, \\. Here there is a bridge over the Glommen (rail to Ohristiania). The traveller can now proceed to Grundsset, 9|, where Kte. 31 is joined either on the E. or W. bank of the Glommen {vide p. 176). 1 From GrundssBt to Vestgaard is the same as in Kte. 31 ; dist. 7J. On crossing the river at Vestgaard, our route separates, and by a by- road keeps along the 1. bank of the Glommen to Hanestad, 4. Near here, on cross- ing a small torrent, a by-road leads N.E., and joins Rte. 31 at Bergsset, IJm. Stein, or Gjelfen i Lille Mvedal, 4. Trout-fishing excellent about here, and the deer and general sliooting well spoken of. From hence a sta- tion-road leads up Steindalen to that most excellent station, Jerkin, on the Dovre Fjeld (see Rte. 26). Dist. 6J m. The stations are — Grimsbo i Nedre Foldalen, 2^, pay for 3 ; t Kroghaugen, 1 ; f Dalen i Ovre Foldalen, 1| ; j Jerkin, IJ. Grossing the Glommen here, and keeping up the right bank, the Tron- fjeld, 5761 ft. high, is seen on the E. Shortly before arriving at the next station, the new road to Trondhjem, up the valley of the Tonden Elv, is passed on the 1. (see Rte. 31) ; and which route our road joins again at Nehy, 2. From hence to Trondhjem as in Rte. 31. ROUTE 33. TRONDHJEM TO STOCKHOLM, THROUGH V^RDAL AND SUNDSVALL. Dist. 90 Norsk m., or 610 English Norsk and Swedish miles are no 182 ROUTE 34.- — ALTEN TO TORNeX. Norway, In Winter this route is much frequented, parti- cularly during the fair at Alten, in the latter end of November. It can then easily be traversed in sledges. At that season the journey, as far as Muonioniska, is performed in a pulk, drawn by one reindeer. From Muo- nioniska to Tornea with horses and The charge for a reindeer from Alten to Kautokeino is 4 orts, or 96 skillings, and from Kautokeino to Niska the same sum. Each tra- veller generally hires 3 reindeer ; 1 for himself, 1 for his luggage, and 1 to relieve the other 2. He must also hire 1 for his guide, to whom 4 orts are also to be paid. It is essential to be provided with the warmest clothing. The best plan is to adopt the dress of the Lap- lander, which consists of a good warm cap, and, over the ordinary clothes, a psesk or coat of reindeer skin. This is a large loose garment reaching from the neck to below the knees, and belted round the waist by a leathern girdle ; the lower parts of the dress are called bsellinger, which are leggings, and reach from the ankle high up the thigh ; they are somewhat in the form of spatter- dashers, but with this difference, that they are whole, not having but- tons at the sides, but being fastened at the top by a running string that tightens them, and covered at the bottom by the skalkomager, or shoe of reindeer skin, which is confined by a long narrow band, going several times round the ankle, keeping the whole tight together, and preventing the possibility of any snow getting in. These shoes are well stuffed with soft dry grass (Carex sylva- tica) called senne ; and over a pair of good worsted gloves are worn reindeer mittens, also stuffed with dried grass. No other kind of dress can supply the place of this, which is admirably adapted from its material and make to enable the wearer to sustain the severity of the climate. The reindeer-skins are worn with the hair outwards, and from the peculiar closeness and thickness of their texture, it is impossible for the cold to penetrate them. Every article of clothing which is tight, and liable to occasion numbness by pressing against the skin and impeding the circulation of the blood, should be avoided. The sleeves of the psesk are in general so large that the arms are easily drawn out and re- placed in them without the garment being taken off. The pulk, or sledge, in which the traveller is conveyed, in form some- what resembles a canoe with the stem cut off. It is 5 ft. in length, about 1 6 in. broad, and 8 deep, tlie back board being about twice that height. The head of the pulk comes to a sharp point, the stern is flat, in order that it may be leant against conveniently, and the bottom is con- vex ; it has an oval half-deck in front, covered with seal-skin, to pre- vent the snow being driven in. To this pulk only one deer can be at- tached. The harness consists of a collar of reindeer-skin ; to the lower point of this collar a single trace of strong leather is attached, which passes between the legs of the deer, and is fastened by a small transverse piece of wood to an iron ring at the front of the pulk. Bound the body of the deer is a broad belly-band of coloured cloth, through which the trace passes. Round the neck is a broad loose band or collar of cloth, to which is suspended a bell, the sound of which enables the different members of a party to keep together. The head-stall is merely a strip of seal-skin fastened round the head of the deer, and tied in a knot under its left ear ; to this knot the rein or bridle is fastened, which is likewise only a strip of seal-skin. As soon as the traveller is seated, the deer sets off at full speed. The Norway, BOUTB 34. — ALTEN TO TORNBA. 183 rein is held in the right hand, being sometimes fastened round the wrist by a slip knot, but more usually it is wound once or twice round the hand to keep it firm. From the knot being tied under the left ear, the side on which the rein would con- sequently hang is the left ; but it is necessary that it should always be on the right, to enable the driver more readily to strike the animal on the flank when he wishes to increase its speed, as also to swing it suddenly round on the left side to cause the deer to stop. There is some knack required to keep the rein on the right side, as it is continually getting over to the other. The difficulty of pre- serving the pulk upright is at first very great, and it is only by exactly balancing his body that the traveller can keep it in an upright position. An inexperienced person will in- evitably be rolled over, not merely once or twice, but several times ; but on account of the lowness of the vehicle no bad consequences are likely to ensue. If the pulk were constructed upon any other principle, it would scarcely answer the pur- pose ; the nature of the country, and the snow through which it has frequently to plough its way, require that the bottom of the pulk should be like that of a canoe ; were it broader, the inequalities of the ground it passes over, the depth of the snow, and the steepness of the ascents, would render it impossible for the animal to drag it. In Summer this route is also interesting. The scenery for a considerable distance on the Norwegian side is very grand. The naturalist will find abundant occupation in the botany, geology, and mineralogy of the varied districts traversed. Bears are by no means rare on the Norwegian side ; and in the upper parts of .the mountains wild reindeer are sometimes met with, but from the number of tame deer, which now feed on this fjeld in the summer, and which drive away the wild ones, not so frequently as formerly. Ducks and plover are plentiful about the end of August, but not later than September, when they are frozen out, and migrate southwards and west- wards. But few ryper (woodgrouse) are to be found, as the route for the most part is at a greater elevation than the scrub grows which these birds frequent. Neither will the traveller have much time to di- verge right or left from the track in pursuit of them, as it is necessary to get from one Fjeldstuen to the next before night closes in. Trout are plentiful in the small lakes and streams ; and salmon in the Muonio and Tomea rivers; in the upper parts of which these fish are chiefly speared by torchlight. It is said that salmon in these rivers, and in- deed in all those which flow into the Gulf of Bothnia, will not rise at a fly. It is doubtful what is the cause of this. It has been stated that they are a different species of sal- mon, but the more probable explana- tion seems to be that the Gulf of Bothnia and the Baltic contain so much fresh water that the salmon never reach the sea, and consequently are never in such good condition, or so hungry for a fly, as those on the j W. coast of Norway. Their flesh, I when cooked, is certainly much whiter. The journey is fatiguing; but gentlemen need not fear taking it. After the first 2 or 3 m., through- out the entire distance from Alton to Kautokeino, there are no inhabited houses, except the ch§,lets or sta- tions erected at the public expense for the accommodation of travellers ; and though the interior merely con- tains a rough bench, and a square hearth, with an aperture in the roof for the egress of the smoke, the tra- j veller, after the fatigues of the day's I journey, hails them with gratitude. I They commonly contain one decent 184 ROUTE 34. — ALTEN TO TOENEA. Norway. guest-chamber, set apart for the use of travellers, in which it is possible to sleep. Here and there some Lap- land tents may be met with, as all the mountain Laplanders are no- mads. From Alton to Kautokeino is 16 Norsk m., or 112 Eng., and can only be traversed on foot or horseback. The traveller may engage a guide and horses at Bosekop for the whole way thence to Karesuando. This arrangement is very convenient, as it leaves him free to arrange the details of the journey according to his pleasure. Johannes Strand is an excellent guide, a first-rate walker, and always ready to make himself useful. He is paid 14 dollars, and 10 dollars for each horse. The luggage taken should be as . little as possible, and will be most readily carried in saddle-bags. The river is navigable for about 4 m. from its mouth ; and from Alten, for some distance towards Kautokeino, there are two horse-tracks, one of which keeps up the grand valley of the Alten, and follows the winding of the river until it joins our route, which is the more direct and usual one, and keeps to the W. of the Alten. There is little interest in the scenery, its features being dreariness and innu- merable small lakes. Fuel and fodder for horses equally scarce. Game also scarce from want of cover. Salmon, intercepted by the falls of the Alten, are confined to the lower part of the river. During about the first 20 hrs. from Alten, the way is very steep and mountainous, the fir and other trees become gradually stunted, and the birch at length is alone seen at about 898 ft. above the sea. The ascent then becomes less rapid, a large tract of dreary levels is passed, and at their termination the last glimpse of the sea near Alten is obtained. The ascent then continues again, until a vast table-land, abounding in rein- deer moss, is attained; the highest part of which is Nuppi Vara, 2655 ft. above the sea. This hill com- mands a most extensive view. To the N., the snowy chain of the Lyn- gen is seen, while beneath and around extends a dreary waste, with nume- rous small lakes. To the S. it is level, and of immense extent. Here Laplanders, with their herds of rein- deer, may usually be met with in summer. About 2 m. before the end of this stage a descent is com- menced, and the deep and rapid Sia- herdasjochy which is the principal source of the Alten River, is crossed, shortly before arriving at Kauto- keino. The journey to Kautokeino may be thus divided :— Stations. Miles. Bosekop to Grargia . . . . 2 J Gargia to Solavama . . . . 3| Solavama to Bingis Jervi . . 4 Bingis Jervi to Kautokeino 6 Perhaps a less fatiguing and more interesting way is to ascend the Alten River in boats, for about 4 m. from its mouth, having previously ar- ranged to have horses in waiting at the hut, where the track diverges from the river ; thence, to cross the mountains to another point of the Alten River, where boats from Kau- tokeino should have been ordered be- forehand to meet the travellers. This can be done by writing from Alten some days before starting. Informa- tion of the days when the mountain post goes would be furnished at Bose- kop. We have been favoured with some notes of the route. " Aug. 26. We left Alten in the evening in two boats, and were poled up the river to a small house on the W. bank, about 4 m. from the mouth, accompanied so far by some friends to see us off. This house, in which we slept, is about 20 ft. long by 14 wide. It is divided into 2 rooms. In the outer one, about 14 ft. by 8, 11 adult men, 1 woman, 1 child, and a baby, slept. The next Norway, ROUTE 34. — ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. 185 morning we started about 7; our luggage, consisting of 2 oblong bas- kets, covered witli tarpaulin, a cook- ing apparatus, and 2 waterproof car- pet bags, was slung upon 2 liorses. There was a third for riding. The baskets contained our provisions, which consisted of a ham, some bacon, some bread and biscuits packed in tins, coifee, sugar, port- able soup, and a tin or two of pre- served meat, which we fortunately had with us. Our course lay about west, away from the river, up a valley through bii'ch and fir trees, against which the horses bumped our bag- gage considerably. Part of the forest had been lately burnt ; the trees were still standing, but dead and bare, the picture of desolation. It is stated that, when a fir forest is burnt, birch- trees spring up in its place, and vice versa. About 3 hrs. brought us up on to the bare Fjeld, from whence we obtained a fine view backwards of the hills on each side of the river, and of some mountains to the N.E. We fancied they were the mountains of Seiland, at the mouth of the Alten Fjord. A little farther on, we had a view of the mountains near Kvse- nangen Fjord, on the W. When the Fjeld is attained, it is an undulating plateau, with very gentle ascents and descents for a great ' extent. No- thing around but reindeer moss {Ce- nomyce rangi/erina), a little reedy grass, and bare stones. No birds, or living creatures of any kind. The extreme silence and stillness is, per- haps, the most striking feature. This was only broken by passing a Lapp encampment with a few deer about it. About 8 we reached Ladne-jaure, where we again came upon the river, descending to it over an abrupt cliff, which only Norwegian horses would attempt to descend. This is reckoned to be 6 fjeld miles from the hut, where we had slept the night before. We were fortunate enough to find a gamme of boughs here to sleep in, constructed by our Norwegian friend, which was same shelter from the pouring rain. We had ordered two boats from Kautokeino to meet us here. " Aug. 28. The next morning we started about 9. The river here widens out into still shallow lakes, with little stream through them, so that with rowing and sailing we pro- ceeded at about the rate of 1 Norsk mile an hour. There were plenty of ducks about, of which we were fortunate enough to shoot some for dinner, to which, boiled with port- able soup, they were a very great addition. We regretted much we had no spinning tackle with us. There must be trout of very great size in these entirely unfished waters, and at times the boats were not going too fast to admit of trying for them in our course. There were oc- casionally some fishing eagles on the banks, one of which my companion with some difficulty shot. I had seen, the week before, in the Alten Kiver, an eagle make an attempt to carry off a salmon, which was too large for him. I heard a great flapping of wings on the water in the stream at the bottom of the pool, and, on look- ing down, saw a great fight between the fish and the bird. The bird could not lift the fish out of the water, but could bring him to the surface. At length the fish dragged the eagle under water, and all was quiet. Pre- sently they reappeared, and the same contest took place on the surface once more. This was repeated three times, and at last the eagle was dragged down, and I saw no more of them. My boatman informed me that in- stances had occurred of salmon being taken in their nets, with the body of an eagle attached to them, both dead of coui'se ; the eagle having been unable to withdraw its claws. We had dinner at Masi, an old Lapp church, but unused for 100 years. There is no roof, and a birch-tree was growing in the middle of it. All the baulks of timber, of which 186 ROUTE 34. — ALTEN TO TORNEA. Norway, it is built, must have been brought up singly over the snow by rein- deer from Alten. About 5 p.m. we reached a fine fall of about 50 feet in height, over which a great volume of water was falling. The boats had to be dragged over land here, and as this operation took some time, we passed the night on an island in the middle of the river ; our Lapp boatmen lighting an enormous fire, and making a shelter by turning the boat upside down. The next day we reached Kautokeino in about 4 or 5 hours; the banks of the river getting lower and lower, as we ascended, till near Kautokeino they were but little above the river. The distance from Alten to Kautokeino by this route we roughly calculated to be about 19 miles. With a strong north wind it might very easily be done in 3 days. The expenses for 2 were — 3 horses from Alten to Ladne- jaure about 16 sp.-d. The bargain should be made before starting. From Ladne-jaure to Kautokeino, 2 boats with 4 men, 13 sp.-d. The most fa- vourable time for this trip is in the middle of August, before the days shorten sensibly. The melting of the snow in June, and early in July, con- verts every stream into a torrent, and every spring into a morass. " The mosquitoes in July and the heginning of August are so trouble- some as to deprive the trip of all pleasure, much worse than in India or Australia. The Lapps use spirit of tar, an efi'ectual but disgusting pre- ventive. The wrists, being much exposed, should be protected by gauntlets. In September the days shorten so considerably, and the nights become so cold, that camping out becomes unpleasant." Kautokeino. The Landhandler re- ceives travellers, and the accommo- dation is good. 16 m. over the fjeld all the way, or 19 m. by Ladne-jaure and Masi. There is a small colony of Kvsens settled here ; their ances- tors came from Finland. Kautokeino is situated in a shallow valley, or basin, opening towards the north- east. The country round is per- fectly bare of trees. In winter the cold is intense. On the southern bank of the river the ground remains frozen the whole year round. Grain and other supplies have to be brought up all the way from Alten. The population in winter consists of about 800 Lapps, but in summer of not more than 80. Still, for some years past, the stationary population has been on the increase, and the churcli is now kept open all the year round. It was built in 1660, and stands on a slight eminence. In summer, the inhabitants of this village gain their principal subsistence by fishing in the numerous lakes about these mountains, and in collecting fodder for their cattle in winter. Here also many Lapland families keep their stores of winter clothing, &c., as at that period they descend from the higher ranges and congregate about this place. Kautokeino is 834 feet above the sea. A track leads from hence to the N.E., at Karas- jok, 8 m., where it joins that from Alten to the Tana Elver, mentioned in Ete. 24. The ordinary post-track from Bosekop follows the valley of the Alten for a mile or two, and then leaves it, crossing a ridge on W., not to return to it until its junction with the Siaberdasjock, 1 Norsk m. from — Kautokeino, to Mortas, 2 N. m. 1 Q. / Suaservi, 5 m. / ^*^*^^^^- There are no horses to be had in Kautokeino, andthey mustbe ordered beforehand from Karesuando, in Sweden, distant about 10 m. They should be ordered by writing from Bosekop, and time must be allowed for them to come. From Kautokeino the country is comparatively level, the mountains seem being detached, and rarely ex- ceed about 500 ft. from the surrounding Norway, BOUTB 34. MXrONIONISKA. 187 plain. The ascent, however, again commences from Kautokeino, but is very gradual until it reaches the small lake of Jedechejaure, 1378 feet above the sea. " Forests of fir and birch close in on our track, being first seen at an ele- vation of 1327 feet above the sea; but there was little else of interest. '* Karesuando, 2 m., is on the S. side of the Muonio, which is a fine river, dividing Swedish Lappmark from Eussian Finland, more than 200 yards wide, although it must be more than 250 Eng. m. from the sea. There is a nice church here, and an appearance of prosperity very striking after the desolation of the Fjeld. Barley ripens here. " The next day we took a boat with 3 men, and got as far as Muonioniska. The boats are of the same construc- tion as the Alton boats, but larger ; 35 ft. long, 4 wide, and 3 or 4 narrow planks deep. Two men row, and one steers with a large paddle. The stream is very rapid, and the cataracts numerous, but the boatmen are very expert. Dense forests clothe the Eussian bank ; there are greater attempts at agriculture on the Swedish side. Halfway between Karesuando and Muonioniska, Pala- joensum, where the winter road joins the river, is passed." Muonioniska, 10 from Karesuando by water, or 16 from Kautokeino by the winter road. Muoniovara, about 1 Eng. m. from Muonioniska, on the Swedish side of the river, is the most comfortable place in the district. Fostrum, who keeps it, is very civil to travellers. After the dirt and discomfort of crossing the Fjeld, a Eussian J bath is a great luxury. They are generally to be had in any town or village of the Finmark, Lappmark, or Finland. There is a small building devoted to the pur- pose. A pile of hot stones are heaped up, in one comer, on which water is thrown. The patient is seated on a shelf high up near the roof, and gently flagellates himself with a bundle of birch twigs, while the steam ascends all round him. 125° Fahr. was as much as I could bear comfortably, though the natives, with whom this is a weekly custom in winter, take it much hotter. They go from this heat, and plunge in cold water, or roll in the snow for a short time. After which they return to the bath, and are soaped and washed by an old woman, who is in attend- ance. From Muonioniska. In summer the usual and most delightful mode of making all the rest of the journey to Tornea is by water. The Karesuando boatmen will not go farther than this, but there is no diflSculty in procuring others. Fares. Each boatman. . 1 rix-doUar^ per Each boat .. ..12 ore / mile. IJ rix-dollar for pilot over the falls. For 1 passenger, 2 boatmen, for 2, 3 boatmen, are required. The boats used are sharp at each end, and as buoyant as nut-shells. They are only calculated to contain two passengers besides the boatmen ; two rowers sit in the bows, and in the stern of the boat is the steers- man with a heavy paddle with which he guides the boat. The river is broad, of an imposing appearance, and broken by innumerable cataracts ; nevertheless, it is not so difficult or dangerous as some travellers have represented it to be, the rapidity of the descent being lessened materially by its great length. Sometimes the inclination of the water is scarcely to be perceived ; at others, the waves rush boiling and foaming against the rocks, appearing to carry the devoted boat to destruction, which, however, no sooner nears the apparent danger than it is whirled off and passes by in safety. It is at these critical moments that the dexterity of the 188 ROUTE 34:. — ALTEN TO TORNEA. Norway, helmsman is called into requisition : the most experienced and boldest boatman is always selected for that office, and it is surprising to observe with what calmness and steadiness he guides the boat through the greatest dangers. The banks of the river, which are somewhat flat, are covered with vege- tation, and thickly wooded with the birch, pine, fir, and a variety of wil- low. There is little of interest, how- ever, all the way down from Niska to Tornea. Hardly a word of anything but Finlandic is understood before reaching Matarengi. Mr. Bayard Taylor's * Northern Travel' suggests a vocabulary of Finlandic words, which were suffi- cient to carry him through the country. They are pronounced as spelt. The spelling of many words is wrong. Yxi. Kaxi. Golme. Nelja. Visi. G Gust. Horses Abed Togo To eat Good Large Boat House Where Are you ready ? Look sharp How much Good night Drive on A mile Bread Meat Milk Butter Fire Not Over To sleep 7 Schtima, 8 Kahdexan. 9 Yhdexan. 10 Gymmenda. i JBoeli, Hevorste. Sua. Huwa. Esau. Venne. Tupa. Missa. Ongus sia walmis ? Hopposta. Goinga hailon. Huwaste. Ayo peril. Peligorma. Leiba. Idha. Maito. Voyda. Valhja, Ala. Boiki, Nuhko. Bad Small Come here Bring here Pdhd. Picco. Tuoli denne. Towa denne. On leaving Muonioniska, small farms appear, and fields of barley, which is the only grain that can ripen about here. Half a mile from Muo- nioniska are the rapids of Eyanpaika, or Muonio-hosi, the steepest and most dreaded on the river. These rapids continue for nearly an English mile, rushing between naked rocks, which stand like encampments on each side ; a few solitary trees over- hang the banks, and excepting these nothing is to be seen but the clear blue sky above, and the foaming waters which appear to be whirling you to destruction. Not a sound is heard but the roaring of the waters, as they foam and dash against num- berless obstructions. It is a grand and most exciting spectacle. *' The most dangerous part of the whole consists of two nearly perpen- dicular falls, one about 100 yards distant from the other. The higher one is of a horseshoe shape, with a sheer fall of about 6 ft., stretching apparently right across the river. There is, however, on the eastern side a creep, through which the water rushes, instead of falling perpendicu- larly, and it is through this that the boat shoots at railway speed. The roar increases as you approach this, the stream boils more and more, the rowers quicken their stroke, and the boat is whirled into the tumbling bay between the two falls. It is necessary to cross this ; for the passage down the lower fall is on the western side, the descent of which is very similar to that of the higher one, ex- cept that the boat floats out into some back-water immediately below, while the men quietly commence baling. Perhaps the most dangerous part of all is between the two falls, for the stream has to be crossed with the boat, at times, broadside to the l^orway. HOUTE 34. — MATAEENGI. 189 waves. Tills space is full of rocks also, and there is barely time to get the boat's head straight, before it is whirled into the second fall. Till quite of late years this rapid was esteemed quite impassable, and boats were dragged overland, but a certain Karl Eegina, looking from the bank one day, thought he saw that a clear course was possible, and made the ex- periment alone, letting the boat down stern foremost by rowing against the stream, and so retaining steerage way. He was quite successful, and since that time he is the recognised pilot, and receives a regular fee for taking boats down." From Muoniovara (about 2 Eng- lish miles from Muonioniska on the Swedish side), the stations are as follows : — Muonioalushta^ 1 m. Parkajoki, 3 m. Kihlangi, 2 m. Hunhkiy 3 m. Kolare^ 1|. Kexisvara, 3. The house on the Swedish bank of the river, if it be the station, is very dirty and uncom- fortable. Soon after quitting this station, the Torned River comes rush- ing in by a grand fall upon the W. through a narrow opening of the rocks. The body of water is very great, and swift as an arrow. Iron ores abound about here, and in the upper parts of the Tornea actually form whole mountains. These ores are very rich, but do not produce good iron unless smelted with others of a different quality. Kengis Bruk, at the junction of the Tornea and Muonio, will be found a better place to put up at. It is about one hour's drive S. of Kexisvara. There is no regular station, but the manager of the ironworks will take in travellers. Kardis, 3. Pello, 2^. There is a good station here, and the people are very civil. The country now becomes very rich, and the Armenian-like costmne of the peasants is picturesque. The rest of the stations are : — Tortola, 2. JuskengiSy 1. Mariosara, 1|. * Matarengiy 1. The inn and car- riole station is now at Euskola, \ m. lower down the river. The accom- modation is fair. There is a good summer road all the way down on the Swedish side from hence to Haparanda. In winter the road is chiefly on the frozen river, diverg- ing occasionally to the Russian or Swedish side to cut off a bend. Even Muonio-kosi itself is frozen over in winter. Matarengi is nearly on the Arctic Circle. E. of it is the moun- tain of Avasaxa, which many tra- vellers have ascended to see the mid- night sun. Celsius, Maupertius, and the French Academicians, came here in 1736 to make astronomical obser- vations. In the last century it seems to have been the ^'hut de voyage " of many distinguished personages, who have left inscriptions in the village of Jukas-jervi, to signify that the world ended about here. Regnard and his companions left the follow- ing inscription : — " Gallia nos genuit, vidit nos Africa, Gangera Hausimus, Europamque oculis lustravimus omnem Casibus et van* is acti terraque marique Sistimus hie tandem, nobis ubi defuit orbis." De Fescourt, Corberon, Re- gnard a Jukasjervi. 18th August, 1681. Another long inscription contains the following sentence : — " Multum fui et terris jactatus et cataractis, multum quoque et cuUcibus passus." — 8. Stewart, civis orhis, 3 Juliit 1787 ("Walking Stewart"). Fares for Posting from Ruskola. Karra (for baggage) ; | if needed, car- > 12 ort per mile. riole ... .J Each horse . 1 rix-doUar „ „ Postboy . . 4 skillings „ „ 190 EOUTE 35. — OHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM. NoTWay, FsekMla, 1^. There is a fine old red-brick eh., with a handsome belfry. Korpikula, 1|. A large clean Inn. Kuhhola, Ifg. Haparanda and TorneI, 1. A short distance N. of this, a white obelisk is passed with the words "Kussian Frontier" written on it. There are good quarters here, in a large and good hotel. For descrip- tion of those towns and roads to Stockholm, see Kte. 81. The Stoch- liolm steamers start from Salmis, the port of Haparanda, 10 m. distant down the fjord. A small steamer carries out passengers to Salmis. The Expenses of the trip of course depend on the number of horses and boajs used. Ours, for 2 persons, amounted to about 83 sp. -dollars, or 19Z. The items were — sp.'d, Alten to Ladne-jaure, 3 horses 20 Ladne-jaure to Kautokeino, 2 boats 13 Kautokeino to Karesuando, 3 horses 21 Karesuando to Muonioniska, 1 boat, 3 men 5 Muonioniska to Matarengi, 1 boat, 3 men 15 Matarengi to Haparanda, by- road . 5 Sundries 4 83 The time consumed was 12 days, including one whole day's rest at Kautokeino, and another at Muonio- niska. The voyage from Haparanda to Stockholm by steamer, coasting along the shores of the Baltic, is described in the Handbook for Sweden. ROUTE 35. CHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM, THROUGH KONGSVINGER, ARVIKA, CARLSTAD, AND BY THE NORTH OF THE WENERN LAKE (rail). Dist. 59| Norsk and Swed. m., or 404 Eng. This is the most direct route between the two capitals. The journey by rail all the way occupies about 18 hours. Before leaving Christiania, a good supply of Swedish small money should, if possible, be obtained. The peasants in Sweden still prefer paper money to coin. After the majestic beauty and grandeur of the scenery in the N. and W. of Norway, this route is com- paratively tame and uninteresting to the lover of mountain landscape. Yet some of the scenery is picturesque. See also preliminary information to Rte. 67, which is joined upon the Swedish frontier. The rly. from Christiania to Eids- vold sends out a branch at LiUestrom Junct. Stat. T. * t KoNGSviNGER Stat. This small town was formerly of some im- portance, being considered as one of the keys of Norway. During the last war between Norway and Sweden the fortifications were repaired, and several additions made to them, but since the union with Sweden they have been abandoned, and in 1823 the garrison was entirely removed. The Citadel is upon a commanding eminence above the town, which is built upon a high point of land, round which the Ghmmen makes a sudden bend from S. to W., forming a lake, and thus render- Norway. eoute 36. — oheistiania to Stockholm. 191 ing this old frontier fortress a strong position. This lake, in high floods, communicates with another, which sends a considerable body of water by the Vrangs ElVy into the Wenem Lake ; and this probably has been, and still would be, the course of the whole body of the Glommen, but for the sudden deflection at a right angle to its previous course, which it takes at Kongsvinger. — Laing. On crossing the Glommen at Kongsvinger, the rly. keeps S.E. along the bank of the Vrangs Elv, which i-uns towards the Wenem, sometimes spreading into a long winding lake, partly hidden by trees and picturesque rocks. The whole country, when seen from the heights, appears a moving sea of woods. The timber felled in these forests may be sent into Sweden by the Vrangs Elv and "Wenem Lake, on the E. ; and on the W. by the Glommen, into the North Sea. Charlottenberg Stat. The Swedish Frontier is crossed. The boundary line is here an avenue cut through the forest, with piles of stones within view of each other, and these are carefully kept up along the whole line of this long frontier. Arvika Stat., on the N.W. Swe- dish Rly., a town of 900 Inhab., with iron and glass works. Carlstad Stat. {Inn : Gastgefvare- garden), a town of 4,800 Inhab., often burned down. Christinehamm Stat., on the N. shore of the Wenern Lake (Inn: Societatshuset), a town of 3,200 Inhab. Ironworks near it. Bjorneborg Stat. Degerforss Stat. Svarta Stat. Laxa Junct. Stat., on the W.Rly. from Gotheborg to Stockholm. Terminus. The por- tion of the line between Arvika and Laxa will be opened 1871. See Handbook for Sweden* EOUTE 36. OHEISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM, BY FRE- DERIKSHALD AND THE SOUTH OF THE WENEEN LAKE. Dist. 71 Norsk and Swed. m., or 483 Eng. This route is considerably longer than the last, but the scenery upon it is more picturesque,^ and it embraces all the towns on the* eastern side of the Christiania Fjord, besides the Falls of the Glommen, and of the Gotha River, at TroUhdttan. As to money, &c., see preliminary information to Rte. 34, and also to Rte. 69, which this joins at the Swedish frontier. The traveller can avail himself of the steamer to Frederikshald, which runs twice a week in April, May, September, and October, and three times in June, July, and August. The average passage is 8 or 9 hrs. There are several ways of reaching Frede- rikshald by land. The best and usual route is by the new road on the eastern shore of the fjord to t Lian i Aher, 1. t Biis i Aas, If ; from Riis one can post to Drobak, 1\. * Drobak is built upon the E. bank of the Christiania Fjord, and in the narrowest part of it. The Pop. is about 1500. It has a small export trade in timber and deals, and a large traffic in ice (called Wenham) to England, furnished by a company who have bought a lake near this for the purpose. Opposite the town is a little island, upon which the Go- vernment have constructed a fortress, intended to protect the capital against a cowp de main by steamers or other vessels coming up the fjord. Pro- ceeding from this, the next station ia t Ostby-Odegaarden i Vestby, 1|. Hence to Drobak, 1^. t Smorhsek i Soner, 1|. Towards the end of this stage the road is 192 ROUTE 36.-— OHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM. NoTWaiJ. a^ain close along the E. bank of tlie Christiania Fjord. T. * t Moss, f . This town is pic- turesquely situated on the bank of the fjord. It is the capital of the Amt of Smaalehnes, and the re- sidence of the Amtmand. It has about 4000 Inhab. There are several sawrtiills in the neighbourhood, and it has a large export trade in timber and deals. The ch. is a handsome building. There are baths in the town, which are much resorted to in the summer season by the inhabitants of Christiania. When the Swedes under Bernadotte invaded Norway, in 1814, it was at Moss, on the 14th of August in that year, that the con- vention and armistice were agreed upon, and which immediately pre- ceded the final union of the two crowns. On the opposite side of the fjord is the small town of Horten. Those who desire to proceed to the W. of Norway from Moss can do so by the following stages: — Tronvigen, J m. Thence across the fjord to Horten, 1|. Bruserod, If, where Rte. 24 is joined, on the way to Drammen or Kongsberg. Or from Horten the same route can be entered at Fyldpaa, 1|, on the way S. to Laurvig and Christiansand. Continuing our route from Smorbsek, the next station is * t B.illingen i Bygge, 1\. Dillingen lies I m. E. of Moss, and is not used if the traveller is going to or from Moss, in which case he proceeds to Carls- huus, 1|. T. t CarMiuus i Baade, 1. From hence a road to the S. diverges from our route, and leads by f Krabberod, IJ, and after crossing the Glommen by a ferry to the town of T. t Frederikstad, |. A fair Inn. Steamer several times a day to Sarps- borg. The greater part of this road is along the bank of the most W. branch of the Glommen, which is crossed by a ferry near the town. The Pop. is about 3000. Formerly it had a considerable trade, but, since the erection of Sarpshorg, its com- merce has greatly diminished. This is a fortified town, and was of con- siderable strength, but of late years the works have been much neglected. In 1716, Charles XII. of Sweden attempted to carry it by a coup de main, but failed, and, moving upon Christiania, was so roughly handled by the brave Norsemen that he was compelled to retreat, with the loss of 4000 men, and thus ended his in- vasion of Norway for that year. A steamer calls here every morning, about 11 o'clock, on her way from Frederikshald to Christiania (see Ute. 20). From Frederikstad our route can be joined at Sarpsborg, If; or at the station at Oiestad, If, through which a road leads from hence to Frederikshald. The splendid fall of the Glommen, known as Sarp- fos, is about 1^ m. up the river from Frederikstad, and about the same distance by the road. For descrip- tion of the fall, see below, at Sarps- borg. Direct Boute continued. — Shortly after leaving the last station, Carls - huus, a road upon the N. is passed, which leads up the valley of the Glommen to Christiania. The W. branch of that river is subsequently crossed, and the stage ends at t Haraldstad, 1|, pay for 1§ ; from whicli place one can post to f Sarps^ &orgr, I m.. and join the direct road again at Oiestad, 1|. T. t Sarpsborg. This was formerly a town of considerable importance, containing no less than 7 churches. In 1567, it was entirely destroyed by the Swedes, and not rebuilt. The site of the town formed part of the estate of Borregaard, which was pur- chased many years since by Sir J. H. Felly, Bart., who obtained permission from the Storthing for the rebuilding of the town, which, after a lapse of nearly 3 centuries, is now fast rising into its former consequence. The Pop. at present is about 1000. The town is situated on the rt. bank of Norway. ROUTE 36.— THE SARP-FOS. 193 the Glommeu, nearly an Eng. m. below the celebrated fall. Timber ships of the largest class come up here. The Sarp-fos. The finest views of this splendid fall are from a short distance below the distillery, and from the opposite bank, at Hafslund. The height of the fall is 72 Norsk ft. This branch of the majestic Glom- raen is much contracted immediately before it arrives at the fall. On the brink a projecting mass of granite divides the stream, which falls almost vertically and unbroken. The body of water is very great, and there are some large masses of granite about the bottom of and below the fall, through and over which tlie foaming water rushes for a short distance, and then flows gently onwards to the sea. The numerous sawmills and build- ings close to the fall on both sides detract from the picturesque grandeur of this Schaffhausen of the North. The volume of water which thunders down here at all seasons may be judged of by the fact that in summer, upon the brink of the fall, the stream measures 116 Norsk ft. in width, by 26 in depth at the deepest part ; and in spring, after the melting of the snow, that depth is sometimes in- creased by as much as 30 ft. A great portion of the right bank of the stream at the fall, and for a considerable distance below it, is chiefly composed of a stiff blue clay, and formerly the river flowed by Sarpsborg in a succession of magni- ficent rapids. At that time a very fine mansion, with its numerous out- buildings, stood near the termination of those rapids. On the 5th of January, 1702, a fearful catastrophe occurred. The mansion, together with everything in it, sunk into an abyss 100 fathoms deep, and was instantly covered with the foaming waters. The house was doubly walled, but of these, as well as of several high towers, not a trace w^as left ; 14 persons and alx)ut 200 [Norirn'?/.! head of cattle were engulfed, and perished on this awful occasion. The cause of this event is attributed to the fact of the Glommen having gradually undermined the high bank on which the mansion was situated. {Everest's * Norway,' p. 276.) At the present mansion-house of Borre- gaard, there is a large picture of the rapids of the Glommen and the ad- joining country, which was painted the year prior to this accident ; it is most interesting, as it enables the alterations which have taken place to be accurately traced. The noble water-power at this fall has long been tui*ned to great account for sawmills. The left bank is in the occupation of a company, whose business is exclusively confined to timber. The right bank is entirely occupied by an expensive establish- ment, not only of sawmills upon the newest principles, but also a large ironfoundry and agricultural imple- ment manufactory ; a flour mill, dis- tillery, and a brickyard, besides a large farm, and buildings in propor- tion for the numerous horses and cattle, which must all be housed in winter. The system pursued here combines all the economy of a Nor- wegian farm with the most approved modes of English agriculture. The company give employment to about 300 hands, and their establishment is the largest of its kind in Norway. The old and horrid system of paying the men partly in rations of brandy has been abolished, and the most zealous efforts are being made to promote their comfort and permanent well-being, as well as that of their families. The tramway leading from the sawmills to the quay was the first constructed in Norway ; a large tunnel (amply sufficient for a single line of railway), used for floating the timber into the yards, from above the falls, was made in a novel manner. A small aperture was blasted in the usual way in the face of the rock. In this a fire was then lighted, and K 194 ROUTE 36. — CHlilSTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM. NoTWay. kept burning till tlie granite around it became thoroughly heated, when the embers were hastily removed, and 4 men with heavy sledge-ham- mer striking the rock as quickly as possible, it gradually peeled off. The fuel used was the waste outside pieces cut from the logs. Eight men were employed in gangs of 4 each, and the tires were kept up night and day until the work was finished, which was accomplished in two years. The distance cut per month was 2 fathoms 6 inches. From Sarpsborg the Glommen is crossed by a suspension-bridge just above the fall, and the road con- tinues through a poor country to t Oiestad, If. Near the end of this stage a road upon the E. turns off from this route, and leads to T. Frederikshald, 1| m. Inns : Hotel Halden; 8chultzshotel, both good. This town, of 5500 Inhab., is built in the angle formed by the picturesque Idde Fjord at its junction with Swinesund. It has an excellent harbour, in which the largest vessels can be moored. The old name of this town was Halden, to which Frederik HI., in 1665, added his own name, in commemo- ration of its gallant defence against the Swedes. There are several hand- some edifices in the town, which is neat and well-built, and carries on a considerable trade in timber. In 1759 nearly the whole of the place, as it then existed, was destroyed by fire. The fortress of Frederilcsteen is built upon a perpendicular rock, 400 feet high, on the S.E. of the town. The view from it is very beautiful. This place is celebrated not only for the numerous sieges it has stood, but as the place where Charles XII. of Sweden was killed. Having failed in carrying Frederiks- hald when he marched upon Chris- tiania, in 1716, he devoted nearly two years to raising another army for the conquest of Norway. General Arm- felt, with a division of 7000 men, in Sept. 1718, marched through the mountains to attack Trondhjem, but abandoned the attempt, and in their retreat nearly his whole force perished in a snow-storm, which literally over- whelmed them. Charles himself moved upon Frederikshald, and di- rected the operations of the siege. He was killed in the trenches on the 11th Dec, and, when found, his hand was firmly clenched upon the hilt of his sword, which was half drawn from its scabbard. The cause of his death was a shot in the temple, which passed through his hat. This hat lies upon his tomb in the Eiddar- holm Church in Stockholm, and a careful examination of it proves, by the size of the ball, and the horizon- tal direction it took through the thick felt, that he was slain by a pistol-shot upon the same level as that upon which he stood, and not by a gun-shot from the fortress, which was considerably above him. Frederiksteen was formerly of great strength. On 3 sides it is in- accessible. On the 4th, close under the walls of the outer works, a few stones, rudely fastened together, arc said to mark the spot where Charles XII. fell, but no inscription com- memorates that event. Excursion from Frederikshald. — "About 3 Eng. m. E. of the town there is a considerable lake, the Fern Soe, the stream from which fiows into the fjord close to Frederikshald. The body of water is not consider- able, except in May and June, and after heavy rains ; but at all seasons the waterfalls upon this stream ar(3 the most picturesque in the S. of Norway. It is from the sawmills and manufactories established at these falls that Frederikshald owes its commercial importance. There is a pretty walk or drive along the bank of the river from the town to the falls. A few hundred yards above them from the mansion, Wein, there is an extensive and charming Norway, route 37. — ohristiania to helsingborg. 195 view over the Fern Soe, and to the S. W. over the beautiful valley (Tiste- diilen) and the wooded banks of the Idde Fjord. Crossing the bridge over the falls, there is a pleasant drive back to Frederikshald by Frederiksteen." — J. P. From Christiania to Frederiks- hald via Gronnesund, 11 J m. t Christiania to f Lille Steensrud, 1| : t Bovim i Hadbol, 2^ ; f Tetium i Spydberg, IJ. Ferry over Gron- nesund. f Houg i Mdsherg, IJ ; t Fladestad i Raliheatad, 1| ; t Eng i Bahkestad, l^: Kjolodegard i Berg, 1 ; t Frederikshald, IJ. Or by Rodenses and Aremak,\^\TQ.. From Ohristiania to f Bovim, 3^ (see above) ; f Bilet i Askim, I'j, bridge over Glommen ; t Vister i Fidsherg, 1^ ; t Kaldan i Roderiics, 1^ ; Krog- tad i Odemark, J ; Ytterhol i Are- mark, \ ; Fango i Aremark, 1 J ; Skodsberg i Aremark, J ; f Ugjestehye i Berg, 1^ ; f Kjolodegaard, § ; f Fre- derikahald, 1\. This route is also given : — Christiania to f Bovim, 3J. t Benstad i Askim, If. t Hallingtorp i Fidsherg, 1|. t Kallak i Rodenass, 1|. t Bden i Odemark, 1\. t Aslakstrom i Aremark, If. t Hougland i Berg, 2 J. t Frederikshald, If. Or by Fet and Roland, f Chris- tiania to t Finstad, 1^ ; f Nedre Hauge i Fet, 1^; f Aanerud i Fet, 1 ; Larshraaten i Holand, 1| ; t Hellegaard i Holand, If ; f Kaldan i Bodenxs, 2f . See above. A Steamer during the summer months leaves Frederikshald every morning, about 7, on her way to Christiania, where she arrives about 4 P.M. Carriages are taken on board, and the fares are exceedingly moderate (see Kte. 20. The whole length of the Swinesund is highly pictui-esque. One of the finest views of Frederiksteen is from the water, about h an Eng. m. to the W. From Frederikshald a road leads back to our route at the Westgaard Station, f . Continuing the direct Road from Oiestad, the next station is likewise t Wesfgaard, I ; fair quarters. Upon this stage, | m. from Westgaard, Swinesund is crossed by a ferry. There is good accommodation to be had on the Norwegian side. It forms the boundary between Norway and Sweden. t Eogdal, 1% pay for 1|. This is the first station upon the Swedish frontier. From hence the road to the Falls of TroUhdttan and Stock- holm is as in Ete. 71 to Uddevalla (Rte. 69), and from thence as in Ete. 65, 66, Handbook for Sweden. , EOUTE 37. "^ CHRISTIANIA TO HELSINGBORG, THROUGH GOTTENBURG. Dist. 52f Norsk and Swed. m., or 358 Eng. Nearly all the station-houses in Sweden upon this route are wretched places, and there is no scenery, or anything of sufficient interest to compensate for the fatigue, discom- fort, and cost of this long journey by land. From Christiania to the Swedish frontier is the same as in Ete. 36, and from thence, as in Ete. 70, to Helsingborg. By taking the steamer from Christiania to Frederik- stad, near which are the Falls of the Glommen, and going hy land from thence to the Falls of TroUhdttan, and on to Gottenburg, some of tlie finest scenery in this part of Norway and Sweden will be seen, and tlie K 2 196 ROUTE 38. — LEIRDALSOKEN TO ROMSDALEN. Norway, The stations from LeirdaU&ren least interesting and most fatiguing avoided. For steamers from Chris- tiania and from Gottenburg, see those towns. By the direct road from Chris- tiania to Gottenburg it is 30 Norsk and Swed. m., or 204 Eng. KOUTE 38. LEIRDALSOKEN (iN EOUTE 21) TO EOMS- DALEN (in EOUTE 30), OVER THE SOGNE FJELD AND HAALANGEN FJELD. Dist. 17| Norsk m., or 122 Eng. Four days must be allowed for this journey, the second and fourth of which are long and fatiguing. This allows for reaching Optun Station the 1st night ; Hoff the 2nd ; Blaker the 3rd ; and Holseth the 4th. "The scenery upon this route is most grand, and it includes Shagstoh tind, which is 7877 feet,* being 163 higher than Sneehsetten (see Kte. 26), which was long supposed to be the highest. It is now ascer- tained that Galdhopiggen (see an excursion from Bodsheim in Rte. 26) is higher than Skagstolstind, being 8300 Norsk feet. Excepting the first 35 E. m. by water, the journey must be performed either on horse- back or on foot, but the fatigue will be amply repaid, and the undertaking is not so arduous as to deter any one in good health and of average pedestrian powers. A small supply of food should be taken, but no luggage except what can be stowed away in a knapsack or pair of saddle-bags. * Forsell's Map, In 8 sheets, published at i Stockholm, 1815-1826. J are — Solvorn i Hafslo, 2h by water. Ddsen i Lysfer, 1| by water. Skjolden i Lysier, f by water. From Leirdalsljren to Skjolden, at the head of the Lyster Fjord (which is the extreme N.E. branch of the Sogne Fjord), the scenery is grand and sombre. About 1^ m. before reaching Skjolden on the E. is the Feigum Fos, a fine waterfall, said to be 200 feet. Some distance higher up in the mountains the same stream makes another fall of 700 feet. The Sogne Fjeld. Skjolden, 4f m., by water the whole way. From this station to the N.E., across the Sogne Fjeld to Blaker in Lomb, upon the Vaage Yand, is 8J Norsk m., or 60 Eng. There are two ways from Skjolden, mere horse- tracks, and for many miles steep and of the roughest description; they are both about the same distance. The western passes along the W. bank of the small lake at the head of the Lyster Fjord, and thence up the valley of the Eide Elv, nearly due N.E. But the grandest scenery is upon The Eastern Track, which crosses the river at the head of the Lyster Fjord, and passes by the E. bank of the lake to the village of Fortun, ^ m., and thus far the road is tolerably good. Close here a tributary stream is crossed, which flows from the E. into the Eide Elv, and quitting Fortunsdal, the track follows the right bank of this stream by a very steep and rocky ascent up a wild and romantic valley to Optun, J m. This is a large mountain farm, not a Sseter. The accommodations are rough and in- difierent, but the people civil and obliging. Here a pony and guide can be obtained to cross the moun- tains, but some hours' notice is re- quisite, and on that account it is better to pass the night at this place, Nonuay. route 38. — across the mountains. 197 so that they may be ordered in good time and ready for the journey early next morning. The stage is a long one of 35 Eng. m., and the same pony and guide are taken the whole way to Kvandesvold. The charge for a pony is about 3 sp. d., and the owner, who acts as guide, will ex- pect 1 or 1^ ort for himself. There is no occasion to take a pony for the guide, as the Norwegian moun- taineers are excellent pedestrians. These ponies require no guidance, and, when left to themselves, pick their way amongst the rocks and stones with perfect safety to the rider, thus enabling him with ease and comfort to enjoy the scenery. There is nothing to prevent a good pedestrian from accomplishing the whole distance on foot. I think it would be impossible for a traveller to cross the Sogne Fjeld, for the first time, without a guide ; and certainly it would be highly imprudent to at- tempt it. These mountains are never crossed in winter. The price paid for ponies is fixed, as in other parts of the country, but the charges for them are higher, from the length and difficulty of the stage. On leaving Optun, the path con- tinues very rough and rocky as it ascends the valley, and gradually winds towards the N.E. In about an !B. m. it emerges on the mountains, and the ascent then continues gradual and winding until the summit of the pass is attained. This most grand valley, through its length, divides the range of the Hurungerne (or Hor- Ungerne) Mountains on the S. from those of the Sogne Fjeld upon the N., and about midway up the pass from Optun, the gigantic Skagstdltind is passed on the S. The peaks of this mountain, which form part of the Hor-Ungerne range, are most fan- tastic, like those to the S. of Molde. They are best seen from the summit of the pass, from whence, looking back to the S. and W., the scenery is of the grandest Alpine character. From this point the track continues for many E. miles over a table-land, by numerous lakes and tarns, and amongst rocks and snow. I passed a lake on these mountains on the 1st July still covered with ice. This table-land forms the summit-level of the Sogne Fjeld, and about 3 m. from Optun, still continuing to the N.E., the descent commences, while upon the N. may be seen the Lomh Fjeld, 6830 feet. In about i m. from the commencement of this descent, Ssderen Bscverthun is reached, 3^ m. from Optun, or 25 B,, and the only habitation dui'ing the whole dis- tance. At these two Sseters, or moun- tain dairies, it is essential to halt for the refreshment of the pony and guide. About an hour will be suffi- cient. Some milk, and a seat by the fire, are all the accommodations these Saeters can offer. From hence to the next station at Kvandesvold is IJm. The track soon enters the valley of the Baver Elv, and becomes less rugged. In about J N. m. a fine waterfall is passed a short distance off, on the N.W. I was 13 hours on the way from Optun to Kvandesvold, but this included the delay of an hour at Sseteren Baeverthun. Kvandesvold, 5 m. from Optun. At this station another pony and guide can be obtained ; but to prevent the delay attendant on procuring them, it is advisable, if possible, to take on those from Optun. It will cause no diminution in speed, for these mountaineers and their ponies seem never to tire, and particularly if the former be allowed to ride a short distance occasionally. From Kvandesvold the track con- tinues rugged in places, but is, on the whole, tolerably good, and winds down the valley of the Baver Elv to Hoff, 1 m. Tliis station is at a large farm, and I found the people very obliging and kind. The accom- modations are superior to those at Optun. The path from hence continues 198 ROUTE 39. — CHKISTIANIA TO HAMBURG. NoVWay. down tlie valley of the Baver Elv, tlie scenery of which is picturesque, to Blaker, in Lomb Parish, 1^ m. The station here is good. Blaher to Laurgaard. A carriage-road to the E., along the Vaage Vand, leads to Laurgaard, on the high-road between Christiania and Trondhjem (Koute 26), by these stations, Blaker to Gardmo, IJ ; Sandbo, 1|, by water ; Laurgaard, 2. From Blaker to Romsdalen. Those who desire to make this journey by carriole should go to Sandbo as above, from whence there is a tolerable by- road through Haagenstadt, Slaadalen, and Hatreinsbraen, close to the Hol- seth station in Ete. 30. The Haalangen Fjeld. This Mountain Boute from Blaker to Komsdalen, after the first mile, can only be traversed on foot or on horseback. It is inferior in scenery to that over the Sogne Fjeld. TJie views from the mountains are, how- ever, extremely grand, yet, if the additional fatigue were an object, would scarcely repay those who have crossed tlie Sogne Fjeld. Wild rein- deer are found upon these mountains. To avoid stopping on the road, it will be best, if possible, to hire a pony and guide at Blaker to go the whole way to Holseth, 4 m. A carriage-road from Blaker leads up the valley on the W. to Skeagpr, 1 m., which is a dirty and bad station. From hence a horse-track commences, which soon crosses the Otto Elv, near its junction with the Vaage Vand. A smaller stream is also crossed soon afterwards, and the ascent of the Haalangen Mountains then begins. It is very steep and rocky the whole way up. In about two hours' time the elevated table-land of the field is reached, across which the direction of the path is marked by piles of stones. It is rugged in the extreme the whole way, but a pony goes quite safely over it. After crossing the Otto Elv, the track leads nearly due N. for about half- way over the mountains, until it enters Loordalen. Here the track separates, one branch going N., and entering Romsdalen near the Molmen station. The other leads down Loor- dalen, and, in about an hoiu* after- wards. To Sxteren is reached. These are the first habitations on the way from Skeager, and a halt at them is requisite for the pony and guide. On leaving To Sseteren, the tmck soon enters a pine-forest, through which it continues, and is very ragged nearly all the way to t Holseth, 3 m. This station is on the high-road to Molde (see Rte. 30). Including stoppages, I was 14 hours in going these 3 miles from Skeager to Holseth. — S. G. ROUTE 39. CHRISTIANIA TO HAMBURG, IN WINTER. The usual winter route is from Christiania to Helsiugborg by Got- tenburg (see Rte. 37) ; thence across the Sound to Elsinore, and thence by rail to Korsor. wlience a steamer ,Q:oes to Kiel. From Kiel to Ham- burg by rail in 4 hom-s. Communication is established by steamer and rail from Hambur^: \ Railway, one through train daily in 15 hrs. Altona I Flensburgl Vamdrup I Koldino; j Fredericia I ToStrub Steamer in h hr. across Little Belt (Schlcs- wig to Funen). Middelfart. Odense. Nyborg \ by steamer in 1^ hr. To Korsor / across Great Belt. Copenhagen, rail (see Handbook for Denmark). INDEX. AxVBEL, 117 Aahre, 118 Aak in Roinsdal, 173 Aakhuus, 118 Aakre t'jord, 120 Aalboe, 162 Aalesund, 124, 17 j Excursion to, 124 Aalgaard, 119 Aanerud, 195 Aardal Fjord, 85 Aarfor, 136 ^Vargaard, 151 Aaser), 126 Aastopn, 106 Aavf^trud, loi x\.ccouiit of Norway (Suc- cinct), 41 Aclaiid, Sir Thomas, account of Sneeha^tten, 160 Agershuus, Casile of, 70 Agriculture, 58 Akre, 176 Alfarna^s, 17^ Alfstad Gaard, 170 Alphabet, 19 Alteidet, 141 Alten, 141 Copper-works, 141 River, 141, 148, 184 to Tornea in winter, 181, 182 ■ in summer, 18 j Altengaard, 141 • Alvestronimeu, 121 Andam, 124 Andvord, 157 Angelstad, 117 Angling, 32 Angvik, 125 Antiquities, Christian ia, 69 Arctic Circle, 137 Aremak, 195 Arendal, m, 117, 149 Army, 55 Aronsveen, 155, 170 Arvika, 153, 191 Asvik, 123 Aunet, 168 Aurlands Fjord, 85 Aurora Borealis, Mr.Everest's account of the, 144 Austa River, 176 : Austad, 175 Austbjerg, 162 Avasaxa, 189 Averoen, 125 Axelhuus, 176 B. Baads Vand, 119 Baadsenden, the, 171 Bajkken, 126 Haikkervigeii, 120 Baikkevolti, 176 Bferoen. 