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 JOURNAL OF 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH, 
 
 R.N., C.B., C.M.G., 
 
 DURING HIS LAST COMMAND AS 
 SENIOR OFFICER ON THE AUSTRALIAN STATION, 
 
 1873— 1875. 
 
 EDITED, 
 
 WITH A MEMOIR, BY HIS WIDOW. 
 
 WITH MAPS, STEEU ENGRAVED PORTRAIT, AND WOODCUTS. 
 
 Henry S. King & Co., London. 
 
 1876.
 
 " O Thou who for our sins didst take 
 A human form and humbly make 
 
 Thy home on earth ! 
 By Thy redeeming grace alone, 
 And not for merits of my own, 
 
 O pardon me ! " 
 As thus the dying warrior prayed, 
 Without one gathering mist or shade 
 
 Upon his mind. 
 His soul to Him who gave it rose ; 
 God lead it to its long repose. 
 
 Its glorious rest ! 
 And though the warrior's sun has set, 
 Its light shall linger round us yet, 
 
 Bright, radiant, blest. 
 
 COPLAS DE MANRIQUE. 
 
 ■{The tights of translation and reproduction are reserved^
 
 DA 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 — ♦ — 
 
 Many of Commodore Goodenough's friends and 
 others having expressed a desire that some record 
 of his Hfe should be made pubHc, the following 
 Memoir has been compiled. In it, it has been 
 the endeavour of the writer to show both his life 
 and his character as much as possible by his own 
 writings, or by those of others (not his near rela- 
 tions), who were intimately associated with him at 
 different periods of his life, and who could judge 
 of him perhaps more justly and more dispassion- 
 ately than could those in whose affections he filled 
 so great and so absorbing a place. 
 
 V. H. G. 
 
 786855
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 MEMOIR. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Childhood and Schooldays— Entrance into the Navy 
 — H.M.S. CoLLiNGwooD— Four Years in the Pacific 
 — H.M.S. Cyclops— Coast of Africa— Royal Naval 
 College— H.M.S. Centaur— South America— Baltic 
 —H.M.S. Hastings i 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 H.M.S. Raleigh— Voyage to China — Wreck of the 
 Raleigh— Fatshan and Canton— Appointed Com- 
 mander OF H.M.S. Calcutta— Peiho— Japan . . , 15 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 Second Voyage to China in H.M.S. Renard— Penang— 
 Peiho— Shanghai— NiNGPO— Nankin — Suez Canal- 
 Commander of H.M.S. Revenge— Promotion . . 39 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Special Mission to North America— Marriage — H.M.S. 
 Victoria — Mediterranean — H.M.S. Minotaur — 
 Channel Fleet— Temperance 61
 
 Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 I'ACE 
 
 Work among the French Peasants about Sedan — 
 Committee on Designs for Ships of War — Dieppe — 
 Naval Education — Appointed Naval Attache. . 8i 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Appointed Commodore of the Australian Station — 
 Voyage to New Zealand — Fiji — Sydney— Melbourne 
 — Tasmania — Captain Cook — Adelaide — New He- 
 brides 109 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 The Last Cruise .- . 143 
 
 JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Outward Voyage— Perth— Wellington . . .169 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Auckland— Kawau—Sava(;e Island — Samoa . . . . 186 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 Fiji— Sydney 207
 
 CONTENTS. ix 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PACE 
 
 Melbourne — Launceston, Tasmania 240 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Norfolk Island— Fiji 246 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Coal-fields of New South Wales— Wollongong 
 AND BuLLi— Newcastle 251 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Portland, Victoria— Wallaroo, Port Lincoln, Ade- 
 laide, Mount Gambier, South Australia . . 259 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 New Hebrides 273 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Fiji — New Hebrides — Santa Cruz
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Two Sketches of the Shore of the Island of Tanna 
 Sketches of the Shore of the Island of Erromango 
 
 Native Hut, Island of Vati?: 
 
 Malavaran, or Dancing-ground, Island of Nguna 
 Rongavai, or Club-house, Island of Nguna 
 
 Island of Mota . . . 
 
 Sections of Coral Formation 
 
 Painting on a Native Face, Island of Ambrvm . 
 Southern Coast of the Island of Mallicollo . 
 Dead-house or Public-house, Island of Mallicollo . 
 
 Section of Coral Formation 
 
 Three Sections of Coral Formation .... 
 
 Coral on the Island of Espiritu Santo 
 
 Native Hut, Island of Vanikoro 
 
 PAGE 
 279, 280 
 
 282, 283 
 
 287 
 
 291 
 
 292 
 
 297 
 
 301—303 
 
 329 
 330 
 
 334 
 339 
 340 
 342
 
 CONTENTS XI 
 
 LIST OF MAPS. 
 
 Fiji Gruui'. Viti LEvtr. Sketch of the Rewa 
 
 River. By Nav. -Lieut. H. Hosken, R.N. . To face p. 215. 
 
 Chart of the Coast of South Australia and Bass's 
 
 Strait At end of Book. 
 
 Part of the South Pacific, showing the Track 
 OF H.IM.S. "Pearl" during the Last Voyage 
 of Commodore Goodenough .... At end of Book.
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 CHILDHOOD AND SCHOOLDAYS — ENTRANCE INTO THE NAVY — H.M.S. 
 COLLINGWOOD — FOUR YEARS IN THE PACIFIC — H.M.S. CYCLOPS — 
 COAST OF AFRICA — ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE — H.M.S. CENTAUR — SOUTH 
 AJIERICA — BALTIC — H.M.S. H.A.STINGS. 
 
 James Grahat^i Goodenough was born on December 
 3rd, 1830, at Stoke Hill, near Guildford, in Surrey. His 
 father, the Very Rev. Dr. Edmund Goodenough, a son of 
 the Bishop of Carlisle, had lately resigned the Head Master- 
 ship of Westminster School, and was at that time a Canon 
 of Westminster. His mother was a daughter of S. 
 Cockerell, Esq., of Westbourne. In the following year, 
 Dr. Goodenough became Dean of Wells — and there was 
 James Goodenough's home until he went to sea. 
 
 The Dean directed his children's education, and made 
 them share in his pursuits, whether of natural history, 
 architecture, or music ; and no doubt this assistance, the 
 early associations of his home, and the interest and beauty 
 of Wells Cathedral and the surrounding scener}^, cultivated 
 
 /
 
 2 COMMODORE GOODEKOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 in James the love of architecture and music, and that critical 
 taste which could not be satisfied with anything short of 
 the best and purest in art, and which formed a source of 
 enjoyment to him through life. He often recalled in later 
 years one of his early lessons in perseverance and hardi- 
 hood. When about seven years old he used to ride with 
 his father. His pony had a habit of bolting in at the stable 
 gate, instead of coming round to the front door ; and on 
 one winter evening the Dean insisted on the little boy 
 riding up and down the road, till long after dark, and till 
 he had mastered his pony, and made him quietly pass the 
 stable door. 
 
 The accident of his godfather. Sir James Graham, having 
 been First Lord of the Admiralty at the time of the child's 
 christening, had led Dr. Goodenough to choose the follow- 
 ing of the sea as the profession for his son James ; and the 
 boy's mind was from the first led to look upon the Navy 
 as his future career. From his earliest years he showed 
 determination and strength of character — even his elder 
 brothers and sisters were accustomed to abide by his de- 
 cision in a disputed matter, always recognising his desire 
 for justice ; and they remembered that when only about 
 eight years old he for some time voluntarily contented 
 himself with dry bread at the school-room breakfast, in 
 order to harden himself, and make himself more fit to 
 encounter any difficulties he might meet with in the pro- 
 fession which had been marked out for him. 
 
 At seven years old he went to a school in Berkshire, and 
 before he was ten he was sent to Westminster School, 
 where he remained till he entered the Navy, at thirteen.
 
 Chap. I.] WESTMINSTER. 3 
 
 Of his school life a schoolfellow and intimate friend thus 
 writes : — 
 
 " At the early age of nine and a half he was sent to Westmin- 
 ster school, in June, 1840. He was, as a boy, what he continued 
 to be as a man — honourable, true, tender-hearted, modest, brave, 
 and a hater of all things evil. There was something in his 
 society which raised others unconsciously, yet he was not one of 
 those boys who were never to be found out of bounds or in the 
 fighting green. On the contrary, while joining heartily in all that 
 other boys did, whether allowed or forbidden, he kept all real evil 
 from himself and his companions by a sort of natural force. 
 Every one liked him, and rejoiced at his successes in school and 
 on the water, which were extraordinary for so young a boy." 
 
 In these three years he passed from the third form to the 
 shell (next to the sixth form). Owing to the traditional 
 customs of the school, he was involved in one or two 
 severe fights, successfully beating boys older than him- 
 self. The only time he was severely punished at school 
 was for a systematic disregard of a rule which he con- 
 sidered an encroachment on the privileges of the scholars 
 he persistently rowed up the river on a whole holiday, not 
 presenting himself at the roll-call (or " early play," as it was 
 called) in the middle of the day, which he considered un- 
 fairly broke into his holiday. But he soon learnt to yield 
 to discipline and to obey orders unhesitatingly, whether 
 just or not. A few years later, when in the Pacific, having 
 gone on shore for a ride, on which occasions it was allowed 
 that a midshipman should leave his sword behind, he was 
 reproved by a superior officer for being on shore with- 
 out his side arms, and ordered on board his ship. He 
 
 B 2
 
 4 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 immediately Avent on board, and lost his ride, rather than 
 remonstrate with his superior. 
 
 On May 7th, 1844, ^^^ obtained his appointment in the 
 Royal Navy. The examinations in those days were not 
 what they are now. He went down to Portsmouth, and 
 should have gone on board the "Victory " to be examined ; 
 but, as it was blowing hard, he Avas desired to sit dov/n in 
 the flag lieutenant's office, given a sum and a piece of 
 dictation to do, and the examination was over. As the 
 " Collingwood," the ship to which he was appointed, was 
 still fitting out, the naval cadets were sent away on leave. 
 He came dovv'n to Portsmouth again early in the summer, 
 with his father and mother, to be confirmed (the Bishop 
 holding a special confirmation for those who were soon 
 leaving England) ; and in July of the same year he joined 
 the Collingwood at Spithead. His father had a house 
 in the Isle of Wight at the time, and a yacht in Avhich he 
 constantly visited the ship, and in M-hich, when the Col- 
 lingwood finally sailed for the Pacific, on September 7th, 
 the Dean and his family accompanied the old two-decker 
 for some distance down Channel. 
 
 In the Collingwood, Goodenough had the advantage 
 of being under officers who materially encouraged and 
 assisted him in his endeavours to advance in his profession. 
 The admiral, Sir George Seymour, interested himself in 
 the youngsters ; and the kindly presence of Lady Seymour 
 and her family on board the ship infused a refining influ- 
 ence and homelike feeling which were fully appreciated, 
 and never forgotten by the young boy thus early taken 
 away from the home that he loved.
 
 CiiAP. I.] H.M.S. COLLINGWOOD. 5 
 
 In Ill's captain, afterwards Admiral Sir Robert Smart, he 
 had before him a man of high professional ability, of the 
 purest integrity and elevation of character, — to whom 
 during all his life he looked up with reverence and affec- 
 tion. Captain Smart took the greatest interest in the 
 progress and wellbeing of his young officers, and young 
 Goodenough fully felt and appreciated the benefit that this 
 was to him. The favourable reports of the progress of the 
 young midshipman which periodically reached the distant 
 home, were highly valued at the time, from the known 
 conscientious judgment of his captain. 
 
 The naval instructor, Mr, William Johnson, was a man 
 of cultivation and ability, and who possessed the rare 
 talent, not only of teaching well, but of inspiring his pupils 
 with interest in, and liking for, their studies. Among the 
 many kindnesses shown by Mr. Johnson, one much appre- 
 ciated was that of giving the use of his cabin to those boys 
 Avho wished for quiet to read and study. Here many well- 
 spent hours were passed by young Goodenough, amongst 
 others the dinner hour on alternate days when at sea, on 
 which days, as he could not eat salt beef without feeling 
 ill, he did not go to dinner at all. 
 
 On the sailing of the Collingwood, the naval cadets were 
 allowed to choose whether they would keep night watch or 
 not ; Goodenough at once elected to do so. Also, whether 
 they would study foreign languages as well as the ordinary 
 professional studies. These he also chose ; and to Mr. 
 Johnson's admirable teaching in this branch of study he 
 owed much of the pleasure which in after life he derived 
 from his thorough knowledge of French and Spanish.
 
 6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 Amonsr his messmates were his connection and school- 
 fellow, and dearest friend, Clements Markham ; and many 
 others side by side with whom he rose in the service, and 
 for all of whom he always retained a specially affectionate 
 feeling in remembrance of the happy days passed together 
 on board the Collingwood, — the rides, the excursions, 
 Lady Seymour's Saturday picnics, and many other plea- 
 sures which were so delightful to all of them. It was a 
 great source of satisfaction to him, at the Naval Review at 
 Spithead in 1867, that no less than six of the largest of 
 the ships were commanded by " Old Collingwoods ; " and 
 almost the last dinner he went to before leaving England 
 for the last time in 1873, was to meet a number of these old 
 shipmates. 
 
 He gives the following account of the commission of the 
 Collingwood : — 
 
 " The Collingwood touched at Madeira, Rio de Janeiro, and the 
 Falkland Islands, reaching Valparaiso early in January, 1S45, and 
 remaining there till March. Thence sailing to Callao, Tahiti, and 
 the Sandwich Islands, where we passed two months very plea- 
 santly, returning to Tahiti for three weeks, and finally to Val- 
 paraiso in January, 1S46." 
 
 He often remembered with amusement a little incident 
 which took place at Tahiti. That island had lately become 
 the possession of the French, who had enforced some rule 
 of silence in the streets after certain hours. One night, 
 after hours, an English marine, not quite sober, was loudly 
 singing " Rule Britannia " as he sauntered along, when a 
 French sentry — to the great amusement of some English
 
 Chap. I.] PACIFIC. 7 
 
 officers who were passing — came up to him, touched him 
 on the shoulder, and said, with a meaning smile, " Mon 
 ami, it is too late to sing ' Rule Britain ! ' " 
 
 " The Collingwood remained at \'alparaiso till April, then went 
 again to Callao, Payta in Peru, and San Bias and IMazatlan, in 
 IMexico, Thence she passed to Monterey in California, and to 
 the Hawaiian Islands again, where we passed another agreeable 
 two months, returning to Valparaiso in about February, 1847, 
 after sixty-five days at sea, seeing but two ships on our way. 
 Hence we went to Juan Fernandez and Callao, whence I went 
 with Sir George Seymour to the isles of Quibo Cocos and Gal- 
 apagos, and to Payta, in the ' Sampson,' returning to the CoUing- 
 wood at Callao, and in her to Valparaiso, in December, 1847, 
 where we remained until relieved by the 'Asia,' in April, 1848, and 
 then returned home by Rio de Janeiro, and paid oft" on August 
 1 2th, 1848." 
 
 The friend already quoted speaks thus of the Colling- 
 wood days : — 
 
 " As a midshipman young Goodenough fulfilled the promise he 
 had given as a boy at Westminster. Always modest and unas- 
 suming, he naturally took the lead in everything ; the best as a 
 linguist, in navigation, in seamanship, in gunnery, and all exer- 
 cises, and among the foremost in all expeditions. He took to sea 
 with him Burney's collection of voyages in the South Seas, which 
 he read carefully, and he thus acquired a love for such narratives 
 and for the achievements of daring navigators and explorers, which 
 continued to the day of his death. His messmates looked to him 
 as their leader, almost as their guide ; and none of them ceased 
 to look back with regret to those four happy years. Many a long 
 ride and exploring walk did Goodenough arrange and carry out 
 to achieve the seeing of some sight, the examination of some
 
 8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 noteworthy object that would have been missed without his clear 
 guiding head and bold lead. Several survive to cherish the 
 remembrance of the midnight gallops to Casa Blanca and Quil- 
 lota, the daring fording of the flooded Con-con, the dash out to 
 Pachacamac, which ended in a stopping of leave, and the wan- 
 derings on the coast of Mexico and California, in the Sandwich 
 Islands, and at Tahiti. He received his first lessons in surveying 
 from Captain (afterwards Sir Henry) Kellett, then in command of 
 the ' Herald,' who kindly gave him some practical instruction in 
 Callao Bay and round San Lorenzo. 
 
 " On every emergency Goodenough's first thought was for 
 others. Once he and another youngster took a long excursion 
 among the wild ravines of Juan Fernandez. Scrambling through 
 masses of huge leaves, which concealed everything in front, 
 Goodenough was a few paces a-head. Suddenly his companion 
 heard a crashing sound, and as he crept forward Goodenough's 
 warning voice urged him anxiously not to follow. At the moment 
 he must have been in great agony. He had fallen down a sheer 
 precipice, and had sprained his ankle, besides being severely cut, 
 crushed, and bruised. It was twenty-four hours before he could be 
 found and extricated. His companion never forgot that warning 
 cry, which probably saved his life, and which added a feeling of re- 
 verence to his love for such a messmate. But such was Good- 
 enough's character, in pain or in danger his first thought was for 
 others." 
 
 On the paying off of the Collingwood, the Port Ad- 
 miral at Portsmouth asked Captain Smart to point out 
 any officers with whom he was specially satisfied ; and, 
 among others, Goodenough was brought forward. On his 
 certificate his captain wrote " An officer of promise." 
 
 The Dean of Wells had died in 1845, ''^nd on his return 
 to England, James Goodenough found his mother and
 
 Chap. I.] COAST OF AFRICA. g 
 
 sisters settled at Loughton, in Essex. After six weeks' 
 leave at home, he Avas appointed, October, 1848, to the 
 "Cyclops" (Captain Hon. G. F. Hastings), and sailed in 
 her for the coast of Africa. After touching at Sierra Leone 
 and Ascension, the Cyclops went to the Bight of Benin, 
 and visited every port on the coast— from Accra, on the 
 Gold Coast, to Fernando Po. Later, she went to St. Paul 
 de Loanda and the River Congo, till August, 1849, — when 
 his desire for advancement led him to ask permission to 
 return to England to compete at the Royal Naval College 
 for the lieutenant's commission, which was then annually 
 given to the mate who after a year's study passed the best 
 examination. He returned to England in the " Dart," in 
 December, 1849; and when paid off, went at once to the 
 " Excellent," where he had to stay six months before join- 
 ing the college. In March, 1850, he returned home on a 
 month's leave ; and in June passed his examination and 
 became a mate. Li July he entered the Naval College ; in 
 December, 1850, he had one month's leave; and in July, 
 185 1, passed his examination and obtained the lieutenant's 
 commission. 
 
 His principal rival was also his greatest friend in the 
 college, and they worked together in the most friendly 
 and affectionate emulation — a friendship which the unsuc- 
 cessful competitor generously continued through life. He 
 thus speaks of those days : — 
 
 " There are few, if any, the delineation of whose character 
 should be more inspiring to young men who are seeking after the 
 best and noblest things of this life and that to come .... 
 I have watched his career with such interest as to know that all
 
 lO COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 the good and great qualities that then endeared him to me only- 
 ripened and intensified as he grew older. I wish it were so with 
 all, but I fear that it is only the noblest who continue to progress 
 or even to retain the highest aspirations of their youth. The 
 time we spent together in the ' Excellent,' and at the Royal Naval 
 College, was one of close study and constant companionship, but 
 was very much without incident ; we taught in the Sunday schools 
 together; we read and prayed together every night, and what 
 little time was snatched from study was generally devoted to 
 walks into the country, to which a little sketching and a little 
 botanising added interest." 
 
 Another fellow-student thus writes : — 
 
 " It was my good fortune to have known him since the year 
 1850, when we were studying in the same class at the Naval Col- 
 lege; then I saw what a man amongst men he was, that his 
 actions were all guided by the purest Christian principles .... 
 a man who was ever manly, gentle, and kind, an officer as smart, 
 and a seaman as able as ever lived." 
 
 A former professor at the college says : — 
 
 " His conduct while with us was so uniformly exemplary, that 
 there was nothing in it of a chequered character. He had at 
 that early age the same devoted sense of duty that has marked 
 his career throughout his life, and he gave himself up to the sub- 
 jects of study not only for the sake of the reward which success 
 would give him, but for their own sake, and to enable him to 
 serve his country in an intelligent manner .... His was 
 a character that required but little moulding. What he was at 
 the last, the same he seems to have been at all times. His 
 superior intellect and steady, cheerful perseverance gained him 
 the first great step in his public life, by enabling him to win the
 
 Chap. I.] ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE. II 
 
 lieutenant's commission— the only prize of scientific merit in 
 those days." 
 
 During this period one of Goodenough's greatest plea- 
 sures was an acquaintance (slight as it was) with Sir 
 Edward Parry, who was then Superintendent of Haslar 
 Hospital ; and in later years he often spoke of the refresh- 
 ment it was to him after his hard study to spend an hour 
 or two in that distinguished officer's company, or to attend, 
 as he often did, the Bible readings which Sir Edward 
 Parry held every Sunday afternoon for the seamen in 
 hospital. 
 
 After obtaining his commission he was for ten weeks on 
 half pay, part of which time was spent in an excursion to 
 Switzerland, and part in a trip to Copenhagen, with the 
 late Captain F. Blackwood, R.N., to observe an eclipse of 
 the sun. In September, 185 1, he was appointed to the 
 " Centaur," bearing the flag of Rear Admiral Henderson, 
 commanding the South-American station. The Centaur 
 remained on that station, visiting all the different ports 
 along the coast, till February, 1854. In this ship he inter- 
 ested himself in the ship's boys, whom he used to teach on 
 Sunday afternoons. The following extracts are from letters 
 written at this period : — 
 
 "H.M.S. Centaur, Rio de Janeiro, 
 November wth, 1852. 
 
 " I do not make much progress in sketching, having finished 
 but few lately. My indolent nature prompts me to gaze on and 
 admire the wonderful magnificence, without daring to attempt to 
 copy it. That expression of Ivlr. P.'s, speaking of Wales, is a
 
 12 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 very apt one. I mean ' If this is so much to be admired, how 
 much more is there in that " other state'"— and still more— If to 
 know and see a little of God's doings is a source of real happi- 
 ness, how much more is to be obtained by what Dr. Milner 
 calls, in homely phrase, making God our ' Summum Bonum '— 
 the source of all our springs of action. 
 
 " I think I told you that two Quakers have come out here to 
 present an address to the Emperor on the subject of slavery. 
 They were well received, and thanked by the Emperor. I have 
 not been able to meet them yet, but hope to do so to-morrow if I 
 can find time." 
 
 " Buenos Ayres, May isf, 1S53. 
 
 " . . . . Thank you for a copy of Captain S.'s note. I 
 think with you that it would be not right to ask for a recall with- 
 out a definite appointment ; indeed, I would not at all wish it 
 were it offered. Wliat I wish you have divined and done, viz., to 
 have my name known as an individual wishing for employment in 
 the surveying branch, being in a certain manner adapted to it by 
 the advantages often enjoyed at the college and elsewhere. This 
 failing, I must get an exchange or appointment to some sailing 
 ship as I best can, or else wait for another fresh commission. So 
 I think that nothing can be done unless an opportunity should 
 offer. To you, dear mother, to whom I wish all my thoughts and 
 doings to be known, I must say that I fear I have wished too 
 much for this change, and that I have thought and talked a great 
 deal too much of myself to the exclusion of others. So a truce 
 to it." 
 
 In February, 1854, at the breaking out of the Russian 
 War, the Centaur was suddenly recalled, and her crew 
 sent to other ships. 
 
 After a fortnight's leave, and after trying in vain to get 
 appointed to a ship going to the Black Sea, Goodenough,
 
 Chap. I.] BALTIC. 1 
 
 3 
 
 much to his disappointment, was sent to the " Calcutta " 
 (84), the guardship at Plymouth. Ships were wanted to 
 take troops to Bomarsund, and 150 officers and men were 
 sent from the Calcutta to the " Royal William " ( 1 20), among 
 whom was Goodenough. The Royal William embarked 1 500 
 French troops at Calais, and took them to Bomarsund ; and 
 after the capture of that place, returned to Plymouth with 
 1200 Russian prisoners. The officers and men returned to 
 the Calcutta, and Goodenough was reflecting how to get into 
 active service, when he hit upon the plan of asking to rejoin 
 the Excellent to requalify as a gunnery officer. This was 
 allowed, and in a month he passed from the Excellent 
 to the " Hastings " (60), Captain Caffin, as gunneiy lieu- 
 tenant, in February, 1855, and went in her to the Baltic. 
 At the bombardment of Sweaborg, August 20th, 1855, 
 the Hastings was engaged with the battery of Sand- 
 haven ; and Goodenough was gazetted as having been in 
 her boats when engaged at night with the frigates moored 
 between the forts. Two men were wounded in Good- 
 enough's boat by the bursting of a rocket. The chaplain 
 of the Hastings thus records the impression that he made 
 on his messmates at that time : — 
 
 " He knew the fact that we were intended for hard service. 
 It was generally believed that hard fighting was in store for us, 
 and that the block ships, of which the Hastings was one, would 
 bear the brunt of it ; and he not only speedily got all matters con- 
 nected with his own department in order (for he was Gunnery 
 Lieutenant), but was always my friend and counsellor in e\'ery 
 scheme for the good of the junior ofticers and crew. He was 
 genial, kind, and sympathetic, and would help me at all times to
 
 14 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 gain the end I had in view, without violating ship's rules and 
 naval discipline. He supported me in introducing the celebration 
 of the Lord's Supper, then almost an unknown thing on board 
 ship. By all of us he was much beloved, and, though a strict 
 officer, and very particular in matters of duty, he was known to 
 be so conscientious and scrupulous about doing his own work 
 thoroughly, that all admired and many emulated his high tone of 
 doing everything as unto God and not unto man. 
 
 " Twenty years have passed since then, but I have the impres- 
 sion still very distinct that I never met in my naval career one 
 whose thorough religious feeling impressed me so deeply, or any 
 one of whom I felt more sure that if life should be spared he 
 would rise to greatness in his profession, and be a blessing to 
 many, in whatever sphere he might be placed." 
 
 While he was in the Baltic he received the news of the 
 death of his mother, from cholera, while travelling in 
 Spain, for his youngest brother's health. On his return to 
 England, in the winter, he applied for six weeks' leave 
 to go to Malta to see his sister and brother, which was 
 refused ; and he then got permission to be put on half pay, 
 in order to be able to do so. He spent part of January 
 and February, 1856, at Malta, refreshing himself with, and 
 thoroughly appreciating, the highly-prized family inter- 
 course he so seldom was able to enjoy. 
 
 Of this brief holiday a friend thus writes : — 
 
 " How well I remember him in his first manhood at Malta, and 
 thinking that he unbent so naturally from the rather stern and 
 grave habit which had been described to me. One had the happy 
 feeling of being so safe with him, whateyer was the subject in 
 band ; however high people's spirits were, there would not be a 
 single word to regret."
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 H.M.S. RALEIGH — VOYAGE TO CHINA — WRECK OF THE RALEIGH — FATSHAN 
 AND CANTON — APPOINTED COMMANDER OF H.M.S. CALCUTTA — PEIHO 
 — ^JAPAN. 
 
 After just two months' holiday Lieutenant Goodenough 
 returned to England, and obtained command of the 
 " Goshawk " gunboat, at Woolwich, which he fitted out 
 and took to Portsmouth, and there joined the squadron 
 of gunboats under Captain A. C. Key, being present at 
 the great review at Spithead after the Peace. He was 
 then sent to Plymouth, and remained there till August 4th, 
 when he was paid off, and appointed first lieutenant of 
 the " Raleigh " (50), bearing the broad pendant of Com- 
 modore Hon. H. Keppel. The Raleigh sailed soon after 
 for China, making a very rapid passage, taking only 
 thirty-five days from Madeira to the Cape, in part of 
 which she averaged 240 knots for nine days in succession. 
 On this voyage he began studying German, working at 
 " Ollendorf " every evening. " For a moment," he says, " I 
 thought it would be possible to learn to write Chinese, 
 but a look at a dictionary soon undeceived me." 
 
 After a short detention at the Cape, the Raleigh 
 sailed again, making over 230 knots for thirteen days in 
 succession, touching at Penang and Singapore. On the
 
 1 6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 way thither they passed to the north of Sumatra, which he 
 thus describes : — 
 
 " The heat began the first day we saw Sumatra, since which we 
 have passed through a narrow passage at the north end — a very- 
 pretty thing, for it was not so wide as the mouth of Portsmouth 
 harbour at high tide, with high rocky sides clothed with trees, 
 hke a gigantic gateway, to our station. Everything was dead still 
 as we passed through, except the loud hum of the cicadas. 
 Several canoes of Sumatrans were paddling about, and in the 
 afternoon a Chinese junk came past us — a regular junk, with eyes 
 on her bows, those odd-looking sails, and a high poop stuck about 
 with nasty-looking spears." 
 
 When within lOO miles of Hong Kong, on the 15th of 
 March, 1857, the Raleigh struck upon a rock not marked 
 upon the chart, and was run ashore not far from Macao, as 
 the only means of saving her. Lieutenant Goodenough 
 gives the following details of the occurrence in a letter 
 home : — 
 
 " KoKO Island, near Macao, April 22nd, 1S57. 
 
 " It was a great disappointment to us all. We had just got to 
 the end of our long journey, and were ready to go up to Canton 
 to disembark men, or go into action on board, and had won every 
 inch of the last part of our way with difficulty, when a vilain 
 rocker sticks its point through our bows, and in a few hours sinks 
 the ship, spoils our arms and ammunition, and keeps us at this 
 dull work of recovering her in a wet, unpleasant season. 
 
 " We were coming into Hong Kong when we struck ; the ship 
 was about twenty-five miles from it, and among some islands, close 
 to the great I.adrone, when she bumped on this stone, which was 
 not marked on any chart that we had, and which the surveyor
 
 Chap. II.] LOSS OF THE RALEIGH. 1 7 
 
 himself does not know of. It was equally distant from two 
 islands, Jongo and Palakiki, and a well marked rock. I was 
 writing Avhen she struck, and of course ran up, and found a 
 crowd of pale, incjuiring faces asking what was to come next. To 
 my surprise she did not strike again, but glanced off, and still 
 moved through the water. No masts had come down, though 
 the shock was violent, and we had been going seven knots. Some 
 of the men were saying, 'She'll never recover that; it was an 
 awful blow, and no mistake.' I rather ' pooh-poohed,' and said 
 to a petty officer, ' Ah, she may stand many another like that.' 
 But I thought I would go down to the fore store-room, where the 
 shock seemed to have been. On getting down I heard a rush of 
 water, and when a light was brought, saw that the timbers were 
 evidently broken, and the inside planking all started, so that I 
 could thrust in my hand along a space 4ft. long by 2 1ft. deep, 
 about 14ft. under water. As I was leaving the deck I heard the 
 Commander give orders to sound the well, and when the car- 
 penter had reported, he ordered him to rig the pumps. In the 
 store-room I got six of the strongest hands near to hand everj'- 
 thing out of the lower part where the leak was, and before ten 
 minutes they were over their knees in water. When the place 
 was clear I went down again, to make sure of the extent of the 
 damage, and thrust my hand in again. It was far too extensive 
 to hope to repair it even temporarily inside. The Commander 
 had given orders to prepare a sail to go over the bows, with a 
 view of letting it down weighted till it should be sucked into 
 the leak ; so after the place was full of water I went on deck 
 to direct its preparation. I found that the Commodore had 
 ordered one watch of the men to go to the pumps, and the other 
 to work the ship, make sail, &c. ; and after measuring the distances 
 on the chart from the nearest ports, and observing that the ship 
 was settling b}- the head, had determined to run for a beach on 
 this island near Macao, and to put the ship on shore here to pre- 
 vent her from sinking, as the leak was gaining fast upon the 
 pumps. The course was therefore altered, and sail was increased 
 
 c
 
 1 8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 with the greatest coolness and regularity, Graham, whose watch it 
 was, carrying on the duty, while Gilford attended the pumps, and 
 I took what men I could gather to prepare the sail for the bows, 
 and in the intervals of altering the sails moved the forecastle 
 guns to the quarterdeck. At two o'clock, about one hour and a 
 ({uarter after striking, one of the chain-pumps broke, and the men 
 were set to work with buckets, but of course the leak now gained 
 faster than ever. My sail was now ready, but the Commodore 
 feared that it might not get correctly into its place, and that it 
 would stop the ship's way so much as to prevent our reaching the 
 flat ground we were steering for before she sank. We therefore 
 kept on trimming and making sail as we steered amongst the 
 numerous rocks and islands, and getting guns aft. Earlier in the 
 day we had made out a frigate and steamer at anchor in Macao 
 Roads, and therefore commenced firing minute guns, and when 
 we saw them again hoisted the ensign, union jack downwards. 
 They were both French. The upper deck guns being all aft, I 
 began the main deck, when the Commodore sent down to salute 
 the French Admiral. This was done, and we had got several 
 guns aft, when about 3.30 we put her on the mud, driving her 
 into it as far as she would go with all available sails. The pumps 
 were now left, and a party of men sent to save the bread, which 
 was getting wet, and the remainder to take in the sails. In the 
 three hours and a quarter between striking the rock and taking 
 the ground she had made ten feet of water against all our endea- 
 vours to keep her free by pumps. This had deepened her till she 
 drew twenty-six feet of water, and as we had run into the mud 
 till we were in only eighteen feet, she appeared pretty safe. 
 
 " Five minutes afterwards the Commodore sent for me to assist 
 in speaking to the French Flag Lieutenant, who had come on 
 board, and told me to go to the French Admiral, ask for the 
 ' Catinat' steamer to take me to Hong Kong, and there tell the 
 Admiral what had happened, and ask for assistance. In half an 
 hour after striking I was in the French boat. Unfortunately the 
 Admiral was on shore, and it cost us till half-past eight to get on
 
 Chap. II.] LOSS OF THE RALEIGH. 1 9 
 
 shore, and ask permission, and to get back to the Catinat, 
 which started in a cjuarter of an hour. The officers kindly gave 
 me a cabin to He down in ; I was asleep by ten, and called at 
 three to be told that we were close to Hong Kong. I got up, 
 and when we anchored went to the ' Calcutta,' the flag-ship, saw 
 the Flag Captain and Admiral, and told them all. The Admiral 
 instantly ordered a steamer to prepare to move, and when she 
 was ready sent her up the river with orders for the ' Nankin' and 
 'Inflexible' to come to our assistance; then got ready an old 
 vessel to come down and take our guns. Our friend Catinat 
 was to take me back at nine, but did not start so soon, so it was 
 four when I saw our ship again. I could not believe my senses. 
 She had sunk in the mud up to her main-deck guns, and I could 
 see no one moving on board. I found the Commodore on board, 
 his secretary, the chaplain, a guard of marines, and a boat's crew. 
 All the rest were on shore in tents. They told me that on the 
 night that I left she began to settle in the mud, and at seven 
 o'clock the water came up to the lower deck. The men took 
 their clothes and mess-traps on the main deck, and the officers' 
 things were moved out of their cabins into the Commodore's. My 
 old servant and my boy worked nobly, and saved nearly everything 
 for me, except some books. At eleven the water was over the lower 
 deck. Things remained thus till morning, when we went to the 
 French frigate to ask for assistance in transporting our men, and to 
 beg provisions for two days. At the same time we began unbending 
 our sails, and sending small spars on shore to rig tents, landing 
 boat guns, small arms, ammunition, and officers' and men's traps 
 and beds. The French Flag Captain came over, and with the 
 Master and Gilford, who was sent as beach-master, picked out a 
 good place for our tents, which the French began to rig, assisted 
 by a few of our men, who began to come ashore in each boat, 
 Visconti was] there on leave from his ship, the ' Virginie,' inter- 
 preting, rigging tents, and doing everything possible to provide for 
 our comfort. The French boat brought us a present from the 
 officers of wine, eggs, bread, and cooked fowls. "W'e could not 
 
 c 2
 
 20 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IL 
 
 have done without their kindness and assistance. I found the 
 Commodore sitting on a raised platform above the deck, and after 
 we had talked about our doings, boiled some of our eggs, and 
 smoked a cigar, we lay down to sleep on the bridge. Early in 
 the morning I went on shore, and found a long tent with the 
 Commodore's things at one end, and then the officers' and the 
 men's at the other end. As there was work to be done on board, 
 toe Commander gave the men some biscuit, took them away, and 
 left me with a party to put things in order. He had not been 
 gone ten minutes when a deluge of rain came down, filled a pond 
 which received the drain of a ravine, and made it overflow its 
 banks till the water burst through the whole length of the tent, 
 and nearly carried it all away. My party rushed out and dammed 
 the course of the torrent, tried to open a new course for it 
 through the sand, and saved the brass guns from being either 
 carried oif or buried in the sand. 
 
 " The rain lasted all day, but not so violently as at first, and 
 we made a new tent, which pleased me so much that I at once 
 put half the men into it when they came on shore again. On 
 Friday the Nankin and Inflexible came to us, and on Saturday 
 we sent 300 of our men to live on board the former. Captain 
 Corbett very kindly sent me a sheep. On Sunday the old hulk 
 'Alligator' came down, and we officers came to live on board her." 
 
 In May, Goodenough was given the command of a small 
 hired steamer, the " Honkong," with two large and four 
 small guns, and took command of her just before the battle 
 of Fatshan, which he describes in the following letter : — 
 
 " I took command of this craft, the hired steamer Honkong, 
 on Saturday morning, the 30th May. All Sunday I was running 
 up and down the river on various duties, and on Monday, at half- 
 past four in the morning, weighed to go into action, to take some 
 junks anchored in the Fatshan Creek, a branch of this river.
 
 Chap. II.] FATSHAN. 2 1 
 
 The junks were protected by a hill fort, and this was first stormed 
 
 by Captain Elliot after a small resistance. We then advanced on 
 
 the junks with four other gunboats, towing all the boats of the 
 
 S([uadron, silenced a four-gun battery on our way, and were just 
 
 within range when we got on shore. Can you conceive anything 
 
 more disappointing ? The Commodore, who had his pendant in 
 
 me, jumped into his boat, and away went all the boats to the 
 
 attack. The other gunboats passed me, and I felt thoroughly 
 
 sold. Nothing was to be done but to get off, and then to follow 
 
 the boats, which, after leaving a division to destroy the taken 
 
 junks, passed on to chase the Chinese flying in their boats. All 
 
 the other gunboats had got on shore not long after passing me, 
 
 and I passed them one by one j but after a couple of miles got on 
 
 shore again, and had just hauled my vessel off, when I saw firing 
 
 ahead. I called out to cut our hawser. Young Harry Stephenson 
 
 ■seized a cutlass and cut it tlirough, and we went on again, and 
 
 soon found the boats retiring from a strong force of twenty picked 
 
 junks moored across a narrow part of the stream. The boats 
 
 had pulled on after the capture of the first body of junks, and 
 
 ignorant of the existence of these twenty, in front of whom three 
 
 or four light leading boats suddenly found themselves at a turn of 
 
 the river. A heavy fire began directly our boats checked their 
 
 speed. The heavy boats with guns came up, but either touched 
 
 a bank or were carried by the current against those already on it, 
 
 and a sad loss followed. Major Kearney, a volunteer. Deputy 
 
 Quartermaster-General of the Army, was almost the first killed by 
 
 a round i8-pounder full in the breast, as he sat by the side of 
 
 Captain Leckie, in the Fury's gig. A round shot struck the 
 
 Commodore's galley, and she began to fill. He stepped on the 
 
 thwart to keep dry till another boat came up, and another shot 
 
 passed under his feet and went through the bottom of the boat. 
 
 Victor was with him, binding the stump of a fine young Isle of 
 
 Wight man's arm. Another man had both his legs taken off, and 
 
 two others were wounded as she sank from under them. The 
 
 Commodore called out to save his pendant, and stepped into
 
 22 COMMODORE GGODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 Captain Tumour's cutter, shaking his fist at the junks, promising 
 to pay them out for this in the afternoon. Graham, close to me 
 in the pinnace, had his jacket riddled by grape, and his legs 
 blackened by the wind of a round shot. Two men's heads were 
 taken off by his side, and the blood from their poor trunks literally 
 covered him ; three or four others were wounded in his boat, and 
 the Commodore was persuaded to retire and re-form. Just then 
 we came up, and opened fire from our bow gun. The boats gave 
 us some of their wounded, which filled our mess-room and cabins, 
 and then dropped astern to re-form. The Commodore would not 
 allow me to advance any farther, and we had the disadvantage of 
 engaging at a distance all these fellows, who knew their range 
 accurately, and dropped some shot on board, taking off one poor 
 fellow's leg, and wounding another badly. After half an hour's 
 firing the junks began to retreat, and we followed. The boats 
 came up again, and gave the Commodore a cheer, and off he 
 dashed. The river got shallower, and we got a little beyond 
 where the junks had lain, and found it impossible to get any 
 further. We drew seven feet, and there was nowhere more than 
 six. Some more junks in a small branch creek opened fire at us, 
 seeing our mast-heads over the trees, and in about ten minutes we 
 drove them out, and tried again to get afloat. We could see the 
 Commodore taking and destroying junks as he went up, some in 
 the very suburb of the city of Fatshan, which stands in the same 
 relation that Manchester does to Liverpool, and has always been 
 a shut book to Europeans, ^^'e recovered the Commodore's 
 boat, which had floated up with the stream, and as soon as we 
 could we got down the river again to where the first junks were 
 destroyed. 
 
 " I had received many more wounded, nearly all very badly so, 
 and so I was ordered to take them straight to Hong Kong at once, 
 and passed a horrid night on the bridge. Put the sick on board the 
 hospital ship at seven in the morning ; coaled, watered, and 
 started again at six in the evening, passed another night on the 
 bridge, piloting the ship, and reported myself to the Admiral at
 
 Chap. II.] SCENERY. 23 
 
 nine o'clock the next morning. I never was so dead beat in all 
 my life. All the way down I had the ringing of shot in my ears, 
 and the groans of a poor fellow with half his skull fractured and 
 carried away, who could not be removed; and coming up we 
 had two alarms of springing a leak, and I had actually steered for 
 a sandy place to put the ship on shore ; the first from the 
 injection pipe of the engine bursting, and the second from the 
 speed and immersion causing a shot to work out of a hole which 
 it had before stopped for itself." 
 
 Beauty of scenery always had a great charm for him, 
 and he took pleasure in finding out what it was that 
 pleased him in a landscape. About this time he thus 
 speaks of his first impressions of China, as compared to 
 what some of his family were enjoying while travelling in 
 Italy and Spain : — 
 
 " How I envy any one even of your fellow-travellers in Italy, 
 and how I could enjoy it with you. Long before I get home 
 again it will all be over, I am afraid, unless I would whisk myself 
 overland to join you. The scenes and climate, and, above all, 
 the associations, must be delightful. This country is totally 
 wanting in the last. There are no scenes one remembers with 
 interest, no people who have spirited, free, or gentle natures to 
 give one an intent de cceur. The little one knows of the past 
 history here excites no interest or reverence. The impressions 
 of the character of the Cantonese, received on the spot, accord 
 completely with the ideas imbibed from reading Hue. Some 
 parts of the river are excessively pretty now. The rice plants 
 have grown up to a height of four feet or more, and are therefore 
 never covered by the tide, and they appear to keep the same 
 brilliant green until cut. Junks of all sorts move about with 
 their round-headed dark brown sails of matting, following the 
 Avindings of some creek, till they disappear or lower their sails 
 behind a mass of wide-spreading, dark-leaved trees, which the
 
 24 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 village people sit under in front of the waterside. Still in the 
 tropics one can never say that any part of scenery like this is 
 absolutely beautiful; for where light and atmosphere vary so 
 immensely with the time of day, what is dull at mid-day if it is 
 cloudy, or all of one colour if the sun shines, is full of tender 
 shades and pretty minute changes at early morning or sunset. 
 
 " I had your note from Madrid. I can quite understand your 
 not liking it after your visits to quieter places. I think that 
 to like a large town one ought to know many people intimately 
 in it, and have some one, at least, whose countenance changes 
 for you. In the country one is content with the scene and sky 
 which change for no one, but are always full of beauty and grace, 
 for those who love them. 
 
 " I have seen a man who has travelled through the heart of the 
 central provinces of China, going from Canton to Hankow. He 
 says that there were no traces of rebels there, but that all was 
 quiet — this is satisfactory. The country he describes is pretty 
 and varied, but never gets beyond the petitcsse of the willow 
 pattern. Does not this account to you for their cramped, 
 dwarfed style of art. They have nothing that is really stupen- 
 dous or magnificent to set off against the work of their own hands 
 — dykes and canals — which are stupendous as works of human 
 labour, and in their intense self-love they prefer to pourtray the 
 quaint, grotesque weavings of their own fancies to copying the 
 beauties of nature, or rather of God's hand. They don't perceive 
 or admire the lovely changes of the hues of clouds or sky any 
 more than they can the harmony of music. Sharp contrasts of 
 brilliant colours please them best, and in the latter they cannot 
 go astray with all the carpets of brilliant flowers which the central 
 provinces possess." 
 
 In the same letter he gives an account of taking some 
 war junks, with regard to which action he was mentioned 
 in a despatch of Sir R. McCIure's : —
 
 Chap. II.] CAPTURE OF WAR JUNKS. 2$ 
 
 " There is an immense amount of piracy going on in a small 
 way right under our noses, and on Monday, the 4th, I went with 
 Captain McClure and boats of ' Esk ' to try and rout some out of 
 the shores of some islands. He was unsuccessful in his search, 
 but while he was away I saw a Mandarin boat of twenty-six oars, 
 and pulled after her in my gig and took her — a very pretty boat 
 of four guns, built exactly as most war junks that I have seen are, 
 like the plates of Venetian galleys in the sixteenth century in the 
 old MSS. in the Royal Naval College library. Just when I was 
 close to her, a junk, which I had taken from her seedy appear- 
 ance to be a merchant, fired some grape at me, and by the time 
 I had taken my first chase the fellow had got to a village, and I 
 did not think it right to follow him with only four men, so went 
 back to Captain McClure, got two of his boats, one with a gun. 
 He pulled in on one side of the village, while I went by another 
 branch of the creek to the right to join him. Finding no channel 
 I returned and was going up his creek to join him, for I heard a 
 good deal more firing than seemed due to the occasion. I soon 
 saw him coming out, firing as he retreated, and with a small 
 junk, like the one I had taken in the morning, in tow. My 
 paddles prevented my getting into the creek after all, and I 
 pulled in in the gig, and heard that McClure had boarded the 
 junk and tried to tow her out. The crew got behind their village 
 walls and fired jingals, and killed or wounded nine men, so he 
 set her on fire and left her, and when the gun-boat reached him, 
 went in again, firing a few shot to scare the crew off, and com- 
 pleted her destruction." 
 
 In September the " Honkong " was returned to her 
 owners, and Lieutenant Goodenough took command of the 
 " Bittern," where he remained for a few weeks, when he was 
 offered to go as second lieutenant of the flagship, the 
 " Calcutta," which he accepted, as he would be in charge of
 
 2 6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 a landing party. While in the Bittern he describes a 
 dinner given to Captain Turnour, the late commander of 
 the Raleigh — 
 
 " Captain Turnour has not yet left ; and the day before yester- 
 day the officers and men at the fort, who are all old Raleighs, 
 gave him a dinner on his going home. They had caught a young- 
 heifer a few days before on a foraging expedition ; another forag- 
 ing party went away and got a quantity of plank and shot some 
 pigs. They rigged a table for 170 people, which we found on going 
 up, covered and ornamented with evergreens and flags. A chair 
 came down for Captain Turnour to the landing-place, ornamented 
 with green, and with 'a pleasant passage home,'&c., on a Chinese 
 paper over it ; and he was carried up with cheers to the table. 
 The heifer was roasted whole and was delicious, and they had 
 made a quantity of plum puddings of about fifteen inches diameter. 
 Johnson, one of our lieutenants, managed it all, and I never saw 
 anything better done. It would quite have borne comparison with 
 any tenant's dinner at home. I gave Captain Tumour's health 
 in a speech which I had to shout out, at the top of my voice. 
 After dinner, there were races, jumping, hopping, quoits, &c., on 
 flat ground without the walls ; and when it grew dark we sat in the 
 mess-room, once a joss-house, and heard songs and recitations 
 from the men who sat in a semicircle outside. The men waited 
 to carry Turnour in triumph to his boat again, and the leader 
 presented him with the visiting paper, begging him to keep it as 
 a memento. The mosquitoes are something frightful. I was 
 learning Chinese words just now from an old washerwoman, who 
 had brought my clothes, when she coolly hit me a slap on the 
 forehead, and quite gravely showed me a splendid mosquito on 
 the palm of her hand and told me its Chinese name." 
 
 In December, Goodenough landed at Honan Island, in 
 tlie Canton river. He thus describes the landing and 
 preparation for the taking of Canton : —
 
 Chap. II.j CANTON RIVER. 27 
 
 We left the Calcutta on Saturday last, 19th, and came here 
 (Honan Island) in a gunboat, 200 men and officers, whom I com- 
 mand, with Gilford and Beamish under me, and a half-dozen mids 
 and youngsters, among whom are two old Raleighs, Dupuis, and 
 Wilson. We are very happy in our quarters, which are a row of 
 large empty packhouses. On landing, we had to clear the rubbish 
 out of one of these, lay planks on impromptu trestles, cover them 
 with mats, and then forage for tables, stools, basins, quantities of 
 which were in the deserted houses in the neighbourhood. We 
 landed at half-past two, and at half-past five all was done, and the 
 men were having tea in their house, which they divide into port 
 and starboard side. We have a room which has served as an 
 office or something of that sort, and have arranged ourselves 
 pretty much as the men. Our occupation has been to send parties 
 making batteries or reconnoitring on the opposite side. We are 
 here on the south side of a branch of the river, the north side 
 being Canton city, about 1500 yards off. The Chinese have not 
 attempted yet to check our movements. One day I was with a 
 party at the French Folly, an island fort dismantled by us a year 
 ago, and within five hundred yards of the city wall. The Chinese 
 took no notice of us whatever while we cleared the ground and 
 began to make a pier. To make a good job of it I ordered some 
 of our boats to take some cargo junks which I meant to place, 
 sticking out from the beach filled with stones. Unfortunately 
 one of these was laden with salt, and the sanpans, who had held 
 aloof and picked up stray bits of wood, now closed in for the 
 handfuls of salt which the men threw to them. As it was neces- 
 sary to lighten her I let them clear her ; there was a rush of old 
 women and men and girls scrambling, pushing and digging at the 
 salt, not waiting long enough to take a whole bag, but burrowing 
 into the mass of about ^200 pounds worth of cargo. Yesterday 
 we had a pleasant trip, reconnoitring from Tsimpoo, a village 
 from which Lord Gough attacked the heights last war. We went 
 within 2000 yards of their forts without drawing their fire, and had 
 a quiet view of some very pretty country, highly cultivated, and
 
 2 8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 of some pretty gardens. 2Sth. Fancy what I have been doing 
 for the last two days — bill sticking ! I have been with H. Parkes, 
 the consul, sticking bills up, in Chinese, within 130 yards of the 
 walls, telling the people that we begin to fire to-morrow, and that 
 the city will be ours. We call on all good citizens to assist us, 
 when we shall be in possession, to maintain order and to keep 
 up the police of their districts. The people pressed round to get 
 the proclamation, and eagerly joking and talking to Parkes. At 
 one place we stuck them up on a triumphal arch, created in 
 honour of our having been kept so long out of the city. In 
 another a fellow was pestering for a paper, so Parkes said no, I 
 want to give them to respectable people. ' Oh, then, pray hand 
 me one, and I will give it to one of those.' Whereat the crowd 
 laughed greatly. We shall not be engaged for two days; we scale 
 the wall which is twenty feet wide, and go along it till we reach a 
 gate which we open for artillery, and then wait for orders. I do 
 not expect fighting till we enter the city." 
 
 Of the taking of Canton no letter has been preserved. 
 Goodenough commanded the men and field guns of the 
 Calcutta in that engagement, and the following letter, 
 written in 1875 by a former seaman of the Raleigh and 
 Calcutta, now settled in Australia, alludes to this action : — 
 
 "When the Commodore was in Adelaide, a few months ago, I, 
 an old and humble shipmate of his, and one who has stood in the 
 breach with him before to-day, met him in the street by accident, 
 and although seventeen years had passed since I last saw him, I 
 recognised my old commander. We had a short conversation, 
 and I begged for a visit, which he did me the honour to pay next 
 day, and had a quiet cup of tea with me and my wife ; and we 
 
 had an hour's delightful conversation When in the 
 
 Raleigh he had the soubriquet, among certain of the crew who 
 were not afraid ' to speak evil of dignities,' of Holy Joe. I relate 
 this as showing his character as a young man. And at Canton,
 
 Chap. II.] TAKING OF CANTON. 29 
 
 where I formed one of the small company he commanded, just 
 before the conflict, standing with his face to the wall and sword in 
 hand unsheathed, I turned round and saw him in the act of 
 opening his eyes, I presume, after a short, mental prayer for 
 strength and protection. I have often read with admiration the 
 Bible story of Gideon and his 300 chosen Israelites. Comparing 
 small things with greater, I have often thought this brush at 
 Canton was of that ilk. The sixty men were composed of ten 
 men belonging to the Calcutta's field piece (Lieutenant Good- 
 enough had charge of five guns belonging to the Calcutta, but 
 only one was at that point, the other four being further back on 
 the walls of Canton) and fifty men belonging to the Esk. The 
 Chinese came trotting up the hill, waving flags, &c., and we had 
 expended every shot and shell with the exception of three rounds 
 of canister, with one of which our gun was loaded. After the dis- 
 charge, the rush at the foe was made. Lieutenant Goodenough, 
 singling out a big Tartar Mandarin. When fighting with him his 
 field-glass, which was slung round his neck, got in the way, and 
 by sheer strength he broke the leather strap and flung it away. 
 When the enemy were scared away we sought for and obtained it 
 again. There was a tall Tartar soldier who had a wound in the 
 thigh. Lieutenant Goodenough, I remember well, poured the 
 contents of his water-bottle in his mouth. That man's look was 
 a reward for the self-denial ; if a painter could have painted such 
 a look it would have created a sensation. A short time after this 
 I found a fine well and replenished our water-bottles therefrom. 
 The poor Chinaman laid till the next day. We sailors thought 
 that the most honourable position of the day was given by the 
 Admiral to the Calcutta's guns. We were placed in front of 4,000 
 marines, stretched out on a beautiful plain in three long Hnes, 
 before two forts on hills outside the city, and when the bugles 
 sounded the advance we scoured along the plain in front of all 
 and scaled the wall with ladders, some getting through one of 
 the gates — curious gates those eastern cities have — and dragging 
 our guns after us."
 
 30 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 A companion of those days speaks of Goodenough in 
 the following terms, alluding to this time : — 
 
 " ... a thorough good naval officer, who I felt was 
 always a good example to me, both as a messmate and shipmate 
 in all matters connected with our duty, not only in the drudgery 
 of peace time, but during the excitement of active operations 
 before the enemy, when I have often seen him exercise his 
 influence in checking licenses occasioned by the inexperience of 
 the young liands, unaccustomed to victory, and commended 
 afterwards by the older and superior bystanders." 
 
 Immediately after the taking of Canton, the Admiral 
 gave him a commission of acting commander ; and a few 
 weeks after he was promoted to that rank from the Admi- 
 ralty, and gazetted for service on that occasion. He was 
 at once appointed commander of the Calcutta. 
 
 In March the Calcutta went to the Gulf of Pecheli, 
 and Goodenough commanded her men at the capture of 
 the Taku forts, in May, 1858, where she lost one killed and 
 two wounded. The letter containing the account of the 
 engagement was unfortunately lost, but the following 
 extracts speak of what immediately preceded and succeeded 
 the attack : — 
 
 "H.M.S. Calcutta, March, 1858. 
 
 " At sea at last, in real truth ; for the first few days it gave me 
 an inexpressible feeling of relief to feel the ship moving under me, 
 to be able to look round without seeing that horrible Victoria peak 
 over one's head. The north-east monsoon is not yet over, so we 
 are beating up, and in our zig-zag course have sighted ' Lurzon,' 
 various islands with grassy knolls and ravines, full of dark scrubby 
 trees, and to-day we are in sight of the north end of Formosa.
 
 Chap. II.] GULF OF PEC HELL 3 1 
 
 Yesterday a lovely bird was blown off, and perched several times : a 
 dark red body, with a long oval of green on the back, and a long 
 pink bill, perhaps one of the birds of Formosa celebrated for their 
 beauty." 
 
 " The military chaplain was on board here a few days ago, and 
 dined with us : Mr. Huleatt, an excellent man, with a manly, 
 straightforward, pleasant manner, exceedingly taking with the 
 men, who ought to adore him. I don't know if they do. At 
 Canton he has already got a reading room and a school, and dif- 
 ferent amusements, such as lectures for the soldiers and marines, 
 and has organised besides rice and soup kitchens for the poor 
 Chinese, of whom there are many, although there were foundling 
 and aged asylums well endowed long ago. Of course, with such 
 sharp people, he has a great deal of difficulty in dealing with rogues, 
 who counterfeit the tickets which he gives to the poor, and receive 
 quantities of rice. He made tickets and set his seal on them, 
 and in a very few days discovered a counterfeit. He seized the 
 man who presented it, and by promise of a reward found the old 
 woman who sold it to him, and the little girl who passed it to 
 her, and at last the manufacturer in the middle of his work, who 
 was handed over to the provost marshal." 
 
 " We have a poor old Chinaman with us whom we are taking 
 back to his kin. He is a commercial traveller, and had been only 
 six weeks in Canton on the day of the bombardment. After the 
 place was taken, an English sentry shot him in the leg, which was 
 afterwards amputated at the hospital established by our medical 
 men. Huleatt, the military chaplain, a noble fellow, took care of 
 him, and brought him on board. The poor old fellow was miser- 
 able when we first began our bad weather, and took to opium for 
 a solace. He coiled himself up, lit a little lamp, and smoked 
 fifteen pipes running, then went to sleep, to wake fifteen times 
 more wretched than before, and smoke again. He can speak no 
 Endish, and not even the Canton dialect of Chinese, being a 
 Shanghai man ; and to find out at what time he would like to eat,
 
 J 
 
 2 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 my tailor Atrick had to sit down and write the questions we asked^ 
 and receive written answers." 
 
 " April 22)td. 
 
 " We have just entered the sea of Pecheh, and it is blowing^ 
 hard and cold from north-east. We passed this morning some 
 rugged, barren islands, which lay about the entrance. There is 
 excitement in cruising about these seas, which are so little known. 
 If we go right or left of the straight course, through foul wind, 
 any moment may bring us on an island or rock. Except the 
 ' Bittern,' in 1855, I think no ship has been here since 1840. 
 There is no trade with Europeans ; the people are too poor to buy 
 any foreign luxuries, and no doubt are forbidden to sell us pro- 
 visions, so we shall be on short commons. We entered the yellow 
 sea witli a smooth sea, and fresh clear sky, the sea streaked with 
 discoloured muddy patches ; and if there was a wind I have no 
 doubt it would shew its right to the name. The tides are so swift, 
 and their direction so little known, that navigation is only safe for 
 us by day; we are the largest ship that ever visited these 
 parts." 
 
 " Off the Peiho, May, 1858. 
 
 " After tliree weeks' endeavour to negociate with the Chinese 
 court, we are going to take the forts which guard the entrance of 
 this river. All the time that we have spent here has been em- 
 Ijloyed by them in strengthening their works, and bringing down 
 some men, among whom are some five hundred cavalry, so that 
 the loss of them will have a greater effect than if they had been 
 taken at first. Count Putiatine, who, having been here before, is 
 better acquainted with the people than the rest of us, has advised 
 them in vain not to offer resistance. They say, ' we know the 
 English are very strong at sea, but on shore they cannot cope 
 with the Chinese. He has had a visit from Russian mission- 
 aries, belonging to the college at Pekin, who say that people there 
 are much excited, and that they have no doubt that the capture of
 
 Chap. II.] PEIHO RIVER. -^ 
 
 tlie forts will be followed by an instant desire to treat. They 
 came from Pekin by a fine broad causeway, by pursuing which 
 the distance to Pekin is shortened by one half, the river being 
 very winding. 'We are to go close in in gun boats and our own 
 boats to-night, and attack early to-morrow morning. I went to 
 look at the forts yesterday, and as we are not yet at war, was 
 allowed to look at them quite close, and see the place at which 
 it is intended that we should land." 
 
 " I was able to write to you from the forts, to say I was all 
 right. I embarked in ' Coromandel,' and went to Tientsin the day 
 after I wrote ; stopped there three days, and came back here three 
 days ago. I have been reading Sir G. Streeton's account of the 
 journey of the embassy of Lord Macartney- Neither the river 
 nor the people have changed since then at all, and his quaint 
 story is a perfect guide book to them. We were four days going 
 up the sixty miles, as it was all new, and necessary to send 
 edaireurs a-head, besides which the French ships were frequently 
 aground. Our track was very winding indeed, and through a 
 perfectly level country, well cultivated, near the banks, with 
 barley, wheat, millet, and vegetables ; the villages, which are very 
 poor, are built of sunburnt bricks (adobes), and there are fruit 
 trees in abundance. The people appear to be very poor and 
 dirty, and afraid of us ; ran to assist us if we wanted a rope 
 hauled, or to turn the vessel in the abrupt winds. The river was 
 full of large junks, which had brought and discharged grain from the 
 southern provinces. As the mandarins might at any moment set 
 them on fiire, and send them on top of us or sink them to block 
 up the river, we turned them out, I have often wondered at 
 people speaking Chinese with such vehemence and gesticulation, 
 but found it was quite necessary. If you say a thing quietly the}- 
 repeat the last word, look at you, and think no more about it. The 
 interpreter was telling me of this one day, and of ordering bul- 
 locks. 'We want bullocks.' 'Bullocks.' 'Let us have ten 
 
 D
 
 34 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 bullocks.' — ' have ten bullocks.' ' Yes,' vehemently, ' send us 
 down ten bullocks.' ' Ah, send ten bullocks.' Immense gesticu- 
 lation and a screech, ' yes, go away and bring at once ten bul- 
 locks.' ' Ah — ah — bullocks.' At last the interpreter screeches, 
 claps his hands, spreads his arms, and drives the people off like a 
 flock of geese. My stock of Chinese, and of patience, were both 
 too short for the work of driving the people off. All day was I 
 calling out, ' Chu-la ! chu la pen. Ta kua ! Tung pa tung ? " 
 On arriving at Tientsin we found a white flag flying ; soon twa 
 deputations of merchants and tradesmen came off with petitions, 
 setting forth that they had heard that the ship of our honourable 
 nation being refused leave to enter the river, had come in by 
 force. Now had we come to trade or to make war? If the 
 former, would we furnish a list of our merchandise, and they would 
 hasten to lay it before the Emperor, and get his leave to trade, 
 and give us whatever we asked. If we came for war, would we 
 give them time to remove their goods from the city. Probably 
 this was an offer to ransom the city. The only reply they got was^ 
 
 ' 6 bullocks. 
 ' 20 sheep. 
 ' Fowls. 
 'Fruit.'— 'Bring.' 
 
 written by the interpreter on the back of a visiting card ; and in- 
 stead of extortions, they must have been pleased to find that they 
 were compelled to receive payment for their few things which they 
 wished us to receive as a present, that we might have become in 
 some sort their debtors. A joss-house was ordered to be prepared 
 for Lord Elgin, and was nicely fitted up in the Chinese fashion ; 
 it must be the same as that in which Lord Macartney was received 
 sixty years ago. \Ve hear to-day that two plenipotentiaries of 
 higher rank and higher powers than any that have previously con- 
 ferred with English have arrived at Tientsin, and have opened 
 conferences with the European and United States plenipoten- 
 tiaries, who are all now there." 
 
