CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE CIRCULAR 53 JUNE, 1931 HOME FLORICULTURE IN CALIFORNIA H. M. BUTTERFIELD Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. B. H. Crocheron, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA CONTENTS PAGE Climatic divisions of California 4 The local situation 7 Garden soils 8 Irrigation and tillage 15 Equipment for home gardens 20 Seasonal aspects of the flower garden 23 Flowers and ornamentals for special uses 26 Propagation of flowering plants 40 Planting calendar for the year 51 Hints on the culture of some annual flowering plants 70 Hints on growing certain popular herbaceous perennials 87 Hints on growing some of the popular garden bulbs and roots 102 Hints on growing deciduous flowering climbers 123 Hints on growing evergreen flowering climbers 124 Hints on growing popular deciduous shrubs and trees 126 Hints on growing some of the popular evergreen shrubs and trees 139 The relation of home floriculture to landscape design 148 The development of the home flowsr garden 151 Acknowledgments 151 Index 152 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from University of California, Davis Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/homefloriculture53butt HOME FLORICULTURE IN CALIFORNIA H. M. BUTTERFIELDi Floriculture may be defined as the growing of plants for ornamental purposes, especially for flowers. This circular will deal only with the growing of flowers about the home. Special emphasis will be given to the questions which the home gardener asks, such as what flowers to select, when to plant, and how to successfully grow flowers in Cali- fornia home gardens. California has a wide variety of soils and climates, so it is not strange that home gardeners should be growing flowering plants, both hardy and subtropical, from all over the world. The possibility of adding new varieties of flowers from Africa, Australia, China, and other countries is still open to many sections of California. With such a large variety of plant material, the beginner may be at a loss to know what to select. Such a publication as this cannot cover all the flowers being grown ; only the more popular and more promising will be specifically mentioned. The reader who desires additional infor- mation should find the references listed in connection with the various flowers very helpful. There are also a few reference books dealing at length with flower growing specifically under California conditions. 2 The beginner will need to know something about the climate and soils of California. A brief discussion of these topics is therefore included. Lists of plants for special purposes and a planting calendar are given to aid him in selecting flowers and planning his work. Since there is a great similarity in the propagation of different flowering plants from seeds or from vegetative parts, one section is devoted to general methods of propagation. More specific and detailed hints on propagation, and also on selec- tion of varieties, cultivation, and care, are given for the flowers and ornamentals most important in California. In order that the reader unfamiliar with names may more readily find the type of plant in which he is interested, these hints are grouped into such classes as annuals, herbaceous perennials, flowering bulbs, deciduous shrubs and trees, and evergreen flowering climbers, according to the habit of growth of the plant concerned. The index at the back may prove help- ful in locating the discussion of a particular plant. 1 Supervisor of Correspondence Courses in Agriculture. 2 Mitchell, S. B. Gardening in California. 323 p. Doubleday Doran Co., Garden City, N. Y. 1923. Wickson, E. J. California garden flowers, shrubs, trees, and vines. 3rd. ed. 259 p. Pacific Rural Press, San Francisco, California. 1926. 4 California Agricultural Extension Service [ ClR - 53 The system of nomenclature used in this circular follows, except in a few minor details of spelling, that used in Bailey's Cyclopedia of American Horticulture and Manual of Cultivated Plants. 3 Common names are given wherever they are available and better known than the botanical name. A general discussion of plant diseases and pest control is beyond the scope of this circular. 4 However, special mention will be made of certain pests and diseases in connection with the practical hints offered on the popular flowering plants. Every gardener should be equipped with a good sprayer and should be familiar with certain spray mate- rials which are giving successful control. He should realize that there is often a proper time to apply control measures if success is to be had. Prevention may be the only method available in some cases. Pre- paredness made possible by adequate information beforehand should reduce plant disease and pest troubles to a minimum. CLIMATIC DIVISIONS OF CALIFORNIA California's mountain ranges run north and south and the warm Japan current near the coast tends to give the whole Pacific Coast rather mild winters. The summers near the coast are cool owing to the trade winds off the coast, The Sierra Nevada range reaches an elevation of over 14,000 feet, which explains why the mountainous parts of the state require hardy ornamentals; in fact the higher mountains are similar to the eastern states in many ways. The foothills of the Coast Range and inland valleys have such good air drainage and are so affected by the north and south direction of the mountain ranges that some very mild climatic conditions prevail throughout the length of the state, as evidenced by tender citrus trees in Butte, Sacramento, Sonoma, Alameda, Santa Clara, Fresno, Tulare, and the eight south- ernmost counties making up what is called southern California. In general the winters of California are comparatively mild in the thickly inhabited sections. Most districts are free from excessive sum- s Bailey, L. H. Cyclopedia of American horticulture. 3 vol. 3639 p. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1928. Manual of cultivated plants. 851 p. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1924. 4 The following publications may be of interest in connection with plant diseases and pest control: Home, W. T., E. O. Essig, and W. B. Herms. Plant disease and pest control. California Agr. Exp. Sta. Cir. 265:1-144. 1930. Weigel, C. A. Insect enemies of the flower garden. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1495:1-54. 1926. Weigel, C. A. Insects injurious to ornamental greenhouse plants. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1362:1-80. 1924. 1931] Home Floriculture in California mer heat. Irrigation water is available in nearly all parts of the state, so drouth is not usually a serious factor. The summers are typically rainless and the nights cool. The rainy season comes mostly between September and April. These climatic conditions along with fertile soil make it possible to grow many tender plants, some of which demand a rest during the summer. Most of the Cape bulbs from South Africa prefer dry summers. But other plants like the rhododen- drons, azaleas, and Holland bulbs do best in deep, fertile, well- drained soils, such as are found in the north coastal area, where the Fig. 1. — The hothouse calceolaria is an excellent flower for the home gardener with the proper equipment. Shrubby species are hardy outside in parts of Cali- fornia. (Photograph by courtesy of Western Homes and Gardens.) rainfall is heavy and the plants are supplied with plenty of moisture throughout the year. The gardener in Humboldt County might spe- cialize in growing true lilies, Holland bulbs, and rhododendrons, while the gardener in San Diego County might find the mild weather and dry summer best adapted to the Cape bulbs or other plants like Iris susiana which need a summer rest. Temperatures are in part associated with the amount of sunshine present. A mean annual temperature of 55° Fahrenheit along the coast in central California is not injurious to plants like the shrubby calceolarias (fig. 1), the English holly, many ferns, and camellias, but 6 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 there is a large group of ornamentals that need more heat to do well. More sun and heat during the summer will be needed by such plants as: crape myrtle {Lag erst remia) , poinsettia, Transvaal daisy (Ger- bera), jacaranda, camphor tree, orange tree, Cocos palm, tropical water lilies, and zinnias. Light, as well as heat, will be needed in some cases, as studies on light and shade requirements have demonstrated. When studying the various climatic divisions of California it will be well to hold these limitations in mind. Subtropical Area. — This includes the coast section of California from Santa Cruz south to the southern border of the state and inland through all of the citrus belt. The citrus districts in central and northern California will be included, except when considering the very tender subtropical plants, especially those which are injured by a very hot sun or a very dry atmosphere, also excepting those sub- tropicals which require an abundance of winter heat. In these special cases a more careful selection should be made within this general area to meet the individual plant requirements. The cool subtropicals will be limited to the coastal districts where the air is not too dry. Those subtropicals which require a large amount of heat during the growing season will be best adapted to the frost-free foothill districts back from the coast. North Coast Area. — This area includes that part of the state west of the Coast Range from Santa Cruz to Oregon, often known as the Redwood Belt. The summers are dry with frequent fogs. Winter rainfall is heavy. Winter temperatures are down to freezing or a few degrees below except near the coast and bays. The true lilies, Holland bulbs, azaleas and rhododendrons, hardy perennials, and moisture- loving plants are at their best here. Interior Valley Area. — This area includes the major portion of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys, excepting the part affected by the San Francisco Bay and adjacent bodies of water ; citrus areas are also excluded. The winters seldom reach lower than 22° to 24° Fahrenheit. Rainfall ranges from about 10 to 20 inches. This area is suited to hardy annuals and perennials which tolerate summer temperatures of 90° to 110° Fahrenheit, such as columbines, chrysan- themums, sunflowers, zinnias, irises, and many of the Cape bulbs ; also cannas, oleanders, and various drouth-resistant plants mentioned on page 36. Desert Area. — This area contains all of the inland sections di- rectly affected by the Mojave and Death Valley deserts. The Coaehella and Imperial valleys will come mostly in this district. The name should 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 7 not lead anyone to think that the gardens are limited to a desert flora. Irrigation water is available in many parts of the area. On the other hand, water will be a limiting factor for most cultivated ornamentals. Some of the drouth-resistant plants that come from Australia and Africa should be considered in planting lists. The athel (Tamarix artieulata) is a good example of a tree that has succeeded in this section. Sunflowers, gaillardias, heleniums, irises, and other flowering plants which bloom early, before the hot summer weather comes on, will usually do well. Mountain Area. — This portion of California contains all of the higher mountain areas where the winters are accompanied by snow and freezing weather and usually by late spring frosts. The alpine plants (see p. 37) should find a home here, and in addition the hardier plants like the lilac, which are popular in the East. Nearly all the annuals, hardy perennials, and deciduous shrubs should be considered. Tulips have done well in places, and peonies might be tried. Those plants which need a distinct rest period, such as the common lilac, and possibly the flowering peach, should be at home in this area. THE LOCAL SITUATION In addition to the variation in climatic divisions of California there will be some variation within each of the divisions and more particu- larly within a single locality or in a single garden. The local situation has more to do with the success of the home garden than any of the more general conditions which have been discussed. There is often a wide range in sunlight, temperature, air currents, and possibly moisture in the same garden. The success of certain plants will depend on selecting a suitable location or a suitable exposure. A rose that mildews badly when planted against a shady wall may be relatively free from such trouble when planted in the open part of the garden. Conditions within a garden rarely remain stationary. Trees and shrubs increase in size and the number of such plants may also be increased from time to time, thus affecting the surrounding flowering plants. Buildings are sometimes added which also affect the local exposure of the plants. Local differences in exposure to salt air, winds, or frost affect the success of the garden. An unfavorable situation or exposure can often be gradually modified ; a windy exposure, for example, can be modified by planting windbreaks which will give the desired protection. In the beginning it may be important to select plants that will tolerate the unfavorable situation. Rosa rugosa and Lavatera assurgentiflora 8 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 (tree mallow) are known to resist salty air. Echeveria and Dudleya species grow on sea cliffs swept by strong" winds. Several of the ice plants (species of Mesembryanthemum) have been used to cover hot sunny banks where moisture conditions were variable. The Australian tea tree (Lepstospermum levigatum) and the athel (Tamarix arti- CAilata) have been used to bind blow sands. These two plants are also resistant to alkali. Planting lists for special environments will be found on pages 35 to 38. Nursery catalogues should also be consulted as to sensitiveness of the subtropical plants to frost. Some of the recently introduced subtropical flowering shrubs and trees will not only be limited as to winter temperatures but they may require a large amount of heat during the growing season as well. Such plants will do well in many of the frost-free areas of southern California as far north as Santa Barbara but only occasionally in the gardens farther north, because there are few spots that have a combination of high winter temperature and a large number of heat units during the growing season. Gardeners may need to test out their local situation to see how well adapted it is for these tender plants. GARDEN SOILS Classes of Garden Soils. — California garden soils range from heavy sand and gravelly loams to the stiff clay soils. Most sandy loams and light clay loams work easily, retain their moisture fairly well, yet are well drained at all times. The loam soils generally need some fertiliz- ing and the sandy soils are generally very deficient in organic matter. The very heavy clay soils not only are hard to cultivate but the period during which they can be cultivated satisfactorily is also normally limited. The term ' adobe ' is often used to mean a heavy clay soil that is difficult to work and cracks badly on drying but it is really not a term describing a particular soil type, but rather covers a condition that may occur with any of several soil types. A sandy loam that cracks badly on drying is called a sandy adobe loam. Alkali Soils. — Parts of California are troubled with excessive amounts of alkali salts in the soil. These alkali salts may accumulate because of poor drainage and evaporation of soil moisture from the surface, or the irrigation water may contain considerable amounts of the salts. These various salts are mostly compounds of sodium. Sodium carbonate is called 'black alkali' and the other sodium salts such as sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, and sodium nitrate are called ' white alkali'. In regions with much rainfall these salts are carried away in the drainage, but in very dry climates there is a tendency for the 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 9 alkali to accumulate. The addition of sodium salts or the accumulation of sodium salts about the feeding roots causes great damage and may prevent growth entirely. Any home gardener who is troubled with alkali should first en- deavor to reclaim the soil by installing good drainage and leaching out the excess salts ; 5 this method is successful with white alkali. Where black alkali is serious, as in parts of the California inland valleys, the first step is to provide good drainage; then fine sulfur at the rate of about 1,000 pounds per acre is added, and the soil leached thoroughly. Gypsum helps some, and for certain kinds of black alkali drainage and leaching alone may in time prove sufficient, though sulfur in some form is normally desirable in California, before leaching. There will be certain alkali-tolerant plants that can be used while the alkali is still in some excess. Gazania, Helianthus (sunflower), Lavatera (tree mallow), Mesembryanthemum (ice plant), and Portulaca among the herbaceous plants, and such trees as Acacias, Acer (maple), Albizzia, Camphora (camphor), Casuarina (she-oak), Eucalyptus rostraia, Koelreuteria, Leptospermum (Australian tea), Melaleuca (honey- myrtle), Plat anus (sycamore), Quercus lobata (valley oak), Robinia pseud-acacia (yellow locust), Ulmus (elm), and Washingtonia filifera (Washington fan palm) are examples of plants which might be con- sidered for their alkali resistance. Many other plants might be added after careful testing. The Fertility of Garden Soils. — Plants require certain elements for growth and the support of life. From the air come oxygen and carbon (in the form of carbon dioxide) taken in through the breathing pores on the leaves and green stems. Even the roots require a certain amount of air in order to function. The plant gets its moisture from the soil and in this moisture are dissolved the compounds of various elements. Plant tissues contain large amounts of water, often over 90 per cent. From the solution about the soil particles in which the feeding roots find their way come many necessary food elements, chief of which are : nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, iron, and sulfur. Several other elements are needed in very small amounts. While nitrogen exists in the air it is not in a form that can be used by plants. Only the nitrate form can be assimilated directly. Small soil organisms have the ability to transform air and soil nitrogen into the form available for plant use. These organisms are involved in the process of decay which changes the nitrogen of organic matter to a form which the plants can assimilate. eHibbard, P. L. Alkali soil. California Agr. Exp. Sta. Oir. 292:1-14. 1925. 10 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 The soil nutrients must be in a soluble form in order to be available for plant use. A plant cannot take up a needed element from an in- soluble compound unless the other part of the compound can recom- bine. A nitrogenous fertilizer added to a garden soil will usually recombine in such a way with compounds already present as to render potassium nitrate available in the soil solution. In a similar way other elements form useful compounds in the soil solution. Any condition within the soil that prevents this desirable combination of elements will interfere with plant growth. The growth of a plant as a whole is in proportion to the element present in least adequate amount. Organic matter in the soil is exceedingly valuable in rendering available elements already in the soil and also in giving the soil a good light texture so that cultivation is easy and the water can penetrate readily to the feeding roots. Aeration is much better in a loose soil. The organic matter also helps in the retention of soil moisture. Only a very brief discussion of the special uses of the different soil nutrients is justified here. G Nitrogen is very important in all proto- plasm (the essential substance of all living cells) and in the develop- ment of new growth. It is the element most likely to be deficient in the soil. Next in order of importance are potassium and phosphorus. Potassium gives strength and aids healthy growth. Phosphorus is found in proteins along with sulfur. Phosphorus aids in root growth, in the development of blossoms, and in the maturity of seeds. Calcium is used in roots and indirectly has an important effect on the normal green color in leaves through certain reactions within the soil solution. Calcium (as in lime) favors beneficial bacterial growth within the soil and is important in healthy root growth. Iron and magnesium are important in the formation of the green chlorophyll in the leaves and stems. Chlorine, zinc, iodine, and still other elements are needed in small quantities for continued health. Soils with abnormal amounts of these various elements give poor growth or no growth at all. Plant life and growth depends on having the right amounts of all the needed elements. None can be omitted, even though only a small amount may be needed. The average fertile soil has such an abundance of most soil nutrients that a deficiency is unlikely with the exception of nitro- gen, and occasionally potassium and phosphorus. Some soils may have excessive amounts of the alkali salts, as already mentioned, and some have too much lime for healthy growth. A great excess of nitrogen is 6 See also: Hoagland, D. R. Fertilizer problems and analysis of soils in California. California Agr. Exp. Sta. Cir. 317:1-16. 1930. References which may be found in public libraries go into more detail for those who may be in- terested. 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 11 about as bad as a deficiency; fertilizing therefore has to be carried on with good judgment. A great surplus of nitrogen favors excessive vegetative growth which may be unfruitful and weak. The use of the soil nutrients depends on a good root system and a good top. Since carbohydrates (starches) are only formed in the green leaves in the presence of sunlight by a process known as photo- synthesis, it is very important to have a large and healthy leaf surface exposed to plenty of sunlight. The presence of plant diseases and insects or any interference with the normal amount of sunlight will upset plant growth. The amount of light needed will depend on the particular plant. Plants may be classified according to the amount of sun or shade preferred, as well as the amount of moisture required. (See lists on page 35.) Plants that have an inadequate moisture supply cannot secure the right amount of soil nutrients even though these nutrients be present in the soil. Nitrogen is obtained from the soil by the roots, but other compounds of nitrogen known as proteins are largely formed in the young leaves or growing parts of the plant. From what has been said it will be seen that there is an interde- pendence between the soil, soil moisture, roots, stem, leaves, air, and sunlight. For the best growth all these different factors must be favorable. Trouble in any one will affect the growth of the whole plant. Kinds of Fertilizers. — Any material which adds to the available plant food in the soil is called a fertilizer. There are several classes of fertilizers. The two large groups are the organic plant foods and the chemical or inorganic plant foods. Organic plant foods come from an organic source. Some contain only nitrogen, others chiefly nitrogen and phosphorus, others nitrogen and potassium, and a fourth group all three of the important plant foods, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The chemical plant foods are also divided into several classes: those containing nitrogen only, those containing phosphorus only, those containing potassium only, those containing nitrogen and phos- phorus, one containing nitrogen and potassium, and a final group with phosphorus and potassium. These various chemical elements used by plants may be compounded to supply any composition desired. Table 1 shows the average range in composition of common plant foods. The Use of Fertilizers. — The regular use of certain fertilizers in the home garden is one of the essentials of success. However, when planning a fertilizer program for flowers and ornamentals, it is im- portant not to forget that irrigation, cultivation, pest control, rota- tion of crops, and other factors may have just as much to do with 12 California Agricultural Extension Service [ ClR - 53 success as the plant foods added. Furthermore, it does not pay to go to great expense for fertilizers unless these fertilizers really give very measurable results. Much of the fertilizer added may be a waste of money if the other factors are not favorable or if the soil is not really deficient in the elements added. Barnyard manure is often the most popular fertilizer in home gardens because it supplies all three elements that are likely to be deficient. In addition, the organic matter is valuable for the physical condition of the soil. If only nitrogen is needed to favor the growth and better color, then one of the chemical fertilizers with a high nitrogen content might be the best investment. The actual cost of each pound of the desired plant food should be the basis for deciding which kind of fertilizer to buy for a given purpose. If the lawn needs a little nitro- gen then the commercial fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate with about 20 per cent nitrogen, may be the cheapest source of the needed nitrogen. On the other hand, if organic matter is needed to lighten the soil and also supply the elements likely to be deficient, barnyard manures, compost, or green manure plants, where they can be used should be considered. In unusual soils, potash and phosphorus may be deficient. Soil Acidity and Alkalinity. — The vast majority of garden plants do well when the soil is about neutral, that is, neither very alkaline or acid. Little or no concern need be felt for most plants in the average loam soils. Soils that are too acid may be neutralized with lime, those that are too alkaline with commercial aluminum sulfate or sulfur. Some plants, like delphiniums and clematis, for example, may thrive best with a high percentage of lime in the soil, and it may be necessary to add lime. Some plants need an acid soil — for example, many of the conifers, the true lilies, rhododendrons, azaleas, meconop- sis (Chinese blue poppy), members of the heather family, and most bog plants. Soil Mulches. — In some cases an inert material like German peat or Delta peat may be added to lighten the soil and possibly give a slightly acid reaction. Such plants as azaleas and rhododendrons thrive best with such treatment. In an arid climate a mulch of peat or leaf mold is often helpful in maintaining surface moisture about the roots of such plants as herbaceous peonies, lilies, and pansies. Neither peat nor the mulches should be considered an important source of plant food, for they are generally very low in it. 7 Any fer- tilizer needed should be added to the mulch or peat. 7 Burd, John S. Peat as a manure substitute. California Agr. Exp. Sta. Cir. 203:1-10. 1918. (Out of print). 1931] Home Floriculture in California 13 TABLE 1 The Composition of Fertilizers * Fertilizer Nitrogen (N)t per cent Phosphoric acid (P2O5) per cent Potash (K 2 0) per cent Total plant food per cent Organic plant foods Nitrogen only, or chiefly nitrogen Dried blood Garbage tankage Peat or muck Chiefly nitrogen and phosphorus Tankage Bone meal (raw) Bone meal (steamed) Fish scrap Peruvian guano Chiefly nitrogen and potassium Tobacco stems Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium Horse manure (rotted) Cow manure (in yard without litter). Sheep manure (dried) Hen manure (dried) Goat manure (dried) Leaves (composted) Rabbit manure 0-13 0-10 8- 4 0-10 0- 4 0- 3 5 0-11 0-10 1.5- 0.8 0.3 5- 2 0- 2 3- 2 8 2 4.0-14 8 0-20 1 . 0-25 6 0-12 8 0-14 0.6 0.3 1.0- 14 4- 2.2 14- 1.5 2- 3 1.3 12.0-13.0 2.0-10 0.8- 4.0 10.0-24.0 21.0-24 24.0-28.5 14.0-23.0 14.0-24.0 4 0- 9 1.3- 0.5- 1.9- 3- 4 1 2 8 1.1 2.9 4 2 5.5-12.5 6.3 5.3 6.9 1.5 5 Chemical plant foods Nitrogen only Calcium nitrate Ammonium nitrate Nitrate of soda Sulfate of ammonia Cyanimid Urea Phosphorus only Superphosphate Acid phosphate (Florida) Raw phosphate rock Potassium only Kainit Kelp ash Muriate of potash (KC1)... Sulfate of potash Carbonate of potash Nitrogen and phosphorus Bone black Ammonium phosphate Nitrogen and potassium Nitrate of potash Phosphorus and potassium Wood ashes 15.5 35.0 15 6 20 0-205 20.5-24.7 8- 1.6 10.5-16.5 12.0-14.0 19.0-20.0 14.0-17.0 32.0-37.0 32 0-35.0 20 0-47.0 15- 2.0 12 0-13.0 15.0-30.0 50.5 48.0-50.0 15 0-50 44.0-46.0 3 0- 7.0 15.5 35 15.6 20 0-20.5 20.5-24.7 46.6 19.0-20.0 14.0-17.0 32 0-37.0 12.0-13.0 15.0-30.0 505 48.0-50.0 15.0-50.0 32.8-36.6 30 5-63.5 56 0-60.0 4.5- 9.0 * Data from various sources but mostly from Division of Plant Nutrition, College of Agriculture, University of California. t Nitrogen is listed in percentage of nitrogen rather than ammonia, the phosphorus is listed in per cent phosphoric acid, and the potassium as potassium oxide. The total plant food percentage is secured by adding the nitrogen to the phosphoric acid and potassium oxide percentages. The reader will note that the total plant food does not represent the per cent of the three elements, however the above total is often used and does indicate the total fertilizer values to a limited extent. 14 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 Availability of Fertilizers and Plant Needs. — Most of the bulky organic manures only become available for plant use after rotting in the soil for several weeks when moisture, air, and temperature condi- tions within the soil are favorable. Such fertilizers should be added soon enough for the plant foods present to become available when the plant is in greatest need of them. For plants like the dahlia and the chrysanthemum the manures may be applied when the first buds appear, so that the nitrogen will be available when the blooms are out. But there are many of the chemical fertilizers and a few of the organic manures — sheep manure, chicken manure, and blood meal — that become available for plant use very shortly after adding. With these, top dressings may be given during the active growing season to force flowers such as the chrysanthemum, or to produce quick growth and good color in a short time, as on lawns and many of the greenhouse plants. Ornamentals on rather poor or infertile soil will often respond quickly if given these concentrated manures and fer- tilizers. A chrysanthemum is benefited by a dressing of fish meal, a bent grass lawn by one of ammonium sulfate, and ferns by some quickly available form of nitrogen. But these concentrated fertilizers must be used sparingly; for an excess is worse than no fertilizer at all. An excess of fertilizer or water tends to kill the roots and ends in decay, whereas drouth and a deficiency of plant food may only cause the plant roots to go dormant temporarily. The rotted roots will not come to life again but the dormant roots will when proper growing conditions are restored. Particular care is needed with potted plants, especially ferns and cyclamens. A laboratory soil analysis does not reveal the availability of plant foods in any particular soil. Its chief service is in disclosing such unusual conditions as high alkalinity or marked deficiency of phos- phorus and potassium. The plant itself is the index to the value of a fertilizer ; field tests are now generally relied upon to show local fer- tilizer requirements. As a basis for trial, the following suggestions may be helpful: barnyard manure (well rotted) may be added at the rate of 2 pounds to the square foot of soil surface for plants like roses ; or 1 or 2 forkfuls to plants like dahlias. Other organic fertilizers may be substituted when more economical. Potted plants that are being forced may be given liquid manure once a week or possibly a small amount each time the plants are watered, during the period between the appearance of buds and the time of full color. New growth always draws heavily on nitrogen and other important plant foods. 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 15 It will be seen that the condition of the plant, the amount of soil moisture present, and the time the nutrients in the fertilizer become available all affect the fertilizer program. As a rule no fertilizer should ever be added to the soil except when the soil is moist. Burning is very severe when a strong fertilizer comes in contact with the roots of a sensitive plant in dry soil. The time when the plant will be in need of certain fertilizers should be anticipated. Then the fertilizers may be added long enough ahead so that they will become available at the proper time. Barnyard manure and bone meal will require several weeks for complete decomposition. In no case should the fer- tilizer be applied to the planting hole next to the roots. A newly set plant cannot absorb much plant food until the roots have become established, and that w T ill take several days even under favorable con- ditions. Young tender roots might be destroyed where manure was present at this stage of development. In very sandy soils fertilizing a plant like the dahlia with bone meal and even barnyard manure, placing the fertilizer several inches below the roots, may do no harm, but in a heavy clay loam such a practice would be very dangerous. Fertilizing should be done in such a way as not to upset the balance between top and root growth and the various elements taken in through these plant parts. Further experiments with ornamentals are being conducted to determine just when the greatest need for soil nutrients may come. Doubtless the need will vary with the kind of plant and the use to which it is put. Preparing Liquid Manure. — Liquid manure is readily made by placing a sack of good barnyard manure in a barrel of water and then drawing off the manure extract as long as it has a dark color; more water may be added as the extract is withdrawn. Again, chemi- cal fertilizers like sodium nitrate may be used, dissolving them in water at the rate of about 1 ounce to 3 gallons of water. Dried blood contains slightly less nitrogen and is more slowly available for plant use ; therefore a little more may be added to the same volume of water. Blood meal is very soluble in water. Any of the commercial fertilizers which become 'fixed' when added in dilute form to the soil are not suitable for use as liquid manures. IRRIGATION AND TILLAGE Methods of Irrigation. — Since California gardens are so dependent on irrigation, it is well to consider very carefully an efficient and economical system. Galvanized pipes, either % inch or % inch, ac- 16 California Agricultural Extension Service [Oir. 53 cording to the available water pressure, are in greatest use for con- veying the water. The outlets should permit the connecting of a hose, or else heads should be attached for overhead sprinkling. In rural districts flooding of the home flower garden may be practiced, but even there a good pipe system is to be preferred. Whether the watering will be done by hose or by overhead sprink- ling will depend on the original capital available, the pressure of water present, and the kind of plants being grown. Small seedlings can be watered very satisfactorily with a sprinkling can. Lawns are most easily watered with an automatic sprinkling system. Border plants in the garden are usually sprinkled with a hose, though overhead sprinkling can be used for some kinds of plants. Many plants, like the dahlia and chrysanthemum, do not seem to be injured by overhead sprinkling at any time in ordinary weather. Small plants in closely planted borders can usually be watered best by a gentle mist spray with a hose or overhead sprinkling system. Plants very subject to mildew or plants troubled by rust, such as the hollyhock, ought not to have the foliage remain wet over night ; therefore water should be applied early enough in the afternoon to permit drying off before night or else in the morning before the sun is hot enough to scald. Plants like the snapdragon and hollyhock are best watered in basins so that the foliage is not wet. One of the big advantages of watering in basins is that the total amount of water used can be fairly accurately determined, and therefore the plant is not likely to be slighted. The watering of dahlias in basins is very practical, although hosing off the tops once a week helps in the control of pests. Top hosing of chrysanthemums is very beneficial in producing healthy, large leaves. Seedling plants in flats can be set in a shallow tub of water or gently sprinkled with a fine mist spray from a watering can. Subirrigation is not common in California. Tender flowers are usually injured by watering in the heat of the day. Amount of Irrigation. — The water requirement of a plant is very largely dependent upon the leaf surface, the dryness of the air, and the extent of the feeding root system. Plants with a large leaf surface naturally lose more moisture by evaporation than plants with a small leaf surface. The same plant will lose more moisture by evaporation in dry, windy weather than in cool weather with a cloudy sky. A plant just set out cannot take up much water until the feeding roots become established, so part of the leaves are removed or the plant shaded carefully at first. Some kinds of plants seem to have a very spreading root system and are therefore able to take more moisture from a given soil than other plants which less completely cover the soil mass with 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 17 feeding roots. These plants are often called drouth resistant, although plants may be drouth resistant for other reasons, such as good moisture storage facilities within the plant parts. However, the soil type has little or nothing to do with the amount of water required or used by a plant. Modern irrigation specialists state that the water stays in a soil until it is used up by plants. Evaporation from the soil surface by capillarity is unimportant 8 except where the water table is close to the surface ; the top 2 or 3 inches of soil dries by evaporation. At- tempts to conserve soil moisture about plants by means of cultivation is so much waste effort except as the cultivation kills weeds that are wasting moisture or the soil is loosened so that water can better reach the feeding roots. Cultivation is often overdone as far as the moisture requirements of plants are concerned. Certain general rules may be used in estimating the amount of water required for some plants, but these rules are only partial guides. An acre of lawn uses from 4,250 to 5,600 gallons of water daily in San Francisco during the months of May to August, inclusive; in later months the water used falls off to 1,700 gallons or less. 9 At Bakersfield, where the weather is much hotter, as many as 50 gallons per square foot or an average of 6,000 gallons per acre per day may be necessary. Watering may be needed almost every day for shallow-rooted plants growing where the weather is rather dry. Plants like the dahlia, may do best with watering twice a week even in a cool climate. The gardener should watch the plant carefully to see how it responds to weather and soil moisture conditions. The plant should not be per- mitted to wilt badly or permanently ; any wilting that may occur during the day in hot weather should be reduced to a harmless minimum. Nothing can take the place of careful observation and practical experi- ence in determining just when a particular plant should be watered. The soil should be wet down to the full depth of the feeding roots but should not be kept saturated. Instead the soil moisture may safely vary from the point of saturation (full holding capacity) to the point where the plant wilts (permanent wilting point). Of course more water should be applied before the wilting point is actually reached. This takes some experience. In time a gardener learns how plants respond in his particular home garden. A dry desert wind would require more frequent watering, especially if the plants were shallow- rooted. Very shallow-rooted plants may be protected against serious injury in dry weather by mulching the surface with leaf mold or s See ' ' Transpiration losses. ' ' California Agr. Exp. Sta. Ann. Rep. 1921-20: 105. 1922. 