139 Bakkegordet, 155 Bakken, in Balholm. 87 Bamble, no Bamlekose, no Bandags Vand, in Bangsund, 129 Bank of Norway, 62 Bath, Russian. 187 Baver Elv, 197 Bear-shooting, 38, 80, 173 Beauclerc, Lady Di, cited, 8, Beavers, 40 Beina Elv, 78, 102 Bellingen Mountain, 176 Bensfjord, 139 Bergan, 105, 178 Berge, in Bkrgex, 92, T20, 121 ; Inns, 92; Post Office, 92 ; Steam- boat Office, 92 ; Trade, 93 ; Churches, 94; Art Union, 94; Museum, 94; Thea- tre, 95 ; Jffigts, 96 ; Far- mer's Wedding, 97 ; Tobac- conists' Shops, 97; Water- men, 97 ; Morning Stars, 97 ; Environs. 97 ; Excur- sions to Sogne and Har- danger Fjords, 98 ; Steam- ers, 151 Bergen 10 Christiania, 99 M(.lde, 121 Berger i Elverum, 176 Bernadotte, 128, 166 Bidder, George, estate of, 154 Bil^t, 195 Binddls Fjord, ij6 Birgis Jerri. 184 Birkrim, 119 BRUSEROD. Bjerkager, 126, 162 Bjerke, 171 Bjerndalen, 105 Bjoberg, 100 Bjorgesund, 105 Bjorkeflaaten, loi Bjornedals Elv, 109 Bjorne Fjord, 121 Bjorngaard, 127 Blaaftaten, 8r Blaaniands Fjeld, 138 Blaker, 196, 198 to Laurgaard, 198 to Romsdalen, 198 Blpyer, 99 Blodekjajr, 117 Boats, 7; payment for, 15 Bodo. 137 Bogen, 175 Bogstad. 73 Bolg^n, 125, 174 Bolkesjo, 106 Boise th, 126 B -Istad Fjord, 91 Bolstadoren, 91 Bondhuus, 89, 90, 99 Borgund, church of, 81 Bone, 115 Borregaard, 192 Borsvolden, 169 Borts Vand, in Bosekop, 14 r, 151, 184 Bosnuten, 108 Botten, 118 Bo vim, 195 Brffikke, in, 117 Brajndhaugen, 158 Braenna, 191 Brandvold, 175 Braskerud, 176 Breakspear, Nicolas, 48 Breden, 157 Bredevangen, 157 Bredheim Vand, 122 Breivik, 118 Bremer's, Miss, Legend of the Marie Stigen, 107 Bremmen Vand, toi Bremund Elv, 171 Brevig. 105, 116 Brevigstrand, n6 Bringsvterd, 117 Broke Fjeld, in. Broste Fje'd. 1 73 Brosternd, 105 Bruserod, 115, 192 200 INDEX. Bue, 119 Bukke Fjord, 120 Bukken, 120 Bustethun, 112, iij By, 126 Bygden Vand, 79, 157 Byggland, 118 By gland Fjord, 118 Bykle, iti, 118 Byklestigen, in c. Canute the Great, 47 C. T. N. cited, 81, 119, 160 Carlshuus, 192 Carlyle, Mr., on the N^orth Cape, 145 Carriages, 4-wheeled, 8, ii, 72 Carrioles, 7, 9, 10, 12, 72 Cathedrals and Churches — Borgund, 81 ; Hitterdal, no; Stavanger, 150; Stor Hammer, 154; Trondhjem, 165 Cattle, 32 Charles XII., 192, 194 Charlton, Dr., description of the Maelstrom by, 135 Christian J V"., 50 CHRrsTiANiA, 67 ; Routes to, 65; Kiel to, 66; Fjord, 66 ; Inns, 67 ; New Palace, 68 ; Storthing House, 68 ; University, 69 ; Collection of Northern Antiquities, 69; National Gallery, 69; Zoological and other Mu- seums, 70; Theatre, 70; Castle of Agershuus, 70; Shops, 71; Carriages, 72; Tea-gardens, 72 ; Society in, 72 ; Environs, 73 ; Steamers, 74 ; Excursions from, 74 Christiania to Bergen, 75, 102 to Bovim, 195 to Christiansand, 114, 148 to Hamburg, 198 to Hammerfest, 114 to Helsingborg, 195 toMolde, 171 to Sarpfos, 74 to Stockholm, 190, 191 to Trondhjem, by va- rious routes, 146, 152, 169, 171, 175, 178 Christiansand, 117, 149 to Stavanger, 118 Christiansund, 125, 162, 174 Climate, 42 Cod fishery, 138 Commerce, 62 EKORNHOL. Commercial marine, 63 > Copper - mines near Valle, III D. Daasnjes, 118 Dahl, 152 Dal, 106, 107 to Bergen, 108 to Kongsberg, 108 Dal Elv, 78 Dale, 91, 122 Fjord, 122 Dalen, 177, 179 Dalseidet, 91 Day-Book (Dagbog), 14 "Devil's Rock," the, 156 Diebsberg, 144 Dillingen, 192 Disset, 176 Dokke Elv, 77 Dombaas, 158 Donnaps, 136 Glacier at, 136 Dosen, 82, 196 Dovre Fjeld, 159 Village, 158 Drammen, 103 to Rands Fjord (Rail) 104 Driv Elv, 161 Drivstuen, 161 Drobak, 66, 148, 191 Dronnings Udsigt, 76 Drontheim, (see Trondhjem) Dvsernses, 174 Dyngo, 149 Dypvik, 115 Education (Public Instruc- tion), 54 Egeberg, Hill of, 72 Egersund, 119, 150 Egge, 105 Eggedals Fjeld, loi Eid, 122 Eid Fjord, 88 Eide, 88, 113, 125, 174 Eider-Duck, habits of the, 174 Eidevig, 122 Eidre Vand, 100 Eldsaeter, 170 Eidsfos Ironworks, 115 Eidsoren, 173 Eidsmld, 152, 170, 171 Constitution House at, Station, 153 Eina Lake, 169 Ekomhol, 179 FINSTAD. Ekre, 79, loi Elden, 129 Eli, 126 Elllngsgaard, 173 Elliott, Mr., on Tellemarken, no Elsaet, 175 Elstad, 155 Eng, 195 Engen, 178 Enger, 104 Engersund, 120 Ernstgruben, 178 Erye Elv, 156 Espedals ironworks, 156 Etnedals Elv, 78 Etnesoen, 120 Eugen, 162 Evanger, 90 Vand, 91 Everest, Mr., on the Aurora Borealis, 145 on Frederiksv^ern, 116 OQ Kongsberg, 104 on the Riukan-fos, 107 Everest's ' Norway ' cited, 89, 137, 174. 195 Expenses of trip to Hapa- randa, 190 Exports, 62 Eyanpaika, the Rapids of, 188 Eye, 119 F^RDEE, 66 Fagernaes, 78 Fahret, 119 Faleidet, 84, 123 Faudrem, 126 Fanebust, 122 Fango, 195 Fanne Fjord, 125, 174 Fare Elv, 170 Farsund, 119 Farvolden, 105 Fedde, 119 Fjord, 119 Fedjos, 86 Feigum Fos, 196 Fem Soe, 194 Fergusson, Mr., on Hitterdal Church, no on Trondhjem Cathedral, 165 Fet, 195 Fieldoen, 120 J'igures and interiors, 31 Fikke, 139 Fille Fjeld, 80 I Finden, 78 J Findoe, 120 j Finkroken, 140 I Finlandic Vocabulary, 188 ' Finstad, 195 INDEX. 201 FINVE. Finve, i^6 Fisheries, 6i Fishing, J2 Fiskuni, 129 Fos, 1 29 Fjaerestrand, 105 Fjeldhoug, 170 Fjelds, 41 Fjeldstuen, 159 Fjcerlands Fjord, 87 Fiords, 36, 41 Flaam, 85 Flaaten, 105 Fladbrod, 6 Fladestad, 195 Fladmark, 17 j Fladsset, 174 Fladseth, 125 Flad Sjo, no Flaekke, 122 Flagstadt, Island of, IJ5 Flekkefjord, 119 Flies and rods, 35 Flodals Elv, no Fogs Aae, 159 Fogstad, 115 Fokstuen, 159 Folda Elv, 159 Foldalen, 177 Folden Fjord, 129, ijS Foldereid, ij6 Folge-fond, Glacier of the, 112 Folgeroen, 120 Fciling, 129 Folseland, 106 Forbord, 127 Forbud, sending, 16 Forde, 122 Fjord, 122 Forests, 60 Forresvig, 120 Forsseth, 125, 170 Fortun, 82, 196 Forvik, 136 Fosbaekken, 177 Fosland, 129 Fosser, in Frederiksgaard, 177 Frederikshald, 194, 195 Excursion from, 194 Frederikstad, 192 Frederiksteen, fortress 194 Frederiksvaern, 114, 149 Frengstad, 177 Frengstuen, 171 Fresvig, 86 Frithiof s Saga, 85 Fritzo ironworks, 149 Frogneraasen, 73 Fronningen, 86 Frydenlund, 78 Fursaeth, 174 Fyldpaa, 115, 192 89. of, GULDHOLSIEN. G. GaldhO-piggen, 82, 157, 196 Game Laws, J9 Gangenass, 120 Garberg, 126 Gardmi), 156, 197 Gargia, 184 Garlid, 162, 177 Garnaes, 92, 168, 181 Garsjo, 170 Gaustad, 171 Gautetun, in, 118 Geiranger Fjord, 113 Geology, 42 Gerrestad Lake, 117 Geyer's ' Histoire de Suede ' cited, 158 Gibostad, 139 Gidskoe, ruins at, 124 Gillundstrand, 171 Gimnjes, 125, 174 Gjsesvaer, 144 Gjellerud, 105 Gjelten, 177, 179 Gjendin Vand, 157 Gjermundshavn, iij Gjcilstad Sund, 175 Gjone, if5 Gjora i Sundal, 162 Grjovig, 75, 77, 99, 100, 170 Glaciers — Just.dal, 8j, 84, 87, 122; Nygaard, 8i; Folge- fond, 89, 112 ; Donnees, ij6 ; Kaagoe, 142 Glittertind, 157 Glommen River, 175, 176 Gool, loi Gousta Fjeld, 76, 108 Government, 52 Goverod, 115 Gr^slid, 168 Gravdalen, 78 Graven, 88 Graver, 106 Gravovne , 162 Greiffenfeld, Count, 115, 167 Grimsbo, 179 Grimstad, 117, 149 Grinagermarken, 77, 155 Grodaas, 123 Gronnen, 170 Gronsdal, 112 Grorud, 152, 179 Groto, 151 Grudt, 162 Grundsast, 175, 176 Grunge Elv, 112 Grytestuen, 100, 170 Gudbrandsdalen, 155 Guddingsbakker, 181 Gudvangen, 86 Gula Elv, 126, 162, 163, 178 Guldbransdal, 155 Guldholmen, 142 HISTORICAL NOTICE. Gulsvig, loi Gumdal, 126 Haalangen Fjeld, 158, 198 Haar, 119 Haarstad, 162 Haarteigen Mountain, 109 Hadelands Glasvasrk, 77 Haeg, 81, 100 to Christiania, 100 Haegeim, 125 Hfegland, 116 Haft Elv, 176 Haftun, loi Hagestad, 113 Hallingdal, loi Hals Fjord, 126 Hamar, 171 Hamburg, 169, 198 Hammer, 129 Hammerfest, 142, 151 to the North Cape, 145 Hammerjold, 173 Hamremoen, loi, 102 Hanestad, 179 Hanevold, 115 Haparanda, 190 HaraldHaarfager,46; burial- place, 120 Haraldstad, 192 Hardanger Fjord, go, 113, 118 Excursion to, 120 Hatvigen, 89, 121 Haugan, 127, 129, 168 Hauge, 119 Haugen, i2j, 170 Haugsund, 104, 105 Haukerwi, 115 Haveland, 122 Havilstadt, 156 Havnik, IJ9 Havosund, 145, 146 Hedals Elv, 156 Hegeland, 118 Hegrestad, 119 Heimdal, 126 Helfos, 117 Helgedal, 79 Helgeci, ruins at, 15^ Helgeraaen, 116 Helleberg, 170 Hellegaard, 195 Hell eland, n^ Bellesylt, 113 Hellingsgaard, 125 Helnffis, 138 Helstad, 124 Helvigen, 121 Hemsedal Elv, 100, 10 1 Hestmands-oen, 137 Hilda), 112 Historical Notice, 45 202 IKDEX. HITTEBDAL. KL^KKEN. LAPLANDERS. Hitterdal, no Industry (Productive), 58 Klar Elv, 176 Church of, no Jndvig Fjord, 113 Kinitpn, 152, 179 Vand. no Inns, 5 Klokkerstuen, 115 Hitteroeii. Island of, 126, 168 Interiors, 31 Knarrestad, 117 Hjellura, 171 Introductory Information, i Kobberdal, 136 Iljerdals Elv, no Isdaal, 122 Kolare, 199 Hjerdkin, or Jerkin, 159 Isse Fjord, 17 j Koloen, 175 Hobberstad, no Istad, 1 251 Kongens Udsigt, 76 Hof, 154 Kongsberg, 102, 103, 104, 115 Hoff, 197 silver-mine at, 104 Hogdal, 19? J. to Numedal, 105 Holager, 172 jfiO Skien, 105 Holand, 195 jAJfSGAAKD, 108, III to the Riukun-fos, 105 Hole, n,- Jardbluelv, 137 Kongsvinger, 175, 179, 190 Hollelarid, 119' Jarlsberg, 115 Kong,>vold, 161 HoUerud, 105 Jedeckejaure Lakd, 187 Kopervik, 120 Holme, 128 Jorkin, 159, 177, 179 Kopstand, 106 Holmen, 165, 170 Jolster Vand, 122 Korpikula, 190 Holmestrand, 115 Jondalsoren, 113 Korsen, 128 Holmrydningen, 176 JonsdalElv, 106 Korsmo, 179 Holseth, 172, 198 Jonsknuden, 104 Korsodegaarden, 171, 175 Hols Fj.Td, 104 Jordbra^kke, 118 Kosthveit, 108 Holtf, 126 Jotumfjeld, 79 Kostijl, 117 Holz Fjord, 76 Judeberget. 120 Krabberod, 192 Home, 129 Jukas-jervi, 189 Kra?mmerbakken, 155, 169 Homsmoen, 118 Juskpngis, 189 Kra^mmermoen, 78 Honefob, 76, 78, 102, 105 Justedal, Glaciers of the, 82, Krageroe, 116, 149 Honstad, 1:6 84, 122 Kringelen, 157 Hopseidet, 142 Mountains, 82. 122 Kniderpn Fjord, 10 1 Horj?m, 17? Routes from, 83 Kroghaugen, 177, 179 Hornelu Cliff, 148 Justice, S5 Krogkleven, 76, 102 Homingdalsrokken, 12,' Krograd, 195 Horningdals Vand, 12 j Krona, loi, 105 Horn vi gen, 145 K. Kukhola, 190 Horre, 112 Kvjenangen Fjord, 140 Horsand, 171, 17:; Kaagoe, Glacier of, 142 Kvasns, 141 Horses, Payaient for, 18 Kaaberbergs Elv, 109 Kvaloe, Island of, IJ9, 14; Horten, 115, 148, 192 Kaldan, 195 Kvan, 126 Hor-Ungorne Mountains, 197 Kalstad, 126, 162 Kvandesvold, 197 Route to the, 82 Karasjok, 142, 186 Kvello, 168 Horvig, 122 Kardis, 189 Kvisberg, 170 Houg, 195 Karesuando, 187 Hongpsund, 120 Karlso, 140 Houglifjeld, 112 Kattegat, 66 Houmb, 175 Kautx)keino, 184, 186 L. Hov, 178 Keel-fos, 87 Hoyland, the robber, 70 Kengis Bruk, 189 Ladne-jaure, 185 Hrolf Gangr, Castle of, 124 Kexisvara, 189 Laing's • Norway ' cited, 127, Humledal, 76 Kiel to Christiania, 66 138, 154, 158, 160. 165, 180 Hund Elv, 170 Kierringo, 13S ' Sweden ' cited, 72, 191 Hundven, 122 Kihiangi, 189 Lakps — Bandagsvand, in; Hunkki, 189 Kiilstrommen, 121 Micisen, 153 ; Oresund, 178 Hunne-fos, i?5 Kile Fjord, 118 Landscape, 30 Huse, II?, 121 Kirkebo, 86 Landvig, 117 Husum, 81 Kirkenasr, 175 Langeland, 86, 122 Hvidenaes, 120 Kirkremo, 177 Langesund, 116 Hyls Fjord, 120 Kirkvold, 168, 178 Lang Fjeld, 12 j, 172 Kittelsrud, 77 Fjord, 141, 173 Kjaer, 115 Langledet, 178 I. Kjelden, 178 Langoe, Island of, 116 Kjplvik, 142. 145, 146 Langseth, 126 Ice Teade, 62 Kjolodegaard, 195 Language, 19 Idde P'jord, 194 Kjonaas, 105 Lanner, 116 Imports, 59, 6j Kjosebunden, 123 Laplanders, Mr. Miliord's Imse Elv, 176 Klaekken, 76 visit to the, 130 INDEX. 203 I. LAPLANDERS. Laplanders, dress of. 182 mode of travelling, 182 Lanp encampments, ijo, ij8, 140 Lai oro-fos, 105 Larsbraaten, 195 I^aurgaard, 198 Jiaurvig, 109. 115, 149 ]jiiuven River, 104, 149 Leckiifes, 120 Leer, 165 Leervig, 122 I^eir Elv, 103 I^eirdals Klv, 80 Leirdalsoren, 82, 8j to Bergen, 85, 12 1 to Komsdalen, 196 Lekanger, 87 Leko, Island of, 136 Lekvold, 168 Lemmings, 40 Lesje Jernv^rk, 172 Vand, 159 Vaerks Vand, 172 Levanger, 127, 168, 180 Lian, 191 Lien, 71;, 77, 99, 100 Lierfossen, 168 Lillefloren, 127 Lillthammer, 155, 154, 170, 171 Lillesand, 117, 149 Lille Steensrud, 19? Lillestrom Stat., 15J, 179 Lillestuen, iii Listad, 156 Literature, &c., 63 Liverud, 105 Ljoen, 124 Lodals-Kaabe Mountain, 83 Loffoden Islands, 134, 138 Lofthuus, iij Logen Elv, 154, 155, 170 Lomb Fjeld, 197 Lone, 92 Longrel, 88 Loimemoen, in Lonsait, 125, 174 Loppen, 142 Losna Vand, 155 LJJssffit, 176 Tx>stegaard, loi Lovaasen, 176 Ijovo, 138 Luggage-cart, 12 Lund, 179 Lunde, 119 i Holt, 117 Lundesogna Elv, 163 Lundhagen, 169 Luroso, i?7 Lyngdals Elv, 119 Lynge Vand, 119 Lyngen, 184 Fjord, 140 MOSSEBO. Lyngholmen, 120 Lyster Fjord, 85 Lysthuus, 105, 106, no Maan Elv, 105, 107 Mailandsmo, 108 Ma^len, 168, 181 Maelstrom, 135 Ma^raker Hytte, 127 Mage roe, 145 Magnord, 191 Malangen Fjord, 139 Mandal, 119 Manufactures, 62 Marie Stigen, legend of, 107 Marine, 31 Mariosara, 189 Maristuen, 80 Masi, ruined church of, 185 Matarengi, 1 89 Matt re Fjord, 120 Measures, 4 Meelhuus, 163 Melby, 175 Mesne Vand, 171 Midland, 119 Midtogopen, 191 Midtvedt, 112 Millord's * Norway' cited, ,.^-^' ^'^'^ Minde, 152, 171 Mineralogy, 42 Mines, 6r ; Kongsberg, 104; Valle, III ; Alten, 141 ; Roraas, 177 Miosen Lake, 15 j Mjos Vand, 79, 108 Mo, 176 Modes of Travelling, 4 Moe, 126 Elv, 171 Moen, 106, III, 156, 157 Moensund, 105 Mogen, 105, III Moi, 119 Molde, 125, 174 Fjord, 174 to Trondbjem, 125 Molmen, 172 Money, Weights, a??d Mea- sures, 3 Monge-fos, 173 Mons Elv, 139 Morang Fjord, 89 Morast, 191 Morkfos, 8?. Morstu, 171 Mosberg, in Mosby, 1 1 8 Moskena^s, 135 Mosquitoes. 186 Moss, 148, 192 Mossebo, 108, no NEBSTEEN. Mosterhavn, 120 Mostol, 118 Mountains — Gousta Fjeld, 76, 108 ; Jotum Fjeld, 78 ; Fille Fjeld, 80; Skngstol- tind, 82, 160, 196; Galdho- X')iggen, 82, 196; Justedal, 82, i2j; Lodals-Kaabe, 83; Normandsjokeln, 88 ; Skogshorn, 100; Eggedals Fjeld, loi; Jonsknuden, IC4; Tessung Fjeld, 109; Haarteigen, 109; Broke Fjeld, in; HougliQeld, 112; Solfond Nup, 112; Steens Fjeld, 122; Lang Fjeld, 12?; Skole, 125; Seven Sisters, 136; Sulit- jelma, ij8; Glittertind, 157; Rundane, 158; Haa- langen Fjeld, 158; Dovrc Field, 159; Sneehffitten, 160; Broste Fjeld, 173; Romsdals Horn, 173; TrolUinderne, 173; Bel- lingen, 176; Trons Fjeld, 177. 179; Nuppi Vara, T84; Sogne Fjeld, 196; Hor-Ungerne Mountains, 197 ; Lomb Fjeld, 197 Moxa Elv, 155 Munkholra, Fortress of, 167 Muonio River, 188 Rapids, 188 Mnonioalushta, 189 Muonioniska, 187 Muoniovara, 187 Museums : Bergen, 95 ; Trondbjem, 167 Mustad, 77, 99, 100 Myklemyr, 82 Mysberget, 176 N. N^s, Toi, 117, 168, 176, 1(^0 Nasse, 122 Ngesmoen, 78 Naasvold, 178 Njeverdal, 177 Namsen Fjord, 129 River, 129 to Hammerfest, 134 Namsos, 129, 151 Navy, 56 Neby, 160, 162, 177, 179 Nedre Aasoren, 157 Brandvold, 156 Hauge, 195 Sardven, 121 Nedrevasenden, 122 Neiden Elv, 146 Nero Fjord, 86 Nersteen, 117 204 INDEX. NEKSTKAAD. Nerstraad, 120 Nidaros, 164 Nid Elv, 149, 164, 166 Niemio, 189 Nordal, 104 Norderhoug, 102 Nordgaarden i Sillejord, no Nordre Aaset, 176 Holm, 177 ' Rolstad, 176 ' Sand, 77 Skeie, no Slqerve, 127 Snerle, 156 Nord Sjo, 105, 116 Normaudsjokeln, 88 JSTormands Laagen, 109 North CapCy 145 Nos, 78 Notice, 64 Niippi Vara, 184 Nygaard Glacier, 8^ Ny-(iyelleba3k, 103 Ny-Ovne, 161 Nysted, 119 Nystuen, 80, 157, 162 0. Odberg, 115 Odde, 112, 121 Oddenees, Church of, 150 Oddero, Island of, 150 Odegaarden, 115, 176 Oduses, 77 Oengen, 176 Ofte, III, 118 Oftestu, 121 01, III Oie, 125 (Men, 156 Oiestad, 192, 194 Oiloe, 79 Olaf, St., birthplace of, 156 ; death of, 128; shrine of, ..166 Olen, 120 Fjord, 120 Olfernses, 120 Opaker, 179 Opdal, 161, 162 Ophuustuen, 176 Oppegaarden, 102 Opstrja Vand, 8j, 84 Optun, 157, 196 Oresund Lake, 178 Orething, 167 Orkedalsoren, 126 Orkla Elv, 126, 177 Ormem, 172 Osboigd Elv, 109 Oscar's Hall, 73 QVINNA ELV. Ose, 118 Osloe. 68 Oster Fjord, 122 Osterdalen Route, 175 Osteriisoer, 117 Osteroen, Island of, 91 Ostre, 115 Bagholm, 120 7: — Malmoen, 178 Ostud-fos, 89, 113 Ostvand, 177, 179 Ostvig, 129 Otta Elv, 157, 198 Otter Eiver, no, 141 Ougendal, 119 Ous Elv, 179 Ouse Fjord, 85 Ousoren, 121 Outer Sogne Fjord, 85 Overgaard, 129 Ovne, 162 Ovrebo, 115 Ovrehuus, 90 Ovrevasenden, 122 P^KKiLA, 190 Palajoensnra, 187 Paradise Hill, 97 Parkajoki, 189 Passports, 4 Pasvig Elv, 146 Pello, 189 People, 57 Pictures, collections of— Christiania, 69 ; Bergen, 94 Population, 44 Porsgrund, 105, 116 Posting Regulations, 12 Prasstegaarden, 10 1 Prsesthuus, 162 Press, the, S5 Productive Industry, 58 Prugra Elv, 137 Public Instruction, 54 Pulk, or Sledge, 172 QUJENBERGSUND, lO^ Qualviig, IJ5 Quamso, 86 QvfBllo, 168 Qvam, 129 Church of, 156 Qvammen, 126 Qvinna Elv, 119 Raaland, 108 Rafte Sund, 1 54 Railways, 6 ; Christiania to Eidsvold, 15 J ; Hamar to Grrundstet, 175 Ramsvig, 120 Rands Fjord, 77 Ranen Elv, 136 Rauma Elv, 172 Ree, 119 Reed, 122 Reen Elv, 176 Refsland, 119 Reien, 78 Reiersdal, 118 Reinaa, 127 Reindeer travelling, 182 Reisen Elv, 140 Religion, 54 Relingden, 124 Rembiedals-fos, 89 Rena Elv, 177 Rennisoe, L^land of, 120 Repvaag, 146 Requisites for travelling, 9 Revaa, 115 Revenue, 56 Rige, 118 Riis, 191 Fjord, 145 Ringebo, Church of, 156 ' Bingedals-fos, 113 Rii.geriget, 76 Ringsaker. Church of, 154 Rise, 161 Risoer, 149 Rissen, 168 Riukan-fos, 107 to the Voring-fos, 109 Rivers, subterranean, 137 Rod, 117 Rodenses, 195 Rodland, 122 Rods, flies, &c., 3$ Rodset, 124 Rodsheim, 156, 157 Rodven Fjord, 173 Roldal, 112, 118, 120 Rollo, Duke of Normandy, Castle of, 124 Rolsaet, 168 Rommundgaard, 156, 157 i Romsdalen, 172 I Romsdals-fjord, 172 I Romsdals-horn, 173 Roneid, 82 Ronholt, 116 Ronningen, 168 Ror Fjord, in Roraas, 177 Rorvig, 119 Rosendal, 99, 112 Roseth, 173 INDEX. 205 EOSHEIM. Rosheim, 82 Roske, 128 Rostad, 105 Ros Vand, in Routes from England, 2 RundalsElv, 87, 90 Rundane Mountains, 158 Ruskola, 189 Russian frontier, 190 Rusten, Pass of, 158 Rutledal, 122 Ryg, 129 Ryssestad, 118 ' S. Sandtroen, 177 S. C. cited, 8i, 198 Saebo, 88 Saelbo Lake, 168 Saem, 105 Saervold, 121 Saeter Aae, 158 Saeteren Beverthun, 197 Sseters, 32, 83, 197 Saetersdal, 118 Salaup Fjord, 1 25 Salhuus, 136 Salmis, 190 Salmon, 33 Salmon-fishing, 32 ; Tana, 33, 142; Hardanger Fjord, 90 ; Topdals Elv, 117 ; Namsen, 129, 133 ; Alten, 141 ; Sun- dal, 162; Gula Elv, 162; Trondhjem, 168; Rauma Elv, 172 Salten Fjord, 138 Strom, 138 Saltnses, 138 Saitnsessanden, 126 Sand, ic6 Sandboe, 158, 198 Sande, 86 Sandefjord, 115, 149 Sanden, 106 Sandfarbuus, 127 Sands Fjord, 120 Sandtorvholm, 139 Sandven Vand, 1 1 2 Sandvigen, 75, 103, 168, 181 Sandvik, 113 Sannossoen, 136 Sarp-fos, 193 Sarpsborg, 192 Scenery and Sketching, 29 Schee i Land, 77 Schj erven, 115 Sea-beach, 140 Season for travelling in Norway, 29 SeidElv, 156 Selerstad, 136 Seljestad, 112, T2o Seliiovik, 137 SOGNE. Sem, 129 Senjen, Island of, 139 Senum, 118 Seven Sisters Mountains, 136 Sevle-fos, 87 Seyland, 144, 185 Sfondre Sund i Land, 77 Shooting, 36 Siaberdasjok, 184 Simonstad, in Sinclair, Colonel, account of, 157. 17^ Siri Elv, 119 Sirnajs, 119 Sis Fjord, 173 Skaar, 122 Skagerack, 66 Skagstiiltind, 82, 160, 196, 197 Skangs Elv, 108, no Skare, 112 Skeager, 198 Skei, 122 Skeiene, 119 Skejergehavn, 122 Skeleton Routes, vii Sketching, 30 Skien, 105, no, 115, 116 Skjseggestad, 156 Skjailbro Fjeld, 170 Skjerven, 115 Skjervo, 140 Skjgeddal Fos, 113 Skjolden, 82, 196 Skjonne, 105 Skodsberg, 195 Skofien, 78 Skogshom, 100 Skogstad, 79 Skoien, 77, 99, 100 Skole, 125 Skotgaarden, 178 Skrimstad, 152, 179 Skydts Law, 13 Skyttie-fos, 89 Sledge, I82 Slettebo, 119 Sliper, 162 Slottet, 115 Slyngstad, 124 Smedevig, 120 Smedshammer, 77 Smestad, 171 Smorvig, 170 Snaasen Vand, 129 Snarum Elv, 104 Sneehaetten, 82 Excursion to, 160 Snerle, 157 Soboden, 105 Sogaarden, 105 Soggendal, 119 Sogne Fjeld, 84, 87, 196 Fjord, 84, 85 — — Excursion to, 121 STORSVEAN. Sogne River, 1 19 Sognedals Elv, 102 Sognedalsfiajren, 84 Sognefaist, 122 Sogstad, Runic obelisk at, 170 Sbholt, 124, 173 Soknaes, 162 Solfond Nup, 112 Solheim, 157 Sollerod, 115 SoUesnaes, 174 Solum i Brunlanaes, 116 Solvorn, 82, 196 Somdalen, 78 Sonstevold, 170 Sopnaes, 141 Sor Fjord, 112 Scirby, 115 Surholte, 171 Soro Sund, 142 Sor Russevaag, 139 Sorte, 124, 173 Sorteberg, loi Sorum, 78 Siivik, 136 Spillum, 129, 151 Spirillen, 78 Spitzbergen trade, 143 Stalheim, 87 Stangvik, 126 Stathelle, 116 Statistics, 45 Stavanger, 119, 150 to Bergen, 120 to Hardanger Fjord, 120 Steamers, 2, 6 (Inland), 7 Stee, 79 Steene, 122 Steenkjger, 128, 129 Steens Fjeld, 122 Fjord, 76 Steensdal Foss, Steensoen, 136 Steilo, 134 Stein, 176, 179 Stiklestad, 128, 180 Battle of, 128 Carl Johan's visit to, 1 28 Stjernffis, 105 Stoen, 177 Stok Elv, 170 Stokke, 78, 100 railway stat., 163 Stor Elv, 170 Stor Fjord, 124, 172 Stor Hammer, 154 Stor So, 175 Soen, 176 Stordals Elv, 127 Storen, Railway to Trond- hjem, 162 Storfale, 162 Storklevestad, 156 Storsvean, 78 206 IInDEX. STOETHING. Storthing, 52 Stot, ij7 Straengen, iii Strand, i?6 Strande, 78, n4 Fjord, -ja, 121 Stromraen, 105, 128 Stuedal, 168 Stueflaaten, 172 Succinct Account of Nor- way, 41 Suledals Vand, iii Sulitjelma, i?8 Sulstuen. 168 Sun at midnight, 140, 145 Snndals l^^lv, 125, 162 Siindalsuren, 125, 126, 162 Sundbye, 179 Sundeli. iii Sundfjord, 121 Sundvolden, 76 Sura Klv, 126 Surendal, 126 Surendd'soren, 126 Suulstuen, 180 Svjprholt, 142 Svalestad, 119 Svanais, 119 Svart Elv, no, 171 Svartebsek, 123 Svee, 157 Svelvig. 115 Svendses, 152, 170 Svennesund, 105 Svinaer, i?7 Swerroberg, 163 Swlnesund, 194, 195 Sylte, 124 Sysscndal, 88 Systad, 122 Taaning, 84, 123 Taarvik 125 Talvik, 141 Tana Elv, 142, 186 Taylor, Mr. Bayard, on the North Cape, 145 Finlandic Vocabu- lary, 188 Teigcn, i63 Telegraph stations, 64 Tellemarken, 102 Teraak, i?6 Teroen, 98. 99 Tessung Fjeld, 109 Teterud. 169 Theatres, 64 ; Christiania, 70 ; Bergen, 95 ; Trondlijem, 158 Thingelstad, 77, 169 Thot-n, 158 Threnen, Islands of, 137 TVETE VAND. Thronstad, 12 j Tind, village of, IC9 Sji), 106, 109 Tingvold Fjord, 12? Tinnss, 105, 106, 112 Tinoset, 106, no TjcTelde, 17 j Tjernagelen, 120 Tjomsland, 119 Tjotoe, Island of, 136 Tofsland, 112 Toft, 170 Toftemoen, 158 Togstad. 171 Tolgen, 177 Tomlevolden, 78 Tonden Klv, 177, 179 Timsberg, 115 Topdals Elv, 117 Torghatten, 136 TorneS,, 190 River, 189 Torrisdals Elv, 117 Tortola, 189 Torvig, 173 To Steteren, 198 Totak Vand, 108 Trade, internal, 62 foreign, 62 Trseet, 120 Travelling, requisites for, 9 Troldtinderne, 173 TroUhattan Falls, 191, 195 Troms Elv, 156 Tromsdal, 140 Tromso, 139 Trondenaes, Church of, 139 Tkondhjem, 163 ; Inns, 163 ; Post Office, 163; British Vice-Consul, 163 ; Shops, 164; Nidaros, 164; Na- tional Bank, 164; Cathe- dral, 165; Arsenal, 166; Museum, 167 ; Theatre, 167 ; Trade, 167 ; Envi- rons, 167; Salmon Fish- ing, 168 ; Excursions from, 168 ; Steamers, 168, 169 Trondhjem Fjord, 163 to Hammerfest, 134, 151 to Stockholm, 179 to the Namsen, 126 Trons Fjpld, 177, 179 Tronvigen, 192 Trout fishing, 35 Trygstad, 152 Try 8 Fjord, 119 Tue Fjord, 145 Tuff, 100 Tune, 79 Tvede, 117 Tvedestrand, 117 Tvedtsund, in Tvete Vand, 112 VESTEE ASHER. Tveten. 115 Tvinden, 87 Tvisaet, in Tyen Vand, 79, 157 Tyri Fjord, 76 Tyvand, 116 Ubebgmoen, in Uddue, 168 Udgaarden, 116 Udhuus, 168 Udvig, 123 Ugjestebye, 195 ] Ulefos, 105 Ulen F:1v, 157 Ulfs Fjord, 140 Ullensvang, 106 Ulvik. 88 Ulvoen, 1 34 University at Christiania, 69 Urland, 85 Utne, 89,98, 113 Utnedal, 79 Utza Vand, 80 Vaage Vand, 158 Vaags Fjord, 123 Vaalen Elv, 156 Vaarstige, 161 Vadheim, 86 Vadso, 146 Vaara River, 128, 180 Vaerdal, 128 Mr. Laing's description of, 180 Vaerdals Fjord, 127, 128; Vaeroe, 135 Vahlen, 121 Valle, in Valleys, 42 Vallo, 149 Salt-works at, 115 Vangna^s, 85 Vangs Fjord, 87 Varanger Fjord, 146 Vardohuus, 146 Vasenden, 88 Vatne, 1 19 Vatnedal, 118 Veblungsna^set, 173 Vefsen River, 136 Veglie Elv, 156 Vehme i Norderhuus. 102 Veisteen, 170 Vemundvik, 136 Venemaa Elv, 112 Vest Fjord, 1 34, 1^9 Vestgaard, 176, 179 Vestnses, 125, 17? Vestre Asher, 10 j 207 YETTIE GIELEN. Vettie Gieleri, 85 Vials Elv, 102 Vie, 129 Vigedalsoren, 112, 120 Vigeland, 119 Vigen, 168 Viig, 157 Vik, 76, 88, 98, 102, II J Vikeland Fos, 150 Vikor, 89, 90, Hi Villa Klv, 162 Vingna^s, 170 Vinje, 87 . Vand, III Vinaes, 115 Vinstra Elv, 161 Visadal, 157 Vismund Elv, 170 Visnjes, 123 Vister, 195 Viuls P]lv, 76 WATEEFALLS. Vocabulary, 22 Volden, 115 VoUan, 162, 178 Volu Lake, 159 Von Buch on the Egeberg Hill, 7 J Vordal, 127 Vo/ivg-fos, 87, 88, 109 Vormen Elv, 152, 171 Vossevangen, 87, 98 to Bergen, 90 w. W. E. C. N.'s MS. Journal cited, 154 W. H. R.'s MS. Journal cited, 89 Waterfalls, 31 ; Hi3ne-fos, 76, 78, 102, 105 ; Keel-fos, 87 ; YTTERBOL. Morkfos, 85 ; Sevle-fos, 87 ; Voiing-Jos, 88, 89, 107 ; Skyttie-lot>, 89; Rcmbie- dals-fos, 89; Ostud-fos, 89, 113 ; Larbrolos, 106 ; Hiukan-fos, jot ; Skjseg- gedals-los, 113; Helios, 117, 150 ; Fiskum-fos, 129 ; Hunne-fos, 155; Lier-fos, 168 ; Sarp-fos, 192 ; Fei- gum-fos, 196 WeiKhts and Measures, 4 West Fjord, 145 Westgaard, 195 Wolves, attack by, 79 Wrongs Elv, 191 Y. YTTEBnOL, 195 THE END. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND OirARING CROSS. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS SWEDEN. {^Sweden.'} CONTENTS. .'<<> '%, .^. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 'V" SECT, ' PACrft ' 1. Money, Measures, Weights 2 2. Passports and Quarantine 4 3. Modes of Travelling : Inn 4 4. Requisites for Travelling 5 5. Railways, Steamers, Posting Regulations 6 6. Electric Telegraph 10 7. Swedish Vocabulary and Dialogues 11 8. Scenery 16 9. Angling 16 10. Shooting, and Game Laws 17 11. Succinct Account of Sweden 18 12. Historical Notice 21 18. Government 28 14. The Royal Family. The People 32 15. Productive Industry 34 16. Commerce and Navigation 36 17. Literature, &c 37 18. Churches 37 19. Canals 38 20. Postal Service 38 21. Tours in Sweden 39 ROUTES. *:„* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where they are described. ROVTR PAGE ; ROUTE PAGE 62. London to Stockholm n« Ham- Carlstad and Arvika — Rail- burg, Copenhagen, and Elsi- way 83 nore, or direct to Gothen- . 68. Stockholm to Malmoy by Jon- burg . . . . 46 63. Copenhagen to Gothenburg . . 48 64. Stockholm 50 65. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by Railway 69 66. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by the Gotha Canal, Lakes Ma- lar, Wenetm, and Wettern — Falls of Trolhdttan . . . . 75 67. Stockholm to Christiania, bv hoping, Wexio, Christian- stad, Ystad, Helsingborg, and Lund 85 69. Stockholm to Christianstadt, along the coast by Norr- koping, Caltnar, and Carls- krona 94 70. Helsingborg, along the West Coast to Halimtad, Gothen- burg, and Fredrikshald . . 99 IV CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 71. Gothenburg to Trolhattan, Wenersborg, and Carlstad, by Land 102 72. Stockholm to Falun, by Wes- terns 104 73. Stockholm to Falun, by Smed- jebacken 106 74. Stockholm to Upsala (Rail), the Dannemora Iron MineSy Gefle, the Copper MiTies at Faluriy and the Porphyry Works at Elfdal in Dale- car lia (by Steamer or Rail) 107 75. Stockholm to Trqndhjem, by Sundswall and Ostersund ., 119 ROUTE PAGE 76. St. Petersburg to Stockholm 121 77. Stockholm to 6rehro and ad- jacent Mining Districts .. 122 78. TJddervalla to Norrkoping, by Jonkoping and Linkoping .. 124 79. Stockholm to Wisby and the Island of Gotland . . . . 128 80. Stralsund, Stettin, or Lubeck, to Malmo or Stockholm . . 131 81. Stockholm to Haparanda^ by Gefle, Luled, and Torned, by Land, and by Steamer up the Baltic 132 82. Lulea to Quickjock (Lapland) 139 SWEDEN. INTRODUCTOKY INFORMATION. Mo7iey, Measures, Weights. — 2. Passports and Quarantine. — 3. Ilodes of Travelling; Inns. — 4. Requisites for Travelling. — 5. Raihuays, Steamers, Posting Regulations. —6. Electric Telegraph. — 7. Swedish Vo- cabulary and Dialogues. — 8. Scenery. — 9. Angling.— 10. Shooting and Game Laws. — 11. Succinct Account of Sweden, — 12. Historical Notice. — 13. Government. — 14. The Royal Family. The People, — 15. Pro- ductive Industry. — 16. Commerce and Navigation. — 17. Literature, (fee— 18. Churches.— I'd. Canals.^20. Postal Service.— 21. Tours in Sweden, ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 62. London to Stockholm via Ham- burg, Copenhagen and Elsi- nore, or direct to Gothenburg 63. Copenhagen to 6^o^/i6n6Mr^ 64. Stochhohn 65. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by Eailway 66. Stockholm to Gothenburg, by the Gotha Canal. Lakes Ma- lar, Wenern, and Wettern — Falls of Trollhdttan . . 67. Stockholm to Christiania, by Carlstad and Arvika — Railway 68. Stockholm to Malmo, by Jon- koping, Wexio, Christianstad, Ystad, Helsinghorg, and Lund 69. Stockholm to Christianstadt, along the coast, by Norrkop- ing, Calmar, and Carlskrona 70. Helsingborg, along the West Coast, to Halmstad, Gothen- burg, and Fredrikshald 71. Gothenburg to Trollhattan, Wenersborg, and Carlstad, by Land .. [Sweden.l 75 83 85 94 99 102 ROUTE PAGE 72. Stockholm to Falun, by Westerns 104 73. Stockholm to Falun, by Smedje- hacken .. ' .. .. 106 74. Stockholm to Upsala (Rail), the Dannemora Iron Mines, Gefle, the Copper Mines at Falun, and the Forphyry Works at Elfdal in Dalecarlia — By Steamer or Eail .. .. 107 75. Stockholm to Trondhjem, by Sundswall and Oster-sund .. 119 76 St. Petersburg to Stockholm .. 121 77. Stockholm to Orehro and adja- cent Mining Districts .. 122 78. Uddervalla. to Norrkoping, by Jonkoping and Xm^opm^r .. 124 79. Stockholm to Wisby and the Island of Gotland .. ..128 80. Stralsund, Stettin, or Lubeck, to Malmo or Stockholm .. 131 81. Stockholm to Haparanda, by Gejle, Luled, and Torned—hy Land, and by Steamer up the Baltic 132 82. LuleS, to Quickjock (Lapland) 139 2 § 1. MONEY. — MEASURES. — WEIGHTS. SlVedeU, § 1. Money, Measures, Weights. The currrency is very simple, consisting of rixdollars and ores: 100 ores = 1 rixdollar, 18 rixdollars = £1 sterling. The exchange is, however, generally a little below 18 dollars to the pound sterling. The dollars are in paper currency, those in common "use being for 1, 5, 10, 20, and 100 dollars ; the ores are in silver and copper — silver pieces of 10, 25, and 50 ores, and copper of 1, 2, and 5 ores. The decimal system was adopted in the year 1854, and from and after the year 1863 the former varied, and somewhat intricate denominations and divisions of money, measures, and weights, ceased to be legally applicable, although many of them are still, from the force of habit, made use of by the country people. The Rihsdollar Riksmynt is the unit of the monetary system, subdivided into 100 parts called oere, and in which, as a rule, all accounts are kept. This riksdollar corresponds in value to the ancient Bihsdollar Biksgeld^ which was composed of 48 shillings ; among the lower orders this kind of counting is frequently employed and easily computed, 2 oere being taken for 1 skilling, 25 oere for 12 skil lings, and so on. ThiB Speciedollar, which still occurs in the coinage, is equal to 4 riksdoUars riksmynt. In ready-money transactions pajoer currency is almost exclusively em- ployed, except for small change. The Bank of Sweden issues notes of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 riksdollars riksmynt, all on coloured paper and different in size ; the two lowest denominations being small, the three following larger and square, the two highest larger still and oblong. These notes, being at any time convertible into corresponding amounts of specie at the bank, have a fixed value, and are generally taken in prefer- ence to silver, as more handy and equally secure. Travellers should be careful not to receive any notes of the old currency (these were all printed on white paper) as the seven years during which they were exchanged at the bank expired in 1863, and although it is believed that some scattered hoards of them remain about the country, they are no longer of any value. There are numerous provincial banks in Sweden having the privilege of issuing notes of 5, 10, 50, and 100 riksdollars riksmynt, all of which are likewise printed on coloured paper, and circulate as freely as the notes of the State bank. The coinage consists of gold, silver, and copper, but except at the banks, the higher denominations are not often met with. The ducat, equal to 9 riksdollars, corresponds in size and value to half-a-sovereign ; the carolin, of recent invention, worth 7i riksdollars, is meant as the equivalent of a 10 franc piece. Silver, the standard of the currency, is struck in pieces of 1 riksdollar, 50, 25, and 10 oere riksmynt, all containing 75 per cent of '' Sweden. § 1, MONET. — MEASUBES. — WEIGHTS. the pure metal ; the new copper coins represent 5, 2, and 1 oere. A considerable proportion of the old coinage also remains in circulation : the speciedollar = 4 riksdollars riksmynt, half a specie = 2 riksd. rmt., a quarter of a specie =1 riksd. rmt., an eighth of a specie (24 skillings riksgeld) =50 oere, a sixteenth of a specie (12 skillings riksgeld)=25 oere ; besides a variety of old copper coins in banco, each skilling of which equals 3 oere. Danish and Norwegian silver money may be exchanged in the large towns in Sweden at a small discount. When travelling in the country it is convenient to be provided with a good supply of copper, as well as plenty of small silver and paper money, as change is difficult to obtain out of the towns. Any amount of small change can be procured, without charge, at the bank at Stockholm — and with this advanta^re, the notes will be clean and new. The peasants and country people dislike old and worn paper. The exchanges are regulated principally by quotations on Hamburg, London, and Paris; and drafts on these places, against good letters of credit, are readily negociated at Stockholm and Gothenburg, where bank- notes may likewise be changed without difficulty. The English traveller will find it most convenient, however, to provide himself with circular notes of credit, say for lOZ. each, furnished by some one of the leading banks in London, and accompanied by a letter of indication, which at the same time can serve him as an introduction to the respectable firms by which his notes are cashed, without any deduction and at the current exchange of the day ; this being in Sweden about 18 riksdollars for the pound sterling. At this rate, the following table represents the equivalents of current Swedish notes and coins in English monev : — Notes. Coin. Riksmynt. £. s. d. Riksmynt, £. s, d. 1 Riksdollar . 1 n 10 Oere .... . IJ 5 ,, 5 6§ 25 ,, GV^pPcie) . . 3^ 10 , , 11 1;^ 50 , , (^ Specie) . . 6f 50 ,, 2 15 6f 1 Riksdollar {\ Specie) .0111 100 ,, 5 11 1^ 2 ,, (i Specie) . 2 2| 500 , , 27 15 6§ 4 , , (] Specie) . 4 5-1 1000 , , 55 11 1^ 1 Ducat (gold) . . . 10 Measures. — One Swedish ft. =0*974 English, is divided into 10 in. of 10 lines each ; 10 ft. make a pole, 10 poles a chain (re/), and 360 chains, or 36,000 ft. 1 Swedish mile =6 miles, 5 furlongs, 40 yds. English. A measure of 2 ft. constitutes an ell. In the square, 1 Swedish mile com- prises 44 English ; while 32 Swedish tunnland, of 67,000 sq. ft. each, are equal to 39 English acres. The measure of contents has the cubic ft. as S2 4: § 2. PASSPORTS.— § 3. MODES OF TRAVELLING. Sweden. unit, divided into 10 cans of 100 cubic in. each. Formerly, grain and similar substances were measured by barrels of 8 fjerdings, or 32 kappars each, and the can of liquids was subdivided into 2 stop, 4 half stop, 8 quarts, or 3^ gills (jungfrur). Weights. — The many different weights formerly in use in Sweden, are at present (with the exception of apothecaries' and jewellers' weights) reduced to a uniform system, having the ancient victual pound, equal to 0*93 lb. avoirdupois, for unit. The pound is subdivided into 100 or^ of 100 korn, or grain, each. 100 lbs. make a centner, and 100 centner a new last. The old divisions of the pound into 32 lod of 4 qvintins, as well as the denomination of a lispound for a weight of 20 lbs, are still partially in use. An English ton of 20 cwt. would correspond to 24 Swedish centner. § 2. Passports and Quarantine. Passports are entirely abolished in Sweden ; quarantine for passengers from foreign parts nearly so. The officers of health, on ascertaining that all is well on board the vessel, admit her at once to free pratique. Should any suspicious case of death have occurred during the voyage, the captain is bound to report the circumstance to the first official who boards the vessel when she approaches the shore, and a quarantine of observation may then be imposed of a few days, only extended^ in the event of fresh con- tagious cases breaking out on board. § 3. Modes of Travelling. Inns. Almost all the travelling is either by rail or steamer. The 1st class rail, carriages are very comfortable, but the long halts at each station are very trying, and there are very few trains in the day. The steamers are invariably strong and well-appointed, with comfortable cabins and good food ; they run in every direction, and either the captain or some of the crew are sure to speak English. To the English traveller the Swedes are particularly kind and obliging, warm-hearted and ready to help in every period of difficulty, often refus- ing any payment for services rendered, and seldom or never trying to over- reach, or defraud. The cleanliness of all classes is proverbial, no insect-powder will ever be needed ; and even in the most out-of-the-way stations, the r(X)ms, bedding, and furniture are beautifully clean. Their cuisine is more suitable to the English taste than that of the Ger- man. The Smbrgos, or preparatory nip of spirits with dried fish, scraped meat, or cheese, can be omitted, as the succeeding meal will be found suffi- cient without it. The claret is good, and the Bavarian beer brewed ir Stockholm much to be commended. Sweden, § 4. requisites for travelling. 5 As regards cost, both of travelling and living, Sweden compares most advantageously with other countries, and the bill even at Rydberg's Hotel in Stockholm will be much less than in any corresponding hotel in Europe. Railways and steamboats carry travellers in every direction. Should the tour be extended to the less frequented routes, it would be better not to purchase a carriage, but to take advantage of the best vehicle the posting station affords, generally an old-fashioned gig on springs, made to carry two people with a little luggage, and well^fitted for the heavy sandy roads so often met with. A pound of good English tea, and a few tins of pre- served meats, will be found useful, as there is often only fish, coffee, and eggs to be had at the posting stations. The hotels and inns are generally good. Dinner, how^ever, can only be obtained in the restaurant attached to the hotel, which it is usual to pay for, together with a trifle for the waiter, at the time. The bill for bed, breakfast, tea, attendance, &c., &c., will be presented every morning for verification, but payment is not expected until the time of departure. § 4. Requisites for Travelling. As a rule, the less luggage, the more comfort in travelling ; and as a pleasure trip to Sweden should only be undertaken in the summer season, a moderate wardrobe will suffice. Only, as the temperature is variable and the nights sometimes come on very cold, it is advisable to be provided with warm wrappers or overcoats for use during night-journeys. Toilet requisites should not be forgotten, as in many places they are difficult to procure of good quality, and a portable india-rubber bath will be found a great luxury. For shooting and walking, stout, easy-fitting boots and shoes, double soles clamped by means of screws, and without iron heels, are essential, and can nowhere he jprocured so good as in England, The sportsman will naturally bring with him his own guns and fisliing-tacMe, and shetching materials ought likewise to be brought over from England. A tourist's telescope, coloured spectacles to protect the eyes against sun- glare and dust, writing-case, adhesive labels, or pieces of parchment for writing directions, a strong leather bag to hold coins for small change, and a pocket portfoho for paper-money, are all of constant use to the traveller in Sweden. A leather strap to secure the wrappers, and a carpet-bag or small valise to contain the more immediate necessaries, will be found handy in the railway-carriage, or in the small cabin of a steamer, when larger packages are stowed away with the luggage. If there be any intention of visiting Lapland in July or August, veils must be provided to protect the face from the mosquitoes ; none of the so- called " Patent Preservatives," will be of the slightest use. The veil, made 6 § 5. RAILWAYS. Sweden. of fine bobbin net, should be long enough, after being tied round the hat, for the other end to tuck into the waistcoat, and a thin wire should be run in about the level of the nose, to keep it well off the face. The Lapp boots, made of reindeer-skin (price about 6s.), will be found far preferable to any English boot for travelling in Lapland ; they can be purchased at Lulea, or any of the northern towns. § 5. Railways, Steamers. Posting Eegulations. Bailways at present extend over distances measuring together 160 Swedish, or 1060 English miles, comprising the following lines ; — L Government Railways: — Swed. miles. Western Trunk line, from Stockholm to Gothenburg, with branches to Orebro and Sodertelge, together . ... 45 Southern Trunk line, from Falkoping on the "Western line to Malmo 35-6 Northern Trunk line, from Stockholm to Upsala . . . . 6*1 Eastern Trunk line, from Catherineholm on the Western line to Norrkoping 4*5 North-western Trunk line, from Laxa on the Western line to the frontier of Norway (thence continued to Christiania) . 9 '5 In all . .100-7 II. Private Railways: — a. In communication with the Government lines : Orebro — Arboga — Nora 7*2 Boras — Herrljunga 4*0 Uddevalia — Wenersborg — Herrljunga 8*4 Wexio— Alfvesta 1*7 Christianstad — Hessleholm 2*8 Eslof — Landskrona — Helsingborg . .• 5*6 Ystad— Eslof 7-1 6. Not in communication with the Government lines : Gefle— Falun 8*6 Wessman — Barken 1*5 Norberg — Amanningen 1*6 Koping — Uttersberg 3*4 Christinehamn — Sjoandan 1*1 Clarelfven— Fryken 0*8 Ammeberg 1*1 Atvidaberg 1*0 Marma — Sandarne j | .... 0*9 Sodeihamn— Bergvik I in Helsingland | .... 1*5 Hudiksvall — Forssa ) ( .... 1*1 In all . . 59*4 Sweden, § 5. RAILWAYS. STEAMERS. "besides 17 lines of tramways for horse- traction, measuring together Sy^ miles, and several extension and other lines, projected or in course of construction. Trains do not run very frequently ; fast passenger- trains travel at the rate of 25 English miles an hour, including stoppages. On the long lines, stations are assigned for breakfast and dinner, where hot and cold dishes in abundance wait the arrivals of the trains, and each pas- senger helps himself, ad libitum, for the small charge of one riksdollar, exclusive of drinks. Spirits cannot be obtained at the stations. At each station where the train stops, the guard calls out the name of the place and how many minutes to stop. The carriages are commodious, very much like those of recent construction on the railways in England ; in each of them are posted printed instructions for passengers. Ticket-offices open at an hour and close at five minutes before the departure of each train. Tickets are marked at the baggage-room and packages labelled with numbers and address, of which the owner receives a duplicate. First and second class passengers are allowed 70 lbs., third-class passengers 50 lbs of luggage. Anything beyond that pays for extra weight. Children under 3 years, when occupying the same place as an accompanying grown-up person, are admitted free ; children between 3 and 12 years are charged half fare, and allowed half the corresponding weight of luggage ; for dogs (which must be muzzled) the charge is one-half of third-class fare. Tickets must be shown to the railway officials whenever asked for. Complaints may be made to any station-master, or noted down in a book kept for that purpose at the station, but the officials will almost invariably be found civil and obliging. Eailway time is regulated, all over the country, by the time at Gothen- burg, which is found by adding so many minutes to the local time, at each of the undermentioned principal stations, viz. : — minutes. minutes. Alfvesta . . 10 Herrljunga . . 4 Alingsas . 2 Hessleholm . . 7 Cathrinehohn . 17 Hor . . . . 6 Christinehamn . 9 Jonkoping . . 9 Elmhult . . 9 Lamhult . . . 10 Falkoping . 6 Laxa . . . 11 Finnerodja . 10 Lund . . . 5 Forsemm . . 10 Malmo . . . . 4 Gnesta . . 21 Norrk oping . . 17 Hallsberg . . 13 Nassjo . . . . 11 Skofde . , Sparreholm Stockholm , Sodertelge Toreboda Upsala . Wingaker Wretstorp Orebro . Oitofta minutes. 8 19 24 23 9 23 16 12 13 5 to make such local time correspond with the time-tables. Steamers. — Nearly 200 steamers, large and small, carry passengers between places along the extensive coasts of Sweden, on its numerous lakes, rivers, and canals, and to and from the ports of surrounding countries. Sweden is peculiarly adapted for steam navigation, and it is rapidly 8 § 5. STEAMERS. — POSTING REGULATIONS. Sweden, aiding to develop tlie resources of the country. All the captains of these vessels speak English, and those belonging to the Govern- ment, as well as several others, are commanded by officers in the Eoyal Navy. The fares are very reasonable ; the cuisine good, and cheap in proportion. Great attention is paid to cleanliness and the comfort of passengers, and the officers are obliging and attentive. The routes, in almost all instances, are regular, but it should be remembered that the steamers* days of sailing are often altered, as the days shorten or lengthen, and travellers are warned to trust to none but the latest pubUshed lists or advertisements. This Handbook can do little more than point out the lines of communication, as they exist, by land and water. For more detailed and recent information on these particulars, the traveller must be referred to the time-tables published from time to time during his sojourn in the country. The daily newspaper Nya Dagligt AJleJianda, and a weekly paper called Sveriges Kommunikationer, both published in Stockholm at 10 oere each number, contain ample and reliable information in respect of railways and steamers ; the latter is sold at most of the rail- way stations. Still more comprehensive as a reference is Vdgvisaren for Resande i Sverige (Guide for Travellers in Sweden), sold at 1 riksdoUar by all the principal booksellers, and republished periodically, which contains the latest time-tables for steamers, railways, and stage-coaches, with fares, distances between the different stations, and other useful particulars ; also posting-routes on the principal highways, specifying by the abbreviation Ent. the stations where posting is provided by contract, and indicating in foot-notes the best places for taking meals and for sleeping accommodation, &c. A good travelling-map of Sweden by T. A. v. Mentzer, showing rail- way and telegraph lines, with their stations, post-offices, posting-stations, and a variety of other noteworthy places, is published by P. A. Huldberg of Stockholm at 4^ riksdollars, on canvas, and sold by most booksellers. Posting regulations. — Horses are provided for accommodation of travel- lers, at the different stations, either by contracts or by relays. Under the first of these arrangements, which are numerous and on the increase, the posting-master undertakes to supply the horses himself, and little delay is experienced ; in the latter cases, horses are furnished by relays from the peasant farmers of the surrounding districts. These relays are brought in to the station at eventide, and if quickly disposed of, succeeding travellers may have to await the arrival of next evening's relay, or at any rate the time necessary to send out, in the mean time, for the number he requires, unless the horses have been ordered beforehand. To effect this precaution it is necessary to send " Forbud," that is, a messenger in advance with written requisitions, forms of which can be purchased in most towns. The cost of sending a forbud is the same as a one-horse fare for the distance ; Sweden, § §. POSTIJtG REGULATIONS. d and the horses so ordered must be paid for, whether the traveller eventu- ally uses them or takes another route. In some cases, the forbud-papers can be sent by post or by telegraph, and the traveller should always keep a memorandum of the orders sent, and the hours for which his horses have been required. Owing to the improved modes of travelling, however, the expedient of sending forbud is now rarely resorted to, at least in the middle and south of Sweden. The rates of posting vary according to the class of station from which departure takes place, and are in each case regulated down to -^^ of a Swedish mile ; thus the payment for every horse is — From Stockholm From contract From contract station From relay Distance. station in in country station kj IJ\/V IV U V^ L U A « town. or relay iu town. in country. rh Mile . Edr. Oere. Rdr. Oere, Rdr. j Oere. Rdr. Oere. 07 05 04 03 TS » » 10 08 06 05 i », 20 15 13 10 \ ,, 40 30 25 20 1 •2 M 80 60 50 40 1 ,, 1 60 20 00 80 W, ,, 1 67 25 04 83 llB - 1 70 28 06 85 n , . . 1 80 35 13 90 H ,, 2 00 50 25 1 00 1;\ ,, 2 40 80 50 1 20 9 3 20 2 40 2 00 1 60 and so on. At Stockholm, horses must be ordered six hours before they are wanted, and a booking charge paid of 10 oere in the daytime, and 15 oere if the order is left after 10 p.m. A common cart from thence is charged 10 oere ; with back to the seat, 25 oere; a wagon with spring seat for two horses, 50 oere, per mile. Horses may be kept waiting one hour, without any additional charge. Beyond that time, the person who has ordered them must pay 50 oere for each horse during the second and third hour, and 90 oere for every hour succeeding. If the horses are countermanded after arrival, the postilion receives 85 oere for each horse in compensation. At all other posting-stations the charges are : — for a common cart, 3 oere ; for a cart with a spring seat, or a two-horse wagon, 6 oere ; for a two-horse waggon with a spring seat, 13 oere ; for a saddle or harness, 3 oere, all per mile. If a saddle-horse is used, 19 oere per mile additional is charged for fetching the animal back again. For every hour a horse is kept waiting beyond the first, 25 oere has to be paid, but after B 3 10 § 6. ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH. Sweden, waiting 4 hours tlie postboy may take his cattle home again. All tolls on the road are paid by the traveller. Only one person, besides the postboy, must be carried by a single horse ; the postboy is always to be allowed a seat, but if two persons, each with a single horse and cart, travel together, they may jointly occupy one vehicle, the postboy driving the other. 2 horses carry 3 persons, 3 horses 4 persons, and 4 horses in the same team 6 persons. A saddle-horse must not carry more than 40 lbs. besides the rider, and the maximum load for every draught-horse is not to exceed 4 centner, including the traveller's own weight, but not the carriage. As to speed, an hour and a half is allowed for every mile, and although the traveller has the right of himself driving, he must be careful not to injure horses or wagon in so doing, as it may cause detention and other inconveniences. The posting-masters have considerable powers vested in them for protecting the owners of the horses, as well as those who order them, and may refuse fresh horses to travellers until any damages for which they may be liable have been compensated ; postboys, on the other hand, are subject to fine if demanding or receiving more than their proper fare. At each station a daybook (dagbok) is kept, in which travellers have to enter their names and occupations, &c., and the number of horses taken to the next station ; this book contains all the posting regulations, with the distances upon each stage, and the sum to be paid for each horse. Complaints are sometimes inserted in this book, but should be made in moderation, and not without good cause, as they may lead to serious punishments when the book, according to established X^ractice, comes under the inspection of the proper authorities. Mail-coaches, having accommodation for a limited number of passengers, run regularly over some 30 different routes, varying in length from 4 to 22 Swedish miles, and connecting most of the principal places in the country, from Falun in the north, to Carlskrona, and Helsingborg in the south. From some towns they start every day, from others on certain days of the week. Their speed is by no means extraordinary, but they are at any rate, preferable to posting. Fares generally, 1 riksdollar the mile. Travellers intending to make use of this mode of conveyance should secure their places at the earliest opportunity. § 6. Electric Telegraph. The telegraph is in much more common use than in England ; the wires ramify in every direction as far north as Lapland. The traveller will find it of the greatest service in ordering rooms at hotels, berths in steamers, or in sending forbud for horses, &c., &c. The charge is 1 rixdollar for 20 words in Sweden. „ 7 „ 92 oe. for 20 words to England. „ 1 „ 80 „ „ Denmark. , 2 „ 16 „ „ Prussia or Norway. Sweden, § lO. shooting and game laws. 17 Laliolm, are renowned for their salmon, but the water there, suitable for ano-ling, is limited in extent and is private property. On the E. coast of Sweden there are also many salmon rivers, especially to the north of Stock- holm, where several large watercourses flow into the Gulf of Bothnia. These salmon do not take the fly so readily as in other countries, but very few of the rivers have been thoroughly tested, though it has been placed beyond doubt that they will take both fly and phantom at the Edefors rapid on the Lulea river (see Route 82), where the fishing is perfectly free. They run up to a very large size, and their flavour is not to be excelled. Char are plentiful in many lakes, and trout and grayling abound in every mountain stream, running up to 8 and 9 lbs. in weight in the Lulea (see Route 82), taking almost any fly most greedily. Trout, in the AVenern lake, attain an enormous size, 30 lbs. weight and upwards. The streams falling into this lake afford good fishing. The trout in the Lake Wettern also attain a great weight. The Dalecarlian rivers are highly spoken of. Char, in the mountain lakes, take the fly well; and pike, perch, with various other kinds of fresh-water fish, are caught in most parts of the country. As regards the best time for fishing in Sweden — in the S. the rivers are usually in a fit state about the middle or end of May ; in the N. they are at least one month later, and in the Lulea the end of August. See also Observations on Angling, in Handbook for Norway j])2iVtici\[2iYly as to flies and other tackle, which equally apply to Sweden. § 10. Shooting and Game Law^s. The sportsman will find ample employment for his gun in Sweden, espe- cially along the ridge of mountains on the Norwegian frontier, and the country between the rivers Clar and Dal. Norrland also abounds in all kinds of game, indigenous to the climate. In the middle and south of Sweden, the quantity, during many years, showed a gradual falling off ; but since the introduction of the new game laws a perceptible increase has again been made manifest. Quickjock in Lapland (see Route 82) is particularly recommended, where in September a bag of 100 ptarmigan, besides willow-grouse and hares have been known to fall to a single gun. Here game of all kinds, wildfowl, and even bears, are met with within a few hours' walk of most comfortable quarters. No tents or camping out being necessary. Any one may shoot over the vast tracts of forest and other lands, which have not been appropriated for private or public use, under the following restrictions, applicable to all hunting-grounds, not specially enclosed : — Mks may not be hunted from 1st October to 10th August. Beavers may not be hunted from 1st November to 10th July. < 18 § 11. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF SWEDEN. Sweden, Fartridges and grouse from 1st November to 10th August. Swans, wild ducks, eider geese, and snipes, from 16th. March to 10th July. Beer, red deer, wild reindeer, hares, woodcocJcs, hlacJccocks, hazel^Jiens, ptarmigans, from I6th March to 10th August. Owners of enclosed preserves, whether belonging to the Crown or to pri- vate persons, may shoot or permit shooting in the same, of all kinds of game at all times of the year. Poaching, whether in preserves or open grounds, is punishable with fines from 50 to 300 riksdollars, and in some cases with imprisonment, up to the term of 6 months. Hunting during prohibited terms is punishable with fines from 10 to 100 riksdollars. The person who apprehends such offender, may take posssssion of his gun and other hunting-gear, his dogs and game, until judicial sentence shall have been passed. Bears, wolves, lynxes, foxes, gluttons, martens, otters, seals, eagles, eagle- owls, hawks, and falcons, may be shot at all times of the year in places where hunting is permitted, and rewards can be claimed on proof of the animal being killed, amounting to 50 rdr. for a bear, 25 rdr. for a wolf or a lynx, 10 rdr. for a glutton, 3 rdr. for a fox, eagle, or eagle owl, and 2 rdr. for a hawk or falcon. Bears are now becoming rare in Sweden ; elks, wild deer of all kinds, and beavers still more so. § 11. Succinct Account of Sweden. Deprived of Finland, Pomerania, &:c., the Swedish territories are now comprised in the eastern side of the Scandinavian peninsula and several islands in the Baltic, the chief of which are Oland and Gotland ; the latter is large and highly interesting from the numerous churches of the 11th and 12th centuries which it contains (see Ete. 79). The extreme length of Sweden is about 930 Eng. m., by an average width of 190 ; with the islands, its area is about 170,700 Eng. sq. m. Sweden is divided into 3 principal regions : Norrland, which comprises Gefle and all the provinces to the N. of that up to the Torne§, ; Sweden proper, which includes the central provinces ; and Gothland, those in theS. The Scandinavian peninsula rises gradually from the W. coast of the Baltic and Gulf of Bothnia, until it reaches its highest elevation in the great mountain chain, which, for a long distance, divides Sweden from Norway. Upon the whole, and particularly in the southern parts of Sweden, § 11. lakes and eivers. 