CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE CIRCULAR 168 DECEMBER 1950 i * ' 4> A GUIDE FOR THE CITY WORKER WHO WANTS TO LIVE IN THE COUNTRY THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA • BERKELEY ADDENDUM The statement concerning milk goats which appears on page 12 of this circular is apparently open to misinterpretation that the authors intend criticism of the Toggenburg breed. This is not the case. The sole purpose of the reference is to advise readers that Toggenbergs may have a distinctive flavored milk. X-168 THIS BOOKLET was written for the fully employed Californian who wants a home with enough land to raise some of the food for his table BUT expects little, if any, cash income from his efforts. The principles suggested can be used by the retired person who has additional time to expand a small farm as well as by the farmer who seeks a plan for his home grounds area. THE AUTHORS: Richard W. Palmer is Farm Advisor, Los Angeles County. Wallace Sullivan is Extension Economist, farm management, and Associate on the Giannini Founda- tion, Berkeley. CIRCULARS explaining in detail the various operations suggested in this booklet may be obtained by writing your local Agricultural Extension Service office or the Office of Agricultural Publications, 22 Giannini Hall, University of California, Berkeley 4, California. A catalog will be sent upon request. Life on a small farm home can OFFER you: Fresh food with a plant-ripened flavor and possibly a lower cost noo Pleasant, outdoor life — with plenty of exercise thrown in Healthful surroundings for the children and a chance to learn Life on a small farm home DEMANDS of you: A desire for working the soil by every member of the family Willingness to devote most of your leisure time to hard work Careful planning to keep within limits of your time and budget [3] The farm unit (opposite page) of this suburban home gives the owner a steady supply of fresh food. Start with a half-acre lot A small farm home can give you a satisfying way of outdoor life as well as reduce the family budget if it is carefully planned and properly managed. Thought- less buying, improper planning, or poor management can lose your investment. Many small farm owners have been un- successful because they did not realize the amount of time and work involved. Since you may be fully employed else- where, all of the work must be done in your spare time and by members of your family. It is easy, in the enthusiasm of starting a new project, to develop a larger area than can be cared for and to under- estimate the hours of work required. Little, if any, savings will be made on your food bill if you hire all the labor. In most localities an area of about a half-acre has been found an excellent size for a small farm home. This, of course, will vary with the circumstances of the individual. An acre is 43,560 square feet, so a half-acre would be a little more than 100 x 200 feet. That is about all the land that can usually be cared for in a person's spare time. A half-acre will provide space for a house, an outdoor living or recreational area, garage and tool shed, vegetable gar- den, berry patch, 10 to 20 fruit trees, and an area for a few rabbits and chickens. A smaller unit can still be satisfactory, but beware of anything larger. You will be happier with a small, well-kept farm home than with a large acreage partially neglected and overgrown with weeds. If you have more time and extra land, a half-acre to an acre of irrigated pasture can be used to feed five or six sheep or a couple of milk goats. A saddle horse, milk cow, or steer also can be kept, each on a half-acre to an acre of pasture, but addi- tional feed is necessary. In areas near cities where land values and water rates are high, large animals often cost more to keep than they are worth. Milk can usually be purchased more cheaply than it can be produced at home, and most cows produce more milk than the average family can use. The daily care required by larger animals makes it difficult to leave the farm for any period of time. Remember, the small farm home is a way of life. Be sure you want it before you start— and then don't overdo it. Satis- fying work can soon become drudgery. In selecting a farm, don't be swayed by scenery alone. The factors listed in this booklet are offered to help you in making your decision. [4] Ask yourself: "Can I afford it? 1 This is the first and most important question to be answered. Do you have enough cash to make the down payment and acquire the equipment and materials necessary for starting your small farm? If you buy on a time payment plan, is your monthly income sufficient to meet the payments and have enough left for living expenses and emergencies? Farm