4*< THE onn/* ta Imrklrm; ^ AVXTU APPENDICES: BT MAJOPt H. 13. LUMSDEN. WITH SUPPLEMENTARY REPOUT OF TUE EXPEDITION INTO UPPER MEERANZYE AND KOOBBUM IN ISoG. CALCUTTA: PRINTED BY C. B. LEWIS, BAPTIST MISSION PRESS. 1860. ■-^; ■ L.77 HENRY MOF^SE STEPHENS CONTENTS. Resume of Events, ... ... ... ... .. Page 1 Future Prospects, ... ... ... ... ... 6 Character of Chiefs. The Amir,... ... ... ... ... ib. Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Klian, ... ... ... 7 Sirdars Futeh Muhammad Khan and Jallaluddin Khan, ... ... ib. Sirdars Shahsawur Khan and Shjihbaz Khan, ... ... ib. The heir-apparent, ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 Sirdar Muhammad Azlm Khan, ... ... ... ib, Sher All Khan, ... ... ... ... ... ... 9 Younger Sons of the Amir, ... ... ... ... 10 Distribution of Troops,... ... ... ... ... ... ib. Strength of the Regular Army, ... ... ... 11 Recruiting, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ib. Pay, ... 12 Punishments,.,. ... ... .. ... ... ... ib. Desertions, ... ... ... ... ... ib. Arms, accoutrements and clothing, ... ... ... ... ib, Officers, ... ... ... ... ... ... 13 Generals, and their duties, ... ... ... ... ... ib. Shere Mahomed Khan (Campbell,) ... ... ... ... ... 14 General Faramosh Khan, ... ... ... ... ... ib. Rustum Khan, ... ... ... ... ... 15 Feeling of contingents towards each other, ... ... ... ib. Cavalry, .. ... ... ... ... ... 16 Artillery, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ib. General remarks on the Army, ... ... ... ib. Jezailchis, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 17 Irregular Cavalry,... ... ... ... ... 18 Commissariat, ... ... ... ... ... ... ib. «i> .1. .-i O !..> o [ IV ] Magazines, Page 19 Carriage, ... ib. Eemounts, ib. Arab Cross, ... ... ib. Affglian Horses, ... 20 Turkoman ditto. ... ib. Forts, ... 21 Fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie, ... ib. Characters of the feudal nobility. . ... 22 Sirdars Pir Muhammad Khan, Sultan Muhammad Khan and Kaundil Klian,... 23 Sirdar Shere Ali Khan,... ... ib. Sirdar Shumsh-ud-din Khan, .. ... 24 Shahdowlah Kban, ... ib. Sirdar Abdul Gyas Khan, ... ib. Sirdar Muhammad Asman Khan, ... ib. Amin-ullah Khan and sons,... 25 Muhammad Shah Khan, .. ib. Ikram Khan Achakzie, ib. Ilafiz-ji, ... 26 Khan Sirdar Khan, ib. Nazir Nairn, ... ... ib. Effects of Barakzle rule on the country generally, 27 Law and Justice, ... ib. AfFghan provincial rulers, . ... 28 Revenue Collections, ... ib. Taxes, ... 30 Population, ... ... 31 Foreign Policy of the Amir, 32 With Belochistau, ... ib. With Persia, ib. With Herat,... ... 33 In Turkistan, ib. With Bokhara, ... ib. Appendix A. The Pinur Eoute from Kohat to Cabul and Ghazni. Tlie distances as far as the Kurram fort, measured with a perambulator, by Lieut. Garnett, Engineers, November, 1857. The remainder are approximate, 43 ' [ V ] Appendix B. Some account of the Tribes through whose country tlie Paiwar route from Kobat to Cabul passes, after leaving the British Border, ... ... 58 Appendix C. Sketch of Affghan tribes bordering and occupying the head of Bolan Pass, from information collected at Kandahar, ... .. ... 70 Appendix D. A few notes on AfTghan field-sports ... ... ... 80 Appendix E. Traders and Trade of Western Affghanistan, ... ... ... 91 Appendix F. A description of Kaffiristan and its inhabitants, compiled from tlie ac- counts by Mr. Elphiustone and Sir A. Burnes, as well as from informa- tion gathered from KiifTir slaves in the service of different Affghan Sirdars, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 112 A Vocabulary of the Kaffir Language as spoken in Traicguma and Waigul, ... ... ... ... ... 124 Appendix G. Routes from Farrah to Kirman, &c., General and Medical Report of the Kandahar Mission : — A Brief Description of the Country between Kohat and Kandahar, Some observations on Affghanistan and the Affghans, Repoi't on the Kandahar Charitable Dispensary, 1G8 171 ib. 200 229 Appendix I. Notes on the Flora of Affghanistan, ... ... ... ... 247 SUPPLEMENT. Report of tlie Expedition into Upper Meeranzye and Koorrum, ... 255 Appendix. Some Notes on the Valley of Koorrum and its People, ... ... 277 (Copy.) From Majoh H. B. Lumsden, Ka n daha r Misa io ii, To The Secretary tctthe Chief Commissioner op the Punjab. Dafid Pefihaicar, )i>t Jiihj, 1858. Sir, The oLjects of the Missiou to Kimdahar, with the charge of ,,,. , , 4 n r" which Government was pleased to entrust Av ith apiieiidices A. u. C. *^ 1). E. V. G. and II. and Dr. me, having been accomplished, I deem it ' ■ my duty on return to Peshawar to offer a few observations on Affghanistan, its Army and its Pulers. It would be presumptuous in me to recapitulate what has already been so well described, in that ablest work ever published on a serai-barbarous country, "Elphinstone's Cabul,^* viz.: the History and Topography of Affghanistan ; neither is it necessary for me to take up the subject of the British occupation of that country, and our disasters in it; for that narrative has been written from different points of view by many eye-witnesses ; and, under the able authorship of a Kaye, is to be found condensed in an interesting and historical form : suttice it to say that a very large proportion of the names which figured on both sides in that eventful struggle have passed away, and much of the asperity to whicli it gave rise has been softened by time. 2. It may, however, be useful to make a rapid resumed of the prin- cipal events which have taken place, siuce the return of the Amir to his kingdom, and to bring the history of the country down to the present date. 3. in 1848, Sirdar Muhammad Akbar Klian, heir-apparent to the Amir's throne, died; and it was shortly Resume of events. „ i • i , , -. , aiterwartls proclanned to the world that the Amir had selected Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan (in preference to the elder members of his family) as his successor; and every exertion has B [ 2 ] since been made on tlie part of the Amir to concentrate power and influence in the hands of this Sirdar. 4. In 1850, the Amir annexed Balkh to his dominions, placing Sirdar Muhammad AfzalKhan, his eldest son, in the Government of the district. And four years afterwards (on the death of Sirdar Kohandil Khan) he annexed Kandahar, being driven to this step (as the Barak- zais allege) by the discovery that his brother Eahmdil Khan was intriguing with Persia, and willing to make Kandahar a province of that Empire. 5. It was on the completion of this step, and while the Amir was still at Kandahar, that the Persians advanced from Mashad, occupied Herat, captured and afterwards murdered Yusuf Khan, the Governor, pushed their outposts forward to Aumardarrah, and threat- ened an advance on Kandahar. 6. In the interim (on the 30th March, 1855) Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, on the part of his father, entered into an amicable treaty with the Bi^itisli Government, binding the Amir to be the friend of our friends, and the enemy of our enemies ; " So that on his dominions being threatened from without, the Amir naturally turned to his new allies, who, he could not help seeing, had at worst, been the most generous of his enemies." 7. The British representatives at Teheran, having, on the Persian advance on Herat, suspended diplomatic relations, a British force was pushed round from Bombay by sea to Bushire ; and it had to be decided what part the Aflfghans would play in the coming struggle. The Amir, evidently doubtful of his ability to hold his newly acquired province of Kandahar, re- built the Fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie and made it, what the Affghans consider impregnable, — or at any rate sufficiently strong to defy the efforts of any Persian force advancing on Cabul or Ghazni to reduce it; and leaving Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan in charge of Kandahar, he himself returned to his capital; and shortly afterwards (towards the close of 1856) met the Chief Commissioner of the Panjab at Peshawar, and personally entered into the treaty of the 6th January, 1857, binding himself thereby, on consideration of receiv- ing a monthly subsidy of one lakh of rupees, during the continuance of hostilities with the Persians, to keep up a certain number of regular troops for the defence of Afifghanistan, and agreeing that British Officers should be deputed to any portion of his dominions to see that [ 3 ] the subsidy was really applied to the purpose for which it was granted, and to assist the Aflfghans in every way in military matters when called on to do so. 8. A Mission composed of three British Officers, Major H. B. Lumsden of the Guides, Lieut. Lumsden of the Quarter Master Ge- neral's Department, and Dr. Bellew, assisted by Gholam Sarwar Khan Khagwani, and accompanied by Nawab Faujdar Khan Bahadur, (who was to be the Vakeel of the British Government at Cabul) left Peshawar on the 13th March, 1857, and reconnoitring en route, the "Ispin Ghawi'' and " Shutur Gardan," passes hitherto untrod by European foot, and an account of which is given in Appendix A. and B. arrived at Kandahar on the 2(3th April, and lost no opportunity of attempting to regain the confidence of the Affghans generally, and of carrying out the instructions of Government. 9. On the happy termination of the British expedition to the Persian Gulph, and the outlines of the treaty of peace between the British and Persian Governments (of the 4th March, 18-'37) becoming generally known, great satisfaction was expressed by all classes of Affghans ; but about the same time news arrived of the breaking out of that fiery trial of British valour and energy, the mutiny of the Bengal Army ; and for mouths all men's thoughts were concentrated on Hindustan. As the storm thickened, urged by the preaching of bigoted Muhammadan zealots, pressed on by the secret machinations of the •' Peshawary Brothers," Sirdars Sultan Muhammad Khan and Pir Muhammad Khan, the Affghan nation called on the Amir to put himself at the head of the faithful, raise the green standard of " Islam," to which thousands would flock, and pouring down the passes to sweep the infidel Faringi from the contaminated soil of Plindustan ; and thus once more re-establish Muhammadan supremacy throughout Asia. The excitement throughout the country was intense, and the moinent a most critical one, for the resolution of the aged ruler seemed for an instant to stagger; and his better judgment was on the point of being | swept along with the popular torrent, when his son Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan had the moral courage to come to the rescue, and exposing himself to the full tide of popular disappointment, he reminded the Sirdars of the power of the British nation, of the many storms which had already burst harmlessly over their heads ; and that failure would be to the Amir, the certain loss of his kingdom ; and openly accused the B 2 [ ^' ] " Posliawavy Brothers" of getting up the agitation in the hope of ruin- ing his father for their own aggrandizement. The step was a bold one, and caused a momentary estrangement between the Amir and his son ; but the former on a httle reflection recalled Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan to his councils, approved of and acted on his advice, and being materially strengthened by the cool and determined bearing of our frontier authorities in the Peshawar district, the Amir weathered the stoi'm, which entirely subsided on the fall of Delhi. Throughout that anxious period, I was in daily intercourse with the heir-apparent, who having had the advantage of seeing the signs of our power during his visit to Bombay, Madras and Calcutta, was fully convinced of the necessity of controlling the hasty rashness uf his countrymen ; and frequent expresses passed up, in hot haste, to Cabul, imploring the Amir to pursue a determined policy, adhesive to the British Alliance. 10. On the 27th July, the Persians ostensibly evacuated Herat in accordance with the terms of the treaty, placing that government in the hands of a creature of their own, Sirdar Sultan Ahmad Khan, better known as Sultan Jan, a son of the late Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, and nephew of the Amir. He selected for his minister Sirdar Sher Ali Khan, second son of the late Kandahari Sirdar Mihrdil Khan ; and in October Colonel R. Taylor, with a British Commission, arrived from Bagdad at Herat, and in the name of the British acknow- ledged the de facto Government. The Persian forces all the while hovered in strong masses about the Herat frontier; and it was generally believed that under the pretext of concentrating preparatory to a move against the Turkomans, they were only watching the progress of events in India ; and it was not until the tide of fortune was seen to have turn- ed decidedly in our favour that they advanced towards Shahrukhs. 11. Colonel Taylor's party left Herat about the 1st March, 1858, although the Jews and Hazarahs carried off from Herat had not been given up, and Lash Jowain still remained in the hands of Persia, and Sirdar Sultan Jan acknowledged the sovereignty of the Shah over Herat by having the " Khutbah" read, and coinage struck in the name of the Shah ; and on the departure of these Officers the Sirdar gave out that he had dismissed the Mission, having made up his mind to have nothing to say to infidels. 12. Towards the end of February 1858, the clergy of Kandahar, always a turbulent body of bigots, actuated by the belief that Sirdar [ o ] Gliolam Hydar Khan had been bribed by the Hindus of Kandahar to allow a young Hindu lad (whom the Miilahs alleged to have become a convert to Islam) to return to idolatry, rose in open revolt, and being- joined by the chiefs and the majority of the regular troops, demanded from the heir-apparent the Hindu boy, who in the meantime had escaped to Shikarpur. The Sirdar was obliged to give way, and put the boy's father into confinement as a guai'antee that on the boy's re- turn he would be delivered up. For a few days matters looked very serious, and a general disturbance was imminent, till the confession of weakness on the part of the heir-apparent temporarily settled things, and affairs at Kandahar resumed their usual course. 13. Shortly after this Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan proceeded to join the Amir at Cabul, making over charge of Kandahar to Sirdar Fateh Muhammad Khan. JMeanwhile the aspect of Persian aflairs had materially changed, and the blustering valour of that army had been made to succumb to the wily tactics of the wild Turkomans ; led on by the expectation of plunder, the Persians after taking Shahrukhs and leaving Shahdawlat Khan (a fugitive Affghan Sirdar) to rule the pro- vince, pushed on to Marw, and encamped before it for upwards of a month without making any impression on the garrison, until at last Shahzadah Sultan i\Iurad Mirza finding his army starving, and reduced to living on tlie baggage donkeys, ordered a retrograde movement on Mashad, but had not proceeded many miles before the Persians found themselves completely enveloped by Turkoman hordes, a situation which caused a panic among his troops, in which the leader was one of the first to consult his personal safety in flight, leaving the great mass of his army to be taken prisoners and carried off into hopeless slavery. About the same time a strong body of Persian re-inforcements advanc- ing from Teheran under Jafir Kuli Khan, received a like check at Mazenan, the leader himself escaping with difficulty. 14. On the 14th May Sirdar Kahmdil Khan, the Ex-ruler of Kandahar, reached his capital en route to Teheran, having received the Amir's permission to leave Atighanistan and given out that he was on the point of proceeding on a pilgrimage to Mecca. As we had already been informed that arrangements had been made by the Amir for the return of the Mission by the same route which we had taken in enter- ing Atighanistan, I thought it better for the interest of Govei'ument to withdraw the Mission at once, as a matter of course, rather than, by [ ] delaying, to get mixed up in any disturbance which would probably follow the return of Sirdar Rahmdil Khan to Kandahar ; and therefore the Mission left that town on our return journey, on the 1 5th Ma}^, and arrived at Peshawur without the slightest inconvenience by the end of June. 15. It is impossible for any stranger, from a study of the present ^ state of parties in Affsfhanistan, to form a i^uture prospects. '■ ^ ^ probable conjecture as to who may succeed to the throne of Cabul on the Amir's death, for even the best inform- ed among Affghans themselves do not pretend to guess at it ; their constant prayer is " that the life of the Amir may be preserved.'^ The great elements of popularity in Affghanistan a:id of power in any country, — money and troops, would lead one to speculate on the chances of Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, or his family ; while personal courage and qualifications as a leader, might collect the daring spirits of the country round Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan ; but there is no certainty that any of the Amir's sons will succeed ; for, as it has frequently hap- pened in Asiatic States, some enterprising spirit may dash out of the crowd, and by his own good sword and personal character alone, carry off the prize. One thing, however, seems inevitable, and that is that on the Amir's death, a struggle for power must ensue, and will probably result in the total humiliation of one of the leading branches of the Amir's family, or the dismemberment of the present AfFghan monarchy into a number of petty states, when anarchy must prevail, commerce cease, and this unfortunate country be once more deluged in blood. 16. The Amir Dost Muhammad Khan is now over seventy years of a^e ; his carriao^e is slightly bent, but Character of chiefs. The Amir. ,. .'','^ —,, -, , -, his tall figure may still be observed tower- ing above the crowd ; where strangers could not but remark the indi- vidual whose master-spirit has ever carried him forward through the most eventful of lives, and now points him out as the most remarkable character in central Asia, The late Sir Alexander Burnes in his report to Government has already well described his character ; and although the Amir has all but lived out the average allotted years of man, his mind still retains much of the vigour of his younger days ; and he dis- plays the same quick perception of character, with the caution, and promptitude of action, which marked his early career. As a Ruler, judged by our European model, he would be considered a despotic [ 7 ] tyrant ; but as a master-spirit over such a superstitious^ barbarous and discontented race as tlie AfFglians have ever shewn themselves to be^ he has proved himself equal to his position, and superior in clemency to any of his predecessors. 17. Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan, whose mother was the daugh- ter of a Mallik of the Tori village of Chil- Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan. . ^ . . layan in Kuram, is the Amir's eldest son, and Governor of Balkh ; he is said lately to have given his daughter in marriage to the eldest son of the Khan of Bokhara, and at the same time betrothed his own son to the daughter of that chief; a circum- stance which may afford some clue to the line of policy he proposes to adopt on the Amir's death. Of Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan's clia- racter, I have not had an opportunity of forming an opinion from my own observations, but report makes him the bravest of the Amir's sons, with a natural aptitude for a military life, and a character for liberality, coupled with an unfortunate turn for dissipation of all sorts; his talents for government, however, must be considerable, or he could never have brought Jiaikh into its present comparatively promising state. 18. Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan was the favorite son of the Amir, and died in 1848 leaving two sons Sirdars Fateli Mulianunad cj- i t? a i ai i i I'l i i n i Kl.an and Jalluludd.u Khan. Sn'dars Fateh Muhaumiad khan and Jallal- ud-din Khan, the former Governor of Khi- lat-i-Ghilzie ; and the latter of Zamindawar and Gharisk; these two children of the late Wazir are now about twenty-live and twenty years of age respectively, and are intelligent but noted as tyrannical rulers. Considerable coolness exists between them and their uncle Sirdar Gho- 1am Hydar Khan ; who on his brother's death, married his wives (according to Muhammadan usage) and appropriated all his property, nevei*, until driven to do so, rendering the sh'ghtest assistance towards promoting the interests of his nephews, who, on their part, lay claim to the cash left by their father, and said by them to amount to seven lakhs of rupees. 19. Sirdar Muhammad Ikrara Khan, who died some three years ago in Balkh, has left two sons. Sirdars Sirdars Slmlisawur Kiiaii and en „i , ,,„ r^i ,„ i oi i i iri ,, ShahbizKhun Shahsawur Allan and Shahbaz Khan; the former shows occasional symptoms of insani- ty, and the other is but little thought of in the country generally. [ 8 ] 20. Sinlar GlioLim Hydar Klian^ who was appointed heir-appar- ent on Wazir MuhaTmnad Akbar's death^ is ilie lieir-appaient. his full brother ; both being children of a daughter of Haji Eahmat-ullah (whose sister was one of the wives of the late Shah Sujah). The heir-apparent has no children of his own; although^ for an Affghan, very intelligent and judicious iii matters which are brought immediately before hira^ yet^ owing to the extreme unwieldiness of his figure, he has the grestest dislike to anything like bodily or mental exertion ; and consequently seldom troubles himself more than is absolutely necessary with the administration of his district, but confines his exertion to political finesse, for which he evidently fancies he has a turn ; the result is, that the management of his afiairs is left in the hands of his subordinates, whose chief aim, like that of all others in the same position in this country, is to make money for them- selves and to stop all channels through which complaints might possi- bly reach the ears of royalty. The heir-apparent is now upwards of thirty-five years of age, and spends the greater part of his tiiTie either in his Harem, or in Darbar where he sits for hours daily listening to the gossip of the place or in conversation with his chiefs, and gives occasional orders in matters which may then be brought before him. He is nervous, and wanting in personal courage, and has a strong taste for dissipation and vice ; and with a few choice companions frequently indulges in disgraceful midnight orgies, his figure alone preventing his outstripping all his brothers in these practices. With more cash than any other Sirdar in the country, he had not the , heart to turn it to account, and has a very bad name throughout the country for this very reason. He seems well inclined towards the British Government, and speaks in the highest terms of the manner in which he was treated while a prisoner in Hindustan, and regrets that he did not then avail himself of the opportunity afforded him of visiting England. 21. Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan is full brother to Sirdar „. T ,^ , , . . ,„ Muhammad Afzal Khan, and governs Khost. oirdar Muhammad AzimJxhan. ^ Turmut and Kuram ; he has five sons, the eldest of whom is Muhammad Sarwar Khan, a sickly lad of twelve or thirteen. Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan has a tall commanding figure, pleasant address ; and from his constant residence at Cabul is well versed in all the affairs of the country, and evidently has considerable weight in the yiniir's counsels ; so much so indeed that when the heir- [ 9 1 apparent arrived at Cabul and wished to get Sirdar Slier Ali Khan sent to Kandahar in his room, he wrote to Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan to come over and arrange matters for him. This chief is evidently well inclined towards us, and has shown his good will, both in words and deeds ; and the prominent position he took up in July last, when the Aifghans clamoured for a descent down the passes, alone marks his decided character ; he of course only pursued the policy which he con- sidered advantageous to his o>vn future career, but in doing so, there is little doubt that he also did good service to the British Government. Unfortunately, like all Barakzais, he has a natural love for dissipation and vices of the most degrading description. It would not be fair to judge of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan's administrative talents (in com- parison with his brothers) by the present state of Kuram and Khost, as the revenues of those districts do not nearly cover the expenses of the troops required to hold them ; but after all, he is the only Sirdar who regularly pays his men a monthly quota, for he does give his men two rupees regularhj, and then settles with them afterwards regarding the remaining three rupees, after the usual Atfghan fashion. 22. Sirdar Sher Ali Khan is full brother to the heir-apparent, | thoucjh a few years younger; he is said to Sher Ali Khan. , ° , , p ,r^ hav^e a great deal oi intelligence and apti- tude for business, but is freijuently an invalid from attacks of gout, to which all this branch of the Amir's family are subject. For some time past he has not been on very cordial terms with Sirdar Gholara Hydar Khan ; the quarrel originated at the time when Sirdar Fateli Muhammad Khan claimed his fatiier's projjerty from the heir-apparent, and being refused went to his uncle Sher Ali Khan, who at tirst received him coldly but eventually appointed him Governor of the Khilat-i-Ghilzie district, which is a dependancy of Ghazni ; thi^ at once secured the good-will of his two nephews, but at the same ^me crave mortal umbraofe to Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan, who has n|ver forgiven his brother ; and the feud lias lately been increased by Sher Ali Khan's attempting to out-bid the heir-apparent in the farming of the revenues of the Cabul and adjacent districts. He is a man of 1 violent temper and cruel disposition, and is well known to be but ill- pleased with the British alliance ; and, in passing through his district, \ we in several instances, saw signs of his ill-will towards us. Sirdar Sher All Khan has now three sons ; — the two first Sirdars Muhammad c J [ 10 ] Ali Khan and Ibrahim Khan, are the children of a Popalzai mother, while Muhammad Yakub Khan, the third, is a son of a daughter of Saadat Khan Muhammad. 23. Of the younger sons of the Amir^ I need not take much notice, as thev are at present of little poli- Younger sons of the Amir. • , i i ^■^ i tical value, and not nkely to come promi- nently forward ; I shall therefore merely enumerate their names, present employment, and the tribe of the mother of each, so that full brothers may be easily picked out. Wall Muhammad Khan. — Bangash mother. Governs Akcha, and is full brother to Muhammad Afzal and Azim Khans. Muhammad Amin Khan. — Popalzai mother. Rules in Kohistan, and is brother of the heir-apparent. He has two sons, Muhammad Ishmail and Zulfikar Khans. Muhammad Sharif Kli an. — Popalzai mother. Governs Mukar and Alikhel. Ahmad Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance in Cabul. Muhammad Asla^n Khan. — Persian mother, and Lord of Bamian. Muhammad Zaman Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance in Cabul. Muhammad Hasan Khan. — Persian mother. Commands four hundred men in Cabul. Muhammad Hussain Khan. — Persian mother. Has an allowance in Cabul. Faiz Muhammad Khan, — Bangash mother. Commands all the Artillery in Cabul. Muhammad Karim Khan. — Persian mother. Resides in Cabul. Faiz-uUah Khan. — Hazara mother. Also resides in Cabul. Muliamm,ad Yusaf. — Is a son of the sister of Muhammad Aziz Khan Ghilzi, and has an allowance. Muhammad Asman Khan. — Saddozai mother. Has an allowance in Cabul. There are besides these, two small children, sons of the daughter of Nazir Khair-ullah. 24. The power in the hands of each of these Princes will be best seen from the following distribution state- Distribution of Troops. . ,. ,1 * • J X •. 1 • 1 ment oi the Amir s troops, it being borne in mind that each Governor of a province has only under his command [ n ] his own particular regiments, and that these are never transferred to other stations, except in cases of extraordinary emergency, when by the upsetting of all the arrangements for their pay, clothing and accounts, this might be for a limited time effected, 25. At BalJih are three regiments of infantry, two of regular Cavalry, and sixteen guns, under Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan, who, since the death of his General, Slier ]\[uhammad Khan (Campbell), has placed his own eldest son in command. In Bamian and Hazara, one regiment of Infantry with two guns, under Sirdar Muhammad Aslam Khan. In the Koh'istan, one regiment of Infantry, two Field and two Mountain Train guns, under Sirdar Muhammad Amin Khan. lu Cahul, two regiments of Infantry, eighteen field-pieces, two heavy guns and a mortar. All the Artillery under Sirdar Faiz Mu- hammad Khan. In Ghazni, one regiment and four guns under Sirdar Shor Ali Khan. At Alccha, one regiment and two guns under Sirdar Wali Mu- hammad Khan. In Khxlat-i-Ghilzie, one regiment, three liglit and ono heavy guns, under Sirdar Fateh Muhammad Khan. In Kaiulahaf, three regiments of infantry, one of cavalry, not yet completed, two heavy guns, two mountain-train and twelve field- pieces under the heir-apparent. Over Fo.rah, Zdinbuhiwdr, and G/inrisk, is scattered a regiment of Infantry with four guns under Sirdar Jallal-ud-din Khan. 25^. The nominal strength of each of the above regiments is eight hundred bayonets, but seldom are Strength of the regular army. • i t i there more than six hundred present with the standard. The Cavalry Corps are supposed to be tliree hundred strong ; and the total Affghan regular force may thus be calculated at sixteen regiments of Infantry, three of Cavalry, wath an Artillery Park of one mortar, five heavy guns, seventy-six field-pieces, and six mountain-train s'uns. o 26. The Infantry of this army is as fine a body of men in point of physical power as is to be found in Asia, and seems, at first sight, capable of under- going immense fatigue ; but after seeing a good deal of these men, I c 2 [ 12 ] considerably doubt their powers of endurance ; they are principally recruited from the mountain districts ; and the best men are said to be Ghilzies, Wardaks and Kohistanies. The system of recruiting, how- ever, is the worst conceivable, for it is neither a conscription nor free enhstment, but the forcible seizure of the able-bodied men from each district, who are compelled to serve on pain of imprisonment and the utter ruin of their families. 27. The pay of a foot soldier is nominally five rupees a month, with two months in each year deducted for Pay. clothing and half mounting, but the distri- bution of the remainder even is very irregular, and a considerable por- tion of it is paid in grain, or what amounts to the same thing a certain amount of revenue is remitted to their families at home on this account ; and consequently the soldier often finds himself without the means of purchasing the common necessaries of life in his quarters, and is thus driven to recruit his finances by plunder and highway robbery, delin- quencies at which the ofiicers are obliged to wink, they themselves frequently sharing in the plunder. 28. Punishments too are very severe ; the men's pay for months together is frequently mulcted ; and soldiers Punishmeuts. . -, ^ ■ -, ^ t • n are stripped, laid with their faces on the ground, and beaten with sticks until they become insensible, or even die. In cases of desertion, their families are seized, and sold as slaves, and the individuals themselves when caught, either made to serve in chains or hung. For selling a Government musket, I have myself known a man hung ; and in short soldiers are so ill-treated, that fear alone prevents men from mutinying : a crime, the slightest symptoms of which are punished with instant death, without even the shadow of a trial. 29. The greatest precautions are taken at the Head Quarters of Corps to prevent desertion ; notwithstanding which one hundred and fifty or two hundred men invariably abscond yearly from each regiment stationed at a dis- tance from Cabul. 30. Most of these troops are armed with our old flint musket and bayonet, or an imitation of them made clofhmg'. '''°"^''"''"*' "^'^ at Cabul; but a few companies have two- grooved rifles constructed from models car- ried off by deserters from some of our frontier regiments. The [ 13 ] accoutrements are of the very worst description, generally picked up at auctions of condemned stores in our frontier stations, while a few are made up in Cabul ; they are seldom cleaned and never fitted to individual soldiers; the clothing too is all procured from the same markets ; and native officers of all grades, even in the same regiment, may be seen in every imaginable British habiliment, from a Navy coat to a Whipper-in^s hunting coat and General's full dress, or a Civilian's round beaver hat. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, the corps which we have seen, are very tolerably drilled, and appear rough but ready soldiers ; and the reason given for their being so fantastically dressed in preference to their own picturesque costume, is not that the government have not the money to expend on better clothing, but that the British uniform carries with it, in Afighanistau, a prestige which it is vain to look for under any other garb. The beards of the soldiers are also shaven in imitation of our custom, as well as to render the recognition of a deserter more certain. 31. These troops are never brigaded together, and the officers know little or nothing of their dutv ; they OfBcers. i /. can go through a few parade mana^uvres, but themselves confess that they cannot perceive any meaning or use in them beyond mere display. Blank ammunition is never served out ; and except when on actual service the men never fire a shot ; the con- sequence is that with the exception of those few shikaris (hunters) who have handled a jczail or matchlock from the time that they could speak, none of the men have the slightest idea of using their arms with coolness and precision, and there is scarcely a decent shot to be found among them. 32. It is usual for each iSirdar to have an officer in command of , , . , . all his troops, on whom devolves the no Generals, and tlieir duties. easy task of keeping the men contented on the least possible amount of pay. The meu's accounts are intricate in the extreme, even had they not to be systematically falsified : if the men mutiny, his life is at stake ; and his peculiar study appears to be to know the exact limit of human endurance ; for when it becomes no longer possible to stave off pay-day, by further excuses to the men, he is sure of being reprimanded in no measured terms by his master for want of tact, and he is not even then sure of getting the amount required, for every subterfuge is resorted to before anj-^ Affghan Sirdar [ 14 ] will pay up the over-due arrears of his soldiery. Should this officer, who usually receives the title of General, be an energetic, active soldier, who contrives to keep matters tolei-ably straight, he has the powers of life and death over the men, and after a few years it invariably happens that he becomes supreme, and so useful to his master that in the event of any accident befalling him, no man can be found to fill his place. Such a man was the late Sher Muhammad Khan (Campbell), who was once an ofiicer in the Company's (Campbell)^''^'^"'"'^'^ ^^'^"^ service, afterwards in that of the Sikhs ; he then came to Afighanistan with Shah Sujah-ul-mulk, and was conspicuous for his personal bravery ; but being severely wounded and taken prisoner in the battle lost by his master near Kandahar, he renounced his faith and became a Muham- madan, taking service with the Barakzais, for whom he laboured long and faithfully, but of late years he had given himself up entirely to drunkenness and debauchery ; he commanded Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan's troops in Balkli, where he died last winter of fever. 33. Of the ofiicers at present commanding contingents, per- haps Faramosh Khan, general of the heir-apparent's troops, is the most conspicuous ; his character may be thus briefly described : he is a native of Waigall, one of the di- General Faramosh Khan. . . ^ . visions of Kafiristan (for further particulars of which see Appendix F.) and is now about thirty-five years of age ; he was formerly a slave, the property of the late Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan, at whose death he was transferred to the late Sirdar Muhammad Ikram Khan, whom he accompanied to the Panjab, in the flying visit which the Aflfghans paid that district during the last Sikh campaign. He is now in all military difficulties, the factotum of the heir- apparent, and has perhaps, as much personal influence over him, as any of his followers. If this man had received a tolerable educa- tion, and his lot been cast in any other sphere, but among Affg-hans, he might have turned out a very superior character, he is clear-headed, intelligent, and possesses considerable energy, with an aptitude for picking up and retaining all sorts of information; he was instructed in the rudiments of the military art by Sher Muhammad Khan (Camp- bell), and has studied the subject sufficiently to be able to manoeuvre a regiment of infantry or cavalry tolerably ; and, being able to do so, is looked upon by Affghans as a perfect soldier. Of war he knows nothing. [ 15 ] and as he says himself is not Hkely to be called on to do so ; for when AfFghans engage in such pursuits, they rely moi-e on diplomacy and intrigue than on military strategy, and when driven to fight, every petty chief supposed to have a drop of royal blood in him, supersedes the general and has a voice in the matter ; — and as may be expected on these occasions, the result is that in a multitude of such counsellors, there is anything but wisdom. In petty affairs among the hill tribes, Faramosh Khan is said to have displayed personal courage, an attribute which is generally accorded to all his race. Affghans declare that, being a slave, he dare not commit a serious mistake, for to do so would cost him his head ; he receives one hundred rupees a month for his ex- penses, and has horses and arms supplied by his master. Althouo-h he may not have been so naturally, his disposition has become cruel, revengeful, and cunning in the extreme, and this seems to be the usual result of the conversion of any of the Kafir tribe to Muhammadanism, of which the following instance is another sample. 34. When the late Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan went up with a force to Kunur, he sent on Eustara Kustum Khan. Khan, a converted slave (now commanding Sirdar Jallal-ud-din Khan's regiment) with a company to occupy Chagar Serai, from whence Kustara Khan sent a message to his own relations and friends in Katar, whom he had not seen for many years, to inti- mate that he was at Chagar Serai, unable to get away, but longing to meet them all again ; on this some forty men and women, chiefiy his own near relatives, came down to see him ; he conducted them in the most tender manner inside the fort, where he had his company con- cealed and ready, who on a given signal fired a volley into the party, and closing, killed six Kafirs, taking the remainder prisoners to be made slaves for life. General Faramosh Khan related this diabolical story to me with evident exultation, and as an instance of the acumen of his race when under proper tuition. 35. From their system as well as the nature of Affghans gener- ally, great jealousies exist between the con- JS'Sir""'""" '"■ «°g«°t» °f different S.rdars, which fre- queutly break out into serious conflicts when these troops are by any accident brought together. The subdued feel- ings of the chiefs towards each other will invariably be found to pervade their followers down to the smallest drummer-boy in a regiment, who. [ 1^ ] though he does not hesitate to abuse his master soundly among his companions, would consider it a personal insult for the follower of a rival chief to do so. 36. Of the regular cavalry, I am not able to speak so confi- dently, having only seen the incomplete regiment belonging to Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan ; these are, in all respects, bad imitations of our Indian Light Cavalry, copying even their hussar saddles and steel scabbards ; their appointments like those of the infantry are of the very worst description ; the men are perpetually kept at foot drill, but only mounted during the cold season, as their horses are sent away to graze in summer; they are all mounted on either Turkoman or private- bred horses ; but from the want of knowledge of their duties in the officers, this arm is almost a useless body ; by their shadow of disci- pline, they have lost the individual confidence so requisite in irregular troops, and yet they have no one among them who can handle them so as to be useful as regular light cavalry. 37. From the Aflghan Artillery much cannot be expected, consi- derinar that the officers have no scientific Artillery. , ^ ^ ,. , knowledge and very little practice ; hereto- fore they did not even know the use of a tangent scale; the height of their ambition being to give a regular salute, and to know the compo- sition of a fuse, and how to fill it ; without being able to cut one the proper length for any required distance. They are clothed in our old cast ofi" artillery uniforms. The heir-apparent's troop is very well horsed, with rather small but very compact animals, well suited to the nature of the country in which they are expected to act. From the numerical strength of the Amir's ordnance, a very false idea might be formed of the actual state of his Artillery, for many of these guns are useless, while for others there is no ammunition ; and the equipment and carriages of the field guns generally are in the most inefficient condition. 38. An army organized as that of Affghanistan now is, could not for an hour oppose even a brigade of well General i-emarks on the army. ,,-,-,..,.1 i ,i handled disciplined troops ; but at the same time it has always proved itself infinitely superior to the gatherings of , wild tribes such as are to be met with in the Amir's dominions, and against whom alone they have hitherto been called on to act. I [ 17 ] 39. Besides his Regular army, tlie Amir has always available the Jezailchis, which were formerly the only Jezailchis. . „ . , "^ . infantry m the country ; they are tiralleurs or light troops, armed with matchlock or jezail, and accustomed to hill warfare ; and are perhaps as good skirmishers as are to be found in Asia, being good judges of ground and distance ; instinct teaches them almost to scent an ambush, and it is a current remark in the country that a good jezailchi on a hill side will conceal his body behind his own grass sandals. They are of two descriptions, those in Government pay on a nominal salary of five rupees per mensem (paid chiefly in grain) and armed by the State, and the jezailchis of the different chiefs who generally have a piece of rent-free land assigned them in lieu of pay. The Government jezailchis now muster some three thousand five hundred men, are chiefly employed in holding forts and thannahs all over the country, and are commanded by Sadbashia and Dahbashis, or captains of hundreds, and heads over tens, who receive a proportionate increase of pay and are divided as follows : With Sirdar Muhammad Afzal Khan in Balkh, 400. Sirdar Mu- hammad Azim Khan, 100. The heir-apparent, 1,000 (scattered over Kandahar, Gharisk and Farrah). Sirdar Sher Ali Khan, 300. Sirdar Muhammad Amin Khan, 200. Sirdar Muhammad Aslam Khan, 200. Sirdar Muhammad Sharif Khan, 100. The Amir's own, 200. Dis- tributed over different petty chiefs in bodies of thirty and forty, 1,000 Total 3,500. The other jezailchis are the immediate followers of their respec- tive chiefs, and may be considered as mere local militia, liable to be called upon to follow their lords whenever the Government require their services. Of the strength of the latter, it is difficult to form an estimate ; but if we take the truest criterion, the numbers which have on former emergencies been collected, I consider that from a thousand to fifteen hundred is the utmost that could be got together at one place, for we must remember that although it is natural for people to talk of combinations to oppose common enemies, and the risino* of a population en masse, yet an Affghan hates no one so sincerely as his nearest neighbour if he be more powerful than himself, and that his love of country or any other human tie will always give place to his self-interest or love of revenge ; so that a collection of the whole male population for any length of time, for a given object, is simply impos- D [ IS ] .sil)lfc% although a considemble mob might be got togethei' to make a simultaneous rush for the sake of plunder. 40. The Irregular Aflfghan Horse are even more diflBcult to com- pute than the jezailchis^ for it is notorious Irregular Cavalry. , , . , i , , , i ■ ti that they are never kept up to anything like the complement required from each chief, and this is the true reason for the practice of all great Sirdars sending out what is called a " Pesh Khima/' or advanced camp, some considerable time before they march, in order to give their feudal chiefs time to fill up their quotas of horse. Were this not the case, Kandahar and its dependencies should furnish eight thousand Jagirdari Horse ; Ghazni 5000 • Cabul, including Jellalabad, Logar and the Koh-i-daman, 15,000 ; while Balkh with its Uzbegs could give 10,000 more, making a total of 38,000. But if we consider the actual state of affairs I think that 20,000 may be calculated as an extreme esti- mate of this description of force in the country. These troops are equal to any undisciplined horsemen in Asia ; mounted on small but wiry horses, they are armed with every imaginable weapon, shield, spear, matchlock, sword, pistol and knife ; and no Affghan Sowar seems altogether com- fortable unless he is literally bristling with arms, one-half of which he could never have time or occasion to use ; they are, however, rough and ready soldiers, capable of undergoing great fatigue, terrible to a flying foe, good hands at feeling for an enemy or foraging, and when led by a determined chief, anything but a contemptible in a meloe. 