 >x
 
 Chap. II.] T/ENTSLV. 35 
 
 " My last fortnight has been spent in preparations of all sorts. 
 Preparations for going to sea so as to be ready on the Admiral's 
 return ; preparations for landing our men again in case we had to 
 march on Pekin, equipping them with defences against the sun, 
 with haversacks for their food, bottles for water, &c. — one need to 
 be half a soldier. Plenipotentiaries have been sent down to negotiate 
 with our ambassador, and the treaty was to have been finished all 
 but the formal signature to-day. Lord Elgin has been living at 
 the expense of the city. When we arrived there we selected the 
 best looking temple near, and ordered the townspeople to fit it up 
 in the best style. They did it immediately, for they were only too 
 glad that their city was neither attacked nor plundered ; and in a 
 short time the joss-house was cleaned, papered, carpeted with red 
 cloth and embroidered dragons, and furnished with square uncom- 
 fortable seats, with covers of the same sort of stuff. Thirty servants 
 were appointed and put in uniform, and I suppose the attention 
 we exacted made them think much more of our ambassadors. 
 
 " Tientsin has been visited, and proves a dirty, wretched place. 
 The suburb is the best part, and Lord Elgin's house happens to be 
 the best looking building in the place. Roderick Dew was pelted as 
 he walked along, and had to make the best of his way oft' with the 
 loss of his hat, and when a party of marines went up, the gate 
 of the city was shut in their face. However, Osborn got over 
 the wall with half a dozen blue jackets, and came down on the 
 flank of the astonished crowd, who were well belaboured with 
 cutlass and scabbard, and the gate was opened to the marines, 
 who marched through and round the place, and chastised some of 
 the most impudent looking. I have been trying to write to 
 Mrs. E. about her little boy, who died in this ship, and find it 
 easier to tell her about him than I thought it would be ; he was 
 so good and pure a little fellow that I could not but give her com- 
 fort in speaking of him. When such a thing occurs, one feels 
 how great is the responsibility on one's shoulders when there are 
 so many young boys to look after, tenderly brought up, and not 
 
 D 2
 
 36 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. II. 
 
 judges of their own fitness to stand fatigue or climate. Two others 
 were lying dangerously ill at Tientsin ; they are better now, getting 
 stronger ; both are chamiing boys, full of spirit and honour." 
 
 Early in August, the Calcutta having touched at 
 Shanghai, went for a short time to Japan — being one of 
 the first English men-of-war which had been admitted 
 there ; and the first impressions of Japan are thus de- 
 scribed : — 
 
 " Nagasaki, August 6tli. 
 
 " A rainy day, pouring in torrents, but even that cannot hinder 
 me from feeling pleased with the place and people. We came in 
 three days ago, on a lovely morning. The harbour is a long arm 
 of the sea ; rocky points jut out on either side, hiding strangely 
 shaped boats with bright sides and flags. The hills are cultivated 
 in terraces to the top, and at this season clothed with fresh tender 
 green of vegetables and corn. Clumps of dark trees stand in the 
 ravines and on the tops of the highest hills. We are the first line 
 of battle ship that has been here, and so are crowded with intel- 
 ligent visitors. It is really a pleasure to see them, they are so 
 polite and clean, and well-mannered. Many speak Dutch and a 
 few words of English, and ask questions incessantly. Yesterday 
 I went Avith the Admiral to call on the Governor, and lunched at 
 his house or dined there, at half-past two. We were placed on 
 chairs on one side of a room, floored with several thicknesses of 
 matting, and with mat sides ; the Governor and his suite were 
 seated on sofas opposite to us. The conversation was sufficiently 
 tedious, having to be carried on through two interpreters, from 
 English to Dutch, by one of our seamen, and from Dutch to 
 Japanese, by an interpreter, who spoke to the Governor on hands 
 and knees, and with his head bent. One would expect to find 
 this servile and disgusting, but it appeared to me to be merely a 
 form of respect, and the manner of speaking to the man on his 
 knees was always polite. Servants brought cups of tea, then
 
 Chap. II.J JAPAN. 37 
 
 trays of sweetmeats, at which we nibbled ; after cups of water to 
 remove the taste, came very handsome black Japanese trays, with 
 a broth of fowl and vermicelli, broiled pieces of fresh pork, and 
 bits of fish on separate japanned platters, and a shallow red cup 
 of salt — very nasty. After pecking at these came another tray 
 with hard boiled eggs, a cup full of capital lobster salad, and 
 lobster floating about with tough mushrooms. Everything is de- 
 lightfully clean after Chinese dirt. Just now all the party who 
 were yesterday at the Governor's, were presented with their plates 
 of sweetmeats from yesterday's dinner, nicely tied up with tinsel 
 thread." 
 
 The Calcutta returned to Hong Kong at the end of 
 August, 1858. During all this time Goodenough suffered, 
 as did most people, a good deal from fever at intervals, and 
 once from a sunstroke, from ^^Jlich, however, he soon 
 recovered. About this time he thus speaks of the ship's 
 company of the Raleigh : — . 
 
 " Hong Kong, December lyh. 
 
 " The old ' Raleighs ' hold together to the name and to the 
 ship wonderfully. We were only six months together, and \vere 
 separated a year and a half ago, yet the men still talk of being 
 Raleigh's, or Wiley's, as they say ; and on every ship I go on board 
 on the station, there is some fellow who comes up with a pleased 
 grin, to be recognised and nodded to. I never saw such espif de 
 corps before among seamen. That sentence in the advertisement 
 for men, ' none but the right sort need apply,' first got the men a 
 good deal of abuse from other ships' crews, but finally separated 
 them from other men, and made them endeavour to earn the title 
 of the right sort." 
 
 In February, 1859, ^1"^^ Calcutta was ordered home, 
 and was paid off at Plymouth on August 12th of the same
 
 38 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. 1 1. 
 
 year. Immediately on arriving in England, Captain (now 
 Admiral) King Hall proceeded to another command ; and 
 on Commander Goodenough devolved the task of paying 
 off the ship. She was dismantled with such rapidity as to 
 elicit a compliment from the authorities.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SECOND VOYAGE TO CHINA IN H.M.S. RENARD — PENANG — PEIHO — 
 SHANGHAI — NINGPO— NANKIN — SUEZ CANAL — COMMAJK)ER OF H.M.S. 
 REVENGE — PROMOTION, 
 
 On paying off the " Calcutta," Commander GooJcnough 
 spent a few weeks with his relations in different parts of 
 England ; but his holiday was to be of short duration. 
 When he had been in England about a month, came the 
 news of the second and unsuccessful attack on the Taku 
 forts. Goodenough, feeling that the knowledge of China 
 Avhich he possessed could be made of use, immediately 
 volunteered to return to that station. On the i8th of 
 .September, just five weeks after he had left the Calcutta, 
 he writes to his sister : — 
 
 " I hope you will have half expected what I am going to tell 
 you. When I heard of the terrible news from China, I could not 
 do otherwise than offer my services to go out there again. I went 
 to the Admiralty therefore, yesterday, and saw Sir Michael Sey- 
 mour, who happened to be there, and he told me that I should in 
 all probability be employed." 
 
 A day or two after he was appointed to the command of 
 the " Renard " sloop, which was then lying at Sheerness, 
 and which he joined on September 22nd. The preparations 
 were hastened forward as much as possible. He left
 
 40 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Sheerness on the loth of October, and finally sailed from 
 Spithead on October i8th, 1859, having been but a little 
 over two months in England. Of his doings in the Renard, 
 Commander Goodenough, in a short resume of his life 
 written some years later, gives the follov/ing account : — 
 
 "I left England Oct. 18, and went to Hong Kong by way of 
 Teneriffe, Ascension, Penang, and Singapore. From Hong Kong, 
 in April, i860, I went to Chusan, and was at the second capture 
 of the Taku forts in June, afterwards taking command of a flotilla 
 of boats to Tongku and Pekin, my ship remaining at Tientsin. I 
 left Tientsin in November, and i)assed my winter partly at 
 Shanghai and pardy in the Gulf of Pesheli, and in March, 1861, 
 remained as Senior officer at Shanghai and then at Ningpo, 
 which place I put in a defensible state against the rebels. Thence 
 in August I went as Senior officer to Nankin, and remained there 
 till Sir J. Hope allowed me to return to England in November, 
 1 86 1, which I did, meeting one of my brothers at Point-de-Galle 
 and the other in Eg^-pt in January, 1862." 
 
 The reason for his returning to England at that time 
 was, partly that his health was weakened with being so 
 long in China — he was constantly suffering from fever and 
 ague — but still more that he felt he was losing ground pro- 
 fessionally from being so long away from England, and 
 getting behindhand as regarded inventions, or whatever 
 Avas new and active in the naval service. He was never 
 so happy as when fully employed, and often in writing 
 says, " Hard work, as usual, agrees with me ; " or, " I am 
 fortunate in having always something to do ; " " For a 
 long time I have never been a week at anchor," and such 
 expressions as these. Having a constant desire to be
 
 Chap. III.] HJf.S. RENARD. 4 1 
 
 always learning something, as soon as he felt he had 
 mastered any subject, or any piece of work, and that his 
 full powers were no longer required, he sought for some 
 new object on which to expend them. 
 
 An officer who served with him in the Renard has 
 spoken of him and his influence at that date as follows : — 
 
 " Goodenough was a man not thoroughly appreciated by those 
 who did not know him intimately. His manner on duty could be 
 as uncompromising as his actions, and it required a man to know 
 him well to understand fully the stern truth with which he could 
 reprove negligence or wilful default ; but to those who had the 
 privilege of serving vvith or under him, his manner, whilst never 
 passing over a lapse of duty, was singularly loving and attractive. 
 There are many officers now serving (1875) who date their best 
 feelings for the honour and well-being of the service from the time 
 when they first came under Goodenough's fostering care. One 
 only had to try to do one's duty to ensure his kindly smile, his 
 readiness to condone any error in judgment, and his pleasant 
 way of showing the right thing to do. As a specimen of his at- 
 tractive qualities, the writer of this note, who was a member of 
 an ill-assorted mess in Croodenough's first regular command, 
 recollects that the only bond of union, the only thing on which all 
 were agreed, was their love and respect for the skipper. As a 
 specimen of his ability, the -writer was present on an occasion, 
 when, without the slightest warning, Goodenough was called upon 
 to verify the nationality of several filibusters, which he did to their 
 astonishment, by speaking to them fluently in no less than seven 
 different languages. These were only two of the many good 
 qualities upon which want of space prevents enlarging. I am 
 sure that those who have served under him, whilst feeling pride at 
 having been associated with such an officer, can have no better 
 ambition than that they may in some degree resemble him." 
 
 The following extracts are from letters written from the
 
 42 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Renard, and from a journal kept while on board that 
 ship ; on the first page of which, after writing his name, he 
 had written : — 
 
 " Teach me to live that I may dread 
 The grave as little as my bed." 
 
 "H.M.S. 'Rexard,' at Sea, December, 1859. 
 
 " We are in a free and exhilarating air, and have prodigious 
 appedtes ; the misfortune is we have so Httle to satisfy the latter. 
 Two men are beginning to suffer from sore gums, from being so 
 long on salt meat. I send them carrots and turnips, but they 
 won't last long, and we have still a fortnight before we can sight 
 land. The weather is so lovely that I am beginning to paint and 
 polish ship and guns, and to exercise, and shall pop at a target 
 the first fine day. I have been thinking of what I should do if I 
 find we are at war, and if I fall in with a French steam gun-vessel, 
 and I have decided on having my long guns on the bow, and short 
 ones on bow and beam, commence firing and close ; load the last 
 round when at 500 yards with round shot and grape, and fire at 
 200 yards, then prepare to board, load short guns again with 
 grape, run alongside, fire, and board. My men begin to be 
 capital swordsmen, they are full of life and vigour, and their 
 instructor is blessed with good temper, which effects wonders. I 
 like them better every day. The officers, too, are all anxious to 
 make the ship shine amongst others. It is a long voyage on salt 
 provisions. Fifty days from port, and eighty from fresh beef, as 
 at Ascension we had only a couple of days' turtle. I send them 
 some compressed vegetables, and some tins of carrots and 
 turnips, which are very good." 
 
 "H.M.S. 'Renard,' March, 1S60. 
 
 " I am en route from Singapore to Penang, a second time, to 
 tow transports down, which seems to be about the most honour- 
 able and glory-compelling service that I shall have to perform
 
 Chap. III.] H.M.S. RENARD. 43 
 
 this campaign, as it seems probable we shall not go up to Tientsin, 
 and that the Taku forts may be taken by land forces in their un- 
 guarded rear. I found Singapore pleasant, though it constantly 
 rained. I used to dine at the tabic d'hote of the Esperanza hotel, 
 kept by a Spanish lady, a Sevillana, married to a French count, 
 who had plantations in Java, which failed to return him any 
 profit, and in their misfortune his wife took first one and finally all 
 the hotels in Singapore. After dinner I sat with her and Sir R. 
 McClure in the verandah, talking French, Spanish, or English, 
 according to the nationality of the last speaker, for there is an 
 innumerable variety of guests there." 
 
 " March 22nd. 
 
 " Since I left Penang on Saturday last, I have towed the head- 
 quarters of the Rifles to Singapore, where I arrived at 2.30 a.^i. 
 Went to see Sir R. McClure at 4 a.m., found him asleep with 
 windows open and doors locked ; leaped in through the window, 
 and slept till he awoke. He naturally thought I was a thief, 
 and came to the defensive attitude when he got up and heard me 
 jump to my feet. Started again at 6 a.m., and have just picked 
 up two more troopers with the remainder of the Rifles. Penang is 
 very odd and very amusing. The people are very anxious to be 
 attentive to us, and naval ofticers are at a premium here. 
 
 *' Last night I met some of my Rifles whom I towed in, and 
 find some of them knew W. at Benares. One H. had begun 
 life in the navy, where he spent five years, and did not enter 
 the army till twenty-one ; he found his naval education of great 
 use ; it has led since to his getting staff appointments. I suppose 
 his increased handiness may be owing to his having seen more 
 of service and life. It is interesting to hear these little things, 
 especially as you know how averse I am to special training for 
 either army or navy until the life is actually begun. I triumphantly 
 cite Lord Dundonald now, in support of arguments on this side. 
 He entered the navy at sixteen."
 
 44 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 " April Ith. 
 
 " I hope that I shall now start for Hong Kong, as this is m)- 
 fifth load and seventh ship full of troops, and I find it both 
 monotonous and fatiguing to myself and my men. I always 
 enjoy going in or out of Singapore. I pass through clusters of 
 rounded islands which have been partly cleared of their dark- 
 green trees, and their place supplied by fresh grass. Ridges of 
 rock run here and there into the glassy calm water joined by belts 
 of rich yellow sand, and junks with tanned sails, or prahs with 
 bellying white ones and a strip of red flag, pass between in every 
 direction." 
 
 " June. yd. 
 
 "I left Hong Kong ten days ago, encountered a gale, and had to 
 anchor in various snug bays along the coast. Will you believe it ? 
 I was actually sick again. It was rather unexpected, for I had 
 hoped that I was well of that complaint for three years at least, 
 but the weather was really bad, and things flew about my cabin ia 
 an alarming way." 
 
 " In the Peh-tang-iio, August 5/Z'. 
 " On the first of this month I was signalled to go in after the 
 gunboats as soon as I could find water enough. I followed, but 
 unfortunately grounded on a point just inside. It was a good deal 
 my own fault for not keeping a stricter look out, but I was rather 
 jockeyed by another despatch-vessel on to the bank. There was no 
 firing, so it did not much signify in that respect, but I was much 
 vexed at looking clumsy in my first essay before the Admiral. As 
 we ha\'e not to fight here, the Admiral has set me to work to buoy 
 and mark the channel, which gratifies me in my present state of 
 humility after my mishap, as it is a business which requires care 
 and accuracy. I am always glad to have more to do. The 
 troops are all disembarking, and we make the village at the 
 raotith of this river our liead-quarters and depot. Provisions and 
 stores arc being landed as well. A reconnoisance ])ushed out
 
 Chap. III.] H.M.S. RENARD. 45 
 
 two mornings after landing, and found a camp of 4,000 cavalry- 
 three miles off, who exchanged shots, wounding fourteen men, 
 and stood their ground. The cavalry are, as usual, the prettiest 
 sight in the army. Boats full of Probyn's and Fane's horse, have 
 passed in their blue and red turbans, sheep skins of burnt sienna, 
 and red cummerbunds. A gunboat went alongside a pier, and in 
 seven minutes and a half, sixty-one troop horses and men, all 
 accoutered,and with three days' provisions, were on shore, mounted 
 ready to engage an enemy." 
 
 " Aiigust 22nd. 
 
 " It is all over, and except some half-a-dozen gunboats, no naval 
 men have heard the whistle of a shot. I am just recovering from 
 the labours of the day before yesterday. The road was in capital 
 order, and I walked to the camp, and as near as possible to 
 the point of attack. I intended to go right on, but a guard 
 and a staff-officer had been left behind at the camp, with orders 
 that no one was to pass except on duty, and all the troops not 
 engaged were confined to their own camps. I was sold, for I 
 had just put a bottle of claret, a tongue, and half a cheese in my 
 wallet to share with Barry or Bedingfeld. The next best thing 
 to do was to sit in the gate, and hear what was going on from 
 passers-by, staff-officers, wounded men, or artillery officers going to 
 the camp for ammunition. It seems that there were two ditches 
 to be crossed, and a mud loop-holed parapet to be scrambled over. 
 Some sappers and the marines were to carry a pontoon bridge 
 and scaling-ladders, and the 44th and 67th were to storm. The 
 artillery kept up a fire for four hours, and the steamers advanced. 
 The Chinese kept up their fire to the last, and even after the 
 ladders were planted, pushed some men down with spears, 
 and shot several others with jingalls through their loop-holes. 
 Our Chinese coolies behaved very well, and were very useful in 
 carrying off the sick. Their step is very even, and their bamboos 
 have a light spring, which makes them the best stretcher bearers 
 possible. The French wounded went to the rear on ponies, or
 
 46 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 walked three miles, whereas our hospitals were but one mile and 
 a half. In the afternoon a tremendous thunder-shower came on,. 
 and ground, which thirty-pounders had gone over at a trot, 
 became laborious for a single horse. I started to return, and 
 walked six miles in the mud and wet, and then nearly gave in ;, 
 but one of Probyn's gave me a cup of chocolate, and I trudged 
 on till eight o'clock, and begged a lodging from a kind doctor 
 of the 31st, out on picket, and hobbled in very stiff the next 
 morning." 
 
 " September 22nd. 
 
 " I Started early to reconnoitre the river (Peiho), and rowed, or 
 tracked, my boats as high as a place called Yungtsun by 10 p.m., 
 forty miles. I went on till twelve, and then slept rather uncom- 
 fortably in the stem of the boat till 5 a.m., when I was rewarded 
 by a sight of the splendid range of hills at the back of Pekin. 
 Masses of Indian corn and millet, interspersed with villages half 
 hid under trees, led my eye to the foot of the hills. I tracked on 
 till eight, and was then obliged to return to time, having discovered 
 beyond a doubt, that small boats and large river barges could 
 convey the baggage of the army so far. I was on board my ship 
 in forty-eight hours from starting, having done ninety miles at 
 least." 
 
 " October 6th. 
 
 "The river transport is now in full force, and we have about two- 
 hundred boats, manned by eight hundred natives, and kept in 
 order by two hundred seamen and their officers. The boats are 
 chiefly those which are used in the salt trade, as they do not draw 
 much water : and when the owners found their boats pressed for 
 service, they grinned, and readily accompanied them. They were 
 really astounded when they were told that they should receive 
 two dollars a-day hire, but soon rose to the level of their new 
 situation, and sing out loudly that they have nothing to buy food 
 with if they happen to be a day in arrear of their pay. At first
 
 Chap. III.] H.M.S. RENARD. 4- 
 
 the boats were sent in small divisions in charge of a lieutenant, 
 but a fortnight ago a rumour came of bands of Tartars on the left 
 bank, and it was thought necessary to form a grand flotilla of 
 three divisions, with an escort of two hundred men. I went with 
 a division of ninety boats in all, taking my gig, and sleeping in a 
 covered boat which contained some cargo. Our first and second 
 days were over the same ground I had traversed in my gig, the 
 river winding between fields of maize and millet, and kept in 
 its course by high embankments of great age. Mud villages are 
 here and there on the highest part of the bank, with good vege- 
 table gardens around. The road constantly touches the river, and 
 the army having so far marched peaceably and with plenty of 
 food, we found the villagers most alert in bringing fruit and ice, 
 besides fowls and vegetables ; they called out ' Combien 1 ' ' How 
 much ? ' with pleased faces, showing they had been well paid by 
 French and English. Everywhere along the banks labourers 
 were irrigating their gardens, or cutting their com, as if no 
 English were near, and only gazed stolidly at us unless they had 
 something to sell. The alarm about Tartars proved false, and I 
 had no hesitation in walking along the banks. After two days' 
 constant journeying through corn, I was glad to see the hills 
 which I had caught sight of at my highest point on my first trip, 
 and to find some brick houses in the villages, and stone bridges 
 over small canals. The dwellings had hitherto been small mud 
 huts. Just above Yang-touw, and before reaching Ho-si-wo, I 
 came on a curious sort of flood-gates, apparently for irrigating a 
 neighbouring district. It was faced throughout with capital granite, 
 and had a well-finished white marble monument on its mound 
 to the north, standing on the back of a tortoise. The monument 
 is in three pieces : the upper represents twining dragons, the next 
 has an inscription, with a border of crabs and lizards in bas-relief, 
 and the foot is a fine large tortoise, I have seen such things 
 elsewhere, but never so good and perfect an one as this. There 
 had once been a roof over it, with the pole in front which always 
 accompanies a temple. I felt very much inclined to make a prize
 
 48 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 of him for Sydenham, but was deterred by the idea of 'barbarians' 
 stripping the country, as well as by his serious weight. We reached 
 Ho-si-wo at noon on the third day, and stayed all next forenoon. 
 It was a town of 10,000 people, and quite abandoned. 
 
 " A party of French overtook me at four in the afternoon, while 
 I was halting to collect my boats, and a long way ahead of the 
 French boats. They each had a mule or a donkey, and presently 
 the owners came to claim them, and kotowed to me to restore 
 their property. I could not resist their wretched appeal, and as I 
 could not order, tried to persuade the Frenchmen to give them 
 up, and of course got an immense deal of impertinence from 
 them. I began with, 'Come, give this poor devil back his 
 animal, since it is evident that it is his property, and not yours.' 
 * Ah ! Chinois, c'est a toi, Jicin ! prends ta muk,' and one gave 
 his up. 
 
 "Another was rather drunk and stupid, and would not give his 
 up, till I threatened to wait for his officer and report him. The 
 last I tried to restore was led by a smart little chasseur, who I 
 thought would be well disposed. He began with ' Who knows if 
 this is the right owner ? ' tiens, Chiiwis ; and then he made the 
 beast start back when he tried to take him. I began to get angry, 
 and spoke bad French, said I would report him, and wait for 
 his officer, and tell him how he had behaved to me. The little 
 chasseur was perfectly cool : ' Behaviour, vraiment ! what 
 behaviour ? ' ' Don't you see that I am an officer ? ' Really he 
 didn't know the difference of ranks, and took off his cap. ' I 
 presume you do not give an order to me ; I shall present this 
 animal to my lieutenant : we are terribly in want of animals for 
 land transport ; if my General were here I should present it to 
 him. I am going back to join my convoy. Adieu, vion lieute- 
 nant — moil capitaine^ looking back over his shoulder, and making 
 a supplementary bow. I was angry, but laughing at the fellow's 
 coolness and impudence, when in ten minutes I saw the same 
 animal being led by one of our own escort, and was told that the 
 fool, who had just heard me find fault with the Frenchman, had
 
 Chap. III.] H.M.S. RENARD. 49 
 
 actually given three dollars for it. Then I am afraid I was furious, 
 for the Frenchman had completely done us all, and the foolish 
 escort had to give up his beast and lose his money, which I was 
 just going to repay him in my softness, when he saw fit to be im- 
 pudent, and was punished instead of repaid. 
 
 " The Admiral has given me the business of landing provisions 
 and stores for the winter for the garrison of Tientsin, and it is 
 nearly half done." 
 
 " On the Bar of the Peiho, November K^t/i, i860. 
 
 " I am rather astonished to find myself here, as I had just made 
 up my mind to pass the whole winter at Tientsin. So sure did I 
 feel about it, that I had begun a negotiation for a capital grey 
 horse, for riding to Pekin and other parts of the country during 
 the winter. The very next morning I met the Admiral, who said, 
 ' A fine high tide, Goodenough ; will you come and dine ? ' An 
 hour after he sent for me, and asked me in how short a time I 
 could get away, gave me my orders, and in five hours I was away, 
 with all my debts paid, pony on board, and with an odd feehng 
 concerning my own identity. The high water carried me success- 
 fully thus far, and I am now with F. Marten, waiting another rise 
 of the waters to carry me to the Fleet. I was surprised when I 
 neared the mouth of the river to find myself cutting through a 
 floating sheet of sludgey ice. It had formed on the flat ground in 
 the night, and had been carried into the stream by the high tide 
 in the morning. The thermometer during the night had fallen to 
 23°, with a biting north wind. Last night it was from east, and 
 with constant sleet, which has not. yet melted from off my sails, or 
 the bastions of the Taku forts." 
 
 " November 28//?. 
 
 " The ice is becoming a more decided obstacle. I have not 
 been able to get out, and am again at Taku. It is often difficult 
 to pull to the shore, but the Chinese push and pole their clumsy 
 boats, with fowls and ducks, and keep up a cry of ' How much '
 
 50 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 all day. Did I describe to you my Mahommedan baker at 
 Tientsin ? He lived next door to a temple on which we had a 
 guard. His cakes were so good that he attracted universal 
 custom, and before we left he had a vocabulary of English, French, 
 and Russian phrases which he brought out with great rapidity : 
 ' Ingleez sponge-cake, pain de Sucre ; I say take sponge-cake, 
 dis done, no cash.' I used to find my ship's company there on a 
 Sunday afternoon, eating cakes and drinking tea. There are 
 numbers of Mahommedans all over this part of the country. At 
 Tientsin they have a handsome mosque, into which I went dcs- 
 cahado. The priests wear a turban and peaked cap, like those in 
 the illustrations to the Arabian Nights. They made great friends 
 with the Punjaubees who went to worship. All the bakers' appa- 
 ratus is a mud oven, two feet wide and a foot high, and a deal 
 board. As fast as white rolls can be baked they are put into 
 baskets and carried away on rafts made of five logs of wood 
 to our ships. Like all Chinamen, they learn our wants in an 
 instant, and get up a small trade. I hope that for once we may 
 do these people service without alloy, and be able to leave them 
 with a feeling that we have benefited them. It is pleasant to be 
 liked even by these poor fishermen, and it is always sad to feel 
 we often do wrong and violence, and that wherever we go our 
 visits are remembered with as much fear as pleasure." 
 
 " Hope Sound, Miatow Island, December \2)th, i860. 
 " Will it bring you any nearer to China to see a mandarin's 
 card, eight or nine inches long, and in plaited folds ? I got it 
 yesterday by going to see the chief man of Tang-chu-fu, a large 
 walled town on the mainland, from which we want supplies, and 
 which from the beginning of the campaign was to be our head- 
 quarters in Shantung. It is a dreary-looking walled town, with a 
 picturesque fort, with a narrow entrance between two high piers. 
 A temple, with storey rising above storey on terraces, lies on a 
 rugged point on one side, and on the other a stony point leads 
 to a broad sandy beach, above which rise the walls and roofs of
 
 Chap. III.] TANG-CHU-FU. 5 1 
 
 the city. Range beyond range of purple and blue hills are 
 beyond, and on the top of the most distant is a temple and 
 pagoda dedicated to the * Good Mother.' A small mandarin came 
 down to receive me, and begged me to walk into the temple of 
 the ' Peaceful Sea,' while he told his chief that we wished to see 
 him ; but we replied we wished to save time, and preferred to 
 walk. Our friend evidendy expected a blowing-up from his 
 master for not having stopped us, and entreated us to remain, and 
 at the gate was reinforced by an old man with a seedy old felt 
 cap, who gave a dozen good reasons at the top of his voice why 
 we should not enter the town, but did not succeed in stopping us. 
 We walked smartly to the Yamun, and there, to our amusement, 
 met our old friend with a smarter hat and a blue button, and in 
 his best coat, smiling and grimacing a welcome. While our cards 
 went in we chaffed him on the soundness of his lungs, and hoped 
 he was not tired with his run, while he stolidly pretended not to 
 be the same man. He turned out to be the Commandant's aide- 
 de-camp. The Commandant himself is a pink button man, with 
 a stupid grave face, who gave us good tea and nasty sweetmeats 
 while we presented our letter from Prince Koum. Part of my 
 business was to announce that Lord John Hay, as the Admiral's 
 deputy, would come over to make an official visit, and I was to 
 manage that the Commandant should come to the beach to 
 receive him. He agreed at once to do as I wished, and to-day 
 Lord John Hay and I went over, with Captains Willes and 
 Day, of the ' Sphynx.' Both the Commandant and Prefect came 
 down in their dresses of ceremony — coats of real sable. We then 
 went through the city to the Yamun in the most ridiculous pro- 
 cession — Lord J. Hay and the mandarin in sedan chairs, the rest 
 of us on rough ponies with native saddles ; ragged ruffians carrying 
 red canopies, others beating gongs, and absurd boys in Chinese 
 felt pot hats carrying wooden swords. They went before and 
 behind us, howling like dogs baying at the moon. Guards of 
 ragged soldiers were posted at each gate, and fired a salute of 
 three guns as we passed. While Lord J. Hay did the business, 
 
 E 2
 
 52 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Captain Willes suggested that the Commandant should give the 
 rest of us horses and a guide, and send us outside the to^vn. A 
 sedate mandarin took us out, and was very officious in keeping 
 back the crowd and regulating our pace, when, to his astonish- 
 ment, away went one or two like rockets, pitching into their 
 beasts with sword scabbards, and of course the rest of us followed, 
 scampering along on the little rough ponies over uneven fields, 
 shouting with laughter. When we returned to the Yamun the 
 business was finished, and we went down to the beach, where 
 the mandarins said 'Good-bye,' and then went to a little look- 
 out on one of the high pier-heads, where they appeared very grand 
 and handsome in their silks and furs. I imagine it was intended 
 to be a most cordial reception ; generally every form has to be 
 stipulated for beforehand, and the number of times 'Hwaylai' 
 ('come back') is to be said is laid down by the board of rites. 
 I hope the products of my mission will be fat mutton and 
 cabbages. The latter are just half-a-farthing a pound. I bought 
 some for my men, and told the man who sold them to keep the 
 change. To-day he grinned, and told the passers-by, ' That taya 
 gave me a dollar yesterday for 800 cash worth." 
 
 " At Sea, December \\th. 
 
 " I was ordered off at seven this morning to go to Shanghai ; 
 so I lose my mail. It has just passed me in the ' Ringdove.' It 
 is a curious sort of feeling to know as one passes the mail, there in 
 the corner of that craft's bread-room are my papers and letters. 
 It's all about Garibaldi, and whether he has gone on to Rome, or 
 whether he hasn't ; and yet it must go fifty miles, and I must go 
 a thousand before I can get hold of it." . 
 
 " December 16th. 
 
 " It is one o'clock in the morning and I have just passed the 
 
 Yang-tze lightship to my satisfaction ; the tide was washing me 
 
 to and fro, and I began to doubt my position. ' Lightship ahoy ! 
 
 Hulloa. I want a pilot.' 'Ain't got none ; they be all out. Go
 
 Chap. III.] MIATOIV ISLANDS. 53 
 
 on a-head full speed,' and that is probably all I and the lightman 
 shall ever have to say to each other. I hear W. calling the 
 'deep six/ and till he lowers to 'deep four' I can stay down and 
 wait for the chocolate Corporal P. is making for me." 
 
 " February \2th. 
 
 " I am Avriting this off Miatow Islands, my search for ' Furious ' 
 having been in vain. I finished it by landing at the Shalin-tien 
 Island, about 500 yards long, where lives a hideous old priest who 
 serves a temple visited by crews of junks. The tide sweeps 
 strongly round it and throws up all sorts of waifs and strays from 
 the fleet, and the flowers and incense-sticks at the feet of his gods 
 were stuck into square gin bottles, and jars which held preserved 
 fruits. \Ve had to launch our boat over a great sheet of ice in 
 order to land. We are excessively fortunate in being in this 
 glorious climate instead of Hongkong or Amoy, I should be all 
 the better for passing five or six years in a temperate zone, I 
 find I cannot go on with impunity in the tropics." 
 
 " It is a misfortune for our service, that as a navy, it is so long 
 since it had anything to do. There is an evident disposition in 
 the papers to depreciate the service, and they seize readily on 
 anything they can find fault with. I will not, for a moment, say 
 that no fault is to be found ; but harm is done by attributing the 
 errors to a wrong source, and the fruit of it will be that the 
 Admiralty will be at last goaded to apply the remedies of the 
 papers instead of gradually making reforms recommended by the 
 best officers. The question of pay is nothing compared to the 
 much greater ones of the Admiralty keeping faith with the men 
 in granting leave, allowing choice of stations and ships, and 
 sanctioning exchanges, and, above all, pursuing an even treatment 
 of the men. It is quite necessary now to form a permanent navy 
 of as many as can be obtained, who will live in barracks, as 
 Admiral E. proposes, and take part in dockyard work till it is 
 time for them to go to sea."
 
 54 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 "We may laugh cheerily at the wrongs we suffer at the hands 
 of the world ; they leave no sting except when we feel that our 
 own folly has brought them on us, and then but a slight one com- 
 pared with the misery of feeling that our wrongs to others are the 
 bad examples of feebleness we have shown. This misery would be 
 quite overwhelming but for the assurance of complete forgiveness 
 for Christ's sake." 
 
 " Shanghai, March I'^th. 
 
 " The scoundrel rebels have come near here again, and are 
 burning villages in the neighbourhood. They have excited our 
 anger by enticing away a number of seamen of the fleet as well as 
 of merchant ships, by offering them sixty dollars down on the 
 nail, and sixty dollars a month pay. I suspect that the former is 
 all that they will get. The grog-shop keepers as usual are to 
 blame ; they offer credit to the men who are on leave, and who 
 get so hopelessly into debt that they close with the offer of bounty 
 in order to clear their debts. None of my men have gone yet, 
 as they have money enough to keep them going. In fact, they 
 have behaved very well. One man, who broke his leave, was 
 sent off by a fresh batch as soon as they found him, and he was 
 the only one. To-day, in publicly punishing a man who had left a 
 boat on duty, I said that I suspected some of his messmates who 
 were on leave had offered to treat him, and tempted him away, on 
 which all the men who had been on shore at the time asked to be 
 allowed to clear themselves from the imputation, and did so, 
 which I thought a good sign, and told them that I was glad they 
 were jealous of their good name, and that they felt themselves on 
 such terms with their captain that they could come forward 
 promptly to assert it." 
 
 " Entering Geku, Easter-day. 
 
 "Going at full speed, and for once shaking a little. The 
 Reverend Father Monsignor Mouly is reading his newspapers, and 
 a French captain has got mine, so I can finish my letter. They
 
 Chap. III.] GULF OF PECHELL 55 
 
 came on board yesterday, and I am putting them both up, as 
 my officers have some English officers and an adventurer to take 
 care of. Monsignor has been twenty-seven years in China, 
 • latterly as Metropolitan, and it was from his mission, the Vallce des 
 eaux noires, that Hue and Gabet started on their travels. He 
 has almost forgotten his French, and was hardly understood at 
 the funeral of the murdered French over whom he pronounced an 
 oration. As Lent is over, I have the satisfaction of seeing him 
 pitch into my victuals with a good appetite. The French captain 
 is quite a gentleman ; he belongs to the staff, speaks English, and 
 is an agreeable fellow. I quite wish I were going to take them 
 all the way to Shanghai instead of to Gefu only." 
 
 "Gulf of-Pecheli. 
 
 " People are quite right in saying a return home damages one's 
 prospects, and so it does if one's prospects are all included in the 
 word promotion. But there are so many things besides promotion 
 which affect one's welfare that that ought not to have too much 
 weight. It were better to defer one's advancement for two or 
 three years than to pass them in inaction. I feel very decidedly 
 about the benefit of a return home, not for the health of my body, 
 but of my mind. I have lost sight of home things and home 
 feelings far too long already, and might not again have the oppor- 
 tunity of seeing Fred for years. Therefore I shall stand by my 
 intention to come home overland, if the Renard is not ordered 
 home by the mail of about March loth. I shall never wait for 
 bad health, for I am sure that if that fail it will be altogether, and 
 then it will be too late." 
 
 '' I have had an eight days' trip into the silk country, which 
 has been exceedingly interesting and curious, — curious, as I have 
 been issuing my commands at various places to the rebels, or 
 Taepings, as though I was their chief. 
 
 " They had thought fit to interfere with people of ours and 
 boats bearing an English flag, and had taken a quantity of silk
 
 56 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Avhich they were obliged to restore. The mulberries, like the vines 
 on the banks of the Rhine, are disappointing ; they are pruned 
 down to about six feet high, and being trimmed to grow as large 
 leaves as possible, bear very little fruit. The Changmaws (long- 
 haired ones) have nearly all the country, and though infinite 
 rascals, will overrun it without a check. I was mistaken for a 
 rebel myself, at a place where there were seventy boats of braves 
 of the Imperialist side ; they fled at the sight of my four-oared gig, 
 drowning several people in their panic, but when they saw that 
 my boat was quite alone, and found out that I was a friend, they 
 wanted to make me responsible for the death of the drowned, 
 blew up their matches, flourished swords, cut at me, and for ten 
 minutes I was thinking how many of them I should be able to 
 dispose of if I had lost my temper. Fortunately I kept it, and 
 my revolver in my pocket, and only flourished my umbrella, and, 
 thanks to an ebb current, drifted away from the place and the 
 tumult while talking to a magistrate who came down to see me. 
 
 " I am going to Ningpo to put that place in order against the 
 rebels, though I am forbidden to take an active part, i.e., to fire 
 on them. My business will be to trace fortifications, plant guns 
 and bully the mandarins into execution in their own cause, a 
 much more difficult task than fighting." 
 
 " Ningpo, July 14. 
 
 " I live on deck altogether, only go to my cabin to dress, ride at 
 six round the town, breakfast in the French manner at ten or eleven, 
 and dine or not as the humour compels me at four, after which 
 ride or walk again, and go to see the American missionary, the 
 French smirs de cJiaritc, or other Europeans. There are some 
 charming sceurs. They have an Enfants trouvcs establishment 
 under the walls of tlie town, with one hundred and thirty girls 
 from two to twenty years old, whom they teach to read, write, and 
 embroider. It was charming to see the affectionate manner of 
 these very poor, draggly, often deformed, creatures, with the quiet 
 neat, white-capped saurs. A French bishop acknowledged to me
 
 CHAP. III.] NINGPO. 57 
 
 that the baby tower is a system in China— an institution— and in 
 Ningpo there is more than one. I believe it is quite a toss-up 
 whether a poor deformed baby is taken to the Chinese baby tower 
 or to the Eiifcvits trouv'cs. I feel it a greater nuisance than before 
 not to be able to talk Chinese. The Chinese have no reserve, 
 and would talk or argue on any subject, and my daily visits to the 
 city throw me in the way of them. Even the priests are ready to 
 talk about their gods, and their manner of worship, while they 
 civilly give you a cup of tea, and a seat, and a water-jug. It is 
 , excruciating to talk through a Cantonese pigeon English, but 
 better than nothing. I asked for the translation of a poetical 
 sentence written by the Governor of Nganhwin, and got for 
 answer in a sing-song voice, — ' He say, you know, that fresh 
 water, you know, come down top-side that mountain, he makey 
 wash that heart, you know.' " 
 
 " Ningpo, July. 
 
 " A French lieutenant came here a few days ago, and I showed 
 him about, and happened to visit a temple which has been newly 
 decorated. It was full of people, and chiefly of very well dressed 
 ladies of the upper classes, a very rare sight. They were not at 
 all frightened at the foreigners, and went from one god to another, 
 kotowing, and oftering sticks of incense, attended either by a 
 patient husband, or an old servant, who held a reserve of incense, 
 and helped them along. The French lieutenant was convinced 
 that some of them were rather pleased with him, and I think one 
 was well pleased at being admired for her dress and coiffure. We 
 met her in several different chambers, but at last my friend's atten- 
 tion was taken off by a very modest pretty young wife, attended 
 by her husband, and rather plainly and simply dressed. Our first 
 friend was then piqued : she made little remarks to her servant 
 on the other's dress, followed her, and when she passed before us, 
 turned about, and stepped backwards and forwards as if she had 
 forgotten to burn incense before some one of the numerous gods. 
 Her hair was all drawn back, and finished behind with a false
 
 58 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 tail, like a dragon-fly's wings half folded, coming below her 
 shoulders. A blue silk gown with loose sleeves fitted close round 
 her neck, embroidered with gold and colours at the cuffs and 
 collar, and with a rich braid down the front and round the skirt, 
 leaving about a foot of petticoat beneath, with wavy broad belts 
 of pink, red, and purple needlework. Her little feet were just to 
 be seen when she walked, her real heel was a couple of inches off 
 the ground. A small mandarin came in while we were there in full 
 dress, with his servants, and went through the ceremonies as if he 
 were shewing the deities a polite condescension. The temple is 
 Tavuist, and is dedicated to one Shang-yu, a learned man who 
 was deified and made the patron of learning. He is the principal 
 figure, and the lesser ones are his disciples, and sundry interpo- 
 lated gods of thunder, rain, spirits of the air, and water. One 
 thing is curious ; at the main entrance is a furious red demon 
 with angry countenance and outstretched arms ; he is the door- 
 keeper of the temple, and, as in real life, petitioners to a Tavu-tai 
 or Gee-fu give a handsome present to the door-keeper of the 
 Yamun before they can gain admittance, so here the worshippers 
 make their first offerings to appease the hideous vvretch." 
 
 " Nankin, October \\t}i, 1861. 
 
 " I see strange sights. Turning a corner on Saturday, I saw 
 two men straggling, and became aware that one man had the 
 pigtail of another strongly twisted round his left hand, while with 
 his right he was chopping off his head with a big knife. He 
 managed this in about a dozen blows, severed the remaining 
 flesh, and chucked the head away, leaving the trunk in the middle 
 of the street. A bystander went up to the head, lifted it by its 
 tail, and looked it in the face, to see if he knew it, but apparently 
 did not, dropped it, and went his way — and there it laid. People 
 standing thirty yards further on did not appear to remark any- 
 thing, and a small boy smilingly volunteered the information that 
 the beheaded one, who was very well dressed, was a thief, and 
 had stolen ' quite a number of dollars.'
 
 Chap. III.] RETURN HOME. 59 
 
 "An American, who was once a missionary, lives in the midst 
 of all this rascality. He told me the Teenwang had given him a 
 robe, a crown, a title, and a sum of money. He lives in the 
 palace of the Kanwang, the prime minister, and is no doubt 
 useful to him in settling differences with foreigners. The little, 
 lively, agreeable Dutch Baptist missionary, who came up with me, 
 assures me that the American constantly preaches and teaches as 
 he himself does, varying his employment by doctoring those who 
 come to him with horrible skin diseases. The chiefs here teach 
 the people on large sheets of yellow paper by proclamations, in 
 which they go, like the old Spanish plays, from Genesis to Revela- 
 tion, saying a little on all subjects, but especially against idolatry, 
 and insisting that the sacred king, the Teen-wang, receives his 
 orders from heaven direct and cannot lie." 
 
 Commander Goodenough was relieved from the com- 
 mand of the Renard in November, 1861 ; and immedi- 
 ately started homeward by the mail. At Point de Galle 
 he had the great pleasure of falling in with his brother, in 
 the Royal Artillery, who was returning from service in 
 India, having met with a severe accident ; and at Cairo 
 the two met with their elder and only remaining brother on 
 his way to India, and the three spent a few days happily 
 together in Egypt. On arriving in Egypt, it was found that 
 a fortnight must elapse before the elder brother could arrive, 
 and Goodenough's restless activity made him plan an expe- 
 dition to the Suez Canal, the works of which were then in 
 their earliest stage. The two brothers descended the fresh- 
 water canal from Zagazig to El Ghisr in a flat-bottomed 
 boat, and following the line of the canal on camels, crossed 
 the shallow lake Menzaleh in a small row-boat, and so 
 made their way via Port Said to Damietta.
 
 6o COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Goodenough returned to England in February, 1862, and 
 remained unemployed till July, thoroughly enjoying his 
 holiday in the society of his relations — spending most of 
 his time in the New Forest, and, as long as it lasted, 
 deriving much pleasure and restoring his health, which had 
 been tried with work in a hot climate, in hunting — the only 
 sport of which he was excessively fond. 
 
 In July, his old captain of the " CoUingwood," Admiral 
 Smart, then in command of the Channel Squadron, asked 
 him to come as commander of his flag-ship, the " Revenge." 
 In that ship he went, in August and September, to Kiel, 
 Stockholm, Riga, Copenhagen, and Christiania — a cruise in 
 which he took great pleasure, the officers being every- 
 where most kindly received, and finding much that was 
 interesting to see. In the winter the squadron went to 
 Madeira, Lisbon, and Gibraltar ; returning in March to 
 escort the Princess of Wales from Antwerp to England. 
 In May, the Revenge took Admiral Smart to Malta, to 
 assume the command of the Mediterranean squadron ; and 
 on arriving there Goodenough found his promotion to 
 post captain. He immediately returned to England, stop- 
 ping only a few days at Toulon to visit the dockyard. 
 The summer of 1863 was spent partly in Normandy, 
 partly in England — first at the meeting of the British 
 Association at Newcastle, and later in the New Forest.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SPECIAL MISSION TO NORTH AMERICA — MARRIAGE — H.M.S. VICTORIA — 
 MEDITERRANEAN— H. M.S. MINOTAUR — CHANNEL FLEET — TEMPERANCE. 
 
 He had, of course, been much interested in the struggle 
 then going on in North America ; and, looking at it from 
 a professional as well as a political point of view, had been 
 impressed with the desirability of an officer being sent to 
 that country to report. It was, therefore, with much grati- 
 fication that he found his representations had been so well 
 received at the Admiralty, as that he himself was nominated 
 to proceed on a special mission to North America ; and, 
 placing himself under the instructions of the British 
 minister at Washington, to obtain what information he 
 could with regard to the ships and guns there in use. This 
 call to service, interesting as it was, came at a moment 
 when he was loath to leave England again ; but he threw 
 himself at once into the spirit of his mission, and notwith- 
 standing another strong and engrossing interest, was able 
 to concentrate his attention on completing his own know- 
 ledge of the most recent professional improvements in the 
 establishments at home, before proceeding to examine 
 those of the foreign country he was to visit. 
 . Within the fortnight he left Liverpool for Boston. From 
 Boston he proceeded to Washington, where he obtained
 
 62 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. Chap. IV. 
 
 permission to see the navy yards of the United States. 
 All of these he visited in succession, going also to Pittsburg 
 to see a big gun cast ; and early in April, in company with 
 two officers of the English army, who were in America on 
 a somewhat similar mission to his own, he visited the camp 
 of the Federal army before Charleston. He returned to 
 England on the ist of May, 1864. His letters from 
 America treat principally on American manners and 
 politics, and on the contest then being waged in the 
 United States, and, therefore, are not of general interest 
 at present. A few extracts, however, will show something 
 of the under-current of his mind at this time, and of the 
 way in which he viewed the deeper aspect of all that he 
 saw and heard : — 
 
 " Liverpool, December wth, 1863. 
 
 *' I went on board the ' Akbar,' a floating reformatory, where 
 the first person I met was an old shipmate, who insisted on 
 showing me all his arrangements for teaching and employing the 
 boys. It was really very interesting, and the good of it was shown 
 by one word of the master to my friend, an old boatswain in the 
 navy, who is his right-hand man. ' They come to us convicted 
 rascals, but we don't find them so very bad, do we, Mr. L. ? ' 
 Being out of harm's way they learn good habits, and stick to them. 
 Good begets good, as evil begets evil." 
 
 ^'' December 10th, 1863. 
 
 " It is a happy thing to begin a day with such vivid poetry, so 
 rich and full of meaning, as that 5th Chapter of Isaiah, especially 
 in the dreamy life of a passage, when one's thoughts are not 
 violently disturbed. How immensely humbling and still how 
 soothing they are. How one always feels the beauty of them 
 afresh, and in a new way from the last .... I have thought of
 
 Chap. IV.] AMERICA. (^-^^ 
 
 death sometimes with a weary expectant wonder, and now it is 
 all so different. It seems more like the happy crown of life. I 
 was reading yesterday of Johnson's intense dread of death, — as 
 death, the end — and of his saying that every one feared death 
 whose thoughts were not occupied by some stronger feeling which, 
 displaced, did not conquer that one. I think that saying quite 
 true, and that the fear of death can only be blotted out by looking 
 beyond and upwards to the Hands which help us over. You don't 
 mind my talking of death ; for you would have me brave, and the 
 only real bravery is that which can look quite calmly and in cold 
 blood upon it. I should like to have the feeling which Captain 
 Bate had, a man like Sir Edward Parry, whose memoir you must 
 read if only for his coxswain's description of the morning of his 
 death." 
 
 ^^ December 2yd, 1^62,. 
 
 " How beautiful those words are, ' Beloved, if our heart con- 
 demn us, God is greater than our heart, and knoweth all things,' 
 and it is understood ' knows all things to forgive, and to love us 
 still.' How true it is that love is strongest of all" 
 
 " Boston, Dccemlm- 11th , 1S63. 
 
 " I find already much of what I have read of, of Yankee freedom. 
 Fortunately it amuses without irritating me, because I am pre- 
 pared for it, and though I dislike the manners, I like the inde- 
 pendence of spirit, which makes a man free spoken." 
 
 " February 1st, 1864. 
 
 " What a long affair the Crawley court-martial has been, and 
 what a lesson the public ought to learn from it. That lesson this 
 evening (i Cor. xiii.) is full of thinking matter as any, and beau- 
 tiful indeed. How beautiful the embodiment of charity is. One 
 of the highest tests is, I think, ' thinketh no evil ; ' and one of the 
 highest attributes ' rejoiceth in the truth, believeth and hopeth all 
 things.' "
 
 64 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 " Newport (Naval Academy), Fchniary -lyd. 
 
 " This college is more advanced than our Britannia .... If 
 application and study are of any use, I'm afraid that these people 
 will have very superior men to ourselves in their navy. They 
 are working harder and more intelligently for it than we are . . . 
 but the boys don't seem to get exercise enough. I can't make 
 out that they have any games, or outdoor amusement either." 
 
 " February z\th. 
 
 " I have been to see the classes of midshipmen in their recita- 
 tion rooms. One class was at mechanics, and another was at 
 moral philosophy, of which I have never read a word, nor do I 
 •ever wish to. It seemed so odd to hear certain rules laid down 
 drily, as guides for our actions, without any reference to Chris- 
 tianity at all. A young fellow stood up, and was asked what 
 sjuide he would take to determine his course under certain cir- 
 cumstances. ' My conscience.' ' Are you quite clear on that 
 point, Mr. K. ? ' ' Quite sure, sir.' ' And should you be in doubt 
 whether it be right or not to do a certain thing, how would you 
 proceed?' 'I would leave it undone, sir.' ' Is that what Presi- 
 dent Edwards said, Mr. K. ? ' ' Yes, sir.' How incomplete — is it 
 not ? and how different from ' If any man lack wisdom let him 
 ask of God, who giveth to all men liberally and upbraideth not.' 
 I could not help saying so to my friend the commandant, who 
 accompanied me." 
 
 " At Sea, April 2^th. 
 
 " An old clergyman preached a very good sermon on the 
 Lord's Prayer, and concluded very well by saying that our life 
 was like our voyage in all respects but one. At the end of the 
 voyage we should part perhaps never to meet again. At the end 
 of life there would be a great mustering, and we should be di- 
 vided, and only lovers and followers of Christ would go together 
 into happiness. 
 
 &
 
 Chap. IV.] HJI.S. VICTORIA. ,65 
 
 " Some one spoke the other day of love and duty, and which 
 was the higher motive. I think that love is the stronger, higher 
 motive, and that perfect love replaces duty, as it casts out fear ; 
 and if my love was always fervent enough, I should never feel it 
 necessary to obey a call of duty." 
 
 On the 31st of May, 1864, Captain Goodenough married 
 Victoria, daughter of William John Hamilton, Esq., to 
 whom he had become engaged shortly before leaving 
 England for America. The spirit with which he entered 
 on this new period of his life may be seen in the following 
 lines : — 
 
 " If God will, in His great love and tender all-providing care, 
 continue His guidance, if we can always only take hold of His 
 promises and love, we shall indeed live happily, because even 
 trials will appear in their proper light." 
 
 While travelling in Switzerland, in August of the same 
 year, he received a letter from his old chief. Admiral 
 Smart, who was then Commander-in-Chief of the Medi- 
 terranean Squadron, offering him the post of flag-captain, 
 with the command of his new flag-ship, the " Victoria," 
 three-decker, which was shortly to be commissioned. This 
 appointment was everything that he could desire. Two 
 days after receiving Admiral Smart's ofter he returned 
 to England. The Victoria was not quite ready for com- 
 mission ; but, in September, Captain Goodenough was 
 appointed to superintend her fitting out ; and on the 2nd 
 of November he commissioned her — the last sea-going 
 three-decker. 
 
 In a fortnight he was at Spithead, and sailed for Malta 
 on November 23rd. The Victoria was scarcely out of the 
 
 F
 
 66 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV, 
 
 Channel when she fell in with a violent gale, which — though 
 specially unpleasant in a ship where all was yet scarcely in 
 working order — Captain Goodenough hailed as a really for- 
 tunate occurrence, as helping everyone to find their place^ 
 and to settle down to their own work. He arrived at Malta 
 in the middle of December, and was soon fully engrossed 
 by the close work of flag-captain to a large squadron. The 
 next six months were spent at Malta, with only cruises 
 of a day or two every month for exercise. During this 
 time Goodenough was interested, among other matters, in 
 the starting of the " Soldiers' and Sailors' Institute," a sort 
 of club and recreation rooms, where the men might spend 
 their time of leave on shore pleasantly and quietly, and 
 away from the temptations which they met with in their 
 ordinary resorts. He was always an advocate for giving^ 
 his men as much leave as possible, and at the same time 
 anxious to induce them to use that leave sensibly and 
 soberly. The success which has attended this Institute,, 
 which was opened at the end of 1864, has shown how useful 
 an undertaking it was, and how much appreciated by those- 
 for whose benefit it was organised. 
 
 On the 1st of July the Mediterranean Squadron left 
 Malta for the summer cruise. The first place to which the 
 ships went was Barcelona, where Goodenough found his 
 knowledge of Spanish most useful. The Spaniards were 
 delighted at the sight of the big ships, and availed them- 
 selves freely of the permission to come on board, crowds 
 of them, mostly working and country people, coming every 
 day, and on the Sunday not less than 4000 visitors were 
 on board.
 
 Chap. IV.] ROSAS BAY. 67 
 
 From Barcelona the squadron proceeded to the Ray of 
 Rosas, also in Catalonia, celebrated by Lord Dundonald's 
 action. Of this place and its neighbourhood he thus 
 speaks : — 
 
 •' Bay of Rosas, Jnly zTtk, 1865. 
 
 *' This is only a village, and as yet I have only been to look at 
 the watering place, and to a funeral of a poor lad who died of 
 inflammation of the brain. I was afraid that it might be difficult 
 to get leave to bury him on shore, but I suggested to the governor 
 of the ruined fort that fifty years ago, when Spanish and English 
 fought side by side, no doubt many an Englishman was buried 
 there where he fell, and I claimed an honourable place for my 
 man. He consented at once, and the poor fellow was buried in 
 the rampart near a ruined chapel in the fort. The little place, 
 which has only 2400 inhabitants, or about a third of our ships' 
 companies, is quite overwhelmed A\'ith us, and the Gobernador de 
 la plaza declared to-day that eggs were selling by the pound — 
 shilling a pound. There are olives and grapes on the slopes, and 
 corn and gardens on the level plain." 
 
 *' August \th. 
 
 " I have been on shore to get leave for a head-board to be put 
 up to the poor young man whom I got leave to bury in the fort. 
 The governor was not to be found at first, so I went to the fort 
 to look for him, and near it found him on his way to drink his 
 daily glass of water with Doiia Anna his wife. He gave per- 
 mission at once, and we went together into the fort, and to his 
 little three-cornered garden with a spring of fresh water, which he 
 told me was so good that one might drink five or six glasses with- 
 out fear. During the afternoon I talked to a friend of the 
 Alcalde's, who came on board, an intelligent man, well up in the 
 history of the country, and he told me of another Ampurias be- 
 sides the one that I went to yesterday, and the real Phanician 
 colony, and declared that there is a museum of antiquities worth 
 
 F 2
 
 68 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 seeing, in which are pieces of money, earrings, amphorae, mosaic 
 pavement, &c. We went yesterday along about five miles of very 
 good road to Castdlon de Aiiipurias, a very old town indeed, with a 
 church which was once a cathedral, almost in ruins, but in some 
 parts so handsome. It had been knocked about by the French 
 in 1800, who had stabled their cavalry in it, but there was a porch 
 and an altar of the same date, of marble, which were excessively 
 rich in ornament, and handsome, and like in style to a tomb of 
 a Duke of Medina Celi who was also a Count of Ampurias, with 
 a long line of descendants, who probably erected the whole to his 
 memory. The country is all corn and wine about there, and 
 looking rich, and the hills have that wonderful rich colour which 
 they have nowhere else in Europe." 
 
 From Rosas Bay the squadron proceeded to Italy, 
 spending a short time at Genoa, Spezzia, Leghorn, Castella- 
 mare, and Naples. The constant duties of a flag-captain 
 left Captain Goodenough but little time to go on shore at 
 these various places ; but a day at Pisa, an afternoon at 
 Pompeii, one or two hurried visits to the Museo Borbonico 
 at Naples, gave him intense enjoyment. Although he had 
 had few opportunities of seeing much either of modern or 
 ancient art, yet whenever occasions presented themselves 
 for doing so, his intuitive feeling for what was true and 
 beautiful enabled him at once to appreciate and enjoy 
 Avhat he saw, even though he had not the special know- 
 ledge on the subject which he would have desired. The 
 following letter gives an idea of his feeling for art, while 
 the natural beauties of the Straits of Messina equally 
 delighted him : — 
 
 "Naples, October 21st, 1865. 
 ^' Wiat a pleasant day I have had, and how much I have seen,
 
 Chap. IV.] NAPLES. 69 
 
 though my two hours and a half at the AIusco Borbonico were 
 spent downstairs only, except one run at the end up to the pre- 
 cious objects' room, and the Cave Canem. We first went to the 
 Mosaic room, and I was astonished at the beauty of the small 
 ones, particularly the women and boy playing a tambourine, in 
 rather pale colours, and the rich coloured Hercules or pugilist, 
 who is on a dark-blue ground and has a cock under his feet, but 
 the first as art in design, the second as skill in work and placing 
 the colours ; but oh, how lovely delicate and graceful are those 
 monochromatic frescoes on marble ; there are only four. Those 
 girls playing knuckle-bones are lovely. I felt sure that a purer 
 taste than Roman had drawn those figures. They are so different 
 from the other gross pictures, but there was one figure of a Dan- 
 zatrice which I thought especially beautiful. Then we went to the 
 statues, and saw first the Balbi, which struck me by their great 
 expression ; then the coloured marbles, where the Diana of 
 Ephesus astonished me greatly — I thought some Egyptian God, a 
 regular Fetish. Then the lovely Greek vase, so like in shape, 
 though larger than that lovely one at Pisa ; and so suddenly we 
 were by the side of the Psyche. What a contrast again to all that 
 impure art. When the objects were impure, of course the art de- 
 clined, but when art was raised and ennobled by giving a human 
 resemblance to an ethereal essence, what a lovely result was pro- 
 duced; it is all ideally beautiful. Then I admired Aristides, 
 Eumachia, one and only one of all the Venus', but we so looked at 
 what we saw, that we forgot to ask for what we didn't see, and so 
 forgot the Toro Farnese, and lost it. Then to the bronzes. First 
 and before all, before the Dancing Fawn, is the Venus Anadyo- 
 mene, then the Narcissus, which is in the Fresco room, and Alex- 
 ander, which I cared for more afterwards than at first, and the 
 bust. of old Seneca; but there were many which I ought to but 
 could not find it in me to care for. By this time it was 2.30, so 
 we just ran upstairs into the Cave Canem room, in time to see a 
 custode shut the window and prevent our looking at the Onyx 
 Medusa. But what a pity to put the Cave Canem there. Its
 
 70 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 age (contemporaneous age) and respectability should have gained 
 it a better billet than to be trodden under foot by a crowd. 
 Then we took refuge in the shop downstairs, and all the copies 
 were so hateful to me that I really couldn't buy anything, but I 
 will be more sensible another day and buy a Psyche. We drove 
 afterAvards to San Gennara and San Domenico, but I couldn't be 
 interested except in some details of sculpture robbed from Poz- 
 zuoli, and so on board. I had seen quantities of our men on 
 shore, and all very well dressed and quiet, many in the Museum, 
 but more driving in two-horse carriages, while we were in a cab." 
 
 " October 2\th. 
 
 " . . . . I went to the Museum, saw the Papyri, which 
 speak for themselves ; then to the Cameos, Intaglios, &c., and 
 chiefly admired the Intaglios, to which you should give a whole 
 day ; then rapidly through the old bronzes, and passing through 
 some rooms of pictures, where we lingered a minute to look at the 
 St. Agatha and Guercino's Sibyl and a Magdalen, till a vile 
 copyist put his daubs in front of us and pestered us ; passed by 
 the models of Amphitheatres and P^estum, and went carefully 
 through the pottery. In each room tlie ciistodc had been very 
 civil and obliging, but this man was i^articularly so, and went 
 through the whole collection, pointing out to us the best objects. 
 He said that things were found every day, those from P^stum 
 excelling in drawing and design, those from Nola in varnish. I 
 could only go by what he told me, but to my eye the small gem 
 of the collection was a little yellow vase, with a single female 
 figure on it, from Sicily. Among others I liked the drawing of the 
 one with a fight of Centaurs and Lapithse, and I liked much the 
 general effect of those white, yellow, and light and dark red figures 
 on a black ground ; the little yellow one was of indescribable 
 harmony of outline and proportion. After this we went swiftly 
 through the picture rooms again, giving only one look to lovely 
 Santa Agatha again, for the fiends of copyists were upon us, and so 
 across to the Capi d'o_pc?'a, where I stayed till it was time to go ;
 
 Chap. IV.] STRAITS OF MESSINA. 7 1 
 
 in going out I just rushed to see the Toro Farneze, which is vil- 
 lanously placed, and then to the shop to buy a terra cotta of 
 Psyche— and a Seneca. Judge how I hurried through all ; I was 
 swept out from each place at the end, but I enjoyed it all greatly 
 nevertheless." 
 
