LA PLATA COUNTRIES OF SOUTH ^|\.MERICA. i\ . J. M. CLEMENS. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. 1886. f5.80S Copyright, 1886, by E. J. M. CLEMENS. 4 t *- c »^ t 4 € i t C c « « < * * t ( 4ISrFPE0TYFERSJNDPRINTERSl> \ TO THE AMERICAN PEOPLE, WITH THE HOPE THAT IT MAY IN SOME MEASURE CONTRIBUTE TO A BETTER ACQUAINTANCE ^ ' WITH THE NATIONS OF LA PLATA, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. Ml26i88 CONTENTS. PART I. A JOURNEY AND A GLANCE AT URUGUAY. Chapter Pagb I. — A Journey ii II. — Scenes in Montevideo 31 III. — Popular Amusements 51 IV. — Burial Customs 61 V. — Business Conveniences " 65 VI. — The Republic of Uruguay 72 VII. — Epitome of Uruguayan History 86 PART II. THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC AND BOLIVIAN LA PLATA. VIII. — The Argentine Capital 95 IX. — The Argentine Republic 115 X. — The Province of Buenos Ayres 124 XI. — The Entrepot of the Interior 144 XII. — Amusements and Incidents 174 XIII. — Railroads and Colonization 197 I* 5 6 CONTENTS. Chapter Page XIV. — The Argentine Mesopotamia 220 XV. — The Cuyo District 238 XVI. — The Central Provinces 249 XVII. — The Highland Provinces 264 XVIII. — The National Territories 275 XIX. — The Army and Navy 285 XX. — Educational Facilities 291 XXI. — Currency and Commerce 307 XXII. — Epitome of Argentine History 332 XXIII. — Bolivian La Plata 337 PART III. HISTORICAL RETROSPECT. XXIV. — Discovery and Colonization 345 XXV. — Diverse Inhabitants 360 XXVI. — War of Independence 368 XXVII. — Period of Anarchy 373 XXVIII. — Ancient Religions 389 XXIX. — Influence of the Jesuits 405 PART IV. PARAGUAY. XXX. — Independence of Paraguay 423 XXXI. — Destruction of Paraguay 437 CONTENTS. 7 Page Chapter XXXII.— Reconstruction of Paraguay 455 XXXIII.— Epitome of Paraguayan History 487 PART V. BRAZILIAN LA PLATA. XXXIV.— Brazilian La Plata 493 PART I. A JOURNEY AND A GLANCE AT URUGUAY. CHAPTER I. A JOURNEY. When, in the beginning of the year 1880, I was preparing to go to the Argentine Republic, I was surprised to find how little I knew of that country, and how little with regard to the South American nations is available to the general reader. I was even more astonished on learning that to reach my proposed destination, a journey longer than to India lay before me ; that there were only four routes by which the valley of the Rio de la Plata — the south- ern twin of the Mississippi Valley — could be reached from the United States. The first of these, by steamer from some Atlantic port of the United States to Europe, and thence to Montevideo. The second, from San Francisco down the west coast to Valparaiso ; thence around Cape Horn to Monte- video and Buenos Ayres. (By this route the traveller gets one degree more of latitude than if he should start from the equator and land at the North Pole, and for good count, gets 2i}4° over again. To avoid the repetition, he may leave the II 12 .\ LA' PLATA CO UNTRIES steamer at Valparaiso and cross the Andes on mule-back, — in which case a minimum of personal property is an item worthy of consideration.) The third is from New York to Valparaiso by the way of Panama, and from Valparaiso either around Cape Horn or across the Andes. The fourth, by sailing vessel from an Atlantic port of the United States, direct to the La Plata. The most regular and commodious of these sail from Portland, with cargoes of lumber. By sailing-vessel route, the distance between the United States and the mouth of the Rio de la Plata is between seven thousand and eight thousand miles. The shortest route by steamer is more than ten thousand miles. By neither is the journey likely to be accomplished in less than two months, and by the former it may be indefinitely protracted. I decided to go by England, as the cheapest and most expeditious way of reaching the desired point, and registered for Liverpool on " the safest ship of the safest line that ever ploughed the sea." There could be no pleasanter spring morning than that on which we steamed down the East River and out into the broad Atlantic. Never was sky more unconscious of a frown, or treacherous sea more unsuggestive of a billow. But never were OF SOUTH AMERICA. 13 pleasant auguries more ruthlessly set at naught. On the second day rough weather set in, and each succeeding to-morrow the waves grew more boister- ous, each night the demons of the sea held more hideous revelry. Before we hailed the Irish coast one life-boat had been carried away, and, as the sequel proved, two others had been hopelessly disabled. Then the goblins of the deep retired to their caves, and the human hearts they had buffeted were filled with thanksgiving. At Queenstown the government inspector came on board, laughed at our dilapidated appearance, took a glass of grog, and climbed down the rope- ladder into his boat. Letters were sent on shore. The pilot came on board, and again we were moving on in high spirits. With night, a thick fog settled down on St. George's Channel, and the ship crept slowly on, through the first and second watches, feeling for the clear water. Midnight ! One ; two ; half-past, and " all is well !" Close upon the stroke of three ; but the bell for three was never rung. An instant of quickened speed, — a sudden reversing of motion, — a raising of the ship ; then an ominous hush ! I waited the possible sixtieth part of an interminable 14 LA PLATA COUNTRLES second, and then called " What is the matter ?" No answer came from the watchman who had kept his nightly beat in the passage, so I left my berth to investigate. As I reached the cabin, the Purser came rushing down. " On deck, quick ! Tell them all not to wait for anything ! Get on deck as quick as possible ! We are wrecked !" On deck was pitchy blackness, rendered more intense by the glare of tar lights and the lurid flash of the distress rockets, and more hideous by the boom of the signal gun. All but two of the forty- two firemen had deserted their post and were surg- ing up and down the deck panic-stricken. The passengers were ordered forward, and in trying to obey were beaten back by this grimy living wave. Then, across ship, only again and again to be thrust aside. Owing to the careening of the ship and the twisting of its iron bars, the first life-boat attempted could not be lowered. Others were at length let down and the work of filling them was begun. The ladies went first. Around the waist of each a rope was tied ; then she clambered over the deck-guard, clung to a rope-ladder, swung over the dark abyss, and was caught by a sailor, who deposited her at his feet in the life-boat. " The children next," called the Purser, after the first lady OF SOUTH AMERICA. 1 5 had been lowered. But two little girls clung together, saying firmly, " No, no, we will not go till mamma does. Because the other time they put us in a boat and she did not come !" It was the second time the " little family" had been wrecked within a month in trying to get back from America to their English home. Those let down last after- wards described it as dreadful to stand on deck and watch the slow sinking of their companions into the gloomy depths, lit up only by flashes of the tar light. Those first lowered described the sensation as agonizing, as they sat in that gloom, almost holding their pulse-beats with suspense, and saw one after another swinging over them. Under such circumstances it would be hard to say which is more heroic, or shows the greater self-abnegation, she who waits till the last, or she who willingly goes first. While the ladies were being thus assisted, the gentlemen passengers were clambering down rope- ladders to the boats assigned them. When I stepped into the life-boat, I found myself nearly knee-deep in water. Then began a great outcry. " Another boat, ho ! another boat ! This one is sinking. Quick, another boat!" As speedily as possible another boat was brought around, and those who could not help themselves were picked up r»i-'' 1 6 LA PLATA COUNTRIES in strong arms and tossed over into it. All the little belongings that had been clung to thus far, and the blankets thrown down for our protection, were lost in the transfer. This second boat was rapidly filling. Again came the frantic order from the upper deck, "For God's sake push off!" But whither should we go ? The boats spun around and around, trying to go, no one knew whither. At length one struck off towards the dim outline of the rocky coast, and after long search found a small cove into which it entered. By wading through the surf nearly breast deep and clambering up a steep bluff, the men found human habitations, but were not suffered to enter, and shivering with the cold, seeing no better refuge, they waded back to their boat. Through all the weary hours, from three o'clock till day, no human being came out on that thickly-settled coast, in answer to the distress signals, to offer help or to show one glimmering ray of human sympathy. The boat to which I had been consigned, having both ladies and gentlemen, struck off towards a light in the distance. In the confusion, and under cover of the darkness, eleven firemen had slipped down the side of the wreck, making twenty-nine persons in a boat designed at its best estate to carry OF SOUTH AMERICA. ly only fifteen. Now it stood sorely in need of calk- ing. This being out of the question, bailing alone remained. The firemen refused to assist in bailing or to help at the oars. Only three sailors had fallen to our lot, and the prospect was not flattering. Signs of mutiny were rife. Harsh words were bandied between the infuriated men and the power- less officer in charge. " I will report you when we get to shore," said the officer to the burly ring- leader seated in the bow. *' Humph ! You're not at shore yet !" was the threatening retort in a demoniac tone. Then another sound broke on the ear. At first, a soft, broken sound, but growing stronger as one tremulous voice after another joined in the refrain — " Nearer, my God, to thee," " Jesus, lover of my soul," " Rock of ages." The fog had turned to rain, and was pouring down on us. The water lacked only a few inches of filling the boat, and the revolv- ing light in the dim distance seemed to grow no nearer. There appeared no human probability that the boat could reach the shore. Every passenger fully realized the situation, but no one spoke of danger. Every one was in the most uncomfortable position, but no one spoke of discomfort. During all those dreary hours not a groan was uttered. b 2* 1 8 LA PLATA COUNTRIES As the singing continued, creeping along in the darkness that seemed as though it never would grow light, the spirit of mutiny died away, the men began to bail with a will, and volunteered their help at the oars. Finally, when daylight struggled through the clouds, and " Pull for the shore" sounded cheerfully over the water, the seamen joined in the song, and when that was ended, suggested ** America," a com- pliment that was responded to by as hearty a follow- ing of "God save the Queen;" and when, after six hours of rowing, we drew near to the Holyhead pier, " Praise God from whom all blessings flow" floated out on the morning air with as deep thanks- giving as the words have ever voiced since Luther's grand anthem sounded through Germany. The Holyhead Breakwater is one of the boasts of British engineering. The Holyhead Light-house is one of her marine wonders. The Holyhead Harbor is the best on the Welsh coast, and the town the commercial emporium of the principality. As our boat neared the pier, the keeper of the light-house stood on it, surveying us without the formality of an eye-glass. " Where is the best place to land the ladies ?" called out the officer. " Steps," was the laconic reply. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 1 9 "They are ill and faint. Can we land them anywhere near a hotel ?" " Don't know." "Are there steps farther up?" " Yes." *' Is the tide so we can get to them ?" " You can tell by trying;" still without taking his hands from his pockets, or showing the least sensi- bility. As the tide was ebbing, it was thought best not to try to reach the upper steps, but stop there, cold and stiff as all were from their long sitting in cramped positions. Frowzy women and dirty children stared at our little procession dragging itself forlornly along in search of shelter, until the Marine Hotel hid it from view. Judging by the ample bar and empty larder, strong drink is the " staff of life" in Wales, and also its crutches. The firemen availed themselves of " fire-water," while the passengers pleaded for fires, and three or four hours later the replenished larder furnished an agreeable episode. The tug " Sea King" picked up our scattered companies and took us on to Liverpool with a hearty good-will to make us as comfortable as possible. A tin pail constantly boiling on the little cabin stove brewed cocoa for our refreshment, which 20 ^A PLATA COUNTRIES was served from mouth to mouth in the solitary tin- cup and a tea-cup that bounded the possibility of ele- gance, and the cake thoughtfully brought from the steward's store was an unquestioned bond of equality. Late in the night a grotesque company — drunken firemen, forlorn seamen, exasperated officers, hurry- ing police, bewildered revenue collectors, and drag- gled, half-clad travellers — filed through the Liver- pool custom-house. One by one the figures disappear, and clattering cabs rumble away from the floating docks, THE JOURNEY CONTINUED — LEAVES FROM MY DIARY. yune 15, 1880. — Last night left London by ten P.M. train for Liverpool, in the early twilight, and at ten this morning found myself once more " with only a plank between me and eternity." The pur- gatorial lava that soughs and surges through the caldron that the Greeks called a stomach, as we roll over the Bay of Biscay swells, makes thoughts of time less tolerable. 20th, 8 P.M. — Passing the Madeira Islands, that are faintly outlined against the horizon in an em- bankment of feathery clouds, which mount to the zenith and are piled about the moon in roseate OF SOUTH AMERICA. 21 heaps. Within the week the day has shortened itself an hour at each end. At nine o'clock the bright evening tints are fading. 22d. — The morning sky was threatening, but the sun broke through the clouds and scattered the calm sea with a million golden points of dancing, sparkling light that involuntarily suggested the simile, that grand poem of the ethereal sea : ** The myriad stars the gold dust are Of thy divine abode." There is now no twilight. The full moon takes the place of the setting sun. But for the moon we would be in midnight darkness within fifteen minutes after sunset. 2}^d. — Gray sky, gray sea, not a ship in sight, not a fish, not a gull, — nothing ! 24//;. — Same as yesterday. 2^th. — Repetition of the 23d. Crossed the Tropic of Cancer. 26th. — Flying-fish killed by alighting on the deck, and served for dinner. Almost dark at seven p.m. 2'jth. — Cast anchor before St. Vincent, the prin- cipal settlement of the Cape Verde Islands, on the island of the same name. Twenty vessels were at anchor in the bay when we arrived, one bearing the 22 LA PLATA COUNTRIES stars and stripes. This is a pretty sheet of water, well sheltered from winds by the surrounding islands that present a jagged outline to the coast. At the entrance, Bird Rock lifts its conical head to a con- siderable altitude and varies its outline at every movement of our floating castle. Separated from St. Vincent only by a narrow channel, the fertile island of San Antonio stretches along one side of the bay. Canoes laden with pineapples and bananas put out from it and hasten toward us in quest of purchasers. As far as the eye can reach, St. Vin- cent is a mere ridge of yellow, rocky hills with scarce a sign of vegetation. The town of about three thousand inhabitants hugs the shore in an opening of these yellow hills. The only occu- pation is furnished by vessels that put in here for coal. Although this group of islands is one of the few outlying remnants of the ** Four Kingdoms" that Portugal once boasted, and the mass of the inhabitants are the descendants of the Portuguese and conquered natives with whom they amalga- mated, and although all business transactions must conform to the cumbrous tedium of Portuguese methods, the bulk of trade is in the hands of the British. The coal is brought from British mines OF SOUTH AMERICA. 23 in British vessels, and stored here for British gains. But the handling is by Portuguese, with Portuguese despatch. On an average it requires twenty-four hours* labor of fifty men to discharge one hundred and fifty tons in the hold of a ship, which lies half a mile from shore, or firther. The coal, filled in gunny-sacks, — about thirteen sacks to the ton, — is towed out to it in tub-like iron-clad barges. Two or three sacks at a time are hooked to the ship's crane and drawn up by the " nigger engine." The attendant St. Vincentese laborers catch them and empty them by hand into the hold. While cubic feet of coal accumulate below, cubic yards of coal-dust accumulate on deck, until it is hard to distinguish Portuguese from Englishmen, whites from blacks. The last three barges were towed out together and had been emptied, when, through the dense clouds of dust, we were treated to a rare bit of impromptu acting — " true to the life :" the only action with the semblance of life in any way con- nected with the business that had for two and a half days " dragged its slow length along." By some oversight the steam-tug started towards shore with the three barges in tow, and straightened the cable connecting them, when it was discovered that 24 LA PLATA COUNTRIES the last one was still tied to the ship. Stopped by the cable's strength, the occupants of the three barges rushed back and forth, wildly gesticulating, their loose cotton garments fluttering in the wind, while stray bits of coal flew from barge to barge and struck the water in hopeless ineffectiveness. The utter unintelligibility of the torrent of sound that poured from all mouths at once, accompanied by indescribable grimaces and contortions, left a vague wonder whether a scene from the " Inferno" were being enacted, or "the missing link" found. At last the tug came back. Two men from it ran through the barges, cut the offending rope with a hatchet, and as hastily retreated to seemingly safer quarters than within arm's length of their excited companions. The babble of excited altercation floated back to us as our own engine began to add its volume of smoke to the overhanging darkness, and our prow was once more turned toward the Southern sea. The San Antonio divers furnished the passengers with diversion while waiting for the coaling. Nude boys came in skiff'-loads, and a short distance from the ship .leaped into the sea regardless of the sharks, with which they disputed the watery element. Some swam all the way from their islands to join in the OF SOUTH AMERICA. 