purchasers were once expected to have from one-third to one-half of the necessary capital before they even thought of buying. Federal credit aids have changed this philosophy considerably, but it is still advisable to have at least one-third of the total capital. A larger down payment would be better. If a small down payment is made, and monthly in- stallments are extended over a long pe- riod, the interest costs may eventually total almost as much as the original pur- chase price. A small farm home will cost about the same as or less than a home in the city. Your half-acre will cost about $1000 to $2000. Location in the state and distance from a town will affect the price. The house itself is strictly up to you. You may start modestly with a floor plan that can be expanded as you wish, or you may go all out with a swimming pool in the patio. At any rate, this investment will be no different than if you were building in the city. The additional investment necessary to start a small farm unit will run from $400 to $800. The following list will give you some idea of the capital outlay which may be needed: 1. Irrigation installations 2. Trees and vines 3. Gardening tools, equipment 4. Poultry and rabbit housing 5. Chickens and breeding does 6. Fertilizers, miscellaneous $100 to $200 $ 40 to $ 60 $ 75 to $200 $ 50 to $100 $ 40 to $ 50 $ 50 to $100 $ 50 to $100 7. Lath house (optional) Total $405 to $810 These costs will vary widely depending upon how alert the owner is in buying and in utilizing second-hand or waste ma- terial, and how much of the labor he will do himself. [5] Watch these points when looking for THE place: 1. Is it reasonably close to your job? If you work in town and must commute daily, it is important not to live too far out. Daily travel can take so much of your time and energy that you won't have enough left for your garden. 2. Are stores and schools fairly near? This is a family project, and the convenience of all members must be considered. If there are no schools or stores near by, are buses available? You may need the car for transportation to work. 3. Is the climate acceptable all the year around? Again the desires of all members of the family must be considered. Small farm life is outdoor life, and extreme heat, cold, or recurrent winds can have a bad effect on your volunteer laborers. 4. Is there an adequate water supply? Water is vital. It can limit your operations by shortages or excessive cost. If you have a source other than a public utility or company-owned ir- rigation district, be sure drinking water is safe. 5. Are other utilities available? City families take for granted electricity, gas, tele- phone service, sewage disposal, and fire protec- tion. Most suburban areas are well serviced, but be sure to check the facilities in your area. 6. Are improvements still pending? If there are no improvements such as sidewalks, storm drains, or street paving, you must expect that eventually they will cost you money. Check taxes, liens, assessments, and your property title. 7. Have flood control measures been taken? If the property you are inspecting is near a stream channel or the mouth of a canyon, check closely into the flood control and safety measures that have been taken. Do they result in adequate soil conservation? [6] 8. Are there zoning restrictions? Be sure your property is zoned to let you raise the products you desire. Some land near cities and towns is zoned to prevent the raising of animals such as cattle, horses, and sometimes even poultry or rabbits. 9. Is the soil adaptable? Good soil is important, not only on the surface, but as deep as 5 or 6 feet. You will probably not find an ideal soil, but be sure the plants you want to produce will grow on it and that you know what practices are necessary to produce on your par- ticular soil. The easiest soil to manage is a fine sandy loam 4 to 6 feet deep, evenly textured all the way down with a well-drained subsoil. Hardpan layers or subsoils of sandstone, shale, or lime near the soil surface can seriously limit the types of plants grown. Adobe or clay soil is more difficult to han- dle, but will, in most cases, produce good crops with a minimum of cultivation as long as care is taken in irrigation. Alkali salts are extremely harmful to plants, and expert advice should be sought if their presence is suspected— either in the soil or water. Most counties have complete soil surveys on file at the local farm advisor's office. These will give you an idea of the types of soil to be found in your area. In examining your own soil, a shovel, posthole digger, or auger can be used. Watch for three things : texture, depth, and layers impervi- ous to water. SHALLOW SOIL WITH HARD LAYERS NEAR THE SURFACE LIMITS ROOT GROWTH