19 Sweden, it is a level country ; there are, however, numerous ranges of high ground and detached hills of considerable elevation. The highest point in Sweden does not exceed 6350 feet, and this is only in the mountains upon the frontier of Norway. The southern provinces consist for the most part of sandy plains, interspersed with numerous lakes and hills. The central region contains extensive plateaux of table-land, with large tracts of forest. The N. part is mountainous, with deep valleys, vast forests, and sandy wastes. " From North Cape to the southward and east, the Lapland highlands are a system spreading to the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, which, in con- nection wdth the high mountain chain of Scandinavia, once formed a great island, the Scanza of Jornandes ; the Gulf of Bothnia and White Sea being connected as late as 1450, by the Kitkacerva, and probably also by the Ulea lakes. At the summit of the Gulf of Bothnia, it had long been ob- served that the sea was retiring by slow degrees, not so much from the effects of fresh-water deposits, as by a progressive rising of the submarine floor; for many outlying rocks — known from ancient times by distinct names, and sung in Kunic ballads for being the basking-bed of seals, where daring hunters acquired celebrity in their pursuit — had risen above water beyond the reach of their ancient visitors ; parts of the gulf, which half a century before had been crossed in boats by the French academicians, were converted into permanent-meadow land ; and more minute research dis- closed at a distance inland successive lines of beach, each provided with a bed of shells in a very recent state. From these the sea had evidently re- ceded, according to the changes which an upheaving motion of the land, proceeding from the north, effected on the levels ; and corresponding raised beaches have since been observed by M. Bravais, on the opposite declivity of the Lapland system, near Alten, which show, by being at a greater ele- vation, the acting forces to be most powerful on the Polar side. In 1700, with a view of settling the question, copper bolts were driven in several rocks at the mean sea-level; and subsequent investigation substantiates that the rising progress is greatest in the north, being at the summit of the Gulf of Bothnia at the rate of 4^ feet in a century ; decreasing to one foot at Stockholm ; and on the German shore of the Baltic at 0, or as we think decHning. These researches were carried out by Davis, Hellant, Cydenius, Klingius, Eudman, &c. ; they terminated in 1827. Several French philo- sophers have made later researches and confirmed the progress. See Elie de Beaumont, Mem. Acad, des Sciences de Paris." — Nat Hist, of the Human Species, by Lieut.-Col. C. H. Smith, p. 55. Lakes and Rivers. — The peculiar feature in Swedish scenery is the extent and number of the lakes in the S. and central parts, Of these, the Wenern and the Wettem are the largest ; the former is upwards of 90 Eng. m. in 20 § 11. GEOLOGY. — MINEUALOGY. — FORESTS. — CLIMATE. SwedcU. length, and the latter 86. The Millar Lake, which adjoins Stockholm, is also of great extent. The whole of these lakes, with several smaller ones, are inclnded in the routes. In the central and Northern parts there are several considerable rivers. Of these, the largest are the Dal, Kte. 72, the Indal, Angerman, Umea, Pitea, Lulea, and Tornea, whose lengths average from 230 to 290 Eng. m. All these rivers rise in the mountains, and in their course form numerous grand f[ills and cataracts. Oeology. — Granite and gneiss are the prevailing rocks, particularly the former ; gneiss being much less abimdant in Sweden than in Norway. Mica-slate is also very common, and contains the greater number of me- talliferous beds met with in Sweden. It often alternates with vast beds of primitive limestone, quartz, &c. These, with a few others, form the pri- mitive rocks. The transition include conglomerate and sandstone, with transition porphyry, limestone, and trap. The secondary comprise second- ary sandstone and chalk. Extensive tertiary and alluvial deposits also occur. Mineralogy. — Sweden is particularly rich in her mineral products. Of these her mines of copper and of iron are the most productive and cele- brated. Some of the largest are included in Kte. 74. The porphyry quarries at Elfdal, upon the same Route, are remarkable for the number and beauty of the specimens found there. Cobalt, zinc, lead, silver, gold, &c., are likewise met with in Sweden. Marble quarries have been opened at different places. Coal has only been discovered in the S. ; the old mine near Helsingborg is of very inferior quality, but lately fresh coalfields of a more promising description have been found in another part of the same province. The Forests of Sweden cover 4-7ths of the whole surface of the countr3^ These are chiefly of pine and fir ; but in the N. the birch grows in great abundance. In the centre the pine and fir are interm.ixed with ash, willow, linden, and maple ; and in the S. with oak, beech, yoke-elm, &c. ■ The Climate, from the great extent of the country, of course varies con- siderably. Upon the whole it is less mild than those parts of Norway which in the same latitude lie upon the western side of the great Scandi- navian chain of mountains. In the N. the whole surface of the country is covered with snow and ice for five or six months in the year, and even in the central and southern parts the lakes and rivers are frozen as late as April. Vegetation bursts forth so rapidly in the spring, that the snow has scarcely disappeared before the great variety of Scandinavian flowers appear in all their loveliness. For this reason the month of May is the most delightful in the S. and centre of Sweden. The weather, both in summer and winter, is steadier than in England. The mean annual tem- perature at Stockholm is 41*93'^ Fahr. ; during the 6 winter months 29*4° Sweden. § 12. historical notice. 21 The warm summers, and cold but dry winters, are very enjoyable. At Stockholm the longest day is 18^ h., and the shortest nearly 6. The Population, according to the census of 1865, was 4,114,140 ; an in- crease of 472,540 in 10 years. § 12. Historical Notice. There are four great periods in Swedish history : first, during the Pagan age, from the earliest times to the end of the 10th century ; 2nd, from the establishment of Christianity as the religion of the country, in the com- mencement of the 11th century, to the accession of Gustavus Wasa in 1523 ; 3rd, her glorious age under the Wasa dynasty, and their immediate suc- cessors, to the battle of Pultawa, in 1709 ; and, 4th, from that time to the present. The early history of Sweden is even more obscure than that of Norway or Denmark. Scandinavia generally is noticed by Pliny, Tacitus, and other authors of high antiquity ; but the most authentic records which exist re- specting it appear to be those compiled in the 12th century by Saxo Gram- maticus, in Denmark, and Snorro Sturleson in Iceland. These latter, and other sources, show that the leading historical event of interest in the early history of Sweden, was the migration there of the Sviar, or Swedes, under Odin. This is supposed to have taken place at no distant period antecedent to the invasion of England by the Saxons. These Sviar were a part of the great Gothic tribe who had long before settled in the S. part of the country. The empire founded by Odin in Sweden was originally confined to a small territory around the Millar Lake, of which he made Sigtuna the capital. There he caused temples to be erected, and sac- rifices to be offered at stated periods. Thence his authority and his worship ultimately became established, and the Sviar, as the leading tribe, governed by the pontiff kings, the immediate descendants of Odin, gradually acquired an ascendancy over the Goths who inhabited the S. of Sweden, but who long remained a separate people, electing their own kings. Odin was a conqueror, a king, a priest, a lawgiver, and an adept in the superstitious practices of his age. Endued with commanding talents and boundless ambition, he availed himself of the veneration in which he was held, and attributed his power to the peculiar favour of the gods, from whom he boasted of his descent. Esteemed as the god of war, his worship finally prevailed throughout the N. of Europe. The various traditions of the Scandinavians as to their religion during the Pagan ages, of the creation of the universe, and of their mythology, have been carefully collected and preserved in the Sagas which exist, by Snorro Sturleson and others, and are of great interest. Kiord succeeded Odin, 22 § 12. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Sweden, as prophet, priest, and king, and was followed by Ms son, Freyer, who removed his capital from Sigtuna to Upsala, where he built a temple, which became the most celebrated spot for Pagan worship in the North. Freyer's surname of Yngve became the proudest distinctions of his descendants, who were thenceforth called Ynglingar, The dynasty of this sacred race, as it is called, ended with Olaf Trsetelia, who, upon the invasion of Sweden by Ivar Yidfamne, left the country, about a.d. 630, and laid the foundation of a new power in Norway. But very few members of the dynasty of the Ynglings died a natural death. Most of them fell in battle, or by their own hands, or were murdered by their subjects ; and one of them, Domald, was sacrificed on Odin's altar, to propitiate the gods in a year of famine. Upon the conquest of Sweden by Ivar, he united in himself the crowns of that kingdom as well as of Gothland and Denmark. He was also of Odin's race, being descended from Skjold, whose seat was in Zealand. The dynasty of the Skjoldungs, founded in Sweden by Ivar, continued to pre- vail throughout the rest of the Pagan age, and even beyond it, to the middle of the 11th century. Throughout this period the people appear to have been continually engaged in piratical expeditions, and in war with each other or the neighbouring States. Christianity appears to have been first openly preached in Sweden by St, Ansgar, during the reign of Bjorn I., in the 9th century ; but the long line of Sweden' s Pagan kings only terminated with Eric the Victorious, who is said to have himself at one time embraced Christianity. His son and suc- cessor Olaf, surnamed Skotkonung (^Laphing), because he was proclaimed king elect while yet a baby on his mother's lap, became the first Christian sovereign, having been publicly baptized at Husaby in Westgothland by St. Sigfrid from England, about the year a.d. 1000, after which he changed the regal title of Upsala king to that of king of Sweden. During his reign many churches were built and three bishoprics established, and from that time Sweden may be regarded as a Christian state, although paganism still lingered in the country for a long time afterwards. During nearly the whole of the first three centuries of the Christian era in Sweden, continued disputes and warfare arose between the Swedes and Goths for the possession of the supreme authority. These disensions ulti- mately terminated in favour of the Swedes, whose sovereigns assumed the title which is in use at the present time — " King of the Swedes and Goths." During the regency of Birger Jarl, which commenced in 1250, Stockholm was founded and fortified, the written laws of the kingdom revised, and the internal administration greatly improved. Sweden's greatest king during the Middle ages was Magnus I., who reigned 15 years, from 1275. Prior to his accession the country had been continually distracted by intestine commotions, and the despotic conduct of the nobles was most oppressive Sweden. § 12. histobical notice. 23 upon the peasants. His wisdom, firmness, and justice enabled him to crush these disorders, and to bestow upon his subjects the blessings of tranquillity and order. During the reign of his successor, Birger, his able and patriotic minister, Thorkil, caused a law to be passed against the sale of slaves, on the ground that it was in the highest degree criminal for Christians to sell men whom Christ had redeemed by his blood. This noble truth Sweden has the immortal honour of having promulgated and established in the early- part of the 14th centurj^ ; a truth which was not practically recognised in England with respect to the Negro race for upwards of 400 years after- wards. The dissensions which again distracted the country after the death of Magnus, finally terminated in 1389 by the defeat and capture of the Swedish king, Albert, and the crown of the Swedes and Goths being united with those of Denmark and Norway upon the brow of Margaret, known as the Semiramis of the North. It was, however, not until several years after this event that all Sweden was finally reduced to her sway. In 1397 she convoked the States, and caused the celebrated compact to be entered into between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, known as the Treaty of Calmar. The leading objects were — to maintain the union in perpetuity of the three kingdoms under one sceptre ; to preclude either of them from making war upon the other ; and to form an alliance defensive and oftensive in the event of war with any foreign power. Margaret was succeeded, in 1412, by Eric of Pomerania, who married Philippa, daughter of Henry IV. of Eng- land. During the king's absence in Sweden she heroically and successfully defended Copenhagen, when besieged in 1428. The Union of Calmar was maintained with difficulty for little more than a century ; the flames of discord which arose from it in Sweden were for a moment quenched in the blood of numbers of her most illustrious citizens, who were massacred by the orders of Christian II., under circumstances of the greatest treachery and barbarity. Amongst the slain was Eric Wasa, a senator, and of an ancient family in Sweden. But his son, Gustavus Ericson Wasa, lived to avenge his father's blood and his own wrongs; and, by his courage and commanding talents, to found a new dynasty. After incurring the greatest dangers and hardships in Dalecarlia, he at length succeeded in rousing the people to take arms against their oppressors, and under his guidance the Danes were finally driven out in 1523. At a meeting of the States in the same year he was elected king, and with that election terminated the fatal Union of Calmar. The accession of Gustavus Wasa to the throne formed a new era of the highest importance in the history of Sweden. The leading feature in the records of the country throughout the Middle Ages, was the frequent struggles of the people to regain that power and influence which their ancestors had enjoyed under the free institutions of the Pagan age ; and 24 § 12. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Siceden. which had been gradually encroached upon b}^ the nobles, the clergy, and the crown. Gustavus owed his elevation to the people. The power and influence of the nobles and of the clergy, and the great wealth of the latter, were amongst the first objects to command his attention. Policy, and also conviction, speedily made him a convert to the doctrines of Luther; and at a convocation of the States in 1527, after exposing the abuses of the Romish Church, he succeeded in obtaining an act which, in effect, abolished the Eoman Catholic as the national faith, as it gave the crown unUmited power over the church and its property. At one blow Gustavus swept away two-thirds of her revenues, most of which he annexed to the crown, or distributed amongst his supporters and the nobles whom it was his interest to conciliate. In 1529 the States formally declared the Romish faith to be abolished, and that the Lutheran should become the established religion of the country. Thenceforth the whole efforts of Gustavus were directed to the consolidation of his power ; and while his extraordinary ability and industry enabled him to develop the resources of the country to an astonishing extent, he at the same time crushed all opposition as it arose, and eventually succeeded in establishing a despotism unexampled in the annals of the nation. In 1544 he prevailed on the States to decree the crown hereditary in his family. He was thrice married, and died in 1560, in his 76th year. He was buried in the cathe- dral at Upsala, and his memory is held in the greatest veneration by the Swedes as the founder of the most glorious period of their history. Gustavus was succeeded by his eldest son, Eric XIV., who was alike wanting in the courage and abilities of his father. After soliciting the hands of our Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, a Princess of Lorraine, and also of Hesse, he ended his matrimonial projects by marrying his mistress, who was the daughter of a peasant. His stormy and cruel reign was terminated in 1568, when he was deposed by his brother John, and by whose orders he was finally made to swallow poison, after an imprisonment of ten years. During the reign of John unsuccessful efforts were made by him to induce the people to return to the Romish faith. He married Catherine, the daughter of Sigismund II. of Poland. Their son, Sigismund, became King of Poland, and he, upon the death of John in 1592, also inherited the crown of Sweden. By his own imprudence in attempting to force the Romish faith upon the people, and the stern opposition of his uncle Charles, his short reign of eight years was terminated in 1600, by the States renouncing their allegiance to the king, and he and his descendants became excluded from the crown. Sigismund was succeeded by his uncle, Charles IX., the youngest son of Gustavus Wasa, and in many respects like his great father: an able, though severe ruler, zealous in promoting Sweden. § 12. historical notice. 25 industry and commerce, and bravely defending his country against her enemies. Keverses in a war with Denmark accelerated his death, which took place in 1611. To his son and successor, Gustavus II., usually known as Gustavus i^dolphus, and grandson of Gustavus Wasa, it was reserved to raise the martial glory of Sweden to a point it had never before attained. Elevated to the throne at the early age of 18, but gifted with principles, firmness, and military genius of the highest order, he speedily attracted the attention of all Europe. Victorious alike in Denmark, Poland, and Russia, in 1628 he was invited by Protestant Europe to place himself at its head, in order to arrest the vast scheme of Austria, to restore the Papal supremacy throughout Christendom. His career of glory justified their choice, and it only terminated with his death at the battle of Lutzen in 1632. Gustavus was succeeded by his infant daughter, Christina, then only six years old ; but the high political and military position which their late adored king had enabled them to take was nobly maintained by the gallant Swedes, under the able statesmen and generals who had been brought up in his school. The Thirty Years' War was at length terminated by the peace of Westphalia in 1648. That treaty was most glorious for Sweden, whom the war had raised from an obscure State to one of the first of European kingdoms. The licentious reign of Christina terminated in 1654, by her voluntary abdication in favour of her cousin (the son of her father's sister by the Count Palatine), and, after abjuring the Protestant faith, she ended her scandalous career at Eome, a career which her father's memory induces the Swedes to regard with too much indulgence. During his short reign of six years Charles X., surnamed Gustavus, was continually involved in war. Possessed of the greatest military talents, and desirous of emulating the glorious reign of his heroic uncle, his disputes with Poland, Russia, and Denmark successively involved Sweden in wars with those and other countries. His daring act of crossing with his army upon the ice of the Great and Little Belts, during the winter of 1657 is one of the most daring military feats upon record, and it enabled him to dictate his own terms to the Danes at the gates of their capital, by which the provinces of Skane, Halland, Bleking and Bohus were finally incor- porated with Sweden, giving her the sea as a natural boundary to the south and the west as far as Norway. An early death put a stop to the king's victorious career in 1660, and in comphance with his wishes, peace was concluded upon honourable terms, soon after his death, with all the enemies of Sweden, and a period of repose at length was obtained to recruit her exhausted resources. By the Swedes Charles X. is justly esteemed one of their greatest kings, and his untimely death as one of the worst blows that the national interests have ever sustained. ISweden.'] 26 § 12. HiSTOKiCAL NOTICE. Sweden, His son and successor, Charles XI., reigned 37 years. During his minority peace was maintained, but from 1672 the country was continually involved in wars which again called forth her energies, but by which her integrity was preserved, and the conquests made by Charles X. from. Denmark were maintained. Nominally, the power of the Swedish kings had been very limited, all the most important acts of government resting with the senate or diet. Much depended upon the personal character of the sovereign ; the enterprising and successful ruled with absolute authority, while those less fortunate w^ere compelled to bend to the voice of the diet. In the time of Charles XI., the liberties of the burghers and the peasantry had become crushed by the aristocracy ; but the preponderance of the noble families received a rude shock by the calling in of all grants made to them in former times by the crown, rendering many destitute, impoverishing all ; while the finances of the kingdom were rehabilitated thereby, and the crown made paramount, the king having in 1680 obtained from the diet a decree which gave him absolute power — a decree, which, under his son and successor, Charles XII., plunged Sweden into an abyss of ruin. His reign commenced in 1697. Invested with absolute sovereignty at the early age of 16, Russia, Poland, and Denmark combined to strip him of a large portion of his dominions. The martial character of Charles XII. instantly displayed itself; inured to the hardest exercises and humblest fare, he assumed the command of his troops and led them to a succession of triumphs, in which he crushed his enemies in detail, and with a rapidity before unheard of in the annals of war. Intoxicated with success, and in opposition to the counsel of his ablest advisers, he determined upon the conquest of Bussia, where his splendid army was finally destroyed at Pultowa in 1709, and he with difiBculty escaped into Turkey. With the destruction of the Swedish armies in Russia 1709, the glorious period of Swedish history ends, as she thenceforth sunk into a second-rate power. Charles remained in Turkey nearly five years, during which almost all his dominions E. of the Baltic had been wrested from him by his enemies. The career of this heroic visionary ended with his being assassinated during his siege of Frederikshald in 1718. — (Geyer^s Eistoire de Suede, p. 500.) Upon the death of Charles, the senate abolished the despotism of the crown, and elected his sister Ulrica Eleonora (consort of the Prince of Hesse), as queen, upon her engaging to guarantee the new constitution which was framed. The crown was again made elective, its powers placed under the control of the diet, and the aristocracy regained a restoration of their ancient rights. By negociation peace was obtained for Sweden, and a portion of her territories E. of the Baltic was restored. In 1720 the queen resigned, and the senate elected her husband, Frederic I. During his reign war again ensued with Russia. At his death, Adolphus Frederic Sweden. § 12. historical notice. 27 was, in 1751, elected, in whose reign a disastrous war with Prussia occurred, and the internal repose of the country was continually disturbed by troubles, fomented by Eussia and France, the crown and the diet mutually striving for supremacy. Upon the death of Adolphus Frederic in 1771, he was succeeded by his son Gustavus III., who was heroic, enterprising, and a patron of literature, science, and the arts. Under the guns of his soldiers he succeeded in obtaining a new constitution from the diet, which placed the powers of the crown upon a more just footing ; but mAich dissension and dissatisfaction prevailed, and in 1792 he was assas- sinated at a ball at the opera-house. The reign of his unfortunate, capricious, and obstinate son, Gustavus IV., involved the country in war with France and her allies, which resulted in the final dismemberment of two of Sweden's finest provinces, Finland and Pomerania. The distress and discontent entailed by the continued disasters of the Swedish arms ended in a conspiracy ; in 1808 the king was arrested, forced to abdicate, and the diet excluded his issue from the throne. He was subsequently allowed to quit Sweden with his family. His uncle, the Duke of Sodermanland, was raised to the throne in 1809 as Charles XIII., and a new constitution, again to some extent limiting the powers of the crown, was decreed. The throne was also declared here- ditary, with limitation to the male issue; the sovereign to profess the Lutheran religion. The king leaving no issue, upon the sudden death of the first chosen prince royal, in 1810, one of Napoleon's oldest generals. Marshal Bernadotte, Prince of Ponte Corvo, was elected Crown Prince of Sweden. Born at Pau, in the Lower Pyrenees, in 1764, and the son of a notary there, he entered the army at fifteen, and fought his way from the ranks to the highest honours Napoleon could bestow upon him. In 1798 he married Eugenie Clery, daughter of a considerable merchant at Mar- seilles, and sister to the wife of Joseph Bonaparte. The tyranny of Napoleon induced the Swedes in 1812 to join the coalition against him, Norway was guaranteed to Sweden, and her troops, under Bernadotte, greatly contributed to the successes of the allies in Germany during the campaigns of 1813 and the following year, which terminated in the French being finally driven across the Ehine. In 1814 the Norwegians elected Charles XIII. as their king, and he died in 1818. Bernadotte then ascended the thrones of Sweden and Norway as Charles XIV., and the successful efi'orts which he made to develop the resources of his dominions and to ameliorate the condition of the lower classes, are not amongst the least meritorious services of his long and active life, which ended in 1844. His son Oscar I. ascended the throne in that year, and never did any king more conscientiously devote all his energies to advance the welfare of c2 28 § 13. GOVERNMENT. Sweden. his subjects. On liis death, in 1859, he was succeeded by his eldest son Charles XV., the present king of Sweden and Norway ; for the Eoyal Family, see p. 32. Norway in the Middle Ages, and Sweden under the dynasty of Gustavus Wasa, have had glorious epochs in their history ; each has, in its turn, been more powerful than it is now, but never has either of them enjoyed the same prosperity or internal tranquillity as under the dynasty of Bernadotte. A period of peace, extending over more than half a century, has not only healed the wounds inflicted through the disastrous wars of Gustavus IV., but by leading the energy and ambition of the nation into more profitable paths, has served to develop the resources of the country in agriculture, manufactures, and commerce to a degree never before attained; has given encouragement to arts and sciences, objects of solicitude to an enlightened government, and has been productive of a large number of useful reforms, foremost among which may be mentioned the remodelling, in the present reign, of the representative system, in harmony with the liberal spirit of the age. § 13. Government. The fundamental Laws are four in number. The Constitution of 1809, the Law of Succession of 1810, the Press Law of 1812, and the represen- tative System of 1865. According to these laws, Sweden is a constitutional monarchy, hereditary by primogeniture in the male line alone. The exe- cutive powder is vested in the Crown, the legislative is exercised by the king and the chambers jointly, so that measures may be initiated by either, but do not become law without the approbation of the diet in the one case, or the assent of the king in the other. The king must be a Lutheran, and his person is inviolable ; the ministers are responsible to the diet, which has the power of appointing a special judiciary committee to try one or more of them on grave occasions. The king is commander-in-chief of the land and sea forces, makes treaties with foreign powers, and decides on war or peace, after consulting with the Council of State in full assembly. He is also the last instance of appeal in judiciary matters, which prerogative is delegated to a Supreme Court of Justice, besides other attributes of sovereignty. The Diet is composed of two Chambers, co-ordinate in competence and authority, which meet in ordinary session every year on the 15th of January. Candidates for the first Chamber are elected, each for a term of nine years and without remuneration, by the provincial assemblies in the proportion of one for every 30,000 inhabitants. They must have attained 35 years of age, and for three years previously have paid taxes on 80,000 riksdollars worth of property, or an annual income of 4000 riksdollars. Candidates for the second Chamber must have completed their 25th year and Sweden. § 13. GOVEENMEN*. — riNANCJES. S9 possess real property, taxed to a value of 1000, or an annual income of 800 riksdollars. They are elected for a period of three years each, either direct by the voters of the different constituencies, or indirect, by means of electors, delegated by the constituents. The session lasts generally about 4 months, and each member of the second chamber receives 1200 riks- dollars, besides travelling expenses, to defray the cost of his attendance. Members of the Council of State have access to the chambers and are free to take part in the discussions, but do not vote, except when serving on committees. Bills passed by both chambers constitute resolutions of the Diet; if the Chambers disagree, the measure in question falls through for that session, except in questions of finance, which, in such a case, must be decided in a joint committee selected from both Chambers in equal numbers. Finances. — The public revenue, figuring in the estimates, is derived from various sources, grouped under two heads : ordinary and extra-ordinary. The former, which are fixed, comprise certain land and other direct taxes, or revenues, gross receipts of the state-railways, &c., the latter, which to their extent and application depend on the votes of the Diets, include the follow- ing so-called grants : customs duties, post-office revenue, stamp duties, and excise dues on spirits. Should these means not prove sufficient to cover the expenses, recourse is had to a supplementary grant, which to its nature and extent is also settled between the Finance Minister and the ])iet, and consists of additional contributions, profits of the State Bank, and, when required, public loans ; either to meet current expenses or for certain specified pur- poses, principally with reference to public w^orks or eventualities of war. These supplementary funds are placed under the management of the Ex- chequer, which, equally with the Bank, is administered by delegates of the chambers, while all the other sources of revenue flow into the Treasury direct. The budget for 1869 provided for a total expenditure by the Trea- sury, under difi'erent heads, of 43,699,000 rdr. in the following manner: — Rdr. Ordinary revenue 15 , 260 , 270 Customs dues 13,000,000 Post-Office receipts ., 2,250,000 Stamp duties 1,300,000 Excise dues on home-made spirits . , 9,800,000 To be drawn from the Exchequer 2 , 088 , 730 43,699,000 Any surplus over the estimates is paid into, and any deficiency made good by the Exchequer, the disbursements of which in the year above- mentioned, for the exigencies of the Treasury, for fresh public works sane- 80 § 13. RELIGION. — PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.^ — PRESS. Sweden. tioned by tbe Diet and for arrears from the i^revions year, amounting in all Edr. 20,589,000, were to be provided for partly by Edr. 1,500,000 of the bank-profits and Edr. 2,600,000 of additional taxation (income and pro- perty), and partly by a loan, not exceeding Rdr. 18,000,000. The public debt of Sweden has been contracted exclusively for the construction of rail- ways, which more than represent its value and are productive in various ways to the country. By far the greatest proportion of men forming the army and navy, as well as a great number of civil functionaries, are main- tained by lands set apart for the purpose. These items do not appear in the budget, but must be taken into account as part of the national expen- diture, and at no distant period they will probably be included in the esti- mates. Beligion, — ^The Lutheran form of religion is that of the established church, to which most of the functionaries of the State are required to con- form, but all sects are tolerated. The country is divided into 12 bishoprics, the diocesan of Upsala holding the rank of Archbishop ; the whole estab- lishment comprises about 3200 clergy, for the most part highly educated and exercising considerable influence in society, but often miserably paid. Matters ecclesiastical are discussed in convocation, subject to the decision of the Crown. Pullic Instruction. — The education of the people, of all classes, is greatly cared for in Sweden ; it is rare to meet with an adult, even among the lower classes, who does not know how to read and write. In every parish there are one or more primary schools, and where the area is large and the population sparse as in the north (the parish of Gellivara is as large as the whole kingdom of Wirtemberg) these schools are made ambulatory, so as to reach all the children in rotation. As far back as 1862, the primary schools numbered 5086, attended by 385,760 children of both sexes, re- ceiving instruction from 5387 masters and mistresses. The latter had been qualified at 11 seminaries, which were at the time attended by 463 pupils. In 74 high schools, 674 masters imparted a more extended teaching to 11,145 scholars. All these numbers have since then augmented. The highest degree of learning is acquired at the two universities, of which, in 1864 Upsala had 83 professors and 1244 students ; Lund, 62 professors and 432 students. Besides these, a great number of public schools and institu- tions supply instruction in special branches of education. Moreover there exist various academies of sciences, art, literature, &c. The Public Press is free, but every man is responsible, according to law, for what he publishes. Imputations of offence are referred in each case to a jury of nine, chosen respectively by the prosecutor, the accused, and the court ; and the verdict, as to guilty or not guilty, brought in by two- thirds of the jury is final. There are about 150 newspapers in Sweden. Sweden. § 13. justice. — aemy. — navy. 31 Justice. — For administrative purposes the country is divided into 24 Ldn, or shires, which are subdivided into 117 Fogderier, or bailiwicks, each comprising one or more Hdrader, or hundreds. To each Lan there is a governor appointed, who is charged with its civil administration and the collection of the revenue. The capital is under a separate administration. Courts of first instance are the Harad-courts in the country, presided over by a judge, who is assisted by 12 peasant landowners ; in towns the courts of council, composed of the burgomasters and town-councillors. Superior courts, bearing the name of Hofrdtt, form the second instance : one at Stocldiolm for Sweden proper and Norrland ; one at Jbnk oping for Goth- land, and one at Ghristianstad for the provinces of Skane and Bleking. The highest instance is the Supreme Court of the King, presided over by the chancellor of justice in the absence of the king himself. There is, besides, a hofratt for the forces by land and sea. All Swedish lav/-courts are per- manent, except the harad-courts, which sit once, twice, or three times a- year, according to circumstances. The Army is composed of three classes, viz., enlisted soldiers, soldiers in cantonment {indelta\ and militia. The first are amongst the most martial- looking troops in Europe, and comprise a force of about 6000 men, over one-half of which are artillery and 1100 cavalry. The Indelta form the nucleus of the field-forces and consist of about 30,000 men, 4000 of which are cavalry, the rest infantry. The indelta system was established by Charles XI. and is peculiar to Sweden. The country is divided into mili- tary districts, aud the holders of Crown-lands within those districts provide and keep the men, each having a certain portion of land, with dwelling, &c., assigned to him, which in time of peace, and when not called out for the annual review or other service, he cultivates for himself; otherwise the crown-holder must supply the labour. The men are sometimes employed in making roads, or on other public works. Their officers have also allot- ments of land from the Crown for their sustenance. Thus has been created an army of warriors, cultivators, and fathers of families, attached by indis- soluble bonds to their native country. The militia numbers some 96,000 men, mostly infantry forming the reserves of the regular army, except a force of 8500 men, permanently organised for the defence of the Isle of Gotland. The volunteer movement, moreover, is gaining ground, and some 36,000 volunteers are at present enrolled and exercised, in addition to which all boys, of a certain age, frequenting the public schools in town or country are now, as part of their education, drilled by competent masters, and in- structed in the use of arms. The Navy has much, receded from its grand proportions of olden times. Besides a number of useless old line-of-battle ships and other sailing-vessels, there are but 18 armed and 6 unarmed steamers, the greater part of small 32 § 14. THE EOYAL FAMILY. — THE PEOPLE. SwedeU* dimensions. Three iron-clad monitors, each mounting two powerfid guns, have been completed, and a fourth is now being built. A large number of gunboats of various descriptions, lately organised as a distinct force, named the coast-artillery, protect the coasts and inland waters. The whole fleet mounts together about 1000 guns. The material for manning the vessels is abundant, being set down as high as 33,500 men, but by far the greater proportion of them would be found anything but efficient on an emergency, notwithstanding that the Swedes have the reputation of being good sailors, for at least 30,000 of the above number are either ** indelta" or sea-militia. Orders of Knighthood, — Of the 5 Swedish decorations, that of the Sera- phim is the highest, and only bestowed upon crowned heads and persons of the greatest distinction. The Knights of the Seraphim, as such, become knights of all the other orders. The Folar Star is chiefly confined to men of science and of the clerical and legal professions. The Sword is for military and naval services ; the Wasa for agriculturists, manufacturers, &c. ; and Charles XIII. is confined to freemasons. All these orders, with the exception of the Seraphim, are so extensively bestowed that they are not held in any particular esteem, § 14. The Eoyal Family. The People. The present king, Charles XV., born 3rd of May, 1826, succeeded his father 8th July, 1859, as " King of Sweden and Norway, the Goths, and Yandals." Married 19th June, 1850, to Wilhelmina Frederica Alexandrina Anna Louisa, Princess of Orange (died March, 1871), and niece of the king of Holland. Only child living, the Princess Louisa Josephine Eugenie, born 31st Oct., 1851, and married 28th July, 1869, to Crown-Prince Fre- derick of Denmark, Other members of the royal house are : the king's brother, Oscar Frederick, born 21st Jan. 1829, Duke of East Gothland and heir presumptive to the throne ; married 6th June, 1857, to Sophia Wil- helmina Mariana Henrietta, Princess of Nassau, born 9th July, 1836 ; issue four sons : Oscar Oustavus Adolphus, Duke of Wermland, born 16th June, 1858 ; Oscar Charles Augustus, Duke of Gothland, born 15th Nov. 1859 ; Oscar Charles William, Duke of West Gothland, born 27th Feb. 1861 : and Eugene Napoleon Nicolaus, Duke of Nericia, born 1st Aug. 1865. The king's brother, Nicolaus Augustus, Duke of Dalecarlia, born 24th Aug. 1831, and married 16th April, 1864, to Theresia Amalia Carolina Josephina Antoinetta, Princess of Saxe-Meiningen, born 21st Dec. 1836 ; the king's sister. Princess Charlotte Eugenie, born 1830 ; and the Queen Dowager, Josephine Maximilienne Eugenie, born 14th March, 1807, daughter of Eugene Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg and step-son to Napoleon I. Inhabitants, — With few exceptions the inhabitants of Sweden have a {^^wedeii. § l4. THE PEotLii. SS common origin and a common language, although exhibiting considerable local diversities. In the richly-cultivated province of Skane, with its nu- merous churches, manors and castles, fine homesteads and teeming popula- tion, the farmers are puffed up with their prosperity, labourers highly fed, costumes ugly, and the pronimciation drawling. Their neighbours in the comparatively meagre regions of Smaland are, on the other hand, quick of speech, active, pugnacious, and like the countrymen of Westgothland, much addicted to trade and mechanical arts. In Wermland, Nericia, and West- manland, the miners and agriculturists are a hard-working, thrifty, and in- dependent race. Sodermanland, East Gothland, and Upland are fertile regions ; the inhabitants of Sodermanland are reputed to speak the purest Swedish ; a good-natured people, less prond and obstinate than their neigh- bours of East Gothland, less phlegmatic than those of Upland. The Dale- carlian and Norrlander, to whose distant abodes modern civilisation, with its improvements and its drawbacks, advances more slowly, retain much of the old-fashioned ways of their forefathers in manners and life, including the old honesty of character, which has become somewhat impaired further south. The Dalecarlians not only cling with tenacity to their ancient customs and costumes, but speak a language of their own among themselves, not understood in the adjacent provinces, and said to resemble Gaelic. Highest up in the north, the Laps wander about with their herds of reindeer, doomed to extinction, and scarcely reminded, by faint traditions in their uncouth tongue, of a time when their remote ancestors were undisputed masters of the land. Notwithstanding all minor differences, however, the Swedish nation is distinguished as a whole by many general characteristics. The nobility is very numerous, but mostly poor, and since the reform of the representation, of no political preponderance as a body. The middle classes, which in our day exert an increasing influence on the destinies of states, differ little, if at all, from those of other countries ; but the root and stem of the social tree — the peasants— never have submitted, in Sweden proper, to the heavy yoke of serfdom or bondage, but always preserved their liberty and thereby acquired a stamp of mind, essentially different from that produced by actual or an- tecedent servitude. It is among this class that the ancient characteristics of the nation show themselves most prominent ; piety, honesty, morality, industry, hospitality, and obedience to the law, but also mutual jealousy and envy, ostentation, superstition, and a particular admiration of things foreign. Wise and sound laws have, of late, put limits to the excessive consumption of ardent spirits, formerly prevailing among the lower orders, and while, some few years ago, drunken brawls were only too common at posting-stations and other places, the traveller now-a-days rarely meets an intoxicated person. c 3 34 § 15. PKODUCTivE INDUSTRY. — i^OREsTS. Sweden. § 15, Productive Industry. Agriculture, &c. — Sweden is essentially an agricultural and pastoral country, and exports considerable quantities of corn and cattle. The soil in many districts is, however, light, poor, and thin. There are some 5,000,000 tunnland under tillage and 4,000,000 tunnland pasturage, or about one- ninth of the surface of the country ; the rest is forests, rocks, and waste lands. Ever since the year 1819, great progress has been made in cultiva- tion, so that in 1863 the value of arable and pasture lands was estimated at 1,831,947,000 riksdollars, burdened, however, with a debt of 350 millions or 18 per cent, expended in improvements, for which there is still a very great field. The annual production of all sorts of corn, in moderately good years, is calculated at 100 millions of cubic feet, chiefly rye, barley and oats, the wheat crops not exceeding 4 per cent of the whole, besides some 60 or 70 millions cubic feet of potatoes. Considerable quantities of this root, as well as com, are annually consumed by the distilleries, which in 1866 produced 15,500,000 cans, yielding an excise revenue to the Govern- ment of 9,200,000 riksdollars, besides mainly contributing to the licence- tax for retailing spirits, rendering nearly as much more, but which sum, with a wise liberality, is allotted to the different communes, for objects of local utility. Peas and beans are cultivated to a limited extent, as also flax, hemp, hops, tobacco, rape, and other seeds, beetroot, &c. Throughout Sweden the farms are generally small, the average of arable land being about 28 acres ; almost all the farmhouses and outbuildings are of wood. In all districts there are public corn magazines for times of scarcity, the un- certainty of the climate and early frosts being serious drawbacks to agri- culture. Horses, cattle, &c., are extensively reared, and improvements of race promoted by public establishments for breeding. Great efforts ' are also made to improve the breed of sheep, by importing the best kinds of stock from England, Spain, and Saxony. As far as indicated by recent official returns, the numbers of farm animals in Sweden may be- set down at 600,000 horses, 2,000,000 of horned cattle, 2,000,000 of sheep and goats^ and 500,000 swine, or thereabouts. Forests are of increasing value and importance in Sweden, and vast tracts of large timber have of late become available by means of railway transport. Wood is extensively consumed within the country to make charcoal for smelting iron or other ores, and to supply fuel for all domestic uses, there being little, if any, coal for such purposes produced in the Countiy ; also for ship-building, which is carried on in most of the towns along the Swedish coast, for fencing, and for the manufacture of tar and potash. Immense quantities of wood are exported to foreign countries in Sweden, § 15. productive industry. — fisheries. 35 tlie shape of timber and deals. Fir and pine are the prevailing trees in the Swedish forests. Mi7ies are a considerable source of the national wealth, particularly the iron-mines, of which the most noteworthy are Dannemora and Osterby, in Upland; Persberg, in Wermland; Taberg, in Smaland;- and Gellivara, in the far north, a whole mountain of rich iron-ore, but difficult of access. Atvidaberg, in East Gothland, and Falun, in Dalecarlia, are celebrated for their copper-mines ; the latter, however, which has been worked for a thousand years, is becoming gradually exhausted. Silver is obtained at Sala, in Upland ; likewise a very old and interesting mine. The Swedish iron is amongst the finest in the world, and is extensively used in England and elsewhere for making steel. All mining operations are conducted under licences from the College of Mines ; these licences specify the amount of metal which may be manufactured, and which must not be exceeded, under heavy penalties. The ores being smelted by charcoal, the leading object of these restrictions is to prevent too great a destruction of the forests : but the general supervision to which the conduct of mining operations is subject is vexatious and detrimental to the development of this leading branch of industry. Nevertheless, the iron trade of Sweden is making steady progress. In the year 1834, the produce of iron- ore was 4,822,000 centner, and 1,593,000 centner bar iron were manufactured ; in 1862, the produce of ore had risen to 10,106,000 centner, and that of bar iron to 3,016,000 centner. In 1863, out of a production of 4,270,000 centner pig iron, 2,940,000 centner bar iron, and 649,000 centner manu- factured iron and steel, were exported 2,176,000 centner bar iron, 227,000 centner manufactured iron and steel, and 236,000 centner pig iron. In 1866 was obtained 11,558,000 centner iron-ore ; and 220 blast-furnaces turned out 5,415,000 centner pig iron, from which were manufactured 3,924,000 centner bar iron, 202,350 centner castings, 94,500 centner steel, 115,580 centner plates, 158,500 centner nails, 23,840 centner implements, and 156,900 centner other manufactured goods. In the same year the mining industry of the country produced about 10 lbs. of gold, 2487 lbs. of silver, 43,297 centner copper, 600 centner copper-nickel, 6787 centner lead, 3286 centner brass, 1485 centner nickel-ore, 490,300 centner, zinc-ore, 1200 lbs., cobalt-ore, besides quantities of manganese, sulphur, red ochre, vitriol, alum, black-lead, porphyry, marble, and coal. Fisheries. — On the west coast the take of cod, ling, mackarel, lobsters, crabs, and oysters, is considerable ; and the herring shoals, which for many years had almost deserted these waters, are again becoming more abundant. In the gulfs of Bothnia and Finland great quantities are caught of a small fish called stromming, about the size of a sprat, but more delicate in taste; whether fresh or cured like herrings, they are highly esteemed in Sweden 86 § 16. COMMERCE AND NAviGAl^ioN. Sweden. and Eussia, Salmon are taken in considerable abundance in nearly all tlie rivers upon the coast, and the inland lakes and rivers are rich in varieties of fine-flavoured fish. Ma7iufactureSf like all other industry in Sweden, are steadily progressing. From 857 manufactories, producing goods to the value of 13,174,000 riksdollars in 1830, the number had increased to 2473 in 1863, and the value of their produce to 66^ millions, in w^hich sum the Motala engine- factory alone figures for 6 millions of riksdollars. Among the other principal establishments of this kind may be mentioned woollen and broad- cloth, tobacco, leather, iron and steel manufactories, cotton and paper mills, cannon foundries, sugar refineries, &c. The total value of manu- factured articles rose in 1866 to 83,748,500 riksdollars; but consider- able quantities of foreign goods are likewise imported for use, and English cutlery, especially, maintains its superiority. Domestic manufactures are much pursued among the country people, the long and rigid winter season, with its dark nights, engendering the habit of in-door employment. Thus, the peasant's clothing, implements, and household goods, are in great part the work of his own hands and those of his family, and costing nothing for labour, compete, to a great extent, successfully with factory-made goods, however cheap. The articles are necessarily of the simplest, but generally well made, as instanced by the furniture of Halland and elsewhere, the clocks of Mora and grindstones of Orsa in Dalecarlia, the flagstones of Olaud, the woollen and cotton fabrics, iron-wire and basket-work of Elfsborg, the linen fabrics of Norrland, &c., in which no inconsiderable amount of inland trading is carried on. § 16. Commerce akd Navigation. The foreign trade is chiefly confined to exports of iron and steel, timber and deals, corn, copper, tar, lucifer-matches, &c., and to imports of sugar, coffee, and other colonial products, wines, oil, salt, hides, tobacco, cotton, wool, silk, coal, &c., and is carried on principally with Great Britain, the United States, France, Holland, Lubeck, Hamburg, and Denmark. In 1830, the total value of imports and exports amounted to 45,600,000 riks- dollars ; in 1866, it had risen to 220,000,000, of which— Rdr. Edr. Imported Gold and Silver . . . 1,310,000 ,, Merchandize • . . . 111,640,000 Exported Gold and Silver . . . 880,900 Merchandize 106,169,100 112,950,000 07,050,000 Total 220,000,000 Sweden. § 17. lit^eraturiI.— § 18. churches. 87 The principles of free trade, predominant of late years, especially since the treaty of commerce and navigation concluded with France in 1865, have already shown their beneficial influence. At the end of 1866, the Swedish mercantile navy consisted of 293 steam vessels of 9500 nominal horse-power, and of 3323 sailing-vessels, measuring together 89,559 new lasts (about 350,000 tons). Altogether, 638,610 new lasts were required for imjDort and export during the year, or 35,181 new lasts more than the previous year. In the coasting trade were employed 2113 national vessels, with a burthen of together 25,811 new lasts. Both the foreign and coasting trade of Sweden are open to the vessels of all nations. § 17. Literature, &c. Literature, as well as the arts and sciences, has been most successfully cultivated in Sweden. Celsius, Rudbeck, Svedenborg Linn^ens, Scheele, Bergman, Bellman (the Swedish Anacreon), Berzelius, Tegner, Geyer, the historian, are but a few names, picked out among a great number of authors and men of science. In most of the large towns there are extensive libraries, as for instance that of Upsala, with more than 150,000 volumes, and 7000 MSS. ; the royal library of Stockholm, with 120,000 volumes, and 5500 MSS. ; the library of Lund, with 100,000 volumes, and. 2000 MSS. Among the museums, that of the Academy of Sciences, at Stockholm, is remarkable for its collections. The literary and scientific society in Upsala, Lund, and the capital, is of the most attractive and unostentatious description. Of architects, Sweden has had the two Nicod Tessin, father and son, Harleman, Adelcrantz, Palmstedt ; of sculptors, Sergei, Bystrom, Fogelberg, Qvarnstrom, Molin ; of painters, Ehrenstrahl, Pasch, Wertmiiller, Hiirberg, Wickenberg, and others. The Swedes are passionately fond of music and the drama. Jenny Lind was born in Stockholm, Christine Nilsson in Smaland, and several other Swedish nightingales have delighted European audiences ; the students of Upsala are famous for their concert-singing. Many of the Swedish national airs are very charming ; a considerable collection of them has been made and published in Stockholm. § 18. Churches. There are in Sweden about 2500 churches and chapels, many of them of high antiquity, and very interesting ; as for instance, the cathedral at Upsala ; the cathedral churches of Strengniis, Lund, Linkoping, and Westeras ; the churches in the Isle of Gotland, and a number of others, entire or in ruins. A Swedish artist, Mr. Mandelgren, has made a large 38 § 19. CANALS. — § 20. POSTAL SERVICE. Sweden, collection of ecclesiological drawings of no ordinary merit, which have been published, and prove how rich Sweden is in objects of interest to the ecclesiologist. § 19. Canals. With reference to her home and foreign trade, canals are of great importance to Sweden, on account of the two Belts and the Sound being in the hands of the Danes, who, in case of hostilities, would have the command of these entrances to the Baltic. The object of forming a direct water-communication from the centre of Sweden to the North Sea origin- ated in the early part of the 17th centy. The great difficulty to overcome was the difference of level in the Gotha river at Trollhattan Falls, and this was at length, though not until 1800, accomplished by blasting out of the solid rock a canal about 3 English miles long, parrallel with the river. In 1819, Sodertelge canal, from Lake Malar to the Baltic was completed, and in 1823, the long line of canal communication was opened between the Baltic at Sbderkoping and the great Lakes Wettern and Wenern ; this, however, necessitated the rebuilding and widening of the Trollhattan Canal, which was accomplished in 1855, since when steamers ply regularly on this route between Stockholm and Gothenburg. In addition to the above, the canal of Arboga unites the Malar and Hjelmar lakes, and that of Stromsholm connects Lake Malar with the province of Dalecarlia by the Lakes Barken. § 20. Postal Service. From 438 post-offices were forwarded, in 1866, as many as 10,364,000 letters, a large increase upon previous years. The means of transit em- ployed consisted of 120 steamers, 200,000 Swedish miles of carriage by railway, 140,000 miles by mail coaches (conveying, moreover, about 30,000 passengers), and 230,000 miles by carriers. The inland postage is 12 oere for a single letter (under half an ounce), registering 24 oere ; post-office orders are charged 20 oere for amounts not exceeding 50 riksdoUars, and 24 oere for sums above, up to 100 riksdollars, which is the highest sent in this way. Foreign mails are dispatched daily ; postage for a single letter to England via Denmark, Qd. ; time of transmission 4 days ; via Prussia, about the same. i Sweden. § 21. tours m Sweden. 39 TOUES IN SWEDEN. The following tours may be indicated for the guidance of English tra- vellers who have only a limited time at their disposal for a visit to Sweden. Including the journey from London and back, they might occupy — 1. EIGHTEEN DAYS. Friday afternoon to start from London by train to Hull. Take berth in the mail-steamer, which leaves — Saturday morning early for Gothenburg, where it arrives on the Monday night. Tuesday to see Gothenburg and take berth in the canal-steamer, which leaves Wednesday at 2 in the morning, and arrives at Stockholm Friday morning. This day, with Saturday and Sunday, may be employed in seeing the Palace, the National Museum, the Riddarholms and other churches, Mosebacke, the House of Nobles, the Governor's house, the Academy of Sciences, and take drives to XJlriksdal, to Haga, Solna, and Carlberg, and to Drottningholm. Monday, at 7 a.m. by train from the Northern terminus to Upsala, where it arrives at | past 9. Drive to Old Upsala and back, 2 hrs., including time to see the old church, the mounds, &c. Visit the castle, cathedral, and other places in the town. Order a carriage at 6 p.m., and drive to Krusenberg ; engage a boat to Skokloster, -where the steward (inspektor) will provide a night's lodging ; and see the chateau and its collections as early as possible on the Tuesday morning. The steamer from Upsala calls at 20 m. past 10 a.m., and a very pleasant trip down the fjord ter- minates at Stockholm about J past 2, in time to finish the day with a drive. Wednesday, at 9 a.m., a steamer starts from Eiddarholmen for Gripsholm^ returning in the evening. Thursday may be occupied in visiting Djurgarden, with Eosendal and Bystrom's villa ; dining at Hasselbacken, &c. Friday, at 6 a.m. (railway time), by train from the Southern terminus to Gothenburg, where the steamer for Hull waits its arrival to start with the mails. Back in London by Monday night or Tuesday morning. 2. THREE WEEKS. This short extension of time will afford opportunities of seeing a little more of Sweden and returning by way of the continent. Instead of proceeding on to Gothenburg by the Friday morning's train, as above, take ticket for Norr- koping, and change carriages at Cathrineholm, making good use of the 20 40 § 21. TOtnis IN SWEDEN. Sioederl, minutes allowed for breakfast at tlmt station. The train will reach Norrkoping at 11 -32 am. Book places immediately by the coach that leaves for Linkoping at 1 p.m., and in the mean while take a stroll through the town. More cannot be attempted. If the coach is already full, posting-horses may be engaged, here or elsewhere. Linkoping is reached at 6*15 p.m., and If hour must serve for dinner and a stroll through the town, including a look at the cathedral. The coach leaves at 8, and arrives in Skenninge at 11*45 p.m. It has only two places. Saturday, at 1*15 a.m., the coach leaves Skenninge ; 4 hours afterwards it arrives and stops for § an hour at Odeshog post-office, where coffee may be procured. Tlie Lake Wettern comes in view here. At 9*30 a.m. the coach enters Grenna, and stops for ^ an hour ; time to get breakfast. Jonkoping at 2*45 p.m. Put up at the Grand Hotel, and spend the rest of the day and the night here. Sunday, at 5 a.m., off by the train. Take ticket to Lund, arrival at 3*45 p.m. Eest here over night and all the following day ; see the cathedral and other places, and on Monday, at 9'30 p.m., take the train to Malmo, where it arrives in | an hour, and go straight on board the Stralsund steamer, which does not start, however, till about 2 in the morning on Tuesday, taking 7 or 8 hours to cross over to Stralsund, where it arrives in time for the train to Berlin, and the express from there, that same evening, for London, arriving on the following Thursday morning. 