9 Data from letter by J. B. Brown, Extension Specialist in Irrigation, on file in office of Irrigation Investigations, California Agricultural Experiment Station, 18 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 similar material so that more water is retained about the feeding roots in the top 3 or 4 inches of soil. The mulch does not save moisture lower down. Shading and regulation of ventilation are commonly practiced, as in lath-houses and greenhouses. Close planting will help in some cases. Plenty of organic matter in the soil helps to increase the water-holding capacity. A failure to wet the whole soil mass about the feeding roots will seriously affect the plant in times of moisture stress. In very hot weather or dry weather it may happen that the plant uses water faster than the roots can take it up. Temporary wilting then occurs, and if the deficiency is kept up very long the surface tissues may be injured and the plant sunburned ; if the perma- nent wilting point is reached the plant may actually die. Certain plants are so constituted that they recover very slowly, if at all, after serious wilting. Many of the conifers, Pimelea, and young seed- lings are examples. On the other hand the succulents are able to survive when badly abused. If there are to be serious moisture stresses, then plants known to be drouth-resistant should be selected (see page 36). The drouth-resistant trees do very well if they can be watered a little at the start. Many of the Australian shrubs are known to be drouth resistant — the Leptospermums and Melaleucas, for example. Tillage and Cultivation. — Garden soils should be forked over or spaded occasionally to keep them loose and to incorporate organic matter and fertilizers. Compact soils are not well aerated and do not take moisture readily. The soil should be worked only enough to satisfy the needs of the particular plants being grown. Some plants in fairly loose soil may do well with little or no cultivation, as the daphne, the rhododendron and azalea, many of the berried shrubs, and a large majority of the wild flowers. Commercial crops often require cultiva- tion when the same crops grown in the home garden can be watched and cared for in such a way that very little cultivation will suffice. Green manure crops rarely fit into the planting program of the home garden ; turning under such crops is not as practical as in commercial plantings. The edges of the plantings in home gardens should be kept trim and enough cultivation given to maintain the healthy appearance of the foliage, but excessive cultivation is good neither in theory nor practice. In very shallow soils deep tillage may do more harm than good. If the soil is to be gradually improved then cultiva- tion and tillage can be increased in depth from year to year so that in time the soil will be loose and fertile to a considerable depth. Certain kinds of plants like the sweet pea. do well only when the soil is well prepared to a great depth, but it would be a mistake to attempt 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 19 such deep preparation if the soil were very shallow and would fail to give good growth later on. Many California soils are heavy clay in nature and some are also adobe. Such soils are usually hard to manage. There is often a period of two or three days during which the soil can be easily cultivated without leaving clods. If tilled while too wet the soil particles are mashed together or become 'puddled'. If tilled while too dry, the soil remains rather lumpy. If there are many clods in the soil, they should be broken up after they have been left exposed to the air for a few days and sprinkled occasionally. In no case should the heavy soil be worked when it is very wet because it will not only be made harder to work later on but also it will take water very poorly. The addition of organic matter, and for some plants lime, will gradually improve the physical condition. Sand is practically worthless for loosening these heavy soils. Coal screenings are light and seem to help longer. Peat is also good as a soil lightener. Sandy soils are naturally loose and may be improved by binding the soil particles together in some way. Barnyard manure, lime, and heavier soil may be used. Blow sands can be bound by using special sand grasses and windbreaks to check the wind velocity. After the sand movement has been stopped, many kinds of plants can be started, as in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco. All of this work takes time, but the persistent home gardener can really work wonders, especially when he has the cooperation of his neighbors in a well- worked-out district program. An attempt to drain land or check strong winds will seldom be justified except when all work together and share expenses for permanent improvement. Improvement cannot be permanent or economical when such troubles are widespread within a district and only a few attempt reclamation. Tillage is not to be considered a very satisfactory method for kill- ing out persistent weeds like morning-glory, though it may help. Where a gardener has small patches of persistent weeds it is best to dig out the roots piece by piece or else use one of the efficient weed eradicators now on the market. These weed killers usually contain sodium chlorate or one of the arsenicals. They are expensive and should only be used after other attempts for weed control have failed. Cultivation will be worth more in the end in keeping weeds from becoming established in the garden than all of the chemical weed killers combined. Prevention is cheaper than cure. But after dande- lions, red oxalis, or morning-glory have once become established over a large part of a garden some rather drastic and perhaps expensive method of control may be required. 20 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir, 53 EQUIPMENT FOR HOME GARDENS Equipment for raising flowers in the small home garden includes a hoe, rake, spading fork, shovel or spade, slender garden trowel for planting (preferably one with a wooden handle rather than cold metal), garden hose with good nozzle, hand pruning shears (Rieser pattern preferably), lopping shears for hedgesi, good pocket or budding knife, and wheelbarrow. Seed flats, seed pans, and pots will be needed for seedling ornamentals, and a sprinkling can with assorted nozzles to water small plants being propagated. Equipment for Propagating Plants 10 . — About the minimum propa- gation equipment for the average home gardener is a glass-covered box filled with coarse sand (No. 4). With such a box most of the dormant cuttings can be rooted, provided the cuttings are properly ventilated and protected some from the hot sun. Seeds may be started in open pans or boxes and the seedlings later transferred to flats (shallow boxes) or the open ground. Propagation equipment ranges through cold frames and hotbeds to lath-houses, greenhouses, heated or unheated, and bottom-heated propagating boxes or benches within the greenhouse. Equipment may be selected according to the work to be done and the finances available. It is usually advisable to start with the simple and less expensive propagating equipment, increasing the facilities as finance, experience, and plants seem to justify. The cold frame is just an enclosed area protected from the outside cold and heat by means of cheesecloth, waterproofed muslin, canvas, or glass. If heavy layers of a heating manure are installed beneath the soil in the frame then it is a hotbed. A lath-house is a house cov- ered with lath in such a way as to admit some light and yet prevent any serious sun injury. Many people space the lath the width of one lath apart. This space may be a little wide for a very hot sun and possibly a little close for a district with little sun. Figure 2 shows a small lath shelter. The greenhouse or glasshouse 11 is covered partially or entirely with glass. The small lean-to glasshouse with roof and part of one side of glass is the simplest but also the least effective. Manu- facturers of greenhouses will be glad to send literature and give cost estimates for various conditions. A lath-house and greenhouse can be advantageously used together for many kinds of ornamentals. io See also: Corbett, L. C. Propagation of plants. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 157:1-14. 1924. Yerkes, G. E. The propagation of trees and shrubs. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1567:1-51. 1929. ii Beattie, James H. Greenhouse construction and heating. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1318:1-38. 1923. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 21 Some herbaceous cuttings root best in a rather close frame (a propagating frame with the air kept humid by leaving very little ventilation) and a greenhouse lends itself very well to this kind of work. But those plants which thrive best with cool growing conditions, as calceolarias and chrysanthemums, or those plants which are to be held back some, need a cloth or partially open glass covering rather than a close greenhouse (that is, one with little ventilation). The growing part of the season may be spent under lath and the cold months in a greenhouse. Often a flowering plant, like the hothouse calceolaria, is rooted under glass, then is taken to a cold frame until Fig. 2. — A lath shelter is almost a necessity in most home gardens, but an expensive lath-house is not essential. A pit covered with a durable lath shade is very satisfactory for young seedlings, rooted cuttings, and many potted plants about the time the buds appear, and again taken back to the green- house for flowering. Actual methods for propagating and growing the many kinds of ornamentals differ ; the beginner should consult an/ of the well-known references on nursery management, 12 Materials needed for propagation work include sharp, clean sand (No. 2 and No. 4), oak leaf mold, German peat, potting soil, and occa- sionally other materials such as rotted turf and gravel for cacti seed- lings. Small paper planting pots, peat planting pots, fern dishes, and the like are needed for special purposes. The home gardener who 12 Bailey, L. H. The nursery manual. 456 p. 226 figs. 9 pi. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1920. Bailey, L. H., and Ethel Zoe Bailey. Hortus. 652 p. Macmillan Co., San Fran- cisco. 1930. Hottes, A. C. Practical plant propagation. A. T. De La Mare Co., Inc., New York. 1922. Kains, M. G. Plant propagation. 322 p. Orange Judd Co., New York. 1921. 22 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir.53 propagates orchids may need liter-size Ehrlenmeyer flasks in which the orchid seeds are planted on sterilized nutrient agar. 13 Growers of subtropical plants may be interested in a solar propagating frame. 14 Most hardware stores and seed stores or nurseries have a large assort- ment of equipment. For a seed flat, almost any small box can be used, or the home gardener can construct a seed box like that used by nurserymen. A seed flat suitable for home use is 11 inches wide, 11 inches long, and 3y± inches deep, outside measurement. Specifications for nursery or seed flats are shown below. See figure 3. I I 1 a. i Z3- Fig. 3. — Seed flats, showing the methods of nailing bottoms on flats. A, Small seed flat. B, Standard flat. Cross-section view. Scale *4 inch equals 1 inch. Part Number of pieces Width, inches Length, inches Thickness, inches Standard nursery flat Ends 2 3 10 1 • Sides 2 3 23 Vi Bottoms fi i l A 6 23 23 Ends Sides 2 2 3 3 10 11 l Vi Bottoms 2 5M 11 Vx Seed pans are shallow pots used for growing plants from seeds. The deeper seed pans are sometimes called fern dishes and vary in both depth and diameter. A 6-inch pan (inside diameter) might be is For information on orchids see: White, E. A. American orchid culture. 228 p. 8 col. pi. A. T. De La Mare Co., Inc., New York. 1927. i4 Swingle, Walter T., T. E. Eobinson, and E. May, Jr. Solar propagating frame for rooting citrus and other subtropical plants. U. S. Dept. Agr. Dept. Cir. 310:1-13. 1924. 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 23 4% inches deep, an 8-inch pan 5% inches deep, a 41/2-inch pan 3 inches deep, and so on. A shallower pan is preferable for many kinds of seed. For example, a 10-inch pan with a depth of 2% inches would meet all needs for the shallower-rooted seedlings and would take much less soil than the deeper pans. SEASONAL ASPECTS OF THE FLOWER GARDEN Some home gardeners confine themselves to a spring garden in which flowers like the tulip, narcissus, iris, and various rock plants predominate. Others specialize in dahlias or gladiolus, which are at their best in the summer months, or in chrysanthemums, which are at their best in October. If all the plants in a garden bloom during the same season, however, the garden is apt to be uninteresting during the rest of the year. For this reason there is a tendency, even among people who have a hobby, to diversify their plantings so that there will be bloom during a larger part of the year. In most locations in California it is possible to have some color in the garden every month in the year (see table 2). In a year-round garden there will probably be a perennial border that has several distinct flushes of bloom, and possibly there will be a change in the prevailing color with each separate blooming period. Modern landscape designers often favor such planning of gardens. A green lawn or ground cover, a garden pool with its many water plants, green trees in the back ground, vines on the fences and trellises, ornamental gates, and garden furniture of good taste give a permanency to the garden which is generally lacking where a single kind of flower is grown. The spring months in the garden bring to mind the spring bulbs, the flowering trees such as the peach, crab apple, and cherry, the primroses, and other early herbaceous plants. A little later will come the delphinium, gerbera (Transvaal daisy), pyrethrum, ixias, early gladiolus, rhododendrons and azaleas, perennial scabiosa (as Scabiosa columbaria) , campanulas, and watsonias, followed by the main-season gladiolus, summer-blooming succulents, such as Sempervivums and Echeverias, godetias, clarkias, various poppies, and a host of other popular flowers in a wide range of color. Dahlias are at their best in July, August, and September, chrysanthemums in October, and the berried shrubs take care of the winter months with the help of a few flowers such as those of the little winter iris (Iris tmguicularis or I. stylosa), fuchias, and other scattered late bloom. 24 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 TABLE 2 Blooming Periods of Common Garden Flowers Name Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. ► Campanula medium (Canterbury bell). ... < ► Centaurea cyanus (cornflower) Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese quince) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyrethrum) Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy) Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthe- mum) Cineraria Clematis (virgin's bower) <_ Deutzia ► Dianthus caryophillus (bedding carna- Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Erica mediterranea (Mediterranean Eucalyptus ficifolia(red- flowered gum).... ^ < t Jacaranda t 1931] Home Floriculture in California 25 TABLE 2— Continued Name Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Leptospermum (Australian tea tree) ^ * Lilium henryi Lobular ia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lychnis ckalcedonica (maltese cross) Magnolia; deciduous species Mesembryanthemum (ice plant) Muscari (grape hyacinth) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil) . *- - ( Nerium oleander (oleander) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Passi flora (passion flower) « . Petunia Phlox Physostegia (false dragonhead) Pimelea ferruginea (rice flower) Plumbago capensis Polygonum auberti (silver lace vine) Primula malacoides (baby primrose) Primula polyantha (polyanthus Prunus (flowering almond, peach, apricot) Prunus (Japanese flowering cherry) « * t „ Trachymene (blue lace-flower or didiscus) Viburnum opulus var. sterile (snowball) ^ . , t 26 California Agricultural Extension Service [ c * r - 53 A few flowers seem to fill in bare spots during each of the seasons except the winter. The little Virginian stocks (Malcomia maritima) can be planted repeatedly to give color to bare spots in the garden, such as about the irises after they are through bloom or about the daffodils and tulips when they are past their prime. These Virginian stocks take only six to eight weeks to begin blooming from seed sown broadcast and kept watered. Again, some of the bulbs like gladiolus may be planted at different times to extend the season of bloom. Sweet peas have a rather long season of bloom. With several of the cool flowering plants like the true lilies and perhaps sweet peas the season of bloom might be further extended if cold storage facilities were available to retard or advance the breaking of the normal rest period. These several examples are given to suggest possibilities within the modest home garden. Certainly, most California gardens can have color in practically every month of the year at no great expense. FLOWERS AND ORNAMENTALS FOR SPECIAL USES Beginners in home floriculture often have to be satisfied for the. time being with annuals which give a quick effect. These annuals are usually inexpensive but involve considerable labor when planted on a large scale. Tall annuals for grouping in the background and climb- ing vines for growing about the buildings may be selected. In front of the tall annuals may be placed those perennial border plants which give a quick effect. The bedding annuals or low edging biennials and perennials are well adapted for planting near garden walks. A few shrubs which give a quick effect may be planted along with the annuals and herbaceous perennials. Home gardeners should plan for permanent effects in the garden. Deciduous flowering shrubs and trees, deciduous flowering climbers and trailing plants, broad-leaved evergreens for flowers and berries, evergreen flowering trees, evergreen flowering vines and trailers, and occasionally some of the yuccas, grasses, and large succulents may be used to secure these permanent effects. The flower grower usually finds that he must select plants for a particular environment. Possibly he may need herbaceous plants or shrubs for shade with plenty of moisture. In other parts of the garden there may be a need for plants which will tolerate a hot sun. These sun-loving plants may require considerable moisture in some instances but in many other cases the plants for sunny situations are drouth- 1931] Home Floriculture in California 27 resistant. Only in a few cases will a drouth-resistant plant not be able to stand a hot sun. Gardeners have a tendency to become specialists. After working to establish a permanent garden they often wish to build special kinds of gardens. Rock gardening has recently become very popular and has greatly increased the demand for rock garden plants of both Fig. 4. — Nigella (love-in-a-mist) is an interesting hardy annual valued for its cut flowers and its ease of culture. (Photograph by courtesy of John Bodger and Sons Co.) desert and alpine types. More people are building lily pools in their gardens than ever before, and this development has increased the need for aquatic and bog plants. Those who do not have space for full-sized gardens may have gar- dens in hanging baskets, window boxes, and bowls or portable gardens. Many of the succulents (see list for desert- type rock gardens) are adapted to small portable gardens or miniature gardens. Some of the 28 California Agricultural Extension Service L Cir - 53 plants suitable for hanging baskets and window boxes are given in one of the following lists. Plants are frequently selected for their utility value in the home. Herbaceous and perennial plants may be chosen for their fragrance in the garden or in the home. Flowering plants are very frequently selected for their value in supplying cut flowers for the home as well as for the color they lend to the garden. In most cases the flowers planted must serve a combination of uses. The various uses just mentioned will be illustrated by the planting lists to follow. FLOWERING PLANTS FOR QUICK EFFECT^ Bedding Annuals Adonis aleppica and A. aestivalis Ageratum (floss flower) Alonsoa warscewiczi Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Browallia Calendula (pot marigold) (fig. 10) Callistephus chinensis (China aster) (fig. 9) Celosia argentea (woolflower and feathered cockscomb) Centaur ea cyanus (cornflower) Centaur ea moschata (sweet sultan) Chrysanthemum carinatum (tricolor chrysanthemum ) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) ; perennial but often used as an annual ClarMa Cynoglossum (Chinese forget-me-not) Dianthus chinensis var. heddewigi (Chinese pink) and D. hybrid (sweet wivelsfield) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) (fig. 11) Gaillardia pulchella var. picta (annual blanket flower or gaillardia) Godetia Gypsophila elegans (baby's breath) Heliophila linearifolia Iberis amara (candytuft) Limonium suworowi and other annual species (sea lavender) Linum grandiflorum (scarlet flax) Lupinus pubescens (lupin) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stock) Mathiola incana var. annua (ten- weeks stock) (fig. 15) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) (fig- 4) Papaver rheas (shirley poppy) Petunia hybrida (common garden petunia) (fig. 13) Phlox drummondi (annual phlox) (fig- 5) Reseda odorata (mignonette) Schizanthus ; species or hybrids (butterfly flower) Tagetes (African and French mari- gold) Tropeolum majus (nasturtium) Vrsinia anthemoides Venidium decurrens and other species Viola tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) Tall Annuals for. Grouping Amaranthus Arctotis stechadifolia (African blue- daisy) Cleome spinosa (giant spider plant) Coreopsis tinctoria (calliopsis) Cosmos bipinnatus (fig. 6) Delphinium ajacis (annual larkspur) (fig. 12) RudbecMa bicolor (coneflower) Salpiglossis (painted glories) is For full descriptions see seed and nursery catalogs or : Bailey, L. H. Stan- dard cyclopedia of America horticulture. 3 vols. 3639 p. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1928. Also: Bailey, L. H. Manual of cultivated plants. 851 p. Mac- millan Co., San Francisco. 1924. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 29 Low Edging Annuals Ageratum (dwarf floss flower) Bellis perennis (English daisy) Celosia argent ea (dwarf celosia) Dianthus (Chinese pink) Iberis amara (dwarf candytuft) Lobelia erinus Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stock) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Portulaca Reseda odorata (mignonette) Torenia fournieri; usually annual Verbena hybrida (common garden verbena) Viola tricolor var. liortensis (pansy) Fig. 5. — Phlox drummondi, with its many colors, makes a fine annual for massing and borders. It will bloom practically the whole season if planted in the full sun and properly watered. (Photograph by courtesy of Germain Seed and Plant Co.) Annual Climbing Vines Calonyction (moonflower) ; perennial used as an annual Cardiospermum halicacabum (balloon vine) Dolichos lablab (hyacinth bean) Humulus (Japanese hop vine) Ipomea purpurea (morning-glory) Lagenaria and other gourd genera (ornamental gourds) Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) (fig. 16) Phaseolus coccineus (scarlet runner bean) Quamoclit lob at a ; perennial used as an annual Quamoclit pennata (cypress vine) Quamoclit sloteri (cardinal climber) Tropeolum majus (nasturtium) Tropeolum peregrinum (canary bird vine) 30 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Fig. 6. — The crested cosmos, a recent introduction to this group of beautiful summer and autumn annuals, has added an artistic touch as shown in the photo- graph. (Photograph by courtesy of John Bodger and Sons Co.) 1931 Home Floriculture in California 31 Low Edging Biennials and Perennials Alyssum saxatile (golden tuft) Anemone japonica (Japanese anemone) Bellis perennis (English daisy) Campanula, especially C. carpatica and C. portensclilagiana Centaur ea (sweet sultan) Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy) Chrysanthemum parthenium var. aureum (golden feather) ; for foliage border. Dianthus plumarius (border or spice pinks) (fig. 19) Freesia Gazania Helianthemum (sun rose) Lychnis coronaria (mullein pink) Oxalis Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Phy salts alkelcengi (Chinese lantern- plant ) Primula malacoides, P. polyantha, P. elatior, and P. veris (primroses) Saponaria ocymoides (soapwort) Sedum and other succulents Thymus, especially T. serpyllum (woolly thyme) Perennial Borders (including some shrubs) Anthemis nobilis (chamomile) Anthemis tinctoria (golden mar- guerite) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Aquilcgia (columbine) Althea rosea (hollyhock) Calceolaria hybrids; shrubby species Campanula medium (Canterbury bell) Canna Cephalaria alpina Cheiranthus (wallflower) Chrysanthemum frutescens (mar- guerite) Cuphca platy centra (cigar flower) Cytisus racemosus (broom or genista) Dahlia (fig. 20) Delphinium (perennal larkspur) Digitalis (foxglove) Doronicum excelsum (leopard's bane) Eryngium amethystinum Fuchsia Gaillardia aristata Gerbera jamesojii (Transvaal daisy) Geum chiloense (geum) Gladiolus (sword lily) (fig. 22) Heliopsis helianthoides (orange sun- flower) Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells) Hibiscus rosasinensis (Chinese hibis- cus and H. moscheutos (rose mallow) Iris; all species (fig. 23) Kniphofia uvaria (tritoma or poker- plant) Lavandula (lavender) Leonotis (lion's tail) Lupinus, especially L. hybridus varie- ties (lupin) Narcissus tazetta and other species Paeonia suffructicosa (tree peony) (ng. 28) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Papaver orientalis (Oriental poppy) Pelargonium (geranium) Pentstemon Pldomis fructicosa (Jerusalem sage) Physostegia virginiana (false dragon- head) Eehmannia angulata Rosa (rose) (fig. 26) Eudbeckia lacinata var. hortensia (golden glow) Salvia especially S. splendens, S. farin- acea, and S. leucantha (flowering sage) Scabiosa columbaria and S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (perennial scabiosa) Trollius (globe flower) Tidipa (tulip) Verbascum phoeniceum and other species (mullein) Veronica hulkeana and similar species Ornamental Grasses for the: Border, Arrhenatherum elatius var. tuberosum (striped oat grass) Pennisetum ruppeli (fountain grass) Phalaris arundinacea var. picta (variegated ribbon grass) Stipa pennata (feather grass) 32 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 PERENNIALS FOR MORE PERMANENT EFFECTS Deciduous Flowering Shrubs Azalea mollis (azalea) Berberis (barberry) especially B. wil- sonae ; sernideciduous Bouvardia triphylla (bouvardia) Buddleia variabilis (summer lilac) Cesalpinia gilliesi (bird-of -paradise shrub) Calycanthus occidentalis (sweet- scented shrub) Caragana (pea tree) Caryoptcris incana (blue spirea) Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese quince) Cornus (dogwood) Daphne mezereum (daphne) Deutzia gracilis, D. scabra, and hybrids (deutzia) Diervilla floribunda and hybrids (weigelia) Forsythia suspensa (golden bells) Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon) Hydrangea opuloides ; sernideciduous outside Kollcwitzia amabilis (beauty bush) Lagerstremia indica (crape myrtle) Magnolia, especially M. stellata Peonia suffructicosa (tree peony) Philadelphus (mock orange, syringa) Prunus cerasifera var. pissardi (pur- ple-leaved flowering plum) P. persi- ca (flowering peach) P. triloba (flowering almond), P. semdata (Japanese flowering cherry), and P. glandulosa (dwarf flowering almond) Punica granatum (pomegranate) Pyrus, especially P. pulcherrima (showy crab) Rhus (sumach) Bibes sanguineum (flowering currant) Spirea prunifolia (bridal wreath) and S. vanhouttei Symphoricarpus albus (snowberry) and S. orbicularis (Indian currant) Syringa vulgaris (lilac) Tamarix parviflora (tamarisk) Viburnum opulus var. sterile (snow- ball), V. carlesi, and V. fragrans Deciduous Flowering Trees Albizzia jidibrizzin (silk tree) Catalpa Cercis (Judas tree or red bud) Crategus (thorn tree ; hawthorn) Laburnum (golden chain tree) Liriodendron (tulip tree) Magnolia soulangeana Melia (Texas umbrella tree) Populus tremula var. pendula (weep- ing poplar) ; valued for its catkins Prunus cerasifera var. pissardi (pur- ple-leaved flowering plum), P. persi- ca (flowering peach), P. triloba (flowering almond), and P. ser- rulata (Japanese flowering cherry) Pyrus spectabilis (Chinese flowering apple), P. ionensis (Bechtel's flow- ering crab), and P. theifera (tea crab) Robinia hispida (rose acacia) Salix discolor (pussy willow) Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree) Sorbus americana (mountain ash) Deciduous Flowering Climbers or Trailing Plants Actinidia chincnsis (yangtao) Antignon leptopus. (coral vine, or rosa de montana) Araujia sericofera (Physianthus al- bens) (cruel plant) Campsis chinensis (Chinese trumpet creeper) C. radicans (trumpet creeper) Clematis, especially C. montana and C. \mniculata (virgin's bower) Humilis (Japanese hop vine) Lathyris latifolius (perennial sweet pea) Lonicera japonica (Japanese honey- suckle) Mandevilla suaveolens (Chilean jasmine) Polygonum auberti (silver lace vine) Pueraria (kudzu vine) Rosa; all climbing roses Wistaria sinensis (Chinese wistaria) and W. floribunda (Japanese wis- taria) 1931 Home Floriculture in California 33 Broad-leaved Evergreen Shrubs for Flowers or Berries Abelia grandiflora Abutilon (flowering maple) Acacia, especially A. bailey ana and A. pravissima Arbutus unedo (strawberry tree) Azalea, especially A. indicum and A. obtusum Bauhinia (orchid tree) Berberis darwini (Darwin's barberry) Boronia, especially B. elatior and B. megastigma Buddleia (summer lilac) Callistcmon (bottle brush) Camellia japonica (fig. 29) Cantua buxifolia (magic plant) Carissa grandiflora (natal plum) Carpenteria calif ornica Cassia tomentosa (senna) Ceanothus (wild lilac) Cestrum Clwiysa ternata (Mexican orange) Chorizema ilia 'folium (holly pea or flame pea) Cistus (rock rose) Cotoneaster ; for berries Coronilla Cornus oapitata (Himalayan dog- wood) Cytisus racemosus (genista or broom) and C. andreanus hybrids Daboecia cantabrica {Erica menziesii) (Irish bell heather) Daphne, especially D. odora and J). cneorum Diosma (breath of heaven) Dombeya wallichi Duranta repens (golden dewdrop) Echium fatuosum Eleagnus (oleaster) Erica (heather) Erythrina (coral tree) Escallonia Eugenia (brush cherry) Euonymus Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia) Fabiana imbricata Fuchsia Gardenia jasminoides (Cape jasmine or gardenia) Grevillea, especially G. thelemanniana and G. banksi Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibis- cus) Hypericum moserianum (gold flower) Ilex (holly) ; for berries Iochroma Kalmia latifolia (mountain laurel) Kerria japonica (Japanese yellow rose) Lantana camara (lantana) Lavandula (lavender) Leonotis (lion's tail) Leptospermum (Australian tea tree) Leucophyllum texanum Lcucothoe {Andromeda) catesbaei Ligustrum (privet) Lippia citriodora (lemon verbena) Lonicera nitida (bush honeysuckle) MaJwnia, especially M. japonica (.Jap- anese Mahonia) and M. aquifolium (Oregon grape) Malvaviscus arborcus Melaleuca (honey-myrtle or paper- bark) Michelia fuscata (banana shrub) Nandina domestica (Japanese nan- dina) Nerium (oleander) ParMnsonia aculeata (Jerusalem thorn) Pieris {Andromeda) especially P. japonica and P. floributida Pernettia mucronata ; for berries Photinia arbutifolia (toyon) Pimelea ferruginea (rice flower) Pittosporum., especially P. tobira and P. undulatum Plumbago capensis Polygala dalmaisiana Prunus, especially P. laurocerasus (cherry-laurel) and P. lusitanica (Portugal laurel) Punica granatum var. nana (dwarf pomegranate) Pyracantha (evergreen hawthorn or firethorn) ; for berries Eaphiolepis umbcllata and E. indica Rhododendron, especially R. ponticum, R. catawbiense, and hybrids Rondeletia cordata Salvia (flowering sage) Slnmmia japonica and S. fortunei Spartium junceum (Spanish broom) Streptosolen jamesoni Strobilanthes isophyllus (bedding conehead) Tecoma stans (yellow bignonia) Teucrium frwticans Tibouchina {Pleroma) Veronica hullceana and other species Viburnum tiniis (laurestinus) Wigandia caracasana 34 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Evergreen Flowering Trees Acacia, especially A. decurrens var. mollis (black wattle), A. decurrens var. dealbata (silver wattle), and A. floribunda (white sallow acacia) Arbutus menziesi (madrone) Brachy chiton acerifoUum (flame tree) Citrus aurantium (orange) Duranta repent (golden dewdrop) Eucalyptus, especially E. ficifolia (red- flowered gum) and E. leucoxylon rosea (pink-flowered white iron- bark) Grevillea robusta (silk oak) Earpullia arborea Jacaranda ovali folia (jacaranda) Lagunaria patersoni Leptospermum (Australian tea, tree) Lyonothamnus (island ironwood) Magnolia grandiflora Photinia serrulata Pittosporum, especially P. undulatum (sweet pittosporum) Schinus molle (pepper tree) ; for ber- ries Tamarix articulata (athel) ; mostly for windbreak Evergreen Flowering Vines and Trailing Plants ATcebia quinata Bignonia capreolata (trumpet flower or cross vine) Buginvillea spectabilis, especially va- riety Crimson Lake Colony ction (moonflower) Cardiospermum hirsutum (balloon vine) Clytostoma callistegioides (Bignonia speciosa, B. violacea) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea vine) Doxantha unguis-cati (Big7wnia unguis-cati, B. tweediana) (catsclaw) Gelsemium sempervirens (Carolina yellow jessamine) Hardenbergia (coral pea) Eibbertia volubilis (guinea flower) Eoya carnosa (wax plant) ; tender Jasminum (jasmine) Lantana sellowia7ia (trailing lantana) Lonicera hildebrandiana (L. hildebran- di) ; also L. japonica (Japanese honeysuckle) ; semideciduous Mandevilla suaveolens (Chilean jas- mine) Milletia megasperma (Wistaria megas- perma) (evergreen wistaria) Pandorea australis (Tecoma australis) (wonga-wonga vine) Pandorea ricasoliana (Tecoma mack- em) Passiflora (passion flower) Phaedranthus buccinatorius (Bignonia cherere) (red trumpet vine) Phaseolus caracalla (corkscrew flower or snail vine) Philadelphus Tcarwinskyanus (P. mexi- canus (climbing syringa) Plumbago capensis Pyrostegia ignea (Bignonia venusta) (flaming trumpet) Ruellia malcoyana Busselia juncea Solandra guttata (cup of gold) Solanum jasminoides (potato vine) Solly a heterophylla (Australian blue- bell creeper) Swainsona galegifolia (Swainson pea) Tacsonia manicata (scarlet passion flower) Tecomaria capensis (Cape honey- suckle) Trachelospermum jasminoides (star jasmine) Vinca major (myrtle vine) Grasses, Yuccas, and Similar, Plants Valued for Blooms Aloe arborescens and similar species Bllbergia nutans Cortaderia argentea (pampas grass) Cyperus (umbrella plant) Musa (banana) Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax) Strelitizia reginae (bird-of -paradise flower, or crane flower) Yucca flamentosa (Adam's needle) 1931 Home Floriculture in California 35 PLANTS FOR SPECIAL ENVIRONMENTS Herbaceous Plants for, Shade with Plenty of Moisture Alstroemeria aurantiaca (Peruvian my) Anemone japonica (Japanese anemone) Aquilegia, especially A. cerulea (Rocky Mountain columbine), A. chrysantha, and hybrids: for light shade Asarum (wild ginger) Astilbe, especially A. astilboides and A. davidi (herbaceous spirea) Begonia, especially B. semperflorens (includes Vernon and other kinds) Calceolaria integrifolia and hybrids; light shade Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) ; light shade Cineraria cruentus (florists' cineraria) Convallaria (lily-of -the- valley) Cyclamen indicum (florists' cyclamen) Erytlironium (dog-tooth violet) Dicentra (bleeding heart) Digitalis (foxglove) Geum chiloense (geum) Hedychium coronarium (garland flower) Helleborus niger (Christmas rose) Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells) Iris, especially I. unguicularis, I. ful- va, I. japonica, and I. longipetala Lobularis maritima (sweet alyssum) Mimulus moschatus (musk flower) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Pentstemon ; especially P. gloxiniodes and P. heterophyllus Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. polyantha (polyanthus primrose), P. elatior (oxslip), P. veris (cow- slip), P. japonica, and other species of primroses Salvia (flowering sage) Saxifraga (saxifrage) Silene (Indian pink) ; for light shade Thalictriim (meadow rue) Viola; especially V. odorata (violet), V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy), and V. cornuta (tufted pansy or viola) ; for light shade Shrubs for Shade with Plenty of Moisture Cotoneaster ; for light shade Escallonia ; for light shade Fuchsia Hydrangea opuloides (hydrangea) Hhododendron and Azalea Flowering Plants for, Sun with Plenty of Moisture Aquilegia (columbine) Asarum (wild ginger) Bcllium minutum Brodiaea coronaria (harvest brodiaea), B. capitata (blue dicks), and other species Campanula; most dwarf species Calochortus (Mariposa lily) Convolvulus mauritanicus (dwarf morning-glory) Erigeron, especially E. alpinus and E. mucronatus Geum chiloense, especially the varie- ties Mrs. Bradshaw and Lady Stratheden Iris sibirica (Siberian iris) and I. levigata (Japanese iris) Eniphofia uvaria (tritoma or poker plant) Oenothera (evening primrose) Phlox subulata and other low-growing species Primula polyantha, P. elatior, and P. veris (primrose) Viola odorata (violet), V. cornuta tufted pansy), and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) Zausclineria calif ornica (California fuchsia) 36 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Flowering Plants for Sunny, Hot Situations and with a Moderate Moisture Supply Abronia (sand verbena) Achillea Aethionema Aloe Arabis alpina (rock cress) Aubretia deltoidea Brodiaea, especially B. capitata (wild hyacinth), B. coccinea (firecracker flower), and B. coronaria (harvest brodiaea) Calochortus (Mariposa lily) Centaurea cyatius (corn flower) Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy ) Coreopsis lanceolata and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) Convolvulus mauretanicus (dwarf morning-glory) Delphinium nudicaule and all western species (wild larkspurs) Dicentra spectabilis (bleeding heart) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Echinops ritro (globe thistle) Echiveria gibbi flora and similar species Erysimum (wild wallflower) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Felicia amelloides (blue marguerite) Gaillardia aristata Gaura lindheimeri Gypsophila repens Helenium autumnale (sneezeweed) Helianthemum chamaecistus (sun rose) Helianthus (sunflower) Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells) Hemerocallis (day lily) Iris germanica (German iris) Leucocoryne ixioides Linum perenne (perennial blue flax) Mimulus guttatus (monkey-flower) Papaver rheas (shirley poppy) Pelargonium peltatum (ivy geranium) and P. domesticum (fancy gera- nium) Pentstemon gloxiniodes and western species, especially P. heterophyllus Petunia hybrida (common garden petunia) Potentilla (cinquifoil) RudbecJcia (coneflower) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride or pincushion flower) Silene (catchfly, Indian pink, etc.) Stolcesia levis (Stoke 's aster) Tagetes patula (French marigold) and T. erecta (African marigold) Verbena hybrida (common garden verbena) Wild-flower mixtures of hardy vari- ties, which may be secured from any seedsman Drouth-resistant Flowering Plants Acacia, especially A. armata (kanga- roo thorn), A. pravissima (Oven's acacia) and A. baileyana Buddleia variabilis (summer lilac) Callistemon (bottle brush) Cassia tomentosa Cistus albidus (white rock rose) Eucalyptus ficifolia (red-flowered gum), E. leucoxylon rosea (white ironbark), E. sideroxylon rosea (red ironbark) See also: Eock garden plants, desert type (p. 37) and "Grasses, yuccas, and similar plants valued for bloom" (p. 34). Melaleuca (honey-myrtle or paper- bark) Nerium (oleander) Parlcinsonia (Jerusalem thorn) Pittosporum tobira, and P. undulatum (sweet pittosporum) Bomneya coulteri (Matilija poppy) Spartium junceum (Spanish broom) Stokesia levis (Stoke 's aster) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 37 PLANTS FOR SPECIAL GARDENS^ Bock Garden Plants, Desert Type Achillea ptarmica (sneezewort) Aethionema grandiflorum Alyssum saxatile (golden tuft) Arabis alpina (rock cress) Aubretia deltoidea Cerastium tomentosum ; should be confined Convolvulus mauritanicus (dwarf morning-glory) Eriophyllum lanata Euphorbia myrsinites Iberis gibraltarica (perennial candy- tuft) Opuntia ficus-indica, and other species of cacti used in rock gardens Saponaria ocymoides (soapwort) Sedum, especially such species as S. album and S. spurium Sempervivum, especially S. tectorum and similar species Thymus serpyllum, especially the va- riety known as woolly thyme (creep- ing thyme) Zauschneria calif omica (California fuchsia) Rock Garden Plants, Alpine Type Anchusa my osotidi flora Aquilegia, especially A. pyrenica and similar hardy species (columbine) Asarum (wild ginger) Aster alpinus Bellium minutum Calochortus (Mariposa lily) Campanula, especially perennial species Dianthus plumarius, D. caesius, D. deltoides (perennial pinks) Dodecatheon (shooting star) Doronicum clusii (leopard's bane) Erinus alpinus Erigeron; hardy species Erythronium (dogtooth violet) Gentiana (gentians) Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells) Hypericum repens (creeping gold flower) Lewisia Mertensia virginica (Virginia cow- slip) Meconopsis baileyi (blue Chinese poppy) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Oxalis Phlox, hardy species Primula auricula and other hardy species Sax if rag a (saxifrage) Sedum, especially S. roseum and simi- lar hardy species Sempervivum (house leek) Silene Thymus serpyllum (creeping thyme) Viola, especially the hardy and shade- loving species like V. pedata (birds- foot violet) Flowering Aquatic Plants Aponogeton distachyus grandiflorum (water hawthorn) Eichornia crassipes (water hyacinth) Hydrocleis nymphoides (water p°ppy) Nelumbo nucifera (Egyptian lotus) Nymphea (hardy and tropical water lilies) Nymphoides peltatum (floating heart) 16 For further information on rock garden plants see various reference books as: Correvon, Henry. Rock garden and alpine plants. 560 p. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1930. Hoffman, Ralph, E. O. Orpet, Eric Walther, and James West. Cacti and other succulents. 107 p. Garden Tours Committee of the Community Arts Association, Santa Barbara. 1930. Houghton, Arthur D. The cactus book. 145 p. Macmillan Co., San Fran- cisco. 1930. Rockwell, F. F. Rock gardens. 86 p. Macmillan Co., San Francisco. 1928. 