25 "variety performance," which is extremely ludicrous. The audience on deck pay for the show by bits of money thrown into the water. When a penny is thrown, down the divers swoop after it, like a flock of gulls after a crumb. The successful competitor thrusts the coin into his mouth (the only pocket his wardrobe affords), and, coming quickly to the surface, motions to throw him another. Nor do these enterprising youths hesitate to suggest to their audience that silver is more easily seen in the water than copper. One coin was so nearly the prize of each of two contestants, that an altercation ensued, in which he who had failed seemed to accuse the winner of unfairness, and as a final argument in the case, seized him by the throat and choked him until the coin dropped from his mouth. But before he could take advantage of the stratagem, another little fellow darted under them, secured the prize, and swallowed it. Spoiler and spoiled showed an equal inclination to choke the interloper, but when his opened mouth showed the uselessness of further action, all faces and all hands were again directed toward the deck for a new bait. Like all well-organized troupes, when the audience grew thin, the company moved on. 2StJL. — Latitude 13° north, dark at seven p.m. B 3 26 J^A PLATA COUNTRIES 2gth. — Excessively hot. Reached the rain-belt at four P.M. ;^oth. — Bade good-by to the North star and hailed the Southern cross. jfiily ist. — Dead calm. " If a whale would only spout !" " or a Portuguese man-of-war come to the surface !" " anything to break this dreadful mon- otony !" Such is the substance of conversation. A sail-ship on the horizon. The captain says it may lie there two months without catching air enough to fill its sails. 2d. — Sighted St. Paul's Rocks, latitude 55' 45'' north, longitude 29° 2\' west from Greenwich. Immense volcanic rocks incrusted v.'ith white cal- careous matter, five hundred miles from the nearest point of any continent and three hundred miles from the nearest island. They would be undesirable neighbors in a storm. — Two gulls. — The sail of a northern-bound vessel. — Cool breeze. — Slight swell. Five P.M. — On the equator — Neptune declines to make us the time-honored visit. ^d. — Crossed the western ocean current on its way from the Cape of Good Hope to the Gulf of Mexico, to be transformed into the Gulf Stream. There is a noticeable difference in the atmosphere since we left the sun loitering about the Tropic of Cancer. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 27 6th. — For three days have been rolled and bumped and thumped across the tropics until my body is a mass of bruises inflicted by the wall of my state-room and the plank that holds me into my berth. Such attitudinizing does not increase one's feeling of self-complacency. gtJi. — Dead calm for two days, but a storm is prophesied. I2tli. — The prophecy has been fulfilled. Thurs- day noon we were again rolling. All night and the next day and the next huge waves broke over the ship's sides and bellowed under the cross-beams. Anon, a counter wave got under the stern, tossed it in air, and hissed along the keel. Then a head- wind would snatch the main-mast and scream through the rigging, " Have more dignity than to make fishing-tackle of yourselves." Later. — The storm has lulled, and a i^w sallow mortals emerge from their rooms in quest of a corner of dry deck. But the " seas" that are "shipped" every few minutes drive them in again. Have made two hundred and twenty-four miles in twenty-four hours. Sunset at five p.m. /////. — Dense fog. Got ready for the life-boats. Supposed to be fifteen miles from the Ikazilian Coast Reef. 28 LA PLATA COUNTRIES 15th. — Last night we had the most terrific thunder-storm I have ever known. As I clung to the side of my berth, I caught glimpses through the port of a sea ablaze with phosphorus. Pitch blackness everywhere, save the glare of the light- ning and the gleam of the waves. Ten A.M. — The storm continues. A pilot has been taken on board. This is rarely done by steamers in this part of the ocean. Pilot-boats frequent these waters for the accommodation of sailing vessels, but one is rarely hailed by any other craft. However, in this continued altercation of fogs and furies, our captain has grown haggard. It is a relief to him to have a fresh eye with him on the bridge, especially as it is now ascertained that our ship has been driven thirty miles from its course. One P.M. — Signs of clearing. — Hope revives. — Pass a shoal of fur seals. Four P.M. — Pampero^ coming up. Five P.M. — Have been compelled to anchor ten miles from Montevideo Bay. The waves lash over us at a rate that leaves all that has gone before as child's play in comparison. ■* The pampero is a severe windstorm from the southwest. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 20 1 6th. — The officers agree in assuring us that there is one blessing about a pauipcro, it never lasts long. The statement is true of the one we have experi- enced, as compared with " The lengthened sweetness long drawn out' of the ocean swells that have preceded it. The distinction is that the pampero is a land breeze that affects only the river. And it now transpires that we have sailed a hundred miles on the Rio de la Plata, without my suspecting that we had left the ocean. At nine o'clock this morning we cast anchor in Montevideo Bay, six miles from the Queen City of the South Temperate Zone, with as clear a sky arching over us, and beneath us as calm a blue, tinged with emerald, as gave me their benediction at the beginning of the ten thousand seven hundred miles of sailing, now happily at an end. The city looks beautiful in the distance, stretched in a semicircle around the curves of the bay, flanked at one extreme by the little mountain that gave it its name, and at the other by a strip of white sandy beach. As its towers gleam before us in the morn- ing sun, it is hard to realize that few decades have passed during its whole history without its walls «0 LA PLATA COUNTRIES being battered by besieging armies, and its streets drenched with the blood of contending factions. Not a sanguinary hint, not a hostile suggestion is now apparent, and we welcome the approach of the bote de despensero by which we are to reach the shore. It has a seating capacity for from twenty to thirty persons, and storage for a ton or two of freight. In the centre is a mast from which a square sail is rigged. The crew consists of two semi-naturalized Genoese, one of whom steers and the other takes care of the sail. As it veers from side to side, and its base pole strikes here a shoulder and there a head, we could almost wish he would give a little attention to the passengers. But the wish is hardly formed when a volley of unintelligi- ble apologies shows that the thought does him injustice. And before the apologies are ended, an- other blow in another quarter calls them all out again. I attempt a conversation, which, between their broken Italian and my broken Spanish, bids fair to yield me some convenient bits of information, until we begin to get the threads of each other's discourse only to find that we are talking upon different subjects. After repeated efforts of this kind, always with the same result, the bote draws up to the slippery steps of the pier, from which OF SOUTH AMERICA. 3 1 the tide is receding, having made the six miles in an hour and twenty minutes. The pier extends from the point of the little peninsula that, until within a quarter of a century, contained the entire city. A short walk brings us to the customs-house, whose open door now courts our entrance. It is a two-story stuccoed building, than which many inferior ones may be found in cities of the United States not without considerable commercial pre- tensions. CHAPTER II. SCENES IN MONTEVIDEO. Patience is a cardinal virtue. There may be better places for acquiring it, but there can be none better for practising it than the customs-house whose portals so invitingly beckoned us. But the moment the traveller has received the polite intima- tion from the customs officer that the freedom of the city is his, half a dozen chayicaderos are ready to pounce upon their prey. The chancadcro is the compeer of the Jehu that haunts the suburbs of railway stations in the United States. But he 32 LA PLATA COUNTRIES flourishes no whip in the face of his victim, neither points to yellow omnibus nor tattered " hack" and vociferates " Kurrij ! Kurrij !" His humble aspira- tion is to carry hand baggage, a self-service which, in the glamour of this land of independence, liberty, and equality, to a gentleman or lady would be an un-to-be-thought-of degradation. Custom exoner- ates the chancadero from that superfluity of attire that insists upon adding the burden of a cockade to the honor of a whip. His feet, guiltless of stock- ings, are shod in alpergatas^ the Spanish-American canvas shoe with braided straw soles, which is held to the foot with a strio of blue or red cotton cloth, wound around the ankle and crossed over the instep. His short, loose cotton trousers are girt about his waist with a cotton string or leather thong, over which in many folds is wound a long, broad girdle, that serves a variety of purposes according to the demands of his carrying trade. His open shirt- collar thrown back exposes his tawny chest, and a bright cotton handkerchief loosely knotted around his neck serves him for the many purposes for which baskets are elsewhere used. At the market, he drops the beefsteak and onions for his patron's breakfast into this handkerchief, just as naturally as he and his companions slip their loosened girdles OF SOUTH AMERICA. 33 under his piano-forte and around their necks and march off with it on moving day. A canvas cap, a colored turban, or a slouch hat completes his cos- tume. A stranger may be deceived by his protesta- tion that he will carry any hand baggage for a certain amount and be therewith content, but a resident, never. If the few pounds chance to be in several packages, and, with all the motions of a jumping-jack thrice repeated, he asserts his ability to carry them on one arm, there is no cause for surprise if he distributes them among his compan- ions, and each demands for his part of the service the original amount stipulated for the whole. It is a legitimate mode of complimenting one on tb.e acknowledged superiority of his social position, and profiting thereby. If his demand be granted, his outstretched hand still waits for a napa^ for which he pleads volubly. But if his demand is not granted, his thanks for what he does get are ex- pressed as profusely as the most copious language will admit, and he goes off apparently as happy as if he had received the whole. Cabs made in England wait a beckoning finger, and when the signal is given a cJiancadero hastens to open the door, for which he expects a coin. He may then run along keeping pace with the carriage 34 LA PLATA COUNTRIES to the end of the ride, regardless of distance, ready again to open the door and receive another coin. The charge for a cab is one dollar per hour, chancadero not included. The first impression received in Montevideo is that no one is In a hurry. The shifting scenes in the Uruguayan capital are not fac-simlles of those enacted In New York. A baker passes on a mule that would be no credit to a freedman's plantation after the army worm, the chinch bug, and the grasshopper had been through his section. The panadero^ happily unconscious of such comparisons, trots composedly over the cobble- stones, carrying his loaves in two enormous cow- hide pannier baskets swung across his mule, above which he sits sldewise on an indescribable looking something that does duty for a saddle. Close at his heels is a milkman with his cans strung by the side of his steed in pouches made of strips of rawhide. Down a cross street comes another with chickens tied by the legs and dangling at the sides of his Rosinante. And there yet another, with hairy cow- hide baskets only less capacious than those of the baker, and half a dozen hens sitting on each. His stentorian voice Informs housekeepers two or three squares In advance that there are fresh eggs in the OF SOUTH AMERICA. 35 baskets. It is midwinter, but everywhere men are walking about leisurely selling' flowers, everywhere women promenade the sidewalks with lace thrown over their heads, tastefully fastened to the heavy braids of their jet-black hair, and carrying that indispensable part of a Spanish lady's wardrobe, a fan, which here serves all the purposes of a parasol, and on narrow sidewalks is much less in the way. Next to Rio de Janeiro, Montevideo is the finest city in the world south of the equator. Its site is all that could be asked for a great commercial em- porium as well as for the local habitat of a cultured and aesthetic humanity. It stands out boldly on a rocky peninsula that rises gradually as it recedes* from the shore and then declines more gradually to the bed of a little stream that empties into the bay about two miles above the point. Thus the entire site of the city has a natural surface drainage and the best possible facilities for the most perfect un- derground sewerage. Despite the imperfection of the latter, Montevideo is a clean and, consequently, a healthy city. The pelting rains that drench its paved streets and force all surface accretions into the sea, leave them with the appearance of having been cleansed with broom 9*r scrubbing-brush. The streets are all paved with cobble-stones and, gener- ^6 LA PLATA COUNTRIES ally, the sidewalks with broad flag-stones. In some parts these are also paved with cobble-stones, al- though, more usually, where flag-stones are not in use, tile or brick take their place. The old walled town of three centuries* growth was confined to the peninsula, which is only one mile long and a little more than half as broad. In it the streets are narrow and irregular, and the sidewalks almost dis- appear. This section is now densely packed with business houses, especially shipping offices and other buildings connected with marine interests, plentifully interspersed with drinking establishments. Until the treaty of 1859, by which Great Britain, Brazil, and the Argentine Republic guaranteed the independence of Uruguay, Montevideo felt the ne- cessity^ of a continual readiness to repel a bom- bardment, and the surrounding wall was sur- mounted by guns. With the unwonted tranquillity that followed that treaty, the guns fell into disuse, but the wall was not wholly removed until 1875, nor are the m^^irks of its whereabouts yet entirely obliterated. Whc^n the city outgrew those swad- dling bands, it ga/e breadth to its thoroughfares commensurate with the expanding thought of a people who had sprun<^ into national being. Calle Florida, which marks the end of the old and the OF SOUTH AMERICA. 37 beginning of the new city, is sixty feet wide, and the same hbcrality of territory extends to many others. Calle Diez-y-ocho-de-Julio (18th of July), or, as it would be called in the United States, " Independence Street," is one hundred feet wide and two miles long. It begins at Government square, — the plaza of the old town, — crosses Calle Florida at a right angle, and ends in another public plaza, of equal size. The first serves as a review ground for government troops. The last is gorgeous with beds of flowers and delightful with the shade of subtropical trees and shrubs, to the enjoyment of which smooth winding walks in- vite the pedestrian. Midway between these is yet another plaza, in the centre of which is the only public monument in the Republic of Uruguay, the Statue of Liberty, on a fluted column forty feet high. The whole length of the street is nicely pav^ed, and the broad sidewalks are flanked by double rows of paradise and palm trees. These, in their turn, are flanked by the most aristocratic business houses of the city, especially retail dry goods and jewellers' establishments. The people have not lost the relish for public pageants sedulously fostered by the Spanish set- tlers for three hundred }'ears in the New World, 4 38 LA PLATA COUNTRIES and for three times three hundred by their an^ cestors in the Old World. For these, no better accommodations could be asked than are afforded by Calle Diez-y-ocho. It is always beautifully lighted at night with gas, but on occasion of the grand fiestas no expense is spared to make it magnificent. Tasteful draperies hang from every balcony. Bright-colored camibrics are draped across the street from balustrade to balustrade of the flat roofs, and from tree to tree. From the branches of the trees also depend hundreds of bright paper lanterns and globes of light of every device. At intervals arches span the street with fanciful designs in gas jets. Through this glare of light in this fairy-like scene, the long proces- sion moves up one side of the street and down the other to the sound of music. The many events, religious and political, that are scrupu- lously celebrated leave few weeks without a proces- sion. That of the i8th of July, the anniversary of the Uruguayan declaration of independence, calls out the greatest enthusiasm and the most lavish expenditure. The common building material is a coarse, hard- baked brick, measuring thirteen inches in length, six in breadth, and two in thickness. It is so porous OF SOUTH AMERICA. 30 that the humidity of the atmosphere easily pene- trates the houses through the walls and any damp- ness of the ground as easily rises through the floors. The walls are plastered both outside and in, orna- mented with a profusion of stucco designs and plaster-of-Paris mouldings, and color-washed in every variety of shade from deep red to pale blue, canary color, and lavender. Formerly the political colors, red and white, were conspicuous. Now they are in a measure giving way to shades of brown and slate, more grateful to the eye. Window and door- facings, thresholds, and stair-steps are of Italian marble in all the best class of buildings. Dwellings are built around an inner court, called d. patio, ^ after the Moorish style of architecture. Fifteen French feet is the usual width of a room and height of a ceiling. Except the one or two looking on the street, the rooms are lighted only by glass in the upper half of the double door opening into the patio. No front yard or tiny grass-plot separates the city home from the sidewalk. The family is protected from possible depredations from that quarter by iron gratings over the windows, called rcjas. ]\Iany rcjas are of artistic design. Many are * Pronounced paf'-e-O. 40 LA PLATA COUNTRIES merely straight iron bars. In either case, much time is required to overcome the impression of a prison made by them and the continuous walls, there being no spaces or area walks between the buildings. An occasional new house without the rejas, or with them only on the lower part of the windows, indi- cates an increased sense of security among the people. On the principal streets a fair proportion of the houses are two stories high. In this case each story is a separate dwelling, and the patio of the upper house is the roof of a part of the lower one. A balcony overhanging the lower patio sup- plies to the upper dwelling the place of the " hall" in a North American house. The patio serves the same purpose in the lower house. In the more pre- tentious houses the patios are paved with marble, two or three colors often being formed into simple mosaic patterns. Sandstone, limestone, and granite are also used. More common than either is the baldosa^ a glazed tile rather more than an inch thick and eight inches square. In the poorer houses common building brick suffices for both patio and floor. The baldosa is the commion roofing material. The roofs are flat and surrounded by a wall or balustrade from two to three feet high. But little timber is used in the structure, except for rafters to OF SOUTH AMERICA. 