3. TWENTY-FIVE DAYS. This addition of 4 days to Tour No. 2 w^ould give the opportunity of spending 2 additional days while at Upsala, in visiting the Dannemora mines, Osterby, &c., and of devoting 1 day more to Stockholm, in which case the excursion to Gripsholm would have to be postponed from the Wednesday to the Sunday, and the departure for Norrkoping to Monday morning. The fourth day would be well spent in going over some of the manufacturing establishments in that town, and an extra day at Linkoping also, to await the coach of Wednesday evening, which would still bring the tour to an end in London within the 25 days, or on the Tuesday morning following. To Tour No. 1 this extended term would add a week. From London by way of Gothenburg as before. Friday morning, arrival in Stockholm. That day and Saturday in town. Sunday, excursion to Gripsholm and back. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday in town, till Wednesday, at 6 p.m., by steamer from Kiddarholmen to Wisby, 14 hours' journey. Stay to explore the town and island, or proceed with the steamer to Borgholm and Calmar and back. Keturn from Wisby on Sunday at 4 p.m. Monday, rest in Stockholm, Sweden. § 21. touks m sWeden. 41 Tuesday morning by train to Iiosersberg on the XJj^sala line, see the palace, and continne by steamer from the nearest landing-place to Upsala. Wednesday to Old Upsala, &c., and Skokloster. Thursday, steamer from Skokloster back again to Stockholm. Friday morning by train to Gothenburg, and thence by steamer to Hull. 4. A MONTPI. Leaving London on Friday, as in Tour No. 1, for Hull and Gothenberg. arriving the following Friday morning in Stockholm. Stay over that day and the Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, to visit the different places in the capital and its environs. Wednesday, excursion to Gripsholm and back. Thursday, at 9 a.m., by steamer from Riddarholm to Upsala; arrives at 2-30 p.m. Friday and Saturday to Dannemora iron-mines, &c., and back; sleep at Osterby. Sunday at Upsala. Monday, early in the morning, by carriage to Krusenberg, and boat to Skokloster. Return by the steamer from Stockholm, which passes here at 12'55 to Upsala. Drive to Old Upsala, Mora stones, &c. Hire a carriage to Sala, and order post-horses for the morning. Send forbud if required. Tuesday, to Sala, 11 m., will take about 10 hours. Some cold provender, brought from Upsala, Avill be found acceptable on the road. Supper and night-quarters at Sala. Wednesday, early in the morning, see the Silver-mine. Coach starts at 12-30 in the day for Falun, 16 to 17 hours' travelling ; f hour stoppage at Avesta ; the same at Hedemora. Thursday, arrival at Falun, 4*45 a.m. ; rest in town the day. Friday, visit the great Copper-mine. Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, excursions in the country. Hire carriage and order horses for Smedjebacken ; the stations on this road, G^ m.. are fast, but not to be trusted for a good meal. Tuesday, to Smedjebacken ; supper and night-quarters there. Wednesday, by steamer, at 8-30, through the Stromsholms Canal and Lake Millar, in about 24 hours. Thursday morning, arrival in Stockholm. Friday, by rail to Gothenburg, and thence by steamer to Hull, arriving on the Monday. 6. SIX WEEKS. Leaving London on a Monday, by way of Ostend, so as to be in Lubeck by noon on the Wednesday, and starting from London so early in June that, allowing 10 days for the journey to Stockholm, the traveller 4:2 § 21. TOUES IN SWEDEN. Sweden. will reach that capital before the 17th, the tour may bo arranged as follows : Wednesday, by steamer from Lubeck at 4 p.m., in about 20 hours to Copen- hagen. Tliursday, cross over to Malmo, and pass the night there. Friday, at 7*5 a.m., by train to Lund, in little more than 2- an hour ; 7 hours to see the cathedral, «&c. ; at 2-27 p.m. by train to Alfvesta, arr. 6'34 p.m. ; time for refreshments ; at 9*5 p.m. by train for Wexio, arr. 9*49 p.m. ; at 11 p.m. by coach, travelling all night, and arriving Saturday, at 2*30 p.m., at Calmar. Cold provisions for this road should be laid in at Lund. The steamer for Gotland leaves Calmar at 4 p.m., and, touching at Borgholm on Oland, arrives Sunday morning at Wisby. The voyage from Borgholm is without interest, and the night best passed in sleep. Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday to rest, see the ruins of Wisby, and explore the island. Wednesday, at 7 p.m., by steamer to Stockholm. Thursday morning, arrival at Stockholm, making in all 10 days from London. Now, on the 17th of June there is usually a steamer for Haparanda, making the passage in 72 hours, remaining there 4 days and 3 nights, ample time for a journey up to Avasaxa, to see the midnight sun, and returning in about 60 hours to Stockholm, together 8 days. This trip would come in somewhere between 6 additional days given to see the capital, and so the whole of that fortnight ended, again brings on a Thursday morning, when at 9 a.m. the steamer may be taken to XJpsala, arr. 2*25 p.m. Friday, excursions to Skokloster, Old Upsala, &c. Hire a carriage for Gefle, and order post-horses for the morning. Saturday morning to Dannemora and Osterby. Have horses ordered at Husby and Andersby. Sunday, rest at Osterby. Send '* forbud" to Hakanbo and Skarplinge. Monday, start early for Gefle, 9 m. The journey will take full 13 houis, Leufsta and Elfkarleby falls on the road. Tuesday, at 8 a.m., by train from Gefle to Falun, arr. about noon. Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, the Copper-mine, and other excursions from Falun. Saturday, by road to Smedjebacken, 10 hours, and stop over Sunday. Monday morning by steamer to Stockholm, arr. on Tuesday morning ; [or, Saturday by road to Sala, about 16 hours ; stop over Sunday ; see the Silver-mine on Monday, and post to Westeras in the evening, 5 to 6 hours; thence by steamer on Tuesday, at 10 a.m., arr. in Stockholm at 3*15 p.m. This way of returning from Falun might be preferable, on account of the Sala mine, if a carriage were brought all this round from Stockholm. There is, however, a coach from Falun to Westeras that might serve the purpose for 1 or 2 travellers.] Siveden, § 21. touks in Sweden. 43 ' Tuesday, at 7*15 p.m., by steamer from Stockholm through the Gotha Canal to Gothenburg, arr. Thursday evening. Friday evening, by steamer from Gothenburg to Hull, arr. on the Monday. [N.B. If later in the season, or the traveller does not care for the journey to Haparanda, a week may be spent from Gefle by steaming up to Her- nosand and along the beautiful Angerman river to SoUeftea, returning the same way to Gefle ; or an additional week may be pleasantly em- ployed in Stockholm ; or it may be divided between Stockholm, Norr- koping, and Gothenburg in the following manner : — Tuesday, instead of taking the evening steamer from Stockholm, as above, stay. Wednesday may be spent in going to Gripsholm, if the excursion has not been made before. TJmrsday, by early train to Norrkoping. The rest of that S^^. Clara's Church, not far from the terminus of the Northern Railway, was formerly a convent of Fransiscan nuns, built and endowed by King Magnus Ladulas in 12S5. Although of a sim- ple but massive exterior, the inside of this ch. is of tiie handsomest in Stock- holm. The altar-piece is by Sergei, with a copy of Rubens' Descent from the Cross in the centre and artistically framed. The Adolphus Frederick Church, on the E. side of Drottninggatan, is a handsome building in the form of a Greek cross, with an octagon tower in the centre. Contains a large altar- piece in altorelievo, representing the Resurrection and a monument to Descartes, both by Sergei, who him- self lies buried in the churchyard beneath a simple granite monument. In the Sodermalm, or S. suburb, are 2 large churches, Maria and Catharina, neither of which contains works of art of much interest; but the latter is admired for the beauty of its propor- tions, and being situated on a hill, its handsome cupola, fianked by 4 smaller D 3 68 BouTE 64. — STOCKHOLM : NATIONAL MUSEUM ; Sweden. towers, is a conspicuous object. Other churches and places of worship are, Sedvig Eleonora in Ladugardsglandet, Ulrica Eleonora in Kungsholmen, Johannes in Norrmalm, all 3 parish churches ; the Admiralty church on Skeppsholmen, the French Protestant church, Stora Nygatan, the Catholic church, Norra Smedjegatan, the Beth- lehem Methodist cliurch, East Beri- darebansgatan, the Baptist church, Malmskilnadsgatan, the Jewish Syna- gogue, city, the Russian Greek church, Drottninggatan and the English Epis- copalian church, at 24 Korstrandsgatan, near the top of Drottninggatan, a handsome little edifice of sandstone, built in 1866, close to the street, but raised above it on a rocky plateau and surrounded on 3 sides, as in a square, by lofty houses. It is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Sigfrid. The National Museum^ next to the Koyal Palace the finest building in Stockholm, scarcely yet finished, stands at the S. extremity of Blasieholm, for- merly an island, but long since built together with Norrmalm. It is 260 ft. long by 170 ft. broad and 90 ft. high in 3 stories. The front, facing the terrace-garden of the Koyal Palace, over the water, is ornamented with bas-reliefs ; in niches on each side of the portal are placed marble statues of Tessin and Sergei ; higher up are those of Linnaeus, Tegner, Wallin and Ber- zelius; above these Fogelherg and Ehrenstrahl. The lower vestibule is adorned with 16 marble columns, and contains the colossal statues of Odin, Thory and Balder^ by Fogelberg. The grand staircase is ornamented with casts of the friezes of the Parthenon. On the ground-floor are the various gal- leries of antiquities. Next to the assembly room of the Literary Society is the Numismatic and Medallion ca- binet, with more than 7000 Cufic and 5000 Anglo-Saxon coins, dug up in different parts of Sweden, besides many Greek, Roman, &c., in all about 50,000 ; the Egyptian collection follows, with the Tomb of queen Tahort and other objects of general interest from tlie land of the Pharaohs. Further there are a Stone gallery and a Bronze and Iron gallery, comprising articles of corresponding descriptions, including a number of ornaments in gold, silver, bronze, and precious stones, belonging to the last-named period and for the most part found in Sweden. The Pillar hall is set apart for mediaeval objects, but likewise contains historical curiosities from more recent times. The traveller ought by no means to omit visiting the room which contains curiosities of the middle ages and specimens of the royal wardrobe, from a very early date down to the little merino frock of the present king's only son, who died at 2 years old. Among numerous objects of interest may be seen one of the solid silver horse -shoes with which the royal charger used to be shod on the corona- tion day — it was only attached by one or two nails and became the property of anyone fortunate enough to secure it as it dropped from the animal during the procession. Another conspicuous object is the actual skin of the horse ridden by Gustavus Adolphus when shot at the battle of Lutzen. Also, the domino and mask of Gustavus III., with the hole of the fatal bullet which killed him one night when he was at the opera. And again, the dress of the unfortunate Charles XII., shot in the trenches at Frederick- shald — his white gauntlet as well as the hilt of his sword are covered with blood and the course of the bullet may be traced through the black felt hat upwards to the temple, showing that it was sent by an assassin and not from the walls of the beleagured town. The first floor is occupied by objects of plastic art, collections of arms, sketches, &c., arranged in 10 rooms, of which the Gallery of Engravings con- tains more than 200 portfolios of engravings, wood-cuts, etchings, and sketches, 17 of the latter being by the hand of Baphael, 11 by Gorreggio, 14 by Titian^ &c. The Majolica-room Swedi :en. ROUTE 64. — ACADEMY 01^ SCIENCES* 59 has collections of majolica porcelain, with paintings after sketches by Baphael, Giulio, Romano, Caracci, and others; also of Etruscan and Greek vases, a colossal vase of Arabian work- manship, &c. The Hall of Endymion takes its name from the statue of the ►Sleeping- Endymion. This gem of ancient art was found in the ruins of Hadrian's Villa, near Tivoli, in 1750, and purchased by Gustavus III. for 2000 gold ducats; about a sixth part of its present value. It is of the finest period of Greek art, and only second to the Barbarini fawn at Munich. Several busts and portions of sculpture are of a high class of Greek workman- ship. The Bronze-room contains statues and statuettes in that material, foremost of which is a Psyche. The Hall of the Muses is so called from the 9 Muses, with Apollo Musagetes, being placed here; as also fine statues of Pallas, Juno, Venus Anadyomene, Diana, Water nymphs, &c. Another room is occupied by plaster casts of the Niohe group, Diana, a torso, &c. The Gallery of Gustavus III. is embellished with Sergei's Amor and Psyche, and a beautiful Fawn, Bystrom's Juno and Hercules, Fogelberg's Venus and Apollo, and a number of portrait busts. The remaining rooms on this floor contain collections of arms, including all the fine suits of armour formerly in the Kiddarholm's chm-ch, and arms, &c., which have belonged to various Swedish sovereigns and other members of the past and present dynasties. Amongst other interesting objects is the sword worn by Charles XII., when he defied the Turks at Bender. It is a fearful weapon, such as few arms could wield, and bears upon its blade the motto Deo soli gloria. Here, like- wise, may be seen the sword of the patriot King Gustavus Wasa, and a variety of other w^eapons, some amongst them of costly workmanship. On the second floor a large hall is set apart for the trophies removed from the Riddarholms church, while 4 others, with more than 20 smaller rooms, contain a selection of 900 paintings. In a line with the esplanade, in front of the Museum, a handsome iron bridge, 550 feet long, spans the water to Skeppsholmen, station for a part of the fleet, with barracks and other build- ings for officers and men. The gun- ners' barracks, in mediseval style, with turrets and pinnacles, has a pleasing effect, seen from the water or the opposite quay. Here also is the Ad- miralty church, with a fine altarpiece by Sandberg, and statues of Hope, Faith, and Charity, by Bystrom. From Skeppsholmen another bridge leads to Kastellholmen, with a tiny castle built on an eminence, and from the roof of which there is an extensive view. Both these little islands are prettily laid out and planted with avenues of trees. The Academy of Sciences occupies a handsome building, on the open space between Drottninggatan and the Adol- phus Frederick Church. It contains a Gallery of portraits of eminent mem- bers, including Linnaeus and Berzelius ; a Library of 35,000 volumes, open Wednesdays and Saturdays from 12 to 2 ; a Cabinet of Natural History, open on Saturdays from 12 to 2, and a Zoo' logical Museum, including botanical mineralogical and geological collec- tions also, said to be the richest in the world, open same time as the library. To this institution belongs the Obser- vatmy, on the "Kings Hill," with many valuable instruments, and the mathematical section of the Academy'a library. The Gardens of the Horticultural Society are in the Drottningatan, and much frequented. The Technological Institute is in the same street ; a splendid building, con- taining a library of 20,000 volumes, and several other collections, open to visitors on Mondays and Thursdays from 12 to 2. The Carotin Institute is at Kungs- holmen, "W. of Norrmalm, and contains a chemical labratory, dissecting-room, 60 KOUTE 64. — STOCKHOLM : THEATRES : Swederi, library, and valuable collections of anatomical and other objects, amongst which are some beautiful models in wax, by Gonzali of Florence. The Seraphimi Hospital, standing in its own grounds, the Garrison Hos- pital fronting the Malar Lake, and the Gonradsberg Hospital for lunatics, sur- rounded by shrubberies, are all palace- like structures in the same part of the town, and their establishments are admirably conducted. There are numerous other hospitals and cha- ritable institutions of great interest in and about Stockliolm. The Royal Mint is also at Kungs- holmen. Its chief interest consists in a Cabinet of Minerals and Fossils. Of the former there are upwards of 12,000 specimens. The Royal Theatre occupies the whole E. side of Gustaf Adulfs torg, from Arsenalsgatan to the quay; a large, square building, with a noble front towards the square. It was erected by Gustavus III., and here he was shot, at a mask-ball, by Ankar- strom, on 15th March, 1792. This theatre is spacious and well fitted up, particularly the royal box, which occupies the centre of the lower tier, while the whole curve of the pit is set apart for the king's suite and officers of the guard on duty. The manage- ment is supported in part by an annual state subvention, by which means it is enabled to produce operas and plays of the highest order. Tliis house is open only in the winter season. On the W. side of the square, from Fredsgatan down to the quay, is the Palace of Prince Oscar, the exterior of which is exactly similar to that of the theatre, and in the lower front of which is the Corps de Garde. The N. side is formed by the Hotel Rydberg and other large houses, between which opens up Reger- ingsgatan, tue second principal street of Stockholm. In the centre of the square, and looking towards Norrbro and the Royal Palace, stands the Equestrian Statue of Gustavus Adol- phus, on a high pedestal ornamented with medallion portraits of his cele- brated generals and successors in the field— Bane'r, Torstenson, Wrangel, and Konigsmark. As a work of art, however, this statue is so little worthy of Sweden and her glorious monarch, that it is to be hoped it will be replaced, some day with another, more fitted to do honour to both. The group on the great staircase in the N.E. gateway of the Palace was designed with this view, but probably was not found quite suitable. The bridge itself, 640 ft. long by 64 wide, and the spacious quays, with which it is connected at both ends, merit attention. The Dramatic Theatre, erected 1842 as a private speculation, but now under the same management as the Royal, has its entrance fiom the E. side of Carl XIII. 's torg or Kungstragarden (the king's garden) ; an oblong open place, reaching from Hamngatan N. to the quay between the Theatre Royal and Blaiseholm S. It is planted with double avenues of shady trees on each side, and divided into two unequal portions by an open thoroughfare, the Arsenal sga tan, entering from Gustaf Adolf's torg, by the corner of St. James's Church, and continuing by the Blasieholm. In the centre of the N. poition of this place stands the statue of Charles XIII., very inferior as a work of art but placed on a fine pe- destal, with four bronze lions at the corners, beautifully modelleil by Fogel- berg. The S. portion, where in 1866 was erected the Scandinavian Indus- trial Exhibition building, is now adorned by a splendid bronze-gilt statue of Charles XII. in his character- istic costume, looking out, sword in hand, over the port of Stockholm, and surrounded at the base by four ancient bronze mortars, taken in his wars. This statue is modelled by Molin. Close by tlie Dramatic Theatre a small street leads to Berzelii Park, a plea- sant resort, with a statue of the great chemist. The Southern Theatre is on the Mosebacke, or hill of Moses, a large Siv^eden. KOUTE 64. — RIDDARHUS* 61 and very haadsome building, contain- ing, besides the theatre itself, with room for 600 spectators, an hotel re- staurant, assembly rooms, &c. At the side is an entrance to tlie Mosebacke gardeyi terraces^ from which the view is unrivalled, embracing the whole of the city, Kungsholm, Norrmalm, Bla- sieholm, Skeppsholm, Kastellholm, Ladugardsland, Ladugardsgarde, Djur- garden, in one vast panorama, with the ports and their shipping in the foreground. The view from the roof of the theatre is still more extensive, and no traveller should leave Stock- holm without having paid a visit to Mosebacke. The best panoramic view of the western side of Stockholm, together with a large expanse of the surround- ing country, is to be had from the sum- mit of the rocky hills close by the Skimvarviken landing-place of the Langholm steamers, which start from the Kiddarholm, and take you there in 10 minutes. That part of Stockholm called Ladu- gdrdslandety to the W. and N.W. of Norrmalm, has a park long neglected but lately much improved, known as Humlegdrden (the hop-garden), where there is a small theatre ; otherwise this part of the town is chiefly remark- able as leading by land to Djugarden and the camping-ground, and as being the site of tiie garrison barracks, which are very large and handsome struc- tures ; one of them, Fredrikshofy for- merly a palace of King Frederick I. Tiie Biddarhus, in a torg or square of the same name, connected with the Kiddarholm by a siiort granite bridge, is the house of assembly of the nobles. Exclusive of the historical associations connected with this building, it is of small interest. The hall of assembly contains the shields of about 300*0 Swedish nobles, foremost that of the Wasa family. Tiie president's chair is of ebony and ivory, a rather good specimen of Dutch workmanship. Few spots are connected with such heart- stir rin^: events as have occurred in this old hall. Here the first Gustavus, having made his country free, received the willing homage of his thankful countrymen ; here Gustavus Adolphus, when about to begin the career of con- quest which terminated only with his life, on the field of Liitzen, addressed his assembled subjects in that exqui- sitely simple and touching speech, which the historian of the Thirty Years' War has preserved ; here, too, when the fatal news arrived of his death, the infant Christina was with unanimous acclaim declared Queen of Sweden, and received the fealty of the estates ; and in later years it was here Gustavus III. surrounded the factious nobles with his troops, and having accomplished, without spilling a drop of blood, the coup d'etat which restored the kingly power, dictated to them a new constitution. Pity he tried this once more, and aiming at absolutism lost his life in consequence. The Statue of Gudavus Wasa stands in front of the Riddarhus. It is of bronze, by VArchevesque, on a pe- destal of Swedish marble, and repre- sents the king in the costume of his time, crowned with a wreath of laurel, which does not improve the efiect. Divided from the Riddarhus by a small street, leading down to a steam- ferry pier, is the Eddhus or town-hall, fronting the square on one side and the water on the other, and close by, in the Myntgatan, the Police Court, having behind it the Cellular Prison, rather a handsome building seen from the water. By the side of the Riddarholms Church is an open place surrounded by various public and other buildings, such as the Svea Bofrdtt, or Court of appeal, the Session House of the Diet, the Grand Lodge of Freemasons, &c., and in the centre of which is a Statue of Birger Jarl, the founder of Stockholm, modelled by Fogelberg, and erected in 1854. Amongst other buildings of note is the Besidence of the Governor of Stock- holm, on Slottsbacken, opposite the 62 BOUTE 64. — STOCKHOLM : PARKS ; Sweden, S.E. gateway of the palace, designed by Count Tessin, and most remark- able for the beauty of its court- yard: the JExcha/nge on the Stortorg, scene of the Stockholm blood-bath, in which the Swedish Academy cele- brates its anniversary every 20th of December, and the citizens give grand balls to royalty on New Years* Days ; the Custom House and the Banh of /Sweden, both on Skeppsbron, the broad quay extending along the whole E. side of the city, and terminating in an open place at the S. extremity of the island, connected with Sodermahn by two draw-bridges, which likewise fur- nish the means of communication by water between the outer and the inner port, /. e. between the Baltic and the Malar. The aforesaid open place is called Carl Johans Torg, and in the centre of it there is an Equestrian Statue of Charles XIV. (Bernadotte), in bronze-gilt, after a model by Fogel- berg. The Djurgdrd, or deer-park, is one of the great objects of attraction in Stockholm . The inhabitants are justly proud of it, as no capital in Europe possesses one so highly picturesque. The whole extent of this lovely park is about 3 Sw. miles in circumference, and several hours may be most de- lightfully spent in exploring parts of it; the ground is beautifully undu- lated, the oaks and other trees are magnificent, the masses of rock grand, and the drives beautifully kept. The villas and places of amusement, cafes, &c., are nmuerous; the best dinners to be obtained in Stockholm are served at " Hasselbacken," which can be reached in a few minutes from the little steam-gondolas which ply con- tinually between Alkarret and Strom- parterren, or the palace stairs, passing by the museum and underneath the iron bridge ; fares, 8 oe. At Hassel- backen commences the Djurgard's plain, where on holidays crowds of people throng around marionettes, dancing dogs, acrobats, and jugglers of all sorts. Here also are a summer theatre, a circus, a music hall, a winter garden, &c., all with their cafes. Fur- ther on, in a grove, is Bellmansro, with a colossal bust of the genial im- provisatore, erected 40 years ago, and round which a festival has ever since been held on the 26th of July, when selections of his lyrics are sung in honour of his memory. Beyond, in the same direction, are the more sylvan, but not less charming retreats of the park. On the other side of Hassel- backen is Bystrbms Villa^ built by him- self, and one of the lions of the place. It is highly decorated, in the Etruscan style, and although intended as a resi- dence, now forms a small museum of sculpture, by himself and others, which merits attention, as well as some of the architectural designs of the build- ing. Each visitor pays a fee of 50 oe. The Palace of Bosendal, built and sometimes inhabited by Charles XIV., is in this park, and commands a lovely view over a brancli of the fjord which intersects it, to the Ladugdrdsgdrde, or review ground, in the distance, where a camp is formed during sum- mer, and military manoeuvres are often conducted on a grand scale. The in- terior of the palace is shown by an attendant. It is elegantly furnished, and contains numerous pictures of the best Swedish artists. The celebrated Porphyry Vase stands in the grounds on the N. side of the palace. It is highly polished, formed of only two blocks, and measures 12 ft. in diameter, by 9 ft. high. The form is beautiful. It is from the royal manufactory of Elfdal, in Dalecarlia, and rests on a block of rough granite, 3 ft. high. The Saga Park is another charm- ing and favourite place of resort. The way there is up Drottninggatan, pass- ing the Observatory on the- right and through the N. gate (Norr TuU), a short distance beyond which an iron gate upon the right forms the entrance. The numerous islands and other por- tions of this park are prettily laid out, and many parts are highly picturesque : the ground is very rocky and broken, Sweden, HOU^TE 64. — ENVIHONS. 63 and the trees superb. The lake which adds so much to the beauty of this park is the Brunnsviken ; it commu- nicates Avith the fjord of Edsviken, leading to Ulriksdal, and its banks are so lovely that it should be seen in its whole extent, which may readily be done by the passage steamers which start from Stallmdstaregdrden, near the N. gate before mentioned. The Palace of Haga, small but tasteful, was built by Gustavus III., and was one of the favourite residences of this king. It is now the ordinary summer abode of Prince Augustus, and was recently occupied temporarily by the Crown Prince of Denmark and his bride, the Princess Louise, during the first days of their honeymoon, previous to their leaving Stockholm for the Danish capital. The gardens of this place are well worth seeing. Opposite the Haga Park, on the other side of the road, is the New Ceme- tery. It is well planted and laid out, and many of the tombs are interesting and beautifully kept. The custom of planting graves with shrubs and liowers prevails extensively in Sweden. Near the cemetery is the ch. of Solna, one of the most ancient structures still standing in Sweden, the tower of which dates far back into the days of paganism. In its churchyard Ber- zelius and Geyer lie buried. South of this ch. a road leads past the Borstrand porcelain-works to The Park of Carlherg, which in the heat of summer is .another charming place, the trees, if possible, being finer than in the other parks. The Palace here was one of the favourite residences of Charles XII., but has been trans- formed since 1792 into a military col- lege. There is little else of interest in the interior, except a collection of old portraits, chiefly of the royal fami- lies. From this park a long and fine avenue leads back to Drottninggatan, or the visitor may return to town by one of the little steamboats passing and repassing under Kungsholm's Bridge. The exterior of the palace is seen to best advantage from the other side of the channel which runs in front of it, but the view has been somewhat marred of late by the Northern rly. running through the park. A small bridge W. of the palace leads over to the opposite bank on the side of Kungs- holmen, and on to Marieherg, formerly a celebrated porcelain - manufactory, now a high school of artillery, where officers are trained for the scientific branches of the army. It is prettily situated among sylvan scenery; and from the rocket laboratory, on an eminence close by, a beautiful view is obtained of the lake, with Stockholm and its inner harbour extending across the background. There is a considerable number of manufactories of various kinds in and about Stockholm. The best shops are mostly found in Drottiiinggaten, Re- geringsgatan and their vicinities, but many of the principal tailors, boot- makers, &c., discard shoj^ fronts. The names and addresses of such, if re- quired, can be obtained from any pro- prietor of a respectable hotel. The Environs.— Stockholm is so much surrounded and intersected by the waters of the Baltic and the Malar Lake, and the natural beauties of its situation are so great on all sides, that no one should rest satisfied, nor can form a just idea of this picturesque capital, without thoroughly exploring its immediate neighbourhood and also a few of the most charming spots, in the country around it. Such are : Ulriksdal, the usual summer resi- dence of his present majesty ; origin- ally built by the great captain Jacob de la Gardie, afterwards the property of Hedvig Eleonora, widow of Charles X., and left by her to her grandson Prince Ulrik, from whom its name is derived. King Bernadotte transformed this palace into an Hotel des Invalides; but under the hands of Charles XV. it has regained more than its ancient splendour. The interior bears evi- 64 BOUTE 64. — STOCKHOLM : ENVIHONS ; Sweden, dence everywhere of a truly artistic taste. The queen's apartments are on the ground-floor, looking out on the bay of Edsviken ; very elegant in the modern style, and embellished with pictures of great merit. The furniture is rich and comfortable, according to tlie exigencies of the present time ; but here and there are seen tables, cabinets, &c., of diiferent kinds of wood, sculptured and inlaid in a man- ner which indicates the workmanship of such painstaking artisans as the 16th and 17th cent, produced. On the first floor are the state rooms, or king's apartments, completely restored in the style of the 17th cent. The bedroom, which is the plainest of tlie suite, contains the bedstead used by Gustavus Adolphus in his campaigns in Germany ; all the rest of the fur- niture is in keeping, every table, chair, cabinet, or enamel, lias a history of its own. The same may be said of the council-chamber, the gala-room, the baronial hall, &c. It is a perfect museum of choice antiquities in fur- niture, goblins, china, drinking-cups, painted windows, and other curiosities, collected and arranged with discrimi- nation and taste. The whole may be seen without trouble almost at any time, and so genuine is the pleasure taken by his majesty in these art trea- sures, that strangers have sometimes, without knowing it, been conducted by himself over this palace. The road to Ulriksdal passes by Haga and Jarfva, and thence through a long avenue of trees, between pretty villas, to the park and gardens ; the charge for a carriage is about 5 rdr. Just in- side the gates is a pavilion, fitted up to accomniodate guests, and farther on in the park a ch., in the Dutch Ee- naissance style, has recently been erected. The route by water to Ul- 1 riksdal is somewhat longer, but very | pretty ; fare, 50 oe. each way. Steam- I gondolas, leaving the palace-stairs in the city, proceed along the sound which separates Djurgarden proper from its N. half; pass by Rosendal and Djur- gardsbrunn ; turn up northward into a wider passage called Wartan ; pass through a floating bridge 2700 ft. in lengtti ; along the E. shore of the camping-ground, to the fishing-hut of Charles XI., still standing at the nar- row inlet to a forked bay called " Hu- sarviken." Leaving this on the 1., the steamer proceeds in a more W. direc- tion past Alkistan, where a similar inlet leads through Brunnsviken to Haga, and onward, through Stocksund Bridge, along Edsviken, to Ulriksdal. All around these various bays, as in- deed in all other directions, are situa- tions of beauty too numerous to be all specified. Drottningholm, another of the crea- tions of Count Tessin, is the stateliest of the royal summer palaces about Stockholm. Situated on Lofon, one of the many lovely islands in the lake Malar, the road to this place traverses Kungsholmen, part of Upland and Kerso island, crossing over 3 sounds by as many bridges. Carriage hire from town 7 rdr. Fare by steitmboat from Riddarsholmen 50 oe. ; distance about a Swedish mile. The palace is splendidly furnished and embellished with paintings of EJirenstrahl and other mastej's, a portrait gallery of cotemporary sovereigns of the late King Oscar, many cui'iosities, a hand- some library, a theatre, &c. The gar- dens, planned partly after French, partly after English, pattern, are orna- mented with vases and groups of sculpture in bronze and marble, jets of water, canals, swan preserves, and shady islets, &c. China palace, a pavi- lion in Chinese style, built by Adolphus Frederick, as a birthday surprise for his imperious queen, Louisa Ulrika, is filled with a variety of Chinese curio- sities, and adjoining is a row of little summer cottages, bearing the name of Canton, which was originally intended to be a village of mechanics, under the immediate supervision of the above- named king, who was, if otherwise not much known to fame, at any rate reputed the cleverest locksmith and Sweden* ROUTE 64. — LAKE MALAR ; MARIEFRED. 65 turner in his kingdom. Formerly this palace boasted large collections of vases, statues, bronzes, &c., mostly spoils from the German wars, but these have now been removed to the 'National Museum. The queen dow- ager Josephine usually inhabits Drott- ningholm during the summer, as does also Prince Oscar and his family. There is a very fair inn, or restaurant, not far from the palace, where dinners, &c., may be had. S. of Canton a road leads to Svartsjo, on an adjacent island; also a royal ]-)alace, surrounded by a large and sombre park, bearing much evidence of neglect. Originally a Car- thusian convent, it was made a strong castle by Gustavus Wasa, but after- wards rebuilt, became the dowager- residence of several Swedish queens. It is chiefly interesting, in the present day, as having been the retreat where some of the most important designs of the glorious Gustavus Adolphus were discussed and matured. Beneath an old linden-tree in the park stands a fine marble group, representing the hero and Axel Oxenstjerna, but the hand of time and the touch of vandal- ism have spoiled its beauty. Bosersberg is another royal palace, which was a favourite summer resi- dence of the late King Bernadotte, and is celebrated here for the richness and elegance of its furnitui-e and deco- rations. The park abounds in lovely spots and scenery of a sylvan cha- racter. It is distant from Stockholm about 3 miles, on the route of the steamer to Upsala. Rydhoholm, on the great Wartan fjord, is about 3 miles from Stockholm, and belongs to the Brahe family. It possesses great historical interest, as having been the residence of Gustavus Wasa in his childhood. His study and an oak planted by him in the garden are still shown. Lake Malar, surrounded by 3 pro- vinces, Upland, Sodermanland, and Westmanland, the very heart and cradle of the Swedish kingdom, may to a great extent be classed among the environs of Stockholm, as excursions on its waters are of frequent occur- rence, besides regular steam commu- nication being kept up with the towns and principal stations on its shores. This lovely lake is about 75 English m. in length ; its width varies very much, and the arms are numerous, intersecting the adjoining country in all directions. Of islands of all sizes there are no less than 1200, and num- bers of them exquisitely beautiful. Months might be passed in exploring the Maler, and the abundant remains of primeval forest with which its banks and islands are covered. Game is said to be abundant, and the fishing in the lake and its tributaries is well spoken of. As the steamer winds its course through the more secluded channels and fjords, deep silence reigns all around, and at times no vestige of human being or habitation is to be seen, until, on turning the point of some sequestered nook, a villa or little farm, nestled among the trees and sur- rounded by patches of fine pasture, prove tiiat the solitude is not so great as it appears to be. Among the places which may be conveniently visited in this way are Mariefred, and the royal castle of Gripsholm, on the S. shore. Steamers from Riddarholmen in 3 hrs. twice a week ; return the same days ; fare for the double journey 3 rdr. The course lies along the Riddarfjord, studded on both sides with country seats, to Kungshatt, a high rock, on the top of which is seen a hat on a pole, placed in memory of a traditional feat of some king of old, who escaped his pursuers by leaping on his horse from the summit into the water, and, in so doing, left his hat behind. Further on the steamer enters Eckero tjord, passing Eckero ch. to the rt., and the stately mansions of Norshorg, Sturehof, and WdlUnge to the 1. ; afterwards Kaggeholm appears in the strait which leads into the roomy Bjorko fjord, 66 ROUTE 64. — STOCKHOLM : ENVIRONS ; Sweden, where an island of the same name is pointed out as the site of ancient JBirka, the city where Ansgarius first preached Christianity, and which is said to have been so large that it could send forth 14,000 armed men. Traces of walls, and fosses, and sally- ports may be observed to this day, but their extent indicates rather a fort than a large city. Passing Kindo, the steamer then enters the Gripsholm fjord, having on its rt. Bdfsnds, where Gustaf Wasa received news of the Stockholm " blood- bath," and on its 1. Ndsbt/y a fine man- sion surrounded with a large park, turning off I'rom which, to the rt., the steamer fronts Mariefred and Grips- holm. The town is small and of no import- ance, owing its origin partly to a Car- thusian convent founded by Sten Sture in 1504, partly to the castle, which is named after the celebrated Bo Jonsson Grip, a man of vast possessions in the 12th centy. After various vicissitudes, it was appropriated and rebuilt by Gustavus Wasa, but considerably altered and enlarged in the time of Gustavus III. Here Eric XIV. kept his brother John a prisoner, with his Avife, the Polish princess Catherine Jagellonica, and the bed is shown in which Sigismund, eventually king of Sweden and Poland, was born. In another tower is the dismal prison where John afterwards kept his de- throned brother, though it is now affirmed only during Eric's paroxysms of madness, better apartments being assigned him in his lucid intervals. Here also Gustavus IV. signed his abdication, in a room adjoining that wliere his father used to dress him- self to appear on the boards of the handsome theatre which he had fitted up in this old Wasa castle. Very in- teresting is the large collection of his- torical portraits, about 1800 in num- ber, among which are those of Gus- tavus Wasa and his successor, Eric XIV., painted by the unfortunate Eric himself; the principal cotemporaries of Gustavus Wasa; the diplomats at the peace of Westphalia ; the crowned heads cotemporary with Gustavus III., &c., as likewise the numerous curio- sities, pieces of old furniture and tapestry, silver vessels, and similar objects. In the exterior courtyard are placed 2 enormous pieces of ord- nance, commonly known as " the hog " and *'the sow," taken by Jacob de la Gardie at Ivanogorod. The castle, with its 4 towers and irregular form, enclosing 2 courtyards, has all the appearance of an old baronial strong- hold, and presents a striking object in the view of the surrounding beautiful landscape. It is shown to strangers by the attendants for a gratuity. A short mile W. of Mariefred is the cannon foundry of Aker, with a fine mansion, extensive workshops, and a good inn. Conveyances are easily ob- tainable at Mariefred. Steengnas. — Steamers leave Riddar- holmen every morning for this ancient town on the S. shore of the Malar, not far from Mariefred. Passing Rindo (see above) the steamer enters the Prestfjord and steers towards Sela-o, one of the largest islands in the Malar, rich in archaeological remains, fui-ther on Tynnelso, formerly a castle belong- ing to the Strengnas bishops, is seen on an island to the rt., and shortly afterwards the tall steeple of Strengnas cathedral comes in view. The town, though the see of a bishop, is insig- nificant; barely 1600 inhab., but was formerly of much more consequence. Here, on the 6th of June, 1528, Gus- tavus Wasa was elected King of Sweden, and 23 years afterwards the royal dignity was made hereditary in his family. The principal building in the town is the Cathedral, inaugu- rated 1291, but, through the excess of wax candles, set fire to on the occasion, afterwards restored, but again burnt down, and finally rebuilt, as it now stands, in 1551. It is 300 ft. in length, 112 ft. in breadth, with a tower 250 ft. high. Within this venerable pile rest the remains of Sten Sture the elder, Sweden. ROUTE 64.— ESKILSTUNA ; ARBOGA. 67 Charles IX., with his 2 queens. Carl Carlsson Gyllenhjelm, his natural son, a brave commander, lies buried in a side chapel, ornamented with bas- reliefs of his battles, and where the chains by which his cousin, Sigismund of Poland, caused him to be secured during 12 years of military captivity, are also preserved. The College, a building of modern construction, con- tains a library of 12,000 volumes, many of them very rare, as Augustinus de Cfvlt. Dei Bomx, 1468, and cabinets of coins, minerals, and preserved birds. In the neighbourhood are the fine estates of OUvehdll (with a spring of mineral waters), Ndsbyholm^ Sdby, &c. EsKiLSTUNA, or "the home of Eskil," an English missionary, who, after being stoned by the heathen, was buried here, because his coffin became so heavy that it could not be carried any further. Steamers 3 times a week from Kiddarholmen to this place in 7 hrs., fare 4 rdr., calling at Strengnas, and thence proceeding along the lake, over the North-fjord and Gran-fjord, where the fairway diverges to Westeras. On the rt. appears Fagero island, and beyond it the towers of Engso church and castle, the locality of numberless ballads and stories. Still proceeding westward the steamer enters the Black- tjord, passing by Sundhyholm, and shortly afterwards arrives at TorsMlla, a small town which, until the com- pletion of the present canal, served as a port to Eskilstuna. The latter place has been called the Sheffield of Sweden, rather on a^ smaller scale, but well worthy of the name, as far as concerns workmanship. Among the more pro- minent establishments may be men- tioned the Government Musket Factory, MunktelVs Engine Factory, Stdhlberg^s Knife Manufactory, Tunaforss Eolling- mills, Hedengrens Damascene works, Ileljestrand's manufactory of razors, Svengrens manufactory of sabres, and others, where the visitor may procure good specimens of Swedish industry. At the technological school in this place there is a permanent exhibition of similar objects, shown by the in- structor. A small river connecting the lakes Malar and Hjelmar flows by Eskil- stuna, forming several cascades in its course, and greatly enhancing the beauty of the landscape. Bosenforss factory, Eushy Bekarne ch., Rossvik and Bihy, are situated on this water- course, and where it enters the Hjelmar lake is the splendid manor-house of Stora Siindby, built in Anglo-Norman style, with large gardens and a good inn adjoining. Near to this are Nds- hulta ironworks and Oja ch. A mile N.W. from Eskilstuna is situated Jdders ch., burial-place of the great Chancellor Axel Oxenstjerna, and containing numerous relics from the Thirty Years' War, which can be freely inspected. S. of the town, in the centre of Sodermanland, is the small market-town of Malmkoping, with a posting-station and inn, fur- nishing lodgings for travellers. A coach leaves Eskilstuna post-office 3 times a week for Orsta, 1 m., Malm- koping, 21 m., and thence on to Sparreholm on the W,, rly. f m., fare 1 rdr. per m. Private carriages may be hired, and post-horses engaged, if preferred. Board and lodging at the posting-house in Eskilstuna at For- stadskdllaren (suburban inn) and other places. Arboga is another small town, now rapidly increasing, situated on the Koping-Hult line of rly., but likewise accessible direct from Stockholm in 8 hrs., by steamers leaving Kiddar- holmen 3 times a week; fare 3^ rdr., weekly return ticket 5 rdr. Stallar- holmen, Strengnds, Quicksund, and Kungsor are touched at on the passage. After leaving Strengnas, these steamers proceed to the W. extremity of 1. Malar, where the Arboga river empties itself at Kungsor, a favourite residence of Charles XI., who built the handsome Carl's ch. at this place. Further up the river are the estates of Svarthdll 08 ROUTE 64.— STOCKHOLM: ENVIRONS. Sweden* and Reutersherg. Arboga, in the mid- dle ages, was a considerable town with 5 churches, 4 chapels, 3 convents, and a royal palace. No less tlian 32 diets were held, at different times, in this place, at which, in 1434, Engelbrecht, and in 1471 Sten Sture the elder, were elected administrators of the realm, but in the present day Arboga has nothing of particular interest to show. Accommodation for travellers is fur- nished at the posting-station. KoPiNG, one of the end-stations of the Koping-Hult rly., is likewise in direct water communication with Stock- holm, by means of steamers, which depart from Eiddarholmen 3 times a week, and, taking a N.W. direction from Quicksund, reach Koping in 7 hrs. Fares, first-class, 4 rdr. ; return tickets, available for a week, 6 rdr. Koping also had once its time of great- ness, its castles and churches, of which few traces remain, except the present parish church, a handsome structure with a fine altar-piece and a monu- ment of Scheele, the great chemist, who lived and died an apothecary in this little town, while the fame of his discoveries was spreading over Europe. This route by Koping is the shorttst from Stockholm to the interesting mining districts about Nora and Linde in Nericia. W ESTERAS, the chief town of West- manland, is situated on the N. shore of the lake Malar. Steamers leave Riddar- holmen every day for this place, calling at Strengnas and other places. Fares, 3 rdr. .'^O oe. either way ; time of pas- sage, 5^2 to 6 hrs. This town has about 4800 inhabitants. It is situated at the mouth of the Svart-un (black river), and carries on a considerable business in agricultural and mining produce. The governor of the pro- vince and the bishop of the diocese reside here. Apartments at Hotel Kraah, in the great square, and at the posting-masters, Storgatan ; good dining-rooms at Franck's, in the square. and Laman's, in Storgatan. The chief objects of interest are the Cathedral and the Castle. The former is a red brick Got I lie structure of the 11th centy., but has undersjone considerable alterations. It is 306 ft. long by 122 ft. wide, and its steeple, 328 ft., is the highest in all Scandinavia. The ad- ministrator Svante Sture and King Eric XIV. lie buried here. Over the grave of the latter Gustavus III. erected a monument, on which were placed the crown and sceptre removed from the tomb of John III. at Upsala. The handsome altar-piece was a pre- sent from the administrator Sten Sture the younger and his wife, the equally celebrated Christina Gyllenbtjerna. In a building adjoining the cathedral is the High School, containing the consistoriai library of 11,000 volumes, including a valuable collection taken at Mayence, in the Thirty Years' War, and presented to this town by Axel Oxenstjerna. There are likewise several important and interesting manuscripts. The castle is also a very old building. Eric XIV. was imprisoned here, prior to his removal to Orbyhus. The bat- tlements command a beautiful view over the lake Malar and surrounding country. It was here, at the eventful diet of 1527, which lasted but 8 days, that the Roman Catholic religion and hierarchy were swept away by the great Wasa, and Sweden made that stronghold of the Protestant faith, from which Gustavus Adolphus was enabled to stem the returning tide of Popish supremacy which threatened to overwhelm the fatherland of Luther. SkuUuna brassworks and Svand iron- works, on the Svart-a, are among the more considerable in the neighbour- hood. Westeras has regular land com- munication, eastward with Stockholm, and northward with Falun, by means of mail-coaches, thus forming the cen- tral station on Siveden. route 65. — Stockholm to Gothenburg by rail. 69 ROUTE 65. STOCKHOLM TO GOTHENBURG [lID- koping]. rail. The railway carriages are somewhat similar to our own ; tlie 2nd - class not so good as on the German lines. English travellers generally travel 1st- class. The names of the refieshment stations, together with the detention at each, is posted up in the carriage. Eate of travelling about 25 Eng. m. an hour. From the terminus at Sodermalm in Stockholm the rly. runs S., gradually bending round westward, and crossing Arsta-fjord on an embankment, with a swing-bridge of iron, 30 ft. long, on passing over which Tanfo sugar re- finery is seen to the 1., and the fair- way of lake Malar to the rt. Liljeholmen station, with engine- workshops, &c. The train proceeds through the Nyboda tunnel, 932 ft. long, bored through the solid rock, past Huddinge and Tumha stations, Tumba paper-mill, where the Swedish bank-notes are manufactured, Eon- ninge and Uttran lakes ; towards the Hall-fjord, from the Baltic, which receives Sodertelje canal ; over the canal on an iron swing-bridge, resting on high granite pillars, by Sodertelje upper station, to the nether station, 3*4 m. from Stockholm, Inn : Studskellaren. Sodertelje is a very old town, and formerly carried on a considerable trade, but decayed as Stockholm rose into importance, and in 1719 was totally destroyed by the Rusj^ians. Since 1819, when the Sodertelje canal, first commenced by Engelbrecht, was completed, it has gradually recovered, and has now 2000 inhab. St Ragn- hild's ch. was built about the year 1100 by the queen of Inge the elder. In 1849 an hydropathic establish- ment was formed here, which has attained some celebrity, and together with the constant communication by rail and steamer with Stockholm*, causes many families to resort hither in summer time, giving a very gay appearance to the pretty little place. About \ m. from hence the train runs through a tunnel 450 ft long, and comes out on a high embankment on Lake Lanaren ; further on, Lake Glias is crossed in the same way, and along a succession of small *^lakes, mostly surrounded by forest land, the train passes Jerna and Momho stats., and the handsome mansion oiWisbo- ha7nmar, stopping at Gnesta Stat., 5*9 m. from Stockholm, where 12 minutes* time is given for breakfast. [A diligence 4 times a week, by Lcistringe and Svdrdshro, 2 J m. from Gnesta to Nykoptng, 21 m. (Inn: Assemble'e Cellaren : Stadskellarn), chief town of the province of Sodermanland, and residence of its governor, with about 5000 inhab., situated on a small river of the same name, which connects the great network of lakes, in the interior of the province, with the Baltic. Its principal export is corn. The old town of Nykoping had a wealthy Franciscan convent and a castle, NykO- pingshus, the scene of many sieges and dai k deeds, especially under the Fol- kung dynasty. Here Magnus Ladulas kept liis brother and predecessor Wal- demar in prison, and the son Birger starved his brothers Erik and Wal- demar to death. Charles IX. died, and his daughter Catherine and her son Charles X. were born here. Castle and town were destroyed by the Rus- sians in 1719, but some ruins of the former remain. The new town is pleasantly situated, has 2 churches, a 70 ROUTE 65.-~SPAREEHOLM. Sweden, fine square with a spring fountain, and several manufactories, the principal among which is the engine factory, belonging to the Hogbo Comi3any (see Ete. 74), with foundry, rolling mills, ship-wharf, &c., and where iron steamers, locomotives, and other rail- way plant are constructed. Amongst places in the neighbour- hood may be mentioned — Svlirta iron- works, beautifully situated, Harg's cotton-mills, Arno island and manor, Wdderhrunn agricultural school, and the manor of Sjosa, with pretty gar- dens, and a handsome dwelling-house, which in 1719 was saved from the Russian depredators by an old woman beating a drum on their approach, which frightened them away. The ghost of Charles XII., murdered but the year before, was still potent against his depopulated country's enemies. Steamers leave Nykoping for Stock- holm, length of journey 7 J hrs. ; for Norrkoping, passage about 5 hrs. The distance by road N. to Stockholm is 11| m., by Svardsbro, 2| m., Stora Aby 2 m., near the little town of Trosa on the coast ; Pilkrog 2, Soder- telje IJ, Fitja 2, and Stockholm 1^ m., through some picturesque scenery, and S. to Norrkoping, 6 m., through a similar country, by Gefle* If, Krokek*t 2, Lilla Aby*t 1|, and Norrkoping, From Gnesta, on the main route, tlie rly. continues by Bjornlunda and Sfjernhofy in a fertile and well-wooded country, diversified with manor-houses and farm buildings, churches, and lakes. Sparreholm Stat., 8*8 m. from Stock- holm, near the chateau of the same name, belonging to Baron Sprengt- porten ; a noble building, situated on a small island, and surrounded by a lovely country, improved by art so as to resemble a vast park. The chateau contains a library, a collection of coins, and a few exceedingly good portraits by Swedish and foreign painters. Excursions are now often made to this place from Stockholm, on Sundays in the summer months, and visitors are treated with the greatest courtesy by the owner, or those that represent him. A mail-coach leaves this station for Malmkoping and Es- ; kilstuna (see Rte. 64.). After leaving Sparreholm the train passes by Fkn Stat, and a pleasant country, in which is seen, on the 1., Flen's ch. by a lake, and on the rt. Stenhammar, the fine old chateau of Baron von Krsemer, on the beautiful lake Wammeln, Count Morner's estate of Hdlhonds, and on to Walla Stat., 11*4 m. from Stockholm. Roads from here lead S. to the great estate of Eriksherg, with a splendid chateau, gardens, and park, belonging to the Bonde family, and N.W. to Bie, If m., where is the hydropathic es- tablishment of Augustenhad, Cathrineholm Junct. Stat. 12-3 m. Buffet the largest and best in Sweden ; 20 minutes allowed for dinner. Table- d'hote, price 1| dollar; beer, wine, and spirits extra. This station is named after the neighbouring great Bonde estate, on the lake Nasnaren, and hence diverges the Eastern main Railway to Norrkoping. From Cath- rineholm the W. train proceeds along an isthmus between the lakes of Wiren to the S., and Kolsriaren to the N., to the great plain of Win- gdker, on which stands the fine chateau oi Sdfstaliolm, likewise belong- ing" to the Bonde family, with a valu- able library and collection of manu- scripts, a picture gallery, with pro- ductions of Italian, Flemish, and Swedish masters, Bystrom's group of Venus and Amor, Fogelberg's Mer- cury lulling Argus to sleep, &c. [Not far from this place is Wingdher, 14*3 m. from Stockholm, in the midst of a peasant population, remarkable not only for their peculiar costume, but likewise for a great in- clination to trade and travel. Shortly after leaving Cathrineholm stat., the train enters the province of Nericia, and passing by the station of Sweden, ROUTE 65. — SKOFDE. 