38 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Flowering Boo Plants (some will grow in water) Cyperus (umbrella plant) Hymenocallis caribae (spider lily) 7m, especially 7. pseudacorus, I. levi- gata (Japanese iris) and 7. sib erica (Siberian iris) Lobelia cardinalis Mimulus moschata (musk flower) Thalia dealbata (water canna) Typhae (cat-tail) Zantedeschia (calla) Flowering Plants for Hanging Baskets or Window Boxes Begonia (trailing varieties ) Campanula, especially C. isophylla and C. garganica Lobelia: (trailing varieties) Lotus berthelotii Pelargonium peltatum (ivy geranium) Petunia, especially balcony varieties Sedum sieboldii Torenia foumieri and T. flava Tropeolum ma jus (nasturtium) Flowering Plants Often Used as Potted Plants (in addition to those listed for hanging baskets) ; mostly limited to glasshouse or inside culture. Aporocactus flagelliformis (rat-tail cactus) Epiphyllum (PJiyllocactus) and hybrids Hippeastrum hybrids (hybrid amaryllis) Strelitzia reginae (bird-of -paradise flower) Zantedeschia elliottiana (golden or yellow calla) Zygocactus truncatus (Christmas or crab cactus) PLANTS WITH FRAGRANT FLOWERS Herbaceous Plants Cattleya, Laelia, and other orchids Centaur ea moschata (sweet sultan) Convallaria (lily-of-the-valley) Dimithus caryophyllus (carnation) and 7>. plumarius (spice pink) Freesia Eyacinthus (hyacinth) Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lilium (lily) ; most species Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Mathiola (stock) Narcissus odorus (campernelle jonquil) Peonia (herbaceous peony) Petunia Polianthes (tuberose) Verbena Viola odorata (violet) Woody Plants Acacia bailey ana and other species of acacia Boronia megastigma (brown boronia) Bouvardia; white hybrid Cestrum diurnum (day jasmine) and C. nocturnum (night jasmine) Citrus aurantium (orange) Daphne odora (daphne) Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia or Cape jasmine) Gelsemium (Carolina yellow jessa- mine) Eeliotropium peruvianum (heliotrope) Jasminum ( j asmine ) Lavandula (lavender) Lonicera japonica (Japanese honey- suckle) Mandevilla suaveolens (Chile jasmine) Philadelphus (syringa) Pittosporum undulatum (sweet pittosporum) Prunus lannesiana (Japanese cherry) Rosa; especially tea and hybrid tea varieties of roses Spartium junceum (Spanish broom) Stephanotis floribunda Syringa vulgaris (lilac) Trachelospermum (star jasmine) Viburnum carlesi and V. fragrans Wistaria sinensis (Chinese wistaria) W. floribunda (Japanese wistaria) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 39 FLOWERS VALUED FOR CUT BLOOM Herbaceous Plants Alstroemeria (Peruvian lily) A ntirrhinum ( snap dragon ) Aquilegia (columbine) Aster; perennial (michaelmas daisy) Calendula (pot marigold) Callistephus chinensis (China aster) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) and other species Canna Centaurea cyanus (corn flower) and C. moschatus (sweet sultan) Chrysanthemum ; annual and perennial species Convallaria (lily-of-the-valley) Coreopsis tinctoria, (calliopsis), C. la.nceolata, and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Cyclamen Daffodils — see Narcissus Dahlia Delphinium ; annual and perennial species of larkspur Dianthus ; especially carnations and pinks Dicentra (bleeding heart) Doronicum (leopard's bane) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Freesia Gaillardia Gerbera jamesoni (Transvaal daisy) Geum chiloense (geum) Gladiolus Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells) Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth) Iris, especially /. germanica, I. ungui- cularis, I. sibirica, xiphium hybrids, and I. orientalis Jonquil — see Narcissus Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lilium, especially L. longiflorum, L. candidum, L. speciosum, and L. regale Mathiola incana (stock) Narcissus jonquila (jonquil), N. tazetta (polyanthus narcissus), N. pseudo -narcissus (daffodil) and other species Peonia albiflora (herbaceous peony) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Phlox paniculata (summer perennial phlox) Polianthes tuberosa (tuberose) Ranunculus asiaticus (ranunculus) Reseda odorata (mignonette) Salvia, especially S. leucantha, 8. ne- morosa, and S. azurea (sage) Scabiosa, especially S. atropurpurea, S. caucasica, and S. columbaria Schizanthus wisetonensis and hybrids (butterfly flower) Tagetes (French and African mari- gold species) Thalictrum dipterocarpum and T. aquilegi folium (meadow rue) Tritonia hybrids (montbretia) Viola odorata (violet), V. cornuta (tufted pansy or viola), V. tri- color var. hortensis (pansy) Zinnia elegans Woody Plants Acacia bailey ana and A. pravissima Camellia japonica (fig. 29) Ceanothus aboreus (wild lilac) Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese quince) Chorizema ilicifolium (holly pea or flame pea) Cotoneaster pannosa and C. hero- veana; for berries Daphne odora Deutzia scabra and other species Erica melanthera Eucalyptus ficifoli-a (red-flowered gum) and E. leucoxylon rosea KolJcwitzia amabilis (beauty bush) Nerium oleander (oleander) Photinia arbutifolia (toyon) ; valued for the berries Prunus triloba (flowering almond), P. cerasifera var. blirieana (flowering plum), P. mume (flowering apricot), P. persica (flowering peach), P. ser- rulata (Japanese flowering cherry), P. subhirtella var. pendula (Japan- ese weeping rose-flowered cherry), and other species of flowering cherries Pyracantha, angustifolia, P. gibbsi var. yunanensis, and P. formosana; (firethorn) ; valued for the berries Pyrus spectabilis (Chinese flowering apple), P. ioensis (Bechtel's flower- ing crab), P. pulclierrima (showy crab), and several horticultural va- rieties within the species listed Rhododendron and Azalea Rosa (rose) 40 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Spirea prunifolia (bridal wreath), S. vanhouttei, S. bumalda, and other species SympJwricarpos orbiculatus (Indian- currant) and S. albus (snowberry) ; valued for the berries By ring a vulgaris (lilac) Wistaria floribunda (Japanese wis- taria) and W. sinensis (Chinese wistaria) PROPAGATION OF FLOWERING PLANTS PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS OR VEGETATIVE PARTS Many kinds of flowering" plants are propagated from parts of the stem, roots, or leaves. Divisions, offsets, offshoots, suckers, and layers, in addition to the simple stems, roots, or leaves, are utilized. Certain kinds of cuttings should be taken while the wood is still growing, either while soft or after it has hardened. The subsequent treatment of the cuttings also varies with the plant. Plants propagated by each of the various methods are listed below. Some are propagated by more than one method. Soft green cuttings (see fig. 7) Abutilon Felicia Maherni-a Scabiosa Arab is Forsythia Malvaviscus Sedum Aubretia Fuchsia Mesembryanthe- Sophora Boronia Gerbera mum Sparmannia Cactus Helianthemum Pentstemon Streptosole?i Calceolaria Hibiscus Petunia Tecoma Chrysanthemum Hypericum Phlox Verbena Cytisus Kerria Pimelea Veronica Dahlia Lantana Rehmannia Viburnum Dianthus Leptospermum Rochea Viola Erica Linum Salvia Hardened green cuttings Abelia Deutzia Jacaranda Pelargonium Azalea Diervilla Jasminum Pernettia Boronia Escallonia Lavandula Rosa Buginvillea Eugenia Lavatera Solandra Camellia Forsythia Leonotis Solanum Cassia Grevillea Mahonia Spirea Chorizema Hibiscus Mahcrnia Stephanotis Cistus Hoya Mandevilla Syringa Clerodendron Hydrangea Myrtus Tibouchina Cytisus Ilex Nerium Trachelospermum Daphne Ipomea Ripened wood cuttings rooted in the open Azalea Hydrangea Lonicera Rhododendron Berberis Kerria Lotus Rosa (fig. 8) Chaenomeles Kollnuitzia Philadelphus Salix Diervilla Lagerstremia Polygonum Spirea Duranta Leptospermum auberti Tamarix Fuchsia Ligustrum Punica 1931] Home Floriculture in California 41 Eipened wood cuttings rooted under glass Alcebia Bignonia Cotoneaster Cornus Gardenia Pyracantlia Eoot cuttings under glass Anemone japonica Aralia Bouvardia Caragana Phlox Eoot cuttings or rootstocks rooted in the open or long period under glass Alstroemeria Camellia Campanula Hibiscus Iris Robinia Wigandia Wistaria Fig. 7. — A, Diervilla (Weigelia) green cutting. The tip of this kind of plant should not be removed in making a green cutting. B, A green cutting of the hydrangea. It is permissible to remove the green tip in this kind of plant. C, A green tip cutting of the chrysanthemum. Note that the leaf surface is reduced in making all of these green cuttings, either by removing the lower leaves entirely or else by cutting off half or more of the upper leaves. This will help prevent excessive evaporation during the rooting period. Leaf cuttings from entire leaves Cotyledon Gasteria Haworthia Echeveria Gloxinia Nymphea (leaf- propagating kinds) Paulownia (young leaves) Tellima Leaf cuttings from a part of a leaf as in the case of the Begonia rex-cultorum are also possible. 42 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Layers Alcebia Comus Hoya Nerium Aubretia Cotoneaster Laburnum Parthenocissus Berberis Daphne Lonicera Philadelphus Cantua Echium Magnolia Pyracantha Cistus Euonymus Mandevilla Eobinia Fig. 8. — The dormant rose cutting cut just above and just below a bud. Buds beneath the surface are removed when budding or grafting is to be practiced. The cutting should be about the diameter of a pencil and well matured from past season 's growth. Simple division Agave Aloe Amaryllis Anchusa Anemone Aquilegia Arab is Armeria Aster A stilb e Aubretia Bauhinia Berberis Campanula Canna Chrysanthemum Comus Cotyledon Cyperus Dahlia Delphinium Dianthus Dicentra Doronicum Echinops Eremurus Erigeron Erythrina Gaillardia Gazania Geum Gypsophila Helenium He liant lb e mum Hellcborus Heuchera Hydrocleis Hypericum calyoi- num Iris Kerria Laburnum Leucothoe Linum Mahonia Musa Nymphea Peonia Paulownia Philadelphus Phlox Potentilla Primula BudbecJcia Scabiosa Sedum Sempervivum Statice Strelitzia Thalietrum Zantedeschia 1931 J * Home Floriculture in California 43 PROPAGATION BY SEED Annuals or plants started from seed each year are valuable for giving a quick effect in the garden and also for adding color to new plantings of shrubs. Since there is much in common between these annuals, general methods of propagation are given. Seasonal differ- ences are indicated in the planting calendar (p. 51) and special hints on certain flowers are given later. The equipment required is briefly described under "Equipment for Propagating Plants" (p. 20). Annuals do best when grown from fresh seed planted where there will be good aeration, a good growing temperature, sufficient light, and properly regulated moisture conditions. The great majority of flower seeds germinate best when planted in a seed flat or seed pan, but a few annuals like sweet peas are planted in the open. The seeds of plants which are resistant to cold and vari- able weather conditions or soil moisture can often be planted in the open ; in fact, most of the California wild flowers, such as California poppies, godetias, and clarkias, and some other annuals, such as Virginian stocks (Malcomia maritima) , shirley poppies, and candy- tuft, are planted in the open more often than in flats. If there is adequate moisture for them, the Virginian stocks may be grown in the bed where tulips, daffodils, irises, and similar plants have been growing. Very cool unfavorable growing conditions, either in the flat or in the open, will favor poor growth and disease. Little or nothing is to be gained by planting pansies, sweet peas, or snapdragons when grow- ing conditions are unfavorable. It would be much better to wait until the weather warms up in the spring than to plant in the fall and then have the seedlings stand still for several weeks. In a heavy soil, sweet peas often do far better as a spring crop than as a fall crop, owing mostly to the cold wet condition in the soil. Such conditions should be taken into consideration when planting flower seeds and planning a program for the garden. Soil for Growing Seeds. — Many of the common flower seeds do well when planted in a mixture of 2 parts good garden loam, 1 part sharp river sand (No. 2), and 1 part leaf mold. The mixture should be sifted through a %-inch mesh sieve to supply fine material for the upper half of the seed pan or flat, The coarser material that does not pass through the sieve will do very well for the bottom part of the flat or pan. No manure is needed in the mixture, in fact, it is a serious mistake 44 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 to add manure at the time of planting the seed. All manure added to loam soils should he added well in advance of seed-planting time so that there will be a minimum of danger from damping-off fungi and decaying material about the seeds. Special kinds of seeds will require a somewhat different mixture than that given above. Cacti 17 and various other drouth-resistant plants seem to demand a very well-drained soil. If a seed pan with a single hole in the bottom is used, it is best to enlarge the hole some- what. The bottom of the pan is filled with broken crock or pot to one-fourth the depth of the pan, then rotted sod is sifted through a Vs-inch sieve and the pan filled within about one inch of the top. A pan 4 inches deep has been recommended, but a pan even deeper, 4% to 5 inches, does well. This depth gives the best drainage. The Planting and Care of Seed. — If the bottom of the seed flat does not have cracks that will insure adequate drainage, %-inch holes are bored for this purpose. Seed pans come with one or more holes in the bottom. Over the holes should be laid broken pieces of pots so that the pieces will allow water to pass out. At the same time these pieces will hold the soil in. The sifted soil is added as required. Some growers suggest firming the top of the soil with a cylindrical block before planting the seed, but the same purpose can be served by jarring the pot on a bench so that the surface of the soil in the pot is level. The seed can then be planted and a little sifted soil or plain sand scattered over it until it is at the proper depth. The sand (No. 2) may be placed in a Mason jar and holes punched in the top so it can be sifted over the seed or over the sifted loam covering the seed. A sandy surface is freer from "algae and less likely to be troubled with the damping-off fungus than a loam surface. Drainage about the seeds is usually good. If a very coarse top surface is needed, as in the case of cactus seed, then fine gravel can be scattered over the surface. Very fine seed is planted shallow, larger seed deeper. In most cases the directions on the seed packets suggest a certain depth. Many of the smallest seeds should be covered only very lightly with the sand. Other seeds may be covered about Vs mc h an d the larger seeds can be covered as much as V4 inch. In the case of seeds like the gladiolus there is a tendency for the roots to pull the small bulblets down to the proper depth if it is not right at the start. A general rule is to cover 17 For details on planting cactus see: Griffiths, David. Cacti. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 66: 1-25.19 plates. 1929. (25 cents a copy from U. S. Supt. of Documents, Washington, D. C.) 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 45 the seed to a depth equal to about twice the breath of the seed. There is more danger of planting too deep in heavy soil than in light soil or sandy soil. After the seed is sifted over the soil surface and covered it can be gently pressed with the block. It is a little easier to distribute properly the seed by firming with the block after planting than before. In the great majority of cases the planted seed needs no surface mulch of any kind, some of the wild lilies in the redwoods of Cali- fornia being possible exceptions. In the latter case a fine mulch of German peat may aid in securing quick germination. If the seed is not kept very moist it may take at least a year to germinate. Protection against a hot sun will be mentioned shortly. A piece of glass placed over the seed pot or flat will insure humidity and preserve heat. After the seed has been planted, the pan or flat should be set in 2 or 3 inches of water so that the whole soil mass will be wet thoroughly. Wetting the soil in this manner is much better than sprinkling. Even gentle sprinkling may float, some of the seeds to the top and dislodge others. Furthermore, covering the top with water may cause air bubbles to form and disturb some of the seed. After the seed has been thoroughly wet the flat or pan should be set away for germination. Sterilizing 18 soil in a soil sterilizer or by means of one of the organic mercury compounds or possibly by hot water, steam, or formalin might be considered in special cases where there is extreme difficulty about damping-off. Protection Against a Hot Sun or Strong Light. — Most seeds germinate best when darkened. Strong sunlight is objectionable. The pot, pan, or flat may be covered with wrapping paper or newspaper to exclude strong light, but air should not be entirely excluded. Setting the seed flat away on a shelf in a darkened basement works very well if it is removed to the light as soon as the seedlings begin to break the soil surface. Seeds planted in the open or in flats may be covered with burlap to provide shade until the seedlings begin to show. This cover- ing is very important during the hot summer months when the soil surface bakes very easily and interferes with proper germination. During the germination process the seed should be kept warm and moist. Daily sprinkling is advisable for many seeds; others will not require watering oftener than two or three times a week. Small seeds should be watered rather frequently. Seeds of the gladiolus or similar bulbs seem to germinate best when kept very wet. A cold frame helps germination a great deal early in the season when the weather is cool. is See also : Beinhart, E. G. Steam sterilization of seed beds for tobacco and other crops. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 996:1-15. 1918. 46 California Agricultural Extension Service [Gib. 53 The critical time for many flowering plants is during the first two weeks after germination. Any abnormal drying, sunburn, low or high temperatures, or very great changes in temperature will be likely to cause high mortality. A difference of 10 degrees Fahrenheit in temperature between night and day is not harmful, but great changes favor certain soil diseases such as damping-off. Much of this trouble can be avoided by growing the seedlings where they are protected from excessive temperature changes, and by closely watching the air and moisture. A close, damp atmosphere is ideal for the injurious soil fungi. If the surface of the seed flat or pan is sprinkled with sand or fine gravel it will dry off quickly after watering. Watering should be thorough when done, and then no more water should be added until the soil has again dried out to some extent. Shallow, frequent watering of young seedlings is a very dangerous practice. The seedling roots need to grow down and this is impossible where the soil beneath is kept saturated or remains dry. Experience will be needed to tell just when the seedlings need more water but it is less dangerous to water too little than too frequently. Some kinds of plants like the hothouse calceolarias are very particular about their watering and can be easily killed by watering twice a day when once is ample. Careful watch should be kept of all the young seedlings and if a few show signs of wilting and damping-off they should be put in a place with more air and watered less often. Just this little change may be all that is necessary, but in some kinds of plants extra precautions may be needed. The gardener has to choose between the perfect ventilation outside accompanied with wind and sun damage and the imperfect ventilation of the greenhouse and cold frame where it is considerably easier to regulate heat and moisture. He may have access to a greenhouse, a lath-house, or a cold frame, or at least some sheltered spot in the garden where the seedlings may be kept until they are ready for transplanting to flats or the open ground. The seedlings may be shifted as experience dictates. Damping-off of seedlings like those of petunias, delphiniums, and poppies can be partially avoided by giving more ventilation and by planting a little farther apart in the seed bed. Transplanting Seedlings to Flats. 19 As the seeds germinate in the seed pan or the seed flat they are usually too close to grow well for any great length of time. Transplanting the seedlings to flats will give them better aeration and more room for root development. The old 19 For trees and shrubs see : Mulf ord, F. L. Transplanting trees and shrubs. IT. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1591:1-34. 1929. 1931 1 Home Floriculture in California 47 claim that transplanting gives a better root system is probably true, but not for the reason sometimes offered ; there is evidence that the cutting back of the roots does not directly favor a better root system. However, if transplanting to flats does actually result in better growth then the practice is well justified. Transplanting to flats is universal among nurserymen and it fits in well with ordinary practice in the home garden. Closer attention can be given to the needs of the transplanted seedlings in flats than in the open ground. "While it is true that some kinds of flowers — for example, sweet peas and calen- dulas — seem to give just as good results when planted directly into the open ground as when transplanted, still there are many others which will give superior results in the open after first being trans- planted once or twice into seed flats. Certain other kinds of flowers fail to thrive if transplanted after they have reached considerable size. Schizanthus seedlings are an example. If transplanted when very young there will be little loss and the plants can be made to continue growth uninterrupted. They may be transplanted to pots and the potted plants taken to the open at blooming time, or the seedlings may be planted directly in the open ground when planting conditions are favorable. The standard flat is large enough to hold 60 to 75 plants of most seedlings. A month to six weeks, or at most two months, should be sufficient for the flat culture of ordinary annuals and herbaceous perennials. By that time the plants in the flat will need more room. Leaving the plants in the flat for a longer period will probably so stunt them that they will not do well after planting in the open. Snap- dragons and similar ornamentals subject to certain rusts are much more likely to be attacked if stunted than if they are allowed to make a good healthy growth. The seedlings in flats should be hardened before transplanting to the open ground. A week in the open sun with only a moderate amount of water will slow clown growth so that there will be minimum shock in transplanting. Succulent seedlings or rooted cuttings may be pinched back to counteract any loss of roots. Shading the first day or two is another guard against loss. The soil about the roots of all newly planted ornamentals should be firmed so that it will come into close contact with the feeding roots. Watering will aid in settling the soil. Viability of Seeds. — Seeds capable of germination are said to be viable. Most seeds sold have been tested for their ability to germinate under proper conditions; reliable seedsmen pride themselves on the 48 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 sale of only good flower seed. It pays to buy from seedsmen who are registered with the state and have established a good reputation. Occasionally seeds are harvested too green, or are kept too long before planting. Some seeds are injured during the harvesting and handling process. But the tendency of the beginner to blame the seed for failure to germinate is not very often justified. It is more likely that he has failed in one or more respects to give the seed the proper environment for successful germination. This includes mois- ture, heat, air, and light. In some cases parasites attack the seed before the sprout reaches the surface. Seeds planted when the ground is cold and wet have a very poor chance to germinate. Time for Seed Germination. — Records of seed germination are largely limited to vegetable and weed seeds. Many flower growers know the time it takes for various flower seeds to germinate, but the facts have not been published in most cases. The records listed in table 3 are only approximate. With the optimum degree of tempera- ture, the proper depth for planting, sufficient moisture and air, and fresh seed, germination will be most rapid. Old seed takes longer to germinate than fresh seed as a general rule. For example, some lily seed and dry orange, peach, or plum seed may not germinate until the second or even the third year. Some iris seed that fails to germin- ate the first year may scatter along until the fourth year. Delphinium seed germinates very well when planted soon after harvesting, as in August. These differences should be borne in mind when studying the table; the range listed may need to be lengthened to meet some conditions. 1931 Home Floriculture in California 49 TABLE 3 Germination Period for Various Flowering Plants (Based on California experience under favorable conditions) Acacia 3 weeks or more Ageratum 5-7 days Althea rosea (holly- hock) 5-7 days Antirrhinum (snap- dragon) 3 weeks Anchusa 3 weeks Arctotis 3 weeks Aster (michaelmas daisy) 2 weeks or more See also Callistephus (China aster) Babiana 6-8 weeks Balsam, see Impatiens Begonia 3-4 weeks Bellis (daisy) 5 days Browallia 3 weeks Cactus, see Opuntia, Cephalocereus, and Echinocactus Calceolaria 4 weeks Calendula 7-10 days Callistephus chinensis (China aster) 2 weeks Calonyction (moon- flower) 3 weeks Campanula medium 2 weeks some species 8 days Candytuft, see Iberis Carina 15 days or more Carnation, see Dianthus Ceanothus 2-3 months Celosia argentea var. cristata (cockscomb) 3 weeks Centaurea species 5 days Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus) 5-20 days or more Cheiranthus cheiri (wall-flower) 5-7 days Chrysanthemum cocci- neum (pyrethrum)....2-3 weeks C. maximum (Shasta daisy) 3 weeks C. morifolium (flor- ists' chrysanthe- mum) 5 days or more C. parthenium (fever- few) 3 weeks Cineraria 5-10 days Clematis 3 months to over 1 year Cleome 3 weeks Ccbea scandens 2 weeks Cockscomb, see Celosia Coreopsis 3 weeks Cosmos 5-7 days Cotoneaster 15 days or more Cyclamen 4 weeks Cymbalaria muralis (Kenilworth ivy) 5-7 days Cypress vine, see Quamoclit Dahlia 5-10 days Datura 2 weeks Delphinium 2 weeks or more Dianthus barbatus (sweet william) 10-14 days D. caryophyllus (car- nation) 1 month D. plumarius (spice pink) 5-7 days Digitalis (foxglove) 3 weeks Echinocactus (golden cactus) 5-20 days or more E schschollzia (Califor- nia poppy) 8 days Eucalyptus 6 weeks or more Fern, see Poly podium Feverfew, see Chrysanthemum Gaillardia 3 weeks Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) 3 weeks Geum 10 days or more Gladiolus 2 to 8 weeks Godetia 2 weeks Gourd, see Lagenaria Gypsophila 3 weeks Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 2 weeks Helichrysum (straw- flower) 5-7 days Heuchera 3 weeks Hibiscus 2 weeks or more Hippeastrum (hybrid amaryllis) 3-4 weeks Hollyhock, see Althea Hunnemannia 8 days Iberis (candytuft) 5 days Ipomea, with heat 4 weeks or more See also Calonyction I. purpurea (morning glory) 5 days or more Impatiens 2 weeks /. balsamina (balsam) 10 days or more Iris germanica 15 days to 3 mos. or more Kenilworth ivy, see Cymbalaria Kochia scoparia (sum- mer cypress); for colored foliage 2 weeks Lachenalia (Cape cow- slip) 4 weeks Lagenaria (dipper gourd) 2 weeks Larkspur, see Delphinium 50 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 TABLE 3— (Concluded) Lathyrus latifolius (per- ennial sweet pea) 3-4 weeks L. odoratus (sweet pea) 2 weeks Lavandula (lavender).. 3 weeks Lilium, most culti- vated species 2-6 weeks L. auratum, L. hum- boldti, and a few other species may require 1 year or more Linaria 5-7 days Linum (flax) 10 days Lobelia 10 days Lobularia mcritima (sweet alyssum) 5-7 days Lychnis 3 weeks Malcomia marilima (Vir- ginian stock) 5-7 days Marigold, see Tagetes and Calendula Mathiola (stock) 5-10 days Maurandia 3-4 weeks Mesembryanthemum 5-7 days Mignonette, see Reseda Myosotis (forget-me- not) 2 weeks Moonflower, see Calonyction Morning-glory, see Ipomea purpurea Nasturtium, see Tropeolum m,ajus Nemesia 10-15 days Nicotiana (flowering tobacco) 3 weeks Nigella (love-in-a- mist) 10 days Oenothera (evening primrose) 5-7 days Opuntia (prickly pear cactus) 5-20 days Pansy, see Viola Papaver nudicaule (Ice- land poppy) 2-3 weeks Peach, see Prunus Peonia suffructicosa (tree peony) 3 months or more Pentstemon 2 weeks Petunia 3 weeks Phas'eolus coccineus (scarlet runner bean) 7 to 10 days Phlox 3 weeks Pink, see Dianthus Platycodon (balloon flower) 1 month or more Plum, see Prunus Polypodium and other fern spores 15-30 days Poppy, see Papaver, Eschschcltzia, Hunnemannia, and Romneya Portulaca 3 weeks Primula (primrose) 2 weeks Prunus persica (peach) and P. cerasifera (cherry plum) 3-12 months Pyracantha (firethorn)2-6 weeks Pyrethrum, see Chrysanthemum coccineum Quamoclit pennata 5-7 days Reseda (mignonette)... .5-7 days Romneya (matilija or tree poppy) 6-12 weeks or more Salpiglossis 5-7 days Scabiosa 3 we e k s Scarlet runner bean, see Phaseolus Schizanthus (butterfly flower) 3 weeks Shasta daisy, see Chrysanthemum maximum Snapdragon, see Antirrhinum Stocks, see Mathiola Strelitzia (bird-of-para- dise flower) 4 months Streptanthera cuprea...A-Q weeks Sunflower, see Helianthus Sweet alyssum, see Lobularia Sweet pea, see Lathyrus Sweet william, see Dianthus Thalictrum 2-6 weeks Trachymene (blue lace flower or didiscus). .2 weeks Tropeolum majus (nasturtium) 8 days V erbascum phoeniceum (purple mullein) 8-10 days Verbena 8- 10 days Viola tricolor var. hor- fensis (pansy) 10-14 days V. cornuta (tufted pansy) 2-3 weeks Wallflower, see Cheiranthus Zinnia 5-7 days 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 51 PLANTING CALENDAR FOR THE YEAR Consideration has already been given to the selection of flowering plants for many purposes. The home gardener also has need for a planting calendar that will at least suggest what seeds, bulbs, roots, and nursery seedlings may be planted during any current month. The time may vary a month or more in some cases according to how late or how early the frosts may be in a community or in a garden. Only the more common plant materials will be included in the plant- ing calendar. The seeds may be secured from any seed store. The bulbs and roots will be available at seed stores and nurseries. The list of plants to be transplanted will include those which are generally sold in flats at local nurseries. Similar plants grown from seed in home gardens should be transplanted at the proper time. There will be many kinds of flowers available for planting that are less common, yet no less desirable. All plants named have been listed by California firms and should be available. Each home gardener may add to the list in the calendar. In using the planting calendar the reader may glance through the lists for the current month and select those flowers which are of most interest. The flowers are arranged alphabetically under the botanical names. Common names are given in parenthesis except when the botanical name is better known than any common name. Where there are both annual and perennial varieties of a plant the annuals will be marked (a) and the perennials (p). All flowers the seed of which should be planted in seed flats, seed pans, or pots are marked (/), even though some of these may do moderately well when planted in the open ground. 52 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 JANUARY Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) Achillea (/)* Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Bartonia Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calendula (pot marigold) (/) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Celosia (cockscomb or other species) (/) Cent our ea (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum carinatum (/; a) (tricolor chrysanthemum) Clarkia Clematis (/) Coreopsis lanceolata and C. grandi- flora (/ ; a) Cotoneaster (/) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium ajacis (larkspur) (a;f) Dianthus plumarius (pink) (/; p) D. caryophyllus (carnation) (/ ;p) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gilia Godetia Gypsophila elegans (a; /) and G. paniculata (baby's breath) (p ; f) Helenium Helipterum (Acroclinium) roseum (/) Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Lupinus (lupin) (/) Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) Nemophila insignis (baby blue-eyes) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) (/) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p; f), P. rheas (shirley poppy) (a) or other species Pentstemon (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Pyracantha (/) Reseda (mignonette) Salvia (flowering sage) (/) Scabiosa (a and p ; f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Bulbs and Roots Agapanthus Alstroemeria (Peruvian lily) Amaryllis belladonna Anemone Astilbe (herbaceous spirea) Begonia; tuberous-rooted Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Convallaria (lily-of-the-valley) Crocus Cyclamen Dicentra (bleeding heart) Dierama Discorea batatas (cinnamon vine) Freesia Galanthus (snowdrop) nyccinthus (hyacinth) Ixia Leucojum (snowflake) Lilium regale (regal lily) or other hardy species Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil), N. tazetta (China lily), and others Ornithogalum Peonia (peony) Platycodon (balloon flower) Polianthes (tuberose) Ranunculus Sparaxis tricolor Tigridia (tiger flower) Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Zephyranthes Candida (zephyr lily) * a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 53 Transplanting Aquilegia (columbine) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) and D. plumarius (pink) Deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, or hardy vines Evergreen trees and shrubs; hardy species only Mathiola incana (stock) Pentstemon Petunia Primula (primrose) Rosa (rose) Verbena Viola tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) FEBRUARY Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) (/)* Abutilon hybrids (/; a) Achillea (/) Ageratum (floss flower) (/) Althea rosea (hollyhock) (/) Anchusa (/) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Bartonia (/) Begonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calendula (pot marigold) (/) Callistephus (China aster) (/) Calonyction (moonflower) (/) Campanula (Canterbury bell) (/) Canna (/) Celosia (cockscomb or other species) (/) Centaurea (corn flower and other species) (a; f) Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy) (/ ; p) C. coccineum (pyre- thrum) (f ; p) , C. parthenium (feverfew or matricaria) (/ ; p) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Cineraria (/) Cistus (rock rose) (/) Clarkia Clematis (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (p;f) ^ Cosmos (/) Cotoneaster (/) Cyclamen (/) Dahlia (/) Delphinium hybrids (/) Dianthus plumarius (pink), D. caryo- phyllus (carnation), and D. barba- tus (sweet william) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dimorphotheca aurantiaca (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gaillardia pulchella (a) and G. aris- tata (p;f) Gerbera (/) Geum (/) Gilia Gloxinia (/) Godetia (/) Gomphrena (/) Gypsophila (a and p) Relenium autumnale (sneezeweed) (/) Helichrysum (straw flower) (/) Helipterum (Bhodanthe) manglesi (/), H. (Acroclinium) roseum (/) Humulus (hop vine) (/) Hunnemannia Iberis (candytuft) (/) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) (/) Ipomea purpurea (morning-glory) (/) Kochta (summer cypress) (/) Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Linaria maroccana (a) Linum (flax) (a) Lobelia (/) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Ljupinus (lupin) (/) Lychnis viscaria (viscaria) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stocks) Mathiola incana- var. annua (ten- weeks stock) Maurandia Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) i*;f) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) Nemesia (/) a--annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 54 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 S eebs — Co ntinue d Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) (/) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f), P. rheas (shirley poppy) (a), and P. orientate (Oriental poppy) (p;f) Pentsiemon (/) Petunia (/) Phlox drummondi (a; f) Portulaca (/) Primula (primrose) (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Pyracantha (firethorn) (/) Quamoclit lobata (/) Reseda (mignonette) Rudbeclcia (cone flower) (/) Salpiglossis (/) Salvia (flowering sage) (/) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a; f), S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (p,f), and S. columbaria (v;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) (/) Thunbergia (/) Trachymene (blue lace-flower) (/) Tropeolum ma jus (nasturtium) Verbena (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and V. tricolor var. liortensis (pansy) (v;f) Zinnia (/) Bulbs aot> Roots Aga/pantli-us Alstroemeria (Peruvian lily) Amaryllis belladonna Anemone Astilbe (herbaceous spirea) Begonia; tuberous-rooted Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Convallaria (lily-of-the-valley) Crocus Cyclamen Dicentra (bleeding heart) Discoria batatas (cinnamon vine) Freesia Galantlius ( snowdrop ) Gladiolus Gloxinia Leueojum (snowflake) Lilium regale (regal lily) and other hardy species Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil), N. poeticus, and other late species Nymphea (hardy water lily) Peonia (peony) Platycodon (balloon flower) Poliantlies (tuberose) Ranunculus Sparaxis tricolor Tigridia (tiger flower) Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Zephyranthes (zephyr lily) Transplanting Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Aquilegia (columbine) Calceolaria ; shrubby species Campanula medium (Canterbury bell) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum), C. maximum (Shasta, daisy) Deciduous shrubs and trees, or vines Delphinium Digitalis (foxglove) Evergreen shrubs and trees, or vines; hardy species Heuchera (coral bells) Mathiola incana (stock) Pentstemon Petunia Phlox (p) Primula (primrose) Rosa (rose) Salpiglossis Scal)iosa caucasica (blue bonnet) and S. columbaria Verbena Viola tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 55 MARCH Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) Abutilon hybrids Ageratum (floss flower) (/)* Althea rosea (hollyhock) Anchusa (/) A ntirrhinum ( snapdragon ) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) Aubretia Bartonia Begonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Brachycome Calendula (pot marigold) Callistephus (China aster) (/) Colony ction (moonflower) (/) Campanula (/) Canna (/) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) (/) Centaur ea cyanus (cornflower) (a) and C. moschata (sweet sultan) Cercis (red bud) (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (p; f), C. maximum (Shasta daisy) (p;f) and C. parthenium (feverfew) (p ; f) Cineraria Cistus (rock rose) (/) Clarlcia Clematis (/) Cobea Coreopsis tinctoria (calliopsis) (a), C. lanceolata and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) (p) Cosmos (/) Cotoneaster (/) Cyclamen (/) Dahlia Delphinium ajacis (larkspur) (a) Dianthus plumarius (spice pink) (p;f), D. caryophyllus (carnation) (P l f) an d -£*• barbatus (sweet will- iam) (p;f) Digitalis (foxglove) Dimorphotheca (/) Dolichis lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholt2ia (California poppy) Gaillardia pulchella (a) and G-. aris- tata (p;f) Gerbera jamesoni (Transvaal daisy) (/) Geum (/) Gilia Gloxinia (/) Godetia Gomphrena (globe amaranth) Gypsophila elegans (a) and G. panni- oulata (baby's breath) (p ; f) Helenium (sneezeweed) Helianthus (sunflower) Helichrysum (strawflower) Heliopsis Helipterum (Bhodanthe) manglesi and 3. (Acroclinium) roseum Iberis (candytuft) (a) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) (/) Ipomea purpurea (morning-glory) (a) Kochia (summer cypress) (/) Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavatera (tree mallow) (£>) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Linaria maroccana (a) Linum (flax) (a) Lobelia (/) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Lupinus (lupin) (/) Lychnis viscaria (viscaria) Alalcomia maritima (Virginian stock) Mathiola incana var. annua (ten- weeks stock) (/) Maurandia Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) («<;/) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Nemesia (/) Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nicotiana (flowering tobacco) (/) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f), P. orientate (Oriental pop- py) (p;f)i and -P- rheas (shirley poppy) (a) Pentstemon Petunia (/) Phlox drummondi (a; f) Portulaca Primula polyantha, P. veris, and P. elatior (primrose) (p ; f) Pueraria (kudzu vine) * a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 56 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Seeds — Continued Pyracantha (firethorn) (/) Quamoclit lobata (/) Reseda odorata (mignonette) Eudbeckia (coneflower) (a and p) Salpiglossis (/) Salvia (flowering sage) (/) Scdbiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a), S. caucasica (blue bon- net) (p ; f) and S. columbaria (v;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Tagetes (French and African mari- gold) Thalictrum (meadow rue) (/) Thunbergia (/) Trachymene (blue lace-flower or didiscus) (/) Tropeolum ma jus (nasturtium) Verbena (f) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and tricolor var. hortensis (pansv) (p;f) Zinnia (/) Bulbs and Roots Agapanthus Amaryllis Antignon (rosa de montana) Astilbe (herbaceous spirea) Begonia; tuberous-rooted Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Convallaria (lily-of -the- valley) Cyclamen Dahlia, Dicentra (bleeding heart) Discoria batatas (cinnamon vine) Freesia Galanthus (snowdrop) Gladiolus Gloxinia Leucojum (snowflake) Nymphea (hardy water lily) Peonia (peony) Poliantlies (tuberose) Tigridia (tiger flower) Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Zephyranthes (zephyr lily) Transplanting Begonia Calceolaria Callistephus (China aster) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) Centaurea Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum), C. maximum (Shasta daisy) Coreopsis tinctoria (calliopsis), C. lanceolata, and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) Deciduous trees and shrubs, or vines Delphinium hybrids (perennial lark- spur) Evergreen shrubs and trees, or vines ; hardy species Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) Geum Heuchera Kochia Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) and P. orient ale (Oriental poppy) Rock plants Eosa (rose) Salpiglossis Salvia (flowering sage) Scab iosa- caucasica (blue bonnet) and S. columbaria Verbena 1931] Home Floriculture in California 57 APRIL Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) Abutilon Ageratum (floss flower) Althea rosea (hollyhock) Amaranthits (/)* Anchusa (/) Anemone coronaria (p ; f) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) Aubretia Bartonia Bellis perennis (English daisy) Calendula (pot marigold) Callistephus (China aster) (/) Colony ction (moonflower) (/) Campanula (/) Canna (/) Cardiospermum halicacdbum (balloon vine) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) (/) Celsia cretica (/) Centaur ea eyanus (cornflower) and C. moschata (sweet sultan) (a; f) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (p;f r ), C. maximum (Shasta daisy) (p; f), C. parthenium (fever- few) (p;f), and C. morifolium (florists' chrysanthemum) (p ; f) Cineraria (/) Clarlcia Clematis (/) Cobea; place in 3-inch pots Coreopsis tinctoria (calliopsis) (a), C. lanceolata, and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) (p) Cosmos (/) Dahlia (/) Delphinium hybrids (p ; f) Dianthus plumarius (pink) (p;f),D. caryophyllus (carnation) (p;f), and D. barbatus (sweet william) (p;f) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dimorphotheca (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gaillardia pulchella (a) and G. aris- tata (p; f) Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) (/) Geum (/) Gilia Gladiolus Godetia Gomphrena (globe amaranth) (/) Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a ; p) Hclenium (sneezeweed) Helianthus (sunflower) Helichrysum (strawflower) Jleliopsis Helipterum (Ehodanthe) manglesi (f),H. (Acroclinium) roseum (/) Humulus (hop vine) TLunnemannia Iberis (candytuft) (a) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) (a) Ipomoea purpurea (morning-glory) (a) Koehia (summer cypress) (/) Lagenaria (ornamental gourd) Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lavatera (tree mallow) (p) Dinar ia maroccana (a) Linum (flax) Lobelia (/) Lupinus (lupin) (/) Lychnis viscaria (viscaria) (/) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stocks) Malope Mathiola incana var. annua (ten- weeks stock) Nemesia Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nicotiana (flowering tobacco) (/) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) Oenothera (evening primrose) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f), P. rhoeas (shirley poppy) (a), and P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (v;f) Petunia (/) Phlox drummondi (annual phlox) Portulaca Primula (primrose) (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Quamoclit sloteri (cardinal climber) (a), Q. pennata (cypress vine) (a), and Q. lobata (p ; f) fiudbeckia (coneflower) Salpiglossis (f) * a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 58 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Seeds — Continued Salvia (flowering sage) (/) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a), S. caucasica (blue bon- net) (p;f), and S. columbaria' (v;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds ) Thalictrum (meadow rue) (/) Thunbergia Tithonia (/) Trachymene (blue lace-flower) (/) Tropeolum ma jus (nasturtium) Valeriana (valerian) (p ; f) Verbena (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (v;f) Zinnia (/) Bulbs and Roots Agapanthus Begonia ; tuberous-rooted Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Dahlia Dicentra (bleeding heart) Dioscorea batatas (cinnamon vine) Freesia Gladiolus Gloxinia Nymphea (hardy water lily) Pconia (peony) Polianthes (tuberose) Watsonia Transplanting Antirrhinum ( snapdragon ) Aquilegia (columbine) Begonia; tuberous-rooted and fibrous- rooted Calceolaria Callistephus (China aster) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) Centaurea Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- tlirum) C. maximum (Shasta daisy), C. morifolium (florists ' chrysanthe- mum ) Cineraria Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Delphinium hybrid Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) and D. barbatus (sweet william) Digitalis Gaillardia aristata Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) Geum Kochia scoparia (summer cypress) Mathiola incana var. annua (ten- weeks stock) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Pentstemon Petunia Phlox Rock plants Salpiglossis Salvia (flowering sage) Scabiosa caucasica (blue bonnet) and S. columbaria Statice Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Verbena Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) Zinnia 1931 Home Floriculture in California 59 MAY Seeds Abutilon Abronia (sand verbena) Ageratum (floss flower) Althea rosea (hollyhock) Amaranthus Anemone (/)* Arctotis (African blue daisy) Bellis perennis (English daisy) Callisteplius (China aster) (/) Calonyction (moonflower) (/) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) (/) Centaur ea (cornflower and sweet sul- tan) (/) Cineraria (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (p) ClarTcia Cobea; plant in 3-inch pots Coreopsis tinctoria (calliopsis) (a), C. lanceolata (p) , and C. grandiflora (coreopsis) (p) Cosmos (/) Dahlia (/) Delphinium hybrids (p ; f) Dianthus plumarius (pink), D. cary- ophyllus (carnation) (p ; f) Dimorpliotheca (f) Lsclischoltzia (California poppy) Gaillardia pulchella (a), and G. aris- tata (p ; f) Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) (/) Genm (/) Gilia Godetia Gomphrena (globe amaranth) (/) Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a) Helenium (sneezeweed) Relianth us ( sunflower ) Helich rysum ( strawflower ) Heliopsis Helipterum (Aeroclinium) roseum (/) Humulus (hop vine) Runnemannia Iberis (candytuft) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) Ipomoea purpurea (morning-glory) Kochia scoparia (summer cypress) (/) Lagenaria (ornamental gourd) Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lavatera (tree mallow) (p) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Linaria maroccana (/) Linum (flax) (a) Lobelia (/) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lupinus (lupin) (/) Lychnis visoaria (viscaria) (/) Malope Mathiola inoana var. annua (ten- weeks stock) and other forms Maurandia Myosotis (forget-me-not) N ernes ia Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nieotiana (flowering tobacco) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Petunia (/) Phlox (a) Portulaca Primula (primrose) (/) Quamoclit pennata (cypress vine) and Q. lob at a Eudbeclcia (coneflower) (a and p) Salpiglossis Salvia (flowering sage) (/) Scahiosa. atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a) Sehizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Thunbergia Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) (/) Zinnia Bulbs and Boots Begonia ; tuberous-rooted Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Dahlia Dioscorea batatas (cinnamon vine) Gladiolus Gloxinia Nymphea (water lily) Peonia (peony) Polianthes (tuberose) Watsonm a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 60 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Transplanting Althea rosea (hollyhock) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Begonia; tuberous-rooted and fibrous- rooted Bellis perennis (English daisy) Callistephus (China aster) Centaur ea (cornflower and sweet sul- tan) Chrysanthemum morifolium (florists' chrysanthemum) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Delphinium hybrids Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) and D. barbatus (sweet william) Gaillardia aristata Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) Kochia scoparia (summer cypress) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) Pentstemon Petunia Rock plants Salvia (flowering sage) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) V< rbena Zinnia JUNE Seeds Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/)* Calendula (pot marigold) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) (/) Centaurea (cornflower and sweet sul- tan) (/) Chrysanthemum morifolium (florists' chrysanthemum) (/) Cineraria (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Delphinium hybrid (/) Dianthus barbatus (sweet william) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Gaillardia aristata Gilia Gladiolus; shade the bed Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a) Iberis (candytuft) Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavatera (tree mallow) Linaria maroccana (a) Linum (flax) (a) Lychnis viscaria (viscaria) Mathiola incana (stock) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Petunia (/) Phlox (a) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppv) (/) Portulaca Salpiglossis (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Tropeolum ma jus (nasturtium) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) (/) Zinnia Bulbs and Roots Boussingaultia (Madeira vine) Canna Dahlia Dioscorea batatas (cinnamon vine) Gladiolus Iris germanica (German iris) Polianthes (tuberose) a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 61 Transplanting Ageratum (floss flower) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Begonia; tuberous-rooted and fibrous- rooted Bellis perennis (English daisy) Callistephus (China aster) Celosia (cockscomb and other species) Centaurea (cornflower and sweet sul- tan) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) Impatiens balsamina (balsam) MatMola incana (stock) Pentstemon Petunia Salvia (flowering sage) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Viola odorata (violet) and V. cornuta (tufted pansy) Zinnia JULY Seeds Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/)* Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calceolaria (/) Calendula (pot marigold) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Centaurea (cornflower and sweet sul- tan) Cineraria (/) Cosmos Delphinium hybrid (/) Iberis (candytuft) Lobelia (/) MatMola incana (stock) Phlox Portulaca Primula polyantha (polyanthus primrose) (/) Salpiglossis (/) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Tropeolum majus (nasturtium) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (/) Zinnia Bulbs and Boots Iris germanica (German iris) Transplanting Bellis perennis (English daisy) Centaurea moschata (sweet sultan) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) Digitalis (foxglove) Gaillardia aristata Iberis (candytuft) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Petunia Phlox Salpiglossis Scabiosa columbaria Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Viola odorata (violet) * a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 62 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Gir - 53 AUGUST Seeds Acacia (/)* Achillea (/) Althea rosea (hollyhock) Ancliusa (/) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Aster novi-belgi (New York aster or michaelmas daisy) (/) Begonia (/) Browallia (/) Calceolaria (/) Calendula (pot marigold) Campanula (Canterbury bells) (/) Ceanothus (wild lilac) (/) Centaurea (corn flower) (a) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (/) Cineraria. (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (/) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium hybrid (/) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Gaillardia aristata (p ; f) Gerbera (/) Geum (/) Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a) Helenium (/) Heliopsis Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Lobelia (/) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Matlriola incana (stock) (/) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) P< ntstemon (/) Petunia (/) Phlox (/) Physostegiu (false dragonhead) (/) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f), and P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (p;f) Primula (primrose) (/) Salpiglossis (/) Scabiosa caucasica (blue bonnet) (p ; /), and S. columbaria (p ; f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) (/) Tropeolum majus (nasturtium) Verbena (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pa.nsy) (v;f) Bulbs and Boots Cyclamen Freesia Iris germanica (German iris) Lapeirousia cruenta (flame freesia) Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) Omithogalum Oxalis Ranunculus Zantedescliia (calla) Transplanting Bellis perennis (English daisy) Centaurea (sweet sultan) Cineraria Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) Cosmos Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) Digitalis (foxglove) Gaillardia aristata Iberis (candytuft) Phlox Petunia Salpiglossis Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) Viola odorata (violet) and V. tricolor (pansy) * a-annual species ; p-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 1931 Home Floriculture in California 63 SEPTEMBER Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) (/)* A~butilon (/) Achillea (/) Althea rosea (hollyhock) (/) Anchusa (/) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Aster (michaelmas daisy) (/) Bartonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calendula (pot marigold) (/) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Ceanothus (wild lilac) (/) Centaur ea (sweet sultan) (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum parthenium (fever- few) (p;f), and C. coccineum (pyrethrum) (p ; f) Cineraria (/) ClarTcia Clematis (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (p;f) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium hybrid (/) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) (/) and D. barbatus (sweet william) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dimorphotheca (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gaillardia aristata (p ; f) Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) (/) Geum (/) Gilia Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) (p ; f) Helenium (sneezeweed) Heliopsis Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Linum (flax) (/) Lupinus (lupin) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Mathiola incana (stock) (/) Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) Nemesia N emophila (baby blue-eyes) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f) and P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (p;f) Pentstemon (/) Petunia (/) Phlox drummondi (a) Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. veris (cowslip), P. elatior (ox- slip), and P. polyantha (polyanthus primrose) (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Salpiglossis (/) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a;f), S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (p;f), and S. columbaria (p;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (f) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) (/) Verbena (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) (/) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (/) Bulbs and Boots Allium Amaryllis Anemone Bloomeria Brodiea Calochortus (Mariposa lily) Crocus Cyclamen Freesia Galanthus (snowdrop) Gladiolus; early Iris; all species Ixia Lachenalia (Cape cowslip) Lapeirousia cruenta (flame freesia) Leucojum (snowflake) Lilium (lily) ; most species Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil), N. jonquilla (jonquil), and other species Ornithogalum Oxalis Ranunculus S cilia Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) a-annual species; p-perennial species; /-plant in flat. 64 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cut. 53 Transplanting Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) Centaurea Cineraria Cosmos Eremurus Lobelia Mathiola incana (stock) Viola odorata (violet) and V. tricolor (pansy) OCTOBER Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) (/)'* Abutilon (/) Achillea (/) Althea rosea (hollyhock) (/) Anchusa (/) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Bartonia (/) Begonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calceolaria ; hothouse species (/) Calendula (pot marigold) (/) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Centaurea (sweet sultan) (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (/) and C. maximum Cineraria (/) Clarhia Clematis (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (/) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium hybrid and D. ajacis (larkspur) (/) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) (/) and D. barbatus (sweet william) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dimorphotheca (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gaillardia aristata (p ; f) Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) (/) Geum (/) Gilia Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) (p ; f) Helenium (sneezeweed) Heliopsis Helipterum (Acroclinium) roseum (/) Iberis amara (candytuft) ; in warm districts Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Linum (flax) (/) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Lupinus (lupin) Lychnis chalcedonica (maltese cross) (p;f) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stock) Mathiola incana (stock) (/) Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) Nemesia Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nigella damascena (love-in-a-mist) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f), P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (p;f) Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. veris (cowslip), P. elatior (ox- slip), and P. polyantha (poly- anthus primrose) (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Ranunculus Reseda (mignonette) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a;f), S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (p;f), and S. columbaria (p;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Taqetes (African and French mari- golds) (/) Verbena (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) (/) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (/) * rt-annual species; p-perennial species; /-plant in flat. 1931 Home Floriculture in California 65 Bulbs and Boots Aconitum (aconite) Agapanthus Amaryllis belladonna Anemone Bloomeria Brodiaea Caloclwrtus (Mariposa lily) Crocus Cyclamen Erythronium (dogtooth violet) Freesia Galanthus (snowdrop) Gladiolus; early Hyacinthus (hyacinth) Iris; all species Ixia Lachenalia (Cape cowslip) Aquilegia (columbine) Calendula (pot marigold) Cineraria Dianthus plumarius (pink) Lobelia Mathiola incana (stock) Petunia Lapeirousia cruenta (flame freesia) Lilium (lily) ; most species Muscari (grape hyacinth) Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil) N. jonquilla (jonquil), and other species Ornithogalum Oxalis Peonia (peony) Ranunculus S cilia Spar axis Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Transplanting Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. veris (cowslip), P. elatior (ox- slip), and P. polyantha (polyanthus primrose) Verbena Viola odorata (violet) and V. tricolor (pansy) NOVEMBER Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) (/)* Achillea (/) Althea rosea (hollyhock) (/) Antirrhinum (snapdragon) (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Bartonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calendula* (pot marigold) (/) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Centaurea (sweet sultan) (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (p ; f) and C. maximum (Shasta daisy) (p ; f) Clarkia Clematis (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (/) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium hybrid and D. ajacis (larkspur) (/) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) (/) and D. barbatus (sweet william) (/) Digitalis (foxglove) (/) Dimorphotheca (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gaillardia aristata (p ; /) Gerbera (Transvaal daisy) (/) Geum (/) Gilia Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a and p; /) Helenium (sneezeweed) Heliopsis Helipterum (Acroclinium) roseum Iberis amara (candytuft) Lathyrus odorata (sweet pea) Lavandula (lavender) (/) Lilium (/) Linum (flax) (/) * a-annual species ; ^-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 66 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir.53 Seeds — Continued Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Lupinus (lupin) (/) Malcomia maritima (Virginian stock) Mathiola incana (stock) (/) Mimulus mosclmtus (musk plant) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) Nemesia Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nigella damascena (love-in-the-mist) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p ; f) and P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (v;f) Pentstemon (/) Petunia (/) Phlox {f) Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. veris (cowslip), P. elatior (ox- slip), and P. polyantha (polyanthus primrose) (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Ranunculus Reseda (mignonette) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a;f), S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (p;f), and S. columbaria (p;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice (/) Tagetes (African and French mari- golds) (/) Verbena hybrida (/) Viola cornuta (tufted pansy) (/) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (/) Bulbs and Koots Aconitum (aconite) Agapa7ithus Alstroemeria (Peruvian lily) Amaryllis belladonna Anemone Bloomeria Brodiea Calochortus (Mariposa lily) Crocus Cyclamen Dicentra (bleeding heart) Dierama Erythronium (dogtooth violet) Freesia Fritillaria Galanthus (snowdrop) Gladiolus; early Hyacinthus (hyacinth) 7m; all species Ixia Lachenalia (Cape cowslip) Lapeirousia cruenta (flame freesia) Leucojum (snowflake) Lilium (lily) ; most species Muscari (grape hyacinth) Narcissus pseudo-narcissus (daffodil), N. jonquilla (jonquil), and other species Ornitliogalum Oxalis Peonia (peony) Platycodon (balloon flower) Ranunculus S cilia Sparaxis Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Transplanting Antirrhinum (snapdragon) Aquilegia (columbine) Calendula (pot marigold) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) Cineraria Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) Digitalis (foxglove) Iberis (candytuft) Mathiola incana (stock) Myosotis (forget-me-not) Pentstemon Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), P. veris (cowslip), P. elatior (ox- slip) and P. polyantha (polyanthus primrose) Verbena Viola odorata (violet) and V. tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 67 DECEMBER Seeds Abronia (sand verbena) (/)* Achillea (/) Antirrhinum (/) Aquilegia (columbine) (/) Arctotis (African blue daisy) (/) Bartonia (/) Bellis perennis (English daisy) (/) Calendula (pot marigold) (/) Campanula medium (Canterbury bells) (/) Centaurea (sweet sultan) (/) Cheiranthus (wallflower) (/) Chrysanthemum coccineum (pyre- thrum) (/) and C. carinatum (tri- color chrysanthemum) (a) Clarl'ia Clematis (/) Coreopsis grandiflora (coreopsis) (/) and C. tinctoria (calliopsis) (/) Cyclamen (/) Delphinium hybrids and D. ajaeis (larkspur) (/) Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation) (p ; f) and D. barbatus (sweet william) (/) Dolichos lignosus (Australian pea) Eschscholtzia (California poppy) Gilia Godetia Gypsophila (baby's breath) (a and p; f) Bulbs Aconitum (aconite) Agapanthus Alstremeria (Peruvian lily) Amaryllis belladonna Anemone Astilbe (herbaceous spiraea) Convallaria (lily-of- the- valley) Crocus Cyclamen Dicentra (bleeding heart) Dierama Erythronium (dogtooth violet) Freesia Fritillaria Galanthus (snowdrop) Gladiolus Gloxinia Hyacinthus (hyacinth) Iris; bulbous Ixia Selenium (sneeze weed) Helipterum (Acroclinium) roseum (/) Iberis (candytuft) ; warm districts Lathy rus odorata (sweet pea) Lobularia maritima (sweet alyssum) Lunaria (honesty plant) (/) Lupinus (lupin) Mathiola incana (stock) (/) Mimulus moschatus (musk plant) Myosotis (forget-me-not) (/) . Nemesia Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) Nigella damascena (love-in-the-mist) Papaver nudicaule (Iceland poppy) (p;f) and P. orientale (Oriental poppy) (p;f) Pentstemon (/) Phlox (/) Pueraria (kudzu vine) (/) Reseda (mignonette) Scabiosa atropurpurea (mourning bride) (a-;/), S. caucasica (blue bonnet) (p;f), and S. columbaria (p;f) Schizanthus (butterfly flower) (/) Statice Viola tricolor var. hortensis (pansy) (/) and Boots Leucojum (snowflake) Lilium (lily) ; most species Muscari (grape hyacinth) Narcissus pseudo -narcissus (daffodil), N. jonquttla (jonquil), and other species Ornithogalum Oxalis Peonia (peony) Platycodon (balloon flower) Ranunculus Scilla Sparaxis Tigridia (tiger flower) Tritonia hybrid (montbretia) Tulipa (tulip) Watsonia Zantedeschia (calla) Zephyranthes Candida (zephyr lily) Transplanting Ageratum (floss flower) * a-annual species ; ^-perennial species ; /-plant in flat. 68 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 TIME TO START CUTTINGS While the environment has much to do with the time plants start growth in the spring and ripen their wood in the fall, still it is possible to give approximate dates for starting certain cuttings. The following dates are listed primarily for the coastal and Great Valley areas, but gardeners in most regions of the state should find the following dates approximately correct. The gardener should watch the local climatic conditions and the way the plants respond, then make such local changes in the dates mentioned as seem to be desirable. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 69 £3 < Co g 3 O orq cc » 3 a i — 'CD ' — ar<5 § §-£ § 3 § s 3 O-P o CO CD 00 | TO^~£tr§- a ^ "^ o~ V e* -* § cd ?C5 "^ § g ' is ^ -^ to CD CD § -$ O o CD s= PT .. CD 5 2 o B ff St'T'S - r+ ee P 2 5 g 1 CD a ~:£ < a pa * p. <.3- a 5: §5 p 2 a CD a ^ a to 9 - s ° '&■< p 3 53 » . a ^ § SS.g P.^ TO CD . ^ ►rj 3 £* s _^co orq g:g o *5 °= • IS g-a £"?« g-TO-O a gjO a cd g.CD-0 OQfQ hj TO *•" 3 Co p S 3. CO a *— ^ a b a h-. CD O ^4-C~; TO rc Cc g - a a 53 a C5 Si-s eq e to ^u O 3 « P- g8 3 Z2 CD CD CO O • - Go ^ CD ^^ a ^ c ^to - 9^ 3 &S CD CD go go a'cD co o IS p-g O ^ S-C^ TO CO a ^- £ CD £• p 5s- CD co 3 2 p 7 co T" <^ a c+- l.rl a to co a 13- a- p 5 a a g; o- ^ « s 9 » 8" § S : a-g-^ » ^ P'ps ^ co I'^cT'S^ to S*S»2 cd o O o a-<< g'^S. p o "^ o a to crq r ^ s P to^ S ^t^^^bbo o TO a a X p Co' p SS ' — ' S £ a ™ p 2 pS.» 00 P -h'-v s. . -3" CD r-t- ° P S--C p»ra P cd -^ 3 CO h-. gO ^> "i ^~ «a co a g to a §3*§ §Ta |-§ g a- to v- a "- 1-^ a cd a -j CO CD C-p go p -■CD P V- 3 i-s CD p 3 CD CD p TO -$ 5g a .a'a' 5J a»- p P 3 CD CO CD § a' i to ?: co 3 70 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 HINTS ON THE CULTURE OF SOME ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS 20 ASTER (CHINA) ( Cullistephus ch in < nsis ) Fig. 9. — The China aster is one of the most popular annuals in California gardens during July and August. Many types and colors are available. The Comet type is shown. Growers have a big choice in types and varieties of this popular flower. Asters are in their best bloom from July to September in Cali- fornia, Among the most popular types might be mentioned the Ameri- can Beauty, with flat, straight petals ; the King, with quilled needle- like petals; Comet (Crego or Giant-branching), with large flowers and curled or twisted petals, stem long and strong (fig. 9) ; Semples or Late-branching, similar to the Comet ; Ostrich Plume, with large, loose, feathery heads like a chrysanthemum ; Giants of California, similar 20 Annual flowering plants discussed here include those plants normally grown from seed each season. For further reference see: Corbett, L. C. Growing annual flowering plants. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1171:1-62. 1929. 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 71 to Ostrich Plume but center petals not so curled ; Sunshine or im- proved anemone-flowered asters; Single, with only ray petals; and Pompon asters, bearing numerous miniature flowers. Asters may be grown from seeds planted in flats at home, or small plants may be purchased from nurserymen. The principal points to watch are : selection of good varieties, rotation to prevent the develop- ment of disease, and proper control of yellows, stem rot, and root aphis. Stem rot or wilt is due to a fusarium fungus that rots off the stems of large plants near the surface of the ground. It is hard to control, but growing seedlings in sterilized soil and avoiding excessive moisture around the plants will help. The root aphis also attacks the stems just below the surface of the ground and may do serious damage unless killed with nicodust. Aster yellows is a virus disease spread by aphis or other insects, and therefore it is highly desirable to control aphis and rotate occasionally. Plants which are attacked with yellows might as well be pulled up and burned, for they are worthless. Screening against insect carriers may help. CALENDULA Calendulas or pot marigolds have been greatly improved in recent years and are particularly valuable for winter bloom in California, a time when flowers are rather scarce. Popular varieties include Camp- fire, or Sensation (fig. 10), Ball's Orange, Orange King, Lemon King, Radio, the Ball, and Meteor. Some of the new varieties are used mostly for forcing in commercial work, but those like Campfire do well outside. No serious pests or diseases occur, and the plants are hardy outside in most districts. CALIFORNIA POPPY (Eschscholtzia) This native flower is so common that many people ignore its great beauty. The principal difficulty with it is the weedy appearance that follows the early bloom. This may be avoided to some extent by treating it as an annual and removing it after the best blooms are over, or by cutting back the stems and allowing new growth to come up, if it is treated as a perennial. The original deep-orange color is still very popular, but other excellent varieties that are now available include: Ramona, a frilled variety (fig. 11) ; Vesuvius, wallflower-red; Scarlet Beauty, deep scarlet ; and Geisha, fluted. There are also double varieties. No serious pests occur. 72 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Fig. 10. — The calendula or pot marigold has been greatly improved by the addition of such varieties as Campfire (Sensation) shown above. It is a very important flower because it blooms well in the cool months of the year when other flowers are scarce. (Photograph supplied by Chas. C. Navlet Co.) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 73 LARKSPUR (Delp Illinium ajacis) Larkspur or annual delphinium, a well-known hardy annual, is often planted in the fall for early spring or summer bloom. Recently the stock-flowered varieties have given new interest (fig. 12). La France, Exquisite Pink Improved, and Los Angeles are three good varieties. The principal troubles include red spider and occasionally a blackening of the stem, the cause of which has not yet been definitely determined. Good irrigation and good soil will prevent most of the trouble in home gardens. Fig. 11. — The California poppy (Eschscholtzia) , the state flower, is probably prized more in other states and countries than here, and yet the many excellent varieties should be grown more in home gardens. The variety shown is Kamona, one of the frilled forms. (Photograph by courtesy of John Bodger and Sons Co.) PANSY AND VIOLA Usually the pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis) is treated as an annual, though it will persist for several seasons in a mild climate. Formerly separate strains of pansies with fairly definite char- acteristics were known to seedsmen, but some of these strains are not so distinct at the present time because of the crossing that has taken place. However, seedsmen still list many strains, such as Giant Trimardeau, Giant Cassier, Swiss Giants or Swiss Roggli, Mastodon, Bugnot, and more recently the strains of Steele, Ellis, and others. 74 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Fig. 12. — The new stock-flowered larkspurs are a wonderful improvement over the old garden annual as shown by the mass of tall spikes. Exquisite Pink Im- proved is the variety illustrated. (Photograph by courtesy of Chas. C. Navlet Co.) 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 75 The home gardener will only occasionally go to the trouble of growing plants himself when well-established plants can easily be purchased from nurserymen. Nurserymen, however, usually carry only ordinary strains. They rarely feel they can afford to pay from $25.00 to $35.00 an ounce for seed, as might be necessary for some of the large- flowered strains, such as the Swiss Giants and Steele's Giants, and then to retail plants for 35 to 50 cents a dozen, although this is actually being done in some cases. Gardeners who want the very best are more likely to get it by planting seed at home, unless some enter- prising local nurseryman is specializing in fancy pansies. Pansies like a cool moist situation but enough heat to make good growth. An east exposure with a free circulation of air is fine. Full sun for half or three-quarters of the day is usually desirable. A sunny exposure will be least subject to attacks of slugs, snails, sowbugs, and cutworms. More sun will be tolerated near the coast than inland. Extra shade may be provided where a hot sun is troublesome. Mulch- ing with peat, leaf mold, or manure will help to keep the soil moist and cool about the plants. This mulching is very important for the best flowers. When pansy plants are set out, they should be protected from the sun for a day or so by shading with a shingle or piece of paper. The soil should be rich, deep, and well drained. Pansies should be fertilized very liberally with a cool manure like cow manure. If further feeding is needed, add a little liquid manure, liquid commer- cial fertilizer, or soot water from time to time, but keep these liquid fertilizers off the foliage. Old flowers should be removed to prevent an early decline on account of seed setting. Weeds should be kept down. Watering may be needed once a day, or possibly morning and evening in the driest weather. Slugs, snails, sowbugs, and cutworms, if present, should be controlled by scattering bran mash about. If pansies are to be grown from seed, good seed should be used, but it makes little difference whether the seed comes from Oregon, England, France, or Switzerland, so long as the color meets the grower's approval. The seed should not be started until local growing conditions are good. In heavy, cold, moist soils it may be best not to set the plants in the open until the weather warms up in the spring. If winter conditions are mild then the fall-grown plants will be likely to prove satisfactory. Since early deep rooting is desirable, planting should be done as soon as conditions promise to be satisfactory. Out- side temperatures of 50° Fahrenheit are needed before much root growth can be expected. Seed may be started about two months before 76 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cut. 53 the time for planting* outside. More time will be needed if the growth is slow on account of cool weather. Seedlings 1 inch high may be set in the flats and these in turn will be ready for the outside when they are 3 or 4 inches high. Unless the pansies are given regular attention they may be inferior in size of bloom. Fig. 13. — A dwarf strain of the large California Ruffled Giant petunias has recently been introduced and should prove valuable for potting. (Photograph by courtesy of Chas. C. Navlet Co.) Violas or tufted pansies {Viola cornuta) are valued for massing and some kinds, such as Jersey Gem, live more than one year. Popular varieties include Jersey Gem, Lavender Gem, Papillio, Apricot Queen, Cyclops, Blue Perfection, Radio, and Lutea splendens. Varieties like Jersey Jewel are intermediate between the pansy and the V. cornuta type but have the long blooming habit of the latter. Still other hybrids more like the pansy than the viola are available. The colors of violas may be listed as white, yellow or apricot, blue or violet, and variegated. Many varieties are available in these differ- ent color ranges. PETUNIA The small weedy petunias of our grandmothers' gardens are not to be confused with the improved varieties of today. There is still need for the small, single-flowered varieties and dwarf plants for bedding purposes. Rosy Morn and other popular bedding varieties of !93l] Home Floriculture in California 77 dwarf habit do well in beds, but some of these varieties which set seed have to be watched to prevent seeding in paths. On the other hand the large, ruffled, fringed, and double varieties do not set seed under ordinary garden conditions so are not troublesome about being scat- tered. Some of the tall balcony petunias are being used along fences, pillars, and in window boxes. California has several specialists grow- ing the large ruffled petunias, and certainly these large-flowered sorts add considerable color to the garden. There is a dwarf strain (fig. 13) of the Ruffled Giants, which has been recently developed. Good seed of the best ruffled varieties may cost as much as 50 to 75 cents a packet. If the plants can be ready for setting out from late in May to the first of July there will be plenty of time for good bloom. Some gar- deners replace pansies with petunias. In growing petunias from seed there is some danger of damping-off. This can be largely prevented by adding sand to the seed-bed surface ; some specialists have suggested fine charcoal, which acts similarly. Fine gravel has helped to keep a dry surface in the seed flat. The seed should be covered very lightly. No serious pests of the petunia occur in most gardens. In growing double petunias, the weaker plants are most likely to be double. All seed for*double petunias comes from single-flowered plants that have been selected for their ability to produce a large percentage of double flowers. SALPIGLOSSIS Salpiglossis, a member of the tobacco family, may be treated much like the petunia. It is valuable for bedding and massing. Seed may be sown early in seed flats or later on in the open. A fairly rich well- watered soil gives the tallest plants and the best flowers. The flowers are usually at their best in June, July, and August, Some plants live over more than the one season and will be in bloom late in May where the climate is mild. There has been a little trouble about damping-off or rotting of the stems at the surface of the ground. Growing plants in full sun with good drainage will help to prevent this trouble. Plant in different soil each year. SCABIOSA There are both annual and perennial scabiosa varieties. The old pincushions or mourning bride represent the annuals, but now better size and color are offered in annual scabiosa (fig. 14). The greatest improvements have come in the perennial scabiosa. For many years the blue bonnet (Scabiosa caucasica) was grown in a limited way in gardens, but the pink-flowered Scabiosa columbaria has 78 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 recently taken the fancy of florists and gardeners. The flowers range a little smaller than in the bine bonnet and are decidedly pink. The stems of the plants have a tendency to root where they touch the moist soil. In most respects this species is better for the home garden than the older species. We should also mention the Isaac House hybrids, which are an improvement over the Scabiosa caucasica species. Scabiosa japonica is also a perennial species with lavender-blue flowers. It is Fig. 14. — Annual and perennial scabiosa varieties are more popular than ever in California home gardens. Shasta is the annual variety shown above. (Photo- graph by courtesy of Chas. C. Navlet Co.) desirable to start the seed early enough to get the scabiosa plants out- side just as soon as the weather is favorable for growing in the early spring. Aside from a few aphis the scabiosa has no very important pests or diseases. SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum) The snapdragon is one of the most popular garden flowers in spite of the fact that it is subject to the snapdragon rust. Growers have a choice of the dwarf, intermediate, and tall varieties and also one race of hybrids. The nurseryman often grows an early crop for his trade 1931] Home Floriculture in California 79 but the home gardener will usually find that there is less trouble with rust if planting is delayed until the spring months when growing conditions are better. Rapidly growing, vigorous snapdragon plants set out in the spring are fairly resistant to rust. They should be in before hot weather comes on in order that they may be well established and in the best condition to resist the attacks of the rust fungus, which is most serious in hot weather. The culture of the snapdragon is not difficult except that the watering should be done in such a way as to leave the foliage dry over night. It may be done in basins or else early enough in the day so that the plants will dry off before night. The soil should be kept as dry on top as will still permit a good growth of the plants. No insects are likely to be very troublesome. STOCK (Mathiola) There are two general groups of stocks — those used primarily for their summer blcom and those planted for winter or early spring bloom. All of the stocks are excellent for bedding purposes and they are also good for cut flowers in the home. The fragrance is pleasing. The so-called ' ten-weeks stock' (Mathiola incana var. annua) is the popular summer-flowering class, but the Nice or Cut-and-Come-Again (Mathiola incana) class is also used some for winter bloom. The Giant Imperial (Bismarck) (see fig. 15) belongs to the summer- flowering class but is superior to the Nice class in nearly every way. The Brompton or winter stock is a perennial form of common stock with large flowers, but it requires a long time from seed to bloom and is therefore not very popular. The Giant Perfection may be grouped with the Nice stocks. Probably all the classes mentioned are variations of one species without distinct botanical differences. Special varieties will be found under the various classes. Particular mention may be made of the variety Empress Elizabeth in the winter stocks, and Golden Rose in the Imperial class, both pink in color. Antique Copper is another variety in the Imperial class, but it is more odd than beau- tiful. Elk's Pride in the Imperial stocks is intense royal purple. All double-flowered stocks are propagated with seed taken from single- flowered plants, since double flowers set no seed ; only strains pro- ducing 75 to 85 per cent doubles should be used. Stocks are best started in seed flats and later transplanted to flats, then finally to the open ground where growing conditions are favor- able. At no time should the plants be allowed to become stunted. 