41 support the baldosa roofs, doors, and window-sash. New and expensive houses have wooden floors, the sawed flooring for which comes from the United States. Window-glass is brought from France, and the necessary iron fixtures mostly from England. Two-story houses have a balcony overhanging the street, from which groups of ladies often manifest a lively interest in the passing events of this mundane sphere. An occasional mirador rising from the roof gives a small room, with or without glass enclosure, for the same purpose. When the heat of the sun is not too intense the roof furnishes a pleasant promenade for older people and a play-ground for the children, where, as they inhale the invigorating ocean breezes, the eye may wander over the broad expanse of roofs — where, perchance, other happy groups are assem- bled — out on the bay filled with sails from many lands, and around the curve of the coast where the first glimpse may be had of the incoming steamers. The sunlight fades away, and one by one the stars come out in the clear sky. The moon sheds down its silvery radiance. Friends, perhaps, are added for an hour to the family group on the house-top. A little servant brings up the mate cup, which passes from hand to hand, and the fragrant tea is leisurely sucked through the silver tube, as the soft murmur 4* 42 LA PLATA COUNTRIES of voices mingles with the sough of the surf Little eyes grow heavy, and one by one little heads are laid to rest and hands are clasped in those of the angel of sleep. The rumble of carts and all the harsher sounds of busy life die away. Pleasure-seekers return from theatre and turtulia. Now only the watchman's prolonged cry is heard: ^^ L-a-s d-o-c-e h-a-n t-o-c-a-d-o y t-o-d-o s-e-r-e-n-o ;'' and at last, under the pale moonlight and guarded by the sea, the city sleeps. Of the inhabitants of Montevideo, of Uruguay, and of all the La Plata, there are two distinct classes, the gente decente (literally decent people) and the pe-ons, or laborers. The first includes the pure-blooded descendants of the original Spanish settlers. They engage in war, politics, the learned professions and commerce, but never in any kind of manual labor unless driven to it by dire necessity, and even then few indeed but would prefer genteel dependence or even beggary. They are fastidious in dress, punctilious in etiquette, dignified in de- meanor, suave in conversation, haughty in their self-esteem, and a trifle vain of long, transparent finger-nails, which the dandy sometimes cultivates till long enough to make a pen-point. The ladies dress elegantly in European styles and fabrics, are OF SOUTH AMERICA. 43 social, vivacious, and versatile in conversation, dance gracefully, are devoted to music, embroidery, re- ligious exercises, and mate drinking, and leave household care to their servants. The peon is the descendant of the conquered, amalgamated, or re- duced Indians. He has never been anything but a laborer, a species of beast of burden, and rarely shows an awakening aspiration for a better lot. In both classes there are an infinitude of grades, but the labor line divides the two as distinctly as the color line separates the freedman and white citizen of the United States. One class absorbs the learned and mercantile residents from other countries, the other the laboring emigrants, who, however, have a better prospect of eventually over- stepping the dividing line and joining the upper class. Numerous servants of the one class are essential members of the household of the other. Even the poorest of the gente must contrive to be able to allude to some one as ** my servant" in order to retain his self-respect. The conventillo is the home of the laborer. This is a row of rooms without communicating doors. Each room is occupied by one or more families. The inclosed ground called 3.fo?ido is left unpaved, and is occupied jointly by all the families. An 44 LA PLATA COUNTRIES ordinary dwelling-house, when it is no longer fit to rent to a wealthier tenant, is often turned into a conventillo. As the walls are continuous and the rejas shield all windows alike, except in superior finish, there is no street distinction between the homes of the poor and the rich. It is only by glimpses through the gratings of open doors or windows that a hint is givQn of the life beyond. To all alike, every class of family supplies is taken in through the street door. Rarely, indeed, is there any other entrance. A horse and carriage are sometimes admitted by it. The government buildings occupy tvvo sides of the government plaza, from which Calle Diez-y-ocho begins. They are two stories high, of ordinary building brick, stuccoed, and with nothing dis- tinctive in their architecture, except a wide porch along the entire front supported by rather massive Corinthian columns. It is the avowed intention to continue this colonnade down the third side of the plaza. When completed it will be one of the most artistic, imposing, and comfortable of promenades. The conception is in keeping with the great ideals that seem ever to float in the liberated Spanish- American mind. Unfortunately, in many enter- prises, the greatness of the ideal and the poverty OF SOUTH AMERICA. 45 of the treasury induces a compromise ; and by the use of cheap material the present aesthetic effect is sought at the expense of durabihty, and a tawdry imitation rather than the true expression of tlie ideal is the result. The Church of the Matriz, or Cathedral of Montevideo, occupies the fourth side of the plaza. It is the largest and finest building in Uruguay, the only monument left to the little Republic by the Jesuits, and one of the four bequeathed by that order to the countries that have since grown out of the old Spanish Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. Devoid of all tawdry attempts at magnificence, it is a specimen of architecture to delight the eye yvith its solid restfulness of outline. In it the most august ceremonies of the Romish Church are performed. Here I witnessed the ceremony of the " Holy Function of Blessing the Candles," per- formed by " The Most Holy Bishop of Uruguay." When the bell in the great tower rang at nine o'clock in the morning, the long aisles were al- ready crowded. From behind the crimson cur- tains at the entrance of the left transept came a procession of small boys each carrying a long silver standard with a wax taper. The boys were followed by priests ranged according to their sev- 46 LA PLATA COUNTRIES eral orders. The first In long black robes and bareheaded. The next added their pointed sacer- dotal caps. Then one, aged and tottering, walked alone, in a faded purple mantle. Others followed in short linen gowns, and last came the Bishop, whose feeble steps were supported by a priest on either side, who, over their black gowns, wore linen overskirts trimmed with deep lace reaching to the knee, and over their shoulders rich satin surplices covered with heavy gold embroidery. The Bishop also wore the long linen overdress bordered with deep lace, and his square satin sur- plice was even more elaborately embroidered than those of his supporters. On his head he wore a high, pointed satin cap, in shape not unlike one sometimes seen on the head of a small boy in pictures of the village school. The procession went three times around the high altar, each time saluting the image of ''The Queen of Heaven" that filled the niche over it. The Bishop was then conducted to his reading desk, opposite to which, on the platform, chairs were placed for the priests. He then intoned a short address. Whether in Latin, Spanish, or Guarani it mattered little, as the only part dis- tinguishable was the syllable on, which occurred OF SOUTH AMERICA. A7 at regular intervals and was much prolonged. Throughout he kept up a feeble motion with his hands, which was probably meant as an invocation of the " Mother of God," as in making it he turned his eyes toward the image, gorgeous in satin, lace, and jewels. The address ended, he was seated on the plat- form opposite to the priests, and an armful of can- dles about three feet long laid beside him. Each priest then in turn knelt to the image, then to the Bishop, kissed the Bishop's ring, received a candle from his hand, again knelt to the image, and re- turned to his chair. The supporters who waited upon him throughout also received each a candle, kneeling and kissing the ring. More armfuls of candles were brought in. The boys who acted as torch-bearers and bell-ringers next each knelt, kissed the ring, and received a candle. (I was told that these boys and all who appear in similar cer- emonies are hired for the occasion, a rc-al being the usual price paid by the priests for such services.) The procession again formed and made the round of the cathedral with ringing of bells, swinging of censers, and the chanting of priests. It halted and burned incense before each of the twelve images in the side aisles. Before two of 48 LA PLATA COUNTRIES them the poor old Bishop knelt painfully and wrung his hands imploringly. (He died soon after this. He was spoken of as a " good man," an un- usual reputation for a priest.) When he had once more been conducted to his seat, many persons in the assembly who had brought candles with them took them to him to be sanctified by his touch. They, too, knelt first to the image, then to the Bishop, and kissed the ring. Some of these pri- vate candles, representing wealth, were long enough to serve as walking-sticks and were profusely or- namented. Others would cost not more than a penny. But whether they represented poverty or wealth, the evident satisfaction with which they were carried away was the same. The exhausted Bishop was at last pompously reconducted behind the crimson curtains, whither more candles and more devotees followed him. The audience lingered. Two priests in heavy gold-embroidered mantles came before the high altar and conducted a service that consisted princi- pally of ringing bells, burning incense, and repeat- edly seating themselves in high-backed chairs, over the backs of which the boys in waiting straightened their mantles. The people meantime knelt in the body of the church and many bowed to the floor. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 49 After this, a third priest in satin took his stand before the Altar of Luhilgcnccs at the head of tlie right aisle and began a ceremony before the silk- robed image that stood with outstretched hand above it. Among her votaries I noticed two old women in the garments of poverty, who, kneeling, bowed their stiffened bodies painfully till their haggard faces were pressed to the floor, then raised themselves laboriously only to repeat the process. Almost every week witnesses some " High Fun- cion" in the cathedral, and no day in the calendar but is marked for some special religious ceremony in honor of some object of worship. For, although the capital city of Uruguay is a commercial empo- rium, it is also a "city of the gods" or rather of the goddesses, as these seem to have the pre-em- inence, alike in numbers, costly paraphernalia, and devotion. Other churches in different parts of the city are only less imposing than the Matriz. Also, a few shrines in the walls on the streets ac- commodate the pedestrian worshipper. Monasteries and nunneries are seen in all directions, and rep- resentatives of numerous " orders" are encoun- tered everywhere. Many of the signs over shop doors make rather astounding revelations, such as — • c d 5 50 LA PLATA COUNTRIES that poor Job keeps coffins, St. Peter is a baker, Jesus Christ a confectioner, etc. Montevideo has two Protestant churches, both located in the old part of the city, and both easily reached by street cars. The first was built by English residents in 1846. In it the Anglican Episcopal service is maintained under the control of the " South American Missionary Society," for the convenience and comfort of British subjects. Services in the Spanish language were added in 1880. The other is that of the Methodist Epis- copal denomination, whose service is maintained by the " Foreign Missionary Society" of that or- ganization in the United States. It stationed a minister here in 1875. In 1882 the old theatre that had served it as a place of worship was re- paired and remodelled at a cost of ^2500. Of this sum ;^iooo was donated by the Government of Uruguay. The work of these two societies and of the Bible societies of the United States and Great Britain are the only advantage yet taken by Protestant Christendom of the decree of religious toleration promulgated by the Government of Uru- guay at the beginning of its existence. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 51 CHAPTER III. POrULAR AMUSEMENTS. The tiu'tulia, or dancing party, is a favorite amuse- ment of Montevideans, scarcely second to religious festivals. But of all amusements the bull-fi£:ht seems to meet the highest appreciation. The bull-ring is three miles beyond the city limit. A hollow brick wall, twenty feet high, encloses a circular tract of several acres. The upper seats are on a level with the platform at the top of the waM. Within the wall and under the seats are the com- partments for the horses, the cages for the bulls, dressing-rooms for the actors, the home of the janitor, and a drinking-saloon. The best private box belongs to the government. Over it is the Uruguay coat-of-arms, and it is always occupied by government officials. The President of the Repub- lic holds the post of honor as head of the bull- fight, as does the king in Spain. The manager's box is opposite to that of the government. From 52 LA PLATA COUNTRIES it, with his keen eye, he directs the entertainments. There are several boxes taken by the aristocracy and one by the municipahty. Aside from these there are seats for 7000 spectators and standing room for about loco. A ticket for an open seat costs $5. The Tauromachian Company is as regu- larly organized as any opera troupe. They come from Spain, where all the actors are trained and all the rules governing them made. Sunday is the day for bull-fights, although a feast day is occasionally honored by one. ** The Season" begins in December, and lasts about four months, during which time the exhibition is opened regu- larly at three o'clock in the afternoon. For days beforehand the newspapers are full of sensational advertisements, and for days succeeding reviews give technical details, and artistic criticisms crowd out other matter. Spectators come from Buenos Ayres and more remote places by hundreds. Steamers make special excursions for them. When the hour has arrived, and all is in readi- ness, the President of the Republic, in behalf of the nation, indicates to the manager that the sport may begin. The manager gives the signal. The band strikes up a spirited march, and three picadorcs^ three bandcrilleros^ and two espadas enter, march OF sour II AMERICA. 53 around the arena, and salute the government offi- cials. The picadores are horsemen wearing padded trousers, lined with cowhide, to prevent the horns of the bull penetrating the flesh. They wear broad- brimmed hats. Brilliant capes hang gracefully over the arm. The bandcrillcros wear knee-breeches, magnificently embroidered down the sides in parti- colors. The waists are a glittering net-work of jet. They wear black caps and small capes, and carry slender rods about a foot long, with a barb on one end and a tassel on the other. The espadas are dressed in satin, yellow or some other bright color. Their knee-breeches are elaborately embroidered with red, white, and green. The upper part of their dress is a blaze of silver or gold embroidery, and throws scintillations of light with every step. They wear black caps, glowing capes, and long swords, well calculated to set off faces full of haughty pride, fire, and cruelty. When the gate is opened the bull (which has already been tortured in its cell) bounds into the arena, and is saluted with the firing of torpedoes. He is expected to look around him, panting, and paw the earth furiously. If he fail in these indi- cations of spirit the trainer is ready to commit suicide. For a native trainer to produce a bull 5* 54 LA PLATA COUNTRIES more fierce than those imported from Spain is to make a hero of him, and a public ovation is given him. While the bull is pawing the earth a picadore rides up and flaunts his cape or a red flag in the animal's face. The bull rushes at full speed upon horse and rider, but just as its horns are lowered to gore them the rider makes a quick turn, and another picadore flaunts the hated color before its eyes. They thus draw the danger from each other. Sometimes a bull kills as many as eight horses in succession, and as their entrails drag the ground the air rings with the applause of the spectators. The more horses a bull can kill before yielding to its fate the greater the eclat of the occasion, the brighter the smiles of the ladies, and the louder the huzzas of the populace. As poor old horses are selected for these honors the financial loss is inconsiderable, and the honor of despatching them might not be without moral weight if it were done with more humanity. Sometimes horse and rider share the same fate. When the bull is thoroughly maddened to frenzy, the bandcrilleros dance about him watching their chance to thrust a dart into his neck. The bull grows frantic, and his tormentors dance in and out of the arena like evil spirits, clad in dazzling gar- OF SOUTH AMERICA. 