 " Satin-day, November A^li, 1865. 
 
 " We are through at last, and have left Messina a little way be- 
 hind us. I lit up at two o'clock this morning, and began steam- 
 ing, and at six we were through the Straits, with a boiling surging 
 current against us. The morning has been so lovely. First, 
 there was such a lovely dark purple shadow on the Italian side, 
 after passing Scylla, then lovely lights on clouds on Sicily, and then 
 the sun got up and lit with rich orange and crimson all the moun- 
 tain tops and slopes over Messina. Then the houses on the hill- 
 side glanced in the sun, while still the lower town and the ships in 
 harbour were in a haze. Little fires of blue wood smoke rose 
 near the white cottages standing on their terraced slopes ; the old 
 priest at the round grotto church tinkled his bell as we passed, 
 and then the eddy tide took us and we swept out quickly through 
 Charybdis, past all those forts and handsome rich houses, past the 
 light-house and into the open sea again. The fires were let out, 
 and here we are becalmed six or seven miles below Reggio. Etna 
 is capped with snow which comes down far on his sides, and a 
 good deal of vapour rises from his top." 
 
 The squadron returned to Malta in the beginning of 
 November, and there, after a short detention in quarantine, 
 Captain Goodenough had the happiness of seeing his eldest 
 child, a boy, who had been born while he was at Naples. 
 
 The second winter at Malta passed much like the first, 
 in a constant round of routine duties ; he seldom left his 
 ship before nightfall, being kept there, not always so much 
 by the press of work, as by the desire to be at his post
 
 72 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV.. 
 
 should anything unforeseen occur ; and one occasion may- 
 be mentioned where the value of this course was clearly 
 shown. He had come on shore early one afternoon to a 
 concert, and when it was over, resisting the temptation to 
 stop on shore where he lived, true to his principle, he 
 returned to see that all was well on board. He had not 
 been there half-an-hour when a fire broke out on board one 
 of the ships, and the harbour being very full, he instantly 
 made arrangements for the whole squadron putting to sea 
 at once. The fire was soon extinguished, and this measure 
 was not needed ; but the preparations which he had taken 
 were such as to elicit a letter of approval of the Lords of 
 the Admiralty. 
 
 In May, 1866, Sir Robert Smart's command of the 
 Mediterranean Squadron having expired, he was succeeded 
 by Lord Clarence Paget ; and Goodenough's command of 
 the Victoria naturally ceased at the same time. He re- 
 turned to England through France, again spending a few 
 days at Toulon, mainly with the object of seeing some 
 new French ironclads which were then lying at that 
 port. 
 
 The next few months were spent quietly in England. 
 \\\ September of the same year he received an offer from 
 the late Admiral F. Warden to serve with him as flag- 
 captain, when he assumed the command of the Channel 
 Squadron in the following spring ; and early in December 
 he was appointed to superintend the fitting out of H.M.S. 
 Minotaur, which was to be Admiral Warden's flag-ship. 
 The winter was passed in preparing this ship for sea, and 
 in the beginning of April she was commissioned. On the
 
 Chap. IV.] H.M.S. MINOTAUR. 73 
 
 22nd of May she went to Spithead, and on this occasion 
 Captain Goodenough granted permission to the ship's 
 company to invite their relations and friends to go out to 
 Spithead in the ship, an indulgence much appreciated by 
 the men, upwards of 500 visitors coming on board and 
 remaining for several hours. 
 
 The Minotaur left Portsmouth on the 7th of June for 
 Portland. Shortly after leaving Spithead she passed, in 
 St. Helen's Roads, the Victoria, then returning from the 
 Mediterranean. The two ships passed close, the band of 
 the Victoria playing "Auld Lang Syne," and Captain 
 Goodenough's former officers collected on the poop of 
 his old ship to see him ; the first salute fired from the 
 Minotaur being the one answering that with which 
 the Victoria had saluted Admiral Warden's flag. At 
 the same time a tug was close at hand towing the 
 " Nankin," an old sailing vessel, the different types 
 and eras of ship-building being thus, as it were, grouped 
 together. 
 
 The first service performed by the Minotaur was to 
 accompany the Sultan across the Channel, in July, 1867. 
 Captain Goodenough had been much out of health for 
 some time, the consequence of a cold caught while fitting 
 out his ship ; and this last cruise in the Channel so unfitted 
 him for duty, that he thought it right to offer to resign his 
 appointment. This resignation, however, the Lords of the 
 Admiralty refused to accept ; but very generously gave 
 him two months' sick leave. He came to London, and after 
 three weeks of complete rest and good advice, was suffi- 
 ciently restored to be able to rejoin his ship at Plymouth,
 
 74 COMMODORE COODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 just before she sailed for Ireland, in September. He thus 
 expresses himself when at Cork : — 
 
 " Cork, September zZth, 1867. 
 
 " I went to see some foot races, where were all the population 
 of Queenstown, and some of Cork. The vivacity and shouting, 
 and altogether different bearing of the Irish crowd amused me, 
 and the entire absence of the brutal surliness which marks the class 
 of people who are most interested in that sort of thing interested 
 me. I dislike more and more those people who abuse the Irish, 
 and complain that nothing can be done with them — and they have 
 such pleasant manners. I think it must be that they are not 
 borne down bodily and mentally by the wealth of their superiors 
 ever present before their eyes. Oh ! how I hate wealth. How I 
 hate rich houses and exclusive people, and every one who does 
 not open his heart to mean as well as rich people. How wonder- 
 ful the sympathy that some Irish natures have, and how one sees 
 what a source of comfort and peace their human sympathy is to 
 them. It is all the difference between a spring welling out fresh 
 clear water, and being ever renewed, and a stagnant pool receiv- 
 ing to itself all the refuse and evil drained from other minds." 
 
 After a short stay in Ireland, the squadron proceeded to 
 Lisbon, returning to England on the 20th of December, 
 the Minotaur coming to Portsmouth, and remaining 
 there until April, when the Channel Fleet went to Holy- 
 head, to accompany the Prince and Princess of Wales on 
 their visit to Dublin. 
 
 The summer of 1868 was spent in various cruises, with 
 occasional short stays at Portland or Spithead ; and in 
 August the squadron again went to Ireland and Scotland 
 — first to Londonderry, then to Belfast, and afterwards to 
 Greenock and to Milford, returning to Portsmouth in.
 
 Chap. IV.] GLASGOW. 75 
 
 October. In these various ports, as has always been the 
 case, both officers and men were most hospitably enter- 
 tained ; and much enjoyment was derived from the visits 
 both to the towns and to the neighbouring country, though 
 from its being a wet and stormy summer, there was a good 
 deal of bad weather, which also means plenty of work 
 at sea. 
 
 At Glasgow an entertainment was given in which 
 Captain Goodenough was particularly interested — a dinner 
 to the men of the fleet — and which he thus describes : — 
 
 " Greenock, September 19///, 1868. 
 
 " A dinner was given yesterday by the people of Greenock, to 
 the men of the fleet, which went off capitally. The men (500) 
 marched up, headed by our band, and were all seated by two 
 o'clock, very comfortably. Then there was a delay, and till half- 
 past three they sat talking and listening to the band. No end of 
 porter and beer and cigars were placed before every one, but 
 though the dinner was a long time in laying no one touched either 
 bottle or meat till a clergyman was called on to say grace, and 
 then they fell to with a good will. 
 
 " The speeches after dinner are not half so well reported in the 
 papers as they were spoken, and they were not helped a bit. I 
 merely told them the day before that there would be one or two 
 speeches required, and that they had better go round the next day 
 to arrange with the other ships who should speak ; it ended in 
 their choosing a gunner's mate, and the signalman from this ship. 
 I went away after the ' Death of Nelson,' the refrain of which 
 was splendidly taken up by the whole body of men in the hall." 
 
 In November the squadron again sailed for Lisbon, that 
 port continuing as their head-quarters between their cruises 
 until their return to England, at the end of April, 1869.
 
 76 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 In December, i86S, Admiral Warden having been ap- 
 pointed to Cork, was succeeded in the command of the 
 Channel Squadron by Sir Thomas Symonds, Captain 
 Goodenough remaining with the latter officer as flag- 
 captain. 
 
 The followino; letter was written about this time : — 
 
 *t> 
 
 •' H.M.S. Minotaur, May wth, 1869. 
 
 " I am astonished to find even after the success of the govern- 
 ment, which generally carries the multitude, how strongly con- 
 servative all service people are .... I am surprised to find 
 so little economy or real reform .... Certainly we pos- 
 sess, as a people, no political foresight; we are led into the wildest 
 schemes and follies by refusing to apply to politics the rules of 
 every day life. We go on persisting and believing that the French 
 will invade England, and so pitting our navy against theirs, and 
 trying to swell our little army to a force which can take a part on 
 the Continent, decrying or suffering others to decry the volunteers, 
 and every other movement which is akin to the spirit of the 
 country, and aping some one else's system. It seems to me that 
 education is the great question of the day, the question I should 
 study most if I thought I could get into Parliament. Educa- 
 tion will do something — not everything — to relieve pauperism and 
 to diminish crime, and something to stay the gradual process 
 which is to me undoubted— of the rich getting richer and the poor 
 poorer ; the distance increasing as it is, with increasing population 
 and strife for living, between grades; when the law, however 
 slightly, is made by and favours the richest and most satisfied 
 people. Education is the only way we have of enabling the lower 
 ranks of life — Avithout surpassing merit — to raise themselves to 
 their proper level with the rich ; to make themselves, body and 
 mind, of such worth as to make the highest wealth of small com- 
 parative value."
 
 Chap. IV.] WILLHELMSHAFEN. 77 
 
 In June, 1869, Captain Goodenough was sent in the 
 Minotaur to the opening of a new North German dockyard 
 at the mouth of the river Jahdc. This expedition was a 
 source of great interest, not only to himself, but also to a 
 small party of military and naval officers whom he received 
 permission to take as passengers. The Emperor William 
 was present himself, and after formally opening the dock- 
 yard, which received the name of Willhelmshafen, His 
 Majesty came on board the Minotaur, and remained a 
 short time inspecting her various departments. 
 
 The Minotaur returned immediately to England, and 
 after several short cruises in the Channel, the squadron left 
 Plymouth, in August, under the command of the Lords of 
 the Admiralty. With the exception of a stay at Cork and 
 at Milford, in October, 1869, the ships remained in the 
 South from August until the following May, 1870, visiting 
 by turns Gibraltar, Teneriffe, Madeira, and the Azores, 
 with agreeable interludes of a month or a fortnight at 
 Lisbon between the cruises. Captain Goodenough had this 
 winter the enjoyment of the society of his wife and children, 
 who came to Lisbon for some months. The following was 
 written in September, 1869 : — 
 
 *' I shall come away from Milford if I can get leave for my 
 men, but I won't go away on leave unless they do. I want to 
 engraft that principle on my officers — that excellent rule of the 
 sea, by which the naval service is more excellent than any other — 
 that in all great hardships and privileges officers and men share 
 alike. That is a principle under which all discipline may progress 
 evenly and harmoniously."
 
 78 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 It is satisfactory to be able to add that the leave was 
 granted to officers and men alike. 
 
 It was durincr this winter that his attention was first 
 strongly directed towards the temperance movement. There 
 has been a decided feeling in that direction for some time 
 in the squadron, and meetings of various descriptions had 
 been held both at Lisbon and at Gibraltar, where the men 
 of the squadron were entertained by a Highland regiment 
 at a great tea. In the spring of 1870, Captain Goodenough 
 was asked to take the chair at a large tea-meeting given to 
 the seamen by some English residents at Lisbon, who 
 were promoters of the temperance cause ; and speaking 
 on this occasion, he told his hearers how much he ap- 
 preciated their efforts and wished them success — that 
 though he considered total abstinence a less high 
 standard than temperance, yet, looking upon it as an 
 extraordinary remedy for an extraordinary evil, he felt 
 that in many cases it was a man's only safeguard, and 
 the only means of saving him from ruin ; adding, that he 
 thought it right to tell them that, though he approved 
 and applauded what they were doing, he did not do it him- 
 self. In June, on the return of the squadron to Ports- 
 mouth, he was asked to a similar meeting at the Sailors* 
 Home in Portsea, and spoke in similar terms ; but on his 
 return from this second meeting, he came to the conclusion 
 that he could not, consistently with his own ideas of right 
 and wrong, continue to advise people to do what he did 
 not do himself. Having already become much more 
 firmly impressed with the advantages of total abstinence 
 from intoxicating liquors — an opinion which gained strength
 
 Chap. IV.] TEMPERANCE. 79 
 
 with him every year that he lived — he from that day, 
 though he took no pledge, gave up the use of all wine, 
 beer, or spirits ; and, except in case of illness, continued 
 to do so all his life. 
 
 He had at first, as he once expressed it in a letter, taken 
 the step out of sympathy with those who were doing what 
 they could to raise his men, and to make their path easier ; 
 but as he continued he found it of increasing value, not 
 only furnishing him with an answer to those who said — 
 excusing themselves, or others, for any excess — that it was 
 impossible to do without stimulants in hot climates, or 
 after much hard work ; but he also found his own health 
 improve, and when again in the tropics he observed that 
 he suffered less from the climate than he had ever done^ 
 and that he was, as he said at a meeting at Sydney only a 
 few weeks before his death, " as much up to hard work, 
 as ready for any enjoyment, any exertion, or exposure 
 (even to passing a night under a tree), as I have ever been 
 in my life, and even more so." 
 
 In June, Admiral Sir Hastings Yelverton relieved Sir 
 Thomas Symonds in the command of the Channel 
 Squadron, and requested Captain Goodenough to remain 
 with him as flag-captain. The Channel Squadron joined 
 the Mediterranean Fleet, and cruised for a short time in 
 the Atlantic. The war just begun between France and 
 Germany is alluded to in the following letter from Vigo : — 
 
 '^ Ajigtist 2^t/i, 1870. 
 " You say that I say nothing about the war. What can I say ? 
 It fills me with grief and confusion to see the best passions — not 
 the worst, as writers say — supporting the continuance of war.
 
 8o COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 Whichever side wins, it is grievous and horrible. FeeUngs are 
 bknited, unfair deahng is suggested and beUeved in, and contact 
 with each other, which ought to dispel prejudices, is likely to 
 engender more hatred than at first. It is awful and horrible. If 
 there were a dynasty in France, it might end ; but now that the 
 prosecution of war is in the hands of the people, who can say how 
 far it may go ? The Times says it does not believe in Paris be- 
 sieged or resisting. I say that Paris and what we call the most 
 luxurious French society is infinitely more capable of a sacrifice 
 of what they acknowledge to be luxuries, than the virtuous English 
 society is of comforts which are the more costly of the two. Our 
 Pharisaical self-contentment is at the bottom of that argument 
 throughout. Ah ! it is better to have no possessions at all than 
 to run the risk of getting attached to them. How horrible to 
 belong to one's possessions rather than they should be our 
 property ! " 
 
 It was in this cruise that occurred the catastrophe of the 
 loss of H.M.S. " Captain," almost immediately after which 
 the squadron returned to England. 
 
 In the month of October, Admiral Wellesley assumed 
 the command of the Channel Squadron ; and Captain 
 Goodenough was relieved on October 25 th, 1870.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 WORK AMONG THE FRENCH I'EASANTS ABOUT SEDAN— COMMITTEE OF 
 DESIGNS OF SHIPS— DIEPPE— NAVAL EDUCATION — APPOINTED NAVAL 
 ATTACHl5. 
 
 Captain Goodenough did not, however, remain long 
 idle. The war had already brought many hardships to the 
 districts in which it had raged, and several English societies 
 were doing what they could for the relief of the inhabi- 
 tants, as well as of the wounded. Among them, the French 
 Peasant Relief Fund, under the direction of the Daily Neius, 
 which was working among the peasants about Sedan, had 
 just appealed for volunteers to assist in the distribution 
 of food Avhich was being made in that neighbourhood. 
 Captain Goodenough offered his services, which were 
 immediately accepted ; and on November 8th started, 
 with his wife, for Bouillon, a small Belgian town, close to 
 the frontier, and about ten miles from Sedan. Of the 
 assistance which he then gave, Mr. Bullock Hall, the ener- 
 getic director of the undertaking, has lately publicly written 
 in the following terms : — 
 
 " In the dreariest period of the gloomiest of Novembers, when 
 autumnal rains were giving place to snow, and sleet, and frozen 
 winter fogs, and we whose business it was to convey food and 
 clothing over the slippery and almost impassable roads to the
 
 82 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 destitute in the villages about Sedan, were almost in despair at 
 the task we had undertaken, and were in sore need of encourage- 
 ment, there came in answer to our appeal for volunteers, a man, 
 the very sight of whom at once communicated new life to us. Here 
 was a man, the very model of an Englishman, with unbounded 
 energy, and combining extreme gentleness with an iron sense of 
 duty ; born to command, and with a genius for communicating the 
 love of order and regularity, which characterised him ; a man 
 before whom one could only feel inclined to bow down ; here was 
 this man come to place himself meekly under orders, and to go 
 plodding day after day through snow and slush." 
 
 The following extracts from Captain Goodenough's own 
 letters give some account of the work done : — 
 
 " BuuiLLON, November 2\st. 
 
 " I was in Sedan two days ago. The town looked dismally dull. 
 A few knots of people stood chatting at different points near the 
 bridge, and in the market place, and were probably deriving com- 
 fort from the report that the siege of Me'zieres is raised. It is 
 certain that there was fighting on Thursday and Friday, and that 
 some Germans were driven over the frontier on that day ; but 
 fancy their being in ignorance of what had been done at a place 
 only twelve miles off, two days before. The only bright shops 
 were those of the patissicrs, which, as usual, looked cheerful 
 enough. In scarcely any of the others was there more than one 
 jet of gas burning. I went into a bookseller's, who was so pain- 
 fully affected, poor fellow, when some German soldiers came in, 
 he was like a man with delirium tremens. One is almost afraid 
 to sympathise with them, they have sons or brothers in the Mo- 
 biles at Mezieres, and every shot they hear fired during the day 
 is a shock and pain to them. The expression of their faces was 
 like a continued moan, and as though they were saying, ' How 
 long, O God, how long ! ' in plaintive agony. This was the note
 
 Chap. V.] FRENCH PEASANT RELIEF FUND. 83 
 
 Avhich struck me throughout, and which was continued and im- 
 pressed on me by the sermon we heard on Sunday at the Protes- 
 tant Church. It is the church of the Pasteur Goulden, who is 
 now in England, and the sermon was from the pasteur des 
 annexes, who has charge of the neighbouring towns and villages 
 where there is no resident clergyman. His sermon was on 
 I Tim. ii. i, 2, and he began by referring to his last sermon, in 
 which he enjoined the practice of charity among the many poor, 
 and desired his hearers not to be disheartened at being deceived 
 and imposed on by the people who sometimes came to them, 
 and to prepare themselves by prayer to meet such cases justly, 
 temperately, and wisely. Then he went on to bid the congrega- 
 tion pray for all men — for kings, remembering that while St. Paul 
 wrote, Nero was emperor ; for all people — for both peoples in the 
 great war; for the extension of brotherly spirit and kindness, 
 which would prevent the possibility of future wars, and breathe 
 a spirit of humanity into the conduct of this war ; for peace — ah ! 
 that we may have peace at last, as the fruit of our labours, peace 
 among all men, and wisdom in rulers to maintain it. And shall 
 we not pray for our dear country — that this war may do us good ? 
 Already we see it has done good ; we were living in too great 
 luxury. Our sons were growing up in enervating habits of idle- 
 ness and self-indulgence, were neglecting, and caring for none of 
 the manly virtues. Do we not already see a change ? Is there 
 not a greater love of country already apparent, and a growing 
 inclination to live for the good of the country, and not for our 
 enjoyment? And before peace is made, before we are quite 
 triumphed over, may we not pray for a little success for our 
 country. ' Oh, God ! a little success, only a little, so that we 
 may not be utterly humbled and despised in the eyes of surround- 
 ing nations.' It was this cry of nature which was so touching to 
 listen to. All his sermon had been so wise, and so temperate — 
 not clever, but excellent, and all eloquence restrained by practical 
 earnestness ; and this little cry from the heart was enough to bring 
 tears to one's eyes. I went to see him in his vestry after service, 
 
 G 2
 
 84 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 for I wanted to ask if his Protestants in the different villages had 
 received their share in the distributions of bread, and I find 
 that all has been fairly arranged. Directly after church I started 
 for Bazeilles, through Balan. Balan begins at the gates of the 
 town, and in every bend of the long street the bullet marks on the 
 walls and shutters show that the ground was yielded bit by bit. 
 A crowd of people with pannikins and jugs was collecting at the 
 door of a factory, and a long stream of young and old women 
 were coming from Bazeilles to get the soup, which Dr. Davis 
 pays for, and which Mdlles. Goulden, sisters of the pasteur, dis- 
 tribute. There is an interval of three quarters of a mile, and then 
 one sees Bazeilles. A single house stands at each end of the 
 village, I think they have been used as Field Lazareths. Every- 
 thing else is burnt. Here and there the walls seem sound 
 enough to allow of the place being fitted up again, but nineteen 
 out of twenty among the houses must be pulled down altogether 
 to be rebuilt. We soon fell in with some people, who were 
 saving some potatoes out of a cellar, which was letting in the rain 
 — a man and wife and two pretty little children, who came up to 
 us, and followed us about. The man had been a weaver, and 
 had a loom which was worth 200 francs, and on it a piece of 
 cloth within one day of being finished. He had gone off to 
 Belgium with his family on the day of the battle, and had re- 
 turned after a fortnight to find his house destroyed, and nothing 
 left but a little lean-to at the back of the house, which had escaped 
 the fire, and into which his pig had wandered from its stye. It 
 was very thin after a fortnight, still he turned it into eighty francs, 
 and so had enough to give him bread for some time. All this 
 was told with much cheerfulness and resignation both by husband 
 and wife. A little lower down we came upon an old man with 
 an axe, who had been chopping wood, and he at once began to 
 speak of, not his own, but his neighbour's misfortunes — the poor 
 widow with seven children, whose husband died three years ago, 
 and who had lost everything and was living in her cellar. Really, 
 until we questioned him, he never spoke of his own ruined
 
 Chap. V.] " SEDAN, &-c. 85 
 
 house, and his five looms burnt, and his little lean-to, which he 
 had established out of his ruins, for his children and grand- 
 children. The cheerfulness and forgetfulness of self was ' a lesson 
 to those who would be admonished.' From Bazeilles we crossed 
 a railway bridge over the Meuse, whose railways had been banged 
 by shot, and returned to Sedan by Wadelancourt, where Dr. Davis 
 is still giving soup. This morning I walked over here, round by 
 Floing, St. Menges, Fleigneaux, and Illy, thirteen or fourteen 
 miles through the forest. I found my first cure in all the difiicul- 
 ties of arranging his distribution, and surrounded by women ; and 
 he appealed to me for aid, and to explain the intentions of the 
 society ; for the poor souls had all come, without exception, to 
 ask for bread. I had to say that we expected those who had 
 money to furnish themselves, and that we could only help the 
 destitute, and at last released the cure' from them all. But he 
 had an excellent idea for helping the people. It seems that 
 the cloth dealers will buy small quantities of cloth, but will not 
 give money for it ; and the cure, M. L'Alouette, showed me a 
 ' bon ' for seventy-five francs (payable after the war). A woman 
 had brought it to him, to ask him to give her seventy francs 
 upon it, which he would not do, but lent her twenty francs upon 
 it, to be returned. ' Now,' he said, if you would buy these, the 
 Commune would guarantee you against loss in case of the failure 
 of the merchants, and my people would retain their independence 
 and dignity, which are injured by their coming to beg for 
 bread.' There is really an opening for the very highest effort 
 of discriminating philanthropy, for, of course, mere charity has 
 a bad effect. I found the cure of St. Menges was much of 
 the same mind. At Fleigneaux I saw the schoolmaster of a 
 very dirty school. He had everything taken for an ambulance : 
 six pairs of sheets, and six-dozen of pocket-handkerchiefs. ' You 
 see, I take snuff, and want a handkerchief every day,' he said, 
 by way of explanation. There were some Protestants here, so 
 I got a guide to take me to one family, and found a very nice- 
 looking, intelligent old woman, Madame Berthe by name, and
 
 86 COMMODORE COODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 her son and daughter-in-law. They were quite content with 
 their distribution of bread, and, more than that, had had a little 
 work from one of the ' anciens ' of the church at Sedan, and a 
 gift of a petticoat. At St. Menges I left ten francs with a poor 
 woman whose house had been burnt by a French shell, and who 
 had lost all her savings of sixteen years." 
 
 " November 22nd. 
 
 " From Sedan we walked to a village called Glaire : no 
 fighting took place there, but on the island formed by the bend 
 of the river and the canal, most of the French prisoners were 
 encamped, and the Bavarians were at Glaire for twelve days. 
 Here the farmers seem to have lost everything : one, the Maire 
 of Glaire, had driven 250 sheep to Iges for safety, and when 
 the camp came began to sell them; but after getting 750 francs, 
 the rest were suddenly seized, and carried off, and he lost 6,500 
 francs' worth, as well as three horses and eight cows. All the 
 poultry of course disappeared, and all the oats and hay ; con- 
 sequently there is no employment for the farm labourers. He 
 told us he had always kept four servants, but that now he had 
 discharged three, and the fourth would leave in a few days. We 
 called on the cure', and on two farmers, and on some workpeople, 
 some of whom were terribly poor. One old blind woman was 
 burning a soldier's boot on her hearth for want of fuel, for all the 
 wood in the place had been taken ; even the roof of a new 
 unfinished barn had been torn down to burn, while the doors and 
 shutters of houses and farm-buildings had been used as shelter in 
 the camp. Another poor woman was very ill indeed, and had 
 got so low from want of proper food that she was scarcely able to 
 take nourishment ; her husband was formerly employed at the 
 Jilatiij'e, was out of work, and they had four children. I asked 
 if she had seen a doctor, and found they could not afford the six 
 francs required to pay for one from Sedan. I advanced the six 
 francs, and sent two tins of preserved soup for her a couple of 
 days later. The cure promised to send me in a few days a list of
 
 Chap. V.] NEIGHBOURHOOD OF SEDAN. Zj 
 
 the persons most in need of clothes and bread. One oi'" the 
 farmers of Glaire kindly drove us over to Iges, where we visited 
 the Maire. He, too, had lost nearly everything. All his cows, 
 sheep, and pigs, as well as wood — everything had been taken by 
 the unfortunate French prisoners who were encamped in the 
 neighbourhood, and who for days were on the verge of starvation ; 
 they even ate the potatoes and beet-roots which they dug up, 
 the latter of which brought on much illness, Avhich has been in 
 some cases communicated to the villagers. At Iges, also, we 
 were assured that gifts of bread would be most acceptable to the 
 poor. 
 
 " On Thursday we started at about nine o'clock for Illy, Floing, 
 and St. ]\Ienges, where I hoped to make arrangements for baking 
 the bread on the spot, instead of having it sent to Belgium. Our 
 waggon, with the Union Jack fl\"ing, started at the same time laden 
 with 1 20 loaves, of five kilogrammes each, and six bags of coffee, 
 and a case of preserved meat. At Givonne I saw the cure, and 
 arranged to speak to the bakers on my way back. Soon after 
 leaving Givonne, a farmer from Glaire, ^\■ho was returning with 
 us, having the day before brought us two strong farm horses, 
 which he lends for the winter, suggested our leaving the carriage 
 and taking a path over the hill to Illy. Path there was none, 
 but we went across the fields, and through the mud and clay, 
 seeing evident traces of large bodies of men having passed 
 that way, in the trodden-down ground and broken hedges. We 
 passed to the right of La Garenne, seeing some graves and still 
 finding a few debris of the battle, we rejoined our carriage at Illy, 
 and drove to Floing, a large and formerly flourishing village, lying 
 in a hollow, bet^veen the heights occupied by the French and 
 German artiller}', and though the balls were flying over the 
 village all day not a house was struck. 
 
 " We went straight to the Presbytere, and found the cure' just 
 finishing his dejeuner. He was delighted when he heard that I had 
 come to arrange for a distribution of bread, as he said there was 
 very great distress in his village, which was all the more painful to
 
 88 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 witness from the fact of the sufferers being persons who were 
 accustomed to be in easy circumstances, with plenty of well-paid 
 work. He explained to me that the cause of the distress was 
 two-fold ; — the occupation of the German army during twelve 
 days, in which time they had taken everything they could lay 
 their hands upon ; and, secondly, from the comiDlete stoppage of 
 business in Sedan, on which the inhabitants entirely depend. 
 Sedan being a fortified town has not room for its many work- 
 people, and a very large proportion of the cloth-weaving is done 
 in the poor weavers' own houses. At this moment such is the 
 want of confidence in affairs among the manufacturers, that not 
 only will they not give work, but they are even sending away their 
 wool to be stored in [Belgium, fearing lest it should be taken, 
 should the town at any time be unable to pay the Pmssian re- 
 quisitions. The very few who still give a little occasional work 
 do not pay in money, but in bills payable seventy-five days after 
 the signing of peace, and the bakers will not take these bills in 
 exchange for bread. The cure told us that three-quarters of his 
 people were weavers. They are not in general thrifty till they 
 have been able to buy a house ; but once a steady workman has 
 his own little house, he may be considered safe and provided for 
 for life ; he no longer frequents the cabaret, but every penny goes 
 towards the comfort of his house. But now most of these house- 
 holders have lost what little furniture and linen they had 
 managed to get together ; the furniture was either wantonly 
 broken, or used for fire-wood, and the linen and blankets were 
 all taken by the soldiers, or for the wounded. In many cases the 
 only covering a family has left is the coarse sack which, formerly 
 stuffed with straw, served as a mattress. In one case a poor man 
 ■with fever was found covered only by a sack of shavings. The 
 cure's sister told us, that only that morning a person formerly 
 quite well off had come to ask if she could not give her a little 
 help, and she saw that she was wearing one of her husband's 
 shirts, having no clothes of her own left. In another case a 
 mother and daughter who had sixty pairs of stockings of their own
 
 Chap. V.] FRENCH VILLAGES. 89 
 
 knitting had lost them all. While we were talking, our waggon 
 arrived and stoi)ped at tlie cure's to deposit some coffee and 
 preserved meat. The waggon was on its way to St. Menges, and 
 poor people of Floing seeing the bread, were sadly disappointed 
 when they found it was going on further. I, however, went at 
 once to call on the Maire, Avho received me most kindly, and 
 spoke in the warmest terms of the sympathy of the English. 
 Meantime the cure' had sent for the bakers, of whom there were 
 five — one was represented by a pretty little daughter of eighteen, 
 almost the only young girl who had not fled during the battle. 
 The Maire and cure kindly explained the temis which I proposed 
 to offer to the bakers, and after a little demur on their part, and an 
 injunction from the cure, not to be behind-hand in helping their 
 neighbours, when foreigners, on whom they had no claim, had 
 come forward to help them, they consented to bake the 150 
 kilos of bread a day for thirty-five centimes a kilo. Part of this 
 was to be for Claire and Iges, small villages just across the 
 Meuse, which have no baker of their own. Each baker was to 
 take a baking in turn, which we thought would ensure the quality 
 of the bread being kept up to the mark, and would also make a 
 fair distribution of the gains throughout the fraternity. The cure's 
 sister was most glad to take charge of the preserved soup for some 
 fever patients. Having made our arrangements, and got the 
 contract for the bread signed by the bakers, we started for St. 
 Menges, Monsieur le Cure accompanying us part of the way, and 
 explaining to us most clearly the position of the armies, and the 
 direction of the Crown Prince's forced march, as well as the site 
 of the disastrous cavalry charges. In the village we met a French 
 lady, who had come in search of the body of her husband who 
 had fallen in one of the charges at the head of his regiment. 
 She knew what kind of wound he had received, and in the village 
 it was remembered that an officer of high rank, wounded in that 
 manner, had been buried on the heights above Floing. Accom- 
 panied by the Maire, she had the grave containing forty bodies 
 opened. The body was found and easily recognised by the
 
 90 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 peculiar wound, and by the white moustache. The poor marquise 
 wanted to embrace the body, but was held back by the kind- 
 hearted Maire, and it was immediately buried in the churchyard 
 in a place which she had chosen. 
 
 " At St. Menges we found the cure just returning from visiting one 
 of his sick. He had much to tell of the sufferings of his flock, from 
 the pillage of the Germans who occupied the village for ten days. 
 Only two houses were burnt, and these by the bursting of French 
 shells, which, he added, made it seem all the sadder. In his little 
 ante-room we found the three sacks of coffee and all the loaves our 
 cart had just deposited, and on the table two large knives ready for 
 cutting them up for distribution at eight o'clock the next morning. 
 He told us that the way he had made his list of those who were to 
 receive bread, when he first heard from Mr. Bullock of his offer 
 of sending it, was to go round to the different bakers and beg 
 them to show him their list of their customers. He then asked, 
 ' Are you still supplying all these people with bread ? ' 'Oh no, 
 to many of them we are obliged to refuse credit ; we know they 
 cannot pay us." He therefore then got a list of those families 
 who actually could not buy bread, and to them he distributed 
 that sent by Mr. Bullock. Here also I saw the bakers, and made 
 the same contract with them as at Floing. At another village 
 one of the bakers had lost his son as well as all that he possessed 
 on the day of the battle, and ever since had been so completely 
 disheartened that he had not held up his head nor done, a day's 
 work since. The contract was given to him, and it was a comfort 
 to know that, within a few days, with his work his spirits had 
 returned, and that he was quite an altered man. The cure of 
 St. Menges told us of a number of his people who had lost all 
 their clothes, and especially their blankets and sheets. In this 
 village the people are nearly all weavers, so that, till some work 
 begins again, they have no means of retrieving their losses. 
 
 "Scarcely a house seems to have been spared. One poor 
 German woman living at Glaire forms a solitary exception, and 
 now owns the only pig in the village, and if the inhabitants had
 
 Chap. V.] FRENCH PEASANTS. 9 1 
 
 the misfortune to leave their houses, then the havoc was complete. 
 The curt'' of Uaigny told us that he was only absent twenty-four 
 hours, but returned to find his house bare — not only his plate, his 
 linen, his little battcrie de cuisine had been taken, but his very 
 clothes, even his large three-corned hat. '■ Je ne sais pas a quoileur 
 potivait scn'ir tin chapcau de pretre, viais ils Pont pourtant pris^ 
 and the panels of his large wardrobe had been forced out with a 
 chopper, to make boards for the soldiers to cut up their meat 
 upon. And with all these there is a wonderfully resigned and 
 hopeful spirit abroad ; so many have said to me, ' Ah, if only it 
 was all over, and we did not see them any more, and could begin 
 to work again, we should forget the past and make a fresh start ; 
 but as long as they are here there is no hope of work, and 
 how are we to get through the winter ? ' In some cases the poor 
 have made a little money by selling a io.^^ arms, &c., from the 
 battle-field, but that is pretty well all spent, and the prospect of 
 the winter is very dismal." 
 
 "Sedan, November zyd. 
 
 " This morning, after waiting to despatch some things to Fran- 
 cheval, and ordering another despatch of things to St. Menges 
 to-morrow, I came on through Francheval, Rubecourt, and La 
 Moncelle to Sedan. At La Moncelle the walls are covered with 
 shot marks, and a part of the houses are burnt. A list which ]M. 
 de Montagnac has had made gives fifty-nine fomilies burnt out, 
 besides the Maison Communale. As I stood talking to some 
 men at the foot of the street, I counted forty-two bullet-marks on 
 the face of one house. I\L de Montagnac's factory is half-way 
 between this and Rube'court, and when I asked them about 
 bojis and cloth, they said that he had kept his mill working 
 twelve hours a week, and had always paid ready money for work 
 or goods." 
 
 " November 24th. 
 " I started at eight o'clock this morning for St. IMenges, and 
 found the cure in the midst of his distribution of bread, so waited
 
 92 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 while he finished it. He is unfortunate in having no organization 
 in his parish ; the last cure had quarrelled with the Maire] and 
 the Adjoint, and the Conseillers Municipaux, who are all weavers, 
 and of the 2000 inhabitants not one is a rentier^ or in a position 
 to give tone to the Bureau de Bienfaisance, or to be able to devote 
 time to its affairs. There is, consequently, no organization for 
 relief, no subscriptions for a doctor to attend the sick, and the 
 cure is unsupported. He thinks, that by-and-bye, even his school- 
 master and the three sKurs will have to ask for bread. They 
 have but ;z{^2o a-year a piece, and even this is not likely to be 
 paid in January. 
 
 " As the bread was being issued, I obtained sad details of dis- 
 tress in some of the families — many were ill, and their illness was 
 aggravated by the want of good food. The father of a family of 
 six children, only one of whom could work, was away at Me'zieres 
 as a Garde Forcsticr. Two poor women who came for their share 
 had been of the class oi paiivres honteiises, whose cases require 
 careful investigation, but now came openly to ask for relief. They 
 had kept the only cafe of the place, and supported an old mother 
 of ninety-two, but since the first of September all custom had 
 ceased ; the Germans had smashed their windows, and taken 
 their beds, and they were, as we should say, ' on the parish ; ' 
 that is to say, they would be on the parish if the parish had 
 anything to give them. 
 
 " The funds of the Bureau de Bienfaisance are usually 500 to 
 600 francs, and are derived chiefly from some land, and partly from 
 occasional market rents and levies on fetes at the Maison 
 Communale. This has not been a year for fetes, and, therefore, 
 the receipts have been small and the expenses large ; and the 
 Daily News Society will therefore put 200 francs into the Caisse, 
 in case the doctor is required, and more in case of need of 
 medicine, 
 
 " The society is now sufficiently in relations withjSt. Menges to 
 see to its wants during the winter. It receives now 15 00 lbs. of 
 bread a week, and 200 lbs. of bacon, and the committee of the
 
 Chap. V.] FRENCH WEAVERS. 93 
 
 Bureau de Bienfaisance have a store of preserved meat, and 
 ' soup and bouilli,' of coffee and potatoes, to meet special cases. 
 At the mention of coffee the cure said, — ' Ah, monsieur, voiis 
 parlez des elegances de la vie. Bread is the chief thing— if only 
 we had bread. There are many who eat nothing else.' After 
 the distribution I visited some of the cloth weavers. With each 
 family the story was the same. Their beds had been taken for 
 the wounded, and soiled with blood, or lost ; their clothes had 
 disappeared during the fifteen days' occupation by the German 
 troops; and the pig, which is kept by most of the weavers' families, 
 had been eaten. In each house a little work was going on, but 
 as it is paid for either in cloth or in written promises ' to pay 
 after the war,' there is a considerable loss to the workman in every 
 case. Before the war a good weaver made sixteen enseigncs or 
 eighty-four metres of cloth in twenty-one to twenty-five summer 
 days, and was paid fifty francs for his work, the material being 
 supplied direct from the 'filatures,' which employ loo persons in 
 addition to the 900 weavers, so that the families which I visited, 
 which had two or three looms a piece, could gain from thirty 
 to fifty francs a week. But they now suffer loss from three causes. 
 Firstly, they are paid by cloth which is taken into Belgium at a 
 loss of ten per cent, duty and at the cost of a long journey on foot ; 
 and, secondly, they lose much time both on these journeys and in 
 going to Sedan to fetch the threads which used to be brought to 
 their own doors ; but the worst feature of their case is the pro- 
 found depression into which the invasion of their soil, the loss of 
 their children, and the dread of some greater unknown trouble 
 yet to come, has plunged them. The people of this district are 
 of a gentle and cheerful disposition. The life of a working man 
 was, perhaps, in no part of France more promising ; and the 
 existence of a sympathy for their suffering among English people, 
 which is shown in gifts and visits, will be understood by those 
 who know the French character, to have a more than visible 
 influence on their health and spirits under the heavy trials of the 
 winter. The common distress has extinguished much selfish
 
 94 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 repining. I have not yet met with a case in which the speaker 
 referred, unasked, to his own pecidiar hardship. A poor woman, 
 whose husband was just able to sit up after about fourteen days' 
 fever, showed me the movements of her loom, and after a itw 
 strokes, said simply, 'yk' /I'ai J>liis la force d^aiih-efois ;' and after 
 trying to quicken the movement left off quite flushed by the 
 exertion. She had been used to work all day, but was weakened 
 by attendance on her husband, and indifferent food. They will 
 both have portion of soup and bouilli in future. She had taken 
 a piece of cloth, valued at twenty-seven francs, into Belgium a few 
 days ago, wrapping it round under her dress to escape the duty, 
 but had only succeeded in getting fifteen francs for it. Her whole 
 house was in wretched disorder and uncleanliness, and had never 
 recovered the invasion of the troops. In another house where 
 two looms were at work, a man had been more fortunate. He 
 had taken his fifty francs' piece of cloth into Belgium, and brought 
 back forty-five francs ; but at the cost of two days' travel, which, 
 in good time, would represent two and a half francs more. But 
 the workers at the ' filature ' are in the worst condition, as they 
 can do nothing, or next to nothing." 
 
 " N'ovcmbc}- 25///. 
 
 " To-day I have been to Floing. Thanks to the last as well as 
 to the present cure', M. L'Alouette, and to the Maire, M. Amede'e 
 de la Brosse, who is greatly respected both here and in Sedan, a 
 capital organization exists in the village. 
 
 " M. Alouette himself has a genius for organization, and the 
 sick subscription, which is but five francs a head a year, not only 
 pays the doctor, but also twenty-five per cent, of the medicines. 
 The whole village has a brighter appearance than St. Menges, 
 to which its nearness to Sedan, no doubt, contributes. The 
 population, and the proportion of weavers, are but equal to St. 
 Menges ; but at Floing there is a growing disposition among the 
 weavers to lay out their money in acquiring a separate cottage and 
 garden, and this practice, which has not only an excellent moral
 
 Chap. V.] COMMITTEE ON DESIGNS. 95 
 
 side, adds to the cheerful aspect of the place, as well as to the 
 agreeable manners of the people. It does not, however, put bread 
 into their mouths at this particular moment, and therefore the 
 same help in bread and bacon is given by the ' Relief Fund ' as 
 at St. Menges, as well as a portion of preserved meat and coffee 
 for special occasions. 
 
 " I have begged both the cure's of St. Menges and Floing to 
 take care that all their parishioners know that they are helped by 
 an English society, so that the existence of friends abroad may 
 help in giving some little heart and hope to them in their dejec- 
 tion, and the latter intends to hold forth from the pulpit to this 
 effect on Sunday." 
 
 After giving what assistance he could at Sedan, he went 
 on to Thionville and Metz, where he remained a few days, 
 returning to England in December. 
 
 He was immediately after this, January, 1 871, appointed 
 by the Admiralty a member of a " Committee on Designs 
 for Ships ofVVar," on which he served until July. 
 
 In February he went for a few days to Dieppe, to super- 
 intend unloading and transmitting to Paris the stores which 
 the English Government sent to the relief of that capital at 
 the end of the siege. 
 
 During this year of leisure, Captain Goodenough had 
 time to give expression in a public manner to the views on 
 the education of naval officers which had long been matur- 
 ing in his mind. The very considerable number of junior 
 officers, of different grades, who had successively passed 
 through the two large flag-ships he had lately commanded, 
 had afforded him many opportunities of judging personally 
 of the standard of education in our own service ; while a 
 long and intimate intercourse with officers of foreign navies
 
 96 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. ' [Chap. V. 
 
 had enabled him to make a just comparison between their 
 officers and our own. 
 
 He felt strongly our need of a more systematic combina- 
 tion of the education of the practical seaman and the 
 scientific officer, and the drawbacks of sending midshipmen 
 to sea at an early age, thereby taking them away from the 
 ordinary schools of the country, and from the companion- 
 ship of those who were looking forward to and preparing 
 for other professions than their own, and at the same time 
 limiting their grasp of all that goes to make a thoroughly 
 liberal education, and prematurely confining them in the 
 narrower groove of their professional career. 
 
 He read a paper " On the Preliminary Education of 
 Naval Officers," at the United Service Institution ; and 
 also wrote a more popular article, which was published in 
 " Fraser's Magazine." The following passages are from the 
 former paper : — 
 
 " I have been asked to offer to the members of this Institution 
 and through this Institution to the Naval Service, by means of 
 our very useful journal, some remarks on preliminary naval 
 education. They are the results of many years' observation, and 
 of much thought on the training of naval officers, in the course of 
 my service in the largest ships of Her Majesty's navy, during 
 v^^hich time I have become convinced of the necessity of our pro- 
 viding a much moi'e careful and methodical course of instruction 
 for our officers than now exists, or has before existed. 
 
 " I have undertaken my task with some diffidence, but with the 
 assurance of the kind disposition of my brother officers to listen to 
 the ideas which have occurred to me, and to the facts which I can 
 put before them, though ill strung together, trusting that they 
 will connect them, and argue from them in better fashion than I 
 can pretend to do. Engaged as I have been in the active and
 
 Chap. V.] NAVAL EDUCATION. 97 
 
 practical performance of duties afloat for many years, I do not 
 pretend to read such a paper as I can conceive might be offered 
 to you on this subject by those who have studied the machinery 
 of teaching and are acquainted with the ascertained resuks of 
 modern instruction in actual schools. Still, perhaps I may have 
 some knowledge of what results we ourselves obtain, and I may 
 have been able to estimate better than many others the effect of 
 our own recent changes, and of still more recent proposals ; for 
 having been convinced from a very early period of my career that 
 there was occasion to introduce more vietJiod into our system of 
 education, and to leave less to the chapter of accidents, and to the 
 undivided and often ill-directed efforts of the few who emerge 
 from the mass of the possessors of mere superficial knowledge, I 
 have naturally been confirmed and strengthened in my early views 
 — the progress and inventions of the last twenty-five years having 
 tended materially to methodise the practice of navigation and the 
 management of ships of war. 
 
 " I do not expect to convince any one off-hand of the accuracy 
 of my judgment in the matter. My wish is chiefly to excite 
 thought and examination of the subject, and to evoke free dis- 
 cussion, not only here in this theatre, but in the journals and 
 periodical publications of the profession, for I am of those who 
 believe that more good than harm is to be attained by the dis- 
 cussion of most professional subjects, and that the power which 
 exists in all military services of suppressing or forbidding such 
 discussions should be exercised most sparingly and patiently. 
 
 " I should be guilty of an absurd and forced indifference to what 
 is passing around me if I were not to say that an impression now 
 exists very generally in the service that the view which finds most 
 favour with regard to the training of officers for Her Majesty's navy 
 is, that the naval officer should be caught young, that he should 
 be made to devote himself to the details, and nothing but details 
 of his profession from boyhood to youth, and from youth to middle 
 age, and that somewhere between middle age and old age lie 
 should be deemed to be worn out, and be thrown away a pensioner
 
 98 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 on the country's gratitude, unfit even to have a voice in the guidance 
 of the affairs of the service to which he may have been an ornament. 
 I say that such is the impression abroad, and I entreat those who 
 can show that it is not so, and who can contribute to remove 
 such, to aid in doing so, for such an impression is doing much 
 harm in all directions. It is weakening the desire for knowledge 
 and self-improvement in naval officers ; it is tending to narrow 
 and circumscribe the idea of responsibility of a naval commander 
 for all things coming within his ken, and to lower his conception 
 of his own position from that of a representative of his country in 
 all parts of the world, an agent of her policy, and a guardian of 
 her commerce, to that of being a mere executive tool, whose only 
 ■argument is force. The naval reputation of this country has not 
 been achieved by men who held so mutilated a notion of their 
 duty as to be the mere executioners of their country's judgments. 
 I believe that I may boldly say that we have scarcely a man in 
 our naval history, distinguished as a naval commander in action, 
 who has not also been distinguished in some other pursuit, pro- 
 fessional or otherwise, practical or scientific ; but if we continue to 
 acquiesce in the meagre education which is at present permitted 
 to naval officers, we must resign ourselves to the position of a 
 Chinese military mandarin, and be at the beck and call of civilians 
 and consuls, and to be hustled and forced into perpetual mistakes 
 in war. I would, therefore, here give a word of encouragement to 
 those who have felt the chill which is given by the indifference to 
 individual exertion out of the main line of routine of a continually 
 narrowing departmental system. I would say, ' Don't be afraid 
 of discouragement in following up any line of study which your 
 taste leads you to choose. Nothing prevents your taste and your 
 study from running side by side. Nothing that you can learn 
 will come amiss to you in your profession. Nothing which you 
 learn can be useless to you. More than this, if you wish to serve 
 your country as a commander of any force, great or small, you 
 must nourish yourself by study. Opportunities come in vain to 
 men who are unprepared. No visible smile may encourage you.
 
 Chap. V.] NEED OF SYSTEM. 99 
 
 but Ic del faidera. Your day will come. The Danes always land, 
 ^our qui salt attcndre. Above all, don't fancy that the jncn of the 
 department of 'Government under which you serve are against 
 you. The tendency of a departmental system is stronger than the 
 men, and they, in many things, are as much chilled and bound by 
 it as yon may fancy yourself to be. You are only chilled by its 
 influence now. One day you may be bound by it also, until the 
 day when the general spread of educated and instructed, willing 
 intelligence shall set us free from the bonds of system, while 
 giving us free use of its machinery. 
 
 " The warning which I would give, and it contains the whole 
 case, is this : that while all other circumstances of life at sea have 
 -changed considerably in the last thirty years, the preliminary 
 training of our officers has not changed in its main features. It is 
 not merely that our materiel, whether in ships or guns, steam 
 ■engines or canvas, has changed ; it is not only that our materiel 
 has become far more complicated than of yore. If that alone 
 were the case the system of a former age might supply the wants 
 •of the day. No ! the change whose bearing we have failed to 
 acknowledge, even though we may have perceived it, is this : 
 that while formerly the conduct of ships at sea, their discipline, 
 and the handling of their materiel generally was based on the 
 experience obtained in the practice of individual lives from early 
 years, and on an acquaintance with external phenomena and 
 internal details which were not reduced to laws or elevated into 
 systems ; now we do possess rules and laws which greatly reduce 
 the value if they do not quite supersede the practical experience 
 of a single life. 
 
 " In every one of the varied practical duties of a sea officer this 
 is the case, whether in navigation or in discipline, in artillery or 
 in manoeuvring ; and I say that this constitutes the great change 
 in a sea life to which we have no corresponding advance. I say 
 that although those laws and systems exist, we still continue to let 
 the details which they include be painfully and only partially 
 
 n 2
 
 lOO COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V.. 
 
 acquired by experience, instead of methodically teaching the 
 principles on which they are based. Such a course not only 
 involves the waste of many years of life, but also burdens the 
 mind with ill-assorted facts. The opposite course educates while 
 it instructs and enlarges the mind to receive much more solid 
 knowledge, as well as actually many more facts. I do not say 
 that there are not here and there talented young officers who have 
 made the most of their time, and of special and exceptional 
 opportunities ; but I do say that the mass are ill-taught in all 
 subjects, and particularly in those exclusively practical and pro- 
 fessional ones for which the present system is sought to be 
 retained." 
 
 Speaking of the age of entry into the navy, he con- 
 tinues : — 
 
 " It has been said that early entry into the Service is associated 
 with all the traditions of the navy, is in accordance with its 
 historical recollections, and is in unison with the general tone of 
 professional feeling on the subject; that it insures the obtaining a 
 supply of young officers at a time when their minds, being plastic 
 and docile, and their habits and modes of thought yet unformed, 
 they can be more easily inured to the peculiar habits of a sea life, 
 be more accustomed to its unavoidable privations and occasional 
 hardships, be trained up in attachment to their profession, and 
 be induced to adopt it heartily as their vocation in life. 
 
 " I am therefore impelled to ask if this opinion is sustained by 
 facts. Is it a fact that the education received at large or public 
 schools is such as to make boys less docile or plastic than is con- 
 sistent with their adoption of a profession of hardship ? Is the 
 habit or mode of thought which is formed at a public school an 
 opposite one to that demanded by the naval career, or incom- 
 patible with it ? Are the peculiar habits, the unavoidable priva- 
 tions, and the occasional hardships such as to turn the stomach of 
 a jjublic schoolboy? Is the age of seventeen or eighteen toO'
 
 ■Chap. V.] EDUCATION AND TRAINING. lOI 
 
 'late for a reasonably educated lad to accept and attach himself to 
 a career which combines much enterprise and interest with a 
 service of honour? And, finally, while early entry into the 
 Service is no doubt associated with its history and traditions, is it 
 in unison with the general tone of professional feeling on the 
 subject ? 
 
 "I shall not go into details in explaining my own proposals for 
 preliminary education and training of naval officers, but the prin- 
 ciples on which I consider that that education should rest are 
 these : — First, that a distinction should be made between the 
 period of education and that of special training j secondly, that 
 special training should be the business of the Government, while 
 •education should be left to the care of the parents at the ordinary 
 schools of the country ; thirdly, that the handling of ships' sails 
 and boats, and the principles of command, should be methodically 
 taught, instead of, as at present, being left to chance observations 
 -and the accidents of service; fourthly, that the young officers 
 under training in school ships should have no command except 
 over each other, and should count no sea-time, and that on entering 
 the service afloat in sea-going ships they should become at once in 
 some measure responsible officers, though liable to future examina- 
 tion, and to produce evidence of having done work after leaving the 
 training ships ; fifthly, that in order to discourage cramming all 
 entrance examinations should be confined, as far as possible, to 
 the subjects of study at advanced public schools, and that every 
 •candidate should be required to bring with him certificates of a 
 year's good conduct from his last school. 
 
 " Why, I ask, is it necessary for the Government to undertake 
 the work of education as distinguished from special training ? Are 
 the schools of this country so bad ? Is it that their course of 
 instruction is so ill-suited to modern aims as to make it necessary 
 to set up a model Government establishment ? I think not. I 
 believe that a Government school cannot in the long run compete 
 in this country with our public schools, and therefore I wish to
 
 I02 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 see the work of education accomplished before the Government 
 begins that of special training. I regret the loss of individuality, 
 which is inevitable when all young gentlemen are passed through 
 the same course from the age of twelve years. Captain Sherard 
 Osborn, an officer of eminence, and of distinguished merit in our 
 profession as a man of varied experience of the world, and an 
 instance of most successful self-culture, and to whose opinion I 
 therefore attach great value, advocates early education apart from 
 special training, and deprecates the loss of individuality which 
 ensues from long continued running in the same groove." 
 
 In conclusion he says : — 
 
 " I have been told that it is not desirable to make the navy a 
 scientific service. Science indeed ! We are far from that — we 
 are safe enough from any danger of that sort. I only wish for 
 such an education and training as shall enable our officers to 
 understand a few elements of the laws by which their ships float, 
 and move, and are guided ; such an education as will secure them 
 from asking the impossible in a ship, while it prepares them to 
 comprehend the simple phenomena and acts of nature ; and such 
 a training as will enable them to discharge efficiently the routine 
 duties of their profession, and to maintain an ascendancy over 
 those they will be called on to command. Don't suppose that I 
 speak of science. I speak of things which concern the safe navi- 
 gation, or, at least, the economic navigation of ships. I speak 
 of tlie bare elements, and not of any deep scientific acquirement. 
 And if I go a hair's breadth away from practical professional 
 topics, I may ask, What is the knowledge of military law ? — what 
 is the knowledge of the leading principles of the rules of evidence ? 
 — what of political geography? — what of our own mercantile 
 marine ? — what of maritime law ? I leave these questions to be 
 thought over by those who have sat as members of a court martial' 
 — by those who have found themselves the servant of a consul at 
 some unexpected political crisis, or who have been face to face
 
 Chap. V.] NA I 'AL A TTA CHE. 1 03 
 
 with mutinous merchant ships. It is then too late to look into 
 the elements which should have been acquired in youth, and for 
 want of which the gravest errors are often committed in judging 
 of facts presented to our notice. Are we who go down to the 
 sea in ships, and occupy our business in great waters, are we 
 alone of all men only to see the works of the Lord and His 
 wonders in the deep, and not to comprehend them? Are we 
 alone, by reason of our isolation when on service, and our Avant 
 of preparation before it, to be debarred from examining, reasoning 
 on, and enjoying the wonders of nature and the diversity and 
 infinity of creation ? Can we be right in allowing so much 
 endowment and so many well-formed minds to lie fallow for so 
 long ? All reason, all analogy is against it, and sooner or later the 
 intelligent opinion of this country will dictate to our service what 
 it requires of us. I wish to be beforehand with the country. I 
 do not wish for that dictation ; and, to avoid being forced into 
 much that I should not approve, I wish to effect our reforms from 
 within, being confident that that character which I love, and 
 which has been described by a great statesman as the noblest and 
 finest this country can produce, will be enriched by culture, and 
 reinvigorated and nerved by mental discipline, and thus be fitted 
 to render as deep and lasting services to our country as those of 
 the great seamen who have gone before us." 
 
 In August, 1 87 1, Captain Goodenough was appointed 
 naval attache to the Maritime Courts of Europe, with 
 orders to visit the different arsenals of the Continent, and 
 to report to the Foreign Office upon the navies of the 
 European powers. He started in September for St Peters- 
 burg, where he remained for some weeks. 
 
 Among the amusing anecdotes of which he had so ready 
 a store, was one of a visit to a factory which was to be 
 shown with much ostentation and pride as having a
 
 104 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 management exclusively Russian. After visiting the whole 
 of the works without being undeceived, the party repaired 
 to luncheon, when an unassuming individual coming into 
 the room was introduced by the director. " Oh ! I beg 
 your pardon, this is our Scotchman, Mr. A., taken over 
 with the establishment." To which the new comer, in an 
 unmistakably Scotch accent, added, " Yes ! Lot 99 ! " 
 Of St. Petersburg he writes : — 
 
 " I haven't told you of the impression made on me by St. 
 Petersburg. I said to myself Astrakhan ! ! as I drove past the 
 eastern-looking markets and bazaars ; and really there is a strong 
 tinge of eastern look and habit in the place and people. The 
 defect — as a town, is that every street and building except the 
 churches has a straight horizontal sky line, and the streets are so 
 wide that one can see this defect. Then the streets are horribly 
 paved, except those which lead from the palace to each theatre, 
 which are paved with wood at immense cost. Subject for moral 
 reflections ! I have been paying my last visit to the hermitage, 
 which is simply wonderful in its wealth, and admirable in its 
 arrangements. Such Rembrandts, such De Hooge''s, Mieris, and 
 Ruysdael's, so beautifully placed and lit, and down stairs such 
 wonders of antiquities from the Greek colonies on the Black Sea, 
 such gems of Greek art of all sorts. It is a delightful place, and 
 I wished that F., who is more worthy than I, had had the enjoy- 
 ment of it. A gallery full of Peter the Great's tools and work is 
 there also, and himself sitting on a chair in the middle. I really felt 
 some awe in looking at the man who is the author of everytJimg 
 here, by mere effort of will. Hardly anything has yet passed the 
 boundaries which he marked out as the future of his own town. 
 x\cademies, harbours, and quays, palaces, and gardens were all 
 
 originated by him I am amazed at the way I talk of 
 
 spreading all over Europe, and wonder if I shall ever see or find 
 out anything of interest. I shall study persomiel well, for I am a
 
 Chap. V.] RUSSIA. 105 
 
 bad hand at finding out secrets if they have any. Really, perhaps 
 the best thing one can do is to allay the foolish fears of aggression 
 •which come up every now and then." 
 
 The following letter was also written about this time : — 
 
 " St. Petersburg, October 10, 1871. 
 " I have been reading Sir John Pakington's very noble-minded 
 speech on Education, &c., at the Social Science Congress. I 
 hardly expected him to be so outspoken, but it shows to what 
 lengths an earnest man is carried who has faithfully and logically 
 accepted the conclusions to which his observation and reason 
 have led him. His speech will do more good among the young 
 Conservatives than a dozen from a Liberal speaker, and will gain 
 any number of votes for the Government. Anything that all the 
 Navy and Army of England can do singly and independently is 
 not equal to a hundredth part of the strength which would be 
 gained to the country by following Sir John Pakington's advice — 
 looking at it from that limited point of view alone. But what 
 a glory if we should lead the world in knowledge, in justice, in 
 brotherly kindness, and in goodness, — what an end to work and live 
 for, or to die for, even to contribute in the least towards it." 
 
 From St. Petersburg, going south, he visited Nicolayeff 
 and Odessa, whence three days and nights of railway 
 travelling brought him to Vienna ; from there he proceeded 
 at once to Berlin, arriving just in time to be present at 
 the debates on the naval estimates in the German Chamber. 
 From Berlin he visited Dantzig, Kiel, Willhelmshafen, and 
 a gun-foundry establishment at Egger, 
 
 At the end of December he proceeded to Paris, where he 
 remained for four months, acquainting himself with all the 
 details of the French navy, and renewing his former friend-
 
 Io6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 ships with many officers of that service whom he had met 
 Avith on different foreign stations. He visited by turns 
 Cherbourg, Brest, Rochefort, and Toulon. From one of 
 the French dockyards he brought back the following 
 story concerning the inauguration of the republic. Orders 
 having been received to announce the establishment of the 
 republic, an admiral mustered the crew of his flag-ship on 
 the quarter-deck, and informed them of the change in the 
 government, and that the motto of France from henceforth 
 would be " Liberte, Fraternite, Egalite ! " The men were 
 dismissed, and were leaving the deck, when he suddenly 
 recalled them, adding, " Seulement, mes enfants, souvenez- 
 vous d'une chose — c'est que la liberte n'embarque 
 jamais ! * 
 
 Of this continued travelling he says : — 
 
 " An old friend writing to me says, ' I hope your appointment 
 is not to be your Capua,' to which I reply, ' My only Capua is a 
 first class railway carriage, and that has not many enticements.' " 
 
 Still we see that he could find pleasure in railway travel- 
 ling, too : — 
 
 "Toulon, April 26th, 1872. 
 
 " We left Paris yesterday. For the first time in my life I thought 
 that flat country between Paris and Dijon lovely. The fresh 
 spring leaves and grass have made it so. The moon was well up 
 as we came out of Lyons, and the effect on one or two reaches of 
 the Rhone was magnificent. I woke at Aries at five, just in time 
 to see the first rays of the sun lighting the walls of the amphi- 
 theatre, and at six caught the first glimpse of the Mediterranean^ 
 
 * Only my men, remember one thing, liberty never goes afloat !
 
 Chap, v.] ITALY AND AUSTRIA. 107 
 
 calm and still, too calm to give back the deep blue of the sky- 
 overhead." 
 
 In April he proceeded to Italy, spending a week at La 
 Spezzia, where the new dockyard and arsenal were visffed ; 
 and then went to Rome, in order to see the Italian Minister 
 of Marine. His business kept him but five days at Rome, 
 too short a time on a first visit to see much of its treasures 
 of antiquity and art ; but what hours he could spare from 
 work he eagerly devoted to visiting the wonders of that 
 city, which was to him a source of the greatest enjoyment. 
 