SUBSOILS OF LIME, SHALE, OR SAND- STONE ARE USUALLY IMPERVIOUS TO WATER AND ROOTS A DEEP, EVENLY TEXTURED SOIL MEANS MORE AREA FOR ROOT GROWTH NO HARD LAYERS A WELL DRAINED SUBSOIL [7] When you have found YOUR farm: 1. Learn what grows best in your area 2. Plan your farm accordingly One of the most important factors in successfully developing a small farm home is careful planning. If you don't plan correctly, you may plant too much or too little. You may involve yourself in so much work that you will never have time to complete it. You may plant the wrong varieties of trees or vegetables. The saving of time and labor should be considered before undertaking any steps in developing and managing the property. In fact, it is a good idea to de- velop a general plan of what you want even before you begin to select the actual place. Think about how you would lay it out, how much space would be allotted the different crops and where they would be located. Such a plan will help you to decide if a certain place will meet your needs. When you believe you have found the place you want, talk to residents of the neighborhood or other sources of local information. Farm advisors in the local Agricultural Extension Service office rep- resent the University of California and the United States Department of Agricul- ture and can help you with free agricul- tural information and advice. They can- not appraise land, but they can tell you what probably can be grown successfully in the area. Farm advisor offices also have pam- phlets similar to this one which explain in greater detail the steps necessary to conduct the various cultural operations on your farm. It is important to use your land as effi- ciently as possible. Notice in the suggested plan (opposite) that the half-acre is di- vided roughly into three sections: 1. The home grounds, including the rec- reational area with its outdoor grill, swings, etc. 2. The vegetable garden and berry patch. 3. The orchard. A small poultry and rabbit unit can be planned without additional land, but if you want larger livestock, additional land will be necessary. It should be remembered that some fruits and vegetables can be more eco- nomically purchased on the market. Let commercial growers raise products that are low in cost or that are difficult to raise because of climate or other factors. This sign will guide you to your local farm advisor AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL INFORMATION COUNTY OFFICE BLDG. [8] This plan for a half-acre small farm home illustrates the suggested division into three sections: home and recreational area, vegetable garden and berry patch, and the orchard. [9 Choose vegetables that will thrive in your area and prevent disappointment from poor yields. Plant your vegetables near the house Much of your time will be spent in the vegetable garden, so locate it near the house. The chart on page 18 will give you an idea of the types of vegetables grown in California, but be sure the ones you choose will thrive in your area. Condi- tions may vary widely within a few miles. Usually, seeds of standard varieties grown by local nurserymen are better adapted to your garden than those pro- duced in other parts of the United States. The vegetable garden should be divided into a section for perennials, which will remain there for a number of years, and a section for the small annuals such as beets, turnips, and radishes. Vine crops, such as melons and squash, can be grouped together. Sweet corn should be planted in square blocks to facilitate pollination. Don't plant more of any vegetable than you will need. The table on page 18 lists an approximate number of plants for each type of vegetable used by a family of four. It can be used as a guide to de- termine the area needed. Distances which should be maintained between plants and between rows (see page 18) will also de- termine how many varieties you will be able to plant. Garden troubles should be anticipated before they occur. For instance, it is a good idea to treat seed for disease con- trol before planting. Chemicals needed to disinfect seed can usually be obtained from your local nurseryman. If your garden is on a sandy to medium type of soil and there are wireworms and nematodes in your neighborhood, it is advisable to fumigate the soil before planting. These two pests constitute a major problem in growing vegetables. Carefully inspect any plants that go into your garden. Small fruits — Three or four grape- vines should give enough grapes for an average family and can be used for arbors or along border fences. Ten to 12 bush- berry vines will produce more than enough berries, and an area of 100 square feet or more can be used to plant straw- berries. [10 The orchard soil