55 ments, tempting death in every motion. As he grows more terrible in his fury they increase in daring agih'ty. At length the cspada presents him- self before the manager and begs permission to kill the bull. Bowing low in acknowledgment of the favor, he advances with proud bearing, sword in hand, over which is thrown a gay cloth. Now comes the thrilling part of the exhibition, to which all that has preceded has been simply introductory. The tormentors grow more daring, darting reck- lessly under the horns of the bull, running before him with only their trailing capes between them and death. Yet is there method in their recklessness. They must keep the creature within certain limits, where he can most advantageously be met by the espada^ who, in the mean time, keeps close by his side, watching his opportunity to make the fatal sword thrust. By his anatomical knowledge he knows when to seize the auspicious moment, and " the brute with a soul and the brute without a soul meet in the almost equal contest for life." If the first thrust does not prove fatal the chase must be renewed. When the bull falls the troop of tormentors circle around him, waving their brilliant capes in exulta- tion. The bands strike up triumphant strains, 56 LA PLATA COUNTRIES rockets are fired, and the spectators are tumultuous with their acclamations, as were the old Romans in the gladiatorial contests. Horses are brought into the arena drawing a pair of low wheels, to which the carcass is attached and hurried through the exit gateway, and a fresh victim is admitted. Usually six, sometimes eight, bulls are killed for an after- noon's entertainment. Sea-bathing ranks next after the bull-fight as a summer diversion. The smooth, sandy, gently- sloping beaches extending on either side of the city afford the best of facilities, to which are added the conveniences of dressing-rooms and bathing- carts for those amphibiously inclined. For their further accommodation street-car tracks are ex- tended to the several playas. A legal enactment forbids men and women bathing together, but the adjacent portions of beach assigned to each are so near together that a single boat detailed from the life-saving service to hover near during bathing hours is supposed to give sufficient security to both companies. The women dress as tastefully for the water as for their every other appearance in public. But the bathing costume of the men reminds one of the South Sea Islander, who, under the civilizing in- OF SOUTH AMERICA. 57 fluence of missionary effort, renounced barbarism and appeared in full-dress, — with nothing on but a standing collar. The evidently modest intent of the legislators is somewhat foiled by the arrangement which places the women's bathing places farther from the city than those for the men, thus necessitating passing them in going and returning. The water is about half salt, — that is, the ocean and river water are mingled in about equal propor- tions, and a free indulgence is recommended by local physicians. Bathers sit rather than swim in the water. Many ladies go provided with gloves, sun-hats, and parasols to preserve their complexions, and sit in the water neck-deep one, two, three, or even four hours at a time. Others take two hours in the morning and again two in the afternoon. The impression prevails that it is healthful to take some food immediately after leaving the water, and for this purpose some milch cows are brought near the entrance to the bath-houses, from which those wishing it can get a glass of warm milk. Cakes and bread can also be bought at these stands. The Montevideo baths are yearly becoming more pop- ular, and by them the elite are attracted to the city from the interior and from the cities of the Argen- 58 LA PLATA COUNTRIES tine Republic. Fashionable life may be thus summed up during the bathing season : Morning baths be- tween nine and eleven o'clock, breakfast from eleven to one, then siesta. Afternoon baths from three to five, dinner from six to eight, then the turtiilia^ theatre, or social evening ; on Sunday the bull-fight. It would be hard to imagine a pleasanter recrea- tion than a drive or stroll down the Paseo Molino, a suburban street of delightful residences in every style of architecture, from the light, airy pagoda to the solid Ionian, surrounded by ample grounds, as artistic in design as the homes they supplement. The Paseo Molino ends at the " Prado," a Central or Fairmount Park, of which the citizens have all the advantage without having borne any of the cost. Many years ago a Mr. Buschenthal bought a large tract of land here and undertook to convert it into an earthly paradise. Groves of Brazilian, Austra- lian, and Indian trees were transplanted to this estate. Brooklets were made to meander through romantic little glens and wildernesses of shrubbery. Foun- tains and tiny lakes sparkled in the sunlight, and plaster water-nymphs peeped from leafy coverts in imitation of Italian and Grecian art glories. After a time the paradise scheme was abandoned and the *' Prado" offered for sale ; but no purchaser appeared. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 59 The city fathers looked into the treasury and shook their heads. A few fragments were sold and turned into suburban homes, but tlie main part of the estate still lies open to pleasure-seekers. The family mansion is falling to decay. The city has expended quite a sum on a little paradise scheme of its own at Villa Colon, twelve miles from the city around the curve of the bay. It is a park of noble dimensions, in which green turf and colonnades of majestic trees are the chief characteristics. As no trees grow indigenously in this locality save the cactus and agave (if these may be called trees), great labor is required to accom- plish such a result. Villa Colon is reached by a pleasant railroad ride around the base of the grass- covered " Mount," which affords a fine view of both city and bay. Around the latter are anchored the British and American fleets, also one or more men- of-war bearing the German, French, and BraziHan colors, possibly those also of other nations. Such representatives of the civilized world are usually hovering about the mouth of the La Plata ; for, while treaties are acknowledged as good in their way, the opinion seems to prevail that they are more effective with a few guns close at hand. Immediately beyond the city suburbs the country 6o J- A PLATA COUNTRIES ■presents a rather dreary aspect, with a few small patches of cultivated ground surrounded by hedges of cactus and agave. The species of agave thus utilized is that cultivated as a house plant in some portions of the United States under the fictitious title of " century plant." When seven years old, or thereabout, the plant sends up a flower-stalk from the centre of its tuft of stiff leaves to the height of about twenty feet. The top of this flower-stalk is crowned by a huge raceme of yellowish-white flow- ers. Shooting up at regular intervals, a row of these flower-stalks bears a not unapt resemblance to a grove of young palm trees. After blooming the plant dies. But as a cluster of new ones spring from the roots, the agave is practically an undying, although a rather cumbrous hedge. The leaves, each ending in a thorn, are about four feet high. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 6l CHAPTER IV. BURIAL CUSTOMS. My attention was one day attracted by a funeral procession wending its way through the city streets to the cemetery. In a city of more than a hundred thousand inhabitants, a funeral procession is usually nothing remarkable, yet this procession impressed me as deserving that distinction. It was wholly of girls of (judging from their size) from ten to four- teen years of age. Each wore a square mantle shaped like those the priests wear while performing mass, on the back of which was a gilt cross. The open coffin was carried by the larger girls. The exposed corpse — of a girl apparently the same age as the bearers — was surrounded with flowers. Im- mediately behind the coffin walked a girl carrying, upright, the coffin lid, on the full length of which was a gilt cross. After her the girls of the proces- sion walked in pairs. Not infrequently funeral processions are seen where the coffin is carried by men, followed by a 52 LA PLATA COUNTRIES long procession of empty carriages. Indeed, eti- quette demands that any one of the gentc decente above the rank of a pauper shall be carried by hand a part of the way to his last home. The corpse may be carried a block or a mile before being placed in the hearse, but the distance is always commensurate with the social position of the deceased, or with his claims upon the public for posthumous honors. Those who form the proces- sion ride back from the cemetery in the carriages. Women do not attend funerals. The Montevideo cemetery is said to be the most beautiful city of the dead in the southern hemi- sphere. It is a large enclosure surrounded on one side by the bay and on all others by a high wall seven feet thick. Two other walls of nearly the same height and double the thickness divide the enclosure into three parts. In the first, well-kept walks wind gracefully among clumps of evergreens and shrubs of fragrant bloom, among w^hich are many costly monuments. Behind the first wall are more humble graves over which the green grass creeps, mingled with tufts of wild flowers. The surrounding and dividing walls are piles of graves, or tiers of cells just large enough to admit a coffin endwise, and when it is in place the opened arch is OF SOUTH AMERICA. 63 again closed up with masonry and whitewashed over. On this space friends may hang memorial wreaths and other symbols of their grief. The most common device is a wreath of large flowers made out of black and white beads. These niches or cells in the walls are rented for one, two, or more years, and the body is suffered to remain as long as the rent is kept paid, but if it falls into arrears the tenant is ejected and the place made ready for another occupant. A visit to this cemetery suggests several scriptural allusions, such as of " whited walls" filled with " dead men's bones." And the rejoicing that Christ's body was laid in a nciv tomb, " wherein never man before was laid," and " saw not corruption," takes on new significance. There is a beautiful little chapel in the first division of the cemetery, in which the burial service may be performed. In a crypt beneath it now rest the ashes of the once famous Gaucho bandit, Artigas, whom the Orientals* now honor as the liberator of his country and the preserver of its independence. To receive this honor from his countrymen, his body was at length recalled from * This is the name by which the inhabitants of Uruguay are familiarly known. 64 LA PLATA COUNTRIES Paraguay, where his last years were spent under the protection of the tyrant Dictator, Francia. Such posthumous honors have been quite in vogue in the La Plata countries. Pizarro gave the Spanish- Americans the example of honoring slaughtered slaughterers with magnificent funerals and state mourners, an example they have shown no disposi- tion to neglect. When the visitor tires of the adulation of earthly glory, and wishes to penetrate the veil that separates Paradise from Purgatory, he need only step through the second wall to the space behind the potters' field that has become the receptacle of the bankrupt tenants of the walls. There, if so inclined, he may gather human skeletons at will. Birds and insects, — nature's scavengers, — the dews of heaven, rain, and falling sea-spray are cleansing and bleaching them. The English cemetery occupies a square in another part of the city, where the dead sleep under grassy mounds shaded with trees, enclosed by a simple wall. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 65 CHAPTER V. BUSINESS CONVENIENCES. An early acquaintance with its currency is essen- tial to a comfortable existence in any foreign coun- try. Fortunately for the stranger, the monetary system of Uruguay has arrived at a simple solidity, in which the peso, or dollar, is the unit of value. Its fractions and multiples follow the decimal sys- tem. One-dollar, two-and-a-half dollar, five-dollar, and ten-dollar pieces are of gold. Their paper representatives have the same commercial value within the Republic, and, to a limited extent, along its borders. Ii^ silver there are the one-real, two- real, five-real, and onQ-pcso [$) coins. The five-real piece is the Uruguayan half-dollar, but the confusing quarter has no existence. The Uruguayan peso is worth one dollar and four cents of United States gold. In copper there are the cobre (cent), vinten, and dos-vi)itens. The vi)iten is a double cobre, or two cents, and the dos-viiiiens, as its name indicates, « 6* 66 LA PLATA COUNTRIES is a double viiiten, or four cents, a coin sufficiently unwieldy to insure its speedy banishment from among any people with whom " a big thing" is not the ultimatum of ambition. The following is a convenient table of Uruguayan currency : 2 cobres . = l vinten, 2 vintens = I dos-vintens, 5 dos-vintens = i real, lo reals = I peso, marked %. English and Chilian gold, Brazilian gold and silver, and Bolivian silver are also in circulation, and money-changers are eager to accommodate their unhappy possessers with a liberal shave and a balance. There are several foreign and local banks doing business in the city, noticeable among which is "The London and River Platte Bank, Lim- ited," that has the right to issue bill#for circulation. Its banking-house is one of the best buildings in the city devoted to business. The better to facilitate its commercial interests, in 1 88 1 the Uruguayan Congress passed a bill to incorporate a national bank with a capital of ;^io,ooo,ooo, to be subscribed in ^loo shares; the bank to be located in Montevideo, with branches in OF SOUTH AMERICA. 67 other towns of the Repubh'c, as the interests of the various Departments may require. It is the expec- tation of those who have advocated this step that the poHcy of making it possible for citizens of even moderate means to become partners with the gov- ernment in the creation and control of the national currency will prove as advantageous and give as solid a basis for national credit as it has done in the United States. The nation is not only learning how to create a stable currency, but also how to control its expen- ditures. In 1882 the national outlay was only ^5000 in excess of its income ; and to prevent even this deficit in the future, the Finance Committee raised the tariff on imports, making a discrimina- tion between those needed for the development of the country and those contributing to the luxuries of life. No institution of a country is of more interest to the foreign resident, or visited with more solicitude, than the post-office. Nor is this interest wholly selfish, as nothing so much facilitates good govern- ment and the tranquillity of the people as the means of ready communication, which insures against the possibility of surprises and insurrections. Nothing more surely indicates the advancement that this country has made in the past decade, or augurs 68 LA PLATA COUNTRIES more favorably for its future stability, than the in- crease in its postal service. In Montevideo a cred- itable and commodious building in a central location is devoted to its use, and in it business is transacted with a decorum and accuracy that would be no discredit to the capital city of an older nation. According to the records of the Postal Department for 1883 there are 294 post-offices in Uruguay, and during the year a million ordinary letters, twenty thousand registered letters, seventy thousand gov- ernment despatches, and a million newspapers passed through the mail. Local letter postage is five cents per ounce, and foreign postage ten cents per half ounce. The possibility of speedy intercommunication is further facilitated by telegraph lines that connect the principal towns and villages of the interior with the capital. A subfluvial telegraph connects the cities of Montevideo and Buenos Ayres, and in 1883 a contract was made between the Governments of Uruguay and the Argentine Republic by which the Uruguayan land lines might be extended to the Island of Martin Garcia, in the La Plata River, be- longing to the Argentine Republic, and there con- nect with its land lines. Through Buenos Ayres, by way of the Argentine Transandine Telegraph, OF SOUTH AMERICA. 60 Uruguay has communication with tlie Pacific const. A submarine telegraph binds Montevideo to Rio dc Janeiro via Rio Grande. A cable extends from Rio de Janeiro to St. Vincents, Cape Verde Islands, and thence to Liverpool. Other cables make Liverpool next-door neighbor to New York. By this round- about route a telegraphic communication may be sent from the commercial emporium in latitude 34° 53' south to the commercial emporium in 40'^ 42' 43'' north at the rate of $4. per word. Every initial letter in the address and signature of a cable mes- sage is counted as a separate word. By government telegraph between Montevideo and Rio de Janeiro a message costs forty cents per word, or sixty cents per code-word. The Western and Brazilian Telegraph Company, between the same cities, charges one dollar and sixty cents per w^ord. By either line the message is sent in Spanish or English at the same price. Local messages and those transmitted to the Argentine Republic cost twice as much if sent in English as the same number of words in Spanish. The telegraphs, like the railroads and many other modern conveniences, are the result of English capital seeking profitable investment. On taking a seat in a street-car, a comfortable ^O LA PLATA COUNTRIES sense of home is experienced on reading the gilt legend over the door, " Stevenson & Co., New York," and when the conductor makes his round, tearing off now a blue, now a yellow, now a red or green ticket, happy is he who escapes the giddy whirl through his brain of — " A pink strip slip for a five-cent fare. A blue strip slip for a six-cent fare. * Punch in the presence of the passenjair." Almost ever}'- part of Montevideo and its suburbs (which in 1883 included more than one hundred thousand inhabitants) can easily be reached by street-car. The routes are in circuits, going by one street and returning by another, so that there is no inconvenience of switching and waiting in passing, except where different routes unite. On street Dicz-y-ocJio there are double tracks. Although American cars are in use, these lines are not built or operated on American capital. The street-car is not the only reminder of American enterprise. The telephone was intro- duced in 1882, and within a year three hundred miles of line were in use. The ubiquitous rocking- OF SOUTH AMERICA. 