 After spending two days at Venice (which enchanted 
 him, and which he laughingly said was the place where a 
 naval attache ought to live) he crossed to Trieste, to 
 begin his report on the Austrian navy. Here he was 
 joined by his brother, Colonel Goodenough, R.A., who was 
 at that time military attache to the English embassy at 
 Vienna ; and the two proceeded to Pola, a beautiful spot 
 on the Adriatic, where is the great Austrian dockyard, and 
 where some artillery experiments were at that moment 
 being conducted. From Pola he proceeded to Fiume, 
 further south on the Adriatic, where the Austrian Naval 
 Academy is established. From thence the brothers returned 
 to Vienna, where Captain Goodenough concluded his 
 report on the Austrian navy. Thence he went to Constan- 
 tinople, following the course of the Danube to its mouth. 
 He arrived there just in time for the fairy-like illuminations- 
 in honour of the Sultan's birthday. At Constantinople he 
 found several acquaintances who welcomed him very kindly : 
 nearly all the young commanders of the Turkish ironclad 
 squadron having been attached as lieutenants to the Eng-
 
 I08 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 lish navy a few years before, having served in the various 
 ships of our Channel squadron. 
 
 From Constantinople Captain Goodenough returned by 
 Syra, Corfu, and Trieste to Paris ; and shortly afterwards, 
 in August, 1872, asked leave to resign his appointment, as 
 he did not wish, nor did he think he could, with much 
 advantage to the public service, go over the same ground 
 at once again ; and also he was anxious, as soon as pos- 
 sible, to return to the regular line of naval service afloat. 
 
 This was the first year of the Autumn Manoeuvres, and 
 Captain Goodenough threw himself heartily into the inte- 
 rest they afforded — first visiting various regiments which 
 were encamped in the neighbourhood of the New Forest, 
 where he was living ; and afterwards following the whole of 
 the actual mancEuvres on horseback. This was to him a 
 delightful holiday, and one which he enjoyed with all the 
 force of his varied powers of interest and appreciation.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 APPOINTED COMMODORE OF THE AUSTRALIAN STATION — VOYAGE TO NEW 
 ZEALAND— FIJI — SYDNEY — MELBOURNE— TASMANIA — CAPTAIN COOK — 
 ADELAIDE — NEW HEBRIDES. 
 
 Captain Goodenough spent the next winter in London 
 — studying, attending lectures, working both at gunnery 
 and other things connected with the naval service, till in 
 April, 1873, he received from the First Lord of the 
 Admiralty the offer of going to Australia as Commodore 
 in command of H.M.S. "Pearl." This was a command 
 which for some years he had looked upon as one which 
 would specially interest him, and he at once began to 
 prepare himself for his new work, trying to learn as much 
 as he could of those seas, then quite unknown to him, 
 as he wished to arrive on his station possessed of all the 
 knowledge of it which he could obtain. He visited the 
 different missionary societies who were labouring in those 
 latitudes, asking for all the information he could get. He 
 at once set about collecting all the records of the early 
 discoverers and voyagers of the South Seas, and succeeded 
 in getting together a large collection of their works. 
 
 The Pearl was commissioned in May, 1873, and sailed 
 from Spithead in June.
 
 no COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 The following is the draft of an address to the ship's 
 ■company of the Pearl on the day of commissioning, which 
 was spoken in somewhat similar terms : — 
 
 " Men ! 
 
 " We are this day commissioned for three years' service on the 
 most distant station of the world. Out of this three years, or 
 thirty-six months, or a hundred and fifty weeks, or a thousand 
 days, whichever way we like to put it, we shall probably pass, 
 «ach of us, at least nineteen-twentieths, or say nine hundred and 
 fifty days, actually on board this very ship on whose deck we now 
 stand. 
 
 " You will thus see in a moment that it is of the utmost import- 
 ance that, in the few days of preparation that are left us before we 
 quit home, we should leave nothing undone which can in any way 
 contribute to our passing those three years with credit and profit 
 to ourselves, to each other, to the good name of our ship, our 
 service, our profession as seamen, and to our country. With this 
 reflection, let me remind you that the first impressions made on 
 peoples' minds are generally the most lasting ; that it is desirable 
 that from this day you should each produce an impression on 
 myself, and on your ofiicers generally, that each of you is to be 
 trusted ; that each of you has a character to lose or !o maintain ; 
 that it is desirable that we should as a whole make an impression 
 on the Commander-in-Chief and dockyard officers of this port, 
 that we are a well-conducted and smart ship's company, and that 
 we may hear after we have left the port that we are of the right, 
 and not of the wrong, sort. 
 
 "Each of you has some experience of the navy, and does not 
 need to be reminded of the rules of the service ; but there are 
 still some things on which the good order and comfort of every- 
 one depends. The first is, that every man should strictly, smartly, 
 and immediately obey the orders of his superior officer and petty 
 officer; the second is, that the greatest comfort to every one
 
 Chap. VI.] H.M.S. PEARL. 1 1 1 
 
 results from men returning punctually on board to their leave. 
 My experience is a large one, in large ships, and amongst large 
 ships' companies ; and I tell you, that a man who breaks his 
 leave is a source of discomfort, not only to himself, but to every- 
 one else on board the ship ; and that every petty officer and man 
 lias it laid upon him as a positive duty to see that his messmate 
 and subordinate returns on board punctually to his leave. 
 
 " The last point on which I have now to remark is this : that 
 €very man in the service has a proper way in which to make 
 known any request, or to ask any favour, or to state any com- 
 plaint or grievance which he is suffering under. Any personal 
 request ought to be made to the lieutenant of his division, or if 
 time will not allow of his waiting for divisions, to the officer of 
 the watch. If any number of men have any request to make 
 about one common object, they should make it to the petty 
 officers of the day, and the petty officers will bring it either to the 
 officer of the watch, or to the commander (accompanied by 
 the master-at-arms), at the time that they think proper. The 
 ship's company will look to the petty officers to acquaint them 
 from time to time with any rules and regulations which may be 
 issued, 
 
 " Now to back the arrangements which may be made for our 
 comfort : I found when I was last serving afloat that a very 
 excellent plan to follow was to have a canteen on board the ship, 
 to sell cheese and eggs, and other small luxuries, to the ship's 
 company ; and this I recommend you to do. The only thing 
 necessary is to have a little money to start with to buy stock, and 
 this can be very easily obtained," &c., &c. 
 
 During the voyage to this station, and on most of 
 his cruises in the Pearl and excursions on shore, he 
 enjoyed the companionship of his connection, the Hon. 
 and Rev. Algernon Stanley, whom he had asked to accom- 
 pany him to Australia.
 
 1 1 2 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VL 
 
 Of his various cruises in that ship, Captain Goodenough 
 speaks fully in his Journal here published ; but as that 
 Journal was only kept at sea, it may be well to speak 
 a little of his stay in Sydney ; and a few letters to friends 
 in Eneland record his observations on the Australian 
 colonies. And here, at the commissioning of his last ship, 
 a few words may be said of the way in which he regarded 
 his men, and of how he felt for them. It has been said, in 
 a letter before quoted, that he was a strict disciplinarian, 
 and that he never passed unnoticed a lapse of duty ; but 
 his sense of justice was such that those reproved generally 
 acknowledged him right. And though he seldom thought 
 it right to show it, yet he so looked at things from all sides 
 that he made allowances in his own mind and estimation (at 
 times incomprehensible to bystanders) for the difficulties 
 of the individual cases or characters with which he was 
 dealinsf. He had so ardent a desire to raise himself and all 
 that surrounded him to the high ideal he placed before 
 him, that he was ready to sacrifice anything, whether of his 
 own gratification or of that of others, for the attainment of 
 his object. The great moving spring of his life, of which he 
 spoke so openly on his death-bed — Love — the love of God 
 — the love of men — the love of right, of honesty, of purity — 
 carried him often beyond the consideration of the moment, 
 or the immediate consequences of what he did ; while he 
 looked upon his actions as a part of the great upward 
 striving which he sought to bring about, for his men, for 
 himself, for his service, for his country. 
 
 As he told his men at the last, he loved them — though, 
 with his almost stern ideas of discipline, he seldom allowed
 
 Chap. VI.] FEELING FOR HIS MEN. II3 
 
 himself to show it, or to reveal the intense tenderness of his 
 lieart and feelings ; but he told his men, at a meeting given 
 by a temperance society in Sydney a few weeks before his 
 •death, and where he was asked to address them, how glad 
 he was of that opportunity of doing so, not quite as he 
 would on the quarter-deck, but in the relationship in which 
 he felt towards them, and in which he wished them to 
 regard him — as their Friend. 
 
 Nothing gave him more pleasure than when an old 
 shipmate 'of some former ship would come to him, often 
 waylaying him as he crossed Southsea Common, with 
 some request or other, often difficult or even impossible 
 to comply with ; but it gratified him to feel that his men 
 knew that he would serve them if it lay in his power. 
 A speech made to him by a very old shipmate one day, 
 and which amused him very much, testifies to this feeling. 
 Coming to see him once on returning from a cruise, the old 
 pensioner, who was always welcomed in the cabin, greeted 
 him with, " Well, Captain Goodenough ! Sir, I'm proud to 
 liear the character your men give of you, sir ! After all, 
 we are all the same flesh and blood ! " 
 
 Another old pensioned seaman, talking to some people 
 he was rowing about of his blue-jacket experiences, hap- 
 pened to say he had sailed with Captain Goodenough, and 
 how gladly he had done so. " I suppose he was a very easy 
 captain } " said his hearer. " No," said the man ; " he was 
 very strict ; but when he punished a man he seemed sorry!' 
 And this is borne out by a rule he had made, when he had 
 rewards and punishments to give, of always seeing the 
 offenders first, and giving the rewards after — partly not to
 
 114 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VL 
 
 keep the ofifenders waiting, and getting more uncomfort- 
 able and hard every minute ; but also, as 'he expressed it, 
 not to leave himself with a bad taste in his mouth ! As 
 years went on he punished less and less, the results 
 being always satisfactory ; but where he thought a severe 
 punishment necessary and well merited, he was inflexible 
 in carrying it out. His ideas against corporal punishment 
 were most decided. 
 
 He also had strong views on the subject of leave, 
 always wishing to give as much leave as possible ; his 
 idea being to train the seamen to use, and not to abuse 
 their liberty and increased culture and their superior educa- 
 tion, which made them so different a class of men to the 
 seamen of a former generation. It was a source of great 
 pleasure to him one day, when accompanying some foreign 
 officers at some gunnery experiments, to see the surprise 
 of these gentlemen at the lucid and thorough explanation 
 of some intricate invention which was given by a gunner's 
 mate of the " Excellent." The gunner's mates were a class 
 whom he greatly regarded, and in the parting scene on 
 the quarter-deck of the "Pearl" he solemnly addressed 
 those belonging to that ship, telling them that he believed 
 that on the gunner's mates of the service depended much 
 of the future well-being and discipline of the navy. 
 
 He was eager about the establishment of canteens, 
 having found them answer very well in the two last ships 
 he commanded. He did not sanction the sale of beer in 
 these canteens, as he did not consider it in accordance 
 with the spirit of the Admiralty instructions, though he 
 would have been glad to do so otherwise, in the hopes of
 
 Chap. VI. J VOVACE TO AUSTRALIA. II5 
 
 its checking the use of spirits. He would gladly have seen 
 the issue of spirits abolished, as he held that many a boy 
 received his first taste for drinking spirits from the ration 
 served out to liim. At one time he took a good deal of 
 trouble to ascertain whether it would not be possible to 
 carry condensed beer — at least, in large ships — so as to 
 issue beer instead of rum. 
 
 The Pearl made a long passage to the Cape, and 
 thence a rapid one to Western Australia, and an equally 
 rapid one to Wellington, New Zealand. Here, on Sep- 
 tember 17th, Captain Goodenough relieved Commodore 
 Stirling in the command of the Australian station ; and on 
 the departure of that officer he hoisted his broad pendant 
 as commodore of the second class. 
 
 At the Cape he was met with the sad announcement of 
 the death of his eldest sister, which took place very shortly 
 after he left England. The following letter, written not 
 long before her death, is interesting, not only as giving her 
 estimate of her brother's character, but from the almost 
 presentiment it seems to indicate of what was so soon to 
 happen — how, in little more than half the four years she 
 speaks of, the writer and the subject of her letter should 
 both have been called away. 
 
 " Lyndhurst, May, 1S73. 
 
 " Jem has just left us for Portsmouth. His last visit for so 
 long could not pass over without graver if not sadder feelings of 
 what might affect us in four years, and I think his noble lofty 
 nature — so serene, so untroubled by little worldly rufiles, so 
 simple and so loving — never came home to me more forcibly. 
 It is impossible not to feel one is breathing a purer and larger 
 atmosphere in him, for his first thoughts are given to raising, 
 
 I 2
 
 Il6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 helping, improving, and ennobling all who come in contact with 
 him ; and, like all great hearts, he gives them credit for a large 
 share of his own disinterestedness." 
 
 On leaving England, Captain Goodenough had been 
 instructed to proceed to Fiji, and there, in conjunction with 
 Mr. Layard, H.M.'s consul, to report upon the state of that 
 group, and on the advisability of the annexation of those 
 islands to the British Crown, on which subject he had 
 received personal instructions from the Ministry. 
 
 Commodore Goodenough therefore, at once, on assuming 
 his command, proceeded to Fiji, paying a short visit to the 
 Samoan or Navigator Islands on his way. He arrived in 
 Fiji in November, 1873 : and the next five months were 
 spent, in company with Mr. Layard, in close and arduous 
 work — enquiring and examining into everything that con- 
 cerns the Fiji Islands, both with the King and Government 
 in the capital, and in cruises to different parts of the group, 
 everywhere assembling both the white planters and the 
 iiative chiefs, and hearing most patiently their opinions and 
 views, getting all possible information on all sides. 
 
 On the result of this inquiry was founded the report 
 which Mr. Layard and Commodore Goodenough made to 
 the Home Government, and which was laid before Par- 
 h'ament. 
 
 These months in Fiji have been thus described by an 
 •eye-witness : — 
 
 " He threw all his energies — and they were great, both physical 
 and mental — into the work in Fiji. He would take nothing for 
 granted ; personal inquiry and inspection guided him ; he went 
 from place to place, from island to island, seeing first one chief,
 
 Chap. VI.] FIJI. 1 1 7 
 
 then another ; at one time going into the interior, to try and hold 
 personal communication with the mountain cannibals ; at another 
 visiting some plantation, tasting sugar-cane, examining cotton, 
 seeing everything for himself. So passed the months in Fiji, 
 ascertaining the capabilities of the country, the feelings and dispo- 
 sitions of whites and natives, all the time with such a genial 
 bearing, such courtesy and kindness to all, with such evident 
 power and knowledge, with such entire candour and truthfulness, 
 that all alike, white and coloured, honoured, trusted, loved him. 
 Especially was he dear to the Fijian chiefs, who had implicit 
 trust in ' the Commodore.' " 
 
 Towards the end of March, Cakobau and the other 
 chiefs of Fiji made an offer of cession of those islands to 
 the British Crown. 
 
 Commodore Goodenough's own views with regard to the 
 annexation of Fiji are thus expressed in a private letter, 
 written about this time : — 
 
 "H.M.S. Pearl, Levuka, Fiji. April i2tli, 1S74. 
 
 " .... I cannot but look upon annexation as a positive 
 duty, putting aside altogether the great advantage of having Fiji 
 as a central station in Polynesia, in which respect the situation is 
 the very best which can be found. It seems to me a duty in 
 many ways. In old times we constantly lectured the chiefs about 
 good government, we have interfered right and left with their 
 affairs, and we have thus caused them to look to us for support 
 with some confidence and to distrust themselves. 
 
 " Then our settlers have come, and, on the presumption that 
 they were all great people enjoying the help of the British Consul, 
 they were received, and land was given them on terms which they 
 would not have got if the natives had not tmsted in us. In some 
 cases actual force was used to gain land to which an Englishman 
 had but slender title, and in others intimidation.
 
 IlS COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 " The state of things is a good deal owing to our neglect also. 
 There is no doubt in my mind that had magisterial powers been 
 given to a Consul as recommended by Colonel Smythe, much of 
 the trouble and annoyance of the last few years would have been 
 avoided, and the Consul would have enjoyed the respect due to 
 him. That would have done five years ago, and the country 
 would have been kept quiet, though it would not have progressed 
 under such an arrangement. Now it is altogether too late, and 
 annexation is imperative. The very indebtedness of the country 
 is partly due to England ; for, in the first place, difficulties and dis- 
 couragements raised by English officials caused expense, and the 
 subsequent help aff"orded by men of war to the Government kept 
 it from falling to pieces while it went on spending the money of 
 the settlers, and running them in debt to the amount of ^60,000 
 or ;^£"7 0,000. I think that these facts, added to my clear opinion, 
 that if Her Majesty's Government refuse, we shall have a break 
 up of Government, and repudiation of debt, and ruin to a good 
 many industrious people, justify me in saying it is now a positive 
 duty to undertake the government here, both for the sake of 
 whites and natives." 
 
 In the month of April the Commodore left Fiji, and, 
 stopping at New Caledonia for a few days, arrived at 
 Sydney in May. Here he was joined, a few days after his 
 arrival, by his wife and children ; and here — after ten 
 years of married life, in which he had been continually 
 moving about — he formed, in a house liberally provided by 
 the Government of New South Wales, his first and only 
 established and settled home. 
 
 The next two months were spent in Sydney, during 
 which time the Pearl was refitting, and her captain and 
 ofiicers had opportunities of becoming acquainted with that 
 beautiful city, and making friends with its kindly and
 
 Chap. VI.J SYDNEY. II9 
 
 hospitable inhabitants. A member of that community 
 has thus spoken of the impression Commodore Goodenough 
 made in the society of Sydney : — 
 
 " The feature which struck every one most forcibly on his first 
 meeting with Commodore Goodenough, which was visible in the 
 very mould of his face and the expression of his eye, was resolu- 
 tion and fixedness of purpose ; and yet scarcely had this impres- 
 sion been conveyed to you, when it was succeeded by another, 
 for the desire to do good had fixed its divine seal upon that coun- 
 tenance in such deep and clear lines, that no one could mistake 
 it — it was not a mere desire to make people good, which many a 
 morose and imperious temper may lay claim to with some amount 
 of sincerity, but you saw that the wearer of that face found hap- 
 piness in goodness, and desired to make others the partakers of 
 his own experience. A man of great firmness gf will often shows 
 it only by making the wills of others bow to his own, in other 
 words, a despot ; but this man's despotism was over himself, his 
 finuness was the instrument by which he moulded his own temper 
 and conduct, till it should become a worthy pattern for the imita- 
 tion of others. A despot loves command for its own sake, and in 
 order that those over whom he rules may respect him ; but he 
 cherished command as a means of making other men better, and 
 with the aim of making every one subject to his authority, to 
 respect himself A friend of mine lately observed that there was 
 nothing more touching than to see him at a feast : he had often 
 met him when men, as they yielded to the exhilarating influence 
 of wine, dropped their sullen and selfish look, and became cheerful 
 and sympathetic ; but there sat the solitary water-drinker, from the 
 beginning to the end of the feast, his countenance lit up with an 
 intelligent smile, enjoying the company of his fellow men, by 
 reason of a far deeper bond than participation in the same plea- 
 sure. He had renounced this species of excitement, not because 
 he had found any harm from it, or believed tha there was any
 
 I20 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI.. 
 
 harm in it to men of ordinaiy self-control ; but he was a com- 
 mander of men, and with him command meant beneficence, and 
 command meant example, — 
 
 ' So did'st thou travel on life's common way 
 In cheerful godliness.' 
 
 Such is the address of Wordsworth to Milton, when he is moved 
 by the prevalent selfishness of his own age, to apostrophise him 
 as one whose return would bring things to a worthier condition ;, 
 and it is the cheerful godliness of such men as our lamented com- 
 modore which does far more good to its generation by purging it 
 of its selfishness, than a legion of adventurous exploits." 
 
 The following letter gives some of the early impressions 
 he conceived of Australia, while it also shows how his mind 
 was ever dwelling on the highest interests of the Navy : — - 
 
 " Sydney, July &,tJi, 1874. 
 
 " I have just been reading the naval debates of April, and am 
 amazed at the sudden tremor which has passed over the country 
 again about the navy. Probably by this time it is all over, and 
 the originators of the scare are beginning to be sorry that they 
 made their whole charge, horse, foot and artillery at once, leaving" 
 no reserve to fall back upon when the weakness of their line Avas 
 established ; I am always sorry for those party attacks. They 
 divert the proper attention of conscientious friends of the navy 
 from the real needs of the service, and cause those disquieting 
 spasmodic leaps in naval policy which are barren of real 
 progress. Mr. Samuda seemed to be fully impressed with this, 
 but naval officers are apt to degenerate into a bitter tone when 
 they take up politics. 
 
 " The definite and resolute plan fixed upon by the German 
 Government is very instructive to us in that respect. The German 
 government have now three times laid down a Flottcngriindung^ s: 
 plan, each time preparing for its naval development over a period 
 of eight to ten years, and have gone on ' ohne hast und ohne
 
 Chap. VI.] LETTERS. 1 2 1 
 
 rast,' till we are one day amazed at their success. This sort of 
 programme is one which would confer the greatest benefit upon 
 the future naval construction of the countr}^ ; and, that we have 
 not laid out a programme of the sort shews, I think — ist, the 
 inconvenience of the close application of the plan of attaching 
 responsibility for detail on the minister, as well as I fear the 
 general distrust in professional members regularly or specially 
 called in to advise the First Lord. 
 
 " When one considers that some elements of the defence of the 
 country have been planned and considered for long years ahead, 
 have been estimated for and carried on from year to year, one 
 ought to be encouraged, I think, to extend such a system to the 
 construction of a fleet, if not to the regulation of the number 
 of the personnel to be employed in it and on it. I am thinking 
 particularly of the two great schemes of the enlargement of 
 the dockyards, and of the construction of fortifications. There, 
 in each case, the plans were long and carefully considered. 
 Total estimates of the work were made, and further, revision 
 of plans has not been prevented. Certainly this plan did not 
 result in either case in the wanton expenditure on the one 
 hand, or in narrowness of aim upon the other, nor in spite of the 
 immense advance in the construction of ships and guns since the 
 decisions in these two cases were made has the completed work 
 fallen short of present requirements. Of course I do not mean 
 that the plans of ships should form the subject of such consider- 
 ation, but rather that the outlines of ordinar}' expenditure, and of 
 the requisite force to be kept up for service in peace, and for war 
 reserves should be stated on such good authority as to remove 
 those subjects from disturbance by party contest. A plan of this 
 sort would confer a lasting benefit on the navy. A royal com- 
 mission appointed with this object would do as much good as a 
 royal commission on the ' state of the navy ' — by the encourage- 
 ment which its very name would give to indefinite complaints and 
 indefinite aims — would do harm. 
 
 " I intended writing to you, however, not about naval afiairs,
 
 122 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 but to give you some of my impressions of things colonial. I am 
 first of all delighted with Trollope's great accuracy of impression 
 and honesty in conveying it ; in New Zealand he is especially 
 free from partialities, and his appreciations are wonderfully just. 
 New Zealand seems to me to have a great advantage socially, 
 more than politically even, in the provincial system. The ten- 
 dency of that system, as well as of the geographical features of 
 the country, will be to diffuse and break up the centre of popula- 
 tion, and to prevent the existence of any overgi'own capital which 
 may some day domineer over the country here or in Victoria, and 
 divide society, as it is divided, for instance, in the great pastoral 
 countries on the River Plate into Portaws and Estancieros. The 
 great danger attending such a division here being that such a 
 division would to a certain extent represent labour and capital, 
 the wool-growers being constantly in the hands of the merchants 
 and bankers. In one thing, however, I think Trollope wrong, 
 that is his insisting on the necessity of separation from the 
 mother country. If there be one thing on which people here 
 do agree, it is in the untrustworthiness of public men, and the 
 low state of public morality. The contests (political) seem to be 
 entirely personal, and there seems to be no division into parties 
 at present. 
 
 " Generally one feels very much as one did in most towns of 
 the United States, that with an abundance of social good-nature 
 there is a lack of culture, and a dearth of subjects of general in- 
 terest, especially among the colonial born. I should fear that 
 another twenty years will sensibly lower the highest grade of 
 both the social and political tone, while perhaps the lowest may 
 be raised. 
 
 " The colonial born population is to the immigrant as six to 
 four, and the proportion of highly educated immigrants is smaller 
 than formerly, and though the public schools (equal to English na- 
 tional schools) are excellent, the attendance and instruction at 
 private and grammar (equal to English public) schools, is of course 
 very poor as yet. The young Australian is certainly rough, forward,
 
 Chap. VI.] SYDNEY. 12 
 
 o 
 
 and self-sufficient, and this being the case I was surprised at the 
 amount of discipUne maintained in the pubhc school which I 
 visited the other day, and I suppose one must put the blame on 
 the home discipline. Those who take an interest in popular 
 education tell me that the countenance given to denominational 
 schools by the present regulations will certainly be withheld in the 
 next year or two. The moving causes being— firstly, fear of the 
 Roman Catholics and their ceaseless activity, which gives them a 
 share of aid beyond their present numerical proportion ; and, 
 secondly, the fact that the undenominational are incontestably the 
 best. I find that many of the Church of England clergy (who are 
 decidedly evangelical) combine with nonconformists in preferring 
 the undenominational school ; these latter allowing an hour to 
 religious instruction per day, viz., 9 to lo a.m. 
 
 " I am bound to say that the great impression produced upon 
 my mind after seeing a little of this colony, and these colonies, is 
 a feeling of intense pride at what has been achieved by English- 
 men, and of pleasure at the sight of so much physical well-being 
 and independence of character — with less ostentation in our class, 
 and far less independence of manner (in the bad sense) among 
 the other, than I had expected. The town is very like a bit of 
 Endand, The houses are much after the fashion of Norwood, 
 with verandahs added. The streets and shops very much in the 
 style of Liverpool. But there is no squalidly poor quarter, no 
 section born and bred in poverty, and poverty seems chiefly the 
 result of extreme vice or extreme misfortune.' 
 
 The Commodore sailed for Melbourne in July. He 
 remained there but a short time, calling on his return 
 voyage at Launceston in Tasmania. With Melbourne, and 
 the greatness of its public institutions, he was much im- 
 pressed. The following letters, as well as his journal, show 
 how much he saw to admire in the colony of Victoria : —
 
 124 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 " Port Dalrymplk, Tasmania, August, 1874. 
 
 " I have run in here on my way up from Melbourne and Sydney 
 to send my letters to Europe. It is a change from Melbourne's 
 life and wealth. All is failure here. It reminds me, by its 
 poverty, of Milford and Pembroke, and it would be, but for the 
 trees, the same sort of looking place. I saw no drunken man in 
 Melbourne, here I have seen two ; and the population of the two 
 little villages abreast our anchorage is 300. It is just poverty and 
 misery, added to the bad type they have sprung from — viz., the con- 
 victs. You will be surprised at my having liked Melbourne so much, 
 but you would admire it too. You could not help feeling an 
 enthusiasm for the Englishmen who have settled there, and turned 
 the wild country into a place fit for people to live in, and have so 
 wisely and liberally spent their money. You would admire, too, 
 the perfect order and respect for minor observances which rule in 
 this society, which rules itself more than any other in Australia. 
 I have enjoyed my stay there above everything, and have really 
 felt to be among men who were shaping out a famous country. In 
 England I always supposed it to be rowdy, and that in politics 
 it was as bad as could be; but while I was there a most perplexing 
 thing happened — the Chief Secretary retired from ill health — and 
 here, where government is by person rather than by party, that is 
 far more likely to lead to a difficulty than a defeat ; but after four 
 days, when a new unknown man was to take the post, every one, 
 even the papers, agreed to help him to get on with his work, and 
 this although the retiring Chief Secretary is a man of great honesty 
 and tact, and is really a very great loss indeed. Certainly, politi- 
 cally, Victoria stands much higher than New South Wales or 
 Tasmania." 
 
 " October 2\st, 1874. 
 
 " My visit to Melbourne was a very agreeable one. As some one 
 said, the people received the officers as though they were their long- 
 lost brothers; and it is really magnificent to see the progress which 
 they have made and the liberal use to which they turn their
 
 Chap. VI.] MELBOURNE. 12 
 
 J 
 
 wealth. In Sydney, and in most parts of England, one sees a 
 small, complete building, a town hall, a church, a library finished, 
 dedicated and destined to be too small from the day after it was 
 built — for ever ; but in Melbourne they have in every case had 
 plans laid before them of public gardens, of public buildings 
 €qual to the wants of a great city, and they have then begun by 
 throwing out a great limb of the future completed work — and 
 using it. Their Academy of Arts is the most recent instance. A 
 piece of ground is allotted to it. In the middle of this ground 
 rises a rough, massive, prison-like looking place of black basalt, 
 with a door and no windows. The ground is rudely railed in. 
 But one goes in and finds one of the future series of rooms for 
 exhibition of pictures built and lighted according to proper rules 
 .and proportions. Some day, when their society and funds in- 
 crease, this gallery will be one of several, and there will be an 
 exterior casing of committee and lecture rooms and offices. Then 
 the provision made for cricket grounds, foot ball, &c. ; it is very 
 grand to see how big their views are." 
 
 He returned to Sydney in August, and on September 12th 
 started again for Plji, whither he conveyed Sir Hercules 
 Robinson, Governor of New South Wales, who was going 
 there to decide upon the question of annexation. This 
 measure was determined on soon after the arrival of Sir 
 Hercules Robinson; and on October loth, 1874, Fiji 
 became a British colony. 
 
 The *' Pearl " returned to Sydney on October 24th. On 
 the 26th he was asked to uncover, on the following day, a 
 statue of Captain Cook, which had lately been erected 
 near Sydney, which he consented to do, delivering on that 
 occasion an address which was thus reported in the Sydney 
 Morning Herald.
 
 126 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 \Extract from the '^YTi^YX Morning Herald, October 2Zth,'\ 
 
 ...... After a short speech from the Mayor, he called upon 
 
 Commodore Goodenough to be kind enough to unveil the statue. 
 
 Commodore Goodenough said, *' Ladies and gentlemen, I am 
 exceedingly glad to be able to be present at the invitation of the 
 Mayor of Randwick on such an important occasion as the un- 
 veiling of the first statue raised in these colonies to the memory of 
 Captain Cook. You will, when it is unveiled, see the great navi- 
 gator, fitly looking down over the bay in which he anchored some 
 hundred years ago, and to which he gave the name of Botany, 
 because, as he stated, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had collected 
 such a number of plants on the shores that bounded it, that the 
 name seemed especially fitting." 
 
 The ceremony of lowering the flag which had covered the 
 statue now took place, amid loud applause. 
 
 Commodore Goodenough then said, " Ladies and gentlemen, 
 as you are doubdess aware, on this day, 146 years ago, the great 
 navigator, whose statue has just been uncovered, was born in the 
 small village of Marton, near "Whitby, in Yorkshire. On the 
 2 1 St of February, 1779, Captain Cook met his death at the hands 
 of the natives of a then obscure and just-discovered island of the 
 South Seas. During the short fifty-one years between those two 
 dates, a life was lived, and a character was developed, which has 
 served, and will long serve, as an example for all Englishmen 
 living in both hemispheres. That life was an example of diligence, 
 of industry, and of devotion to duty ; and the character which was 
 then developed was one which shows perseverance, constancy, 
 courage, and generosity. I do not propose to-day to enter into 
 all, or indeed into any of the particulars of the life of the great 
 man whose statue you see before you. There are others here who 
 will be far better able than I am to do so, but as I was asked by 
 the Mayor of this Borough to preside here, as senior oft^iCer com- 
 manding the naval forces on this Station, I cannot help pointing 
 out some of the qualities which I think distinguished this great
 
 Chap. VI.] CAPTAIN COOK. 1 27 
 
 man, and which may be worthy of your imitation. As you may 
 have ascertained, James Cook was not born in circumstances, 
 and did not have an education which was calculated to jDrepare 
 him for the great future which was before him. He was born of 
 humble parentage, and early chose for himself a career which birth 
 and circumstances did not seem to prepare for him. The choice 
 he made was made deliberately, not from boyish fancy, and the 
 result, as shown in his whole career, proved that it was a calm 
 resolution, not the wilfulness of a boy, that led him to follow the 
 sea. He early felt a great inclination for the sea, and at the age 
 of fourteen years, he apprenticed himself on board a collier, which 
 was then trading on the east coast of England, and which was 
 called the ' Free Love.' He continued steadily to follow the 
 profession of a seaman, first as a boy, then as a seaman before the 
 mast, and then as a mate, until at the comparatively mature age 
 of 26 or 27, the year being 1755, an event occurred which gave 
 a direction to his future career, and which showed the decision of 
 character which he possessed. Until that time, to outward ob- 
 servers, Cook showed no particular characteristics. As his 
 biographer has stated — his energy and genius have to be viewed 
 by readers chiefly in the light of his future achievements. We feel 
 certain, however, that until his twenty-seventh year, he was collect- 
 ing and storing in his mind materials for the career which should 
 follow. When he was twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age, w^ar 
 broke out, press gangs were formed, and Cook not being altogether 
 protected in his position as mate of a coUier was in likelihood of 
 being pressed. He was not altogether destitute of friends or un- 
 protected. If he had struggled against fate, had he been pressed, 
 he might have escaped and returned to his friends ; but he boldly 
 took the step which led to fame. He went on board a man-of- 
 war, and in it he so recommended himself to his captain and the 
 officers of the ship, that he rose from before the mast to the posi- 
 tion of a warrant, and then of a commissioned officer. During four- 
 teen years of service he was not idle ; he had studied navigation, 
 Euclid, and read many odds and ends of books that had come in
 
 128 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 his way. So rapid was his success from 1755 to 1762, that he 
 rose to the command of a ship in His Majesty's service, and not 
 only this, but the duties that were intrusted to him were of an 
 exceptional nature. He was called upon to make hydrographical 
 plans and surveys of places on the North American coast. So 
 correct were the results of his work, that when his biography was 
 written, early in the present century, no corrections were found 
 necessary. And the same correctness applied to your own coasts 
 as visited by Captain Cook, for his surveys are even now to be 
 relied upon, and the names which he has given are still in most 
 instances retained. Even the latest gold diggings opened out in 
 Northern Queensland has its })ort on the Endeavour river, so 
 named by Captain Cook after the vessel which he first com- 
 manded on these coasts. From 1762 to 1768 Captain Cook 
 commanded several small vessels in which he prosecuted hydro- 
 graphical surveys. So effective were his services in these respects, 
 that in 1768 Cook was chosen as the most fitting man in England 
 to conduct voyages of discovery in imitation of French vessels 
 which had about that period gone out on such voyages. He was 
 directed to go to the South Seas to examine the islands there, to 
 take observations of the transit of Venus across the sun's disc, 
 and to visit this then unknown continent. From New Zealand 
 he came to the coast of New South Wales. One morning in the 
 month of April he entered a bay which has since been and pro- 
 bably ever will be called " Botany " Bay — a bay, near whose 
 shores we now stand. If we could imagine Captain Cook ever 
 returning to the earth, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to botanise 
 once more on the shores of Botany Bay, with what delight would 
 they look round on this vast assembly which I see before me ; 
 with what intense delight would they look upon the comfortable 
 houses, numerous churches, and noble buildings which everywhere 
 surround us ! Captain Cook, as a man of great humanity, had 
 an intense love for his fellow creatures, and with what feelings 
 would he compare the mud and wattle cottage in which his father 
 lived with the comfortable cottages which every industrious man
 
 Chap. VI.] SYDNEY. 129 
 
 in this colony can obtain for himself with fair labour ! AVith what 
 delight would they contrast the surroundings of Sydney with the 
 squalid districts which we, who have had the opportunities of see- 
 ing them, know to exist in the vicinity of large towns in the 
 mother country. You should consider your condition, and honour 
 the name of the great captain who first brought ships to these 
 shores ! I have already occupied your time too long, and will call 
 upon you in conclusion to thank, with three hearty cheers. Captain 
 Watson, the munificent giver of this first statue to the oreat 
 navigator in these colonies, to the community of which you are 
 members." 
 
 For the next three months the Commodore was occupied 
 with refitting the schooners which are employed in cruisin^- 
 in the South Sea Islands, and remained at Sydney. Early 
 in December he visited the two principal coal-fields of 
 New South Wales, as he was anxious to see for himself the 
 different kinds of coal in its natural state. Of these two 
 visits he gives an account in his journal, and he also 
 mentions them in the following letter : — 
 
 " December 26t/i. 
 
 " We have just spent a very quiet, happy sort of Christmas. 
 It is, as you know, always a period of uncomfortableness on board 
 ship, and I cannot, as you also know, even in my exalted position 
 of Commodore, forget my ships and men. But my men are 
 gradually answering to a quiet helm, and yesterday was one of 
 the best Christmas days I have seen. A French man-of-war was 
 here, and our men asked sixty of theirs to dinner. 
 
 " It has been very hot indeed, and we are beginning to feel the 
 summer ; but the differences from day to day are very great, and 
 after a hot day comes a cold wind. Three days ago the thermo- 
 meter stood at 91° on board till 3.30 p.m., when the wind sud- 
 denly changed and in thirty minutes the thermometer stood at 
 
 K
 
 1 30 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 67°, which feels quite cold. But these changes are not so harmful 
 as those of Madrid or the south of France, because there the cold 
 wind is dry and takes all the moisture off the body which the 
 previous heat has generated. Here the hot wind is very dry 
 indeed and the cold wind is moist. The difference between a 
 dry and wet bulb thermometer is very great, 26° against 5° or 6° 
 in England, and therefore you can reduce the heat of a room 
 directly by using wet lattice, and you get your water very cool in 
 porous jars. 
 
 " It is marvellous to-day to see all the holiday parties out. 
 There is somewhere a residuum of poor people, wretched people, 
 and helpless people, but it is always by some fault or incapacity 
 of their own as far as men are concerned, and I think nearly 
 always so in the case of women. To-day parties of fresh looking, 
 cleanly dressed people, are off in steamers all over the harbour to 
 favourite nooks, or are sitting on the grass on each of the grassy 
 points which stick out into the bay and divide the harbour into 
 coves, like Malta on a gigantic scale, and with the addition of 
 plentiful verdure. It is certainly lovely, and becomes so more 
 and more daily. You would be surprised to see, too, how old 
 some of the trees and even buildings look. The sandstone here 
 is not always very hard, and so the surfaces get early rough and 
 uneven, and creepers run with marvellous rapidity. One walk in 
 the Botanic Gardens, bounded by a curving line of ivied, sand- 
 stone wall, almost touched by an uneven line of old gum trees, has 
 a sentiment about it of loveliness. 
 
 " They have been planted there, forty years ago, in Governor 
 Macquarie's time, but are as large as English elms of seventy 
 years, and when one looks at them shielded by the wall, and sur- 
 rounded by the wreaths of foliage of imported trees and shrubs, I 
 have ^frisson, and I think of the natives and of the kangaroos 
 which once ran about here, and of the unsuccessful attempts to 
 rear and civilise the old inhabitants. If it failed, if the Australians 
 were miserable and low, so low that our people could not tolerate 
 them on any terms and looked on them as mere vermin, more is
 
 Chap. VI.] NEW SOUTH WALES. 131 
 
 the pity, and greater was the trial for us and for them, for cer- 
 tainly low and ferocious instincts have been developed, and cunning 
 and cowardly practices have been resorted to by us to put them 
 out, and so effectually that the present generation don't know 
 them, unless they live in the country away from Sydney. 
 
 " I have been greatly interested by reading a sectional address 
 of Sir G. Campbell's at the Social Science Congress. Isn't it in- 
 teresting to see how those Indian servants, on their return to 
 England, take a broad, clear view of a social question. He went, 
 it is true, miles away from his subject, but showed what was of 
 more use and interest than if he had kept to it — the produce of 
 his study and thought on a disinterested mind removed from class 
 influences of English society. A residence here would do any 
 English politician good, if only that he would get into the habit 
 of believing that in one sense Jack is as good as his master, that 
 he has as good a right to live, to speak, to combine, and indeed 
 to take or leave work, to be industrious or idle, as his master. 
 Hard doctrines for English masters who have and will long keep 
 the dcssus. I have been lately in the coal districts here, and have 
 been greatly interested in the social aspect of the mining country. 
 Here labour meets capital more directly and on more even terms 
 than in any other industry in the colony, and there have been 
 frequent fights. The two parties have at length come to a plat- 
 form, proposed by the men and assented to by the masters, which 
 is perfectly fair, just, and liberal. The masters and men agree to 
 meet and discuss every question on which there can be a differ- 
 ence before further measures are taken. A sliding scale of the 
 price of labour is fi.xed. When coal goes up the miner gets a 
 portion of the advance, when it goes down he loses a portion. 
 And a master — the sole master of one mine assures me that the 
 men's demands have always been just, and that after each fight 
 they have always been conceded. And here labour has the com- 
 mand. I should like those who fear the want of moderation of 
 the mass to know this. The manager of one mine, who is of the 
 old Tory school, struggles and fights with all this, and doesn't 
 
 K 2
 
 132 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 know how to give way gracefully, and his men are dissatisfied and 
 unhappy compared with others, 
 
 " The great want here is comparative bildung. These people, 
 miners and others, all rich and getting rich, have no sufficient 
 example before them of culture or elegance, or of the things which 
 soften life, and their children will grow up without them. It is 
 so in England of course, too; but here it strikes one more because 
 of the rapidly increasing wealth, and also because one sees people 
 starting unweighted by transmitted political and social drawbacks, 
 and one would like to see them rise without a check to one's 
 highest conception of virtue in a perfect society and then re-act 
 on the parent society of England. Ah ! how my kite has flown ! 
 my string will break if I go any higher ; but these speculations, 
 you know, had always an attraction for me, and I burn to know 
 the English people leaders in virtue, in justice, and in charity, and 
 capable of absorbing and transforming other lands and other 
 people into her agents of the highest civilisation." 
 
 About this time the merchants of Sydney entertained 
 the Governor at a banquet, in honour of the annexation of 
 Fiji. Thackombau, King of Fiji, who had just arrived at 
 Sydney, was present with his two sons. In returning 
 thanks for the Navy, Commodore Goodenough made the 
 following speech* : — 
 
 *' By the indulgence of our fellow-countrymen, this toast is 
 everywhere received with warmth and kindness. By your recep- 
 tion of it to-night, we trust that we, the representatives of the 
 Naval Service in this part of the world, retain the place in your 
 regard which we desire to occupy. Though you, gentlemen, in 
 this happy land, far removed from foreign alarms, can only wit- 
 ness an occasional array of mimic warfare, you do not forget that 
 the English Navy is still called upon in various parts of the 
 
 * Sydney Morning Herald, December lotli, 1874.
 
 Chap. VI.] SPEECH. 1 33 
 
 world, to fulfil its duties in actual service before the enemy. 
 When you drink this toast, we feel that you are thinking of us as 
 the representatives of a service, of which you have formed a high 
 ideal, and we remember that we have laid upon us the very diffi- 
 cult task of realising and maintaining the picture which you have 
 drawn in your minds. While thanking you for the honour that 
 you have done us, I think that you are not unmindful of the pre- 
 sence of members of another navy, a navy which is always 
 received with great kindness, and is justly so received in this 
 port ; a navy which has shared our labours during the last twenty 
 years, from the Black Sea to the shores of Japan — a navy whose 
 officers are among the most gallant and loyal gentlemen of 
 France. 
 
 " The flattering attentions with which you receive us, and almost 
 overwhelm us, induce us to hope that we may really be links in a 
 great chain of sympathy which binds the Mother Country to 
 Englishmen in either hemisphere; and if this be so, and if we 
 succeed in fulfilling such an ofiice, may I be allowed to carry the 
 metaphor further, while I suggest that these great communities 
 are in some sort anchors, by which the great vessel of the English 
 state shall be moored and secured in future times of political and 
 social strife. In the course_of my visits to the South Seas I have 
 found that there is a prevailing conviction of British even-handed 
 justice, and I trust, that that being so, the recent acquisition we 
 have made of new territory may be regarded as the fruit of the 
 confidence in that justice, which has prevailed in these islands. 
 It rests with the people of New South Wales especially, who will 
 have connection with these islands, either by family relations, or 
 by commercial relations, to justify the confidence which has 
 hitherto been exhibited. I trust, that throughout the intercourse 
 of the people of the colony with the native races, will justify that 
 confidence. It is not sufficient for the government to exercise 
 its power to secure even-handed justice to both races which are 
 under its sway, but it is also necessary for those who go to Fiji 
 for a time, to have higher interests and desires than those of
 
 134 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 making money, and to endeavour to secure the welfare of the 
 people livmg there. I can bear testimony to the endeavours of 
 the late chief of Fiji to secure the welfare of his fellow-country- 
 men, and you will feel with me that Thakombau is not only the 
 greatest chief, but in becoming the first Fijian subject of the 
 Queen, we may call him the first and best Fijian gentleman. If 
 I may be allowed to say it in his Excellency's presence, he has 
 shown himself unequalled in his management of state affairs, the 
 most generous and the most faithful and the most delicate of 
 all managers of a great public enterprise. I look back with the 
 greatest pleasure and satisfaction to my intercourse with Sir 
 Hercules Robinson. His Excellency has told you of the custom 
 which exists in Fiji of the chief having a Mata-ni-vanua* It 
 will not be necessary for me to ask the services of any such 
 gentleman, for his Excellency, in the most delicate manner, has 
 filled that important office towards myself and Mr. Layard. I 
 thank you for the way in which you have received the toast of the 
 Navy." 
 
 At an earlier hour on the same evening Sir Hercules 
 Robinson jhad thus spoken of the labours of Mr. Layard 
 and Commodore Goodenough in Fiji : — 
 
 " However, on this occasion, I am happy to 
 
 say, it is my pleasing task to dwell more on the merits of others 
 than on my own acts ; and I am very glad to have this oppor- 
 tunity of publicly acknowledging how much the success of my 
 recent mission to Fiji is attributable to the skilful preparaton of 
 the ground by those who preceded me, and the good qualities of 
 those with whom I had to deal. The labours of the late Com- 
 missioners — my friends Commodore Goodenough and Mr. Layard 
 — extending over five months, have not yet, I think, received the 
 appreciation they deserve. . . . To them we are indebted for 
 the very complete information as to Fiji which we now possess. 
 
 * A man to make speeches for him.
 
 ChXp. VI.] FIJI. 135 
 
 . . . They produced a report which, to my mind, displays 
 great abiHty and research. I know it was of the greatest possible 
 help to me in the prosecution of the mission with which I was 
 entrusted, and I am confident that it will be for years to come the 
 text-book to which successful reference can be made by any one 
 requiring information as to the climate, resources, native customs, 
 and past political history of the new colony. Indeed, I can only 
 say that I have often felt ashamed, during the progress of my 
 negociations, of the extent to which I was profiting by the result 
 of the labour of those who preceded me. You, many of you, I 
 dare say, have seen what a good man the Commodore is across 
 country. Well, I felt when I was in Fiji, as if I were riding after 
 him over a stiff countiy, and that he having broken the top rails, 
 I was triumphantly galloping through the gaps." 
 
 The following extract was also written by the Com- 
 modore about this time : — 
 
 " October zist. 
 
 " What you say of the lack of disinterested view is so true. I 
 am afraid that it abounds in England as well as in New South 
 Wales, &c., but I feel pretty sure also that when statesmen echo 
 this interested and selfish sentiment, and say, ' Why should Giles 
 Stiggins in Yorkshire pay for the deficiency of revenue in Fiji, to 
 help out a parcel of English who have chosen to settle there ? ' 
 then they mistake the loud, selfish voices of mere hard-fisted 
 traders for the real desire of the English people. But this Fijian 
 business is quite a thing apart from any notion of extending our 
 power or wealth. It is simply a duty towards a very amiable 
 aboriginal race who cannot protect themselves against the inroads 
 of white planters unless they be helped by our Government. It 
 would be very well if we were to help the unhappy Samoans and 
 Tongans also. The former are plundered in succession by English, 
 Germans, and French, in spite of the remonstrance and friendly
 
 136 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 efforts of every English naval officer who has been there to protect 
 them." 
 
 In January the Commodore left Sydney again for South 
 Australia, stopping first at Portland, in Victoria. At 
 Adelaide he met with the old shipmate of the " Raleigh " 
 and " Calcutta " days, whose letter has already been quoted 
 when speaking of the taking of Canton. 
 
 The following letter to a friend touches upon some of 
 the impressions of that cruise, the particulars of which are 
 fully recounted in the journal : — 
 
 " Spenxer's Gulf, South Australia, 
 " January zyh, 1S75. 
 
 " .... I wish that you were here. You would so 
 thoroughly enjoy the sight of the great prosperity of the commu- 
 nities which have set themselves down here, and you would retain 
 a conviction of the value of our colonies and of the aptitude of 
 the English people for self-government, stronger than any which 
 unbeknownst to me, you may already have. You will, of course, 
 have read Trollope's Australia and Nc7o Zealand, then read 
 Ranken's Australia, and with a little more reading you will be 
 prepared^for Froude's great book, for which I suppose that he is 
 
 now collecting materials but enough of myself, it is 
 
 much more agreeable to talk of these splendid colonies. I am on 
 a little cruise — stealing six weeks between repairing and re-com- 
 missioning the schooners — to see something of South Australia. 
 I have just touched at Portland, a fine bay with good anchorage, 
 on the limits of Victoria, and the first point in Victoria at which 
 colonisation was effected. The brothers Henty first had a whaling 
 station here, then brought some sheep, and at last fought their 
 way across a belt of light poor soil to the Wonnan country, forty 
 miles inland ; nearly the best land in Australia. Portland soon 
 shipped wool, but has now, since a rail was made to Ballarat
 
 Chap. VI.] PORTLAND, VICTORIA. 1 37 
 
 ceased to do so; but there is a pretty pleasant town, with good 
 stone houses, having 3,000 people. In England it would be a 
 village, but here, as the centre of a district, there is a mayor, a 
 town hall, a mechanics' institute, a gaol, a bank, three churches, 
 and a very nice public garden, well kept and well planted. In 
 riding out of the town I asked, ' What sort of a man lives in this 
 cottage and in that ? ' Stone or brick cottages with good garden, 
 paddock, pig, horse or cow and cart. ' That is the baker's, that 
 is the carpenter's, this is mine, sir; I am the tailor,' and the tailor, 
 a Derbyshire man, was riding by me to accompany us to a kangaroo 
 hunt which we got up with the aid of the innkeeper, a man from 
 the Mendip hills, with a fine taste for greyhounds. The shore- 
 going part of our party were made up of these, of the tanner, and 
 the livery-stable keeper — an Irishman with a taste for liver- 
 coloured retrievers. I assure you that the party was a very 
 pleasant one. These men are not rough as you generally suppose 
 in England. There is an independence in their manner, but it is 
 the independence which I value — that of self-respect — not of want 
 of respect of others. Each of these men had come out here pen- 
 niless, sixteen to eighteen years ago, and was hired, the one as a 
 gardener, another as a stable hand, and so on. Each is now 
 independent. One has an inn, and keeps three or four good 
 horses, and two couple of hounds; another has a stable of eighteen 
 stalls and a farm, and so on. And the place is not wdthout its 
 gentry. The brothers Henty each have houses, gardens, green- 
 houses, coach-houses, and pass the summer here. A Mr. Must, 
 the M.P., lives here altogether with his large family, save when he 
 attends Parliament ; and you have the doctor (only one, and he 
 has an idle time), the banker, and the clergy. 
 
 " By the way, Mr. Childers was member for Portland in the 
 Victorian Parliament, and one of the first men I met in the street, 
 a little old chap, who came out under the patronage of the Govern- 
 ment, in a pepper and salt drab coat and anklets, and therefore 
 had less than nothing on his arrival, not even his liberty, recalled 
 the days when he used to canvass for Childers, and showed me
 
 138 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI, 
 
 the particular public-house which showed Childers' colours. ' For 
 you see, sir, I came out here and began as a working man, and 
 now I'm wealthy ; but I always voted for a gentleman to repre- 
 sent me in Parliament.' This little old fellow even is owner of 
 100 acres of good land up country, besides some town lots. He 
 talked to me for half-an-hour, and then went off by coach to his 
 property, spreading abroad reports of my urbanity. I always was 
 a good listener, and find that to listen well is as popular an art as 
 to speak well, when people are already disposed in one's favour. 
 The well-being of little towns like Portland is characteristic of 
 these colonies. There is plenty of land, so the Government re- 
 serves land for townships, and keeps sites for parks, churches, 
 and other public uses. The people themselves soon get together 
 a library and an institute, and in proportion to population books 
 are more read here than in England. This is not surprising. The 
 dregs of the people do not emigrate. Those who do have more 
 enterprise or more knowledge, or both, than the poorest class, 
 and it would be strange if the community were not more intel- 
 ligent, as a whole, than an English population ; as De Tocqueville 
 says of the United States, that there is no country Avhich contains 
 '^ aussi pen de savants d nioiiis a'igjioratits.'" At Launceston, in 
 Tasmania, a town of 1,200 people, I was surprised at the public 
 buildings, &c., and at the size and frequency of the butchers' 
 shops, for every one eats meat three times a day. 
 
 "I finish this, January 27th, at Wallaroo, on the peninsula 
 which you perhaps never heard of, though it is one of the richest 
 copper mines in the world, and has a total population of 19,000. 
 Well, this is a little rough to be sure. It is like a town in South 
 America — in Peru or Chili, Arica for instance. There is not a 
 drop of water but what is caught on the house roofs, and in hard 
 times by distilling at 2)^. a ton. Wages here are never lower than 
 7x. a day, and go as high as 14^'., which is not bad. Tributers, 
 i.e.., men who engage to work out a batch of ore for a certain per 
 centage of the net profits on raising it, get more as a rule, and 
 there is a solitary instance of a man and his mate making ^^500
 
 Chap. VI.] NEW HEBRIDES. 1 39 
 
 in two months, or ;^9 12^. each day for the pair. This was 
 where, having bought the right to work a lode cheap, it turned 
 out of great value. Ores run to 30 per cent. This is better than 
 gold digging." 
 
 The Pearl returned to Sydney in t'ebruary for a few 
 weeks, and early in April the Commodore started for his 
 first cruise to the New Hebrides. Ever since his arrival on 
 the station he had been anxious to visit these islands, and not 
 only to see the islands themselves, but to gain information 
 for himself, and on the spot, with regard to the labour traffic, 
 and to the kidnapping of natives by labour vessels ; but 
 until now he had been so kept by various duties to other 
 parts of the station, that he had been unable to visit the 
 New Hebrides, and this cruise was but a short one, of six 
 weeks' duration, at the end of which time he had again to 
 be at Sydney ; short however as his stay in the islands was 
 at this time, it was full of interest to him. He felt that he 
 was gaining much information that he could only learn for 
 himself on the spot, and he was fully engrossed with a 
 variety of subjects which presented themselves to him — 
 whether the hydrography, the state of the natives, the 
 geology, the botany, or the languages of the islands. 
 
 Of his occupation in the islands about this time, we may 
 quote a letter of the chaplain of the Pearl, which, though 
 already published, gives the impression formed on an eye- 
 witness of this branch of his work : — 
 
 " He had studied every kno^^^l work on Australia and Poly- 
 nesia generally ; he was a man of broad views, and did not allow 
 the opinions of others to bias or prejudice him. Never content 
 with second-hand infoniiation, he read for himself tlie records of
 
 140 COMMODORE GOODENO UGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 former voyages, so that the names of Cook and Flinders, of 
 Dentrecasteaux, and La Pe'rouse were to him well known by- 
 research, not solely as authorities upon which later works were 
 based. The islands had a special charm for the Commodore. 
 Imbued witli the records of early discoveries, admiring Captain 
 Cook as a true pattern of a discoverer, as brave yet prudent, high- 
 minded, accurate, truthful, the Commodore seemed to think it a 
 worthy aim to try and supplement the discoveries of his great 
 predecessor. Life to him was a time for work ; he always wearied 
 of ease, and gaiety, and pleasant times when there was work to be 
 done. One work done, he sought for the next to do, never 
 seeming to think rest possible with work undone. 
 
 " The labour trade occupied much of his attention. Having 
 the responsibility of directing the commanders of the other ships 
 on the station, having to judge of and report on their acts, it was 
 consistent with the thoroughness of his character that he should 
 himself pay a lengthy visit to the South Sea Islands. In April he 
 made a short cruise through the New Hebrides and Banks' Group, 
 examining islands, collecting all information, aiding missionaries, 
 repressing lawlessness, trying to do justice both to traders and 
 natives, making his office a real power felt for good throughout 
 that part of the Pacific. He visited many of the islands, every- 
 where trying to establish friendly relations with the inhabitants. 
 At each place he himself would land first, for he would never 
 allow others to run a risk which he would not share himself; then 
 by giving presents, of which he always had abundance, and by a 
 frank and friendly manner, would establish confidence. Then he 
 would visit their villages, collecting all manner of curiosities, 
 always trying to obtain words of their language. He believed 
 that open dealing would always be successful, and unconscious of 
 a hostile motive himself, he hoped to inspire confidence in the 
 natives of the islands, so that they would be friendly to white 
 people, and that thus in time Polynesia would be safe ground for 
 missionaries, and all who might come with an honest purpose. 
 He never believed there was danger in landing within sight of
 
 Chap. VI.] SYDNEY. 141 
 
 the shii), in a confiding, unsuspicious manner, and so would go, 
 with his boat's crew unarmed, alone or with officers whom from 
 time to time he asked to accompany him. He permitted and 
 encouraged other officers and men to land for shooting or fishing ; 
 in everything trying to establish confidence and friendly feeling." 
 
 He returned to Sydney at the end of May, to leave again 
 in three weeks for Fiji. The following letter was written 
 by the Commodore during this last stay at Sydney : — 
 
 Sydney, ymw loi/i. 
 
 " I wish again, as I often have, and do -wish for that carpet of 
 the Ai-abian Nights, that I might go to you for an hour and refresh 
 myself, with a good talk with you of all things knowable. We are 
 here by no means in the wilds, and have books, papers, and 
 everything else to instruct one as to how the world moves ; but 
 we have not, of course, except by letter, the running comment of 
 our living reviews, to correct our estimate of things that pass, and 
 to give us a close journal of family histories. On the whole, if I 
 had the wishing carpet, I think I should send it to you. It would 
 be so delightful to have you with me for a year. You would 
 delight in many things in these colonies, though some might offend 
 you. In New Zealand I think you would take great pleasure. 
 The great drawback to the future is that the people will gradually 
 work up into tropical regions of Australia, and lose their English 
 character, becoming employers of labour of an inferior race, and 
 then to a certain degree corrupted in their convictions about 
 personal freedom and independence. 
 
 " Fiji is a bad inheritance in this way, but Northern Australia 
 will be worse, and is fast becoming a Natal. The wretched 
 aboriginal natives are being exterminated fast, and will never be 
 able to tell their own inscrutable story ; but another, and a regu- 
 larly apprenticed servile race, will come either from the islands, 
 or from China, to supply a labouring class. Although I have been 
 two years from England I have seen as yet but very little of the
 
 142 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 country, as I have been so continually brought back to Sydney, 
 our head-quarters, by one duty or another, and in the intervals 
 have been constantly in the islands ; but I hope to pay a good 
 visit to Melbourne next year, and to New Zealand during this 
 year. The former is held to be rowdy in England, but this is a 
 great mistake, and public sentiment is more law-abiding, sober, 
 as well as intelligent, in Victoria than elsewhere in these colonies. 
 Adieu ! I go again to Fiji to-morrow to accompany the new 
 Governor, and then to cruise among the Solomon Islands of 
 Mendafia, the old Spaniard ; a perilous sea, but an interesting 
 one,* full of antres vast and picturesque spots. 
 
 " The * just above stands to mean that at that point I had to 
 break off, dress, go to a ball for two hours, and here I am again. 
 If the band didn't jDlay so loud, I shouldn't mind going, for I 
 generally get a talk with some one. It is only 11.30 p.m. now, so 
 that our ball was not a very great dissipation. 
 
 " Have you got dear old again in your neighbourhood ? 
 
 If you come to speech of him, will you tell him that I speak of 
 him with affection. Dear old fellow ! it does one good to think 
 that there is so unselfish and kind a man on earth."
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE LAST CRUISE. 
 
 Before proceeding to relate the events of the last 
 cruise of Commodore Goodenough, a few words of personal 
 description may here find a fitting place. He was a man 
 of middle height, of a spare and nervous frame ; his head 
 generally thrown back, his features sharply defined, with a 
 keen and piercing deep-set eye, and a prominent chin, 
 which spoke of strong determination, and of the iron 
 nerve which he possessed, while the lines of his mouth 
 revealed from time to time the tenderness of his heart. 
 
 Of his character and his abilities the reader will judge 
 by his own letters, and by his doings ; yet a few words 
 may here be said of some of its most marked traits. 
 
 Some of his friends have spoken of his tenderness, his 
 almost womanly power of sympathy ; others, of his force 
 of character and his grasp of mind, of the way in which he 
 seemed to take in the whole range of a subject at a glance. 
 An eminent writer has said of him, that he showed in this 
 sifting and searching age' that the most enquiring and 
 critical mind could be united with the most devout and tender 
 heart. Others, well able to judge, have called him a strong 
 and trusted leader ; a man dauntless, self-sacrificing, and 
 resolute ; watchful, and far-seeing — looking to the future no
 
 144 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 less than to the present of his profession, his constant 
 anxiety being to elevate the religious and intellectual con- 
 dition of the men under his charge, and especially the 
 younger officers, to whom he both felt and acted as a 
 father ; while, again, the strictness, amounting at times to 
 severity, of his discipline, and the uncompromising firm- 
 ness and decision of his actions, which formed so marked 
 a characteristic in him, and which were as clearly seen in 
 his countenance as was the opposite quality of extreme 
 gentleness, cannot be left unnoticed. But perhaps the 
 most strongly-marked features of his character were the 
 loftiness of his aspirations and the disinterestedness of 
 his aims. It was hard to him to understand that men 
 should act from interested motives ; it was impossible 
 to him, when a duty lay before him, even to apprehend 
 whether it would affect him personally ; and it gave him 
 almost physical pain when he was brought face to face with 
 dishonest or self-seeking intentions in anyone with whom 
 he was dealing. He believed in — and he clung to his faith 
 in — truth and honesty, and in human nature ; and this 
 made him singularly impatient of anything approaching 
 scandal, or even gossip ;* and it was this faith that enabled 
 
 * The following letter to the editor of a small colonial newspaper is cha- 
 racteristic : — 
 
 "My dear Sir, — I am much obliged by your note and its enclosures, 
 which I return. I never had any doubt of the genuineness of the documents 
 which you published in your paper. I am anxious, however, to let bygones be 
 forgotten as much as possil)le. I am satisfied that this is good policy as well 
 as good moral precept, and if I may venture to say so to you, who are expert 
 in the matter, it is good journalistic policy too. The public get tired of an old 
 personal controversy, however much a certain class of readers may relish a 
 present or recent scandal, and a battered antagonist becomes at last a hero. I
 
 Chap. VII.] CHARACTER. 145 
 
 him to sec the best side in other men's characters, and to 
 draw out the best points in those he associated with, 
 making them, as has been said by a distinguished man, 
 " feel themselves distinctly the better for his interviews and 
 intercourse." 
 