should be free of flowers and lawn to prevent competition and improper irrigation. Allow your fruit trees sufficient room An orchard of 10 to 20 fruit trees will furnish the average family with a great variety and an abundance of fruit and nuts. Twenty fruit trees will require from 8,000 to 10,000 square feet, but this amount can be reduced by using some fruit trees as ornamentals around the house. Most fruit trees, however, do not grow well in lawns and flower beds be- cause they must compete with the lawn and flowers for water and nutrients in the soil. Evergreen trees, such as citrus and avocados, should be grouped together since they require additional irrigation during dry winters and a different ferti- lizer and pest control program than de- ciduous fruit trees. Before you plant any trees, obtain a fruit variety list from the farm advisor. Varieties not adapted to a region often bear little or no fruit. Another important point is correct spacing. Planting fruit trees too close to- gether can materially reduce the amount of fruit you will receive per tree and per given area. If you have a limited space and desire a greater number of varieties of fruit, graft two or more varieties onto the same tree. To save room while serving as orna- mentals, some trees can be trained to grow flat on a trellis or espalier along a wall. Dwarf fruit trees are sometimes desired to give a greater choice of varieties. The number of varieties found on dwarf root- stock, however, is small. It is more impor- tant to have the correct variety. Purchase planting stock from a re- liable nursery. Friends may unknowingly give you trees and small plants that are infected with disease and pests, so care- fully inspect all plants that go into your garden. Choose trees that are only one year old from the time they were budded. Older trees have more top than roots and are more sluggish in growth. Try to buy rootstocks which are resistant to pests. The table on page 19 will give an idea of the approximate area needed by vari- ous types of fruit trees. [in Small animals are a good investment Rabbits and poultry are excellent meat producers for the small farm. They take a small amount of space and are less ob- jectionable than larger animals. Two does and a buck should raise enough rabbit meat for a family of 4— at least 200 pounds a year. About 5 pounds of feed produces one pound of meat. To produce an equal amount of poultry meat, it is necessary to raise about 80 baby chicks, save 20 pullets for egg production, and eat the remainder— plus the culled hens. It may require as much as 1200 pounds of feed to raise the fryers to eating size and the pullets to laying age. About 12 to 15 laying hens should pro- duce the 30 to 35 eggs which may be con- sumed per week by the average family of 4. About 600 pounds of grain and about 600 pounds of laying mash would be needed in a year. Larger animals require more time and space Some small farm homeowners, par- ticularly those with children of 4-H club age (10 to 21 years), like to raise larger animals. If you do, be prepared for vet- erinary fees and additional expenses. Goats afford a good initial experiment in this line. If a good grade and strain of milk goat, other than Toggenburg, is pur- chased and correctly fed, no difference will be noted in the flavor of the milk from that of cow's milk. Coat's milk is easily digested and is an excellent food for children. A pair of goats will not produce the excess quantities given by a cow and can be alternated to give milk the year around. Their feed requirements are only one- fourth those for one cow. If some pasture is available, an orphan lamb can be raised to about 80 or 100 pounds with a small amount of grain. One milk cow will produce about 4 to 5 times the amount of milk needed by the average family, which drinks about 3 quarts of milk a day. Surplus milk may be sold to neighbors if tested to meet health requirements. The sale of unpas- teurized milk is unlawful in some areas. Surplus milk can be fed to other farm animals. This surplus problem, plus the fact that a cow is dry 2 months of the year, often makes the possession of a cow impractical for many families. A cow must be kept in a pasture of a half-acre to an acre or in a corral with an area of about 300 square feet. The pastured cow will require an additional 2 or 3 tons of hay a year, and a pound of concentrate for each 100 pounds of animal should be added to the feed when the cow is producing in excess of 3 gal- lons of milk per day. The cow, when kept in a corral, will need about 6 tons of hay in addition to concentrate. Some hay may be replaced by garden waste. A beef animal can be raised on another % to 1 acre of pasture along with a maxi- mum of 1200 pounds each