71 chair bids fair to extend its empire from pole to pole as soon as navigation is opened. In 1859, the year in which its national existence was guaranteed, the importation of twelve thousand chairs (not all rocking-chairs) represented the bulk of Uruguay's trade with the United States ; and, although agricultural implements have followed in their wake, the weary traveller who yields to the soothing sway that has from childhood banished his cares, can reflect that, in one part of the world at least, the rocking-chair and not the plough is the pioneer of civilization. Fifty-seven steamships arrive in Montevideo Bay from Europe per month. Twelve of these are from each of the three countries, England, France, and Portugal, nine from Germany, six from Spain, four from Italy, and two from Germany. There is not an important European city on the coast of the Atlantic and Mediterranean that is not thus brought into direct monthly or weekly com- munication with this port. Of English lines, "The Royal Mail" from South- ampton, and the *' Pacific Mail" are most popular with the travelling public. P^irst-class passage by them from England to Montevideo is from ^30 to ^35, and the passage is sometimes made 72 LA PLATA COUNTRIES in twenty-six days. The former go no farther. The latter proceed around Cape Horn to San Francisco, or intermediate points. Vessels from Australia via Cape Horn also touch at Montevideo. CHAPTER VI. THE REPUBLIC OF URUGUAY. Of the fifteen provinces of the old Spanish Vice- royalty of Buenos Ayres that for a generation be- wildered themselves and the world with the chaotic cry of ** Unitario" and " Federal," Uruguay is now the sole representative of the Unitario idea, — that is, a republican government, but not a federal re- public. Its territorial limits, from 30° to 35° south latitude, and from 53° to 58° 30^ west longitude, embrace an area of sixty-nine thousand eight hundred and thirty-five square miles, — more than thirteen times the area of Connecticut, and a little less than thirteen times that of Massachusetts. This area is in thirteen divisions, called Departments, which v^ary considerably in size. Taking an average, each Department has a larger territorial extent than Longitu de llW est aC Ij uiu ijr>M'n\s ilIi Al-Pil ()'.). {W:> Sq, M, Pop. ill mr)S-4;'.a :i4r> RiiUroiuls Tole g ru]) Ils c c «• (^ r OF SOUTH AMERICA. 73 Connecticut, and it will be but a trifling exaggeration to regard the Rcpublica Orioital del Uruguay as a confederation of thirteen States of the size of Mas- sachusetts. As integral parts of the government, how- ever, the Departments more nearly correspond with the divisions known in the United States as counties, parishes, or shires, with the added idea conveyed by the terms congressional and senatorial district. The national legislative body consists of Senate and House of Representatives. There is one senator from each Department, who is elected for six years. The House of Representatives has forty members, who are elected for three years. Congress holds an annual session from the 15th of February till the 30th of June. In the interim, the general control of the administration is vested in a committee of two senators and five representatives. According to the Constitution, the President is elected for a term of four years, and cannot be his own successor. But after one term has elapsed he is again eligible. Streams of water or the crests of the low mountain ranges which divide the prairies in all directions are the natural boundaries of the Departments. The highest land in Uruguay is in the Department of Minas, and only reaches an elevation of two thou- sand five hundred feet above sea level. The climate D 7 74 LA PLATA COUNTRIES of these thirteen Lihputian States can nowhere be excelled. Frost sometimes, and snow more rarely, visits the table-lands in midwinter, — that is, in July and August, but winter as known in Massachu- setts would be utterly incomprehensible to one acquainted only with Uruguayan skies. The prox- imity of the ocean also insures it against the droughts often experienced in less favored sections, and renders the oppressive heat of more inland States an impossibility. The mercury ranges from 32° to 88° Fahrenheit, occasionally rising to 100° in the plains. The climate is not only exceedingly pleasant, but also extremely healthful ; and although the " fountain of perpetual youth" may not be found within its borders, premature death is much more likely to result from accidental than natural causes. Few continental nations commanding no greater area offer a more extended coast-line to facilitate commercial intercourse. To its two hundred miles of Atlantic coast it adds one hundred and fifty-five miles on the La Plata estuary, — from Maldonada Point (which is practically sea-coast), — and two hundred and seventy miles on the Uruguay River. A total available shore-line of six hundred and twenty-five miles. P'rom the Brazilian boundary to Point Maldonada OF SOUTH AMERICA. 75 the coast is low and sandy, and presents no natural harbors of importance. But after passing this point it is high and rocky, with natural inlets waiting to be whitened with the busy sails of the world's inter- change. The lower part of the Uruguay River also is an estuary, which is an inland archipelago. The islands and coast are both low, and in seasons of freshet are liable to be overflowed, but present no greater obstructions to navigation than do the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers under the same circum- stances. The Uruguayan timber growth is confined to the ranges of low mountains and to the banks of water-courses, and cannot compare with that of the interior of the continent, nor yet with the undestroyed forests of the United States. Yet they offer sufficient supplies for the ordinary needs of its agricultural population, and may easily be made accessible in the prairie districts that sep- arate them and constitute the greater part of the Republic. In the timber districts an occasional walnut and mulberry tree are the North Amer- ican acquaintances that greet us, but for the most part the forests present a tangled, thorny growth unfit for lumber. In the legislation of Uruguay, thought was 76 LA PLATA COUNTRIES early turned to the possibility of augmenting its population from the overflow of Europe. But the state of armed unrest that had existed throughout the entire period during which the European eye had been suffered to penetrate its borders, had made an impression not calculated to call forth an enthusiastic response to the statement made by its government that its territory was open to im- migration. For several years that invitation scarce attracted one out of a million who were bidding adieu to the land of their fathers to become "Pil- lars of State" in newer countries. Even these scattering units from the throng of emigrants were followed by the trembling forebodings of those they left. Great Britain still gives to its children who go to the South American countries the assurance of an assisted passage home again if it be needed : an assurance it gives to its emi- grants to no other part of the world. But notwithstanding the unfavorable impression of the past, and the still too positive proof of fre- quent barbarities, the undeniable excellence of the country in all its physical aspects, added to the most delightful and desirable climate, is year by year deflecting a greater number from the strong tide of emigration flowing from Europe to North OF SOUTH AMERICA. 77 America and Australia. In 1883 Uruguay re- ceived the unprecedented number of 15,000. In the comparative security to peaceful avoca- tions enjoyed for the past few years, the Orientals themselves are beginning to realize that their true interests lie in the promotion of agricultural in- dustry and enlightened labor. As an exponent of this idea, and to further its development, " The Rural Association of Uruguay" has been organ- ized, and is modelled after similar associations in the United States and Great Britain. It held its first "fair" in the spring of 1883. This exhibit showed an encouraging condition of the various rural industries thus far undertaken, chief of which is sheep and cattle raising. The average value of sheep was then ;^i per head, of cattle $6, and of horses and mules $^. The cxposicion was carried on with all the grandiose formality without which a La Plata exhibit of the most insignificant kind would be an utter impossibility. " A Spaniard is nothing if not courtly," and his La Plata de- scendant can do nothing unless he does it with courtliness. Immigration and agriculture go hand-in-hand. In 1 87 1 even the environs of Montevideo were a desert from which the tread of armies had almost 7* 7 8 J^A PLATA COUNTRIES obliterated the vestiges of the chacras that gave to the insignificant population of the town a scanty supply of fruits and vegetables. In 1883 the Republic had 500,000 acres in cultivation. Wheat and Indian corn are the staple crops, and both give good returns for moderate labor. Gang ploughs are superseding the cumbrous implements of the past in tearing up the virgin soil of the prairies, and self-binding reapers and steam thresh- ers follow in their wake. In the new order of things the time-honored cactus and agave hedges are found of too slow growth to meet the pressing need, and already ;^ 10,000,000 worth of wire fence is assisting in keeping Uruguay's million horses, eight million cattle, and sixteen million sheep out of its grain fields. Almost every British ship that anchors in its roadstead brings an additional supply to meet the demand that must go on increasing until its thirty-five million acres of pasture lands as well as the cultivated fields are bounded in and cut up to keep pace with the more enlightened ideas that are dawning. The culture of cotton and sugar- cane preceded that of the cereals, and continues to give fair returns. Soil and climate combine to give all the possibilities of the most luscious OF SOUTH AMERICA. 79 fruits, and even with the crude knowledge brought to their culture, pears, apples, peaches, and apri- cots delight the eye, even when their flavor proves disappointing. But no disappointment attends an intimate acquaintance with its lemons, oranges, prunes, and figs, unless it be that one " must learn to like" the latter, which are more insipid in their fresh state than when dried, and the skin gives a hint of an unripe persimmon. Easy means of transportation, one of the first requisites of agricultural communities, is yet want- ing in Uruguay. It has only three hundred and seventy-five miles of railroad in operation and ninety-four more contracted. Of this the Central Uruguay Railroad Company has two hundred and seventy-seven miles in operation and forty-three in construction. The Salto Railroad, when finished, will be one hundred and twelve miles long, but now only reaches out sixty-two miles toward the north- ern frontier, while the Northern Railroad has only thirteen miles, and tHe Peste twenty-three. It is thus evident that the horse of flesh is still much more the dependence of the people than the horse of iron. For an indefinite future the pack-horse and bullock-cart are likely to remain the chief ser- vants of commerce. As in few, if any, portions of 8o LA PLATA COUNTRIES the globe railroads could be more easily constructed, and as capitalists are always in search of good in- vestments, it is naturally inferred that political un- certainties have prevented further investments of this kind. As the resources of the country were long drained by continual warfare, it must depend on foreign capital for such improvements. Unfortunately, Uruguay does not yet give the im- pression of perfect security of person and property within her borders. If the existence of an armed force could give such security, capital need seek no farther. For so small a country it has a strong military enrolment. With only 438,245 on its cen- sus list, it has 4500 in its standing army, 3200 in its military police force, and 20,000 in the national guard. This gives one military for every fourteen of the population, or, allowing the small average of four children to a family, every second able-bodied man is an enrolled soldier. Like the United States, Uruguay professes to elect its Chief Executive by ballot for a term of four years, but its method of exercising the elective franchise, like many other practices in vogue, is more nearly allied to that of the old Republic of Rome, and the voters have yet to convince the world that in their vocabulary ballots and bullets OF SOUTH AMERICA. 8 1 are not synonymous terms. The exciting political campaign of 1882, when tlie stronger military fol- lowing of General Maximo Santos compelled Presi- dent Vidal to resign, and placed Santos in the executive chair, was not a convincing argument to that effect. In the campaign the time-honored po- litical tactics and electioneering manoeuvres of armed bands scouring the plains and lurking in the wooded highlands were freely indulged, followed by the like- wise time-honored sequel of assassinations to es- tablish public tranquillity. Scarce had the political adjustment been recog- nized as established, and the rancor attending it died away, when the capital was again thrown into wild excitement by the announcement of inhuman bar- barities practised on two Italian prisoners confined in the Montevideo cabildo. Upon the discovery of these atrocities the diplomatic representatives of other nations protested in the name of their several governments, some of them going immediately on board the foreign war vessels lying in the bay until their home governments could be notified of the outrage and decide on their course of action. Presi- dent Santos made haste to denounce as unauthorized and to depose the military jailers by whose orders the tortures had been administered. But this action 82 LA PLATA COUNTRIES could not wholly remove the conviction that a coun- try in which such deeds are possible can only be regarded as civilized with some mental reserva- tions. Yet it must be recognized that agencies are at work that may in a short time remove the necessity of such mental reservations, and are sure to do so sooner or later. Among these influences that of the press is not insignificant. Twenty-one daily newspapers and forty weeklies and monthlies are the organs of various political parties, religious orders, and business and commercial interests. Discussions are carried on in them, often with a degree of acri- mony, not always free from offensive personalities, that argues a practically absolute freedom in the expression of opinion. The same bombastic adula- tion, the same magnifying of trifles that characterizes public addresses, characterizes much of the editorial matter and the jottings of correspondents. Al- though many of the prominent business men are English, and English brain as well as capital is expended in some of these enterprises, there is no paper published in the English language. Among the periodicals of a religious character is El Evan- gelista, a neat little paper published by the Metho- dists. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 83 Ever since the expulsion of its Spanish rulers, the citizens of Montevideo, of the gciitc class, have shown a commendable interest in the education of their children. Formerly private teachers could secure enviable salaries. Occasionally such an op- portunity may still be found. But this mode of instruction is now largely superseded by govern- ment schools and private subscription schools. In the latter, the courses of study and the prices of tuition are as various as the individuals conducting them. In the former, a thorough course of mental training is contemplated, including instruction in the various branches taught in the public schools of North America, and, in addition to these, religious instruction is given, for which a Catholic priest is employed. Thus every public school of Uruguay is virtually a church school as truly as the many distinctively church schools both in the cities and rural districts. In the rural districts, however, edu- cational facilities are extremely uncertain and re- stricted. According to the report of the Minister of Public Instruction for 1883, there were 688 schools in Uruguay. This includes all the schools in the Republic, — government, church, and private. In these 688 schools 1183 teachers were employed, on salaries ranging from $1"^ to ;$200 per month. In 84 ^^ PLATA COUNTRIES them 22,944 boys and 19,592 girls were taught. Boys and girls are usually taught in separate schools, although occasionally there is a mixed public school, and not infrequently very small boys are sent to private schools with their sisters. Notwithstanding the precaution taken by the state to educate the children in the religion of the state, it is claimed that the tendency of the public schools is to infidelity, and that they are rearing up for Uruguay a generation of sceptics. If this be so, it is not the first instance in which intellectual ex- pansion has had the same result. Whether mental discipline will produce infidelity depends on the foundation given for religious faith. The financial standing of any nation will always be measured by other nations by its exports and imports. Thus far, the products of its flocks and herds has been Uruguay's chief supply for exporta- tion. During the four years from 1880 to 1883, inclusive, the United States bought of these more than twenty and one-half million dollars' worth, v/hile it sold to Uruguay of all classes of its mer- chandise and manufactures only five and a quarter million dollars' worth. It is doubtful whether the average Yankee would be willing to accept the in- ference that among nations Uruguay is four times OF SOUTH AMERICA. 85 as important as the United States. Out of that twenty-seven and a half million dollars, we paid for more than twenty-seven million pounds of wool and fourteen and. a half million hides. Our busy fac- tories have converted the wool into cloth, and the hides have largely gone to keep our shoe factories supplied ; but the looms of England and France have clothed the growers of that wool, and Uru- guayan herdsmen do not wear American shoes. Yet encouragement may be drawn from this single item of the quadrennial showing. In the first year of it we sold to them to the value of ;^88o,37i and bought from them nearly six and one-third times that amount, while in the last year we sold to them to the value of ;$ 1,385,75 5 and bought from them only three times as much. Although its foreign associations have mostly been with Europe, the nation expresses respect for and admiration of the ** Great Republic," and would gladly accept an interchange of influences, social and financial. When the commissioners appointed by the United States to visit the several countries of South America in the interest of more intimate commercial relations reached the capital of Uru- guay, in the spring of 1885, they were received with every demonstration of welcome, and a grand 86 LA PLATA COUNTRIES military parade was given in honor of the occasion. The President expressed to them the desire of his people to imitate the United States in all things, assuring them that only its financial inability pre- vented Uruguay from offering a subsidy to a steam- ship line to bind the two nations more closely. But he added that if such a line should be created, they would gladly give to it special privileges in the way of harbor dues. CHAPTER VII. EPITOME OF URUGUAYAN HISTORY. Both Spain and Portugal claimed the territory of Uruguay under the grant of Pope Alexander VI., as well as by discovery, and made settlements within its limits. This territory was definitely ceded to Spain by Portugal by treaties made in 1724, 1750, and 1779, and remained a part of the Spanish Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres until the revolution of inde- pendence. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 87 Independence declared . . . July 18, 181 1 Invaded by Portuguese forces from Brazil . 1 8 13 Rescued by General Artigas . . . .1814 Again invaded from Brazil . . . .1816 Artigas conquered by Brazilians and forced to flee from Uruguay . . . . .1821 Brazil then forced the legislature of Uruguay to sign decree of annexation. Revolution against Brazil .... 