71 Kllsmo, Brefven's iron-works and en- gine factory, and Bysta country seat, stops at Pdlsboda Stat., 17*2 m. from Stock- holm. The highway from Orebro into East Gothland, through the S.E. mining districts of Nericia, in which are situated the great iron-works of SJiogaholm, Gryt, and Haddeho, passes by this station, on leaving which the rly. traverses a wooded country, as far as Tynninge, when the large and fertile plain of S. Nericia opens to the view, and the line gradually descends to Hallsherg Junct. Stat., 18*5 m. from Stockholm. Here the lines from Stock- holm, Upsala and Norrkoping on the one side, and Christiania, Gothenburg, and Malmo on the other, join a branch- line to Orebro, in connection with the Koping-Hult and other private rlys. Several high-roads also meet near this station, which provides board and lodging for travellers. Wretstorp Stat., 19*9 m. from Stock- holm. This is the station for Asker- suND, 2 m. dist. to the S., a pretty little town of 1400 inhab., at the top of the "Wettern lake. In its neighbourhood are Stjernsundy I m., with a splendid mansion, beautifully situated, once the property of Prince Augustus, now belonging to Mr. Cassel; the Amme- herg zinc mine, 1^ m. by rail, belong- ing to the Belgian Company La Vieille Montague; other zinc-mines at Ldg- gesta; the iron-works of Dohnaforss, Algrena^ Aspa, and SkyUberg. At Eude, I m. dist., is a mountain close to the Motala road, with 2 ''giants' caldrons," well worth seeing. Asker- sund has regular communication by steamers with Medevi, Wadstena, Mo- tala, Hjo, Grenna, Jonkoping, Gothen- burg, and Stockholm, by the Lake Wettern and Gotha Canal, and a mail- coach connects it with Wretstorp, on leaving which station the train pro- ceeds to Laxd Junct. Stat., 21*3 m. from Stockholm, and half-way to Gothen- berg. In the neighbourhood of Laxa is Porla mineral-spring, famous for its mud-baths. The train from Stockholm on leaving Lax§, passes through the great forest of Tiveden, which sepa- rates West Gothland from Upper Sweden, by the large village of Bo- darney and Finnerodja station to Elgards Stat., 24*1 m. from Stock- holm, 18*5 m. to Gothenburg. The country now becomes more diversified and fertile, and gradually descends to the Gotha Canal, over which the rly. passes on an iron swing- bridge to Toreboda, 25-5 m. from Stockholm, 17*2 m. to Gothenburg. There is a considerable and increasing traffic at this place, owing to the rly. here cross- ing that section of the Gotha Canal which connects the great lakes Wenern and Wettern, and the passing and re- passing of steamers. Board and lodg- ing may be obtained at the rly. hotel; (apartments 1 rdr. and 1| rdr. per day) there, and of Mr. Perzonn, who also lets carriages on hire. The large country-seats of Hallandsberg Ymsjci- holm, and others, are at short distances from here. The next station is Moholm, 26*6 m. from Stockholm, 16 m. to Gothenburg. From hence a diligence starts for Mariestad on the Lake Wenern, a small town with 2400 inhab., residence of the governor of the shire of Skaraborg. The train passes by Waring to Skofde Stat., 29*1 m. from Stock- holm, 13*5 m. to Gothenburg. Inns : the rly. hotel, a large and commodious building with restaurant; apartments 1 rdr. and 1| rdr. per day. It is a little outside the town, as is also the new promenade, which the good peo- ple of Skofde have named their Bois de Boulogne, and where there is a good restaurant. Skofde is small but very ancient town, with less than 2000 inhab., situated at the foot of the re- markable Billingen hills, covered with rich vegetation, ensconsing three lakes or tarns on their summits. W. of Skofde, | m. distant, lies the ch. ofWamhemy formerly a Bemhar- 72 EOUTE 65. — LIDKOPING — FALKOPING. Sweden, dine convent, erected by king Sverker the Old in 1150, and the burial-place of several kings and other great persons of those days. It was burnt down by the Danes in 1566 ; but the ch. was rebuilt in 1671, and the ancient tombs restored by Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie, who added a burial-chapel for his family. It is now a handsome Gothic structure, built in the form of a cross and with 3 towers. [From Hjo on the "Wettern to Lid- koping on the Wenern Lake, a mail- coach passes every day through Skofde. From the latter place, the distance to Wersas posting station is If m., and thence Ig m. to Hjo, a small town of some 1200 inhab., only remarkable for its situation in a district of West Goth- land, which for its beauty and fertility has been called "the golden nook." Steamboat communication with Stock- holm and Jonkoping. W. of Skofde the road to Klostret posting station is I5 m., and thence 1| m. to Skara, 2300 inhab., an an- cient town in the great plain of West Gothland, and the see of a bishop. The cathedral is a very old building, and, spite of repeated ravages by fire, will still bear comparison with those of Upsala and Lund. In the neigh- bourhood are Gudhem, a great place of sacrifice in heathen times, afterwards a convent, now a ruin ; Gotala, where the " Tings " of all Goths were held, and beyond this Axevalla heath, an extensive camping-ground ; Husaby, where Olof Skotkonung received bap- tism, and the first cathedral in Sweden was founded by him ; since removed to Skara, after the destruction of the great pagan temple there, in the time of H&kan the Red. From Skara the road continues by Handenas, | m., and Winninga, 1 m., to LiDKOPiNG, 1 m. Inns : a good hotel and restaurant. This town is at the head of a deep bay at the S. end of the Wenern, where the river Lida enters the lake, and is a good fisldng- station. The Chureh (1260 to 1500) is the largest in Sweden, after Upsala. The country around the town is level, while the celebrated firclad mountain called KinneJmlle forms a beautiful object on the other side of the bay, for although but 927 ft. above the level of the sea, it appears much higher from the flat country around it. This mountain, with its abundant vege- tation, its caves and its splendid views, is much resorted to in the summer by the upper classes of the Swedes, many of whom have houses and estates on and near it. The walks and rides about the mountain, which rises from the S. shore of the Wenern, are lovely, and good fishing may be had in that lake, where the salmon, trout, and jack, run to a very large size. To the N. of the town a promontory stretches for a long distance into the lake and its deeply indented shores, and the host of small islands about it afford fine wild- duck and other water-fowl shooting. Lidkopinof exports corn to Gothen- burg and England, and has steam- boat communication with Gothenburg, Stockholm, Norrkoping, and the towns around Lake Wenern.] After leaving Skofde the train fol- lows the Billingen hills, along a beau- tiful country past Stenstrups station, through several deep cuttings, and over 7 bridges to Falkoping Junct. Stat., 31*9 m. from Stockholm, 10*2 m. to Gothenburg. Ely. Buffet — 20 minutes allowed for dinner. Table d'hote 1^ dollar, at a very good restaurant. This station is at a short distance from the little town of that name, at the foot of Mos- seherg hill, 844 ft. high, and like Billingen, Kinnekulle, and several others in this province, of the old Silurian formation, covered with trap. The town has 1500 inhab., and is historically known as the place where, in 1389, King Albrecht was defeated and taken prisoner by Queen Margaret. The country round about is full of anti- quarian remains. Here the Southern main line branches off to Jonkoping Siveden, ROtTTE 65. — ALINGSAS. GOTHENBTTRG. 73 and Malmo. The next 2 stations on the Western line, Sorhy and Foglavik are passed by and traversing a bare and uninteresting country, the train reaches Herrljunga Stat., 35' 1 m. from Stock- holm, 8"1 m. to Gothenburg. At this station a line branches off S. to Boras, and another N. to Wenersborg and Ud- de valla. At Herrljunga a victory was gained by Sten Sture the elder, over the Danes, in 1471, after which, says tradition, the surviving lords sat down to dinner round a large flat stone, still bearing the name of Herrebordet — the lordly table. Wdrgdrda Stat., 36*4 m. from Stock- holm, 6*2 m. to Gothenburg. The station is situated at a corner of one of those bleak and sterile wastes called Svaltor (starvations) which occur in this part of the country, produced by a senseless destruction of the forests of fir which formerly covered them. Though these are now being slowly replanted, it will take a long time before the melancholy aspect of these deserts can be changed. Proceeding onwards and passing by Lagmansliolm's station, the country begins to look more pleasant as the train approaches the town of AlingsIs Stat., 38*4 m. from Stock- holm, 4-2 m. to Gothenburg. Hotel Gotehorg, near the railway station, is considered the best for board and lodg- ing, but there are two or three others, where carriages may also be obtained. Founded in 1611 by the burghers of Ny Lodose, burnt out from there by the Danes. The town is prettily situated near the outlet of the Safve river into Lake Mjorn, and has about 1800 inhab. It was formerly the centre of manufac- turing industry in Sweden, through -the exertions of the patriot Jonas Ahlstromer; the principal establish- ment here of that kind in the present day is a cotton factory. In the neigh- bourhood are a mineral spring with promenade, the country-seats of Nolilhaga and Shafaeryd, all sur- rounded with fine scenery. The line from Alingsas runs through a very ISweden.'] picturesque and diversified tract of country, between Lake Mjorn on the right and Lake Safvelangen on the left, to Floda station and factory, sur rounded with high hills and dense woods, the Safve river following in its crooked course down a deep valley, which is spanned by a granite bridge of 5 arches near the station of Lerum. Here the scenery becomes lovely along the banks of the Aspen lake to Jon- sered station, where the S. elonga- tion of the lake is crossed over on a w^ooden bridge 240 ft. long, and after- wars the River Safve, on 5 different bridges, near the extensive cotton aiul other factories of Jonsered, presenting, with their Gothic chapel and beau- tiful surrounding scenery, one of the most interesting spots on this route. Thence, passing the last station of Partilled, the view opens over the valley of the Gotha river, and shortly after- wards the train halts at Gothenburg Terminus (Sw. Gote- borg) 42*6 m. from Stockholm. The whole journey by fast train occupies a little less than 12 hrs. Inns: Gota Kdllare in Sodra Hamngatan, with restaurant and cafe, best, but second- rate; Hotel Garni at 1 Skeppsbron, Blom's hotels Sodra Hamngatan 37 ; Bark's hotel, Lilla Drottninggatan 4 ; Hotel Royal, Ostra Laruigatan 8; Hotel Carl XV., Kopmangatan 54, &c.; apartments from 1 rdr. to 3 rdr. per day, attendance 1 dollar. Restau- rants — at the Exchange, at the Free masons' Lodge, Sodra Hamngatan 21; Svea, Korsgatan 1 ; Lorentsherg (only in summer). CafCs — the Exchange, the Freemasons' Lodge, Simen's Cafe", Torggatan ; Cafe du Commerce, Skepps- bron 1. Horticultural Society's garden (only in summer). Foreign newspapers at Gota Kallare, Bachelor's club (to which an introduction is required) and the Reading-room of the Museum. Post-office at the corner of Gustaf Adolfs torg and Torggatan. Tele- graph-office in Norra Hamngatan. Livery stables kept by C. J. Nissen, 74 ROUTE 65. — GOTHENBURG. Sweden, Kyrkogatan 58; J. Anderson, Ostra Larmgatan 5; O. M. Osberg, Drott- niiiggatan 56. Droslcas are stationed at different places ; single fare within the town 50 oe. Omnibuses to Mast- hugget and Molndal. Steamboats every quarter of an hour to Klippan and intermediate places, fares 10 to 25 oe. ; six times a day to Nya Warfvet, fare 30 oe. ; three times a day to Lange- drag, fare 35 oe., besides excursions to Kanso and other places on Sundays and holidays. Gothenburg is the second city and the first commercial town of the kingdom, the see of a bishop and residence of a governor, with about 54,000 inhab., including the suburbs of Masthugget, Majorna, Nya Warfvet, Haga and Stampen. Gothenburg is situated upon the estuary of the Gotha river, 5 Eng. m. from the sea, and was founded on its present site by Gustavus Adolphus in 1619, on the Dutch plan, with inter- secting canals. Often ravaged by fire, it lias been more and more improved by each succeeding reconstruction ; of the fortifications, which confined it of old, little remains, except a few detached forts and the moat, which latter, as well as the canals, receive their water supply from the Molndal river. Of the 20 bridges which cross the canals, Lfjonbrorij Kdmpebron, and Tyshabron arc the finest ; the principal square is Gustaf Adolfs Torg, with a statue in bronze of the founder of the city, modelled by Fogelberg. This is the second cast from the model ; the first, executed at Munich, was shipwrecked on Heligoland, and the salvage de- manded was so exorbitant that the Gothenburgers preferred to have a new cast made. The original statue was afterwards sold for a very modest sum and erected at Bremen. The hand- somest street is Sodra Tiamngatan, on both sides of the great Hamn Canal. Seen from the easternmost bridge it offers a perspective unsurpassed in any town of Sweden ; the movement of various craft on the broad canal, with its granite quays and stone bridges; the wide streets on each side planted with avenues of trees and bordered by rows of palace-like houses all of the same height ; the great square to the rt., and the river in the background, produce together an effect of great architectural beauty. Of public build- ings there are the Cathedral^ by the western harbour, ornamented with columns of Scotch sandstone ; Christ inse, or the German Church, with the tomb of Field-Marshal Kutger von Asche- berg, celebrated in the wars of Charles XI.; the new ch. at Haga, designed in Anglo-Gothic style by Major Edelsvard, erected chiefly through the munificence of Mr. David Carnegie; the English Church in Kasemtorget, also designed by Major Edelsvard in the pointed-arch style, and with valuable painted windows in the choir, &c. The new Exchange in Gustaf Adolfs torg is a handsome structure in the Italian style, fronted with 12 iron columns towards the square. The residence of the governor, in which Charles X. breathed his last, is near the harbour. The New Theatre, a very fine building, is beau- tifully situated in the park, which, together with the Horticultural So- ciety's Gardens and a long avenue with many pretty villas, surrounds the town on the S., following the bends of the moat. The Museum is in Norra Hamn- gatan, with the usual collections, in- cluding one of industrial objects. The Hospital, Arsenal, and JBarrachs of the regiment of artillery permanently garrisoning Gothenburg, are extensive and conspicuous buildings, and many others might be mentioned. Notwithstanding war, fire, and pesti- lence, Gothenburg has, owing to its excellent position, always remained a place of great commercial .importance. In former times it had its East India Company, and profited by the rich herring-fishery on the coast, which has since departed. During the clos- ing of the continental ports against England by Napoleon, it was a depot for British colonial produce, which - > >- ^^ wU /' --^ *^ * > ^ <*V'^ "7 «^ t^ **-t ^ ^ , " ^ ■' Irortv a, Sketch, Survey by Capt/J-Eutdurvsow, R.E. Sweden, route ^^, — Stockholm to Gothenburg by water. 75 was thence spread all over Europe. Its trade at the present day is large and annually increasing. The staple exports are iron, steel, and deals, mostly the produce of the rich mines and vast pine-forests of "VVermland, corn, and, of late, cattle to England ; the imports consist of colonial goods, cotton, wool, wines, coals, &c. Many of the leading merchants are Scotch, or of Scotch extraction. The best view is to be obtained from a rock in the beautiful grounds of Mr. Dickson, close to the town. Permis- sion is kindly given by the munificent owner to visitors to inspect the villa and English gardens. The town, though handsome, is not picturesque, but its situation is, and there are many lovely points of sight to be obtained from the rocky and sterile hills in the neighbourhood, par- ticularly to the N. looking up the valley and river. On this side, some distance out of the city, is the Cemetery. The inscription at the entrance is Tank pel doden — Think of death. There are some delightful drives and many beautiful country seats round about : likewise several cotton, engine, and other manufactories, and a large brewery established by Mr. Carnegie, which not only supplies a great part of Sweden with bottled ale and porter, but exports considerable quantities thereof. An agreeable excursion may be made by taking a boat down the fjord to the fortress of Elfsborg, which guards the entrance to it, and was built in 1660. Travellers going to Norway will do well to engage an interpreter or ser- vant at Gothenburg, who can speak English, Norwegian, and Swedish, as it is difficult to obtain such at Christiania. About 20 Eng. m. N.W. of Gothen- burg, upon a small island, is the ancient town of Maestrand, formerly a place carrying on a considerable trade, but frequently suffering from the vicis- situdes of war; now a fashionable bathing-place in the months of July and August, during which time steamers go there daily from Gothen- burg. The town has about 1250 inhab., several merchant-vessels, and a good harbour, protected by the strong fortress of Carlsten. Another bathing- place in vogue here is Sdro. There are steamers to this and various other places near Gothenburg, as well as to all the towns on the W. coast, round the Lake Wenern, and on the Gotha Canal to Stockholm. For steamers to foreign ports see Rtes. 62, 63, and 64. Fast trains to Stockholm and MalmC) daily. . ROUTE 66. STOCKHOLM TO GOTHENBURG, BY THE GOTHA CANAL. LAKES MALAR, WET- TERN AND WENERN. THE FALLS OP TROLLHATTEN. This is one of the most picturesque routes in Sweden, and will well repay the traveller, and should certainly not be omitted. It occupies 2| days from Stockholm to Gothenburg, and costs 25 rdr., food not included. The dis- tance can be run in one day by the rly. if necessary. The steamers start from the Riddarholmen Quay every Tues- day and Friday at 5 p.m., and travel day and night, unless delayed by fogs or thick weather. They are small and short, but very comfortable. As the number of cabins is very limited, tickets should be taken at the office on the Quay close by the place where the boats lie, some days beforehand. The food on board is .very good, and all paid E 2 76 ROUTE 66, — THE GOTHA CANAL. Sweden, for by the carte. 2 dollars will be enough to give the waitress, and the same amount the stewardess at the end of the journey. One of the officers of the ship is sure to speak some English. Although the Gotha Canal is differ- ent in character from any other work of like description, yet the traveller will often be reminded of the Caledo- nian Canal in Scotland, with this differ- ence, that while 3 or 4 locks are some- times grouped together in the latter, this number is often increased to 8 in the former, giving the steamer the ap- pearance of mounting up enormous stairs. The boats have been much improved both in speed and arrangements. Beneath the long poop are 10 cabins, 5 on each side of the vessel, and open- ing into a passage between them, which runs fore and aft. Each cabin is completely separate from the others, has one berth on either side it, these in the daytime are converted into sofas, a small table, and a sliding window in the sides of the ship. These berths are very comfortable. Beds are also made up in the saloon, which is in the fore part of the vessel ; a wretched dormitory. The steward's bill for 3 meals averages about 2 d. b. a day. Except when prevented by darkness or fog, these steamers proceed day and night upon their voyage, stopping only at the various towns and places on their way, to land and take in goods and passengers, and also to obtain fresh supplies of wood. In many parts the navigation is so intricate and difficult that the greatest caution is requisite, and the vessels in such places proceed very slowly. There are also 74 locks to be passed, which occasion a great delay in the voyage, particularly in the latter portion of it, from the number of vessels waiting to pass. These delays, however, enable the passengers to take delightful walks and explore the lovely scenery about some of the locks. . There are 7 portions of canal which serve to unite the various lakes in the S. of Sweden, and thus forming a con- tinuous waterway across the country, affording an outlet to the Baltic and the North Sea for its various productions, and escaping the expense and delay of passing the Sound. Of the entire distance of 370 E. m. between Stock- holm and Gotlienburg, only about 50 are canal, and the same distance along the coast of the Baltic ; the remaining 270 being through lakes, bays, and rivers, the scenery in many parts being of the most pleasing character. The canal has 10 feet of water : it is 48 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 on tlio surface. Plans of connecting the Baltic with the open sea near Gothenburg by ca- nal were devised many years before they were carried out. In 1516, Bishop Brask proposed to connect Lake Wettern with the Baltic, and Gustav I. thought seriously of con- necting the Wenern and Wettern. Charles IX., however, was the first to commence the undertaking: he opened a part called "Carls Graf," to avoid the upper falls on the Gohta Kiver. In the reign of Gustavus Adolphus, the locks at Lilla Edet were made, and a commencement was made of the "Hjelmare Canal," but it was not completed till 1701. The famous Swedenborg drew Charles XII.'s attention to the undertaking in 1716. But on that king's deatli 3 years afterwards the works again languished, and it was not till 1742 that they were renewed, and continued slowly under the direction of Wiman, the engineer of the Sala silver-mines. At a later period surveys of a line between the Wenern and the Baltic were taken under the direction of Daniel Thunberg, and in 1793 a com- pany was formed for making the Trollhattan Canal, after a plan of the engineer, Eric Nordevall. This was opened in 1800, and improved and widened, under the direction of Colonel N. Eriksson, to similar dimensions Sweden. IIOUTE Q)Q. THE MALAR LAJiE. 77 with the rest of the Gotha Canal be- 1 tween 1836 and 1844. At the beginning of the present century the Baron Baltzar von Platen was placed at the head of the under- taking, and he may be said to be the founder of the Golita Canal as it now exists. In 1808 he summoned to his aid the famous English engineer Thomas Telford, and in 20 days the whole line was marked out, over nearly the same line as that contemplated by Daniel Thunberg. The work was l^rosecuted all through the disastrous period of 1809-10, when Finland was taken from Sweden, and in spite of the opposition of many, who stated that the canal would be the grave which would swallow up all Sweden's re- sources. In 1822, Platen had the satisfaction of seeing the West Gotha Canal opened for traffic. And in 1832 the two Swedish seas were at length connected, but Platen did not live to see the completion of the entire work. He died in 1829. The works were chiefly carried on by the army; the whole cost of the canal, as finally carried out, amounted to 9,142,231 r. d. b. The voyage conmiences upon The Malar Lake. This lovely water is about 75 Eng. m. in length. Its width varies very much, and the arms are numerous, intersecting the adjoining country in all directions. Of islands of all sizes there are no less than 1400, and num- bers of them exquisitely beautiful. Months might be passed in exploring the Malar and the abundant remains of primeval forest, with which its banks and islands are covered. Game is said to be abundant and the fishing in the lake and its tributaries is well spoken of. The view of Stockholm from the Malar, though fine, is not to be com- pared to that which is obtained on ap- proaching it from the Baltic. The beauties of the Malar may be said to commence from Stockholm. Villas are frequent upon its banks and is- lands. At first the boats and barges are very numerous, but these are soon left behind as the steamer enters amongst the islands where eternal silence appears to reign, and at times no vestige of a human being or habi- tation is to be seen, until, upon turn- ing the point of some sequestered nook, a villa or little farm, nestled amongst the trees, and surrounded by patches of fine pasture, prove that the solitude is not so great as it ap- pears to be. On a mass of rock projecting into the lake, an ancient iron hat may be seen as the steamer passes it. Tra- dition tells that it marks the spot where in olden times a king of Swe- den was beset, and singly faced his pursuers. At length overwhelmed by numbers, and this same hat torn from him in the struggle, by a last eflbrt he smote his foremost assailant to the earth, plunged into the lake, and escaped. After continuing about 20 Eng. m. down the lake a promontory is rounded, and the most southerly branch is en- tered which terminates at Sodertelje, an ancient inland town, situated on a point intersected by the canal between the Malar and a bay of the Baltic that runs far up into the country. The cutting of this canal was commenced as early as 1435, by Engelbrekt, but the works were soon stopped. The canal was recommenced in 1780, and completed in 1819. It Is said that no canal of a similar length has such enormous banks, upwards of 100 ft. high, which combine to form a beautiful picture, fringed as they are at their summit by trees. The steamer winds its way along till it reaches the small Maren Lake. If the biscuits offered for sale as the boat stops at the Quay at Sodertelje are the best in the town, the sooner the manufacture is altered the better. The price of wood has increased so 78 KOUTE 06. — -THE GOTHA CANAL. Siveden. much in the south of Sweden, that coal has taken its place in all the steamers. Soon after emerging from the Soder- telje canal, the Island of Morko is seen on the right, upon which rises the Castle of Hormingsholen. This estate is one of the largest in Sweden, and the castle was extensively forti- lied in former days; from one of its windows fell the renowned military commander of the Thirty Years' War, John Baner, Avhen only 8 years of age, — the fall was 38 ft., but his life was miraculously saved. The steamer follows this arm of the Baltic, passing through numberless islands and rocks imtil it reaches the open sea, across a bay of which it takes 2 hrs. to steam. Two routes Avill be found marked on the map, the longer and inner one is taken only in rough weather. Should the evening be foggy, or the night very dark, the steamer anchors till daylight in con- sequence of the difficult navigation caused by the numberless rocks ; some of these passages seem so narrow, that a walking-stick from the cabin-win- dows could almost touch the rocks on both sides. The open sea is left at the entrance of Slatbacken to enjoy the beautiful scenery of which the tra- veller must rise very early ; this fiord terminates at the village of Mem. We notice the water very turbid and muddy as we enter the canal. From Sbderkoping the canal pro- ceeds through several locks past the village of Klefva, on through Wenne- berga bridge, and the key sluice Klamman (jammed), which derives its name from the canal being there con- fined between two mountains and out into the Lake Asplangen. Wenne- berga bridge, just named, presents one of the most picturesque views on the route. The canal is dug here through the sloping ledge of a mountain run- ning close to the margin of a steep declivity, at the bottom of which the narrow line of a dark-blue stream is seen winding between bushes and leafy wood. The locks between Mariehof and Wenneberga compose the 1st ladder of importance we meet with in the ascent of the Eastern Canal. The total rise is not less than 64 ft. The forma- tion of the whole tract about Wenne- berga seems to show that a consider- able volume of water has flowed there, of which the little stream that runs to Soderkoping is a dying remnant. The country is very undulating, hills both high and low, rise in every direction like little islands from the level plain. The lake of Asplangen is 10 m. long and very narrow, at Hulta we enter the canal again, which continues its course for 4^ m. to Norsholm, where the Lake Roxen commences. At this point the high road to ISTorr- koping crosses the canal, which town can be reached in about an hour's drive. This is the Manchester of Sweden, is well built, has a good har- bour, with a handsome iron bridge over the river. The machinery is principally worked by the river Mo- tala, which dashes through the town. There is a rly. to Kathrineholm Junction, a station on the Line be- tween Stockholm and Gothenberg or Malmo — so that the jom-ney can be broken if desirable. At the entrance to the Roxen upon the N. is the estate of Norsholm. It is interesting, as having belonged to the celebrated Bishop Hans Brask, who is said to have originated the design of constructing the Goth a Canal. The lake is 109 feet above the sea- level. It is 2^ miles long by 1 broad. It receives three large feeders, the Motala, Svartan, and Staugan, but has only one river running out of it. The steamer runs nearly the whole length of the Roxen, passing the town of LiNKopiNG, which is seen in the distance upon the S. Upon the N.W. of the lake is the fine mansion which formerly belonged to the Counts Douglas, who had a large estate there. This branch of the celebrated Scotch family emigrated to Sweden during CromwelFs time, and hold a most dis- Sweden, KOUTE 66. — THE GOTHA CANAL. 79 tinguished place in the annals of their adopted country, a place which they have earned by their services in the field, as well as in the cabinet. The banks of this fine lake are wooded to the water's edge. On the W. side of the Roxen a series of 11 locks is passed on entering the the Ost Gota Canal, which is here car- ried up the face of a hill 70 feet above the level of the Roxen, and terminates in the Wettern Lake. The first 7 locks open into each other from the margin of the lake ; the remaining 4 are at short distances apart. Observe the views, as well from the shores of the lake as from the high ground at the 7th lock; they are amongst the loveliest in the S. of Sweden, the noble masses of wood and water extending as far as the eye can range. The oak becomes most abundant and very fine here. The steamer always takes about 1^ hour to pass the locks, which gives ample time for visiting the Conventual Church, called Vretakloster. It is highly interesting, and not more than 10 minutes' walk from the locks on the S. of them. The church is in the Gothic style, and was founded in 1128, by Inge II., one of the three kings of Sweden who are buried in it. It is in the form of the Latin cross, and the chapels which have been constructed at the sides, as places of sepulture, render the exterior more picturesque. The two first chapels from the altar, on the S. side, contain the tombs of the kings — a third on the same side is tilled with those of the Douglas family, and rich emblazonments of their arms, amongst which the " bloody heart " is conspicuous. In one corner of the chapel are a number of Austrian standards taken by "the Douglass" during the Thirty Years' War. On the north side is the vestry, which contains the tombs of several abbesses and other distinguished members of the establishment in former days. Adjoining the vestry is the. Conventual Prison or Cell, now forming an en- trance to the church. Observe the very antique font, the carved pulpit, and the tombs in the churchyard. The person who keeps the keys is generally to be found at the church upon the arrival of the boat, for which he looks out. This portion of the canal terminates in the small lake of BoreUy which is 243 feet above the sea-level. About midway on a promontory on the S. side of this lake, is the fine chateau of JJlfasa, belonging to the Stjerneld family; and most pic- turesquely situated. There is a li- braryhereof upwards of 5000 volumes, and the gardens and grounds have been laid out at great expense. This place is celebrated as being the cradle of the maternal branch of the Brahe family. The neighbouring church of Egbyborna is interesting. The Borenhult sluices commence immediately after passing the Boren. They form the ascent to the level Motala line of canal, and consist of 5 locks in close succession, by means of which a rise of 51 feet over the surface of the Boren is effected. They form one of the finest parts of the canal works— its banks overgrown with trees and saplings, which the steamer has almost to push on one side as she con- tinues her course. From the upper lock there is a glorious retrospective prospect over the beautiful Boren and its smiling shores, wooded alternately with birch and pine, between which fruitful corn-fields and verdant mea- dows shine forth at intervals. On the bank (northern) of the canal, halfway between Borenshult and Mo- tala, in a little enticing grove, is the grave of B. B. von Platen, the ingeni- ous founder of the canal. The place is enclosed by iron rails, and shaded by elms and poplars. The master could not have a more appropriate resting-place than here by the side of his great work ; a flat slab of marble, with the inscription B. B. von Platen, is the simple memorial to cover his remains; his monument runs by at his side. 80 ROUTE 66 » — MOTALA. THE WETTERN LAKE. Sweden, * MoTALA, where all the steamers call. This place is fast rising into importance, in consequence of the large iron foundries and manufactories established here. They were esta- blished originally for the manufacture of the iron implements, &c., required in making the canal, under the ma- nagement of an Englishman of the name of Eraser. The boat usually stops long enough to enable the pas- sengers to see the place, but great care should be taken, upon every occa- sion of leaving the vessel, to ascertain from the captain himself the exact time of departure, as instances have occurred of passengers being left behind. The largest iron foundries and manufactories in Sweden are at Motala. Iron steamers, steam-engines, rolling-mills, &c,, are made here. Great efforts are made by the Govern- ment to improve the various native manufactures, for which object about 30,000 d. banco are annually ex- pended. Intelligent young men have been sent to England and Germany to learn the most improved methods of manufacturing cutlery, with a view of improving that trade in Sweden. At present almost all the best cutlery used there is of British manufacture ; which is twice as good, and 30 per cent, cheaper than the Swedish. The best native cutlery is produced at Eskilstuna, a small town on the S. of the Malar. Lake. The ruins of the fortifications at Motala are the re- mains of the works erected in 1567 to resist the passage of the Danes. And upon the S. bank of the canal near here is buried Admiral Von Platen " Vid de bbljor, sjelf lian diktat, Vid den strand, ban sjelf bar byggt." The country around Motala is beautiful; a short time might be delightfully passed here in exploring it, particularly along the E. shore of the Wettern. The small Inn is well spoken of, and there is good shooting and fishing to be had. The trout in the Wettern attain a very great size. The Wettern Lalie. The boat crosses this lake late in the afternoon ; the latter is sadly ad- dicted to sudden scjualls, raising up nasty chopping seas. In some parts it is very deep, reaching soundings of 300 feet, and full of currents ; the water is like that of a clear spring. These inland lakes are so vast that land at times is nowhere visible. Shortly after leaving Motala the town of Wadstena rises up on the left ; the steamer is piloted cleverly into a very small harbour close to its cele- brated Castle, which is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in • Sweden. It is surrounded by walls, towers, and moats, and has a most im- posing appearance. Internally, how- ever, it does not harmonize with its proud exterior, and its spacious halls are now only employed as magazines for corn. The castle was built in 1545 by Gustavus Wasa, but for him and his family it was only connected with sorrowful associations. The Duke Magnus, who inherited this castle by the will of his father, passed many years here in a state of insanity, dur- ing which, on one occasion fancying he saw a beautiful mermaid beckoning him, he cast himself from a window of the second floor into the moat, but was saved by a faithful servant. Duke Carl took Wadstena Castle by storm ; it was very much battered, but afterwards restored by John III. Queen Eleonora made a grant of the castle for the purpose of establishing a foundation of noble spinsters, but the lovely virgins have never yet taken pos- session of their home. Beautiful lace is here offered for sale, but it is not too cheap. The steamer now steers straight across the Wettern to Wanas Point, where it arrives about 10 p.m. Here we have before us the Fortress of Carlsborg, commenced in 1820 to de- fend the entrance of the canal. The main walls follow Wanas Point, and Sweden. ROUTE Q^. — WENERSBORG. 81 form an oval polygon. Seven portals pierce the fortifications, which entirely cover the wild and wooded Point. Darkness will prevent the traveller from seeing the beautiful waters of the Viken, and the West Gotha Canal, and the constant succession of locks, with the boat grinding against their sides, together with the gurgling of the water as it rushes in, is not conducive to sleep. The Lake WiJcen is soon reached, 398 feet above the level of the sea ; it is of the greatest importance to the canal, forming as it does the reservoir upon which the suj)ply of water for the whole of the western line depends. There are 19 locks from the key sluice at T^torp to the Wenern. At Fdvetstorp we pass the highest point of the canal, where there is an obelisk to the memory of Charles XIII. Soon after we arrive at Torboda, where there is a railway station on the main line, and here the journey to Gothenburg, Stockholm, or Copen- hagen may be broken. At Norquam there are 2 sluices, with a descent of 20 ft., and between these is situated the greatest aqueduct on the Gotha Canal. A brook is led through 4 arches under its bed. At Sjortor2), where the canal enters Lake Wenern, the scenery is very beau- tiful. It is a busy place, with its dry docks, harbours, basins, and jetties. Beyond the town of Mariestad is seen the mountain of Kinnekulle, 927 ft. high, crowned with pine-forests and studded Avith villages and churches. Upon Kallandso is seen the Lecko Slott or palace. It is now used as a prison. The best part of the day is occupied in running down this enormous lake (Wenern), at times almost out of sight of the shore. The town of Wenershorg is the residence of the Governor of the Pro- vince of Elfsborg. It was formerly fortified, and has several times been sacked and plundered by the Danes and Norwegians. In 1834: the town was destroyed by fire, which spared only the Governor's mansion and the church. The new buiJt town is regu- lar and ornamental, and a pretty pier acts as a breakwater to the waves of the angry Wenern. It is connected with Dalsland by a drawbridge and pier called Dalbobron, which is more than 300 fathoms in length. The mountains of Halleherget and Hunneberget upon the bank of the Wenern E. of the town, are interesting from the peculiarity of their forma- tions, as well as for their extensive forests, numerous small lakes, and the tombs and other antiquities in their neighbourhood. On leaving Wenersborg the steamer's course is not direct down the Gotha river to the left, but into the little bay of Wassbotten to the right, and on to the Charles Canal, cut during the reign of Charles IX. to avoid several minor preludes to the Falls of Troll- hatten that interrupt the passage of the first part of the river. The scenery is mostly flat and unin- teresting till arriving at the Falls of Trollhdttan, where there is an hotel facing the water, and close to the landing-place of the steamers. It is a large and commodious build- ing ; charges moderate, attendance and food very good. Those who can spare the time will do well to remain there a few days thoroughly to explore the beauties of this part of the river. Mr. Lloyd, the well-known sportsman and author of ' Field Sports in the North of Europe,* resides a short distance up the stream. There is a large village here and ex- tensive saw-mills close upon the finest portion of the first fall, all which detract from the wildness and pic- turesque efiect of the scenery. The falls are 7 in number, altogether 112 feet in height. The names are Guild fall, Toppo, Stampestrom, 3 called Helvetes, and Flottbergdrom. Toppo fall is the highest, 44 feet. But they are in fact magnificent cataracts E 3 82 ROUTE 60. — THE GOTHA CANAL. Sioeden, rather than falls, and those who visit them after seeing some of the grand waterfalls of Norway, will perhaps consider they have been somewhat overrated. One of the great beauties here is the vast body of water always in the river. Upon the brink of the first fall it is divided by a small rocky island covered with firs, and the view of the dark waving line of the water just there, ere it rushes down over the rocks below, is one of the finest points of sight. From the platform at the back of the saw-mill, next the fall, is the best spot to see it. Two fatal accidents Avhich have occurred here prove that it is certain death to go down this fearful stream. The last instance was that of a man who in crossing the river in a boat was carried over. Several persons saw the accident, and as he reached the brink he coolly stood up and waved his hat — in an instant after he was dashed to pieces amidst the rocks and whirlpools below. Lower down the river, but nearly on a level with the summit of the falls, is a curious excavation in the hard solid rock, nearly in the form of a hemisphere, on the sides of which are written, in large coarse characters, the names of a great number of Swedish monarchs and distinguished persons who have come hither to behold the wonders of Trollhattan. It is at present high above the bed of the Gotha river, nor can one readily understand how the water, by whose agency alone such a gradually curving surface could have been produced, e ver ran in this direction, unless this ]K)int has formed at some remote period a portion of the channel of the cata- ract before it hollowed out its present rocky bed. Near this spot and from another small island in the bed of the river which is reached by a bridge, the finest general views of the falls are obtained. A toll of 8 sk. is payable for a ticket to cross this bridge. None of the Mis are of great height, and soon after passing the second island the river forms a succession of fine rapids for about an Eng. mile, and then flows tranquilly onwards. The banks of the stream are very rocky and precipitous, and on the W. side covered with trees wherever there is room for their roots to cling. The fishing in the river is very poor. The canal here is the most stupen- dous w^ork upon the whole voyage; including a small lake which has been taken advantage of, its length is about half a mile, most of which has been blasted out of the solid rock. The difierence of level between the highest part of the canal at Trollhat- tan and the point where it joins the river below the falls, is about 120 E. feet; there are 9 locks to be passed, which uaiially occupy upwards of two hours, affording the passengers sufii- cient time to see the falls. Imme- diately adjoining the river there is a double line of locks, those originally constructed having been found too small for the steamers and increased traffic on the line. Omit not to see the lovely views from the cliffs near the locks, and from whence the engineer- ing difficulties which have been over- come can be best appreciated. From thence all the way up to the falls, which may be heard thundering in the distance, the ground inclosed between the canal and river is highly picturesque. There are several pretty villas, saw-mills, &c., in the pine-wood which runs along the margin of the canal, and the walks in this wood lead to some beautiful spots on the banks of the river, which there rushes along its rocky bed 100 feet below. After passing the locks at Troll- hattan, the steamer again enters the Gotha river, which is thenceforth very picturesque all the way to Gotten- burg, although widely different in character. For some miles below the locks the banks remain rocky and precipitous, with beautiful mosses, lichens, heaths, and pine-trees cling- ing about them. Sweden, ROUTE 67. — STOCKHOLM TO CHRISTIANIA. 83 t* Lilla JEdet is a large village, with, several good houses and shops, about 2 m. below TroUhattan, and there is a comfortable Inn, close to the fine fall which the river makes here. Some years since, 12 or 13 per- sons crossing the river above this fall, from the negligence of the ferry- man, were swept into the torrent, and every soul perished. The fishing is usually better than up the stream, wliere it is being constantly poached. The country around is also very lovely. On passing the last locks below Lilla Edet, the banks become less wild, and the river soon flows tran- quilly through a rich plain, with low, but very abrupt, Mils at intervals. The banks are covered with enormous beds of rushes, which aiford shelter to quantities of wild fowl. The flap- per-shooting here is said to be excel- lent. The very fine and extensive ruins of the old castle of Bohus are passed on the W., when the river divides, and a large branch, flowing past Bohus and the small town of Kongelf, enters the sea by the Elve Fjord. From where the river sepa- rates to Gothenberg is 1^ Sw. mile ; the character of the scenery remains the same as that about Bohus ; the upper portion of Gothenburg is seen a long distance before reaching it. The steamer is laid alongside the quay, and porters are in attendance, whose charges are paid by tariff". The cap- tain sends the passengers' passports to the police office. Uothenhurg (see Ete. 65), Note. — In this description of the Gotha Canal I have been much assisted by a Swedish account of it published in Stockholm. Corrections have, how- ever, been made from my personal ob- servations, A. H. H. EOUTE 67. STOCKHOLM TO CHEISTIANIA, BY CABL- STAD AND ARVIKA — RAIL.. Trains in about 18 hours. The most direct and convenient route, now almost exclusively used, is by rly., following the Western main line, to Gothenburg, as far as Laxa (Rte. 65), where the North-western main line branches off" to the Norwegian frontier and Christiania. From Stockholm to Laxa Junct. Stat, see Rte. 65. Here the main line branches off" to Wermland and Norway, on which are the following stations : — Hasselfors, 1 m. from Laxa. Svartd, 2 m. from Laxa. JDeger/ors, 3'2 m. from Laxa. Bjorneborg, 4.'5 m. from Laxa. Christinehamn, 5*6 m. from Laxa (Inn: Sociefatshuset), which town is reached in 7f hrs. from Stockholm. It has about 3600 inhab., and is chiefly remarkable for the great Fasting fair held here in the middle of March, at at which the iron-masters and timber producers of Wermland and Nericia make their contracts with the Gothen- burg merchants. The rly. has been opened to the W. of this town, tra- versing a country generally flat, but ex- hibiting some of the best specimens of Swedish farming, by Olme, WdsCy and Skatkdrr Stats, to Carlstad Stat. (Inn: Gastg'ifra- regarden. — This is the chief town of Wermland, the residence of the go- vernor, and the seat of a bishopric. Pop. about 5400. Iron, timber, and grain are the staples of export. In 84 feOUTE 61 — CARLSTAb. Sweden. 1865 the town was almost entirely burnt down, but is built up again in an improved style, and when the N. W. railway is completed, will, no doubt, become more important than ever. Greak Fair in July (Sers- messan. It is situated on the large island of Ting valla, formed by the mouths of the Clar river, at the head of the Wenern lake, and, during open water, has regular communication by steamers with the various towns on the shores of that lake, as well as through the Gotha canal, with Stock- holm and Gothenburg. The drives and walks in the neigh- bourhood of tlie town are numerous and very pleasing, amidst the vast pine forests, which border the lake and river. Those who are fond of Jishing and shooting will find this town I) good place for both. " Most of the birds common to the northern forests are found in the vicinity and amongst the reed-beds in the numerous in- lets of the Wenern, wild ducks are plentiful, as well as snipes. Excellent angling is also to be had in Wenern.'' — Lloyd, ' Field Sports in the North.' Salmon, pike, trout, &c., attain a large size here. Salmon also abound in the Clar river, but will rarely take either fly or other bait. The scenery of the upper part of the Clar river is highly picturesque ; it abounds in fine cataracts and rapids, and a road leads up its left bank, through- out the whole extent of the valley, towards Koraas in Norway. A very long distance in the same direction may be accomplished by taking steamer from Carlstad up the river as far as Lyclmn, tlience proceeding by rail a short distance to Frykstad, and fur- ther by steamer up the 10 m. course of the Tryken lakes to Thorsby at their upper end, a journey occupying alto- gether some 8 or 9 hrs. The interior of Wermland is rich in similar communications, both natural and artificial. Between Christinehamn and the loading-place of Sjodndan on llie liergsjo lake is a railway 1 m. long. This lake, by a navigable river, com- municates with the Ullvettern, Fro- vettern, and Alkvettern lakes, which latter, through the River Tims, flows into lake Mockeln, to the S.E. The latter also receives the River Svart, draining a number of lakes to the N., and empties itself by the River Let, to the S., into the great lake of Skagern, which through the Gullspang river joins Wenern, some miles S. of Chris- tinehamn. Ullvettern communicates to the N. with lake Ojevettern, this by a canal with Lake Aspen, and this by another canal with Lake Daglosen, at the N. end of which is the town of Philipstad, 2200 inhab. (Inn: Gast- gifvareganden), beautifully situated on a river, navigable still further N. as far as the Lersjo lake, and in the neighbourhood of the great iron- mines of Taberg, Pehrsberg, &c. To the N.E. again, Ojevettern is connected by a short tramway with the Ostersjon lake; this by another tramway with Lake Yngen, from which a tramway leads W. to Philipstad, another N. to Lake Langban, and another E. to the Saxen lake. In this manner the in- numerable mines, foundries, forges, farms, and forests, by which these lakes are surrounded, have easy means of communication with each other, as well as with Wenern, and through that lake and the River Gotha, with the North Sea. The scenery is gene- rally very picturesque along these routes, by making use of which the tourist, if not afraid to rough it a little, may explore large tracts of country in the mining districts of E. Wermland and W. Nericia; and the sportsman will find much good shooting and fish- ing. A steamer runs in summer be- tween Sjoandan and Philipstad, and from thence a road leads N. through much wild country, and skirting the immense forests between the Clar and W. Dal rivers, mentioned in Rte. 74, about 10 m. to Nxs, between Jerna and Floda on the road to Falun (see Rte. 74). To the S.W., the high road from Philipstad goes by Brattsfors, Sweden, EOUTE 68. — STdCKfiOLM 0:0 kALMO. 65 1 m. ; Uppperud, 2 m. ; and Prest- garden, If m. ; to Carlstad, 1^ m. A mail-coach leaves Carlstad daily, until this section of the N.W. rly. shall be completed, for Illherg, If m. •fPrestbohl, 1 m. Hogboda, IJ m. Fhmehdck, Ijgm. Lerohl, l■|^ m., and after a journey occupying about 10| hrs. arrives at iArvika, 1 J m. A market- town with 900 inhab., situated at the upper end of the Glafsfjord, which by the By river and Seffle canal communicates with the Lake Wenern, and along which steamers proceed, four times a week, to Amal and Gothenberg. In the neigh- bourhood are the fine and well-built estates of Wik, Skonvik, and Sundy to- gether with numerous iron and glass- works, &c. Here the N.W. rly. at present recommences, trains leaving Arvika daily for OUehol, 0-9 m. from Arvika. Amot, 1'9 m. from Arvika. Charlottenherg Stat., 3'2 m. from Arvika. This is the last station on the Swedish side. Hence the rly. con- tinues across the Norwegian frontier to KoNGSviNGEE and Christiania Stat., where the train arrives in about 7 hrs. from Arvika. (See Handbook f 07' Norway.) ROUTE 68. STOCKHOLM TO MALMO BY JONKOPING, WEXIO, CHRISTIANSTAD, YSTAD, HEL- SINGBORG, AND LUND. The whole of this distance, 67| m. (447^ Eng.j, is travelled by rail. The train from Stockholm follows the west- ern line as far as Falkoping (see Rte. 65), where it is joined by the train from Gothenburg, and jointly they proceed along the southern main line, through the remainder of West Goth- land and the provinces of Sm^land and Skane. The country at the commence- ment is veiy flat, but after passing by Wartofta and Sandhem's stats., the scenery improves for a short distance, and several country-seats are seen to the 1., as the rly. continues to and across the little Lake Straken, the shores of which are pretty. Again the country becomes flat until the train approaches the station of MuUsjo, 35*5 m. from Stockholm, 32 m. to Malmo, prettily situated by a small lake. After passing the next stat., Habo, the rly. approaches the S. end of the Wettern, over which, to the island of Wisingso and the coast of East Gothland beyond, fine views are now and then obtained. Midway on this stage is the curious old ch. of Habo, built of wood, with 3 naves, 2 vestries, and galleries like rows in a theatre. 'The walls inside exhibit some grotesque paintings from biblical history. Over the Dumme a, or river, the line passes into Smaland, on an embankment 60 ft. high, and shortly after enters Bankeryd Forest; then passes over Djupedal, a deep ravine extending down to the Wettern, which is still seen on the 1., when the view is not obstructed by cuttings through 86 EOUTE 68. — JONKOPING. Sweden. liills and rocks, of which there are many, until the train stops at JoNKoPiNG, 38*4 m. from Stockholm, 29'1 m. to Malmo, at the S. extremity of Lake Wettern, with a harbour and lighthouse, a large trade in corn, iron, and wood, several manufactories, in- cluding an extensive establishment for the fabrication of lucifer-matches, the neat and cheap little boxes of which are met with almost all over England and France. The town has a very central position in the S. of Sweden, and counts about 10,000 inhab. ; is the re- sidence of the governor of one of the three shires or districts into which the province of Smaland is divided, and the seat of the Superior Court of Jus- tice of Gotha, which holds its sittings in a fine old court-house, where there is a queer little juridical museum. Amongst other buildings of note, be- sides the ch. and ruins of an old castle, the most prominent is the new Hotel, charges very moderate, large, com- modious, and well kept. Travellers are obliged to stop all night here en route for Stockholm. It is a comfortable place to stop at, for any one who wishes to make excursions on the Wettern and in the neighbour- hood, or enjoy some good fishing and shooting. Besides being one of the principal stations on the southern rail- way, Jonkoping has ready means of communication in various directions. Steamers by way of Grenna, Hasthol- men, Wadstena. and Motala on the lake, to Stockholm; also to the same places on the lake, including Hjo and Askersund. Mail, coaches 3 times a week along the valley of the Nissa river, by the posting-stations of Jara, If m. ; Unnaryd, 2 m. : Orreryd, 1 J m. ; Norrlida, 1| m. ; Gislaved, 1 m. ; Kap- peled, 11 m. ; fBolaryd, IJ m. ; Nis- saryd, 1| m. ; Sjogard, 1| m. ; and Drahered, If m. ; to Halmstad, 2 m., on the Cattegat (see Rte. 69); also 3 times a week by the valley of the Laga River, and the posting-stats, of Barnarp, 1 m. ; Byarum, 2 m. ; Skil- ingaryd, IJ m., and Klefshult, 1 m. ; to the market-town of Wernamo, 2 m. ; and thence by Bohr, 1 m., Nederled, 2 m., and Hosjo, If m.* to Moheda, j^ m., rly. stat. Both these routes pass through much wild and picturesque scenery. For the roads to Grenna and Ulricehamn, see Rte. 78. The situation of Jonkoping is very pleasing. In its environs Sir eMariedaVs mineral spring and several country- seats, two little lakes, on one of which, the Munksjon, is Stora Limugnen, the summer promenade of the town, with a restaurant, in a beautiful spot at the foot of Dunkehallar heights, and pre- senting a charming view of the town, the lakes, and all along the eastern valley, with its little bays and groves of trees. Well worth seeing, also, is Munksjo paper-mill on the same lake, and the manufactory of matches. On leaving Jonkoping the train passes N. of the town, on a high embankment of enormous strength, to withstand the angry waves of the Wettern, when beating against it under the lash of a northern gale. Towards the S. rises the mountain of Taherg, 1129 ft. high ; gneiss, seamed with magnetic iron-ore, yielding as much as 32| per cent, metal. Farther on, in a deep dell on the 1., may be caught a glimpse of Husqvarna musket-factory, formerly belonging to the crown, but now pri- vate property, situated by a little river of the same name, which here makes a fall of 70 ft. Through a picturesque but difficult country the line leads on to the next station, Tenhult, 40 m. from Stockholm, 27-5 m. to Malmo, close to which is seen a monument, with an inscription to the effect that " on the 10th of February, 1611, the country people of Tveta Hun- dred, led on by the forester Michael, of Tenby, defeated a Danish army at this place." Between lakes, churches, and farms, the train progresses east- ward, past Forserum stat., to that of Ndssjo, 42*5 m. from Stockholm, 25 m. to Malmo. This is the highest rly. stat. in Sweden, 1044 ft. above the sea. Siveden, KOUTE 68. — WEXIO. 