41. The Affghans have no commissariat, and in fact pretend to none ; in districts where the revenue is paid Commissariat. . . . ... Ill gram a certain proportion is allotted to each fort, and parties receive orders (tankhds) on the headmen of villages when marching. In this way all troops on the line of march must be fed by the nearest villages, the latter getting credit for the amount of grain, &c. supplied, when the revenue comes to be collected. In disturbed districts, or foreign countries, Affghan troops always live on their enemies and pay for nothing. On any great occasion of public danger, when the whole available force may be collected en masse, each district has to furnish a certain amount of grain, as well as its contingent of militia, each soldier receiving a seer of flour daily from the common store ; so long as this lasts, the militia consider themselves bound to remain with their standards, but the day that this allowance ceases, the whole retire to their respective homes. [ 19 1 42. There is no ordnance commissariat in AfFghanistan, nor any- thing deserving the name of a magazine. Each Sirdar has a few hundred rounds of shot for his own guns, and a supply of lead for his small arm ammu- nition, manufacturing his own powder on the spot as required, and seldom having, at the most liberal calculation, more than twenty or thirty maunds in store, most of which will be found old and damaged. When, at any crisis, arms and ammunition are required, the Avorkmen from the nearest town are seized and forced to do the needful, receiving a seer of atta daily while so employed, and not unfrequently being obliged to furnish material. If workmen are not to be found, supplies are usually sent from Cabul. 43. In Affghanistan there are but two sorts of carriage iu general use, — either camels or yabus. Of the first, no great number could ever be procured, unless forcibly seized from the Povindiah and Nomade tribes ; there seem to be scarcely camels enough in the country to carry on the limited trade, and many of these have been imported from Belochistan. The most common beast of burden is the yabu, a powerful galloway, possessing great endurance, combined with considerable activity. It will thrive on almost any fare, and is often called upon to make long marches, carrying heavy loads, or with two men on its back ; and it is in this manner that the Aifghans and Turkomans contrive to make such treinendous marches in their '^chapaos" or forays. 44. The supply of good horses in Atfghanistan is not so great as is generally supposed, and is derived from three sources : — the private bred, or those from the royal studs ; the horses indigenous to the country ; and those imported from Turkistan, Hazara and Persia. The first are generally considered the most valuable, and are of the best Turkoman or Persian , , stock, crossed with the Arab. The Amir Arab cross. alone is said to have five hundred mares, located in the Hazara district of " Nur," where the grassy slopes of the " Gulkoh" mountains afford luxm-iant pasturage; the produce of these is annually distributed among his sons and chief Sirdars, while they, in turn, have proportionate breeding establishments. These studs have only been in operation a few years, but have produced such a superior style of horses that all the chiefs have hcon iuoculaLed with au D 2 [ 20 ] Arab mania^ and it is not difficult to foresee that in a very short time a valuable breed of horses will be procurable from this country j but AfFghanistan can never be calculated upon to supply India with any considerable number of horses^ as the demand in the country itself is always great^ and the trade attended with many risks, besides requiring a capital which few can command. In addition to these drawbacks, the demand in our army is generally for animals between three and five years of age, while the best horses here are sold off as yearlings, the breeders being anxious to recover their money as soon as possible. 45. The horse indigenous to Affghanistan is generally a heavy shouldered, thick legged, soft animal, from Affglian horses. fourteen to fifteen hands high, with no blood, and unfit for fast work, although they will get over incredible distances at their own particular pace, which is an ambling sort of shuffle a little more than four miles an hour ; but the worst feature in this breed is that it cannot stand anything like excessive heat, and when urged to extraordinary exertion I have known them tumble down dead, while other horses were not distressed ; they are considered by many people, however, as very good in draft, having a natural apti- tude for a steady pull from the shoulder. 46. The Turkoman horses exported to Peshawar are brought down via Balkli and Cabul from Andkho, Shahbaghan and towards Bokhara, and are characterised by a want of bone, and too heavy a carcass in proportion to their legs ; they are purchased at from two to ten tomans on the spot, and the profit on them at Peshawar is about thirty per cent, after paying all expenses. Eadakshan also supplies a few animals, but as the " khattaghani" breed is a very favorite one among Affghan Sirdars, and likely to be appropriated by them in transit, dealers are shy in bringing them down (although they are undoubtedly the best horses procurable on this line of country), but prefer taking inferior breeds at from eight to ten tomans, upon which they find they can make more profit. The Sindh market is again supplied with a superior breed, smaller in size but with more blood ; these come from Shahrukhs, Mai- munnah, Hazara, and Mashad, and it is at this latter place that the best breeds such as " Yamuts," Takhahs, " Chowdhur,^^ &c. are procured, as well as Persian horses; but the reasons already given also prevent dealers ou this line from speculating in the blood cattle. [. 21 ] The higher cost horses are sent do^vn from Mashad to Bushire and the coast where they are shipped for Bombay as Gulf Arabs. 47. While on the subject of the Aflfghan army, I might here enumerate and describe the forts and mili- Forts. - - . tary posts, scattered over the country, trom native information ; but never having visited many of them, and being aware that plans and descriptions of them, as well as of the defences of Kandahar, Cabul and Ghazni, are already in the office of the Quarter Master General, I shall merely remark that Kandahar is now exactly in the same state in which we left it; the same remark applies to Cabul; and the defences of Ghazni have been repaired (wherever we injured them) with *'puska" work, but are in such a state that it would offer but little opposition to a regular force. Khilat-i-Ghilzie has been enlarged and entirely rebuilt, and a rough sketch is here annexed in Appendix H. which, with the following description, may afford some idea of the present fort. 48. The present fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie stands on an isolated plateau, havinof a command to the south, of Fort of KIiilat-i-Gbilzie. ^ , , i ^ p , , several hundred feet above the surrounding country; the slopes from which form the glacis, and are in places exceedingly steep. The tracing is irregular, but affording generally a strong defensive outline. The ramparts have been scarped to a great height out of tlie face of the liill, and revetted with puska (kneaded sti'aw and mud built in layers and allowed to dry in the sun). A good substantial parapet surmounts this, and is carried all round the works, which now embrace the whole plateau. Towards the western face, a mass of conglomerate shooting up to the height of some eighty or one hundred feet, affords a natural cavalier, upon which a gun, en barbette, ranges over all the works ; under this mound, on a level with the terreplein of the fort, is the old magazine, which was screened on the exposed side by a substantial wall of puska ; but a new one has now been built in a far worse position, immediately to the south of the cavalier ; and from the mound, two copious springs flow, affording an abundant supply of dehcious water for any garrison. There are two gateways of the usual native construction, with the road-way turning at right angles shortly after entering the place ; the main one is to the south, the approach to it steep and well flanked by the tracing of the works on the left. The other gateway is ^ ^v [ 21 ] Tlie higher cost horses are sent down from Mashad to Bushire and the coast where they are shipped for Bombay as Gulf Arabs. 47. While on the subject of the Affghan army, I might here enumerate and describe the forts and mih- Forts. tary posts, scattered over the country, from native information ; but never having visited many of them, and being aware that plans and descriptions of them, as well as of the defences of Kandahar, Cabul and Ghazni, are already in the office of the Quarter Master General, I shall merely remark that Kandahar is now exactly in the same state in which we left it; the same remark applies to Cabul; and the defences of Ghazni have been repaired (wherever we injui'ed them) with "puska" work, but are in such a state that it would offer but little opposition to a regular force. Khilat-i-Ghilzie has been enlarged and entirely rebuilt, and a rough sketch is here annexed in Appendix H. which, with the following description, may afford some idea of the present fort. 48. The present fort of Khilat-i-Ghilzie stands on an isolated _ „ ^ plateau, haWng a command to the south, of Fort of Khilat-i-Gbilzie. l ^ o > several hundred feet above the surrounding country; the slopes from which form the glacis, and are in places exceedingly steep. The tracing is irregular, but affording generally a strong defensive outline. The ramparts have been scarped to a great height out of the face of the hill, and revetted with puska (kneaded straw and mud built in layers and allowed to dry in the sun). A good substantial parapet surmounts this, and is carried all round the works, which now embrace the whole plateau. Towards the western face, a mass of conglomerate shooting up to the height of some eighty or one hundred feet, affords a natural cavalier, upon which a gun, en barbette, ranges over all the works ; under this mound, on a level with the terreplein of the fort, is the old magazine, which was screened on the exposed side by a substantial wall of puska ; but a new one has now been built in a far worse position, immediately to the south of the cavalier ; and from the mound, two copious springs flow, affording an abundant supply of dehcious water for any garrison. There are two gateways of the usual native construction, with the road-way turning at right angles shortly after entering the place ; the main one is to the south, the approach to it steep and well flanked by the tracing of the works on the left. The other gateway is [ 22 ] immediately opposite to this to the north ; its construction is similar, but it has no flanking defences. The approach to it is comparatively easy^ and large masses of conglomerate lying scattered in the immediate vicinity, would afford cover from which to keep down any fire which might be opened on a party approaching the gate. Within the fort and between the two gates is the bazar, containing at present some thirty Baniah's shops. The quarters of the garrison are ranged round the ramparts, and there are two extensive granaries, besides a comfortable residence for the Governor. Outside the woi-ks, all round this forti*ess, six or eight feet from the bottom of the wall, the hill has been scarped perpendicular for a height of about eight feet ; it is probable, however, that rain will before long smooth this down to a more natural slope. The evident weak points of the place are. — First, the long necked eastern bastion, which has no flanking support of any description and could itself develop but a feeble fire ; immediately in front of it on the opposite side of a deep ravine, and distant six hundred yards, are two mounds affording excellent positions for breaching this bastion ; while undulations in the slope of the hill give good cover for the approach of light troops to within easy range. — Second, a general want of flanking defences along the whole of the northern face ; and lastly, the large masses of conglomerate already referred to, which are scattered about the base of the works along the whole of the western face, where a detached round tower and postern have lately been made. Such is the present state of this fortress, which without going back to the days of Sultan Baber, who stormed and carried it after great loss, has obtained a world-wide reputation from the gallant defence conducted by Captain Craigie (now Lt.-Col. Craigie, C. B.) who in command of a small garrison of young sepoys, held this position then only covered by old dilapidated works, temporarily patched with sand bags, against the combined Toran Ghilzies ; and finally when assaulted, hurled them back at the point, of the bayonet, and obliged them to retire leaving one hundred and forty bodies stretched on the glacis, w^ithout a single casualty in its truly illustrious garrison ! 49. Having thus given a slight sketch of the character of the Characters of the feudal Amir's SOUS, and of the forc^ at their "obility. disposal, it is hardly necessary ibr me to enter at any great length into the details of the petty factions compos- [ 23 ] ing the mass of the feudal nobility of Affghanistan, especially as it is composed of names with which Government must be already well acquainted, and characters which may be individually and collectively described as men, whose actions cannot be calculated upon, but who are ready to grasp at any chance of bettering their own condition ; obedient through fear alone ; treacherous by nature ; and pohtical schemers from their birth. 50. At the head of this list may be placed the brothers of the i^irdars Pir Muhammad ^^"' ' *^^ surWving children of Poyendah Khan.Sultan Muhammad Khan Khan: — namely, SirdarsPir Muhammad and Eahmdil Xhan. t t-. , t Khan,bultan Muhammad Khan and Rahmdil Khan. The two first are both older than the Amir. Pir ]\Iuham- mad Khan has always been a money-making screw ; and yet blindly led into any scheme by Sirdar Sultan Muhammad Khan, who has an innate love for low intrisfue and falsehood ; without the couragfe to carry out his own ideas, he is for ever leading other people into mischief, and disowning his own counsels; and with whatever party he allies himself, he is sure sooner or later to deceive them ; in short I cannot better describe the man than as "monstrum nulla virtute redein})tum." Old age is now creeping fast upon him, and he confines himself much to his harem, where he has contrived to immure upwards of a hundred wives. 51. Sirdar Eahmdil Khan whom I have already mentioned as liaving gone, with the Amir's consent, to Teheran, is said to bo afflicted with a loathsome skin disease, which renders his life a torment, and would prevent his taking any active part in the govern- ment ; he has a large family of his own, and there are some thirty nephews, children of the other Kandahari brotliers, all of whom may be supposed still to retain some little influence in western Affghanis- tan. Among these. Sirdar Muhammad Siidik Khan, who died in Cabul the other day, stood out prominently as a villain of the blackest dye, as shown in his conduct towards General Ferrier. 52. Sirdar Slier Ali Khan, son of the late Mihrdil Khan, is said to be intellii'ent and active, and is now the Sirdar Sher Ali Khau. . . .*= ^ c- t c ^ prime minister of Sirdar Sultan Jan in Herat. The whole of the Kandahar family have long shown a strong inclination to be on friendly terms with their Persian neighbours ; and on the Amir's death^ no doubt many of them will bo found intriguing with that power. [ 24 ] 53. Of the remaining families of the Amir's brothers, perhaps r,. , o, ,11- -r-, Sirdar Shamsh-ud-din Khan and his brothers bu-clar Shanish-ud-din Khan. (sons of the late Muhammad Amm Khan) are the best known ; they are kept at Cabul on allowances in cash, and as may easily be fancied are anything but contented with their lot. Sirdar Shamsh-ud-din Khan gained a character for enterprise among our officers far above his desert ; and Affghans say that bis brother (since dead,) was the master-spirit during the war with us ; this family may be safely put down as ready for any change. 54. Next in importance come Shahdowlah Khan and his brothers, „, , , , , ^, sons of the late Sirdar Muhammad Zaman ohahaowlah Ivhan. Khan ; this branch of the Barakzaie family have been in difficulties ever since the murder of Shah Sujah-ul-mulk by the late Sujah-ud-dowlah; and Shahdowlah Khan, now a refugee with the Persians, may be considered in perpetual exile from his own country ; he was put in charge of Shahrukhs while the Persians occupied that district, but was obliged to quit on the latter being overthrown by the Turkomans. 55. Sirdars Abdul Ghyas Khan and Abdul Ghanuni Khan (sons of ^. , ., , , ^, the late Nawab Zabar Khan) are perhaps Sirdar Abaia Ghyas L.han, . . . in greater favor with the Amir than any other of his nephews ; the first named is a great favorite and follower of the heir-apparent, and is said to be intelligent and active. 56. Sirdar Muhammad Asman Khan and his brother (children of Sirdar Muhammad Asman ^^^ ^^^^ Nawab Sammand Khan) are always •^^^^°- to be found about the Amir^s Court, and seldom leave Cabul ; they receive liberal cash allowances and appear contented. The brother's names are Gholam Kadir Khan, Muhammad Ghous Khan and Gholam Sadik Khan ; he himself has three sons, all by separate mothers, namely : Muhammad Sarwar Khan, Muhammad Hussein Khan and Gholam Muayyid-ud-din Khan. 57. It is now almost in vain to look for families and men of influence in Affghanistan apart from the Amir's immediate relatives, for they have been gradually but almost entirely swept away by the Amir's policy. The principal difficulties in the path of all rulers of this country appear to have ever been the smallness of the revenue which can be collected in comparison with the number of chiefs wIjo have to keep up their state and live upon that revenue ; and the [ 25 ] Barakzais unblushiiigly affirm that as the country cannot support both rich and poor, the latter must be sacrificed to uphold the former. 58. xinother great obstacle to good government has always been the power and influence possessed by each feudal chief, whose authority in many instances equalled that of royalty itself; and as formerly the army of Affghanistan was entirely composed of the Ulus or clansmen of these chiefs, who were supposed to hold their lands in jagir on conditions of service, but who were most frequently found to go over to the enemy in the day of need, a counterpoise became indispensable ; and the Amir commenced to put together liis regular army. The gradual reduction of the power of the feudal lords, and the transfer of it as far as possible into the hands of his own sons and relatives, have therefore been the prominent features of the Aniii-'s policy, and in no case has this been more marked than in that of the once powerful Ghilzies (see Appendix B.). 59. The sons of the infamous and once powerful Amin-ullah Khan, Hafiz-ullah, Nasar-ullah and Eahm-ullah Amin-ullah Khaa and sons. Khans are now but petty agents to the sons of the Amir in Losfar ; that chief himself was smothered in a bathinJ/'' Gtrria^ nhanU 7,726} Tht pv«UuJnB m' t'abui and Ghtamt, in- tin^rm^ tlutiJt. aJid «/tfu pf-ru^n ef^f^^bOtat ik from Ihe Surviyvr Gavroli ^ap uf Aff^MfaMan, ( SuH^ t JtHtf ic J huhi an3. du. CivUrj btbnan, i/bnrvaiumtimavniudf/' the Ketiroutv ShdcK mode in. aS6 Ij- liod'^ tiamtU Stn^ 2s^wutf» AiJ , 7'fci A'tatral Tutl s}tattina tTuwt A* i MurYV^LJ^JiVM''^' ;^u Dfiwn or. r^tcne by KomoTio'ii [lass, iui "LiOi APPENDIX A. The Pinur Route from Kohat to Cahul and Ghazui. The distances as far as the Kurram fort, measured with a perambulator, hij Lieut. Oarnett, Engineers, November , 1857. The remainder are aj)proxiniate. First staffs fron Kohat to NasratTcliel, six miles. — No permanent road yet completed ; the old road is over an undulating cultivated country ; crossing the drainage which runs into the Tori or Bara, to the left of the road ; many watercourses in which would impede the march of artillery unless previously bridged or ramped : temporary bridges had been ei-ected for the passage of the guns with the last Miranzai expedition, but this road of communication will never be complete until permanent bridges are constructed. The road passes the village of Muhammadzai at half way to Nasratkhel and at the entrance of the pass to the Bezoti hills called " Ublan." The valley averages from \\ to 2 miles breadth ; the hills to the nortli are in the possession of tlie Bezoti and Ftrozkhel tribes of Arakzaies, and are barren, precipitous, and rising up to a height of some 1500 feet above the level of the plain, but in no place commanding the road. Second stage. To Baiis, eleven miles. — For the first 3 miles the road is similar to yesterday's march ; it then enters an Total distance from Kohat to i. • <• • in i. i Kail's 17 mil ■ extensive grove of sissu and mulberry trees known as Fateh Shah's Ziarat, and crosses a stream that comes down from Marai, a village of " Tappa" Samilzai, which pa3's revenue to Government, this is one of the roads into the Samilzai valley, which is divided from the llangu valley by a range of hills; another road into which strikes off near the village of Ustarzi lower; the liills surrounding the Samilzai valley (which is a complete amphitheatre) are held by the Sipah tribe nearest Kohat, and the Bar Muhammad Khel and Shekhan Arakzaies. The road passes through the lands of the villages of upper and lower Ustarzi which are the most powerl'ul in the district, being able to turn out some 700 armed men ; and at 9 miles from Kohat, the hills, closing in, leave only a gap for the exit of the Bara ; this place which is on the boundary between the Kohat and Hangu valley, is known as the Khojah Kiddar : over it on the left bank of the stream the new road has been constructed. Although a work of great difficulty it has been ably completed by the engineer officer in charge of tlie same. At lOg miles from Kohat, crossed the Bara stream which has a general course of from East to West, having its sources among the lofty mountains G 2 [ 44 ] inhabited by the Arakzaies, and enters our territories near the vilhige of Shahukhel about 6 miles from Raiis, at which place you arrive immediately after fording this stream. The Bara is very subject to sudden rises caused by heavy falls of rain in the hills above, which render it at times impassable. The village of Eaiis can turn out some 200 men and is surrounded by a low wall ; there is no good position for an encampment in the portion of the valley in which the village stands, owing to its small extent and to its being com- manded from all sides either by the higher hills or by spurs from them. The hills are covered with a dense jungle of Pelu (wild) and Phulah which renders them very difficult for military operations, and even the comparatively level grounds are but partially cultivated and covered with thick bushes. The Tori stream, which comes down from the direction of Thagu, joins the Bara at Raiis. Third stage. To Ilangu, eight miles. — Road good all the way. At about 2 miles from our last encampment (which was Total distance from Kobat to ^^^^^ ^ ^^-^^ ^^ ^j,^ rpj^ ^j^^ ^f ^^^^. j^ Haugu 25 miles. ° ' ^ the village of Ibrahimzai on the opposite bank of the Tori ; this is the general encamping ground, but owing to the land being covered with wheat, the force yesterday halted half way between Rails and this : the new line of road to which does not cross the stream, but passes over a small Kothal close to our last camp, and then traverses a succession of nan-ow valleys within matchlock range of the heights on either side, which are very precipitous and difficult to be turned. At the 6th mile passed a more open val- ley known as the Hangu-kas which is intersected by a ravine which collects all the water from the Hangu springs. The camp was this day pitched on an open cultivated plain in the centre of the valley (which is here about 2 or 3 miles broad and contrasts wonderfully with the country passed through since leaving Kohat,) and at about a mile on the Kohat side of the village. The village of Hangu is situated in the plain ; it contains about 500 houses, but is a place of no strength ; the hills in its vicinity are high but not so rugged as those hitherto met with, and covered with jungle. N. B. There is a direct road running from Koliat to Ibrahimzai in a valley parallel to the Thagu one, it passes through the villages of Bar and Jalia ; it is a shorter route, but the line of the present new Hangu road was prefen-ed as it passes near some of the largest villages in the Kohat district. Fourth stage. To Tori, eight oniles. — The road during the whole course of this day's march ascends the Hangu valley, and Total distance from Eohat ^.^^^ ^^ ^^^^ j^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^^^.. ^^ to Ton 33 mues. ° distance of from a half to one mile from it. On the right of the road are low stony hills covered with brushwood, between which are occasional patches of cultivation drained by numerous nullahs, which cross [ 45 ] the road in several places, (and at a distance from and between the low pro- longations of high spurs.) Towards the north, near the summit, and on the slopes of the Samana range of hills (averaging 2,500 feet elevation above the plain and about 6,000 feet above the sea) are seen the towers and villages of the Kabhiakhel and Akhel Arakzaies, who, in that direction, border on the Bangashes of Miranzai. Although no road has been made beyond Thagu, yet the beaten way over this tract was found very easy for wheeled carriages. Passed the villages of Baggattu Kotarzai and Bar. As you approach Thagu the valley opens out to a breadth of about three miles. Good encamping ground was found at about a mile on the Thagu side of the valley (which was about the only portion not under cultivation large enough for this pur- pose) and in the vicinity of the Tori from whence water was procured. From Thagu, a long and very narrow glen runs up from the south of the villao-e via Ueh Umar Khan Shaletem Khel and Mammu Khel to Daud Shah ka Bandah, where it meets the main road from Kohat to Bannu. Fifth stage. To Kaii, eight miles. — The road similar to that in yesterday's march, crossing at about five miles tlie Tori, now Total distance from Kohat to i ^^ ^^^ c ^ • ■, Kaii 41 miles. merely a small nil of water, in many places en- tirely disappearing, and during the hottest season of the year, water here must be dug for. The village of Kail is situated on a naturally strong position at the end of a low ridge of stony hills, with pieces of rock cropping out in several places ; it is surrounded by a wall of about eight feet high, the greater portion of the village being ni a hollow, with portions running up in every direction to the top of the ridge, on which are placed two towers ; and towards the north there is a knoll with a house and enclosure which commands the whole of the interior ; on the last runs the bed of a nullah, beyond which is a small garhi now in ruins, from near to which the whole of the interior is exposed to view. The village is elevated above the general plain about 300 feet. The descent from it towards the south is by several horizontal ridges on which about 20 tanks have been con- structed to keep up a sufficient supply of water for the inhabitants and their cattle as well as to afford a supply for the irrigation of a few fields, but only during the cold season ; in the hot weather water is very scarce. To the west, the descent is rather steep, and the ridge of hills on which the village is constructed, runs off in a north westerly direction. The camp was pitched at a spot near a very small spring called Dupa, the water from which runs down into Upper Miranzai, as the lands of Kaii are on the water-shed line between the Kumni river and the Kohat Bara. The liills above Thagu and the Khattak hills generally in this part of the valley are more accessible,* and * Sic in oriji. [ 4.6 ] covered with low jungle. The lands between Kali and the hills bordering the valley on the South were entirely under cultivation, displaying one sheet about three or four miles long from east to west by about two or three miles broad. On this day's march, after leaving the lands of Thagu, we passed a large village called Muhammad Khoja to the left of the road and situated immediately under the hills. Sixth stage. To Nariol, six milfs. N. B. a force going to Kurram icould leave Nariol to the right and march on to Dar- Total distance from Kobat to 7 t r. -7 /> t" • ' Ti. • l. Nariol 47 miles. sammand 12 miles from Kaii. — It is not more than 4 miles by the direct route from Kaii to Nariol, but a force marching with artillery has to make a considerable detour to avoid the low stony hills which run down from the right of the valley ; the march is an easy one ; for the first mile from camp, we had to go round the base of a solitary low hill that shoots up in the centre of the valley to the east of Kaii, and commands the roads on each side of it, after crossing the ravine which has its rise at the Dupa spring mentioned in the last march. The re- mainder of the road to Nariol is skirted by low stony hills, covered with jungle, on the right, having the open and cultivated Miranzai valley to the left. Im- mediately before arriving at the village we crossed over the Nariol nuddi, in which a small stream, having its rise in the adjacent hills, continually flows. Seventh stage. To Darsammand, nine miles. — The baggage went by the direct route over the plain to Darsammand, but EG^miles^''^''''' *' Darsammand, ^.j^^ ^^.^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ y^^ ^j^^ ^.jj^^^^ ^f Torawari, inhabited by Grymukht Affghans, tributary to the British Government. There are three considerable nallahs to cross between Nariol and Torawari ; and the country, excepting in the immediate vicinity of these places is generally covered with jungle. The road from Torawari to Darsammand is commanded for about half a mile by a projecting spur from the Sanghar mountain ; it is also crossed by the Sarrobai nallah. The best encamping ground at Darsammand is to be found near the ruins of the village of Gandiaur, about a mile to the south of Darsammand, on the banks of the Schalli nallah. Darsammand stands at the foot of a low spur from the higher ridges running down from the Sanghar mountain, which are very steep and diflicult of access. It is the strongest village in the whole of Miranzai, consisting of three separate stone wall enclosures about 12 feet high flanked by burjes, and connected between two of these is the bazar containing some 30 or 40 shops, in a street, the ends of which are closed by gateways. The village itself is commanded by low spurs in its rear, within matchlock range. It is supplied with water from numerous springs in its vicinity, from which flow streams not only suflicient for the use of the inhabitants, but also [ 47 ] for the irrigation of their fields. There are several very fine clumps of chinar and walnut trees between the village and the foot of the hills. Eighth stage. To Thall, ten miles. — At about one mile from Darsam- mand, opposite to the ruins of Gandiaur, a road ^ Total distance to ThaU, 66 branches off to the. Khattak village of Dillan, over whicli guns could be taken with their horses with- out any very great difficulty. The Thall ro^d for the first three miles skirts the low cultivated lands of Gandiaur and Mammu, and then crosses the Schalli, the country to the right being high, undulating, and covered with dense jungle. There is a knoll which commands the road and the surrounding country here, on the left bank of the stream. The hills to the left are also covered with jungle, and if occupied by matchlock men would have to be crowned before a force could pass unmolested along the bed of the stream, where the road runs for about half a mile before ascending the right bank, which is rather steep. There is then a further regular ascent to the summit of the plateau between the Sangroba and Schalli nullahs. The gun road turns off at right angles to the northward, about half a mile from the first rise, and proceeds along the Admeylah road until the auuunit of the plateau is attained, when it again returns to the direct Thall road. The descent into the Sangroba nallali at a little more than a mile from Thall is easy. It is hard to get a space of ground, excepting cultivation, large enough for a camp of any size, except in positions commanded by adjacent heights, or in others liable to be fiooded by the waters of the river Kurram. Our camp was pitched on an open space at a distance of about half a mile from Thall, down the river bed on the right bank of the Schalli (the heights to the front and rear being held by picquets,) and immediately above the junction of the Schalli with the Kurram. The village of Thall is situated at the junction of the Sangroba nallah with the Kurram, and being on the immediate high bank of the former, which is being gradually washed away, it is probable that the people will have to remove from their present position, which is now surrounded by a good stone wall from 12 to 15 feet high, with two good gateways. There is a portion of the village separated at a distance of about GO yards from the main village. The river Kurram rises in the Safed Koh range, and after irrigating the valley of the same name, enters the Bangash territories at a place called Akshaur, about 10 miles above Thall, and from this point to the Bannu valley forms the British boundary. At a distance of about 4 miles from Thall on the opposite side of the Kurram and down the river, stands the village of Billand Khel which is surroimded by a good loopholed wall flanked by 13 towers. Some of these are more imposing than useful, for though lofty, they are not of a suffi- cient size to contain above one or two men. This village is in the open plain, [ ^8 ] and lias no natural defences. At a distance of about 1200 yards is a good stone garlii with a tower. It is known as Rasul Khan's garhi. In Billand Khel is to be found a mixture of men of all tribes, mustering about 800 or 1000 fighting men, who are on good terms with their Waziri neighbours. The camp returned to Darsammand by the bed of the Schalli stream, along which, there is a very fair road for guns. The steep heights to the right being about 3 or 400 feet above the bed of the stream, appearing from below to be a range of hills, are in reality but the sudden breaking of a long elevated grassy steppe which runs for a distance of about 10 miles parallel to the river and has a breadth of about 4 or 5 miles from east to west ; this is known by the name of " Chapperi" and over it the Waziris graze their flocks during the cold season. Ninth stage. To SiriJcTirour or Ghilzai Bandali ten miles; or for Guns, ten and a half miles. — Supposing a force to have encamped either on the ground m , , T t f -ir 1 <. (. 0" the immediate rijrht bank of the Schalli or on Total distance Irom Xohat to o Siriklirour, 7G miles ; or for the left of the Sangroba nallah or the cultivated ' * * lands immediately opposite the village of Thall, the road passes the Sangroba nallah and round the village of Thall ; traverses an elevated plateau and crossing several nallahs, the natural drainage from the spurs coming down from the Khadi Mukh peak, at about 2 miles from Thall it crosses the Kurram river, the passage of which is here commanded within easy matchlock range by a strong position above it, on the left bank, where are the ruins of a village constructed by the Yusaf Khel Bangashes, when they separ- ated, in consequence of a feud, from the remainder of the tribe. The stream at this season of the year (November) is very low, but still about 2 feet deep and running with tolerable veloeit}- ; for about a month in spring when the snow at the sources of the stream is melting, the passage across, as well as the road along it, may be at times impracticable for a few days. At 4 miles, after having proceeded up the right bank or along the bed of the stream, you ascend the bank where there is but the foundation remaining of a nice, consi- derable garhi known as Raja ka Killa. All this part of the road is very fine, but the ascents of some of the cross nallahs are apt to be damaged and rendered precipitous during floods, and should be looked to before marching up the river with guns. At about 6 miles from Thall, upon arriving at the Shabbakh nallah, the road for guns descends again into the bed of the stream and follows it to the end of the march ; bub for the infantry, cavalry and baggage there is a dry road, passing over a low ridge of hills which is shorter than the river route by about half a mile, and which, if necessarj', could very easily be made practicable for guns, the slopes being easy and soil composed of slate rock ; but in its present condition, it is totally impracticable for guns. [ 49 ] The encamping ground at the end of this day's march is on a sloping bank, (with ample room for any number of men,) on the right bank of tbe Kurram, but commanded on all sides by low hills ; grass, forage for camels, &c. abun- dant, but no provisions procurable, as the only place in the shape of a village near, is Ghilzai Bandali, wliere there are a few houses. This hamlet derives its name from one Grhilzai, a Khattak, who was obliged to fly from Dillan on account of the atrocious murders he bad committed there, and on this neutral ground he formed the nucleus of a village which is gradually increasing. Tenth stage. To ILazir Firs Ziarat : hy right hankfijteen miles, hi/ left bank fourteen and a half miles. — There is no gun-road Total distance from Koliat to i .1 • 1 i 1 i r xi • j ^i Hazir Pir's Ziarat, 91i mile.. ^^'^"S ^^'^ ^'S^^ ^^"'^ ^^ ^^'^ ^^^<^''' »°^ ^^'^ ^'""S have to go up tlie bed of tlie stream for about 2 miles and then get up on the left bank. Both roads are practicable for in- fantry or horsemen, but that on the left bank is the best : the only disadvantage is that if the river happens to rise, it will be dilHcult or even impossible to cross. For the first 4 n»ilcs on the left bank the road is commanded by low hills on the right, and then for the remainder of the distance runs along the foot of the " Karewali" or elevated plateau which marks the boundary of the irrigation on each side of the river ; and it is on the edge of this that most of the villages are situated. If proceeding by the left bank, the river has to be crossed again just opposite llazir Pir's Ziarat. The route by the right bank is commanded within matchlock range, more or less along the whole road, from spurs coming down from the range of hills which separates Kurram from Khost : it crosses the drainage of this tract. For the last 10 miles both roads traverse Ballyamin one of the divisions of Kurram ; the country is cul- tivated for a distance of about from i to 2 miles on each side of the river, and dotted over with numerous small square walled villages or garhis generally called after the name of the head men in each for the time being ; there are about 20 of these in Ballyamin. Provisions of most sorts are procurable in the district, for a small force, for a limited period. Encamping ground at Hazir Pir's Ziarat stony ; camel-grazing in abundance, as well as grass ; water from the Kurram. From Hazir Pir's Ziarat there are two routes to Muhammad Azim's Fort in Kurram, the one by the Darwaza pass, and the other along the bed of the river. The Darwaza route is as follows. Eleventh stage. To South end of Darwaza pass, ten and a half miles. — This „, ^ , ,. , , „ , distance is the one measured bv the route follow- lotal distance from L-oliat to , South end Darwaza pass, 103 ed by Brigadier Chamberlain's force; but if in- stead of turning up the ravine that comes down from the west we had gone up the one that joins it from the north, we should, as wc afterwards learned, have gone by the " Sangalli rah" which is shorter, H [ 50 1 Both routes are practicable and offer no difficulties to guns. The country traversed is an undulating desert, covered with stones, grass, and thin jungle ; the halting-place is where water is procured from a stream that comes out of the Darwaza darra, but very soon loses itself in the soil. Camel-grazing only procurable in the pass itself; grass is abundant. This part of the country is held by wandering Jagi tribes who are not over nice in discriminating be- tween their own and other people's property, and not given to stick at trifles in the manner in which they possess themselves of what they covet. Twelfth stacje. To Kot Mean-ji, ttoelve and a quarter miles. — This is a name given to a spot where we encamped 2 miles south Total distance from Kobat to ^ ^^ ^g^^ ^^^ f. .^ ^j^^ ^.j ^^^. ^^^^^ ^ ^j^^ Kot Meaii-ji, 114| miles. => river, "We encamjied here, as no fire-wood was procurable on the other side of the river, without having to go a very long dis- tance for it, and also because all the forage for horses had to be procured from the Darwaza pass, where was also the best grazing-ground for camels. The road for the first half ascends gradually along the bank of a small rivulet. It is commanded by low hills on each side running parallel to it, but which can easily be crowned. The present state of the road, owing to large stones and narrow shelving banks on the edge of the river, is very bad for guns (3 axles of gun-carriages were broken while going through the pass) but in two or three days, it might, with the greatest ease, be put into very good order ; the latter half towards Mean-ji is easy, with a gradual descent. B// the Biver lioiite from Hazir Firs Ziarat. Eleventh stage. To Ihrahimzai, eleven and a quarter miles. — For the first 9 miles of this march, the road is along the bed Total distance from Kohat to c , i • i • i i t i i ^ Tu 1 • mo-! -1 <^i the river, which lias to be crossed and re- Ibrahimzai, 102j miles, ' crossed ; the whole of this distance as far as the large village of Suddah is through the Makhizai sub-division of Kurram, and sprinkled with numerous walled enclosures, called after the malik or headman at the time holding each ; at 6 miles is Durani, a village of about 200 houses and the residence of the Deputy Governor of the Province ; from this, there is a direct road through the Zymukht country to Toravari and Nariol in Miranzaie, Makhizai consists of about 20 garhis on a strip of irrigated land half a mile wide, bounded by a low ridge of hills on the right bank of the Kurram river, with about a mile of the same description of land belonging to 5 villages on the left bank, the latter bounded by the Karewah running back to the Zymukht mountains, and down which the drainage of that coun- try runs. At Suddah the Kurram river is joined by a tributary known as the Kurramana, which flows down from the Arakzai mountain. While the guns [ ol ] proceed along the bed of the river, there is a short cut through an opening in tlie hills, wliich saves about a mile, for the infantry and cavahy ; the last two miles of this route is open to marauding attacks from the Musazaies a tribe who infest this road and occupy the adjacent hills. Ibrahinizai is a large village but its lands are entirely cultivated for rice, and consequently it may be difficult to find encamping ground on either bank. On the right bank there is good grazing for camels and forage for cavalry. Twelfth stage. To Kot Mean-ji, twelve and a quarter miles. — The gun and cavalry road is along the bed of the river ; Ko^Mean-tlS ^S.^""^''* ^'^ mi^x^Uy may either go by this or along tlie high bank through the villages. Upon either bank the hills generally run down to the water-edge ; on the right bank there are only one or two villages with here and there small patches of rice cultiva- tion. On the left bank the cultivation below the Karewah varies in breadth from one to two miles, and is covered with large villages studded along the edge of the Karewah; the largest of these are Tapakkie, Topil Sinalli, Andkot and Agra, all in Kurram proper. The Fort of Kurrani, an account of which will be found in Appendix B. is about 2 miles from tliis encamping ground, which would make its total distance from Kohat about US miles. Thirteenth stage. To llahih killa, seventeen and half miles. — All the way from the Kurram fort, the road crosses the un- Total distance from Kobat to i.- a i i i i i • v ft Habib killa, 132 mUes. cultivated barren slope and drainage from the Safed koli ; it passes three villages close to each other called Kutch Kani, and at a distance of 4 miles from Shallozan, one of the largest villages in the district, which embedded in trees can only be distinguish- ed by the conspicuous shrine of Mir Ibrahim, perched upon a spur immediate- ly above the village. Habib killa is a square enclosure detached about f of a mile from the large village of Painar, of which it is an off-shoot, and is sur- rounded by the richest cultivation, on which great care has been bestowed ; the land is terraced and irrigated by a stream rushing down from the over- hanging Safed koh. Forage for camels is plentiful, all the adjacent low hills being covered with low oak jungle ; but grass for cavalry is scarce, the people of the country feeding their horses on bhusa. More provisions can be procured here, than perhaps any other spot in all Kurram, as Paiwar contains an immense number of Hindus (in fact as many as there are Muhammadan.s) carrying on a considerable trade. Fourteenth stage. To Zahardast killa, ten miles. — There are two routes by which a force marching from Habib killa may Total distance from Kohat to proceed -.