80 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 Stocks are troubled by aphis and by a soil fungus that rots the stems near the surface of the ground. Aphis can be controlled by applying tobacco sprays or dusts, and the soil fungi can be best controlled by not over-irrigating. Rotation from year to year also helps to check the soil fungi in any particular bed. Fig. 15. — The Giant Imperial or Bismarck stocks are excellent for summer and winter or early spring bloom, either in the garden or as cut flowers. (Photograph by courtesy of Chas. C. Navlet Co.) SWEET PEAS (Lathy rus odor at a) California leads all the states in growing sweet peas commercially, normally having from 1,500 to 2,000 acres for seed purposes alone. This means that conditions are very favorable for sweet peas, par- 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 81 ticularly adjacent to the coast. Sweet peas can be grown even in the warmer areas if some shade is provided. Red spider and similar pests seem to be much more troublesome in the hot inland districts than near the coast. Sweet peas are injured by great variation in temperature between night and day, as indicated by a failure to set bloom until the nights become warmer. Sweet peas demand a fairly deep, fertile soil to do well. Flowers are rarely good where the soil is not deeply prepared and does not contain considerable lime. Acid soils should be avoided. The time for planting will be regulated by the soil, moisture, and temperature conditions. If the fall and winter months are not too cold and the soil reasonably well drained, then fall planting is to be preferred because early planting favors deep rooting. In turn, those plants that have an extensive and deep root system are most likely to have the most and best flowers. Sweet peas planted later will come into bloom nearly as soon, but will not have a root system that can support as many or as good flowers. Good growing conditions early in the season seem to be particularly desirable. If the winter is very cool and the soil heavy or wet, spring planting will give the best results. Planting in pots for transplanting later can be used in an emergency for the very earliest flowers, but outside planting is the rule in Cali- fornia. Slug and snail damage can be partly avoided by transplanting larger plants grown in pots. Since results are often poor on shallow soils it is a good plan to turn the soil over to a good depth and incorporate cow manure so that there will be good drainage and high fertility after the seed is planted. This should be done well in advance of planting so that the soil will be settled and the manure completely rotted. The soil should be free from excess clay. If necessary lime may be added to insure good tilth. As a rule it is well to plant the seed moderately close and thin out later on. The important question of distance between plants in a row relates to mildew and sunlight. Where plants are too close they may lack sufficient sunlight and may remain rather damp. These conditions favor mildew and the dropping of the buds. Thinning out the plants in the seed row and even cutting out surplus lateral growth aid in the control of mildew. Incidentally, the best exhibition blooms may be had by a judicious thinning of the plants and the laterals and training to stakes, but excessive pruning is not very practical for the ordinary person. Quantity of bloom is more important than extra length of stem and size of bloom. 82 California Agricultural Extension Service [Ch** 53 Extra feeding 1 of the sweet peas will often improve growth and the quality of the blooms. The best Spencer-type flowers should have four blooms to a stem (fig. 16), but lack of fertility and poor care may result in only two or three blooms to a stem and even the drop- ping 1 of the blooms. Liquid manure may be safely given once a week after the first buds begin to show. The training and support of sweet peas is important. Chicken wire is satisfactory near the coast where temperatures are not high. Brush is better inland where the sun is hot. Wooden lattice-work and string can be used also, but string is not very satisfactory because it is not strong and cannot be made tight enough. The stems will not start to climb until they are 8 to 12 inches long. Then the first mature tendrils can be hooked over the wire or other support and in a short time the new tendrils formed will take hold. Unless the tendrils do take hold well a strong wind may blow the plants over. All old flowers should be removed to prevent seed setting. Old plants may sometimes be cut back and forced into new growth under very favorable conditions. Sweet peas are subject to several serious insect pests and diseases. Mildew is perhaps the most common disease and unless controlled by careful watering and thinning of the plants may seriously injure the flowers. Sulfur and other fungicides may be applied but are not very satisfactory. A good vigorous growth aids the plant in resisting mildew attacks. Leaving the foliage dry overnight is desirable. A soil fungus sometimes attacks the stems near the surface of the ground. This is worst where the sweet peas are planted early in rather heavy wet or cold soil. Later planting may prevent this difficulty. The sweet pea mosaic disease is caused by a virus type of organism and is identified by the appearance of black streaks on the vines and by water-soaked areas in the flower petals. Plants attacked decline early and are rendered practically worthless. Since it is now believed that such mosaic diseases are largely spread by certain insects such as aphis and leafhoppers, it is important to control these insect pests by regular spraying with 40 per cent nicotine sulfate sprays. It may also help to use only seed taken from plants known to be free from disease, such as is supplied by the reliable commercial seedsmen. Bed spiders may do considerable damage. They will be less trouble- some if plants are kept well watered and vigorous. Pine sulfur may be used if control is necessary. The green worm is a rather common pest on sweet peas and is best controlled by spraying with neutral lead arsenate. This insecticide 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 83 may be combined with the tobacco spray, using about 1 ounce of the dust for each 3 gallons of water. Birds and rabbits may eat the young plants and can only be kept off by a tight screen. In some cases it may be impractical to try sweet peas. Fig. 16. — California leads the United States in the production of sweet peas. The variety Idyl — salmon pink on cream — has been listed among the twelve best standard Spencers for garden decoration. (Photograph by courtesy Ferry-Morse Seed Co.) Since several fine new varieties of sweet peas are added each year, it is not practical to give a very extensive list here. In order that the beginner may have something tangible from which to work, twenty- four best late or standard, and the best twelve early-flowering Spencer 84 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 sweet peas for garden decoration will be given, as recommended by a California firm specializing in sweet peas. Other excellent varieties are offered and may be well adapted for special conditions. In the list of twenty-four best standard Spencer sweet peas, the best twelve varieties are given first. Standard or late Spencer sweet pea varieties — Avalanche — white Gleaneagles — light blue-lavender Idyl — salmon pink on cream (fig. 16) Mary Pickford — cream pink Olympia — rich purple Pinkie — deep rose-pink Powerscourt — lilac -la vender Beflection — clear blue Supreme — pale blush-pink Sybil Henshaw — crimson What Joy — deep cream Youth — white edged with soft rose-pink Campfire — cerise Carmelita — flushed, white ground Charming — deep cerise Chieftain — deep mauve Del Monte — Pelargonium-pink Dora — bicolor Doreen — rich carmine Hero — rose-cerise Huntsman — scarlet Picture — cream-pink Sunset — bright rose Warrior — maroon Early-flowering Spencer sweet pea varieties — Early Blue Boy — clear blue Early Chevalier — rose self Early Columbia — pink and white Early Giant Kose — rose pink Early Harmony — lavender Early Queen Crimson — crimson Early Silver Blue — light blue-lavender Early Snowstorm Improved — pure white Early Springsong — salmon-pink on cream Early Superior Pink — rose-pink flushed salmon Early Torch — salmon-orange Early Vulcan — vivid scarlet 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 85 VIRGINIAN STOCK (Malcomia maritima) This excellent little annual flowering plant should be better known in California because it adds a great amount of color to the duller parts of the home garden where the soil is reasonably moist. Once the plants are started they will reseed themselves and come up year after year unless turned under by cultivation. The spring crop that is seeded in the fall will bloom about April and May and may be used to furnish color in daffodil and tulip beds after the earlier flowers have finished blooming. Another sowing in May will be in bloom late in June or early in July to help add color near irises and similar plants after they are past blooming. Seed may be saved from the summer crop to plant the next season. ZINNIA A very great advance has recently been made in the zinnia. The size of the flowers, the range of color available, and the form of flowers all have a large appeal to gardeners in the warmer sections of Cali- fornia. Near the cool coast the zinnia will grow and bloom but the flowers fail to reach the perfection found inland or where there is plenty of heat during the growing season. Among zinnia types are the large dahlia-flowered zinnias (fig. 17) with no center showing, the Mammoth type with only a small center, the miniature type known as Pumila, Liliput, or Pompon, and Haagaena, another dwarf. The Red Riding Hood variety is of a com- pact form covered with button-like scarlet flowers. Zinnias are not very subject to disease or insect pests when grown where they have plenty of water and a fertile soil. They should be planted in the full sun after the weather has warmed up well. Sluggish growth brought on by drouth and cold is not favorable to good blooms or continued health. Cold nights are injurious. A virus disease kills some plants and is best checked by control of all insects and by plant- ing on new soil each year. 86 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Fig. 17. — The zinnia reaches its perfection in the warm inland valleys of California. (Photograph by courtesy of Chas. C. Navlet Co.) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 87 HINTS ON GROWING CERTAIN POPULAR HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS 21 ASTER (PERENNIAL) The perennial aster or Michaelmas daisy of the gardens is too well known to need special mention except to say that certain varieties are especially popular, such as Climax in violet-blue, Barr's Pink in bright pink, and St. Edgwin in rosy pink. Many others will be de- scribed in catalogs. Recent interest has been largely devoted to other perennial asters or aster-like plants. Aster yunanensis, a low, blue aster, and Aster alpinus in violet to pink and white, are important in rock gardens. Aster s lib -coer ideas in bluish- violet has also been widely grown. Erigeron glaucus, the wild beach aster of California, is charming. Erigeron alpinus is similar. The former is purple, the latter lavender- blue. Plenty of moisture and not too much heat or shade will be needed. CAMPANULA Canterbury bells (Campanula medium and C. calycanthema) are grown more than other species of campanulas. The plants usually bloom the second year and then die, but some may persist until the third year. Other species of campanulas include Campanula carpatica, ( J to 18 inches high and with single deep-blue flowers; C. barbata, 6 to 9 inches high with nodding pale-blue flowers; C. garganica var. hirsuta, low-growing and suited for window boxes and borders, with flowers pale purplish-blue and star-shaped; C. laueri (not C. lorei), 1 foot high with pale-blue flowers ; C. isophylla, valuable for hanging baskets, either pale-blue or white flowers; C. portenschlagiana, suit- able for borders, with small blue-purple flowers; C. persicifolia, (peach bells), 2 to 3 feet high with blue or white flowers; C. pyra- midalis (chimney bells), often 4 to 5 feet, with pale-blue flowers; C. rotundifolia (blue bells of Scotland), 6 to 12 inches high with bright-blue flowers. 2i Herbaceous perennials are plants which live for more than two years ; biennials normally bloom the second year and then die. This section includes both groups with the exception of the bulbs and tuberous-rooted plants, which are given in another section. Azaleas and hibiscus are treated under evergreen perennials (see pages 139 and 145), because most of the varieties grown in Cali- fornia are evergreen. For further reference see: Mulford, F. L. Herbaceous perennials. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1381: 1-84. 1929. 88 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 CARNATION The average home gardener is less interested in winter carnations than the commercial florist. The winter or commercial carnations require very careful attention if they are to do well. The best-quality blooms are only secured under glass, though fair quality may be had outside in parts of central and southern California, In the case of bedding carnations (Dianthus caryophillus) there is little trouble about split calyxes as compared with the winter carnation. The fact that the bedding carnations will bloom in five to six months from seed and that the bloom comes mostly in the summer months has made this group of considerable interest to home gardeners. Unfortunately the bedding varieties have been listed only under colors until recently, when some named varieties have been offered. The following varieties of bedding carnations are representative of the color range : San Remo — pure yellow Beauty of Nice — rose-pink Villa Franca — white Mentone — scarlet Cannes — pearl-pink Monaco — velvety crimson Most seed dealers list special strains of the bedding carnations under such names as Chabaud, Riviera, and Marguerite. The well-known florist varieties of winter carnations are of some interest to home gardeners having green houses or favorable outside conditions. The following list of winter or florist carnations will repre- sent the more popular varieties : Alma Ward — white Main Sunshine — yellow Donald — dark crimson Matchless — white Bettie Low — cerise pink Morning Glow — light pink, good keeper Enchantress Supreme — salmon pink Mrs. C. W. Ward — medium pink Hilda — pink Eed Laddie — red Ivory — white Rose Pink Enchantress — pink Laddie — pink Ward Improved — deep pink Lawson — red White Wonder — white Most varieties of winter carnations remain popular for not more than ten years, though there are exceptions, as in the case of Rose Pink Enchantress and Mrs. C. W. Ward. Deterioration in the quality of the blooms of a variety through disease or injurious methods of propa- gation may be partially to blame, but the desire for something new will also explain some of the shifting in popularity. Florist's maga- zines may be consulted for the new varieties as they are introduced. Outside carnation culture has been important commercially in parts of southern California. Methods used for the commercial va- rieties will apply equally well to the bedding varieties. Old flower 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 89 stems should be cut back after the spring or summer bloom is past. The young rooted cuttings are pinched back after they are planted to encourage low branching. Exhibition blooms are always disbudded, leaving only one bud to the stem. Feeding with liquid manure will be needed for the best bloom. A mulch about the plants will help. Old leaves should be removed and the plants supported by wire or stakes in case the stems are long. Regular attention is essential for good results. There has been much trouble about the splitting of the green calyx on carnations, and unless the plant is kept in continuous healthy growth there is bound to be trouble. Red spider, thrips, and other pests which check growth must be controlled by spraying. Watering should be frequent enough to keep the plants vigorous. A check in growth may result in trouble, but the bedding varieties will be most resistant. Spots and other diseases are not very serious outside but insect pests should be controlled. CHRYSANTHEMUM22 The fact that as many as eight carloads of chrysanthemum blooms have been shipped out of central California from the vicinity of Redwood City and other Peninsula points in one day shows that chrysanthemums thrive under the coast climatic conditions. Practi- cally all gardeners can grow some variety of chrysanthemum satisfac- torily, whether the district be in the hot interior or near the coast. More shade and water will be needed inland but the fact that very good chrysanthemums have been shown at Fresno, Pomona, Pasadena, and other inland points demonstrates that even the large-flowered varieties can be well grown in home gardens if given proper attention. This takes considerable experience and several years may be needed to find out just what varieties do best and just when the buds should be selected for the best. blooms. The smaller-flowered varieties are entirely satisfactory for home use, in fact, better in some respects than the 6 to 10-inch blooms secured by forcing, and they need no special attention. Types of chrysanthemums may be classed as follows : Large-flowered — mostly Commercial and Exhibition blooms Incurved Eeflexed Large Single and Anemone 22 See also: Morrison, B. Y. Chrysanthemums. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1311: 1-16. 1923. 90. California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Medium to small-flowered Anemone — large and small -flowered Caps and Decoratives — usually double and full to the center Single — large and small Pompon — large and small Novelties — quilled, spidery, thread, and ostrich-plume flowers Fig. 18. — The large chrysanthemums are beautiful but require considerable experience and skill for the best results. The variety shown is Louisa Pockett. (Photograph by courtesy of Western Homes and Gardens.) There are scores of chrysanthemum varieties, and because of differences in season, color, and form, even a list limited to well-tested and important varieties is necessarily rather long. Catalog descriptions may be used to narrow the following list to those varieties which seem to satisfy individual preferences best. Large-flowered, Incurved and Reflexed Pink Yellow Chieftain Helen Frick Mrs. J. L. Davis (Pink Turner) Thos. W. Pockett Unaka Vermont Col. Appleton Col. J. F. Piper Maj. Bonnafon Mrs. Bigby Nagoya Yellow Chieftain Yellow Pocket, light and deep- yellow strains Yellow Turner 1931 Home Floriculture in California 91 Bronze Bronze Turner Hilda H. Bergen Nagirroc Tekonsha Wm. H. Waite Bed C. H. Totty Geo. Hemming Mrs. G. G. Mason White Louisa Pockett (fig. 18) Mrs. Gilbert Drabble White Chieftain William Turner Lilac or silvery rose May Hunter Smaller hardy garden varieties Caps and Decoratives Butler's Caprice — deep pink Crimson Source D 'Or Kathleen Thompson — crimson Lilac Cap Lizzie Adcock — yellow Source D'Or (Golden Feather) Purple Cap White Cap Yellow Cap Single varieties Baby Portola — maroon-red (late) Bronze Buckingham Bronze Molly Golden Mensa Gretchen Piper — yellow H. Marie Totty — crimson Ida Catherine Skiff — amber Kitty Biches — early pink Louise Mayo — pink Mrs. W. E. Buckingham — pink Mrs. E. D. Godfrey — light pink Old Gold— gold Large-flowered Pompons Anna L. Moran — flame-scarlet Captain Cook — rose-pink Golden Climax — orange-yellow Lilian Doty — light pink Bed Doty — wine red White Doty — white Yellow Doty — yellow Small-flowered Pompons Baby — yellow Baby Doll — yellow shaded pink Baby Marguerite — white Baldwin 's Scarlet — scarlet Button Rose — rose Little Gem — lavender-pink Vivian Martin — anemone-flowered, creamy pink with yellow center White Gem — white Anemone-flowered chrysanthemums Clemencia — pink Coed — pink Godfrey's Perfection — white Graf Von Oriola — rose-pink Bed Bird — ruby-red Titian Beauty — bronze Tronesta; — early pink Wee Wah — bronze-yellow Novelties Fugi — lavender, long thread Patricia Grace — shell-pink, tubular petals, rather large, suitable for exhibition Sam Caswell — white thread with three-pointed tips Chrysanthemums are best propagated from the moderately soft tips, a form of green soft cuttings. They should be 4 or 5 inches long, with bottom leaves removed, top leaves pinched in half (fig. 7c). They should be rooted in coarse sand (No. 4) about the first of March. 92 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 Special boxes or sand beds should be used. If cuttings are rooted in the open they should be protected from the sun with white cheese cloth or else glass and newspaper. Offshoots can be used where disease is not serious and only the small-flowered, hardy varieties are grown, but exhibition flowers should always be grown from rooted tip cuttings. Chrysanthemums do best in a heavy loam but will grow in any soil that is well fertilized and watered properly. The rooted cuttings should be planted about the first of May. Very early planting often causes the growth to be too tall and the wood to become hard pre- maturely. The late blooms find the most favorable weather conditions as a rule. They should be planted with the top roots approximately an inch or two beneath the surface. Plants should be far enough apart in the row to allow for cultivation and the work of disbudding". Water should be given often enough to keep the stems soft and the leaves healthy. Overhead sprinkling is needed for the best results but should be discontinued as soon as color shows in the buds. Mulching with well-rotted manure is a good practice and may be followed by applying liquid manure daily or weekly (according to strength of the manure water) as soon as the first buds show. With the large-flowered varieties the liquid manure should be discontinued as soon as color shows in the buds. Excessive fertilizing may cause a cracking of the necks and burning. Plants should be staked with 5-foot stakes to prevent injury in the wind. One tie is usually better than two or more. Exhibition blooms may be produced on plants set out about May 1, and if necessary cut back to 8 inches from the ground about July 1 to be sure of a vigorous soft stem and fleshy leaves. Feeding with liquid manure is essential. Disbudding is always practiced for the large flowers. The time to select a, bud will depend on the variety and the growing conditions. The first buds which form are called 'crown' buds. Laterals will form near the crown buds and on the ends of these will be clusters of buds called 'terminal' buds. No laterals appear after the terminal buds form. In a few varieties the crown bud is saved and all laterals removed, while in many varieties the crown bud is removed and one to three laterals saved ; each lateral is finally disbudded to leave one terminal bud on a stem. Many people will prefer to have about three laterals with medium-sized blooms to a plant, rather than one large bloom. In most varieties the crown bud produces an inferior bloom; in such cases the best terminal buds should be saved. Many catalogs suggest the approximate time to select the buds for best results, but the grower will have to experiment for himself to be sure. 1931 ] Home Floriculture in California 93 The time for selecting buds ranges from the middle of August to late in September. Buds should not be selected before the middle of August unless the varieties are early and there is a place for forcing. Commercial large blooms are protected with cheese cloth stretched over a framework to exclude insect pests and protect the blooms from unfavorable weather and dampness. Some similar protection will be needed for exhibition blooms at home. A weekly spray with 40 per cent nicotine sulfate and whale oil soap or an application of nicodust on warm days will help to control aphis, tarnished plant bug, thrips, and midges. 23 A daily morning hosing-off of the plants will remove all spray sediment. Slugs and snails should be controlled in the usual way. DELPHINIUM (PERENNIAL LARKSPUR) Special mention is made of the delphinium because California flower growers are finding conditions particularly favorable for this excellent perennial. Great improvement in the varieties of delphinium has taken place during the past few years. Formerly the individual flowers were mostly single and not particularly pleasing in size or form, nor were there the wonderful combinations of blue and pink that are so common now in the best American strains. Americans seem to fancy the lighter blues and pinks, whereas the English strains run more to the darker blues. Nevertheless the Wrexham, Blackmore and Langdon, and other English strains are excellent and popular here in California. The Vanderbilt, Burns, Boby, Shaw, and other Pacific Coast strains are being extensively planted. The beginner might try a seed packet of some of the recognized strains and select the most promising seedlings. There are great possibilities as to the length of the flower head, the size and spacing of the flowers on the spike, doubleness, and other points of merit which the delphinium grower watches closely. Flowers with dark background petals and pink petals inside or pink petals edged blue seem to be very popular. White and yellow strains have not been very satisfactory in color or vigor. Some of the best strains in color and shape have proved disappointing in persistency of the plants, but great improvement in this respect has been accom- plished in some California strains. Mixtures of the best strains are often listed in seed catalogs. Delphiniums demand a well-drained soil that is moderately moist and contains plenty of lime. The addition of refuse mortar to a heavy 23 For chrysanthemum insects see: Weigel, C. A. Insect enemies of the chrysanthemum. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1306:1-36. 1923 94 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 soil should greatly improve it for delphiniums. Ordinary air-slaked lime is also good. The soil must have plenty of organic matter (well- rotted barnyard manure) and nitrogen for the plants to reach their best. A lack of moisture, lime, or nitrogen will tend to result in short spikes and general poor growth. Plants that might be 6 feet high may only reach 3 feet, and many of the younger plants will fail to over- winter. The mortality of young plants the first winter is often high, especially in some strains, and some of the best colors seem to dis- appear in a large bed that is neglected. There will be a large spring bloom and, if the seed spikes are re- moved and the plants given more fertilizer and water after a brief rest, a second late summer or fall bloom. Young seedlings often produce a very creditable bloom late the first year ; in fact, some of the flowers in the small spikes reach an enormous size. It is best to remove those flowers on very small plants so the plants will not be weakened by seed formation. In order to prevent mildew, watering of delphiniums should be by flooding or basin irrigation rather than by sprinkling. If overhead sprinkling is practiced, the watering should be done early enough for the plants to dry off before night. Water will be needed in between the different crops of bloom. Delphiniums are occasionally troubled with mildew, blight, and other fungus diseases. Damping-off of the seedlings may largely be avoided by pouring boiling water over the soil about a day in advance of seed planting. The seedlings should never be permitted to dry out. Old plants will usually begin to decline after three or four years and should then be replaced. Slugs, snails, and sowbugs do considerable damage to young plants ; every effort should be made to control such pests by scattering lime about the clumps and by keeping a poison bran mash out during the growing season. Delphiniums should be planted where they can be given proper attention without interfering with other flowers. The plants should usually be in beds by themselves or in back of low- growing border plants. GAILLARDIA (BLANKET FLOWER) This large daisy-like flower requires good drainage and not too much shade. There are many fine perennial varieties from which to choose. Portola, Dazzler, Sunset, and Crimson Glow are some of the best varieties. A new yellow strain is also sold in California. The gaillardia may be used as a low edging plant and for cut bloom. 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 95 GERBERA (TRANSVAAL DAISY) Judging from recent interest at flower shows only a few home gardeners have seen the improved gerberas now being grown and sold in California. Colors range from yellow through crimson, rose, pink, white, and lilac shades. The greatest improvement has been in size of bloom and in color. Some fine strains are being sold in southern California, but fully as good blooms are being raised in gardens farther north, where special attention has been given to seed selection for a period of fifteen years. Any home gardener can have equal success in raising this very beautiful flower provided there is plenty of heat to insure good growth and winters are not too severe. This means that the best results will be had either near the coast in southern California or just back from the coast farther north. Gerberas may grow and bloom near the coast and even inland but they are not happy where the weather remains cool or where the winter tempera- tures are severe. Gerberas will bloom over a long period but have been said to bloom best in summer. Winter bloom is not uncommon in places where the weather is warm, as in the warm foothill belt of central and southern California. Well-established plants of the best varieties in different colors are available and will be suited to many home gardens. Many gardeners will continue to use seed, though growing from seed is somewhat difficult and takes considerable time. Seed might be substituted for plants as the gardener gains experience in propagation work. GEUM Interest in geums has come with the development of three double varieties, namely Mrs. Bradshaw (red), Lady Strathedon (orange- yellow), and Orange Queen (color in between the other two). Geums are easy to raise from either seeds or plants. They have practically no pests. Old seed stalks should be removed to encourage new blooms of desirable size and to prevent the germination of seed in nearby flower beds. Water should be applied fairly often for good growth. Disbudding will be needed for the largest flowers. The base of the stems should be scalded in hot water to make the flowers keep well when cut. 96 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 PENTSTEMON Pentstemons are often recommended in place of snapdragons when snapdragon rust is serious. The pentstemons are similar in appearance and have very few troubles, but the flowers do not keep as well when cut. There is a caterpillar that likes pentstemons and must be hand- picked or the foliage sprayed with lead arsenate to prevent trouble. Pentstemons like a well-drained, fertile soil and will not do well on a soil that is kept saturated with water. A cool place in the full sun is best. The large-flowered pentstemons (Pentstemon gJoxinoides) have been grown in many California gardens. Named varieties like Sensa- tion and Sensation Improved have been outstanding for their size and color. More recently home gardeners have begun to realize the merits of some of the smaller-flowered western native species running to pinks and blues or lavenders. Certainly these natives are well adapted for home use and are superior in coloring to many of the old garden varieties. Pentstemon heterophyllis has been called the best of all the pentstemons and its spikes of brilliant violet-blue are worthy of any garden. Pentstemon rupicola is another native with greyish foliage and bright rose-pink flowers; it grows in a dry location. Pentstemon procerus has violet to blue-purple flowers. PINKS (Dianthus) There are many species of garden pinks being grown in gardens in California (fig. 19). The increased interest in rock gardens has given more emphasis to the planting of pinks. The Chinese pink (Dianthus chinensis) includes many strains, the variety Heddewigi being most common and usually treated as an annual. The old spice pink (Dianthus plumarius) is still popular for the late spring bloom. Alwoodi pinks, hybrids produced by crossing with the carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) , are extensively grown. Many of the garden pinks now being passed from one neighbor to another are of this hybrid origin. Seedlings also appear in many gardens. .The blooming season is longer than in the ordinary spice pink. Still another hybrid group has recently been developed by crossing the Alwoodi pinks with the sweet william to give annuals of the general habit of the sweet william but with individual flowers more like the pinks. This 1931] Home Floriculture in California 97 hybrid race is usually listed as sweet wivelsfield. Still another cross between the Alwoodi pinks and Dianthus alpinus has resulted in long- flowering- perennial pinks listed as Alwoodi alpinus. Reference to any of the catalogs dealing in rock plants will bring out such species as Dianthus caesius (cheddar pink) and D. deltoides (maiden pink). These other species are interesting and have their place in some gardens, but the spice or clove pink will probably retain its present popularity. The well-known sweet william (Dianthus barb at us) has good listed varieties, like Newport Pink, the best salmon pink. Fig. 19. — The Dianthus, or perennial pink, has been extensively used as a border plant in home gardens. There are several species suited to rock gardens, and new hybrids are adding to the deserved popularity. (Photograph by courtesy of Germain Seed and Plant Co.) PHLOX Experience has taught that the well-known perennial phlox (Phlox paniculata and P. maculata) only occasionally does well in California. Some gardeners of the north coast and also in the citrus belt of southern California have had very satisfactory results. A southern California nursery lists over a dozen named varieties and the plants 98 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 are doing very well, considering the dry climate. Persons who are interested should test out a few popular varieties like Professor Schliemann (lilac-rose) and Rynstrom (rose-pink) to see how they thrive under local conditions. Other colors ranging to lavender, lilac, lavender, salmon, and red are available in California nurseries. Other perennial species of phlox have done very well near the coast in the northern portion of the state. Phlox subulata is a gem in the rock garden when the right conditions are provided. P. amoena is another species which has done well in rock gardens in central Cali- fornia near the coast. Good drainage, cool growing weather, and some moisture with fertile soil is about all these phloxes need. The perennial phlox first mentioned is in bloom from July until fall, the other low- growing phloxes bloom in the spring. P. drummondi, an annual species, is shown in figure 5, page 29. POPPIES (PERENNIAL) Most people are familiar with the annual poppies which have been grown in gardens since ancient times, most of these belonging to Papaver somniferum, the opium poppy. The shirley poppy was devel- oped about 1880 from Papaver rheas, the corn poppy of Europe. The perennial poppies are not so well known as the annuals but should have a great appeal because of their permanency and excellent blooms. The oriental poppy {Papaver orientale) has many colors includ- ing pink. The Iceland poppy {Papaver nudicaule) is now receiving a great amount of interest, which it justly deserves. It is a true perennial, is easily grown, transplants well, and makes an excellent cut flower. There are both single and double forms and the color range is all that could be desired. The new strains have long stems and large flowers, ranging in color from white through orange, pink, yellow, chamois, and salmon rose. Coonara Pink, Gibson (orange), and Orange Gold are good examples of new varieties. The Sandford strain of England is one of the best. Plants started in the early spring will bloom by late June or the first part of July and will be well established for following years. They are best placed in the fore part of the borders in front of the taller plants. Just enough water should be applied to keep the soil moderately moist. The rock-garden lover is interested in an excellent new blue poppy known as Meconopsis baileyi. This perennial is native to the high interior section of China and demands the most careful attention to get it well established. Growers have reported that it does best in a 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 99 slightly acid soil not too light in texture. Gardeners should not attempt to plant it in a light sandy loam but rather in leaf mold and peat where moisture conditions are favorable. A moist, half shady location is desirable; the poppy should not have to compete for the needed moisture. The color and good stems invite the interest of more home gardeners. Seed is now available in California seed stores. PRIMROSE (Primula) Primulas or primroses include many species but only three or four are common in home gardens. The little Primula malacoides is highly valued where the winters are mild, especially for its winter and early spring bloom. Nurseries start the seed in the fall so the plants will be ready to plant out in winter and spring. Recently a large-flowered dwarf form of this species has been listed as variety Eclipse. Primula polyantha (polyanthus primrose) includes several garden hybrids but the most popular strains have tall spikes with many flowers of good size in a wide range of color. Short stems and small size of flowers are common faults. Colors range from white to yellow, apricot, red, bronze, maroon, and even blue. There are both single and double flowers but singles are most common. Propagation is nor- mally by seed except where some outstanding plant is to be increased ; then offshoots are used, dividing the mother clump in very early spring just as soon as the soil works well. Primula veris (cowslip) and P. elatior (oxslip) are occasionally grown but either short stems or small blooms make them less desirable than the best forms of P. polyantha, the latter species probably being made up of hybrids of several species, selected for long stems and good colors. Primula obconica is largely limited to greenhouse culture, but it may be set out in the garden in mild weather. The flowers bloom over a rather long period of time but must be protected from cold and drouth. Drainage should be good. Primula japonica is occasionally seen growing in home gardens under large oaks or in other shady nooks where there is plenty of moisture. The tall flower spikes bear flowers ranging from white to rose, lilac, blood-red, salmon and white striped, and white with crim- son center. Moist, fertile, shaded soil is essential for success. Primula auricula (auricula) is only occasionally seen in gardens because it is very exacting in its requirements. It requires moist soil with plenty of lime. The flowers are very showy in umbels containing as many as twenty blooms. It is valuable for the Alpine rock garden. 100 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 PYRETHRUM ( Chrysanthemum coccineum) Visitors at recent flower shows have marveled at the hybrid pyre- thrums now being raised. The daisy-like flowers range in color from rose to pink, cream, and white. The flowers come in either singles or doubles, the latter only coming partly double from seed. The flowers are very good for house decoration. A heavy fertile loam soil pro- duces excellent flowers and for those wanting a hardy spring-blooming aster-like flower it would be hard to make a better selection for many California districts. The small golden feather (Chrysanthemum par- thenium) often seen in borders should not be confused with Chrysan- themum coccineum (Pyrethrum roseum, Pyrethrum hybridunx) . Persian insect powder is made from still another species. SALVIA (FLOWERING SAGE) Most people think of the scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) when the word 'salvia' is used. This rather tender perennial has been used extensively, especially further east, but in California other species are perhaps more popular. Salvia leucantha, or purple sage, is a very hardy and vigorous sage. The flowers are purple with white tips. Salvia nemorosa has small flowers of violet or purple or bronze-purple and the plant is similar in habit to the purple sage. Salvia azurea is native to the southern states and is normally blue. Salvia pitcheri, var. angustifolia, has been grouped under Salvia azurea by F. T. Hubbard. Salvia, farinacea is another perennial salvia with light-blue flowers valuable for cutting. Still other salvias are being grown, and the United States Department of Agriculture has distributed new species from China for further testing as ornamentals. Most of the salvias seem to thrive under California conditions and the fact that California has many hardy native perennial sages would suggest their success in a semi-arid climate. However, most of the salvias respond to irrigation. They have no serious pests or diseases as a rule, although garden plants have been killed by a soil fungus attacking at the soil surface under heavy irrigation. The salvias should not be overwatered. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 101 VIOLET (Viola odorata) Outdoor violet culture has been common among commercial growers in California but is not so important in home gardens. Excessive shade, the attacks of certain pests like red spider, and poor varieties have discouraged many gardeners from growing violets. However, violets are desirable when they can be given a suitable location and proper care. Violets like a cool climate such as prevails near the coast in southern and central California. Enough heat for good growth is essential but in the hot climates it will be necessary to plant where shade is available. Violets like a loose, fertile soil, well supplied with moisture, lied spiders do not thrive where there is considerable mois- ture but readily attack weakly growing plants during the dry season. A general clean-up of old foliage and other plants which harbor red spiders may be needed to insure control. The most popular varieties of violets include the following, in order of importance : Princess of Wales, the largest and best single, with long stems and light- purple flowers, fragrant; considered a type of the California, variety; suited to coast districts. California, very productive, single, dark violet-blue; does not fade; has long stems well above the foliage; subject to red spider; less popular than Princess of Wales. Marie Louise, double, lavender-blue, fragrant, long stems, good foliage; does well away from coast in sandy loam soil. Purple King, has a profusion of blooms medium in size, single, keep well. President Herrick, new, dark violet, fragrant, heavy foliage. Swanley White, the leading double white; does well inland in sandy loam soil. Violets are best propagated from runners early in the spring because the plants produced from these early runners are least affected by disease. Offshoots can be used but are not as desirable. Seedlings are variable in their characteristics. 102 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 HINTS ON GROWING SOME OF THE POPULAR GARDEN BULBS AND ROOTS 24 DAHLIA25 The dahlia originally came from Mexico but probably finds no more congenial home anywhere in the world than near the coast in California. Many excellent varieties have been developed in Cali- fornia, and the many dahlia shows held each year demonstrate that size, form, color, and perfection of blooms are all wonderful. But cultural perfection depends very largely on having a cool moist climate with fertile soil. Heat or poor soil causes trouble. Plenty of irrigation water will in part overcome a hot dry sun, but only a few varieties will really be satisfactory in a very hot, dry climate. Dahlia varieties are being developed which keep well when cut. The small Pompon dahlias (fig. 20) have been used for home decora- tion and are widely sold by florists. Certain long-keeping, large- flowered varieties are being handled more and more, though there will always be limitations; few dahlias will keep longer than three days even with the best care. Persons who wish to select varieties that keep well should consult expert dahlia growers. Over 7,000 varieties of dahlias have been listed in catalogs; any list suggested here must be more or less arbitrary, yet the need for such information is all the greater. Experience over a long period has demonstrated the value of certain classes and varieties. The home gardener is primarily interested in flowers effective in giving a good garden display and suitable for home decoration. For these purposes the commercial large-flowered varieties and the Pompons and Singles are most satisfactory. As he becomes interested in the fancy side, other varieties that do not keep so well or that are more exacting in their cultural requirements may be added to the collection. Dahlia varieties come in several types. In order of popularity these may be listed as : 1. Decorative: flat petals clear to the center of the flower; range in size from 6 to 10 inches, occasionally reaching 14 inches in diameter; excellent for garden display. 2 4 Includes those plants normally started from bulbs, underground rootstocks, or fleshy roots. 25 See also: Morrison, B. Y. Dahlias for the home. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1370:1-16. 1923. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 103 4. Hybrid Cactus: flattened, twisted, pointed petals clear to center; flowers very large ; excellent for garden display. Cactus: rolled, pointed petals clear to the center; stems often rather weak at the neck; very good for garden display; good keepers. Pompons: miniature dahlias usually coming in quilled form with dense rounded heads; recently Decorative Pompons have been added to this group; very good keepers but less effective in the garden. Fig. 20. — The Pompon dahlia is extensively used as a cut flower in California homes. The plants thrive in most gardens where plenty of moisture is available and certain insect pests can be controlled. 5. Peony: large flat petals with about three rows and yellow round center of flower showing; very good for garden display ; but not very good keepers. A few Decoratives may be Peony in one place and Decorative in another. 6. Single : the large Singles and small Singles are available ; the small Singles, known as English Singles, are most popular and excellent for bedding, also valuable along with Pompons in home decoration. 7. Show: flowers in round heads with quilled petals. The hybrid Show has more flattened petals but is still slightly quilled. Most Pompons are miniatures of the Show type. Show dahlias are largely limited to ex- hibition. 104 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm. 53 8. Collarette: like the Single, there should be eight petals around the edge but in addition there is a collar of three small petals opposite each of the eight ray petals; an exhibition flower mostly. 9. Anemone : a Single-type dahlia with disk flowers in center raised in the form of tubular petals; not common or popular. Occasionally other classes are mentioned. The Fancy has bicolored flowers but this classification is seldom mentioned now except in describing varieties. For the benefit of the beginner, a few popular varieties of proved merit are listed below. Many other equally fine varieties may be had from leading dahlia growers. Large dahlias Ambassador — amber; Hybrid Cactus Eleanor Martin — mulberry-suffused old-gold; Decorative Edna Ferber — coral to old-gold; Hybrid Cactus El Granada — orange with yellow reverse; Hybrid Cactus Elinor Vandeveer — rose-pink; Decorative Gladys Bates — early; amber; Cactus Gladys Champion — apricot with red on reverse; Peony Islam Patrol — scarlet-tipped old-gold ; Decorative Jane Cowl — buff; Decorative Jersey's Beauty — salmon-pink; Decorative Marmion — apricot; Decorative Mrs. Alfred B. Seal — old-rose ; Decorative Mrs. Carl Salbach — lavender-pink ; Decorative Mrs. Edna Spencer — lavender-pink; Cactus Nobilis — red and white ; Decorative Pierrot — amber-tipped white ; Cactus Pride of California — red; Decorative Eegent — pink; Cactus Tommy Atkins — scarlet-red; Decorative Small dahlias (Pompons and Singles) Aimee — bronze; Pompon Darkest of All — deep maroon ; Pompon Gertrude — carmine-red ; Pompon Girlie — rosy-lilac ; Pompon Glow — old-rose; Pompon Helen Anita, — lavender with light center; Pompon Joe Fette — white; Pompon Johnny — deep maroon-red; Pompon Little Beeswing — yellow petals tipped red; Pompon Little David — orange ; Pompon Little Jewell — pink; miniature Decorative Mrs. Joynson Hicks — buff with maroon ring ; English Single Naranja — orange ; English Single Yellow Gem — yellow; Pompon 1931] Home Floriculture in California 105 The soil should be prepared well in advance of planting and should be fertilized with well-rotted cow manure if this is deemed necessary. At planting time in April or May it is best to set a stake where the dahlia hill is to be and plant one tuber next to the stake ; 2% feet is a good distance for planting provided an extra 1 to l x /2 f ee t is left every second row to give room for a path. The tuber is planted flat at a, depth of 4 to 6 inches with the bud against the stake and pointing up. It is desirable to plant shallower in very heavy soil than in sandy soil. Each variety should be tagged at the time of planting. Irrigation is not likely to be needed until the tubers are up, but water may be given if the soil should become dry. Water may be needed once or twice a week during the growing season and possibly oftener during heavy bloom later on. Some growers endeavor to water the night before picking. Barnyard manure may be applied around each hill when the first buds appear. Well-rotted cow manure and even fresh horse manure have given good results. If a manure mulch is placed in a, shallow basin further cultivation will rarely be needed during the rest of the season. It is advisable to spray once a week with a 40 per cent nicotine sulfate spray to control aphis and thrips. Wireworms in tubers may be con- trolled with calcium cyanide dust. Diabrotica or green beetle is controlled by hand picking or by screening the exhibition blooms. Mildew, stem spot, and stunt or mosaic disease are the three most common troubles of growing plants. Rotation and the planting of clean tubers are about the only effective control measures yet devised for dahlia stunt. Little is known about the cause of stem spot. Root rot is largely a storage difficulty and is most easily controlled by leav- ing the tubers in the ground over winter if the soil is well drained and does not freeze. The gardener should avoid immature tubers and should not permit the tubers in storage to dry out excessively. It is never advisable to plant a tuber suspected of having nematode worms, a knotty appearance being an outward indication of these parasites. In digging dahlias the grower should avoid breaking the necks of the tubers by placing the hand underneath the clump when lifting out the tubers. The clump should be allowed to dry off some before storing and should be stored in drygoods boxes where the temperature is close to 55° Fahrenheit and not too dry. Mill shavings have been used for covering the stored tubers. 106 California Agricultural Extension Service [<**■• 53 All side buds should be removed from the stem if large exhibition blooms are desired. At least one to three buds are removed below the bud saved in such a case. Dahlia flowers keep best when they are picked in the early morning and the stems dipped in scalding water. Mature flowers that are not too old keep best. A cool temperature is the most important single factor in keeping flowers. High humidity and good ventilation are also important. Cracked ice placed in the containers will aid during exhibitions. As much of the foliage as possible should be removed to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture. No chemical of any kind has been found to aid in keeping flowers after cutting. Many chemicals are very injurious. WStr* Idn — — I — I Wr\ X^U^Hyacinth 7 in. ~t Daffodil and Narcissus 12 in. | I Fig. 21. — Diagram to show proper depth of planting bulbs, indicated by the figures at the left; and distance apart in the row, indicated by the line at the right of each bulb. FREESIA AND SIMILAR CAPE BULBS The freesia is best known of the Cape bulbs, but there is increasing interest in the Babiana, Ixia, Lapeirousia, Sparaxis, and Tritonia. All will have about the same cultural methods as the freesia. For depth of planting bulbs see figure 21. The bulbs should be planted in the fall before winter rains set in, usually from August to the end of November. They may be planted either in rows, or in masses where the drainage is good, and in full sun. Commercial freesia bulbs are graded in about nine grades, ranging in size from % inch to over 1 inch. The larger bulbs, from % inch to an inch or more in diameter, will produce the best cut flowers. Small bulbs can be planted for increase. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 107 Many new varieties of freesias have been added recently. Purity is still standard in white. Other colors include Carrie Budau in laven- der-pink, General Pershing in yellow and pink, Olivette in bright car- mine, and Splendens in lavender-violet. Improvements have been made in the other Cape bulbs. Lapeirou- sia cruenta (flame freesia), Sparaxis tricolor and Sparaxis grandi- flora, Ixias in pink and green, Tritonia crocata, and large-flowered montbretias are just a few of these. Fig. 22. — The Primulinus hybrid with its butterfly shape has been a welcome member of the gladiolus family. It is greatly valued as a cut flower for the home. The variety shown is Orange Butterfly. (Photograph by courtesy of Carl Salbach.) GLADIOLUS California growing conditions are much like those of South Africa, from which come the several species that gave rise to the modern gladiolus. Probably this accounts for the fact that the early-flowering Nanus and Colvillei types, as well as the large late-flowering varieties, can be grown in the state. Some of the many wild species are being tested out and there is promise of a happy home here. But the present 108 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 interest is mostly centered in the large-flowered gladiolus and the Primulinus hybrids (fig. 22). Over a dozen wild species have been used in producing the many varieties of modern gladiolus and the possibilities are not yet exhausted, especially in the shape of the flowers. California will have to do most of this breeding work because only the southwestern part of the United States has a climate suited to some promising species; they cannot stand freezing weather and should have a long rest after they are through blooming. A climate with summer rains is unfavorable. The early-flowering gladiolus is best known by such varieties as the Bi'ide, Peach Blossom, Blushing Bride, Apollo, Brilliant, Crimson Queen, and Kubrum. The Bride is the small white gladiolus often sold by florists for Memorial Day. It is very hardy and easy to grow. Peach Blossom, in pink, is more difficult. All of these early gladiolus should be lifted and replanted in the fall each year. Apparently the fungus troubles which attack the bulbs left in the ground are closely associated with poor drainage, and just the lifting and the digging over of the soil will largely eliminate the trouble. Early gladiolus should be planted just before the first fall rains come. Under glass the large or late-flowered gladiolus may be planted any time from fall to spring, but in outside gardens it is safest to delay planting in home gardens until good growing weather comes in the spring. The soil works well at that time, and good preparation of the soil will last much longer than the same preparation in fall. Heavy soils are very unfavorable to fall planting because the rain compacts them so much that growth is poor. February to May is a suitable period for planting because all frosts are over by the time the bulbs are up. A few popular varieties are listed below, though many others of equal value might be selected. New varieties are not listed except where they have very outstanding merit. Large-flowered gladiolus varieties Eed shades Helen Wills Crimson Glow White Giant Dr. F. E. Bennett Orange, apricot, salmon varieties Improved Martha Washington Betty Nuthall O. D. Baldwin Emil e Aubrun Pfitzer's Triumph Nancy Hanks Purple Glory 2l™i!E„ Wonder Scarlet Wonder Senorita Virginia (Scarlet Princeps) Golden or cream varieties Claremont White predominating Golden Dream Coronado Golden Measure Diener's White (Polar Star) Sydney Plummer 1931] Home Floriculture in California 109 Blues, lavenders, lilacs, purples violets — Anna Eberius Baron Hulot Dr. Moody Geraldine Farrar Heavenly Blue Marmora Minuet Mrs. "Van Konynenburg Muriel Paul Pfitzer Eose Ash Various pink varieties Anthony B. Kunderd Break O'Day Byron L. Smith Catherine Coleman Col. Chas. Lindbergh Coryphee Early Sunrise Evelyn Kirkland Frank M. Schick Freda Gertrude Errey Giant Nymph Halley Helen Jacobs Le Marechal Foch Los Angeles Marietta Mrs. Dr. Norton Mrs. Frank Pendleton Mrs. Francis King Mrs. John Wood (Leon A. Douglas similar) Mrs. P. W. Sisson Mrs. T. Eattray Myrtle Pearl of California Prince of Wales Richard Diener Salbach's Orchid Salbach >s Pink Superba W. H. Phipps William Kent Primulinus hybrids Ada De Poy — apricot Alice Tiplady — orange saffron Apricot Glow Arden — watermelon red Baby Mine — pink Golden Amber La Paloma — orange Miss California — pink Mission Bells — pink Mrs. Calvin Coolidge — salmon rose- pink Myra — deep salmon Orange Queen — orange Orange Butterfly — orange Salmon Beautv — deep salmon Shell Pink Scarlet Bedder Souvenier — yellow Zenobia — orange red Gladiolus corms (bulbs) are sold according to size — small, medium, and large — or else according to diameter, as: No. 1, 1% inches up; No. 2, 1% to 1% inches; No. 3, 1 to 1% inches; No. 4, % to 1 inch; No. 5, 14 to % inch; No. 6, % inch or less; and bulblets or cormels. Grades 1 to 3 and sometimes smaller will usually bloom the first year. The very small bulbs either do not bloom the first year or make a very small spike. High-crown bulbs are preferred because they send up the best flower spikes. Very large flat bulbs will divide and send up two or three smaller spikes. In home gardens the corms may be planted here and there in available spaces where proper irrigation and cultivation can be given. Many gardeners want most of the bloom in June and July and a few late blooms in August. The early-flowering gladiolus will be through bloom in June in most parts of California, If large beds are to be planted, then regular rows should be used to make the work easier. A distance of 4 to 6 inches apart in the row and rows far 110 California Agricultural Extension Service l Cm - 53 enough apart to permit irrigation and hand cultivation will be about right. Small bulbs and bulblets for increase are scattered in rows like peas. Large bulbs should be set 3 or 4 inches deep, but small bulbs and bulblets should be only 1 or 1% inches deep, the greater depth being allowed for light sandy soils. The measurement is made from the surface of the ground and not from the top of the furrow. A loose sandy loam soil is easiest to manage but needs plenty of organic matter. Fertilizing should not be done at planting time. Excessive fertilizing will injure the keeping qualities of the bulbs, and large amounts of barnyard manure favor some of the fungus diseases which attack the gladiolus. Gladiolus do best in a soil that is fairly moist, yet well drained. Overhead irrigation is entirely satisfac- tory in every way, but furrow irrigation is also used by some gar- deners. Irregular moisture supply may result in crooked stems or stunted plants. Cultivate only enough to keep weeds down and to loosen the soil so that water will soak down readily. Support for gladiolus is not ordinarily essential but spikes that are 5 feet tall or higher may be blown over, especially while the soil is very wet, unless they are staked. Setting the corms fairly deep will help to prevent falling. Plant before the bulbs have sprouted badly. Serious diseases of the gladiolus include scab, storage rots, and mosaic, or yellows. Scab is characterized by small pits on the outside of the corm. The storage rots or dry rots appear as darkened areas on part or all of the corm and usually render it unfit for planting. If the disease appears during the growing season the outside leaves start to turn yellow and in some cases the plant dies. Rotation of the bulbs to new soil each year is essential for complete success in preventing these diseases. True, certain hardy varieties seem to live in the same soil for many years, sometimes without lifting during winter, but many varieties will gradually disappear with such treatment. Digging each year, sorting out all inferior corms, dipping in a good disinfecting solution shortly before planting, and yearly rotation will be most likely to keep down all serious disease. The bulbs should be peeled and dipped in 2 to 4 per cent lime-sulfur solution heated to 125° F for % minute or else in a solution of 1 part formaldehyde to 120 parts un- healed water for 30 minutes. If the bulbs are not wet thoroughly before dipping, it will take a little longer to be sure of complete disin- fection with the formaldehyde. Corrosive sublimate (mercuric chlor- ide) is used at a strength of 1 part to 1,000 parts unheated water for iy 2 hours. Any treatment that does not involve changing from in- fected soil will not be likely to prove effective. Mosaic disease or 1931] Home Floriculture in California 111 yellows, indicated by water-soaked blotches on the petals, is only controlled by roguing out every diseased bulb and bulblet. Insects, particularly the mealybug and aphis, also attack gladiolus corms. These two pests are serious in storage, and mealybugs may remain on the corms or the growing stems all season unless killed in some way. Calcium cyanide is most promising for controlling mealy- bugs that attack flowering plants just beneath the soil surface. Either the dust or the crystals may be used. But if the bulbs are cleaned up by dipping before they are planted, they will have a fair start. Gladiolus bulbs should be dug after the leaves have turned yellow, then dried where they will not be sunburned. The tops should be cut off after they dry and the corms stored in shallow, wire-bottom trays, not more than one or two layers deep. Good ventilation is essential for successful storage. The bulblets may be saved if the variety is valuable ; later during the winter these bulblets may be cleaned by first washing and then separating from clods and gravel with the aid of a shallow tray. Small holes cut in the corner of the tray will allow the bulblet to roll out into a container while the gravel and clods or chaff will be left behind. At least four healthy leaves should be left at the base when gladiolus blooms are cut, so that the bulb may store up enough reserve food material for good blooms another season. If the flower stalk is cut too low next year's crop of bloom may be injured. The pleasure in gladiolus in home gardens is often increased by growing properly named varieties of merit. These are not necessarily expensive, though the newer sorts usually sell for 25 cents to a dollar a corm, sometimes much more. Great improvements are being made in height, color, number of blooms open at a time, and facing to one plane. The flower shows will give an excellent idea of accomplish- ments. The butterfly shape and the pleasing colors in the Primulinus hybrids are very interesting. The large Grandiflora Primulinus retains the curved upper lip but in size is more like the ordinary large gladiolus. Inferior gladiolus should gradually be replaced with im- proved varieties. Clean, healthy bulbs should be used, and any bulbs that should become diseased should be sorted out. Any variety that is untrue to name may be relabeled and separated at digging time, or if not wanted discarded at once. 112 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir, 53 IRIS26 Many home gardeners consider the modern iris their favorite flower. Irises thrive with a minimum amount of care, and many varieties do well on soil that will not grow exacting flowers. However, irises will respond to good care. The Japanese irises like a wet muck soil that is acid. Iris susiana will not thrive except in a few districts where winter drainage is good and the plants have a rest in summer. The bulbous iris is harder to grow and obtain good blooms from than the common iris. Tall irises with Iris me s op ot arnica blood are exceed- ingly popular. Some of the nonbearded irises are grown, among which might be mentioned Iris orientalis (ochroleuca), I. aurc-a, I. monnicri, I. spuria, I. unguicularis (I. stylosa or winter iris), I. sibirica (Si- berian iris), and 7. levigata (Japanese iris). Some of the native iris species are grown by fanciers. The Spanish and Dutch irises (7. xiphiwm and 7. xiphium hybrids) are grown from bulbs. 27 The Dutch is a little hardier and two weeks earlier than the Spanish and for this reason may be given preference. The English iris (7. xiphioides) has bulbs also and needs wet soil. People wanting irises around wet pools might consider three species, the Japanese, Siberian, and the yellow English species, Iris pseudacorus. Many other interesting species will be found in California iris gardens. Bearded iris come in tall (fig. 23), intermediate, and short (pumila) varieties. There are several color groupings, and a choice will depend very largely on personal tastes, though some varieties are universally popular. Some of the more popular iris varieties are listed below : a few of the best new varieties are included, even though these may be expensive for the next few seasons. Iris dealers will gladly supply catalogs listing these and many other fine varieties. Tall bearded iris varieties that should remain popular for many years Alcazar — mauve and purple ; midseason Ambassadeur — bronzy violet and velvety maroon; late Asia — lavender on gold base ; late Avalon — pinkish lavender ; midseason Ballerine — blue violet ; midseason Fortuna — variegata with yellow prevailing; midseason Frieda Mohr — pinkish lavender ; midseason to late Grace Sturtevant — dark red-brown prevailing; midseason Lent A. Williamson — lavender and pansy violet; midseason 26 See also: Morrison, B. Y. Garden irises. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1406:1-46. 1926. 27 For further information see: Griffiths, David. Production of certain iris bulbs. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 25:1-22. 7 plates. 1928. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 113 Los Angeles — white edged pale blue; midseason Mme. Cheri — violet tinted pink with yellow undertone ; midseason Mme. Durrand — buff flushed lilac and amber ; midseason Mme. Gaudichau — violet and dark purple ; midseason Modoc — almost black ; midseason Mrs. Valerie West — lavender with bronze and crimson brown ; midseason Princess Beatrice— light lavender ; midseason Purissima — the best white for California; midseason San Gabriel — pinkish lavender; early San Francisco — white edged lavender ; midseason Santa Barbara — lavender-blue; midseason Shasta — hardy white; midseason Sir Michael — lavender-blue and purple-garnet; midseason Fig. 23. — The tall bearded irises are best known and easiest to grow. California conditions are most favorable for the growing of this group of irises in home gardens. (Photograph by courtesy of Carl Salbach.) Iris of only medium height but popular for home gardens Dream — crinkled rose pink Iris King — yellow and velvety garnet; midseason Mildred Presby — white, lavender, and pansy violet Eamona — petunia violet and cinnamon brown Eialgar — buttercup yellow striped bronze Seminole — velvety red-purple Shekinah — lemon yellow Stipples — white with bluish violet stippling Sweet Lavender — lavender violet and rosy lavender William Mohr — an odd hybrid, pale lilac veined manganese violet Regelia and related hybrids (suitable for California, where drainage is good and the winter not too cold and wet) Bellorio — lavender mouse-gray Carmelo — unusual shade of blue 114 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 Charon — bronzy mahogany veined gold and brown Hoogiana — blue Saturn — gray veined purple Stolonifera — bronze brown and steel blue Turkoman — brown, violet, purple, and blue shades Bulbous iris of proved merit Imperator — dark blue ; Iris filifolia variety Wedgewood — light blue; Iris tingitania variety Cajanus — yellow; Spanish variety Hart Nibbrig — bright blue ; Dutch variety J. W. de Wilde — yellow with bronze sheen; Dutch variety White Excelsior — white; Dutch variety Siberian iris Emperor — deep violet Perry's Blue — tall, light blue Iris spuria (includes Monspur hybrids) A. J. Balfour — tall beardless blue Lord Woolsey — tall beardless blue Monneri — tall beardless yellow. Aurea is a deeper yellow species Ochroleuca — tall beardless white, falls with a little yellow Iris unguicularis (stylosa) — the winter-blooming iris LILIES28 California has a large number of native lily species and several of the Asiatic species have found a congenial home here. Lilies need a well-drained, fertile, moist, neutral or slightly acid soil, with an abundance of organic matter. The soil should be free from soil fungi that cause bulb rot; new soil is preferable if it can be secured. If new soil is put in, a little sand or leaf mold in the bottom of the hole will help to insure good drainage. German peat can be worked into the soil to aid drainage. Most lilies do best with partial shade, as found on the north side of buildings or where large plants provide some shade during the hot afternoons. The regal lily (fig. 24) and Lilium henryi will tolerate full sun but even these do well with partial shade. Lilies vary considerably in their habits of rooting and growth. The wild California leopard lily (Lilium pardalinum) has a creeping bulb and is very hardy, only requiring dividing when the bulbs crowd each other. The gold-banded lily (Lilium auratum) rarely does well be- cause in many cases roots form only on the stem above the bulbs, whereas the formation of roots beneath the bulb is essential for con- tinued growth year after year. Lilium speciosum ruibrum and its rela- tives are a little more hardy because roots are formed both above and beneath the bulbs without much trouble. The regal lily and Lilium 28 See: Griffiths, David. Score of easily propagated lilies. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 23:1-35. 19 fig. 1928. Also: Griffiths, David. The regal lily. U. S. Dept. Agr. Dept. Bui. 1459:1-8. 4 plates. 1926. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 115 henryi form large bulbs in many parts of California without any special attention on the part of the grower and are perhaps the two most satisfactory home-garden lilies. For gardens that are well adapted to lily culture many other beautiful species of lilies are available, such as Lilium testacewm (Nankeen lily) , Lilium thunbergianum (elegans), Lilium tigrinum (single and double tiger lilies), and Lilium um- bellatum, and also the best natives such as Lilium washing tonianum and Lilium pardalinum. The common Easter lily {Lilium longiflorum Fig. 24. — The Begal lily (Lilium regale) is perhaps the best garden lily of the Easter lily group, because of its extreme vigor and hardiness with a minimum amount of attention. Plants shown are two years from seed. (Photograph by courtesy of Western Homes and Gardens.) and its varieties) is not especially adapted to most California home gardens, although it can be grown. Lilium philippinense does not overwinter as well as the hardy lilies but is excellent in a mild climate with good drainage. Lilium candidum (madonna lily) is still grown in some home gardens because it is one of the hardiest white lilies. Lily bulbs should be large in size to bloom well. Bulbs imported from Japan (as Lilium auratum and L. speciosum) have to be dug early in order to arrive in California by Christmas. In some cases the bulbs may be immature and shriveled. Such bulbs cannot produce the best blooms and may take several years to recuperate. The same is 116 California Agricultural Extension Service [C™- 53 true of bulbs which have been forced in hothouses. Gardeners should try to get plump, mature, large bulbs with uninjured bulb scales. It is important to examine the buds in the center of the bulb. A large bulb may have two or more small buds; these will not give as satis- factory bloom as a somewhat smaller bulb with one large vigorous bud. The newly formed buds that are to develop into the new flower spike will be pointed with tightly clasping scales. A group of loose, open scales indicates where the previous year's flower stalk arose. The grower should try to get the bulbs just as soon as they are available in the fall, as early as November if possible. These early-planted bulbs form the best root system and are most likely to become estab- lished. If for any reason highly desired bulbs should fail to become established in a home garden, success may be had by planting seed and developing the seedlings ; thus the moving of large bulbs will be avoided. Most lilies will bloom in two to three years from seed in California if given good care. Lilies are sometimes attacked by fungi that either rot the bulb or the flower stem. No satisfactory control is available except to provide good drainage and virgin soil, if possible. Sterilizing the soil about the bulbs at planting time may help to avoid trouble. Certain aphis (plant lice) attack the growing lily plants but may easily be controlled by 40 per cent nicotine sulfate, the usual tobacco preparation on the market. A yellowing of the lily leaves is often a sign of too little watering or of poor drainage. Lily bulbs should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep at least and then watered so the soil will be thoroughly wet. Young bulbs should be set deeper after the first year or two. Deep-planted bulbs will be least troubled about lack of moisture. Mulching the bulbs with leaf mold or German peat will help to keep the soil moist and cool. If any fertilizer other than leaf mold is added a slightly acid one like ammonium sulfate may be applied sparingly through the mulch. Tall lilies should be staked so that there will be no breakage. Gardeners should not expect small lily bulbs to make good flower spikes. Some of the small bulbs sold at a low price may produce only one flower or none at all the first season. It is safer to buy from pro- ducers when possible. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 117 NARCISSUS AND DAFFODIL29 . Several kinds of spring of spring bulbs are included under the name narcissus. ' China' lilies, Paper White narcissus, daffodils, jon- quils, poeticus, bulbocodiums, and other horticultural groups come under the heading. All have similar cultural requirements and similar pests and diseases. Fig. 25. — The daffodil is a popular representative of the spring bulbs. Home gardeners in this country still fail to attach as much importance to this fine flowering bulb as do English gardeners, but interest is increasing rapidly. (Photo- graph by courtesy of Hallawell Seed Co.) A fertile, well-drained, moist soil encourages good growth. Full sun is desirable. Bulbs may fail to bloom well when they have to 29 For reference see: Griffiths, David. Production of narcissus bulbs. U. S. Dept. Agr. Dept. Bui. 1270:1-31. 9 plates. 1924. 118 California Agricultural Extension Service [C^- 53 compete with shrubs and other plants for plant food, moisture, and light, Most of these bulbs will need to be divided about once every four or five years after they become crowded. After the bulbs have bloomed, their green leaves may be braided to keep them out of the way, but they should not be cut off nor the bulbs dug until the leaves have turned yellow, because the bulbs will not be able to ripen next year's blooms unless they are allowed to store up food material. Narcissus bulbs have a few serious pests — the greater and lesser bulb flies and the stem nematode. Quarantine measures against these pests are in force and only healthy bulbs have a legal right to be shipped. All bulbs should go through the hot-water dip- ping process, or 'cooking' as the bulb growers call it. 30 Water is raised to about 115° F and the bulbs are held in it for about 3 hours, which is long enough to kill all the larvae and eggs of the bulb flies or the nematode. Home treatment of bulbs is not practical because it is nearly impossible to keep a uniform temperature without the proper equipment, but if only healthy bulbs are purchased in the beginning and all diseased or unsound bulbs are discarded, the home garden can be kept fairly clean. A list of a few well-known narcissus varieties will help the begin- ner to make a good start with this excellent group of spring-flowering bulbs. The bulbs should be bought in time to plant before the spring rains start. Late-planted bulbs will grow, but they do not develop as good a root system the first season as the bulbs planted from Septem- ber to November. Narcissus pseudo-narcissus — large trumpet daffodils (fig. 25) Emperor -* Golden Spur King Alfred ) y ellow Van Waveren's Giant Mme. De Graff ) Mrs. E. H. Krelage V white Beersheba (for future) ) Duke of Bedford ) Empress I bicolor Spring Glory ) Narcissus incomparabilis — large chalice-cupped daffodils (long trumpet daffodil x Narcissus poeticus) Sir Watkin Bernardino Glori Mundi Croesus so See also : Griffiths, David. Experiments with hot-water treatment of daffo- dils in relation to forcing and field culture. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 113:1-36. 18 figs. 1930. 1931 J Home Floriculture in California 119 Narcissus barrii — small chalice-cupped or star daffodil (Narcissus incomparabilis x N. poeticus) Barrii Conspicuous Bath's Flame Firetail Seagull Narcissus leedsii — (silver-winged daffodils; white or pale yellow with pointed petals (white trumpet x Narcissus poeticus) White Lady Lord Kitchener Mitylene Tenedos Narcissus triandrus hybrids — cyclamen-flowered daffodils Narcissus triandrus var. albus — Angel 's Tears Narcissus jonquilla, N. odorus, and hybrids — jonquils Campernelle Buttercup, a hybrid Golden Scepter, a hybrid Narcissus tazetta — polyanthus narcissus N. tazetta var. papyraceus (paper- white narcissus) N. tazetta orientalis (China lily) Soleil d'Or Grand Monarque Narcissus poetaz — hardy cluster-flowered daffodils (Narcissus tazetta x N. poeticus) Admiration Orange Cup Narcissus poeticus — poet's narcissus; pure white perianth Epic Eecurvus (Pheasant's Eye) Horace (early) Sonata (late) Double varieties Alba plena odorata (Narcissus poeticus variety) Orange Phoenix (daffodil) Primrose Phoenix (daffodil) Miscellaneous Narcissus bulbocodium (yellow hoop-petticoat daffodil) Narcissus bulbocodium var. monophyllus (N. Clusii) (white hoop-petticoat daffodil) TULIP (Tulipa) 31 Tulips have their place among the spring-flowering bulbs and with right varieties properly grown will last for many years. Cali- fornia-grown tulips do not usually reach as large a size as the im- ported Holland bulbs but the bulbs are firm and bloom very well if si For bulb production see: Griffiths, David. Production of tulip bulbs. U. S. Dept. Ag. Bui. 1082:1-48.^ plates. 1922. 120 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cm- 53 given enough water during the late spring and summer to ripen the bulbs for next year's bloom. A failure to have the bulbs mature will tend to result in blind bulbs and a rapid deterioration in the size of the bulbs. The gardener should either plan to take reasonable care of the tulips or should leave them out. They will not stand neglect. If the bulbs are in the way after blooming it is possible to lift the plants and heel them in out of the way until the bulbs mature. The bulbs should not be dug for storage until after the leaves have started to turn yellow. Tulips need a fertile, well-drained soil, with plenty of organic matter, and they should have an abundant supply of moisture. Hol- land bulbs are often subirrigated. Tulips are affected with a virus disease which results in 'broken colors'. This 'breaking of tulips' has been known for 300 years but only recently was the cause associated with a specific organism. The Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station has demonstrated that it is a mosaic disease readily spread to healthy plants by means of aphis. Kembrandts, Cottage, Breeders, and Darwins have all been infected. 32 Roguing (or weeding out diseased plants) along with insect control is therefore very important in reducing the amount of disease. Tulip fire, due to a fungus (Botrytis tulipae), is carried through the bulb and in the soil. Disinfecting the bulbs may help but they should be planted in new, clean ground, for treating alone is appar- ently not sufficient for control. Aphis may be controlled in storage by dusting with nicodust and in the field by spraying with 40 per cent nicotine sulfate. The few tulip varieties listed below are selected from the several classes as representative of the many popular sorts in cultivation. Those named illustrate tulips which have proved their value under California conditions. Darwins — tall stems, globular flowers, in a wide range of colors Clara Butt — pink Dream — lilac Pride of Haarlem — rosy carmine Eev. Ewbank — lilac Cottage — not quite as tall as the Darwins but very popular; come in certain colors and forms not found in the other Inglescombe Pink Inglescombe Yellow Orange King 32 See : Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station. Bulb diseases. Oregon Agr. Exp. Sta. Ann. Report 1926-28. p. 98. 