1825 Independence acknowledged .... 1828 Constitution proclaimed . . . . .1831 General Oribe President of Uruguay when treaty of 1 828 was signed. Revolution against Oribe's government led by Don Fructuoso Rivera assisted by Argentine exiles and French fleet. Oribe assisted by Rosas, Dictator of Argentine Confedera- tion ........ 1839 Treaty of peace recognizing Oribe as Pres- ident ........ 1840 Hostilities renewed by Rivera party (" Col- orados") and the Oribe government over- thrown ....... 1845 Oribe asked assistance of Rosas, who be- sieged Montevideo nine years. England and P^rance joined in the war as allies 88 LA PLATA COUNTRIES of Rivera " to enforce the treaties of 1828 and 1840." English and French fleets withdrawn from the blockade of the La Plata 1849 War between the " Blancos" and " Colorados" continued, with Brazil as the ally of Rivera and Rosas of Oribe. Oribe killed, January, 1852 Don Juan Francisco Giro (a " Blanco") inau- gurated President . . . March I, 1852 " Colorado" opposition (known as the first Flores insurrection) led by General Ve- nancio Flores. " Colorado" massacre in Montevideo July 18, 1853 President Giro fled for protection to a neutral man-of-war lying in Montevideo Bay. Flores declared the executive chair vacant, and made himself President of a ruling triumvirate. After the death of his two colleagues, Flores became President of the Republic 1854 The Flores government overthrown and Don Luis Lanas made Provisional President . 1855 Flores withdrew to Buenos Ayres. Don Gabriel Antonio Pereira made President by both parties (" Colorados" and " Blan- cos") 1856 OF SOUTH AMERICA. 89 Administration of Pcreira the most prosperous era known since downfall of Spanish rule. Invasion from Buenos Ayres by General Ve- nancio Flores (known as second Flores insurrection) defeated by the energy of Carreras, Minister of State . . . .1858 Peace thence till the end of Pereira's term. Don Bernardo Prudencio Berro made Pres- ident by both parties . . . March r, i860 During Berro's administration the country was unusually prosperous. The aggregate capital engaged in business doubled be- tween 1858 and 1863. Third Flores insurrection .... 1863 On account of the civil war no election held at the close of Berro's term ; hence the duties of the Executive devolved on the President of the Senate, Don Antanacio C. Aguierre March i, 1864 Brazil presented a claim for indemnity of fifty counts, amounting to ^^ 14,000,000, and de- manded instant payment. Flores blockaded Montevideo with the help of Brazilian and Argentine troops. General Gomez, commander of government forces, taken prisoner and shot. President Aguierre 8* go LA PLATA COUNTRLES resigned. Senator Villaba assumed the Executive and entered into negotiations with Flores. General Venancio Flores en- tered Montevideo as Provisional Presi- dent ..... February, 23, 1865 Through him Uruguay became a party (M y 4, 1864) to the ** Triple Alliance" against Paraguay. A revolution against the government of Ve- nancio Flores, headed by his sons, caused him to resign . . . February 15, 1868 In a disturbance on February 19, 1868, he was assassinated. General Lorenzo Battle (" Colorado") made President March i, 1868 Blanco revolution ...... 1870 Dr. Don Theo Gomensero (" Colorado") made President March i, 1872 Treaty of peace between " Blancos" and " Col- orados" April 6, 1872 Continued civil disturbances. Don Jose EUauri made President ...... 1873 President Ellauri deposed by his own party and succeeded by General Pedro Varela . 1875 President Varela forced to resign by Colonel L. Latorre 1876 OF SOUTH AMERICA. 91 Latorre assumed dictatorial powers from March 11, 1876, until his election as Presi- dent March i, 1877 Dr. T. A. Vidal elected successor of Colonel L. Latorre, and inaugurated March 15, 1880 President Vidal compelled to resign by Gen- eral Maximo Santos, who became Presi- dent March i, 1882 PART II. THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC AND BOLIVIAN LA PLATA. CHAPTER VIII. THE ARGENTINE CAPITAL. From the capital of Uruguay to the capital of the Argentine Republic is sixty miles '* as the crow flies," but owing to sand-bars that distance is doubled by steamer route. The steamers en- gaged in the passenger trade between these two cities resemble those that ply on the Great Lakes of North America, being intended to brave the storms " that pile the waves mountain high," as well as ** to skim the silvery ripples that dance in the moonlight." When the water is really calm it is a pleasant ride, but a very slight breeze causes " a nasty choppy motion" that, to many, makes the estuary more disagreeable than the ocean. A steamer leaves each city every day at four o'clock in the afternoon, arriving before the other in about eight hours ; fare, $S. As the depth of water near the shore of either city is insufficient for them to reach the piers, they lie from half to three-quarters of a mile from shore 95 96 LA PLATA COUNTRIES and are reached by bocitas^ the same as ocean vessels. The bocitas add from ^i to ;^i.50 to the cost of the trip. On a bright afternoon in the latter part of July I bade a temporary adieu to the clean-washed streets of Montevideo and took my seat in a nicely-cushioned bocita about the size of an or- dinary skiff, and was rowed over the mirror-like surface of the bay to the "Jupiter," whose column of black smoke betokened its readiness to raise anchor. Some two or three hundred passengers were already chatting gayly on its deck, and within a few minutes the lessening spires of the city showed that we were in motion. The promenad- ing, the sprightly conversation, and the ripple of laughter continued on deck till the early winter twilight drove the people into the cabin, where they were soon giving as animated attention to dinner, which was served from six to eight o'clock, and consisted of twelve courses, as follows : 1st. Vermicelli soup and hard rolls. 2d. Fried fish served with sliced lemon. 3d. Partridge fried in sweet oil. 4th. Artichoke fried in oil. 5th. Macaroni and cheese with oil. 6th. Cold chicken with oil dressing. OF SOUTH AMERICA. ^y 7th. Roast beef served witli lettuce dipped in oil. 8th. Patty cake fried in oil. 9th. Custard. loth. Oranges. nth. Cigarettes. 1 2th. Coffee. Wine and water were on the table throughout the meal. Few took the latter pure. Wine is the universal table drink. As the meal progressed the joviality increased. Both ladies and gentlemen remained seated at the table during the smoking. A few ladies accepted the cigarette prepared for them by the nearest gentlemen, but smoking in public is not a common practice among ladies of refinement. Women of the laboring class are fre- quently seen on the streets with cigarettes in their mouths. When I awoke to find the morning sun shin- ing, the " Jupiter" was lying at anchor in the inner roads at Buenos Ayres, and a bevy of bocitas were vying with each other to be the first to reach us. Soon a confused chaffering: was jjoincf on over the ship's sides between their several owners and the passengers, each, apparently, intent on getting the best of the bargain. While waiting my turn I re- ceived the congratulations of a fellow-passenger Y. g 9 98 LA PLATA COUNTRIES on being able to make my first entry into the emporium of Argentina in this elegant manner rather than by water-cart, as would be necessary if the waves were rough. These are huge wheeled structures drawn by horses or bullocks, which often have to swim with their loads. The service is so severe that a horse rarely lasts more than four months in it. .Formerly, all cargo and pas- sengers entered at this port reached tn'ra jirma by their assistance. Now they are used only when the wind beats the bocitas away from the piers, and for those parts of the river front where the sand-bars leave the water too shallow when the tide is out even for small row-boats. When at last my turn came to climb the steps of the Catalinas mole, and I placed the fare, forty Buenos Ayres dollars (equal then to $1.20 United States gold, but when at par to $1.60), in his hand, the Italian boatman expressed astonishment that I could think the services of his boat worth so insig- nificant a sum. When satisfied that I knew it to be the amount fixed by Buenos Ayres law he no longer demurred, but made up in pitiful pleading for ten dollars more as a nap a. Seen through a clear atmosphere from the deck of a vessel in the river, the city of Buenos Ayres OF SOUTH AMERICA. 99 makes a pleasing picture, its numerous spires rest- ing against the sky, and the blue waters stretching out for miles in every direction in front of it, dotted with numerous sails. But on entering it the con- viction is irresistible that its site is greatly infe- rior to that of Montevideo, and that Dom Pedro Mendoza, who had the privilege of choosing from nearly the third of a continent, selected about as poor a spot for his city as the whole coast could offer him. Natural drainage is wanting, and arti- ficial drainage was slow in coming to its assistance, so that during the rainy season even paved streets are a slush and crossings almost impassable to pedestrians. But, notwithstanding the natural dis- advantage of its level, added to that of the barri- cades of sand that more than 40,000 miles of river- courses constantly heap up before it, Buenos Ayrcs has for three centuries defied all attempts at re- moval, and (including suburban villages) now boasts some 300,000 inhabitants, being not only the largest but also the most enterprising, most progressive, and most elegant city in the south temperate zone. Its general plan and the style of its buildmgs arc the same as in Montevideo. The ordinary building materials, adobes and marble. There is perhaps no city in America where more wealth has been 100 ^^ PLATA COUNTRIES lavished on elegant homes, albeit the outside archi- tecture gives little or no hint of the elegance within. Its many long streets of commodious business houses compare favorably with those of the prin- cipal cities of the United States, and are scarce be- hind them in the modern accessories to mercantile activities. There is also more of that business bustle that characterizes North American cities than is to be encountered elsewhere in the La Plata. Five railroads radiate from it, and nearly a hundred miles of street-car tracks make every part of it easily available to the masses. The telephone and the telegraph are available almost everywhere. Upon its invention the electric light speedily became popular, and by its aid the terror of stalking shad- ows has been banished. Next to the revolutionary character of the country the want of a suitable port has been the greatest drawback to its prosperity. To remedy this evil the work of improving the Boca, or mouth of the Rio Chuela, was begun some years ago, and has been carried forward with as much despatch as could conveniently be thrown into it. The Rio Chuela is a small creek that empties into the Plata three miles below the original site of the city, but is now within its suburbs. In 1880 small coasting crafts could enter the Boca. Four OF SOUTH AMER'ICA.' ^CI years later a width of 150 feet had been secured, with a depth of water sufficient to float vessels of 2500 tons burden, which can he at an embankment of soHd masonry and discharge their cargo on flag- stone and Macadam pavement, instead of lying out in the estuary from six to twelve miles, and sub- jecting merchandise to as much cost for lighterage as for freight from Europe, besides requiring only about one-fourth of the time to unload. A suffi- cient depth will soon be secured to admit the largest vessels. While the United States was celebrating its Centennial, the President of the Argentine Re- public declared to its Congress that " The port of Buenos Ayres is in the same condition as when en- tered by the fleet of Sebastian Cabot," Long ere its Centennial its Congress will probably decree a jubilee over the completion of one of the finest ports accessible to seafaring men. The twin piers that reach out to welcome the traveller was the first great scheme of improvement engaged in by the Government of Buenos Ayres after the overthrow of the tyrant Rosas. The opening of the Rio Chuela is the crowning maritime event of the twenty-one years of the consolidated government, and a worthy indication that the Argentine Republic has reached its majority. A ship's harbor is also in progress, .I02 ^^ PLATA COUNTRIES extending along the city front in a northwesterly direction from the Boca, in which, when completed, the largest ships may lie out of the way of moving crafts, and, sheltered from storms, unload direct to the warehouses lining the shore. Then farewell to water-carts ! " Farewell forever !" The advantage of such a harbor can be appreciated by any one who has witnessed a storm on this river. One oc- curred a few days after my arrival, which, seen from the Boca, was terrible in its grandeur. The wind caught up the water in a column resembling the trunk of a great cypress tree, and carried it to the height of, probably, 150 feet, where it spread out like the drooping branches of an elm, and fell with resounding force. The estuary all about it was like a boiling caldron, and ships were tossed about like bubbles of foam. Several small boats were dashed to pieces, and one steamer raised the distress signal, but no human power could reach it. Witnessing such a scene may well give rise to a feeling of thankfulness that one is on solid earth rather than in Argentine quarantine. In 1871 Buenos Ayres lost one-fourth of its population by the yellow fever, introduced from Rio de Janeiro. As high as nine hundred deaths were reported in a single day. Since that time strict quarantine meas- OF SOUTH AMERICA. 103 ures have been enforced, and every one arriving be- tween the 1st of December and the 1st of June by a vessel that has touched at a Brazihan port north of Rio Grande is required to spend two weeks on an old hulk anchored several miles from the city. It is an experience none could covet, and many who would be in risk of its enforcement mitigate the ** durance vile" by landing at Montevideo and pass- ing the quarantine in the building erected for that purpose by the Uruguay Government on an island a short distance from the coast. When the building is occupied a steam-tender makes daily trips to it carrying provisions. Neatly-kept gardens and grass-plots border the river above the warehouses, and numerous little parks are scattered through the city. In the princi- pal one, Plaza 11 de Seiienibre (named in commem- oration of the Federal victory over General Urquiza in 1852), the government dedicated a neat column to the memory of San Martin, the hero of South American independence, on the occasion of the cen- tenary anniversary of his birth in 1877. The event caused general rejoicing, and representatives of the neighboring republics participated in the ceremony of its dedication. It is a grateful tribute to a worthy man who devoted his life to a worthy cause, and 104 ^^ PLATA COUNTRIES who is better appreciated now than he was at the time of his death. The honor of canonization has also been conferred on him, and a day assigned to him in the South American calendar. There are also many pleasant drives, and a fine boulevard, where the elite enjoy the air in their luxurious carriages, or enjoy the more exhilarating exercise of a ride on horseback. *' Haughty dons and ravishing seiioritas" are here seen in all their glory. An excellent, well-trained saddle-horse can be bought for from $30 to $40, but its stylish equip- ments cost from $^Q0 to ^500. The mountings of the saddle, including the stirrups, are of Solid silver. The stirrup of a lady's saddle is an elegant silver slipper. The nine months of summer and the many warm, bright days in the short winter give ample opportunity for the indulgence of this popular pas- time. • Nine well-patronized theatres give a further proof of a love for amusement on the part of the citizens. Of public buildings, the Cathedral, built by the Jesuits in the 17th century, is the most notable and one of the four finest specimens of church architect- ure on the continent. Five hundred Indian slaves from the Jesuit missioits in Paraguay were employed in its construction. As we enter it several Lazaruses OF SOUTH AMERICA. IO5 are basking in the bright sunshine on the steps, and others are crouching in the magnificent vestibule waiting an ahns, wliile within a mass for the dead is being celebrated in the dim obscurity of wax tapers. The University, founded in 1820, and supported by the National Government, is the exponent of the more modern idea of human development. It has a faculty of forty-two professors, several of whom are foreigners, mostly Germans. Its classical curri- culum is much the same as that of Harvard. It has also the four departments of law, medicine, science, and engineering, a diploma from either one of which is an almost certain preferment to wealth and position. It has a library of over sixty thou- sand volumes, many of them exponents of the re- searches of European scientists, and an interesting museum. Although among the most important, the Govern- ment House is one of the least attractive buildincrs. It is two stories high, of common adobes stuccoed and color-washed a pale pink. In it the National Government was the guest of the Province of Buenos Ayres for seventeen years, pending the de- cision of where the Federal capital should be per- manently located. This question, so important to jo6 LA PLATA COUNTRIES the peace and stability of the nation, was settled most satisfactorily in 1880 by the Province of Buenos Ayres presenting the city, with ample suburbs, to the nation as a Federal district. The Provincial Government then remained the guest of the National Government until 1882, when the site was chosen for the new Provincial capital. The Federal Congress meets every year, and re- mains in session from the 1st of May till the 1st of September. The Senate is composed of twenty- eight members, two from each province, who are elected for a term of six years. At present the Lower House (House of Deputies) has eighty-six members, who are elected for four years, one half being elected every two years. Both senators and deputies receive an annual salary of 1^3500. Like the senators, the President and Vice-President are elected for six years, and the President is not eligible to re-election. The Vice-President is chair- man of the Senate. Although characterized by refined and grave dignity, many of the legislators are comparatively young men, fully imbued with the idea of Argentina's present and prospective greatness and her future importance among na- tions, and manifest the determination to place her in the foremost rank of republican governments, OF SOUTH AMERICA. I07 side by side with the United States. The first Con- gress that met after the removal of the Provincial capital took up the question of city improvements in a manner that showed the intention of making the Federal capital the worthy type of a great nation. Very properly it began by adopting a proposition for a thorough system of drainage, and appropriated ;$8,ooo,ooo to carry it into execution. When this has been accomplished the condition of the city will cease to be a parody on its name, — good air. Even though a six o'clock dinner has consisted of twelve courses, one is apt to feel the cravings of appetite before a city of 300,000 inhabitants has been gone over. Obeying the instinct of self- preservation, he may enter a hotel with an assur- ance gained by experience that breakfast may be had any time after nine o'clock. This is the early breakfast hour. From one to two o'clock is a rather late one. Eleven is everywhere the most usual breakfast time. The city is well supplied with hotels, — French, Italian, English, Creole, — at which the charges are no more exorbitant than at those of the same comparative standing in the United States. Some are on the " European plan," others on the " American." Reasonably good ac- I08 L^ PLATA COUNTRIES commodations can be had in private boarding- houses for from $2^ to $2,0 per month. As eggs sometimes cost one dollar per dozen and fowls are rarely less than seventy-five cents apiece, little ob- jection can be made to these prices, — provided always, that the fowls and eggs be not too per- sistently replaced by beef and mutton, which are the cheapest articles of food attainable. If the outer door be open, the visitor at either a hotel or private residence enters the patio and announces his presence by a vigorous clapping of the hands. If the street door be shut, the same signal will call an attendant from within; It is not usual for ladies unaccompanied by gentlemen to eat at the public hotel table. Their meals are served in their own rooms. But in those hotels where North Americans and English are frequent guests this rule is not strictly ad- hered to. My first hotel breakfast in Buenos Ayres (brought on by the waiter without previous speci- fication on my part) consisted of six courses, as follows : 1st. Beef broth with shreds of cabbage and crumbs of bread. (This is called caldo) 2d. Fried fish. OF SOUTH AMERICA. IO9 3d. Blood sausage (which the waiter assured me I could eat with confidence, as it was made in the house, but which I had not the confidence to touch). 