 And yet, mixed with these great and even stern quali- 
 ties, there was in him, when he was free from the cares or 
 weight of work, a cheerfulness amounting to gaiety, a 
 light-hearted joyousness, which enabled him to derive in- 
 
 am satisfied that the reading public of your colony contains enough intelligent 
 educated men to support a high class of newspaper, in which no trace of per- 
 sonal hostility is seen, and I am satisfied of it, because I have seen it in a 
 smaller community than this. In the paper of which I speak, early and 
 copious 'news,' carefully selected, and judicious reprints, and bold and fair 
 examination of public policy were the chief characteristics. If it were neces- 
 sary to deal with the character of a public man it was done judicially and 
 without passion. But I have already said more than I intended, and will end 
 by offering you for your next miscellaneous column, three extracts from a hook 
 of autographs, to which M. Guizot, M. Thiers, and Prince Bismark had been 
 invited to contribute. M. Guizot wrote ' Ma longue vie m'a appris deux 
 sagesses, I'une de pardonner beaucoup, et I'autre de ne rien oublier ; ' which 
 being shewn to M. Thiers, he added, ' Uu peu d'oubli ne nuit pas a la 
 sincerity du pardon.' Prince Bismark had further added, *J'ai appris dans 
 ma longue vie deux choses, I'une d'oublier beaucoup, et I'autre de me faire 
 pardonner beaucoup.' 
 
 " Which being interpi-eted may be read : — 
 
 "'My long life has taught me to forget nothing, though I may forgive 
 much. ' 
 
 " ' To forget now and then does not lessen the genuineness of the forgive- 
 ness.' 
 
 " ' In my long life I have leamt to forget much, and to seek forgiveness for 
 many things.' 
 
 " But this does not give \!ci& fijiesse of the original, which is entirely French 
 in its neatness and cleverness. Have you seen the speech of Mr. Froudc's, 
 which I enclose ? It seems to me admirable, and worth your attention. I 
 was about sending it to you when I received your note." 
 
 L
 
 146 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 tense pleasure from the smallest things, and which made 
 him enjoy a holiday with a brightness and merriment not 
 surpassed by th^ youngest of his midshipmen. 
 
 It was a rare occurrence for him to speak of his inner 
 life and thoughts, and of his faith ; and therefore, to many 
 who thought they knew him well, the last few days of his 
 life were as a revelation, and they then first learnt what 
 was the secret spring of the life they had admired and 
 revered. 
 
 The Commodore sailed from Sydney in the Pearl 
 on the 14th of June, in order to convey to Fiji the 
 newly- appointed governor. Sir Arthur Gordon. He 
 intended after leaving Fiji to visit the New Hebrides, 
 the Solomon Islands and Duke of York's Island, to 
 stop a short time at Brisbane, and to be back at Sydney 
 in October ! 
 
 The passage to Fiji was a rapid one ; and after a stay 
 of three weeks in the Group, he again sailed westward. 
 On the day before he left Fiji an address w^as presented 
 to him by the settlers of that colony, a duplicate of one 
 which had been presented to Mr. Layard a few weeks 
 before. 
 
 The following is taken from the Fiji Times of July 
 
 14th :— 
 
 "The Pearl left en route for the New Hebrides yesterday. 
 Wherever she may cruise she will carry with her the hearty good 
 wishes of all Europeans in the group, for in the Commodore we 
 universally recognise so many noble attributes of worth, that they 
 have endeared him in the memory of us all. By his action in the 
 matter wc are mainly indebted for annexation, for all his reports
 
 Chap. VII.] FIJI. 147 
 
 to head-quarters bore the unmistakable mark of truthfulness; 
 they contrasted with the prejudicial statements which had been 
 made against the white residents ; and they helped to clear away 
 the many erroneous impressions that had by malice and evil 
 speaking been formed in England of the Fijis. In another 
 column will be found an account of the presentation of an address 
 to him from the colonists, and we unhesitatingly say that never 
 was a more popular movement initiated than the offering of a 
 tribute of respect to Commodore Goodenough. 
 
 "ADDRESS TO COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 " On Monday morning a deputation of gentlemen waited on 
 Commodore Goodenough, on board the Pearl, to present to him a 
 very beautifully illuminated address as an emblem of the respect 
 he was held in, and the services he had so generously rendered to 
 the Europeans resident in the Fijis by so nobly aiding them to 
 achieve annexation with Great Britain. The Commodore has 
 always been our friend, and his quiet and courteous bearing to 
 rich and poor alike, his evident desire to soothe and allay all 
 angr}^ feelings when times were troubled and passions ran high in 
 Levuka, secured for him that prestige that he will carry wherever 
 he may be called upon to again so loyally serve his Queen, and 
 so justly his countrymen. The morning of Monday dawned 
 rather unpropitiously for going off to vessels lying at anchorage, 
 as a stiff wind was blowing from the south, and some heavy 
 rollers rendered the occupancy of a waterman's boat not the most 
 enjoyable pastime in the world. Eleven o'clock was fixed for the 
 meeting of the deputation, and at that hour Messrs. O. Cudlip, 
 Rupert Ryder, G. W. Richardson, H. Hunter, A. ^lartelli, G. L. 
 Griffiths, C. R. Forwood, P. Sullivan, and Dr. Cruickshank met 
 and proceeded to Smith's wharf, where some boats from the Pearl 
 were ready to take them off— a graceful compliment on the part of 
 the Commodore, who, being apprised of their intended visit, had 
 placed a boat's crew at their service. Arrived on board, they 
 
 L 2
 
 148 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 were received by Commodore Goodenough and his officers, and 
 inasmuch as they all enjoyed the pleasure of his friendship already, 
 a cordial recognition ensued. Reverting to the direct cause of 
 the visit, Mr. Cudlip in a few well-chosen observations introduced 
 the deputation, remarking upon the honour they all felt at being 
 chosen to convey the expression of respect and esteem of all their 
 fellow-colonists to the Commodore. It was to them a proud 
 occasion to approach as deputies one who had so significantly 
 proved himself the father of England's youngest colony, as Com- 
 modore Goodenough. 
 
 " Mr. Rupert Ryder read the address and presented it to the 
 Commodore, which contained the following words : — 
 
 " 'To Commodore James G. Goodenough, R.N., commanding 
 Her Majesty's Squadron on the Australian Station. 
 
 " 'Sir, — We, the undersigned, residents in Fiji, beg to express 
 our appreciation of your services while acting as Commissioner in 
 conjunction with ]\Ir. Consul Layard, for the purpose of enquiring 
 into the condition of this country. The happy result of which has 
 been the annexation of these islands to Great Britain, brought 
 about mainly by the firmness, diplomacy, and untiring zeal which 
 you evinced while carrying out the duties of your commission. 
 And we trust that you will be pleased to receive this Address as a 
 recognition by us of services rendered on your part, which very 
 substantially benefit us, and secures to our mother country a pos- 
 session we fervently trust will ere long rank as one of the most 
 valuable of her colonies. Your uniform unvarying kindness and 
 courtesy has won for you the esteem and respect of all. 
 
 " 'Wishing you long life and every happiness, we have the 
 honour to be, sir, your obedient servants,' 
 
 " {Here follozij the signatures.') 
 
 " The Commodore was evidently deeply gratified at this testi- 
 mony to his worth, and replied as follows : — 
 
 " ' Gentlemen,— I thank you very heartily for the kind Address
 
 Chap. VII.] ADDRESS AT LEVUKA. 1 49 
 
 which you present to me. It is most gratifying to receive such an 
 expression of good- will from a body of my fellow country-men. 
 
 " ' In the enquiry which 1 came here to institute, I had the 
 happiness to be associated with an officer whose honour and 
 loyalty will long be remembered here. If, together with him, I 
 have helped to obtain fair consideration for this community, whose 
 character had been greatly misrepresented ; and if, by the cession 
 of this country to Great Britain your interests are advanced, while 
 peace and increase are secured to our native fellow-subjects, I 
 shall look back with satisfaction to our protracted labours here. 
 
 " ' I thank you for your good wishes, and desire for the resi- 
 dents in Fiji, of either race and every rank, the health and 
 happiness which are due to industry and honesty of purpose, to 
 mutual respect and fellow-kindness.' 
 
 " The deputation were then invited to the Commodore's 
 quarters, and about an hour was very pleasantly spent in conver- 
 sation, in which the future of Fiji was very lengthily and pleasantly 
 discussed, the Commodore entering into all our industries and 
 resources, and really by his sound advice so freely and kindly 
 given, he stimulated the planters and merchants to renewed hopes 
 of happy days in store for us. With the interchange of mutua 
 good wishes and an early renewal of companionship with the 
 popular Commodore in Levukan waters, the deputation retired, 
 being conveyed again to shore in the boats considerately placed at 
 their disposal. 
 
 " We must not forget to mention that the Address was another 
 instance of Mr. Klinesmith's beautiful penmanship. The subjects 
 treated on in the heading and bordering were beautiful speci- 
 mens of etching, and display the taste and talent of the artist, 
 whose work elicited warm approbation from the officers who 
 viewed it." 
 
 From Fiji the Pearl proceeded to Rotumah, the New 
 Hebrides, and the Santa Cruz group, full accounts of which 
 islands will be found in the journal. On the i ith of August
 
 150 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 the Commodore landed at Vanikoro, the inhabitants of 
 which island have generally been very unfriendly. He 
 however, met with a very satisfactory reception, which not 
 only pleased him, but strengthened his perhaps too great 
 confidence in native friendliness if only they were ap- 
 proached in a conciliatory manner. 
 
 He had determined not to go to Nukapu, where Bishop 
 Patteson was killed, as he thought the risk too great ; but , 
 he was particularly anxious to communicate with Carlisle/ 
 Bay, as an English man-of-war had, some months before 
 been attacked there ; though he felt that there was a special 
 risk attending the landing at that spot, and he told one of 
 his officers later that before landing he had a feeling that 
 something might occur, and had, therefore, before leaving 
 the ship added a few words to an unfinished letter to his 
 wife, in the event of any accident. He at first intended to 
 go in in the ship, but finding there was not water enough, 
 he left the ship outside the reef and took in only 
 boats. The story of the landing he tells himself in a 
 letter written a few days later, and which is appended 
 to his journal. The natives seemed friendly and invited 
 him and the officers who were with him to come into 
 their houses, then to accompany them to another village. 
 He started to do this, but after 300 yards thought it im- 
 prudent and turned back, ordering everyone to the boats. 
 When all but himself, two officers, and his coxswain 
 were in the boats, a native, four yards from him, shot an 
 arrow which struck him in the left side, and which was 
 immediately followed by a volley of arrows. He shouted 
 " To the boats," and then rushed down, and, amid flights of
 
 Chap. VII.] SANTA CRUZ. 151 
 
 arrows, which wounded five men and himself again slightly 
 in the head, shoved off. 
 
 The ship was about a mile off. In the boat the Commo- 
 dore was very faint from the pain of his wound, which his 
 secretary, Mr. Perry, was sucking ; but he soon revived, 
 and came up the side of the ship briskly, desiring that the 
 wounded should be attended to ; the boats were hoisted 
 up, as he intended to sail at once. But, after his wound 
 had been dressed, and he had ascertained that no provo- 
 cation had been offered by anyone of his party, he 
 thought right to mark his displeasure at this act of 
 treachery by burning the few huts where the outrage had 
 occurred, giving strict orders that no life should be taken 
 or risked, and that blank cartridge should be fired to scare 
 the natives away before the sailors landed. 
 
 This was done, and the Pearl sailed for Mota, to leave 
 orders for other ships before proceeding south, which the 
 surgeon pronounced a necessary precaution for the safety 
 of the wounded. 
 
 The Commodore was at once placed in the sick list, and 
 confined to his bed, except for a short time each day The 
 first two days he slept a great deal. He was cheerful and 
 hopeful, but fully realising and contemplating the danger 
 which he was in, and even the probability of a fatal issue ; 
 and those around him soon observed a settled calm and 
 deliberation in all that he said and did, which seemed to 
 speak of some great step or resolve taken. On the Sunday 
 he desired the chaplain to give thanks publicly at Service 
 that he and others had not been cut off suddenly, but had 
 had time to prepare for death, if death should come — to
 
 152 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 use his own words, " for a deliverance, in the thought of 
 which, he had been led to look more closely into the things 
 which are hereafter." 
 
 On Monday and Tuesday he continued pretty well. On 
 Tuesday he sat up for some time, writing the letter which 
 is given at the end of the journal. In it he speaks of being 
 quite well but for a pain in his back — this was the first sign 
 of the fatal disease While he was writing this letter some 
 one came into the cabin, and he put it down with 
 unfinished sentence — never to resume it again. With tlie 
 exception of signing some despatches two days later, these 
 were the last words written. 
 
 That evening the Commodore became uneasy ; he passed 
 a very restless night, getting no sleep until he had a sooth- 
 ing draught. On the Wednesday morning early the 
 symptoms of tetanus became more marked, and by the 
 middle of the day were undoubted. He had desired, some 
 days before, to be told as soon as any alarming symptoms 
 should occur ; and early on Wednesday afternoon he was 
 told that tetanus had set in. He received the announce- 
 ment in silence, and with perfect calmness, merely asking, 
 after a little while, how long it was likely to last ; and as 
 one or another of his officers came in to see him he told 
 them that he was going to die, adding immediately that he 
 had no fear, but perfect trust in God. The spasms became 
 gradually more frequent and more severe ; but he had, on 
 the whole, a quiet night, his officers watching by him in 
 turns. He occasionally wished to be read to from the 
 Psalms for a short time, but spoke little, and slept between 
 the spasms.
 
 Chap. VII.] ILLNESS. 1 53 
 
 The same thing continued during Thursday morning, 
 except that by this time the suffering was very much more 
 severe, and the exhaustion and oppression in breathing 
 greater. Early in the afternoon he wished for more air, 
 and was helped to the after-cabin ; but becoming very faint, 
 he was assisted back to his bed. He, soon after, said to 
 those who were with him, " I gather from your manner that 
 I am going to die soon ; if so, I should wish to see all the 
 officers, to bid them goodbye." 
 
 They all assembled^and he spoke to them at length, taking 
 an affectionate farewell of each, telling them how he had loved 
 them all, how he had seen in each something worthy to be 
 loved ; and saying a kind and appropriate word of encourage- 
 ment to each one, showing how well he knew their indi- 
 vidual characters. He told them of his happiness in the 
 love of God, of his readiness to die : bidding each one kiss 
 him as a token that no hastiness on his part was unfor- 
 given by them. He then desired to take leave of the 
 ship's company, and insisted on doing so, though it was 
 feared at first that it might hurt him. He said : — " If 
 I can only turn one soul to the love of God, if it were 
 but the youngest boy in the ship, I must do it. Perhaps 
 when they hear it from the lips of a dying man they will 
 believe it." 
 
 He was carried out in his chair, wrapped in blankets, 
 and laid on a bed on the quarter-deck, the ship's company 
 being all around him. He begged the men to smile at 
 him, and not to look sad. He told them that he was 
 dying, and therefore he wished to say goodbye to them. 
 He told them that he had had a very happy life, and now
 
 154 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 God was taking him away before he had any sorrow. He 
 told them how happy he was in the sense of God's love 
 and in the conviction that whatever happened was accord- 
 ing to God's will ; and he exhorted them most earnestly to 
 the love of God, saying, " The love which GOD Himself 
 will give you if you trust Him is very great ; it will guide 
 all your goings and doings." He begged them to 
 and resist- when on shore the temptations to sin, which 
 led them to break their leave and desert. " When you 
 are tempted," he said, " think of the love of God." 
 
 He begged the older men, who had influence over the 
 younger ones, to use it for good ; adding, " Will you do this 
 for my sake .'' " He begged the forgiveness — or rather he took 
 for granted \\\& forgiveness — of any who might feel he had 
 been mistaken in his dealing with them, assuring them that 
 he had always loved his ship's companies, even those among 
 them whom he had punished, for that he had always seen 
 some good even in the greatest offender. " As to those 
 poor natives," he added, " don't think about them and what 
 they have done. It is not worth while ; they couldn't 
 know right from wrong. Perhaps some twenty or thirty 
 years hence, when some good Christian man has settled 
 arhong them and taught them, something may be learnt 
 about it." 
 
 After again speaking of the vastness of God's love, he 
 said, " Before I go back to die, I should like you all to 
 say ' God bless you,' " which they did ; and he then said, 
 " May God Almighty bless you with his exceeding great 
 love, and give you happiness such as he has given me ! " 
 
 He then shook hands with all the petty officers, having a
 
 Chap. VII.] LAST HOURS. 155 
 
 special word for each ; and then — again saying " Good- 
 bye" to all — he was carried back to his cabin. He had 
 spoken for twenty minutes or more ; his voice, which was 
 very weak at first, became quite strong and clear as he 
 went on. On getting back to his bed he said, " Well, I 
 suppose there is nothing more to be done now, but to lie 
 down and die quietly ! " 
 
 He soon fell asleep, and his strength never returned. 
 He had said he thought he should die in three hours, but 
 twenty-four passed before the end came. The spasms 
 became much more violent, but were never as severe as is 
 often the case in tetanus. All through they were much 
 subdued by his immense force of will and self-control, and 
 with the help of sedatives he slept between, and took all 
 the nourishment that was offered to him. But through all, 
 his patience, his faith, his entire acceptance of the stroke as 
 being the will of God, never failed for an instant ; he never 
 complained of the pain ; he was constantly smiling, even 
 during the spasms ; his one theme was the love of God ; 
 and the only complaint that was heard was, that he had no 
 breath left to praise God for all His mercies. He con- 
 stantly asked after the others ; he knew that two of the 
 men, Rayner and Smale, had tetanus, but did not know 
 that Rayner died on the Thursday night. Smale lived till 
 the Saturday morning. 
 
 He had studied the subject of tetanus, and seemed to 
 anticipate greater suffering even than he endured. He also 
 seems to have thought over different phases of approach- 
 ing death, for he said, " If bad words were heard from him^ 
 those with him were to leave him, as it would not be his
 
 156 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 spirit speaking." Also that he had thought that, at the 
 last, some dark picture of his life might rise up before him ; 
 instead of which God would only let him dwell on the 
 words, " With whom is no variableness, neither shadow of 
 turning." These words, he said, were a little window widehr" 
 God had opened to him in Heaven ; and he said to the 
 chaplain, " If in pain I cannot smile, let me see you smile 
 and do you repeat those words." And to these words he 
 always responded with a smile or a word, up to within a 
 very short time of his death. 
 
 At the time that he was very faint on the Thursday 
 afternoon, he was given some brandy and water. When 
 he put it to his lips he looked up with a smile, saying, 
 " Why, this is pure brandy and water. I oughtn't to be 
 faithless at the last." And, turning to the surgeon, he 
 said, "Do you think I ought to drink it.'"' and only took 
 it when begged to do so. The same evening he said to 
 one of those near him, " If the pain gets much worse, do 
 you think it would be a want of faith if I asked for more 
 brandy .? " 
 
 So entirely did he feel himself in God's hands, that he 
 was prepared to accept whatever was sent. He said at one 
 time, " I have often used bad words in my life, but now 
 though the pain is so great, I couldn't use bad words if I 
 wished ; I'm not allowed to. Everything is so smoothed 
 for me — the pain only seems to come when I am able to 
 bear it." 
 
 After the Friday morning he spoke but little, though to 
 the last he responded when directly spoken to. About 
 noon he woke up from a short sleep, looking a little
 
 Chap. VII.] DEATH. 157 
 
 dazed. He said, " I have quite forgotten all about 
 everything." Then, seeing the commander by his side, he 
 turned to him, saying, " Hastings, you will do all that is 
 right ; " and then, having given up all his earthly charge, 
 he dropped back, and took little notice of anything more. 
 
 He died at a quarter past five on Friday afternoon, 
 August 20th,* so quietly and peacefully that the exact 
 
 moment was only perceptible to him who held his pulse. 
 
 * * ♦ * 
 
 The Commodore had given directions that the Pearl 
 should not go on to Sydney without first sending a telegram 
 to announce his death. A boat was therefore sent in to 
 Port Stephens, about ninety miles north of Sydney, on 
 Sunday afternoon, and the news telegraphed ; and on 
 Monday morning, about an hour after the tidings had been 
 received, the Pearl steamed into Sydney harbour, with 
 yards scandalised, and the ensign and broad-pendant 
 flying half mast. 
 
 The news created a profound sensation, and the greatest 
 sympathy and interest were evinced by all classes. In 
 a few hours the following Gazette Extraordinary was 
 published : — 
 
 " Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, 
 2yd August, 1875. 
 
 " His Excellency the Governor, with feelings of deep regret for 
 the public loss sustained, announces to the Colony the death, on 
 Friday, August 20th, from wounds received at Santa Cruz, on the 
 1 2th of the same month, of James G. Goodenough, C.B., C.M.G., 
 Captain and Commodore commanding the Australian Station. 
 
 * In lat. 30° 19' S., long. 156° 55' E. . about 500 miles from Sydney.
 
 158 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 " The funeral procession will move from Milsom's Point, North 
 shore, at three o'clock p.m. to-morrow, August 24th, and his 
 Excellency, with a desire to show every possible respect to the 
 memory of the deceased, directs that the public offices should 
 be closed, and invites the attendance of all officers of the Go- 
 vernment. 
 
 " By his Excellency's command, 
 
 " John Robertson, Colonial Secretary." 
 
 The funeral took place on the following afternoon, 
 Tuesday, August 24th, at St. Leonard's cemetery, on the 
 north shore of Sydney harbour, and was attended by the 
 Governor of New South Wales, the crews of H.M. Ships 
 Pearl, Sappho, and Renard, a large number of volunteers, 
 and several thousands of the inhabitants of Sydney, as 
 well as by his wife and two sons. 
 
 The coffin of the Commodore (which bore the inscrip- 
 tion, " Commodore James Graham Goodenough, died 
 August 20th, 1874, aged 44 years ") was placed on a gun- 
 carriage covered by the Union- Jack, and with his sword, 
 hat, epaulettes, and medals on it ; and was drawn by his 
 galley's crew. The coffins of the two young seamen 
 (neither of whom was more than eighteen years old) were 
 placed side by side on a second gun-carriage. The Com- 
 modore's two little boys followed immediately after the 
 coffins. 
 
 The cemetery is about two miles from the landing-place, 
 and quite in the Bush ; and there the three graves had that 
 morning been dug by a party of marines from the Pearl ; 
 side by side, that of the Commodore being the centre one ;
 
 Chap. VII.] BURIAL. 159 
 
 and there were laid to rest the three sailors who had fallen 
 in the same manner — the Commodore resting in death as 
 he had lived, as he had died, in the midst of his men. 
 
 The following verses, which appeared in the next morn- 
 ing's paper, speak of what was felt by many in that 
 community : — 
 
 IN MEMORIAM. 
 
 Commodore Goodenougii, 
 
 Slowly the long procession moves, with solemn muffled sound, 
 Ere one of England's noblest men is laid in new-world ground. 
 Yea, bear him to the sailor's grave with every mourning rite, — 
 Perished he yet more bravely than hero in the fight ! 
 For, when the utmost yet is done that public grief can show, 
 Not half expressed the deep respect that in each heart must flow. 
 Ah, truly by such holy dead our virgin earth is blest. 
 We pray our sons may worthy be one day by him to rest. 
 
 Another martyr added to the heathen's cruel score. 
 
 One who, within the sailor's heart, Christ's healing mission bore. 
 
 A man of whom, nor yet from whom ne'er one unloving word 
 
 Throughout his pure peace-breathing life by human ears was heard. 
 
 Not long he dwelt among us ; but noble natures spread 
 
 Their influence quickly, and on all their hallowing radiance shed. 
 
 Of those who loved him, who can tell the burden of their cross? 
 
 And those who knew not still must mourn the country's deep-felt loss. 
 
 God of the world. Thy ways are strange ! Thou takest thus the man 
 Whose noble life would seem the most to help in Thy great plan 
 Of good for all Thine erring children — one whose very face 
 Spoke of strong Godward aim, with calm soul-winning grace — 
 A chief who held as holy charge all those beneath his power. 
 Who judged their souls — not mere machines — with the immortal dower 
 Of choice 'twixt right and wrong, and led them on straight for the right, 
 Sparing not self so he might guide by pure example's light. 
 
 And yet, oh Lord, Thou makest bare the place which none can fill. 
 But leavest those for lengthened years who, more than useless, still
 
 l6o COMMODORE COODENOUGH. [Chap. VI I. 
 
 Blight by their evil contact ! No, we cannot see the Why, 
 The Wherefore of Thy work. Earth's shadows dim the mortal eye ; 
 We can but trust tlie all-wise Father, and e'en by that very death 
 Of peace and love — when, Christlike to the end, with ebbing breath, 
 He all forgave his foes — perchance some wakened hearts were blest. 
 Whom their loved Commodore shall watch with joy from his far Rest. 
 August 24. 
 
 The feeling shown on the receipt of the news at Levuka 
 in Fiji, was most marked : not only were shops and places 
 of business closed, but even all the bars were immediately 
 shut up for the rest of the day. A public meeting was 
 called, and numerously attended (the Governor presiding), 
 to express the feeling of the great loss which the colony 
 had sustained, and the sympathy felt by its inhabitants for 
 the death of the Commodore ; and the following message 
 from the Governor (Sir Arthur Gordon) to the Legislative 
 Council was shortly after published in the Fiji Royal 
 Gazette, giving so faithful and so appreciative a description 
 of the Commodore, that it forms a fitting conclusion to 
 these pages : — 
 
 " The Governor is confident that every member of the Legis- 
 lative Council shares the deep sorrow with which his Excellency 
 has received intelligence of the death, on the 20th ultimo, of the 
 late Commodore James Goodenough, C.B., C.M.G., Commanding 
 Her Majesty's Ships on the Australian Station. 
 
 " Gifted with great natural ability, possessing an amount of 
 general culture rare among the members of a profession the 
 arduous duties of which leave little time for acquirements not 
 directly connected with their discharge, and combining in an 
 unusual degree largeness of view and gentleness of disposition 
 with restless energy and force of will, Commodore Goodenough 
 was no ordinary man, and a career of eminent distinction seemed 
 evidently to lie before him.
 
 Chap. VII.] MONUMENT. 1 6 1 
 
 " Although not confounding the labour traffic with the abuses 
 by which it has been sometimes disgraced, Commodore Good- 
 enough had a keen sense of the evils inflicted under colour of it, 
 to which he had himself been a witness, and both felt and ex- 
 pressed the strongest sympathy with the natives of Polynesia. 
 
 " Like Bishop Patteson, he has fallen by the hands of those 
 whom he desired to befriend ; and, like Bishop Patteson, has but 
 too probably been a victim of the sins of other men who have as 
 yet escaped all human punishment. 
 
 " His public services, his intimate connection with the events 
 which led to the assumption of British sovereignty over these 
 islands, and the deep interest he took in the welfare and develop- 
 ment of the new Colony, are known to all ; and the Board, his 
 Excellency has no doubt, will desire to record its sense of the 
 loss which has been sustained by the Colony, by the service of 
 which he was a distinguished ornament, by the British nation, 
 and by the Queen. Those only, however, can fully appreciate 
 the true magnitude of that loss, who, like his Excellency, have 
 had the advantage of Commodore Goodenough's close personal 
 acquaintance, and know by how high a sense of duty both to God 
 and man every act of his public and private life was regulated. 
 " By command, 
 
 " A. E. Havelock, Colonial Secretary. 
 
 "Nasova, September i6t/i, 1875." 
 
 The monument to Commodore Goodenough and his men 
 consists of a freestone base on steps, surmounted by a tall 
 marble cross, over the Commodore's grave, and two smaller 
 crosses, with their names and ages over the seamen's 
 graves. In the centre of the marble cross is carved Santa 
 Cruz, and round its base are the words oftenest on the 
 Commodore's lips during his last hours — "God is Love; " 
 *' With zvJioin is no variableness, neither sJiadow of turning'' 
 
 M
 
 1 62 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 On a marble slab, let into the block of freestone below 
 is the following inscription : — 
 
 HERE SLEEPS 
 
 JAMES GRAHAM GOODENOUGH, 
 
 ROYAL NAVY, C.B., C.M.G., 
 
 CAPTAIN AND COMMODORE 2ND CLASS, 
 
 COMMANDING THE AUSTRALL\N STATION, 
 
 BORN 3RD DECEMBER, 183O, 
 
 AT Guildford, Surrey, 
 
 DIED 2OTH AUGUST, 1875, 
 
 AT SEA, 
 
 ON BOARD HER MAJESTY'S SHIP " PEARL," 
 
 FROM ARROW WOUNDS 
 
 RECEIVED ON I2TH AUGUST OF THE SAME YEAR, 
 
 AT Carlisle Bay, in the island of 
 Santa Cruz, 
 
 WHICH HE was visiting 
 for THE purpose OF ESTABLISHING FRIENDLY RELATIONS 
 
 with the natives, 
 
 who, not knowing what they did, killed 
 
 their truest friend. 
 
 he sailed away to die, 
 refusing to allow a single life to be taken 
 in retaliation. 
 
 in his last days 
 
 God was abundantly glorified, 
 
 having revealed himself to his servant in great love. 
 
 his death was a triumphant victory. 
 
 on either side of him 
 
 RESTS 
 
 A Seaman 
 
 WHO DIED IN THE SAME MANNER. 
 
 ERECTED BY 
 
 HIS WIFE 
 
 AND 
 
 THE OFFICERS AND CREW OF 
 
 H.M.S. "Pkarl."
 
 Chap. VII. CONCLUSION. 1 63 
 
 Of the feeling and sympathy shown in England on the 
 receipt of this sad intelligence, it is scarcely necessary to 
 speak. 
 
 The public prints contained many testimonies to the 
 elevation of his character, and to the variedness of his 
 abilities ; his friends and brother officers bore witness to 
 his genial and loving disposition ; while from many pulpits 
 his consistent life and happy death were commented upon. 
 The Dean of Westminster made them the theme of his 
 sermon in the Abbey on All Saints' Day, concluding 
 with the following words : — 
 
 " He rests far away, with other gallant sailors, in the burial- 
 ground of Sydney, in Australia. But he, though dead and far 
 away, yet speaks to us here. He tells us by his life what a happy 
 and glorious thing is a good and Christian service of our country 
 and our fellow creatures. He tells us in his death that it was the 
 great love of God that sustained him in that happy life, and in 
 that agonising but triumphant death. Englishmen! — young 
 Englishmen ! — soldiers ! sailors ! — yet not soldiers nor sailors, nor 
 young men only — take courage from his example. A\'hen you are 
 tempted to think goodness a dream, or the love of the Almighty 
 a fable, when you are tempted to think lightly of sin, or to waste 
 your time and health in frivolous idleness or foolish vices, or to 
 despair of leading an upright, pure, and Christian life — remember 
 Commodore Goodenough ; and remember how in him self was 
 absorbed in duty, and duty was transfigured into happiness, and 
 death was swallowed up in victory." 
 
 M 2
 
 JOURNAL.
 
 INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 
 
 The journal, from which these extracts are taken, 
 was written without any expressed intention of 
 pubHcation, but it has been thought that, under 
 existing circumstances, it may be of interest to 
 many, and perhaps of use to some. It has been 
 reproduced exactly as it was originally written, often 
 at the end of a long and fatiguing day, and it was 
 probably never read over again by the writer ; and 
 this will account for occasional negligences of style 
 which may appear ; but it has been thought better 
 to leave it untouched rather than to make any 
 alterations, however slight. In a few instances it 
 has been a little added to by extracts from the 
 writer's private letters. 
 
 All allusions to the politics of Fiji, to the enquiry 
 which Commodore Goodenough and Mr. Layard
 
 1 68 INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 
 
 made in those islands, and to the annexation of 
 that colony, have, for obvious reasons, been omitted. 
 
 With regard to the remarks concerning the forma- 
 tion of the coral islands, it may be said that they 
 are those of a practical observer, and not of an 
 adept or of a student, the Commodore never having 
 specially studied the subject until he found himself 
 amono- the islands. 
 
 V. H. G.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE OUTWARD VOYAGE — PERTH — WELLINGTON. 
 
 May 22nd, 1873. — Went on board the Pearl at 8.30 ; hoisted 
 the pendant at 9 ; men joined ; 10.30 reported the ship to the 
 admiral ; 1 2 went to dinner, all hands having been stationed ; 
 1. 1 5 fell in by watches, and then to quarters. 
 
 • • • • > • . 
 
 Jtme 2nd. — Came out of harbour. Got powder and swung 
 ship for deviation of compasses. 
 
 y?/;/^ 3;-</.— Went on six hours' run — 97 knots; taut bieti que 
 mal. 
 
 June ^th. — Inspection by Sir Rodney Munday. 
 
 • *••••• 
 
 June nth. — Weighed at about 11 a.m. with the whole ebb tide 
 down to St. Alban's Head. 
 
 • ••••• • 
 
 June \()th. — Saw Cape Rocca lights, and came up to Lisbon 
 at 8.15. 
 Jime 2\st. — At 9.30 A.M. weighed and steamed out. 
 
 ■ •••••• 
 
 July nth. — Crossed the equator at twenty minutes before 
 noon ; current sixty-six miles in twenty-four hours to the westward. 
 1 gave the people word to bring Neptune on board, and at 8 we 
 had the whole thing as in old days — just as in the Colling^vood 
 in 1844. Hands turned up to trim sail. Bugle sounded " still," 
 and ship hailed from jibboom and cross jack yard backed ; and 
 aft they came on a gun limber. Neptune gave me a fish, a skip-
 
 1 70 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 jack, and announced his intention of coming on board. Down 
 came the water, and astern went a blazing cask — a good clapping 
 of hands and all was over in good humour. Poop not respected 
 as far as water went. 
 
 July \2tJ1. — Neptune came on board at half-past nine, and 
 very good tempered fun it was. There was no malice anywhere, 
 and plenty of laughing and play. 
 
 July j^t/i. — Saw some very large Portuguese men-of-war, 
 '■'■HolotJmria Physalis" and heaps of flying fish and skipjack. Perry 
 caught a good many lovely creatures in his bag net. Salpa, and 
 a spider, and several shrimps, red and blue, and other colours. 
 
 August 1st. — Perry got last night some lovely Hyalaa, three 
 quarters of an inch long, also a Thalassi Colla \vith spicules. A 
 beautiful Medusa with deep colour, and a round, gelatinous ball with 
 short hairs. There have now been six sorts of birds about the 
 ship, viz., white albatross, black ditto, Cape pigeon. Cape hen, 
 black with white breast, petrel all black, and petrel grey with white 
 breast. 
 
 August 2nd. — Saw a new bird about as big as the large black 
 petrel, handsomely marked on the under side of the wing ; this, 
 with a little bird seen yesterday, makes eight birds — yesterday's 
 bird is a little silver grey, lovely, lively little creature. 
 
 August Zth. — Perry dredged a quantity of salpa, exactly as 
 described by Huxley, some little fish, and some lovely blue 
 crustaceans, as active as possible. In most of these creatures the 
 exquisite blue transparent colour predominates : passed pieces of 
 large cuttle or Medusrc, being a sign of the warm current running 
 to the northward, which has swept us thirty-six miles in twenty- 
 four hours to the northward — sixty miles to the westward. 
 
 August lofli. — Lifted the screw after evening church; ship 
 sixty-nine miles from the Cape at 8; wind increasing. She went 
 1 2 '5 knots at midnight. 
 
 August i\t/i.- — At 4 A.M. it blew very hard indeed, thick and 
 with much lightning; at 6.45 we saw land — the Cape. Passed
 
 Chap. I.] CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. I 7 1 
 
 about 10 A.M. between the Cape and Anvil Rock, making signal 
 to the lighthouse, " Report me in Simon's Town, in want of fresh 
 provisions and coal," all of which was taken in. Found a strong 
 breeze out of the bay and took in top-gallant sails and two reefs 
 again, jib and spanker ; the squalls very violent ; made seven 
 tacks ; making the last tack under the battery the ship came up 
 three points in stays and shot into four fathoms ; I thought for a 
 moment that she was going to touch, and suspect that her bows 
 were in twenty-one feet. It was a capital thing to begin with, this 
 beating up. I enjoyed it like a day's hunting. Just after coming 
 to an anchor, at least at five o'clock, there was an immense fall of 
 hail, the most ever known here in recent memory, as big as small 
 marbles ; singularly heavy too. 
 
 August i6t/i. — Weighed with a nice breeze at N.N.W. Saw 
 the Cape light as far as thirty-five miles ; rolling heavily ; wind 
 right aft. 
 
 August i']t/i. — She gave so heavy a roll as to upset my large 
 table in the fore cabin ; the bottom of the starboard cutter touched 
 the water; the ship must have rolled 35°. The sea went down 
 gradually, and by 4 p.m. till 8 p.m. was extraordinarily smooth ; 
 then it began again, and at 9,30, as I was putting in the stern 
 ports, a big sea came and washed me out completely. These 
 seem to have been the edges of the Agulhas stream. The tem- 
 perature of the sea water, which was 56-|-°in Simon's Bay, was 63° 
 at noon here ; lat. 36-i5 S., long. 21 '12 E. 
 
 August iZt/i. — Sea water at 8.63° and a good sea ; by noon sea 
 water 58° and sea smooth; at 1.30 myriads of ice birds. The 
 demarcation of temperature exactly agrees with that shown in 
 Toynbee's paper in the Geographical Society's journal (1866, I 
 think), and again this morning when it rose from 58° to 64°. A 
 troubled sea at each edge, and this morning at 2. nearly a dead 
 calm. 
 
 August 19///. — Towards evening we came across another streak 
 of cold water, just as Toynbee places it.
 
 1 72 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 August 20th. — A new bird came yesterday, a pretty little 
 swallow-looking thing, tripping on the water — black, with a white 
 band across the rump. 
 
 Perry caught a shrimp x\ inches long, transparent, and a lovely 
 Myalcea with a red line through his body ; the shrimp had large 
 green eyes; also z. Janthina exigua ; water 62°. 
 
 See page 392, vol iv., oi Burueys Voyage, for Dampier's descrip- 
 tion of my swallow, which is the very stormy petrel. " It pats the 
 water with its feet." 
 
 August 22Jid. — When reefing, at ii p.m., great pieces of phos- 
 phorescent matter flew in the spray over the ship, and the water 
 occasionally had great splotches of these animalcules. 
 
 Augiist 29///. — At 8 P.M. Amsterdam Island, eighty-two miles 
 off. 
 
 August 30///. — Up at 4, when the ship had run sixty-four 
 miles ; directly I came on deck, sure enough there was Amsterdam 
 Island two points on the starboard bow ; altered course for it. 
 Got the screw down and jogged along to windward. Wind 
 W.S.W. (compass) on land from S.E. to S.S.E. At 6 a.m. it 
 was daylight, and we were three or four miles from the nearest 
 point, and ran down to within half-a-mile of the cliffs, which are 
 evidently entirely of basalt, save at the point marked B in 
 D'Entrecasteaux's chart, which looks to be of a dark dull red 
 earth. The highest cliffs must have been 800 feet from the water, 
 sheer and perpendicular. Both the top of rock B, and the highest 
 part of the island, were curiously pinnacled, by the destruction of 
 the softer parts of the rock, and the weathering of the remainder. 
 Multitudes of birds hovered and were perched on a spot on the 
 edge of the cliff. As we came round I saw a dead fish, and a 
 Cape hen and pigeons, mollymocks and albatross, and a hand- 
 some gull, like a small albatross, diving and pecking at it. From 
 B onwards the S.S.W. face of the cliff, forty feet high or so of 
 black basalt, glittered in the morning light, covered by incessant 
 spray, which did not permit lichen or grass to grow, and no doubt 
 broke the cliff away continually. The spray and vapour from the
 
 Chap. I.] AMSTERDAM ISLAND. I ']i 
 
 air, coming from the warmer ocean, covered the land which 
 sloped up from the cliff to the summit with clouds of vapour, which 
 I strongly suspect are,the origin of D'Entrecasteaux's fires. Drawing 
 round from the S.S.W. to the S.S.E. face, the cliff was not so per- 
 pendicular, and more grass-covered. Some water oozed from 
 crevices, and a strip of vegetation showed the weep of water 
 here and there. Over the S.E. point appeared at last a tree, bent 
 at right angles by the wind ; and on the east face the same trees 
 showed in several hollows, and the grass which we had seen before 
 to cover the slopes became more tussocky. On the E.N.E. face 
 are some patches of red — veins of pozzuolana, I suppose. We 
 had been half a mile off all this time, but here were about three- 
 quarters, and I got a sounding in 1 20 fathoms — black sand. At 8.45 
 another cast in fifty-eight fathoms, shells and black sand. I went 
 to get a mouthful of breakfast while we turned round a patch of 
 kelp off the N.E. point, and had hardly drank a cup of coffee 
 when a hut was seen above a beach which sloped to the water's 
 edge. I at once had boats prepared and turned round to land 
 under cover of the reef, where the surf seemed to break less. At 
 about 10. I took the whaler in with Sub-Lieutenant Elwyn, and 
 the cutter with Lieutenant Reade, and anchoring her outside the 
 swell, took the end of a grass line over the whaler's stern and 
 pulled in to the rocks, just where, at a fault in the strata, some 
 loose lumps of basalt, rounded by the action of the sea, formed a 
 steep, rough slope. The grass rope answered admirably. The 
 boat could be checked to an inch of where it was wanted to place 
 her. I went first and leapt out with my cane and then hauled her 
 off, and presently she came in and landed Elwyn. We scrambled 
 up and found at the top, to my surprise, a cabbage garden full of 
 plants, growing rankly by the side of the stems of the flowers and 
 seeds of last year. We pushed on near the shore, and after a 
 third of a mile came to a little cleared spot, which seemed to be 
 levelled as if to build a house or plant a garden. Here were the 
 bones of a goat or buck or sheep together, as though the beast 
 had died there, pieces of a white plate with a blue edge, and on a
 
 1 74 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 couple of sticks a lot of grass laid to dry. Elwyn thought that 
 this was a grave, and, indeed, it looked like a moral of a South 
 Sea island. But we turned it over and found hard ground under- 
 neath, and went on through high, tussocky grass, growing between 
 masses of scoria, and occasionally over hard ribs of basalt, with 
 the ridges in which it had cooled most strongly marked. The 
 walking was hard work, and we did not get on fast, but at last saw 
 the hut and flagstaff close to it. A well-worn path from the hut to 
 the water-butt, some ten yards off, led to the hut. I was prepared 
 to see something inside ; I did not know what, but perhaps a 
 skeleton. An upset pigeon-house, some baricoes, and some 
 branches of trees lay around. The door was gone and I walked 
 in, but it was deserted. It was well built, about 30 feet long and 
 14 feet wide, surrounded by a wall of pieces of tufa, cemented 
 with a sort of pozzuolana, and 4 feet 3 inches high, on which was 
 a good roof, well thatched, made with rafters of trees. The door 
 and window frames were well made. Through the door one 
 walked into a central room about 1 2 feet by 1 4 feet, and there 
 remained the frames of partitions cutting off a sleeping-room about 
 8 feet by 1 2 feet on each side. In each of these was the truck of 
 a bed and some bedding rolled up on each. By each bed was a 
 trunk, and while Elwyn looked at that on the left, I turned over 
 the one on the right, or to the north. My box was half full of 
 educational books (French), history, arithmetic, religious ; and all 
 had the name of either Eugenie Clochard or Melina Clochard. 
 In my box was no MSS. In Elwyn's box was a nondescript col- 
 lection. Two large round white French dishes, some covers of 
 vegetable dishes, the button of a woman's brown velvet jacket, 
 the Mysteries of Paris, and one or two other romances. Some 
 MSS. papers — one a receipt given by one Hubourg, on 3rd 
 February, 1868, to M. Jacques Bastide; another, a diary in pencil 
 from 27th December, 1870, to 19th January, 1871, Thursday, 
 when it ends abruptly, after giving the date. 
 
 This is loose, thin paper, and begins at head of page : —
 
 Chap. I.] AMSTERDAM ISLAND. 1 75 
 
 Le Mardi, 27 Decembre, 1870. 
 Plantations et Cemis de differentes graines auprt-s de la Case. 
 
 Le 2 Janvier, 1871. 
 
 Cemis de choux de Chine, clioux rave, Chicoree, Radis, Celerie, Manioc, 
 
 Pomme de tene, Pistaches, Haricots, Fleureyonne, Framboises, Patol, 
 
 Voem. 
 
 Mardi, le 3 Janvier, 1871. 
 Plantations, figues et Jem-jam. 
 
 Mercredi, 4 Janvier, 1870 (sic). 
 Semance de Mars pour planter. 
 
 Jeudi, 5 Janvier, 1871. 
 
 Balisage pour le feu. 
 
 Pleine lune. 
 
 Vendredi, 6 Janvier, 1871. 
 Balisage pour le feu. 
 
 Samedi, 7 Janvier. 
 Balisage pour le feu. 
 
 Dimanche, le 8 Janvier. 
 
 Lundi, 9 Janvier. 
 Une case de pigeons, et refermer les cochons. 
 
 Mardi, 10 Janvier. 
 Achevement du balisage du feu. 
 
 Mercredi, II Janvier. 
 Cliasse aux cabris et recherche de bois. 
 
 Vendredi, 12 Janvier. 
 
 Escurtion pour I'eau trouvee en deux endroits, et plantations Cambards, 
 
 Citrouilles, Cabbasse, et Safrans. 
 
 Samedi, 14 Janvier. 
 
 Plantation de mais et commencement d'un puits pour I'eau. 
 
 &c., &c., &c. 
 
 In one of the printed books was written the name of a French 
 woman, He de Maurice, and under it "partie pour Madagascar." 
 Underneath the bed was an old gun unstocked, of Frencli make, 
 double-barrelled and muzzle-loading, a pair of old boots, some
 
 176 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 wooden flat pattens, and on the bed a couple of those travelling 
 chairs. 
 
 I remember no more, but that opposite the door was a board, 
 and a goat-skin, and some other wraps. The floor was just hard 
 earth, and though all was damp, the papers were not much 
 injured, and the roof seemed sound. Near and about the house 
 were marks of hoofs of cattle, and a fresh one of a calf or heifer, 
 and many of sheep or goats. A footmark of a full-grown bullock 
 or cow, and quite fresh, was down on the cabbage-bed. 
 
 The flag-staff was nearly north from the hut, and just west of 
 this was a long deep reft in the rock, about twelve or fifteen feet 
 wide, and ten feet deep. This had evidently been used as lately 
 as the hut ; a screen of wattle barred the S.S.W. end up the hill. 
 On a ledge was an appearance as if it had been used for a sleeping 
 place. A lot of fowls' feathers lay about, a lot of goats' or sheep's 
 hair or wool all wetted and matted, a quantity of limpet shells, 
 and some small crabs' legs and claws. I left a notice of our visit 
 in a soda-water bottle, and came away by rather a higher way 
 back, which was proportionately more rugged, fatiguing, and 
 difficult. The boat came in as before, and we both got in, 
 with no more than getting wet by spray and a green sea over our 
 ankles, and gathering some cabbages, some branches of trees, and 
 I carrying a fern which I found in the cavern. The ship had 
 moved about, and got soundings on a bank on which one might 
 anchor, from thirteen to seventeen fathoms. Leave was given to 
 fish, and the boatswain hauled up six fish of eight or nine pounds 
 each. Olive got one of thirty-six pounds — a rock cod. The 
 men and officers got thirty fish in two hours and a-half, though 
 the ship was continually moving : — 
 
 Rock cod, 9lbs. to 3olbs. — a splendid and excellent fish — an 
 angel fish ? 
 
 A blue rock fish, 2olbs. to 2 5lbs. 
 
 A fish with pointed nose, with greenish yellow bars longitudi- 
 nally. 
 
 One of the men hauled a great big fish to the top of the water,
 
 Chap I.] AMSTERDAM ISLAND. 1 77 
 
 and then lost him. The fish lay stupid for a few moments, and 
 the man went in after him from the bowsprit, on all fours like a 
 Newfoundland dog, laid hold of him in his arms, and called for a 
 line and hook to haul him up by ; but meantime the fish recovered 
 himself, and swam away, the man struggling with him in the water 
 all the time. I got on board at 12.15. Boats up, and made 
 sail from the island at 1.15 p.m. 
 
 What is the deduction to be made from all this ? My 
 orders ran to examine the island and see whether any one 
 was on it. An explanatory letter accompanied the orders. It 
 was from G. Sohier, of Nantes, Loire Infe'rieure, to Messrs. Houlder 
 Bros., of Leadenhall Street, dated March loth, 1873, ^.nd con- 
 taining an extract from Gaiigna/ii, of March, 5, 1873, copied 
 from the Melbourne Argus (no date) saying that Mr. F. R. Lee, 
 R.A., had arrived in Melbourne from England, July 20, 1872. 
 He had passed by Amsterdam Island, and found it impossible to 
 land on account of the heavy surf. While cruising close to the 
 island strange sounds were heard, as if proceeding from a fog- 
 horn or speaking trumpet, and it was Mr. Lee's opinion that there 
 were people on the island, though all the efforts to discover 
 them or bring them within observation were vain. Mr. Sohier 
 suggests that these supposed people were people wrecked from the 
 *' City of Sydney" — whence or whither I know not — and that his 
 brother, M. Philemon Sohier, and family might be of the number. 
 
 Whether any persons were ever cast away or no, it is quite clear 
 that no person was there at the time that Mr. Lee passed, for they 
 must have been cabbage-eating people, and would certainly have 
 cut down the cabbages which I found in seed. Whoever used the 
 hut last certainly used it and left it with the impression that they 
 would return. The bedding was rolled up, and the books and 
 china were all stowed in the boxes, with saucepans and gridirons, 
 ready to be taken away or to remain secure. 
 
 The idea of hearing voices, or a fog-horn, or speaking trumpet 
 behind the surf is not possible. One would hear neither fog-horn 
 nor speaking trumpet if a steam-whistle were nearer, and one 
 
 N
 
 178 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. L 
 
 would not see a rushlight if it were placed on the further side of a 
 gaslight. The noise was probably that of the surf beating in 
 hollows. The seals make siuh a noise, but I saw none whatever, 
 and doubt there being any in October last. What, then, is the 
 history" of the hut and its contents? Vlaning the Dutchman saw 
 the island and named it in 1696. Dentrecasteaux gives a sketch 
 of it by Valentyn, who was Vlaning's chief officer, and says that 
 Vlaning landed, and could hardly keep the seals off. He was- 
 obliged to lay about him with his musket butted. Horsburg says- 
 that Vlaning anchored in sixteen fathoms black sand on the south 
 of the island. Dentrecasteaux, in 1793, also speaks of the seals 
 swimming in quantities near the ship. Colonel Collins, in his 
 account of the settlement at Port Jackson, Says that a ship, the 
 " Ceres," arrived at Sydney, January 23rd, 1796, with four people 
 on board, two French and two English, who had been for three 
 yeafs on the Island of Amsterdam, had lived on seals' flesh 
 for eighteen months, and had prepared some thousands of skins 
 of seals for merchandise. They had been landed by a brig, 
 which had been taken as a prize by the " Lion," and carried to 
 China. A M. Perron, one of the Frenchmen, was a very intelli- 
 gent person, and had kept a journal, and made sketches of the 
 island. 
 
 As at that time the names had somehow been reversed, and 
 S. Paul's was by some people called Amsterdam, and vice versd^ 
 M. Perron may have been on S. Paul's — he gives no latitude 
 or position to Colonel Collins. M. Labillandiere says: — " Captain 
 Cook's charts have given the name of S. Paul's to the northern^ 
 and Amsterdam to the southern island ; " but I have looked at 
 the general charts prefixed to both Cook's second and third 
 voyages : both give the northern island as Amsterdam, and the 
 southern as S. Paul's. It is therefore certain that M. Perron 
 was on the island of Amsterdam, the north island, or very 
 nearly so. 
 
 The hut is solid, substantial, and well put together ; the roof is 
 well put on. There is hardly a bit of ship's timber in it. A top-
 
 Chap. I.] AMSTERDAM ISLAND. 1 79 
 
 gallant studding-sail, or small topmast studding-sail boom forms 
 the supjDort of the ridge pole at one end, but all the rafters are of 
 the wood of the island. There is not a particle of heavy or square 
 ship's timber about. It could hardly have been built by weakened 
 or distressed men, but rather by men at leisure and with lots of 
 food. As far as appearances go, it might even have been built 
 by M. Perron and his companions, as to its walls. But the most 
 probable is, that the sealing party of Frenchmen who are at S. Paul's 
 sent up here and prepared this for a fishing station, and that this 
 journal was kept by one of them. They might very well have 
 lived in the cave while the hut was preparing, but in any case this 
 must have been prior to December, 1870. It is difficult to 
 account for the bits of women's dress, the girl's school-books, &c., 
 without supposing that people may have taken refuge here from a 
 Avreck or abandoned ship, though it is also possible that the 
 fisherman sent here may have had a vAie and children. It is not 
 likely though, and is more probable that some one has taken 
 refuge. It is also pretty certain that they were taken off over a 
 year, perhaps over two years ago, and that they had time to 
 arrange their traps before leaving. 
 
 Dentrecasteaux's plan was good as far as it went. Hosken 
 filled it up, and got some soundings on the bank, so that a future 
 vessel will know where to anchor and land. I was inclined to 
 doubt Dentrecasteaux's fires, but a passage in the Diary " Le fen 
 dans I'Erbe" set me thinking, and it struck me that in March, 
 the time of Dentrecasteaux's passing, answering to our September, 
 the grass dries up, the under part of the thick tussocky stuff" is 
 damp, and a spontaneous combustion ensues, which burns all the 
 loose grass, and makes a great smoke, but does no harm to the 
 roots, which soon begin to shoot again. I take it that the big 
 trees shown in Valentyn's drawing are a conventional sign for 
 vegetation. There were never trees on the windward side of the 
 island, where he places them, or anywhere but in the hollows. 
 
 September 6th. — Barometer going down continually, the lee 
 
 N 2
 
 I So COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 (starboard) cutter struck the water two or three times. Ship going 
 8.5 knots and 9 in squalls, which were heavy. It was beautiful 
 to see in the afternoon. The colour of the sea where water 
 overlies foam is the most brilliant transparent blue that can be 
 conceived, and has every shade from white to the deep blue of 
 the ocean. 
 
 September ']th. — At 6.30 we were sixty-four miles from Rottnest 
 (West Australia), and it was blowing as hard as ever ; so I deter- 
 mined to heave her to, at all events till sights could be obtained. 
 While furling the foresail and foretopsail, before coming to the 
 wind, she shipped an immense blue sea over the starboard 
 hammock netting. Stanhope was washed from the fore side of 
 the capstan right under the after gun ; two shot were lifted fairly 
 out of the rack, and went backwards and forwards, and tons 
 of water washed freely about. I never saw a worse sea, but it 
 was intensely beautiful ; such a wonder of irresistible strength 
 and majesty, and of such pure and beautiful colour. At 10 a.m. 
 made sail, and kept away for Freemantle under treble-reefed 
 foretopsail, double-reefed main and whole foresail, and reefed main- 
 sail. Circummeridian altitude put me twenty miles to the north, 
 so I hauled to the southward, and set whole mainsail, jib and 
 double-reefed topsails, carrying on a good bit in squalls, and 
 trying to make her go eleven knots. At 4.30 we made the land, 
 and getting round Rottnest just were able to shape our last course 
 with accuracy before it got pitch dark. At 7.30 we got to an 
 anchor off Freemantle, Swan River, West Australia, in not a 
 bad berth, and remained comfortably all night. A good deal of 
 swell on. 
 
 September 2>th. — The harbour-master came on board at 7 a.m. 
 He told me that a ship of 600 tons had dragged her anchors, and 
 was on shore on the Beagle Rock, and that some craft were here 
 with pearl shell, one with forty tons just arrived. They employ 
 Malay divers principall}^ The pilots say that this is one of the 
 worst gales which they have had, and that they have not seen so 
 great a sea as came into the bay. They declare that this ship
 
 Chap. I.] WEST AUSTRALIA. l8l 
 
 could not have been brought up had she come in in the forenoon, 
 and that the sea broke all over the place. It feels quite sum- 
 mery, swallows twittering about the ship. The harbour-master 
 told us that " M'Mahon was out, and that a Bonapartist, a 
 cousin of Jerome's, was in, and they have made him emperor 
 too ! " 
 
 September ^th. — I sailed to the Bar in my gig, and then was 
 taken in tow by the steam pinnace, and at lo a.m. we tried the 
 Bar. Sailing on shore was not comfortable, and I had nearly 
 capsized twice, but going across the Bar was very dangerous 
 indeed. It seems that, when about to cross, the pilot told them in 
 the steam pinnace that it was dangerous, and they hailed me, but 
 I did not hear, and only waved to go on. They went on, and we 
 bumped considerably. Once over, all was right ; each boat 
 shipped a sea, and went on. 
 
 The river itself, with its banks of white gum, red gum, banksia, 
 and black boy, have a pretty variety lent them by the appearance 
 of a patch of grass or of young barley. Perth heaves in sight from 
 the shore, and really strikes one, for the settlement is on the 
 ridge of a low hill, and the town-hall, the Roman Catholic cathe- 
 dral, and an Independent and Wesleyan church strike one as 
 being the sky-line. The town-hall, built by convicts entirely, is a 
 chamber with a handsome roof oijarrah wood, the great stand-by 
 of the colony ; as well as Government House, which is a very 
 handsome building. I went to the club, town-hall, legislative 
 council chamber, barracks, &c. The barracks contain 51 out of 
 the 115 pensioners, and their families. A huge woman, with a 
 huge family, and a rattling tongue (Irish), and then next door a 
 sentimental looking English girl, standing by a window, with hair 
 about her eyes, novel in hand, and finger on lip, dreaming of 
 Prince Florizel, or whoever she was reading of The Speaker of 
 the Legislative Council showed me the breech piece of a bronze 
 gun, an old Dutch pipe, and a bottle, all left by the Dutch ship 
 wrecked on the Abrolhas in 1629, whose men fought so terribly 
 afterwards. Heard of an interesting establishment at New Norcia,
 
 1 82 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 a really prosperous experiment on the natives made by Roman 
 Catholics with an Italian bishop. 
 
 September lo///.— Drove down to Freemantle ; neither steam 
 pinnace or gig had been able to reach the ship last night, and 
 were locked up inside the Bar. 
 
 September iit/i. — Went on shore, and found the pinnace could 
 not get over the Bar, so went to see the prison, and took thence 
 some samples of wood — "raspberry jam," "shea oak," "white 
 gum," " Jarrah," " banksia," " sandal wood" — then drove to Perth, 
 and at nine to the ball. 
 
 September 12th. — Came down at 6 a.m., blowing fresh and 
 raining ; found the harbour-master's coxswain had brought the 
 pinnace through the Bar, shipping a couple of seas. I went off 
 in my gig, which had nearly capsized coming on shore under sail, 
 and was towed by the steam pinnace to the ship, leaping out of water 
 all the way. At i p.m. we weighed under steam, and went out of 
 the Southern Passage with a pilot. Very heavy sea indeed ; the 
 pilot first would, and then wouldn't, take her out under sail, 
 because the marks were off the Hall bank, 
 
 September \'^th. — Made sail at 8 a.m., soon getting a fair breeze. 
 
 September \6t/i. — Puffins with white head and pink bill, and 
 with grey head and black bill, one whale bird, Cape pigeons. Cape 
 hens, black petrels, an albatross, and a single white puffin with a 
 black feather here and there under the breast. 
 
 September 21st. — At 8 a.m. saw De Witt Mountain (Tasmania). 
 At noon we saw the "Mewstone" ahead, covered with puffins. 
 The land fine and bold apparently, patches of snow lying high up 
 on the hills. Hills grey and dull in misty rain. A slope of grey 
 green here and there. The shapes of the hills noble, and the 
 ends of Matsuyken's Island pinnacled. Passed the Mewstone at 
 5.3 saw Bruny Island light at 7.30 p.m., twenty-three miles off; 
 the intervals nearer i min. 30 sec. than i min. 40 sec. It shows 
 bright for one minute, and then dull or out, but should show bright 
 50 sees., and dull or out 50 sees. Passed the Friars at 11 p.m., 
 and saw a big fire on shore on Tasman Peninsula at 4.30 a.m.
 
 Chap. I.] i\EW ZEALAND. 183 
 
 The temperature of the sea- water rose directly after getting clear 
 of the land from 49° to 54°3o'. 
 
 September 27///. — Saw Cape Farewell, (the north-west point of 
 the Middle Island, New Zealand,) or land, about twelve or four- 
 teen miles off, at 6 a.m. Passed Farewell Spit Light-house 
 without seeing it, the weather thick, very thick, but ran on, and 
 in a happy clear at noon saw Stephen Island about four miles off. 
 Then thicker than ever, but suddenly the air felt colder, there was 
 an appearance of light although it rained hard, and at 2.30 it 
 suddenly cleared off. But the glass didn't rise, it blew fresh still, 
 and we ran under sail till close to entrance of Port Nicholson 
 (Cook's Strait) ; then shortened sail, down screw, and steamed in 
 to Wellington (New Zealand, North Island). Lights well placed, 
 and altogether easy to get in ; but the first appearance of the town 
 is brilliant with gas, and impossible to see how ships are lying. 
 At nine the wind suddenly shifted to the south, and it blew 
 furiously off shore. I had a long scope of eight shackles out, and 
 found the holding ground magnificent. It rained in torrents too ; 
 the glass began to rise when the south wind came. 
 
 September 28///. — No longer raining, but blowing hard, with 
 violent squalls ; at nine, i.e., in twelve hours, it began to moderate, 
 and by evening it was quite still. The hills are green with 
 English grass, but not looking at all like English hills, because so 
 abrupt, and so cut by ravines and hollows as to make a perfect 
 basin. English-imported gorse has spread much further than 
 they care to see it, and covers some acres of yellow loamy soil 
 mixed with sand. A great mass of white houses lines the beach, 
 and scattered cottages and villas spread themselves about on the 
 hill side. They are all of wood. Government House is a long, 
 lowish, two-storied Italian villa (in wood). The Parliament 
 House and Government Offices are Gothic, gabled, three-storied, 
 and very effective. All tlie churches are Gothic, and some large, 
 but each has the buttresses and other attributes of a heavy stone 
 building, which is a pity. The architects should have a portfolio 
 of Swedish or North German buildings to see what is possible in
 
 184 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. I. 
 
 wood. At two I went on shore to see the Governor. Judge R. 
 came in. He spoke of the intense desire of each little commu- 
 nity to have its own perfect organisation, its judge, its courts, and 
 so on, and of the great expense which that entailed on Govern- 
 ment, and humorously said that creatures of a low organisation 
 only had an equal amount of life in all their parts, in natural 
 history. Walked through the town, and a small round. What 
 strikes one is the general air of prosperity about the houses and 
 buildings. No labourer's cottage is without a neat garden, some 
 little villas are quite pretty. A great piece of land has been 
 reclaimed from the sea; a jetty is standing out from it, where 
 great ships come alongside, and a railway of 150 miles has just 
 been begun to bring down the produce of a rich district ; and all 
 this for a town of 8000 and a province of 25,000 inhabitants. 
 
 October 1st. — To the Museum, which is excellent, and admirably 
 managed ; then to the Legislative Council, where was a debate on 
 a Maori grant of land, on which a INIaori spoke, short and jerky, 
 by sentences badly repeated by the interpreter, Avith a good deal of 
 repetition, in which doubtless there were " nuances" of difference 
 though the interpreter never showed them. It ended with : 
 " This is why I have spoken, this is why I have risen in my place 
 to speak." The next speaker said that the Maori had put his 
 finger on the very reason of the bill. 
 