87 It is to be the junction with the eastern main line, which as yet is only completed to Norrkoping (see Kte. 69). From N'assjo is a mail-coach route, goes by Broarp, 12 m., to Eksjo, | m., an inland town with about 2000 inhab., near to whic^i is a remarkable fissure in the ground, 20 ft. wide and 128 ft. deep. The coach proceeds from Eksjo, by Ekeberg, 1 m., Ingatorp, 2 m., and Ki)dkulla, 1^ m., to Wimmerby, If m., another inland town of some 2000 in- hab., the centre of many agricultural estates and ironworks ; thence by Odes- torp, I m., Gronhult, 1}§ m., and Kar- by, If m., to Wester vik, If m., on the Baltic (see Ete. 69). At N'assjo the rly. turns southward, by the chateau of Ingarpsherg, on the rt., between the lakes of Runneryd and Ingberg, and into the Sm^land high- lands^ the train passing the stat. of Sandsjoy and stopping at Sdfsjo, 45'2 m. from Stockholm, 22'3 m. to Malmo, on the lands of Ekesjo Hofgdrd, where Svante Sture resided before he became administrator, and after him many notabilities, be- longing to the Lewenhaupt, Wrede, Lillie, De la Gardie, and other fami- lies. Further on is the stat. of Stocharyd, 46"2 m. from Stockholm, 21 '3 m. to Malmo, near Stockaryd's old ch«, with paintings on roof and walls like those at Habo. Toranas, Spexhulty Prinsnds, Prinsfors, Sdfsjo, Orshyliolm, and Lamhidt, are country- seats seen on the way from Nasjo. The train now passes by the stat. of Lam- liidt, and through a desolate district of bogs and woods, but rich in anti- quarian remains, to Molieda, 49*5 m. from Stockholm, 18 m. to Malmo, from whence there is communication by coach with Wer- namo and Jonkoping (see above). About here are several lakes, the bot- toms of which yield large quantities of bog-iron. In passing one of these, the Dansjo, which appears behind Gdf- vetorp Agricultural Institute, a huge cairn is observed on the opposite bank, which is connected with an old tra- dition of Blenda, at the head of the women of "Warend Hundred, having destroyed a Danish army which, du- ring the absence of the men, had in- vaded the country. In recognition of this service, the king on his return conferred on the women of Warend the privilege of inheriting equal shares with their brothers. The time of this occurrence is too remote for its truth to be vouched for by history, but cer- tain it is that of all women in Sweden those of Warend only, by ancient usnge, took equal shares in patrimony with the men, until the late King Oscar extended this privilege to all the country. The train next stops at Alfvesta, 50*6 m. from Stockholm, 16*9 m. to Malmo, where 15 minutes are allowed for refreshments. From hence a branch line, 1*7 m. long, di- verges eastward to Wexio, the only town in the shire of Kronoberg, and residence of its governor and a bishop, with about 3500 inhab., situated on the S. branch of the romantic Helga Lake. An- ciently a place of pagan sacrifices, St. Sigfrid, the apostle of Warend, caused a ch. to be built here, around which gradually rose a town. Ten times burnt down in the course of five centuries, Wexio now presents the appearance of a modern town, almost entirely rebuilt since 1843. The cathe- dral, restored by Professor Brunius, somewhat in the whitewash style, is 160 ft. long by 103 ft. broad, and en- closes the tomb of St. Sigfrid. It has an altarpiece by Schroder, a library of 14,000 volumes and 300 manuscripts, and a numismatic cabinet, with a bust of Linnaeus. The High School has a fine building assigned to it. The bishop's house is called Ostrahy, situ- ated just outside the town, at tiie end of an avenue of old trees. It is in- teresting as having been for many years the residence of Bishop Esaias Tegnir, the great national poet. Amongst re- markable places in the neighbourhood are the imposing ruins of Kronoherg^s 88 tlOUTE 68. — WEXIO. Sweden. castle, from which the shire takes its name, formerly called Bislwpsberg, a stronghold of the bishops, on an island in the lake, the ruins of Berggcard, another old castle in a bay of the lake, at one time belonging to Carl Carls- son Gyllenhjelm, the natural son of Charles IX. ; Kosta glass-manufactory, Lesseho paper-mill, several ironworks, EvedaVs mineral spring, with prome- nades, &c. A mail-coach leaves Wexio 3 times a week, j^roceeding by the posting- stats, of Areda If m., Lenhofda 2 m., Merhutt 1 m., Wilkol 2 m., Brana- hult 1| m., Nybro f m., Borseryd I m., and Harby 1| m., to Calmar 1| m., on the Baltic (see Rte. 69). The joui'ney takes 15 to 16 hrs. None of these stats, is fast, and travellers by post therefore should send "forbud"' (see Introduction). Another mail-coach leaves Wexio 3 times a week by the posting-stats, of Ingelstad Ig m., Urasa | m., Qvar- nemala IJ m., Djuramala Ih m., Kal- mar 1| m., Ronneby If m., and fSkil- linge 1^ m., for Carlskrona, on the soutli coast (see Rte. G9), making the journey in 16 hrs. Places in these coaches are paid with 1 rdr. per mile. Returning to Alf vesta rly. stat. there is still a branch-route to notice, run- ning in the opposite direction to that of the Wexio railroad. A mail-coach is despatched from Alfvesta 3 times a week by the posting-stations of Lyng- sasa 1| m., Nygard 1§ m., tLjungby, If m., fTroUestorp 1 m., fSkeen 1| m., Wra 1| m., Hilleshult 1 m., and Breared 1^ m, to Halmstad If m., arriving there in 17 hrs. The prevailing characteristic of the scenery on these routes is flat. Some hills occur, but not of great height; and these, with the broken ground, lakes, streams, and extensive woods, render some of the views en route very pleasing. The whole province of Smd- land, indeed, is intersected with lakes, presenting every variety of shape, some of them of considerable extent, and studded with small islands, as, for instance, ^the Helga, mentioned above ; the Asnen, not far from the road between Wexio and Carlskrona ; the Vido.stern, near Wernamo, along which and part of the River Laga, a road runs S. by Tanno 1 m., Dorarp 1| m., and Ingelstad 1^ Ai., to Ljung- by 2 m., where tlie river is crossed by the road from Alfvesta to Halmstad, and in the neighbourhood of which stat. the blackcock-shooting is well spoken of; the Bolmen, passed on the same road between Trollestorp and Skeen; the Salen, Straken, Mockeln, and a number of others. The train leaving Alfvesta for the S. passes by the stats, of Wieslanda and Liatorp^ having Lake Mockeln on the rt., while on the 1. lies the humble little cui'ate's cottage of Bdsliult, the birthplace of Linnaeus, in front of which an obelisk has been raided to his memory, and next halts at ElmJiult, 55 m. from Stockholm, 12'5 m. to Malmo, the last station in Smaland. The country about here is very poor and desolate. At GetabdcJc the rly. enters Skane. Oushy, 57 m. from Stockholm, 10*5 m. to Malmo. A little beyond this station the line crbsses the Helga river on an iron bridge, near the pretty Ousby lake, with its leafy shores and islands, but for the rest the country continues to wear a dreary and deso- late aspect, as if a curse was still upon the ground, ravaged for past centuries by Swede and Dane alike, when it was the border land between them. In this hundred of East Goinge were also the chief quarters of the Snapp- hanar, guerilla-bands of the utmost daring and activity, causing no end of trouble to Charles XL, when de- fending his father's conquests against the attacks of the Danish king. Hdst- veda Stat, is passed, and the train stops at Hessleholm, 59-8 m. from Stockholm, 7'7 m. to Malmo. The great high- ways from Jonkoping, Helsingborg, Lund, and Christianstad meet at this station, and a branch rly. extends in Sweden, ROUTE 68. — CHRISTIANSTAB. S.E. direction, 2*8 m., by way of Winstof, Onnestadj and some smaller intermediate stations for j Christianstad, residence of the go- vernor of the shire of that name, with 6500 inhab. Board and lodging at Werlin's and Johnsons hotels ; apart- ments at the usual prices of 1 to 1| rdr. per day. Carriages may also be had at these hotels, which are both in I the little square. Tivoli and Skjut- ■ hanan are the places of public resort in summer. This town is situated on a long and irregular fjord called Sjoviken, which forms the estuary of the River Helga, and has its outlet at Alius, the port of Christianstad, 2 m. dist. by land. It was founded by Christian IV. of Den- mark in 1614, and has been the scene of many a conflict in the later border wars. The fine regiment of Wendes horse-artillery has its head-quarters at this place, but the ancient fortifications have been, for the most part, demo- lished. 1 m. N. of the town are the powder-mills of Torssebro, in a pic- turesque spot on the Helga river, and E. of these are the lakes of Rabelof, Karsholm, and Ifo. On the banks of the first there is a deep and remark- able cave called Balsherg, in the belem- nite chalk ; on the W. margin of the second, the chateau of Karsholm, and in the third, an island of considerable size, with caves like that of Balsberg, though smaller, and on the neck of land between the Karsholm and Ifo lakes, lies the stately old-fashioned chateau of Beckaslwg, with its park and gardens, in a most beautiful situa- tion. It belongs to the king, who is very fond of spending part of the summer here, amongst the other great landed proprietors of Skane. The neighbourhood, as indeed the whole province, is full of aristocratic country mansions. S. of the Ifo lake, If m. E. of Christiansand, is Trolle-Ljungby, a large turreted chateau, surrounded with parks and gardens, and where may be seen the famous Ljungby horn and whistle, trophies, according to the legend, of an encounter with the elfs at Maglesten, a large enchanted stone on the sandy plain near Edenryd, and to which certain superstitions are at- tached. Vands, 2 m. N. of Christian- stad, is another splendid chateau, be- longing to the Wachtmeister family, and where tliere is a picture-gallery, with an Ecce Homo by Guido Eeni. The S. high road from Christian- stad goes by the posting-stations ol Nobbelof 1 m., Degeberga 1| m., Brosarp IJ m., and Rorum 1| m., to the little town of Cimbrishamn 1 m., on the coast, 1500 inhab. exporting considerable quantities of corn. At the fishing-village of Kivik, close by, is an ancient monument, which has been supposed to be of Celtic origin, but is considered by Professor S. Nilsson to represent ceremonies of Phoenician Baal-wortship. On the road between Nobbelof and Degeberga is the lordly castle of Widtshofle, built by Jens Brahe in 1553, remarkable for its extensive gardens and parks, and its old ghost stories. The estate at present belongs to Mr. Stjernsvard, and besides a breeding-stud and cattle farm, has large preserves for fishing and shooting, the deer being numerous. N.W. from this place is Maltesholm, another magnificent chateau, built in 1780 by Hans Ramel. From Cim- brishamn is 4 m., by Hemmenhog and Herrestad, to Ystad. Returning to the main line, the train, after leaving Hesselholm, skirts the pretty shore of Tinga lake to the rt., passing by the country-seat of Hofdala and Sosdala station. The line now approaches the most fertile parts of Skane, as it enters the county of Malmohus. The next station is Hoor, 62'5 m. from Stockholm, 5 m. to Malmo. A mail-coach leaves this place 3 days a week for Aby, on the road from Hessleholm to Helsingborg. The line continues along the beautiful Lake Ring, encircled with beech-woods, and bearing upon its shores the noble mansions of Bosjo-Kloster, Tulltofta, 90 ROUTE 68i — YSTAD. Sweden, Oushyholm, and others. Stehag's Stat, is passed by. In the neiglibourhood are the great estates of Trollends and Trolleholm ; BilUnge, with a very fine ch. ; Rostdnga, near to which is Odens- jon, an extinguished crater, and many other volcanic indications ; Herrevads- Moster, a large chateau near Aby (see above), and in immediate vicinity of the extensive camping-ground of JBo- narp's Heath. But few of these places, however, can be seen from the train, which stops at Eslof, 64*4 m. from Stockholm, 3*1 m. to Malmo. This is the most central rly. station in the province, and from here diverge branch-lines, in a S.E. and S. direction to Ystad, and in a W. and N.W. direction to Landskrona and Helsingborg. The former of these lines is 7 m. long, and trains run the distance in about 3 hrs. The stations on this line are : — 1. Hurfva, not far from Skarhult, one of the principal country mansions in the province, built in 1562 by the Danish general Rosensparre, with towers and an exterior wall. It has been in the possession of the Oxenstjerna, De la Gardie, and Brahe families, and be- longs at present to a Baron Schwerin. There is a good collection of pictures. 2. Loberod, near the chateau of that name, belonging to the De la Gardies. The view from here, in clear weather, extends as far as Copenhagen. Besides the well-known library and family ar- chives, this chateau contains many valuable collections of pictures, en- gravings, original sketches, antiquities, and other curiosa. 3. Askerod, 4. Bjersjolagard, 5. WoUsjo, in the neigh- bourhood of which is the chateau of dfvedslcloster; Christinehof^ and the extensive alum-works of Andrarum, G. Lofvestad, 7. Esperod, 8. Tomelilla, and 9. Kopinge. The country all along is exceedingly fertile and well cultivated. Ystad, a seaport on the S. coast of Skane, has about 6000 inhab. Hotel du Sud has accommodation for travel- lers. Communication by steamers with Stockholm, Lubeck, Copenhagen and Eonne, on the island of Bornholm. The town is an ancient one, and has had many ups and downs in its time. A celebrated convent of gray friars flourished here in the 13th centy., and its ch., dedicated to St. Peter, still remains. The ch. of Our Lady is equally old. At present the little town has a brisk trade for its size. There are some old houses in the Hanseatic fashion, an artificial har- bour, and a lighthouse of iron, 50 ft. high, which in 1866 was moved bodily 200 paces, to its present site, under directions of Major Adelshold, of the Royal Swedish Engineers. There are many grand country seats round about the town, Marsvinsholm, Bjeresjoholm, Krageholm, and a number of others well worth seeing. The nearest way to Christianstad by road is by the posting stations of Herrestad | m., Tra- nas. If m., and Brosarp IJ m., on the road from that town to Cimbrishamn (see above). Another Inroad goes from Ystad by the posting-stations of Snof- tarp 1^ m., Everlof 1| m., Veberod f m., Dalby 1 m., to Lund 1 m. For the high road to Malmo see under that town. The other branch rly. from Eslof is 3 m. to Landskrona, and 4*6 m. to Helsingborg, and at Landskrona goes by the stations of 1. Trollenas, near the beautiful chateau of that name (see above), 2, Marieholm, 3. Tecko- matorp, 4. Billeberga, where this line again divides, and 5. Asmundtorp, to Landskrona, a seaport town on the Sound, with about 7000 inhab., a citadel, and fine harbour, from which large quantities of corn are exported. Hotels : Dru/van, in Carl XV. torg, near the harbour, good ; Grona Lund, with gardens, Stora Vctrdshuset, with stables. There is a large sugar re- finery, an iron foundry, and machinery workshops, a woollen manufactory &c. The town has communication by steamers with Copenhagen daily ; with Gothenburg and intermediate ports on the W. coast, Malmo, and Sweden, ilOUTE 68. — HtJLSINGJ&ORG. 91 round by the S. and E. coasts all the way to Stockholm. Submarine tele- graph to Vebeck, on Seland. In the neighbourhood are several newly-discovered coal-fields, which seem to promise well. The large estate of Sdbyholm, with mansion and park, now belongs to the same com- pany as the sugar-mill in the town, and is exceedingly well i'armed : large quantities of beetroot are cultivated here for sugar-making. In the Sound, 1 m. off Landskrona, is the island of Hven, formerly the residence of the celebrated astronomer Tycho Brake, but of his castle, Uranienborg, or his observatory Stelleborg, no vestiges remain at the present day. From Billeberga Stat, the other branch of this line proceeds by 5. Tagarp, 6. Wallakra, passing by the chateau of Belteherga, and a coal-field, 7. Raus, near the thriving fishing- village of Bad, and 8. Ramlosa, near the fashionable watering-place of that name, to Helsingborg, a seaport on the straits of Elsinore, with about 7000 inhab. ; exports chiefly corn. Board and apart- ments at Hotel Mollherg, much im- proved, but dear ; best rooms, including . attendance, lights, and coffee-breakfast, 4 rdr. or 34 oe. per day. Carriages may be had here, as also at Hotel Oresund, for excursions in the neigh- bourhood. Steamers leave several times a day for Elsinore, whence there is rly. communication with Copen- hagen. The same coasting-steamers touch here as at Landskrona. It is a very old town, the scene of many im- portant historical events. A great battle was fought here on the 28th February, 1710, when Magnus Sten- bock, during the absence of Charles XII. in Russia, completely defeated the invading Danes. A monument marks the spot where Bernadotte first set foot on Swedish ground, just a hundred years afterwards. After a great fire in 1425, the town was re- moved by Eric XIII. to its present site. Before that time it was probably located around the old castle, which w,as finally demolished in 1680, but of which the keep still partly remains, in grim solitude, on a hill, from which the view over the Sound, the sur rounding plain, and the opposite shore of Seland, with Elsinore and Kronborg, is very beautiful, particu- larly at sunset. S. of this hill is the college, a very handsome modern building. The church is mediaeval, restored. In the vicinity are many interesting spots and fine mansions, and the drives along the shore are in constant view of the Sound, always lively with shipping in this channel, through which passes the whole commerce of the Baltic. The heights to the N. are covered with villas and gardens. At some little distance is Sophiero, a summer residence of Prince Oscar, de- lightfully situated on a slope overlook- ing the Sound ; further on the splendid chateau of Kulla-Gunnarstorp, and beyond this the neat little fishing-vil- lage of Viken. Here the road turns inland to Hogands, long time the only coal-mine in Sweden, yielding a very indifferent article ; lately the place has become more noted fur its pro- ductions of fine fayence-ware and of glass. It is 2J m. from Helsingborg. Still more to the N. is the chateau of Krapperup, and the coast runs out to a point, crowned with the mountain of Kullen and its lighthouse, all im- portant to the navigator in the Oatte- gat. S. of the town, h m. dist., is the watering-place of Bamlosa, mentioned above, well built, with charming scenery and views. All sorts of baths are prepared here, and the spring, which issues from the cleft in a sand- stone cliff, is said to bo a remedy against stomach complaints, rheuma- tics, and skin diseases. From hence the road continues along the coast, by RM and Glumslof, to Landskrona 2| m. Having thus described the rly. lines that branch out from Eslof, we return to that station to continue the route A HOUTE 68. — LUND. Sweden, by the Southern main-line to Malmo. ' The next station, Ortofta, is passed by, close to the chateau of the same name, as well as several other country mansions, and the train again stops at Lund, 66 m. from Stockholm, 1-5 m. to Malmo, Bishop's see and University town, with about 10,000 inhab. Hotels and restaurants : Stadshuset, in the great square, the Railway Hotel, and ^tadt Alona : there are livery stables at the first of these. This town is of high antiquity. It is situated in a plain of considerable extent, and through which runs the Hoje river, which in olden times was navigable up to the town. In the times of Paganism, Lund was a city of great commerce, with 80,000 Inhab. It was then surrounded with fortifications of wood, and filled with the booty amassed by the warlike Scanians in their pi- ratical expeditions. In the middle ages Lund was the seat of an archbishop, who was con- sidered the Primate of the North. The Scandinavian monarchs, within whose dominions this part of Sweden was formerly comprised, were elected sovereigns of Skane, on the hill of Sliparebacken, about J m. from the town. Christian II. appears to have been the last who observed this cere- mony. Near this hill and Wallkarra ch. a most sanguinary battle was fought 1st December, 1676, when Charles XL attacked and routed the Banes under Christian V., on which occasion upwards of 10,000 men pe- rished. So desolating were the wars waged in and about this rich province during the latter part of the 17th centy., that when Charles XII. took up his headquarters at Lund in 1716, the town had only 680 registered inhabitants. The chief object of attraction here is the University, which, with that of Upsala, are the only ones in Sweden. It was founded by Christian I. of Denmark, and opened with great pomp in 1479. Puffendorf, who, next to Grotius, is the great authority in matters of public law, was appointed Professor of the Law of Nature and Nations in this University in 1670, and here he published his celebrated work. Be Jurx Naturx et Gerdkim. The Library contains upwards of 80,000 volumes, besides 1000 manu- scripts, many of which are particularly interesting, as for instance the Necro- logium Lundense, and Liber daticus Lundensis, the oldest original Danish record existing. There are several museums ; the Historical is rich in antiquities of Sweden and Lapland, and so is the Numismatic collection in Anglo-Saxon and Eoman coins and medals; the collections of Natural History and Mineralogy also deserve notice. Before the Reformation there were no less than 6 monasteries and 21 churches here. Of the latter tliere are now but 2, besides the Cathedral, which is a large, irregular structure, built at different periods, and said to be founded in the 11th or 12th centy. It is 271 ft. long and 72 ft. high inside ; the roof is supported by 18 columns in 2 rows, and the perspective is parti- cularly striking, owing, it is said, to the ch. being wider at the west than at the east end, and the floor a little higher in the middle than at the sides. The organ is considered the best in Sweden. The pulpit of alabaster, in- laid with marble, and some of the tombs, relics, &c., preserved here, deserve notice. The crypt is, perhaps, the most remarkable part of this ancient edifice. It is 126 ft. long, 36 ft. broad, and 14 ft. high, resting on 24 massive pillars, and receiving light from 10 windows. In the crypt is a well with very good water. Not far from the cathedral, and in an equally open situation, is the palace- like building of the Academical Society, in front of which has been erected a bronze statue of Tegne'r, modelled by Qvarnstrom. Here is an art-museum, a splendid assembly-hall, a club called the Athenxum, where foreign news- Siveden. ROUTE 0^ -MALMO. SKANOE. 93 papers are kept, and travellers can be introduced by members; also a very good restaurant and cafe, open to the j)ublic. There are several pleasant parks and promenades about the town : Lun- dagdrd, Baby Park, Eelgondbaclien, the new Cemetery^ the old and new Botanical Gardens, Novilla, &c. At some little distance is Dalby, formerly the bishop's residence, with a fine old ch., and a crypt in which the Danish king Harald Hein lies buried. Further on rises up a solitary hill called Romeleklint, with extensive views from tlie top and the chateau of Bjornstorp at its base. Leaving Lund the train proceeds througli a vast and fertile^ plain, past the chateau of Trolleberg, Akarp Stat., and Alnarp agricultural institute, and arrives at the handsome terminus in Malmo, 67J m. from Stockholm, after a journey of 19J hrs. from the capital. This is the chief town of the shire of Malmohus, and residence of its governor ; population about 22,000. Situated on the Sound, in the midst of a flat but exceedingly fertile country, at the end of a long line of rly., with several manufactories, and a good, though small, harbour; it is a busy and flourishing town. Hotels, with restaurants and livery stables: Svea, in the fish-market, best; Ticks, and Giistaf Adolf, in the great square; apartments 1 rdr. 33 oe. to 2 rdr. (57 oe. per day. In former days Malmo was strongly fortified, and a place of much import- ance. The walls have been destroyed, but the castle remains, and is now used as barracks and a prison. Both- well, the third husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, was long imprisoned here. From the battlements, in clear weather, Copenhagen may be seen to the W. with the islands of Saltholm and Amager between. Of bull lings may be noticed St Peter's ch., built in 1313 in the pointed- arch style, next to the Lund cathedral, the most considerable ch. in Skane; the Caroli ch., built in the reign of Charles XL; the Town-hall, in the principal square, and a peculiar old house, belonging to Mr. Kockum. There are not any pleasant drives in the immediate neighbourhood of Malmo. The beech- woods of Torup are 2 m. to the E., the chateau and gardens of Skabersjo, 1| m. in S.E. Steamers leave Malmo several times a day for Copenhagen, and daily for Lubeck and Stralsund (see Kte. 80) ; twice a week for Gothenburg, calling at intermediate ports on the coast, and once or twice a week for Stockholm, calling at intermediate ports along the coast. The road from Malmo to the N. goes by Lomina 1| m., Loddekoping 1 m., and Saxtorp 1 m., to Landskrona 1 m., and to the S.E. by Klorup 2 m., Anderslof 1 m., and Skifvarp 1^ m., to Ystad IJ m. Many large estates are passed on this road. At Klorup a road branches off S. to Trellebokg, a small sea-port, ship- ping out considerable quantities of corn, but otherwise uninteresting. The submarine telegraph-cable to Stralsund is laid down here. W. of this town is 2 m. to Skanor and Falsterbo, two very small towns on a neck of land jutting out from the S.W. corner of Sk^ne. Both are places of great antiquity, and there is an old saying, that " at the birth of Christ, Skanor and Lund were flourishing." In the middle ages the herring-fishery brought riches, but the fish has long since disappeared, and the quicksand has nearly buried the towns. Still there are several ancient remains of interest, especially the two churches, which are held in great ve- neration by the country people around, especially that of Falsterbo, now partly imbedded in the sand. That of Skanor has a crypt, Lke the cathedral of Sund and the ch. at Dalby, and a curious old font. The towns are neat and , trim, and mostly inhabited by sea- 94 ROUTE 69. — STOCKHOLM TO CHRISTIANSTAD. Sioeden. faring people, who earn their living by sailing from other ports. Off Fal- sterbo there is a long and dangerous reef. Hares and foxes are hunted on the adjoining heath, and wild swans are plentiful, especially in the bay N. of the peninsula. EOUTE 69. STOCKHOLM TO CHRISTIANSTAD ALONG THE COAST, BY NORRKOPING, CALMAR, AND CARLSKRONA. Steamers leave Stockholm twice or three times a week for all the prin- cipal places on this route, under each of which they will be further noticed. By road the distance is 69 m. (458 Eng.), and the general aspect of the scenery is too monotonous to repay the toil of so long a journey all the way. The posting-road from Stockholm to Norrkoping, 171 m., has already been described under Nykoping (see Kte. 65), and so far there is now a rly., which is used in preference. The fast trains from Stockholm reach Cathrine- liolm in 3| hrs. (see Kte. 65), from which station the Eastern main line diverges in a S. direction, to Strdrigsjo, 1 m. from Cathrineholm. Simonstorp, 2*3 m. from Cathrine- holm. Past the lakes of Flaten and Svinbogen, the line now enters the 3:reat forest of Kolmorden, formerly the boundary between Sodermanland and East Gothland ; during the middle ages in bad repute for its brigands and outlaws, but now cut through by roads in all directions. The next station is Grafvensforss, 3"4 m. from Cathrine- holm. The line now runs a short distance, close by the pretty Lake Nakna, and crossing 5 of its bays, to Ahy, 3*7 m. from Cathrineholm, and in view of the Br&viken fjord on the 1., to Norrkoping, 4*5 m. from Cathrine- holm, 16'9 m. from Stockholm. Sea- port at the head of Braviken, a long fjord from the Baltic, where it receives the waters of the Motala river, aug- mented by its passage through the large Lake Glan, and in its impetuous course forming rapids and cascades, the motive power of numerous mills, which have made Norrkoping the chief manufacturing town of Sweden. Po- pulation about 22,000. Hotels in Carl Johans torg and Skeppsbron ; private lodgings in several houses ; apartments 1 rdr. to 3 rdr. per day. Eestaurants and cafes in Stadshuset, a fine new building in the great square, the centre of which is ornamented with a statue of Charles XIV., and at hotel W 6 (pronounced vesex). Carriages sup- plied by Mr. 0. M. Bjorkqvist. Norr- koping was entirely burnt down by the Kussians in 1719, and again suffered by four great fires in the first quarter of the present century. It is there- fore now essentially a modern town and consequently spacious, and gene- rally well built, though it iDoasts of no very striking edifices, except the new College, which is a noble building, erected on an eminence, at the top of a broad street. Several bridges cross the stream, which is divided by two islands, the Laxholm and the Bruks- holm. The coronation of the great Gustavus Adolphus took place in this town. Manufactures and commerce, ship- building and navigation, are the chief occupations of Norrkoping. The prin- cipal among its numerous factories are Holmen for woollens, cotton goods and paper, Brag^ SmedjeJiolm, and Bergshro Siveden, ROUTE 69. — NORRKOPING. WESTER VIK. 95 for woollens, NorrMping for cotton goods, Gryt and Berg for cotton yarn, Malcolm's for machinery, Grepen for sugar, Thornshag for cotton yarn and broadcloth, Lithografisha for printing, playing-cards, and paper, besides many others, including hosiery, snuff, soap, and starch manufactories. There is a great wool fair held in the month of July, and a public warehouse, where wool is stored on warrants. Of the 3 shipbuilding yards, Nya Varfvet, Gamla Varfvet, and Motala Varf, the two latter belong to Motala, and here the Swedish monitors are built. Besides manufactured goods, the ex- ports comprise corn, dairy produce, iron, and deals ; the imports consist of the usual colonial produce, cotton, wool, coals, wine, &c. Steamers leave for Stockholm, by way of Sodertelje and intermediate stations three times a week ; passage 10 hrs., and in a S. direction twice a week, for Westervik, Oscarshamn, Monsteras, Borgholm, and Calmar; passage 18 hrs. Kolmorden's Marble quarries are 1^ m. E. of Norrkoping, and at an equal distance in S.W. the chateau of Lofsta, originally built by field-mar- shal Axel Lilje, and afterwards in the possession of the families De la Gardie and Tersen. It has a library of nearly 8000 volumes, and in the park there is a monument to Count Axel Tersen, the friend of Marie An- toinette, who acted as coachman in the attempted flight of Louis XVI. to Vin- cennes, and subsequently was brutally murdered by an excited mob in Stock- holm in 1810. The most magnificent chateau in the neighbourhood of Norr- koping is, however, Finspong, on Lake Glan, 2f m. from the town, formerly in possession of the Counts De Geer, now the property of Mr. Carl Ekman. The library here is considerable ; like- wise the picture gallery, with paint- ino's attributed to Titian, Guido, Keni, Kubens, and Jordaens. There is also a tlieatre and a chapel with organ in one of the wings. The park is not very extensive, but there is quite a little town of comfortable dwellings for the large number of workmen em- ployed in the cannon and other foun- dries, bar-iron forges, blasting furnaces, rolling-mills, engine factory, and saw- mills, belonging to the estate. A mail-coach leaves Norrkoping 3 times a week by the post-road to the S., the first station being •fSoderkoping, 1^ m. (See Kte. 66.)^ and in succession : Froherga^ 1 m. The country is very pretty all the way to Gusum, 2 m. About midway from here the county of Calmar is entered, nearly one-half the surface of which is occupied by bays of the Baltic, innumerable lakes and extensive woods. A short mile S. E. of the station, at the head of one of those bays, is the little port of Waldemars- vik, Ta loading-place for deals, and on an island in the bay is FdgelviTc, the country-seat of Charles VIII. before he became king. KnappehuUa, If m. Skedshult, 1 m. Wida, 2 m. Upon this stage the road winds along the W. shore of the Gam- leby bay, and the coach stops for half an hour at the post-office of Gamlehy, a small loading-port, where there is an inn and steamboat communication with Westervik 4 times a week. Seglerum, 1| m. Westervik, Ig m. A thriving sea- port town, with about 5000 inhab., builds ships and exports corn, iron, and deals. Board and lodging at Stadshuset, In the neighbourhood An- harsrum's iron-works, 2^ m. ; Wirum's copper-works, belonging to an English company ; the chateau of Casimirsborg and others, Fukeberget with a remark- able cave, &c. Steamers to Norrkoping twice a week ; to Oscarshamn, Monsteras, Borg- holm and Calmar, twice a week; to Stockholm twice a week, passage 18 to 20 hrs. ; these steamers, on their return from Stockholm, proceed south- ward and all round the coast, some 96 ROUTE 69. — OSCARSHAMN. Sweden. as far as Landskrona; others up to Gothenburg. To Gamleby 4 times a week. In winter time the mails are dispatched from this port to Wisby in the island of Gothland, by an ice-bruak- ing steamer, constructed at Motala. There is also telegraph communication between the two places by means of a submarine cable. The mail-coach leaves Westervik once a week for the posting-stations of Lund, 2 m. Getterum, 2| m. Jshult, If m. Jemserum, 1| m. From hence the road approaches the coast and skirts it all the rest of the way to Cal- mar. The small islands all down this part of the coast are innumerable, most of them low and barren, or covered with stunted fir and pine. At a little distance E. from this stat. is the small port of Figeholm^ at the N. end of the long and narrow channel, inter- vening between the mainland and the island of Oiand, which from hence re- mains in sight from the road. The next stat. is fOscARSHAMN, 2 m. A seaport town since 1856, with 2700 inhab., formerly known under the name of Doderhults- vik. The town possesses above 40 merchant-vessels, and exports deals, iron, and corn. Hotels, restaurants, and cafes : Societetshuset and Lindgrens. Carriages at the latter. In the neigh- bourhood are the country mansions of Wirho, Frederiksherg, and Falleho, and off the town, in Calmar Sound, a rock called Jungfrun, wiiere Claes Horn, in 1564, gained a great naval victory over the Danes. The steamers to and from Stock- holm and Norrkoping touch here. The coach proceeds S. to Pdskallavik, 2 m., a small port on the Calmar sound. ■fMonsterdSjl^ m., a loading-port with 1200 inhab., where the coach stops 45 min. ■\*Alem, 1^ m. ^Bysshy, 2 m. From hence a road leads E. to Refsudden, 1 m., and thence by a ferry, ^ m. across the sound, to Stora Eor in Oland. The next stat. on the road is t Calmar, 1| m. This is the chief town of the shire of that name, and residence of its governor and a bishop, with about 9000 inhab. WUVs hotel, with table d'hute, is the best ; apart- ments 1 rdr. to 2 rdr. per day, at the stat. Inn meals are served a la carte, and apartments 1 rdr. and 1 rdr. 25 oe. ; at Aspelins restaurant is a table d'hote and cafe', and another cafe at the Theatre. The town lias many manufacturing establishments and a considerable trade. It is situated in the narrowest part of the sound, which is here not more than 5 Eng. m. across to Oland. The suburb on the main- land occupies the site of the very old town, which was burnt in 1647. The present town was then built on the small island of Qvarnholm, and com- municates with the mainland by a bridge of boats. The Cathedral, placed in the centre of the principal square, is a handsome building, designed by Count Tessin, with 4 small turrets, but very little of the ecclesiastical in its architecture. There is a fine altar- piece painted by Ehrenstrahl, and a richly sculptured pulpit. The con- sistorial Library contains many inte- resting manuscripts. Few places have been objects of more contention than the Castle and the old fortified town around it, looked upon as the key of Sweden in the days when Bromseback, between Sm&land and Bleking, was the frontier of the kingdom. It has stood 11 sieges, and wit- nessed many other memorable events. By whom it was originally founded no one knows ; but already in Birger Jarl's time it was the residence of his son Eric, Duke of Smaland. Fief and title afterwards devolved on Eric, son of Magnus I.; Eric, son of Magnus II., and Eric, son of Gustavus I. Hei^, iu 1132, Sk^ne, Halland, and Bleking, were acquired for Sweden, though afterwards lost again through the pu- Sweden, ROUTE 69. — BORGHOLM. 97 sillanimity of Magnus II.; and here, on 20th July, 1397, was signed, and in 1438 and 1482 confirmed, that cele- brated Act of Union between the Northern kingdoms which, spite of all, would not hold them together. Many indignities, as well as calami- ties, has that famous old castle under- gone. Gustavus III. turned it into a distillery, a trade then monopolised by the crown, and the reputed Hall of Union became the still-room, the throne of queen Margaret having previously been disposed of for a few dollars. Gustavus IV. converted it into a gra- nary. On the chief tower, where of old a large gilt globe had shone far over land and sea, an ignoble windmill was erected, but afterwards taken down again. It was reserved for king Oscar to rescue what remained of this vener- able pile, and commence the restora- tion of its interior, which has since been continued, though slowly. The bedroom of Eric XIV., panels and doors decorated with inlaid work by his own hands, is again seen as it was, and two other large rooms, exhibiting art-devices of the 16th centy,, are in progress. Steamers two or three times a week to Oscarshamn, Westervik, Stockholm (in about 24 hrs.) ; Norrkoping (in 18 hrs.) ; Liibeck (in 24 hrs.) ; Copen- hagen (in 24 to 30 hrs.), calling at in- termediate ports on the coast ; Carls- krona, Carlshamn, Ahus, Ystad, Malmo, Landskrona, Helsingborg, and Gothen- burg (in about 48 hrs.) once a week ; to Wisby (in about 12 hrs.), and on every week-day to places on the adjacent coasts, at small fares, among which to BoEGHOLM, the little town on the island of Oland, either direct or by landing at Fdrjestaden, opposite to Calmar and posting along the coast, some 4 m. to the town. Its chief at- traction is Borgholm Castle, a beautiful ruin of very ancient date, last inha- bited by Charles X., before Christina placed him on the throne. Oland is 16 m. long by only | to 1 J m. wide, and ISwedenJ] contains an area of about 12 Swedish square miles, with some 45,000 inhab. It is a Silurian limestone formation, rising out of the sea and the innu- merable windmills along its middle ridge, have a peculiar appearance from the opposite shore. The ridge is double, and the hollow between is in the S. scarcely covered by a thin layer of earth, full of gaping cracks, and in summer sometimes as hot as Sahara ; in the N. it is covered with large woods, abounding in game, including, it is said, deer, roe, and wild boar. The island has been famous for its breed of ponies, not more than 3 ft. high, but the race is now almost extinct, and both agriculture and cattle breeding are much behind the times. Never- theless the slopes from the central ridge, under the influence of a genial climate, present to the view a luxu- riant vegetation in groves, corn-fields, and meadows, and much corn is ex- ported. The island is rich in antiqui- ties : stone settings, called ship-forms, ruins of fastnesses (Ismanstorp) and other remains, besides old churches, still standing. Coins and ornaments have been frequently dug up from the ground. At the south end is Morhy- Idnga, a considerable market-place, and in its neighbourhood the remarkable runic stone at Carlevi, the extensive alum-works of Oland and Lofver, and the royal breeding stud of Ottenhj, There are good roads and villages throughout the island, and both the sportsman and lover of antique church architecture will find ample occupation here. From Calmar the mail-coach pro- ceeds S. by the posting stations of *Wassmoldsa, 2 m. In this part of the province the scenery changes, and but few lakes occur. The country conti- nues level, and the road, keeping close along the coast, crosses numerous small streams. *Warnahy, 1 m. Soderdkra. The relays are at Pcl- hoda, 1| m., a little further on. *Br6ms, 1^ m. The road here enters F 08 ROUTE 69. — CARLSKRONA. CARLSHAMN. Sweden, the province of Bleking, in crossing a small stream called Bromseb'ack. This province is formed by the S. slopes of the Smaland highlands, down which their accumulated waters discharge themselves by several rivers into the sea, throusjh a country as remarkable for the beauty of its nature, as of its inhabitants, especially in the midS'^. Gertrude, have left but few remains, St. Peter, St. James, St. Michael, as well as the castle of Wisborg, have disappeared altogether, but many of the old houses, constructed by the wealthy merchants of Wisby in the days of her splendour, survive and are highly picturesque. It is not Wisby only that is so inter- esting to the lover of Gothic archi- tecture. There are upwards of 100 churches in the island, mostly of the 11th and 12th centuries, which are generally in a good state of preserva- tion, and very instructive examples of those periods. Gotland is the largest island in the Baltic, being about 80 Eng. m. long, by 33 at the widest part. It is a lime- stone formation, and averages from 85 to 140 ft. above the level of the sea. The climate is very temperate; the walnut, mulberry, and grape ripen in the open air ; the flora generally is very tempting to the botanist, and a variety of vegetables thrive here which, will not grow on the adjoining con- tinent. But little rain falls in sum- mer. The sunsets are most gorgeous.. The population of the island exceeds 56,000 ; a kind-hearted and obliging race, amongst which, owing to their- isolated position, old legends and usages, games and superstitions, have lingered longer than in most parts of the mainland, to which it presents, another contrast in its peculiar dialect. The constitution is also in some re- spects different, particularly as regards the defences, consisting here of a national militia of about 9000 men, which is well drilled, and cannot be called away from the island. Largo country seats there are none, but the houses of the rural population are roomy and comfortable, and mostly built of stone. There are no railways, and only one diligence between Wisby and the bathing-place of Klintehamn ; for the rest, travelling is performed by post-horses and in the carts of the country or in private carriages, of which there are now-a-days a supply on hire at Wisby. The means of sub- sistence are principally agriculture and stock-rearing, — both of them rather primitive in their condition. Sheep, however, are abundant, and mutton an article of export. The native horses are small but hardy; in some places they are half- wild, grazing in the open all the year round, and only seeking shelter at the homesteads when it is very cold. These animals are called Buss. Woods are pretty abundant, except in the S. part of the island, and there is plenty of game in them ; snipe- shooting is excellent. The roads througliout the island are very good. Numbers of ancient ornaments and Anglo-Saxon, as well as Arabian, Per- sian and other coins, have been and are still, at intervals, found in this island. A journey at leisure round the island would no doubt prove interest- ing to the ecclesiologist, who would, in its course, meet with such treasures of antiquity as the churches of Lojsta, Sweden, ROUTP: 80. — STRALSUND TO MALMO, 131 Fide, Ldderbro and their contents, not to mention a host of others. In the neighbourhood of Wisby are several pretty places of modern con- struction, such as Ldnna, Fridhem, the summer residence of Princess Eugenie, near Hogklint, the highest point of- Gotland, with its deep cave Getsvdltan, Nygdrd, Suderhj, Bosendal, Halffreda, Stafva, Roma and others, and in more distant parts of the island the fortified harbour of Slite, and the loading-places of Fdrosundy Ljugarn and Ronehamn on, the E. coast ; the island of Fdro (Sheep Island) off the N., and the rock of Hoberg on the S. point of Gotland ; Durgvik's and Klintehamn's loading- places on the W. coast, and the two little Carls Islands, near to which King Waldemar's treasure-ship, with the chief plunder of ancient Wisby, was engulfed by the avenging waves. ROUTE 80. STRALSUND, STETTIN, OR LUBECK TO MALMO OR STOCKHOLM. In the Handbook for North Germany will be found a description of the Route from England to Stralsund. There the traveller to Sweden will find a fast and commodious mail-steamer starting at an early hour every morning, during summer, directly after the arrival of the train from Berlin. In fair weather the passage to Malmb — about 100 nau- tical miles — is accomplished in 7 or 8 hrs., and on the steamer's arrival at the last-mentioned place, a fast train is in readiness to set off for Gothenburg and Stockholm. Fares by these steam- ers are : 12 rdr. first class ; 8rdr. second class ; 6 rdr. third class ; children under one year pay nothing; from one to 12 years half-fare. Every full ticket en- titles the holder to free conveyance of 100 lbs. weight of luggage ; excess of weight is charged at the rate of 1 rdr. 42 oe. per centner. Meals and refresh- ments are paid for as required, accord- ing to tariff. Passengers arriving by train have their luggage carried on board the steamers free of charge. The Royal mail-steamers serve on this route. Returning from Malmo by these steamers, after arrival of the train from Stockholm in the morning, the tra- veller, on his arrival at Stralsund, finds a train by which he can reach Berlin at 6 p.m. the same day, and thence con- tinue his journey in the evening by express trains to Cologne, in 30 hrs., London, Paris, Basle, Frankfort, Leip- zig, Hamburg, Vienna, Petersburg, &c. These express trains are due, from de- parture of the steamer from Malmo : At Cologne in 30 hrs. „ Paris . „ 42 „ „ London „ 54 „ (including Channel passage). Malmo is described in Rte. 68. Since the completion of the great railway lines in Sweden, the sea-routes from Stettin and Lubeck to Stock- holm are not so frequently made use of as formerly. A steamer leaves Stettin for Stockholm and vice versa once a fortnight, from midsummer till the end of October. Fares : for saloon place and 100 lbs. of luggage, 27 rdr. ; for deck place and 30 lbs., 13 rdr, 50 oe; children under 12 yrs. half- price: extra weight of luggage, 1 Prussian thaler (3 sh.) for 100 lbs. ; dogs 8 rdr. Steamers run twice a week between Lubeck and Stockholm, calling at Calmar and sometimes at Ystad and Norrkoping. Fares: the whole dis- tance, 4 rdr. Ist, and 30 rdr. 2nd- 132 ROUTE 81. — STOCKHOLM TO TORNEA. Sweden. class; children under 12 yrs. half- price ; under 2 yrs. free. Passage 44 to 50 hrs. EOUTE 81. FROM STOCKHOLM TO HAPARANDA, BY GEFLE, LULEA AND TORNeI. — BY LAND, AND BY STEAMER UP THE BALTIC. ^ A. — By Land. From Stockholm to Haparanda, the frontier town on the top of the Gulf of Bothnia, the distance is about 600 English miles by sea; and as it lies just below the Arctic Circle, the jour- ney thither, one of the easiest which can be made in Sweden, is frequently undertaken for the purpose of seeing the midnight sun, or rather the sun at midnight, and is strongly recommended to all travellers who can spare the time, say 14 days at most, there and back. The road-journey presents many dis- advantages. The continual driving day after day over heavy sandy roads is extremely fatiguing, takes up much time, and is very expensive. Lapland is entered by this route, either from LuleS. or Haparanda ; the former offers the best accommodation. See Route 82. If it be intended to enter Russia, care should be taken to have the pass- port vise in Stockholm, by the Rus- sian minister or consul. The N. of Sweden abounds in moun- tain rivers, having for the most part their sources in the great barrier mountain-chain, and all emptying themselves, after a more or less wan- dering course, into the Gulf of Both- nia. The principal of these are the Ljusne, Njurunda, Indal, Angerman, Urne and Vindel, Skellefte, Pite, Lule, Kalix, and Torne rivers, the last, with its confluent Muonio, forming the boundary towards Russia, Many of these, particularly the Lule, form falls of great height. Indeed, the whole coast, from Gefle northwards, presents a vast range of cataracts, by which the various mountain-streams bring their tribute to the sea. Trout abound in all these rivers, and salmon likewise, wherever they can enter them. B. — By Sea up the Gulf of Bothnia, During the summer and autumn months there are 2 lines of well- appointed steamers running the whole distance weekly from the Skepshron, Stockholm, to Haparanda. The first are large, roomy, paddle- boats, with spacious saloons, a piano and bath-room. The food is excellent, and very reasonable, averaging (wine included) about 5s. per diem ; and as they never lose sight of land, but wend their way through islets and fiords, there need be no dread of sea-sickness. They stop at one, and sometimes two, towns every day, making a stay of from 2 to 4 hours at each, according to the amount of cargo to be taken in or deposited, thus enabling the travel- ler to land and view the place. Due notice of the length of each stoppage is chalked up on a black board suspended to the side of the gangway as soon as the ship touches the quay, and 3 loud whistles, with 5 minutes' interval between each, give warning of her departure. All the northern ports in the Gulf of Bothnia will be found to be sur- rounded by steam sawing-mills, which are not only employed in making Sweden, ROUTE 81. GULF OF BOTHNIA. 133 planks from the timber brought down by the rivers, but also in cutting out door and window frames and other small woodwork for exportation, which are now so much used in England. High up the Gulf the water becomes nearly fresh, and pike, perch, and a large kind of roach, may be caught over the ship's side at every stopping place. The scenery is very striking, gra- dually increasing in wildness and beauty as the verge of the Arctic Circle is approached. The whole dis- tance to Haparanda occupies nearly 6 days. Fare— 50 dollars, without food ; stewardess and waiters, 3 dollars each. The second line are small screws, which run straight up the Gulf of Bothnia to Eathan direct, thus short- ening the journey by 2 days. The fares by both lines are the same, but the accommodation of the second is far inferior to the first, and the 36 hours of open sea is an objection to many. ' Carriages are taken by them, but the charges are high. As a rule, they do not carry cattle. If the midnight sun be the travel- ler's main object, he should leave Stockholm by the steamer starting on the 16th or 17th June for Haparanda, from which a carriage can be procured for Ava Saxa, driving the whole dis- tance, about 40 miles, in one day. Nothing extra need be provided for this journey, which can be made with- out the slightest fatigue or discomfort of any kind. But if fishing and shooting be de- sired, then the traveller should disem- Ijark at Lulea, and take Route 82 up that river to Quickjock, making his arrangements so as to arrive at Luled about the latter end of August. The steamers for the Gulf of Both- nia leave the Skepsbron at Stockholm (oflSce for tickets close by) in the even- ing, but early enough for the traveller to admire the magnificent scenery all the way down to the Baltic, which, lit up by the many-coloured rays of the Northern twilight, make the views most striking, especially those between Stockholm and Waxholm, commencing with the beautiful Djiirgardens on the left. After leaving Waxholm it be- comes wilder, the water on each side trying, as it were, to force its way up into the land. The open sea is reached in 6 hours, and will be found to be quite smooth, unless there be a strong wind from the south-west. After 2 hours' steaming, passing the Aland Islands where Bomarsund once stood, the track seems to be lost amongst islets and rocks until Graso is seen on the right. This long island, with a lighthouse at either end, acts as a breakwater to the pretty little village of Oregrund, on the mainland to the left. Our Baltic fleet drew their prin- cipal supplies of fresh provisions from this place in the Russian war (1854). In another couple of hours the steamer turns into the Bay of *Gefle, at the head of which stands the town of that name (see Rte. 69). This unbroken journey of 12 hours is the longest one on the whole route. The steamer is now coaled for the last time ; at every other place wood is used, as it is so much cheaper ; much time, however, is occupied in taking on board the amount required, and the encumbrance of the deck with large stacks on each side the funnel is not pleasant. There is a railway from Gefle to Falun, the mining capital of the black country ; travellers desirous of making a tour in the Dalecarlia district disembark here. In about 6 hours the town of Soder- hamn opens to view— a poor, straggling place, prettily situated. It has 3260 inhabitants ; exports large quantities of timber and iron. From this towa there is a short railway to Bergwik sawmills, on the lake of tliat name, and from its outport Sandarne, another to the Mar- ma sawmills, on that lake. Hudiksval is reached in 6 hours more, 2 of which are spent in steaming up the fiord ; splendid scenery. It is an old town, which has evidently seen better days, at the side of a large bay, surrounded by ^an aged collection of 134 ROUTE 81. — GULP OF BOTHNIA. Sweden* wood stores. The streets are narrow, with red, overhanging houses on each side. The principal church large and ugly. Its inhabitants do not bear the best of characters amongst their own countrymen. It contains 2850 inhab., and is a shipping-place for large quan- tities of timber and iron, besides carry- ing on the Stromming fishery, a small fish, somewhat larger than a sprat. They are cured like herrings, and are in great request amongst all classes. There is a railway to Forssa, on lake Dellen, which latter is navigated by three steamers— one to Forssa sawmills, the others to Movik's blast-furnace, Frig- gesund's sawmills, and Delsbo ch., whence another railway communicates with Ljusdal, on the river Ljusne. Kound about are ironworks, sawmills, and other works, for the most part in picturesque situations. Another 5 hours, and the steamer touches at Sundswall. This important and rising place is the starting-point for those who wish to cross the moun- tains to Drontheim, in Norway (see Route 74). It has a large Market Place, with fine public buildings and churches. The best hotel is in the Market Place. The numerous villas scattered around the bay show its pros- perity. It has 5000 inhab., and exports timber, iron, and fish. Its sheltered situation favours the growth of a variety of trees, which form an agre- able change to the endless fir-forests. The oak and the apple-tree cease growing at this latitude. Many iron- works and sawmills exist in the neigh- bourhood, and there is a railway to Nedansjo, on the Njurunda river. Steamers go direct to Stockholm in 22 hours — the Sundswall on Tuesd., and the Gustaf II. Adolf on Saturd. at 4 p.m. Other steamers to Hemosand, Nyland, Solleftea, Skonvik, Svartvik, Wifjsta, and a variety of places. To Hemosand in about 4 hours, a seaport town and bishop's see, with 3250 inhab., and residence of the governor of "Wester-Norrland. The new cathedral and schoolhouse, the bishop's residence, and the theatre, are handsome buildings. Steamers leave for Stockholm two or three times a week, and ^daily for Solleftea, on the magnificent Angerman river, navigable 9| Sw. miles from its mouth, and tra- versing the province of Angermanland, which, notwithstanding its northern la- titude, has been called the '* Garden of Sweden/' At Solleftea it is joined by the Taxel river; and about this place nature and cultivation combine in producing a scenery equalling the most picturesque valleys of the Neckar or the Rhine. The salmon are numerous in this river, which forms many noble cascades and rapids in its course to the sea. To Orsnovik in about 9 hours. One hour is occupied in steaming up this lovely bay, surrounded by rocks of red granite, which stand out from the dark-green pines in the background. It is one of the prettiest-looking places on the route, lying at the head of the bay on a gentle slope, with high hills on every side. It has no church as yet, having only lately risen into im- portance. It is a small seaport, with 300 inhab., custom-house, post-office, &c. At this station excellent sam- ples of the linen manufactured in the country around may generally be found. The best qualities are beau- tifully fine, and very cheap. The pro- ducts of these hand-looms are sold all over Sweden. To JJmed in about 6 hours. The steamer stays at the port, the town itself being some distance up the bay. Large trade in wood. The tra- veller is astonished at the sight of a regular English-looking church, lately erected at the expense of Mr. Dickson, the celebrated Gothenburg merchant, who owns much property here. To Ratlian in about 5 hours. The Holmen Isles are left on the right, the passage between them and the mainland offering many interest- ing views. Rathan, a desolate-looking hamlet, is protected from the sea by a small island. Here the traveller seems to be approaching the Arctic regions ; Sweden, ROUTE 81. — GULF OF BOTHNIA. 