of hay and grain per year. It can be butchered at 400 to 800 pounds, 800 producing about 480 pounds of dressed meat, half of which could be used by the family and the other half sold. Access to a frozen food locker would be necessary to keep the meat. A hog weighing from 150 to 200 pounds can be raised by feeding with excess milk and garden waste plus 500 to 600 pounds of grain. This project, a popular one with 4-H club members, can be started with a 50-pound feeder pig. Some small farm homeowners may want to raise swine, others may want beef, some may prefer rabbits and poultry, and some may only want to produce fruit and vegetables. Remember, don't start more work than time or area will permit. This fact cannot be overemphasized. [12 Poultry and rabbits do not require a large amount of space and can keep a family supplied with fresh meat. About 12 to 15 laying hens can produce enough eggs for the average small farm family. A pair of goats will produce enough milk to meet the needs of the average family of four members. Most good breeds, when correctly fed, will produce milk that will taste the same as that from cows. [13] A four-gallon sprayer meets most small farm needs. Promptness is important in pest control. A push-plow is satisfactory for most cultivating, unless there is real need for the use of a tractor. Don't overbuy equipment In planning to purchase tools for your small farm home, choose equipment that will do the job as economically as pos- sible. Mechanized equipment such as a garden tractor can save time and labor only when there is a job large enough and constant enough to warrant its use. Such equipment should be purchased only after the over-all management has been care- fully analyzed and the need clearly proved. Equipment purchased otherwise should be recognized as a hobby. In addition to the general hand tools such as a shovel, rake, pruning shears, and sprinklers, there should be a good set of building tools. A considerable amount of money can often be saved by doing your own construction of the less complicated farm projects. Of the larger man-powered equipment, a lawn mower and wheelbarrow or some type of small cart should be acquired. If there is not sufficient work for a power garden tractor, you can use a push-plow or wheel hoe. Pest control equipment should consist of some type of duster and a sprayer. The most common sprayer is the four-gallon back type. A small portable power sprayer which can create pressures up to 175 pounds or more is exceedingly helpful. This more expensive sprayer is practical only when a large enough number of trees warrants its purchase. Both the size of the job and the time involved should always be considered before the purchase of large equipment. On most small farm homes, the tools and workbench will be located in the garage. If time and space permit, a small tool and lath house can be combined. A locked cabinet should be built for poison- ous spray materials. Bulbs, seeds, and fertilizers can also be stored in such a house. More equipment will undoubtedly be purchased as the farm progresses, but each addition should afford an econom- ical saving in time and money. [14] An 8-foot piece of pipe with 5 or 6 outlets can be attached to a hose to save time in irrigating. Good irrigation pays dividends In most sections of California, plants and trees need irrigating to supplement rainfall. More good or more harm can result from irrigation than from any other cultural practice. To keep the soil sup- plied with readily available moisture at all times requires a carefully planned system of furrows, basins, or sprinklers. You can easily damage your crops by not irrigating enough in the areas where the feeder roots are located, or by irrigating too much. In locating furrows in the orchard or garden, remember that water penetrates mainly downward through the soil and only a few inches sideways, so space them just far enough apart for the moisture from the furrows to meet. The area to be irrigated in the orchard is about 2 feet from the trunk to 2 or 3 feet beyond the far spread of the branches, varying, of course, with the size of the tree. This area should be covered, no matter whether furrows, sprinklers, or basins are used. Be careful to keep the trunk dry, how- ever, to prevent fungus. Be sure you irrigate to a depth sufficient to supply moisture to most of the roots. With trees and deep-rooted plants such as melons this should be from 4 to 6 feet. Shallow-rooted crops, such as radishes and onions, need only 2 to 4 feet. The best way to tell how deep the water has pene- trated after an irrigation is to sample the soil at various depths with an auger or use a metal rod and probe down. As soon as the probe touches the dry soil resist- ance