4th. Mutton-chops and fried potatoes. 5th. Sweet omelet. 6th. Tea. A long loaf of bread lay on the table, but after seeing many like it in hands not the cleanest, and coming in contact with pantaloon legs not fresh from the laundry, I did not feel particularly drawn towards the " staff of life." Such fastidi- ousness soon wears away and the superiority of Buenos Ayrean bakers is frankly admitted. Eng- lish, French, and Creole bread may be had as preferred, the two first in loaves, the last in rolls. The gallita is a native roll that is baked very hard, keeps well, and makes long journeys in bakers' carts to supply the country people. Bread is not baked in private houses either in the city or country. There are no conveniences for so doing. Bread making is a business that belongs exclusively to the professional baker. Soup or caldo is an essential part of every meal. The same meat that serves for the caldo for breakfast, with longer cooking gives a rich 10 no LA PLATA COUNTRIES soup for dinner. Supper is not a customary meal. The blood sausage referred to in my breakfast bill of fare is a favorite national dish, and is made from the blood of the ox or sheep, mixed with chopped garlic or onions, and occasionally with other ingredients, I was repeatedly assured that one who does not eat it need not expect to retain strength in that climate. The climate, how- ever, is not more trying than that of Cincinnati. The mean average temperature in the city from March to September, 1880, was 72° Fahrenheit. The highest temperature was 98°, and the lowest 39°- I was amused with a Scotchman's relation of his first experience in satisfying the cravings of appetite in Buenos Ayres. Knowing little of the Spanish language and nothing of the customs of the country, he read over a door the sign '' paii con leclie'' (bread with milk), and concluded he would indulge himself with a bowl of bread and milk. He stepped in and as best he could laid his wants before the proprietor. A dry roll was handed to him. After exercising his patience for a time, he modestly suggested that he was waiting for the milk. " It is in the bread," said the shop- OF SOUTH AMERICA. HI keeper, and added, " If the gentleman would like IccJie he can get it at the taniboy The tanibo is a place where cows, goats, or mares are kept for their milk. A travelling tanibo is the milk animal led through the street by a halter, to be milked at the doors of regular cus- tomers, or anywhere that a chance customer pre- sents himself. The milk is drawn into the cup or glass presented, and it is not unusual for the pur- chaser to drink it on the spot. The iambo then travels on until another cupful is wanted. A drink of warm milk may be had in this way for eight cents. Mares are never worked, and are kept in the cities only for their milk. Occasion- ally a herd of a dozen or more may be seen making the rounds of their customers. The milk is considered more nourishing than that of the cow. With all this display of the milk animal, comparatively little use is made by the natives of either milk or its products. My arrival in the Argentine capital was just three weeks after the siege of the city was raised at the end of the revolution of 1880, and my first act, after receiving the permissive nod of the customs officer, was to take a carriage (for which I paid ^2.80 per hour) and instruct the driver to go to 112 LA PLATA COUNTRIES the scene of the recent fighting, where I found men at work replacing the cobble-stone pavements that had been torn up to make barricades, and filling the trenches that had been dug across the streets. In the adjoining public square troops with bronzed faces, clad in knickerbockers of blue, black, red, and gray, were going through a military drill in a running fox-trot. The whole scene was more sug- gestive of Sepoy comparisons than of beating swords into pruning-hooks. This is universally referred to as one of the fiercest, sharpest, most decisive, and briefest of all the La Plata revolutions, having been conceived, begun, and ended within three months. Every one had his own particular tale of horrors to relate. It was a modern attempt to continue the Gaucho mode of carrying an election. Its signal failure is readily interpreted as an indication that " the past can never return." In March, 1880, General Julio Roca was elected President of the Argentine Republic for the con- stitutional term of six years. The defeated candi- date, unwilling to accept his defeat, set out for the capital city, driving before him a large troop of horses, which he expected to be manned by the population of the rural districts flocking to his OF SOUTH AMERICA. II3 standard as he pressed onward, arming themselves with spears made by breaking sheep shears in two and lashing each point to the end of a pole. These simple arms had proved formidable weapons in many a civil contest, and by them a strange alliance was effected between the most peaceful of all avoca- tions and the savagery of continuous war. But in this instance the expectation of the chief was des- tined to non-fulfilment. Enough men did not join his standard to conquer the seat of government. Instead, the Provinces sent troops to the assistance of the capital, and the besiegers were in turn be- sieged. The drove of horses added to their embar- rassment. The starving people were reduced to the necessity of eating the starving animals, and piles of bones from which the flesh had been eaten lay in the streets. Hundreds of carcasses of horses that had died of starvation strewed the commons outside of the city, making the air pestilential. At the outbreak of the difficulty all who could do so escaped to Montevideo before the port was closed. Foreign diplomatic corps found they had no sine- cure office, and the homes of foreign clergymen were places of refuge. In this national crisis the plenipotentiary from the United States was the only representative of a foreign power admitted to 10' 114 LA PLATA COUNTRIES an interview with the " Department," and is said to have acquitted himself with honor. For several weeks afterwards bands of soldiers were moving about in the several Provinces, and when the " whys and wherefores" were asked, there was the universal shrug and the universal Spanish ejaculation, ''Quien sabef (who knows). Eventually all signs of disturbance passed away, and on the 1 2th of October General Roca was peacefully sworn into office. Since that time the quiet of the city has remained unbroken, and but io."^ indications of a turbulent disposition have been manifested in other parts of the Republic. The federalization of the city has taken away the root of jealousy between it and other provincial capitals, and an era of peace- ful prosperity seems at last to be insured. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 115 CHAPTER IX. THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. The most natural feeling of the average Amer- ican in visiting the Argentine RepubHc is aston- ishment. Astonishment at its extent, its resources, its ambition, its spirit of progress, and the culture that greets him in contrast with his preconceived ideas; and perhaps for the first time he begins to realize that he does not know everything. Yet the scarcity of available means of information is greater cause for surprise than his ignorance. During the early days of South American inde- pendence, there was a general enthusiasm with regard to its future, and the United States was the first nation to recognize the new republic and send a Minister Plenipotentiary to its capital. From that time until the beginning of its own civil war as close communication was maintained as was possible with only the aid of slow mails and sailing ships, and with its unquiet political Il6 LA PLATA COUNTRIES condition. Since that time American thought has been so absorbed In problems of home develop- ment that, while the children have been repeating the same geography lessons their fathers conned, — " The country consists of vast plains called pampas, on which roam thousands of sheep and cattle, which furnish the chief exports, wool, hides, and tallow," — the little sister has, unheeded, stepped boldly forward to its side. With the reconstruction or consolidation effected in 1862, a new era dawned on the Argentine Re- public, and with that event the history of the present Argentine nation begins. As now consti- tuted it comprises fourteen provinces of what was the Spanish Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, and a large extent of public lands. The provinces are : Buenos Ayres, Catamarca, Cordoba, Corrientes, Entre Rios, Jujul, Mendoza, San Juan, San Luis, Santa Fe, Salta, Santiago del Estero, RIoja, and Tucuman. Owing to the vague manner in which territorial limits were stated in original royal grants, provincial boundaries offered a fruitful subject for disputes. To avert these the plan of donating to the General Government all disputed areas was happily proposed. Each Province has its own govern- ment, modelled after those of the States of the 13 p*" ISO I I A sAir^i" ^s> ^A; '--(? //. <:/ 4 \ ^^^^'■K^^'^o^r-^&r-r-Y ^ ]{IOK ^^i/, /MKNDOZA-. I r-^ ^, , ...-'- ■ J3UEX0S y N \ ^Ay \-^.r ( & )» 30 AYRES 38.. <..^ KIO K .V r'.d;/id varies in length from three to nine inches, and in diameter from half an inch to two inches. The cost of a common article is from twenty-five cents to one dollar. But the quality, quite as much as the quantity, of the contents determines the value. The poind contains perfumed water. Every variety of perfume is discernible. It is said that poisoned poinds are used as a means of taking vengeance on an enemy, or settling an old grudge. The top being removed, and the ponio squeezed between the finger and thumb, a fine, steady stream of water is poured upon the object of attack. The chief aim is at the eye. The ear is the next mark in favor; then the neck and mouth. But no part enjoys immunity. The only way to escape being made a target is to stay close within doors and see that every crevice is closed. The custom is said to be of great antiquity, coming down from the Moors, and is a refinement on the practice formerly in vogue of deluging* with pailfuls * A close analogy may be traced between this phase of the carni- val and the Buddhist celebration of the new year, which, as practised in Laos, is thus described by Miss Emelie McSilvary : "All, espe- cially the young, give themselves up to a peculiar form of merry- making, consisting in giving every one a shower. Armed with 1-76 LA PLATA COUNTRIES of water, — a custom which is not yet altogether extinct. yntil the church lost its absolute power, utter lawlessness prevailed during the days of carnival. Whatever came into human thought might express itself in action. But now the civil power interposes some restrictions. It has prohibited the buckets of buckets of water and bamboo reeds, by which they can squirt the water some distance, these people place themselves at the doors and gates and on the streets ready to give any passer-by a drenching, marking out as special victims those who are foolish enough to wear good clothes on such a day. It is most amusing to watch them, after exhausting their supply of water, hasten to the river or well and run back, fearing the loss of one opportunity. Sometimes several tor- rents are directed to one poor individual ; then, after the drenching, shouts of laughter fill the air. On this day the king and his court, with a long retinue of slaves, go to the river. Some of the attend- ants carry silver or brass basins filled with water perfumed with some scented shrub or flower. . . . The perfumed water is then poured on the king's head, afterwards on the heads of the nobles. . . . The custom is also observed in families. A basin of water is poured on the head of the father, mother, and grandparents by the eldest son or by some respected member of the family. This ceremony has some religious significance, being symbolical of blessing and felicity. A formula of prayer accompanies the ceremony in each case." Perfumed water is also used by Buddhist women in the ceremony of " bathing the idols." " Siam and Laos as seen by our Missionaries ,'' Presbyterian Board of Publication. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 177 water and the paper douche. The latter was made by rohing a large slieet of paper, twisting the end, filling it with water, and dropping it from the house- top or balcony on the head of a passer-by. The weight and accumulated momentum gained in fall- ing inflicted a severe blow at the same moment that the bursting paper gave an inopportune bath. The many murders committed in retaliation caused the interference of the civil power. In Rosario the law forbidding the douche includes the whole city; but in Montevideo certain streets are yet legally given up to it, and whoever ventures on those streets must take the consequences. The civil power in Rosario has reached forther, forbidding the use of beans. To insure the ob- servance of this new edict, the sale or use of can- dies is prohibited. The law raised an outcry among confectioners; but soldiers stood around with bay- onets fixed and swords unsheathed. Formerly, im- mense quantities of beans were sugar-coated, in readiness for these street sports, and people pelted each other with them. They were showered from house-tops and hurled from windows. The sensa- tion produced by such pelting may be imagined. The loss of eyes and other bodily injuries were the not infrequent result. 1^3 LA PLATA COUNTRIES The municipality has also decreed that, within the bounds of its control, carnival shall on no day- begin before ten a.m. But in this it has not been so successful. The poind is uncontrollable, as are also the india-rubber water-bags. There was no service at the cathedral during the first three days of carnival. Even the usual daily mass was omitted. All the first day (the Sabbath), individuals, pairs, or companies, dressed in their peculiar uniforms, walked the streets or called on their lady friends. One noticeable uniform was that of a Spanish knight of the fourteenth century. It was made of bright green lined with white, and ornamented with white and tinsel trimmings. The street-car company had the opportunity of redeem- ing former losses. As the car passed, water was dashed in at the doors and against the windows, and those who occupied it plied their poinds on each other. As the afternoon wore away, the streets became more thronged. At eight p.m. they were crowded. At nine, bands of music started from the Government House, followed by two large fancifully decorated wagons, in which were young ladies dressed in allegorical costume, and a com- pany of young men representing the Republic. Other carriages were starting from other points, OF SOUTH AMERICA. 