-either over the Paiwar, or the Ispingawi Zabardaat killa, 142 nnles. » ' i o Kothals. The first is the shorter of the two. H 2 < [ 52 ] ('I'he distances liere given are only approximate.) By the latter, instead of going on through the village of Paivvar, tlie road turns sharp up to tlie right along the bed of a deep ravine, east of the village which comes down from the " Sikaram" peak. At 3 miles from Habib killa pass tlie Gnundi khel ofF-shoot of the Paivvar village strongly situated on a spur of " Sikaram" and containing about 30 houses. As far as this, the road is commanded within easy matchlock range, by the heights on each side, and from this there is a regular ascent to the summit of the Kothal. Leaving the bed of the nallah hitherto traversed to the right, the road passes through a forest of pines, deodars, oak and yews to the top of the range ; the gradient of the ascent is not very difficult until near the summit, and guns upon elephants might be taken over. There are no zigzags. On the Haryab side the descent is very gradual, and road good, passing through a succession of beautiful glades as far as Zabardast killa, a small Jagi tower where the Paiwar route joins with this one. The road by the Paiwar Kothal after passing through the village of that name, crosses several deep ravines running throngb broken ground covered with oak tree jungle, and commanded in many places by spurs coming down from the range separating this from the Ispingawi road, and in one of the gorges of which is situated the small Mangal village of Gobarzan. At 5 miles, pass a little cultivation belonging to the Mangals of Tarai and Kutarai, two small villages behind a spur coming down from the Paiwar Kothal range, the inhabitants of which are notorious thieves, frequently robbing kafilahs. At about 7 miles from Habib killa (the road gradually ascending and latterly along the bed of a ravine) you arrive at the foot of the Kothal, which is about the saine height as the Kohat Kothal from the Peshawar side ; the ascent is by a regular zigzag, the gradient not very steep : but there being one or two large rocks in the road, some labour would be necessary to render it practicable to take guns over even with drag-ropes. The hills are thickly covered with pines, yews, &c. On the crest is a tower constructed for the protection of the road and held by Mangals, the descent from this to Zabardast killa is very gradual, along a glade in the midst of undulations covered with a dense pine forest. At Zabardast killa, there is plenty of open encamping ground to the north, close to the vilhige under which runs the Keria stream from which alone water is procurable. Forage of all sorts scarce, and little or no provisions procurable. Fifteenth stage. To All khel, ten miles. — From Zabardast killa to the village of Ali khel the road lies along the bed of Total distance from Kohat to ji „ t' • i. i i.i i • i • i j i > /. Ali khel, 152 miles. *"^ "^^^"'^ stream, along the high right bank of which are situated the Jagi villages of Lehwani Jaddran, Byram khel and Mallu khel. On the left, spurs run down and com- % [ 53 ] mand the road from different points along the wliole route. The encampinc; ground for a force, would be on an elevated plateau upwards of a mile beyond the village and near the junction of the Keria and Hazar-darakht streams. Infantry and cavalry arrive at it by a road through the village, which after- wards descends into and again ascends out of two very deep " alyads" or ravines ; but guns would have to go down about half a mile and come up the Hazar-darakht stream as far as the village of Shamu khel opposite the en- camping ground, where there is a slope up to the plateau where the camp would be pitched. Water here is from the Hazar-darakht stream. Ali khel is a large village composed of some 50 enclosures, each in itself a little fort ; the houses are of two stories, in the upper of which live the people, while their cattle, &c. are sheltered below. Some small amount of provisions might be procured here, but not without oppression to the people, who can scarcely raise sufficient for home consunii)tion. Forage is scarce, and there is very little grazing for camels : fuel is abundant. There is a road leading over tlie hills from Ali khel into the heart of the Mangal country, and it is much frequented by that tribe, who come over in bands to plunder on this road. Sixteenth stage. To Hazar-darakht, thirteen miles. — The road descends from the plateau, on which any large camp at Total distance from Koliat to ii- i i i i i i i -a i i • 4. 4.1 i j Hazardarakht, 165 miles. ^^' '^'''"'^ "'^"'^ ^''''''' ^^^" pitched, into the bed of tiie stream along which it continues, gradually ascending for tlie rest of this day's march. The valU-y at the last ground was about 2 miles broad ; but about four miles on, upon reaching tlie village of llokian, it narrows into half a mile, with precipitous commanding peaks upon each side, clad with pine forests, llokian contains about 30 houses, and the route onwards from it for the next four miles runs due north, the mountains closing in on each side until at last the stream is conlined to a gorge of not more than 200 yards broad : at two miles beyond llokian there is a glen shooting off to the right which contains a few houses, off-shoots from the Eokian village. At the 8th mile from camp, the road turns sharp due west, while another road called the " Ghariggi" crosses the hills direct to Cabul. The country here consists of lofty ranges of mountains, high spurs from which run down to the bank of the stream, entirely commanding the road, and their slopes are generally very steep and in many places comi)osed of loose shingle, in which many landslips have occurred ; pines and deodar cover the whole. At Hazar-darakht there is no village, and although perhaps tlie broadest place in this elevated glen, there is but just room for the encampment of one regi- ment. Any force in camp here would have to be generally scattered, and the place would be a nasty one to be attacked in : but no better ground is to be [ 54 ] had. Guns would have great difficulty in this march owing to rocks and stones which have been rolled down by floods and settled in the bed of this torrent. No provisions nor forage of any description procurable here, not even for camels. Seventeenth stage. To Ochamarglia or Ilazra, eiglit miles. — The road for the first two miles as far as Gajji thannah is similar Total distance from Kohat to ^^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^ .^.-^j^ of yesterday's march ; Gajji Ochamarglia or Hazra, 173 miles. ' j .1 ' m thannah is a small square garhi, with two towers flanking it, but is itself commanded in all directions by the hills about. Trom this point as far as the foot of the Surkhai Kothal, the ascent is much more gradual, and the bed of the torrent gravelly. A mile beyond this is Kattasang, where there is a watch tower, opposite a gorge in the hills through which travellers sometimes go via the Mangal country, Khost and Dur to Bannu. This tower marks the boundary between the Jaggis and Ghilzies. At 7 miles from Hazar-darakht is the Sirki Kothal, which is on the water- shed of the Kurram and Surkhel streams. The Kothal is a short but very steep one, the soil is a stiff red clay which after rain must become very slip- pery, the ascent is commanded by the knolls on each side, and on the summit is a tower held by Ghilzies. A slight descent, and after traversing for about a mile further a comparative plain, you arrive at Hazra, a post similar to that erected at Jaggi thannah. The encamping ground here is good ; heights all round to be held. Water from springs, the sources of the Surkhel ; no provisions ; and except at certain times in summer but little forage procurable ;. the horses of the country are fed on " teikktra" or wormwood. The eleva- tion of this encamping ground is about 13.458 feet above the level of the sea, and the road is here generally blocked with snow from December to April. EigMeenth stage. To Dohandi, eight miles. — From camp the road, as far as the summit of the Shutur Gardan pass, has a Total distance from Kohat to .^j^^^j ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ commanded Dobandi, xSl miles. ° o » o from peaks all around for about 2 miles. The descent of this pass towards Logar is exceedingly steep, with sharp zigzags and very long; Artillery (1 believe 6 pounders) has been taken over this pass by Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, but he carried the guns on the stout double- humped Bokhara camels ; for wheeled carriage it is at present impracticable, and it would take a vast expenditure of money and labour to make it passable. The rugged nature of the mountains overhanging both sides of this pass with huo-e masses of naked limestone rock cropping out in every direction, ofl'er cover to an enemy from which it would be difficult to dislodge him without great lo?s ; and it would be difficult to withdraw covering parties after the [ 55 ] descent of the pass had been accomplished : in fact, supposing opposition to be offered here, it would be difficult to conceive a worse pass for the passage of an army; and it would be useless to attempt it, except as a diversion, with a brigade of the best light troops, with mountain train batteries and field howitzers on elephants ; but for these animals even, the procuring of forage would be no easy matter. From the Fort of the Kothal to Akhun killa (a small Ghilzi village) the road is along the bed of a small stream never more than 100 yards broad witli huge cliffs towering up several hundred feet on each side ; immediately before arriving at, and after passing this village, the gorge narrows to 30 feet ; from this point for about 3 miles, the ravine continues very steep until joined by a stream coming down from a northern direction ; on the tongue of land between these streams there is room for a camp. On the high karewah lands opposite the village are the remains of a large thannah, now partially ruined. Here forage, fuel, and provisions are not procurable with- out the greatest difKculty. Nineteenth stage. To Khushi, nine miles. — The road for the first 2 miles, as far as the small Ghilzi village of Babbar, Total distance from Kobat to^^ i i^niii'ii i. Khushi I'JO miles. proceeds along the bed ol tlie same stream as that hitherto followed from the foot of the Shutur Gardan Pass ; but here the water goes on through a narrow gorge, and takes a sudden precipitous full down a cliff; while the road leaving its bed, goes up to the right over a small, though rather steep, hill, with a few hundred feet elevation known as the Shinkai Kothal, on the crest of which is a tower or " I3urj" at present held by about 20 Ghilzies who protect this portion of the road from the attacks of small parties of marauding Mangals, who, coming over the hills from Zurmat used to render it dangerous for travellers. Arrived on the higher karewah lauds (or elevated plateaus) of Logar, the road continues gradually descending, and running parallel to the high batdt of the same ravine down which we had come from the Shutur Gardan; its bed having now widened to some 600 feet with banks 300 feet deep. The whole country around presents the most barren, dreary aspect it is pos:?ible to conceive, excepting the bed of the ravine itself, which smiles with green fields and orehaids, and gradually widens to l of a mile at the large village of Khushi, which contains about 300 houses in numerous walled enclosures, or forts. Here is good encamping ground, plenty of water and ])rovisions, but grazing for camels scarce. Fro)n Khuslii to Cahul is !< marcJies, viz. Zirgun Shahr, twelve miles. Safed Sang, twelve miles. Char Asseah, ten miles. — All large villages situated in the open and extensive valley of Logar : — [ 56 ] And to Cabvil, ten miles. — N. B. The measured distance b}' the Kybar route from Peshawar to Cabul is 192 miles. From Khushi to Ghazni. Twentieth stage. To Hissaralc, ten miles. — Road over a most uninteresting country along the bed of tlie Khushi ravine all Total distance from Kohat to ii t •*. • j-- -li ii t i. Ilissarak, 200 miles. *''*^ "''^^ ^^ ^^^ junction with the Logar stream. On both sides is an extensive sandy sterile tract of country affording meagre grazing for flocks of sheep, to within 2 miles of the river bank where rich cultivation commences, and is carried as far as irrigation from the stream can be taken to it. The district of Logar has at first sight a striking appearance to a stranger, for the eye searches in vain for villages or houses of any sort. But the green strip of cultivation following the windings of the stream is interrupted every here and there by a succession of strong mud forts, admirably built and flanking each other ; vfitli bastions at the angles, connected by curtains 30 feet high, which enclose the habitations of the peasantry. As the population is closely packed, every inch of available land is cultivated, and the edges of the water-courses are thickly planted with rows and groves of willow and poplar, which alibrd almost tlie only timber to be met with here; the trees are kept carefully trimmed, and sliooting up straight, are fit to cut after 12 or 14 years. There is a cross road from Hissarak to Kurram, striking off iu a south-easterly direction,** passing through the large *' Kassilbashi" village of Altimur, crossing the water-slied line of the Logar and Kurram rivers into the Zarmat valley, and thence through the Mangal village of Kasin, two coss above the junction of the Haryab with the Kur- ram stream ; but this route is reported difficult and little frequented owing to the predatory habits of the tribes through whose country it passes. Tivcntij-Jirst stage. To Ilabih /cilia, nine miles. — About a mile from the last ground cross the Logar stream, fordable al« Total distance to Habib killa, ^ j ^^^ ^^j^- j ^j j^ j ,^ 20'J miles. '' ' bridge, the piers of which are constructed of a frame work of wood firmly mortised together, filled iu witli large stones and connected logs of wood fixed across the top to support the road way. Tlie road is narrow, and winds about the cultivation, it is seldom broader than to admit of two horsemen going abreast, and passes through several villages among which are the strong walled villages of Sainda and Bankibarak ; good encamping ground is found at Habib killa on the edge of the cultivated lands ; water from a cut from the Logar river ; provisions abundant ; fuel scarce and forage for camels equally so. In Logar the population is extremely mixed, consisting of Tagaks, Ghilzies, Kassilbashis, Mumands, Barakies and Wardaks. [ 57 ] Tvoenty-seconcl stage. To Amir Killa, nine miles. — Through a couiitiT very similar to that traversed in yesterday's march, Total distauee to Aiuh- killa, \ l •l\ c u ^ ^ ,., i 4^1,, .,,11,^., 218 miles ^^^ with, fewer walled enclosures, aud the valley gradually narrowing until at the halting place it is little over GOO yards wide; about 4 miles from Hahib killa, a cross road strikes off to the left through the village of Chillozan and over the Sirgawau kothal, which is difficult, but practicable for a horseman, and by which Ghazni can be readied (by a sowar) iu one day. Amir killa consists of 3 forts, which completely cross the valley ; one of these is built in the form of an octagonal bastion loopholed for musketry : if occupied, and the enemy at the same time holding the hills which run down from each side, it would be a very strong and defensible position. There is no ground here, or any where else within the next three miles, extensive enough for the encampment of any number of men : provisions might be collected from the villages as well as fodder in the shape of " bhusa;" grazing for camels and fuel very scarce; water from the Logar stream. Twenty-third stage. To HydarJchel thirteen miles. — The first portion of this march is along a very narrow valley, and the road Total distance to Hydurkhel, commanded all the way by spurs running down 231 luiles, J J r o on each side : at the 2nd mile (ron» camp, pass the large fortified village of Tangi Wardak consisting of 3 forts built on the left bank of tiie Logur stream, all with high well-built " pakka" (mud and stone) walls, loopholed for musketry aud in echellon Hanking each other ; at the 4th mile is the small village of Doabhe, at the junction of and between the Shiniz and Logar streams. The road here leaves the valley watered by the latter, and turn- ing up the bed of the Shiniz strikes acro^s and joins the great higiiway be- tween Cabul and Ghazni at about G miles from Amir killa, and proceeding along it through the cluster of villages called Syad-abad arrives at the large village of Hydarkhel, from which point the route is described in the Quarter Master Ge- neral's route by Major Hougli, &.<:. ite. tic. and consists of the foiiowiug stagers. To Haft Asijah cJeocii miles. Total distance to Haft Asyah 212 iiiilc3. To Skash Gaw, eight and three quarter miles. Total distance to Slia&li Gaw, 2o0i miles. To Ghazni, thirteen and halj miles. Total distance to Uhuzni, ^Glj miles. APPENDIX B. Wuziris. Some account of the Tribes through tvltose country the Paiwar route from Kohcd to Ccibul i^asses, after leaving the British Bonier. The country inhabited by these wild tribes may be described as bounded on the North, by Khost ; on the East, by that portion of the Kohat District extending from Ba- hadur Khel to Dillan in the Khattak hills and Thall on the Kurram ; on the south, by Diar and the British Frontier at Tak ; and on the west, by an ima- ginary line drawn about 20 miles east of and parallel to the Guleri Pass. But it is not to be supposed that the Waziris are entirely confined to these limits, for tliey often attack Kaffilahs proceeding by the Guleri route, and feed their flocks in Morwanzai. They themselves consider their head quarters to be, during tlie winter months, in Feraat-uUah, and in summer on the slopes of the Tur- ghar mountains which seem to be the range connecting the Takht-i-Sulaiman mountains with the Safed koh, at the head of the Kurram. 2. The Waziris describe themselves as descended from one Wazir, who, when in difficulties, took refuge in the natural fastnesses of Feraat-ullah. He begat a son Khidu, who in turn had a son Massu, from whom are sprung all the different branches of Waziri tribes. 3. The portion of tribe located in this direction is called the Darwesh Khel Waziris. It divided into Amazais and Atmanzaies, which are again sub- divided into the following clans, of which the approximate strength in fight- ing men is Amazaies. ... 1,000 ... 1,000 Taji Khel, ... Khagal Khel, Gangi Khel, Sirki Khel, Spirki Khel, Pyndah Khel, Zalli Khel, Amrmiszan, .., Badin Khel, IShadeaki, Total 400 500 2,000 1,000 2,000 2,000 500 200 10,600 [ 59 ] Atmanzai. CabulKhel, 2,000 TuriKhel, 4,000 Warghanvali Khel, 3,000 Mallikshahi, 1,000 Muhammad Khel, 2,000 MaddarKhel, 1,000 Total 13,000 Grand Total, 23,G00 All these clans are again subdivided into numerous smaller khels, but all are quite distinct from the other great division known as the Maiswud "Waziris, whose lands border on the Bannu and Tank frontier. Tlie Cabul Khel and Mallikshahi factions have their winter grazing grounds on the lands of Billand Khel and Thall. The first is divided into Miami 700, Sifalli 800, and PipalU 500. These Waziris all belong to the Samil faction of politics so well known on this frontier, and have a blood-feud of long standing with the Turi tribes; they are a wild wandering race, living in black tents called in their language " Ghizilis ;" and their principal wealth is invested in herds of camels, sheep, and goats ; they possess a very fine breed of horses, which are exceedingly hardy and active, though small, when compared with the general run of our cavalry horses, and often impetuous and vicious animals. These are ditlieult to pro- cure in any numbers as the demand for them is great and they are numerically scarce : it is said they have Arab blood in them which was introduced from Nadir Shah's stables; one story is that, on that conqueror's return from the plundering of Delhi, he presented the tribe with a number of Arabs for the services which the tribe had rendered him, while another, and to my mind, more correct, version is, that the tribe stole a number, of valuable Arabs out of Nadir Shah's stables while his army was returning tlirough the Guleri pass. In religion, the Waziris belong to the Sunni sect of Muhammadans and, al- though of AfFghan descent, have many customs peculiar to themselves. For instance, among Affghans it is customary to murder both parties in case of adultery, whereas the Waziris kill the woman but only cut ofl" the nose of the man. It is a most remarkable fact that internal clan-feuds are almost un- known among these tribes, but on the contrary they are said to be so united, that if an enemy contrives to plunder the cattle and goods of one portion of a clan, it is not uncommon for the remainder to unite and make good the loss. I 2 [ CO ] Fkom the village of 131iiigzai in Ballyamin, on the high road from Thall to Kurram, a valley runs off in a westerly direction Kliost and Kliostwalls. , i • i • ji i . i • i t-i j i along which is the best road into 1\ host, as only one small ascent ov Kothal has to be crossed and footmen can traverse the distance in a few hours. The inhabitants of upper Khost ai'e called Khostwalls by their neighbours, while the lower portion of that valley is occupied by Waziris, with whom the former are on perfectly good terms and make common cause against their Tori neighbours. This valley of Khost is said to be nowhere so broad as that of Kurram ; it has, however, a greater breadtb of cultivation, but the most of it is unirri- gated "lallani;" the soil is very fertile where irrigated from the three streams which come down in a south-easterly direction ; the most northerly from Shabarras, tlie middle one from the borders of Zurmat, while the most southerly, called the Khetu, drains from the Jaddran country ; all three uniting form one stream, which falls into the Kurram river at a place called Zinnuni, 8 coss below Eilland Khel. Khost is said to be about 40 miles long, bounded on the north and east by Zurmat and Kurram ; to the south by three tribes of Wazii'is, the Gliar- baz Maddar Khel and Mahanad, while the Jaddran country shuts it in on the west. It contains no very hirge villages, but a vast number of small ones : the largest, and which may be called the capital of the valley, is Sher Killa. The total number of inhabitants of the valley, which is part of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan's Jagir, is estimated at 12,000, paying a revenue of about the same number of rupees j'early, collected every two or three years by a strong force sent for the purpose, and which eats up all that comes within its reach. The counti'y of the Zymukht Affghans may be described as a tract about 25 miles long, lying between two ranges of Zyuuikht Aflglians. . . ... - , mountanis wlueh are connected by a water-shed line, having three slopes each with its distinct line of drainage. The first forms the Schalli stream, and lias on its banks the villages of Torawari, Danibakki Yastai, Zowar, Spekeyt, and Tanail ; the second forms the Sangroba rivulet, near the sources of which are the two largest villages in the district, Manattu and Chinarik, besides Tannah, Sangrobah, Adhmeylah and Duraghah, sprink- led along its banks ; while the third slope contains the villages of Gavvakhi Lurahmela and Doleragah (the two last belonging to Arakzai tribes) on the deep ravines which fall into the Kurram river in Makhezai. [ 61 ] The Zjmuldit Affglians can, at their utmost need, only muster some 3,000 families ; but have always been supported by their Arakzai neighbours in any struggle with other tribes.* 'J'heir country is generally covered with jungle, and cultivation is only to be seen in the immediate vicinity of villages, owing chiefly to the number of internal blood feuds in this clan which preclude the possibility of agricultural operations being carried on at any distance from sujjport. Travellers save a day's march by taking the route through this countr}^ in going from Kohat to Kurram, but they have to pay heavily for a safe conduct through, (called Badragga). The Zymukhts are physically, a fine looking, powerful race, forming in this respect a striking contrast to their Turi neighbours. They are on the Samil side of politics, and are said to be the descendants of a tribe of Tur Tarins who immigrated from their own country and colonized this nook. The general aspect of the district of KtUTain is picturesque and attractive in the extreme to an European stranger fresh Kurram and the Turies, „ , ,. rri- ^ i ■ -, • Iron) tlie plains ot India: a clear and rapid river which has its sources in the pine clad slopes of the Safed Koh mountains, which shut in this valley on the west and north, rushes in a winding rocky bed down the centre of a deep lillet of rich cultivation sprinkled with villages, each having its clumps of magiiificent plane trees, while the distance is every where closed by the ever-varying aspect of the noble mountains just meu- tioiied, which tower over the valley in its whole length. In the centre of this district and about 25 miles from the Paiwar Kothal, stands the fort of Kurram, the residence of the local governor ; it is a square mud enclosure, with faces about 100 yards long having " burjes" or round towers at the angles and in the centre of each face. There is but one gateway, towards the west ; around the interior of the walls are built quarters for the garrison and a bazar, while a second square with faces parallel to those of the extt-rior work, forms a citadel containing the magazines and (juarters of the commandant ; a covered way, and ditch which cau be made wet or dry at pleasure, runs all round the works ; the latter is crossed by a draw-bridge consisting of a strong platform on small wheels, running on two powerful beams thrown across the ditch ; the thickness of the walls is not such as to resist artillery, although ample to present an in- * Tlie Zj-mulilit are divided into the two factions of Mamuzi and Khwahdad Khel wliich are subdivided and liave their present liead men as follows. Mamuzi. Khvvadad Khel. Mead Men. llctid Men. Wattizai, Kliaiil, Kliaddu Kiicl, Pahlwan. Manattu, Slialuiawa/. Babuko Kliel, Sliuril' Khan. Mewdan, Mir Shah. Assan Khel, Mullah Khan. Daugi, Abbas. I'lippij Mihimast. [ C2 ] surmountable obstacle to any ordinary irregular AflTghan force. The present garrison consists of two companies of regular infantry, five mountain-train guns with their artillery men, some jazailchis and irregular sowars. The district is part of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan's Jagir, and yields about 60,000 Kupees per annum ; of which, some 12,000 Rupees are collected as transit duty on kaffiUahs, and the remainder is land revenue. The Sirdar sel- dom visits the country himself, but governs it through a Deputy or " Naib." Collections can only be made by a considerable force, which is usually sent over from Cabul, and when it does arrive, sweeps the whole country clean before it. The soil produces both the rabbi and kharif crops ; the chief pro- duct being rice, which is cultivated in sufficient quantities to admit of extensive exportation to Cabul and neighbouring countries. Wheat, barley, Indian-corn and a little cotton are also grown. All the irrigated lands are close along the banks of the river, and whenever extraordinary floods sweep away any portion of these fields it is a common practice to plant rows of willows as tliiekly as they will stand and to keep them cut down to two or three feet in heiglit, for some years : these, spreading, form a very complete barrier, which in ordinary floods catches and retains a rich deposit of alluvial soil ; as soon as it is di'y, a crop is sown on it, while each succeeding flood only adds to the depth of the deposit ; the cultivator loses but one crop, and, in a very few years, regains a fine field supported on a living willow wall. Between this cultivated tract along the bank of the river, on the edge of which most of the villages are placed, and the bottom of the lowest slopes of the Safed Koh (called by the natives Tissin Ghar) mountains, lies an un- culturable tract varying from two to ten miles in breadth and sloping down towards the cultivation where it terminates in an abrupt bank having a com- mand of from 20 to 60 feet above the irrigation. It is barren and strong, and intersected by numerous deep ravines, down which flows the drainage from the adjacent mountain ; at the head of these where they leave the hills are to be found some of the largest villages such as Shallozan, Ziran and Kirman, built in narrow gorges and famous for the luxuriant orchards of fruit trees, as well as the silk grown by the inhabitants. The large village of Paiwar, 7 miles from the Kothal, after which it is called, is built in a similar position, and strange to say contains almost as many Hindus as Muhammadans, engaged in a thriving retail trade of goods imported from Cabul and the Panjab. Large piles of stones in the bed of a torrent now dry, mark the spots where these Hindus have from time to time burnt their dead. In former days when the Aflghans ruled supreme from the Indus west- ^ ,. . . „,, ^ ward, this tract was divided generally into two Former divisions of the country. , , divisions known as Bangash-i-bala and Bangash- [ <33 ] i-paiar. The latter included all the present Koliat district, and extended to Tliall ; and the former all that country now called Kurraui, which was again subdivided into the districts of Ballyamin, extending from Sirakhrour to Hazir Pir's Ziarat ; Makhizai, from Hazir Pir's Ziarat to Suddah ; Darra-i Chamkam* mi from the stream that comes down from the Paiwar village which falls into the Kurrara river a little above the village of Eruknah, and upwards mitil the country divides into naiTOW glens ; while the remaining portion was known as Kurram khas. From Kirman, a long " darrah" or glen runs up for 15 miles, between two bold spurs, parallel to the general run of the Safed Koh range, and is inhabited by an independant tribe called Paras who have numei'ous small villages scat- tered along the glen, which is very narrow. The shrine of Falim-i-aUim, the father of Nadir Shah, in Kirman, is cons^i- dered very sacred by the Turi tribes, who are all of the Shiah sect of Muham ma- dans. Little is known of the origin of these people ; they and their neighbours the Jagis are supposed to be the descendants of two Mogal brothers, Tur and Jagi, and are not considered Pathans, between them and whom there is a marked ditference in physical appearance, dress and many customs. 'Jhey are generally short, compact, though rather sickly looking men, with either a skulking or cunning look about them ; they wear earrings, and dress in a sort of loose frock coming down to the knees, either of a dark blue colour interspersed with patches of white, or a white garment patched with blue : a common blue or white turban and " Kamarbaiid," and breeches loose above, but fitting tight from the knee down to the ancle, being shod with sandals. The Turis are armed in much the same way as Affghans, and are supposed to be able to muster some 3,0U0 footmen and oOO horse. The latter mounted on sorry look- ing j;ides, small but very wiry animals, are adepts at border forays, and have a great local reputation. The footmen are thought little of, though a considerable number are to be found in the regiments of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, The Turia are divided into the 4 factions of Dupenzui, Sargalli, Gundekhel and Allyzai. This tribe have a peculiar custom of firing numerous shots with matchlocks over the head of a newly born male child, as an introduction to the ordinary scenes of this life, and to accustom him to the sound, so that he may not shrink from the fire of his enemies in after life. The Kothal of Paiwar and four small villages in the vicinity are held by a portion of the Mangal tribes, of whom but little is Maugal. , known ; they have a tower on the kothal where they levy a tax on all travellers frequenting this route, robbing the unprotected, and skulking from the strong ; acting as guides and exacting safe-conduct money [ 04 ] (Badarga) from Turis proceeding to Logar or Cabul. Those Mangals are a considerable tribe, said to possess 250 forts and 500 black tents, scattered over Zurmat : which they hold conjointly with the Sahnau Khel Ghilzies, and can muster about 8,000 men. They ai'e divided into The first three are found in r> n i ji /-ht- i t^i i t^i • • ^ ■• the different glens, while in the ^^^ smaller clans, the (Mn'al Ivhel, Khajun, Zaub, Chamkammi darrah which is en- Murghai, and Kamal kliale) ; of these the Miral tirely held by Mangals are now to be found the hostile fac- Khel are the most powerful, and the headmen of tions of Murghai and Kamal this division are the chiefs of the whole tribe. The khel (berter known as the Madda khel), Kaimnazai, Bubu khel, Khajuris are almost all robbers, living at the ex- b:^ and1li^:!X"^ ''^'' P-«« «f tl- --'^^ - general, and their neighbours lu particular. The Mangals of Zurmat were in- dependent till about 10 years ago, when Sirdar Muhammad Amin Khan reduced them to submission to the Cabul authorities, and their country now forms part of the Jagir of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan governor of Kurram, In April 1858, Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, for the first time for 20 years, collected the revenue of Chamkummi. He was strongly opposed and lost a number of men in doing so. It seems they paid their revenue shortly after the arrival of the troops with little demur ; but being driven to desperation by tlie acts of the Aifghan soldiery, it was only in desperation that they fought for the honor of their children. ArTEE crossing the Paiwar Kothal from Kurram, the traveller finds himself in an elevated valley down one side of which '■^ ' flows the Keriah rivulet in a deep bed ; (being the drainage of this portion of the Safed koh ;) the banks are very high and along the right are situated most of the villages ; below Allykhel about 13 miles from the Paiwar Kothal it meets a broad mountain torrent coming down from Hazar-darakht, and the t\vo combined flow on under the name of Haryab ; all this tract is the home of the Jaji tribes. They are estimated at from 7 to 800 families, and divided into numerous smaller sections ; there are 8 divisions called wans, as follows. 1st Lehwani, 2nd Addakhel, which contains the Khwnjakhel and is the chief, 3rd Petla which is coupled with the AlHsemgeh, 4th Ahmadkhel who combine with the Byankhel, 5th Allykhel, Cth Jhamukhel, 7th Hussalnkhel and 8th Keriah Ahmedkhel. The Jajis are greatly weakened as a tribe by internal feuds, and most of their villages divided accordingly into numerous separate parts to suit these factions, while rival towers shoot up side by side in every direction affording a running commentary on the state of society. Some of these towers are of a novel construction, being nothing more than a platform on poles about 18 or 20 feet high, with a loopholed mud parapet of about 3 feet, reached by a ladder, thus [ 65 ] /' /-" i. I ! 1^ \s\v LI i y«^^ - .4< at: '.tsStOOt-mm: '^.^.^^ ^^''-v4 *:^^^^ii^#>fe> v^ ■'!i».S I All the villages are well built, and walltnl, and each quarter is a small fort in itself, and the walls loopholed in every possible direction. The houses are mostly two storied : in the upper live the family, while the ground floor is allotted to the cattle and sheep. The climate of llaryab is exceedingly cold in winter, but delightful during the summer months, as the valley has an elevation of 7,000 feet above the sea level. The people seem a prolific race, if one may judge from the number of children to be seen about every village ; but they have barely culturable land sufficient to produce subsistence for them ; many men of this tribe are to be found doing work as day labourers along the British frontier stations during the winter months. The village of Kokion is famous for the honey produced there ; each house is said to have, at least, eight or ten hives in it, and the bees are of a larger variety than tliose usually seen domesticated iu the East. The greater part of their produce is exported. [ GG ] BoRDEBllsro on the Jiijis and liolding the Surkhal and Sliutur-gardaii passes are the Suhiiman-khel section of the Ghilzi trihes, and as this is hut a fraction of that great clan, the strongest in Affghanistan, it may he as well to give a general sketch of the whole here. In A. D. 1712, tliese Ghilzies under their chief Mir Vis were supreme in Affghanistan, and ruled the country from the Khybar pass, on the east, to the province of Kirman in Persia westv,rard ; but they were over- thrown by Nadir Shah in 1737. In 1802, they were again disastrously routed out by the Duranies at the battle of Sajawan, and lastly on the 11th of May in the same year their power was completely crushed by Wazir Fateli Khan at Guljain where their chief Abdul-rahman Khan Utak with his two sons, and Shah-ud-din Khan his prime minister w^ere taken prisoners and blown away from guns; a pile of Ghilzi skulls still marks the field of battle, and affords some idea of the terrible slaughter of that day. The Ghilzies were originally a pastoral race, and many sections of the tribe still retain their nomadic habits, for as surely as the " Gulbahar and Sialihahur" (spring and autumn) come round, they will be found packing up their worldly goods and chattels, and moving off to more congenial climes ; on these occasions the sheep are sent on a month before, and followed at in- tervals by the cattle and camels ; the women, children, and heavy baggage being carried on the latter. The grazing grounds of these tribes both in the hills and plains are apportioned off, and as well known even in the wildest country, as the gardens and fields of more civilized races ; and as a Ghilzi is always buried close to the encampment in which they may happen to die, it becomes a point of honor among these tribes never to give up an inch of ground which the clan has once occupied, as it may be the last resting place of some of their ancestors ; and it is easy to imagine that this feeling alone leads to frequent and bloody feuds. In the days of Ghilzi supremacy the Sakzai section of the Utak clan, of which Mir Alam Khan is the present head, w\as considered the " Badshah khel," or that portion from which their hereditary chiefs were chosen ; but after the Duranies came to power, the Ghilzies found themselves too much scattered to depend solely on one head, and the Zabar-Uhel faction of the Sulaiman khel was selected as the head of the eastern branch, while the re- mainder continued under Mir Alam Khan, But since the death of Musah Mehtar (who left a brother Khaniyar, the present chief of Zurmat) no one has been allowed by the Amir of Cabul to a^^suuie the chiefship of even all the eastern Ghilzies. The Ghilzies are acknowledged by the Affghans to be the hardiest and bravest of their race, and our own experience in Affghanistan confirms this opinion. [ 67 ] On the occasion of a portion of the tribe attacking Colonel Wymer's force in May, 1811, that officer paid a tribute of praise to the cool and deliberate manner in which they advanced in the teeth of his artillery ; but perhaps their bravery was still more conspicuous, in May, 1840, when they attacked Captain William Anderson's detachment of 1200 regular troops with guns. As recorded by Major Hough, " 2500 Gliilzies were, on this occasion, defeat- " ed near Tazi. Though exposed to a well-directed and destructive fire of " shrapnel and grape, the Ghilzies came down twice in a body of 200, riding " up to the centre of Lieutenant Spence's company, and died on the men's " bayonets. They had 200 killed, and 40 or 50 were cut up by the cavalry " afterwards." (Hough, page 381.) These tribes have two prinei[)ul divisions, Ibrahim and Turan, which are- again split up into the following clans or " khels." Ibrahim contains 13, viz : 1st. Zabar-khel (Klian-khel) of which the notorious Aziz Khan is the pre- sent cliicf. His sister is married to the Amir of Cabul b}' whom she has one son, Sirdar Muhammad Yusaf Khan. The main strength of this section is located in Laghman, and migrate to the mountains above Hissarak on the northern slopes of the Safe koh. 2nd. Ahmadzai, of which Dowlat Khan is chief; he has three sons, Babojan, Badshah Khan, and Maiz-ullah Khan, whose sister is marrietida trade of Herat and the Xadull3' darrah, or more properly speaking the collection of the gum from the wild }dant, is in the hands of the Kakars, v.-ho send down from hve to six thousand people annually to these localities, and pay considerable suras to the governors of Herat for the privilege of the asaloetida collecting monopoly. The present actual strength of the Kakar tribes and their divisions may be gleaned from the following brief notice of each section. Jelazai. — This is the most influential division of the Kakars, and Rasid Khan, their chief, may be considered as the present head of tlie whole clan, although the other factions do not, in ordinary times, recognise his authority. The Jelazaies can muster some 2000 lighting men, and their main strength lies about Khaissur and Bori. JMusAiiiiEL. — Of which Bari Khan is chief, musters 3000 men, occupying L [ ^-1 1 Sarai a place at Uie foot uf the mountains on the Marri frontier, with which tribe tliis section have interminable feud. KuDiZAi. — Numbers 2000 strong, and is headed by Simuttya ; this section is rather looked down upon by the rest of the clan owing to their occupying the country about Dirzi Karez, and being obliged to pay revenue to the ruler of Peishin, to whose territory they adjoin. UsTMAKKHEL. — Of this scctiou Dadey Klian is chief; they can turn out about 2000 men. It was an offshoot of this section, which after assisting Sultan Mahmud of Ghazui in his expedition to Hindustan, in A. D. 997, set- tled in the hilly range, forming the northern boundaiy of the Peshawar valley and to the north west of Ranezir, where they are to be found in the present day. ABDULLA.ZAI. — Musters 2000, and are headed by Sirdar Khan, who resides with the main strength of his section at Mayanna. Kabbiza.1. — Who hold the lands of Tarbezai on the Zhobe road, are headed by IMamur Khan, are chiefly shepherds and turn out 1000 strong. Hamzazi. — Is headed by Dadu Khan and Kutu Khau, turns out 1100 men, and occupies Shahraug. SnABBOZAT, Tbnizai and Alizai : each musters 200 strong, with Khannan Khan, Alam Khan and P.dikar Khan as chiefs. The Alizai have another faction 300 strong under Khandi Khan at China. The head-quarters of the first three are at Dirzi and Sazri. Khidbarzai occui)ies Maskat, and has Shakkur Khan at its head,nmsterlng 200 strong. The total fighting strength of the Kakars, including the Targhanni, and Zhobe factions, would thus be, from 14 to 20,000 men ; to the former of these sections belonged the infamous Hnji Khan Kakar. The Kakars may be said to be on friendly terms with, and consider them- selves brethren of, the Ghilzies ; their head mulah is Abd-ul-llasul, a native of Bori, an intelligent grey-headed man, who for the last 20 years has been the political representative of his clan at Kandahar ; he describes the climate of his native plains as being the exact happy medium between the extreme heat of Hindustan and cold of Kandahar; and tells the following anecdote illustrative of the primitive simplicity of his tribe : When Shah Lajob-ul-Mulk was driven to take refuge among the Kakars after his defeat at Kandahar, the whole of the clan thronged round his camp to see a live king, and were utterly astonished to find that Eoyalty possesses the same form and features as other specimens of the human race. Besides the Kakars above mentioned, there are some 400 families residing in the villages of Kochkhana, Balakaz and Deh Khojah in the Kandahar neiohbourhood ; these are under Malliks Shcr Khan, Azim Khan and Nur Muhammad, respectively. [ 75 ] From the extreme antiquity of tliis clan, there Is no end to the ramifica- tions into which it has run, and tlie following trihes all claim connection with, or descent from the Kakars. Arabia khel, or race of JMuUalis. The Tymunis of Gour, the Ferozkobi Hazara and the Khanjanl tribe of iSirstan (who are generally called Beluchis but are in reality and acknowledge themselves descended from the Sangarkhel Kakara,) as well as the Utmankhels and Kakars already noticed. Tarins. The Tarins are divided into two great divi;;ionp, known as the Safcd and Tur Tarins : the former being independent, while the latter inhabit the valley of Pi.ishin bordering on the Achakzaies, and are subject to the Kandahar government. The ISafed Tarins hold the country in which are the sources of the Alamrud and its numerous tributaries : they, like their Kakar neighbours, are generally engaged in pastoral pursuits and in the culture of just sullicient cereals for home consumption, I have already in this paper, in my remarks on the Kakars, remarked that they are generally on friendly terms with the Tarins, but this statement must be taken in the sense in which such an expression is used among Pathans who take no account of the continual petty feuds going on between all neigh- bours : but in the hour of danger these clans might be expected to com- bine, as they have indeed frequently done, to oppose a comn)on enemy. Por- tions of these clans are often doing so to make inroads against their inveterate enemies the Marris, or to oppose such raids made against their own country from the same quarter. Upon the advance of the British troops into Affghanistan in 1838, by the Bolan route, several plundering forays were made upon our camels at graze, bag- gage on the march, &c. &c. by bands of marauders said to be Kakars and Tarins ; but it must be remembered that it is always most convenient as well as a com- mon practice among Affghans to give all the credit of such exploits, to some re- mote tribe, or to one whom they know it would be inconvenient for the powers that be, to punish ; though it will be almost invariably found that the real per- petrators are among those living in the neighbourhood ; so that,notvvithstanding the little intercourse we have ourselves had with the Tarins has tended to do any thing but pre-possess us in their favour, I have given them credit for the char- acter of general peacefulncss, which they hold among their neighbours. There i are com[>arisons among thieves, and when in a country like AflTghanistan. where an honest man is seldom if ever met with, one can only sj)eak compari- tively ; for the very i)est of them would, in a civilized country, be eonsideied as scoundrels of tlie blackest dye, and consigned to the 'joumion hangman. L 2 [ 76 ] The Safed Tarius are divided into four sections; SnADOzai, Ml'upa'NI, Laskani and Adwani, of the first of these Hazar Khan is chief, and resides with the strength of his clan, amounting to some 800 men at Thall, which although the capital of his district, is a mere collection of mud huts. The MuEPANi muster 800 strong under Harun Khan, The Lasrani are 1,200 men under Ashraf Khan, while the Abwani acknowledge Aziz Khan as their chief, and are distrihuted over Thall, Sotali and liaha, in the following proportions : 300 men in the first under Biland Khan Attarzai ; 1,200 in Sotali, while Sirdar Gulzar Khan Umarzai with 1,500 men heads the Ilaha party. The total number of fighting men which the Safed Tarins could muster would thus be about 6000 ; their country is very similar in its physical features to that of the Kakars already described. There are two small off-shoots of the Ustaranies of the Derajat, together with the Punni Lehvvanies settled in a few villages in the