1928. !93l] Home Floriculture in California 121 Breeders — tall, strong growth, large flowers, but in a different range of colors than the Darwins Bronze King Bronze Queen Cardinal Manning — wine-red, flushed brown Prince of Orange — terra cotta and orange Lily-flowered tulips — a cross of Darwins with Tulipa retroflexa; petals pointed and often reflexed Adonis — rosy red Artemis — carmine-rose Sirene — rose Species for rock gardens: Clusiana — carmine-rose bordered white Kaufmanniana — sulfur yellow WATER LILY With the increase of interest in outside pools in California home gardeners are asking for more information on water lilies. Experience has been lacking in many localities, but probably a dozen growers of water lilies, mostly in Los Angeles County, are making large sales and have had some reports on results. The hardy water lilies (Nymphea species) have done well in all parts of California where they were given plenty of fertile soil and room in which to grow. Some of the tropical water lilies have given success even outside of the mild sec- tions of southern California. A very brief list of popular Nymphea varieties follows : Hardy varieties Attraction — garnet-red to crimson Comanche — copper or apricot Conqueror — crimson Escarboucle — red Formosa. — La France pink Gladstone — white Gloriosa, — red Mansaniello — pink Marliac group — pink, white, red, and yellow varieties Paul Hariot — yellow suffused pink Pygmaea Helvola (N. tetragona var. helvola) — dwarf yellow for miniature pools Somptuosa — pink Splendida — strawberry-pink Sunrise — yellow Tropical varieties For mild climate Blue Triumph General Pershing — pink George Huster — ruby red ; night-blooming Mrs. C. W. Ward — rose pink Mrs. George Pring — white 122 California Agricultural Extension Service [dR. 53 Panama Pacific — rosy red to purple Pennsylvania — deep blue William Stone — blue For most parts of California Star Lilies, rose, purple, pink, red, and blue varieties Zanzabarensis varieties in blue, dark blue, rosy-pink, and rosy crimson Water lilies should be planted in pine boxes or pits in the bottom of the pool so the container will be at least 15 to 18 inches square and 12 inches deep. Larger containers will favor even better growth and better blooming. There should be about 18 to 24 inches depth from the surface of the water to the bottom of the container or about 8 inches minimum from the surface of the water to the crown of the water lily. A very rich mixture of two parts of loam and one part well-rotted cow manure is suitable for growing the water lilies. This mixture should have a handful or more of blood meal worked into it each spring to keep up the nitrogen and organic matter. Blood meal will not injure fish in the pool. Replanting of the water lily in new soil will be needed if this treatment is not given. Over the surface of the soil place 2 or 3 inches of sand so that the fish will not stir up the mud. Incidentally, coarse sand is beneficial to some fish for scouring the gills. The hardy water lilies have fleshy roots, while the tropical water lilies have bulbs or condensed rootstocks. Some kinds of water lilies may be propagated from leaves, but root or bulb division is the method for all varieties here listed. The only common pest on water lilies is an aphis which attacks the upper side of the leaves. This pest may be controlled by washing it off the leaves so that the fish can eat it. It may be necessary to repeat the treatment several times. Very tender tropical water lilies, when grown in pools that freeze over, should be lifted in the fall and the bulbs stored away in moist soil until good growing weather comes in the late spring (about May 1) . Dealers in water lilies will gladly give advice when requested to do so. MISCELLANEOUS BULBS Only a few of the many interesting bulbs can be mentioned. Agapanthus (blue lily-of-the-Nile), Amaryllis belladonna, Hippeas- trum (hybrid amaryllis), Crinum, Arum species such as Arum pictum (black calla), and the true callas such as Zantedeschia aethiopica in white and Z. rehmanii in pink, are being grown in protected home gardens where there are no killing frosts. Helicodiceros muscivoras (Arum crinitum) has a bad odor. Most species of Nerine and Orni- 1931] Home Floriculture in California 123 thogalum are tender but are found outside in a few gardens. C annas are very important in the hot inland valleys in this state ; over a dozen varieties are listed by some nurserymen. Hemerocallis (day lily) plants are often planted at the edge of pools. Herbaceous peonies are still being tried out and some varieties like Felix Crouse, Festiva Maxima, Mons. Jules Elie, and Sarah Bernhardt are successful, if watered and cared for well after the blooming season is past, Tig- ridia pavonia (tiger flower or Mexicon shell flower) is fairly hardy, and interesting. Various species of Zephyrantlies should be grown more as low border bulbs. Watsonias will be greatly improved within a few years, and many new kinds of African bulbs will gradually be- come available. California has several specialists handling such bulbs and new reference books are being issued from time to time. Seeds of some bulbs may be obtained from South Africa at a nominal cost. The bulbs can only be imported under special permit, and most easily by the commercial growers. HINTS ON GROWING DECIDUOUS FLOWERING CLIMBERS 33 A list of climbing plants is given on page 32. The present discus- sion will be confined to certain special kinds which present serious problems or with which it is important to give a list of varieties. The other vines may be planted according to the recommendations of nursery or landscape specialists. CLEMATIS The clematis does best in a light, loamy, well-drained soil, fer- tilized each winter with well-rotted barnyard manure. The soil should be limed if it does not already have plenty of lime. Never allow the plants to become dry. The following varieties or species are important in home gardens of California : Clematis flammula (plume clematis) — small, white flowers, fragrant; foliage semipersistent ; needs full sun C. jackmani — large velvety, purple flowers borne in profusion; like other large- flowered varieties needs full warm sun C. lawsoniana var. henryi — large, creamy white ; needs full sun C. jackmani hybrid variety: Mme. Edouard Andre — large flowers of carmine- violet or bright red 33 Includes both annual and perennial climbing or trailing plants. Climbing roses are included with other roses (p. 129). 124 California Agricultural Extension Service t ClR - 53 C. montana — rapidly growing species with pure-white small flowers borne in the spring in great profusion C. montana rub ens — a variety of the above with pink on the buds, open with blush pink C. paniculata (Japanese clematis) — a hardy climber with small white flowers on the upper portion, borne in late summer; should be pruned well in winter C. virginiana (virgin's bower) — small, white flowers WISTARIA The genus Wistaria is represented by two important species, one from China and the other from Japan. The Chinese wistaria (Wistaria sinensis) has flower racemes 6 to 12 inches long, while the Japanese wistaria (W. floribnnda) has racemes 2 to 4 feet long but with florets not so close together as in the Chinese species. Bach species comes in white, blue or purple, and pink. Some varieties are much belter than others within these listed colors; actual observation of the plants is needed to form a good idea of the particular variety. New colors are possibilities, for a yellow wistaria has been reported. Grafted wistarias are recommended as being more vigorous and better suited to the ordinary home grounds. They should be planted in deep soil and kept well irrigated. The buds may be screened in the early spring if necessary to keep the birds away. Great damage is done by birds in outlying districts. Wistarias may be trained as stan- dards or as regular vines. The greatest beauty is on pergolas where the blooms may hang down, but informal plantings are also pleasing on home buildings. HINTS ON GROWING EVERGREEN CLIMBERS The mild winter climate of California allows many gardeners to grow tender flowering climbers. Results are often rather uncertain; how- ever, if the gardener wishes to do a little pioneering and conditions are promising, a few of the other less common vines listed may be tried. Certain nurseries make a specialty of the more tropical plants and will gladly give advice. BIGNONIA Evergreen climbers, commonly listed by nurserymen under the genus Bignonia, include the following popular species : Bignonia capreolata (trumpet flower), yellow-red and paler within, 2 inches 1931] Home Floriculture in California 125 long; Clytostoma callistegioides (B. speciosa, B. violacea) (painted trumpet) lavender and streaked, 3 inches long and 3 inches across; Doxantha unguis-cati (B. unguis-cati, B. tweediana) (catsclaw) bright yellow, throat with orange, 3 inches long and 4 inches across, tendrils hold to stone or concrete ; Phaedranthus buccinatorius (B. cherere) (red trumpet vine) blood-red, yellow at base, 4 inches long; Pyrostegia ignea (B. venusta) (flaming trumpet) crimson orange, 3 inches long. BUGINVILLEA Buginvillea vines are very gaudy when in bloom, but the magenta bracts of the more common variety have failed to please some gar- deners. The newer brick-red variety, Crimson Lake, is much more satisfactory. The color is almost pink in the greenhouse. HARDENBERGIA This climber bears small, pea-shaped flowers in the winter or early spring. Colors range from violet-blue to light purple, pink, and white in the different varieties available. The vines hold by tendrils. JASMINE Jasminum floridum is a new golden-yellow species. J. humile is the well-known Italian yellow jasmine. J. officinale is the common white jasmine or jessamine. SOLANDRA Solandra* guttata, or cup of gold, is a tall, vigorous scandent shrub reaching a height of about 12 feet. The flowers are golden-yellow, and as much as 6 to 8 inches across. The plant does well in sunny, pro- tected spots as far north as central California. The plants should be watered freely from fall to early spring, for during this period the bloom is formed. Blooming is best in a sandy loam rather than a very rich soil. Very rank growth seldom develops satisfactory bloom. Solandra gmndiflora has white flowers. STAR JASMINE ( Trachelospermum jasmino ides ) Trachelospermum jasminoides (Rhynchospermum jasminoides) , or star jasmine, is often listed with trailers but remains shrubby for many years. It is very desirable for its fragrant, white, star-shaped blooms, and the plant is hardy in most coastal areas of California. 126 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 TECOMAS AND RELATED PLANTS Pandorea australis (Tecoma australis), or wonga wonga vine, is another of the tall, half climbers with panicles of yellowish-white, bell- shaped flowers, spotted violet in the throat. The plant is limited to the frost-free areas. Another plant listed as Tecoma mackenii is the same as Pandorea ricasoliana and has light-pink tnbnlar flowers, striped red. This species must be planted in the full sun to flower well. Flowering may not start until the plant is five years old, a difficulty to be found in some of the similar woody climbers which at first make a very rank growth. Tecomas do best planted on arbors by themselves. Cape honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis or Tecoma capensis) is a half climber or shrub valued for its red, tubular flowers that appear in the fall and winter. It does best with good soil and a south exposure. HINTS ON GROWING POPULAR DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND TREES 34 FLOWERING CRAB APPLE (Pyrus) These may be considered either deciduous shrubs or trees. Young plants may be pruned as shrubs for several years but most kinds of flowering crabs become large trees in time. Gardeners will not be likely to have any particular trouble in growing the flowering crab apples, but it is important to know a little about some of the more popular varieties. The varieties are really very distinct in the beauty, shape, and size of their flowers and can hardly be compared directly as to merit. Each has its own glory. Bechtel's Double-Flowering Crab is a variety of Pyrus ioensis that appeared in the Middle West. The flowers are extremely large, double, soft pink, resemble a rose, and are fragrant. It leads in its class. Many growers find the smaller-flowered Japanese varieties equally fascinating. Anyone who has grown the Japanese flowering crab apple known as Kaido (variety of Pyrus micromalus) realizes that the crimson-stained pink flowers and the arching stems place this 3 * Includes those shrubs and trees which drop all of their leaves in winter. In a few plants, like the hydrangea, parts of the leaves may remain throughout the winter in frost-free areas. Such plants may be termed semi-deciduous but are included here. For azaleas see page 139; for hibiscus see page 145. 1931 1 Home Floriculture in California 127 flowering- shrub in a class by itself. The older species known as Pyrus pulcherrima (P. floribunda) , showy crab, has bright-pink buds which open to almost white. Pyrus scheideckeri makes a small tree and bears red buds which open into small, double, bright rose-colored flowers borne in profusion. Pyrus spectabilis (Chinese flowering apple) has a spreading habit and makes an excellent display with its bright pink flowers. Still other flowering crab* apples will be listed by nurserymen. Crab apples may be readily grafted on any of the seedling apple stocks about the last of February or early in March. The oyster shell scale and the woolly apple aphis sometimes are serious on the crab apple. The usual miscible oil emulsion sprays should be applied during the dormant season. Thorough application is essential where these pests occur. FLOWERING PEACH, PLUM, CHERRY, APRICOT, AND ALMOND {Prunus) These flowering plants have not been used as much as they really deserve. The landscape gardener tells us that evergreens may be grouped with them to provide a pleasing garden effect after the spring bloom of the deciduous shrubs or trees is past ; this suggestion may aid some growers who have objected to the rather short blooming period of the flowering deciduous trees. The varieties now listed by California nurserymen are so varied that only garden space and money will limit the choice. The flowering peach {Prunus persica) comes in double red, pink, white, and cerise and there are also singles, if desired. Cerise is often seen in gardens but softer pinks may blend better with other flowers ; however the cerise varieties bloom so early that they can often be used without any serious clash in the garden. Some kinds of light pinks do not burn and are highly satisfactory. Gardeners should see the flower- ing peaches before making a choice of color. Nurserymen will gladly make recommendations. Peach leaf curl is the only common disease of the peach. It requires spraying with bordeaux mixture just before the buds open in the spring. The flowering plums are widely grown, particularly the purple- leaved plums. Prunus cerasifera var. pissardi with its purple foliage is more of a foliage plant than a flowering plant, but Prunus cerasifera var. blirieuna has double blooms of a darker pink and is very satisfac- tory for early spring bloom. The tree of the latter variety is less upright. 128 California Agricultural Extension Service [dR. 53 The flowering apricot (Primus mume) with either double or single flowers is only grown to a limited extent but is well adapted to Cali- fornia gardens. Flowering almonds are of two general types. The large trees belong to Primus triloba; and the variety plena, a double-flowered form, is the one commonly seen. Some consider the single-flowered variety better. A very distinct species of flowering almond is P run us glandulosa. It is also called dwarf flowering cherry. The double pink to white flowers and the dwarf habit of the plant remind one more of Spirea vanhoutti than of an almond or a cherry. The Japanese flowering cherries are worthy of a much wider use. Their scarcity and cost have prevented many gardeners from using them, and it is impossible to import them from Japan or eastern nurseries because of the Oriental peach moth. Fortunately one or more of our California nurserymen are specializing in t lie growing of the flowering cherries, and still better, are using the real flowering cherry stock on which to propagate. Trees on suitable flowering cherry root are already available in excellent named varieties and at a reason- able cost. Trees on Mazzard root may do very well where the other roots are not available. There has been some confusion in the names of stand a in 1 varieties of flowering cherries, but the following varieties being grown and listed in California have been carefully checked and synonyms are given so that the characteristics may be better known. Careful nurserymen will be able to supply trees under these names. 35 Prunus serrulata Kwanzan (Kanzan, Sekizan, Sekiyama, Kawazan) — double, dark, pink, late; strong upright grower Shogetsu (Superba) — double, soft pink, late P. serrulata var. sachalinensis Fugenzo (James Veitch, Kofugu)— light, rose-pink, spreading, double flowers in clusters of three Yamazakura — late, double, light pink, dwarf P. lannesiana Ariaka (Oriaki) — semidouble, light pink, sweet-scented Gioiko (Gyoiko, Gyiko) — semidouble, pink Minakami — light pink, semidouble, large tree Miyako — double, soft pink, dwarf Senriko — soft pink, drooping, large flower clusters Takinioi (Cataracta) — single white, sweet-scented, large spreading tree Yedozakura (Nobilis) — late, double, light pink, dwarf 35 For a good check list of Japanese cherry varieties, see : Kussell, Paul. Japanese flowering cherries. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 31:1-8. 1928. (10 cents from IT. S. Supt. of Documents, Washington, D. C.) 1931] Home Floriculture in California 129 P. sieboldii Naden (Nadan, Siebold cherry) — very double, light pink P. subhirtella var. ascendens — upright, light pink rosebud var. autumnalis — light pink, early rosebud var. pendula (weeping cherry) — rose-pink, pendulant branches; top grafted P. grandiflora lutea — semidouble, green flowering P. yedoensis var. taizanfukum — double, light pink, upright grower P. campanidata (red-flowering cherry) — single, deep rose or red, bell-shaped flowers, tree about 25 feet, not very hardy in north HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas have long: been admired in California as semidecidu- ous or evergreen shrubs near porches and steps where there is plenty of shade and moisture enough to maintain a vigorous growth. Stunted plants will not develop good flower trusses. Practically all of the hydrangeas grown in California are varieties of Hydrangea opul aides (H. hortensis) and fall mostly into the Hortensia group. Some of the French varieties in this group are becoming very popular, as for example Trophee. There are no serious diseases or pests. An acid soil tends to give blue flowers while an alkaline soil will produce pink flowers with the same variety. Popular varieties include : Domotoi — when well grown this variety is double-flowered, pink ; some florets may come single if the plants are given little care Kadiant — deep pink Trophee — an excellent new reddish-pink variety with notched petals in the florets Thomas Hogg — a well-known white variety suited for pot culture Many other varieties will be found listed by nursery specialists ROSE36 A home garden is hardly complete without a few roses. Some home gardeners add at least one new rose a year ; the interest thus sustained makes home gardening a continued pleasure. Roses do require fertil- izing, pest control, and careful pruning, but few garden plants give more garden color or more cut flowers for the home. The sentiment attached to roses cannot well be replaced by any other flower. Rose growing in California is very different from that in some colder climates and some varieties act differently here. A few brief sugges- tions will aid in securing good blooms. 36 For a general discussion see : Mulf ord, F. L. Eoses for the home. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 750:1-38. 1922. 130 California Agricultural Extension Service t ClR - 53 The first rose plants are available at nurseries along toward Christ- mas and a second shipment comes in January or possibly a little later. In the milder parts of southern and central California the plants will push out buds early in January, if not before, so the nurserymen like to sell the plants before this time ; otherwise the plants have to be potted up to hold them. After the roses are placed in pots or cans they can be held safely, but some root pruning is usually given the field-grown plants to make them fit the pots. Home gardeners should secure plants before the buds have pushed out if possible, in order to make the most of the long growing season. Roses planted in January and February will usually give the best results. Fall planting is practical provided plants are available and dormant. There has been much debate as to whether roses should be budded on various stocks or grown on their own roots. Experience seems to show that those roses which are naturally vigorous on their own roots need not be budded. Most of the hybrid teas and many of the climbers do just as well on their own roots as when budded. The tea roses and weaker varieties in other classes should usually be budded on some congenial stock to insure vigor. The nurseryman usually prefers to put all his roses on stocks because budwood of new varieties goes further. The trouble with some budded roses is that the stock has not been properly disbudded before rooting and consequently the suckers that come up later may strangle the top. It makes little differ- ence whether Mannetti, Ragged Robin (Glorie des Rosomanes), multi- flora, Rosa rugosa, or other stock is used, so long as the union is good and a good plant results. Nurserymen use what they consider most practical. The wholesale rose producers can be depended unon to use the best stock, for their whole future depends on results. After the roses are set in the home garden the owner can increase his plants by cuttings if this is found practical, as it is with most of the varieties now grown. Growers of greenhouse roses often graft green plants in February and March, but this commercial aspect will not be taken up, for few home gardeners have greenhouses. A veneer graft can be used on small, green, rooted cuttings. Most home garden- ers will find it far more practical to propagate from cuttings (fig. 8) in December or to bud rooted cuttings in June or August, the latter date for dormant buds to be forced out the next spring. Rose budding is not difficult. Special rose stocks like IXL are being used for some of the standard or tree roses. If tree roses are to be formed, the shoots should have grown a foot or more above the point where budding is to be done so that the wood will be in proper condition for working. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 131 Fig. 26. — The rose in bud is justly popular. Most of the choice varieties of the present day have long pointed buds like the Feu Joseph Looymans buds shown above. (Photograph by courtesy of Armstrong Nurseries.) 132 California Agricultural Extension Service t ™- 53 Dormant budding about August is preferred for the tree roses. Three to five buds are inserted about the stem at suitable intervals. The selection of rose varieties is largely based on the tastes of the grower, although some roses seem to be universally liked. But many of the excellent old roses of twenty-five or thirty years ago have been largely discarded because gardeners are continually on the search for something new. That explains why the varieties that are popular arc rarefy over five to ten years old. There are exceptions, as the planting list will show. Hundreds of new roses are being introduced each year ; many of these will fall by the wayside as inferior in doubleness, re- sistance to mildew, strength of necks, shape and color, or in one or more of the other essential points. A rose that blooms a long time, is vigorous in habit, practically free from mildew, and resistant to aphis, has attractive foliage, produces a long, pointed bud, (fig. 26) holds its shape well, matures into a flower pleasing in color and not too single (except where entirely single), and is easily propagated and readily available, will most likely remain popular. Some roses fade badly or are too variable to be desirable. Many climbing roses have been developed from bush roses. Some of these fail to retain their climbing habits or do not climb readily, while others are very dependable. Caution is therefore needed to avoid mistakes in choosing new vari- eties. The roses listed below do not include all the meritorious roses, but those mentioned have been observed and tested under California conditions and are well worthy of consideration. Before naming the varieties it might be explained that the tea roses (indicated by T.) have a tea fragrance and as a rule are weak growers. The hybrid tea (H. T.) roses have more vigor. The pernettiana roses originally came by crossing the modern roses with the Austrian Copper, giving the well- known highly colored golds and salmons, but recent breeding makes it difficult to separate the pernettianas from the hybrid teas so the two are listed together. Only a very few hybrid perpetual (H. P.) roses are grown now; they are vigorous like the hybrid teas and are long blooming. The polyanthas (Poly.) include the baby roses, either multiflora or the hybrids. Noisettes, briars, moss roses, and other classes are occasionally seen but are not important as a rule. Rosa wichumiana and its hybrids (E. W.) are often grown and along with the Cherokee roses are important for one crop of spring bloom. Odd species like Rosa banksiae are little planted. The Ragged Robin al- ready mentioned as a stock is still grown extensively in southern Cali- fornia as a hedge along highways and around orchards near highways. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 133 White or nearly white Bush : Frau Karl Druschi (H. P.) K.A.Victoria. (H. T.) Climbing : K.A.Victoria (H. T.) Silver Moon (H. W.) Yellow and orange Bush : Constance (H. T.) Eldorado (H. T.) Golden Emblem (H. T.) Independence Day (H. T.) Irish Fireflame (H. T.), single Lady Margaret Stewart (H. T.) Mrs. E. P. Thorn (H. T.) Eev. Page-Roberts (H. T.) Climbing : Constance (H. T.) Golden Emblem (H. T.) Emily Gray (H. W.) Star of Persia (hybrid Rosa foetida) ; hardy Cream, light yellow, and apricot Bush : Golden Ophelia (H. T.) Lady Hillingdon (T.) Mrs. Aaron Ward (H. T.) Sunburst (H. T.) Sunstar (H. T.) Climbing: Marechal Niel (Noisette) Mrs. Aaron Ward (H. T.) Sunburst (H. T.) Light pink Bush : Caroline Testout (H. T.) Mme. Butterfly (H. T.) Mrs. W. C. Egan (H. T.) Mrs. W. C. Miller (H.T.) Ophelia (H.T.) Climbing : Bell of Portugal (hybrid Rosa odorata var. gigantea) Caroline Testout (H. T.) Cecile Brunner (Poly.) Dr. Van Fleet Mme. Butterfly (II. T.) Mary Wallace (hybrid Van Fleet) Tausendsehoen (Rosa multiflora) Pink with copper and buff shades Bush : Betty Uprichard (H. T.) Etoile Luisant (Baby Herriot) (Poly.) Isobel (H. T. ) ; single Los Angeles (H. T.) Mme. Edouard Herriot (Dailv Mail) (H. T.) Padre (H. T.) Talisman (H. T.) Win. F. Dreer (H. T.) Wm. Kordes (H. T.) Climbing : Jacotte (H. W.) Mme. Edouard Herriot (H. T.) Los Angeles (H. T.) Dark pink and rose Bush : America (H. T.) Dame Edith Helen (H. T.) Mrs. Chas. Kussell (H. T.) Mrs. Henry Bowles (II. T.) Radiance (H. T.) Rapture (11. T.) Rose Marie (H. T.) Climbing : American Pillar (H. W.) Cherokee, Pink Rose Marie (11. T.) Excelsa (H. W.) Red Bush : Hoosier Beauty (H. T.) John Russell (11. T.) Kitchner of Kartum (H. T.) Lord Charlemont (H. T.) Pres. Herbert Hoover (H. T.) Red Radiance (H. T.) The Queen Alexandra (H. T.) Ulrich Brunner (H. P.) Climbing : Hoosier Beauty (H. T.) Red Radiance (H. T.) Paul's Scarlet (H. W.) 134 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 Nursery roses are usually sold when two years old. They should be carefully graded according" to size and condition (fig. 27 A). Some of the roses sold at cut rates are inferior in one or more respects, often having a poor bud union, sometimes very poorly shaped, small in size, or even untrue to name. It pays to buy from reliable rose growers or their responsible agents and pay enough to justify a legitimate busi- ness. Nothing can correct inferior roses and only reliable dealers replace roses that have been incorrectly named. Green rose plants should not ordinarily be purchased with bare root, for few home gar- deners will have success with them. Rooted slips should not be trans- planted until they are at least a year old. Fig. 27. — A, A good two-year-old field-grown rose as it comes from the nursery should have strong roots and several branches, and should never be badly dried out. B, Not more than three strong canes should be retained, and these canes, as well as the roots, may be shortened somewhat. C, After the rose bush is pruned it should be set at the proper depth, as shown in the sketch. (Sketches by courtesy of California Nursery Co.) The rose should be planted in a hole that will allow the roots plenty of room. It is a mistake to cramp the roots or to plant in a hole that has poor drainage. Any broken roots should be cut off and any sus- picious galls should be entirely removed. The rose bush should be set down to the first fork so that the bud union will be covered. Tree roses should be planted at about the same depth as in the nursery, allowing for some settling (fig. 27 C). The soil should be firmed about each plant with the foot, but not enough to injure the roots. Watering at planting time is advisable. If a rose bush should arrive badly dried out, the whole bush should be left in water over night. If the rose bush comes in a can the can should be slit down the side with tin snips and the ball of earth gently removed to the hole. !93i] Home Floriculture in California 135 When the rose bush is dug in the nursery part of its root system will be lost, and therefore it is important to cut back the canes so that the roots will not have too much top to support until they have again established themselves. The nurseryman may have cut back the canes before shipping, but in many cases pruning has to be done after planting (see fig. 27 B). The canes should be cut back and thinned so there will be about three canes 6 or 8 inches long on a first-grade, two- year-old rose bush. All weak or slender growth should be taken out. The subsequent pruning of roses is much more easily demonstrated than described. Short pruning, in which only two or three buds of the last season's growth are left, will be needed for most of the vigor- ous tea, hybrid tea, and hybrid perpetual bush roses. A few roses with much briar blood or with multiflora blood seem to be injured by severe cutting back. In such cases it is better to thin out the canes each year to admit light ; the canes should be shortened only a little, cutting to good side buds. American Beauty, Cecile Brunner, the Pernets, and Juliet are examples of varieties which should not be severely short pruned. All pruning should be done about December or January before new growth starts. Climbing and pillar roses are also pruned while dormant after new growth has been completed, but the length growth is not cut back as a general rule. A very long cane might be shortened a little to insure healthy laterals and good flowers, but in most cases only the side branches or laterals on the long canes should be shortened. The pillar roses renew their canes each year and bear their flowers on the canes formed the past season ; with these most of the old wood is removed each year. With the ordinary climbing roses, on the other hand, the old canes are replaced only every four or five years. In all these cases replacing canes should be developed so they will be ready by the time needed. All new canes not wanted should be removed each year, but it is a serious mistake to cut out all new canes and leave none for replacing the old ones when they have lost their vigor. Kank, sucker growth has to be shortened on many climbers; long new laterals on varieties like Climbing Cecile Brunner or Belle of Portugal may actually bloom much better the next year if cut back some early in the season. Pinching off the tips of these suckers will accomplish the same purpose. Apparently the new growth is slowed down and ripens its wood better for producing flowers the next year. The less vigorous growth may await the regular dormant pruning in winter. Laterals on climbers should be cut back in winter to two or three buds of the past season's growth. Any dead or unhealthy wood should be re- moved. Thinning out should be adequate to admit light and air to each 136 California Agricultural Extension Service [d R - 53 flowering cane. Mildew is worse where canes are permittted to shade each other badly. The rose aphis, the green, bristly rose slug, and the rose snout beetle (Rhynchites bicolor) are the three most serious rose pests in California. Occasionally Fuller's rose beetle, the rose scale, and other insect pests may also be troublesome. Early control is essential for rose aphis. This is easily accomplished by spraying with any of the good tobacco preparations, refined mineral oil sprays, or even hosing off with water, a strong hosing being most practical on climbing roses. Few of the plant lice ever get back. Birds also aid in control of rose aphis. Incidentally some roses, such as Silver Moon, seem to be less troubled with rose aphis, whereas others, such as Cecile Brunner, are badly attacked. There are two common kinds of aphis attacking roses — the larger rose aphis and the small, green rose aphis. The latter is the worst rose pest in many parts of California, It works throughout the summer. The green rose slug is the larva of a sawfly 37 that has appeared in the San Francisco Bay region of central California and attacks the leaves so that only the skeleton is left after bad attacks. The brood which comes about July is particularly bad. However, control with a single application of lead arsenate spray early in the growing season is very effective. The rose snout beetle is maroon red in color and has a long probosis or nose. It sucks out the juice from the tender flower stems and the young buds, either causing the whole bud to wilt and die or else so ruining the bud that it is worthless. The adults normally hibernate in the soil beneath the rose plants, cultivation may therefore aid in con- trol. Hand-picking during the hot part of the day while the insects work is surest of control. Hold the hand or spread a sheet beneath because the insects drop when disturbed. Spraying is not effective as a rule. The rose scale is not serious on most bush roses but may be trouble- some on some standard or tree roses where the old trunks remain for years. In such a case control is easy by spraying in the winter with one of the oil emulsion sprays, such as distillate emulsion. The sum- mer oils could be used but are more expensive. Rose mildew 38 is the only common and troublesome disease on roses in California, Mildew attacks certain varieties far more than others. 37 See also : Middleton, Wm. Sawflies injurious to rose foliage. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers ' Bui. 1252:1-14. 1922. (See p. 4 for the bristly rose slug.) 38 For general discussion on rose diseases, see : Waterman, Alma M. Rose diseases. U. S. Dept. Agr. Farmers' Bui. 1547:1-19. 1928. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 137 In buying roses it is best to select varieties that are known to be highly resistant to mildew. Those mentioned by growers as resistant to mildew include: Angele Pernet, Cecile Brunner and related Poly- antha roses, Etoile de Feu, Golden Emblem, Golden Ophelia, Lady Margaret Stewart, Mabel Morse, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Mrs. Redford, Ophelia (and its sports such as Mine. Butterfly and Rapture), Radi- ance, Rev. Page-Roberts, Rose Marie, Shot Silk, and Silver Moon. Resistance to mildew is limited ; a rose that is free from mildew in an open, sunny, well-ventilated place may be seriously attacked in a shady, poorly ventilated, moist situation, such as the north side of a house. If mildew does appear the gardener should be careful about wetting the foliage late in the evening. Sulfur dusts, liver of sulfur (potassium sulfate), and bordeaux mixture have been used but are troublesome to use and unsightly, and give only partial control at best. Avoiding mildew is the best practice where possible. Rose rust, black spot, and crown gall are occasionally found on roses but no control is ordinarily needed, if good varieties are planted. In growing roses proper watering and fertilizing are important. Roses should be fertilized with well-rotted barnyard manure or other organic fertilizer rich in nitrogen each year. Growers should not expect roses to be at their best unless a good mulch of barnyard manure is applied in the fall or spring and even a summer application will help to insure a good growth. The color of the flowers is much better when plenty of fertilizer is added. Liquid manures and soot water are often applied for forcing purposes. A rest in between the spring and summer crop of bloom is advisable. This is accomplished by avoiding heavy watering and fertilization between crops. TREE PEONY {Peonia suffruticosa) With the exclusion of tree peonies (fig. 28) under United States Quarantine 37, plants can only be brought in under special permit. The Japanese and French varieties are scarce but are available in limited quantities. Most tree peonies in the United States are grafted on the roots of the wild tree peony, Peonia suffruticosa, often referred to by nurserymen as Peonia moutan. Nurserymen often mention various horticultural varieties such as Peonia oanksii but these should be listed under Peonia suffruticosa, though they are distinct from the wild form in many ways. Roots of the herbaceous peony (mostly Peonia alhi flora and a few Peonia officinalis) are occasionally used when roots of the wild tree peony are not available for grafting. Care 138 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 must be used to remove the root suckers where the wild tree peony is used as a stock so they will not strangle the top. Tree peonies may be planted in any fertile, well-drained soil in the full sun. They should be mulched or fertilized to keep up the vigor of the plants. Blooms up to 12 inches in diameter are being grown in California gardens. The identity of several excellent varieties has been lost. Fig. 28. — The tree peony is hardy and usually better adapted to California conditions than most herbaceous peonies. The flower shown is Peoniu suffruti- cosa, var. bariksii, a large double pink variety developed from the species often known as P. moutan and commonly used as a grafting stock. This variety is common in old gardens. (Photograph by courtesy of Domoto Bros. Nursery.) Some of these are being propagated by local nurserymen. The varieties listed below are being sold by name and have considerable merit. Other good varieties will become available in time, as stock is de- veloped. Asahi no Hikari — deep pink Banksii — large, double, rose color (fig. 28) !93i] Home Floriculture in California 139 Daikagura — double red, excellent, very large Fugi Botan — pink, almost single Kagura Jishi — good red Komada Fugi — deep pink, nearly single Nishiki Shima — pink Yachiyo Jishi — very light pink, single HINTS ON GROWING SOME OP THE POPULAR EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES 39 In California evergreens should be selected so far as possible because the mild winters will allow such plants to grow and appear well the year around. Of the many evergreen trees and shrubs only a few supply important cut flowers or will be valued primarily for their bloom. In the case of evergreen trees there will be room for only a few in most home grounds. In deciding upon the selection and place- ment of these trees the advice of a competent landscape architect will be needed for large plantings, and the small home owner should secure the best advice he can afford. ACACIA Certain species, such as Acacia baileyana, A. pravissima, and A. decurrens, have been widely grown and are highly popular for their bloom, which appears early in the year, usually early in February, when flowers are welcome. A well-drained soil is needed. AZALEA AND RHODODENDRON These two beautiful hardy shrubs are divided by horticulturists on the basis of the size of the flowers, the large-flowered sorts usually being called rhododendrons while the smaller-flowered varieties are designated azaleas, though all are frequently listed under the genus Rhododendron. Rhododendrons are usually evergreen. Some of the azaleas are hardy and some are deciduous. All will be considered here. Listing will be under the genus headings since nurseries use this method. Evergreen azaleas for outside planting: Azalea hinodigiri is probably a form of the species robustum and the variety amoenum, but is sold under the above name. It has small, bright-scarlet flowers which cover the bushy shrub in early spring. The variety is hardy in all parts of California, but prefers a shady, moist situation. ao An evergreen shrub or tree retains its leaves over winter. In certain cases (see azaleas and hibiscus) both evergreen and deciduous species may be involved, but for convenience both will be discussed here because the evergreen species are more important. Hydrangeas are discussed under deciduous shrubs and trees (p. 129). 