179 and gayly decked private carriages, with ladies in fancy dress, were rumbling through the various streets. For weeks in advance young ladies are busy making mottoes and devices not unlike book- marks, which they present to their gentlemen friends, who wear them pinned across the breast. I counted eight on a knight in green. Others had their jackets well covered with them, while some wore only one or two. This custom is probably a rem- nant of the days of chivalry, a shadow of the ghost that Cervantes laughed out of Spain. The streets which intersect the city, from north to south and from east to west, and cross each other in the heart of the business section, were brilliantly illuminated by arches of gas jets span- ning them at short intervals, by Chinese lanterns and groups of crystal lights, the effect of which was very pretty. Between the gas arches, cords crossed the streets covered with all manner of flags. Flags also floated over many houses. On these streets roofs, balconies, and pavements were densely crowded. At ten p.m. the procession passed through them. The police cleared the way at its approach, but the crowd closed around the carriages, pouring the contents of their ponios into the faces and on the bare shoulders and arms of l80 LA PLATA COUNTRIES the ladies, who tried to protect their eyes with their glass fans while they returned the poind drenching. Soon after eleven p.m. flags were drawn in, lights extinguished, and comparative quiet pre- vailed. Monday was a repetition of the Sabbath. Throughout the gayeties, red was a conspicuous color in the dress of the ladies. Yellow combined with black, and yellow without much combination, were also noticeable. The government ladies wore the national colors, blue and white. By day as well as at night, harlequins of every description paraded the streets. On Tuesday night the streets were more densely crowded than on either of the preceding evenings. Maskers of all grades and poind pedlers dodged in and out among the car- riages, the latter plying a lucrative trade. On Wednesday ashes took the place of water. Mass was said in the cathedral, but whoever ven- tured out ran the risk of having brocade or broad- cloth transformed into sackcloth. A sort of swab, or trowel, or patch of cloth, or leather dipped in ashes, or, better, in flour or chalk, from which the passer received a blow, took the place of the poind. The effect of such white patches on one's garments is extremely ludicrous. Then came a respite. Thursday, Friday, and Sat- OF SOUTH AMERICA. l8l urday business could go on, while the faithful re- cruited their energies for " the great day of the feast." On Sabbath, March 6, from early morn- ing grotesque faces paraded the streets. All day the street cars were subjected to spasmodic shower- baths. All day the pavements were wet from the poino warfare. Door- ways were crowded with women and girls engaged in it, and scuffles with their assailants were not infrequent. At dusk bells began to clang and drums to beat. Before nine o'clock the streets were thronged with vehicles of every description. At ten, soldiers cleared the way for the corzo. First came a funeral car, on which lay the figure of a human body with a sheet thrown over it. The face was bare, — a ghastly, grinning visage. On each corner of the car sat a man in black mask, with glaring eyes, holding a taper and wearing a very high hat with long crape streamer. Next after the funeral car marched the " Company of the Republic," carrying rich banners garlanded with flowers. After them came the government wagons with ladies, and next the "Company of the Country," with band, banner, and wreaths ; more carriages; the "Company of the Epoch;" carriages; the " Company of the City ;" carriages of ladies ; a company of horsemen ; clowns ; fifteen carriages ; i6 1 82 LA PLATA COUNTRIES six Open street cars, crowded inside, on the steps, and on the roof; six carriages ; another company of horsemen ; two street cars ; buffoons ; more car- riages ; charlatans ; ponio pedlers ; masqueraders. It was a grotesque minghng of the solemnity of mourning, the strains of merriment, and the triumph of justice. The "death" part of the procession en- tered the Market Square, where was a platform, which the four companies mounted with their bands of music. The platform was enclosed with festoons of gay lanterns, balloons, and the like, which, as the music continued, resolved themselves into a series of fireworks. Finally, one by one the posts became whirling firewheels, from which stars and rockets were hurled. While this was going on the companies continued dancing wildly. As the last post was extinguishing itself, amid the continuous roar of fire-crackers, bursting torpedoes, and shoot- ing rockets, the dense smoke of saltpetre and sul- phur, and drippings from flaming tar-kegs, the dancers leaped to the ground, formed in rank, and conducted the corpse, which represented Judas, to the other end of the Market Place, where was a scaffold, to which it was raised. But the tragedy was not yet complete. Judas not only hanged him- self, but "burst asunder in the midst." By the help OF SOUTH AMERICA. 183 of a torch, his representative proceeded not only to burst asunder in every part of the body, but every fissure emitted flame. Arms shot away in fire- crackers and rockets. Muscles disappeared in bright streams through his mail leggings and boots. The top of his head flew off with a loud explosion. In the continuous whirling of the body the toes shot themselves away; and, finally, when nothing remained but the boots, they became a revolving star with many-colored rays, which went out one by one. As the last ray grew dim the mourners and executioners again formed in procession and marched off to their several headquarters, where sumptuous banquets awaited them, and where, with their masked partners, they would dance till morn- ing. In like manner several private Judases were burned in different parts of the city. "Burning Judas" is not confined to the carnival ceremonies. The traitor makes himself conspicuous on many occasions. If a bonfire of Bibles is to be made, Judas lights the pile. In country places carnival is celebrated by the free use of the poind; young people going from house to house to play it upon each other. To thus signalize a friend is regarded as a mark of courtesy. The evenings are given to dancing. 1 84 ^A PLATA COUNTRIES Throughout the La Plata a fondness for py- rotechnic displays is manifested and large sums are expended on them. It matters little whether the occasion that calls out the enthusiasm of the people be religious, social, or patriotic, fireworks in some form is likely to be a part of the pro- gramme. The most lavish displays are in celebration of national independence. Two Independence Days are thus celebrated, — the 25th of May, on which independence was declared in Buenos Ayres in 1 8 10, and the 9th of July, the anniversary of the united declaration of independence made in Tucu- man in 18 16. A singular incident was related to me by creditable parties of the substitution of fire- crackers for the marriage ceremony, which illus- trates a phase of society. As a class the peons are extremely poor. In the Province of Santa Fe the priest's fee for performing the marriage ceremony is forty dollars. As there is no other legalized mode, and as not one peon out of a thousand could accumulate that amount in a lifetime, the luxury of the rite matrimonial is pretty generally dispensed with among them. There is also a considerable laxity of practice OF SOUTH AMERICA. 185 among those who would not be wiHing to be classed as peons. Among the better class a desire is manifested to see this evil remedied. As an expression of this sentiment, a wealthy cstanccro^ living some distance from Rosario, gave to a couple living on his cstancia the requisite forty dollars, and let them have horses to go to town for the purpose of being made husband and wife. They set out, much elated with the prospect. Meeting an acquaintance, they told him their good fortune, and receiving his congratulations invited him to return with them to the nearest pulpcria^ where they purchased a bunch of fire-crackers with which to celebrate the happy event, and stood around them as they snapped. In this way the journey was gladdened at each piilpcria where they rested their horses, and at each meeting of old friends, until, when the cathedral loomed before them, half of the money had vanished. They stood together before the altar to be made man and wife. The ceremony was begun in due form and the priest extended his hand for the money, when the remaining twenty dollars was put into it. " This is not enough," said the priest. " It is all we have," was the answer. 1 6* lg5 *LA PLATA COUNTRIES ** You must add another twenty dollars," de- manded the priest. ** But we have no more." The altercation grew spirited. *' I will not marry you without the forty dollars," asserted the priest. " Very well," responded the twain ; " we have lived together fourteen years without your per- mission, and we can get along without it still." So they remounted their horses, and spent the remaining twenty dollars for fire-crackers for the return ride. Another incident was laughingly related of the manner in which one of the most influential and respected of the gente decente outwitted the priest and won his bride, that illustrates a possibility connected with the marriage ceremony, — the le- gality of a marriage by proxy. Before a legal marriage can be performed, the expectant bridegroom must receive absolution from a priest. To obtain absolution presupposes confession. In the instance related, the candidate for matrimonial honors was a young man of "liberal ideas" and dauntless spirit, who resolved not to submit in any wise ^o the superstition that ar- rogated to any human being the right of spiritual OF SOUTH AMERICA. 1 8/ interference, at the same time he was determined to have his bride lawfully. The lady lived in Cordoba, where the ceremony was to be performed, but whither at that time it was impossible for the expectant Benedict to repair in person ; hence a certificate of absolution was indispensable. While his brother waited, ready mounted, he presented himself before a priest, stated his wish, and de- manded the certificate. " I cannot give it until you confess." " You must give it. Do me the favor not to make further delay." "You must confess." "This is my only confession," and a cocked- pistol was brought suggestively near to the priest's forehead. The certificate was given without further delay. The waiting horseman sped away with it, and the next day, as his brother's proxy, plighted his troth to the lady, with all due formalities, in the pres- ence of her friends, and, as speedily as the fleetest horses rendered it possible, brought her back with him to her happy husband, among whose friends also the event was appropriately celebrated and the lady received with magnificent demonstrations of welcome. J 88 ^A PLATA COUNTRIES More exhilarating than any fiesta, pyrotechnic display, or gotten-up exhibition of any kind, is a gallop over the prairies with companions who can, for the time being, abandon themselves to freedom from the perplexities of existence and inhale the elixir of life with the breath of alfalfa and thistle blossoms. On, and on, and on, over the green sward, sprinkled with scarlet clusters of wild ver- benas and geraniums and a hundred other flowers, with no bound in sight but the blue horizon, and no habitation near save the burrow of the biscacho,* at whose door the little gray owl stands sentinel, and near by dozes the proprietor in his brownish- gray fur mantle, and chews his cud till warned of approaching danger. Then his hind feet twinkle a moment in the air as he disappears into his under- ground citadel. A blue-gray bird crouching in the * The biscacho is a ruminant quadruped about a foot in length, which burrows everywhere throughout the Argentine plains. Some- times their underground galleries are several acres in extent, and make horseback riding dangerous, as the hoi^se's feet are liable to sink in the holes. With a free rein the horse, accustomed to the plains, selects safe ground for himself. The biscacho is de- structive of all kinds of vegetation. Its skin is used to a limited extent for rugs and foot-niufifs, and its flesh is sometimes eaten. It is unknown in the plains of Uruguay. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 189 grass turns his peering black eyes this way and that, then spreads his white-hned wings and skims low over the grass, screaming, " //Vvvv?, ticrraf' A scissor-bird hastens from our approach, clipping the air with its two long caudal feathers. The galera,\.\\e. primal stage-coach, rolls, and rumbles, and swings along the ruts its kindred wheels have worn in the soft loam, its eight horses, four abreast, and the " cinch Jiorse" at the wheel, kept at the gallop. Anon, a company of thatched carrctas, each drawn by a dozen bullocks, and leading one hitched behind it in case of emergency, on their way from the custom- house. On, past chacras of maize, artichoke, beans, and garlic ; past estancias^ each with its own appro- priate name, whose proprietors are affability itself. Enter any one of these homes, hut or mansion, and the utmost hospitality is extended. No host more readily recognizes the gentleman, or more promptly accords him marked courtesy. The Argentine saddle-horse is of easy gait, fleet, well trained, and capable of great endurance. After a delightful gallop of several leagues I asked the owner for how much he would sell the horse I rode. His answer was, " I cannot say that I want to part with it. It is rather a favorite with me. But if I should sell it, I could not take less than thirty dol- I go LA PLATA COUNTRIES lars." In the cities the cost of keeping a horse is such that he very soon '* eats his head off." There are several British and a few North Amer- ican estanceros within a few leagues of Rosario, whose words indicate their full conviction that this is the heart of the universe, especially for money- making. They divide their attention about equally between cattle and sheep. As there are few running streams, a water supply for their flocks and herds must be obtained by sinking wells, which some of them admit is a trifling drawback. But it is seldom necessary to dig more than thirty feet. The water is drawn in large wooden buckets with trap bottom, by a horse attached to a long sweep or chain. The windmill might relieve him, and is being introduced to a limited extent, but so long as his value does not exceed sixteen dollars, the equine millennial dawn is likely to be procrastinated. By invitation of one of these estanceros I wit- nessed the exciting sport, or business, of separating the cattle. A drove of seven or eight thousand had been corralled the night before, and after an early breakfast our party galloped over two or three leagues of prairie to the scene. Some thirty peons were already assembled. The herd was turned out of the corral and around it on the open camp. OF SOUTH AMERICA, IC)£ Mounted peons took their stations at regular dis- tances. A few, on the fleetest horses, stood near. At a signal from the manager a horseman dashed into the herd after the animal designated. Usually several, panic-stricken, made a dash for the open plain, the rider giving chase only to the one wanted. The object of the rider was always to direct the course of the animal to the part of the camp as- signed to the fat cattle. If he took that direction all was well; if not, an exciting chase ensued. Fre- quently the bovine exceeds the equine in fleetness for a considerable time, and baffles him in the rapidity and eccentricity of his turnings. Other riders join in the pursuit, and the welkin rings with the echoes of wild life. Those stationed in the outer circle check the course of the flying brute as he approaches them. When the chase fails to turn his course as desired the lasso is thrown, and one or two horsemen drag him away, or the bolas flies from the pursuer's hand and the race comes to a sudden end. Although these two methods are in constant use by the butchers, they are seldom em- ployed in separating the fat cattle from the herds. Before we returned for luncheon eight hundred cattle had been culled from the herd and re-corralled ready to be driven to an alfalfa (lucerne) field, pre- 192 LA PLATA COUNTRIES paratory to their journey to the Rosario shambles, where it was expected that fifteen dollars per head would be realized for them. The alfalfa pasture is the only ** stall-feeding" known to the Argentine ox, and is scarcely more relished than the succulent thistle that comes up and covers the ground as the spring grass dies. These thistles grow from three to five feet high. Their dry stalks are often used for fuel, as are also the dead stalks of other weeds. The stalks are gathered in bundles in their season, and laid up for future use. This is the only supply for fuel in sections of the pampas too remote from the city for charcoal pedlers, and where peach trees or other wood is not grown for the purpose. Where tim- ber is grown for fuel, the peach is preferred on account of its rapid growth. In three years after a peach plantation has been set the cutting may be- gin. A large kettle, resembling the " soap kettle" known to North American countrywomen, is often seen near to the home on the pampas, with a clicne {peoji woman) crouched beside it feeding the fire with weed stalks. At a native estaiicia I enjoyed an excellent din- ner cooked in this way. Into the kettle were put a lamb that I saw caught from the niajada with a OF SOUTH AMERICA. 103 lasso, several fowls caught in the same way by a boy of eight years, a pumpkin cut into small squares, a handful of quartered potatoes, a head of cabbage, some rice, and minor ingredients. The first course served was rice soup. Then followed a mutton stew, composed of the dissevered verte- brae, garnished with bits of boiled pumpkin and cabbage. After this, boiled leg of mutton and po- tatoes. Then fowl with rice. After which baker's bread from the city, thirty miles away, and cheese, made on the cstancia the week before, followed by sweetmeats, which closed the meal. The laiigosta, or locust, first cousin to the Kansas grasshopper, is the occasional scourge of the campo. I one day rode for nearly an hour over a troop of them, marching along in as good order as the best disciplined soldiery. A few days afterward a sim- ilar host encamped on the young peach orchard of my entertainer, and in a few hours stripped it of every green leaf. The insect has a choice of food, however; and although every peach leaf may fall a prey, and every grapevine lose its foliage, the vege- tables beside them may escape untouched. Neither do they overspread the whole country, but travel over comparatively narrow strips. When it is seen that they have destroyed the pastures in one locality, I n 17 ig4 LA PLATA COUNTRIES it is simply necessary to change the herds to an- other. The superstition that they are sacred in- sects, because a darker shade of color down the centre of the body is " crossed" by a similar shade at the shoulder, prevents any systematic means of extermination or of limiting their ravages. The ant is more universal in its depredations, and must be guarded against, alike in city and country, by gar- dener, florist, and house-keeper. Its fondness for shoe-leather is not one of its least aggravating characteristics. Among insects, the almost invis- ible bicho colarado, or "jiggar," that multiplies by millions on the grass, and the vinchiico, or ''flying bedbug, an inch long," that finds its favorite home on the paradise tree, but enters houses and hides in any crevice during the day, then makes a nocturnal raid on the sleepers, are especially annoying. Zoiida, tormcnta^ temporal^ and pampero are the euphonic and emphatic terms denoting the state of the weather, which bears the burden of human ills the world over. The zonda is the hot north wind that gives everybody the headache. Tormenta is the general name for a storm, and temporal is the summer shower. The pampero comes from the south with a wide sweep of the compass, on either OF SOUTH AMERICA. 195 land or water. On land it is the La Platean cyclone, and carries great clouds of dust gathered from tlic pampas. Occasionally clouds of thistles and thistle- down make the panipero particularly disagreeable. Hutchison describes the luckless wight caught in such a temporal as having " the appearance of hav- ing been dragged through a flour-sack or feather- bed and ducked in a horse-pond." Soon after my arrival in Rosario I had heard the mutterings of distant thunder without giving much attention, and sallied out on a prearranged purpose. Before I had walked two blocks the air was so thick with dust I could not see across the street, and I had to protect my Q.y