neighbourhood (be- tween Thall and Bori ;) of these Nur Muhammad Khan, Umarkhel, and AH Muhammad Khan Daudzai are ths most influential men ; they number about 500 families, all engaged in trade with the Derajat and Kandahar, and occa- sionally going down to Sebi and Dadar. The routes usually followed by them are as follows. lloute from Kandahar to Dera Ghazi Khan. Killah AbduUa, 91| miles, along the well known high road going down the Bolan pass, viz. Khusbah 7 miles, 4 furlongs. f -■ Deh Haji, 12 1 Dori (river), 8 4 Nahal Mandah, ]5 4 Killab Fateb-ullah, ]2 Dandi Gulai, 10 4 Khojak Pass, 14 9 Killah Abdulla, 11 bp 2 1 5 '^ *^ o Total 9U From this point, the route strikes off to Shahdad, 6 coss or three hours march. This is a Tarin village situated in a narrow valley ; the road in this day's march is through the well cultivated and thickly inhabited valley of Peishin. Maeghat, 2 marches, the first is 9 hours work to a village (name forgotten) situated at the head of the same glen as Shahdad only higher up. Marghat is inhabited by Siraantha Kakars, partially subject to the ruler of Peishin. Water plentiful from harezaha and springs. SiMANTHA, is the head-quarters of the section of Kakars who bear the [ 77 ] same name. It is situated in a amphitheatre of hills, the soils producing rich crops irrigated from karezahs and springs ; this is a very long march through an undulating and partially cultivated country, with here and there a cluster of houses. DuHOAi, 8 hours, a difficult Kothal has to he crossed in this march, and there is a great scarcity of water both on the road and at Durgai itself, where it is only procurable from one karezah. SiRi BoRi, 8 hours. This is atolenible road crossing several small Kothals ; couutr}'', alternate hill and dale, the latter generally cultivated, and occupied by Kakars. Siri Bori is the name given to the last village, situated at the head of the Bori plain, water plentiful. Bour, 8 hours. This is a large walled town and capital of the Kakars ; the name is also given to the district generally, which is tolerably level, cultivated and sprinkled with Kakar villages ; water from numerous springs and karezahs. Makutar, 8 hours. Through a country very similar to that iu yesterday's march. Makhtar is a small Kakar village or rather encamping place, for the people are all nomadic, subsisting on the produce of their flocks and herds. Water very scarce, and onl}' procurable from a brackish spring. Bazuani, 9 hours. This is a Luni village, a little off the road, on the side of which there is a tank where mercliants and travellers usually encamp ; the road in this march is decidedly bad through a hilly district ; water every wlicre scarce. liUKHAn, 8 hours. A village belonging to the Kathran Bclucliis, without whose protection and escort it is not safe to cross this district, infested as it is by plundering parties of Marris. Couiitry, as in yesterday's march, with a few scattered hamlets in some of thedarrahs. " Water at Ilukhar from a good spring." Makani, (also called Sakhi Sirwar's Ziarat.) This is a long and difficult day's march. Immediately after leaving the last ground the road crosses a stream which divides itself into two branches; (one of these goes dotvn the Buzdar country and Sarragh pass, and by this road many of the difficulties of this march can be avoided). Country, bleak and barren, water to be found in occasional springs in the different " darrahs." A high steep range of mountains have to be crossed by a path known as the Paiwat Kothal ; the road is reported very difficult for camels and yabos. Makani is a small Ziarat with one or two fakir's houses, and a few trees near a spring, at the entrance to the hills and on our own frontier. ' From Makani it is (as is well known) but two marches of 8 and 9 hours respectively, passing through the village of Choti, to Dera Ghazi Khan. I It will be remembered that this route from Dera Ghazi Khan as far as Bori [ 78 ] (from which point we struck oft' for Ghnzni) was followed b_v the Emperor Baber in 1505, ;uid he complained of liis cavaliy having- been starved for want of grain. EOUTE FROM TlIALL XO SeBC. Parka, 9 eoss. Road for the greater part of the way through a narrow " darrah," and then over a difficult Kothal, known as the Marri Parra. Parra is a small village belonging to the Vensl Tarins, (a subdivision of one of those already given,) water is procured from a spring. Wood and grass are both plentiful, but no supplies can be expected. Narkas. All this day's march, about the same distance as yesterday's, is down the bed of a mountain-torrent ; the halting-place is at a small collec- tion of huts occupied by a few syads and their disciples, water from springs. Badra, 8 eoss. A Marri village in a tolerably well cultivated and open tract, where water is procured from numerous springs; road as in last march, along the bed of the stream. Sebi is a well known Khojak settlement ; road difficult over broken un- dulating countrj'. Water from the Beji road. Sebi is a walled town, and it was from here that Colonel Wilson's detachment were obliged to retreat in 1841. Sebi pays revenue to Kandahar, and is about 40 miles north east of Dadar. The whole of this route is completely in the hands of the Marrls, and no men can pass along it, without paying them for safe escort. Kallahs, if they ever do take this road, have to pay one rupee in thirty on the value of their pro- perty. There is another route, somtimes followed, direct from Thall to Kakan, the head-quarters of the Turis, of which the following is a brief sketch ; each march is from 8 to 9 eoss. From I'liall to Shinrud. At about three eoss from Tliall, arrive at a range of hills which are crossed by sowars and footmen by the Khanmak Kothal described as difficult and steep ; to avoid this, laden cattle are taken round along the bed of the Abanrud, which joins Shinrud; this longer route is known as the Rahi Pajjai ; Shinrud is a " darrah," with one or two hamlets in it, watered from the bed of the stream. It is neutral ground, on the border between the Marris and Tarins. Mattutae, a spot belonging to the Marris, where the land is only occasion- ally cultivated. The road crosses another range of hills i)y the Sundi Kotiial, but which, like that in tlie last march, can be turned. Water procured from springs. Mahmud: this is a considerable sized Marri village, with a large extent of [ 79 ] cultivation about it, all of which is unirrigated. Water from springs ; the road in this march is said to b? good, but winding through hills by the Kalu- hair pass. Fatmah KA:!fDEE. Another large village with cultivation round it ; water from springs. Country hilly and broken. Tarikuux). Road good ; but still traversing the same style of country as yesterday. Tarikrud is the name of a glen, sprinkled with hamlets, and down which runs a small stream. Kaiian. lload through occasional villages, and down the bed of mountain- torrents. Country bleak and barren. Along the whole course of tliis route, no supplies could be procured ; but grass is plentiful; and tlie nomadic Marris possess large flock and herds. The TuR Tarins are all cultivators, occupying the Peishin valley, paying revenue to the rulers of Kandahar, (Sirdar Kallu Khan Barakzai is the pre- sent governor of Peishin,) and muster about 3000 families divided into 15 khels, as shown in the following table. The Karballa division are somehow connected with the well known Syads of Peishin, who arc co-jjartners with the Tarins in that valley. These Syads are among the chief traders in western Atighanistan, and are deeply engaged in the horse and slave-trade. Tun Takixs. APPENDIX D. Yellow- e r Baz (( ^'^- iBaslm A few notes on Affghan field-sports. It would be impossible for a stranger to live any time among Affgbans and not to be struck witb tbeir passionate fondness for field-sports of many sorts, but more especially hawking. The late Wazir Muhammad Akbar Khan spent a great part of his leisure time in this diversion, and his sons as well as many of the chief Sirdars follow his example ; his great delight was in deer hawking, which must be placed at the head of this class of sport. The birds usually trained in Affghanistan, are of two classes ; distinguished, I believe, in Europe as the long and short-winged '^^ "^^' hawks ; but whicli in the east are better known by the color of the eyes, Avhich are either yellow or black : the female of both varieties is the larger, and more valuable bird ; and the following are the native names for the different species, in each of these families. Females. Males. Baz (Goshawks) Jurra. lin (Sparrow hawks) Basha. Shikra Chippakh. f Chargh (Falco Cervialis) Charghelah. I Balui (True coursing falcon) Balui Bacha. Shahin (Peregrine Falcon) Koellah. Lagar Jhagar. Turmuti Tuni. ^Regi (Falco shuter) Jlaknoni. The initiatory training of all is the same, but the yellow eyed-hawk is never hooded after its education is completed ; unless it be in the case of a sparrow hawk, and she only when at rest in the house. The black-eyed birds, on the contrary, are never unhooded except at the instant when required to fly at game, or for practice ; and it is truly wonderful to see the quickness with which these birds will at once distinguish the quarry at almost incredible distances, on being suddenly unhooded in the full glare of a tropical noonday sun. The former are short-flighted, and seldom lost ; while the latter from the length of wing, tower to an immense height and follow their game to any distance ; circum- stances which often lead to the best of hawks being frequently lost, even iu experienced hands. Black-eyed. -^ Pecular training of eacla sort. [ 81 ] Tlie age of a bird is at once distinguishable from its phmnage and tbe colour of the legs and beak ; so much so indeed Age of Hawks. ■ , , , • • , i i !■ ^i ^ i. that, to an inexperienced eye, a liawk ot the nrst year (called chuz) would appear of a totally ditierent species from the same bird a year older; (then culled tarenak). Birds of the first year are always the fastest, but they are more liable to be lost than those which have been longer domesticated. All the hawk species moult during spring, while the female is sitting ou her eLTgs ; and are again in full plumage about Moulting. 1 . 1 1 • the time that their young are three parts grown. In a domesticated state, the moulting season (kuriz) commences about March or April, when the birds are usuall}' placed in some quiet retired cool corner of a room, tied by the jesses with about a yard of strong string to a low perch, and within easy reach of a large vessel of water, in which they are ex- ceedingly fond of bathing ; they are fed in the evening, but without being handled or moved. About the 10th or 12tli day, the bird will be found to liave shed the outer feather in each wing ; in G or 8 more the two next feathers will be shed, and so the process (which is much slower in the domesticated bird) goes on till the principal featliers of the wings have been renewed, when the two outer ones of the tail are shed, as soon ab tlie tail is also renewed, all the smaller leathers are thrown off' in handfuls daily. Should the hawk, how- ever, be liandled in the least, or even moved from one corner of the room to another, the moulting stops short for 12 or 14 days at least, and sometimes is not recommenced, so that the bird has to work on for a second season with tlie old feathers. During the moulting, butter is given in considerable quan- tities with the food of the bird. The liiiz and Jurra breed in the loftiest mountains, and are only captured in such localities ; it is said by natives that the Uaunts of hawks. • i i higiier the range from which they are taken, the better will the birds prove. These are considered by the Atfghans as the most valuable of hawk tribes, and fetch when trained, from 40 to 100 Com- pany's Rupees each. The smaller yellow-eyed hawks frequent low hills and the banks of deep precipitous ravines, (known in this country as " alguds)." Charghs build on low mounds in any moderate climate like that of Kandahar, Balkh, &c., &c., while Shahins and Lagars make their nests on the face of precipitous cliffs. The Bahri is only found along the banks of rivulets or near niarslies abound- ing with waterfowl ; and the smaller varieties of the bluck-eyed hawks fre- quent deep ravines and low hills. In Affyhaiiistan, there are four methods usually a^lopted to procure hawks M [ S2 ] for training. First, Charglis and Bahries, inteiuleil fur coursing deer, and Si)aluns are taken from the nest when just ahout Modes of catcliing hawks tOii •, -i i ij ii liii , • " to leave it, and brouijht up by tiand : the lonjrer train. ' ^ f .i > d they are left with their parents the better, provided tliey do not learn to hunt on their own account. 2nd. A net, called a dogazza, made of fine but very strong silk thread (with large open meshes,) ahout 6 feet hy 4 deep, is suspended in a perpen- dicular position on two slender reeds, and a pigeon or some smaller bird is tied by the foot to a peg on the ground in front of and within about a foot and a half or two feet of the bottom of the net, in such a position that it may flutter about and attract the attention of the wild hawk ; the falconer of course concealing himself at some little distance. Tlie hawk stoops at the bird, which is too near the net to admit of her rising again high enough from the ground to avoid it, and the velocity at which she strikes is so great as to carry off the net from the slender reeds, enveloping the hawk under the net ; the falconer instantly rushing up, secures the hawk by thrusting its head for- most into a piece of cloth sewn in the shape of a cone, with just an aperture sufficient to admit of the head passing out at the apex. The bird's eyes are now closed, either b^^ having a hood placed on the head, or more frequently by a thread being passed through each under-eyelid, and the two twisted toge- ther on tlie top of the head, 3rd method. First catch a Jhaggar or Shikra in a dogazza, as above described ; half close his eyes, fasten his beak so that he cannot peck, and then tie a bunch of feathers thickly interspersed with strong horsehair nooses, on to his legs which are tied together. (A bird so prepared is called a " Bairak) ;" as soon as a Cliargh, Bahri, Shahin, or Lagar, is seen coursing in the air, on the look out for game, the falconer seeking shelter in tlie nearest bush, tosses the Bairak up as high as he can into the air ; the Jhaggar thus set free, soars off, while tlie wild hawk, mistaking the feathers on his ieet for a captured bird in his talons, dashes at and seizes them, entangling his own claws in the nooses, and the two birds roll together to the ground, where they are secured. The 4th method is nothing more nor less tlian four dogazzas, set back to back in the form of a square, in the midst of which is pegged down a partridge or chakor. This sort of trap is used exclusively for Bazes and Jurras, and is generally set on some high and open hill ; the nets are, however, much larger in every way than the one 1 have described, though acting on the same principle. The chief points looked to in the selection of hawks besides species and ao-e, are great leiigtli from crown of head to tip of tail, breadth of chest, and extreme sjiaii of talons, with a brigiit clear eye. Besides these, each falconer has his own fanciful ideas of particular spots and shades of colour, [ 8=^ ] but these latter will be fouinl coiitradictecl, in ever}' day's experience, and in each new district. To train Charghs and Bahries to course deer it is necessary to give the food of each bird daily on the stuffed head of a gazol Training. . -^ , " . (Cliikarrah or Ahu Dashti,) tiie crust being placed in the eye-holes and when the young birds can fly they are called to this line; when full grown and obedient, they are shown a young fawn, or kid of the same colour, and if thej seize it, the anintal is killed for them, and a little of the warm blood given to the birds. A greyhound is next set after the fawn, and the hawk flown at it : if the latter strikes, all that is required in the way of training has been accomplished, and the birds may be taken in quest of wild game ; but if not, a few more kids are sacrificed as above, in order to give the hawks confidence ; it is usu.il to train hawks to tl\' in pairs for tliis sort of sport. Tlie greatest care, however, is necessary not to allow these hawks ever to see other falcons flown at birds ; though they may when first brought out, the second ykar, be allowed to kill a hare or two, to get them into wind. The best laleoners in this line, are Turkistanis; Cliarghs cannot, as a rule, kill deer without the assistance of greyhounds ; although there are instances on record of their having done so. Shahins taken from the nest, are always fed on a lure made from the dried wings of the middle sized bustard, " Ubara ;" and when old enough and per- fectly obedient, large fowls and a snared bustard or two are turned down for them to kill ; which finishes their education. These birds are, however, always most useful when trained in pairs, and should be made to soar high before they are fed, for a want of such training makes them low-flighted and spiritless. As soon as a newly captured bird of any other description is brought home, it is laid on the floor and allowed to roll about, being occasionally touched with a stick, until it gives over all attempts to claw and peck ; its eyes are now ojiened, anil a hood put on, the cloth also being opened sufliciently to achnit of the bird's standing up ; jesses or small leather straps, about 18 in- ches long, are fastened, one on each leg just above the claws; and a pair of small bells fixed immediately above the jesses, which completes the dressing of black-eyed hawks ; the yellow-eyed species require a strong silk loop adjusted very loosely round the neck, with an end about 8 or 9 inches long left hanging down the bi'east ; this string is held under the middle finger of the right- hand, to balance the bird while in the act of being thrown off, for there is a great art in casting off all short-flighted hawks so as to give them as good a start as possible ; while the others are merely unhooded and start of their own aeeoid as soon as they see their game. M -1 [ 81. ] In a very short lime, tlie cloth is removed from the body, and the hawk made to sit on the gloved liand. About the second day of its captivity, the hawk will usually take a little food, although some refuse it for three or four days. As a general rule, the sooner a bird feeds and the longer she takes to subdue, the more valuable she will turn out. In training j'ellow-eyed hawks, a small hole is next bored in the hood for the bird to peep through, and daily enlarged ; the hawk is constantly handled, carried about in bazars and crowded places to accustom it to people, and kept awake day and night. For black-eyed hawks the hood is constantly removed and replaced, (at first in the dark and by degrees in day light) for the same purpose. As soon as the bird has become perfectly quiet and tame in hand, a pair of dried wings of the quarry to which it is to be trained, are tied together ; and the food always given on this lure ; the bird being induced to come a short distance (from one hand to the other) for it ; when a greater distance becomes necessary, a long string with a ring in it, to which is attached about 4 feet of strong light string, tied to the jesses of the hawk, is used ; an assistant holding the bird and one end of the long string, while the falconer goes to the other with the food on the lure, calls the hawk ; on the hood being removed, the hawk flies to the lure, while the ring traversing along the string, enables her to reach it where she is fed, this practice is continued for several days ; after which the liawk is kept very hungry, and let fly at large, the lure being now and then shown, to keep her within bounds ; and after a short flight she is fed ; a few days of this practice and the hawk is ready for a " bowli." This is generally a specimen of the quarry the hawk is to hunt hereafter, turned down alive for her to kill, but it the bird cannot be had conveniently, the largest fowls are used as bowlies ; when the hawk has struck it, she is allowed a full meal (the first she has had since she was caught) on the flesh and blood, and after this she is ready for the field. It must be always borne in mind in training hawks, that it is easy to bring any bird to kill small game after she has been broken in to large, but that the reverse is almost impossible. Any of these hawks can be easily tiained to kill small game, such as part- ridges chakor, teal, quail and snipe; but the following is a list of the quarry to which each sort is generally broken in. Eaz for ducks; " ubara," jungal fowl, peafowl, pheasants and liares. Jurra, ducks, pheasants, jungal fowl, and partridges of sorts. Charc^hs to deer, herons, cranes, bustard, ubara, curlew and hares and kites. Bahries, deer, ducks, herons, cranes, ubara, ge< se, curlew and hares. The male of these two last can only kill partridges, plover and rooks. Sliahins in pairs: bustard, ducks, haies, pheasants, jungal Ibwl, partrid"-es, and rooks. Male as above mentioned in the case of Baliri bachas. [ 85 ] A most murderous practice is to take a brace of Slialiins and let tlieni fly over a small jliil covered with ducks, wliile the fowler shoots the ducks on the water ; the hawks will not allow a single duck to leave the water, and tiie la!«t one of the flock ma}' be thus secured provided that care be taken not to shoot one on dry land. If this occurs, the hawks will instantly fasten on the dead bird, and allow the remainder of the ducks to escape. The lagar is chiefly kept for hares, crows, partridges and the like, and the male bird for catehing larger falcons, as I have already shown ; all the smaller Viiricties of hawks are kept for quail and partridges, except the Rezi which is usually trained to hunt in couples and kills larks and small birds after a long chase. For an Englishman to follow this sport enjoyably, the best of trainers and first rate horses are absolutely necessary ; for without the assistance of the first his falcons will never be in trim for long flights, while the want of the latter will invariably lead to the loss of his finest hawks ; for even with all appliances of tlie very best description, it will frequently happen that a strong ubara, or black curlew and a <;oud bahri will so far outstrip the speed of a first rate horse as to get completely out of sight ; and if not Ibund at once, she will soon gorge herself; and when in this state these black-eyed birds will seldom look at a lure or obey anything but the dictates of their own wild natures; althougli one or two rare instances are on record of their having gone home to the spot where they were trained. Colonel Coke, C. 13. had a chargh which got away in the neighbourhood of Nilab, on the left bank of the Judas, and was found again on the top of his residence at Ivohat. The feeding and physicking of hawks, and a knowledge of all their various disorders, is in itself the study of a life-time ; and the latter a subject on which each falconer professes to have, as a matter of course, some vei-y dark secrets ; BO that I cannot pretend to give even an outline of their practice ; suffice it to say that when a yoUow-eyed hawk is tno high in fle.sli, a small dose of white sugar is given as a purgative ; while charghs and black-eyed birds have a pinch of borax tied up in a piece of soft thin flannel, shoved down their throats, which in half an hour, acts as an emetic. But after all the great art in falconry is, so nicely to adjust the feeding of each bird that it shall be in the very highest condition and flesh compatible with hard work and wind ; but at the same time to have it so sharp set with hunger as to be extremely keen after its quarry, and at all times obedient to the call and lure. All hawks must have a certain portion of fur, bones, and feathers given them with their food ; which will be all rolled up into a ball, and thrown out of the mouth some 10 or 12 hours after they have been given ; this ball is called in England, I believe, the casting of a hawk, and in Afighan- [ 86 ] istan " iiaririorali." If tliis process is nut gone tlivougli, the bird soon sickens and dies. A sure sign of poor or improper feeding is a peculiar fine worm-eaten looking line carried across the web of each of the larger feathers of a havvkj which will not disappear till the next moulting season. When a bird is too fat, it will not hunt ; and if too thin ; it cannot do so; in the first instance, the meat is well soaked in water before given to the hawk, and in the latter more flesh mixed with a little blood will soon fatten the bird. Almost the worst accident wliich can happen to a hawk, short of breaking a limb, is to get loose with its hood on ; for it will tlien frequently soar into the air with a peculiar hovering fluttering stroke of the wing, until it is com- pletely lost in the sky ; and at last falls down exhausted to die ; the only chance in such cases being for the falconer, before the bird has got to any great height, to keep striking the palms o( his hands sharply together, the noise of which sometimes attracts the poor bird's notice and brings it down- wards within reach. Should any of the principal feathers of a hawk's wing or tail get broken, from dashing against a bush or on the ground while she is in the act of killing her quarr}^ the feather should be spliced ; and for this purpose all the good feathers thrown ofi' at the time of moulting, or those of a dead hawk, should be carefully preserved in a book or other convenient place, the splice is made by cutting the feather in the bird's wing diagonally across, and adjusting another feather cut exactl}' to fit it ; a needle is then pushed liead liist into the pith of the stump in the hawk's wing, and the portion of the new feather passed down over the point of the needle, till the splice is almost closed ; a little good glue is now painted over both edges of the splice, and the feathers pressed firmly together. If the operation is neatly done, the mended feather is just as useful as the original one, and will last till the moulting season. Natives generally prefer the yellow-eyed hawks, as they are never lost, and give no trouble in following, while they will kill any number of partridges, &e. tliat can be found in a day. But for real sport, there is nothing to equal the chargh or bahri, and deer hawking is the cream of this sort of sport. An Affghan has not the slightest idea of shooting moving objects, nor indeed are the huge cumbrous weapons generally Shooting. . . 11. m use in the country adapted tor such practice ; this class of field-sports is therefore more circumscribed than with us ; deer stalking in the hills is only practiced by the enthusiastic professional shikaris of the mountain ranges, whose whole lives are spent among the haunts of ibex, " maskhore," thar and wild sheej' ; but birdars and men ui' .-ubstance [ 87 ] have neither the physical energy nor perseverance required for such sport, so that the only hill shooting in which they indulge is carried on by " haiikwa." or as it is called here " Jirgha Shikar," and consists in having the shooters placed in some pass or well known run of the game, which is driven towards them by a host of shikaries and other attendants. Ahu Gardani, or deer- ,, ^ . stalking in the open plain, however, is a very Ahu Gardani. /. • favourite amusement of the sirdars, and is con- ducted in the following manner. Three or four sportsmen, with their attendants, resort to the sandy open plains where ravine deer abound, and the shooters having scattered out to the distance of about two gun-shots from each other, lie down flat on the ground, the flatter the better. The shikaries and attendants move off in quest of a herd of deer, and endeavour by keeping at a very long distance from them, not to frighten the animals, but by cautious and exceedingly quiet approaches, to make them quietly browse towards the shooters ; and generally (9 times out of 10) succeed so well that standing shots are made at from 40 to 80 yards, seldom over the latter distance. Practice on the part of the shikaries and attendants, together witii extreme patience in the shooters, is all that is required to secure ten or a dozen deer a day in this way ; but it is at best but nutive sport. Wild hog are mobbed with dogs, cut down with talwars, shot, and in fact murdered in every possible way, the poor aniijial never being allowed the slightest chance for his life. As for spearing a boar in the open plain, an Affghan cannot see the fun of such sport, but on the contrary considers the whole proceeding as a tempting of Providence and an unnecessary exposure of both men and horses. Wild fowl shooting is practised by almost every person in the Kohistan, at Cabul, and in the Kandahar district ; the usual Wild fowl shooting. • - i -i i mode 01 proceeding is to bund a small hut with loopholed walls on the margin of some jhil or pond of water, and at about some twenty yards from it a whole flock of stuffed ducks of all sorts is placed out on the water to attract passing birds ; these decoy-ducks, or " bhiits" as they are called, are merely the skins of ducks stufi'ed with a little straw, and fastened on the top of a stick which is pushed into the soft mud at the bottom of the jhil till the bird ajipears to float naturally on the water ; whole flocks of ducks are thus allured down and shot ; on a good day, altt-r a shower of rain, a single Affghan will frequently secure 40 or 50 ducks, Tlie wings of cranes are also stretched on a stick, and placed standing separately and upright in the water, and attract passing flocks of cranes from almost incredible dis- tances. All the common modes of taking wild fowl practiced in Hindustan are also resorted to here, but do not require explanation ; a novel method b [ 88 ] liowever, wliicli I have not heard of elsewhere, is adopted in the Kohistan. An artificial tank is formed by damming up some small stream or rill, and a small hut built at a sluice gate made in the dam, through the middle of which the cut carrying off the water is carried ; a few decoy or tame ducks are placed on the pond, and wild fowl allowed to visit the spot unmolested for several days, till they get quite accustomed to all around them ; the fowler now gets into the hut, and remains perfectly quiet till he sees a large flock of ducks sleeping on the water, he then opens the sluice gate and the water gently running out floats down the ducks quietly into the liouse by ones and twos, where tliey are secured without those outside being any the wiser. I am told that two men will thus capture over a hundred ducks in 24< hours ; sometimes the middle of the day is best for this sort of wliolesale murder, and at others night. The chakor and liessil are shot in flocks at springs in the hills, during the hot season, and from behind a sort of shield made of two sticks tied across each other and covered with cloth dyed a dirty yellow colour, having black eyes painted all over it ; this strange object so astonishes the birds that they all huddle into a small space, and by degrees approach closer and closer till they arrive within easy range, and are knocked over six and seven at a shot. Another form of this screen is made of two short sticks stuck into the sportsmen's turban, with a piece of the same sort of yellow cloth fastened between them, and allowed to hang down well over the face like a mask, having two holes to peep through. The man's body is hid behind a rock and tliis strange face presented to the birds while they are at some considerable distance oft', which makes them pack close and come up to be shot, as in the last instance, but both these methods of killing birds are most strongly con- demned by all orthodox Muhammadans, who say that the poor birds mistake the rags covered with eyes, for the face of the great prophet, and come up to pay their respects ; and that all those which are killed under such circumstances, become martyrs ; this is but a poor compliment to the personal appearance of the arch imposter, but what will Muhammadan faith stick at ? Shikariea with less theological ideas call the mask a " gedari." Quails are usually netted, first by a net being thrown over a corner of a corn field, and two poles on which are huncr Netting. . => several cages with calling quail in them being stuck up immediately behind the net ; this arrangement is usually made very early in the morning, and when the sun is up, a long rope is stretched across the other end of the field by two persona, who work it backwards and for- wards, so as to make a gentle rustling sound, and gradually carried forwards towards the net ; when close to the latter, the fowlers rusli up and secure tlie quails which have been driven under the net, hundreds are thus caught of a morning in the height of the season. [ 89 ] The second method, also a most successful one, is for several men to carry the net over the fields ; two men holding the corners of the net ui front, and keeping it up by stretching, while the remainder of the party form a lino along the back of tlie net and act as beaters ; when a quail is put up under the net, all let go and the bird is at once secured ; this is more generally practised in the evening. Another form of net is called a dogazza, and consists of a triangular piece of net stretched between two long and strong reeds, which is carried b}' a single individual before him, through the fields and secures a quail as it rises. The dogs of Affghanistan, used for sporting purposes are of three sorts, the greyhound, pointer and " khundi." The first are not famed for speed, and would have little chance in a fair course with a second rate English dog, but they are said to liave some endurance, and when trained are used to assist charghs in catching deer, to mob wild hog, and to course hares, foxes, &c., &c. AlVghans, however, run every thing to kill ; and it is not an uncommon sight to see half a dozen of these dogs after a single hare. The pointers are obtained from the hills in the Jalalabad district, and the Kohistan ; they are large, heavy, slow hunting, but very line-nosed animals, and staunch to a fault, their heads are heavy and very square, and altogetlu-r the dog reminds one very strongly of the old double-nosed Spanish pointer. " Khundis," are the most useful, and at the same time the most cross- bred animals in the country ; they have an undoubted cross of the pointer in them, but the rest of their parentage is beyond conjecture ; but fur working out game from thick cover, there is no breed of dog that I have ever seen like tiicm. The training of a " khundi" commences from the day tliat it can eat meat ; small pieces of flesh are roasted and trailed along the ground in every direction, and at last thrust under thick bushes of thorns and buried in holes; the J'oung " khundi" is then called, and has to hunt up each separate morsel of its food ; this sort of practice every day makes them most deter- mined hunters, and accustoms them to work their way through the thickest bushes ; they are chiefly used for turning up quail, and partridges to hawks ; and it is a beautiful sight to see a good khundi work out a black partridge, which has been frightened by a hawk, from the middle of a tliick vinej^ard ; and their endurance is such that they can work through the whole of a hot day without showing the slightest signs of fatigue. Afi*ghan sirdars have of late taken a great fancy to English dogs of every description, and frequently amuse themselves baiting jackalls, badgers, &c. with animals which they call " sag-i-tiger," but which are really nothing more or loss than the various crosses of the bull dog which are always to be N [ ^0 ] found about the barracks of any European Regiment. These sirdars however will never have a good breed of dogs as they do not take the slightest trouble about them, but allow all to cross just as it may happen. Were it not for this carelessness, the climate of Affghanistan is so exceedingly favourable to the developement of the canine race, that I am quite confident, dogs equal to the best imported English, could be bred from really good stock with the most ordinary care. Wolves, jackalls, foxes, and vermin of all sorts are hunted and trapped for their skins, which are made up into clothing for the cold season ; but this is more in the way of trade than sport. Wolves are taken in deep trenches cut in the form of a circle, leaving a large island, as it were, in the middle on which the carcass of some dead animal is placed as a bait. These trenches are about 10 feet deep, four feet wide at top, and not more than one and a half at bottom. Tlie wolf naturally drops into the trench instead of taking it at a bound, and when once in, it continues to run round and round the circle, but owing to the narrowness of the trench, has not a chance of working his way up the bank. The wolves during winter pack together, and while the snow is on the ground are so sharp set with hunger, that they frequently attack single travel- lers on the main roads or even horsemen. In conclusion I may remark that Affghanistan affords a splendid field to its native sportsmen, for on its mountains are to be found maskhore, ibex, thar, wild sheep, and most of the deer common to the Himalaya ranges ; while in the plains, ravine deer, " yews," a species of leopard, wild hog, and black lynx, together with ducks, woodcock, partridges, &c., &c. are most abundant ; but the people of the country are so extremely bigoted and jealous of foreigners, that a stranger in these countries runs a much greater chance of being stalked himself than of stalking any thing worth the trouble of taking home. APPENDIX E. Traders and Trade of Western Ajf'tjhanistan. Undee tills head I propose to give a sketch of the commercial classes of Western All'ghaiiistan, soaie of the routes frequented by them, and the chief articles of trade which may not be found in Doctor Bellew's report on the products of the country ; and may commence with TUE POVINDIAU AfFGHANS. Although the disturbed state of Atfghanistan has, during the past century, been unfavorable to the development of commerce, yet we know that at one time large and valuable caravans used to carry the products of llindu.stai), the Panjab and Cashmir to Cabul, Herat, Persia and Turkey ; and that although at the present day the products of these countries flow through very different channels to far remoter regions, still in Khorasan (by which name traders almost invariably style the greater part of Atfghanistan and Persia) are to be found mercantile races called Povindiahs, whose lives are spent in caravan journies, carrying on the traffic between Hindustan, Khorasan and liokhara, by means of their droves of camels and ponies. The^e Povindiahs are pastoral, and migratory in their mode of life; during the autumn months, they proceed down the Guleri, or Zadi passes; and leaving tlicir families to graze the spare cattle in tlie Dcrajat, a portion of th^ tribe goes on with goods to Delhi, Cawnpore, Sic. and arranges so as to be back about the commencement of March, when the clans again pick up their (ami- lies and worldly goods and move up the passes to the Ghazni and Khilat-i- Ghilzi district, sending on caravans to Cabul, Bokhara, Kandahar, and Herat (the Kharoti division carry on most of the trade with the latter place ;) the whole returning in time to accompany the tribe down the passes again. This move is effected in three divisions, proceeding invariably at stated in- tervals ; and the respective migrations bear the names of Myakhel, Nasar and Kharoti, after the branches of the tribe composing them. The Povindiahs are divided into four clans ; Lehwani or Lohani, IS'asar, Neazis and Kliarotis. The LoiiANiES are again subdivided into three branches: Dowlatkhel, Panui and Myakhel ; but the two lirst now no longer carry on the mercau- N 2 [ ^2 1 tile pursuits of their ancestors, having settled clown as agriculturists ; the IJovvlatkhel on tlie lands of Tak, in the Derajat, with Sirbulaud Khan (Kattikhel) at their head ; and tlie Panni (a much smaller division) ahout Thall and Sutliali ; these latter are gradually mixing with the Tarins of that part of the country. The Myakhel (vith the exception of the Musazai faction, numbering some 400 families under Mir Alam Khan in Deaband,) live entirely in camps ; are wealthy traders, and for the convenience of pasturing their flocks, divide themselves into 12 khels or encampments mustering about 1010 families in all. Khels. Present chiefs. Tents. Warake Killa, Alladad Khan, 100 Umarzai, Din Muhammad Khan, 70 TJraarzai, Eozi Khan, 80 Panni, Attal, 80 Pasinni, Kattar Khan, 90 Belochkhel, Palak Khan, 100 33eloehkhel, Sher Muhammad Khan, SO Bakhtyar, Feroz Khan, 90 Bakhtyar, Lai Khan, 100 Xiuni Mahi Khan, 50 Luni, Ali Muhammad Khan, ,,.., 80 Myani, Amir Khan, 90 These Lohanies pay six hundred Rupees annual tribute to the Amir, (being at the rate of Rupees 50 per khel) for the privilege of grazing their Hocks and herds in the Ghazni district during the summer months ; this is of course exclusive of import and transit duties on goods brought up as mer- chandize. Many Povindiahs are wholesale merchants trading on their own account, while others are mere carriers or small dealers ; the latter frequently take goods for retail sale, on credit from their more wealthy brethren, running all chances of profit or loss, and paying at the rate of 12^ per cent, per annum on the value of the goods. Tlie Povindiahs carry goods from Dera Ismail Khan to Cabul or Kandahar, at from 15 to 25 Rupees a camel load, the cost depending on the supply of cattle on the spot and the losses of each caravan while on the journey. From Ghazni to Kandahar, 9 Rupees are charged for every 6 maunds. Cabul, 3 Cabul to Peshawar, 12 ; the extra charge on this line of road is owing to the danger in the Khybar and Tartarra passes. TuE Nasks arc the strongest of the Povindiah clans, and their chief [ 93 ] Shahzad Khan is acknowledged as the head of the whole fraternity ; they number about 1S50 families, divided into encampments as follows. KheU. Present cJiiefs. Tents. Jalalkhel, Mallik Shahzad Khan, 200 Barkhel, Sirfaraz Khan, 100 Alam Begkhel, MajidKhan, 70 Chalakkhel, Shekh Khan, 80 Bannukhel, Eamzan Khan, 100 Yahiyakhel, Kasim Khan, SO Zangikhel, Shumsh-ud-din Khan, 150 Kamalkhel, Nur-ud-din Khan, 200 Kamalkhel, Khaddar Khan, 50 Ushkliel, Lashkar Khan, 200 Daudkliel, Sladdat Khan, 250 Musizai, Bakshl Khan, 100 Musizai, Adam Khan, GO Sarukhelli, Daud Khan, GO Is^yamatkhel, Shahzad Khan, 70 Nyamatkhel, Syad JNlii- Khan, 80 These Nasrs pay three thousand rupees annually to Mir Alam Khan, the head of the Turan Ghilzis, at Murgha, for the right of pasturage ; this sum they divide over encampments according to the number of camels, cattle, sheep and goats, belonging to each. The poorer members of this clan who possess not more than half a dozen camels each, club together and carry on a trade in salt, which they bring from the Bahadurkhel mines to Ghazni, or the Khilat-i-Ghilzi districts, and barter it against grain, receiving three or lour loads of the latter for every one of salt, according to the market value of the mineral on the spot at the time. Some of the Bokhara trade is in the liands of the Nasrs, but lilie other Povindiahs, they generally prefer that of Hindustan which is more profitable and safer. The chief wealth of the Nasrs (excepting those located in Guraal and the Kundar darrahs) is invested in trade and cattle ; they formerly, in common with other Bovindiahs, possessed considerable lands on the Gumal, most of which have been gradually taken from them, year by year, by the Waziris, with whom they have a deadly feud ; and in their annual migrations down the passes they are obliged to combine their strength and force their way down against that tribe ; this however they have hitherto invariably contrived to eflect. The Neazies numbRr about 600 families, divided into four khels. [ 94 ] Kheh. Present chiefs. Tents. Manrezkhe], Mullah Ashak, 150 Nur Khan khel, Mullah All Muhammad, 200 Musandkhel, Mullah Ahmad Khau, 160 Alikhel, Mullah Sjad Nur Muhammad, 80 The remainder of this clan, located, (as is already well known) in the vici- nity of ilsankhel, on the Indus, are our own subjects ; and belong to the agricultural class. The Khaeoties are divided into Seven trading factions . Khels. Present cliiefs. Tents, Ahmadkhel, Muhammad, , 300 Ditto, Piru Khan, 200 Ditto, Hikmat, 200 Yahkhel, Gannu Khan, 200 Pasanni, Ganda Khan, 250 Hadyakhel, Maswat Kluin, 300 Narzik, Tur Khan, 50 Besides a few families residinar in Cabul. Total, 1500 Tioo slieplierd divisions. Marakzai, Suhuman, Kehrmeh, Malin, Nur Muhammad Khan, 100 Kokalzai, Nasr Khau, 400 These border on the Jaddran country, 500 Eleven Agricidtural divisions. Khels. Present chiefs. District. Houses. Umarkhel, Zarin, Shekh Muhammad, Kamal Khan and Kasul Khan, Uspunna, 140 Saindkhel, Sirdar Khan, , Guraal, 50 Ditto, Muhammad Yar, Ditto, 30 Yahkhel, Yar Muhammad, Ditto, 80 Hybatkhel, Sahib Khan and Daud Khan, Ditto, 30 Zakukhel, Marwat Khan, Bablkhel, 40 Surabikhel, Sirurer Syad and Muhammad, Sarobi, 100 Yazi, Syad Khan, Yazil, 30 Langikhel, Sahibdad, Sarobali ]S^allah,-^ Yuzarkhel, Mazzeh, Ditto, ^500 Tunikhel, Janneh, Ditto, 3 Total, 1,000 [ 95 ] The Sulaimanzai Povincliahs are all fakirs, wandering'about from encamp- ment to village, and living on the industry of their neighbours ; they muster some five hundred souls. The Kharoties, like their neighbours the Jaddrans, are perfectly independent excepting those residing in Saroba and Sinowzi, which are subject to tlie ruler of Zurmat ; and pay, the former 140 Rupees, and the latter |210 Rupees annual revenue. This tribe must not be confounded witb the Kharoti Ghilzies which are perfectly distinct and quite a different race. The Guliri pass traversed by these tribes in their annual migrations, has already been described by an otiJcer from per- Koutes. , , . , . , , ^ , sonal observation, which must be far better than any sketch which I could offer from native information ; but the following routes (also used by them) from Kandahar, Khilat-i-Ghilzi, and Mukar by the tract known as the llali-i-Maruf, may be useful ; the merchants proceeding by it from Kandahar have first to pay Rupees 2-10 per camel to Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan at Cabul, besides G annas to Mir Alam Khan, the head of the Utak Ghilzies at his fort at Margha. All Hindus coming up from Hin- dustan by this route are taxed according to the circumstances of each, one man paying 10 Rupees wliile a poorer person gets off by [laying 4 Rupees. From Kandahar to KiLLA Mom. VXD, 6 koss over the Kandahar plain ; the water here is from springs, but brackisli ; a little cultivation in the neighbourhood. Taiinak, G koss, over a sandy plain ; encamping ground on the bank of the Tarnak river, from which water is procured. WiLOAl, 5 koss. In this day's march a small kothal had to be crossed no provisions procurable here, and water only from springs. Jandae, Madat Khan, 5 koss. A village in the midst of a well cultivated tract on the banks of the Arghusan. Road good. LoBA, 6 koss. Road along the bed of the Arghasan ; here also are villa^'es and cultivation and Lora itself is situated at the junction of a stream coming- down from above Mukar, with the Arghusan. SuRGHAZ KoTUAL, G koss. Still up tlie bed of the stream ; the road is broken and rugged ; there are a few small villages in the neighbourhood surrounded by small patches of cultivation ; the country generally mountainous barren ; encamp at the foot of the Kothal. 