140 California Agricultural Extension Service t ClR - 53 Azalea liexe is a horticultural variety valued for its deep-scarlet flowers and its dwarf, evergreen habit. Azalea kurume (A. obtusum var. amenam) is evergreen, with flowers in all colors. Indian azaleas are very important for forcing for Christmas trade, but only a few varieties in this group do well outside. Azalea ledifolia alba in white is fairly hardy and occasionally some of the pink-flowered forms do well in protected places in the garden. Deciduous azaleas for the garden: Azalea altaclarensis has orange-colored flowers ; it is a hybrid. Azalea Tcempferi {A. obtusum) (torch azalea) has bright-orange flowers. Azalea mollis is the trade name for varieties coming under Azalea sint nse and Azalea japonicum. The colors are orange, or yellow, and salmon. Azalea gandavense includes hybrids of A. luteum, known as Ghent azaleas. Many other azaleas are listed but the above include the more popular varieties. The rhododendrons in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, are well known to visitors. A collection valued at $35,000 was recently donated to the University of California, California has a wild species that is frequently transplanted to home gardens. Bui it is safe to say that one variety — Pink Pearl — leads all others in popularity. It has ;i beautiful light-pink color and large flower trusses that are at their prime just before or about the first of May. If only one variety could be chosen this variety would be the one for most people. There are similar varieties but few equal it in color or size of the trusses. Rhododendron calif ornicum is the native pink rhododendron. E. catawbiense of the eastern states has purple flowers. R. formosum has dark-lavender flow r ers. R. ponticum has lavender and purple flowers and grows rapidly. By properly selecting the varieties and species it will be possible to have blooms from February to May in outside gardens. R. fragrant is simum (Himalayan rhododendron) is prized for its fragrant white flowers. Khododendrons need a very w T ell-drained, slightly acid soil. This requirement is easily met by planting in a soil mixed with German peat or oak leaf mold. Pine needles are useful in keeping the soil slightly acid and in good condition. Barnyard manure is not suitable because the ash is alkaline. An acid fertilizer like ammonium sulfate might be added if the nitrogen supply cannot be kept up by leaf mold and pine needles. Watering is even more important than having the soil slightly acid. Heavy soils need to be lightened to insure good drainage. Water should be added often enough to keep the plants in good growung condition, especially through the fall and early winter when the plants might suffer. Buds for the next flower crop are being formed 1931] Home Floriculture in California 141 at this time, and these flower buds may abort or fail to develop if the plants are neglected. A good mulch of leaf mold around each plant is helpful. Some gardeners plant small pines near to provide some pro- tection from the sun and wind while the rhododendrons are small, later taking out the pines when more space is needed. Rhododendrons and azaleas do not have any serious insects or diseases in the garden. The soil and moisture difficulties mentioned above will account for most failures. Fig. 29. — The camellia is exacting in its moisture and temperature require- ments but produces very beautiful flowers under the right environment. The popular variety, Chandleri elegans, is here shown. (Photograph by courtesy of Domoto Bros. Nursery.) CAMELLIA These well-known evergreen shrubs have recently received con- siderable attention among California gardeners and nurserymen. The plants are rather slow growing and there is much trouble about the buds and petals blasting, yet in spite of such trouble more camellias are being planted than ever before. Some very fine varieties are listed and there is no very good reason why more gardeners who like camellias cannot have success. The single varieties will give the least trouble about blasting of the buds but most people like the double- 142 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 flowered varieties best. Camellias like a warm, moist climate and a well-drained soil that has a good water supply. Unfortunately the moist north coast sections may be a little cool, and the warm inland gardens may be a little dry unless careful attention is given to irriga- tion. The Sacramento Valley finds camellias very satisfactory and in the annual flower show at Sacramento the camellia has been given prominence. Nurserymen in the Sacramento Valley and a few in the San Francisco Bay district have specialized in camellias. A few of the many camellia varieties are considered superior. The Grandiflora type is receiving the attention of breeders, and gardeners who seek the best select varieties such as Chandleri elegans (fig. 29). This variety happens to be somewhat slow in growth but the blooms are very large, peony-flowered, light rose-pink in color. Ap- proximately two dozen varieties are available at local nurseries. The variety Vallevareda is bright pink shaded lighter pink in the center. Hikari gangi is variegated. Warrata is deep crimson with penny center. Pink Perfection is pale pink. Rosita is extremely double and rose-pink. Nursery specialists will gladly describe others. In planting camellias very cool, drafty situations are to be avoided. A camellia plant should never be permitted to suffer For moisture. A fertile soil is required, and enough organic matter should be added each year to keep the camellia in a vigorous condition. Shad- ing the blooms a little during the blooming period may help to prevent sunburn. Blasting is apt to result if the petals or opening buds are wetted. A fungus trouble also attacks the flowers at times and may be discouraged by avoiding wetting, especially over night. COTONEASTER A home planting in California is hardly complete without coton- easters, not because of their bloom but rather for their winter berries. There are many species used in landscaping home grounds, but the following are especially valued for their berries during the fall and winter. Cotoneaster pannosa — tall with small clusters of medium-sized red berries which are mature at Christmas and New Year's C. herroveana — similar to C. pannosa but the berries are a little smaller and not so compact in the cluster; probably less subject to the attack of aphis; excellent ; sometimes seriously attacked by pear blight C. francheti — orange berries borne scatteringly ; in their prime about Thanks- giving when the color is popular for decoration The only serious trouble to be controlled is pear blight, which sometimes attacks through the blossoms during May or June. Cutting 1931] Home Floriculture in California 143 out all infected wood is the method of control often used on infected pear trees, and the same method is suggested for berried shrubs at- tacked by pear blight. All pruning tools should be disinfected. If the young shoots are attacked by aphis, they may be sprayed with tobacco or refined mineral oil sprays. The upright cotoneaster should be pruned as the berried shoots are gathered. A judicious thinning out will be needed to favor good growth and to limit the size of the plants. DAPHNE Members of this genus are prized for the fragrance of their blooms, which scent the room or the garden nearby. The scarcity of the plants is also a factor with some people. Daphnes are being successfully propagated now in California and are worthy of a place in home gardens. A choice may be made from the following : Daphne odora — includes white and deep-pink varieties, very fragrant Daphne odora var. marginata — a pink-flowered variety with leaves edged yellow Daphne oneorum — fine-leaved plant with many-flowered heads, pink, fragrant Daphnes are very slow to root from cuttings except in the hands of skilled nurserymen. The nursery plants should be set in moderately fertile, rather heavy loam and not cultivated or irrigated too much. Full sun is best. A failure to bloom after two to four years is usually a sign of excessive watering and fertilizing or too much shade. Mod- erately cool weather, such as prevails near the coast in central Cali- fornia, has produced fine growth and good bloom. When pruning the grower should not remove all the flowering laterals, for it is on these that next year 's crop is borne. ERICA OR HEATHER Heathers, like rhododendrons, require a slightly acid soil to do well. Never plant near a lawn that is heavily limed. If the soil is not neutral or acid, it may pay to add leaf mold, German peat, or acid- forming chemical such as commercial aluminum sulfate or powdered sulfur. An annual dressing with one of these chemical is desirable wherever the soil naturally contains much alkali or lime. Only a few heathers are prized for their cut blooms, but many kinds are sold in pots for decorative purposes during the winter holi- days. Erica melanthera is probably the hardiest, healthiest, and best all-round winter-blooming variety for home gardens. The new variety 144 California Agricultural Extension Service [ Cir - 53 E. melanthera rubra is slower in growth. E. mediterranea is an old variety valued for its lavender-pink blooms, but the plant is less free from insects than E. melanthera. E. mediterranea hybrida is much prized for bedding purposes because of its dwarf habit. E. persoluta (white) and its variety rosea (rose-pink) are excellent for the spring bloom. The tubular-flowered varieties are rarely satisfactory in the open garden, but persons wanting to make a trial might plant E. f< lix faure or other similar variety recommended by the local nurseries. Heathers should be cut back heavily after the blooming season is past to prevent the shrubs from becoming too tall. ESCALLONIA Several species of escallonia are prized in California because of their color effect in the garden and long blooming period. The escal- lonias are well adapted to most of California. Many good speeies are now available, among which are the following': Escallonia ingrami, crimson; E. langleyensis, pink; E. montevidensis, white; E. pteroclar don, red; E. rosea, pink ; and K. rubra, dark red. The plants will stand considerable shade and still bloom. They may be grouped with other shrubs for banking. They are not particular about soil or moisture but will respond to good care. They have no serious pests. EUCALYPTUS The eucalyptus as an ornamental is best known by such species as Eucalyptus ficifolia (the red-flowered gum) and E. h wcoxylon rosea (pink-flowered gum). These trees are dwarf and are better adapted than are the taller species to small home grounds. They interfere less with other plants. FUCHSIA Outdoor culture of the fuchsia is important in many parts of California because so many districts are free from killing winter temperatures. The fuchsia will be killed if exposed long to tempera- tures running much below 30° F. Some varieties become nearly dormant, but under favorable conditions plants are evergreen. Growth is good in any ordinary, well-drained loam soil that is well supplied with moisture. Partial shade is highly desirable, and espe- cially shelter from a hot afternoon sun. Nearly a hundred years ago over five hundred species and varieties of the fuchsia were known. One of the present problems is to identify some of the popular kinds seen in gardens. A fuchsia society was 1931] Home Floriculture in California 145 formed in 1929 to clear up the matter of nomenclature and to further interest in this valuable flowering plant. Individual nurserymen rarely list over five or six out of about a hundred varieties being- grown in California home gardens. The following varieties and species are among those often listed or highly popular. Many others should be of interest to fanciers. Large-flowered fuchsias Autunmale — salmon sepals and scarlet corolla; leaves bronzed and flushed Fuchsia corynibiflora — coryms of brilliant red flowers; requires support; a good climber Graphic — scarlet sepals and deep-violet corolla Phenominal — double, bright-scarlet sepals and purple corolla, very large Storm King — red sepals and white corolla, tube short, flowers very double Sunray — scarlet sepals and light-purple corolla, leaves crimson-bronze and white Swanley Yellow — coral-red, extra long tube, spreading sepals. Small-flowered or baby fuchsias Fuchsia magellanica var. gracilis — slender red flowers, graceful spraying foliage, rapid grower. Fuchsia mag ellanica var. riccartonia—tinj red flowers, small curled leaves Fuchsia micropliylla — deep-red sepals and corolla, small leaves, autumn bloomer Fuchsia procumhens — small orange-purple flowers, a creeping species Fuchsia thymifolia— red flowers, petals wavy and obovate Little Gem — small-flowered, almost pure white, flushed pink HIBISCUS In recent years the evergreen hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) , often known as the Chinese hibiscus, has been planted rather exten- sively in frost-free areas of southern California and is listed by all leading nurserymen. The single red and double red are most common but colors include peachblow and single yellow. There should be ample heat as well as a freedom from killing frosts. In frosty places it will be better to select Hibiscus syriacus or althea (rose of Sharon), a deciduous species that is hardy but planted to only a very limited extent in California. Colors include rosy red, double white, double red, blotched white, and crimson. The marsh mallow (H. moschcutos) and its hybrids are often listed by seedsmen and have been popular as herbaceous perennials. HOLLY (Hex aquifolium) Recent publicity has created new interest in growing the English holly in California, but little hope can be held out for this beautiful berried shrub except in very favored locations, as may be found in the redwood belt or in small valleys near the coast with deep, fertile 146 California Agricultural Extension Service [Cir. 53 soil well supplied with moisture throughout the year. Elsewhere the holly may grow well but in most cases fails to berry satisfactorily. At best it takes a long time to come into bearing. Those who plant English holly for the berries should select a proved named variety like the Van Toll, or Dutch holly, as it is sometimes called. These plants come grafted and any failure to berry can be attributed to the environment, whereas seedlings may never berry even with a good environment. Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta) has done very well and is listed by some nurserymen. The Japanese holly or false holly, OsmafJtus aquifoliwm (0. japonica) is similar in foliage but its fragrant white flowers readily distinguish it from the English holly. California holly is a name applied to the toy on, Phofinia. OLEANDER (Nerium oleander) The warm inland valleys of California find the oleander one of the very best summer-flowering plants. Named varieties include Dr. Golfin, large, single, deep rose; Gigantea, tall, fragrant, double rose; Madame Sarah Bernhardt, large flower trusses, white streaked pink; Mrs. F. Roeding, salmon, fringed ; Nankin, good dwarf yellow; Sister Agnes, large trusses of pearly white. Cuttings of the oleander start readily in water. The plants are often badly attacked by scale insects, so may require spraying with a refined mineral oil spray. The foliage is poisonous to children and livestock. POINSETTIA (Euphorbia pulchi rrima) The poinsettia will grow outside and bloom satisfactorily in all of the frost-free districts of California. It will not stand much frost, but in some seasons there are no killing frosts until after Christmas; in such seasons, with a little covering at night, the plants may bloom successfully even with a little frost later. The frosted tips may be cut back and new growth forced out about June. The best time to take green cuttings for winter blooms is in June. The green cuttings from new growth are preferred to the old hardwood cuttings. Young rooted cuttings should not have the roots disturbed ; it is advisable to grow them in individual pots and later transplant them to other pots or to protected spots in the garden. There are three varieties, but only one of these is common. The scarlet-flowered, single variety is most popular and is the only one handled by most nurserymen. A double scarlet and a pink-flowered variety are occasionally grown. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 147 PYRACANTHA Pyracanthas or firethorns are valued for the berries which come when flowers are scarce. Pyracantha lalandi with its orange berries is at its best about August. Then P. crenulaia with red berries comes in early winter or late fall, but few of the berries are left by the birds. P. angustifoUa is beautiful with its dense clusters of orange berries about Christmas and New Year's, but unfortunately this species is very subject to pear blight and should never be grown where pears are important commercially. In any case this species should not be planted in pairs because if one plant should be killed by blight the symmetry of the planting would be spoiled. P. gibbsi yunanensis in orange-red and P. formosiana in red are excellent new species which ripen their berries in midwinter. Birds do not like the last three species very well. VERONICA Several species of veronicas are available for landscaping and give a very quick effect, but few of these are valued for flowers in the home. Yeronica hulkeana is very fine for cutting. The flowers of pale soft lilac are borne on long, slender stems in the spring and are very different from the more common species. The prostrate or dwarf species are now very popular as edgings in rock gardens. V. teucrium var. prostrata (rupestris), bright blue; V. repens, pale lilac; and V. pectinata, deep blue, are good examples of the low-growing, bright-colored varieties. MISCELLANEOUS EVERGREEN TREES Other evergreen trees which are listed by many nurserymen and may be used include: Jticaranda ovali folia (J. mimosas folia), valued for its large trusses of blue flowers; the large-flowered magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) ; and the pepper tree (Schinus mole), valued for its red berries. Most of these trees are shallow-rooted, gross feeders and injure all but the hardiest plants. NATIVE EVERGREEN SHRUBS California gardeners should not forget the many excellent native flowering shrubs. It would be possible to build a very respectable garden with only native shrubs and flowering plants. At least gar- deners should not omit the more promising kinds and should encourage nurserymen to handle these. Unless there is a dependable demand, nurserymen cannot afford to handle any plant, regardless of its merits. 148 California Agricultural Extension Service [C™- 5H Some of the native evergreens which either are popular, or should be, include: Arbutus menziesi (madrone) ; Arctostaphylos standfordiana and other species of manzanita; Carpenteria calif ornica; Ceanothus arboreus, Ceanothus cyaneus, and Ceanothus purpurea of the popular ceanothus (wild lilac) ; Fremontia mexicana; Photinia arbutifolia (toyon) ; and such species of Rhus as R. integrifoli-a and /». laurina. Some nursery firms specialize in these native plants and can add to the list just mentioned. Difficulties in transplanting have prevented them from being used more. THE RELATION OF HOME FLORICULTURE T< > LANDSCAPE DESIGN The growing of flowers in home gardens should never be separated from good landscape design. This publication lias devoted itself to the selection and growing of flowering plants, but the arrangement of these plants is very important. Flowers in a home garden should be arranged for color harmony, harmony of texture, good skyline, and succession of bloom. There should be a proper combination of flower- ing plants with other ornamentals. Such problems belong to the land- scape designer, and are beyond the scope of this circular. A few sug- gestions on color harmony in flowers will be offered, however, and may be supplemented by experience and good taste on the part of the gardener. COLOR HARMONY IN THE FLOWER GARDEN Most people sense pleasing color harmonies in flowers without stopping to reason why. Harmony is secured by using similar colors or pleasing contrasts. When the colors seen in the spectrum or rain- bow are arranged into a circle (fig. 30), the elementary colors — red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet — naturally have opposites. for example, red and green, orange and blue, yellow and violet. White is without color and true black does not occur in flowers. If black is added to the clear colors a shade is obtained. If white is added a tint is obtained. For example, yellow T with black gives old gold or with white gives sulfur. Red with black gives cardinal red, or with white, pink. It is advisable to use very similar colors in a planting or a bouquet, or else a. color close to opposite but not exactly opposite. For example, orange is the opposite of blue but most people prefer a contrast of blue and gold, or else a shade of pink with the blue. California 1931] Zome Floriculture in California 149 poppies and Nemophila (baby blue-eyes) would illustrate the former, blue marguerites (Felicia amelloides) and Cecile Brunner roses the latter combination. A shade of the contrasting color may be preferable, such as red with old gold, or possibly tints, such as light pinks with golden yellows. A subdued color will usually be needed with an intense color, if any combination is attempted. It is important to be careful with similar colors. Some reds with pink are normally ob- jectionable. Even salmon pink and cerise pink are not harmonious alone. It becomes necessary to choose wisely and in many cases to introduce neutral colors or peace-makers, such as white or green, to separate objectionable contrasts. Often this trouble may be partly avoided by using a great variety of colors so the eye will not rest on just a few poor combinations. Again it is possible for the tints or shades of one flower to gradually blend into those of adjoining flowers so that the general effect is pleasing. Segregation is safest for the beginner. Difficult colors like the magenta in Buginvillea spectabilis may be segregated by screening with green. The season of blooming should be studied in connection with color harmony; otherwise the prevailing color of an early planting may hold over to disrupt the harmony of a later planting. These brief suggestions will call attention to the problem. The color wheel shown in figure 30 can be used as a partial guide in avoiding trouble. White, green, gray, and the colors approaching black may be combined with almost any color. Popular color combinations include the following: 40 Blue and brown Blue and gold Blue and pink Blue and straw-color Blue and salmon Blue and orange Blue and yellow Blue, scarlet, and purple or lilac Blue, brown, crimson, and gold or yellow Blue, crimson, and orange Blue, purple, scarlet, yellow, and black Bed and gold Bed, yellow, and black Scarlet and violet Scarlet, blue, and white Scarlet, blue, and black or yellow Crimson and gold Crimson and yellow-green Crimson and purple Crimson, orange, and green Crimson, blue, gold, and green Purple and yellow Purple, scarlet, and gold Lilac and deep gold Lilac and primrose Lilac, crimson, and gold Lavender and pink Lavender and pale blue Violet and orange-yellow Violet and blue-lilac Orange and gold-orange 40 Some of the terms used may require further explanation. Black is used to designate a shade that is popularly called black as in a very dark pansy or black calla. Brown is usually a shade between black and red, or yellow. Lilac is light purple. Lavender is paler than lilac. Cerise is cherry color. Mauve is mallow pink. Many other such terms are in use and will be defined in the dictionary. 150 California Agricultural Extension Service [C™- 53 YELLOW Fig. 30. — The color wheel. Like harmonies may be classified as (1) neighbor- ing harmony, produced by colors located side by side on the color wheel, such as blue- violet, violet, and red-violet; (2) alternate neighboring harmony, produced by combining every other color on the wheel, such as yellow-green, blue-green, and blue-violet; and (3) self -tone harmony, produced by shades or tints of the same color, such as light and dark blue. Contrasting harmonies may be classified as (1) complementary harmony, pro- duced by two colors located directly opposite from one another on the color wheel, such as yellow and violet; (2) neighboring complementary harmony, produced by adding to the colors in a complementary harmony the neighboring colors of one of the complements, such as yellow and violet plus red-violet and blue- violet; and (3) triad harmony, made up of three colors located by revolving the triangle on the color wheel — red, yellow, and blue, for example. 1931] Home Floriculture in California 151 THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE HOME FLOWER GARDEN The owners of beautiful gardens can usually look back to a time when they were just beginning and just becoming interested. Many influences probably helped them toward success. The gift of some new plant material from a neighbor, a visit to a well-arranged home garden, a visit to a flower show, a lecture in a garden club meet- ing, an article in a floral magazine, or a list of novelties in a seed catalog may have given them suggestions for improving their gardens. New ideas should be welcomed at all times. New flowers, new methods, and new people are constantly coming to each neighborhood. Some improvement in the garden should be noted each year. At first interest may center in the plant itself, then follows the arrange- ment of the plant for a good garden effect, or a good effect in the home ; finally the home garden is equipped for greater comfort and ease. These are normal steps in progressive home floriculture. The garden should be made for enjoyment, both by the family and neighbors. Home gardeners should cultivate a neighborly feeling in the com- munity and encourage others to improve their gardens. There is no greater unifying element in a community than the common endeavor to improve homes and gardens. Home pride developed through the growing of flowers naturally leads to civic pride, and the whole com- munity and state is better for the endeavor. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express his appreciation of the assistance given by many California nurserymen and seedsmen in checking on various varieties of flowering plants and in supplying certain photo- graphs for illustrations. Professors J. W. Gregg and H. W. Shepherd or* the Division of Landscape Design kindly reviewed the manuscript and Professor S. B. Mitchell checked on iris and narcissus varieties. 152 California Agricultural Extension Servk i: [Cir.53 INDEX Acacia, 139. Acidity and alkalinity, 12. Adobe and clay management, 19. Alkali soils, 8. Almond, flowering, 128. Alwoodi alpinus, 97. Annual flowering plant — bedding, 28; climbing vines, 29 ; hints on culture, 70 ; low edging, 29 ; planting calen- dar, 51; tall, 28. Antirrhinum, 78. Aphis or plant lice — rose, 136; tulip, 120. Apricot, flowering, 127. Aquatic plants, 37. Aster — China, 70; perennial, 87. Auricula, 99. Azalea, 139. Basket plants, 38. Bedding annuals, 28. Betchel's flowering crab, 126. Bignonia, 124. Birds and rabbits, protection from, on sweet peas, 83. Blasting of flowers, cam ill ia, 142. Blooming periods, 24. Bog plants, 38. Borders, perennial, 31. Buginvillea, 125. Bulb flies, 118. Bulbs — depth to plant, 106; Cape, 106; miscellaneous, 122. Bulbs and roots, 102. Bulbs, when to plant, 52. Cacti, growing from seed, 44. Calendula, 71. California poppy, 71. Callistephus chenensis, 70. Camellias, 141. Campanula, 87. Canterbury bells, 87. Cape bulbs, 106. Cape honeysuckle, 126. Carnation, 88. Chemical plant foods, 13. Cherry, flowering, 128. Chrysanthemum, 89. Clematis, L23. Climatic divisions, 4. Climbing plants — annual, 29; decid- uous, 123, 32; evergreen, L24, 34. Cli/tostoma, 125. Cold frame, 20. Color combinations, 149. Color harmony in the flower garden, 148. Cowslip, 99. Crab apple, flowering, 126. Cultivation, 18. Cut flowers, 39. Cuttings — calendar for starting, 69; hardened green, 40; leaf, 41; ripened wood, 40; root, 41; soft green, 40. Daffodil, 117. Dahlia, 102. Damping-off fungus on petunia, 77. Daj. line, 143. Deciduous climbing plants, 123. Deciduous shrubs and trees, 32. Delphinium — annual, 73; perennial, 93. IHabrotica on dahlias, 105. Bianthus — carnation, 88; pinks, 96. Disease and pest control, references, \. Disinfecting bulbs — gladiolus, 110; narcissus, 118. Doxantha, 125. Drainage, 9, 14, 44. Drouth-resistant plants, 36. Edgings, biennial and perennial, 31. English holly, 145. Erica, 143. Equipment for home gardens and for propagating plants, 20. Escallonia, 144. 1931 Home Floriculture in California 153 Esehscholtzia, 71. Eucalyptus, 144. Evergreen climbers, 34, 124. Evergreen native shrubs, 147. Evergreen shrubs and trees, 33, 139, 147. Exposure in the garden, 7. Failure to bloom- — daphne, 143 ; nar- cissus, 117. Fertility of garden soils, 9. Fertilizer program, 14. Fertilizers — availability, 14 ; composi- tion, 13; kinds, 11; use of, 11. Floriculture, definition of, 1. Flowering almond, 128. Flowering apricot, 127. Flowering cherry, 128. Flowering crab apple, 126. Flowering peach, 127. Flowering plum, 127. Flowers, keeping after cutting, 106. Flowers and ornamentals for special uses, 26. Flowers for quick effect, 28. Flowers for more permanent effect, 32. Forcing with liquid manure, 15. Fragrant flowers, 38. Freesia, 106. Fuchsia., 144. Gaillardia, 94. Garden soils, 8. Gerbera, 95. Germination period for seeds, 49. Geum, 95. Gladiolus, 107. Grasses, yuccas, and similar plants, 34. Green cuttings, 41. Greenhouses, 20. Gum, red-flowered, 144. Hanging basket plants, 38. Hardenbergia, 125. Heather, 143. Hibiscus, 145. Holly— California, 146; Chinese, 146; English, 145 ; Japanese or False, 146. Home flowers garden, development, 151. Home floriculture, relation to land- scape design, 148. Hot bed, 20. Hydrangea, 129. Ilex aquifolium, 145. Insects, references on, 4. Iris, 112. Irrigation — amount of, 16 ; methods, 15. Irrigation and tillage, 15. Ixia, 107. Jasmine, 125; star, 125. Jessamine, 125. Jonquil, 119, 125. Kaido crab apple, 126. Lapeirousia, 107. Larkspur — annual, 73; perrenial, 93. Lath house, 20. Lath shelter, 21. Latliyrus, 80. Layers for propagating, 42. Lilies; true, 114; China, 117; water, 121. Liquid manure, 15. Local situation, 7. Malcomia, 85. Manure, 12. Manure; liquid, 15. Mathiola, 77. Mealybug, on gladiolus, 111. Meconopsis baileyi, 98. Michaelmas daisy, 87. Mildew — on sweet pea, 82 ; on del- phinium, 94. Moisture regulation, 17. Mulches, 12. Narcissus, 117. Native evergreen shrubs, 147. Nerium oleander, 146. Nitrogen fertilizers, 13. Nomenclature; authority for, 4. Nursery flat, 22. Nursery management references, 21. Nursery plants ; when to set out, 52. Nutrients for plants, 10. Oleander, 146. Orchid ; reference, 22. Organic matter in the soil, 10. Ornamental grasses, 31. Pandorea, 126. Pansy, 73. Pap aver, 98. 154 California Agricultural Extension Service [° ir - 53 Peach, flowering-, 127. Pear blight, 142. Pentstemon, 96. Peony — herbaceous, 123; tree, 137. Perennial plants — for borders, 31; for low edgings, 31; for permanent effect, 32; for quick effect, 31. Petunia, 76. Phaedrantlms, 125. Phlox, 97. Phosphorus fertilizers, 13. Pinks, perennial, 96. Plant foods, 13. Planting calendar, 51. Planting in the open, 43. Planting seed, 44. Peach, flowering, 127. Plum, flowering-, 127. Poinsettia, 146. Poppy, perennial, 98. Portable or miniature gardens, 27. Potash fertilizers, 13. Pot marigold, 71. Pot plants, 38. Primrose or primula, 99. Propagating materials, 21. Propagation — by cuttings, 40; divi- sion, 42 ; layers, 42 ; leaves, 41 ; seed, 43. Pruning roses, 134. Prunus species, 127. Pyraeantha, 147. Pyre thrum, 100. Pyrostegia, 125. Pyrus species, 125 Eed spider — on sweet peas, 82 ; on violets, 101. Ehododendron, 139. Eock-garden plants, 37. Eose, hints on growing, 129. Eust, on snapdragon, 78. Sage, flowering, 100. Salpiglossis, 77. Salvia, 100. Sandy soil, management, 19. Scab, on gladiolus, 110. Scabiosa, 77. Scale insects on crab apple, 127. Seasonal aspects of the flower garden, 23. Seed— depth to plant, 44; flat, 22; germination period, 49; pan, 223; planting and care of, 44; protecting against sun, 45. Seedlings — car of, 46; transplanting, 46; hardening off, 47. Seeds — soil for, 43; viability, 47; when to plant, 52. Shade, plants for, 35. Shrubs — deciduous flowering, 32 ; ever- green, 139; native evergreen, 1 17. Situation, local, 7. Slug, rose, 136. Slugs and snails, 94. Solandnt. L25. Snapdragon, 78. Snout beetle, rose, 136. Soil — acidity and alkalinity, L2, analy- sis, limitations, 14; fertilizers, 13; for growing seeds, 43 ; mulches, 1 2 ; nutrients, 10; sterilization, 45; wetting in seed flats, 45. Soils; classes, 8. Sparaxis, 107. Sprinkling, 16. Slaking — chrysanthemums, 92; dah- lias, 105. Star jasmine, 125. Sterilizing soil, 45. Stock, 79; Virginian, 85. Sun; plants for, 35, 36. Sweet pea, 80. Sweet william, 96. Sweet wivelsfield, 97. Tecomaria, 126. Tecomas and related plants, 126. Tillage and cultivation, 18. Trachelospermum, 125. Transplanting, 46. Transvaal daisy, 95. Tree peony, 137. Trees — deciduous, 32; evergreen, 139, 147, 34. Tritonia, 107. Trumpet flower, 124. Tulip, 119. Varieties of flowers, 70. 1931 Home Floriculture in California 155 Ventilation, 46. Veronica, 147. Viability of seeds, 47. Vines — annual, 29 ; deciduous, 32, 123 ; evergreen, 34, 124. Viola, 76. Violet, 101. Virginian stock, 85. Water lily, 121. Water plants, flowering, 37. Watsonia, 123. Weed control, 19. Window box plants, 38. Wireworms on dahlias, 105. Wisteria, 124. Wonga wonga vine, 126. Zephyranthes, 123. Zinnia, 85. AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE CIRCULARS No. 3. 5. 7. 8. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 28. Feeding Beef Cattle in California. Lettuce: Series on California Crops and Prices. Suggestions on Grapefruit Culture in Imperial Valley. Diseases and Parasites of Poultry in California. Rabbit Raising. The Home Preparation of Fruit Candy. Cauliflower Production. Wool Production in California. The Manufacture of Monterey Cheese. Selection and Care of Electrical Equip- ment Used in Dairy Manufacturing. Pork Production in California. Irrigation of Orchards by Contour Fur- rows. Liver Fluke and Stomach Worm of Sheep. Bovine Tuberculosis. Thinning Sugar Beets. Strawberry Culture in California. Enterprise Efficiency Studies on Cali- fornia Farms. Bush Fruit Culture in California. The Home Vegetable Garden. Brooding and Pullet Management. No. 29. Control of Pocket Gophers and Moles in California. 30. Elements of Grape Growing in Cali- fornia. 31. Powdery Mildew of the Grape and Its Control in California. 32. What to do About Bovine Tuberculosis. 33. Rearing Dairy Heifers Free from Tuber- culosis and Abortion Disease. 34. Plum Growing in California. 35. Alfalfa Production. 36. Beekeeping for the Beginner in Cali- fornia. 37. Home and Farm Preparation of Pickles. 38. Alfalfa Varieties and Seed Supply. 40. Frost Protection in California Orchards. 41. Prune Culture in California. 42. Peach Culture in California. 43. The California Avocado Industry. 44. Bang's Disease (Infectious Abortion). 45. Zinc Chloride Treatment for Pear Blight Cankers. 46. Cherry Culture in California. 47. Equipment for the Bulk Handling of Grain. 48. The Manufacture of Cottage Cheese. STATION PUBLICATIONS AVAILABLE FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION BULLETINS No. 253. 263. 277. 279. 283. 304. 310. 331. 335. 343. 344. 347. 348. 349. 357. 361. 362. 363. 364. 366. 368. 369. 370. 371. 373. 374. 379. 386. 388. 389. 390. 391. 392. 393. 394. 396. 404. 405. 406. 407. 408. 409. 410. 412. 414. Irrigation and Soil Conditions in the Sierra Nevada Foothills, California. Size Grades for Ripe Olives. Sudan Grass. Irrigation of Rice in California. The Olive Insects of California. A Study of the Effects of Freezes on Citrus in California. Plum Pollination. Phylloxera-resistant Stocks. Cocoanut Meal as a Feed for Dairy Cows and Other Livestock. Cheese Pests and Their Control. Cold Storage as an Aid to the Market- ing of Plums, a Progress Report. The Control of Red Spiders in Decid- uous Orchards. Pruning Young Olive Trees. A Study of Sidedraft and Tractor Hitches. A Self-Mixing Dusting Machine for Applying Dry Insecticides and Fun- gicides. Preliminarv Yield Tables for Second- Growth Redwood. Dust and the Tractor Engine. The Pruning of Citrus Trees in Cali- fornia. Fungicidal Dusts for the Control of Bunt. Turkish Tobacco Culture, Curing, and Marketing. Bacterial Decomposition of Olives During Pickling. Comparison of Woods for Butter Boxes. Factors Influencing the Development of Internal Browning of the Yellow Newtown Apple. The Relative Cost of Yarding Small and Large Timber. Pear Pollination. A Survey of Orchard Practices in the Citrus Industry of Southern Cali- fornia. Walnut Culture in California. Pruning Bearing Deciduous Fruit Trees. The Principles and Practice of Sun- Drying Fruit. Berseem or Egyptian Clover. Harvesting and Packing Grapes in California. Machines for Coating Seed Wheat with Copper Carbonate Dust. Fruit Juice Concentrates. Crop Sequences at Davis. I. Cereal Hay Production in California. II. Feeding Trials with Cereal Hays. The Mat Bean, Phaseolus Aconitifolius. The Dehydration of Prunes. Citrus Culture in Central California. Stationary Spray Plants in California. Yield, Stand, and Volume Tables for White Fir in the California Pine Region. Alternaria Rot of Lemons. The Digestibility of Certain Fruit By- products as Determined for Rumi- nants. Part I. Dried Orange Pulp and Raisin Pulp. Factors Influencing the Quality of Fresh Asparagus After it is Harvested. A Study of the Relative Value of Cer- tain Root Crops and Salmon Oil as Sources of Vitamin A for Poultry. Planting and Thinning: Distances for Deciduous Fruit Trees. No. 415. 416. 418. 419. 420. 421. 423" 425. 426. 427. 428. 431. 432. 433. 434. 435, 436. 438. 439. 440. 444. 445. 446. 447. 448. 449. 450. 451. 452. 454. 455. 456. 458. 459. 460. 462. 464. 465. The Tractor on California Farms. Culture of the Oriental Persimmon in California. A Study of Various Rations for Fin- ishing Range Calves as Baby Beeves. Economic Aspects of the Cantaloupe Industry. Rice and Rice By-Products as Feeds for Fattening Swine. Beef Cattle Feeding Trials, 1921-24. Apricots (Series on California Crope and Prices). Apple Growing in California. Apple Pollination Studies in California. The Value of Orange Pulp for Milk Production. The Relation of Maturity of California Plums to Shipping and Dessert Quality. Raisin By-Products and Bean Screen- ings as Feeds for Fattening Lambs. Some Economic Problems Involved in the Pooling of Fruit. Power Requirements of Electrically Driven Dairy Manufacturing Equip- ment. Investigations on the Use of Fruits in Ice Cream and Ices. The Problem of Securing Closer Rela- tionship between Agricultural Devel- opment and Irrigation Construction. I. The Kadota Fig. II. The Kadota Fig Products. Grafting Affinities with Special Refer- ence to Plums. The Digestibility of Certain Fruit By- Products as Determined for Rumi- nants. Part II. Dried Pineapple Pulp, Dried Lemon Pulp, and Dried Olive Pulp. The Feeding Value of Raisins and Dairy By-Products for Growing and Fattening Swine. Beans (Series on California Crops and Prices). Economic Aspects of the Apple In- dustry. The Asparagus Industry in California. A Method of Determining the Clean Weights of Individual Fleeces of Wool. Farmers' Purchase Agreement for Deep Well Pumps. Economic Aspects of the Watermelon Industry. Irrigation Investigations with Field Crops at Davis, and at Delhi, Cali- fornia, 1909-1925. Studies Preliminary to the Establish- ment of a Series of Fertilizer Trials in a Bearing Citrus Grove. Economic Aspects of the Pear Industry. Rice Experiments in Sacramento Val- ley, 1922-1927. Reclamation of the Fresno Type of Black-Alkali Soil. Yield, Stand and Volume Tables for Red Fir in California. Factors Influencing Percentage Calf Crop in Range Herds. Economic Aspects of the Fresh Plum Industry. Lemons (Series on California Crops and Prices). Prune Supply and Price Situation. Drainage in the Sacramento Valley Rice Fields. Curly Top Symptoms of the Sugar Beet. BULLETINS — (Continued) No. No. 466. The Continuous Can Washer for Dairy 484. Plants. 467. Oat Varieties in California. 485. 468. Sterilization of Dairy Utensils with 486. Humidified Hot Air. 469. The Solar Heater. 487. 470. Maturity Standards for Harvesting Bartlett Pears for Eastern Shipment. 488. 471. The Use of Sulfur Dioxide in Shipping Grapes. 489. 472. Adobe Construction. 473. Economic Aspects of the Sheep In- dustry. 474. Factors Affecting the Cost of Tractor 490. Logging in the California Pine Region. 491. 475. Walnut Supply and Price Situation. 477. Improved Methods of Harvesting Grain 492. Sorghum. 493. 478. Feeding and Management of Dairy 494. Calves in California. 495. 479. I. Irrigation Experiments with Peaches in California. II. Canning Quality 496. of Irrigated Peaches. 480. The Use, Value, and Cost of Credit in Agriculture. 497. 481. Utilization of Wild Oat Hay for Fat- tening Yearling Steers. 498. 482. Substitutes for Wooden Breakpins. 500. 483. Utilization of Surplus Prunes. The Effects of Desiccating Winds on Citrus Trees. Drying Cut Fruits. Pullorum Disease (Bacillary White Diarrhea of Chickens). Asparagus (Series on California Crops and Prices). Cherries (Series on California Crops and Prices). Irrigation Water Requirement Studies of Citrus and Avocado Trees in San Diego County, California, 1926 and 1927. Olive Thinning and Other Means of Increasing Size of Olives. Yield, Stand, and Volume Tables for Douglas Fir in California. Berry Thinning of Grapes. Fruit Markets in Eastern Asia. Infectious Bronchitis in Fowls. Milk Cooling on California Dairy Farms. Precooling of Fresh Fruits and Tem- peratures of Refrigerator Cars and Warehouse Rooms. A Study of the Shipment of Fresh Fruits and Vegetables to the Far East. Pickling Green Olives. Dehydration of Grapes. No. 117. The Selection and Cost of a Small Pumping Plant. 127. House Fumigation. 178. The Packing of Apples in California. 203. Peat as a Manure Substitute. 212. Salvaging Rain-Damaged Prunes. 230. Testing Milk, Cream, and Skim Milk for Butterfat. 232. Harvesting and Handling California Cherries for Eastern Shipment. 239. Harvesting and Handling Apricots and Plums for Eastern Shipment. 240. Harvesting and Handling California Pears for Eastern Shipment. 241. Harvesting and Handling California Peaches for Eastern Shipment. 243. Marmalade Juice and Jelly Juice from Citrus Fruits. 244. Central Wire Bracing for Fruit Trees. 245. Vine Pruning Systems. 248. Some Common Errors in Vine Pruning and Their Remedies. 249. Replacing Missing Vines. 250. Measurement of Irrigation Water on the Farm. 253. Vineyard Plans. 255., Leguminous Plants as Organic Ferti- lizers in California Agriculture. 257. The Small-Seeded Horse Bean (Vicia faba var. minor). 258. Thinning Deciduous Fruits. 259. Pear By-Products. 261. Sewing Grain Sacks. 262. Cabbage Production in California. 263. Tomato Production in California. 265. Plant Disease and Pest Control. 266. Analyzing the Citrus Orchard by Means of Simple Tree Records. CIRCULARS No. 269. 270. 273. 276. 278. 279. 282. 287. 288. 290. 294. 295. 296. 301. 302. 304. 307. 308. 310. 311. 312. 313. 316. 317. 318. 319. 320. An Orchard Brush Burner. A Farm Septjc Tank. Saving the Gophered Citrus Tree. Home Canning. Olive Pickling in Mediterranean Countries. The Preparation and Refining of Olive Oil in Southern Europe. Prevention of Insect Attack on Stored Grain. Potato Production in California. Phylloxera Resistant Vineyards. The Tangier Pea. Propagation of Deciduous Fruits. Growing Head Lettuce in California. Control of the California Ground Squirrel. Buckeye Poisoning of the Honey Bee. The Sugar Beet in California. Drainage on the Farm. American Foulbrood and Its Control. Cantaloupe Production in California. The Operation of the Bacteriological Laboratory for Dairy Plants. The Improvement of Quality in Figs. Principles Governing the Choice, Oper- ation, and Care of Small Irrigation Pumping Plants. Fruit Juices and Fruit Juice Beverages. Electrical Statistics for California Farms. Fertilizer Problems and Analysis of Soils in California. Termites and Termite Damage. Pasteurizing Milk for Calf Feeding. Preservation of Fruits and Vegetables by Freezing Storage. 24m-8,'31