135 stunted fir and birch blend with nu- merous moss-covered rocks, and form a picture of weird wildness. There is a small inn, together with a telegraph- tstation. Close by, on an eminence, stands a cross of iron, raised to the memory of a Swedish colonel and his men, who were treacherously murdered in the last war between Sweden and Russia. A party of the latter made a foray during the winter across the frozen Gulf, and arrived almost dead with fatigue and privation. They were received by their enemies with every kindness, and nursed with such care that most of them recovered, when they rose upon their benefactors and killed every one of them. The body of the colonel was placed just under the cross, with his men in a circle round him. One of the houses still bears the marks of the Russian bullets. To Shellefted in about 6 hours. The navigation now becomes more Intricate ; rocks and half-sunken islets seem often to bar all further progress, and the steamer's course is then staked out with bare fir-poles, a tuft of green being left at the top to attract atten- tion. Steam sawmills seem to have taken possession of each promontory around the bay, and anchored along- side are large three-masted ships of every flag, receiving their cargo of planks or cut timber. The people on shore look poor and ragged. In June they have here 23 houi-s of daylight. To Pited in about 7 hours. A compact, well-built wooden town of 1700 inhabitants. The church is worth a visit ; the belfry, as in all Lapland churches, placed by itself some distance from the main building. There will be sufficient time for the traveller to cross the bridge and ad- mire the taste displayed in the gover- nor's house and grounds. Pitea exports large quantities of wood ; 50 ships may be counted at one time surrounding the sawmills dotted about the bay. To Luled in about 6 hours. The steamer continues its course through the most intricate channels, disturbing large flocks of wild fowl which inhabit the islands. The almost total absence of darkness helps to re- mind the traveller that he is now in the same latitude as Iceland. Lule4 is situated on an island. The old town, which was once on the seaside, is now some 7 miles up the river, show- ing the upheaving of this coast which is continually going on. It is an im- portant and thriving place, containing 2000 inhabitants ; it possesses a large church, together with a Government house, town-hall, and numerous shops or stores. A large trade is carried on in wood; and it is the depot of the Gellevara Company, whose mountains of nearly pure iron-ore, covered with extensive forests, lie in the immediate vicinity of the Lulea river. There is a very good inn; charges moderate. Travellers who intend proceeding up the Lulea river to Lapland, disembark here (see Route 82). To Haparanda in 10 or 12 hours (calling at Kalix en route). This is the most northerly town in Sweden, with a population of about 900 inhab. It is situated on the shores of a large bay, on the estuary of the Tornea river. It was founded after Finland and Tornea had been ceded to Russia in 1809, and is gra- dually rising into a place of import- ance. A considerable trade is carried on in butter, salmon, timber, skins, potash, tar, &c. There is a good inn, and a restaurant. Steamers do not come quite up to Haparanda ; they lie in a fjord nearly 1 m. W. of the town. Travellers from Alten, in Nor- way, who are anxious to catch the steamer at Haparanda, must allow time for this addition to their journey. It seems almost useless to insert days of departure for steamers, when they may be changed from year to year. In 1869 they left Haparanda on June the 16th and 30th at 9 a.m. ; the 17th and 23rd, at noon ; the 23rd also, at 6 p.m. July the 5th, 14th, 17th (going on as far as Lubeck), and 28th, at 9 a.m. ; the 3rd, 10th, 21st, and 31st, at 136 ROUTE 81. — GEFLE TO SUNDSWALL. Sweden. noon. August the Tth, 20th, and 29th, at 3 a.m.; the 9th (direct to Stock- holm), 11th, 20th, and 2oth, at 9 a.m. September the 7th, 14th, and 29th, at 5 a.m. ; the 1st, 10th, 16th, 26th, and 28th, at 6 a.m. October the 4th, at 5 a.m.; the 13th, at 6 a.m.; and for Stockholm directy the 1st, 14th, 27th, and 30th, at 6 a.m. Over against Haparanda, on an island in the river, is TokneI, the fron- tier town of Russia. It was founded in 1602, and is celebrated in the his- tory of science for the visit made to it, in 1736, by Maupertuis and other French Academicians, accompanied by the Swedish astronomer Celsius, and again in 1801 by the Swedish astrono- mer Svanberg, for the purpose of deter- mining the exact figure of the earth. In June the sun is, for a few days, visible here at midnight. Charles XI. and several other distinguished per- sons have visited Tornea on that ac- count. The phenomenon is, however, seen longer and to better advantage on Avasaxa, a mountain 680 ft. high, not far from Upper Tornea Ch., 7^ m. from Haparanda. Avasaxa is just within the Arctic Circle. The inn has good accommoda- tion. It can be reached in one day from Haparanda, where carriages can be procured ; provisions for the journey must not be forgotten. The road runs through beautiful scenery along the right bank of the Tornea river, by Kuckula, If m. ; Korpikyla, If m. ; Packila, IJ m. ; Niemis, 1| m. ; to Matarengi, IJ m., through a country in which only Finnish is spoken. Be- yond this a long and rugged route leads over the mountains to Alton (see Handbook for Norway, Rte. 24). Salmon abound in the TorneS, river, but it must be remembered in this, as well as in the Lule^ and other Both- nian streams, that there can be no sport for the rod fisherman until he ascends the river some distance inland. The distance by land from Stock- holm to Haparanda is 111 Sw., or about 690 Eng. m. If a 4- wheel car- riage be taken, it should be of the lightest description, and provided with shafts, drag, and fork. They may be taken by steamer to Upsala, Gefle, or any other port on the coast. The small Swedish road-book should be purchased, in case of any alteration in the stages upon this route. Clean sheets and good bedding are usually met with in the poorest station-houses in Sweden. Good cofiee, milk, eggs, and fish, may be depended upon ; but good bread or meat are rare out of the towns ; and therefore it is advisable to establish a provision-basket in travel- ling this or any other route in the country by post. The route is by rail or steamer to Upsala, and thence by road to Gefle (see Ete. 74). Gefle to Sundswall. The road continues more or less near the coast the whole way, passing nu- merous small lakes and streams, and through a densely wooded, low, but undulating country, gradually sloping upwards to the mountains in the W. Quantities of boulders of all sizes are frequently seen, and the hamlets and farmhouses are numerous, but mostly of a poor and comfortless class. The stations are : t JMle, If m. On this stage the large and handsome cotton-mill of Strombro is passed. ■fHamrdngey If m. iiSkog, 2| m. i*Mo Myskie, 1^ m. On this stage the road passes between the large lakes of Bergviken and Marma, crossing the stream which connects them. The Ljusne river is the great tributary, which, flowing from the mountain boundary between Sweden and Nor- way, near Roraas, forms these lakes, as well as several others higher up. The station-house at Mo Myskie is very good. From hence a road branches off W. to Elfdal, in Dalecarlia (see Rte. Sweden. ROUTE 81. — SUNDSWALL TO UMEA. 137 74), and another E. to the seaport of SODEKHAMN, I5 m. dist. fNorrala, 1^ m. iEndnger, 2J m. ifNjutdriger, 1 m. \Tuna, 1| m. Between the last two stations is the seaport of Hudiks- WALL. The farm-houses have an im- proved appearance in this province (Helsingland),and increase in size and comfort as the road passes on through those of Medelpad and Angermanland. Numerous small streams are crossed during the next 4 stages. Mogsta, I m. JSamrdnger, 1 jqIQ.. iGryttie, If m. i*Maj\ 2 m. On leaving this the road crosses the noble Njurunda river, continuing along the coast to fSuNDSWALL, 21 m. A seaport, like the foregoing, for export of timber and iron, and for stromming fishery ; 4900 inhab. The town is prettily situated at the head of a large bay, and is sur- rounded by steep hills. Sundswall to Vmed. As far as Docksta the scenery is generally very pleasing — the road, dur- ing the greater part of the way, wind- ing along the banks of small lakes and the heads of deep bays ; but after that, as the soil gets poorer, vegetation be- comes stunted, and tJiere are few pleas- ing features to vary tiie dull monotony of the vast and stunted pine-forests. The stages are : \Wifsta, 1^ m., near the ship-wharf and loading-place of the same name, built like a town, with some 400 inha- bitants. A good inn, &c. ■fNdset, If m. Upon this stage the noble Indals river is crossed, at its junction with the gulf. Sfj^ggsjo, 1| m. Aland, 1^ m. E. of these two sta-' tions, ^1| m. from Haggsjo and 1 m. from Aland, lies on Horno island, at the mouth of the Angerman river, Hernosand, \HornOf I m. On this stage the broad Angerman river is crossed by a ferry ; the passage may be delayed for several hours, and is at times* totally- impracticable. During open water, therefore, a steamer leaves Hernosand every week-day at 8 a.m. for Homo, where it arrives at 10 and returns at 2 p.m. to Hernosand, by which means time may be saved and danger avoided. •fHerrskog, 1§ m. Utvik, If m. ^Docksta, 1\ m. From hence to XJmea the soil increases in poverty, but the inhabitants gain a comfortable livelihood by their skill and industry in weaving linen. -fSpjute, 1| m. ^Hprnds, 1| m. ^•fdriislwldvik, 1 m. A small seaport. -fTdfra, 1| m. On this stage the Gidea nver is crossed. * ■[Konsa, jj| m. Afva, IjA m. Midway on this last stage the province of Westerbotten is entered— a flat and poor country, the industrious inhabitants of which live by a precarious agriculture, by cattle- rearing, and fishing. The northern part is called Norrbotten, and the vast adjoining tracts of Lapland are divided between these two countries. Lefvar, 1| m. On the road to this station Stora Logdan river is crossed. Angersjo, If m. On the road to this station Ore river is crossed. -fSormjole, If m. \Stocksjd, 1| m. t*UMEA, f m. A seaport on the gulf, with 2,100 inhab. The inn here is well spoken of. The town is built upon a plain on the 1. bank of the Ume river, which is extensive, and rises in the mountains, near the Norwegian frontier. The governor of Westerbot- ten resides here. There are many ironworks and sawmills in the neigh- bourhood, and two active shipping- places, Batan and Holmsund, the lat- ter being an outport of Umea, where large vessels bring up. 138 ROUTE 81. — UMEA TO HAPARANDA. Umed to Pited. The road continues along the coast, through flat districts and vast forests, but in which the birch and aspen become more freely mingled with the fir. Such, indeed, is the character of the scenery the whole way to Tornea, occasionally varied by agreeable views of the sea and the rushing streams from the mountains on the W. Most of them abound in salmon, which is the staple food of the people. Numer- ous instances occur between Umea and Tornea, which prove that the whole of this part of Sweden is slowly rising from the sea. The stages are : •flnnertafle^ | m. Sdfvar, 1^ m. Near the great iron- works of that name. fDjekneboda^ IJ m. JRickled, 1| m. -f^Gumhoda, 11 m., on the sea, with a loading-place for timber. ^Grimsmarhi I5 m. ■f*Brodng, 1^ m. i^Daglosten, 1^ m. Bured, 1^ m. -flnnervik, IJ m. Skelleftea, 1 m. a small sea- port on the Skellefte river, with 400 inhab. Close by, up the river, is Skel- leftea Ch., one of the handsomest in Sweden, built in the form of a Grecian temple. -fTrosthdge, 1| m. \Byske, \\ m. Ahyn, 1| m. *Kinbeck, 1 m. Jdfre, IJ m. t*PiTEl, 2J m. The Pite river is crossed before entering this town,which is prettily situated upon the coast, and has about 1680 inhab. A small trade is carried on in timber, tar, skins, &c. Steamers call here on their way be- tween Stockholm and Haparanda (see above). Pited to Luled, The stations are : iOjeby, I m. ^JioBviky 2 m, ^•fErsndSy li m. ^Gdddvikj l\ m. ^Luled Gammelstad, § m. On this stage the noble Lule river is passed, which is celebrated for the numerous cataracts and rapids it forms during its course from the mountains. t**'LuLEA, 1 m. A good Inn: a town of 2000 inhab. on an island in a fine harbour, the resort of timber-ships. The houses are of wood. "It has neither prisons, policemen, magistrate nor soldier. Thieving is unheard of; and on leaving your house you hang the key on a peg outside, to show you are not at home. The manager of the Gellivara Company resides here.*' — Try Lapland. The old town, built by Gustavus Adolphus, but transferred to the island in consequence of the sea having receded from it, lies about 7 m, up the river. I/ided to Haparanda. The road still passes through a thickly-wooded country of little inte- rest, except for its geology. The stages are : •f Person, If m. \*Bdnhy, 1| m. Near here the river Rane is crossed. It is nearly 600 feet wide, and is one of the most consider- able streams which rise in the moun- tains of Swedish Lapland. At its mouth is one of the many loading- places for timber on this coast. \Jemtony 1^ m. \Tore, 1 m. \Mdn8hyn, 2 m. Ndshyn, 1| m. Another of the great Lapland streams, the Kalix, is crossed on this stage. Houses and villages are numerous upon its banks. There are two loading places. Upper and Lower Kalix. Great numbers of salmon are taken in this river. iSangiSj 2 m. \Saiwits, 1 m. Nickala, If m. *Hapabanda, 1 nif Sioeden. ROUTE 82. — LULEA TO QUICKJOCK. - 139 KOUTE 82. LULEA TQ QUICKJOCK (LAPLAND) * (With Map). There is no route in Europe offering such great advantages both to the sportsman and naturalist, combined with so few discomforts as this tour up the Lule^ river; and even with ordinary precautions, ladies need not fear to join the expedition, if able to walk some 5 miles in a day, and thus enjoy the Arctic scenery without a long sea-voyage, or privations of any kind. If desirable, som6 person can always be found at LuleS, to act as a guide. This, however, will not be necessary if one of the party can speak a little Swedish; as the Swedish settlers in Lapland at whose houses the traveller will put up, are always obliging, in- telligent, and educated ; they will be perfectly satisfied with 2 dollars per head per diem, this charge covering all expenses. A revolver will not be needed, the natives are only too pleased to see a traveller ever to think of molesting him, as the pay they receive for boat- hire, lodging, &c. &c., far exceeds any thing they can earn in an ordinary way. A piece of good cheese, and a small keg of native brandy, is all that the traveller need purchase at Lulea. The following necessaries had better be brought from England : — gun, ammu- nition, dog, rods, fishing-tackle of all * This route is fully and agreeably described in 'Try Lapland/ by Capt. Hutchinson, pub- lished 1870. kinds, some tins of preserved soup and meat, tea, wine, and a box of biscuits. Plenty of warm clothing must be pro- vided, as the nights may be cold and frosty — in the day-time the sun will often be very hot. The midnight sun can be seen from Jockmock just as well as from Avasaxa, near Haparanda, and all the way up to Quickjock, which is half a degree further north. But the sportsman should avoid the month of June or July, as the birds are sitting upon their nests, and the mosquitoes will drive the fisherman away from the rivers. By the end of August or beginning of September these intolerable pests will be put to flight by the cold frosty nights, and the young birds have be- come strong on the wing. The rooms in these settlers' houses are warmed in 5 minutes ; they pile large pine-logs in the enormous fire- places, these burn up at once, throwing off a tremendous heat. This route has been divided into days, as there are only certain houses which offer sufficient acconuriodation to the traveller, one of which must be reached every night. Immediately on arriving at Lulea, a messenger, as forbud, should be dis- patched to Jockmock, the half-way station, with a slip of paper for every place he passes through, saying when the travellers will arrive, and what horses or boatmen, or food, they are likely to require ; then there will be no delay along the route, and little need for the preserved provisions. Lulea is a town of 2000 Inhab., with a capital inn. Room with 2 beds, IJ dolls.; dinner, 1 doll. The traveller may be detained here 2 or 3 days, which time can be occupied in making his arrangements and obtaining further information (see Ete. 81). The small paddle-steamer *Gelli- vara,' belonging to the English com- pany of that name, carries goods and passengers up and down the Lule^ river, leaving the town of Lulea every Tuesday and Friday at 10 a.m. for 140 ROUTE 82. — LULEA. Sweden. K&backen, at the foot of the Hedeus- fors Eapids. This journey occupies 3 hours, the river for the first part being wide with flattish banks, gra- dually narrowing higher up. Scenery tame and uninteresting. Salmon are caught here in large numbers, in stake nets, which almost obstruct the navigation ; they are able to make their way up as far as the falls at Edefors. Villages are scattered along the sandy banks, having as usual 4 or 5 wooden houses attending upon each inhabited one. Each kitchen being, if possible, a small detached building to avoid risk of fire. Good food can be procured on board this steamer, the captain of which speaks English. On landing at Mdbachen the tra- veller will find a gig (holding 2) for himself, and a small cart for his lug- gage, which his forbud has ordered. The ponies are good, but the road is sandy and bad, all the way to the village of Hedensfors, a distance of about 7 miles. The traveller is recommended to take the reins, as he will then only have himself to blame if he does not avoid the numerous ruts which garnish this road, the jolting into which the natives think nothing of. This drive of about an hour and a half runs through a forest of pine with clearings now and then ; the scenery improving as he reaches his destination, where a small screw-steamer, also belonging to the Gellivara Company awaits him. The hire of horses and carriages is the same as in Sweden. Leaving the quay at 3 p.m., this small boat rapidly pushes its way against the stream, disturbing numerous wild fowl ; the villages become smaller and more scattered, and the scenery wilder and more interesting. On the right lies the village of Bredaker, the start- ing point of the road to Luled. A stay of an hour is made at Svartla, a very pretty place ; some refreshment can be obtained here. Nothing but beer is to be had on board the steamer. Large wood rafts succeed each other all the way up, and large fires, for making pitch line the banks at intervals. A short stay is made at Botrafors, where there is a large sawing-mill ; here the banks are so steep, that the steamer can lie alongside without a quay of any kind. Edefors is reached at about 9 P.M. This is a lonely spot at the bottom of the rapids, down which the water tears and rushes for more than a mile. Accommodation for the night can be found at a house close to the landing-place; and salmon may be caught here with^the fly up to 50 lbs. in weight, no particular leave or licence required, and a boat can always be had. Here are also trout and gray- ling in abundance. The fishing is also good from the land at the point where the rapid ends. Next morning a cart can be procured to take the luggage to the top of the rapid, IJ m. distant, good road. The traveller had better walk through this forest, with pretty peeps of the river now and then. A boat with 2 rowers will be in waiting, which will be quite enough if there are only 2 passengers and not over much luggage. The tra- veller is advised here, as in all other boat-journeys, to have his gun ready for the numerous wild fowl he will meet with en route. The 20 m. against stream to Stor- hacken is pulled in about 3J hrs, allowing for a quarter of an hour's rest for the boatmen ; here it is advisable to give them a small glass of the native brandy; they are paid ] dollar each for every Swedish mile. The scenery improves all the way to Storbacken, where the little Lulea joins the great Lulea river, the route continues along the banks of the former. At this place will be found a gig and cart to take the traveller to Payerim, his resting- place for the night— a distance of about 9 m., road pretty good, with varying scenery. The tourist is now in Lapland proper, and he will notice that the whole country is one immense forest pierced alone by the route which he is now taking. This is by far the best station on the whole journey. Sweden. ROUTE 82. — JOCKMOCK. 141 good accommodation, good food, and beautiful scenery ; there are plenty of fish in the river close by, grayling pre- ponderate. Horses and carriages are found here for the journey to Jockmock, the road is good, and in some places very hilly, rising some hundreds of feet between the two stations, and running through wild and desolate-looking pine-forests, large tracts of which show nothing but grey poles, all that has escaped the ravages of the bush fire, so prevalent here in the summer months. Dead and dying trees are falling and lying around, and the traveller may have to stop his horse to remove a tree which blocks up his road. The forbud will have ordered dinner at Mattis udden, a station-house on an island situated exactly upon the Arctic Circle, where a short stay is made to rest. The traveller is now in a higher latitude than the northernmost point of Iceland, strange birds abound, and the solitary grandeur of the forests, with their foreground of bright co- loured mosses and lichens form a pic- ture which he is never likely to forget. Arriving at Jockmock late in the afternoon, the accommodation at the station-house is found to be inferior to the last ; nevertheless a short stay should be made here to despatch an- other forbud to Quickjock, and to take advantage of the splendid trout and grayling fishing below the falls. It would be well to purchase a lamb or calf on arriving, price about 4s. This Lap village is a most curious place, containing streets of empty wooden huts for man and reindeer, upon their return from the mountains in the winter ; it has a shop, a boot- maker, a pastor and parsonage, and church. Pearls of great beauty can be had here; they are found in the Pearl river, which runs into one of the lakes some miles off. The Jockniock Falls are truly mag- nificent, and alone would well repay a visit, the immense volume of water dashes with a roar over a precipice of some 50 ft., throwing up clouds of spray in every direction. Trout and grayling up to 6 and 7 lbs. are found in every eddy below the falls, about one mile from the station- house, and wild fowl feed in every little bend of the river. The fish rise greedily to almost any fly, as the natives having only nets, are unable to molest them in the broken waters. Should the traveller make this journey in June, there will be no more total darkness for him till near the end of July. The midnight sun may be seen from a hill 2 hours* walk from the station-house, should the w^eather be fine. The postman can be made use of as forbud if the time suits, if not, of course a special messenger must be despatched ; this is not absolutely ne- cessary, but it will avoid all delay and disappointment in waiting for boat- men, &c. &c. Leaving Jockmock early in the morning in carriages, which can be had at the station-house for the 5 m. of road to the bottom of Lake Vai- kijaur, 2 boats, each manned by 2 men or women will be in waiting; 1 boat would not be sufficient for the further journey, as the baggage has to be carried through the forest by the rowers upon their backs. All the way to Quickjock, wild fowl will be met with on every side, while the lakes and rivers teem with fish of large size. The head of Lake Vaikijaur will be reached against a strong current rising in one place to a small rapid in about 2^ hrs., when the boats will be drawn up, and the luggage taken out and equally divided among the rowers, who sit down on the grass and tie their respective goods on to their backs; following them, the traveller wends his way along a footpath through the forest for 2 m. to avoid the rapids, which invariably form the junction between these lakes. The boatmen are very careful, and would not allow the traveller to proceed were there any 142 BOUTE 82. — LtJLEA TO QUlCKJOCK. Bwede danger to be apprehended from sudden storms or squalls on the lake ; the boats are light canoes, made of pine strongly put together, which rise readily to the small waves. As the bottom of the next lake Pur- liijaur is reached, other boats and rowers are ready ; the former ones are now paid and sent back again. After a good hour's row the head of the lake is seen, disembarkation again takes place, another tying on of luggage to willing backs, and a further walk of 2^ miles through the forest, surrounded by birch and pine and fir ; the foot- path is good, though rather boggy in some places after heavy rains. A little drop (say a small wineglass) of the native brandy given to each boatman, the women are all teetotallers, will help the boat along. They will do almost anything for this highly prized spirit, which they cannot procure or purchase anywhere, its sale having been properly forbidden by law as its constant use was rapidly depopulating the whole country. No stronger or finer men and women are to be found anywhere than these teetotal Swedish settlers. Now, at every house, will be found small creatures dressed in reindeer- skins with high blue caps, without any hair on their faces, and of unknown ages or sexes ; these are the real Laps, who have not accompanied their brethren and the reindeer to the moun- tains. The traveller will meet with none of the latter although in winter they abound at every station, their flesh being then the staple food of the inhabitants, which in summer is cows milk and fish. No bread will be met with till he arrives at Quickjock, each station is provided with dried rusks as a substitute. The native hard black bread will not be relished by the traveller. The next lake is Randijaur, where other boats and rowers are waiting. Sometimes 2 boys take the place and pay of one man. This is the broadest lake of all, and the shore is left some 3 or 4 miles for a time, instead of coasting along the side, as in the other lakes : it takes a 2 hours' row to arrive at its head, where there is a beautiful cascade formed by the river dashing down through several small islets from the other lake. Here is a house where a rest can be made and coffee procured. Only 10 minutes' walk to next lake, Parkijaur, where fresh rowers are stationed. The snow-capped moun- tains, for which the traveller is bound, appear for the first time in the dis- tance and altogether the scenery of this lake increases in boldness and grandeur. After an hour's row and a walk of 20 minutes Lake Skalka appears in sight, and another 15 minutes' pull lands the traveller at the hospitable station of Bjorkholm situated upon a small island. He ought to arrive here at about 8 p.m. This is by far the most fatiguing day's journey, in consequence of its length ; but it is better to push on than have to put up in huts which are not intended for the traveller's reception. Kusks, dried reindeer-flesh, eggs, butter, milk, and fish form the staple diet at these stations, but meat will often be provided if previously ordered by the forbud. Next morning fresh rowers will pull the traveller in 3 hours to Tjomatis, where a rest is taken and coffee can be and a further 2^ hours lands him at the station of Niavi at the head of the Lake. Here the traveller can push on to Quickjock the same day if he wish, as it is only 20 miles further; but a comfortable station- house and magnificent fishing in the rapids close at hand should not be hurriedly passed by. The scenery increases in beauty every day the nearer the Quickjock mountains ap- pear to the eye. Next morning a walk of 25 minutes brings the traveller to the bottom of Lake Saggat ; here for a short distance the boats are pulled and poled up a rapid to the dismay of the nervous traveller, who fancies the boat Sweden. ROUTE 82. — QUICK JOCK. 143 must be wrecked on some sunken rock every minute. High mountains and perpendicular cliffs line the banks of this splendid lake while the range of snow-capped mountains form a fitting background. 4 hours' pulling takes the traveller to its head, where the boats enter a na- tural canal of more than a mile in length, cutting off the course up the tempestuous Tarajock river, and soon the village of Quichjoch opens suddenly to view. The situation of this lovely spot can- not be exceeded for natural beauty, lying as it does upon a sloping hill with the waterfall of the Kamajock river on its right, it commands a mag- nificent prospect of the valley in front formed by the junction of the 2 rivers before they empty themselves into the Lake. Patches of snow at no great height stand out from the dark rocks ere the eternal snow is reached, while the dark green of the very small pines and the lighter tints of the willow birch add to the beauty of the picture, the clear atmosphere of the Arctic regions giving a charm to the whole which it would be difiicult to describe. In summer the village of Quickjock is made up of 4 families ; and although there is a station-house, the traveller will do better if he can persuade the hospitable pastor to receive him. Lambs and calves can be purchased here, and bread will once more gladden his eyes, the Parsonage is roomy and comfortable and the cooking excellent. The prospect on all sides can nowhere be exceeded for its ever-changing beauties. Plenty of trout and grayling in the rivers, and especially at the foot of the falls ; but they are small compared to the other streams, not exceeding 2 or 3 lbs. in weight — 60 fish from § to 3 lbs. each would be an ordinary afternoon's sport at the bottom of the last fall, close to the parsonage. In one hour the Fells at the back of the house can be reached, where a good shot ought to secure 50 ptarmigan and willow-grouse to his own gun in the day. There is also a track across the mountains into Norway, should the traveller wish to return home that way. If not, he must take the same route back again, but being down hill, and with the stream, it will require a much shorter time than it did coming up, taking care to arrive at Edefors on the proper day to meet the screw- steamer. INDEX. Abo, 121 Aby, 89, 94 Abyn, 1^8 Account of Sweden (Suc- cinct), 18 Act of Union, 97 Adolfsberg, mineral springs, 122 Afva, IJ7 Afvelsater, 104 Aggen, 120 Agnesberg, 100, 102 Agriculture, 34 Ahlstromer, Jonas, 7 t Ahus, 89 Akarp, 93 Aker, 66 Aland, IJ7 , islands of, 13 j Alem, 96, 127 Alfta, 119 Alfvesta, 87, 88 Algrena ironworks, 7 1 AlingsS.s, 73 Alkvettem Lake, 84 Alsen Lake, 120 Alten, 136 Alum works, 97 Alvartia (Ruins of), 1 26 Amal, 85, 104 Amannlngen Lake, ic6 Ammeberg zinc-mine, 71 Amot, 85 Andersby, 11 j Anderslof, 9? Angerman River, lu, 134 Angersjb, 137 Angerum, valley of, 99 Angling, 16 Ankarsrum's iron-works, 95 Arboga, 67, 124 Are River, 120 Areda, 88 Areskutan Mountain, 120 Arfvet, 119 Army, ?i Arno, island of, 70 Arstt -fjord, 69 Arvika, 85, 104 Asa, ICO Asby, 114 Asen, 101, 118 Askerbd, 90 BODARNE. Askersund, 71, 86. Asmundtorp, 90 Asnen Lake, 88 Aspa ironworks, 7 1 Aspen Lake, 73, 84 AsplSngen, 78 Atra river, 100 Atvidaberg, ii*^ Augustenbad, 70 Avasaxa, i^, 136 Avesta, 105 Axevalla Heath, 72 B. Backa, 100 Backasand, 126 Baldernas ironworks, 103 Balsberg, cave of, 89 Bankeberg, 126 Bankeryd, forest of. 85 Barkarby, 104 Barken Lake, ic6 Barnarp, 86 Bastad, 100 Belteberga, chateau of, 9: Benvenuto Cellini, ic8 Berggvara, ruins of, 88 Bergsangs-backarna, Iiills of, 117 Bergsbrunna, 109 Bergsjo Lake, 84 Bergviken Lake, i j6 Bergwik sawmills, 1 3 J Bernadotte, 27 , sarcophagus of, 57 Bernshammar, 124 Biby, 67 Bie, 70 Billeberga, 90 Billingen Hills, 71, 72 Billingforss, loj Birka, 66 Bispberg, iron-mines, IC7 Bjersjolagard, 90 Bjorkholm, 142 Bjbrkb fjord, 6? Bjbrneborg, 83, 121 Bjornlunda, 70 Bjuggsta, 104 Blenda, tradition of, 87 Bockara, 127 Boda chapel, 118 Bodarne, 71 BY STROM. Bohr, 86 Bohus, castle of, 83, loi Bolaryd, 86 Bole, 119 Bolmen Lake, 88 Bolsta, 104, 105 Bomarsund, i?j Bommarsbo, 107 Bona, 126 Bonarp's Heath, 90 Bondby, 12? Boras, 73, 125 Boren Lake, 79 Borenhult Sluices, 79 Borga, 121 , castle of, 126 Borggardet, 117 Borgholm, 95;, 97 . castle of, 97 Borgstena, 125 Borseryd, 88 Botrafors, 140 Botterum, 127 Boxholm, 126 Bracke, 120 Braddbo, 10? Brahe, Tycho, 108 , Ebba, 105, 108 Brahehus. 126 Brahestad, 121 Brannahult, 8R Brask, Bishop Hans, 76, 7 Brattsfors, 85 Braviken Fjord, 94 Breared, 88 Bredacker, 140 Bredsjo, 124 Brefven's iron-works, 7 1 Brink, 127 Broang, ijB Broarp, 87 Brbms, 97 Brosarp, 89 Brovallen, 105 Bruksholm, island of, 94 Brunnback, 105 Brunsatra, 115 Burea, ij8 Buskaker, 107, 117 Byarum, 86 Byske, i?8 Bysta, 7£ Bystrdm, 56, 59, 70 , villa of, 62 INDE^. 145 c. CALMA.B, 88, 96, 127, 131 ; hotels, 96; theatre, 96; cathedral, 96; library, 96; castle, 96; history, 96; Act of Union, 97 ; steamers, 97. Calmar, Union of, 2;, 100 Canals, 38 Carleby (New and Old), 12 1 Carlevi, Kunic stone, 97 Carls Islands, 131 Carlsborg, fortress of, 80. Carlsforss, 115 Carlshamn, 98 Carlskrona, 88, 98 Carlstad, 8;, 85 by Land, 102 Carlsten, fortress of, 75 Carlsund, 122 Casimirsborg, 95 Cathrineholm, 70, 94 Charles X., 25 XV., 28 Cbarles Canal, 81 Cbarlottenberg, 85 Christiania, 85 Ckristianstad, 89, 99 Christine, Queen, 25 Christinehamn, 8j Christines tad, 121 Churches, J7 Cimbrishamn, 89 Clar River, 84, 118 Climate, 20 Codex Aureus, 54 Commerce and Navigation, 36 Copenhagen to Gothenburg, 48 JDaglosen Lake, 84 Daglosten, 138 Dal River, 85, 105, 114, 118 Dala, 126 Dalaro, 128 Dalbobrom Pier, 81 Dalby, 90 Dalecarlia, 115 Dalkarlshyttan mines, 123 Dalsland, 81 canal, 103 Dannemora, 113 Lake, 11^ iron-mines, 113 works, 114 Dansjo Lake, 87 Day-Book (Dagbok), 10 Degeberga, 89 Degerfors, 83 Delsbo, IJ4 [Sweden.'] ESPEROD. " Devil's Bible," the, 55 Dialogues, 11 Diet, 28 Djekneboda, ij8 Djupadal, Falls of, 98 Djupedal, 85 Djuramala, 88 Djurgardens, 133 Djursas, 119 Docksta, 137 Dohnaforss iron-works, 7 1 Dollebo, 125 Dorarp, 83 Dormsjo powder-mills, 105 Douglas, Counts of, 78 Drahered, 86 Drevsoehytte, 119 Drottningholm, 64 Dumme River, 85 Dunkehallar Heights, 86 Durgrik, 131 Dykalla, 103 Dylta iron-works, 123 E. Eckero Fjord, 65 Edefors, Falls of, 140 Edenryd, 89, 99 Edsby, ii9 Egbyborna, 79 Einstuga, 119 Eist, 102 Ekeberg, 87 Eketgo Hofgard, 87 Ekolnfjord, 109 Ekolsund, 104 Eksjo, 87, 126 Electric Telegraph, 10 Elgaras, 71 Elfdal, 118, 136 porphyry- works, 118 Elfkarleby, 114 Elfsborg, fortress of, 75 Elfsnabbeu, 128 Elleholm, 99 iron- works, 124 p:imhutt, 88 Elve Fjord, 83 Enanger, 137 Engebacken, 124 Engelbrechtsholm, 123 Engelholm, 99 Engelsberg, 106 Engeltofta, 99 England direct to Gothen- burg, 47 Engso, 67 Enkoping, 104 Eriksberg, estate of, 70 Ernas, 138 Eskilstuna, 67, 70, 80 Eslof, 90 Esperdd, 90 FORSSA SAWMILLS. Evedal, mineral spring of, 88 Everlof, 90 Excursions from Upsala, 112 F. Fagero, island of, 67 Falkenberg, 100 Falkoping, 72, 85 Falsierbo, 93 Falun, 105, 115, 13 J to Elfdal, 117 Fasting Fair, 83 Fiirjestaden, 97 Farnas, 118 Faro (Sheep Island), 131 Farosund, 131 Fellingsbro, 124 Fergusson's ' Handbook of Architecture ' cited, 128, 129 Figeholm, 96 Fiholm, ic6 Fillinge, 127 Finances, 29 Finneback, 85 Finnefors, waterfall of, 120 Finner64ja, 71 Fingspong, chateau of, 95 Fisheries, 35 Fishing, 72, 77, 103, 133, 142 Kriiftor, 122 Fishing and Shooting, 84, 86 Fitja, 70 Fjelkinge, 99 i';;oro!s ;— Bjorko, 6j; War- tan, 65 ; Eckero, 65 ; Grips- holm, 66 ; Prest, 66 ; North, 67; Gran, 67; Hall, 69; Arsta, 69 ; Elve, 83 ; Glafs, 85; ISjoviken, 89; Bravi- ken, 94 ; Hake, loi-; Haf- tens, loi ; Gullmars, loi ; Svinesund, 102 ; Lammar, 107 ; Lofstaf, 107 ; Gorval, 107; Ekoln, 109; Morko, 128 Flapper Shooting, 83 Flaien Lake, 94 Flenninge, 99 Flen, 70 Flino Lake, 105 Floda, 73, 85, 119 Flogforss, copper-mine, 124 Flotsund Bridge, 109 Flottbergstrom, Falls of, 8i Foemund Lake, 119 Foglavik, 73 Folsbyn, 103 Forbud, sending, 8 Forests, 20, 34 Fors, I02 Forssa sawmills, 134 H 146 iNDElJt. FORSEN. Forsen, 120 For serum, 86 Fransta, or Wisslanda, 119 Fridhem, iji Friggesund's sawmills, 134 Froberga, 95 Froso, island of, 120 Frotuna iron- works, 124 Frcivettern Lake, 84 Frovi, 124 Frykstad, 84 Funasdalen, 121 Furndal, 119 G. Giiddvik, ij8 Gafvetorp Agricultural In- stitute, 87 Gagnbro, 117 Gagnef's Church, 117 Game, 77 Laws, 1 7 Gamleby, 95, 96 Gar berg, 118, 119 Games, 121 Garpenberg iron-works, 105 Garsas, 118 Gefla River, 114 Gefle, 70, 114 to Sundswall, ii6 , bay of, m Gellevara Company, 13$ Geology, 20 Gerdheni, 102 Germuvdered, 125 Getabiick, 88 Getsvjiltan, 131 Getterum, 96 Geyer's ' Sweden' cited, 112 Gilbert's Cave, 126 Gidea River, 137 Gislaved, 86 Gisslarbo, 124 Glafsfjord, 85 Glan Lake, 94 Glias Lake, 69 Glissjoberg, 121 Glosbo, 119, 121 Glunislof, 91 Gnesta, 69 Goksholm, I2J Gotala, 72 Gotha lUver, 7^, 82 Canal, 76 Valley, 100 Gothenburg, 46, 48, 69, 7J, 75, 100 ; inns, 73 ; cafes, 73 ; post office, 48, 7i ; tele- graph office, 7? ; livery stables. 7? ; carriages, 74; steam-boats, 48, 49, 74; halland's vadero. money, 48 ; travelling ser- vants, 48 ; environs, 49 ; bridges, 74; streets, 74; cathedral, 74 ; churches, 49, 74; public buildings, 49; exchange, 74; theat'-e, 74 ; gardens, 74 ; museum, 74 ; hospital, 74 ; trade, 49, 74; cemetery, 75. Gothenburg to Carlstad, 102 Gotland, island of, 130 Gorval Fjord, 107 Government, 28 Grado, 105 Grafvenforss, 94 Grahed, loi Gran-fjord, 67 Graso, 133 Grastorp, 125 Grayling, 140, 141, 14J GrekSsar, 12? Grenna, 71, 85, 125 Grimnas, 120 Grimsmark, ij8 Gripsholm Fjord, 66 Gronhult, 87 Grunnebo, 124 Gryt, 71 Gryitie, i?7 Grythyttehed, 123 Guldsmed>hyltan, 124 silver-mine, 124 Gullered, 125 Gullmars Fjord, loi GuUo, Falls of, 81 GuUspang River, 84 Gumboda, 138 Gustafskrog, 104 Gustapsberg, lor Gustavus AdoJphus, 25, 57, 64, 105 , coronation of, 94 Gustavus Wasa, 23, 116, 118 Gusum, 95 Gyllenstjerna, Christine, 52, 68 Habo, 85 Haddebo, 71 Haddetorp, 127. Hafran Lake, 105 Haftens Fjord, loi Hafvernd iron-works, loj Haggsjo, IJ7 Hakanstorp, 125 H}ike Fjord, loi Halboniis, estate of, 70 Halfredda, iji Hall-fjord, 69 Halland's Vadero, island ( f, 100 HOGFORS. Hallandsberg Ymsjoholm, 71 Halle, 120 Ilalleberg Mountain, 81, 124 Hallsberg, 71 Hlillsjo, 124 Hall^ta, 104 Halmstad, 86, 88, 100 Hammarby, favourite resi- dence of Linnieus, 113 Hammarfallet, 124 ! Hamn Canal, 74 '■ Hamrange, 136 1 Hararanger, 137 Hamre, 120 Handeniis, 72 Harby, 88 Harg's cotton-mills, 70 Hassefors, 83 Hastaryd, 99 Haste, 120 Hastholmen, 86, 126 Hastveda, 88 Heby, 115 Hede, 102 Hedeby, iiz Hedeniora, 105 Heden, 119 Hedensfors Rapids, 140] village, 140 Heerestad, 89, 90 HelgM Lake, 87, 88 River, 88, 89 Helsingborg, 91 ; hotels, '91 ; carriages 91 ; steamers, 91 ; history, 91 Helsingborg to Frederiks- hald. 99 Helsingfors, 121 Helvetes, Falls of, 81 Hemmenhog, 89 Hemosand, i?4, 137 Herrebordet, 73 Herresta, loi Herrevadskloster, 90 Herrljunga, 73, 125 Herrskog, 137 Hessleholm, 88, 89 Hester, 126 Hille, r?6 Hilleshult, 88 Hinseberg, chateau of, 124 Hisingen, island of, 100 Hutoricol Notice, 21 Hjelmar Canal, 122 Lake, 122 Hjo, 71, 72, 86 Hoborg, rock of, 131 ] Hoby, 98 Hofdala, 89 Hogantis, 91 Hugbo Company, 70 Works, 115 Hogboda, 85 Hogdal, 102 Hclgfors, 124 147 IIOGKLINT. Hcigklint, iji Hogs I a, 114 Holmen Jsles, 1J4 Holmsund, 1^7 Hour, 89 Hornjis, 1^7 Horno, 157 Island, 1 37 Horningsliolen, Castle of, 78 Horses, 9 Hosjo, 86 Huddinge, 69 Hudeksval, ijj Hufoudniis, Fall of, 124 Hultsired, 127 Hulta, 78 Hunneberg Mountain, 81, 124 Hiirlva, 90 Husaby, 72 Husby, 113 llekarno, 67 Husqvarna, musket-factory, 86 Hven, residence of Tycho Brahe, 91 Hydropathic Establishment, 67, 70 I. Idre, 119 Jfo Lake, 89 lUberg, 85 Indal River, ij2 Industry (productive) J4 Ingarpsberg, chateau of, 87 Ingjitorp, 87 Ingberg Lake, 87 Ingelstad, 88 Inhabitants, 32 Innertafle, ij8 Innervik, 138 Inns, 4 Innsji) Lake, 117 Introductory Information, i Ishutt, 96 J. Jacobstad, 121 Jader iron-works, 124 Jiidei s, bijrial-place of Oxen- stjerna, 67 Jiifre, 138 Jara, 86 Jemjo, 98 Jemserum, 96 Jcmtkrogen, 120 Jem ton, 138 Jeiisvold, 15 1 Jerfva, 109 Jerfs'j, 121 KOPINGHULT. Jerla, 12? Jerna, 69, 85, 119 Jockniock, 1^9 , Falls of, 140 Johant)ishus. chateau of, 98 JoNKoPiNG, 71. 86, 175; har- bour, 86; lighthouse, 86; Superior Court of Justice, 86 ; hotel, 86 ; steamers, 86 ; mail coaches, 86 1 Jonsered, 73 Justice, J I K. Kaggeholm, 65 Kalix River, 132 , Upper and Lower, 138 Kallandso, 8i Kallsta, 119 Kalmar, 88 Kappeled, 86 Kappellbackarna, loi Karbcile, 121 Karby, 87 Karlel)y, 105 Kiirniansbo, 124 Klirra, 100, 102 Karsholm, chateau of, 89 Lake, 89 Kathrinehold, 78 Kattleberg, 102 Kilsmo, 71 Kinbeck, 138 Kinftsta, 109 Kings Lodge, the, 123 Kinnekulla Mountain, 72, 81 Kisa. 127 Kivik, 89 , ancient monument, 89 Kjevingsborn, 123 Kjosta, 120 Kliimman, 78 Klelshult, 86 Klintehamn, 130 Klorup, 93 Kloster powder-mills, 105 Klostret, 72 Knappekulla, 95 Knighthood, orders of, 32 Kohisva, 124 Kolback River, 106 Kolfva, 115 KoUekind, 102 Kolmorden, forest of, 94 Kolslatt, 104, 121 Kolsnaren Lake, 70 Komtillmatta, 117 Kongelf, 83, 100 Kongbtuen, mo Kongvinger, 85 Kon>a, i?7 Kophig, 68, 90, 124 Kopingbult, 123 LAKES. Kopmannabro, loj Korpikyla, 136 Kornas, 1 1 5 Kosta, glass-manufactory, 88 Kiapperiip, chateau of, 91 Krokek, 70 Kronobergs Castle, ruins of, Krusenberg, chateau of, 108 Kuckula, 136 Kullen Mountain, 91 Kumla, 122, 127 Kungsbacka, 100 Kungsgarden, 115 Kungshamn, 109 Kungshatt, 65, 77 Kungshogar, 113 Kungsor, 67, 122 Kuopio, 121 Kurland, 121 Kuro, 124 Kynnefjall Hills, 102 Kyrkeby, 101 Kyikvik, loi L. Ljiby, 114 Lace, 80 Laga River, 86, 88 Laggesta zinc- mines, 71 Lagmansholm, 73 Laholm, ico Lakes:— \()\ Malar, 6Si 77; Ronninge, 69; Uttran, 69 ; Lanaren, 69; Glias, 69; Wammeln, 70 ; Wiren, 70; Kolsnaren, 70; Mjorn, 73; Aspen, 7 J, 84; Maren, 77; Roxen, 78, 126 ; Boren, 79 ; Wettern, 80; Wiken, 81 ; Wenern, 81, 103 ; Tryken, 84; Bergsjo, 84; Ull vet- tern, 84 ; Frovettern, 84 ; Alkvettern, 84; Mockeln, 84, 88 ; Skagern, 84 ; Oje- vettern, 84 ; Daglosen, 84 ; Lersjo, 84 ; Ostersjon, 84 ; Yngen, 84; Langban, 84; Saxen, 84 ; Munk.-jon, 86 ; Runneryd, 87 ; Ingberg, 87 ; Dansjo,87; Helga, 87, 88 ; Asnen, Bb ; Vidostern, 88 ; Bolmen, 88 ; Salen, 88 ; Straken, 88: Ousby, 88; Riibelol, 89 ; Karhhoim,89; Ifo, 89; 'liiiga, 89; Ring, 89; Fliiten, 94; Sviiibo- gen, 94 ; Mikna, 94 ; Glan, 94 ; , Laxtn, 103 ; Le- langen, 103 ; Stora Lee, 103; Hafran, 105; Flino, 105; Barken, 106; Amiiu, nirigen, 106 ; Wessman h2 148 INDEX. LAMHtJLT. MARMA LAKE. MUONIO RIVER. 107; Ljustern, 107; Dan- Liten Lake, 120 Mamas, 107 nemora, 113; Runn, 115; Literature, 37 Marryatt's ' One Year in Tisken, 115; Innsjo, 117; Ljung, 125 Sweden,' cited, no Orsa, 118; Faemund, 119; Ljungby, 88 Marshes, the, 103 Riifsund, ii9;Storsjo 120; Ljusdal, 134 Marsta, 109 Alsen, 120; Lieten, 120; Ljusne River, 121, 132, 134, Marstrand, 75 MosjG, 122 ; Hjelmar, 122: 136 Matarengi, 136 Msvalen, 1 23 ; Waringen, lijustern Lake, 107 Mattis udden, 141 124; Sommen, 126; Berg- Lloyd's • Field Sports in Nor- Measures, 3 ■vvik, 133; Bergviken, 130; way 'cited, 84 Mehedi, 114 Marma, 136; Vaikyjaur, Liiberod, 90 Mellerad, 103 141; Purkjaiir, 142; Ran- Lodderkoping, 9^ Mem, 78 dijaur, 142 ; Parkijaur, 142 ; Lofors iron- works, 124 Merhutt, 88 Skalka, 142 ; Skaggat, 142 Lofstafjord, 107 Mie River, 98 Lamhult, 87 Lofvestad, 90 Mineralogy, 20 Laminar Fjord, 107 Lofvik, 121 Mines:— 35; Liiggesta, 71 ; Lanaren Lake, 69 Lomma, 93 Ammeberg, 71 ; Taberg, Landskrona, 90, 93, 96 London to Stockholm, 46 84; Pehrsberg, 84; Sala, Landsort, Lighthouse of, 128 Lovisa, 121 104 ; Bispberg, 107 ; Dan- Langa, I2i Lucifer-matches, febrication nemora, 113; Stora Kop- Langbaii Lake, 84 of, 86 parberg, 115 ; Dalkarls- L'anna, iji Ludvika, 107 hyttan, 123; Guldsmeds- Lappe, 123 Lule River, 132, 138 hyttan, 124 ; Flogforss, Lastringe, 69 Lulea, 133, 135, 138 124; Uto, 128 Latorp, 123 to Harparanda, 138 Mjolby, 126 Lauritsala, 121 Lulea Gammelstad, 138 Mjcirn Lake, 73 Laxa, 71, 83 Lund, 90, 92, 96, 103, 115; Mo Myskie, 119, 121, 136 Laxbro, 124 hotels, 92 ; history, 92 ; Mockeln Lake, 84, 88 Laxen Lake, 10 j university, 92 ; library, 92 ; Modes of Travelling, 4 Laxholm, island of, 94 cathedral, 92 ; Academical Moheda, 86, 87 Le Bas' • Sweden ' cited, 118 Society, 92 ; parks, prome- Moholm, 71 I^cko Slott (Palace), 81 .nades, 93 ; Botanical Gar- Molndal River, 74 Ledhestra, 125 dens, 93 Money, Measures, Weights, 2 Lefvar, 137 Lyckan, 84 Monsteras, 90, 95 Leksand, 117 Lyckeby, 98 Mora, 118 Lelangen Lake, 103 Lyugarn, 131 Noret, 118 Lenhofda, 88 Lyngsasa, 88 stones, 113 Lennartsforss iron-works,io3 Lysekihl, loi Morbylanga, 97 Lennartsnas, 107 Morko, Island of, 78 Lerdal, 118 Fjord, 128 Lerohl, 85 M. Mombo, 69 Lersjo Lake, 84 Morum River, 99 Lerum, 73 Magiestan, Elfs of, 89 Morup, 100 Lessebo paper-mill, 88 Mail Coaches, 10 Morvik, 120 Let River, 84 Maj, 1 37 MosSs, 122 Leufsta, 114 Malar Lake, 65, 77 Mosjo Lake, 122 Levanger, 121 MSlilla. 127 Mosseberg Hill, 72 Liatorp, 88 Malmkuping, 67, 70 Motala, 71, 80, 86 Lida River, 72 Mahno, 93 River, 78, 94 Lidkoping, 72 Pyttar, 101 Mountains : — Billingen, 71, Liljeholmen, 69 Malmon, Island of, 101 72; Mosseberg, 72; Kinne- Lilla Aby, 70 Maloga, 104 kulla, 81; Halleberg, 81, Edet, 83, 102 Maltesholm, 89 124; Hunneberg, 81, 124; Lilleskog, 124 Malung, 118 Taberg, 86; Dunkehallar, Lillnor, 104 MSnsbyns, 138 86; Kullen, 91; Tontin, Lima, 118 Manufactures, 36 loi ; KynneQall, 102 ; JAnd, Jermy, 37 Maren Lake, 77 Bergsangs, 117; Aresku- Linde, or Lindesberg, i 13 Margarethetorp, 9 tan, 120 LiNKopiNG, 78, 126; hotels. Marieberg, 63 Movik's blast-furnace, 134 &c., 126; cathedral, 126: Mariedal, mineral spring, 86 Mullsjo, 85 churches, 126; library, Mariehof, 78 Munkholmen, Island of, loi 127 ; steamers, 127 ; mail Marieholm, 90 Munksjo, paper-mill, 86 coaches, 127 Mariestad, 71, 81 Munksjon Lake, 86 LinncBus, hirthplace of, 88 Marma sawmills^ 133 Muonio River, 132 Lislena, 104 Lake, 136 iNDJ:^. 149 NADENDAL. PILKKOG. RIDDARSHOLM CHURCH. Ofvanmyra, 118 Pite River, 132, 138 N. Oja, 67 PiteS, 135, 138 pjeby, ijB to Lulea, 138 Nadendal, ill Ojevettem Lake, 84 Platen, Baron B. von, 77, 79 Na3S, 85, 115, 121 Oland, Island of, 97 Population, 21 Nakna Lake, 94 ..Ime, 83 1 Porla mineral spring, 71 Nasbo, Castle of, 126 Omnestad, 89 Postal service, 38 Nasby, 66 Orbyhus, Castle of, 114 Posting regulations, 8 Nasbyn, 138 Orders of Knighthood, 32 Productive industry, 34 Naset, 137 Orebro, ill, 123 Press, 30 Nashulta iron-works, 67 Oregrund, 133 Prestbohl, 85 Niissjo, 86 Orn Koldvik, 137 Prestfjord, 66 Navy, jii Omas, 117 PrestgSrden, 85 Nedansjo, 119, IJ4 Orreryd, 86 Ptarmigan, 120, 143 Nederled, 86 Orsa, 119 Public instruction, 30 Niavi, 142 Lake, 118 Pukeberget, 95 Nickala, 138 Orsater, 127 Purkijaur Lake, 142 Niemis, ij6 Orsnovik, 134 Pyttar, a dwarf-like race, 101 Nilsson, Christine, 37 Orsta, 67 Nilsvallen, 121 Ortofta, 92 Nissa River, 86, 100 Ornst, Island of, loi Q. Nissaryd, 86 Oscar L, 27 Njutanger. 137 Oscarshamn, 95 Quarantine, 4 Njurunda River, ij2 Ost Gcita Canal, "9 Quickjock, I3J, 143 Nobbelof, 89 Qstad, 126 Quicksund, 67 Nohlby, 102 Ostambro post-oflice, 104 Qvarnemala, 88 Nohlhaga, 7J Osterby, 113 Qvariistrom, statue by, 123 JVora, 123 , Chateau of, 114 , Forges of, 1 14 Qvibille, 100 Evalla, 123 Qvistrum, loi Norberg, 106 Osterbyn, 103 Norje, 99 Osterdal River, 115 Norquam, 81 Ostersjon Lake, 84 B. Norrala, 137 Norrlida, 86 Norrki3ping, 78, 94, 127, 131 ; hotels, &c., 94 ; college, 94 ; manufactures and com- Ostersund to Trondlijem, 120 Ost Malmogen, 121 Ostra Karup, 99 Ottebol. 85 Ottenby, 97 Ousby, 88 Lake, 88 Oxenstjema, Chancellor Axel, 67 RSc1, 91 Rabacken, 140 Rabalshede, 102 Rabelof Lake, 89 merce, shipbuilding and Raby, 125 navigation, 94; factories, Rafsnas, 66 94 ; wool fair, 95 ; steamers, 95 ; exports and imports, Rafsund Lake, 119 Railway, Northern, la/ 95 ; marble quarries, 95 Railways, 6 Nors River, 104 Ramliisa, 91 Norsholm, 78, 127 P. Ramnas iron-works, 106 Northfjord, 67 Ramsbergs, 124 Norvig, 119 Pabodiv, 97 Ranby, 138 Nya Kopparberget, 1 24 Packila, 136 Randijaur Lake, 142 Nybodda Tunnel, 69 PSdsboda, 71 Rane River, 138 Nybro, 88 Parkijaur Lake, 142 Rankhyttan, 117 Nyckelo, 106 Parks, Carlberg, 6j Rannum, 124 Nygard, 88, 13 1 , Djurgard, 62 Ransjo, 121 Nygvarn, 127 . Haga, 62 Rashult, 88 Nykoping, 69 Partilled, 73 RSsvalen Lake, 123 Nyland, 134 Piiskallavik, 96 Ratan, 137 NynSs, 118 Passports, 4 Rattvik, 118 Nyslott, 121 Pavestorp, 81 Raumo, 121 Nystad, 121 Payerim, 140 Raus, 91 Pehrberg iron-mine, 84 Refsudden, 96 Pelegrimstad, 120 Rehgion, 30 0. Person, 138 Requisites for travelling, 5 Petri, Laurentius and Olaus, Reutersberg, 68, 122 Oden^on, 90 monument to, 123 Ricklea, 138 Odeshog, 126 Philipstad, 84, 123 Riddarhyttan, J24 Odestorp, 87 Pike, perch, roach, 133 Biddarsholm, Island of, 56 Odin, 21, 112 Pilkrog, 70 Church, 56 150 INDEX. RIDDERSVIK. SKARFVEN. STENNINGE. Riddersvik, 107 Skarhult, 90 Eimforssa, 127 S. Skarstad, 127 Rind5, 66 Skattkarr, 83 Ring Lake, 89 Saby, 126 Skatungeby, 119 Ris River, 124 Sabyholm, 122 Skeback, 123 Rivers ; — 20 ; Svartdn , 68, , estate of, 91 Sked^hult, 95 78, 84, 123; Llda, 72; Siifsjo, 87 Skeen, 88 Safve, 73 ; Gotha, 73 , 82; Safstaholm, Chateau of, 70 Skellefte River, 132, 138 Moliidal, 74; Motala 78; Siifvar, 138 Skelleftea, ij8 Staugan, 78; Tinns, 84; Safve River, 7 ? Skenninge, 126 Let, 84 ; Gullspananiir, 95 Steamers, 7, 70, 97, 10?, 127 Rydboholm, 65 Skanzen, 106 Stehag, 90 l^yr, 124 Skara, 72 Stenharnmar, 70 Ryssby, 96, 127 Skarfven, 107 Stenninge, 107 INDEX. 151 STENSTKUi'P. TJERBY. UPPBO. Stenstrupp, 72 Stromna, cotton-mill, 99 Tjomatis, 142 Sten Sture, 52, 7? Strcimsholm, 106 'Jjorn, is' and of, loi ' (the Younger), 125 Canal, 106 Tjust, valley of, 127 Stjernhof, no Palace of, ic6 '1 oksforss, 103 Syernarp, 100 Stromstad, 102 Ton.elilla, 90 Stjernsund, 71 Succinct Account of Sweden, Tontin, mountains of, loi Stockaryd, 87 18 Toppo, Falls of, 81 Stockholm, 50, 121; inns. Suderby, iji Torboda, 81 50 ; Stora SaUskapet (Club), Sund, 85 Tore, 138 50; cafes, 50; post-office. Sundbyholm, 67 Toreko\v, 100 51 ; commissionaires (stads- Sundswall, 119, 1^4, IJ7 Torne River, 132, 135 bud), 51 ; steamboats, 51 ; to Umea, 157 Tomed, 119, 136 cabs or droskas, 51; car- to Ostersund, 119 Torpa, estate of, 125 riages, omnibuses, 5 1 ; his- Sunholmen Castle, 125 Torpane, 104 tory, 51 ; palace, 5? ; Chapel Suntertun, 99 Torps post-office, 119 Royal, 53 ; state apart- Surahammar iron-works, 106 Torshalla, 67 ments, 5 J ; royal library. Suulsiuen, 120 Tortsebro powder-mills, 89 54; picture gallery, 55; Svana iron-works, 68 Tours in Sweden, 39 royal t^tables. 55 ; churches. Svante Sture, 87, 112. Tranas, 90 56; Roval Mausoleum, 56; Svardsbro, 69, 70 Travelling, modes of, 4 National Museum, 58 ; Svart River, 68, 78, 84, 12J requishes for, 5 Academy of Sciences, S9 ; Svarta, 8j Trelleborg, 9? Institutes, 59 ; hospital. iron-works, 70 submarine telegraph, 9; 60; mint, 60; theatres. Svarteberg, 101 Trensum, 98 60; public buildings, 6t; Svarthall, 67, 122 Tristad, 125 parks, 62 ; Palace ot Rosen- Svartla, 140 Troasca, 127 dal, 62 ; manufactories, 6j : Svartsjo, 65 Trolleberg, chateau of, 93 environs, 6j Svartvik, i J4 TroUe-Ljunby, 89 Stockht>lm to Christiania, 8j Svinbogen Lake, 91 TroUeniis, 90 to Christianstad, 94 Svinesund Fjord, 102 Troilerit^ .rp, 88 to Falun, 1 04, j 06 Swans, wild, 94 Trollliattan, 102 to Gothenburg, 69, 75 Swedish Colonel, treacher- , Falls of, 8 r to Harpaianda, 1 32 ously murdered, 1^5 Trosa, 70 to Malmo, J- 5 'J'ros.-a, island of, 98 to Orebro, &c., 122 Trostkage, 13Z • to Tronihjem, 119 T. Trout, 7;, IJ2, 140, 141, 143 to Upsala, 1 07 Tiyken Lakes, 84 to Wisby and island of Taberg Mountain, 86 Tumba, 69 Gotland, 1 28 iron-mines, 84 Tuna, 137 Stocksjo, IJ7 Tafra, 137 Tunaiund, 105 Stock-sound, 52 Tagarp, 91 Tunsta, 117 • Stoinge, 100 'J^anno, 88 Tycho Brahe, 108 Stora Aby, 70 Tanto sugar refinery, 69 Tynninge, 71 Koppaiberg, 115 Tarajock River, 142 ].ee Lake, 10? Tarnaby, 105 Limugnen, 86 Tatorp, 81 u. Ror, 96 Taxel River, 1J4 Sundby Teckoomatrp, 90 Uddevalla, loi Storbacken, 14c Tegner, Bishop, 87 to Norrkliping, 73, 124 Storbyn, 121 Telegraph, submarine, 91, 03 Ulby, 117 Uleaborg, 121 Storsjo Lake, 120 Tenhult, 86 Storvik, 115 Tersen, Count Axel, monu- Ullasa, chateau of, 79 St. Petersburg to Stockholm, ment to, 95 UHstorp, 125 121 Thirty Years' War, men- Ul!er,«ater, 124 St. Sigfrid, tomb of, 87 tioned, 25, 79, 108 Ulricehamn, 128 Sturefors, 127 Thorsbv, 84 Ulriksdal, 63 Straken, 85 Tibbie, 104 UUuna Agricultural Insti- Lake, 88 Tims Kiver, 84 tute, 109 Stralsund to Malmo, or Stock- Tinga Lake, 89 Ulvettern Lake, 84 holm, i?i Tingj-hug, 113 Ume River, 1 J2 Strand, 104, 105 Tingvalla, 84 Umea, i?4, 137 Strangso, 94 Tisken Lake, 115 to Pi tea, 138 Strengnas, 66, 67 Tiveden, forest of, 71 Union of Calmar, 23 Strtimbro, cotton-mill, 136 Tivoli, 89 Unnaryd, 86 Stromming fishery, 1^4, 137 Tjerby, loo Ui>pbo, 105 152 iNDEl. UPPERUD. Upperud, 85 iron- works, 103 Upsala, 109 ; inns, 109 ; post- office, 109; telegraph office, 109; stables, 109; cathe- dral, no ; University, in ; Gustavian Academy, in; Caroline Eediviva, in ; Caroline Park, 112; Bo- tanical gardens, 112; house of Linnasus, 112 ; castle, 112 Upsala, Old, 112 Utmeland, 118 Uto, iron-mines, 128 Uttersburg, 124 Uttram Lake, 69 Utvik, IJ7 Vaikijaur Lake, 141 Valmasen, 121 Vanas, 89 Veberod, 90 Vestgaard, 102 Vidijstern Lake, 88 Viken, 91, 121 " Vikingar," loi Vindel Kiver, 13 2 Vocabulary, n Vretakloster, 79 w. Waderbrunn, Agricultural School, 70 Wadstena, 71, 80, 86, 120 , Castle of, 80 Walla, 7oJj westerIs. WallSkra,^9i Wammeln Lake, 70 Walskog, 124 Wanas Point, 80 Wangsjo, 105 Wara, 125 Warberg, 100 Wargarla, 73 Waring, 71 Waringen Lake, 174 Wiirnaby, 97 Warnhem Church, 71 Wartofta, 85 Wasa, 121 Gustavus, 2 J, 116, 118 Wdsby, 105, 109 Wase, 8j Wassbotten Bay, 81 Wassmolosa, 97 Waterfalls : — Trollhdttan, 81 ; Gullo, 81 ; Toppo, 81 ; Stampestrom, 81 ; Helve tes, 81 ; Flottbergstrom, 81 ; Djupadal, 98 ; Finnafors, 120; Hufoudniis, 124; Ede- fors, 140; Jockmock, 140; Hedenfors, 140 Wattjom, 119 Waxholm, ijj , fortress of, 122 Weda, IJ7 Wedevag, iron-works of, 123 Wedum, 125 Weights, 4 Wenern Lake, 8r, lOi Wenersborg, 73, 81, 10 j, 124 Wenneberga Bridge, 78 Wernamo, 86 Wessman Lake, 107 West Gotha Canal, 81. Westana, 119 Westanfors, 106 Westeras, 68, 104 Westerdal River, 115 Westervik, 87, 95 Westra Ed, 105 Wettern Lake, 80 Wexio, 87 Wiborg, 121 Wickarby, 118 Wida, 95 Widtskofle, chateau of, 89 Wieslanda, 88 Wifsta, 134, 137 Wik, 85, 102 Wiken Lake, 81 WilkGl, 88 Willow-grouse, 143 Wimmerby, 87 Wingaker, 70 Winniuga, 72 Winstof, 89 Wiren Lake, 70 Wirsbo iron- works, 106 Wirum's copper-works, 95 Wisbohammar, 69 Wisby, 128; hotels, 128; his- tory, 1 2 8 ; Helge- Ands Ky r- kan (Church of the Holy Ghost), 129 ; churches, 129; population, ijo Wisingso, island of, 85, 126 Wiska River, 125 WoUsjo, 90 Wni, 88 Wretstorp, 71 Y. Yfre, 114 Yngen Lake, 84 Ystad, 89, 90 Yxe iron- works, 123. LONDON: FEINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS XUEEAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. I 1871. x'ne best Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. 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I )ubot8 Rbnou & Fils. LEGHORN ^ Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Maquat, Hookek, & Co. t Mr. M. RrsTORi. LEI PZIG Mr. J. E. OEiiLsciiLAGER'a Successor. LISBON Mr. E. Boukgard. LQCERN E Messrs. F. X^orr & Fils. MADRAS Messrs. Binny & Co. MALAGA Mr. George Hodgson. Mr. J. A. Mark. r Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josb. Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada MALTA -j Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Foktunato Testa, 92, Strada b^a ' Lucia. MANNHEIM Messrs. Evssen & Claus. MA RI EN B A ! ) ]M r. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. MAliSElLl.ES Messrs. Claude Cleec & Co. M A YENCE Mr. G. L. Kayskr. Expediteur. MEN TONE Mr. Palmaro, Mr. Jean Orengo Fils. MESSINA Messrs. Cailler, VValkkr, & Co. MILAN ^ ^^''' ^^' ^ Ri^i'PKT, Piazza «1i S. Sepolcro, No. 1 ( Messrs. Kratelli Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich & Co. MUNICH i Messrs. Wimmkr & Co., Priiitsellers, Brieuner Strasse, 3. Messrs. I Bleichkr & Andreis. Messrs. Squindo & Soheuer. j^Aprgg C Messrs. Igguuden & Co. iVJessre. W. J. Puknkh&Co. Mr. G. I ScALA, Witje Mt-rchant, 42. Via Coiicezione di Toledo. NTFW YORK Messrs. Austin, Baldwin, & Co. (auiaai.) ^ > Messrs. BouviER Fkkbes, Wine Merchants. Messrs. HumbektSc Co. jrmg i Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consubite Messrs, M. & N. ( GiouDAN. Mr. H Ullrkh, M.M. Mignon Frekes,9, RueParadis. NUREMBFRC ^ ^^- ^^^'^ Conrad Cnopf. F3anker and Forwarding Agent. <. Mr. A. PicKERT, Dealer in Anriquities. Mr. Max Pigkert. OST END Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. M ack and Co. PALERMO Me.sgrs, Ingham. VVHiTrAKKB, & Co. PARIS Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Crcnx Petits Champs, No. 24. PAQ Mr. J. Mttsgrave Clay. Mr. Bergerot. pjg^ (Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. \Mr. G. Andreoni, ditto ditto. PRAGUE i ^^^' ^^' I^t>*"MANN, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stem. ^"* ( Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. QUEBEC Messrs. Forsyth & Pemberton. jT Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. PQTijj^ j Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs. \ Spada, Flamini, & Co. Messrs. Furse Bros. & Co. Mr. Luigi ( Branchini, at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shea. ROTTERDAM Messrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. SANREMO MM. Asquasciati Fbeees. SCHAFFHAUSEN .. Mr. Fred Hoz. SEVILLE Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. M. J. A. Baillt, SM Y RN A Messrs. Ha nson & Co. ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. ThomsnilerousRocks, Secondary Fossils, from the Tiias, IJa.^, Oolite, VVealden, and Cretaceous Groups. Tertiary Foss-ls, from the Woolwicli, Bart«»n, and Hra«klebhani Btds, London Clay .Crag, &c. In the njore expensive Collections bome of the Specimens are rare, and all more select;. ELEMENT AEY LECTURES ON MINEHALOGY AND GEOLOGY, adapted to young persons, are given i.y J. TLNNAiNl', F.R.G.S., 'at hiA residence, 149, STRAND, VV.C, and Private instri cr;oN to Travellers, Kngimers, Fmigrants, Landed Proprietors, and others, lUusirated by an extensive colleciion of Specimens, Diagrams, Models. &c. All 'he recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also GeoiOL.FS TOH4^ (Sqwai-e), (NEXT HOUSli: TO THE RYDBEKG HOTEL). Scandinavian, English, French, and German Books, TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and Norwegian Peasant Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. "BRADSHAW'S RAILWAY GUIDE "and "HENDSCHEL'S TELEGRAPH." 0. E. FEITZE, Bookseller^GustafAdolfs Torg, Stockholm. VENICE. CARLoTpONTI. OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is the Inventor of the Optical Instrument known under the name MEGALETHOSCOPE, (first called Alethoscope), the most perfect mstrument for magnifying photographs and showing them with the effects of night and day. His ISOPEEISCOPIC SPECTACLES gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and I*adua, and were pronounced by the scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all others, as well as being more raodeiate in price. His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marco, No. 52, near the Cafe Florian ; and his Optical Establishment at Riva del Schiavoni, Ko. 4180, near the Albergo Heale. Con espondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M*Cracken, 38, Queen Street, annon Street, E.C. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 FRANKFORT. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, BCDHIgMMM FAM(DY GMS§ AM® (DEYOTAL WAMHOTUgEo . P, A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. Tacchi's Successor has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, OPPOSITE THE THEATRE, Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor. His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Purchases made of him, is Mr* LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C. i2 ■ MURRAY^S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, CHARLES CARR & CO., (J/r. CARE, late of the Firm of OTAVItU # CAUU), 14, BISHOPSaATE STEEET WITHIN, LONDON, E.G., COMMISSION MERCHANTS, General Agents for the Reception and SMpment of Goods from and to all Parts of the World, AND WINE MERCHANTS. riHAKLES CAKR & CO. have the honour to inform ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, that they leccivc and pass through the Custom House in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WOEKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PEOPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION; winch are attended to on Anival under their Lersonul Superintendence, with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, AND AT very Moderate Charges, regulated according to the value of the Packages, and the care ahd attention required. Keys of all locked Packages should be sent to C. C. & Co., as everything must be examined on arrival, although not liable to duty. CHARLES CARR & CO. also undertake the FOEWAEDINQ OF PACKAGES OF EVEEY KIND, which can be sent to the care of their Correspondents, to remain, if required, until applied for by the owners ; also THE EXEOUTION of OEDEES for the PUECHASE of GOODS, oF all kinds, which from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they aie enabled to buy en the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering anything they may require from London. INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. Packages Waukhouskd at MooEnATE Rates of Rent. 1871. MURRAY'S HAi\I)BOOK ADVERTISER. 13 €IIAS. €AEiR & CO.'S principal Correspondents are — Messrs. A. SOUHKUH and CO. Me.-8rs. VLEU(ifc:LS and CO. Mr. J. WIIjI). 12, Steincnthorstrasse. Mr. J. A. FiSCHEK. Agent to the Conrt. Messrs. ANTONIO MAZ/.p:rri and CO. Messrs. ALBRECFTr and FILS. Messrs. L BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. Mr. G. LQYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. Messrs. L. J. VOGUh: and CO. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTHHEN and CO. Mr. R. WEIGANI); Messrs. SCHEFFLEH, SIEG, & CO. Messrs. HASKARl) and SON. Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. ; Mr. Hhe. STEASSE. Mr. E. MOLO; Mr. J. V. BUCHLl. Messrs. HOFMKIS PER. SCHEFFLER, and SIEG. Messrs. CHR. EG LIN and MA RING. Messrs. RIPSCHARD and BURKi. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. Messrs. J. THOMSON HENDERSON and CO. Messrs. ROSE and CO Messrs. G IRAQI » FhJiRES. Messrs. G. BONO and CO.. 8, Via Agnello. Messrs. G U T L E B EN and W Ell) ER V. Messrs. CEKULLi and CO. ; Mr. G. CJ VALLERI, Messrs. M and \. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur le Port.) Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSaNMRI. MHssrs. J. ARTHUR and CO., 10, Rue Castiglione. M. HECrOK L'HEKBIER, 18, Rue de la Douaue. Mr. BERGEROr. Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000. Mr. J. P. SHEA. U, Hiaz/.a di Spagna; Mr. A. TOM BIN I. Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. Mr. G. A. RAI IT. Mr. GAETANO PIETROBONI. Mr. F»o TOLOMEJ DI Fco „ Vienna ...... Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to CHAS. CARR & CO, 14, Bishopsgate Street Within, ^PrTce 1j ST~^F "win ES IMPORTED BVr CHABLES CARR AND CO.. AGZNIS TO GROWERS. Per do/.tn. CLARETS—^ledoc 15s. to '2U. St. Estephe. Margaux, &c 30s. to 36s St. Julieri, iVc 42s. Other Qualities .... 