7tu maech. This, though not a long march in actual measurement, is a most tedious one ; the ascent and descent of the Surghaz mountain has to be accomplished, which takes the greater part of a day. The encampinfi- o-round is at a spring on the far side of the range, just crossed over ; no village, but some tx'ees. [ ^6 ] 8tii march, 6 koss over an undulating broken country, gradually de- scending down again to the bed of the Arghusan, on the bank of which is the spot for encamping. SniEKZAi, G koss, over a country undulating and hilly, though the banks of the Arghusan are here and there cultivated, and have a good sprinkling of villages. Katt, 6 koss, same sort of road as yesterday. llTn MARCH, to a Ghilzie encampment near some springs. The road leaves the bed of the Arghusan and crosses the Ghwanza Kothal, which is neither high nor difficult ; this is the last halting place in the Kandahar district. SuRKHEL, 7 koss. A village belonging to the Tochi Ghilzies ; country tolerable well cultivated, water brackish from springs. Sturanisa, 7 koss, over an undulating plain ; no cultivation ; villages deserted ; water procurable from wells ; this spot belongs to the Tochi Ghilzies. KiRSHTJTU KE KiiLA, G coss ; road good, country level, but only inhabited by wandering Babars ; water from karezahs. ToPAN, G koss, over a plain ; here is one well but no cultivation. The country belongs to Babars. LowANA KA REz, 7 koss, ovcr a plain ; Lowaua is a small village surrounded by cultivation. GuRABi DARRAH, G koss ; halting-ground at the entrance to the pass, "Water procured by digging in the bed of a ravine where it is always to be found close to the surface. Lari, 6 koss ; the name of a plain where kaffilahs usually encamp ; it is occupied by a poor and inoffensive tribe of Kakars. E-oad through a long durrah flanked by low hills. Water from springs. TRiicnanAZ, 7 koss. This place consists of 30 or 40 houses of the Jhuni- rlan tribe. It was in the days of the Mogluil Empire, famous for the manu- facture of weighing scales : made of raw hides ; and although this trade has almost disappeared, yet the manufacture still exists. Country hilly and barren. MuKHAL ; an encamping ground G koss from the last; road passing through a long defile ; water procured from a small stream, a tributary of the Gumal. From this spot three darrahs open out: the Jhob ; Kundar and Gumal. The Kakars hold Jhob, while the Khoraties, Appezies, Mundakhel, Sheranis and Waziris, are to be found in the other two. Mamukhani, 8 koss, a long and tiresome march ; for five koss through a narrow defile, commanded by lofty heights ; the path then debouches on the Mamukhani plain, occupied by Muudukhel and Nasrs. [ ^'" ] KnuRKUUNDi, C kos3 ; here are a few villages in the midst of cultivation belonging to Mundukhels and Nasrs. Eoad generally through a hilly coun- try along the bed of the Kundar stream. GusTA, G koss ; still along the bed of the stream ; this spot which is only an encamping ground without houses belongs to the Mundukhel, described as a pastoral race in alliance with the Nasrs, and generally able to defend their own ; they never molest caravans passing through their country. HusETN NiKA, 7 koss ; a halting-place at the Ziarat of Husein, where the Kholdadkhel and other Sulaimankhel Ghilzies come down to trade and barter with the Lahanies. lload as in yesterday's march. From here two roads strike off, one to Guliri and the other to Zao. Damaxda-K, 7 koss ; a halting-place watered from a spring, on the water- shed line between the Kundar and Gomal streams ; this day's march is a difficult one, through a rugged darrah, at the end of which a high kothal has to be ascended. Kanzue. The first halting-place in the Waziri country, on the banks of the Gomal. Caravans are frequently attacked by the Waziris in all the route through their portion of the country where there are no villages, but only well known halting-places, named as here shown. The road in to-day'd march is down a steep descent and then along the bed of the Gouuil river. HaNMTAJ, 7 koss ; along the bed of the Gonial. KoTGHi, 7 Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Kiekanni, 9 koss, along the bed of the Gomal. 2 koss from Kotghi is the Tol darrah, a narrow but well cultivated glen, inlialiited by TaCtani Povindiahs who are on friendly terms with the Waziris ; but the remainder of this day's march is notoriously subject to Waziri raids. GuLliiI, 1-i koss. Leaving the bed of the Gomal and crossing a very diffi- cult kothal. Water is scarce at this stage. Mashkanni, 10 koss, through low barren hills ; water from a brackish spring. ZEBNAElKAn, 8 koss. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Manjigaeh, 9 koss; at the ith coss the road passes out of the hills and crosses to this village in British territory. Caravans from Khilat-i-Ghilzie pay a tax of Rupees 2-8 to the ruler of that district before starting, and a further sum of llupees 1-10 to Mir Alara Khan and take tlie following route. Mullahhad Akhun, 7 koss. Water from a karez : country tolerably culti- vated, with occasional gardens ; inhabited by Utak Ghilzies, and the road crossing the Tarmak stream, traverses a succession of small darrahs. (J [ ^s ] Baghat, 7 koas. Road over a plain : water from a karez ; here are numerous almond gardens, and the country generally is well cultivated. Peshi. a Glulzie halting-place, at the foot of a kothal, and a spring. On the summit of tliis hill is a tower where the Ghilzie transit duty is collecti'd. Chaoni, 8 koss. Road bad, and country broken and hilly ; two kothals have to be crossed. Chaoni is the head-quarters of Mir Alam Khan, already mentioned as ^the chief of the Utak Giiilzies. Water from a karez and springs : country in the immediate vicinity, cultivated. KiiANAN, 6 koss. An old Ghilzie fort : road good over a level country ; and water from springs. LoRGiiAi, 6 koss. Road tolerable ; this village is on the boundary line between the Utak and Tochi Ghilzies, country undulating. At Lorghai are numer- ous karezas and a stream. MuEGiiA, 8 koss, over a plain ; some cultivation, water from springs and karezas. Dabwaza, 7 koss ; a Ghilzie encamping-ground where there are numerous springs. SiuGAEl, 5 koss ; over a plain. Water abundant. Kassasa, 6 koss, road through low hills ; halting-place at some springs on neutral ground between the Kakars, Mundukhel and Tochi Ghilzie tribes. Chismuni, 8 koss ; in this march a small kothal has to be crossed ; remainder of the road over an undulating country. Chisumni is a valley with several small villages scattered over it, inhabited by Dhawi Ghilzies. Water plentiful. Topan, already mentioned as the 15th stage in the Rah-i-Maruf from Kandahar, The third branch of this road joins in from JVTukar. Caravans proceeding by it, have to pay 5 Cabuli Rupees to the Ghilzies as transit duty. The stages irom Mukar are : — Ghilan, G koss, through the villages and cultivation of the Taraki Ghilzies. DnA:ND, 6 koss, road good. Country cultivated and water from karezas. Wastazi, 6 koss, over a plain country as yesterday. At this place the water of numerous karezas, all brackish, disappears in the soil. Utkan, 7 koss ; road through a narrow darrah, country undulating, hilly and but partially cultivated. Water brackish from wells. KiLLA Khan, 8 koss, country sprinkled with Taraki villages, and culti- vation : water abundant. Taezae ka Sir, 6 koss ; road along a darrah for the greater part of the distance ; after coming out of which, arrive at an open spot of the above name containing a few Taraki vilhiges. [ 99 ] Zangalla, 8 koss ; one low kothal has to be crossed in to-tlay's march, known as the ZangaUa ; the Tarakies of this place are all shepherds and have little or no cultivation. Shahduk, 8 koss ; a difficult kothal has to be crossed in this march ; country mountainous. Water from springs : no cultivation to be seen. Spedae, 7 koss ; this is the name of a halting-place, without inhabitants ; water from springs ; country rugged ; and several very difficult ascents and descents to be got over during this march ; this spot is the limit of the Ta- raki Ghilzie country in this direction. MuLiiAH MiTAK ZiAEAT, 8 koss ; tlus also is merely an encamping-ground, in the country of the Jumiani Ghilzies ; water from a spring ; country much the same as in last march ; road through a dilficult pass. BozA, 9 koss, over a comparative plain. At the halting-place is a brackish spring, but no inhabitants, but the Sulaimankhel village of Nasrs is only two koss off to the northward. LuRMUEGUA, 8 koss, an encampment of Taraki shepherds, near a spring ; the road generally good witli the exception of one small kothal. Guj:)AWAnnaii, 8 koss; tliis is a small place belonging to a colony of some 1500 Lohwauies, who are generally engaged in the salt trade ; considerable quantities of salt are excavated here, and exported to AHghanistan ; the water at this stage is brackish in the extreme ; there is a low kothal in this day's march, but owing to its broken and angular surface it is ditlicult for camels. Laei, 6 ko«s, already mentioned as the 18th march on the Kah-i-Maruf route from Kandahar. 'Jhese routes are often taken by the Povindiulis iu preference Lo the more beaten tracks on account of the abundance of forage for cuttle and camels, which is often scarce elsewhere. In the Kandahar district, the chief merchants are either Hindus, Sliikar- puries or Persians ; of the lirst there are 350 Kandahar trade. i . •* i • ■ -i • shops belonging to Uttaraillii,l)akliini and Ivbatri castes, and 190 houses of Sbikarpuries and others. The Hindus are all cloth- sellers, spice-dealers and shroffs. Tlie Shikarpuries are cloth-sellers, general fruit-dealers and agents for large firms in Shikarpur (who have transactions with most of the large cities iu A.^ia ;) in their hands are all the exchange transactions, and much of the wool trade, which is daily growing into greater importance in this part of the country. Tiie following are a few particulars regarding this trade. At Birgand, Hazara, Herat and Kandahar, when advances are made to the nomads on the future crop, the [■rice on the spot is about I'J Co.'s annas per Kandahari maund of 4 Co.'s o 2 [ 100 ] seers ; but if purchased at the time of shearing, it costs Rupees 1-4 for the same weight- and if taken on credit Rupees 1-8. A load of 48 maunds Kandahari, or 192 Co.'s seers, is carried to Kandahar from any of the other districts ahovementioned for Co.'s Rupees 12-8 ; and from this point to Kurraehi for the same sum. The reduced rate for the latter distance is account- ed for by the road being better, and, below Dadar, perfectly safe. The go- wiashta or agent proceeding with the investment receives I- of the profits, taking an equivalent share of risk ; but if the arrangement with him is made on the Muharamadan principle (known as Mozaribat) when the agent runs no risk, -i- of the profit is absorbed in his pay. The agents in Kandahar say that the tariff of boat-hire from Kurraehi to Bonabay varies so much, that it is impossible to give even a fair approximation to the expenses of transit, but that the price in Bombay may be put down as 192 Rupees per kundi of 60 Kandahari maunds. Pure white v?ool is the most marketable, but brown and white are frequently mixed. The wool of Birgand and Herat is generally shorn twice a year, and if not exported is manufactured into carpets, b;ila-zins, masnadi, namads and common felts. The fine wool known as kurak is procured from goats in the Herat, Gazak, and Hazara districts. The Birgand and Herat carpets, sold in Hindustan as Persian, are woven in looms by 6 or 8 men at each, much in the same way that caq^ets are usually made in our jails, but of a much finer texture ; and the wool is always dyed before being spun into thread, which is said to make the carpets keep their colour much longer. Carpets are purchased from the manufacturer at 10 Herati Rupees (each 4 Co.'s annas) per square yard, and fetch in Hindustan 10 Company's Rupees. In making masnadi namads, the great art is in having the wool thoroughly carded and cleaned first, and then liijhtlv made Namads or Felts. .' n y ■, - r ^ n o j up mto a sort of half-felt foundation, on which are placed pieces of colored wool of the required pattern anointed with sonp ; the whole is placed on a frame of reeds, and rolled up and out again till the wool is worked thoroughl}'- into one homogenous sheet of the required firm- ness ; the namad is now opened out, and well rubbed under tlie feet ; and lastly after a second coating of soap, the whole is finished by hand-rubbing. Each masnadi namad sells at from 7 to 15 Rupees on the spot. Bala-zins or saddle cloths are made as above, but without figured patterns of any sort, and are of the finest picked wool, or even coarse kurak, and fetch 6 or 7 Rupees each at the manufactory. Kurak is procured from goats by combing thera once a year, with fine iron combs, by which only the [ 101 ] finer parts of the under coat is taken off; this wool is generally used for making warm under-clothing for people of rank, and is worked up like ba- lazins, but in much thinner sheets, being little, if at all, Inferior to pashminahs, selling at from 7 to 20 Eupees each on the spot. The great staple produce of Kandahar is dried fruit; of which apricots, „ grapes and figs are the chief ; of the first, there Dried fruit. ^ ^ ° , ' ' are ten descriptions, namely, surkhah, charmags, kaisai, pasrassi, sadhai, shamshi, phen, murzi, safedcha, pasrassi miranjani and shakarpara. Young trees of any of these descriptions are obtained from the stones of the fruit, which are soaked in a water-pot for about 20 days, or until they germinate, when they are taken out and planted on ridges, and so watered that the moisture may reach the stones without wetting the shoots, which are liable to rot. When these young trees are a year old, they are transferred to the gardens, where they are to remain ; and the following year budded ; they bear in the fourth year, and are said to last from 25 to 30 years. For jaiethod of budding see Doctor Ucllew's report. The pasrassi miranjani and kaisai are the most esteemed. The fruit of the charmags, when perfectly ripe, is split ; the stone taken out, and the two sides stuck together again, and thoroughly dried in the sun on beds of straw ; when ready they are called " khistas" and sell at the rate of 16 Co.'s seers per rupee in Kandahar. Tlie pasrassi miranjani, when thoroughly ripe, is also stoned ; but the kernel is restored, and the fruit dried as above. When ready, they are called " ustak" or khubanies, and fetch in Kandahar a rupee per 12 seers. The other descriptions of apricots are also dried, but the above arc the most approved varieties. Of grapes there are 18 sorts, rocha, kalachanni, khalali ; all early sorts of which, the last mentioned is the most esteemed ; siah, lal, sahibi, kismis- i-safed, husaini, kismis-i-surakh, katta, ita, Shekh AH, Taikhuri, Kalaghuchak Aimi, Kalamak, Khail, Ghalami, askari. The vines are generally pruned about the beginning of March, and cuttings planted for new vines ; these latter are carefully watched, and as soon as the shoots appear, one only is allowed to grow ; the most promising being of course selected ; a vine is only allowed to increase a branch a year, all other shoots being pruned away. They are, in Kandahar, usually planted in a deep trench, the earth from which is generally thrown up on the north side and forms a bank upon which the vines are trained. The principal portion of the gardens surrounding most villages in the Kandahar district, is taken up with vine culture, and the total produce must be enormous. [ 102 ] Bundles of the kismis-i-safed, Avhen perfectly ripe, are cut* and hung each on a separate peg in the drying-house, which is a shed huilt for the pur- pose ; the walls being perforated all over by loopholes from top to bottom to secure a free circulation of air; here they remain for 40 days, and are then talcen down, shaken from the stalks, picked, cleaned, and sent into the market as raisins without seeds, called bedana or kismis-i-sabz, selling at about 16 seers per Co.'s Rupee. The siah, surkh and sometimes the ita, are dried in the sun on beds of straw ; and when ready, become the common kismis or kismis-i-surkh, fetching in the Kandahar market about a rupee for from 24! to 28 seers. The katta and ita, are sometimes dried ; but more frequently pressed for their juice ; for this purpose they are placed in a series of pakka vats three in number ; the first has a course grating at the bottom whicli allows nothing but juice to pass into the second. The grapes when ripe are thrown into this vat, trodden under foot, tlie juice accumulating in the second vat where it is allowed to stand till the sediment subsides ; the clear portion is now drawn off into cauldrons, and well boiled ; after which it is put out into the third vat to cool, and call " doshab," selling at from 12 to 16 seers weight per rupee. The ita, when perfectly ripe, is also treated in the following manner. Five chittaks of slack lime are mixed with one seer of sujji (natram) in a garra of water, well shaken, and allowed to stand for 24 hours ; it is then called tezab. Then 10 maunds (Kandahar) of water are well boiled in a cauldron, and as much tezab as a man can take up in both hands is thrown in. Two bunches of itas are now taken, dij)ped into this hot mixture, stirred about, and quickly withdrawn ; if the grapes be slightly cracked, it is a sign that the mixture is perfect ; but if not, they are again dipped, or a little more tezab added, according to circumstances. Grapes thus treated, and thoroughly dried on straw, are called "abjosh," and sell at from 8 to 10 seers per rupee, most other descriptions of grapes are consumed as fruit, and not dried as raisins. Figs are of two sorts : black and white ; the first are never dried, but tlie latter are picked when perfectly ripe and spread in the sun on beds of straw till neaily dry ; each fig is then separately pinched in the centre, so as to turn in the stalk and opposite end, and then thoroughly dried previous to stringing on long strings ; after which they are sent into the market, fetching a rupee for every 16 seers. Fig trees are propagated from cuttings, but never transplanted. Of pomegranates, there are 5 sorts : panjwai, basn, sherin, tuash, and be- dana ; the first are by far the best, then the basn, &c. The panjawai and bedana are those generally exported. Alu bokharas are of two sorts, black and golden, of which the latter are the [ 103 ] best ; the first when ripe are dried on straw in the sun, and sell at 20 seers [jer rupee. N. B. All alu bokhara trees require to be grafted. The following are the 8 varieties of mulberries found at Kandahar ; parikuk kurma, kalulang, Ibrahimkliani, bedana, patavi, siahtul and danadar ; the most esteemed of which are the parikuk, patavi and bedana ; all are grafted except the danadar. Madder is extensively cultivated in the Ghazni and Kandahar districts, and is said to be a very profitable crop, notwith- Madder. ^ ,. , . , standing that it takes three years to come to maturity, and is even better if left in the ground for a fourth. The green tops are generally eaten down by sheep till the last year, when the plant is allowed to ripen. The bones of all sheep so fed are said to be coloured, but the flesh is not in any way affected. The following is a list of prices in the Kandahar market of articles imported from various quarters. From Bombay. Imj)ort$. Prices. I^^amcs of articles. JProm to Long cloths, per piece, 7 8 6 8 Ditto unbleached,) 4 8 3 Madapollains (white,) ' 9 GO Alwuu (shawl stuffs) (red,) 10 8 Ditto (orange,) 5) 5 Ditto (green,) J) 5 Ditto (white,) 8 5 8 Khasa, 3 2 Jaconet (grey,) 3 18 Ditto (white,) 3 8 2 8 Dimity (white,) 4 3 Ditto (rose,) 7 12 Flowered muslins (ali colour,) 3 8 18 Coloured muslins, 3 8 19 Net, peryard, 10 7 Drill (white,) per piece, 10 7 Flowered muslins (golden.) per piece, 6 3 Velvet (black,) peryard, 12 8 Ditto, (red,) Ditto,... 112 10 Majut(?), (Imported,) Ditto,... 7 8 5 Broadcloth, Ditto,... 7 8 5 Chintz Scarlet, (red,) apiece, 12 8 8 Ditto Ditto (black,) a piece, 8 6 2 [ 104 ] Chintz (Scarlet and rose Coloured,) apiece, 5 3 Ditto Ditto (white), apiece, 8 5 Chintz black and other colours, apiece, 5 8 5 Ditto Shakar kouz (a colour,) apiece, 9 GO Khasa scarlet, , apiece, 5 3 8 Shawls, each, 6 4 8 Merino, per yard, 2 13 Molasses, per seer, 8 Sugar, per 3^ seers, 3 2 8 Black pepper, Ditto,... 2 Sal Ammoniac, Ditto,... 2 Cloves, Ditto,... 2 8 Green and black teas, Ditto,... 20 12 Turmeric, Ditto,... 2 Dry ginger. Ditto,... 2 Preserved ginger, per jar, 4 8 3 Orpiment (yellow,) per 3| seers, 2 Ditto (black,) Ditto,... 2 Cinnamon, Ditto,... 4 Cardamums (small,) Ditto,... 3 Ditto (large,) • Ditto,... 3 8 Thread (per bundle,) 6 Cocoanuts, per 3|^ seers, 3 Satin, per yard, 2 8 Flannel, Ditto,... 10 Russian satin, Ditto,... 18 Cambric, per piece, 5 3 Penknives two bladed 1-8 ; one blade 1 : large sailor's knives 4as. ; quantities of pottery ware of all descriptions are imported, as also needles and thread, and a few English medicines, which however kill many more than they cure ; for being administered by a native hakim who knows nothing of their properties, but tries the effect of the first which may be at hand, and regulates the quan- tity given by the price. N. B. The pieces of cloth above alluded to are of all sizes 40, 31, and 29 yards, and the Affghau gaz (or yard) is 3-3- English feet. The following are the Kandahari weights : A Kandahari seer weighs, Co.'s Rupees, 8 A Charak is 10 seers, or , „ ^ 80 4 CharaTcs are one maund. 1 Miskal is 4| masha. 1 Masha is 8 Euttis. Py ■ices From to 2 4 1 S [ 105 ] Coins. 6 Cabuli rupees, 5 Co.'s Kupees. 1 Kandahar rupee, I „ 12 Shalii make 1 rupee Kandahar. 6 Piee Kandahar or 4 Company's piee, 1 Shahi. 2 Shahies Kandahari, 1 miskal. 4 Shahies Kandahari, 1 abhassi. The whole of tlie copper coinage is called in every two or three months, at the will of the ruler of Kandahar (who regulates the value of the shahi and usually brings them dow'u to half price for a few days before they are called in,) and taken at half price, stamped and re-issued at tlieir full value. All which remain in the market of the old supply (unstamped) are called ghaz. Impobts moji Amuitsau. Names of articles. Pashmina shawls according to quality, Molasses per Kandahar maund, Turmeric, Punjabi shoes, Penholders, Luugiis, cloth, Cashmir shawls, Pattu Caslimiii, zinc, saffron, Caslimiri 1(J Rupees a Kandaliari mauud and Peshawar Lungics. Fkom iMULTAN. Ptough cloth, per lUO yards,... 9 Colored sheets for women, 20 ditto, ]7 U Chintz, Nasrkhani, 2l) pieces or lOU ditto, ... 20 U Ditto Lalgurie, iJitto ditto, ... S Alacha, -lyaids,... 1 13ulia!oe's hides, cured, , 20 (iO (Joats, 20 17 Shoes according to (juality, PjtOM POKIIAK.V. liussian gold lace, per tola, 2 Pokhara silk, per Kandahar maund, 35 Labani, ... Ditto Ditto, 25 Kokani, ... Ditto Ditto, 25 Gardanzi,.. Ditto iJitto, 33 8 J>okhara Tomujabiii, ... Ditto, 2 8 G(dd lace (imitation,) .. l)er yard,... 4 ^ Gulbadau (a silk cloth,) Ditto,... 1 Kanawez, Ditto Ditto,... 3 Postius (fox ^kin.) each, ... 20 2 a [ 106 ] Postlns (rat skill,) eacli, .. 25 Sinjiif Postins, each, ...40 Sinabands and Postins Samui-i, 600 100 Choghas (Alghani,) 5U Russian boxes of all sorts and prices, From Masiiad and Khoeassan. Naishapur Terozes (Turquoises,) at all prices, Opium (Gunabad) per Kandahar niaund, 35 "Ditto (^ezd,) Ditto 45 Kanawez, per yard,... 18 P Silk lungies, each,... 9 Ditto (Yezd,) 5 llazaies from Yezd, 3 Silk handkerchiefs, (black,) 4 Didghar skins, 15 Bala-zins, 20 10 Black booti^, a pair,... 8 7 Abrak (rahdar,) each, ... 280 Abrak (Mat^hadi, each, ... 50 15 Ditto Kirniani, each,.,. 9 Pittu, 12 Besides the above Mashadi double-barrelled guns, pistols, and swords, choghas, namdas, sinabands of Kurk, white and grey drills, and chintz of all sorts and prices. Fkom Cabul. Postins, each,.. Sinabands, 10 Pditu, 30 Pice, per Kandahar maund,.. Walnuts, Ditto, ... Ditto,., Cabul Molasses, Ditto, ... Ditto,.. Besides the above, Lungies, Barrak, and Janab, FiiOM Akardarkaii, From this district are brought the famous pomegranates, which are perhaps the finest in the world, as also asafoetida ; this trade is chiefly in the hands of the Tajaks and Kakars. The Tajaks of Anardarrah are all under Mir Muhammad, Ahmed Klian, and Syad Musa of their ovvn clan, who are respectively at the head of 800, 200 and 200 families. The lands of these Tajaks are all laid out in fruit gardens, producing jujubes, pomegranates and figs, the value of which may be estimated 5 3 15 1 12 8 1 [ 107 J from the fact of the tribe paying 12,000 Herati rupees (Rupees 3,000) to the governor of the province annually. Almost the whole of their produce is ex- ported. The low ranges adjacent to the Anardarrah hasin are the great asafcetida producing tracts : during the t])ree hottest months in tlie year, numbers of Kakars resort there to collect that gum. All parties, previous to proceeding to the ground, are obliged to find security to the governor of the province for the payment of 6 Rupees privilege duty per head and have to pay a further tax of 3 annas per maund upon the asafcetida collected. The following articles exported, cost in Kandahar. EXPOHTS. Almonds, per Kandahar maund, 10 Mashad and Herat silk (chatta,) Ditto, JO (Twela,) Ditto, 35 (Tuni,) Ditto, 30 Anab (jujube fruit,) Ditto 10 Zerisk (a berry from Herat,) 18 Safron from Birgand, 90 IG And dried fruits of all sorts in large quantities. The import duties exacted at Kandahar vary exceedingly, and should any articles be brought which the Sirdar fancies, tliey are taken as his share of these dues ; it is therefore exceedingly difficult to procure anything like a correct tarif, but from 5 to 10 per cent, on the value of the goods may be assumed as about the charge. On wheat, barley, atta, and rice, 2 annas per donkey load, or 4 annas per camel load is charged. Gliee 1 ^ annas per Kandahari maund. Wood 1 anna a load : fruit ditto ditto : ^ of all the oil brought is taken. In the city new skull caps are taxed at 2 pice each, the kidney fat of every sheep or goat slaughtered is the government share, and is sent to the royal soap manufactory, where it is made into a coarse description of soap on the most economical principles, and sold to the population ; each shoj) pays a tax of 1-i- Kandahar Rupees per mensem, Syads, Mullahs and a few others being the only classes exempted. Dyers pay Co.'s Rupees 1,500 per annum. Tanners 4,000 Rupees. Cap and postin makers 600 Rupees. Butchers 700 Rupees. Silk-weavers 3,500 Rupees. Gram-dealers Rupees 1,250. The Hindu tax called " Juz" (capitation) produces 3,000 Rupees. Cattle market 2,500. Gaming-houses 2,500 Rupees. Abkari 300 Rupees. Bakers have to present the governor with 30 Kandahar niaunds of bread (15 maunds at each Eed). The whole number of tax-paying shops in the city amoimt to 907. The greatest merchant in Kandahar is Hyat Khan, who has agents in Herat, Lahore and Sindh ; the chief Hindus are Ranjit Singh, the Government p 2 [ 1<^8 ] Agent, vvl\o presides over all panchayets and collects the " Juz," Blianna Clmr and Jairam, none of these now appear to have any dealings with Cabul, and althougli bills can be easily negotiated on Shikarpiir, the Panjab or Herat, orders on the capital are difficult to procure. The Syads of Peshin, Kakars, Bakhtyars and Beluchis generally, are the tribes chiefly engaged in the horse trade, which Horse trade. ' . ' „ . i • i_i usually flourishes for six months in the year, but is stagnant for the hot months and during winter, when the roads are partially closed by snow ; about 2 or 3000 horses are said to pass through Kandahar annually ; tlie chief breeding districts drawn on by these traders are Sarakhs, in Irak, Maimunnah in Turklstan, Nur and Ivillah now in Haza- rah, Darya Gaz and Khilat-i-Nadir, in Mashad; Gulza and Ferozkoh in the Herat district. Of these the horses from Sarakhs, Nur and Gulza are most prized, and are purchased on tlie spot for, from 10 to 20 tillahs (equal to 60 or 120 Co.'s Rupees). Animals of much higher blood and value are to be found at these places, but they ai'e seldom purchased by traders as there is a great chance of such liorses being picked out by the Durani Sirdars (in transit) at their own valuation, and altogether the profit on blood horses is not so great as that on the cheaper breeds. Colts are allowed to run at the mare's foot until a year old, on the exten- sive grazing grounds of these districts, and as soon as weaned are sold to Hindus who keep tliem a short time and barter them against Indigo, chintzes, &c. &c. brought for the purpose by regular horse-dealers. At Kandahar, transit duty at from 15 to 30 Rupees is charged on each animal, and to escape this tax the traders frequently take the desert routes through Siestan to Belo- chistan detailed hereafter. The Syads of Peshin and other small traders carry on the traffic in human beings in Western Affs^hanistan, and some 4 or Slave trade. ^= ,, ,. , Ir ^ , 500 are annually disposed of in Kandahar alone. Some are purchased in Siestan, but most of them are kidnapped ; very few Persians ai'e brought here as slaves, and those are chiefly purchased from the Turkomans ; they are usually imported by the Siestan route. Hazarah furnishes a large quota, frequently in lieu of arrears of revenue, when there is any difficulty in realizing the Government assignments made on different villages, — while some monsters in human sliape are found among these Hazarahs who sell their sisters and daughters into hopeless bondage. The price of slaves fluctuates according to the price of food. During seasons of abundance, they fetch tolerable sums, but in time of fiimine or scarcity they are a drug in the market ; for instance shortly after our arrival here, last year, when the famine was great in Kandahar, two women and a boy were sold [ 109 ] to one iiKlividual for Ttupces 120, and almost any numl'cr niiglit have been purchased at the same rate. The Hazarahs and negroes are most prized in Kandahar, as, when treated well, they invariably make hard working, trustworthy servants, and, strange to say, few Hazarahs ever attempt to escape to their own country ; the reason is said to be that when there, they have great difficulty in getting sufficient food to exist upon, whereas, when they are with Affghan Sirdars (so long as they do their duty) they get well clothed and plenty of food ; they are generally employed in the charge of horses. There are a good many African slaves in Kandahar ; most of these, I find, are brought by pilgrims from Muscat, through Persia and Herat or Siestan, while some (though 1 am not aware of any arrivals during our residence at Kandahar) are smuggled up with Kafillahs from Bombay. The principal dealer on the Persian line is a Syad (Mir Syad Ali) who has an agent in Herat, while Najak Shah, one of the Peshin Syads used to be notorious on the Bombay route, but he is said not to have visited Kandahar for the last three years : although I know of several slaves now in Kandahar who have been smuggled up within that period by other parties. The cows of Kandahar and Siestan are in general request, and are said to give 20 seers of milk each per diem, being milk- ed three times in 24 houis; they fetch about Rupees 40 each, but the breed peculiar to the country about Gowdam are the best and cannot be purchased under 50 liupees each. Camels are anything but plentiful in the Kandahar di.^trict, and the supply is scarcely adequate to meet the demands of the trading population, and many are imported I'rom Bolochistan ; prices vary from 20 to 100 liupees. Siestan appears to be a wretched country, for I can hear but of two articles brought from that quarter, lieginahi, and eidei'-down, Regmabi. The former are a species of small sand lizard (lacerta scincus) procured in great quantities from the sandy deserts border- ing on Siestan ; they are caught, killed, and dried in the sun for exportation to Hindustan, where they sell at the high rate of 4 for a rupee, being sup- posed to possess some extraordinary strengthening properties in cases of nervous debility and other infirmities of the same class. Eider ducks are said to abound on the Siestan Lake, and the natives kill them in great numbers in the following way. Eider doven. -r^ . « • i , t i,> Parties of men go at night and concealing 10 or 12 men in the long grass on the small islands in the lake, the remainder set fire to the heavy jungal round the margin of the lake which so bewilders and frightens the ducks that they flock in hundreds to the islands and are knocked [ no ] on the head vvlLli sticks by the parties concealed there. The down, however, is much adulterated. Perhaps of all the districts round Kandahar, that lying between Siestan and Belociiistan is the least known to us, and in the Siestan routes. absence of more precise information, tlie follow- ing routes usually taken by Beluclii Kafillahs may prove useful as illustrative of the inhospitable character of that tract of country. The length of the different marches is not given, as the people frequenting them, have little or no idea of distances, but each may be put down at an average of 20 miles. Route from Khilat (Belociiistan) to Killapiit in Siestan. Kauez Naib Muhammad IIusseik. Country well cultivated along this march, and water abundant from karezas : Beluch population. Daurah. Population Barraks ; country arid and sandy, water from a karez. Dehi Sirdar Sirfaeaz Khan. Inhabited by Beluchies ; road all the way over sand ; on tliis march pass a quantity of " balut" (oak) jungal : water from wells dug in the sand. Chokani Jakt. Inhabited by Beluchies : Shah Pasand Khan (Beluch) owns this village ; grass and forage are abundant, the population generally following a pastoral life ; road as in last march : water from wells. Daerah Shah Pasand Khan. Iload through a darrah, and encamp in it near a spring : no village. Badshah nur killa. Over a sandy undulating desert to a mined village on the banks of the Helmund, In the next 3 marches to Killapat, by Kamal Khan, and Gumbut, the route traverses the cultivated valley of the Hebnand, in the district of Siestan, which even the wild Beluchl describes as infested by flies, and where the rays of the sun strike with such vigor on the soil, that even the camel of the desert is obliged to be housed to protect it from their all-powerful and destroying beams. Another route sometimes used by Beluchies is a direct road from Ghirisk to Kharan. , The first four marches follow down the Hilmand, encamping at Lirkar- wallah ; Killa Bnz ; Hazar Guft, and Laki, all Bamekzi or Murzie villages; from the latter Kafdlahs are conducted by guides aci'oss the desert : for tlie first day no water is procurable for man or beast ; on the second day you arrive [ Jll ] at a place called Haibu, where tliere are two wells resorted to by noniad tribes during the winter mouths only. On the 3rd march, a desert is traversed, and no water is to be had. The 4th day brings the caravan to Shur Chahan where there is always some brackish water. The 5th march is also through a howling wilderness without wafer. On the 10th day from Ghirislc, arrive at some hills known as the Koh-i- Is^hmail Khan, which are of quite as unattractive a nature as the desert just crossed; at this spot are two wells. The 11th march is to Niski. After cross- ing the hills mentioned in the last stage, the caravan debouches on to an extensive open plain, on which stands the Belochi village of Niski, where water is abundant from wells and springs, 12th village of Shah Pasand Khan, mentioned as the 5th stage in the last route ; froni this point there are two mai'ches in the Darrah Kharun, throughout which water from springs is pro- curable at various points. The next stage is to Nawabi Arzad Khan, a Beluch village in the midst of cultivation and supplied with water from springs. One more march brings the caravan to the well known town of Kharan. Although the innate suspiciousness and love for exaggeration of the AIT- ghan's character render it next to impossible to collect anything like statis- tical or even reliable information upon the most common subjects, I have from time to time gleaned the above notes from individual merchants engaged iu the trade of Kandahar. The opening up of the resources of Sindh and the Panjab, together with increased facilities for the transit of commerce to and from the port of Kurra- clii, must, no doubt, in time have their usual effects on this part of Affglian- istan, and considerably increase the exports of Kandahar. But the impover- ished state of the Amir's exchequer, and the expedients which Governors of provinces resort to, to make the required revenue, preclude all hope of reduc- tion in tlie present heavy transit duties of All'ghanistan, during the present reign ; nor is it likely that general political fermention which must in all human probability ensue on the Amii's deatii, will inqirove matters in tliis respect. APPENDIX F. A description of Kajflristari and its inJiahitanis compiled from the ac- counts by Mr. Elphinstone and Sir A. Burncs, as ivell as fro^n information gathered from Kaffir slaves in the service of different Affghan Sirdars. Hindu Kush is the name generally given to the water-shed line between . the rivers Oxus and Indus, or rather to that Hindu Kush and KafEristan. portion of it in which the Dehasrud, Kholu- mab, the Kunduz and Kokehar streams take their rise, and flow northwards to the Oxus, (called by the people east of Balkh the Panj) while its southern slopes are drained by the numerous tributaries of the Cabul river, wliich falls into the Indus opposite to Attok. The largest of these tributaries is known as the Konour river, wliich is supposed to have its sources about Lat. 36° 30' N. and Long. 73* 20' E. and after draining the mountains on either side of the Kashgar, or Chittral valley, where it is called Bailum, it is joined at Ciiigurserai (about 48 koss above its junction with the Cabul river) by a con- siderable stream coming down from the N. W. All tlie country drained by this last mentioned tributary, which has different names in different localities, is known as Kafliristan ; and, as shown in the accompanying sketch map compiled from native information, comprises the entire possessions of these tribes, excepting the portion held by the Kilties, the water from whose lands runs in a northerly direction, and one or two smaller imtches detailed in the sketch. 2. Kaffiristan may therefore be said to consist of an elevated plateau, forming for a distance of about 80 miles, as already explained, the summit of that elevated range called the Hindu Kush ; the drainage of tliis Ali)ine tract in its higliest altitudes seems to be sometliing like the fingers of a man's open hand, a number of small contiguous valleys concentrating their waters in one point, from which the main stream Hows down a long deep glen and i:* joined at intervals by others in valleys sliooting out at right angles from either side : the different slopes drained by these small tributaries seem to form the natural divisions of the country, and each valley or glen has its own name and separate tribe, aud is again subdivided into many smaller sections. w [ 113 ] 3. As might be expected in a country of tliis description, while the upper _ , . , and more elevated portions afford nothinir better Oreneral aspect of tlie country. _ than grazing grounds to the pastoral portion of these tribes, the lower slopes are generally found clad with dense forests of pine ; and the narrow and well sheltered valleys are cultivated, and yield, in addition to wheat and millet sufficient for the consumption of its inha- bitants, rich supply of grapes, apples and other fruits common in cool climates. 4. Tlie principal divisions of the Kaffir tribes are as follows, Traiegama, ^. . . . ., , Waiegal, Waillegal, Kam, Kamuz, Katti.Rahrah, Divisions of tribes and country. Mundegal, Peh, and Kantor ; all of these are again subdivided into endless sections, all of which it would be very difficult and perhaps neither useful nor interesting to trace, but the following are a few of them which, as already shown, are divisions of country as well as of tribes. 1. Traiegama, divided into Gambhir, Kattar and Devi. 2. Waiegal, divided into Paintar, AVillwaie and P)aiigalli. 3. Kantor is the largest division and includes Kaymgal, Peh (again divided into Bairkama, Pimichgram and Atargam) and Gadu. 4. The Kicth is also a very numerous faction, chiefly pastoral, and lias the reputation of being the most ancient branch, as all the other divisions of the tribe are said to have been offshoots from it. There are besides the above, a great number of smaller tribes, to be found located along the bed of the main stream, such as, Paj, Paintar, Pendesh, &c. 5. The form of government among the Kaffirs is a sort of patriarchal republic, for there are certain families of ancient Government and lands. descent in eacli valley who are much looked up to, and a conclave of the elders or white beards from among whom, settle all matters of government, and when necessaiy make peace or war. Blood-feuds are very prevalent, and bitter, both between individuals and tribes, and a very common way of bringing about a reconciliation between families is to give a daughter in marriage to some member of the opposition, but in such a case it is understood that no dowry is exacted. Every Kaffir killing a Kaffir, no matter what the provocation may have been, is driven out of his village for three years, at least, after which time he may return with the consent of the elders, but take his chance of being retaliated upon by the relatives of the victim ; and in aggravated cases, he is not allowed to return at all. Vengeance is considered a sacred duty, but in the event of two Kaffirs who have a blood- feud between them, meeting under circumstances precluding their settling accounts on the spot (such as one of them having a guest with him) the \ [ 113 ] 3. As might be expected in a country of this description, while the upper „ , ^ , and more elevated portions afford nothincr better General aspect of tlie country. '^ than grazing grounds to the pastoral portion of these tribes, the lower slopes are generally found clad with dense forests of pine ; and the narrow and well sheltered valleys are cultivated, and yield, in addition to wheat and millet sufficient for the consumption of its inha- bitants, rich supply of grapes, apples and other fruits common in cool climates, 4. The principal divisions of the Kaffir tribes are as follows, Traiegama, ^. . . ^ ., , Waiegal, Waillegal, Kam, Kamuz, Katti.Rahrah, Divisions of tribes and country. c a , , Mundegal, Peh, and Kantor ; all of these are again subdivided into endless sections, all of which it would be very difficult and perhaps neither useful nor interesting to trace, but the following are a few of them which, as already shown, are divisions of country as well as of tribes. 1. Traiegama, divided into Gambhir, Kattar and Devi. 2. Waiegal, divided into Paintar, AVillwaie and Hangalli. 3. Kantor is the largest division and includes Kaynigal, Peh (again divided into Bairkaina, Pimichgram and Atargam) and Gadu. 4. The Kieth is also a very numerous faction, chiefly pastoral, and has the reputation of being the most ancient branch, as all the other divisions of the tribe are said to have been offshoots from it. There are besides the above, a great number of smaller tribes, to be found located along the bed of the main stream, such as, Paj, Paintar, Pendesh, &c. 5. The form of government among the Kaffirs is a sort of patriarchal republic, for there are certain families of ancient Government and lands. descent in each valley who are much looked up to, and a conclave of the elders or white beards from among whom, settle all matters of government, and when necessary malce peace or war. Blood-feuds are very prevalent, and bitter, botli between individuals and tribes, and a very common way of bringing about a reconciliation between families is to give a daughter in marriage to some member of the opposition, but in such a case it is understood that no dowry is exacted. Every Kaffir killing a Kaffir, no matter what the provocation may have been, is driven out of his village for three years, at least, after which time he may return with the consent of the elders, but take his chance of being retaliated upon by the relatives of the victim ; and in aggravated cases, he is not allowed to return at all. "Vengeance is considered a sacred duty, but in the event of two Kaffirs who have a blood- feud between them, meeting under circumstances precluding their settlino- accounts on the spot (such as one of them having a guest with him) the y the bridegroom's fiither. 11. Attached to each Kaffir village is a lying-in hospital, to which all women are obliged to retire when about to be confined, as the birth of a child within the pre- cincts of a village is supposed to bring down the wrath of the gods in tho ehapc of famine or pestilence : at the end of forty days tlie mother returns to her home, a great feast is given, and the "little stranger" has a namtj given him. [ 116 ] 12. Kaffirs like many more enlightened nations appear never tliorouglilj to appreciate a man's deeds until he is beyond Funerals. . ^ all thanks, for the great event in a Kaffir's history is his funeral : on this occasion the body is dressed out in its finest attire and laid on a bed : the whole population of the village assemble at the house, and keep up a perpetual round of dancing and singing, the men in one party and the women in another, the body being taken up on the bed at in- tervals and carried up and down the room ; in the case of a notable, tins ceremony continues for eight or ten daj's, during which time all present are feasted and regaled with wine, excepting the immediate relations of the deceased who are supposed to be in too great grief to care for such things. After the feasting is finished, the body is placed and nailed down in a box, which is carried to the summit of a hill or other conspicuous spot, and placed under some slielving rock sheltered from the weather, and the spot marked by a cluster of flags mounted on long poles. If the man was a very great worthy, his bones are treated to a new suit of clothes, a second commemorative feast, and a new box at the end of five years. But should he have fallen in a quarrel among his own tribe, he receives but a small portion of these honors. The remains of ordinary folks are simply closed in a box and carried to the top of some adjacent mountain, and there left without further ceremony. In the case of a distinguished warrior who has fallen in battle at a distance from his home, or under such circumstances that the body cannot conveniently be brought home, his friends cut off his head and bring that home to receive the honors, a body of straw being substituted in the clothing to complete the figure. 