will be felt. A variety of other factors, including the age and type of trees, temperature, sunlight, wind, and humidity, will deter- mine the frequency of irrigation. Sample the soil at various depths once in a while with a soil auger and see how dry it is. Compare the soil a few days after an irrigation and again when the plant starts to wilt. It is also helpful to watch the plants themselves; they may wilt a little during the heat of the day without being in danger. But if they still appear wilted at night or early the following morning, then irrigation is necessary. Learn to an- ticipate this condition. Sprinklers can often save time in ir- rigating small farm orchards. Two or more sprinklers can be in use at once when there is sufficient pressure available. For furrow irrigation an 8-foot piece of pipe with 5 or 6 outlets can be attached to a hose and save time (see photo above) . When irrigating, remember the soil can only hold so much water. If it goes down below the root zone it is wasteful— a fact which will soon show up on your water bill. [15] Fertilizing is important Most California soils are deficient only in nitrogen. This can be remedied by ap- plying materials such as ammonium sul- fate, calcium nitrate, and ammonium ni- trate. In the few places where phosphate may be lacking, materials such as treble super- phosphate or single superphosphate can be added. These materials should be ap- plied just before irrigating and in the same areas— under the trees to beyond the ends of the branches— which are irrigated. Organic materials such as manures and leaves are especially helpful in soils that have poor tilth or structure. It is not necessary to compost fresh leaves, hoed weeds, or manure before applying them directly to the soil surface. A compost pile is helpful, however, when surplus amounts of organic materials are ac- cumulated for later application. Fertilizers such as horse manure and dairy manure have low nitrogen content and if not well rotted before application will tie up the nitrogen in the soil for a period of time. Manures— especially those having less than 2 per cent nitrogen- should be applied in the late fall in order to have plenty of time for decomposition. If low-nitrogen types of manures are applied to evergreen trees or winter gar- dens where plants are actually growing, some chemical fertilizer such as am- monium sulfate should be added as a readily available form of nitrogen. Your own farm animals and various plant wastes should afford you a cheap source of organic matter. If you ob- tain some elsewhere, check the source for noxious weed seeds. Cultivation can be eliminated Soil should be cultivated only when necessary, such as in preparing a seed bed, making basins or furrows, or turn- ing under weeds. Some organic matter is always lost in the process of cultivation and should be restored through the ap- plication of crop residue, cover crops, turned-under weeds, or manure. After trees in the home orchard are ma- ture, no other crop should be planted in that area as it will compete with the trees for the available soil moisture and nu- trients. Some small farm homeowners use a system of nontillage in their orchards whereby the soil is never cultivated. Weeds are killed when they are from 1 to 3 inches high, either by hoeing or by an oil spray. The oil is most effective when the weeds are small; hoeing, too, should be done at this time. The hoe should never penetrate deeply into the soil, but should just skim over the surface. If the soil is disturbed, seeds just below the surface will germinate. The most practical type of oil to use around the small farm home is diesel. It is easy to apply in a 4-gallon sprayer. Diesel oil can be obtained at your local oil distributor. This nontillage method of orchard care can not only reduce costs, time, and labor, but also improve the soil tilth. In some cases fruit trees have shown a marked response in health. Oils sprayed on weeds in such a manner have not harmed the soil. Irrigation can still be done by per- manent furrows or, more easily, by sprinklers. Pest control — It is a good idea to keep a supply of the main chemicals used in controlling pests. If you do this, you are more apt to spray or dust the plants when the need arises. With materials such as the dormant and summer oil sprays, DDT, cryolite, snail poison, nicotine sulfate, lime-sulfur, and bordeaux, you will be prepared for most eventualities. In controlling pests on large trees, such as walnuts, it is usually easier to hire a commercial sprayer. High pressures are necessary to spray the tops of large trees, and large equipment is required. [16 Don't harvest your crops too soon One of the big advantages in growing your own food is that you can