48S. to 1505. BUflGUNDIE;S— B'-auuj 24s. to 30*-. At Aix la- Chapelle . „ Anttuei-p „ Basle . „ Berlin „ Bologna „ Bordeaux . „ Boulogne „ Brmsds „ Calais . „ Cologne „ Dresden „ Florence „ Frankfort „ Geneva „ Genoa . „ Ham burg . „ JIaiyre „ Int'^lacLen „ Leipzig „ Leghorn „ Malta . „ Marseilles , „ Milan . „ Munich „ Naples „ Nice „ fJstend „ Paris . , Pan . , Prague , Borne . , Botterdaiii , Turin . , Venice . Vol nay . 361. . 484. to 42s. (^ther Qualities 484. to 8Js. Chablis 30s. to 54s. HOCK-Oppenbeim 2ls. Nierntein . . , , . . . . 30s. Hochhfim 36s. to 42s. Other Qiialitif'S ASs. to 120s. SPARKIjING HOCK and MOSELLE 42s. to 54s. CHA!yLPA.a-NE 42.«t. to72s. 8H^'RRIES-P^le, Gold, &o 3^)4. to 60s. PORT . , ' , .,..,....,, 36s. to 72s. Fine Old ViutUK"} Wines , , 24«, to 126«, MARSALA ,.,,,,.... 2ei.to30«, ANP OTHKH WINES, CUr«t8. Burgundies, SUevrlPB, &o., by the Hogslieiiil or HalMlogihefta at reduced Pfic««, mikil%' are constructed in the very best manner, of the strongest wrought iron, fitted with Chubb's Patent Drill-pre- ventive and their Gunpowder-proof Stekl-plated Locks, are the most secure from fire and burglary, and form Ijiiij the most complete safeguard tor Hooks, '^ Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. CHUBB Si SON have also strong wrought-iron Safes,ivithout fire-resisting lining, but equally secure in all other respects, intended for holding pl.ite where protection from fire is not an object, and affording much more room in.side than ^ the Patent Safes. They are recom- mended specially in placebo t^the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be broken open. ^ BUENOS AYRES GOYEKNMExNT CEBTIFICATE. Translation. We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas C. Thompson & Co., certify that the Iron Safes of Messrs. Chubb & Son, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were exposed for f^everal hours to the Mre that took place \n the offices of the National Govern- ment on the evening of the 26th instant ; that in our presence thfy were easily opened with their respective keys: that tlie moneys and Important documents they contained were found ' in perfect order, and that these Safes ftve now in ufcO in the National Treasury Office.— Buenos Ayrea, 31st July, 1867. (Signed) J. M. Prago, Treasurer of the National Government. Jose Tom as Ko.to. Juan M. Alvauez. a. true copy— A. M. Bfxl. Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, gratis and post-free. CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 67;, St. Paur^ Qhurchyard, London, E.G. 16 MCrKIlAY'S IfANUliOOK ADVEKTISEK. Jlay, VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. OLI^^IEJDa Ac O O., 37, Finsbury Square, London, (Mb. OUVIEK ESTABIilSHEU IN 1830,) COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS For Shipment and deception of Goods to and from all Farts of the Worlds and IMPORTERS OF WINES, ^c, rvLIVIER & CO. have the honour to inform ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, which are attended to on arrival with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their own personal superintenden(^e. They beg to call particular attention to their Moderate Charges, which have given universal satisfaction. Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency : — On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. „ „ ,, „ of larger „ „ 20s. to 25s. ,, On very large Cases of valuable Statuary j Pictures, &c., on which an estimate i arc — Messrs. A. SOUHEUK and CO. Mr. J. W. BROWNE. Mr. F. VRRELLP]N E-SERNAERl. Messrs. VLEUGELS and CO. Mr. J. J. FREY. Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. Messrs. H. and 0. BEYERMAN and CO., Wuic Growers. Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and Co. Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montagne de la Cour. Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and CO. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Aposluli. Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO. Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Mr. MORITZ B. G0LDSCHM1DT, Banker. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAUVIN, DIAMANTI, and COSTA. Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and GO. Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. Messrs. J. THOMSON, HENDERSON and CO. Messrs. ROSE & CO. Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. Messrs. GIO. CURTl & FIG". Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. CMr. G. CIVALLfi:RI, 267, Riviera di Chiaja. I Messrs. CERULLI & CO., 29, Vittoria. [le Port. Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. [Martin, 43. Messrs. LANGLOIS FILS FRERES, Rue des karais St". M. HECTOR L'HERBIER, 18, Rue de laDouane. Mr. BERGEROT. Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibemergasse, No. 1000. Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. Mr. A. TOM BIN J, 23, Place St. Louis des Franpais. Mr. J. A. HOUWENS ; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. Messrs. MARTIN FR&RES. Mr. CHIABODO PIE FRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. Mr. HENRY DECOPPE T. Mr. F'^" TOLOMEI DI F^o Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CO., 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. PRICES OF y^ I N E S IMPORTED BY OLIVIER AND CO., At Aix-la-Chapelle , Alexandria , Antwerp . , Basle . . , Bologna . , Bordeaux , Boulogne . , Brussels . , Calais , Cologne . , Constantinople , Dresden . , Florence . , Frankfort , Geneva . , Genoa , llamhurg , Havre , Interlaclcen , Leipzig . , Leghorn . , Malta , Marseilles , Milan . , Munich , Naples , Nice . , Ostend , Paris . , Pau . , PragiLe , Roine . , Rotterdam , Trieste . , Turin , Venice , Vienna . AGENTS TO GROWERS. Claret, Shipped by P. Beyerman, Bordeaux .... Burgrundy „ Dumoulin aine, Savigny-sous-Beaune Hock &. IVIoselle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz . „ Sparlcling, „ . . Champagrne IVEarsala, in Qr. Casks, from at'll ; Hhds. je2l . . . Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to -635, delivered Claret, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, at Growers' Prices. Detailed Price Lists may be had of 0. & Co., 37, Finsbury Square. per doz. duty paid. 18S., 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s. ■ 24s., 28s., 36s,, to 84s. 24s., 30S., 36s., to 120s. 48s. to 60s. 48s. to 72s. 26s. to 30s. 42s. to 60S* 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav. ZURICH. HOTEL DE L'EPEE AU LAC. Ill the midst of the Town, at the Wein Square on the Lake. High roomed and well aired House. A magnificent View from the Terrace over the Alps and Lake, especially u])on the Mountain of Zurich, and from the Glacier Glarnish to the Titlis. DINNER AT EVERY HOUR. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ANGLO-ITALIAN BANK (LIMITED). London Office - - 16, Leadenhall Street. Florence Branch - - 3, Piazza San Gaetaffo. Naples Branch - - Piazza del Municipio. Genoa Agency - - 10, Piazza Senole Piz. This Bank issues Letters of Credit on its Brandies and Agencies in Italy, which cash Bank of England and Circular Kotes of the principal London Banks. Aberdeen Polished Granite Monuments, FROM £5. Letter Cutitxg Accukatk and Beautiful. Best Quality Graiutc and Marble Work of all kinds. Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted complete Plans, Prices, and Carriage free Terms to all parts of the World, from LEGGE, SCULPTOR, MAYENCE. HOTEL I>'^lVGM:^ETEItIiE. HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated in front of the^ Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Eooms are Picturesque Views of the Rhine and^ Mountains. Galignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The Table-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Ehenish Winfes and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prices. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 GEN EVA. F. GEIVAZ, MANUFACTURING JEWELLER, No. 10, GRAND QUAI. Onlii Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto de Topozes discovered in August, 1868, in the fountains da GcUan- stock, Canton d' Uri. Ax immense choice of Jewels in the first taste will be found here, and all the Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. This house was founded in 1837, and is highly recommended by the nu- merous travellers who have visited it. GARY'S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. {See • Murray's Handbook') Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe- matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, for the use of Naval and Military OfiBcers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by oflBcers and other gentlemen : from 11. Is. ; ordinary metal from 2l. 10s. Gary's improved Achro- matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test objects; from 21. 15s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker by special appointment to the War Office, Admiralty, I'rlnity House, Roy a Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geogra- phical Society, Christ's Hospital, Trinity House, King's College, &c.; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. GOULD & PORTER, Successors to GARY, 181, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH, LEICESTERSHIRE. ROYAL HOTEL, FAMILY, COMMERCIAL, AND POSTING HOUSE, E. H. MILLS, PROPRtEtOK. This first-rate and old-established Family and Commercial Hotel, within twd minutes' walk of the Railway Station, and adjoining the celebrated IVANHOE BATHS, will be found replete with every comfort, combined with economy, fur the reception of Families and Visitors. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. C. A. LOHR, PROPRIETOK OP THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. rpHlS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate J- superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The ** Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — H.M. THE KING AND QITEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WUETEMBERa H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table-d'h6te at 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. » » 5. an. Tea, ^2kr. Bed Rooms, from Ifl, to 3fla ^0 MUHRAY^S ttANbfeOOK ADVERTISER. May, PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.G. Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign OiB.ee Passports. nOUNTRY or LONDON Residents, \J by forwarding a Banker's Application, or Certificate of Jdentity, can have a PASSPORT obtained. Country Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of a personal attendance. Fee obtaining Passport, Is. 6d. ; Visas, Is. each. Passports carefuUy Mounted and Cased, and Names lettered thereon in Gold. Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. BRADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS to France, Belgium. Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). Tourist's Handbook to Great Britain, &c. Baedeker's Handbooks, Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's Pyrenees. Brapshaw's Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. 1*'. each. Bradshaw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. Bradshaw's Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. Kellar's, Leuthold's, and Ziegler's Maps of Switzerland. Mayr's Map of the TyroL. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door- fasteners. Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, &c. Harper & Applkton's Handbook to Furope and the East. Black's Guides to P^ngland, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. Phrase Books end Dictionaries. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. GENEVA HOTEL DES BERGUES. F. WAOHTER, Pro]Prietor. In a matdliless position, and of Eurdpdan rdputatioh, tlii;^ large First-class Hotel was entirely re-arranged and freslily decorated in 1870, witH the addition also of a new siiperb *' Salon de Conversation." Unrivalled for its fine Cellai* of Wines, its Dinners, and prompt attendance. PENSION FOR THE WINTER MONTHS, at very moderate Prices* 1871. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 6 & 7, CHAKING CEOSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports (which are good for life) mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Koan, Morocco, or Russia Case, with the name of the Owner lettered on the oU'Side, thus preventing injury or lo55, as well as lessening the delay in examination abroad. For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c., see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on receipt of One Stamp. Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp, STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- aries, &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, and kept con, stantly in stock by Ei>\vard Stanford. London; EDWARD STANFORD, 6 k 1, Charing Cross, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. G EN EVE. GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. THIS first-rate, splendid Hotel has the advantage of being the most pleasantly situated in Geneve, on the Quai du Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in Iront of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. From the Garden and two delightful Terraces, and from each window of the Hotel, Mont Blanc, the Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent. Charges moderate. Table-d'Hote three times a day. Is the resort of the first English and American Families. MAYER & KXJIJZ, Proprietors. First-rate House, containing about one hundred large Apartments and Saloon^ for FamilieSy having been lately enlarged, ENGLISH S POKEN AND ENGLISH NEWSPAPP^RS KEPT. V E V E Y. GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY, Opened February 1868. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE in every rf^spect. Splendid situation in the midst of a large Park, on the Lake shoi'e. Magnificent view in all directions. Baths in the Hotel. Lift. Telegraphic Bureau. Landing- place for the Lake Steamers (Grand Hotel). Omnibus at the Eailway Station. Board during the Winter Season. ALFRED HIRSCHY. ' 22 § 12. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Sweden, as prophet, priest, and king, and was followed by his son, Freyer, who removed his capital from Sigtuna to Upsala, where he built a temple, which became the most celebrated spot for Pagan worship in the North. Freyer's surname of Yngve became the proudest distinctions of his descendants, Avho were thenceforth called Ynglingar, The dynasty of this sacred race, as it is called, ended with Olaf Trsetelia, who, upon the invasion of Sweden by Ivar Yidfamne, left the country, about a.d. 630, and laid the foundation of a new power in Norway. But very few members of the dynasty of the Ynglings died a natural death. Most of them fell in battle, or by their own hands, or were murdered by their subjects ; and one of them, Domald, was sacrificed on Odin's altar, to propitiate the gods in a year of famine. Upon the conquest of Sweden by Ivar, he united in himself the crowns of that kingdom as well as of Gothland and Denmark. He was also of ' Odin's race, being descended from Skjold, whose seat was in Zealand. The dynasty of the Skjoldungs, founded in Sweden by Ivar, continued to pre- vail throughout the rest of the Pagan age, and even beyond it, to the middle of the 11th century. Throughout this period the people appear to have been continually engaged in piratical expeditions, and in war with each other or the neighbouring States. Christianity appears to have been first openly preached in Sweden by St, Ansgar, during the reign of Bjorn I., in the 9th century ; but the long line of Sweden' s Pagan kings only terminated with Eric the Victorious, who is said to have himself at one time embraced Christianity. His son and suc- cessor Olaf, surnamed Skotkonung (^Laphing), because he was proclaimed king elect while yet a baby on his mother's lap, became the first Christian sovereign, having been publicly baptized at Husaby in Westgothland by St. Sigfrid from England, about the year a.d. 1000, after which he changed the regal title of Upsala king to that of king of Sweden. During his reign many churches were built and three bishoprics established, and from that time Sweden may be regarded as a Christian state, although paganism still lingered in the country for a long time afterwards. During nearly the whole of the first three centuries of the Christian era in Sweden, continued disputes and warfare arose between the Swedes and Goths for the possession of the supreme authority. These disensions ulti- mately terminated in favour of the Swedes, whose sovereigns assumed the title which is in use at the present time — " King of the Swedes and Goths." During the regency of Birger Jarl, which commenced in 1250, Stockholm was founded and fortified, the written laws of the kingdom revised, and the internal administration greatly improved. Sweden's greatest king during the Middle ages was Magnus I., who reigned 15 years, from 1275. Prior to his accession the country had been continually distracted by intestine commotions, and the despotic conduct of the nobles was most oppressive Sweden, § 12. historical notice. 23 upon the peasants. His wisdom, firmness, and justice enabled him to crush these disorders, and to bestow upon his subjects the blessings of tranquillity and order. During the reign of his successor, Birger, his able and patriotic minister, Thorkil, caused a law to be passed against the sale of slaves, on the ground that it was in the highest degree criminal for Christians to sell men whom Christ had redeemed hy his blood. This noble truth Sweden has the immortal honour of having promulgated and established in the early part of the 14th centurj^ ; a truth which Avas not practically recognised in England with respect to the Negro race for upwards of 400 years after- wards. The dissensions which again distracted the country after the death of Magnus, finally terminated in 1389 by the defeat and capture of the Swedish king, Albert, and the crown of the Swedes and Goths being united with those of Denmark and Norway upon the brow of Margaret, known as the Semiramis of the North. It was, however, not until several years after this event that all Sweden was finally reduced to her sway. In 1397 she convoked the States, and caused the celebrated compact to be entered into between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, known as the Treaty of Calmar. The leading objects were — to maintain the union in perpetuity of the three kingdoms under one sceptre ; to preclude either of them from making war upon the other ; and to form an alliance defensive and offensive in the event of war with any foreign power. Margaret was succeeded, in 1412, by Eric of Pomerania, who married Philippa, daughter of Henry IV. of Eng- land. During the king's absence in Sweden she heroically and successfully defended Copenhagen, when besieged in 1428. The Union of Calmar was maintained with difficulty for little more than a century ; the flames of discord which arose from it in Sweden were for a moment quenched in the blood of numbers of her most illustrious citizens, who were massacred by the orders of Christian II., under circumstances of the greatest treachery and barbarity. Amongst the slain was Eric Wasa, a senator, and of an ancient family in Sweden. But his son, Gustavus Ericson Wasa, lived to avenge his father's blood and his own wrongsj and, by his courage and commanding talents, to found a new dynasty. After incurring the greatest dangers and hardships in Dalecarlia, he at length succeeded in rousing the people to take arms against their oppressors, and under his guidance the Danes were finally driven out in 1523. At a meeting of the States in the same year he was elected king, and with that election terminated the fatal Union of Calmar. The accession of Gustavus Wasa to the throne formed a new era of the highest importance in the history of Sweden. The leading feature in the records of the country throughout the Middle Ages, was the frequent struggles of the people J:o regain that power and influence which their ancestors had enjoyed under the free institutions of the Pagan age ; and 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. p. ROMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolinl, has opened a Gallerj^ Lung' Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed. Principal Works :— The Son of William Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash- ington ; the Young Whittington ; the Young Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. J. FIELD, House and Estate Agent, Auctioneer, &e., THE LODGE, Ko. 3, GARY PARADE, TORQUAY. The Nobility, Gentry, and Families gene- rally, requiring Furnished or Unfurnished Residences in Torquay or its neighbourhood, receive every attention and information, either personally or bj^ letter, on application to Mr. J. F., whose whole time is especially devoted to House Agency, Sales by Auction, &c., &c. All letters of enquiry must please coqtft-in a postage stamp. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. B. A. BREMOND, MANUFACTURER, Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. WHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION, 7, RUU PRADIER, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL GENEVA. r>E lX^coxji^otvive. Proprietor, Mr. F. BADE. THIS ESTABLISHMENT, of tlie first Eank, completely newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont dii Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam^boat lauding, and the Englisli Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and American newspapers. Tables-d'Hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. BRIZ ZI IWCusical FLORENCE. A N Id N I C C O L A I ' S E stalblislimeiii:. PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, roil SALE AND ON HIRE. GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Italian and Foreigrn Music. Musical Lending Library. PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH HOUSE (Music Dep6t) PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. | 12, VIA CERRETANL 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MUDIES SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Grii-inea per* .A.iiiiixmL-, COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. ! BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBEKAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. CONSISTING CHIEFLY OF WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES, Catalogues postage free on Applioation. MUDIE'S SELECT LIBEARY, New Oxford Street, London. CITY 0FFICE~4, King Street, Cheapside. ANTWERP HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL, 'l^HIS Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the well-meyited favour of Families and Tourists, has been repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- Spaenhoven ; who, with his Partner, will do everything in their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. Baths in the Hotel, 26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, The Prince of Wales. By Appointment to H.R.H. ALIENS PORTMANTEAUS 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered Articles for 1871 Post Free. ALLEN S PATENT BAC , ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau. ALLEN'S SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE. ALLEN'S EXPANDING PORTMANTEAU, ALLEN'S 10 GUINEA SILVER DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S NEW DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE. LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU. Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for Officers joining^ Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 27 IRELAND. POETRUSH. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, the Skebbees, and Lough Foyle. It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, Principally facing the Sea. A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, with Drawlng-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen, Table -d'Hote daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Billiard and Smoking Rooins. THE SEA BATHS, Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and bade daily during the Season. Visitors to the Hotel are respedf ally requested to he particular in inquiring for the ANTRTM ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BROWN, Proprietor. Portrush is the nearest Railvjay Station to the Gianfs Causeway. London and South-Western Railway, LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, HAVRE, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE, ?:very Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Doclcs, alongside the Steamer. Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 30/0; Second Class, 22/0. Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, 50/ ; Second Class, 36/. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST, MALO. DAILY MAIL SERVICE, Vid SOUTHAMPTON—Tiie favourite Route. Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 3 3/0 First ; 23/0 Second Class. Every Weekday. Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 48/ O First ; or 38/0 Second Class. The Last Train from Lomlon in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays , on irhich day the Last Train is at 5. is p.m., for Jersey only) for the Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. DIRECT SKRV^iCE TO ST. MALO. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday according to Tide. DIRKCT SERViCK TO CHERBOURG. Every Monday and Thursday, leaving Waterloo Station at 8*10 a.m. For further Information apply to Mr. De Vonlle, 3, Place Vendome, Paris. Mr. Langstaff, 47, Grand Qnai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleur. — Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. Spencer, Guernsey. — Captain Gaudin, St. Malo. — Messrs. Mahieu, Cherbourg. Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, DRESDEN. HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN, Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. npHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the -*- two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, adjoining the Briihrs Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, contains One Hundred Front Rooms, These apartments combine elegance and comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and distant Mountains, The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and private Promenade. Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Private Dinners at any hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, very advantageous arrangement^ will be offered, and every effort made to render their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carnages, Baths, Riding. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies* Parlour. GENEVE, GRAND QUAI 26. REYN^XJD & aLA.TOU, If imufiittttnt.? of HHttbcs Hnir l^belrjr. CHRONOMETERS and WATCHES with Complex Movements. Great Choice of Jewelry in entirely New Desig^ns. 3 MEDALS IN" 1867. HOUSE AT NICE, 15, QUAI MASSINA. Correspondents at I.OX»0]¥, PAKI8, and XJE'W YORK. JEverything sold at Manufacturers' Prices. PURE AERATED WATERS. ELLIS'S RUTHIN WATERS, Soda, Potass, Seltzer, liemonade, Lithia, and for GOUT, Lithia * and Potass. CORKS BRANDED " R. ELLIS & SON", RUTHIN," and every label bears their trade mark. Sold everywhere, and Wholesale by R. Ellis & Son, Ruthin, North Wales, London Agents : W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 THE SWISS AND THE UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY, Amalgamated, and Begistered according to Act of Parliament as the SWISS AND UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY. Which is composed of men of various nations, all of whom possess the highest testimonials, and are recommended to families who, on their travels, desire to rid themselves of the annoyances and encumbrances attending a tour in foreign lands, and thus " save time, temper, and money." No one is admitted as a Member in the above Society unless he is of the strictest integrity, and possesses all the necessary ijualifications for a competent Courier. For ENaAGEMENTS, Or any Information respecting Travelling on the Continent, APPLY TO THE SECRETARY OF THE Swiss and United Couriers' Society, 58, MOUNT STREET, GEOSVENOR SCJUARE, W., LONDON. T'O MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BERNE (Switzerland.) MUSICAL BOXES, WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, &G., &G., OF J, H. H E Hi L E H, AT BERNE. Manufacture unattained by any other House, BOLOGNA. GRAND HOTEL DITALIE. rpHIS First-class Establishment, newly re-fitted up, enjoys -L the most central situation in the town, and is close to all the most interesting Public Buildings. LAEGE AND SMALL WELL-PUENISHED APAETMENTS AND EOOMS. Well suppHed Eeading-room. Sitting-room with Piano. ENGLISH and PEENOH NEWSPAPEES. TABLE D'HOTE, &c. All the Attendants speak EngHsh, FrencL, &c. BILLIARDS. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. :)1 GENEVA HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE, Directed by Mr. CHARLES ALDINGER, formerly the well-known Proprietor of the Hotel de la Couronne, and now the Proprietor of the Hotel de la Metropole. '"PHIS large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favourable quarter of X the town, facing the Pont du Mont Blanc, with the English Garden in front, which is well provided with flowers and shrubs, and shady seats, and goes down to the edge of the lake. From the rooms in front there is a very fine view of the lake, and from those at the back the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc is seen in the distance ; and from an Observatory at the top of the house, of very easy access, both can be seen, and a very extended view of the surrounding country. It contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every variety, and the Proprietor himself superintends all the arrangements. A Reading Room, with all English, American, French, and German newspapers, and a spacious Coffee and Smoking Room are in the Hotel ; in short, every comfort Visitors can expect in a first-class Hotel is at their disposition. The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer ; and in winter is heated by large stoves. Charges are very moderate, and pension during the winter. Table-d'hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel 3 times a day. Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. G E N E V A . POUZET, OPTIOIEN, 3IANUFACTVBEB, Optical and Mathematical Instruments, particularly Telescopes, Opera Glasses, Barometers and Thermometers for Travelling, Glasses for Lunettes in Eock Crystal, Stereoscopes and Stereo- scopic Yiews on Glass. I A Complete Collection of Swiss and Italian Views. HOTEL OESTERREICHISCHER HOF, VIENNA. The undermentioned respectfully begs to recommend to the Nobility and the travelling Public in general his spacious first-clafcs Iiotel. The same is most advantageously situated in the centre of the city, near St. Stephen's Church ; it contains 165 rooms and saloons with balconies, and is fitted up with all modern comfort and luxury. Best I'rench cooking and first-rate wines (original) from all countries. Telegraph and Post Offices, baths and carriages. The attendance is most stiictly contiollcd. Re.-^pectfally, JOH. HEYDNERi Pkopkietoii. 32^ MtJRRArS. HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 1. CLASSICAL CATALOaUE. ' 10. NATURAL HISTORY 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- : CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- LOGUE. I ^^^77 Creology, Chemistry, Mathe- 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. : H. meScIl CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- '• ^cf^ISoajJ^^^''''''^^''^'' ''' SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- OAlAiuOCJUE. mentary Books, Maps, &c. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. , 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCtT* 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. ! LARS. New Books, and New X urchisGs 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 14 gciENTIFIC^BOOK CIRCU- 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- LARS. New Books and Eecent tecture. Painting, Illustrated Books. '• Purchases. ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. BADEN-BADEN. (jrand Hotel and Pension Belle Vue, (AlUe de LicJitenthal, dose to the English Church), Splendid situation, surrounded by large Pleasure Grounds. This Establishment is fitted up with every comfort and luxury. Restaurant Table d'hote at 1 and 6 o'clock. Reading Room. Carriage at the Hotel. Stabling and Coach-house. C. SILBERRAD, Pbopbietor. VIENNA. THE EMPRESS ELISABETH HOTEL {KAISERIN ELI8ABETE). JOHANN HEUGL, Proprietob. This Hotel is situated in the centre of the Austrian capital, near St. Stephen's Square, and much frequented by English and American families for many years past ; has been entirely and thoroughly repaired, and all its apartments newly and elegantly furnished by its new Proprietor. Handsome Dining-rooms and Dining- hali, with Garden, Reading and Smoking-rooms, have been added. English, American, and French Papers on file. Private Dinners a la carte at all hours of the day. English Waiters and Comtnissioners in attendance. Charges moderate. Cuisine superior. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 NEUCHATEL, SUISSE. , GRAND hOTEl"dU MONT BLANC, KEPT BY Messrs. BAUMERT and ROSER." THIS splendid Establishment, the largest, most important, and newest in Neuchatel, enjoys a fine view of the Lake and the Mountains, and is surrounded by a garden. It contains a magnificent Salle a Manger, Restaurant, Billiard ^and Smoking Room, a beautifully decorated Conversation and Reading Room, supplied with the best Newspapers. Baths at the Hotel. The Landlords, who have been for many years at the head of several of the best Continental Hotels, such as Bauer au Sac, Zurich ; Grand Hotel, Vevey ; Grand Hotel, Nice, will spare no pains to make the Visitors as comfortable as possible. VEVEY. HOTEL D'ANaLETERRE. ■piRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly Re-organized, situated on the banks of the Lake of Geneva, in front of the new Steam- boat Landing-place. Table d'Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Board during the Winter. Bath at the Hotel, Omnibus of the Hotel at the Railway Station. C. HAACK. VEVEY. GRAND HOTEL DU LAO. EDOUARD DELAJOUX, Pkoprietoe. plRST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely new, close to the Lake, and splendid view. SPLENDID SALON and DINING ROOM. Close to the Steam-hoat Landinq. 34 MtJRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GENEVA. Otel YTctoria, EUE DE MONT BLANC. Near the English Churchy the Railway Station^ and the Steam-hoat Landings. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. MALSCH BERTHOUD, Peoprtetok. Salon Smoking Room, and Batlis, in the Hotel. GENEVA. A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE, One and a-half hour from Geneve, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. MOIINUTIEB HOTEL DE LA RECONNAISSANCE, Kept by PEREEABD-FAURAX. OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. LAUSANNE. H O a_^ E i:^ €?- 1 T5 IS O IX- ' Mr. bitter, Proprietor. plEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in tlie finest part of the Town, is in every respect very highly recommended. Splendid View over the Lake in all its extent. Larg^e Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. PENSION DURING THE WINTER. LAUSANNE. HOTEL RICHE-MONT, Kept feY FRITZ RITTER. 'THIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- ■*■ mendations, and in a situation of surpassing ben at y. It is surrounded by Gardens and Promenades, and offers to Trayellers a highly desirable place of residence, or of temporary sojourn. 1871. MCRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTtSfcR. SS Important to the Travelling Public. PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT. THE CONTINENTAL DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS (ESTABLISHED 1849), SOLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government Bail- way and Kortli German Postal Confederation, and Correspondent of the Xoithern of France Railway, conveys by Mail. Steam Packets, Every Kight (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Kail and Post to destination, I'arcels and Packages of all liinds, between England and all parts of the Continent, at Thioiigh Rates which are very moderate, and include all charges, except Duties and Entries. Parcels should he hoohed as follows : — HOMENA^ARD.— From the Continent. In all Germany. At any Post-office of tlie North Geiman Postal Confederation, or of the Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, IkilyjSwitzei* land, Russia, Denmark, &c. Belgium. At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in Brussels, A. Crooy, 90 b:s, Montagne de la Cour ; or they can be sent direct to Mr. De Kidder, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Oitend. Holland. In the principal towns, Van Gend and Loos. France. Paris, G. Pritciiard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels for conveyance to England can be despatched from towns beyond Paris, with advice by Post. OUT\A^ARD.-To the Continent. In London. At Chief Office, 5o, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge, Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed}, or at the Universal Office, 34, Regent Cii'cus. In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford^ is^ottitigham, Southampton, Dover, and Folkestone, as stated in Books of Rates, which can be had gratis' on application to Chief Office. In other Towns, where no Agent is appointed, parcels should be sent under cover by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at above addiess^ with advice of contents, value, instructions for Insurance, nuli' u.— Fureig'n Ncwsspapcre; Heading Ruom and Ba lbs. 38 MURlUrS HANDBOOK ADVEFiTISER. May, COPENHAGEN. HOTEL IS^Olk^^L. H. C. aiLDSIG, Proprietor, THIS First-class Family Hotel, situated opposite the Royal Palace, and withia two minutes' walk of the Exchange, is patronized by the highest class of English and American travellers, on account of its central position for either business or pleasure. The Kooms ai-e light and airy, and the cooking particularly adapted to English taste. Table d'ilfite afc three o'clock, 2s. 3d. Kooms from 2s. SJ. and upwards. English, French, and German spoken, London Tiine^ and other papain taken in. CHRISTIANIA. (Norway,) HOTEL SCANDINAVIE. THIS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Moderate Prices. CHR. AUG. SMITH, Proprietor, E G YPT. ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. Pi; Spmal gippointmntt 10 ^^^ f-i J. i\t |mitc cf Wdc^, mtb f.S. lljx ^^^ f IjiJl^ih of %iipt. DAVID ROBERTSON & CO., English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, and General Oommission Agents, 10, Grand Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo. A Begister of English and American Travellers is Icept at tlie above Estahlishmeiit, and Visitors will receive any assistance or information they may require, English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and posted to all countries. DAVID ROBERTSON AND CO., ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 1871. MUlMlArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 LUCERNE, HOTEL SCH^V^EIZERHOF* HAUSER BROTHERS, Pkoprietors. THE liAROEST HOTEIi IN SWITZERI.AN». Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- hrated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. ^FHE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among Tiavellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden-Salon, and large Paiiour, attract the attention of e^ery Visitor. Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later parts of the Season. BERLIN. HOTEL D'AlSr&LETERRE, 2, PLACE AN DES BATJACADEMIE, 2. SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, Near to the Eoyal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, &c., all furnished and carpeted in the best JCnglish style. First-rate Table- d'H6te, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani's Messenger taken in. Residence of Pier British Majesty's Messengers. R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. INNSBRUCK, HOTEL GOLDEN SUN.— M. Hokandtner, Proprietor.— This first- class Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and only four minutes' walk from the Railway Station, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the patronage of travellers of all nations. The greatest care is given to the attendance. Large and small well-furnished Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. English speken. LUCERNE. SWAN HOTEL.— This Hotel, in the very best situation, enjoys a high character. Mr. H^EFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years a great many improvements, and does his utmost to offer to his visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new Ladles' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Jlay, DRESDEN. VICTORIA HOTEL, '"PHIS fine large Establistiment, situated on the public Prome- nade of the English quarter, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities, contains One Hundred Kooms. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. [ The Garden of ihe Hotel affords its guests an agreeable Promenade^ GABBIAGES. READING PtOOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. To Families or Singula Persons desirous of taking Apart- ments for the Winter, advantageous arrangements will be offered. Proprietor and Manager of the Hotel, CABL WETSS, DRESDEN. HOTEL DE L^ANGE D^OR. n^HIS first-class Hotel, situated in the very best quarter of the ^ town, close to the Roj'al Palace, the Museums, and the Theatre, recommends itself by its £^ood management and excellent cuisine. Large and small Apartments. English and French Newspapers. Table d'Hote. Restaurant and Private Dinners at all hours. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Prices very moderate in Winter, JOS. HENRION, Proppjetot?, ST. JOHANN, SAAEBRUCK. HOTEL ZIMMERMAN N. T AEGE and Small Apartments. Exquisite Cuisine and First- class Wines. Best Beds. Moderate Prices. Good Attendance. OMNIBUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. CARRIAGES TO BE HAD AT TH HOTEL. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 41 The Miniature Photographic Apparatus for Tourists, NO KNOWLEDGE OF P30T0GBAPHT BEQUISITE. Sole Manufacturers : MURRAy <& HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. Description and Prices forwarded on receipt of staniped envelope. HANOVER. XJNIOnsr HOTEL. ''I^HIS well-known first-class and favourite Hotel, for private -■- Families and Gentlemen, patronised by Her Royal Highne:ifi^ tq gljp s^tisfi?,ctio^ to the travelling G.ejitry and Q E N O A. HOTEL DES QUATRE MTIONS. CEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors. THIS Hotel can be strongly recommended : it is in one of the best situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, moderate charges, cleanliness, excellent Table-d'hote, as well as private service, with great attention and civility ; the comfort of visitors being consulted. JEnglish spoken hif tJie Proprietor. 50 MUKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, FRANKFORT O. M. FRIEDEICH BOHLER, ZEIL, No. 54, NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. PRIZE MEDAT., LONDON. 186S. jyC-A-l^TJIFJ^CTOI^:^ OIF* CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, CAKVED WOOD WOEK (Vieuxchene) Furniture & Fancy Objects, (flocks, li^amjjs, §xon}/s, Cbhm, innc^ girtttles of tbtxio g^^cription, SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling Articles, Toilette Eequisites, etc., etc. SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. Oeyiuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the JilUchspIatz, FIXED PRICES. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. 3871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 THE NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR 1833. Head Office— BISHOPSGATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET. St. James' Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. St. Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET, Capital. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL PAID-UP CAPITAL RESERVE FUND No. of SHAREHOLDERS ..£2,550,000 O .. 1,170,000 276,840 8 5 2,273. Mxtttax^. Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles Brudenell Bruce, M.F., i7, St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. John Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset Square. John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crotby Square. Henry M'Chlery, Esq., 16, Leadenhall Street. Henry Paull, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place, Portland Place, W. John Stewart, Esq., 4, Bank Buildings, Lothbury. Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart. 18, Cornwall Gardens, W. Richard Blaney Wadk, Esq., 13, Seymour Street. Portman Square. W. Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke, 15, Park Street, Grosv(:'nor Square, W. Duncan Macdonald, Ksq., Weybank Lodge, Guildford, Surrey, and Belgrave Mansions, Grosvenor Gardens. George Hanbury Field, Esq., 67, Eccleston Square. Alrx. Robertson, Esq.,20, Grafton Street, Berkeley Square, W., and the College, Elgin, N.B. The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to parties transacting Banking business with it in London. Customers keeping accounts with the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted free of charge. Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual terms of London Banks. Deposits at interest received in London of sums of lOl. and upwards, for which receipts are granted, called " Deposit Receipts ;" and interest allowed according to the value of money from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, &c., received for customers. Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent and -elsewhere. The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank's Branches. By order of the Directors, E. ATKINSON, ^ Joint WM. HOr/r, j General Managers. 52 MURRAY'S HANMOQK ADVERTISER. Mjy, PENZANCE, CORNWALL. MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, ESPLANADE, PENZANGE, CORNWALL, Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a FAMILY HOTEL &JUPEE|OR LOriGIN&-HOUSE. NO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to West Cora wall. All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that * Beauteous gem set in the silver sea,' St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residency. Suites of apartments for families of distinction. Choice Wjnes and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. E. LAVIN", Proprtetor. ANTWER p. HOTEL DU GEAKD LABOUREUR, PLACE DE )(p|t, 26. This old-established and highly-recommended Hptel, wbjcji has been considerably enlarged, is situated iri the finest and healthiest square of the city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and the excellency of the f^ble-d'Hotp and Wine^, ^d4e4 t-^ *^^ attention and civility phown to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ENGLISH AND FEENCH NEWSPAPEES. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53 VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. (Formerly REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.) BOBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. THE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension, English spoken by all the Servantsi CONSTANTINOPLE. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. THIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRIVALLED BOSPHOKUS, is replete with every comfort and convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tomists. A Select Table-d'Hote. In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached from all parts of Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA an d the EAST, it is requested that Families desirous oF securing Rooms telegraph or write in anticipation. Every attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS EOR ALL LANGUAGES. 27(6 Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers* 54 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RUSSIA. HOTEL BILLO, MOSCOW, GREAT LUBIANKA STREET. Peoprietoe, Mr. EDWAED BILLO. A LEEADY advantageously known for these past 20 Years, -* »- and of late considerably Enlarged, and newly Furnished with all the requirements of modern times, this FIRST-GLASS FAMILY HOTEL, entirely Private, has merited, under the careful attention of the Proprietor, for its comfort, cleanliness, and order, the unquestionable patronage of the most distinguished Travellers. This Hotel is situated in the highest and healthiest part, the very centre of Moscow, with the front to the sunside, and most convenient for visitors on pleasure or business, being near the Imperial Theatre and Opera House, the Kreml, and the Boulevards, and also close to the City, the Exchange, the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the business places in general. Single Rooms and Apartments, excellent Table d'Hote Dinner at 5| j).m., separate dinners, choice wines. Prices moderate. Ladies' Room, Reading and Smoking Room, English Newspapers, viz. : ' The Times,' * The Graphic,' and ' Punch ;' French and German News- papers. Every sort of information about the town, its environs, trade, and the inland communications. Own Letter-box. Interpreters and Guides. Bank Notes and Bills of Circular Letters changed. Cold, Warm, Shower Baths, Sponge Tubs. Equipages and Droshkies at the door. No personal trouble whatever with the Passports, which are strictly required by the police office. Own Carriage and attendance at the Peters- burg Railway Station to receive the Travellers and their Luggage. It is advisable to secure Rooms beforehand, especially during the time of the Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in January and February). CAUTION.— Travellers are cautioned not to confound the HOTEL BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and to take care not to allow themselves to be led away by the Cabmen or Iswosclitschiks and other interested persons, especially at St. Petersburg, but to insist on being conducted to the HOTEL BILLO, Great Lubianka ; in Russian, Gostinnitza Billo, JBahhvi Luhianlca, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 65 TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. DORRELL & SON'S 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. British Subjects visit- irii; the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass- ports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass- ports forwarded through the post. A 'Passport Prospectus,' containing every particular in de- Fee, Obtaining THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. Englisli and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description. Travelling Inkstands, and a va- riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. CANTON DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). CK)^^ily |E?^perJi and lPeriocl|pa|$«. •Terraces, with Splendid "View overlooking the Park. ARBANGEMENT^ MADE FOB THE WINTi:^. Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the confidence placed in hina, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and civil attendance, combined with moderate charges. 62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May. ^FFEA^I^. 'THE COMMITTEE of the CHUECH of ENGLAND -*- EDUCATION SOCIETY earnestly appeal for increased funds to enable them to continue the Society's operations. Many of our Schools for the Poor are either absolutely dependent upon the Society's grants, or would be crippled in their work without such aid. The same may be said of many Pupil Teachers who have been enabled to complete their course of training. The Society aUo supplies SCHOOLS with all kinds of Registers and Stationery at reduced prices. The Society's means are far from adequate to the exigencies of the present time, which urgently demand every possible effort to secure for an increasing population a sound Protestant Education. F. MAUDE, R.N., Chairman, REGINALD GUNNERY, Hon. Cler. Sec. 11, Adam Street, Adelphi, W.C. ST. PETERSBURG. HOTEL D'ANGLETEEKE, ST. ISAAC'S SQUARE, {Gostinitza Angleterre, Issakofski Sabor) H. SGHMITZ, Proprietor. THIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in the centre of the City, focing the St. Isaac's Church, near the Post-office, the Royal Palaces and Public Buildings, affords large suites of well-furnished Apartments for Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen. A large Dining-room where Dinners are served from Three till Seven o'Clock, from one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-room. The * Times,* and other English, French, and German Newspapers. HOT AND COLD BATHS, TUBS, AND SITTING BATHS. Guides and Servants speaking English. Omnibuses at the Stations, and Steamboats near Landing-places from Stockholm and England. THE queen's messengers FREQUENT TUTS HOTEL. JS'.B. — Misses Benson i' Hotel no longer exists. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63 LUCERNE. EMLISOHEE HOP.— HOTEL d'ANGLETEEEE. Proprietor— JEAN KEBEK. THIS First-rate Establishment, very well recommended by the best class of Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' Landing-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta- tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake, with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms, where are French and English news- papers. Charge for Rooms per diem, Ifr. 50c. to 3fr. Table d'Hote, at 1 ... 3fr. „ 430 . . 4fr. „ ,^ 730 . . 3fr. The ' Times,' ' Galignani' * I'lndeperi' dance,' the ' Buvd,' and other German, French, and American papers are taken for the Reading Room. A PRACTICAL INTRODUCTION TO THK NORWEGIAN LANGUAGE, CONSISTING OF GRAMMAR AND EXERCISES FOR THE USE OF ENGLISH TRAVELLERS IN NORWAY. BY J. y. SARGENT, M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. RIVINGTONS. ROTTERDAM. H. A. KRAMERS, Zmporter of Forelgrn Books. Mr. Murray's • Handbooks for Travellers, Bradshaw's Monthly Railway Guides, Bae- deker's * Reischandbiicher,' and HENr>- scHEL's ' Telegraph,* always in Stock. English, French, and German Books im- ported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 47, GELBEB3CHE KADE. NOTICE. LETTS, SON, ^ CO. (LIMITED), 8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.G., SUPPPLY PASSPORTS Within 24 Hours' Notice, to any part of the Kingdom, on receipt of the necessary Banker's Recommendation. They have also a very complete Set of MAPS by Foreign Publishers and Governments, AND GUIDE BOOKS, IN to all parts of the Tourist World. CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION, LETTS, SON,& CO. (LIMITED). Agents for the Sale of the ORDNANCE MAPS OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. 64 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, 1871 ESTABLISHED lSSf>. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPSt, AND LEE & CARTER, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON (TTearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). KNAPSACKS STIFF OR LIMP. POETMANTEAUX OF ALL PATTERNS. BAGS OF ALL KINDS. Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this EstahlisJiment hefore 'inahing purcJuxses for their journey. AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM:- Guide Books (in pocket bindings). Maps and Plans of all Parts. Foreign Dictionaries. Dialogues and Grammars. Polyglott Washing Books. Journals and Diaries. Pocket Books and Note Cases. Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. Money Belts and Bags. Writing Cases and Blotters. Ink Stands and Light Boxes. Foreign Stationery. Travelling Chess Boards, &c. Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. Barometers & Thermometers. Field Glasses & Compasses. Eye Preservers and Spectacles. Eailway Rugs and Straps. Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. Luggage Straps and Labels. Travelling Lamps. Camp Candlesticks. Flasks and Drinking Cups. Sandwich Cases. Luncheon Baskets. Dressii^g Cases & Housewives Soap and Brush Boxes. Sponge and Sponge Bags. Baths and Air Cushions. Waterproofs & Foot Warmers. Camp Stools and Leg Bests. Portable Closet Seats. Etnas for boiling water. Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. Glycerine and Insect Powder. Door Fasteners, &c., &c., &c. fyondou : Printed by WrLLTAM Crx)\TES and Son?, Stamford Street and Charing Cross . MUERAY'S HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRAE 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. RENEWALS ONLY^TEL. NO. 642-3405 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. RgC'D LP OC^ ^'G9-5PM 'ft rLTA. 'Js. By B^ I LEO LD21A-60m-6,'69 (J9096sl0)476-A-32 General Library University of California Berkeley LURRAY'S Eig^GLISH HANDBOOliS. LONDON AS IT IS. Map and Plans. 16mo. 3*. ed. SASTERN COUNTIES — Essex, Cambridge, Suffolk, a^d Iiuiifo! v Map. Post 8vo. Us. LENT AND SUSSEX — Canterbury, Dover, Ramsgate, Eochestp Chatham, liRioHTON, Chichester, Worthing, Hastings, Lewes, Arunl- Map. PoBtSro. 10?. fURREY AND HANTS — Kingston, Croydon, Reigate, Guildfov - DORKIKG, BOXHILL, WINCHESTER, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTSMOUTH, AND TH» Is .: OF Wight. Map. Post Svo. 10«. t^ Berks, bucks, and OXON— AVindsor, Eton, Reading, Aylesi^'ry Henlet, Oxford, and the Thames. Map. Post Svo. riLTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET— Salisbury, Chippenham, ^p,v . MOUTH, Sherborne, Wells, Bath, Bristol, Taunton, &c. Map.' Post Svo. : '^ ETON AND CORNWALL— Exeter, Ilfracombe, Linton, Sidmo^"; i^. Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plymouth, Devonport, Torquay, Launceston, ^k>. L ZANCE, Falmouth, The Lizakd, Land's End, (fee. M^p. Post Svo. 10«. ' Gloucester, Hereford, and worcest^ ^irencester, Chel- tenham, Stroud, Tewkesburv, Leominster, I?/ Dudley, Bromsgrove, Evksjham. Map. Fo/ [)ERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND ST. Chatsworth, The Peak, Buxton, Ha WELL, Mansfield, Retford, Burton^ HAMPTON, Lichfield, Wai.sall, T. SHROPSHIRE, CHESHIRE, and Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chesi'^^ head, Warrington, Btry, Manx Bolton, Blackburn, Wioan, I jjLackpool, &.C. Map. rORKSHIRE— DoNCASTER, Harrogate, Ripon, Lei Sheffield. Maiyaid )URHAM AND W HU^ Auckland, St' MOUTH, Alt frESTMORL, Amblri Cocj ERN, KiDDBUMIN^ER, TLOCK, BAKEWiLL, .e, Ashborne, South- MOWBRAY, W0l4lF.EK- ?vo. 7*. Gd. ; 3WSBURY, LUDI.OV Stockport, Birkt: urnley, CrjrHERo rCASTER, S0UTHpC^^ IBOROUGHjWhITI T IFAX, HuDDERSF^LC ARLINGTON, BlS^QP ^DS, Berwick, Tf|CE- FURNESS Ab^J^, Jrasmere, CarlMe, *vas. Zs. 6d. ., ^voN, Beaumaris, Snow- BTD THE Wyb. Maps. 2 rpU. iC0TjL(X3LX>i J^. jcjtJi-viJUixwtt,- mjsLKuaw, KeLSO, GLASGOW, ''-l^irMFRIEs Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Invkrarv, Loch Lomond, L^cx Katrine and Trosachs, Caledonian Canal, Invfrness, Perth, DuNDiJii, Aberdekn, Bp.aemar, Skyk., Caithness, Ross, and Sutherland. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. Us. IKELAND. — Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galway, Wexford, Co|tK, , LiMKRiCK, Waterford, Killarney, Munster. Maps. Post Svo. l'2s. • CATHEDBALS OF ENGLAND. v OUTHERN' CATHEDRALS— Winchester, Salisbury, Exeter, We^, Rochester, Canterbury, and Chichester. Illustrations. 2 vols, crown Svo/'^* lASTERN CATHEDRALS— Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, Lincoln. Illustrations. Crown Svo. ISs. ; WESTERN CATHEDRALS— Bristol, Gloucester, Hereford, Worcest and Lichfield, illustrations, ; Crown Svo. 16j». } lORTHERN cathedrals-York, IUpon, Durham, Carlisle, ChestI AND Manchester. Illustrations. 2 vols. 21^. '■* i kJime, 1S7L