 October 2nd. — Walked to the new Reservoir ; found that a 
 reservoir for 1,500,000 gallons was making up a valley. Saw 
 twenty or twenty-five]workmen, fine handsome young fellows in the 
 prime of life, splendid healthy firm flesh, rather more olive than 
 English, and quite easily independent in manner, though quite 
 good and polite manners. The foreman spoke of the uselessness 
 of land being cut up into little parcels, and of how much more 
 productive the country might be if it were possible for small men 
 to have grants or make purchases near towns. He said what 
 other men say, that men born in the colony are not so given to 
 drink as Englishmen imported. 
 
 October ()i/i. — Drove to a pretty bay called Porirua, about four-
 
 Chap. I.] WELLINGTON. 1 85 
 
 teen miles away, up a narrow ravine, with an excellent road to 
 about 600 feet, and then over a gap into a long valley of the little 
 Porirua river, with small farms and nice modest little homesteads 
 on each side, some very trim ; so much more so than one would 
 expect, with labour at from 6i-. to 8x. a day. While at Porirua 
 we walked over some hills and through some water to a Maori 
 village, or the remains of one. They own a fair bit of land, 
 and are well off, but seem to spend their rents immediately they 
 get them on drink, and then to beg of the Government. 
 They came round us, and put their hands to their mouths, 
 calling ^'' Kai ! kai /"* to the Governor. One was a wretched old 
 man, with a brown coat, and tattooed all over. An old woman, 
 with a spare dignified face and tattooed lips, was the wife of a 
 chief who died last year, and had in his time cut out the tongue 
 of an interpreter to prevent his revealing Maori secrets. She 
 wore a rude head-dress — a band of black feathers — and had a 
 red Tartan shawl on her shoulders. They like the Tartan shawl 
 better than anything apparently. It was all very wretched and 
 squalid. 
 
 * " Something to eat."
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 AUCKLAND — KAWAU — SAVAGE ISLAND — SAMOA. 
 
 Monday, October i2,th. — H. M. S. Clio arrived. 
 
 October i6//^.— H.M.S. Clio sailed. 
 
 \^0n the departure of H.M.S. Clio, bearing the broad pendant of 
 Commodore Stirling, Captain Goodenough became senior officer on 
 the station, and hoisted his broad pendant as Commodore^ 
 
 October idith. — Took off the Governor, Sir James Fergusson, 
 and weighed under sail at 12. 
 
 October 2 2nd. — Reached Auckland (North Island, New- 
 Zealand), at II P.M. 
 
 October 23r^. — The Governor landed under a salute and manned 
 yards, and I followed him, and walked with him from the pier- 
 head, where he was met, to the end of the main street. There we 
 mounted on a " dais," and the Governor received an address. 
 After this, and volunteers and band, we drove off to Government 
 House, a handsome wooden building, with beautiful rooms in 
 baddish repair, and good gardens ; and here was another detach- 
 ment (or the same over again) of volunteers — some as highlanders, 
 and band, and people who came in shoals inside the grounds. I 
 made acquaintance with Sir George Arney, the Chief Justice. 
 Looked at Commodore Burnet's grave, then to the Botanical 
 Gardens, Domain, and to Mount Eden, a very perfect extinct 
 crater, long held by the Maoris as a fortified Pah. From this we 
 had a glorious view, extending from the distant "Waikato hills, and 
 middle ranges, to Manukau and Auckland harbours on our right 
 and left, the one opening to the East and the other to the West 
 Sea, and beautiful fields of grass, and gentle hills at our feet,
 
 Chap. II.] A UCKLAND. 1 8 7 
 
 where quantities of pretty villas stood about. They are mostly 
 slight and built of wood, but look none the less well for that. 
 Sir George Arney had much to say about Bishop Selwyn, and all 
 that he has done, and pointed to the building which he had 
 raised, the theological college, the seat of the Melanesian Mission 
 Kohimarama, before it was moved to Norfolk Island. He has left 
 a great name certainly, so many speak of him. From Mount 
 Eden we went down to the foot, then drove three in a little buggy, 
 and went away across country to a lovely situation looking down 
 a combe to the water. I can't make out how they manage to 
 keep hedges and paths so trim, when wages are at ds. to Sj-. a day 
 of eight hours. So back to the town ; it is marvellous to see 
 what these people have done for themselves. 
 
 2/i^th. — The Governor's leve'e. The natives quite at their ease, 
 and unembarrassed. They at once recognise the Governor ; one 
 hears them say kmuaud to each other as they crouch down. Here 
 in Auckland are many more than in the South. Weighed at seven 
 P.M., with a light air, and got out under sail, dodged along all 
 night, making one or two tacks. 
 
 October 25///. — At eight a.ai. anchored in Kawau,* one of the 
 prettiest nooks in the world, close to Sir George Grey's very nice- 
 looking house, which is at the neck of land marked Mourav on the 
 chart. I at once went on shore with Commander Hastings, Algernon 
 Stanley, and Dr. Messer, and introduced myself to Sir George Grey, 
 who was on the pier, and welcomed me most kindly ; proposed 
 that we should walk in and about the grounds, asked me to let 
 the officers shoot cattle and kangaroos and quails, and to allow the 
 men to land and fish or walk about. We walked over the island, 
 and Sir George shewed me how everything grew; a hundred 
 varieties of fir, all the oaks, all European and semitropical plants, 
 in short, everything useful and beautiful. 
 
 Then up to the sheep-shearing place, where were 9 i lbs. fleeces 
 coming off the backs of great sheep. He has twenty men and their 
 
 * An island about thirty miles from Auckland.
 
 l8S COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 families, altogether about seventy persons on the island, I then 
 went for a ride with Sir George, he pointing out all the views ; 
 we passed quail in numbers, and pheasants many. Kauri firs 
 from ten years old upwards, to a hundred or a hundred and 
 twenty ; a taark, a handsome tree like an ilex, gives good shade. 
 Then there are cabbage-tree palms, the totara, dragon trees, Dra- 
 caenas in the swamps, the Japanese tree, which gives good fibre, 
 and others. Sir George gave us dinner, then we went on board 
 and weighed at 8.30 p.m. 
 
 November ^t/i. — At 5 a.m. saw Niue or Savage Island, long 
 and low. We ran to leeward and southward of it. The sea 
 breaking on the coast had all the appearance of breaking on this 
 side quite a mile from it, but this is not so, it is steep to. By 
 nine we were off the south-west point. The island seems of three 
 levels, the lower just above water, and bare from constant surf 
 breaking on it and through blow holes. A canoe came off in the 
 south bay of two deepish indentations, and told us that Mr. 
 Lawes, the missionary, lived in the next bay, so we stood on, and 
 at about 10 a.m. hove to in a bay, where we saw a grove of cocoa- 
 nut trees, a flag staff, and a row of excellent houses, built in 
 Samoan fashion. 
 
 I went with Payton and A. Stanley, &c., in the whaler, and 
 on landing found Mr. Lawes, whose house I walked up to 
 and found his wife. The people were having a Fono, so several 
 members from each village were present, and quantities poured 
 freely into the house while we sat there, and shook hands 
 or rubbed their noses against the back of our hands. I was a 
 first shocked at seeing them crawl along the floor to speak to us, 
 and apparently kiss our hands, but Mr. Lawes said it was thought 
 rude to pass in front of any one standing up, and that this was 
 the reason why they stole along in this fashion, which at first looks 
 grovelling. 
 
 After talking to Mrs. Lawes we went to look at the Fono, 
 and found it sitting under a grove of cocoa-nut trees, and
 
 Chap. II.] SAVAGE ISLAND. 1 89 
 
 occupying a circle at least thirty-five yards in diameter; not sitting 
 in a circle, but the men from one village in a group together, then 
 those of another village a little apart, all squatting on the ground, 
 and dressed generally in straw hats, and blue or red flannel shirts. 
 There is every variety of feature among these islanders, from flat 
 squab noses and almost woolly hair, to lank hair and aquiline 
 noses like a Peruvian Indian ; the latter the most intelligent look- 
 ing, but I think the former the most dignified when old. Heaps 
 of children were knocking about, and were covered with flies ; but 
 I did not see one scabby or leprous-looking man or woman, nor 
 any with elephantiasis. There was one woman with a goitre. 
 The best looking and most orderly girls were dressed in long blue 
 cotton gowns, with a small white quatrefoil in it, and this was be- 
 coming. Some girls had wreaths of white flowers round their 
 necks, and some wore red flowers in their hair, with a spray of green 
 leaves, which was not unbecoming. 
 
 After two or three had spoken, and we had sheltered from 
 the rain, the natives asked me to speak to the Fono. So I asked 
 j\Ir. Lawes to interpret for me, and said : — " Men of Nine, I am 
 glad to have called at your island on a day on which I find 
 men from every village assembled, and that I thus have an 
 opportunity of seeing you all together. Every British naval 
 ofiicer is glad to call here on his voyage, and to be ready 
 to give any advice or assistance which you may need. As I 
 stand here, I cannot but remember that it is just a hundred 
 years ago since the first Englishman who visited you — the great 
 Captain Cook, was driven from your shores by you, with spears 
 and clubs. He was succeeded by Williams, whom you would not 
 receive, but who succeeded after a time in sending people to teach 
 you. Now ! how great is the change ! Instead of spears and 
 axes, I see every one well clothed and well taught, and living in 
 good houses. 
 
 " To whom do you owe this, and how has it come about ? You 
 owe it to the men who came from England to teach you and to live 
 among you. You owe it to ' Williams ' and ' Murray,' ' Lawes '
 
 I90 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 the elder and younger. What is the advice which I am going to- 
 day to give you ? It is to attend to the words and counsel of 
 Mr. Lawes. I have asked him what it is you are consulting upon, 
 and wherein you want advice, and he tells me this: that the 
 proper respect is not paid to the judges. Now I say this to you : 
 you that are young men must pay respect to the magistrates, and 
 you that are old must see that the young have good counsel in 
 this matter. Another point : Mr. Lawes says that some of you 
 speak of having a king. Is not your Fono enough ? If the men 
 of the families of each village meet to discuss village affairs, and if 
 the village heads speak together in the Fono, is not this enough 
 to settle all your business without a king ? This is all I have to 
 say to you, and I wish you Alofa, and God be with you." 
 
 All were turned attentively towards me, but there was not a 
 sound of any sort from them. I ought to have said something to 
 them about peace, and the missionary afterwards told me that 
 there were two other questions : one was the introduction of 
 spirits, the sale of which has hitherto been forbidden ; and the 
 other is the question of the sale of land, which the natives have 
 been very much averse to hitherto, and have constantly refused. 
 I told him to advise the chiefs on no account to admit liquor to 
 be sold ; and that, as to land, they had better set about ascertaining 
 ownership, and so avoiding strife ; also that, in any future sale of 
 land, they should keep large reserves which should never be sold at 
 all to any one, but kept as a common possession for ever. I forgot 
 to say that the man who came on board in the first bay, when 
 I asked his name, said '' John Davis, Mr. John Davis," and pre- 
 sently said, " May I go on shore?" After speaking at the Fono, 
 I went for a short stroll with Mr. Lawes, over the coral formation, 
 which is everywhere on the surface, but which bears wild bushes 
 and trees, and also the guava, arrow-root, orange, lime, and lemon, 
 as well as cotton, which have been introduced and grow wild. 
 The missionary had two plants of a very pretty sort of Lilium, 
 called the Taro-taro, growing in front of his house. 
 
 He told me that there are three whites on the island : an Ame-
 
 Chap. II.] SAMOA. 191 
 
 rican and a German, both of whom are agents for Godcfroy, of 
 Hamburg ; and an Englishman, on his own account. Cotton and 
 an edible fungus are the chief articles of export. Cocoa-nuts are 
 in request as drinking water, and therefore there is no export of 
 cobra, the drinking water being bad and brackish very often. 
 Arrowroot might be made an article of export : it grows in abund- 
 ance. I left with Mr. Lavves some seeds of the fibre-bearing palm, 
 which Sir George Grey gave me, and which will probably do well. 
 Coming back to the house, Mrs. Lawes offered us cake, every- 
 thing so fresh, neat, and bright. At 12.45 walked down to the 
 boat, carrying off fans and a splendid sheet of Tapa,''* given iwe 
 by Mr. Lawes. 
 
 Everyone carries his fan ; and, besides, men use a leaf of a pan- 
 danus, to shelter them from the wind. Made sail at 2.30, and 
 went away, nine knots. The landing-place is not at all badly 
 imagined ; there is a channel cut or blasted through the chain of 
 coral, which forms a beach, " a flenr d'ean." Saw a white bird 
 with one long feather in the tail, and orange beak. 
 
 November $t/i. — I forgot that yesterday I saw an Albino child, 
 and was told that there were several ; also a woman, with a goitre, 
 who nevertheless decked herself with flowers. Item, the men 
 who came off clapped on the ropes just like they did at former 
 visits of men-of-war. See Erskine, &c. Item, the missionary 
 speaks of westerly gales in January, February, and March, veering 
 from W. N. W. to S. "W. " If it backs, then the gale is worse 
 than at other times." 
 
 November 6///.— Saw the land about W.N.W., half W., at 8.30 
 A.M. and steaming all day against a vile head wind, came to an 
 anchor at 6 p.m., in Pango Pango harbour, island of Tutuila, in 
 the Samoa group — the pilot having missed the ship. It is per- 
 fectly easy to pass in or out, with or without a pilot, even when 
 thick, as no distance is gi'eater than can be easily reached by eye. 
 The bay has steep hills all round, covered with trees to their tops ; 
 
 * Native cloth, made from the bark of trees.
 
 192 , COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II 
 
 groves of cocoa-nuts at the foot half hide the huts. Anchored in 
 21 fathoms, and I sent a boat to Maunga, to bid him come on 
 board. The oflicer found his wife ready to interpret, and found 
 that they have a flag, but I can't make out who gave it them. It 
 has blue horizontal stripes, and a red jack with stars in it. Some 
 of the officers went on shore, I stayed on board. 
 
 Crowds of natives came down and on board, and were beginning 
 to sell things when a big boat came down from the chief, a sort 
 of whaler, built of six planks sewn together, with two men in her 
 with white wands, who said that the ship was tabn, and that the 
 men were some good and some bad, and for fear of anything 
 being stolen, all were to go away. Some women were about those 
 canoes, hanging to the ship, but the general feeling was that the 
 men were very handsome, the women not so. Two canoes in- 
 terested me. In the first a man and his wife were paddling ; the 
 man, a fine looking fellow, and the wife with a lighter skin than 
 usual, not good looking, but straight as an arrow, and clothed in a 
 very neat long gown from neck to ankles, white, with a notched 
 red edge round the sleeve. It is astonishing to see the effect of 
 this red edging on the brown skin. In the other, a married 
 woman and a girl were paddling, and another little canoe with a 
 couple of men would hang on to them. The married woman and 
 one man played a neutral part, but a strong flirtation was going 
 on between the bowman in the man's canoe and the girl in the 
 other, which was amusing to watch, and on which I built a whole 
 story as it went on ; the girl pretending to shove the canoe off 
 and laughing, the man holding on and sometimes going so far as 
 to put his hand on her knee. All in a very simple and not at all 
 immodest way. 
 
 November ']th. — It rained, and at 7 a.m. went for a stroll with 
 Stanley and Perry up through the village, and up the path to Fw/ga- 
 soa, funga being generic for bay, I believe. We went for a bit 
 without rain ; then it poured in torrents, and we were wet to the 
 skin with soft, warm drops. I don't know that I saw anything 
 new. Bread-fruit and banana seemed to be growing wild in
 
 Chap. II.] TUTUILLA, SAMOA. 1 93 
 
 abundance : and cocoa-nuts, of course. Papau, too ; but in less 
 quantity. The soil, steaming and luxuriant. Perry caught butter- 
 flies, and bagged a great many ferns, &c. We got to the top of 
 our steep hill, and down again ; going well down on the other 
 side till I heard boys' voices, and found them cutting some 
 bananas. 
 
 It was an unfavourable day to see the huts ; but they struck me 
 as both dank and dirty. We went into one, and sat down for a 
 few minutes. They are superior to many savages, unquestionably; 
 but much less good than I should have expected from the long 
 period of teaching which they have had. I should not think they 
 are superior to what Tahitians were in 1S46. The canoes are 
 very much like those of Tahiti, small and less neat than those of 
 the Sandwdch Islands. 
 
 At about 10.30, old ]\Iaunga, the chief, came on board with his 
 wife, in a whale boat made of stitched boards, and driven by 
 paddles ; — he in an absurd black hat and white band round it, his 
 wife with an absurd child's gauze hat. I gave him a guard of 
 marines, and showed him the drill, and let him fire a gim. He 
 brought me two pigs, some bunches of bananas and taros. They 
 had luncheon with me, with great gravity and perfectly good 
 manners, but with little ease or comfort to themselves. The pilot, 
 John Adams, a Sandwich Island (Hawaiian) man, came with 
 them. He lives at the Httle island of Aana, off the east end of 
 Tutuila, and came away from Oahu about 1S46-7, he being a son 
 of Tanoa, whom I remember. He has married on Aana, and has 
 five sons and three daughters, which looks as if the strain crossed 
 well. 
 
 When we anchored yesterday a man in a black coat came off 
 with a letter, addressed John Sime, Esq,, Harbour Commissioner, 
 which I opened, and found the appointment of Johm Sime, Esq., 
 to be Harbour Commissioner. Signed, 
 
 O au le INIaunga. 
 
 (I am Maunga.) 
 o
 
 194 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 He came to-day ; and a Yankee, who has been here eleven 
 years and who seems to know something, told me that this John 
 Sime is the most direct heir to the chiefdom of the bay ; for — the 
 inheritance being in the female line — he was cousin to a nephew, 
 first cousin once removed to the last Maunga; this Maunga 
 having come from Manua, just before Erskine's time. This man, 
 as the American said, looked very like a Barbadian preacher 
 among the negroes ; and so he did, in truth. 
 
 I talked to the American, who tried to explain about the land 
 titles, or rather want of titles. As in New Zealand, there is no 
 real title to land, and cannot be. The title to land is by occupa- 
 tion, and those who have once occupied are held to have a right 
 to a share, but no more than a share, of what is going. At present 
 there is more land than enough, by a long way, all over Tutuila ; 
 but there is no land to be sold. A man can come and cultivate, 
 but he can no more claim land than he can eat up whole families, 
 or exterminate them. Any member of a tribe who own the land 
 can come and take his parcel or portion, just as a Freeselector, 
 who has been made familiar by TroUope's book to English readers, 
 can come and buy a squatter's land ; the only difference being, 
 that here the squatter, for he is only that, has nothing but the right 
 to occupy, and no right of preemption whatever ; and the man 
 who buys land of one or two persons is most certainly either 
 deceived, or else is merely biding his time to see what will turn 
 up out of the wars which are killing men off. 
 
 At 3.30 I shortened in, and at 4.30 got away ; a heavy heave, 
 very heavy. It was very squally about the harbour, but light 
 wind, which veered to vS.W., outside ; and there was a strong 
 E.N.E. current against us. 
 
 November Wi. — At 12.30 a.m. made the land of the Island of 
 Upolu, getting clear after very heavy rain indeed; and at 5 a.]m. 
 were off the east point of Upolu, anchoring off Apia at 9 a.m. 
 
 Off came a Yankee pilot with his boat. A pilot is totally un- 
 necessary, for one can see everything. One ought only to know
 
 Chap. II.] UPOLU, SAMOA. 1 95 
 
 that it is best to tack as close up under ]\Iattuttu point (E. point) 
 as possible, and moor with open hawse to north. 
 
 XJpolu is as lovely as Tutuila, with bright, flashing surf, a fringe 
 of feathery palms, and long slopes reaching in to steep wood-clad 
 hills, where deep blue hollows relieve the brilliant and rich greens 
 of the opposed slopes. 
 
 Mr. A\'illiams, the consul's son, came off and told me he had the 
 Foreign Office permission to be consul. I therefore saluted him 
 with seven guns. He told me that the wars were all over, and 
 that the chiefs had agreed to make laws and to keep them ; the 
 consuls assisting by advice, and also as assessors or judges ; judges 
 in a cause between natives, and assessors or assistants between 
 white and native. 
 
 After him came the Yankee consul, my friend, the pilot. He 
 has been here twenty years, and began as a wild harum-scarum 
 fellow, living as a Samoan. He is now married to a Samoan, and 
 says that he considers his lot thrown in with Samoa. 
 
 Dr. Turner, of the London Missionary Society, came on board 
 and introduced himself, and said there was a case of four natives 
 of the island of Moti-Lap. They had escaped from Tahiti, where 
 they were labourers, and got an open boat, in which they fetched 
 jNIanua, and tvere then handed on here. Would I take them 
 towards their homes? I said "Yes" at once, and they are to 
 come on Tuesday. 
 
 After dinner, at 3.30, we went ashore to the consul's house, and 
 found his wife and a Mr. Branker, who is nephew of Mr. Godefroy, 
 and manager of a property of 760 acres close to. We sat a 
 little till the rain cleared, and then rode out to the plantation. 
 The weather cleared beautifully, and gave me a splendid view of 
 the country, which but for the wet hot smell would have been 
 delicious. It is Tahiti over again, the same thing. Graceful 
 palms near the sea, many streams, thick bright vegetation. It 
 was beautiful to see the dense forest at the edge of the clearing, 
 where every variety of tree, shrub, and creeper is suddenly 
 brought to the front, with the light piercing through to places 
 
 o 2
 
 196 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II 
 
 ■where it has not been before, and showing one lovely forms of 
 leaf and spray which have grown quietly in the shade to loveliness 
 which they would never reach if they were for ever in the light. 
 It is a fresh symbol of human life, and of what passes in the 
 world. 
 
 Mr. Branker has been here for two years. He believes he has 
 760 acres, and 264 natives on the plantation, which gives about 
 220 working hands. He hopes to have 500,000 lbs. of unginned 
 cotton this year. Each labourer gets $3 a month, which is raised 
 to $5 if they stop over their agreement. The men come from 
 Taputeouea, in the Gilbert Islands, from the Mortlock group, and 
 from the Caroline Islands. All these men build their huts, like 
 Malays, on piles, although living on high ground, showing the 
 strength of habit and of a reason still remembered among them. 
 He had built long barracks for the men, and then when any wish 
 to be married they first have to build their own hut. At one hut 
 a woman was quietly suckling a child, a fine, healthy boy. At 
 another, the commcres — in fact, all the women of the place — were 
 waiting for the birth of another. There was no attempt to teach 
 or to civilise, though Mr. Godefroy, as Mr. Branker said, had 
 desired him to build chapels and schools. He had a Samoan 
 teacher, a handsome, intelligent-looking man, who offered Stanley 
 a shell for sale, or something of that sort ; that was all. 
 
 We asked how long do they work, and were told from day- 
 light till dark, with a rest at 10 a.m., during v/hich a bell is rung. 
 The Caroline Islanders are short, round featured, young-looking, 
 with an easy, good-humoured expression ; their ears and necks 
 covered with bits of shell earrings, armlets, and necklets. Mr. 
 Branker said that they were very truthful and trustworthy, and 
 never told a lie. 
 
 The Taputeouea men are bigger, heavier boned, with longish 
 hair, and might pass almost for Fuegians. These were made 
 to dance, while Mr. Branker threw figs of tobacco among them. 
 I did not understand that he had any engagement with these 
 men, indeed I think he said he had not. But when they go back
 
 Chap. II.] SAMOAN CUSTOMS. 197 
 
 they take two or three chests, full of things of all sorts ; and when 
 landed on their own island are regularly plundered of everything 
 which they possess by their friends. He says that they sometimes 
 come back with their wives : they are tremendously jealous, both 
 husband and wife. Some of these poor creatures were frightfully 
 marked about the back and breast with shark's-tooth knives, 
 with which they have lacerated themselves in their own 
 islands. 
 
 November c^th. — Went to bathe in a very good stream, under a 
 waterfall ; but it rained all the time, and we got back, very wet, at 
 7.30 A.M. 
 
 In P.M. I sent to all the EngHsh residents to come on board, 
 and also the American consul, to whom I paid a visit with Hast- 
 ings. He told many stories, which were very good, and particularly 
 as to the value of mats, of which he showed us one, very old and 
 fine, all worked by hand, worth, perhaps, $100 ; another, not so fine, 
 but, though worked by hand, quite 7 ft. by 8 ft., worth $25 ; others 
 worth $5 to $10. They were trimmed with red feathers of a 
 paroquet from Fiji. This led to his saying that he believed 
 that with mats, fine mats — which are to Samoans what old plate, 
 linen, land, title-deeds, honours of all sorts are to an Englishman 
 — you might make a renegade of the best Christian that Samoa 
 ever held ; that you could draw young men and maidens, and do 
 what you liked with them ; and that anybody acquiring power in 
 Samoa should burn all the old mats i^ide Pritchard). He then 
 gave us a sketch of a marriage, — that it was always by elopement, 
 and that a girl married as she liked ; and that then her friends 
 sent after her, and made a present of mats to swell their importance. 
 Also an imaginary case, to show the power of the sister's 
 son, the vasu, as it is called in Fiji. The men of a family being 
 foreigners, the vasus or sister's sons, and indeed all the female 
 branch, are more or less spoilt children, and can have what they 
 like, any goods they can lay hold of. For instance, a boy asks 
 his uncle (maternal) for his gun, and the uncle says no. The 
 boy goes crying to his mother, " My uncle won't give me his
 
 198 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 gun." The mother says, " His children shall rot, my curse is on 
 them; their legs shall swell, they shall die." And* she goes out 
 and tears her hair, and curses aloud, " They shall die, my curse is 
 on them," The people say, with their hand in awe upon their 
 mouth, " What is this ! how dreadful ! A curse is upon them ; 
 they have the sister's curse ! " And by-and-bye this comes to the 
 brother's ears, who says, with his wife, " This is dreadful! get 
 mats, bring presents ! " And they heap up all they can and carry 
 it to the sister, and lay it before her and say, " Have pity ! have 
 mercy! see us humble ourselves. Take all that we have, but 
 forgive and let us live, us and our children — take off the curse ! " 
 But not only the sister's son, but all the family have a right by 
 custom to all that there is in a man's house, and even to the 
 house itself; and he told us that a chief, just the other side of the 
 first stream, east from Mataatu, built for himself a very good bread- 
 fruit-tree house — a very good house. His wife was a niece of old 
 Bullamacow, chief of Saluafata ; and Bullamacow, coming down 
 one day, says, " Dear me, what a nice house ! " " Yes," says 
 the other, " and I have spent all I had, my savings and earnings, 
 and all that I had, to build it, and pay the carpenter's wages, and 
 I have nothing left." " Dear me," says Ballamacow, " how nice 
 that house would look on one side of my square ! " for he has 
 a square at Saluafata with houses round it. " Oh, don't say 
 that ! " says the chief, " don't say that ! " beginning to see what 
 is up ; but Bullamacow goes on hinting, and at last goes away. 
 The chief hopes it is all over, but in a week he suddenly misses 
 his wife, and finds from his son that Bullamacow has taken her 
 away, and that she is not to return ; so after a bit he collects 
 mats, and a lot of goods to fifty dollars' value, and goes up to 
 Bullamacow, who says, " Ah, how d'ye do ? your wife is up here 
 nursing her sick relations, and she is going back to-morrow to 
 you. What is all this? " " Ah, this is a present for you, Bulla- 
 macow, to console you for parting with my wife again !" "Oh," 
 says Bullamacow, " what a pity that you should take such trouble, 
 and your wife going back to you to-morrow ; but you have an
 
 Chap. II.] SAMOA. 1 99 
 
 cmpfy canoe ! and she can now go back with you. She is all 
 ready." So she gladly enough comes back to her husband, who, 
 as he leaves Bullamacow, says, " Where did you think of placing 
 your new house?" for he is afraid that his wife will be taken 
 again ; and sure enough his fears increase, and the whole house 
 goes bodily to Saluafata, and is put up for Bullamacow, who has it 
 now. 
 
 Among other things he said that, when these people were 
 fighting, parties were divided. Atua, for instance, was in part 
 Avith Manono and Savaii, and in part with Masanga, and it would be 
 arranged that the two parts of Atua never meet face to face. One 
 part of Atua was confronted by Savaii, and the Savaians put the 
 other part to confront IMasaunga, and even if Atuans met 
 Atuans, they did not fight, because a death-blow on either side 
 would no doubt give rise to a vendetta which would prevent the two 
 parts of Atua from combining for any other common object. (?) 
 
 His wife, a half-caste, speaks English perfectly well, making 
 intelligent remarks about the people. 
 
 In P.M. came Puli-puli, chief of Aanu, and Siumanatafu, 
 ruling chief of Apia, in jackets and hats, not badly dressed. By- 
 and-by their daughters came. Miss Moe', of fifteen, a graceful 
 creature, who said " Thank you " quite prettily, and when I gave 
 her a picture book, put it on her head quite gracefully. She was 
 daughter of Pulipuli. She had a fine mat with red feather border 
 round her body, and a blue tiputa or cape, and on top of her head 
 a red, embroidered smoking cap. This Pulipuli was of so high 
 rank that in the war no one would touch him for fear of a worse 
 broil than the actual war, a blood feud which it takes years to 
 subdue ; for these people have been at war till now on some 
 absurd question of honour which no European can explain. 
 
 The English residents came to tea afterwards. 
 
 November iit/i. — The Taimua, seven in number, with their 
 fool, and a clerk or secretary, came on board, and in the presence 
 of the Commander and of Perry I said, " I am glad to have 
 received the chiefs, forming the Taiuma, on board to-day ; and
 
 200 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 that I am here so soon after the promulgation of the laws and 
 constitution which came into force on November ist, because I 
 wish to show to every one in Samoa, as well to Samoans as to 
 foreigners, that I recognise the authority of the Taimua, and that 
 as far as I can I intend to give it support." 
 
 The leader, or President, Paii, then said, " We can say nothing ; 
 we have nothing to say but that we are deeply grateful to you for 
 the part which you have taken to-day, and in testimony of our 
 gratitude I show my respect to you by a gesture which is the 
 highest token wliich our native customs afford ; the inanua, or 
 placing my hand on my head," which he did. Another chief 
 said, " Let us all join in doing what Paii has done to show that 
 we all unite in this testimony ;" and all together raised their 
 hands to their heads, an appropriate gesture. I then said, " I 
 hope that nothing will occur to make it necessary for me to help 
 you in your difificulties, but should you have any I shall hear of 
 them. I may be allowed to point out to you that all difficulties in 
 the way of your treatment of foreigners will be smoothed and 
 made easy if you administer the law equally between Samoans, 
 without regard to rank or station." They thanked me again and 
 regretted that Samoa was poor, and that they could bring me no 
 presents, to which I made the obvious remark that the best 
 present which they could bring was an assurance of the future 
 peace of Samoa. I then asked them to go on the poop, to see 
 their flag flying, and to witness a salute in its honour, which they 
 did, and then returned to the cabin and drank a glass of wine, 
 the jester or public speaker, an old fool and dissipated old wretch 
 chanting a sort of hulloa ! — in my honour, I suppose. After a little 
 they were told that I wanted to go to Malua, and they at once 
 took the hint and went away. The man who spoke, a fine looking 
 man, was very well dressed in mat, three times round his body at 
 least, the mat having red feathers at the edge. Some of the 
 others had mats, and some tapa. All had shirts. They smoked 
 cigarettes. 
 
 I then started with Payton and Dr. Turner in the gig to Malua,
 
 Chap. II.] TRAINING COLLEGE. 20i 
 
 the training college of the London mission, about ten or eleven 
 miles to leeward. There was a little breeze and we ran down in 
 exactly two hours, past a wide bay and three or four points of 
 land. At Malua, at 2 p.m. exactly, we found Dr. Nisbet waiting 
 for us, and dinner ready, and after taking our things up, sat down 
 to an excellent dinner of a good fish, roast duck, and ditto fowl, 
 bread fruit, taro, yam, banana (fried), and a native dish of arrow- 
 root. Mrs. Nisbet is the daughter of a Waldensian pastor. After 
 dinner we went to see the students' hall ; the students live in 
 messes of four when unmarried, in houses which have stone walls 
 with a Samaon roof over them, and there is a native house in 
 rear of each. There are about twenty houses arranged in two 
 rows — a leader's house at the end of each row, and the school 
 facing the space between the two rows. The youths, some of 
 whom are almost thirty, but most under twenty-five, are to-day 
 sixty-seven in number, i.e., eighteen less than full numbers, which 
 is eighty-five. They have twelve or fourteen boys who are volun- 
 teers, and if these return as student interpreters then they start 
 with a better acquaintance with elementary matters than the 
 others. We sat down and heard them answer questions on 
 geography, looked at some very good writing, and saw a boy or 
 two cyi^her on the black board neatly and firmly. Good, open 
 faces, and satisfactory fellows, I should say. Dr. Nisbet says that 
 they do not introduce much comfort into their villages or houses 
 when they go back to them, except that each man has usually a 
 desk, and a partitioned room for his bed. If a white teacher is 
 likely to come his way then he may very likely have a chair or a 
 sofa. Some of them are now having stone instead of timber walls 
 to their houses, and have them higher than they used to be. The 
 school room holds a hundred people very comfortably, and is a 
 good instance of a handsome Samoan roof, of a regular Samoan 
 construction of bread fruit tree rafters, and cocoa nut pillars. 
 After this I said that I was glad to see them. They must re- 
 member that much is to be expected of them, to keep the young 
 of their country on the right path. Then they sang a hymn to a
 
 202 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 tune which has degenerated from its English original, but was not 
 unpleasant, some of the harmonies being good, decidedly. Mrs. 
 Nisbet teaches the women to work, and a class of young men at 
 English. She says that her servants say that they come to her to 
 serve for love, and this is to a certain extent true, for they are 
 well off and do not need to serve for the small pay. Tea at 7.0 ; 
 prayers at 9.30, then supper and bed. 
 
 November \2th. — Up at six and went to bathe at a point where 
 fresh water oozes from a marsh over the surface of the bed of lava. 
 A little energy would drain this marsh, which now stinks badly. 
 Returned to Apia, and at 4.0 p.m. met the British residents. The 
 officers had an entertainment, and the two chiefs and their 
 daughters came on board. Christy Minstrels, &c. There were 
 shouts of laughter. 
 
 November 13///. — At 4 a.m. went away with Tapuia or Raro- 
 tonga George, the owner of a capital canoe, to see the worms 
 pullolo. They are horrible, long, wormy, centipedy green and 
 brown creatures, which come up for two days in November each 
 year, and we have just happened on tlie day. Just before day- 
 light the horrid things, from one inch to two feet long, come to 
 the surface in heaps, and one spoons them up with a gauze net. 
 I found the canoe quite manageable. We were on the reef by 
 five o'clock, and paddled alongside a canoe with three women in 
 it, who talked and laughed with my man. They have a very 
 pretty laugh, certainly, and are nice, good creatures. After dipping 
 away for some half hour I spooned one up and excited much 
 laughter, by saying in triumph, Tasi. Then our canoe unhooked 
 the outrigger of another, and a woman stepped over and made it 
 right again. I spooned up lots of these creatures, sometimes with 
 hand and sometimes with net. All the place is out there in canoes, 
 and there is plenty of clatter and splashing and fun, all of which, 
 as humours of the place, I enjoyed. By-and-by the sun gets up 
 and the brutes disappear. After catching these fish I went on the 
 coral reef and looked at the lovely fish and creatures, blue, green.
 
 Chap. I I.J KIDNAPPED NATIVES. 203 
 
 and barred white and black, all swimming in and out of their 
 branching hollows — they were lovely. 
 
 At 9.30 got under way, and came away without^ pilot. Ran 
 close to Apolinea, which is interesting, and got a fine breeze, a 
 regular trade, bright and blue, very pleasant. 
 
 November i^t/i. — At Apia I received on board four natives of 
 Mota Lava, to return to their country ; this is their histor}-, as 
 given by an extract from the journal of the Rev. T. Powell, of 
 the London Missionaiy Society, Falealiti Upolu, November, 
 1873 :— 
 
 " Pango Pango, Tutuila, October 7th, 1872. 
 
 " This morning there arrived from Ithunea (eastern side of 
 Tutuila), four men, natives of the Banks' Islands, who have been 
 kidnapped, taken to Tahiti, kept there in semi-slavery, and who 
 finally made their escape in a fishing (?) boat. They name their 
 island IVIoti Lap, their village Laalap. Their names are Numbok 
 al Sine. Johnny. He is the youngest, and knows a considerable 
 amount of Samoan ; he is a chief. Mira, brother of Numbok 
 Urn, and Uar'is. Their tale is as follows : — 
 
 " Their group and its neighbourhood consist of the following 
 islands, besides others, viz., Motiap, Amota, Vaunalap, Merlap or 
 Alerilap, Arab or Arav, Santa Maria, Espiritu Santo, Malicollo, 
 Fan, and Tanna. A two-masted vessed called the ' Lusene ' cast 
 anchor off IVIotilap, twenty-five men went off to her, were wel- 
 comed on board, treated very kindly, and asked to remain for the 
 night. The ofter was accepted, and next morning they found the 
 vessel under sail. At this time there were, besides themselves, 
 thirty-seven natives of Malicollo on board, but they do not know 
 how they had been obtained. The vessel next went to Arav or 
 Arab, and lay off and on. Here the natives were invited on 
 board to trade ; the men flocked on board, and twenty-five were 
 made prisoners ; the boat returned to the shore, and captured five 
 more, making thirty from Arab. The vessel next fell in with a 
 small canoe, with two natives of Amota in her. These were 
 dragged out of the canoe and taken on board, and the canoe set
 
 204 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. '[Chap. II. 
 
 adrift. Some of the natives of Arab were tied or put in irons, as 
 they manifested a disposition to swim ashore. At Merlap the 
 boat landed, and those in charge of her seized a man and a lad, 
 and persuaded a woman to come on board to get something to 
 eat. At Santa Maria five more men were obtained, they were in 
 three canoes. They were pursued by boats, captured, and the 
 canoes set adrift. Thence the vessel sailed to Tanna, where the 
 natives stole a chest, and, in retaliation for this, one man was 
 carried off. Thus they had a party of 103, viz., 
 
 Malicollo . . . . 37 
 
 Motilap . . . . -25 
 
 Arab ..... 30 
 
 Amota ...... 2 
 
 Merlap ..... 3 
 
 Santa Maria ..... 5 
 
 Tanna ..... i 
 
 103 
 
 " With these they set sail for Tahiti, were well fed on the pas- 
 sage ; one man disliked the food and cried ; they tied his hands 
 and feet and threw him overboard ; another became ill and died. 
 They were taken to a cotton plantation at Tahiti ; these men re- 
 mained, they say, working on the plantation twenty months. During 
 that period twenty of their own people died, twenty-seven of the 
 Malicollo men, and twenty-six of the Arab people, and all the others 
 except the woman and the Tanna man. Dysentery was the prin- 
 cipal cause of their death. When at Tahiti they went to the 
 cotton plantation at 6 a.m., without any breakfast, worked there 
 till 12, then rested till about 3 p.m., but had nothing whatever to 
 eat. From 3 till 6 they again worked, then went to their quarters 
 and had their first and only meal. They were fed on Indian corn 
 and bananas on alternate days. To each man was served out one 
 head or cob of corn on the corn days, the next evening each man 
 had two or three bananas only ! Nothing more till the next
 
 Chap. II.] ARRIVAL IN FIJI 205 
 
 morning. No rice or biscuit, no meat or fish of any kind. On 
 Sundays they did no work of any kind, but had better food. A 
 dinner was given them at noon, of rice and salt fish one Sunday, 
 and rice and salt beef the next, and so on alternately. They 
 spent most of the day in sleep. No attempt made to teach them 
 to read. No worship of any kind held. The pay consists of clothes 
 at about the rate of 2s. worth a month. The five of their own party 
 who survived these twenty months' hard labour concluded that it 
 would be better to die at sea than to continue any longer there. 
 They therefore watched their opportunity and escaped in a boat 
 which had been in search of food and was left at anchor. There 
 were only ten cocoa-nuts in the boat, i.e., two for each'man. They 
 were two months between Tahiti and Samoa. One of their number 
 died off the south end of Manua. They were lying low most of 
 the time, and did not feel hungr}-. The one meal a day system 
 seems to have prepared them for this ; they remained two months 
 at Manua, then came to Tutuila, where they remained three 
 months with the natives before they applied to me. They came 
 to me on the 7th of October, 1872, to request to be taken into 
 my family till a chance occurred of getting to their homes. One 
 of them knew Bishop Patteson, and had seen Bishop Selwyn. 
 Such is the account given by Johnny, and confirmed by the 
 others. They have behaved ver}- well, and seem quite docile. I 
 hope the missionaries of their group may find them prepared to 
 accept Christian instruction in all its power." 
 
 So far Mr. Powell. 
 
 Novcmbc}- i()th. — I resolved to run for the Nanuku passage 
 (Fiji) last night, and got well into it, fine and clear, before seeing 
 the island of Yangalatala. A cross current must have struck us ; 
 we then picked up Quamea (Fiji) and Taviuni (Fiji). The sun 
 rose with a splendid red light on Taviuni through the mist which 
 hung over it ; and about five or six miles from the south end, at 
 Vuna Point was a plantation, ran on and rounded the reef, and 
 was in front of a planter's house, on a good-looking property, 
 plenty of land cleared, the house and all looking very comfortable
 
 2o6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 and habitable. The sweep of land is magnificent. Went on 
 about 6.5 knots, and at dusk sighted the island of Ovalau, and 
 soon saw the lights of Levuka. As soon as we got in range of 
 the first light, we looked out hard for the second, but could not 
 see it, and at about three miles hauled off. Immediately after- 
 wards saw a red light under the white, and hauled in again, and 
 at 10.30 or so passed inside (under sail), and anchored at 
 
 II P.M.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FIJI — SYDNF.Y. 
 
 Levuka, Fiji. — November \']th. — Busy all day, with visits and 
 letters. At 4 p.m. got away to Waitovu, and bathed deliciously in 
 a pool,* led up there by a girl whom they declared — the native 
 children— to be Piccaninny Tui f Lcvuka. She had some feathery 
 things in her head. 
 
 November \<^th. — AVhen on shore passed some good-looking 
 soldiers, and a very handsome Tongan, so grave and dignified- 
 looking ; then to the eastward, and found a teacher, with a class 
 of thirty children, sitting under the trees reciting a verse of St. 
 John's Gospel, five or six of them half-caste, and going on in a 
 sing-song way with hand clapping ; sitting in two concentric ovals, 
 little girls in the inner, bigger in the outer ; fantastically dressed, 
 the half-caste with more taste, lank hair, and flower wreaths and 
 clothes. One httle thing with quite fair hair. 
 
 November 20th. — After bathing in p.m., stopped and listened to 
 at least eighty children reciting about twenty lines in unison to a 
 teacher. Such little demons ! Forty boys four deep, facing forty girls 
 four deep, dressed out in tags of dracoena leaf, strips of papers, 
 bunches of leaves, and strings of white flowers, most fantastic. 
 All their lines were recited with excited action, clapping hands 
 and sides. The teacher, a good looking, middle sized and middle 
 aged man, pointed to the lines, which were written out, as they 
 
 * A series of cascades and pools on the side of the liili, a mile and a lialf 
 from Levuka. 
 
 t 7)/i means "chief."
 
 2o8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. Ill 
 
 Avent on. After all were finished he made them get up and walk, 
 singmg a refrain, eight or ten steps forward, right about turn and 
 back ; wriggling sides, legs, and head, like mad creatures, the four 
 or five half-castes as much as the others, and in perfect time. At 
 a distance it was not inharmonious, but rough and raw when near. 
 Some men sat near and smoked and laughed. 
 
 November 26th. — Called on Pere Breheret, a dear old man, full 
 of charm. He said Cakobau's first visit to him was a knock at 
 the door, and then a shout, " Give me a knife — a hatchet." His 
 last, a year and a half ago, was to ask for a bit of wood. " They 
 are not stupid, these Fijians, they are quite clever." 
 
 November 28///. — Got away at 6 a.m.. Prize firing. Stood 
 down for Kandavu. 
 
 29///. — Anchored in Ngaloa Bay, coming in through the east 
 narrow passage, through surging reefs, Hosken on one side and 
 I on the other, half way up to the mizen top, looking out for pale 
 milky water, and finally getting into a large basin, through a 
 channel a little wider than the ship's length. Landed at the 
 island, and walked through the village. At 4 p.m. landed in the 
 creek and got a guide. With him we pulled to a village called 
 Nuku, or Nugu, then walked up a hill side with patches of 
 yam. The hill sides are here covered with coarse grass and wild 
 arrowroot, and the land looks poor, but it would carry a lot of 
 sheep, or, better still, cattle. 
 
 Stanley and Hamilton soon stopped behind, but Perry and I 
 went on alone, behind our guide, up the other hill, and down 
 two dips. At the top of the third was a bare ridge of stcatitic 
 decomposed conglomerate, reminding one of Hong Kong, but 
 with less quartz in it : and with boulders of either trap or some 
 volcanic rock imbedded in it. ^^'e looked on to Tavukie Bay, on 
 the north side of the island, and saw Mr. Simpson's house in the 
 distance. Our hearts nearly failed us, but I determined to go on ; 
 so down we went a horribly steep hill-side, which it would have 
 been very hard to climb up again, and soon found ourselves in 
 the village of Tavukie. Our guide here tried to get a canoe, but
 
 Chap. III.] KANDAVU, FIJI. 209 
 
 none was forthcoming. The peo])le were at evening prayers, and 
 the teacher, who Iiad a good canoe, (Hd not care to bring it out. 
 A man brought us a cocoa-nut, and on we went quite a mile and 
 a half on the flat, and found ourselves in a mangrove swamp, 
 through which a new road was being made to Mr. Simpson's 
 house. We came round to the front, and presently Mr. and Mrs. 
 Simpson appeared. He rents land from the Wesleyan mission, 
 and gins his neighbours' cotton as well as his own. Kidney 
 cotton will grow here ; not Sea Island. He employs some Fiji 
 labour and some foreign. There are 9000 natives on Kandavu 
 and group, and twenty-one Englishmen, some half-caste children, 
 and some children of a missionary and others. We saw by the 
 way some Albino children at Tavukie, one fat and well-liking, one 
 thin. Mrs. Simpson soon asked us to have tea, and gave us 
 excellent cakes, &c., and her husband volunteered to take us 
 back in his boat, which we closed with — (what quantities of 
 gigantic moss lined each side of the latter part of the path) — and 
 after ten minutes down we went, and had a long pull in the moon- 
 light, after wading off to the boat, over our calves; we landed on 
 tlie neck, and waded to where we had first landed in p.m. ; then 
 got a canoe, and went across to Nuku or Nugu, and found the 
 others, who had sat in a hut and bargained for a kava bowl and 
 other things. Came off, and got on board as it struck 10.30. 
 The walk through the swamp, with a boy leading us, torch in 
 hand, was very picturesque. 
 
 November 30///.— Went with Mr. Barry to see the site of the 
 light to clear the entrance and the jetty. All well placed, pro- 
 vided Ngaloawere a good place, which it is not. I would sooner 
 come up to Levuka, and go through the Nanuku Passage than go 
 into Ngaloa. 
 
 Sailed at 4 p.m., and stood to the east of the island ; then made 
 sail, and came along easily all niglit, the wind hanging to north- 
 ward. True east most part of time. 
 
 December 1st. — Ran up to Levuka, and in under sail, with quite 
 a light breeze.
 
 2IO COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 December 3;7/.— Believing Dr. Brower to be over at Wakaya, 
 went over there at 4.30 a.m., and arrived at 6 o'clock. He was 
 in Levuka. Bathed deliciously, and breakfasted under the trees. 
 A boy manager asked us, "Can I oblige you with breakfast?" 
 but we had done. He then gave us horses, and we went up to 
 the highest point of the island. There is a regular fort, with 
 double ditch, nearly circular on top. Citron and other trees 
 abound. The foundation of a temple (square) and a round foun- 
 dation still stand ; it is curious as having been the stronghold of 
 a party who used to plunder the richer land, and precisely like 
 what we should call a British encampment. It was deliciously 
 cool ; nothing could be pleasanter. The thermometer was only 
 78° below, and I dare say no more than 75° on the top of the 
 island. We tied up our horses, and sat down. The interesting 
 part of this fortification is, that the lower ditch has a covered way 
 extending from this hill to another along a ridge, and to two 
 others in another direction, which shows a considerable advance 
 in the science of fortification. We came down by another way 
 from that by which we had gone up. Dr. Brovv^er grows cotton, 
 cocoa-nuts, andcoifee. I am astonished people do not do more 
 with their cocoa-nut fibre, by which alone a fortune might be 
 made if only men would wait a little for a return. For cocoa-nuts 
 you must wait seven years from planting, eight from clearing the 
 ground. Our day was very pleasant ; we rested on a coral rock ; 
 we ate at 3, came back at 4.30, arriving here at 6 exactly. 
 
 December t^th. — Mr. Swanston came to see me, and brought his 
 map of Viti Levu, and told me of his foray in the interior. He 
 had 160 disciplined men, and 1200 to 1500 auxiliaries from 
 neighbouring tribes. These fellows on their first fight brought 
 ten bodies into cam]), and were going to eat them, but were not 
 allowed ; they buried them, and then dug them up by night, and 
 took them out of camp and ate them. The mountaineers con- 
 stantly ate those whom they took. Then came Charlie Maafu, 
 who told me of the pilotage of parts of the group. 
 
 December 10///.— Calling on Mr. Wyllie (missionary), such a
 
 Chap. III.] MOUNTAIN WALKS. 211 
 
 nice native lad came in from carrying out the baby for a walk ; so 
 graceful and smiling, pleased with his charge and with himself. 
 
 December ic^t/i. — Walked up to the top of Ovalau with Mr. 
 Butters ; very pleasant, the air getting lighter and lighter as we 
 went up. Delightfully cool on the top. Had a rest, and then 
 fell-to felling trees, and made a landmark. It is not much over 
 2000 feet, but very steep and rugged ; in some places a climb, 
 hands and feet, up the face of a rock. The foliage is beautiful as 
 always. In one place a sort of strong creeper grows, as thick as 
 my wrist ; one cuts off a foot of it, and on squeezing it out come 
 several good mouthfuls of pure clear water. At another place a 
 lot of tall leaves collect water and carry it down the juicy stem 
 of a tree, which is, to look at, like a banana ; one pierces the stem 
 at the junction of the stalk of the big leaf, and out comes a jet of 
 pure water. The buds of the wild ginger hold water too, but not 
 so much, and it has a decided taste. And all this not in the 
 ravines, but on the ridge, along which we walked all the time. 
 
 December x6th. — Started with Mr. Hennings at 7.30 a.m. in the 
 ship, and got into INIackongai at 11. "Went on shore, and to his 
 house, and then to see the cattle ; on board to dinner, and then 
 landed to see a iiieke mcke.* 
 
 The Levoni mountaineers gave us a most graceful 7?ieke meke, 
 describing first the advance of warriors on the war path, and then 
 a sally of a warrior and a return with prisoners. Mr. Hennings 
 says that these people are dying for their liberty, and to return to 
 Levoni, their own valley and country. Their dance gave one a 
 notion of their discipline and character, whereas the dance of 
 Santo men, which followed, was a hubbub of howls, and very 
 insignificant in comparison. 
 
 December I'jth. — Weighed at 5 a.jM., and got into Levuka at 
 7.40. 
 
 December 19//;. — A delightful day; the air cool and pleasant. 
 We walked, fifteen of us, led by Mr. Butters, right over the middle 
 
 * Native dance. 
 
 p 2
 
 212 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 hill of the island, 1900 feet. From the top, up to which there 
 had been a good track, we cut our way to the bottom of the 
 Levoni Valley, on the other side, down a watercourse, which was 
 rather difficult ; Hamilton as near as possible slipped over a 
 rock face thirty feet high, by stems of plants giving way. He had 
 happily a long stick in his hand, which, while holding on by his 
 nails, he reached up to a man above, and got hauled back. At 
 the foot of our rocks we found a basin bounded by hills, and a 
 fine watercourse, and after four hours' scramble had a delicious 
 bathe in a pool fifty yards long. It was, as C. said, like sinking 
 into fifteen arm-chairs, for our ankles and insteps were all a little 
 chafed. We were all wet through with perspiration from within 
 and rain from without, and covered with dirt ; so just went into 
 the water without undressing, and washed our clothes, hanging 
 them to dry in the sun. We afterwards landed, and then walked 
 through a lovely valley, which has been taken away from the 
 Levoni tribe, who have now no home. The rich soil teems with 
 splendid trees and lovely plants of many sorts. At the bottom a 
 gorge, and beyond the gorge a property of a Mr. Mangham. He 
 has a beautiful park, cleared under the trees, and some head of 
 cattle are feeding. 
 
 December 22nd. — The King came on board; dignified and well- 
 mannered. He would look better in his Sitlii than dressed in 
 European clothes. After a long official conversation, he was 
 relieved, when I asked him to look at a model of a new anchor, 
 then to see a gun fired, and to see the diver. An accident nearly 
 happened by breaking the glass of the diver's helmet. Ratu 
 Savanaga and Ratu Abel were in the chains, and said, " It is 
 very kind of the Commodore to let us see this, but what if a 
 shark were to take him." Before he left I gave old Cakobau* 
 a box of cigarettes, and he said, " I shall think of you when I 
 
 * Pronounced Thakomhait. \\\ Fijian c is pronounced th, and /' is pro- 
 nounced »ih. In the same way d is pronounced like 7ni, and g like ng. For 
 instance, Galoa is pronounced A^galoa ; and Vunii^/rala, Vuni;?r/rala.
 
 Chap. III.] HURRICANE. 21 X 
 
 smoke them. These are for chiefs, and given me by a chief, and 
 not for common people like you (to his secretary)." 
 
 December 25///.^A quiet Christmas-day; a north-east wind, 
 with squalls, awful. 
 
 26///. — Weighed at 10. 
 
 27///. — AVent into Ngaloa Bay, Kandavu. 
 
 29///. — Saw steamer " Macgregor" at 6.15. I had gone on 
 shore at 6, had a pleasant walk over the hills and grassy country, 
 well suited for cattle ; bathed 01 route for the ship, and heard of 
 the steamer being sighted on return. She got in at 10, and 
 Mr. Layard, H.M. Consul, came on board. Cakobau's son, Ratu 
 Joseph, came too, at my invitation, to go up to Levuka and Bau 
 with me; and later in p.m. all the passengers by the steamer came 
 to beg a passage, as there was nothing but the wretched "Vivid" 
 (cutter) to take them, which was impossible. I consented, if the 
 officers would receive them. 
 
 The governor came on board after a bit, and I went on shore to 
 see him. He came off afterwards to dinner, about the middle of 
 ours, and eat with quite good manners. He brought a pig, &c., 
 for Ratu Joseph, whom he really seemed to like to see. 
 
 December 2,0th. — Weighed at 6, and went on to Koro Levu 
 bay, where we arrived at 10. A fine bay. 
 
 January isf, 1874. — Woe ! woe ! I don't know what has not 
 been spoilt by the dreadful sea of the day before yesterday night. 
 That day I went into Koro Levu bay. Pulled into a beautiful 
 bay after anchoring in eighteen fathoms, and found Mr. Woods, 
 who took me to his plantation, the site of a horrid murder by 
 foreign labourers on their employer. Out again at 4 p.m. 
 Barometer falling. At 8. it began to fall rapidly, and by 10, 
 we were in a little hurricane, with a very big sea, which in a 
 moment burst into my stern ports, and swept papers, books, 
 clothes, everything. I was on the poop, and knew nothing of it 
 for an hour, and then came down and found six inches of water in 
 my cabin. The carpenters had great difficulty in getting my ports 
 in. Everything was wet. Mine and Stanley's journals, clothes.
 
 214 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 cretonne covers, &c. Poor Seneca has broken his neck, and 
 Psyche is looking upon him with that divine expression of 
 sympathy which is visible even in my little clay figure. Every 
 one of my passengers, too, lost more or less. It blew very 
 hard. I stayed on deck till 4, and then came down and slept 
 in my wet clothes — (I had no dry anywhere) — on my wet bed, 
 rolled up in a waterproof, to keep off a chill. We spent next 
 day, which was fine, in trying to get dry, and came into harbour 
 (Levuka) this morning, at 6. 1 5, and found some damage done to 
 houses and trees. 
 
 January 6th. — Started at 6 p.m. for the island of Goro, in the 
 Alacrity (schooner); rather baddish night, raining, &c. We all 
 (six of us) sleep under the awning on the top of a great booby 
 hatch, and have to run when a shower comes on, running back 
 when it is over. 
 
 January ']th.- — Landed at Vauga at 10.30, and found Mr. 
 Witham's boat, and pulled in her to Cava-Lailai ; at Nabunu we 
 saw kava made, and bathed. Ratu David was at Cava-Lailai 
 where we first landed, in command of twelve soldiers, who were 
 assembled to see the payment of taxes. He was treated like a 
 chief, i.e.; when he had finished eating his boiled fowl and bread- 
 fruit all clapped their hands. This poor island has been nearly 
 destroyed by the wind ; in two hours and a half all the bread- 
 fruit trees were blown down, and several planters' houses, many 
 cocoa-nuts, &c. 
 
 January Zth. — Walked to Mr. Hilton's, who has thirty-one 
 labourers, twelve or fourteen Tokelaus (line islanders), (S:c., 
 from all parts, and the rest Fijians, mostly boys of twelve to 
 fifteen, who get ^2 a year. We afterwards beat up in the 
 schooner, weathered the reef, went on and anchored at Nagaidami. 
 This is something like a place — well laid out. 
 
 January ()th. — Walked over the plantation, which has wide 
 walks, and is certainly better than any I have seen. 
 
 At 10.30 went off and ran down to Nairai, rounding it to wind- 
 ward, and in at the south-west corner, got through the reef just
 
 To fcLce paye 215 
 
 Journal of Couiiuo'lore Gootlpiioii^. 
 
 Menry S. £m^, & C?, London, 1876. 
 
 MalbyA Sons.Lith
 
 Chap. I II. J BAU. 215 
 
 before dark, and anchored in thirteen fathoms after passing over 
 a spit. Sent to order a quantity of pots, whicli are made here, to 
 be got ready for us to see and purchase. 
 
 January lol/i. — Landed at 9. Bought some good mats, and 
 odds and ends. I bought a great piece of tapa with a Union 
 Jack for six shiUings, and a war hair comb, and whale's tooth for 
 sixpence each. Pottery very poor ; nothing but small pots of very 
 brittle, porous stuff. Walked up a very stiff bit in the sun to a 
 plantation; weighed at 1.30, got across to Levuka at 8, having 
 been just four days and two hours away on a very pleasant 
 cruize. 
 
 January 16/"//.— Weighed (in the Pearl) at 8, and went out to 
 Bau. Very thick and rainy, but got up fairly, and anchored in a 
 fair place. We got into six fathoms with the stream anchor. 
 Ratu Timogi and Joe came out and took us into four and three- 
 quarters fathoms. Went in p.m. to call on the king, who later 
 sent me a splendid turtle. Mr. Langham, missionary, promised 
 to accompany us up the Rewa river on Monday. 
 
 January iZt/i. — Ratu Timogi and Ratu Joe came to Service. 
 We went to a Wesleyan native Service afterwards. It began with 
 a hymn, then a prayer, then recitation of the Lord's Prayer, then 
 a hymn, and lastly, a native preached fluently for over thirty 
 minutes; the text was, "Who shall escape so great damnation." 
 He painted hell — as bottomless . . . . &:c. Mr. Langham said 
 that that sort of sermon told very well with a native audience. 
 
 January i()fh. — Called at 4. Got from the ship at 5.10, and to 
 Navuloa, the place of the ^Vesleyan mission, at the mouth of 
 the river, at 6.50, and found Mr. Langham, who had arrived a 
 minute before. Our party consisted of Mr. Layard, Stanley, ten 
 officers, and Mr. Sahl, German consul at Sydney, about forty 
 people altogether, including the men, with steam pinnace, cutter, 
 and my galley. We passed but five minutes there, and came on, 
 I taking Mr. Langham and Ratu Timogi in my boat. Entered 
 the Kele Musu channel ; it may be a little less than a quarter 
 of a mile long. At 9.30 entered the Waibokase, and stopped at
 
 2i6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Mr. Page's, who gave us milk and butter. Bathed, and shot six 
 golden plover ; saw a flight of teal and a couple of ngaloa. Went 
 on before lo a.m. All this time saw thousands of acres of flat 
 land apparently very fit for sugar. At noon exactly we stopped 
 at Navosa, and transferred the coal to the pinnace, and two bags 
 to the shore. Stayed two hours so as to let every one stretch 
 their legs. About 3.30 we began to get into a ridgy country, in 
 which the earlier sedimentary rocks which lay near Bau, &c., 
 .succeed to the dead level, and here found four settlers. Mr. 
 Vv'aterstone is putting up a sugar mill. The high banks, still of 
 sedimentary deposit, and gradually giving into the stream, are now 
 becoming lovely with tree ferns, &c., creepers hanging upon the 
 high trees, giving to the dense foliage those perpendicular lines of 
 etching which are so peculiar. Opposite to these hollows, in the 
 old sedimentary, were new flats of apparently rich deposit. At 
 six we came at last to Mr. Recce's, and stopped for the night. 
 The ground and labourers in good order. He has a horse-shoe 
 of HOC acres, cultivates 270, and says that a man should look 
 after three acres. He has a little cane in the ground, like every 
 one else. It takes from thirteen to fifteen months to be made fit 
 for crushing. Had an excellent dinner of turtle-soup and pie, and 
 tea with milk, which Mr. Page gave us. The ofiicers slept in the 
 cotton-house, the men chiefly in the boats, a few of us in Mr. 
 Reecc's house. Mosquitoes all night through. I don't think I 
 slept fifteen minutes together ; a horse kept on moving all night, 
 and I kept an end of my sheet in my hand, and flicked at the 
 mosquitoes constantly. 
 
 January 2oih. — I think that every one was glad when the bugle 
 sounded to rouse out at 4 a.m., and all jumped up and dressed. 
 Mr. Reece gave us some cotton-seed, Avhich was dirty and use- 
 less, and after choking the tubes once (of the engine of the steam 
 l)innace) I threw it away altogether. We got off" at 5.10 fairly, 
 and went on well (it was just daylight) till the tubes choked 
 with this stuff, which they did before 8.30, when wo stopped on a 
 sandbank, and bathed and breakfasted very happily. We did not
 
 Chap. III.] REWA RIVER. 21 J 
 
 see the distant mountains again, but the middle liills began to get 
 lovely with little cascades over steps of sedimentary rock, and 
 creepers of every hue, very lovely. The banks got higher and 
 higher, the ducks more plentiful, and we killed a fair lot, though 
 every one shot badly : my cook shot the first. At 3. passed Nan- 
 duca, and found but one hour's coal in the boat. The boats cast 
 off and pulled. I got to A^uiidrali at 5.30, and the pinnace and 
 cutter three-quarters of an hour after, the former having put in to 
 get some firewood, which burnt well. 
 
 On walking up to this village we found, first, a lovely view, 
 quite marvellous : secondly, the old chief, who had been leader 
 of the people of Nanduca when Commander Brownrigg and the 
 boats of the " Challenger " went up. Mr. Reece told me yester- 
 day, by the way, that nine feet of water can be carried to Mr. 
 Page's, and seven to his place, Naitisiri. The chief, the old hero 
 of Nanduca, who calls himself Vunivalu,* like Cakobau, gave us 
 his house. This village is on a hill of red earth, like Bahia. 
 Certainly the distinctive features of Fiji are its marvellous water 
 communications on the richest districts. Dined, and now the 
 Vunivalu is talking, and I suppose waiting for me to go to bed. 
 