have the flavor that is found only in freshly picked fruit and vegetables. Fruit should be left as long as possible on the tree in order to have a high sugar content. Such fruits as avocados, lemons, and oranges can be stored on the tree for a period of time and picked as needed; the small loss in acidity in lemons will not be an important factor. It is helpful if the small farm home has a semi-insulated storage area for fresh fruits, vegetables, and home-canned items, as well as space for storing canned goods that are purchased in volume. A frozen food locker, either rented or home-owned, is an exceedingly useful item to have. When space and finances permit, the old-fashioned pantry is an answer to these storage problems, includ- ing a space for the frozen food locker. Selling surplus products isn't always easy The average small farm owner will have difficulty in marketing his surplus products. His main returns will be in the form of fresh fruit, vegetables, eggs, chickens, and rabbits on his table and the dry, canned, or frozen home-grown food that is stored for future use. Some owners may make from $50 to $100 a year by selling surplus products to fellow workers in the city or to a neigh- borhood store; others will trade with neighbors for commodities they do not have. Most commercial packing houses will not handle the small amounts of cit- rus or walnuts, for example, that can be raised on an acre or two. Roadside stands usually must be lo- cated on heavily traveled highways to be profitable. If a person does want to pro- duce some crop semi-commercially, he should specialize in berries, flowers, or other crops that have high market value. Producing crops on a small scale is never as economical as commercial production. Plan to live in your garden as well as work in it. Have shady spots where you can read or enter- tain your friends on a hot summer afternoon. Have an outdoor fireplace and a picnic table. Plan an area where you can hold a dance or a party. Plan to enjoy your small farm as fully as possible. 17 A GUIDE FOR PLANTING VEGETABLES Vegetable W warm-season crop cool-season crop Moderate planting for family of four apart in row wi , houf beds ARTICHOKE C 3-4 plants 48" 60" ASPARAGUS C 30-40 plants 12" 60" green 72" white BEANS (lima) W 15-25 ft. row 6" bush; 24" pole 30" BEANS (snap) W 1 5-25 ft. row 3" bush; 24" pole 30" BEETS c 10-15 ft. row 2" 24" BROCCOLI c 1 5-20 ft. row 24" 36" BRUSSELS SPROUTS c 1 5-20 ft. row 24" 36" CABBAGE c 10-15 plants 24' 36" CABBAGE (Chinese) c 10-15 ft. row 6" 30 CANTALOUPES and similar melons w 5-10 hills 48" 72" CARROTS c 20-30 ft. row 2" 24" CAULIFLOWER c 10-15 plants 24" 36" CELERIAC c 10-15 ft. row 4" 24" CELERY c 20-30 ft. row 5" 24" CHARD c 3-4 plants 12" 30" CHAYOTE w 1-2 plants 72" grow along fence CHIVES c 1 clump needs 4 sq. ft. CORN (sweet) w 20-30 ft. in 4 rows 15" 36" CUCUMBERS w 6 plants 24' 48" EGGPLANT w 4—6 plants 24" 36" ENDIVE c 10-15 ft. row 10" 24" FLORENCE FENNEL c 10-15 ft. row 4" 30" GARLIC c 1 0-20 ft. row 3" 18" KOHLRABI c 10-15 ft. row 3" 24" LEEK c 1 ft. row 2" 24" LETTUCE c 10-15 ft. row head 12"; leaf 6 24" MUSTARD c 1 ft. row 8" 24" OKRA w 10-20 ft. row 18" 36" ONIONS c 30—40 ft. row 3" 24" 18 Vegetable W = warm-season crop C = cool-season crop Moderate planting for family of four Distance apart in row Distance between rows without beds PARSLEY c 1 or 2 plants 8" 24" PARSNIPS c 10-15 ft. row 3" 24" PEAS c 30-40 ft. row 2" 36" bush 48" vine PEPPERS w 5-10 plants 24" 36" POTATOES (sweet) w 50-100 ft. row 12" 36" POTATOES (white) c 50-100 ft. row 12" 30" PUMPKINS w 1-3 plants 48" 72" RADISH c 4 ft. row 1" 18" RHUBARB c 2—3 plants 36" 48" RUTABAGAS c 10-1 5 ft. row 3" 24" SPINACH c 1 0-20 ft. row 3" 18" SQUASH (summer) w 2-4 plants 24" 48" SQUASH (winter) w 2-4 plants 48" 72" TOMATOES w 1 0-20 plants early 36" late 60 48" 48" TURNIPS c 10-1 5 ft. row 2" 24" WATERMELONS w 6 plants 60" 72" THE TABLE (above) is based on a more complete chart published in the California Agricultural Extension Service Circular 26, "Home Vegetable Gardening," by John H. MacGillivray. APPROXIMATE AREAS NEEDED BY FRUIT TREES Deciduous Feet Pecan 40x40 Cherimoya 20x20 Persimmon 18x18 Feijoa 18x18 Almond 20x20 Plum 20x20 Grapefruit 20x20 Apple 30x30 Prune 20x20 Guava Apricot 30x30 Quince 12x12 (strawberry) Hedge Figs (Brown Turkey Walnut 50x50 Lemon 20x20 and Kadota) Mission 12x12 40x40 Subtropical Feet Lime Loquat 20x20 20x20 Others 20x20 Avocado Olive 25x25 Peach 20x20 (spreading) 40x40 Orange 20x20 Pear 20x20 (upright) 20x20 Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics. College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. J. Earl Coke. Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 40m-12,'50(2292)HSC ..^drenonoPP