13. The religion of these tribes is a gross idolatry, though differing in many particulars from that of Hindus. Their Religion. . . i i i • > i i ,. images are invariably moulded in tlie shape of a man or woman, their chief deities are called Mahadeo, Paneo, Truskiu Enmrai, Kaantar and Bruk, but the great god of which these are supposed to be merely fractional parts, or incarnations, is known by the name of Dogan, who is the creator of all things and wields the destinies of all mankind ; the different incarnations having also some slight influence for good or evil. The Kaffir has no belief in a future state of reward or punishment, but holds that the principle of life is never extinct, for as soon as one eartbly body is used up, the vital spark is immediately transferred to ainother of the same species. 14. The priesthoods are invariably of a particular caste called " Utah," one family of which is attached to each idol to Priests. p i • perform the services and receive offerings. These men are generally wealthy, and looked up to by the Kaffirs, who, with this exception, ignore caste and all Hindu ceremonies as well as their ideas [ 117 ] of clean and unclean meats ; they will eat the flesli of cows and pigs and in fact of all except carnivorous animals. Before Dils or prophets. . • ■, i undertaking an expedition, or indeed an^'^ matter of great moment, a Kaffir generally sends for a " Dil" who is a sort of hereditary prophet among them, and requires from him the oracular result ; on these occasions the prophet seats himself mysteriously on the ground, balancing a strong bow by the centre of the string between the fore-finger and the thumb of both hands, placed close together, and calls on one of the deities (but more especially Truskin) to declare what the result will be ; in about quarter of an hour, should the bow oscillate in the direction of its length, the answer is supposed to be propitious, but if sideways, the reverse. Should Tru- skin not vouchsafe an answer, which is sometimes the case, another of the deities is similarly applied to, the bystanders all the while throwing down votive offerings before the Dil, for the god, to induce him to return a favourable answer ; the Dil of course being the self-constituted purse- bearer. 15. As the account of the religion of these tribes given by Mr. Elphinstone somewhat differs from the above obtained by me from men of Trijuma and Peh, I give it, he says. " The religion does not resemble any otliur with which I am acquainted. They believe in one god, whom the Kaffirs of Mr. Elphinstone's account. - „- , -r-. Kamdesh call Imra, and those of TsoUoi Dogan, but they also worship numerous idols, which tliey say represent great men of former days who intercede with god in favour of their worshippers. These idols are of stone or wood, and always represent men or women, sometimes mounted and sometimes on foot. Malla Najib had an opportunity of learning the arts which obtain an entrance to the Kaffir Pantheon. In the public apartment of the village of Kamdesh, was a high wooden pillar on which sat a figure with a spear in one hand and a staff in the other. This idol represented tlie father of one of the great men of the vilhige, who had erected it himself in his lifetime, having purchased the privilege by giving several feasts to the whole village ; nor was this the only instance of a man deified for sucli reasons, and worshipped as much as any other of the gods. The Kaffirs appear indeed to attach tlie utmost importance to the virtues of liberality and hospitality. It is they which procure the easiest admission to their paradise, which they call Bari-le-Bula, and the opposite vices are the most certain guides to Bari- Daffiir-Bula, or hell." 16. When about to make a sacrifice to the gods, a Kaffir first takes water, and pronouncing the name of the deity it is Sacrifices. . ... intended to pr(tpitiate, dashes a handful of it [ 118 ] into the animal's ear, vvlien, if tlie victim shakes his head to get i id of the water, it is supposed to be a sign that the sacrifice will be accepted, but if not the animal is not killed. All cattle and sheep taken in battle with their enemies are sacrificed to the gods and not one kept, while all arms, &c., become the property of the captors. 17. These tribes are noted even among their Muhamraudan neighbours for the faith with which they keep every compact once entered into. A Kaffir before breaking a truce, even when made for a stipulated time, invariably sends a brace of bullets or arrows as a significant hint of his future intentions, but like most barbarous, and some which consider themselves civilized, tribes, they consider any deceit fair in love or war. This race looks upon hospitality as a sacred duty, and when an old and intimate friend comes to a Kaffir's house, the host runs to the flock and brings bis finest ram, which is killed, and a handful of the blood sprinkled on the forehead of his guest, while the flesh is cooked for his dinner. When a very celebrated character arrives in a village, the people turn out, place him aloft on a charpai and dance about with him thus raised and around him for two or three hours, with music and firing guns and pistols, but these are honors seldom conferred ; perhaps once in ten or twelve years. 18. Houses are usually built on the slope of a hill: the walls are formed of stone, mud and wood fitted together, and rise Houses. .,.,,. two or three stones ni lieight, havujg under- ground cellars for wine. The upper apartments are reached by stairs formed of the trunks of three or four large trees, placed in a slanting direction, side by side, having deep notches cut in them to answer the purpose of steps. 19. Kaffir wines are of two classes, dark or light, according to the colour of the grapes used in the manufacture, none but W iiiGs children are allowed by their laws of the land to touch the vines before an appointed period, when the whole tribe set to work and get in their vintage, this custom was adopted in order to ensure the grapes being thoroughly ripe before they are made into wine, and secure its being of the best quality. The fruit is trodden in a large wooden trough, from which a small spout conducts the juice on to a grass sieve, placed over the mouth of a large earthen or stone vat, in which the wine is allowed to settle and ferment, the froth which rises being daily skimmed off. As soon as the process of fermentation is over, the sediment is removed from the bottom of the vat in wooden ladles, with the greatest care, to prevent tlie wine becom- ing muddy, after which the mouth of the vat is closed with mud, and remains [ 119 ] so for three or four months, when the wine is fit for use, but the longer it is kept the more it is valued. When the whole of the wine has been used, bread is soaked in the lees at the bottom of the vat, and in this shape forms a recherche dish among Kaffirs. 20. In killing sheep for food, Kaffirs cut their throats by sticking the knife through and cutting outwards ; bullocks are Killing food. „,,,-, .,i i i -i first knocked down with a pole-axe, and then bled to death. Some of these tribes will not eat fowls owing to their alwaj-s feeding on dungheaps, and consider them unclean, for which reason they are scarce. 21. I cannot better describe the account of the Kaffirs given by themselves than by extracting the following passage from Sir Alexander Burnes' Notes on these tribes, which I have had corroborated by Faramosh Khan, a Kaflir slave from Waigal, and General of the Troops of Sirdar Ghulam llydar Khan heir- apparent of Cabul. " In speaking of their nation, these tribes designate themselves as the Muhanimadans do, Kaffirs, with which they Kaffir account of themselves. do not couple any oi)probnous meanmg, though it implies infidel. They consider themselves descended from one Kourhshye, and tlii-ir Muhammadan neighbours either corrupt the word, or assign them a lineage from Koresh, one of the noblest of the tribes of Arabia, to the language of which country they further state that of the Kaffirs to be allied. Tliey have no distinctions of black and white Kaffirs that I could hear of and one of my Kaffir informants assured me that his tribe looked upon all as brothers who wore ringlets and drink wine. They have no definite idea of the surrounding countries, Bajour and Kumar to the south, being the limits of their geographical knowledge. They have no books, nor is reading or writing knowri in the nation, so that they have no recorded, traditions. Their country has many table-lands, some of which extend for fifteen or twenty miles, and on these there are always villages. Waigal and Kamdesh are on one of these plateaus. The winter is severe, but in summer, grapes ripen in abundance. They do not appear to carry on any combined operations against their neighbours, but they retaliate when an invasion of their frontier takes place, and are very inveterate against the Mu- hanimadans and give no quarter to captives. They possess great ability and activity, qualities which their enemies accord to them, Muhammadans seldom venture to enter their country as travellers, but Hindus go as mercliants and beggars (fakirs) and are not ill-used. They are very fond of music and dancing, but, as in eating, the men separate from the women, and the dance of the one sex differs from that of the other. Both were exhibited to me : that [ 120 ] of the men consists of three hops on one foot and leaps with both feet going' round in a circle. They have a two-stringed instrument and a kind of drum for music." " The mode of life among the Kaffirs is described as social, since they frequently assemble at each others houses, or under the trees which embosom them, and have drinking parties. In winter they sit round a fire and talk of their exploits. They drink from silver cups, trophies of their spoil in war. Old and young of both sexes drink wine, and grape juice is given to children at the breast. A Hindu who was present at a Kaffir's marriage informed me that the bridegroom had his food given to him behind his back because he had not killed a Muliammadan. " Enmities frequently arise among them, but the most deadly feud may be extinguished by one of the parties kissing the nipple of his antagonist's left breast, as being typical of drinking the milk of friendship, the other party then returns the compliment by kissing the suitor on the head, when they become friends till deatli. The Kaffirs do not sell their children to Muham- madans, though a man in distress, may sometimes dispose of his servant or steal a neighbour's child and sell him." 22. Shakur, a Kaffir slave at Kandahar, related to me that when he was taken, he had been enticed down by a pre- Shakur Khan captive. i -i ,. • i ,. , • i t^t • i j tended friend from his home at Waigai to a border village near Chigar serai, on the pretence of some private business, but on entering a house there, he suddenly found himself seized by a number of Affghans who were concealed on the premises, was carried off by them and forcibly converted to Muhammadanisin. 23. There has long been a feud between the tribes of Waigai and those of Peh, and the inhabitants of these two districts are "Pehduz." , . ... constantly organising raids against each other, which have resulted in Waigai being almost denuded of its flocks and herds. For, while they have been exposed, the Peh tribe have constructed extensive subterra- nean labyrinths, the passages of which are for the most part, only wide enough for one person moving along at a time, into which they drive the sheep and cattle on any signal of alarm being given, and when an enemy attempts to follow them into these burrows he is sure to get bewildered, and by taking wrong turnings exposes himself to attacks from all quarters. These caves are known among the Kaffirs by the name of " Peh duz." 24. The general dress of these Kaffirs is made of tanned goats' skins, cured with the hair on which circumstance has Dress. obtained, for these people the general name of " Seah posh." In Peh, however, and some other districts, as well as among the [ 121 ] riclier families, clotliing ia oftener made of a coarse woollen home-?pnn fabric. Mr. Klphinstone saj's on this liead, " That Kaffirs in good circumstances and those near the Affghans wear a shirt beneath their vest, and in summer the shirt forms the whole of their dress, as it always does with the women. The great do nut wear goat skins, but cotton cloth or black hair cloth, some also wear the sort of white blanket, woven in the neighbouring country of Kashgar. The blankets are put on like the Highland plaids, come down to near the knee, and are fastened with a belt, they also wear cotton trowsers which, as well as their shirts, are worked all over with flowers in red and black worsted. The trowsers are slit at the bottom, so as to make a sort of frhige. They also wear worsted stockings or perhaps worsted fillets rolled round their legs, and the warriors wear half boots of white goat-skins. Mr. E. says that tliough ex- asperated to fury by the persecutions of the Mumhammadans, the Kaffirs ai'e in general a harmless, affectionate, and kind-hearted people. Though passion- ate, they are easily appeased : they are merry, playful, fond of laughter, and altogether of a sociable and joyous disposition." 25. While at Kandahar, I have taken considerable pains to get from Kallirs any traditions which they may have ot Oriizin of tliese tribes and .1 ■ • • i 1 1; ., 4.1 „«. <.i „ „,. . i-u ., . p then- own ori<;m, and believe that they are noth- tlieir lauguage. ° ' '' ing more nor less than the aborigines of the plain country, who refusing to change their religion on the advance of ** Islam" were driven from the plain country by the Muhammadan fanatics and took refuge in the inaccessible fastnesses of their present homes. For they lay claim to the whole of AflTghanistan. And my endeavours to master their language spoken in Trigania and Waigal (a vocabulary of which is to be found at the end of this [laper) further strengtliens this idea from the evident Sanskrit root ofmany of the words. Mr. El[)hin- Mr. Elphinstone's account. stone says, " Ihcre are several languages among the Kaffirs, but tliey have all many words in common, and all have a near connexion with the Sanskrit. They have all one peculiarity, which is that they count by scores instead of hundreds, that their thousand (which they call by a Persian and Pushtu name) consists of four hundred or twenty score. All these observations apply also to the Lughmani or Dogani language, which seems to be a Kaffir dialect, and gives reason to suppose the Lugiimanis Uoganis to be Kaffirs converted to the Muhammadan religion. 1 imagine the inhabitants of the Kohistan of Cabul to have the same origin, particularly as ^ tlie name of Kohistani is that applied to all the lately converted Kalfirs. This j derivation of their language seems fatal to the descent of the Kallirs from the Greeks, and their traditions do not furnish us with any distinct account of their i origin." i T22 ] 2G. When a Kaffir has killed five Muliammadans, he is considered a brave __ , man (Bahadur) and when he can make the num- A Heroe s monument or dal. ..... ber up to sixty, he is entitled to set up a squared pole with the figure of himself (sometimes only a head, at others a whole figure or even the man on horseback) carved on the top of it, close to hia village, and a peg of wood is put through the pole alternately from either side, for every man he has killed; this monument is called a " dal," but, as may readily be supposed, tliere are not very many of them. In the whole Waigal district thei'e is only one, which stands on the bank of the river and is in memory of one Janik. 27. Kaffir slaves are greatly sought after by the AfPghans on account of . , „ , . their known courage and fidelity, and the pre- KaiBr slaves m Aiiglianistan. . . \ • ^ ■^ \ n i • sent reigmng Barakzai family have all their confidential body servants from these tribes, as well as young boys who attend upon the females of their " harem ;" the price of a Kaffir boy is from 40 to 200 Co.'s Ks. Kaffir girls when caught are brought up by rich families as slaves, and fetch so much per span in height, according to their looks ; a very pretty one has been known to sell at 100 Rs. per span, or almost her weight in silver. They are said to be exceedingly fair, but like Circassians and Geor- gians are wanting in animation. These slaves are generally procured through tlie agency of rascally Nimchas (half breeds) in the neighbourhood of Faraj- ghan and Chigarsarai. Nothing but the dilliculty of the approaches to their alpine fastnesses, and their own well known bravery, could have enabled these tribes to remain so long independent, surrounded as they are on all sides by a bigoted Muhammadan population, with whose chiefs, right is might and who are ever on the watch for opportunities of adding to their power or for turning a penny. 28. The two most practicable routes into Kaffiristan seem to be that from Jalalabad up the banks of the Kunur river to Chigarsarai, described as being in many places exceedingly difficult, with several kothals or steep ascents to be crossed, only practicable for lightly laden mules, with commanding heights towering over the road. The other route has been described by Lt. Leech in his report to Government on the passes of tlie Hindu Kush ; it goes from Cabul to Farajghan and then to Darban ; " This route was adopted by Mir Taimur in his attack on the Kaffirs, which was made at the instigation of the inhabitants of Anderab, who had suifered much from the tyranny of the former. He mentions tlie difficulty of these passes to have been so great that his army was obliged to wait till the snow froze at night ; when they marched on it, and in the daytime halted, spreading blankets under the horses' feet to prevent them sinking in the snow ; and that to enter the valley of Kaflir- [ 123 ] istan, they were obliged to tlismouiit and send their horses back, and to ^lide down the mountain, the Mir himself being let down by a rope. Several fine horses were ruined in an attempt to be let down in a similar manner. Sueh enterprises might have been undertaken by Taimur, but he appears to have belonged to a very different breed from the rulers of Affghanistan and the countries round Kaffiristan in the present day." 29. The following is the route from Jalalabad to Chighar serai, followed by a force which went up as far as Dauai under the late Sirdar Muhammad Akbar Khan in the summer of 1844. From Jalalabad to Bizzabik, 12 j- miles, road passing Besut and through the Tangi Takchi Darrah. liizzarik is a fort in the Darya-i-Xur valley. Getampue. — 16 miles, over a difficult road along the bank of the river. NuRGAL. — 18 miles. This is a ver}' tiresome march, all up and down the whole way, cro!^sing spur after spur, and winding down to the bed of tl»e stream again. From A'urgal a path leads into the rich valley of Kumar which is said to be covered with forts and villages and well cultivated (on this line the Kumar river is crossed at the village of Paltan by a bridge.) the river is exceedingly rapid and deep. Dari choki. — 20 miles. Another difficult march of much the same nature as yesterday. Narang. — 14 miles. Cross a kothal on which is a tower called Kotihi buij and tiirough the village of Kotihi onto Narang. This is a considerable place ; on the opposite bank of the river are two villages in the small valley of Posh ad. Chigar Sarai. — IG miles, Eoad comparatively level until reaching this town, where a considerable hill has to be got over. Throusirh Harang, Kafil- labs of laden mules occa,sionally pass from Bajur to Cabul in order to avoid the country of the Gigeonis. They cross the range of mountains of which the Kowghai mountain is a prominent peak, by the MuUakaud pass, to the north of that snowy point, and coming down by Siraki and Donai, cross the river to Isarang. The total distance fronj Jalulabivd to Chigar sarai by this route would thus be about 97 miles. R 2 [ 121 ] A Vocabulary of tie Kaffir Abandon, to, v. a. Abate, to, v. n. Abide, to, v. n. Abiding, Able, to be, v. n. Abode, Abolisb, to, V. a. Above, Abscess, Abscond, to, Absorb, to, Abstain, to, Abuse, Accompany, to, Accomplice, Accord, Account, to, Acbe, to, Acid, Acquaintance, Active, Admonition, Advance, to, Adversity, Afar, Afraid, to be, After, Again, Agree, to, Agreement, Ailment, Alarm, Aligbt, to, Alike, Alive, All, Language as spohen in Traieguma and Waigul. Utawen. A'pilok beasen. Utiassin, Puta ben. Ben. Sbea, or imi. Otaivi. Phuwah. Mdki. Shenstachun. Neien. Sukkan. Yarrabiin. Yarra. Sens. Eaien, Ddeas. Chukurlussfi. Pullaie. Kukka. Chuchawista. Nislipren prutta. Dungova. Sudiiwa. Wediin. Putaken. Aumga bar. Boien. Sirazen. Numutchid. Widiassa. ITcbiin. Epegbr. Ginta. Supriik. I [ 125 ] Allot, to, Alone, Also, Alternately, Amass, to. Ancestors, Anger, Annoy, to. Answer, to, Ant, Antagonist, Antelope, Antler, Apart, Appear, to, Appearance, Appease, to, Appetite, Applaud, to, Apple, an, Appoint, to. Apprehend, to, Apprize, to, Approve, to. Argue, to, Arise, to, Arm, the. Armed, Army, an. Arrogance, Arrow, Artful, Amour, Ascertain, to, Ashamed, Ashamed, to be, Ashes, Ask, to, Asleep, Ass, an, Muttechun. Poken. r. Par-e-par. Suprun or Elaw Kriiu. Illutta. tfrush. Tingabun. Muttreri. Pimlik. Puchunna. Murrung. Singh. Poken. Weango. Kunassur. Sirdawen. Awutta. Sawaschiin. Pultah. Preshe. Dumawi. Shidaun. Biisazin, Melenchiin. Oshtiin. Di'isht. Duckra or Ire. Kuttuki. Eollubuliik. Kan or Kain. Chun. Irak. AViimun. Lejarah. Lejarah Beush. Ain ba Palal. Muthaun. Proshwa. Guddah. [ 1^6 ] Assail, to, Assault, an, Assay, to. Assemble, to, Assent, to, Assistance, Assume, to, Astonished, Augment, to, Aunt, an, Autumn, Awake, Aware, Awe, Awkward, Axe. B. Back, the, Back, ach. Bad, Bag, Bake, to, Bald, Bandage, Bare, Barefoot, Bareheaded, Bark (of a tree), Barley, Barren (as a woman), Base, Bashful, to be. Bathe, to. Battle, Beak, (of a bird) Beam, Bear, a. Beard, Beat, to. Beautiful, Wi. Sunneh. Itachun. Suprokat. Oi Shaw. Bostakhon. Tup Tapich. Hiran. Etchu Kunin. Muchai or Shuri. Sari. "Wejista. Swieddi. Widih. Digellah. Chavi. Dukka. Puttaken. Ulrah. Kuchok. Puchiin. Alliil. Sutituplawi or dam, Mochutri. Nagusta. Kur nagusta. Schaf nagusta. Ostum ba cham. Eu or zu. Slieshista. Ulrah. Lajarubiin. Oyanchiin. Shiich. Nashu. Ula oshtum. Berew. Duh. Wiun. Gadistii. [ 127 ] Bedstead, Bee, a, Befall, Before, Beg, to. Beggar, a, Begin, to, Begone, interj. Beguile, to, Behind, Believe, to, Belly, Beneath, Bend, to. Bent, (crooked) Beside, (near) Bft, Betimes, Betrothal, Between, Big, Bind, to, Bird, Bit, (piece) Bitch, a, Bitter, Blaclc, Blacken, to, Blacksmith, Bleed, to, Blemish, Bhnd, Blood, Blow, to, Board, Boasting, Body, the, Boil, a, Boil, to, Bone, Prunalit. Michi ba mshok. Bun. Nuchtari. Wichiia. Dungovah. Eichiin. Pip sik. Duttan. Putari. Priii chiin. Kuto. Un. Attuklaini, AttukuUa. Yerra. Dani. Oestuk. Aeliiin. Mariu. iruih. Griintun. Nigussa. Pisriik. Seun. Charra. Kacha. Kacha kuiaiin. Chinia kura. Lai virsiin. Ubrah. Serah. Lai. Peun. Du. irilabullak. Git. Powah. Assahiin. Utti. [ 128 ] Bore, to, Both, Bough, Bow, a, Bowl, a. Bowstring, Box, Boy, Brackish, (as water) Brandish, to. Brave, Bravo ! Bread, Break, to, v. a., Breathe, to, Breed, Bright, Bring, Bring forth, to, (young) Broad, Broken, Broom, Brotlier, Brother-in-law, Brush, to. Browse, to, Buffalo, Bug, a. Bull, a, Bullet, Bullock, Bunch, Bundle, a. Burden, (a load) Burn, to, V. a.. Burst, to, V. n., Bury, to. Bush, a, Business, Butter, Soichun. Yanbiin. Ostum ba dow. Driin or Shingdrii. Dumli. Gochi or Shingdii. Tawanek. Dubhah. Chukurlusta. Arraraun. Simrusfa. Sabris. Aujdi or Eu. Sapuii. Sa de saiin. Duri. Julliassa. Awetissa. Ziiin (animals), Uljajauu (women). T/la slid. Supi. Drill. Brah. Wawai. Tukaiin. Churrjiiin. Mesli e Gah. Gozah. Beaunah. Pransewik. Ga or Tiirran. Mandukka. Bah. Batra. Dishkuu or Dcshchun, v. n. Ulattangun. Kacluiwie. Durah. Koedun. Uuuu. [ 129 ] Butter-milk, Buy, to, C. Ciijole, Calamity, Calculation, Call, to. Camel, Canal, Capital, Careful, Careless, Cat, Catch, to, Cause, Cave, Cease, to. Certainly, Chaff, Chair, Cheat, Clieese, Chew the cud. Chicken, Chide, to, Ciiief, Child, Childless, Chin, Choose, to. Churn, to. Churn, a. Circular, City, Claim, Clan, Claw, • Clean, Clean, to, Clever, S Wuschip. Wechiiu. Duttauii. Kakuslah, Gaiin. Chaiteh. I7kh. Shuelau or Shuelaw. Mai. Kushilah. Bearh. Fishau. Dame. Kussii. Shii. Suraun. Bai. Euss. Sliingncshai. Kuttaniush. Killi Ashalwensli. Kilkil ba kd. Lijarakriin. Ifla munush or Salauiaiiash. Dublah (M.) Dubli (F.) Kutshista. Duhutti. Bostazaun. Nokiiwi. Moka. Punrostah. Des. Sochchtin. Duri. Chuputta. Pak. Pak krun. Chuchilusta. [ i30 ] Cloak, a, Clod, a, Close, to, Cloth, Clothes, Clouds, Club, Coat, Coax, to. Cobbler, Cock, Coerce, to. Cold, Colour, Comb, a. Comb, ta, Come, to, Comfort, Command, Commit, Compact, Companion, Complain, Complete, to. Complexion, Comply, with. Comprehend, to. Compute, to, Comrade, Conceal, to. Concern, (busiuess) Confess, to, Confront, "^'^ Conjecture, Conquer, Conscience, Consider, to, Constitute, Contented, Converse, to. Choka. Pullal to kunna. Pipsi. Piitch or Kamis. Chullapech. Zerrah or M^yar. Dun. Kfivvesh. Pucliaun. Wazai, Epawall^. Kiiku. Akachandate. Euz. Peghr. Prowan. Prowan e chiin. Eas. Satwi, Mut. Prutta. Melakrun, Yarrah. Chiiuchas. Buri. Kuunsissa. Boiezean. Purojam. Guankun. Yarrah. Chunavvin. Tokussu. Povakunawin. Moka muk kawin. Zam. Katbim. Sukan. Echakuri. Sukin. Surazavvi. Sacunchigo. [ 131 ] Convey, Convoy, Cook, to, Cool, to. Corner, Corpe, a. Corpulent, Cost, Cotton, Cougli, to. Cough, a, Count, Countenance, Counterpane, Country, Cousin, Cow, Cowardly, Crack, to, Crack, a, Craftiness, Create, to. Created, Crooked, Cross, to. Crow, Cry, a. Cry, to. Cultivate, to. Cunning, Curds, Cure, to, Cup, Curl, Custom, Cut, to. Cut, (wounded) D. Dagger, Daily, s 2 vjruroge;iz. Skomelago. Puehawin. Cliillawin. Kunj. Mosta. Krulussa. Mdl. Poch or Pochi. Kase chan. Kassa. Giin. Muk. Brustun. Kullatur. Goieta or Istri taw. Masliilah. Ulaliu or LTJul. Spangoslii. Leha. Luttaiin. Lutti. Ullulla or Attukulla. Juriin. Wucl.yi. Chah. Cliaheclum. Kukaehu. Dotullah. Truh. BoibuQ. Dumbi. Chuuk. Edat. Saniin. Cliiiba. Kuttural). WasuassuQ. [ 132 ] Dance, to, Danger, Dark, Daughter, Daunt, to, Day, Dead, Deaf, Dearth, Death, Debate, Debt, Debtor, Decrepit, Deer, Defect, Defend, Delay, Delicate, Delighted, to be. Deliver, (to save) Depart, to, Descend, to. Descendants, Desert, a. Desert, (as a soldier Regiment) Desire, to. Desert, or Abandon, Despicable, Detain, to, Detect, to, DifFei'ent, Difficult, Dig, to, Diminish, to. Dip, to. Direction, Directly, Dirt. from Nachiin. Widik. Tramacha. Dubli. Widikaun, Gar ash. Muvvn. Boah. Apilok. Moviid. Eattun, Melaechiin. Dani. Danibiin. Chechiluttah, Marang. Abura. Sumatun. Puttubiin. Simlistah. Shahteun. Sumcitaun. Chu-iin. U'achun. Zugga. Giil or Ghotad^. Miikun. Wachiin. Utavven. Ubrah. Puttaban. Purrajun. Orunga. Ivukah. Kucluiun. Apriikchun. Unachun. Ken. Emullf. Wavvo. [ 133 ] Dirty, Disclose, to, Discontent, Disease, Disgrace, Disguise, to, Dismiss, to, Dismount, to, Disobedient, to be, Dispel, to. Displeasure, Disposition, Dispute, Dissolve, to, Distance, Distant, Distinct, Distinguish, to, (recognize), Distressed, (he was) Distressed, to be, Distribute, to, Ditto, to, Dog, Door, Doubt, Down adv. Duze, Draw, to. Dread, Dread, to. Dream, to, Dress, to, Drink, Drive away, to, Drop, a, Drove, Drunk, Drunk, to be, Dry, Piy, to, Negh, Waun. Tengawan. Namachabu. Wutchlants. Arraraun. Ottaun, Uachun. Mella na oechiiu. Pissaun. Haush. Buah. Shuch. Willan. Kitti. Siidii. Poken. Zaun. Chotanwah. Chetanbun. INIutti chuu. Echiin. T*iin. Dii. Bukemalias. l/en. Proshtchun. Taun. AVedik. Wedikaiin. Proshwaiin. Amachun. Peiin. Dikaiin. Epa, to drop, Sussuu. Palle. Beah. Beahbun. Sheshinslali. Shechaun. [ 134 ] Duck, a, Zik. Dumb, Buah. Dust, Pussolahudu. Dwell, to. Teamish. E. Each, Ek ek. Ear, Kar. Ear, an, (of corn) Eumka. Early, Uropuk. Earn, to, Push pall Luttaun. Eartli, Pullal. Earthquake, Chum or Chumme East, Soi Ken. Eat, to, Zeum. Edge, Ken. Effects, Mai. ^SS, Eow. Eight, l/st or Seht, Eighteen, Elash. Eighth, the, LTstum. Either, Eah. Elapse, Peturriin. Elbow, the, Ayah. Elder, (senior) Deshleun. Eleven, Zash. Eleventh, Zashm, Elongate, Driglachun. Eighty, Chatawasi. Elsewhere, Oumgalaw. Employment, Koridum. Empty, Suuh. Enamoured, Pakiin. Enclose, or encompass. Arrariin. Encourage, Emaboah tabiin. End, Puttiin. Enemy, an. Pachanah. Enmity, Sochwen. Enough, J3au. Enquiry, Kodaun. Entangled, Damagum. [ 135 ] Entire, Entrails, Equal, Equalize, to, Erelong, (soon) Erect, Error, Escape, to, Escort, Estimate, Evening, Every, Everywhere, Evil, Ever, Example, Exceedingly, Excellent, Exchange, Excuse, Executioner, Execute, to, (put to doatli) Exert, (one's self) Expectation, Expel, to. Expend, to. Expensive, Explain, to, Explode, to, Extent, Extricate, Extinguish, to, Eye, the. Eye-brow, Eye-lash, F. Pace, Face-to-face, Faculty, Faint, to, Sapriik. J hew. Barabar. Barabar echiin. Eneri. Utenishtah. Ubrah. Mokun. Dungawi. Gaun. Awazas hekh. Ekek ekek. Akunieo. Ubrah. Jhuiii. Seddt. Echu. Bostah. Nemal. Echuzari. Jdinlah Maudsb. Jain chiin. Kat chiin. Prash Butariu. Siidii euk. Suehdiin. Echu kukka. Paun. Uin. Vritti. Surraiin. Jeiin. Achi. Achinshai. Piitiik. Mukh. Miikh-a-mukh. Jicliich. Clietta buD. [ 136 ] Fair, Kushurah, Fall, to, U'suruUin. Fallen, Miringistah. Fallow, Gul. False, Laolulti. Family, A'man. Famine, Welaisutter. Fan, Pakkah. Far, Sodii. Fast, (as a horse) . ~ Sunulussa. Fast, a, Omjjah. Fasten, Grontiin, Fat, adj. BuUawiih. Fat, of meat, Sikiih. Fate, IVasib. Father, Fa ra or Falla. Fatigue, Krussuri. Fatte-n, BuUawuh chun. Faultless, A sin. Fear, Wedik. Fear, to, Wediliaiin. Fearlessly, Newedias. Feast, a. Wedeshah. Feather, Putai. Fee, Shtik kah paun Feeble, Kat nudustah. Feed, to, Zenun. Feign, to, Laiehiin. Felt, Islah. Female, (animal) Ishtri kishli. Ferry, Petuuui. Fetch, to. Aun. Felter Jingir, Feud, Pucbnurrah. Fever, Teiah. Few, Apelok apelok- Field, Tol. Fiend, Papenah. Fifteen, Cbadesb. Fifty, Dowesbi dosh. I [ 137 ] Fig, Kumith. Fight, Soch. Fight, to, Sochun. Fill, to, Burah diit pure Finally, Puttum. Fine, Sumlustah. Finger, Ungii or Azua. Finish, Bull. Fire, Ain or Ai. Firelock, Topuk. Firm, Kukah. First, Nushtari. Fish, Musha. Fist, Musht. Five, Flinch. Fix, Dungjiiin.. Flame, (of a fire) Shuttah. Flat, Barabar. Flea, a, Prunch. Flee, to, jMiikun. Fleece, Wuruk. Flesh, Unudli. Flint, Ain paier Diu. Flock, Pali. Flour, Braf. Flow, to, Chu un. Flower, a. Push. Flurry, to, Wedikailn. Fly, to, (as a bird) Puttai wendh. Fly, a. Mushuck. Flash, a, Prubiii. Foam, Shala A chun. Fodder, Fis. Follow, to, Puttari bda. Food, Enun. Foot, Kor. Forbid, to. Nowtaien. Force, Kilt. Forcibly, Kat a uiilli. Ford, a, Pitartjn taw. T [ 138 ] Forefathers, Forehead, Foreign, Foremost, Forest, a, Forget, to, Forgive, From, to. Former, Forsake, to, Foot, Forthwith, Forty, Four, Found, Fountain, Fourteen, Fowl, Fox, a, Fraud, Free, Friend, Friendship, Frighten, to, Frog, a, Frost, Fruit, Fry, to. Fugitive, Full, Fur, Funeral. Garment, Gather, to, General, Generation, Gently, Genuine, Get, G. Tala-e-lultah. Tulliik ro Taluk. Orungah. Mishtarl. Dahpeti. Pramushtun. irtai. Surazaiin. Nushtalli. Utavvi. Kullah. Enari. Doweshi. Chutta. Luttaiinhun. Surdurrah. Trdnsh. Cukun. Lawasha. Dutaiin. Surazawi. Soli. Soli biiu. Wedaun. Aromokek. Zeus. Deraz. Puchaun. Mukauuchas. Burri. Kench. Tavvauik. Chullapech. Tnikaiin. Ulla munus. Durri. Astak. Seall. Luttua. [ 139 ] Get up, to, Ghee, (clarified butter) Gibber, Gift, Girl, Give, to, Glad, Glitter, to, Glove, Go, Goat, a, Goat, (the wild) Goblet, God, God forbid, God knows. Gold, Good, Goose, Governor, Grain, Granddaughter, Grandfather, Grandmother, Grandson, Grape, Grass, Gratis, Grave, Graveyard, Gray, Graze, Grease, to. Great, Green, Grief, Grine, Grind, Grindstone, Gripes, T 2 Ushtun. Unuu. Tilaon. Prutu. Dubbulli. Pruttun. Satias or Melessah. PuUakun. Dosht punnii. Chiin. Wussoi, Sew. Wovai. Dogan. Dogan Nech&bii. Dogan Piassa. Sun or Sone. Bostah. Auni. Multalcan Wai. Unn. Nawahsi. Elutta. Ellai. Nawdh. Drass. Eniis. Edah. Davvat. Jyamtah. Xushurah. Cherraua. Sipaiin. U'llah. Pullishta or Zuz. Chitan. Chitan chiia. Pissiin. Zeonpisso. Shaulaw. [ UO ] Ground, Bhum. Grove, a, (as of trees) Chokajullah, or Bun. Guess, Binniah. Guest, Widesha. Guide, a, Zumastah. Guitar, Wans. Gum, Joe, Gun, Topak. Gunpowder, Ushai. Gunsmith, Chinnakurrah. H. Hail, Usshen. Hair, Chok or Kens. Half, Emullah. Halve, to, Eniulla chiin. Hammer, to. Tuckaun. Hand, Dosht, or chapal pain Handful, Emut. Handle, a, Mut. Handsome, Gadistah. Happen, Bun. Happy, Sail. Hard, Kukkdh. Hare, Soce. Haste, to, Suppkurrvvin. Hatred, Puchunnah. Hawk, Pagi, Wurna. Head, Shai. Healthy, Sarra Biiin. Heap, Kiit. Hear, to, Priinslah. Heart, Zi'i or Zudrusan. Hearth, Ivorah. Heat, Tuppi. Heat, to, Tuppiehun. Heavy, Galah. Heel, Kuttawa. Heifer, Asluinliih. Heir, Naislah. Helpless, Tiiigah. [ HI ] Hemp, Henceforth, Heuna, Herbage, Here, Heretofore, Hid, or Hidden, Hide, High, Hill, a, Hillock, Hire, to, Hire, Hold, to, Hole, Home, Honest, Honey, Hoof, Hope, Horn, Horm^t, Horse, Horseman, Hot, House, How, However, However many, How long. Humbug, to. Humbugged, Humility, Hundred, Hunger, Husband, Husk, I. 1, Ice, Bompai. Enareput. Dojawaiin. Eus. Atteu. Nusshlek. Chiinah. Cliiinawihun. mniah. Dah. Duk. Shantchun. Shiint. Dummun. Dus. Ammah. Poramatrun. Mechy. Bakhiirah. Batera. Singh. Bumah. Goah. Goah nishasta. Tuppi. A'unna. K Unas tab. Edadba. Kus be chit. Kuinosht. Dotunchun. Dotawin. Dungorahbu. Ponchwisi. Uwutta. Mach. Liis. Ye. Shin or A'chama. [ 142 ] Identifj, ZMn. Idiot, Beah. Idle, Jegalustah. Ignominy, Attaruh. Ignorance, Nassaillah. III, Namuchwah. Illness, Namuchabun. Immediatelj, Eneri. Immersed, Akkoi. Implements, Dumleh Kuttaf. Impossibility, Metanabiin. Impression, Bunduchiin. Improper, Utturrahken. Inclined, Wechun. Inconvenienced, Umlawi. Increase, Echui. Increase, to. Echuchun. Indebted, Denabosta. Indioro, Nil. Indubitably, Doven. Industrious, Koiedub chillah. Infant, Junna munna. Inferior, VVishtuk. Infidel, Sutterah. Infirm, Akilttah. Inform, to, Sudichiin. Informed of, Sudevvuni. Inhabit, to, Puttabun or TJttlbun Inhabited, Puttabusta. Injure, to. Malpussaun. Ink, Kachl Innocent, Ubburoh no kunstaii. Inquire, to. Kudaiin. Insect, Gowuk. Insert, to. Uttenchun. Inside, Uttraken. Instance, for. Sedat. Instantaneously, Enari. Instead, Wepuschi. Instruct, to, Pa Prugustaiin. Nultu. Wuh. Shov. Shew. Mala run. Trukri. Chagh. Tataich, Kushirial. Kachi. Toku or Hupu. Koschaun. Shahchiin. Chunaun. Shetullah. Mohur. Laiin. Putiimb. Chiin. Wiutun. Bi. Dummun. Botahzaiin. Eh. "Winshahiin. Pureshun. Chachun. Peshtii. Kushurial. Mokullah. MokuUaun. Nokur. Kiii. Sont. Sontdiis. Trawisidiis. Siun. Achur. Achur. [ 156 ] Shame, Share, Shark, Sharpen, Sheath, Shepherd, Sheep, Shield, a, Shine, to. Shirt, Shiver, to, Shoe, a, Shoemaker, Shoot, to, Shoot, Shoulder, Show, to. Shout, to, Shred, (of cloth) Shut, to, Sick, Sickness, Side, (direction) Side, the. Sight, Silent, Silly, Silver, Silversmith, Sing, to, Single, Sister, Sister-in-law, Sit, to, Six, Sixteen, Sixty, Skilful, Skin, Skin, (for holding water) Laj. Mutta. Loillah. Loillachun. Supah. Pashka. Wummi or rami. Kerah or Karai. PuUakun. Kamiz, or natperan. Didikaiin. Vachai. Chuwullah. Topuk, or kan w{un. Tawarasuk. KumtuUa. Waun. Saiechun. Epe truk chiel apech. Pepsaun. Namuchiabun. Namuchiabun. Ehen. Ponakin. Wiun. Tupchist. Beah. Chitta or borai. Uraikunah. Alli'il muttiin. Poken. SUs. Bea be Istri. Nechun. Sh{. Sullaish. Trewishi. Kushilla. Zuch, or cham. Mokah. [ 157 ] Sky, the, Slander, Slanting, Sleep, to, Slender, Slip, to, Slipping, Slowly, Small, Small-pox, Smartly, Smell, Smell, Snake, a, Sneeze, to. Snow, Soft, Soldier, a, Some, Somewhere, Son, Soon, Sordid, Sore, a, Sorrow, Sort, (what sort was it) Sour, Sow, to. Space, Spade, a. Sparkle, to, Sparrow, Speaking, Spear, Specimen, Spectacle, Spectator, Speech, Spit, to, Spit, to, (place on a spit) Adilu, or Dillu. Biita. Uttillah. Pnischiin. Lamustah. Siskaun. Siskistah. Achak Achak. Wustiik. Piiah. Sap Sap. Gun. Giinechun. Chumas, French I'ln. Zim. Gejalek. ITatta. Moshi. Akinizou. Put or Dublah. Asarbu. Utcherak. Doiis. Chitan. Kunas wimi. Chuckurlusta. Binachun. Tau. Chawdi. PuUakiin. Mingussa, or Minga chuku. Melachias. Shel. Yevrah. "Waun. Wench uUah. Muttriin, Thoi chtin. Lipaon. [ 158 ] Spite, Urush. Spontaneously, Tunmi. Spotted, Tikartin. Spring, the, "Washtnuk. Squeeze, to, Chipallun. Stage, a, Ewas, Stand, to. U'tibun. Standing, Utirristah. Star, Tavrah. Start, to. Chuiin. State, Kunast. Stay, to. Puttabun. Steal, to, Kuttamuschiin. Steep, a. U'n. Step-mother, Punah. Sterill, Slsistah. Stick, a. Donek. Stomach, Kutch. Stone, a, Drenh. Stool, a. Neshain. Stoop, to, Saiiinachun. Storm, a. Echu Dummu. Straight, Golah. Strange, U'rungabah. Stratagem, Lah. Strength, Kaat. Strict, Kukka. Strike, Biiin. String, Siiturek. Stumble, to. Tingabiin. Stump, U'stum Kun. Subdue, l/nachmi. Suck, to. Zurprun. Sufficient, Bai. Sugar, Shakar. Summer, Vasant. Summit, Udda be Shai. Sunrise, Sui ba Nisstin. Sunset, Sui Neshun. Sunshine, Burbura gurrusb [ 159 ] Superior, Supposition, Surety, Surround, to. Survive, to. Suspect, to, Swallow, to, Swear, to. Sweep, to. Sweet, to, Swift, Swell, to, Swim, to. Switch, Sword, a, T. Tail, Take, to. Take away, to, Take off, to. Talk, to, Tall, Tame, Tanner, Target, Taste, to. Tear, to. Tear, a. Tease, to. Teat, a, Tell, to, Tempest, Temple, a, Tent, a, Terrify, to, Terror, Test, to, Than, That, Thaw, Deshtu. Eua bon. Purrah. Urratun, or urrardn. Durren. Ubiiali wenun. Turrailn. DegaruD. Shiniin. Mourstah. Sunnullah. Upsiin. Ean biin. Lustawah. Tarwali. Domch. ITichuu. Goragun. Bersaiiu, Milaechun. Dungulustah. Zuuia bustah. Shoellah. K^ntdh. Suttua. Trokaun. Trokanbcslash. Tuppaiin. Chiichu. ]\Juttrun. Echii dummu. Deahma. Pochabama. Widekaiin. Wik. Ettachun. Tokunnuh. Seh. Wiliin. [ 100 ] Theft, Then, There, Therefore, Thigh, the, Thin, Third, Thirsty, Thorn, a, Thorns, (bushes) Thousand, Thread, Threaten, to, Three, Threshold, Throat, Through and through, Thoroughbred, Throw, to, Throw away, to, Throw down, to, Thrust in, Thumb, Thunder, Thus, Tidings, Tie, to. Tiger, a. Tight, Tighten, to. Till, Till, to, Time, Time, Tired, To, Tobacco, To-day, Toe, To-morrow, Kuttamus. Situn. Sitaii. Ekakeaw, Pakancha. Degah. Tream. Awchit. Kachlk. Wah. Hazar. Suth. Zullakaun. Tre. Durshahi. Gurrunna and Murrik. Wipaturrun. Se^l. Wiun. l/nachun. Naruugavin. TJtturnashun. Ulah ungu. Trankyas. Edah. Slmdi. GruutuD. Si. Ivukkah. Kukkachun. Setaunsht. K^kiichachdn. Ehpar. Par. Kasarem. Setaunsht. Tamakii. Enu. Kiira ba ungu. Jamek. [ K-'l ] Tongue, To-night, Too, Tooth, Top, the, Torch, a, Touch, to, 'JVain, to, Treacheiy, Treacle, Tree, Trouble, to, Trial, Tribe, Trouble, True, Try, to. Tumble, Turban, Troop, Turn back, Twelve, Twenty, Twice, Twist, to, Two, XJ. Ugly, Ulcer, Unanimity, Unawai'e, Uncle, Unclean, Uncommon, Undeceive, to. Under, Understand, to. Undoubtedly, Undress, to, Unemployed, Y Jip. Enu Awmza. Urn. Diint. Sliai. Luppah. Diish dungauu. Zamakurauu. Lah. Meclii. Ushtdn. Didaekaiin. EttachuQ. Duni. Cliittan, or TingaUiiu. Poron. Ettacliiin. Orcsurluu. Pagrai. Kalaki. Pultari chiln. Bash. Washi. Du'par. A'lUiiiu. Du'. Uchurrah. Nuswran. Sunazuu. Nasuddi. Kench tantiilii. JN'apureishlah. Nahittu. Pawiiu. Un. Paun. Kanat be kanafc. Chullapech bersaun. Koiduu. [ 163 ] Unfortuniitp, Ubrah Melultah. Ungird, (the loins) Dulvka Surraiin. Unhappy, Silanchullah. Uninformed, Nasuddi. Unite, to, Etaw chun. Unless, Ugur. Unmarried, (bachelor) Isti noaddah. Unripe, Napuchistah. Unsheath, to, Wishaun. Until, Kiltiusht. Untrue, Duttila. Unveil, to, Chadur Oshaiin. Up, Ui tean. Upon, Uipun. Upright, Uitenistah. Useful, Koi. V. Vacant, Sun. Vain, Ubrah. Valiant, Simrustah. Valley, Shu. Valuable, Echii Mul. Vanquish, to, Unachun. Vapour, Diim. Variegated, Chitturrah. Vegetable, Kunkuru. Vein, a, Laishing, Vengeance, Kurran. Venom, Wesh. Verdant, PuUushah. Vessel, a. Dumli. Vex, to, Tubbaun. Vexed, Tubba, or Tengah Victuals, Euni. Vigilant, Bugislah. Village, Desh. Villager, Deslimilli. Violence, Kaat. Violin, Warij. Virgin, a, Dubli ilrti. i [ 163 ] Voice, Vomit, to, W. Wager, to, Waist, Waist, to. Wake, to, v. n. Waken, to, v. a. Walk, a. Walk, to, Walking stick, Wall, a, Walnut, a, Wander, to, Want, to. War, Warm, Warm, to. Warn, (to admouisli) Wash, Watchful, Water, Water, to, Water-course, Water-melon, Water-mill, Water-pot, Wave, a, Wax, Way, Weak, Wealthy, Weapons, Wear, to, Weariness, Water-wagtail, Weave, to, Weep, to. Weeping, Weigh, to, Y 2 Chah. LTi duttuu. Bonahtadn. Dukka. Nashun. Biigiia. Biigaun. Mashuu. Chun. l)ouek. Barkant. Zoun. Kuttiin. Sachun. Such. Tuppi. Tu[)pauii. Chusauu. Muspek. E16ch. An. Anprun. Aknutah. Hondvvana. Doshai. Kumruch. Kiugir. Puppak. Puut. Diggiih. Maldah, or Erah Mauus. Showash. Ummachiin. Hussarda. Gadiilik. Zenchun, or V/iiiiu. LTnin. Urassah. Tulliiu. [ 'G4 ] Weight, Well, a. West, "Wet, Wheat, When, Whence, Whenever, Where, Wherefore, Whether, Whet-stone, a. Whirlpool, a, While, AV hither. Who, Whole, Why. Wide, Width, Widow, Wife, a. Wild, Will, Wind, Wind, to, V. a. Window, Wine, Wing, (of a bird) Wink, Window, to, Winter, Wipe, to, Wisdom, Wise, Wish, to. With, Within, Wither, to, Withdraw, Sul. Awwi saiin. Soi poi le ken. Tripullah. Glim. Koi wai. Akane ba. Koi pa koi. Akinawa. Kasi kitti an. Za. Kirumwat. Girum. Kashirah. Akinnii. Ki. Supperokeboi. Kussah. Witchti. Witchtabiin. Kukur. Mewchi. Uddatellah. Chft. Damti. Tuptaiin. Daii. Chiikri (new), Pan (old.) Dramul. Atehiputuk. Kotiin. Zain. Makiin. Kushilla. Paillah. Wichtin. Meli. Uttaken. Che chenbeon, Bersadn. [ 1^>5 ] Witness, Sakh. Wolf, a, DiUah. Woman, ]Mu>hai. Wonder, Kurarat. Wood, Dew. Wooden, Dewbah. Wool, Wurruk. Word, a, Work, Melah. Koi. World, Dunya. Worm, Gowruk. Worthy, Sluip. Wound, a, Chup. Wrap up. Tuptiiiin. Wretch, Ubrah Merultah Wring, to, Siptaun. Wrist, tlie, Gorek. Will, Chittariin. Y. Tear, the. Weh. Yeast, Dru. Yellow, Urrelah. Y^es, Ah. Yesterday, Di'is. Yesterday, (the 1 day hefore) Kutrcm. Yesternight, Awsiza. Young, (of an animal) Wushtuk. Younger, (junior) Kcnslitii. Youth, a, Lut. A few Sentences in this Language. Has your illness abated ? Where is your house ? God is above, He gave me much abuse, He accounts me a friend, Kaniachea apilok bii ? Toba amah akenew wii ? \Iti Dagon Wii. Sika echu sukkun ch;iza. Ede ema pullare zan. [ 1C6 1 You would say that another sun was produced above the sun. Abstain from flesh, Be not afraid of me, After spring. Agree to this proposal, Is your father alive ? Hast tliou come alone ? It behoves you to go, What is your name ? Do you drink wine ? In your country, do they dance ? Is the road bad ? Are there bears in Kaffiristan ? How many towers are there ? Eleshek sore kua urungah sore litilla bera. Unnah new. Ekunna ha wedi. Shure kua pulaken. Eu mela boi. Tviba tata ginlah wa ? Tu poken ash ? Tusa emella echun bostah. Tti ba nam av ? Chukri piash ? Ema ba desh ukna nali chast ? Punt abraiwa ? Ema badesh akna berew wa ? Kitti shuhr war ? tri ma tawi shorn l/i ma tawi drum Andre shahr gigaien Kuchun muttrungoba Wellu wassii astan Kaffir Song. 1 Gull lid i shad a* Gulliidi .shtidir Chud Shall wisha Shins: chiid ema ba. Deh pruttum Deh dosh pruttum Ema loa woras Asur shl nishi shaii Ema zumuri san. Slim punni Slim puuni Ema ba du sussumma bulchiid Ba kru child ema ba Shurik bulll na buUi. Enar VVaie dublik Suttrin dublik, Ude deh gunush. Emar suthin dublik Charka dosht emalle ge Assonkela add melawi. [ 167 ] Literal translation of the ahove. I have won that which is fairei* than a " monal" pleasant 1 have won that wliich is fairer than a fairy la the city is a tinkling of hangles The nomades have been outstripped by me in wealth As if there had been a clattering of horns at my door for years and days, 2 God has given me a lump of gold God has given me in my hand a lump of gold My steel gun !* there shall be constant sounds of joy at my door, And when I am seated at a spring my head shall nod to the sound of my feet, My places of pleasure are the envy of ray enemies. 