 January 2\st. — Slept pretty well, and this house of the chiefs, 
 which was new, was pretty free from mosquitoes, being 150 feet 
 above the river. Roused out at 4, and got to the boat without 
 difficulty, getting away at 5.15, not yet light, up the Wai-ni-mala 
 leaving the Wai-ni-buca on our right. The bottom began to get 
 sandy and pebbly, and after an hour difiicult. I got aground 
 badly ; but left the other boats behind, and got up to the first 
 town of Matailobau, called Nakarovatu at 7.10, waited there and 
 got a fire, bathed and breakfasted. The native boat got up, 
 but the cutter was behind, and did not get up till past 10, by 
 which time we had gone off again on foot : starting at 9.30. We 
 got to a hill, about two miles on, or rather less, on which was a 
 beautiful Kauri pine, at least 80 or 100 years old. At the highest 
 
 * Root of war.
 
 2l8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. II 
 
 point of this liill the teacher brought us some excellent fish soup 
 and fish, a firesh-water mullet, yam, taro, and cocoa-nut. Three ofl' 
 a single tree in bearing. I saw no others near. The village 
 looks over a level amphitheatre of 3000 or 4000 acres, which, they 
 told us, so overflowed in April, that the tops of the highest trees 
 cannot be seen ; say, a rise of sixty feet from the lowest point; 
 
 These hills are red, and remind one of the hills about Rio de 
 Janeiro. I saw a small granite boulder, about 200 lbs. weight. 
 All this food seems to have been brought to Ratu Timogi, who 
 graciously laid his hand upon it. It was soon demolished by our 
 party. At the village where we breakfasted they told us that 
 some of the Matailobau people burnt a town which the Dawarau 
 people were beginning to rebuild, because the latter had not 
 asked permission to build. This is unpromising ! very ! ! for us. 
 The path is sometimes now excellent ; at other times a mere cut 
 through greasy rock, and so narrow that one could but just put 
 one foot before the other; very bad indeed. At last, at 12, 
 we saw Nai ruku ruku, the last Christian village, on a level bit 
 near a river, a poor little place. 
 
 We dropped down upon it, and got possession of the teacher's 
 house. We saw the young Dawarau chief, and found that after 
 all he had feared to go on. It seems that he was here three or 
 four months ago, and asked to go up to Dawarau, but the people 
 said, " No ! you are no longer a Dawarau man, but a Bau man, 
 and we don't know you, or care for you. You may go back when 
 you like, we won't receive you." We had hardly sat down, when 
 women brought in fowls, and fish boiled in their own soup, very 
 good, and yams and plantains, all of which we eat. The men 
 were a little tired. 
 
 Presently, in came the governor of the twelve tribes of Matai- 
 lobau, who was the first to loin * in these parts, with all his pre- 
 dilection for cannibalism. He told Mr. Langham straightfor- 
 wardly, that he would send his son out occasionally, and that his 
 
 * To receive Christian teaching.
 
 Chap. III.] REU'A RIVER. 219 
 
 son would bring home a body. It is seven years since. he lotued. 
 The lobe of his left ear is enough distended to carry a stick from 
 one and a half to two inches in diameter ; there is none there 
 now. We sent a message to Dawarau, to ask them to invite us to 
 their town, but I don't think that it will succeed — we shall see ! 
 The messenger is to go to a town which is still heathen, six miles 
 from this. The old governor made a round O of astonishment 
 with his mouth, when he heard what we were, and said gently, 
 " Woi, woi ! " the people in the cottage had said the same as we 
 passed ; he cannot understand what we are after, and when we 
 talk and laugh probably thinks that we are hatching plots. It is 
 delightful to have the river continually ; it is still as wide as the 
 Thames at Hampton Court, though we are fifty miles from the 
 mouth. At 2, to our surprise, the other party from the cutter 
 turned up, very fagged ; the men came inside, and went to sleep 
 directly. Bathed, and dined off ducks. Everybody is now 
 groaning at the mosquitoes; it is 9.45, and all are trying to get to 
 sleep but me. The village people are singing, or have just done 
 their evening hymns to semi-English tunes. 
 
 Lay down at 10. Mosquitoes incessant; no sleep at all — 
 quite raging with them. We were twenty-eight in the teacher's 
 house. All the men went out, and lit a fire, and made themselves 
 as happy as possible, but got not a wink. 
 
 January 22nd. — Saw the dawn at 4.45, with a sense of intense 
 relief; the night was hideous and dreadful. Bathed at 5.15, 
 water nice and cold ; asked about the Dawarau messenger, and 
 found that having started on Wednesday, he would have slept at 
 a place six miles off, and gone on to-day ; so that no answer 
 could come till Friday, at 11 a.m. We gave up the whole thing, 
 therefore, and determined to go back ; so sent for canoes for the 
 feeble. Started the cutter's and gig's crew, and soon after started 
 ourselves, and walked back to Na koro vatu. The Kauri at Suva 
 is three feet in diameter, and 130 to 150 feet high. Gave the 
 governor of the district fourteen fathoms of cloth, and a fathom 
 to each porter and canoeman. At Na koro vatu bought a beau-
 
 2 20 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 tiful spear ; the officers bought excellent kava bowls (priests) for 
 trifling prices. After a fresh bathe, and something to eat, went off 
 to see the site of Soro vako velo ; it came on in torrents of rain, 
 but we went on, and saw this fortified town, in which a great deal 
 of art is shown in the construction, including a covered way from 
 promontory to promontory, little outworks, &c. They held out 
 here for two months, and their works were certainly not to be 
 despised. The general plan seemed to be to take in every hill 
 top, and to surround with bank, ditch, and wattled fence. The 
 best ditches eight feet, the best bank three feet high; the earth soon 
 washed down. The fences in places of fern stem, and in others 
 of wattled cane. Rain in torrents all this time. Walked back 
 through lovely paths, which in one place was a deep cut through 
 soft greasy rock, and was the bed of a torrent through which we 
 went, wading over our knees. Found some more of that rattan in 
 flower, and gathered it. Got back by a fresh path to the river 
 bank, and got the boat by hailing. When we arrived at Vuni- 
 drada, the place where we had slept, finding it not more than 
 5 o'clock, we thought of coming on to Mr. Storcks'. Ratu Tim 
 said it was near — close. Mr. Fraser said it was eight miles ; so 
 leaving the pinnace to come on in the morning, on we came. I 
 ought to have asked Hosken, who would have told me twenty-two 
 miles, which he had measured — as it was. The evening was 
 lovely, and down we went, but it seemed never coming to an end. 
 At 7.15, we stopped at the first white man's house, and arranged 
 for the cutter to pass the night there, and came on by the light 
 of the moon, and hit Mr. Storck's at 8.30, who very kindly re- 
 ceived us, giving us coffee and excellent beds, and mosquito 
 curtains. 
 
 January 23^/.— At 5.30 bathed ; had coffee, grown on the pro- 
 perty, which is now nearly abandoned, except for home consump- 
 tion, but very good. Then for a walk on the estate of 200 
 acres. Mr. Storck thinks that there are three basins of the river : 
 the Naitissiri basin of 5000 acres, Viria basin of say 3000 acres, 
 and Vunidrala basin of 4000 acres, but this is very doubtful.
 
 Chap. III.] REIVA RIVER. 22 1 
 
 I forgot to say tliat we saw a splendid waterfall yesterday, 
 about ten miles below Vunidrala, at least 60 feet wide, and its 
 top 200 feet from the valley below. It seemed to fall in 
 leaps. 
 
 Mr. Storck's plantation is far better and neater than anything 
 I have seen yet, his coffee looks to be in wonderful bearing. His 
 ground is thoroughly laboure, and clean. He has 200 acres, and 
 about forty labourers. He has known the thermometer as low as 
 54 Fahr. Saw a splendid strelitzia from the New Hebrides, and 
 other things. At 10, just as we were starting, came the cutter, 
 with the news that no one slept a wink ; the men done up com- 
 pletely. Got to Navuso at 5. 15, having visited some other pro- 
 perties on the way. The crop of Indian corn at Mr. Reece's is 
 marvellous, and that, although they have grown from corn with an 
 indifferent pedigree ; it is sown and cut within ten weeks. 
 
 January 2^t/i. — -Slept at Adi Kuila's* house, and under a mos- 
 quito curtain, and did not wake at the bugle sound : we got away 
 at about 5.10, in tow of the steam pinnace once more, for she had 
 arrived at 5.30 yesterday afternoon, with the cutter in tow. Went 
 down to Mr. Page's, and got aground under Ratu Tim's gui- 
 dance ; and then young Ellis took the helm — a nice sprack- 
 looking boy, and very handy. 
 
 We started again at 8.40, and reached Navuloa, the mission 
 station, at 11. 15. The Kek Miisit is as nearly as possible 600 
 yards long ; more likely that the natives deepened it, than that 
 they made it out and out. It is so wide — unnecessarily wide. 
 Went over Navuloa, which is on the same idea as Malua (in 
 Samoa), but the houses are better and newer, and therefore neater. 
 Mr. Carey is in charge, and his house and garden are of a superior 
 class to any which I have seen. The garden is especially large, 
 and may hereafter be good. A large hut, devoted to bachelors, 
 was very neatly and prettily arranged. We saw the huts, and then 
 went to the school, and especially remarked the Rotumans, who 
 
 ^ A daughter of Cakobau's.
 
 O 1 -> 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 .are like Malays or Javanese exactly. Came off to the Pearl at 4, 
 towed by steam pinnace. 
 
 January 2']th. — Maafu * arrived in the Xarifa; he came on 
 board, and stayed to lunch. He is a man of the world, and we 
 were soon on winking terms. I asked, have taxes been paid 
 up lately from Lau ? He said, " If a tree is torn up, and flung 
 into the sea, it floats to Levuka, but it never comes back ; " and 
 smiled. I afterwards, while we were getting under way, said, 
 " Have you an English secretary ? " " No ; " he said, " a Tongan ; 
 when you take over the government, I will ask for an honest 
 Englishman for my secretary." 
 
 January 2W1. — Got to Suva at 8.15. Landed at 3, and 
 walked over Mr. B.'s plantation. How is it possible for such a 
 plantation to pay? It is sugar, and on rough ground, with but 
 from eight to fifteen inches of vegetable mould, on either pipeclay 
 or kaolin of some sort. 
 
 January 2()th. — Weighed at 10.30, and passing outside the 
 reefs, which extend much further to the southward than is shown 
 on the chart, got at 2 p.m. inside a reef, or two overlapping reefs 
 near the Navua river. Went at 8 p.m. to the village of the chief 
 Matanitobua. He \vas not there, but his brother was, and we sat 
 down while it came on to rain, and wet us through. These men 
 have been driven from the hills, or have voluntarily come down, 
 I don't know which, and are settled on this most wretched bit of 
 land ; it is impossible that a race can long survive who live in 
 such a wretched fashion. 
 
 January 30///. — Left the ship at 6, and went with the pin- 
 nace and gig to the Navua river. Found about four feet on the 
 bar, with quarter ebb, and a fresh running out of the river ; the 
 water quite fresh at the mouth. Got up as far as Mr. Missen's, 
 and the pilot saying he could not go further, we stopped ; and 
 ultimately, after breakfast, went to a hill top, near where we 
 planted a cocoa-nut palm, on the highest spot. Afterwards saw 
 
 * A Tongan chief settled in Fiji.
 
 Chap. III.] ]VA DROGA. 223 
 
 the planters, and Harry the Jew. Left at 4, to come down the 
 river. There are about Soco to 10,000 acres of dead flat land here, 
 about as pretty as one could wish. The flood rose in 1S69, and 
 covered the main part of it, laying all nearly smooth, and leaving 
 in places as much as twelve inches of deposit. The next year's 
 crop of cotton was marvellous. Heavy rain most of the day. This 
 land ought to be superb for sugar, 
 
 Jatiuary 2,^st. — Weighed at 6, and went through between 
 Bega and the main. There is plenty of water two miles wide. 
 This coast is not brought to the southward far enough in the 
 chart, and it does not show the indentations or rivers. Singa- 
 toka is not shown at all. Anchored at 2 p.m., in the Na Droga 
 harbour. 
 
 February 1st — Sunday. All the neighbouring settlers came on 
 board, and to lunch. At 4. landed and went for a stroll ; got a 
 Kava bowl, &c. Ratu Kini had gone to Bau, but his son, Ratu 
 Luke, is here, a very nice young fellow, with good manners. 
 His house was good, and his wife who sat reading her Bible, a 
 nice looking young woman. An old man with a broken ear came 
 in, who had brought the Zofu from Bau, fourteen years ago. We 
 seem to be more thought of and admired here than in other 
 places. We went into the stranger's house, a particularly good 
 one, and then to the teacher's house; and afterwards walked 
 along the coast to some villages, and picked up some good clubs, 
 &:c. At a village two miles east (so deliciously cool), we met 
 Ratu Kini's brother, and sat down with him in a minor chief's 
 hut. This man was 6 ft. 2 in. and Ratu Kini's brother 6 ft. 3 in. 
 We got friendly with the old rascal, who said that he had had 
 twenty wives, and that when he got tired of them he split their 
 heads with a club. He would not confess to having eaten man's 
 flesh, but he evidently had been an old rip who had lived riotously. 
 We went over from here to Alessrs. Clark and Macdonald's 
 house ; a capital house built of concrete, the whole evolved out 
 of their own heads. It is really spendidly built, and as firm as a 
 rock. We here looked at the soil, and found to our surprise that
 
 2 24 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. III. 
 
 it is undoubtedly a limestone, full of crystals — above it a layer of 
 red earth of great value. The cotton crop is magnificent upon it. 
 Nothing can be finer for some cultivation, videlicet, Malta. The 
 limestone is very like that at the back of Malta — the so-called 
 marble of Malta. All this was most enjoyable, and not less so 
 our pole back in a canoe, gently poled along over the shoal 
 patches, while Ratu Luke told us that Orion was the two men car- 
 rying a burden; and that the moon was a man carrying a faggot, 
 and that when the faggot was burnt the moon could not be seen 
 (eclipse ?). The Pleiades were a bunch of papaws. He said that 
 Na Droga was peopled by two men landing on the western point 
 who took wives from the Kai Colos (mountaineers) and begat 
 sons and daughters. Got to the ship at 8.30 and brought Ratu 
 Luke to tea ; he behaves perfectly. 
 
 FebriiMj 2nd. — Up at 4.15 and went to see the Sigatoka river, 
 literally " never in the dark ; always in the sunlight." A walk of 
 seven miles over grass hill after grass hill, quite uninteresting 
 except that a ridge of limestone appeared here and there through 
 the soil, and caused an instant change in the vegetation from grass 
 and pandanus to a variety of trees and bushes. The way in which 
 the tree grows in the limestone is marvellous. It fairly takes root 
 and breaks up the stone, which is a hard, pink limestone, not an 
 ordinary soft sample, and would make good marble slabs and 
 haply baths. Pink marble baths ! ! After about five miles we got 
 to a little village on a hill top, then down to one at the base, on a 
 stream in which we bathed, and stopped for half-an-hour, arriving 
 at Sigatoka at 11. We found a guard of the chief Nagadro's 
 own soldiers whom he pays himself, and has drilled by a Bau man 
 who is with him. His bare is a Fijian house of the old pattern, 
 and is square with the corners well rounded off. We began by a 
 compliment of Fijian fashion, stating where we had been, and 
 what we were about, and saying that we were proud to see him. 
 He is a man of nearly seventy, I should say, and nearly blind. 
 He sat still for more than fifteen minutes considering, and at last 
 said he was glad to receive our visit. ^
 
 Chap. 1 1 1 .J VI TI LE VU. 225 
 
 After some conversation about the Government he said, " We 
 offer you pigs and yams ; we are poor and have nothing else.'' 
 I said, '■'■ I thank you ; we will accept a few yams cooked, with 
 pleasure, and if it pleases I will give the pig to those who came 
 with us (Ratu Luke, &c.). At this there was a chorus of pleasure, 
 and they said that it was done vaaka vitiJ'' In about an hour and 
 a-half the food was brought to the door, amid the shouts of the 
 people outside. " Pig ! yam !" and we went and directed its dis- 
 posal, and were then at liberty to walk about the town and buy 
 clubs, &c., which we did to some extent for an hour or so. Then 
 back to eat something, and made a present to the chief, who at 
 first said he would come on board, and then excused himself. 
 We tried to get canoes and to get boats, but without success, and 
 at last resolved to walk back by the beach, down two miles of 
 flat to the beach, and on, three or four miles along it, raining 
 hard. 
 
 February -T^rd. — Came away at 8 ; got to Navula passage at 
 II, and to the anchorage off" Nandi river at 2. Went in p.m. to 
 see Tui Nandi,t a stupid fellow. A nasty, dirty village, and a 
 walk to it through swamp and mud. 
 
 February Ji^th. — At 6.30 left for the shore in the bottom of the 
 bay. There landed and found horses at 7.30; the natives ran 
 away from Tim's red coat. Rode to Mr. Gordon's, and met the 
 settlers ; went to the beach at 4, and off to the ship. 
 
 February c^th. — Weighed at 5.45, and steamed over to Vuda 
 point; got the chief of Sabeto and the old chief of Vuda on 
 board, and gave them a present of cloth each, because they had 
 behaved well to the whites and kept order in their country. The 
 young chief of Sabeto, who was also there, had considerable life 
 and fun about him, and was the best fellow of the three. When 
 the interpreter went in, in the whaler, to the river up which 
 is the town of Vuda, all the people were up the trees looking 
 at us. 
 
 * After the fashion of Fiji. 
 f Chief of Nandi. 
 
 Q
 
 226 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 Weiglied at lo a.m. and went on inside Votia, anchoring ofif 
 Ba at 2.15. The main reef all along is remarkably clear out of 
 water, and can be seen very distinctly indeed, and the edges of 
 some inner reefs have stones piled upon them, which makes them 
 very clear to be seen. 
 
 February 6ih. — Started from the ship at 5.15, and got aground 
 on the bar of the Ba river about a mile from the ship ; reached 
 the mouth of the river at 7.45, and Mr. Macintosh's at 9; bathed 
 and breakfasted, and went up to Vuni Samaloa, a good planta- 
 tion, conducted on a fairly large scale compared with other 
 plantations about here. This river is rather disappointing ; I had 
 expected to find it as rich and good as Navua and Nandi together, 
 but there is a good deal of the old original dead red and yellow 
 marl under the alluvial soil, and indeed on one side of it, where 
 the river runs into the hills, there is no alluvial soil at all. There 
 may be 18,000 or 20,000 acres of flat land in all this district. The 
 hill of Karowa was the chief town of the mountain district, and 
 the town itself was perched on a hill of 3,000 feet in sight of the 
 sea. Vunisamaloa is about ten miles from the mouth of the river. 
 Had a meeting of settlers at Mr. Macintosh's. Left to come down 
 at 6.0, and by pitch dark were at Mr. Lindberg's, two miles from 
 the river's mouth, waiting for the pinnace, and devoured by flies. 
 We had, by the way, stopped before dark at Tui Ba's town, and 
 saw him there in a tiny house with thirty people in it. Got over 
 the bar without touching, and on board by 9.30 wet through. 
 
 February ith. — Weighed at 2.40, having had several English 
 residents on board, and got at 5. to Tavua. 
 
 February ZtJu — The English settlers came on board ; weighed 
 at 11.30, and went on through very narrow places to the Annami 
 Islands, and anchored at Nananu-i-Cake. 
 
 February ()t/i. — Weighed at 8.30. Going eastward the coast 
 becomes more and more interesting, and covered with vegetation, 
 from decomposition of volcanic conglomerate, and some of the 
 bays and ravines on the Korotoba coast are quite pretty, especially 
 a bay of Ratu Ezekeli's. 'I'he passage through the reefs east of
 
 Chai>. Ill.j BAU. 227 
 
 the Annamis is not near so difficult as I expected ; we took the 
 outer passage, and all was as plain as could be. Got to Levuka just 
 before dark, and agreed that it is more lovely than any bit of the 
 coast. 
 
 • •••••• 
 
 February 25///. — Weighed at 12.30, and came on to Bau, where 
 we got at 4.30, but the sun was so low that it was impossible to 
 get in," and had to anchor at a depth of ten fathoms. 
 
 February 26///, — Moved in till we touched the bottom abreast 
 of Viwa, further than any one had yet been in, in a " man-o'- 
 war." 
 
 March \st. — The steam pinnace of the Fijian Government came 
 alongside at 10 a.m. with Mr. Woods, and told me that the " Mac- 
 Gregor " had got on shore at Galoa in broad daylight, and had 
 struck the middle shoal, running up so high that her stem is 
 7 ft. out of water and her stern right down. I at once determined 
 to send the Pearl down, and to wait on board the " Renard " 
 schooner for the chief's decision about the Government. 
 
 Mr. ^^'oods says that the " Tartar " and " Star of the South " were 
 both at her, and that the Tartar carried away her 13 in. IManilla 
 hawser and her stream chain. 
 
 The ship started at 4, and I, the Consul, Peny, the interpreter, 
 my boat's crew and cook went to the schooner ; then on shore. 
 Met all the people coming out of church, and talked to Ratu 
 Kini and the chief of Rewa j also to Savanaga, and then went to 
 Cakobau's house. 
 
 March yd. — In p.m. went for a walk on the main land, and 
 found some sago palms, which they call /ogo logo ; they make 
 viandrai\ out of it. These were growing wild on a hill top, 
 covered with reeds and grass. All of this country is more or less 
 like Viwa, alternate slopes of grass and cane, and rich hollows 
 full of ivi, breadfruit, and other trees, which grow willingly in a 
 
 * From not being able to see the reefs. 
 
 t A sort of bread made of decomposed vegetable matter. 
 
 Q 2
 
 :'28 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 rich soil. The people here seemed to be quite unused to the 
 sight of Europeans. They brought otferings of yam and pudding, 
 and the women wore Ukiis only in some cases. One great 
 monster, with a dog face and a freshly-limed head, roared and 
 shouted with laughter; and the women seemed altogether a 
 familiar lot, and different from the usual chctivc frightened 
 creatures, but hideous and dog-faced. 
 
 March 6t/i. — It rained in torrents till I got to the Renard, which 
 had gone out a little way and then anchored again, weighed, and 
 got out just in time. Had a harassing beat out of harbour, and 
 got clear at 8.30. 
 
 March ith. — Sighted the Pearl at 8.30 a.m., with foretopsail 
 set, and steaming hard at the MacGregor, which was still fast on 
 the rock of Kandavu, Galoa harbour. Went on board at 10, and 
 found she had started her a few feet at 9, and was now wait- 
 ing. Resolved to try her at low tide, at 3. This I did, and 
 started her with the first jerk a few feet. The second jerk," the 
 bower cable of the ]\IacGregor, by which we were towing, parted, 
 and we had all the aftei-noon in getting it in again, wliich at length 
 we did at 8.30 p.m. The squalls at this time were heavy, and the 
 ship seemed to be loosened by them. 
 
 March Zth. — Was intending to give her another jerk at 8.30, 
 when at 7.40 off she came, with the tide and wind and sea, which 
 was, I think, rather greater than before. The journal of the 
 Pearl in my absence has been — 
 
 Monday, 1.15 p.m. — Anchored in Galoa harbour, in seven 
 
 fathoms, near the MacGregor. Sent 14 in. and 11 in. 
 
 cable to her, buoying it Avith boats ; weighed, then 
 
 went ahead full speed, carrying away both in turn. At 
 
 6.5 anchored in twelve fathoms. 
 Tuesday. — Sent diving party. Laid out IMacgregor's S.B. 
 
 anchor and stream cable on her starboard quarter. 
 
 5.30 P.M. — Took MacGregor in tow, and tried her again. 
 
 Stranded the sheet cable and 11 in. hawser. 7.10 came 
 
 into ten and a-half fathoms.
 
 Chap. 111.] STBAMER OT^ SHORE. 229 
 
 Wednesday. — Sent out 6-^ in. hawser to wind ship ; veered 
 to ten shackles on S.B. cable. Laid out 8 in. and /^\ in. 
 hawsers, and got MacGregor's bower cable on board. A 
 party on board MacGregor throwing cargo over. Got 
 her bower chain secured to our sheet cable, and to our 
 after-starboard and port-foremost bitts. 
 
 Thursday. — Finished securing bower cable. At 8, began 
 steaming in four boilers, and heaving on the bower cable. 
 Set foretopsail and foresail. Runners and tackles on 
 bower cable. Stopped steaming 9.55 p.m. Party on 
 board ISIacGregor throwing cargo overboard ; preserved 
 salmon, and all sorts of sugar, rice, and other things. 
 
 Friday. — Fires drawn forward, and went on at 8, full 
 speed. Hove in on port cable. Hove more cargo over 
 in A.M. and p.^r., 300 tons, about ;^8ooo worth alto- 
 gether. 
 
 In boats and weighed at 12, steamed till 4, then made sail 
 to a nice breeze, going six knots. The reef of the east end of 
 the north rocks is a long way to eastward. 
 
 March ()ih. — Reached Bau at 9 a.m. Weighed soon after, and 
 went back to Levuka under sail, making six tacks in the passage 
 through the main reef, and at the second tack getting within a 
 ship's breadth of the reef. Got to Levuka at 6.30 p.m. 
 
 • •••••• 
 
 March 30///. — Left Levuka. Target practice in p.m. Got off 
 Mango Island at 6 p.m., landed Mr. Ryder, made sail, and beat 
 up two tacks, which brought us, 
 
 March 2,^st — at 6 a.m., to windward of the reef off Vanua 
 Balavu. Some cultivation on Munia Island, and coffee on the 
 island of Ticobia, which is said to be very good. Ran in under 
 sail, under Hosken's pilotage ; met Maafu's coxswain half way 
 out, who took us in hand, and passing to the south of Somo Somo 
 Island, put us very neatly inside, in seven fathoms, ahead of a
 
 230 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 line of cutters and schooners. One man-of-war, an American, 
 had been here before, but came in under steam. It was tho- 
 roughly well done by the pilot. Good piers, and altogether a 
 neat-looking place. I landed and saw Maafu, and asked him to 
 come off in the evening. Went to see the missionary, who 
 speaks well of Maafu, and highly of King George of Tonga. He 
 says he is so just, and such a really constitutional king. At 
 4 P.M. walked about the village, which is very neat; walked up a 
 hill, and saw Dracpena in flower. Went into Maafu's house, and 
 talked to his wife, a nice, fat old lady. One of his servants or 
 people just like a gipsy. They have several little hawksbill 
 turtle in a trough, and feed them on small bivalve shell-fish. 
 
 At 8 P.M. our band played on Maafu's green, all the people of 
 the town coming out to listen, and sitting in a big circle on the 
 grass talking. Tongans in good force, and very pleasant fellows, 
 I think. In the interval of the band playing they sang. I sung 
 out vinaka* when their song was over, so next time that the 
 band played the Tongans shouted Mdlieh ! Mdlich ! which in 
 Tongan is equivalent to bravo ! 
 
 April isf. — Maafu's men exercising on the beach, 180 rank and 
 file, of whom 140 with rifles, or arms of some sort; and 150 
 in red jackets. When countermarching the men without red 
 jackets were kept cleverly always away from the ship, so as to be 
 hidden. The manoeuvres were most amusing, forming four com- 
 panies, radiating from a centre, and wheeling round and round ; 
 then making an extraordinary double circle round the colours, 
 and marching endlessly round it. But they did a bayonet exercise 
 admirably, and wheeled the half battalion up to change front 
 well. At 10.30 I went on shore, seeing that Maafu had collected 
 a great pile of yams, a turtle, and fowls for us, to receive it. I 
 sat there and received it from him, and wished health and lotu, 
 and success and peace to the land. The turtle was immense and 
 fat, and weighed at least 450 lbs. The yams must have weighed 
 
 * Good, or well.
 
 Chap. HI.] TONGA NS. 231 
 
 two tons. I took all, as it seemed to indicate a great chief to do 
 so. Then went to look at the men drilHng again. They finished 
 by a Fijian war-dance and shout, the men rushing out and vohm- 
 teering, "This is the ckib that shall destroy your enemies," 
 " With this weapon I will confound all who oppose you," and so 
 on, as in " Fiji and the Fijians." 
 
 Landed small-arm men in p.m., 120 rank and file. The men 
 crowned the beach and opened fire, and the Tongans shouted 
 Mdlieh ! Maafu dined in the wardroom, and we all landed at 
 8 P.M., and went to hear the band again in his compound. 
 Only Tongans came ; the Tongan girls greatly pleased with the 
 Japanese fans we gave them. The Tongan teacher's family came 
 on board, four nice little girls. The women carry their fans at 
 once gracefully and properly, like Spaniards. I told Maafu to 
 abolish flogging the women, and he promised to do so. Took 
 him a present of soap, drill, blue jean, scissors, combs, &:c., &c., 
 which I hope will filter through to the people. He is certainly a 
 pleasant fellow to deal with — an open, bold man, without lying 
 devices ; fearless, and inviting confidence. 
 
 April 2nd. — Rode with Charlie Maafu and Mr. Gwynne to the 
 plantation of the latter, and of Henry Miller, a half-caste, who — 
 with his nice bright-eyed wife, also a half-caste Tongan — lived in 
 a nice bright, clean, fresh Tongan house, with plenty of mats, and 
 lots of windows. I like these Tongans ; they have brains. I 
 like them, too, that they don't ape European manners, but live in 
 their own manner. At Henry Miller's was a half-caste Tongan 
 lad whom I saw in Maafu's yacht, and Miller said he was wrecked 
 in the Rotumah. I remembered that the Blanche had sent me 
 his box on board, and told him to send for it. 
 
 Got on board at noon, and sailed at 2.30, getting out by 5.0. 
 Made sail and drifted to Mango by April 3, 8. 30 a.m. Landed, 
 and were received by five brothers, Messrs. Ryder, who live here 
 with more ease and comfort than I have seen elsewhere. We got 
 into small boats, and went through a gateway in the limestone 
 rock, about 35 ft. wide, and 40 ft. high, into an oval lagoon, two-
 
 232 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 thirds of a mile long, and a quarter of a mile wide ; pulling 
 across, landed at a pavilion-looking boathouse, and walked up a 
 wide road, through another great barrier of limestone, 100 ft. 
 high and 60 ft. wide or more, with beautiful vegetation ; great 
 vines or lianas hanging in festoons, &c. Here I found four land- 
 sliells, in an instant : the limestone is full of them. The man- 
 grove or tiri bush, at the water's edge, produces, or rather ex- 
 hibits, oysters, with very heavy shells growing upon it, which we 
 eat at supper, and found \ery good. Passing through this we 
 came to the open cleared ground of the plantation, which is 
 simply admirable. Five hundred acres of undulating land, all 
 very fit for sugar, but now under cotton, nothing else, save a small 
 nursery of cane : lunched on sucking pig. Walked to the boat, 
 and came away very much delighted with our trip. Filled and 
 made sail, and drifted down to Taviuni, off which we arrived 
 
 April ^t/i — at 7 on Saturday morning. 
 
 April 6th. — Landed at 7, and rode to Salia Levu, Mr. Rich- 
 ardson's place, on a capital horse of his, bred in Otago. Fine 
 land on easy slopes throughout, and there would be no difficulty 
 whatever in making roads across. The gradients are easy. A 
 good bathe, cricket, lunch, (Sec. Endless viekcs, the men admir- 
 ably dressed as to their heads, and most picturesque. Solomon 
 islanders danced a circular dance, with panpipes and spears, 
 looking like satyrs, in attitude and expression. Tui Vuna sent 
 me a pig and yams. 
 
 April Sl/i. — Weighed at 6.30, and got to Somo at 12. The 
 pig jumped overboard : this is number three. Went on shore at 
 4.30, and saw Tui Cakau, who lives in a large but untidy house. 
 Stayed a moment, and then went to bathe, and then to see the 
 Lovoni men practising a ///eke. Not in good heart, I should say, 
 and it seemed that they thought it hard to sing songs in a strange 
 land. Most of them knew Mr. Moore, our interpreter, and came 
 uj) to speak to him with a smile. Tui Cakau, by the way, had 
 sent me a present, from the ladies — of four fine turtle and a pile 
 of yams. I took two turtle and some yams, and asked him to
 
 CiiAJ'. III.] TAMUNI. 233 
 
 cook the rest for the meke. About sixty of our men came on 
 shore, and we had a woman's meke, the best part of which was 
 led by an old wife of Tui Cakau, daughter of a Bau chief. One 
 of the dances was a representation of a brood of fowls; their 
 supper, roosting, waking lively and feeding, verj' lively and clever ; 
 the women admirably dressed, and a good deal of liveliness in 
 their movements. 
 
 April ^t/i. — Left the ship at 6.40, and got a party of twenty to 
 carry our food, chiefly Fotuna men and Tongans, who seemed to 
 enjoy it thoroughly. AVe had six wardroom officers, two selves, 
 and about eight planters. I took a barometer, thermometer, and 
 saucepan, but all was done ill, and I doubt if I had a measure- 
 ment. 
 
 The barometer showed : — 
 
 28.92 on board ship. 
 
 28.14, 7-3° A.M., at the head of a long slope, fit for good culti 
 vation. 
 
 26.95, S A.M., at a sacrificial stone. 
 
 25.24, 9.14 A.M., at little house built for me. 
 
 25.00, 9.30 A.M., on the top of the hill, the highest point. 
 
 My coxswain, who carried it, then let it fall, and it did not 
 speak true. I put the top at about 2700 feet, and the lake at 
 2200. The temperature of the air at the highest point was 76' 
 going, and 74° coming back. The lake, 13 ft. to 14 ft. all 
 over, lying nearly N.W. half W., by S.E half E. — a long ova! 
 water about three quarters of a mile long ; and we walked over 
 three quarters of a mile of mud, always up to our ankles, some- 
 times up to our knees, and once or twice deeper still, wlien one- 
 fell into a hole. The rushes grow out of this, and give a little 
 hold and solidity for the foot near their roots. Near the top of 
 the hill Tui Cakau had had a little green hut built, in which we 
 rested pleasantly for ten minutes. We made it 3 i miles to the 
 top, and 5! miles to the edge of the water, by the pedometer. 
 These Fotuna men are very good-looking, pleasant-mannered 
 fellows. We got to the edge of the water at 10.15, ^'^'^ I went
 
 234 COMMODORE COODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 out in a canoe and sounded, and took the temperature of the 
 surface. The day had been fine, with a mist covering the lake. 
 Temperature of surface, 70°. Depth, 13 ft. and 14 ft., and in one 
 or two places 16 ft. Bathed, and then had lunch. 
 
 Started to walk back at noon, and after a good rest at the top 
 of the hill, got to the beach ; signalled for boats, and got on board 
 by 3 P.M., having had a delicious day of good hard work. Took 
 the Fotuna men off to sara sara ■"' the ship. They also, like the 
 Rotumans, are good sailors. Dressed, and at 6 received the 
 planters. 
 
 Landed again at 8.30, and went to the square. Malua t for a 
 good half hour, and at last Tui Cakau came, and the Meke began 
 with a vigorous spear dance by the Wairiki men ; this was fol- 
 lowed by the Lovoni men giving a fan dance, and the Somo Somo 
 men first an invocation before battle, and then a thanksgiving 
 after battle ; the spear and the thanksgiving dances both very in- 
 teresting, lively, and quick. About 10.30 p.m. he made me a pre- 
 sent of a small heap of yams, and three head of tortoiseshell, and 
 I gave him my assortment, as to Maafu. 
 
 After this entertainment, which was to go on all night, we went 
 to his house, and I gave him a compliment, by saying I was glad 
 to have seen him in his own house and town, because I now knew 
 what it was to be a chief. Came on board at 11.30. very tired, 
 with a club Tui Cakau gave me. 
 
 April lot/i. — Weighed at 6.30. Steamed to Vuna Point, and 
 picked up Mrs. Brooks, wife of the missionary, who was launched 
 through the surf which the S.S.W. wind was blowing on shore. 
 She kept her presence of mind, although whirled nearly up to the 
 yard arm. 
 
 April wt/i. — Stood between Gau and Nairai, and got to Le- 
 vuka at about 3 p.m. 
 
 ■" To see. 
 
 t A much-used Fiji word, meaning "no hurry."
 
 Chap. III.] NEW CALEDONIA. 235 
 
 Api'il \\th. — Weighed at 4 p.m., and ran out of the Waitovu 
 passage under sail. Breeze too light altogether. 
 
 April i^t/i. — Becalmed, or nearly so, all day. 
 
 April i']t/i. — Ran into Galoa Bay. 
 
 April iSI/l — The steamer, the " Mongol," came in with mails 
 and passengers for England, from New Zealand ; so fresh and 
 bright coloured they all looked. Decidedly one should go to 
 New Zealand for everlasting youth, for women at all events ; they 
 never get old. 
 
 April 19///. — The mail steamer from Sydney hove in sight, and 
 came within a mile of the entrance, and then gave up and turned 
 out again at 6 p.m. 
 
 April zoih. — She did not appear till close on 8 a.m., and was 
 therefore a full fourteen hours outside, when she might have come 
 in to a proper harbour. Rochefort and Pascal Grousset were in 
 this steamer, escaped from New Caledonia. 
 
 April 21st. — Weighed at 11, and made sail at 1. 15, and im- 
 mediately went ten knots. Ran 250 in twenty-two hours, highest 
 speed, 1 1.2. 
 
 • ••••• 
 
 April 24///. — At 5.40 saw the land of New Caledonia. As the 
 day broke we saw the small sandy islets covered with fir trees, 
 and forming such a contrast to the cocoa-nuts of Fiji. There 
 were cocoa-nut palms, too, in sheltered bays. The hills looked 
 gaunt and bare. A good-sized waterfall, noticed by Brenchley, 
 showed its white zig-zag line in three leaps. We were in the 
 entrance of the Woodin passage by 8 a.m., and had passed Ndua 
 Head, an abrupt hill reft with water-courses, cutting deep clefts in 
 the friable soil. The fir trees, which looked of two sorts, a sort 
 of Norfolk Island, and a sort of Kauri, looked like May poles 
 (dressed), or gigantic hop poles, with a conical cap of leaves and 
 branches, but ha\ing apparently lost their early limbs, and having 
 put out branchlets up the stem, to take their place. Is it always 
 so ? or does this come from poor soil and strong ^\'inds ? At 
 three miles south-east of the entrance we picked up a pilot, a
 
 236 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 capital young fellow, well up to his work. With the wind at east 
 he luffed us round the point, with all sails shaking, and took us 
 up to our anchorage very well indeed, about two cables outside a 
 corvette, and we were at anchor by 12.20. Boarded at once by 
 the captain of the port, &c., (S:c. 
 
 The whole place looks as if French money was being spent 
 Avith both hands, and I heard soon after that the home govern- 
 ment spends about 4,000,000 francs a year on the transportation 
 service. This for over Sooo ij-ansportes or co?idamnes, and 300 
 deportes. Of the transp07'tes there are 2000 on the island of Nou, 
 of whom 1600 are sick, invalids, old, or incorrigibles ; in short, all 
 the worst of them. Others are in camps about the country, 
 making roads or bridges, and a good many in Noumea. The 
 jDublic works which they are about are considerable. A huge 
 barrack for artillery, a fine pier, filling in some marshy ground, «Scc. 
 
 Went at 2 p.m. by appointment to see the Governor, and found 
 an A.D.C. waiting to show me the way; was received with a great 
 deal of ceremony by the Governor and all his staff. 
 
 On board again, and walked at 4.30 with Stanley, passing from 
 a quarry on the east side to a pier on the west side of the town, 
 over undulating hills covered Avith long grass, with isolated gum 
 and other trees of that sort, and bad smelling shrubs, descending 
 after all by the Governor's garden, in which are varieties of fir 
 trees, &c. Went at 8 p.m. to Government House, where were 
 various officers. 
 
 The Governor says he has more than 10,000 people to feed. 
 As yet there are not many cattle in the country, and most are too 
 far away for the consumption of the town and prisons. Beef is 
 now 7|^., and mutton 3^^. per lb. This at all events is cheaper 
 than at Fiji by 2\d. The 10,000 persons to be fed are the con- 
 fined portion of the 8000 coidamnes and 3500 deportes, also 1500 
 troops, infantry and artillery. Arranged to go to the Convict 
 establishment at Nou to-morrow. 
 
 April 2^t/i. — The French ofiicers came at 7.15. Rain Avell set 
 in, and we had to go through it all. There arc 1600 on the
 
 Chap. III.] COMMUNIST PRISONERS. 237 
 
 island, 500 opposite the town, where they go to work, and 11 00 
 about two and a half miles from the town. They were placed at 
 this distance so as not to annoy the veritable colonists. Imme- 
 diately opposite is the peninsula Di/cos, on which are some 360 
 of the deportcs, who are condemned to confinement ^ dans 
 line enceinte foi'tifik^ and it was from there that Rochefort 
 escaped. 
 
 The interesting objects of the trip were, first, the garden of 
 the hospital, in which were some splendid banyan trees, one 
 quite remarkable ; secondly, an old professor of mathematics at 
 Paris, who had taken part in the Commune. But the most re- 
 markable man here is Lullier, an ex-lieutenant of the navy. He 
 was a general under the Commune, and was always a fellow of 
 great energy. On being put on board the transport, he refused 
 to put on a convict dress ; no other was given him, and he re- 
 mained in a cell, with a floor eighteen inches wide (against the 
 side of the ship), for the whole passage, with a blanket for his 
 entire covering. He has been in a cell for the whole time of his 
 stay here, fi\-e months ; altogether eight or nine months of cell. 
 The doctor said to him the other day, " You had better come to 
 hospital, your legs and feet are swollen, and your face too ; you 
 are a subject for treatment. You will only have to put on the 
 hospital dress ; " which is a convict hospital dress. " No," he 
 said, "I won't. J'ainie viieiix crcvcr." They say he is at times 
 mad. 
 
 I was told that a party of eighty-six libercs had made 26,000 
 francs by sugar. 
 
 April 2()th. — Drove in p.>r. with Commandant Jacquemart to 
 the Model Farm. Found an Alsatian and his wife, who told us 
 how she had come out to make the acquaintance of the countr)^, 
 with thirty-six others, and now all were married. 
 
 April 2']t/i. — On shore by 6.30, and drove out to Monsieur 
 Joubert's establishment, to see sugar planting, &c. It is impos- 
 sible to make out the profit and loss on such a place, for con- 
 tinual assistance is had from the Government, in the shape of
 
 238 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. III. 
 
 labour of convicts. One good plan, which M. Joubert seemed to 
 have, was to give a lease of a bit of ground to individual men, 
 and then to let them cultivate it. He has a Chinaman, a Malabar 
 man, and a Polynesian, in competition ; of course the Chinaman 
 does the best. He says that he can't raise such cane as they 
 grow. I saw no large cane. All was in little pipes ; but he says 
 that the cane grown on new ground is always large, but with 
 little saccharine matter in it. He considers his cane quite ripe in 
 two years. It may be cut in eighteen months, but will not be so 
 good. The house neater and better than a similar house in Fiji. 
 On arri^■al, we had a most delicious bathe in the fine rapid stream 
 which runs at the foot of M. Joubert's ground, and is navigable 
 for a considerable distance. He sends his produce down by it 
 to Noume'a. About twelve of us were in the water, English and 
 French. All the Frenchmen swimming as well as the English, 
 and a brother of M. Joubert's going about like an otter, some- 
 times holding himself down to the bottom by a weed or big 
 stone. 
 
 April 2W1. — Drove to " Lans Vata," a sort of bathing place of 
 the Governor's, on a nice little sandy beach. A capital little 
 bungalow, and nice garden. The Governor had come in the 
 forenoon to breakfast with me. 
 
 Ball in p.m. ; very pleasant and friendly. 
 
 April 2()th. — Weighed at 6.30, under steam; made sail out- 
 side. Head swell. 
 
 • • • • • a • 
 
 May ^th. — Head sea, and gale of wind for four days. Close 
 reefs, and reefed courses. Wind headed us away from Brisbane, 
 and on the fifth day I gave it up. 
 
 May (ith. — Very variable Avinds, confused sea ; much lightning, 
 thunder. 
 
 May p/i. — Sighted the revolving light at Sydney Heads at 
 6 A.M., and land at daylight. Wind headed off; beat with 
 varying success, till at 3.45 got up steam and came up, getting to 
 our buoy at 6 p.m. (In Farm Cove, Sydney Harbour.)
 
 Chap. III.] SYDNEY. 239 
 
 SvDNEV, Monday, June i%t/i. — Went all over Mr. Russell's 
 foundry, engine shop, and railway carriage factory ; a remarkable 
 establishment for a colony. Mr. Russell pays ;^i8oo a month in 
 wages, and ^350 a month in salaries. He cannot get his people 
 to work piece-work. They will only work time, except in the 
 manufacture of small articles for railway carriages ; there they 
 find, that on piece-work they can do twenty-five per cent, more 
 than on time. The short-sightedness of such a plan, on the part 
 of the men, is evident, as well as the amount of slavery which 
 there is on the other side. Mr. Russell's place is all on made 
 ground. 'I'he new piston of H.M.S, " Dido " was being made 
 here.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MELBOURNE, LAUNCESTON, TASMANIA. 
 
 July iCt/i, 1874. — Slipped from the buoy under sail at 10 a.m. 
 Got no more than seven miles from land by 5 p.m. Got a fine 
 breeze at 2.30 a.m. 
 
 July iZtk. — Very fine and delicious weather, though cold. Got 
 well in with the land. The boundary of Victoria is marked by a 
 broad belt of trees cut down through the forest, straight over hill 
 and dale ; I hear, like the boundary of the forty-ninth parallel in 
 North America. Rounded Gabo Island, and kept sight of the 
 light for twenty-one miles. 
 
 Jti/y 2ist. — Saw Cape Schank light at 1.30 a.m. Anchored in 
 Hobson's Bay (Melbourne) at 6.30 p.m. Me/no. With very high 
 glass : look out for S.E. wind. 
 
 July 22nd. — Came to the Treasury, and saw the Governor, Sir 
 George Bowen, at noon. In p.m. to the Library, ISIuseum, New 
 Government House, Botanic Gardens. 
 
 July 2yd. — To Williamstown, and to see the Docks. Birthday 
 ball in the Town Hall. How is it, that at Ballarat they pay for 
 working ciuartz by the ton, and that at Melbourne the workmen 
 won't work piece-work at all ? 
 
 July 25///. — A splendid run with the hounds. Drove out with 
 His Excellency in a carriage and four, to the meet, through a 
 beautiful English-looking and thoroughly cleared country, to a 
 house called Ivanhoe, near the village of Heidelberg. At 2.30 
 we began, and had before us a gentle slope of 300 yards, a first-class 
 fence at fifty yards from us, and another at 100 yards beyond 
 that ; the drag then crossed the road at two more fences, and on
 
 Chap. IV.] NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MELBOURNE. 24 1 
 
 through some hollows, and later through larger paddocks, and 
 fences further apart; about nine miles, and finished at Pen- 
 bridge, near the prison. I rode home with Mr. Russell, talking 
 about the country, politics, &c., and inclined to like everything. 
 It is a marvellous country. Perhaps I have begun at the wrong 
 end, seeing the amusements first, but it is interesting to see how 
 thoroughly it has taken hold, and how well the young fellows 
 ride. We came back through Collingwood, through a country of 
 big paddocks, perfectly cleared, and kept for dairy and butcher's 
 grazing. The churches abound there, and everywhere. The blue 
 stone is dull and solemn, but where the windows, &c., have free- 
 stone facings, they may be made lighter. Even red brick com- 
 bines well with the blue stone, which I see lies all about the 
 country, and is not only volcanic but columnar in its structure — 
 the columns, like everything else, being of a large diameter. At 
 Collingwood, as in other suburbs, there was the Free Public 
 Library, reser\-es for cricket grounds or parks, and a Mechanics' 
 Institute. In one reserved ground, a couple of hundred boys and 
 men were playing or looking on at a game of football ; and as a 
 great shout and cheer went up from them at a goal being kicked, 
 I couldn't help cheering too in my delight at the whole spectacle, 
 of a British people, free, prosperous, orderly, and rich, and making 
 such an use of their wealth as it is evident they are doing. Mr. 
 Russell was amazed at my enthusiasm, but I think I have gloried 
 in my countrymen, and in the application of liberal principles to 
 their political and social condition and wants, and in their fitness 
 for freedom, more to-day than I ever have in my life. How I 
 wish Mr. G. could come here, if only for a week. How it would 
 strengthen every liberal conviction, and how proud and happy it 
 would make him. 
 
 July 2W1. — Went to see the coursing at Sunbury. A lovely 
 day. 
 
 July 29///. — Dined at the Club. I spoke of the connection of the 
 colonies with the nav>' ; called the early naval men heroes, and 
 said, '•' I, who should not, speak of these things, because I want
 
 242 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 you to do your part in producing heroic qualities in the naval service 
 — to expect them — to look for them — and by looking for them to 
 evoke them." Darwin-like. 
 
 July ^oth. — Luncheon given by the Mayor in the Town Hall; 
 the great organ very well played by Mr. Summers, of Wells. It 
 is a beautiful hall. 
 
 Baron von Mliller, the botanist, tells me that Robert Brown, 
 the naturahst, of Flinders' Expedition, named a family of Aus- 
 tralian plants after my grandfather — who had traced the con- 
 nection between a family of plants in England and in Denmark — 
 Goodau'a, Goodenacice, and GoodenovicB, which now amount to a 
 considerable number. 
 
 July Tj\st. — Received the Governor with salute. 
 
 August -ist. — Steamed out of Hobson's Bay, and made sail to 
 beat down. The wind variable. Anchored at lo p.m. in the 
 lower part of the bay. 
 
 August 2nd. — Weighed at 6 a.m., and stood down under sail. 
 Wind light and baffling, and had to get steam at 9 a.inl, and 
 furl. Got to the entrance of Port Phillip Heads at 2.30, and was 
 kept exactly an hour steaming thirty-five revolutions, and with a 
 light breeze, to which sail was made, without advancing one inch. 
 I judge the tide to have been running, therefore, 6.2 to 6.5 knots. 
 The eddies boiling on all sides, and the engines now working in 
 a current, now in an eddy, alternately running away, and brought 
 up in speed. Altogether most singular. At last, at 3.30, she 
 took a start, and away she went over the falls, as one may call 
 them, for the water tumbles over a regular bridge into a deep 
 hole inside. 
 
 August \th. — Calm ; determined to put into Port Dalrymple 
 (Tasmania) and there drop my mail for England. 
 
 August ^th. — Saw the land at daylight, and made out the light- 
 house at 8.30 A.M. ; made sail ; picked up a jolly gruff old pilot 
 at 10.30 A.M., who came up. " Well ! will you take us up? How 
 high will you take us ? " He : " What's your tonnage ? " " 1469." 
 
 What d'ye draw?" "19 ft. 10 in." "Haul up the courses!
 
 Chap. IV.] LAUNCESTON, TASMANIA. 24 
 
 o 
 
 Back the mainyard ! This river's very narrow and very dan- 
 gerous ! It runs very narrow, and very awkward, it do ! Where 
 do ye want to go ? " I suggested Swan Bay. He spoke of it as 
 impossible, and said the "Orpheus" had lain in Lagoon Bay; a 
 troop-ship ' of 1000 tons a little higher; the "Beagle" had laid 
 herself on the beach in Bryan Bay. No man-of-war had been 
 here since the Orpheus in 1862. At last, at 11. 15, he let us fill 
 and come on under topsails as far as Lagoon Bay ; then furled, 
 and picking up the river pilot, came on to a large pool, with room 
 for six ships, two miles and a half above Georgetown. Nothing 
 but a clearing, and deciduous trees are wanting [to make this a 
 very pretty, peaceful-looking country. Went to Georgetown, 
 talked to the innkeeper, visited the school, called on the clergy- 
 man, pulled across to the iron mine depot at Ilfracombe or 
 Lempriere. 
 
 August 6th. — The steamer came down last night for us in 
 answer to my telegram requesting that she might do so. Too 
 much fog to get away early, but it lifted, and we got away by 
 9.30, arriving at the Bar of Launceston at 1.45 p.m. The river 
 quite easy of navigation, and we might have gone as high as Win- 
 dermere, about ten or eleven miles below Launceston, had we 
 known the river before the pilot came — i.e., above Swan Bay. 
 The Mayor, &c., came off to meet us. It seems that Sir W. 
 Denison was the man to whom they look back, and to whom 
 they are most indebted for local improvements. He drained the 
 flat opposite the town, and he planned and would have carried 
 out a river cut from Launceston to a great bend, had the people 
 not objected to the employment of convict labour. They speak 
 of him with gratitude. We went to the top of the hill and got a 
 view, and then down and met the mayor, who took us to the 
 gardens, the square, in which is a good fountain, the hospital, 
 the really fine Mechanics' Institute, the Town-hall, &c. All would 
 be wonderful in England for a town of 10,000 inhabitants. Then 
 to the cataract, and up the hill at its back for a view, and so to 
 our hotel to dinner. The place looks dull, and is, I believe, 
 
 R 2
 
 244 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 diminishing in population, owing to the exodus of young men 
 over eighteen or nineteen ; but the heaps of children ought to 
 make up the tally. Here as elsewhere the striking thing is the 
 immense quantity of meat for sale. The butcher's shop is the 
 handsomest in the town. Most people eat meat three times a-day. 
 A regular little British hotel, ultra British, the host with the grand 
 manner of receiving and treating his guest. 
 
 August 7^.— Up at seven, and over the hills beyond the water- 
 fall or cataract, as it is nobly called, being now in a dry time— for 
 the weather has been immensely dry here, though unusually wet 
 on the Australian continent — like a Scotch stream when in flood. 
 When in flood I dare say it may be fine, but it is tamish, and the 
 features of the rock are small, and colours dull. Last night I 
 saw the snow on Lomond Ledi in the setting sun, and this 
 morning snow on the western hills in the rising sunlight. Walked 
 a good five miles up and down hill, and got down at nine for 
 breakfast. The host nobly gave me a trumpeter fish, which was 
 excellent. 
 
 Found at the steamer about forty or fifty ladies, and started at 
 ten. Down to the ship at one with the tide, and soon went on 
 shore to see the iron mines, which were most interesting. Five 
 miles from the beach, and approached by an easy tramway, lies a 
 mountain of iron of apparently inexhaustible quantity, and evi- 
 dently great richness. I picked up bits here and there of brown 
 hematite nodules, kidneys, and magnetic ore, in a wonderfully 
 pure condition, and I should imagine very good indeed. They 
 say that there are 1,000,000 tons on the spot ; it is quite possible. 
 There it is all cropping out of the surface in lumps and rough 
 heaps, and the very earth is as full of iron as it can be. But I 
 could see no plans of the works in progress, or how the place is 
 to be laid out. 
 
 August Zth. — A few went on shore, and shot two wallaby. 
 Heard the steamer was coming down, and down she came, with 
 fifty or so of people, who roamed about until the anchor began to 
 be hove up. Weighed in company with the old pilot, who with many
 
 Chap. IV.] BASS' STRAITS. 245 
 
 a wink and a nod, and wise'saw, took us out and left us. Made 
 sail to a light air from N.E., breaking off to N.W. as the night 
 went on. At the ironworks landing-place we saw a hideous old 
 fisherman, who had lived for thirteen years in his boat, they say, 
 and who has lost the use of his legs. We passed him twice or 
 thrice, and each time he reared up his grizzly old shock head, and 
 held out a bottle, and called out, " What is your lordship's name ?" 
 He has been drunk, they say, for years. 
 
 August gth. — Saw Rodondo and Curtis Island soon after 8 a.m. 
 By 7.30 P.M. saw the splendid light at Kent Islands Group, show- 
 ing over thirty-six miles, I think, and at its proper interval, i min. 
 40 sec. 
 
 August lot/i. — At 8 A.M. found ourselves abreast of the 
 Kent Group. An island of limestone (crystalline), with nice 
 green slopes. Mr. Brownrigg, clergyman, of Launceston, and a 
 born sailor, seems to have visited them in a little boat, to baptise 
 the children, &c., in February, 1872. From his observations it 
 seems that East Cove would be the best place for a coaling-station 
 and position for fresh supplies of sheep and oxen. There seem 
 to be streams of water, which could be dammed for a permanent 
 supply. Saw Kent Light forty-two or forty-three miles off. 
 
 August iit/i. — Made Gabo Light at 11.45 ^•'^^- Very good 
 light. 
 
 Augtist 13///. — At 6.30 off the " Pigeon House," a most curious 
 and remarkable rock standing against the sky on the higher range. 
 At 8. abreast of Jervis Bay ; strongish current against us. Sea- 
 water 61°, instead of the 53° of Bass Straits and Port Phillip. 
 Here is a cause which for all time will make the people of Mel- 
 bourne more energetic than those of Sydney. All this coast looks 
 bare of green, and is covered with dark scrub. 
 
 Picked up our buoy in Farm Cove (Sydney) at 8 p.i\i, 
 
 August 17///. — Went to Staff-Commander Cowhand's funeral.* 
 
 * Captain Gowlland was drowned in Sydney Harbour on August 15th, 
 1874. His grave is within eight feet of that of Commodore Goodenough.
 
 246 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IV. 
 
 August 27///. — Went to Parramatta, to old Mr. Pye's, and saw 
 liis orange-trees. One, fifty years old, is 4 ft. 3 in. in girth at one 
 loot above the ground, and about 35 ft. high 3 a noble tree, with 
 excellent fruit. We had been told that the average value of a 
 tree was \os. a-year, but Mr. Pye says that he offered the owner 
 ot 500 trees on six acres ;!^5oo before a single blossom was out, 
 and his offer was refused. This was a particular property on a 
 very good soil.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 NORFOLK ISLAxXD — FIJI. 
 
 September 12///. — Sir Hercules Robinson came oif at 9 p.m., and 
 ofif we slipped quietly and gently at 9.30, making sail at 11.30 to 
 a good breeze. 
 
 September \^th. — A large dragon-fly and moth last night on 
 board, at seventy or eighty miles from Lord Howe's island, and 
 dead to leeward. 
 
 September 1 7//;. — Bulli coal getting better than the first coal in 
 use, which was Catherine Hill bay. But whereas the former 
 made no smoke, and little deposit in the tubes, and quantities of 
 ashes, this makes less ashes, more smoke, and deposit in the 
 tubes. 
 
 Making sail at 11 A.]\r., a fine lad fell from the main-top-gallant 
 cross-trees, just after letting fall the main-top-gallant sail. He 
 fell horizontally across the ridge rope, and broke his thigh, snap 
 short, the end coming clean through the skin, and making a 
 wound two inches long, bleeding frightfully, besides breaking his 
 arm and middle fingers. He was carried below and Messer put 
 him at once under chloroform. It was an hour before he could be 
 got on to the cot, with his leg pulled straight, poor lad, and his 
 arm and hand set. 
 
 We anchored at 6,15 p.m., having sighted Norfolk Island or 
 Phillip Island, forty miles off; at 1.30 p.m., Phillip Island, beauti- 
 ful from every point ; pearly and then opalescent. The trees were 
 visible on Norfolk Island a long way off. Went right up to an 
 inside billet, and saw the signal at the signal staff : " Pick up a 
 boat." A boat came and said the weather would be fine and we
 
 248 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 could anchor, so I dropped anchor well inside the bearings. The 
 boat contained the chief magistrate, Fletcher Nobbs, and his 
 brother, sons of old Mr. Nobbs. Fletcher Nobbs, the best 
 harpooner and best-to-do man in the island. A ruddy beard, 
 though his mother and his grandmother were Tahitians. All the 
 Nobbs's I saw after had very fair and freckled skins, and brown 
 hair; Miss A. quite fair and pretty, and has been educated in 
 Auckland. 
 
 I asked Mr. Nobbs to ask about a family who would take care 
 of my poor lad, if the landing proved to be good enough. 
 
 September iS///. — Phillip Island still lovely like one of the 
 islands of the Greek Archipelago; red and purple, violet and 
 orange, according to the light. Goats and rabbits crop every 
 blade of young grass from it. Fletcher Nobbs came off to 
 breakfast and reported the landing very good, so I determined 
 to send the boy on shore, and prepared him for it. Went 
 on shore with His Excellency, and landed comfortably, sending 
 off at once to the ship to land the boy. Mr. Palmer and 
 Mr. Still (of the Melanesian mission) were on the pier to receive 
 us, also Mr. Nobbs, a fine dignified looking old man, with white 
 beard, and head well set on. A sprinkling of other people were 
 there, but not the crowd I had expected. I walked up and down 
 with Mr, Still, asking about his work in the Banks' Islands. 
 They are trying to make the Mota prevail over the languages of 
 all the other islands, and will no doubt succeed in the small 
 groups, in the course of years. They have 108 boys and girls 
 now, and expect 70 back in a month or so, in the Southern 
 Cross, with the other two clergymen. They have not been again 
 to NitkapH, and do not intend to go till the year after next. 
 Nukapu as well as Mota is occupied by a Polynesian race, also 
 Aurora Island. Ureparapara has a beautiful great harbour. 
 When we had walked some time the cutter was seen coming from 
 the ship ; we went down, and lifted the poor lad out with as little 
 knocking about as possible ; it was all very happily done ; he was 
 I^uUed in by twelve of the best oars in the ship, who gave way
 
 Chap. V.] NORFOLK ISLAND— FIJI. 249 
 
 easily and gently, but strongly and swiftly. He was soon carried 
 up, and off to the house of Jonathan Adams, a fine, stirring, 
 active fellow, with a nice placid wife, and a married daughter, 
 fine handsome people ; a nice clean large room.* Then to the 
 cemetery, and to the top of the island for a view ; after a short 
 ride, came to Mr. Nobbs' house, and after dinner, and seeing the 
 lad, rode to the Mission. Their land was bought at ^2 an acre, 
 about 1000 acres. Rode off to the cascades, at the north of the 
 island, whither the ship had already gone, and was waiting for us 
 to come round. A very good and easy landing place in this 
 weather. West, or W.S.W., to which the wind had shifted. About 
 twenty boys and twelve or fourteen girls had gone on board, 
 scrambUng up the side, and had looked about everywhere. We 
 went off, and the ship not having anchored, were under way by 
 6 P.M., steaming for Fiji, with a fine breeze. 
 
 September 2ird. — Saw Kandavu at daylight, and Gau at 9 a.]\i., 
 Viti Levu, at 10. At 1.30 the chief engineer reported one ton of 
 coal left. Very hot. Anchored at Levuka at 3 p.m. 
 
 September 2-]th. — Went with His Excellency to church on shore. 
 Service well performed, and singing very good. 
 
 September 2,0th. — Went with Sir Hercules Robinson to Nasova. 
 The Act of Cession was signed by Cakobau and other chiefs. 
 At 1.0 P.M. weighed and got away, with Cakobau and one of his 
 sons on board, clearing the Horseshoe reef well before dark, and 
 seeing Ovalau, 35 miles, at sunset; Hat island or Vatu Rera as 
 the moon rose clearly at 10.30 p.ini., 25 miles at least. At 5 a.m. 
 saw Munia, at 7.40 entered the reef, and anchored in Loma Loma 
 at 9.15 in the same place as before. Maafu and Tui Cakau came 
 on board and signed in Cakobau's presence. Weighed at 12.30, 
 and got into thick weather to north of Taviuni. 
 