3 I am loved by a Waie girl. I am loved by a Pathan girl, Tlie Pathau girl at her wheel gave me a sign, And at noon we embraced on the plain. * A steel gun is the most valuable thing a Kaftlr knows of in this world. Tlic sound of h'jrns in the last line of No. 1 is the sound of sheep or goat hoi'us striking together as they play in a flock. APPENDIX G. Sjad Nur Muliamuiad on his way back from Tehran, considering it possibl^i that a British force might be pushed in that direction via Kandahar, made especial inquiries on the various routes ; especially with regard to supplies and water for an army ; and I have taken advantage of these notes to detail the following, irrespective of the great road by Mashad and Herat, by which Kandahar may be approached ; as all these concentrate upon Farrah, perhaps it will be most convenient to make it our starting point. The routes from Farrah to Semmun and Naishapur, are given in Ferncr's Caravan Journeys, and agree with the Syad's account. From Farrah to Benjun. Killa-i kah, ten parasangs. — A small Nurzaie encampment with plenty of water. Chah-i-dum. eight parasangs. — At about four miles from the last ground, the Hara road has to be forded. Water of the encamping ground from springs, Darogh, five parasangs. — This is a considerable place iu the midst of culti- vation ; a strip of this sort of country, some two or three miles in depth, runs along the whole way to Birgiin, parallel to the range on the cast forming the water-shed line of the Hara road. Sir-i-l>esha, four parasangs. — Has sixty houses, and water from wells. Mut, four parasangs. — A fort on a mound, surrounded by a village ; water from wells. Birgun, four parasangs. — A considerable town of Khorasan. From Birjun to Tun, is fifteen parasangs, or three short marches, over a cultivated country covered with villages. Some years ago a Persian army marched from Tiin to Tehran in seven days. Tun is a considerable place and supplies are abundant, but the population are principally pastoral, possessing large herds of camels and goats. Water from karezes. From Tiin, roads strike off to Mashad, Tehran, and yezd ; to the latter town the following is the route, and is known as the kah-i-kegi Shuturan ; it runs along a partially cultivated country between a range of hills running N. E. and S. W. and an immense desert stretching southwards towards Khabbas and Kinnan ; the marches are — [ 169 ] Robali Shove, seven parasangs. — Just on the border of the desert, but has plenty of water. Bushruea, seven parasangs. — Water abundant, Deh Muhamn)ad, ten parasangs. — 'Ibis place contains about one hundred houses, and has a good supply of water. Tubbus, ten parasangs, in the midst of a comparatively well cultivated tract ; it contains about two or three thousand houses, and must not be mistaken for the Tubbus Ghozan to the east of Birjun. Turali, six parasangs. — Small place, water fi-oni wells. Kulnaiz, eiglit parasangs. — Ditto, water from springs. Hobat-i-Khan, fifteen parasangs, three of which are through heavy sand ; this portion of the road is frequently unsafe owing to occasional predatory visits from marauding Beluehis. Pista Cadon, eiglit parasangs. — Water scarce. Allahabad, five parasangs. — Tolerable place, water scarce. Saghan, fourteen parasangs. — Here again there is cultivation, and water from karezas ; but a large force would find water scarce. Karamuk, six parasangs, water plentiful. Anjira, six ditto ditto. Yezd, six ditto. — Yezd is a great place for Par»{s, many of whom have come from Bombay ; the city is larger than Kandahar. From Kirinan to Yezd is seventy-one parasungs ; the country varies in width from two to ten parasangs, and road runs along a valky between two raiiii;es but crossiiifj several Kutlials. From Kirman to Birjun, the encampments are almost all in places generally occupied by Khorassani and Iraki herdsmen. The names of the marches are as folluws : — Khost, six parasangs. Hamlin, six ditto. Hullali, four ditto. Baghalicha, four ditto. Naibaud, sixteen ditto. — No water on this march. This is a walled town with a good deal of cultivation about it, population mixed, Persian and Belluchi ; country hilly, water plentiful from springs at base of hills. Chilpya, twelve parasangs ; water only for one kafilah at a time. Darband, eight ditto. — No water on the road. Rohawa, eleven ditto. — This place contains five or six hundred houses in the midst of groves of trees — water plentiful from karezas. liohamat Abibad, ten parasangs ; water enough for one kafilah at a time. z [ 170 ] Sri-i-Assiali, ten parasangs ; country cultivated, water plentiful and some supplies. Kirman, seven parasangs. N. B. — The above is the only route by which water is procurable for any thing like a body of men ; the otlier route to Kirman from Farrah via Sansh, Jowain, Selim and Khubbus, you have to go thirty parasangs at a time without water: JN'adir Shah attempted to dig wells along this line, but failed to obtain water. One more route remains from Farrah to Kirman, or rather from Siestan, and which was the one traversed by the conquering force of the Ghilzies, who under Tlir Weis, one hundred and thirty years before Nadir Shah marched and captured Kirman by this route. From Sekulia, in Seistan to — Wurmul, four parasangs. — A small Beliichi village with plenty of brackish water. Sir-i-Shela, eight parasangs. — The Shela comes out of the Siestan lake but only flows when the latter is full. Gulabuk, six parasangs. — A spring on the neutral desert between Kirma- mand Belfichistan. Durwaza-i-Nadir.— Here is a plentiful supply of water but no village. Giirg, sixteen parasangs ; over a barren hilly country. Nurmasher, ten parasangs. — A tolerable city inhabited by Beluchis, who are Shiahs, subjects of Persia ; they are forcibly converted. Kirman, seven short marclies, each from four to five parasangs ; water sufficient at each for a large katilah. [ 171 ] GENERAL AND MEDICAL REPORT OF THE KANDAHAR MISSION. The following matter is divide'l into three sections, viz. : — 1. — A brief description of the country traversed bv the Mission on its march from Kohat to Kandahar. IL — Some observations on Affghanistan and the AfFghans. III. — Report of the Kandahar Dispensary. A Brief Description op the Country betweex KcmAT a>-d Kaxdahar. The country lying between Kohat and Kandahar, though of a mountainous nature throughout, may, for convenience of description, be divided into an eastern and a western portion, differing from each other in physical cliaracter- istics, the high ground in the vicinity of Ghazni being taken as the watershed line between tliem. The waters of the eastern division flow tliroufjh a country abounding in small fertile valleys and well-wooded hills, and ultimately join the great stream of the Indus, or l>y reason of the quantity drawn off for purposes of cultivation, lose themselves in the soil. Those of the western division on the other hand traverse a country characterized by low ranges of bare rocky hills separating and bounding extensive sandy and gravelly plains or steppes and flow into the Lake Hamun in Sistfin. Eastern Division. — The eastern division extending from Kohat to Ghazni comprizes the districts of Mirwdnzai, Kurram, Hanab, Haziirdaraklit, and Logar. The general aspect of the country presents an intricate net work of small valleys and dells, whose elevation above the sea increases as they approach Hazardarakht, where they attain their highest, and which are separated from each other by elevated plateaus or table lands, the summer pasture grounds of several nouiade tribes. The rock formation of the country' is the mountain limestone, presenting in some places outcroppings of a friable grey slate, the strata of which are much distorted, and overlaid at intervals by extensive formations of conglomerate, which are sometimes found occupying the highest elevations. The vegetation varies with the elevation above the sea, and is briefly noticed in the following concise description of the several disti icts. z 2 [ 172 ] Mirivdnzai. — Mirwanzai presents a very irregular aspect. The lower division consists of numerous small circumscribed and well cultivated valleys in which the plane, poplar, willow, the fig, and the mulberry, together with the apple, the apricot, and other orchard trees, flourish abundantly ; whilst on tlie other hand the raviney wastes of the upper division are covered with a brushwood of the wild olive, the wild privet, the jujube or "hair," mimosa, and other thorny bushes, broken here and there by grassy tracts, the summer grazing grounds of the Waziiis, who wander from one to the other with their families and flocks. This tribe possesses a noted breed of horses, distinguished by a peculiar twist and curve of the ears. Tlie breed is of medium height, wiry, hai'd}', hiyh-tempered, and inclined to be vicious, and is said to have sprung from stock orii^iiuilly brought from Persia by Nadir Shall. Their acquisition by the Waziiis is attributed by some accounts to their dexterity in thieving whilst others ascribe it to the liberality of Nadir, who dispersed his gifts with a free hand during his march into Hindustan. The dwarf palm, a variety of chamcerops called by the natives " mazari," abounds all over " Mirwanzai," and is applied to a variety of useful purposes by the inhabitants, Hand-punkhas and mats are plaited from the leaf cut into strips : the fibres of the leaf and its stalk, separated from each other and their parenchyma by maceration and braising in water, are twisted into cords and ropes. The former are used for making baggage nets, the " trangar" of the natives, the net-work of " charpaies," &c., and the latter for fixing the apparatus of their Persian wheels, &c. Sandals "chapta" universally worn by these Highlanders, and admii-ably adapted for walking over rocky ground, are made from the strong fibres of the leaf stalk. In the axil of the sheathing petiole, a fine downy wool is found, this is used by the natives as tinder, and they assert that when prepared by steeping in the sap of the mulberry tree and dried, it never fails to burn throughout. The white embryo leaves in the centre of the leaf bud have a sweet astringent taste and are often used as a remedy for diarrhoea, &c. When the young leaves begin to be developed they lose their sweet taste and become sour and astringent, and are then used as a purgative, chiefly, however, for horses and cattle. The wealth of the inhabitants of Mirwanzai consists principally of cattle, goats and slieep, of these the cows are a lean and dwarf breed and produce but little milk. The soil which is for the most part gravelly, with only a scanty deposit of alluvium, is not much cultivated, owing to constant feuds among the inhabitants, who are " Bangashes" or " Bangakhs," as well as the scarcity of water. Since it has been under the British rule, however, a much larger portion of land has been brought under the plough than previously, a pleasing instance of the confidence inspired by a just and protecting Government. A [ 173 ] considerable portion of the cultivation is " lallam" that is dependent on the rains for irrigation. That which is " a&i" or regularly irrigated by artificial means, is watered by streams issuing from springs, or from tanks of rain-water in the neighbourhood. Wheat, barley, and pulse (" masur^') are gathered in the spring harvest, and millet, madge, pulse ("" mong'^) and cotton in the autumn harvest. The cotton is said to be of inferior quality, yielding i fibre to f seeds, whilst that grown in Peshawar yields \ fibre to f seeds. From the same plant, however, three and sometimes four crops are realized^ In the spring the dry and apparently dead plants of the preceding year, are cut down close to the ground, which is then plouglied and freely watered. The plants sprout in due time and produce, it is said, a better crop each succeeding season under similar treatment, until the fourth year, after which they perish. A principal occupation of the inhabitants and a source of wealth is the manufacture of turbans (''lungi"). These are largt ly produced through- out Miruanzai, but especially in Hangu which vies with Peshawar in the quality of its manufacture. The mission started from Peshawar on the 13th Marcli, 1S57, and leaving Kohat on the 15th, entered the Mirwanzai country and marching through it arrived at Thai on the river Kurram, its boundary on the west, on the 20th March. At this season of the year the climate of JMirwanzai is cool and pleasant. The bracing morning air, the beautiful scenery of green valleys and well wooded hills in Lower Mirwanzai with a distant view between them of a bleak brown-backed moor in the upper division of tlie district brought to mind the scenery of the south-west of England. The average of six days' temperature, from the 15th to the 20th March inclusive was 4 A. M. 51 F. ; 1 P. M. sun 108; tent 80; 8 P. M. 67 F. The months of July, August, September and a part of October are described by the natives as very hot and unhealthy, and it is not uncommon at this season for whole villages to be at once prostrated with fever. In the natural formation of the country — small valleys shut in on all sides by hills which, by obstructing the free circulation of winds, and by reflecting the solar rays add greatly to the intensity of the heat, and thus facilitate the liberation without the dissipation by winds of the obnoxious gasses given off from decaying animal anc^ vegetable remains, — and the filthy dwellings and dirty habits of the peo[)le, a sulK- cicnt cause for disease will be found. Intennittents are common throusrh- out the year though they prevail in the autumn and are remarkable for the frequency of the tertian form. Impetiginous afi'ections of the scalp and allied skin diseases appeared to be very common amongst the villagers, who did not impress me as being a very healthy or robust race. Kurram. — On the 21st March the mission having been joined at Thai by [ 174 ] the Affghan escort, consisting of some companies of a regular Affghan regi- ment dressed in the ragged cast-off clothing of our Indian army, and a posse of wild looking sowars habited in a variety of Affghan dresses, armed with almost every kind of weapon from a lance to a blunderbuss and mounted on wiry shaggy little horses that had as wild a look as their riders, we forded the river Kurram a little way above the village of Thai and entered the district of Kurram. Winding for about eighteen miles by a difficult path over a wilderness of irregular stony hills presenting here and there outcroppings of micaceous slate and without a sign of habitation or animal life, whilst the vegetable kingdom was but sparely represented by a few hardy mimosse, jujube, and other thorny bushes, we again reached the river and marching henceforward along its course, fording it several times " en routt?" encamped at the village of Habib Kila, near Paiwar on the 28th March. The distance is about sixty miles from Thai and the country rises all the way. Tlie scenery here is gi'and indeed. Ever hoary " *Spm ^7mr" looks down in grave majesty on the rich fields and pleasant orchards stretched at his feet and cleft by the noisy bubbling Kurram, whose waters are as clear and crystal as the snows from which they proceed. " Spin ffhar^' or " Sufed koJi' (white mountain in Pukh- stau and Persian respectively) stretching east and west, separates the valley of Kurram from that of Jelalabad. Its southern face presents three distinct ranges rising one above the other, separated by narrow elevated valleys and up to the snow itself on the highest range is thickly clothed with forests of mao'nificent pines, cedars, the arbor vitse, the walnut, the wild almond, and, lower down, oaks and ash trees, &c. At different spots in the openings of the forests are rich grassy slopes, watered by numerous springs, the neighbourhood of which abounds in several genera of the ranunculus and composite orders and wliich afford pasture to the herds of mountain deer, wild goats and ibex, which with hears, leopards and wolves, are the principal wild inhabitants of this mountain. Kurram is well cultivated and contains a large number of villages in close propinquity along the course of its river. Each is enclosed by a square mud wall with a»to\ver at two of the diagonal angles, flanking the sides. The gate is in the centre of one side and usually the top of the wall all round is armed with a " cheveux de frize'' of thorn bushes as a protection against robbers at night. Rice is the principal crop raised in this district, tliough wheat, cotton, and barley, &c. are also cultivated. The grain is generally stored in caves, the apertures of which are then built up, and being always in the sides of small conglomerate hillocks on which the villages are built or in their immediate [ 175 ] viciiiitv, are easily defended. Water is abundant every where (except at tlie base of Sufed-koh which is occupied by a stony and uncultivated plateau some twenty miles hj five), and irrigation is rendered facile by the water of the river and that of the numerous streams flowing from the adjacent moun- tains towards it, being led ofi" in watercourses in all directions and at various heights. Many of the villages in Kurram are ornamented by stately " cliinaor" or plane trees of great height and beauty. A few miles east of the Kurram Fort, (the head quarters of Sirdar Muhammad Azim Khan, Governor of Kurram and Khost) is an extensive grove of fine old mulberry trees said to have been planted by order of the Emperor Shah Jehan, who laid out a pleasure garden at this spot and called it " Faiz JSagh." The name and these weatherworn old " tuts" are all that now remain of the once charming and beautiful garden, whose former terraces and parterres have long since been obliterated in rice Bwamps. The climate of Kurram at this season is very bracing and agreeable. For a month or six weeks m midwinter, the weather is described as very severe, owing to the elevation of the valley above the sea (about feet, accord- ing to Prinsep's tables, at the Kurram Fort, water boiling here at F. with the temperature of the atmosphere at F) and its proximity to the snowy range, but on the other hand the hot months are tempered by cool and refreshing breezes from that region. The average of seven days' temperature from the 22nd to the 2Sth March inclusive was at 5 A. M. 5J; 20 F. 1 P. M sun 98.20. tent 75. 8 p. m. 58.30 F. On the return of the mission later in the season, the average of six days' temperature, from the 11th to the 16th of June inclusive was at 3 A. M. 63 F. 1 p. m. sun 118. tent 65.15 8 P. M. 73 F. The chief tribes inhabiting Kurram are the " Turi'* and *' Zimukht," gener- ally speaking a healthy and hai-dy peuple. Though at every encamping gi'ound my tent was surrounded by a motley crowd of men, women and children, eager ap[)licants for medicine, which they swallowed with undisguised avidity and many sneaked into my tent a second time in hopes of not being recognized and getting a second dose. Fever of the intermittent type with its ordinary sequelae, more particularly enlarged spleen — and in some cases it was enormously so, — was the prevailing form of disease. Fevers are said to be most prevalent during the months of July, August, and September, the season during which the rice harvest is gathered. They commence with the quotidian form and soon changing to the tertian, cling to the patient for two or more years, ulti- mately completely destroying his health by the derangement ensuing to the abdominal viscera, the liver and spleen. Thoracic aEfections also appeared common, a few cases examined with the stethoscope revealed much organic [ 176 ] derangement, attributable, however, more to previous acute attacks of inflamma- tion on the lungs and its membranes than to tubercular phthisis. The dress of the Turi consists of a red conical skull cap about six inches high, loose trovFsers of coarse cotton, gathered in and fastened close for about four inches above the ankle, and a loose shirt of coarse cotton sometimes dyed blue. In the winter a large sheepskin cloak reaching from head to foot is vvorn in addition, tlie wool being turned inwards except in exposure to rain when it is reversed. And sometimes a turban or " lungi'^ in which blue, red and yellow are conspicuous colours, is worn round the head. The " Tiiris" never move out without being armed to the teeth : most carry the Affghan knife and jazail. Tor every Tiiri labouring in the field there are usually three or four keeping a sharp look out to prevent surprise by an enemy. We frequently passed small bands of men returning from the fields, all of whom were armed with offensive weapons whilst but one or two carried the imple- ments of industry. This tribe observe a curious custom among tliemselves indicative of the wild and contentious life they lead. On the advent of a young " Tiiri" into the world, he is at once taken from his mother and passed several times through a hole in the wall of the house, whilst a salute of nine shots is fired over him in order to accustom him from birth to a sound he is destined to hear constantly through life without flinching. The unconscious infant is at the same time exhorted to follow in the steps of his father and with heart and hand to be a thief. The Turis being "_^Mas" are naturally the hereditary enemies of their " Sunni" neighbours the " Jdc[is" with whom as well as amongst themselves, they are eternally at enmity and petty warfare. Haryhh. — Our direct route by the Paiwar Kotal having been barricaded with rocks and felled trees by the hostile Jagis to oppose our progress, tlie mission made a detour to the north and ascended the " Spin Gaice''' (white cow) Kotal on the 29th March, it having been previously taken possession of by the infantry and some mountain guns of our Affghan escort. This Kotal is a few miles north of the Pewar pass though on the same spur of the Sufed Koh, and which rising about 1000 feet above the valley runs north and south and separates the district of Kurraui from that of Haryab. The ascent was by a steep stony path (easier, however, tlian the Paiwar, by which route the mission returned) covered at intervals with patches of frozen snow on which our horses' hoofs left no impression, and wound through a labyrinth of splendid pines, cedars (cedrus deodara) and oaks, among which the Arbor Vitae (Thuja orientaUs) was thickly scattered, whilst the descent by the equally steep and more stony bed of the Haryab, a rapid little mountain-torrent a tributary of the Kurram, led us through an Alpine country to our camp at AUikhsl a large and scattered village about 18 miles from Paiwar. The villages passed during [ 177 ] this marcli are of peculiar construction, seldom containing more than four or five houses, usually situated on commanding eminences or in retired little glens. Those in the latter situation are provided with a detached tower of observation, in some instances supported on poles of pine wood and ascended by a ladder. Each house is detached, and forms a little fort of itself. The thick walls of stone and mud are pierced by numerous holes that serve the threefold pur- poses of ventilators, chimneys and loop-holes for firing through. The strong wooden door occupies the centre of one side, whilst the flat roof communicates by a trap door and ladder (formed of the trunk of a tree, notched so as to form steps when the wood is fixed in a slanting position) with the interior, an open space sunk below the level of the ground and with galleries all round that shelter the family as well as their cattle, consisting of a few cows, goats, and horses, together with stores of grain, fodder and fuel, the Jagis beino- accustomed to be constantly beseiged either by the snow or by enemies. At Alikhel we bad an opportunity of observing how the Jagis prepare them- selves for the fight, without however fighting. During the march we were passed by several bands of men armed with Aflghan knives, jazail, &c. who, as they passed us, indulged in many menacing actions and afterwards collected round our camp to upwards of a thousand men and till CTening treated us to a variety of hostile demonstrations, and with jeering yells, war-songs and dances accompanied by the native fife and drum (the former has much the sound of the Scotch bagpipe) worked themselves up to a degree of excitement barely restrainable. Tlie heights around camp were crowned by large bands of Jsl^is (from 200 to 300 men in each) who, stamping round and round in a circle, o-esti- culated and flourished their great knives in harmony with the pathos of some exciting war-song, at the conclusion of which, giving a shrill and pro- longed yell that reverberated from hill to hill, they ranged themselves in a column two or three abreast and proceeded slowly round our camp chauntino- an impressive and passionate war-song varied at regular intervals by a chorus " look lioh ah hah'' repeated in different keys by several voices in a peculiar hollow bass tone. At the last syllable of the chorus, each man sprung up on one leg and flourished his knife overhead, skipped a step forwards, whilst the numerous powder-flasks and other paraphernalia of his jazail suspended around his waist, dangling in the air, and his long loose hair blown about in confusion, added greater wildness to his features and actions. In the evenin"" the crowds dispersed and left us on the look out for a night attack, which did not however occur. At Alikhel water boils at 198 F. with the temperature of the air at IS F. This, according to Prinsep's tables, gives an approximate elevation above thy sea of about 750j feet. 2 A [ 178 ] At daylight on tlio SOtli March we struck camp amidst the yelllug and howling of largely increased bands of Jagis who indulged in similar demonstra- tions to those of 3'esterday. After a delay of some four hours caused by the road two miles ahead of us being closed by a body of several thousands of Jagis (the whole tribe having united under the banner of an " Akhunzsida" of the " GJidmuiiMeV clan) we advanced, an arrangement having been sworn to on the Kuran, between the commandant of our Affghan escort and the leader of the Jagis that we should proceed in peace. Our road traversed a rugged country of a coarse gravelly soil, and cut up by numerous deep and wide ravines and led through several detached hamlets crowded with armed Jagis (who remained perfectly quiet in observance of their oath) and at the sixth mile brought us to the village of Eokyan near which we encamped. Rokyan is a good sized village consisting of many scattered houses sur- rounded by a few fruit trees and corn fields ; the former were already in blossom, and the latter well advanced with their spring crops of wheat, &c. The main portion of Kokyiiu is situated at the entrance of the Haziirdarakht defile and is overhung by the abrupt shoulder of a towering rocky spur of the Sufed Koh. Honey is produced here in abundance, almost every house possessing its bee-hives. Bronchocele is not an uncommon disease in this district, and it is said to be equally prevalent in the valley of Jalalabad on the opposite side of the Sufed Koh. I observed several cases of this disease during the day and in Eokyan alone three cases applied to me for relief, among a crowd of other applicants for medicines, &e. who surrounded my tent the greater part of the day, and amongst the number very many who in the morning all bristling with arms, had opposed our progress. All in real need of medicine were supplied without distinction, provided they applied for it unarmed and in a proper manner. The Jagis are a lean hardy and healthy race, though at first the sight of their oily and smoked skins, caused by their constant contact with the smoke of pine wood, their only fuel, tends to disparage the idea, but the great number of hale grey beai-ds or rather smoked beards met with, fully supports the character for healthfulness assigned to the climate of this district by its inhabitants. This tribe though subjects of the Cabul government, lead a wild and partially independent life. They are desperate robbers and cultivate only sufficient ground to supply their wants. Rice and corn are their chief crops. They are not reckoned a brave race, nor are they feared by their neighbours the Gilzais, who often make a raid into the country and carry off all the women and cattle, they can lay hands on and chop up the men. HazdrdaraTclit. — March 31st from Eokyan to Hazar or JNeba-Margha, a Ghilzai thauuah situated on an elevated table laud occupying the summit of [ 1"9 ] one of the main spurs of the Sufed Koh. Tsventj miles ; our road for the first sixteen miles ascended through the narrow winding defile of Hazardarakht so named from a small forest of pines, cedars and the arbor vita? occupying its centre. Near this spot is a small thannah that marks the limit between the Jagis and Ghilzais. The heights bounding the deflle on either side are formed mainly of limestone, much broken on the surface and presenting, here and there, outcroppings of soft grey slate in vertical and distorted strata. Except where the defile branches off in little glens that winding northward between the hills convey their drainage into the maiu channel, the opposite heights are nowhere more than six hundred, nor less than eighty yards apart, whilst their steep, and in many places perpendicular sides are thickly covered to the very bottom, with pines, cedars, the arbor vitae and a few oaks, and on the return journey of the mission, about ten weeks later in the season, yellow, white and pink dog roses, the dwarf laburnum and a variety of umbelliferous and labrite plants variegated the hill-sides with their many-colored flowers. The interval between, forms the stony bed of a mountain torrent, at this date but of small calibre ; the raging violence of its stream at certain seasons, however, is indicated by tlie great fragments of rocks and the enormous uprooted trees that strew its surface. Near the end of the defile we ascended the short but steep Surkhai Kotal so named from the red colour of its soil, and by a gradual descent emerged on the tableland of H:izar. This plateau is buried under snow for about half the year, although at this season only a few detached snow fields conceal the summer grazing grounds of the Ghilzais, who collect here in large numbers with their families and flocks during the spring and summer months from April to August, for the sake of the pasture, a short sweet grass and a stunted growth of Artemisia, both of which are grazed indiscriminately. The numerous grave-yards scattered over the plain indicate considerable mortality amongst the visitors of this bleak and dreary region. Each grave yard is enclosed within a low wall of loose stones whilst poles fixed upright within them and ornamented with pendent ibex and wild goat's horns and coloured rags point out their position on the extensive level. At this season the snowy heights around Hazar present but a scanty growth of vegetation. A few arbor vitae and juniper shrubs, scattered here and there just suffice to deprive them of a totally barren aspect. And except a stunted growth of absinth, thistles, orchids and lilies, readily eaten by hungry cattle and horses, there is no forage for man and beast for twenty or thirty miles around. The young and succulent leaves of the orchis and lily were cooked and eaten as pot herbs by our camp followers. At Hazar water boils at 195 F. with the temperature of the air at 55 F. Approximate elevation above the sea abuut 93S2 feet, this is according to Prinscp's tables. [ 180 ] April 1st, sir lick camp nt 5 a. m. at which hour the thermometer stood at 26 F. in the open air. The night was searchingly cold and four of the horses of our party died from its effects during the night. Water brought from a neighbouring spring froze at once on being poured into a metal basin. At 5.30 A. M. proceeded on our march and by a gradual rise of three miles ascended the Shutur-gardan (camel's neck) a term applied generally to any easy ascent, whilst Kotal signifies a steep and difficult one. The height of Shutur-gardan Kotal is about 1000 feet above the valley of Hazar and the height of the surrounding peaks is about 800 feet still higher. This peak on the return journey of the mission on the 8th June was dotted here and there with patches of snow. At this date also in the adjoining Hazar valley the thermometer stood at 30 F. at 4* A. M. From the summit of Shutur-gardan we obtained a grand view of the wildly precipitous mountains around, already fast parting with their snowy covering and exposing their nearly entire naked- ness of vegetation. Far away to the north, Hindu Kush sparkled in the morning sun : in the distant west the confused and tangled ranges of the Hazarah mountains spread their snowy network ; and to the south of these in pleasing contrast shone the green valley of Logar, whilst immediately below us and at a depth of some fourteen hundred feet wound a narrow tortuous gorge through which our road passed and into which we descended by a difficult zigzag path in the almost perpendicular side of the mountain. This little valley is constructed in its centre by the approximation of the opposite limestone rocks, forming a natural gateway, the sides of which ascend abruptly to a height of about one hundred feet whilst the passage is about as many long with a width of less than thirty feet. Some wretched looking hamlets were scattered here and there in sheltered nooks that also afforded protection to a few apple and apricot trees. The inhabitants are Ghilzais who cultivate only small patches of unfertile soil, subsist on the produce of their flocks and are occupied for the most part in pillage and I'obbery. The valley is traversed by several sparkling little rills through which shine with increased colour the variegated lines of hornblende, porphyry and syenite, fragments of which strew the surface everywhere. We quitted the valley by a low but steep Kotal of mica schist. The surface here also was strewed with blocks and lumps of hornblende and syenite, the latter in a variety of shades from yellowish green to greenish brown, of vitreous lusture and fracture. In some places the slopes of the hills were covered with powdered mica, that much resembled wood ashes, but the glitter- ing of its scaly particles in the sun at once showed its identity. Descending the Kotal and traversing an extensive " dtimaii" or skirt of the mountain we encamped at " Khushi" about 18 miles from Hazar. Khushi as [ isi ] its name implies is a Heaven of delights to the wayworn traveller, who reaches it after traversing the bleak and inhospitable regions of Haiyab and Hazardarakbt. The village is embosomed in extensive orchards and meadows that occupy the bed of a wide ravine opening on the Logar plain, and which, at this season in the bloom of spring, render the place doubly deserving of its name. Kative provisions of all sorts both for man and beast are to be obtained here in abiuulance. The principal trade of the place is in preserved apricots and madder, though wheat, barley, clover, lucerne, &c. are also extensively cul- tivated. At Khiishi water boils at 198.10 F. with the temperature of the air at G3 F. Approximate elevation above the sea 7829 feet. From Pewar to Khushi is a distance of about GO miles by the ordinary route, crossed in every direction by spurs and ridges of the Sufed Koh, which are for several months in the year, covered with snow and in many parts pre- sent obstacles that are with difficulty overcome by laden animals. The glens and valleys are inhabited by hardy robber tribes, the Jiigis and the Ghilzais. The climate of this region though described by its inhabitants as a paradise during the spring and summer months is for a considerable portion of the year extremely rigorous and grain and other necessaries of life are raised only in quantity sufficient for the scant wants of its wild and savage inhabitants. The average of 5 days' temperature from the 29th March to the 2nd April inclusive was 5 A. 3i. 39 F. ; 1 P. m. sun 93.20 tent 09.0 ; 8 r. M. 50.15 F. Logar. — On the 3rd April after a day's halt at Khushi the mission proceeded through Logar along its quiet stream, crossing it several times by native rustic bridges, though at this season of the year this portion of the river is fordable every where and at an average depth of two feet has a firm pebbly bottom. Logar is an extensive open valley or plain of a shingly, and for the most part uncultivated, soil. A strip, three or four miles across along the course of the river however, is well cultivated and densely populated. The villages are situated close to one another and each is enclosed by thick long walls of a square form built of a hard and tenacious clay and flanked towers at tbe angles. The inhabitants are of several different tribes and consequently eternally at enmity with each other. The chief tribes here are the Wardak, Tiijik, Ghilzai, Kuzzllbash and Muhammad. Their chief occupation is agri- culture. Every patch of ground that can be supplied with water is brought under cultivation and the soil near the river all along its course is a succes- sion of green fields and poplar and willow copses, the freshness and brightness of whose hues called to mind the meadows of England. Wheat, barley, rice, Indian corn, pulses, beans, carrots, turnips, cabbage, mustard, clover, lucerne, &c. are produced here in great abundance, and the three first are supplied to Cabul in considerable quantity. [ 182 ] The cultivation of rice as practised here is a much less unhealthy occupation tlian as practised in Bengal and other parts of this country as in Kurram and Lughmant, &c. In the former instance the seed is sown broadcast, C" par- haVC) whilst in the latter the young rice is transplanted in the ordinary method, C'' nilidUr) The following is the method pursued in Logar. Soon after the winter snows have disappeared from the fields, the ground is ploughed several times in every direction and exposed to the influence of the atmos- phere for a period of three weeks more or less. About a week before the ground will be ready for the reception of the seeds, the latter placed in a large earthen vessel or hole in hard ground, they are then well moistened with water and covered over with a heap of filth, skins, &c, in order to keep in the heat generated and to favour germination. At the end of this time the seeds having sent forth numerous slender radicles an inch or more long and a well developed plumule, are taken out and at once sown broadcast over the fields which have been flooded three or four days previously and in wliich sticks have been fixed at regular distances as guides to the sower to new ground. This process over, the irregularities of the ploughed earth are levelled by a sort of rake termed '^ glialclilchov'''' dragged by a couple of men, and con- trolled by a man following behind. The " gliaklihlior'''' is formed of a short and stout beam, about three feet in length through each extremity of which passes an upright post about two and a half feet in height. These are con- nected by a cross piece above, parallel with the beam below. The beam itself is pierced by a row of holes at intervals of three or four inches into which aro fixed wooden teeth that project downwards about six inches, the terminal teeth being formed by the projection downwards of the upright posts. The implement is yoked by three ropes, one fixed on each side to the upright imme- diately above and below tlie beam and the third loosely to the centre of the upper cross piece by which the labourer steadies and depresses the machine whilst by slakening or tightening this rope, he renders the teeth inclined or perpendicular according as the inequalities of the ground are slight or great. After this a constant supply of water is all that is required till the crop be ready for the sickle about four or five months after sowing. A kind of leek called by the natives '■'■ gandanna''' is largely cultivated in Logar and Cabul. The plant is not allowed to flower as a rule, but its young fresh leaves are used as a pot herb ; from the plants two or three crops comnaonly are obtained annually for a long series of years. At Cabul is a field of ^^ gandanna" said to have been sown in the time of Nadir Shah ! There are no fruit gardens or orchards in Logar, but a few vineyards are met with. The produce of these both in the fresh state packed in cotton and as raisins arc articles of export. [ 1S3 ] Poplars and willows are grown in plantations along the course of the river and watcr-courses, for their timber which is fit for use in the 8th or 10th year, and is used in the construction of houses and the manufacture of thin boxes or drums in which the fresh grapes are packed for exportation. Whilst marching through Logar, quantities of rhubarb were daily brought into camp for sale. There are two kinds, viz. bleached and unbleached, called respectively " raicusV and " cliakriy Both sorts are largely consumed by the natives both raw and cooked. In the latter form, it is a favorite relish added to meat dishes. Both kinds are dried in the shade and so preserved for use when the fresh stock is out of season. The plants are never cultivated, but grow wild in the mountains around and especially in the Highlands of Cabul. The leaf stalks are gathered where they grow, and are brought down to the plains for sale by the hill people near whose abodes it grows, the " raicdsh'' has a very delicate flavour, produced by covering the young loaves just as they sprout from the soil with a loose heap of stones or an empty earthen jar. The roots are sometimes dug up and sold to drug vendors by whom they are used for adulterating the China root, and in outward appearance they much resemble that produced in England for a similar purpose. Quitting Logar by the Tangi Wardak pass we ascended to the high road between Cabul and Ghazni near the village of Shekh-abad on the Gth April and encamped at Ghazni on the 8th. At this season this elevated tract has a barren aspect and bleak climate, and the country still clothed in its winter garb presents a striking contrast to the green plain of Logar, now in the full bloom of spring. The hills around are bare and rocky, but their slopes afford a good pasture to the oxen and sheep of the Wardaks. The soil is stony and gravelly, and at this date variegated with scarlet and yellow tulips, blue Hags, orchids and many other common English flowers. These, howevei-, and a few poplars and willows on the " Shinas," an insignificant stream that joins that of Logar, together with the half dozen fruit trees that surround the villages, hardly relieve the forlorn and empty look of the country. But in the summer what is now an apparent waste, is covered with corn-fields and other crops and freely irrigated by numerous " kdrezas''^ that cross the road at frequent intervals on their way from the heights to the fields below. The " kdrez'^ is a subterranean aqueduct uniting the waters of several springs and conducting their united volumes in one stream to the surface at a lower level. They are very common in Affghanistan, and have retrieved large districts from the wilderness. The country from Shckhabad towards Ghazni rises gradually as far as ''Bahun i SJier" (the Lion's mouth) whence it falls to Ghazni about twenty- four miles distunt.j /Tlie " Sher Dahan" as it is more commonly called, forms I [ 184 ] the entrance to a narrow gorge, through which the road leads hy a steep descent, and is the point I have selected to divide the country lying between Kohat and Kandahar into an eastern and western division for the conve- nience of description, as well as its being on the high ground that forms the water-shed line between them. Ghazni is one of the oldest cities of Afghanis- tan. The ancient city now in ruins, and to which fabulous dimensions are assigned, was founded by Sabaktagi in the latter part of the tenth century, and formed the seat of empire of his son and successor Mahmud Ghaznawi. Arising from the midst of these ruins that occupy the ground east of the present city, are two lofty minars that stand about 350 yards apart, and are said to have formed the limits of the '' Beioan Khana" or audience hall of Mahmud. They are built of large flat red bricks still in an excellent state of preservation, and ranged in ornamental designs, and in some parts covered with ancient Arabic (Kufic) inscriptions. The one on the east by far the finest of the two as well in regard to the quality of the material as the ornamental decorations, is pierced in its upper part by a large hole said to have been done in the Chighatti wars by a cannon shot. Among these ruins are also the crumbling remains of the Mausoleum of Mahmi'id Ghaznawi, and his two sons Sultans Muhammad and Masiiiid. All are objects of great vene- ration to the natives, and are visited by hosts of devotees. The tomb of Mahmud is held the most sacred, and has lost nothing of its sanctity, though desecrated by the most civilized nation waging war with one of the most barbarous. The present city after having been frequently overwhelmed as well by physical as by political misfortunes, was finally taken by storm by a British army on the 23rd July, 1839, and its fortifications blown up. Ghazni is now a place of no importance, and has all the appearances of a decayed city. New fortifications have been raised on the foundations of the old ones and built of their debris and fresh clay, &c. The environs contain many villages, and abound in " ziarats'" or holy shrines, the number of which is said to amount to 197, only a few short of rendering Ghazni a place of pilgrimage as holy as Mecca. These are for the most part surrounded by orchards, vinej^ards and corn-fields, through the midst of which, on the west of the city, flows the Ghazni river on its way south-westwards to the lake Ab-istada, and turning several water-mills "en route." Wheat, barley and madder are raised in this district in great abundance. Of the two first, Cabul draws its chief supply hence. In fact Logar and Ghazni may be considered as the southern gra- naries of Cabul. Madder is largely cultivated throughout this district, and is exported to Hindustan. The plant requires four years to reach maturity and till the third year, sheep, &c., arc allowed to graze its leaves and stems. [ 1S5 ] whilst in tlie fourth year they are proteefceJ for seed and the rooU Collected and dried in the sun. The well known action of the colouring matter of this plant on the earthy constituents of bone, forming an insoluble compound with them, has not escajjed the notice of the Affghans, who also declare that the colour of the meat too is reddened by it. Maize, millet, pulses and carrots and other vegetables are largely cultivated here, whilst the orchard fruits of Ghazni are famous, and its melons are celebrated throughout tlie country. The climate of Ghazni for several months of the year is very cold. iSnow lies on the ground i'rom November to February. In summer the heat is said not to equal that of Cabul or Kandahar, though it is rendered disagreeable and injurious by constant dust storms, whilst the bare rock}' heights of Balal that arise immediate!}' to the north of the city radiate their heat into it and render the night air close and oppressive. During the summer and autumn months, fevers of the typhoid or bilious type are said to be very prevalent and fatal, wliilst in winter, the mortality among the million is greater than in other cities of Aflghanistan, owing to the severity of the cold and the scarcity of fuel. Wood is not usually to be had for fuel, and its place is supplied by thorny shrubs that grow in the surrounding country, thougli every available combustible is also used by the poor. Western Division. — The western division extending fiom Ghazni to Kandahar, presents two open elevated plains or steppes, those of Ghazni and Kandahar connected by a narrow interval, the valley of the river Tarnak. The plains of Ghazni and Kandahar resemble each other in natural features. In both, the soil is sandy or gravelly and encroached on at intervals by off- shoots from surrounding mountains.. Plain of Ghazni. — Excepting along the course of its river to the vicinity of which tlie cultivation and villages are mostly confined, the plain of Ghazni has an enipty and bare aspect. The streams of " karezas" cross the road at intervals of eight or ten miles on their wa\' to the few villages that are widely scattered over the plain country. Tlie distant hills extend in low ranges of bare rock, and the country skirting them is a raviney waste, wandered over by a vagabond section of the Ghilzai tribe called Koehi (a term applied generally to all true nomades in Affghanistan) whose immense Hocks of goats, sheep and camels, share the pasture with herds of wild deer (gazelles) which with wolves, foxes and hares, are the wild denizens of this wilderness, in which also tortoises and several species of lizard abound. The black hair tents (" klieghdi") of these Israelites of the desert are seen dotting the country at frequent intervals, and always occupying the sheltered hollows in its surface for protection from the 2 B [ 186 ] keen blast of the wost wind, which blows with considerable violence during the spring, iUid, till llie sua be well risen, is very bleak and numbing in its effects, and injurious to tlie eyes Irom the force with which it drives particles of dust before it. A stunted brush-wood seldom exceeding three feet in height, and usually not so high, is scattered over the dreary waste. Legumin- ous plants of the Papilionaceous d'vision, such as the camel's thorn (Hedy- sarum Alhazi) several varieties of Astragalus, spiny, rest harrow (Ononis spinosa) &c., the sensitive Mimosa, togetlier with a plant of the rue family called by the natives " lipaud,'" and the common Absinth (Artemihia Judaica), orchids, &c., are the most generally distributed, whilst the dwarf tamarisk preferring a sandy soil, is found where such prevails. The wild rue and absinth are, in general use, as domestic medicines among the natives. 1'he former for rheumatism and neuralgic affections, and the latter known by the names " lukha''' and " talkh,'''' (" Pukhshti" and Persian terms, expressive of its bitterness) ; is used in cases of fever, debility and dyspepsia and also as a vermifuge. The lipaud, owing to its heavy nauseous odour, is supposed to keep off' evil spirits, and is therefore to be found in every house. It is burned on all occasions of joy or sorrow, at the bed side of the sick or wounded, at the birth of a child, at the celebration of a wedding, &c. In towns ^^ fakirs'^ armed with a bason of tire burn the seeds on the approach of a Khan or Sirdar, and as he passes waft the smoke towards him at the same time invoking a blessing on his head in hopes of some pecuniary reward. Valley of the Tarnak. — This stream arising from some springs that issue at the base of a high rock near Umkur, Hows south-westwards through an open raviney country as far as Kilat-i-Gliilzi. Beyond this point, the river follows its course through a more contracted valley, tliat I'alls rapidly in elevation as it proceeds westward, and coming out on the plain of Kandahar, passes six or eight miles south of that city and afterwards joins the river Argandab, which further on uniting with the river Halmand, Hows into the lake Hamiin in Sistan. At Kilat-i-Ghilzi the country presents a remarkable appearance. At different distances from each other, varying from two to six or more miles, and separated by low raviney ground, rise sevei-al table-like elevations which all appear of about the same height, viz. about two hundred feet. They are formed of indurated clay and round pebbles or gravel, and have perfectly flat summits, the edges of which slope rapidly and directly to the base. Khilat-i- Ghilzi itself occupies the summit of one of these. They appear to indicate the level of some former plain that stretched twenty-five or thirty miles between the mountains that now close the distant view to the north and south. Whilst the raviney ground between them which consists of similar materials, marks the action of former floods, now altered and increased by the effects of time and seasons. [ 187 ] The Tarnak is dammed up at intervals in its course and the water led off in canals for purposes of irrigation : consequently in the hot season the river is almost entirely exhausted. There is considerable cultivation along the banks of the river, but few villages, which is accounted fur by the high road between Cabul and Kandahar at this point following the course of the river. The villagers to escape the onus of hospitality, prefer living in secluded dells four or five miles from their fields, rather than part with their substance on the unequal terms of one-sided hospitality. Kandahar. — Kandahar is situated on an open plain in the angle formed by the junction of the rivers Tarnak and Argandab, and about eight miles distant from the one and six from the other, though separated from both by low mountain ridges. Occupying the base of a bare rocky hill about four miles to the west of Kandahar are the ruins of the ancient city, " ^hahr-i-Konalt^ also called " Shahr-i-Husain Shah" after its last king. The remaiLs of its former exten- sive defences crown the height of the rock, and were supplied with water from adjacent reservoirs partially cut out of the rock and ))artially built up. It is said to have been founded by Alexander the Great, and to liavo been several times destroyed and rebuilt by its Arab, Persian, Tartar, Turkoman and Uzbek conquerors, and was finally taken by surprise and sacked and destroyed l)y Nadir Shah about 1738 A. D. who removed its site to tiie open plain about two miles south-east and called the new city Nadirabad. This was hardly built before it was destroj^ed by Nadir Shah's successor in Affghanistan, Ahmad Shah Abdul, who founded the present city in IT-l?, and called it Ahmad Shahr or Ahmad Shahi. The ruins of the old city are very extensive and without apparent dimi- nution have been delved for years and carried away as manure for the fields. They are also frequented searched for sulphur and nitre, both of wliich are met with in small quantities, as also coins, gold and other precious things, especially after heavy falls of rain. Half way up the north-east face of the hill on which this city is built, and situated between the ruins of two towers, is a flight of forty steps (chihal zina) leading to a recess in the ruck ; at the entrance to which on each side is the figure of a crouched leopard, nearly life size. The whole is carved out of the solid limestone rock, and is said, in native histories of tlie place, to have occupied seventy men for nine years before it was completed. The chamber in the rock is about twelve feet liigh and eight wide, while its depth equals its height. The sides of the interior are covered with Persian inscriptions carved in relief. Tliey are said to have occupied the hthogra])her four years, and are to the effect that on the 13th of the month Shawal, 928 A. H. king Babar 2 B 2 [ 188 ] conquered Kandahar, and appointed his sons Akbar and Humdyiiii successively as its rulers. A long list of the cities of Babar's empire then follows, and most of the large cities between Cabul and Burdwan are mentioned. The present city of Kandahar is enclosed by fortified walls of an oblong form about three and a half miles in circuit, and surrounded by a deep ditch. Its length lies north and south, and tbe walls are pierced by six gates, viz. ; the Badurani and Cabul on the east, the Shikarpiir on the south, the Herat and Topkhana on the west, and tlie Tdgah gate on the north. This last how- ever has for many years been built up and to all intents became a portion of the surrounding wall, the northern portion of the city being selected and occupied by the " Ar^g''^ which contains the citadel, the governor's residence, barracks, &c. The two main streets which run one from the Cabul to tlie Herat gate and the other from the Shikarpur gate towards the citadel, cross each other at right angles about the centre of the city under an arched dome, the " c/i(:!r6«," beneath whicli is a reservoir formerly kept in repair for the use of the citizens, but long since covered over and neglected ; these streets con- tain tlie four bazars which are named after the gates by wliich they are entered from without, and that leading to the " ^r^" being called the " Shahi Bazary These present a busy scene being thronged the greater part of tlie day, by a mixed crowd of Aff'j;hans, Biliichis, Persians, and Hindus, &c. who meet here to exchange their merchandise. The Hindus are the moht numei'ous and the wealthiest merchants and carry on a very profitable trade, (if they were but allowed to enjoy the profits of their industry without tyrannous exactions) with Bombay via Shikar[)ur and Kurachi. They iin[)ort British produce, viz.: silks, calicoes, muslins, chintzes, merinos, woollen and broad cloths, &c. knives, scissors, needles, threads, papers, &e. and Indian produce such as indigo, spices, sugar, medicines, &c. They export productions of AflFghanistan to India and the Paujub, viz. : madder, asafoitida, wool, preserved fruits, quince-seeds, pomegranate rinds, tobacco, felts, silk (raw), rosaries, &c. the produce of Kandahar ; and horses, " yuhus'^ or baggage ponies, Birgan carpets, copper utensils, silk, &c. the produce of Persia. The traile between Kandahar and Herat and Mashad is carried on princi- pally by Persians, who bring down silk, raw and manufactured, copper utensils, guns, daggers, swords, precious stones, (torquoise), brocade, gold and silver braiding, Brigian ducats, horses, kuvks, carpets, &c. and take back wool, ftlts, postins, and skins, viz. : fox, wolf, &c. &c. Kandahar is a mean city and does not possess any building worthy of notice except the tomb of its founder Ahmad Shah. This is an octagonal structure overlaid outside with coloured porcelain bricks, and surmounted by a gilded dome, surrounded by small minarets. It overtops all the surrounding build- [ 389 ] ings, and its dome attracts the attention of the traveller approaching the citj from a distance. It occupies an open space between the citadel and the Topkhana gate. A similar though smaller space between the citadel and the Badurani gate is occupied by the " ganf^ or mart for all the grain and live stock entering the city for sale. The city in its general aspect presents an irregular collection of mud huts, (some of which are two stories high), and domes. The streets and lanes are everywhere filthily dirty and taint the air with their noxious effluvia. Water conducted in canals from the river Argan- dab circulates freely through the city in small channels ; but it is polluted at every step by all manner of ofTil and street filth,, notwitlistanding wliieh it is used commonly and without compunction by the inhabitants for all domestic pur- poses. There are, however, wells of excellent water in various parts of the city. The houses of the rich are flat-roofed, two and sometimes three stories high, and usually surrounded by courts and gardens. Those of the poor, are on the other hand low domed chanibers or mean huts crowded close together and very filthy. The inner walls of the better houses are plastered with gypsum which, whil>t moist, is stamped with ornamental patterns and sprinkled with powdered talc or mica, which imparts to the whole a very chaste ajtpear- ance much resembling frosted silver. This gypsum is found in great quantity on the plain, east of the city at from six inches to as niariy feet below the surface. It is dug out in crystallized fragile coralline masses, and is calcined previously to being used as a cement. The heat in this process i.s generally carried to too high a degree, and destroys much of the cohesive properties of the gypsum as a cement. Kandaliar is divided into seventy-eight " mahallas" or districts, named after the chiefs of the several tribes inhabiting them. Some tribes occupy four or five " mahallas" under a separate chief in each. The following list gives an approximation to the number of houses of each tribe: — ]iarakzaie, 910 Kharoti, 200 Murzai, GOO Ghilzai, 100 Alikozai, G50 Ijiunizai, 400 Popalzui, GOO Sarkane, , 200 Ishakzai, GOO Ismailzai, 100 K&kar, 550 Banj.iian (shop keepers), 100 Alizai, 200 Dum (musicians), 40 Khagwani, 150 Pathan, 200 Makuzai, 100 Turk, 50 Badurani, • 150 Eabar and Babi, 200 Saddozai, 100 Aehakzai, 150 Kulizai, 350 Bisakzai, 100 [ 190 ] Maddozai, 150 Kashmiri,.. 100 Parsuran, 1,240 Kulalan (potters), 100 Pirian, 100 Massali (sweepers), 100 Doulat Shahi, 50 Eeslim Farosh (silk vendors), 100 Arab, 50 Ghasrlaram (dairj'meii), 100 Aakzikliel, 50 Jatt (barbers), ... 40 Hindu, 300 Total, ... 9,310 No correct estimate of the population can be formed from these data, for several hundred houses are uninhabited, and fully a third part of the whole city is in a deserted and ruinous state. The general estimate however is between 1G,000 and 20,000. The former number is probably near the truth. Por reckoning at five souls per house for two-thirds only which are inhabited, the population would be 31,030. From this deduct nearly half for exagger- ation on the part of my informant, and the real probable population will be found about 15,515. Of late years the population has greatly diminished owing to various causes, the frequent ravages of pestilence and famine and the hard rule of the vicious governors of the country, being the chief. For the latter reasons all manufactures are effectually cruslied in their development, and the various industrial occupations usually pursued in cities, are in a very sluggish state. The production of silks and the manufacture of felts, postins and rosaries are the principal industrial products of Kandahar exclusive of agriculture. Silk is produced in considerable quantity at Kandahar both in the city and in the villages around. The entire produce of the district is engrossed by Sirdar Gholam Hydar Khan who is said to realize half a lakh of Rupees per annum by its sale. He has a filature adjoining his own residence in tlie " Ar," from the superintendent of which the following details have been obtained. The eggs commence hatching about " Nau roz''' the 21st March. For five or six days previously they are carried about the person in small bags which are at all times in warm and dry places. As soon as it is ascer- tained -that the worms are emerging from their shells the eggs are spread out on a sheet stretched by the four corners at a convenient height from the ground in a clean airy and wliitewashed room, and as the worms are hatched they are removed into an adjoining room prepared for them. Tliis is long, lofty and airy, and the windows are supplied witli screens to keep out flies and prevent too much glare. Along its centre extends a frame work of wood about four feet high and covered with mats (chatti.) On these the worms are placed and regularly snp[)lied with young and fresli mulberry leaves. The worms are never touched with the hand, all handling is carefully avoided ; tlx y are [ 191 ] transferred from tlie sheet ou which they are born to the platform on wiiioh they are finally to entomb themselves in their cocoons together with the twigs or leaves on which tliey have crawled, a supply being always strewed on the sheet. The eggs continue hatching during a period of two or three weeks and those which are later than this usually do not hatch at all. As soon as the caterpillars are born they commence eating and with little intermission con- tinue the process for nine days, at the conclusion of which they sleep conti- nuously for three days, and on waking again continue eating for three days and so on alternately sleeping and eating for periods of three days. In this man- ner the time is passed till the 60th day, on which the cateri)illar commences and completes his cocoon. Some spin their cocoons dxiring the eight or ten days preceding the 60th day from that of their birth, but seldom later. When all the worms have spun their cocoons the latter are collected in heaps in a third room. From these, those intended for seed are then separated and the remainder stored in heaps according to size, colour, and quality. The cocoons intended for breeding are strung on threads carefully avoiding injury to the chrysalis, and suspended over a clean sheet stretched beneath them in the breeding room. During eight or ten days the moths continue to come out of the cocoons and collect together on the sheet, where after a time the females lay their eggs, and then die in the course of a week or ten days. The eggs are collected in bags and kept in boxes or jars till the approach of the next " Nau Uoz," all moisture being avoided and guarded against. The greatest cleanliness is always observed iu all parts of the building and no sick man especially any aillicted with disease of the skin, is permitted to attend the worms, and all noise or anything tending to alarm them is care- fully avoided, whilst great pains are taken effectually to exclude Hies, at the same time providing a free access of air and light. During the night the building is hgbted with lamps, and several attendants keep watch for the safety of the worms. In the still of night the noise made by several thou- sands of worms feeding at the same time is described as very loud and aston- ishing and resembling the sound of continuous sawing. The cocoons collected for their silk are spread out in the sun for two or three hours by which the chrysalis are killed and the cocoon rendered soft and pliant, and when taken iu the hand feels hot and steamy. They are then cast into a large copper boiler containing a sufficiency of hot water, in which they are boiled and stirred about briskly with a slender rod called " ahukh glrdak'^ till the fibres become loose and free in the water. A bundle of the fibre is now caught up on the point of the stirring rod and attached to a wheel on which it is wound oft'. Four seers of fresh cocoons after exposure to the sun lose 2^ seers of their weight. From the remaining i\ seers of dry cocoons are pro- [ 193 ] duced 10 " clattaks'" of silk and 10 " chattaks'' of clirysalis. The 10 chattaks of silk, lose two cliattaks in weiylit by treatment in tbe boiler, the loss consisting of dirt, greasy matter, &c. The eight chattaks left yield two sorts of silk in equal proportions, viz. " Charkhi resJimti'^ and " sarnak resJiam." The first is the best and almost entirely exported to Bombay. The price in Kandahar is 12 Company's Eupees for four " chittaks." The Sarnak resham or that wound off on the fingers as the former is on the wheel, as their respective names express, is of inferior quality and entirely consumed in the district, and is chiefly used in the ornamental embroidery of cloaks, saddle clotlis, &c. &c. Its price varies from four to seven Company's Rupees for four " Ghittaks''' according to quality. The silk prepared from the cocoons from which the moths have escaped is called " Pila'^ resham or '^ Kattjiii,''^ and is inferior to the " Sarnak" resham though used for similar purposes. The silk produced at Kandahar is capable of much improvement. The cocoons are small and of unequal size and of different colours, yellow, white and bluish according to the thickness of tlie silk ; tlie majority of the worms are reared in the villages around, but principally in those along the river Argandab, where also the mulberry trees are most abundant. In Kohan Dil Khan's time, the mulberry trees around Kandahar were estimated at a lakh, and the number has not since diminished. The whole of the silk produced in the district is monopolized by the Sirdar, to whose agent alone may the producers sell their silk. Some in return receive cash, but the great miijority have their names and amount of silk brought entered in a book, and a corresponding remission is made in their quota of the revenue in return. Eggs are supplied by the Sirdar's Agent to all applicants " gratis." The villagers however not profiting by the work take little interest in it, and the numbers of breeders diminish yearl}^, and consequently tlie quantity of silk produced, whilst its quality, rather than improving, deteriorates owing to the quality of I'ood the worms are sujiplied with. In Herat where the worms are reared in greater or less quantity in almost every house, the mulberry tree is described as being cultivated in plantations of young bushes for the purpose of supplying the worms with a tender and juicy food, on which diet the health of the worms is maintained, whilst their peculiar productive qualities are greatly increased. In Kandahar no pains are taken with regard to the quality of the diet of the silkworms, but the extremities generally of the branches of old and young trees alike are lopped off for their food. And the trees are generally let out on hire by their owners to two parties at the same time, to the silk producer for the leaves and to the fruiterer for the fruit. Besides the silk-trade, several others are pursued in Kandahar, and afford occupation t 193 ] and support to limidrcds of families. The principal are the nianufacture of felts, rosaries and copper vtssels of all sorts, whilst dyeing gives occupation to a large class also. Sheep skin coats are also extensively manufactured. A few notes with regard to some of these may not here be out of place. Felts are extensively manufactured at Kandahar, whence they are distributed throughout the country and exported to the Panjab and Persia, to the latter country in exchange for her own felts. The mode of manufacture is apparently very simple, and the beauty and accuracy of the patterns in the finer kinds is astonisliing. A large mat called " chappar^^ formed of the stems of the Guinea-grass, bound together with thin cords and crushed is the principal instrument used in their production, and for the finer kind?, a large knife is us-ed for mowing down the surfiice, to an equal level and developing the clearness of the pattern. The " ITw," which, ill the best sort of felts, consists entirely of sheep's wool, is usually a mixture of wool with goat's and camel's hair picked and cleaned. This is spread out evenly on the " chappar" which is then rolUd up with firm pressure with the feet (the Peshawaries employ the back of the forearm in this work) unrolled and rerolled from the opposite end. This process of rolling backwards and forwards, which occupies a considerable time owing to the slow and continued * to and fro' action that accompanies tlie rolling and unrolling and revolving, is continued i'or lour or five hours, by which time the fibres have become firmly and intimately interwoven. The felt is now taken up, washed with soap and water, dried, and again stretched on the " cliappar,^' when coloured patches of wool are arranged according to pattern on its surface, and the whole is then again submitted to the rolling process for four or five hours, after which the Felt is completed and fit for u.se. The finer kinds are trimmed with a mowing knife which greatly improves the appearance and brings out the distinctness of the colours. These felts are commonly used as car[)ets, cushions, bedding, horse clothing, &c. and by nomades as a warm lining for their hair tents. They vary in price from one or two llupees to fifty or sixty per piece according to pattern, size and quality. Rosaries are extensively manufactured at Kandahar from a soft crystallized silicate of magnesia (chrysolite) which is quarried from a hill at Shahmaisdd about 30 miles north-west of the city, and where also a soft soap-stone (stea- tite) and antimony are obtained in considerable abundance. The stone varies in colour from a light yellow to a bluish white and is generally opaque. The most esteemed kind, however, is of a straw colour and semi-transparent, and much resembles amber ; some specimens are of a mottled greenish colour, brown or nearl}'^ black, and are used for the same purposes as the lighter varieties. From all kinds, rosary beads and charms of various sorts are made and largely 2 c [ 19'i ] exported especially to Mecca. They vary in price from a cou[)le of annas to a hundred Rupees in Kandahar. The dust and debris produced in turning the beads, &c. when reduced to powder is used by native physicians as a remedy for heart-burn. The " post in" or sheep skin coat, the ordinary winter dress of the people is made up here, as well as in Ghazni and Cabul, in considerable numbers. The following is the process pursued. The skins as soon as removed (with the wool in its integrity) are stretched out to dry and in this state are sold by the owners to the curers ; by whom the dried skin is moistened with water and rubbed with a mixture of equal parts of wheat or barley flour and rice- flour with the addition of a little salt. This mixture is rubbed in daily for a period of four or five days, during which the skin is pulled and stretched in every direction till rendered perfectly soft and pliant. At the end of this time the meal mixture is scraped and the whole skin is washed in running water, and the wool is at the same time cleansed. The skin is then dried and handed over to the tanners who, after scrapmg off" all the cellular tissue, &c. with a large and sharp-edged iron scraper, supplied with a projecting handle on each side, moisten the inner side of the skin only with water and rub into it the tanning mixture which, owing to the properties of its principal ingredi- ent also dyes the skin yellow. This mixture consists of the following in- gredients, the aggregate of whose proportions is suflicient to tan 100 sheep skins, viz. Pomegranate rinds dried, 9 ibs. Alum, 2 lbs. Eed ochre (from Herat,) 4 oz. These are all finely powdered and intimately mixed and then two pints of sweet oil, or sufficient to render the mixture of the consistence of a thick syrup, is added. This mixture is spread over the skin with the hand and allowed to dry for three days, after which it is carefully scraped off" and the skin is rubbed with firm pressure with a wooden rubber and thoroughly cleared of the tannino- mixture by crumpling between the hands and shaking and beatino' which also make the skin soft and supple. This completes the curing as well as the dyeing of the skins which are now passed over to the tailors by whom they are cut and sown into short coats or " postincha'^ requiring two or three skins ; into long coats or " postaJci" requiring five or six skins ; and into long-sleeved coats " fOstirC^ reaching from head to heel and requiring eight or ten skins. The silk embroidery and other ornamental finishing is added by women. The price of one of these varies from one to forty Co.'s Eupees or more according to size and finish. The postin is admirably suited to the climate of this country and to the out door life led by the mass of the people. [ 195 ] Those prepared in Cabul are most esteemed. They are soft and supple and do not stiffen or harden after being wetted. Those prepared at Kandahar are not free from this last fault. The postins of this country are far superior to those worn by the Tartar population of the Crimea in all the above qualities. Agriculture. -^-The country round Kandahar is covered with orchards, vine- yards, and corn-fields and other crops, and considerable attention is paid to the cultivation of the soil. To supply it with the material for the nourishment of the seed committed to its care, and to realize the greatest possible produce in the season is the aim of the cultivator who, with these objects in view, dresses the mould with manures, freely supplies it with water and at every oppor- tunity exposes the earth to the influences of the atmosphere. A favorite manure is the earth about the mines of the old city, mixed with stable refuse and street sweepings. Cultivated land is of two kinds viz. " aii" and " lal- lam." Abi land is always irrigated by artificial means, and three methods are in vogue, viz. : — 1. In hilly districts the waters of springs issuing on the surface are led in channels into the cultivated grounds. These often course many miles along the slopes of intervening bills on their way to the fields. 2. Canals conducting the waters of rivers, from a convenient height in their course are led into the cultivated districts, often situated twenty or thirty miles from the origin of the canals. Where many canals are led off from the same river and the current becomes lazy, the stream is dammed up at intervals; the weirs being built just below the origin of tlie canals. 3. The " kcirez.'^ — This is a subterraneous aqueduct uniting several wells and conducting their water in one stream to the surface of the earth at a lower level. They are very common in the southern and western portions of Affghanistan, where they have redeemed large districts from the wilderness. They are thus made. A shaft five or six feet in depth is sunk at the spot where the stream is to issue on the surface, and at regular intervals of from 20 to 50 or more paces, in the direction of the hill, whence it has been pre- viously ascertained that a supply of water will be obtained, other shafts are sunk and the bottoms of all connected together by slightly sloping tunnels. The depth of the shaft increases with their distance from the original one according to the slope of tlie ground. Tlieir number and so the length of the " karez" depends on the supply of water met with, the quantity required, and the distance of the spring from the habitable or culturable spot. The position of the shafts is marked by ciicular heaps of earth on the surface and their orifices are usually closed, the covering being removed at intervals of a year or more for the purpose of cleaning and repairing the shafts and tunnels. Much experience is required to select a spot from which a plentiful and lasting supply 2 C 2 [ 19G ] of water will be obtained. Not unfrequently, the water is brackish and unfit for drinking, from the large quantity of nitre it holds in solution. And many are largely impregnated with carbonate of lime, which is sometimes seen deposited along the margins of the stream in the form of "travertin" or calesinter. Some karezas afford a constant supply of water for ages, whilst others become exhausted before they have paid for the cost of their construc- tion. The most ancient karez in Affghanistan is at Ghazni. It is said to have been made by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznawi, and it now waters the garden of his tomb and the fields around. On the other hand, it is not an uncommon occurrence to see once flourishing villages and gardens deserted and in decay, owing to the exhaustion of their only source of water. Of this there are several instances in the Kandahar district. The villages between Khel-i-Akhua and Mamund Kila have of late years, it is said, been deserted owing to this cause. " Kaiezas" are occasionally, though rarely, constructed at the government expense ; sometimes at the cost of some noble of the land, (though now-a-days this is as rare as the former case) ; but most commonly at the expense of the villages that are to profit by its use, between whom the cost and the use of the water is equally divided, or proportionally so according to the circumstances of relative numbers, &c. The infringement of previously settled stipulations is but too frequent a cause of enmity and bloodshed be- tween the members of adjacent villages, when the government steps in and takes the control of the water supply into its own hands, of coui'se making a very profitable arrangement for itself. " Lallam'^ is the term applied to cultivated land solely dependent on the rains for its supply of water. The fields are usually banked all round, so as to keep and contain all the water that falls or flows into them from higher ground. A considerable portion of the land in the Kandahar district is " lallami;^^ the " dbi" land being principally confined to the vicinity of the rivers Tarnak and Argandab, which, during the hot season, are almost entirely exhausted for purposes of irrigation. In Kandahar, wheat is principally " lallam" crop, and returns in average years from 40 to 50 fold, whilst the same grain raised in " abi' yields from 30 to 40 fold. Barley is chiefly raised in " abi" land, and yields on the average 60 fold. " Jtiar'" or Indian corn also requires irrigation, and in good seasons is said to yield 80 to 100 fold. In Kandahar, as in most parts of Affghanistan, two harvests are realized in the year, viz. the spring and the autumn. The spring harvest or " rabhv" produces : — - Wheat, Gandum, Barley, Jou. Beans, Bagri, Pulses, Ghannah. Lentils, Masur, Madder, Bodang, &c. iz Khan in 1222 A. D., and Taimur Lang in 1389 A. D., and their dominions greatly curtailed, (their native country, Affglianistan liaving become a possession of the victorious invaders) was not entirely overthrovvu till 1525, A. D. when Babar, having twelve years previously, conquered Affghanistan, took Delhi and established the Moghul dynast}' in Hindustan. Babar Badshah died at Delhi in 1530, A. D. and in accordance with his commands before death, was buried at Cabul, wliere to this da}' his tomb is held in as much veneration by the Aifghans as if he were one of their own saints. After this event, Affglianistan became more tlian ever an object of contention between the rival Moghul and Persian sovereigns, and frequently passed from the possession of one to that of the other, sometimes in the midst of political distractions of greater importance enjoying a brief interval of independence under native chiefs, till the time of Nadir Shah who, having conquered Affglianistan in 1736, raised the Persian power to the highest by the capture of Delhi and massacre of its inhabitants in 1739. But Nadir's conquests were too rapid and too extensive to be of long duration. He himself was murdered near Mashad in 1747, soon after his return from India laden with its wealth and riches. At this time Ahmad Khan, an Affghan chief of the tribe of Abdul, and an officer in Nadir's army, having seized the murdered sovereign's treasure near Kandahar, had himself there proclaimed king of Affghanistan under the title of Ahmad Shah " Burr-i-Durran'" (pearl of pearls), a metaphorical expression for the acme of excellence. He was sup- ported in his pretensions by the neighbouring Hazara and Beluch chiefs, and many of the Affghan tribes allied to him by clanship and who have since been [ 203 ] disthiguislietl by the cognomen oV^ DurranV whilst '' Bardurrani^ was applied to the other Affghan tribes, who supported his claims but were of different olans. The ceremony of Ahmad iShah's installation in the government of his newly-made kingdom, took place on an eminence overlooking the extensive plain of Kandaliar (Ibe spot is now marked by an ordinary looking domed edifice held sacred as a shrine), on wliich at a distance of about four miles from the spot on which he was declared king, he founded the present city of Kandahar, named it Ahmad Shahi, and made it the seat of his government, and in which also his bones were deposited under an elegant domed buildino-. During the reign of Ahmad Shah, Afliyhanistan tlirowing off the political trammels from which, during the vicissitudes of centuries she had never been free, became a distinct kingdom, and acquired more independence than she had ever before enjoyed. All mad Shah the regenerator of his country, died in 1773 after a very successful reign of twenty-six years, and was succeeded by his son Taimur. In 1793, after Taimur's death his son Zaman ascended the throne. Zaman Shah as weak and cruel a prince as his father, fell a victim to the plots of his rivals, and alter a brief reign was deposed and blinded by his half-brother Malimud, who was himself shortly alter dej)rived of his ill- acquired ])ouer and imprisoned by Shah Shuja-al-Mulk, the full-brother of Zivman Shah. Shah Shnja, after a brief enjoyment of power, was forced to abdicate and llee the country in 1809, owing to the dark consj)iracies and rel)ellion of his enemies headed by Fatteh Khan, tiie Barakzai cliief. The fugitive monarch at first sought refuge among the Sikhs, but being disap- pointed ill his ill-foanded hopes, and with diiUculty escaping from the restraint put u[)on him b}' the Sikh chieftain Ranjit Singh, threw himself on the pro- tection of the British Government at Ludianah, though not until relieved by Kanjit of tiiat precious burthen the koh-i-nur diamond. Mahmud in the interim having escaped from his imprisonment, was reinstated in the sovereignty by Fatteh Khan, who, for his services, was appointed Wazir and his brothers Dost Muhammad Khan and Kohii Dil Khan, &c. were placed respectively in the governments of Cabul and Kandahar. Fatteh Khan whose power and influence were objects of envy and jealousy to the heir-apparent, was assassinated in 1818 at Uaidrkhel near (Jhazni by Kamran, Muhammad's son. This foul deed raised Muliammad's enemies tiirough- out the countiy, who, under the plea of disapprobation of a crime that was of daily occurrence and a national custom, took the opportunity to throw off subjection to an usurped and tyrannous authority. Tlie whole country pre- sently became convulsed with discord and rebellion, and divided into indepen- dent chielships. Muhammad died at Herat, which was all that remained of his usurped kingdom, and was here succeeded by his son Kamran who, after a 2 D Si [ 204 ] long and tyrannous exercise of power was murdered by his AVazir, Yar Muham- mad Khan, Alikozai in 1842. Kandahar after Fatteh Khan's death became an independent chiefship under Kohn Dil Khan, and his brothers, who shared with him the profits of the government: whilst Cabul at the same time fell into the hands of Dost Muhammad Khan, all brothers of the murdered Wazir. Such continued to be the condition of Affghanistan till 1839, when a British army entered the country and reinstated the fugitive Shah Shuja on the throne of his ancestors. The regenerated monarch after a very brief career was murdered at Cabul during the rebellion and disasters that occurred there in 1841-42. Dost Muhammad Khan (who on the dispersion of all his hopes of regaining power had surrendered himself a prisoner) on being released b\' the British Government, hastened to his recovered principality Cabul, and having restored order and firmly re-established his authority there, gradually extended his power. In 1850 he brought Balkh under his rule, and in 1854 Kandahar also sharing the same fate, became a possession of the Amir, Dost Muhammad Khan. Herat on the other hand, after the death of Yar Muhammad Khan in 1852, was governed by his son Syad Muhammad Khan for three years, when he was displaced by Muhammad Yusuf Khan, Saddozai, wlio after three months' reign was dethroned by Isa Khan a Bardurrani chief. Isa Khan being threat- ened by the Atf^hans, called in the Persians who took Herat in 1856. This infringement of a previous treaty witli the British led to the Persian war of 1856-57 : on the conclusion of which, in accordance with tlie terms of a new treaty, the Persians evacuated Herat about the middle of 1857. On their de- parture, it fell into the hands of an AflTghan chief, Sultan Ahmad Khan Barakzai, a prominent actor in the rebellion and ensuing disasters that occurred at Cabul in 1841. Limits and Mj7»«5j7rt?2if*.— Affghanistan, by which is here meant the country of the Aff^'han people, and those allied to them by manners and customs, in contradistinction to its political limits, is bounded on the east by the Indus from Swat and Boner on the north, to Mittan Kot on the south, inclusive of those districts. The southern boundary is formed by the Beluch districts of Kach Gandawa, Sarawan and the Washai mountains, which last separate Beluchistan from the great sandy desert that forms the south-western portion of Affghanistan. On the west it is bounded by Persia and Persian Khoras- san the sandy and for the most part desert region of Sistan encroaching on the southern portion of this border. On the north, Affghanistan presents an [ 205 ] extremely ill-defined border, along which from west to east, lie the indepen- dent chiefships of Maro (a dependency of Khiva) Bokhara, Kundoz, Badakh- slan, and Kafiristan, whilst the country of the Hazaras (the Paropamisan mountains) occupies a very considerable tract in the north-west of the coun- try. The Hazaras are an independent (the border tribes only being subject to the AflPghans) nomade people of Tartar origin, their features and general bodily conformation coinciding with the type of that race. They speak, how- ever ; a dialect of the Persian language, and like that people belong to the Sliia sect of Muhatnmadans. They have no knowledge of tlieir origin or history, but usually declare themselves of Moghal descent. Tiieir wealth consists in vast flocks of horses, camels, goats and slieep. From the hair and wool of the camel and goat, they weave a variety of warm fabrics, suited to the climate of their country. These are known as barak, kurk, &c. which are hereafter mentioned again. These together with sulphur and lead, the produce of their mountains, are a source of considerable profit to the Hazaras, who largely barter them with their neighbours the Uzbeks, Persians, and Affghans for the products of their respective countries. The Hazaras are said to be a brave, healthy and hardy race. I have, however, observed a frequency of leprosy among tliose of tliis race who have settled in Affghanistan, they are usually emploj-ed as grooms, labourers, &c. and earn but a precarious livelihood, and consequently live on the hardest fare, rarely tasting meat and not always ol)taining a sutHcient supply of bread. In their own country where also this disease is said to be not unfrequent, they live entirely on the produce of their flocks, and cultivate none of the vegetables common in Atfghanistan, though they have abundance of wheat and barley. Inhahilants. — Affghanistan within the above described limits is inhabited by many distinct tribes exclusive of the Hazaras. Several of these have no national or kindred affinity whatever to the Afighans whilst others, though they resemble the Affghans in language, features and many of their customs, are rejected by them as brethren, and assigned a separate origin, their names not being found in the genealogy of the Affghans. To the former class belong the Kazzalbashis, Parsiwans, Tajiks and other Parsizabans. The two first are Persians and entered the country with Nadir Shah. The Kazzalbashis serve as soldier?, and form the greater portion of the cavalry and artillerj' branches of the Affghan forces. The Parsiwans dwell for the most part in towns and cities, and are occupied as merchants, shoplveepers and the various trades, whilst those who live in village communities are husbandmen and shepherds. The Tajiks, though of a different race, resemble the former in occupation as well as language, but they principally lead an agricultural life, and settled in villages cultivate the soil. [ 206 ] To tlie second class containing those who call themselves Pathans, though of a dift'urent origin from the Atfghans, belong to the tribes of Karani, Ashtarani, Mashwani, Wardak, &c. The Karani division contains the Orakzai, Afridi, Mangal, Kliattak and Khagyani tribes. This last is divided into the Zazi, Tori and Paria sections, and the Waziris are sometimes included among these. Each of these tribes is again divided into nunierous Ichels and zais or clans, and each tribe possesses its own territory. All the tribes known as Karani are found on the slopes and the eastern ramifications of the Sufed Koh. Thus the Afridis and Orakzais occupy the hills drained by the Bara river (a tributary of the Cabul river.) The Khat- taks occupy the range of hills extending from where the Cabul river joins the Indus to the Kafir Kot on the Kurram river near Bannii. The Zazis, Toris and Parias occupy the southern slopes of the Sufed Koh, and its spurs in that direction, which are drained by the Kurram river. Still further south of these are found the Mangals and Waziris. The Khagyanis are separated from these by the Cabul river, they occupy the Mawzi hills between Lalpura and Bajour. The Dalaziks sometimes included among the Karanis, are dis- persed throughout the country in small communities, they possess no lauds but usually act as the servants of the Aifghans. The Ashtaranis and Mashwanis are principally found in the Derajat. The former are chiefly occupied as merchants, and carry their merchandize from India to Bokhara, through Cabul and vice versa. The Mashwanis are husbandmen, nomades and shepherds. The Wardaks occupy the narrow western defiles of the Logar valley and the hills drained by the sources of that river. They are fixed in villages and cultivate the soil. Of the AfFghans, the Ghabzais, Durrdnis and Kokars are the three main divisions. No correct estimate of the numbers of these tribes can be arrived at, at present, though of the aggregate population of the country, they do not number a half, but rather I believe less. In all the populous districts a large por- tion of tlie population is made up of Parsi-zabans, viz. Kazzalbashis, Parsiwans, and Tajiks, which last are the most numerous. There are besides many Hindustanis and some Hindus. In the Kohistan (Highlands) of Cabul, are found many tribes who, in features and to some extent in language, resemble the Kafirs, though they profess Muhammadanism. Of these, the cliief tribes inhabit the district of Logman and are known as Nimcha (half caste) Sadu, Kawal, &c. The two last mentioned are gypsies, are very poor, lead a roving life, tell fortunes, and are adepts at petty thieving, and have a language of their own. Of the other tribes some speak a dialect of the Persian language, and others a mixed patois of Pukhshtu and Kafir languages. The total population of the country may be divided from their different [ 207 ] modes of life into two great and antagonistic classes, viz. those who have fixed abodes, and those who have no fixed abodes but lead an erratic life, migrating from the low to the highlands and vice versa, in accordance with the changes of the season. The latter, the nomade population, though they sometimes cultivate a sufficiency of corn for their own consumption, live for the most part on the produce of their flocks, and beyond the attention requir- ed by these have no other occupation than that of robbers. And when victims are not to be found within their own territories they seek them in those of their neighbours, who at once resent the trespa-s, and thus the ordinary monotony of a pastoral life is varied by the excitement of a retaliative warfare and surprisals. The fixed population dwelling in the towns and villages, are occupied in tlie cultivation of the soil, the various trades and other industrial pursuits. But among these, the Affghans (except only the poorest of the poor) from their positions as masters, deem it derogatory to their honor to engage in any of the occupations pursued by their companions. And on being asked the reason, with an air of offended dignity deign no further reply than " ze Fulclitun rjam''^ (I am a Pukhtun). The Aifghan beyond serving as a soldier, or cultivating the ground for his own su[)i)