 October yd. — Doing all we could to gain the San San passage, at 
 53 revolutions, when off went a blade of the screw. Got in tow 
 of the Dido, which went 7 knots, entered San San in a squall of 
 
 * He was brought to Sydney in December, and by March was able to walk 
 with a stick.
 
 250 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. V. 
 
 rain at Z-Z°i ^^^ stood on past San San island, when suddenly 
 we got 10 fathoms, then 5 fathoms ; let go the anchor on a lump 
 of coral — the ship ashore, quite soft. Lay there till 8.30 p.m., and 
 then pulled her oif by a line to the Dido. 
 
 October ^th. — Rigged a purchase to lift the screw, all went well, 
 and the new blade dropped into its place with a bang. 
 
 October e^th. — Weighed and got over to Macuata. Moved on 
 about 3 P.M., the sun getting very low at 5.30, had to anchor under 
 a small cocoa-nut island. 
 
 October 6///. — Reached Bua in a storm of rain and wind, at 
 2 P.M. The rain holding marvellously to the south of the hills. 
 Went up the river about three miles and found Tui Ba smiling. 
 
 October ^t/i. — Weighed at 5.45, and came on through the Nandi 
 passage, and thence through Mokogai and Makadroga to Levuka 
 at 2 P.M., and anchored off Nasova. 
 
 October \oth. — The English flag hoisted at Nasova ; all going 
 well. 
 
 October 11///.— Went to church on shore; excellent sermon, 
 excellent in spirit and feehng : " How good and joyful it is to 
 dwell together in unity." 
 
 October \ith. — We all went to Waitovu and had a couple of 
 photographs taken of the bathers. 
 
 October iGth. — Weighed at 11 a.m., made sail to an E.N.E. 
 breeze at 12, and went away through the Kandavu sea, north of 
 Kandavu, at 8. 
 
 October \()th. — Passed Hunter island at 2.40 a.m., and Matthew 
 island at 8 a.ini. 
 
 October 2%th. — Made the land at 6.30 a.m., and got to the buoy 
 (Farm Cove, Sydney) at 8.45 a.m. 
 
 October 2'jt/i. — Uncovered Cook's monument at Randwick.
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 the coalfields of new south wales— wollongong and bulli — 
 
 newcastle. 
 
 Sydney. 
 
 November 24///, 1874. — Off by 10 a.m. train to Campbelltown, 
 taking a carriage and horses with us ; left Campbelltown at 1 1.45 j 
 at Appin baited, and visited the school Such hedges of sweet- 
 briar and roses, ail in blossom. The road as far as Appin very 
 good, about ten miles, through a very fair grazing country, with 
 some crops of oats and hay. Then a road of eight or nine miles, 
 across ridges of sandstone, covered with scrub and trees, until 
 we suddenly came to the edge of the great fall or cliff of sand- 
 stone, under which crops out the coal. I should think that it 
 was 1200 or 1300 feet high; but perhaps more, and it is certainly 
 very fine. The crest of the ridge is perhaps two miles from the 
 sea as the crow flies, and it is lovely to see the blue sea and 
 breaking waves. Here the ground falls precipitously to the mile 
 and a half of undulating fields below, while on the western side 
 it slopes rapidly away, the ridge itself being no more than twenty 
 yards wide. The difference in vegetation on either side is re- 
 markable. Towards the sea it is more than semi-tropical ; towards 
 the land the ordinary foliage near Sydney. As we went down the 
 steep, too steep road — too steep for recent engineering work 
 — the palms, three sorts, tree ferns, and Epipleytes, showed out in 
 quantities. I always like the softness produced in the landscape 
 by a dripping wet day, and I liked the view more to-day than the 
 following day. We had left Appin at 2.15, and got to the top of 
 the ridge at 4 p.m., and by 4.40 were at the foot, at BuUi. Here 
 we did not stop, but drove at once to ^Vollongong, through a nice
 
 252 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 undulating country, on a badly-engineered road, among small 
 farms and miners' cottages. On arriving at Wollongong we 
 walked to the port and criticised it. Coming back to the inn we 
 met the lighthouse keeper, and talked to him. He said that the 
 little harbour was dug out to the bare rock, and that thirteen feet 
 at low-water mark was the depth. It had been cut out by hand, 
 under a cofferdam — all government work ; but no charge made 
 for shipping coal from it, or even for the use of the coal shoots. 
 A French barque of 500 tons is the largest ship which has shipped 
 coal hence. " She went away ten days ago, and, my word ! he 
 and his mate, they went about together, and where one was the 
 other was sure to follow ; they were so much taken up with some 
 of the young women, that tliey could hardly get away. It was a 
 fine morning on Sunday, and I went down and cast off their 
 warps at 6 o'clock ; but the captain he comes up and shows his 
 three fingers, and says, at 9 o'clock, ' tree hour,' says he. ' No, 
 no,' says I, 'you must be off;' but away he goes, he and the 
 mate; and I took the ship out into the offing, and at 12 o'clock 
 they gets alongside at last, and comes on the poop, and the 
 captain he takes his double glass and looks, and looks, and waves 
 his handkerchief, and then wipes his eyes, and says, ' Ah ! in 
 eight month I come back ! ' and cries, and mops his eyes again ; 
 and the mate he takes his long glass and looks, and beats his 
 breast with his right hand, and looks again, and there was two 
 girls on the hill ; but, bless you, they was a mile and a half off — 
 they couldn't see nothing. Well, I don't know, I never see such 
 a couple afore ! I suppose they'll be back here some day." He 
 is lighthouse keeper and captain of the port, and, apparently, an 
 East of England man. 
 
 To the hotel and to dinner ; the innkeeper an old steward of 
 Admiral Dundas. 
 
 November 25///. — Up at 5.30, got coffee, and then were told 
 that the man at the hotel had no horses or carriage. At last we 
 got him to put his own horses to our carriage, and Amphlett and 
 I went oif on foot up the line of rails, for three miles, showers of
 
 Chap. VI.] NEW SOUTH WALES COAL. 253 
 
 rain intervening. At the top we saw the steamer just coming in, 
 and so the whistle blew for the men to begin to work. T. and 
 Williams appeared at the same moment, having come in the 
 carriage, and also Mr. Johnson, the viewer or mine captain, or 
 manager ; an intelligent young Englishman from Newcastle, whose 
 father manages mines in Northumberland. He took us in hand, 
 and led us into the mine, which is 1000 ft. long from the cliff 
 side. The mouth of the mine is 660 ft. above the sea. The 
 rail nms hence by two steep inclines and one long gentle one to 
 the shoots at the quay side. There is the usual arrangement of 
 wire rope and drum for hauling up empty waggons with full ones. 
 A small level plot on the hillside gives room for the manager's 
 house, which is building, engine, screens, stables, &c., &c. We 
 went in by an entrance 5 ft. or 7 ft. high, and 8 ft. wide. The 
 shaft goes in N. 56° K, and dips 2° to the N.W. You get at 
 once into an uniform seam of coal, from 5 ft. 6 in. to 8 ft. thick. 
 Coal on each side, sandstone overhead, and slaty black stuff 
 under foot. The latter comes up every here and there in what 
 are called roils, from a foot to 3 ft. high, squeezing up the seam of 
 coal. The mining is as easy as possible. The miner, who gets 
 20s. a ton, or \os. a skip of 10 cwt., merely undercuts the coal 
 with a pick, and the latter falls of itself A man can earn in this 
 way, by filling twelve skips, lo^-., and by filling fifteen skips, 12s. 6d. 
 a day. Boys drive the ponies employed in hauling the skips, 
 and get from 6^-. a day, down to 2s. 6d. a day to the boy who 
 opens and shuts the door which closes the draught. When a 
 man works in a narrow place he gets is. 6d. a yard extra, and the 
 men working shifts get paid by the job. The mine (Mount 
 Keira) employs altogether sixty people, and Mount Pleasant 
 (which is close by) the same ; but Mount Keira is more regular, 
 and gets more coal. The two are getting now about 1000 tons 
 a week. But this is irregularly done, and cannot be depended 
 upon as a statistic. As the demand is irregular, both here and at 
 BuUi, and as the great endeavour is to avoid a double transfer of 
 coal, as a rule, coal is sent up when wanted, and therefore a look
 
 2 54 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 out is kept for the steam collier from the mouth of the mine. 
 When she gets near the port a steam whistle is sounded, and the 
 men all come to work, cutting, filling, and embarking, leaving 
 two-thirds or so of the trucks full when the steamer is loaded. If 
 they be not wanted for another vessel, they then go to their 
 homes— all the most respectable owning small farms or renting 
 land from the company. They are mostly colonial born, though 
 some are English and Irish. This is certainly the paradise of coal 
 miners. The whole of the permanent men only amount to about 
 eleven out of the sixty at Mount Keira. We did not go to 
 Mount Pleasant ; but having walked through Mount Keira for an 
 hour and a half without dirtying anything, we came out. They 
 have as yet come to no water ; but if they do they will have a 
 tough job to get rid of it, as there is nothing to stop its filling 
 the mine. 
 
 Drove down to breakfast, and then started in our own carriage 
 to BuUi, at about 11.45 ; the road very heavy. Got there, the 
 weather having become beautifully fine, at 12.30, and walked at 
 once with the superintendent to the mine, which is about a mile 
 and a quarter from the beach. This is altogether on a better 
 scale than Mount Pleasant, and is under more advantageous cir- 
 cumstances, being nearer to the beach by two miles. En revanche^ 
 they had to make their own jetty. The greatest advantage that 
 they have probably is, that their seam enters the cliff at a rising 
 angle instead of at a dip, and consequently the water, which 
 they have already tapped, and which runs at a considerable 
 volume, runs out of itself. The seam here seems more uni- 
 form than that at Wollongong, and more trouble is taken in 
 screening. They reserve nuts, and only throw away dust ; whereas 
 at Wollongong, nuts are thrown out upon the heap. Three 
 main drivings are sent in from the mountain-side, and well 
 supported and protected. The superintendent told us, with 
 reference to friability, that he could see a difference in the 
 coals even after the exposure of a week in the trucks, sup- 
 posing that a shipment were delayed so long. This would ac-
 
 Chap. VI.] NEWCASTLE. 255 
 
 count for the complaint that came from one of the ships on 
 the China station. There seems to be a difference in working 
 this mine. The men get 2s. ^d. a ton, and lay their own rails, 
 &c., making about the same money. Bulli, like Wollongong, is 
 the paradise of miners. 
 
 • •••••» 
 
 December 1st. — Went on board the '' Coonanbara " at 11 p.m. 
 and had a capital run up to Newcastle. Amphlett woke me at 
 5 A.M., to see the ship go into port ; it looks nasty, without a 
 doubt. 
 
 December 2nd. — Got alongside, and to the Great Northern Hotel. 
 The manager of the Wallsend company came and arranged to 
 take us out to his mine at 11.30; and the harbour-master 
 came, so I went with his assistant to the assisting engineer, 
 and got an idea of the river and works from him ; I like the 
 place much. The general look is not unlike Tynemouth, in 
 Northumberland. Went at 12. to Wallsend, a clearing in the 
 wood. A prettily placed manager's cottage, a church, a school, 
 <S:c. The manager met us, a very understanding man, and has 
 his mine in excellent order; he talked pleasantly to the men. 
 He said that they were on the whole very reasonable, and 
 that they seldom put forward unreasonable requests. ]\Iiners 
 are getting 5^. a ton where the work is straight, y. a yard 
 extra in narrows, and 6^-. a ton where the man has to work 
 under a low roof Mr. Neilson believes that they have Sooo 
 tons of coal in an acre of land, and this company has 9000 
 acres, or 72,000,000 tons of coal; while the Australian Agricul- 
 tural Company has 16,000,000 tons; and Mr. Laidley, of the 
 Co-operative Company, about 12,000,000 tons. There are several 
 others unworked. The coal sent up seemed to me to be preter- 
 naturally large. The men had only been set to work at 12 
 o'clock, as there had been no vessels to load yesterday, it being 
 an unusually slack time. 
 
 I find that the men are only paid once a fortniglit, and do not 
 ask for it oftener ; the masters have a notion it is such a loss of
 
 256 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 time, but we know that 400 men can be paid in an hour at the 
 pit's mouth, by our experience in the dockyards. Pillars are 
 left as supports, and I cannot find that in any mine these pillars, 
 which contain one third of the coal, have been taken away. Where 
 we were looking at the workings, the height was nearly seven feet, 
 the parting was at twenty inches from the top, and a second 
 parting about two feet lower down. I could see no difference 
 between this and any other mine, except that the coal seemed 
 enormously large, both here and at the Co-operative mine, and a 
 good deal smaller at the Australian Agricultural mine. At the 
 Australian Agricultural they were carefully picking out bands and 
 bad pieces at the bottom of the screens, but at the Wallsend and 
 Co-operative this did not seem necessary. After walking about 
 two miles and a half under ground, we came up and returned. 
 Got back to town, and found Mr. Mackenzie, and agreed to go 
 to him in the evening, and then went at once with the harbour- 
 master to see the dyke, &c., which is formed of ballast from all 
 the ships from England, Melbourne, China, San Francisco, Val- 
 paraiso, &c. At the end of our walk, we went to the Wallaroo 
 copper works and tin mines, which are interesting. The Wal- 
 laroo is a South Australian company, who smelt their rich ores in 
 Adelaide, or near Adelaide, sending to Newcastle for coal for it, 
 and employing some seven or eight vessels. They had at Ade- 
 laide a great deal of poor ore, containing, on an average, seven 
 per cent, of copper, and it would not pay to bring coal all the 
 way to smelt it ; but it struck them " Let us ballast our vessels 
 with this poor ore to Newcastle, and let us roast and smelt it 
 with small coal, which is but rubbish now, then we shall make 
 a profit ; " which they do. They have lately added tinworks to 
 these, and are making money, having a capital manager. Men 
 can earn from 8^'. to \os. a day. In the evening to Mr. Mac- 
 kenzie's, to look at specimens of ore and coal. He is quite 
 clear that the six mines are using the same coal vein. He is of 
 opinion that the coals are very friable, and that it might be worth 
 while to send a cargo of Greta or Anvil Creek to Singapore
 
 Chap. VI.] NORTHERN COALFIELDS. 257 
 
 on trial, as it is a splint coal, and far less friable than any 
 other. 
 
 December yd.— Got to the Australian Agricultural Company's 
 ofifice at 8. 30. The manager showed us his pay-sheet for the last four- 
 teen days. They pay every fortnight. Ten days' work had been got 
 in the fourteen, and some of the men had earned ;^i2 between the 
 pair. One had earned ^^14- This would be at from i2j. to 14^-. 
 a day, by getting two to two and a half tons of coal each man. 
 We then rode to the pit, and went down it 180 or 200 feet, 
 much the same as the Wallsend ; and we went to the workings, 
 where men were working off five feet or so, and then coming back 
 to take off the tops, an eighteen inch seam. This is on account 
 of something in the colliery, the coals being better without the 
 tops, and depends, I imagine, on the outcome. We did not come 
 up out of the mine till 12.30, or so. We had met at the end of 
 one working, old Robert, whom Mr. Winship joked with. Robert 
 said, " Well, I think it's time the company gave me a pension ! " 
 I saw he was a soldier, and said, " Why, don't you draw a mili- 
 tary pension ? " "No, sir! "he said. "Were you ever in the 
 army?" said Mr. Winship. "Yes, sir; seven years in the 42nd 
 Highlanders." A regular Scotch built handsome old man. At 
 one face, a fine handsome young man was working, and said 
 something about working more if he could get trucks. " Yes ! " 
 said Mr. Winship, "if you could get leave, you mean ! " It seems 
 that a rule of the trades-union forbids men to send up more than 
 two and a half tons a day, and that the men of the Australian 
 Agricultural pit forbad the employment of two men some 
 days ago, who refused to comply with this rule, and sent up 
 more. 
 
 In P.M. went with Mr. Laidley to see the Co-operative mine, 
 eight and a half miles off, by a special engine and carriage 
 as yesterday. At a strike some years ago, some men branched off 
 from other collieries, and bought land. They started this col- 
 liery, which they called the Co-operative Company, but soon had
 
 258 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VI. 
 
 to borrow money. As they went on, their incapacity for the 
 management of their affairs was day by day shown ; and at last, 
 having borrowed very large sums, the colliery became the property 
 of the man who had advanced the money, and is now paying 
 well.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PORTLAND, VICTORIA— WALLAROO, PORT LIN'CGLX, ADELAIDE, MOUNT 
 GAMBIER, SOUTH AUSTR.\LIA. 
 
 Ja7iiiary ist/i, 1S75. — Weighed from Sydney under sail at 
 9 A.M. ; but off Bradley's Point lost all wind, and had to steam. 
 Met the north east wind outside, which carried us to Botany, and 
 were met by a southerly, not strong. 
 
 January 16th. — Read Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa^ which is 
 admirably -iVTitten. It is something like a book of travel, and 
 takes its place beside Wallace's Malay Ai'chipelago, or even before 
 it, in some points. 
 
 January 20th. — Off Cape Otway [west of Melbourne]. Saw 
 the lights of Port Fairy at 10.30, and Portland (Victoria) at 
 2.30 A.M. 
 
 January 2\st. — Anchored at Portland (Victoria) at 7 a.m. A 
 
 fine bay, very like Portland on the chart, but such a hot wind ! 
 
 I went on shore at 9. Thermometer 114° in the street. The 
 
 editor of the Portland Guardian came up and told us all about the 
 
 place. It seems that a great deal of bark goes hence to England ; 
 
 Mimosa bark for tanning, but it is five years since a ship was 
 
 loaded for England direct. Everything goes hence to Melbourne 
 
 to ship. This little place, with its 2500 inhabitants, has its 
 
 botanic gardens, a number of good-sized buildings, banks, &c., 
 
 the usual assortment of churches, of which the Roman Catholic is, 
 
 as usual, the best in position and appearance. Wages are at is. 
 
 to 8^. a day to labourers ; ^s. and the mid-day meal is a common 
 
 wage ! ! 
 
 January 22nd. — Hastings proposed to have a day's kangaroo 
 
 hunting, and as we found it could be got up without much trouble, 
 
 we got it arranged. 
 
 s 2
 
 2 6o COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 We landed at i, and went to the livery-stables, where were 
 a lot of horses of all sorts, and we went out, eleven in number, 
 from the ship, besides eight men and lads from the shore. 
 Mr. Bevan of the London Hotel owned the hounds, and brought 
 out two yellow hounds, a sort of lurcher, or more like Scotch 
 deer-hounds, and a couple of black greyhounds, a half sheep-dog, 
 and a nondescript crossed ; there were also a capital Irish re- 
 triever and a cross-bred spaniel, eight hounds in all. We rode 
 over a broken light soiled country for five or six miles to Cape 
 Nelson, and catching up one or two kangaroo on our way, what 
 are called brush kangaroo ; but rather refrained from following 
 them till we got on to where the country is open and clear of 
 timber and perfectly sound under foot. Really part of it is like 
 the New Forest, and both Goldfinch and I recalled bits which it 
 resembled. The rushes of the New Forest are represented by the 
 " black boys," which bear a long bulrush-like flower, the heather 
 by many kinds of epacris, and which are still in flower here, though 
 over in New South Wales. Our companions were nearly all 
 immigrants. The innkeeper had got his taste for greyhounds 
 from Somersetshire ; the tanner was from Yarmouth in Norfolk, 
 as also was an old man who acted as huntsman. The livery 
 stable-keeper was from Dublin, and is the breeder of some lovely 
 Irish retrievers of excellent blood, and a butcher came from 
 Derbyshire. We passed by several nice stone cottages on the 
 road, each with its pretty bit of garden, its paddock, cow, and 
 pigs, and I asked who owned them. One was a carpenter, 
 another a shoemaker ; all were tradesmen who have their shops 
 in the town or village. Here is comfort ; and these men had a 
 respectful independence which was very pleasing. Once on the 
 cliffs which look over the sea, we could see the kangaroo 
 splendidly, and soon split off into two or three parties, and had 
 splendid runs. The kangaroo jumped up right and left ; one had 
 to be sharp as a needle and to follow immediately, or else one 
 lost sight of them in a moment ; it was more like coursing than 
 hunting, and great fun. We brought home two whole kangaroos,
 
 CHAr. VII.] PORTLAND. 261 
 
 two whole quarters, six or seven tails, and left two or three on the 
 ground. We killed in all twelve brush kangaroos and one 
 forester, a big fellow, who showed fight, and had to be knocked 
 over with whips. ^V'e all enjoyed it thoroughly, and after about 
 five hours on horseback, came back galloping like fury at about 7 
 o'clock, and so on board. 
 
 Of course there happened to be the bachelor's ball that 
 evening, to which a good many went. 
 
 Jajiuary 2yd. — Went for a walk to the lighthouse ; walked 
 through the public gardens. Very nice gardens, very pleasant, and 
 well-ordered for a town of about 2500 people. There are great beds 
 of gladiolas, splendid geraniums, and lovely roses. Although the 
 third day's hot wind only ceased yesterday, I have a lovely nose- 
 gay of great big gladiolas, lilies, &c. There are some good pine 
 trees too, and an oak or two, and some variegated holly. De- 
 cidedly it is a good place. Coming back I met with INIr. Henty, 
 the first arrival here. Forty years ago last November he first 
 landed. He described his meeting with Mitchell and the survey- 
 ing parties. How jNIitchell took him and his companions for 
 escaped convicts, and he took Mitchell and his party for bush 
 rangers. Then how he cut his way through the bush to 
 Wonnon country, which is the country of Victoria. I brought 
 him and various other people on board to luncheon, and after 
 sending them away at 3, got under way and stood out. Wind 
 S.S.W. veering to S.E. 
 
 January 24///. — Passed Cape Northumberland at 5 a.m. 
 Running all day along low sand-hills. At 6 made up my mind to 
 run to the southward of Kangaroo Island, having had a first-rate 
 bearing of Cape Bernalli light at 4.30. Wind fresh, S.E. by 
 S,, and going eleven knots. I had a lurking suspicion that there 
 might be currents, and left orders to be called at 2 to look out for 
 them. 
 
 Jamiary 25///. — But at 2 I heard a cry, and jumped up ; a 
 man came to the door, and asked me what I wanted. I — "What 
 is the matter ? " He, meekly — " Breakers on the lee bow." And
 
 262 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 I heard Hastings say — " Hands by both anchors." Coming on 
 deck there it was, the "Young Rocks," which I had steered to 
 clear by fifteen miles, and which we should not have been up to 
 by 3.30, were under the bows, with a raging surf upon them. We 
 hauled out south-west from west, and then saw the southern one, 
 with a high sea upon it; and at 2.30 were ofifupon our course 
 again. A lovely, clear, moonlight night. Saw Kangaroo Island 
 at daylight ; the wind freshening, and so thick that, after running 
 between Gambier and Thistle Island, I gave up the idea of going 
 into Port Lincoln, and went up towards Wallaroo. 
 
 January 261/1. — Got into eleven fathoms at 7 a.m., and at 3 
 saw the Tipana Light vessel. Anchored at Wallaroo at 2 p.m., 
 and was boarded by the captain of the port, and arranged 
 to see the copper-smelting with him at 3.30. The copper pyrites, 
 which contains a large quantity of sulphur, is roasted to drive off 
 the sulphur. The ore is then crushed, and then sent to a furnace 
 for reduction, whence it comes out as rcgiiliis, with fifty per cent. 
 of copper in it. It is then put in a fresh range, and comes out 
 rotigk copper, with seventy-five per cent., whence it goes to be 
 reduced. A portion of this regulus is put in with the ore to flux 
 it. A labourer earns here 7^-. a-day, and the men who lead at 
 the ultimate refining furnaces ;^4 a-week. The men work tie and 
 tie — /. (?., from 5 p.m. to 5 a.m., and 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. There is no 
 public school yet in Wallaroo ; and as boys get from is. 6d. to 
 y. 6d. a-day, their labour is valuable, and they all work, without 
 much regard to Factory Acts, &c. We afterwards went to the top 
 of the town — ill-laid out and unimproved ; no gardens, nothing to 
 humanise or cultivate eye, taste, or mind ; no supply of water 
 but what is drained from the surface into muddy tanks. 
 
 January 27///. — Went at nine to Mooiita by rail, and returned 
 at 5 p.m. a rail omnibus goes the whole way, and it is surprising 
 there should be no locomotive. Moonta stands 100 ft. high, and 
 the distance is ten miles. The populations of these places are 
 roughly — Moonta, 10,000; Wallaroo, 3000; Kadina, 7000; say 
 20,000 in the three to^vTiships.
 
 Chap. VII.] WALLAROO. 26 
 
 J 
 
 This is the barest, driest spot conceivable ; since Valparaiso I 
 have seen nothing so dry. There was once scrub and grass, now 
 there is a relic of each, and much dust. All the timber having 
 been taken off for fuel for miles and miles, all is red hot and 
 dusty. The thermometer stood at 90"^ on board the ship at 7 p.m. 
 At Moonta, Mr. Hancock, the captain of the mines, met us, 
 driving a very nice pair of horses, and carried us to his office to 
 see the plans of the works. 
 
 The Moonta Company own all the land but that on which two 
 mines are situated, the Parramatta and Yatta. The lodes are 
 three, running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and each dipping at about 45° 
 from the horizon. At intervals ladders go down these shafts, and 
 at every fifteen fathoms, or ninety feet, galleries are driven. The 
 plans show — 
 
 ist. The horizontal projection of the drives. 
 
 2nd. The place on the plane of the dip of the stratum. 
 
 3rd. The surface survey. 
 
 These are kept up by practical men, who have the duty of 
 directing the drives and levels. There are also underground cap- 
 tains, who direct the whole works ; of these there are seven. 
 There are also foundries and smitheries above ground. Some of 
 the men work tribute, and some work at so much for each ton of 
 stuff sent up ; and in each case the manager must make careful 
 assays, and must carefully price the stuff. With tributers he fixes 
 the per-centage of profit which the lode, from its general appear- 
 ance, ought to give to the tributer, and each two months it is put 
 up at that price. In the other case, the value has to be put on 
 each ton of stuff raised to the surface. Besides these there are 
 men who lay rails, others who drive shafts and do odd work. 
 Generally each man secures his own work by shores, &c. The 
 company pays for timber, but the miner for candles, gunpowder, 
 and fuzes and tools. When water is short, the company sells it 
 from its tanks, which are filled from surface drainage, or by con- 
 densing mine water, at is. per hogshead, or y. per ton. Once on 
 tribute two miners made ^500 in two months; this was, of
 
 264 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. ' [Chap. VII. 
 
 course, by a lucky hit, the claim being offered at a much lower 
 figure than it turned out to be worth. 
 
 We then all dressed in miner's dress and went down, candle on 
 hat, to the seventy-five fathom range ; and there, walking along a 
 level, came to a great excavation of very rich ore, twenty-eight 
 per cent, or more of copper, which looked purple and yellow and 
 peacocky, and all sorts of colours. The miners all pleasant and 
 civil, and seemed glad to see us. 
 
 Our dip down stairs took us a couple of hours. Mr. Hancock 
 was much more done than we were ; we ran up the last fifteen 
 fathoms, to the great astonishment and amusement of three 
 miners who were sitting at the top. 
 
 It seems that there was a strike here six months ago. The 
 management wanted to reduce the wages, and the men, as usual, 
 won. I was obliged to say that I was all for the men, and very glad 
 the wages did not go down. They do not seem to me the least 
 excessive. High wages mean to me a prosperous people ; and of 
 course I wish to see them prosperous. There are about 1500 
 men and boys at work. It seems that the Government established 
 a township, and let the land on mining lease. By-and-by the 
 miners built tiny cottages on the mining ground, setting them any- 
 how ; so that now there is a town of Moonta, full of shops, 
 churches, post-office, banks, &c. ; and a town at Moonta mines, 
 whereat there is no shop or other public edifice, but one church ; 
 and the two are over a mile apart. The same thing happens at 
 Kadina, twelve miles in another direction. As every miner builds 
 his own house, they are rough, though comfortable, and set 
 at all possible angles to the meridian. They keep their houses 
 very clean inside, and as they always have big tubs of water after 
 work, are clean themselves. At Moonta township is a large 
 AVesleyan church ; it has the predominance here ; a very neat 
 little English church ; and Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Bible 
 Christians, &c., &c., in great numbers. There is little drunken- 
 ness ; but, as in Wales, a good deal of keeping comimny of boys 
 and girls, &c. At Wallaroo i)ort, where there are more Welsh
 
 Chap. VII.] COPPER MINES. 265 
 
 among the settlers, a Mr. D., an excellent man, has service in 
 Welsh every Sunday. By chance we spoke of the Aborigines, and 
 found that a few people were trjdng to collect them together on a 
 good piece of land, and to start them with a few sheep. As our 
 informant said, " It is the least we can do for them. We have 
 taken their country, and we ought to maintain them in an honour- 
 able retirement, like an old horse which you turn out to grass- 
 supposing we can do no more for them." 
 
 January 28///.— Went to see the metal run from different 
 furnaces, then to the office and Institute, which has a library and 
 little museum ; then out to Kadina, a large party of us, to see the 
 mines there. The manager said that when he came there, five 
 years ago, out of twenty-seven boys employed but nine could 
 read, and but seven could write. There is no public school at 
 Kadina yet, but he has established a library and reading-room, 
 and has built a church and schoolroom at one mine which is 
 isolated from the others, and goes there to hold school every 
 Sunday. \'ery hot indeed, but we walked about fearlessly in the 
 sun, and were photographed. At 4 we came down, and at 5 I 
 came on board, and found a host of people had profited by the 
 permission and fine weather, and had come on board in crowds. 
 As they came in ver>' few boats which went back at once for more, 
 by the time I came back the ship was full ; and when I sat in my 
 cabin I could hear, as they peered down the skylight, " Beautiful 
 flowers ! " in every variety of voice and tone, as they looked at 
 my Portland flowers, still fresh and lovely, great beauties of 
 gladiolus, geraniums, &c. 
 
 Weighed at 7 p.m. Beating and thrashing about all night; split 
 fore and mizen topsail and mainsail. 
 January 29///. — Beating all day down the western shore of the 
 
 Gulf. 
 
 January loth. — Got fairly to windward by 6 a.m., and kept 
 away between the islands for Port Lincoln, where we anchored at 
 1 1.45 A.M. A beautiful bay and anchorage, with hills of moderate 
 height running round, and an island barring the entrance. " All
 
 2 66 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 the fleets of the world " might anchor in it in safety ; but, alas ! it 
 is the outlet to nothing, and is condemned to no further advance 
 apparently till railways are made and the land is thickly peopled. 
 It has but 400 people, but possesses a Church of England, 
 a Roman Catholic, and a Wesleyan Church ; an institute ; 
 also a good, roomy, pleasant-looking hotel. I sent on shore 
 at once, to get a trap to take us to Poonindie, the mission 
 station ; and we landed at i p.m., six of us, and were met by the 
 magistrate. 
 
 A fair trap came round, and off we went, pursuing Mr. 
 Newland, the farm manager, till he stopped at the gate of a nice- 
 looking vineyard, belonging to the clergyman of Port Lincoln. 
 Drove six miles along the sea-shore, by a first-rate road, and four 
 miles across a gravelly flat, with scrub, and came to the gate of 
 Poonindie, and found the chaplain there. The houses for the 
 natives are disposed down a sort of avenue, and consist of 
 generally one, and at most two rooms. The number of the natives 
 is small ; there are but fifty-eight men, women and children alto- 
 gether present, making, with sixteen out on job-work, seventy- 
 four. These they house and keep as long as they like to remain^ 
 taking only good characters. They are obliged to work, and 
 receive wages for their work from 2 0j-. a week downwards, the 
 best hands being paid by the week, and others by task. To look 
 after these there are five whites ; the superintendent, who is the 
 clergyman, the schoolmaster, the farmer, the cook and baker, and 
 the head ploughman. After paying their expenses, they pay 
 ;j^4oo a year into some fund, as a nest-egg, to enable the work to 
 be carried on without government assistance, or on reduced 
 government land in future. Three hundred acres of land were 
 under wheat last year, and an acre gave an average of five 
 bushels ; and they have 10,000 sheep. The policy is, I hear, dis- 
 puted (of having such a place) ; but it must be the right and 
 honourable thing to do, to provide an asylum for those people 
 who have been dispossessed of their land. The work seems to 
 be done with thorough good sense, and there are no luxuries.
 
 Chap. VI I. j POR T LINCOLN. 267 
 
 Their great acreage of stubble and the sheoak standing in it 
 looked much like olives in the south of France or Spain. I'hcy 
 have a patch of very good land on their property, which is, alto- 
 *gether, five miles square, or 16,000 acres. The country might be 
 very pretty in spring, as the trees are scattered on the hill-side 
 like park land ; but the foliage is of the very dullest. Although 
 only ten miles from Port Lincoln, it answers better to pay the 
 steamer 5^-. a ton additional freight to bring the stores to Lowth 
 Bay, which is four and a half miles. 
 
 Drove back to Port Lincoln at 5.30. Met a squatter, who 
 lives half-way to Streakey Bay, and has no less than nine 
 Chinese shepherds, one of whom is married to a native, and 
 three to English women ; the children, he says, are not bad- 
 looking. 
 
 January i\si. — The clergyman and several others came off, some 
 to church and some to luncheon. They all say that owing to poison- 
 ing wild dogs and the disappearance of the natives, the kangaroos 
 have grown and increased so as to be a perfect nuisance, and eat 
 up the grass which ought to feed sheep. The squatters give yl 
 a piece for skins to get rid of them. They lately drove a hundred 
 into a stockyard, having first surrounded several hundred. Un- 
 fortunately no one has dogs, or one might do something with 
 them. This is a poor country, though there is plenty of water ; 
 but there is good country in the Gaivlcr Range, nearly straight 
 from Port Augusta to Muyt's Archipelago. Of course, Port 
 Augusta must be a great shipping place for wool some day. Six 
 ships have been there this year to load for wool. Port Lincoln is 
 at the end of a peninsula ; and as it is possible to ship wool 
 anywhere up each side ot the peninsula, Port Lincoln will never 
 be a place worth speaking of, not, at least, till there is a railway, 
 when goods will be landed at this, the proper terminus. 
 
 Sailed at 5.30 p.m. for Adelaide. 
 
 February ist. — Off Yorke Peninsula in A.M. 
 
 Febnmry 2nd. — A hard battle to fight our way up into these 
 waters. Anchored off Glenelg, the port of Adelaide, [capital of
 
 2 68 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 South Australia,] at 6.30 p.m. Heard singing at 8.30, and, looking 
 out of my port, saw a little yacht coming along crowded with 
 men, and with large lanterns. The boat gliding along was very 
 pretty; there was just an air to move it. They sang " Die Wacht 
 am Rhein " and " Lebe Wohl," passing backwards and forwards 
 under the stern, and I sent for the band to respond. As they 
 passed again I asked them to come on board, and they came and 
 sat in my cabin and drank a glass of champagne, with a " Lebe 
 Hoch," sung by the whole, to the Queen. They were German 
 tradesmen. They afterwards went on deck and sang again, and, 
 thanking me, departed. 
 
 February yd. — Came up to Adelaide in welcome rain, which 
 was gladdening everyone. It filled the tank at ^Vallaroo and 
 Moonta with, they say, a nine months' supply of water. A 
 modest but very comfortable Government house. In p.m. rode 
 through a level peaceful country of some breadth under the hills ; 
 much of it had been under corn. Many vineyards, and some 
 neat quiet hamlets are dotted about — all very homelike, peace- 
 ful, and prosperous. Everyone has his own vine and his own 
 fig tree. 
 
 Febniary \th. — Went to the gardens, which are the glory of the 
 place, and thoroughly nice. Perhaps they want size a little — 
 not absolute size, but open spaces. Dr. Schomburgh, the 
 curator, is brother of Sir R. Schomburgh, explorer of British 
 Guiana, and discoverer of the Victoria Regia. In this com- 
 paratively little garden they have a beautiful Victoria Regia, in 
 flower, in a very good tank, in a hot-house. 
 
 Each of these towns has its distinctive character — Melbourne 
 for magnificence, Sydney for beauty, and Adelaide for general 
 well-being ; that is what strikes me, the general air of entire 
 respectability and well-being. It is like a well laid out, very 
 l)rosperous Cambridge, without the colleges, or Reading, or some 
 big town of that sort. There is abundant room. No houses 
 but the club, the banks, and the post-ofiice have a third storey, 
 or seem to intend to have one. There is abundant space, ample
 
 Chap. VII.] ADELAIDE. 269 
 
 water-supply, and everything about the place looks thoroughly 
 decent and respectable. 
 
 Rode in p.m. to a pretty village called Matcham — a most com- 
 fortable, prosperous, and quiet English-looking village (modern 
 English), with a devious lane ; but, ah ! without a devious brook. 
 The post-office at Adelaide is a capital building — simple, solid, of 
 very good stone, and architecturally good and pleasing. 
 
 M'bmary 6th. — With the Governor to see Port Adelaide, which 
 has also its own little Ramsgate, in the shape of " Semaphore." 
 It is really just like a little Anglesea, but a trifle more sandy. We 
 landed there on a little pier, on which were girls with flapping 
 hats, children with spades digging sand, and the whole story, as 
 though we had not left England at all. The day was delightfully 
 cool. 
 
 Febricary Wi. — The Governor (Mr. A. Musgrave) came on board 
 officially. 
 
 February ()th. — To see the model school ; very good. 
 
 February 13///. — The Governor came on board at noon, and 
 we started at i p.m. steaming against a S.S.E. breeze. 
 
 February 15///. — Ofi" Port Macdonnell at 11.30 a.m., and was 
 boarded by a boat with the harbour-master, with whom we landed; 
 saluted the Governor. The landing easy when there, but there is 
 but very little shelter indeed. The anchors holding the moorings 
 were put down by divers, who blasted holes in the rock with 
 dynamite, to put in the arm of the anchors. Four moorings in 
 fifteen fathoms. A nice little pier running into four feet. Six 
 lighters do the work of lading, each holding six to ten tons. The 
 place has exported 18,000 bales of wool, worth ;^35o,ooo, this 
 year, and has taken ^^ 10,000 in custom's duties. Bark and 
 wheat also have been exported. There is a capital life-boat, with 
 its good house, &c., rocket apparatus, and so on ; and a crew can 
 always be got, as the people are all seafaring ; a good inn and 
 plenty of comfortable houses ; population about 400 in all. 
 Started for Mount Gambier, I, with the doctor, who owned a pair 
 of first-rate fourteen two trotters, and came along twelve miles an
 
 270 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 hour, on an excellent road, metalled for about six miles with 
 limestone and the rest with a hard volcanic stone, as hard and 
 level as a billiard table. Alem. When people talk of convict-made 
 roads quote those of South Australia, where never a convict was 
 known to land ; they are the best that I have seen. Here, at 
 Mount Gambler, the season is later here than at Adelaide, and 
 we found some wheat still in the ear. They enjoy so much cool- 
 ness and moisture that potatoes are grown all the year round. 
 The land from the sea-side to Mount Gambier supports sheep, 
 and there is a certain amount of green upon it, but upon Mount 
 Gambier itself and slopes for five miles around there is an 
 immense area of volcanic mud soil, growing wheat, lucerne, 
 clover, potatoes, &:c. Wheat is grown in pieces of one mile 
 square ; potatoes in 200 or 300 acre pieces. Mount Gambier 
 itself is a long, shoe-shaped succession of craters, with water in 
 them all. The road from Port MacDonnell winds cleverly over 
 the top and along a crater edge, and one discovers the town a 
 mile north at one's feet on turning away from the lake. It is 
 certainly an emblem of prosperity and wealth. The materials for 
 building lie all about the place. A quarry of pink dolomite is six 
 miles off, and limestone is to be had anywhere. It follows that 
 the best buildings are of pink, with white facings, and one's eye 
 takes in a large, handsome, Scotch church and manse, the former 
 in geometrical decorated, and with steeple ; a little gem of a 
 Church of England, highly ornamented, while on the left is a 
 very handsome hospital. Going down into the town one finds 
 comfortable houses on either hand, mostly of stone, and often of 
 dolomite, with gardens ; a capital hotel, a very pretty little bank in 
 excellent style, and a handsome institute. English bushes, trees, 
 and creepers abound, and roses are in profusion. It is a charm- 
 ing spot indeed. The Governor had to receive addresses from 
 sundry and various, and then we went for a stroll, up one street 
 and down another. Good shops, nice gardens, &:c., seem all the 
 rule in this happy spot, where people must have got rich very 
 quickly or they would not have built the churches, odd fellows'
 
 Chap. VII.] MOUNT GAM BIER. 27 1 
 
 halls, &c., (SiC, which abound, for " Crescit amor nummi," and in 
 another generation people will hold on by what they have got, or 
 seek to increase their own comforts and not the public weal, I 
 fear ; as elsewhere. Back to the hotel and dined. The banker, 
 magistrate, clergyman, and doctor, who had come to meet us, 
 dined with us. 
 
 Their education is not here in a forward state. There are 
 languishing little schools doing no good, instead of a few good 
 ones. 
 
 February idtJi. — Up at 7 and walked over the top of Mount 
 Gambier, a pretty sight. After breakfast drove to " Mooruk," the 
 property of Mr. Brown. They are getting twenty bushels of 
 wheat to the acre this year. We saw the wheat being stripped, 
 which seemed a wasteful process, but the manager said he could 
 afford to lose four bushels an acre by doing this, rather than hand 
 reap, and all the more that the sheep would glean the waste. He 
 was paying 155-. an acre, i.e., ()d. a bushel to have his corn cut, 
 thrashed, winnowed and bagged, supplying his own stripping 
 machine but not horses. Over most of his ground he has some- 
 thing else between the wheat, and turns in sheep and cattle 
 when the ear is stripped. The sheep tread in and break 
 down the stubble, the cattle feed it off, and so it goes back 
 into the ground in one shape or another. He has two crops 
 and one fallow on this land. His sheep are cross-bred Lincoln 
 and Merino. 
 
 Left the Governor and party at a cross road, and came back to 
 the town, and we started in a dreadful old contrivance with two 
 very slow horses ; however, I made them go ten miles an hour 
 after the first five or six, and got down in an hour and three- 
 quarters. Found the excellent old pilot waiting, and went out in 
 his boat, blowing a little fresh at first but not bad. Steamed on, 
 the ship having remained under way. Head wind S.E. and 
 E.S.E. continually, with high glass (barom.). Lots of kelp float- 
 ing in deep water five and six miles from land. 
 
 Fehriiary 18///. — Passed Wilson's promontory at 2.15 a.m.
 
 272 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VII. 
 
 February 20th. — Rounded Cape Howe at 10 p.m. 
 
 February 22nd. — Saw St. George's Head off Jervis Bay at 2 a.m. 
 Wind always N.N.E. to N.N.W. 
 
 February 2 2,rd. — Picked up our buoy in Farm Cove (Sydney) 
 at 2 A.M.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 NEW HEBRIDES. 
 
 April \oth, 1875. — Weighed at 4.45 p.m.; made sail outside 
 the heads and slogged along, four knots. 
 
 Ap?'il 12th. — Turned back at 9 a.m. to land a case of fever. 
 
 April 13///. — Got alongside H.M.S. "Barracouta" in quarantine 
 ground (Sydney) at 7.15 p.m. ; turned round after landing the 
 man, and was clear of the heads again by 8.15. Fine breeze at 
 south. 
 
 April i()th. — Making good Avay. Glass falling and squall}-, a 
 sign of getting to the real trade wind, when the barometer is 
 habitually low, 
 
 April 22nd. — Saw the peaks of Aneiteum (New Hebrides) at 
 dayhght, about forty-five miles off; nice breeze ; wind fell light, 
 but got in at 4 p.m. Landed at once, and saw a Tahitian teacher, 
 who showed me the missionary Mr. Murray's house. The house 
 was built by Dr. Geddie seventeen or eighteen years ago. We 
 walked to bathe, and found a splendid pool with a fine current. 
 Got some ferns. Mr. Murray says there are now 1,500 natives 
 only; in 1865 there were 2,200, according to Brenchley, and in 
 1845, 3,000 or thereabouts. In Mr, Murray's section of thg 
 island there were twenty-nine deaths and only seventeen births in 
 1874. And this is the island which is, of all others, the most 
 under civilising influences, and which is least visited by labour 
 vessels. On the 20th March they had a bad earthquake and a 
 wave which overwhelmed the sandy island on which they take 
 whales to " try." The wall of the church was badly cracked. 
 Came on board at 6,15 and sailed at 7 p.m. No breeze under 
 the land, afterwards slogged along very comfortably. The name
 
 2 74 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 of the island should be Eiteum. Aneiteum meaning in or at 
 Eiteum. The name of the harbour Anelgauhat — in or at the 
 rocks Elgauhat. 
 
 April 2yd. — Stood in for the island of Tanna, but did not get 
 there till 9 a.m., when we anchored in Port Resolution. I landed 
 at once, and saw Mr. Neilson, the missionary, and his wife, who 
 came to meet us. A crowd of natives there and on the shore ; 
 their hair is frizzed, as in Cook's engravings, and when a young 
 man's hair reaches to his shoulders or nearly, he is given a wife. 
 Up to this time he chews kava, and can handle food, but after 
 this time he must not touch food but with a leaf, and does not 
 chew kava. Mr. Neilson says that they have been fighting a 
 good deal in the last six months, and that a man was killed not 
 long since. Many of the natives have been driven off, and have 
 gone as many as a hundred to Aniwa. He puts the population 
 at about 10,000, but it is difficult to estimate. For one occupied 
 there are two abandoned villages. Although two tribes may be 
 at war, still there are among them friends on each side who have 
 secret meetings and understandings all the time the fighting is 
 going on. There are no fortified towns or posts, and the whole 
 condition of these people is very low indeed ; they make no 
 pottery, make bad canoes, and follow really no art to speak of 
 The women, who are awfully ugly, wear a petticoat of heavy long 
 dracoena leaves. Our walk took us to the sea on the south of the 
 promontory, all of which might and should be a rich garden, 
 and will be as soon as ever the question of getting labourers is 
 solved. The rotation of crops is to clear a garden and plant it 
 with yams in the first year, and with bananas and Indian corn, which 
 they now eat, and with sugar in the second year. They do not 
 grow annatto ; the bread fruit is very fine and very productive. 
 This is called by other islanders " the land of the bread fruit." 
 There is also the Fijian Ndcnca and Ivi, an oval fruit, with a 
 sweet kernel. The foccs of the men coming on board were all 
 painted with ochre and some blue paint. They wear strips of 
 tortoiseshell as ear-rings ; oval beads of whale's teeth are slung
 
 Chap. VIII.] ISLAND OF TANNA. 2/5 
 
 round the neck, as large as a pigeon's egg, and pieces of green- 
 stone. A chief had a shirt, but no one else. 
 
 Landed again in p.m. at the head of the bay and walked to a 
 spring on the north side of the beach, thermometer 204°, at 
 another 188° was all we could get; the water smelling strongly of 
 sulphur. The men who had been seining got little fish, but that 
 little very good. Bathed, walked round, and came off. 
 
 April 2^th. — Up at 5.30 and went off at 6.30 to the Volcano 
 Yazur, in company with Mr. Neilson, a famous walker and good 
 companion. One " Washcrtvoman^' a chief, met us at the head 
 of the bay with a few natives, and I waited till the whole 
 party of 145, viz., 100 seamen, 30 marines, 11 officers, Stanley, 
 iSIr. Neilson, and two stewards and cooks had assembled ; then 
 told them to keep together and not to lose sight of the next 
 ahead ; also not to fancy when they got to the top of the crater 
 that, because they were tired and hungry, it would be dinner- 
 time, but to wait till they got to the lake and had had their 
 swim. We then plunged into the bush, and went steadily for 
 from three and a-half to four miles to an open place under the 
 trees. Up to this the path was gently undulating, and through 
 reedy grass and forest, alternately passing some small and poor 
 patches of cultivation enclosed by reed fences. Occasionally a 
 very fine tree was passed, of the banyan kind, and one was 
 measured, about 90 ft. to 100 ft. in circumference at the apparent 
 base — all this being a mass of limbs, but this thickness was con- 
 tinued a good way up. On this cleared ground we halted, and 
 all hands came up. A native brought two water-melons, which 
 were shared, and a few cocoa nuts were brought. After ten or 
 fifteen minutes on again, up a steep path through fern and lovely 
 vegetation and on a steep ridge, and at last got on to a small 
 table land covered with screw pines. Every leaf and every 
 branch is now coated witli volcanic sand, and the vegetation 
 under foot is more and more sparse till one comes abruptly on a 
 broad mass of pink scoria with bits of white crystallised matter 
 bedded in it, just like the rocks round Port Resolution. 
 
 T 2
 
 276 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 As one draws near the foot of the cone, which is but 200 ft. 
 on this side, great squashes of Hght, brittle scoria are seen, 
 only recently thrown out, and looking as though one had taken a 
 lump of dough of the consistency of hasty pudding, and, after 
 working it, had thrown it down. Here and there were hard bits 
 when we got higher up, but the general character of the scoria was 
 more and more of this sort as we ascended the cone. After get- 
 ting to the top, we circled round, and sat down on the weather 
 side, all hands well up. The eruptions were moderate, but the 
 sight was fine, and the men thoroughly rose to it, and enjoyed it, 
 I think, with considerable pluck and zest. They abstained very 
 generally from eating, according to my recommendation, but a few 
 had a lunch of sardines, with which they were well primed. 
 The canteen proved itself to-day of very great assistance to 
 every one, and an immense quantity of food was taken thence 
 to-day. Eruptions seemed to take place chiefly from the second 
 and third craters from the south, and steam to issue from the first. 
 Probably the depth of these craters, the visible depth to which we 
 could see, was 300 feet. At a good eruption we could feel an 
 indraught of air, and a slight shock to our lungs. The pieces, of 
 which the largest were not more than a couple of tons weight, 
 went up 600 feet and fell back ; some of the smaller pieces, and 
 up to perhaps half a ton, went with a side wind over a saddle, or 
 lip of crater to S.S.W., and very close to some of the men who 
 went along that way. The pieces assumed shapes like a tadpole 
 going up, and reversed coming down. One man brought me a 
 very hard bit of greenish stuft' which he found sticking into a piece 
 of lava scoria and broke off, and I brought away some pieces of 
 scoria, &c. We sat about forty minutes ; the appearance of the 
 craters gave me the idea that the centre of eruption is working 
 very slowly to the south-west. 
 
 From the top we went down to a large lake, a mile in length, 
 which either is evaporated, or loses itself in sand. The baro- 
 meter had made it 800 feet from the summit to the lake, and 
 the summit 1000 feet from the sea. This is, I think, correct beyond
 
 Chap. VIII.] VOLCAiVO YAZUR. 277 
 
 a question. The slope of the cone was considerable, and I dare- 
 say 40° to the horizon. Nearly all is fine dust, but here and 
 there a lump of scoria has leaped over the edge and rolled down. 
 Indeed, we saw some doing so as we came along and after. Once 
 down, all hands were soon in the water, bathing and enjoying 
 themselves very heartily. Certainly a hundred and twenty people 
 must have been in the water at once. After that we had a muster and 
 found all present, and then all dined together, it being pretty 
 nearly 1 1.30 a.!M. We had started at 7 a.m. from the landing place 
 at the head of the bay, reached the first halt at 8.15, and the 
 summit at 9.20. Left the summit at 10.10, dined at 11.30, and 
 left the lake at i.io p.m. Reached the hot lake at 2.50, left at 
 3.10, and reached the beach at 4 p.m. 
 
 While we were bathing a part of a hostile tribe came down and 
 threw out in a skirmishing order along the beach. Our fellows 
 (natives under Washerwoman) had been in a stew from the time 
 we left the first halting place, and had said, " You white men you 
 go first." To which Mr. Neilson replied, " We are close ; do you 
 show us the way." Every one of these fellows has a musket, and 
 even little boys carry arms capped, and with the hammer on the 
 
 nipple. 
 
 After dinner, I went over to these fellows with Mr. Neilson, 
 and though at first they Avere afraid and would not come, yet they 
 afterwards came up to speak. Before I went, our own fellows 
 said, " No give him 'bacco ! " wishing, I suppose, to keep it all 
 for themselves. Mr. Neilson asked, " What do you come for ? 
 Why are you always fighting ? " " Oh ! they said, it is not our 
 fault, it is theirs. ^Vhy are they always killing our people." '• No," 
 said Mr. Neilson, "you are always killing them." They said, 
 "They killed our chief's son!" "How?" "They bewitched 
 him, and are always bewitching our young men." 
 
 One superstition in this witchcraft might be turned to account. 
 They believe that if fragments of food or bones are left uncovered, 
 the enemy will find them and use them for witchcraft. They, 
 therefore, invariably bury them carefully. Is it possible that this
 
 278 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 I 
 
 is a relic of a sanitary law ? After a good spell we got up to go, 
 and walked through some luxuriant growth to a handsome (for 
 them) village, where a fine clear bit of ground served as the village 
 square, under the shade of splendid banyans. Here we eat cocoa- 
 nuts, my big knife in great request to open them, and had a dance, 
 the same as yesterday, on board. They seem to have but one 
 form. Nothing can be much lower than these people ; their 
 houses are but 5 ft. 6 in. under the ridge pole and filthy. Their 
 faces filthily smeared. They can only count to five, have no 
 manufacture whatever ; even their bows and arrows and clubs are 
 miserable, and their ornaments wretched. They have no desire 
 for clothes apparently, except coloured handkerchiefs. The article 
 which takes most trouble to make is, I suppose, the kawass, or 
 throwing stone, about a foot long and of the thickness of a thick 
 round ruler. I saw no tools, and suppose that they have been 
 superseded by European ones. 
 
 Hence to a green, warm lake, of rather stagnant w^ater ; the path 
 lay through an unequalled valley for ferns ; lovely maiden-hair 
 trailed up and down over stems of trees, twenty and thirty feet 
 from the ground. I think some I got were handsome. Here we 
 had another halt, and thirty or forty bathed again ; hence to the 
 beach was an hour's smart walk, and was mainly by the path by 
 which we had come out. My boat was on the beach, and I was 
 on board by 5.20. Hay and a party often cooks and stewards, &c., 
 had been out and got all the way to the crater and back by 5.30, 
 guided by a half caste Fijian, whom they found, and who boasted 
 that he could go in safety all over the island. When all our party 
 had got on board, I found that two lads were missing, and im- 
 mediately sent to Mr. Neilson to ask his influence and assist- 
 ance in finding them, arranging at the same time a party, ot 
 a lieutenant, sub-lieutenant, two midshipmen, two gunners' mates, 
 and twenty-four men, to go in search, under myself Happily 
 at about 8 o'clock they turned up by a canoe. They had loitered 
 after the lake to buy cocoa-nuts at a village, and there took a 
 wrong track, then thinking it wTong, turned to the village, and
 
 Chap. VIII.] 
 
 COAST OF TANNA. 
 
 279 
 
 got " Mr. Hankin," as he is called, a man who was on a Mr. 
 Hankin's plantation, in Queensland, and who speaks English, to 
 bring them down. I had kept back Washerwoman's present, but 
 now sent it to him, and gave Mr. Hankin a big knife. Went to 
 bed thoroughly content, leaving orders to weigh in early dawn. 
 
 April 25///. — Weighed at 6.15 a.m., and steamed out of Port 
 Resolution ; then made sail to a light trade, going close in shore 
 and getting a fair view of the slopes of the volcano. The abun- 
 dance of cocoa-nut trees is marvellous, and they are all growing 
 on rich volcanic soil. The nuts are not large. Cook's pyramid 
 has been destroyed. On rounding a point, saw a fore and aft 
 schooner, which proved to be the " Chance." Mr. S. and the 
 labour agent came on board, and I learnt from them, that Jones, 
 alias Tatchell, on Ross Lewin's estate, had killed a woman (a 
 native), by shooting her. They said that the native labourers 
 from Api had told them, but that Jones had said nought about it, 
 though he had been on board. This vessel had a license from 
 
 
 
 V 
 
 :■■■ ^'^/^'-^^riT 
 
 „r 

 
 28o 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 IMaryborough for sixty-eight men, and had got twenty-seven. They 
 said that the natives on this side of Tanna were eager to go 
 away, as the hurricane had left them badly off for food. Fullerton 
 •boarded her, and all was as correct as paper could make it. We 
 made sail at 9 p.m., and ran round the N. E. point. This is 
 lovely. Rounded green hills 1200 feet high have their hollows 
 filled with timber, and are bounded by perpendicular cliffs 130 
 feet high, which everywhere have undercliffs and cliffs filled with 
 vegetation. All this is coralline rock, and on the face of the 
 cliff are worn regular beaches,* forty feet from the sea, and again 
 at twenty feet ; no doubt this marks upheaval ; at points of 
 •lower land it is thus : 
 
 ^ 
 
 V 
 
 
 and this has been the work of ages. From the N.E. 
 point onwards, we passed half a mile off shore, and the 
 natives lit fires, and coo-icd, and waved to us with poles, 
 flags, and branches, to come in. It was a pretty and in- 
 teresting sight. On the east side all is steep, but on the 
 west, and from the north-west point, the land begins to slope 
 more gently away. I was bound for Sangalie, Mr. Ross Lewin's 
 place, and descried it standing on an eminence, about 400 feet 
 
 See previous page.
 
 Chap. VIII.] COAST OF TANNA. 281 
 
 high, and a mile or so back from the beach. The ground 
 seemed well cleared to seaward of it, but a belt of flat land 
 with trees intervened between the foot of the hill and the shore. 
 Here again is an evidence of upheaval. Arrived off the point 
 which seemed likely to be the landing-place, I sent in Reade 
 with orders to examine the natives, and then to charge the man 
 with killing the woman. I landed soon after ; Messer and Corrie 
 both went in case of its being necessary to exhume and examine 
 the body. On landing in a beautiful cove, between shore reefs 
 of dead uprising coral, we found some native Tannese, who were 
 more wretchedly dressed than any we had seen before. They 
 had no musket, but each had a bow, a kawass, or a stone only. 
 I went towards them, and they ran away. I called Faki-eri 
 ("my friend," in Port Resolution idiom), which one or two un- 
 derstood apparently, and then at last one came and begged 
 tobacco, and took my hand in fear and trembling. We walked 
 over a shore, flat, full of vegetation and creepers, like the 
 Taviuni land.* Then a steepish path, over what I should say was 
 not good land, on which cotton has been grown, and which is 
 now being turned into corn land. The homestead is very nice 
 indeed, and so are the labourers' huts; a good weatherboard 
 house, a good cotton house, and good corn houses ; nice reed 
 fences all round a famous yard of poultry ; a capital horse 
 saddled, and all thoroughly well kept and in good order, as neat 
 as anything which I have seen in Fiji. A large acreage, perhaps 
 eighty acres, was under Indian corn, and there was nothing else 
 growing. The labourers were all in white sulus.f 
 
 Reade sent for the labourers, and examined them \ and then 
 got from another overseer the fact of the man having killed the 
 woman Leclonga in the night. He then charged the man with 
 having done so, who instantly declared that he should have gone 
 on board the ship to give himself up, but that he had been out 
 in the bush giving medicine to a sick friend, and had but just 
 
 * Fiji. » + Cloths round their loins.
 
 282 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 come back. He then made a statement to the effect that the 
 woman had seized the muzzle of his rifle, and that it had ex 
 ploded, and that she died three hours after from a wound caused 
 by the explosion. This was written down, and signed by the 
 man, and witnessed by two of the officers. The fact was, that he 
 shot the woman, he doesn't know how, in a drunken brawl. I 
 ordered him to be taken off, and he at first wanted to ride 
 down, and was greatly put out at being told to walk as a 
 prisoner.* Mellor had made a big fire on the beach, which we 
 lighted. 
 
 April 26i/i. — The man's traps were ordered to be sent off that 
 night (the ship had meanwhile anchored by my orders), but they 
 did not all come, so I waited till next morning, and sent on shore 
 to hurry off the remainder; and weighed, finally, at 8 a.m. It 
 fell very light indeed, though in a squall we ran nine knots, and 
 did not get up with Erromango till 5 p.m., and then boarded the 
 May Queen close under the land. 
 
 Erromango shows the fact of its being an area of elevation, 
 even more than Tanna. Five distinct and wide terraces are seen 
 all along the south coast. 
 
 -^( 
 
 — /'-»i«£/.^y^t /--^•.o^ ../iX-i* ^;«,4^ -<^>*ie&V4AT^ 
 
 
 * This man was tried for murder at Sydney, but acquitted for want of 
 evidence.
 
 Chap. VIII.] VATE OR SANDWICH ISLAND. 
 I suppose n, section to be thus : — 
 
 283 
 
 VoCccCnic 
 
 Coral 
 
 Coral 
 
 This is most clear. It was so late that I resolved to cut Dillon 
 Bay, and enter Havannah harbour (Island of Vate). 
 
 April 2^th. — Made Sandwich Island or Vate early, but did 
 not draw up there till i p.m., then steamed into Havannah Har- 
 bour, the wind turning to N.E. and N.N.E. Here the coral steps 
 rise to the hill tops. There is a Hat island in the entrance, a 
 knob 200 feet high, with a wide flat base. This is in one 
 stage, but there are many hill tops which were Hat islands thou- 
 sands of years ago, and which now have four or five coral steps. 
 As we went up, a Mr. Young came off in his boat, to offer as pilot, 
 but I declined. Then came Mr. McDonald, the missionary, and 
 accompanied me to the anchorage. I asked him to assemble the 
 chiefs on Thursday, to be talked to. I anchored in Matapoua 
 Bay, and Mr. H. came on board. I had from him the cases of 
 all those vessels which have committed enormities, in a straggling 
 fashion, but something to go upon at all events. The first thing 
 that struck one was that every canoe had a little sprit sail 
 of canvas or duck. The natives, unlike those of Tauna, care for 
 European handkerchiefs, and so on, and wear a lava-lava. 
 The canoes tried to catch the ship, and paddled just after her 
 as we wound our way to the anchorage. At 5.30 p.m. I landed 
 with Stanley, and had a bathe after a little walk in the plantation 
 of Mr. Hebblewhite. 
 
 April 28///. — Landed at 2 p.m. with Stanley, at Missionary 
 Point 3 saw Mrs. McDonald and children, and then went on to
 
 284 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 Mr. Young's, who has a place which really might be nice. 
 There are well planted orange and other trees in fine condition. 
 He showed us the way across the hills, and begged us not to go ; 
 but Stanley thought we could go back by the top of the range ; 
 so bidding good-bye to him, away we went headlong, taking 
 everything as it came; cane brake and bush, fern and forest. 
 The cane brake was fully eight feet high, and very thick indeed, 
 so that one frequently had to lie down to clear it away ; my 
 knife, which I always carry (fifteen inches long), was no good 
 against the flinty stems, and we had to bear it down with our 
 Aveight. 
 
 Once we thought of giving up, and returning ; once of going 
 down a ravine, and so getting on to the low foreshore, but 
 Stanley's pluck prevailed, and carried us on. Sometimes he went 
 first, and sometimes I. I was never more worked, but pluck 
 remained, and endurance too, for we only felt what the absur- 
 dity and annoyance would be, and knew that we were safe in 
 passing the night on shore. We had left Mr. Young's house at 
 about 3.40, and parted from him at perhaps 4.30. It was too 
 late. We got on forcing our way bit by bit till dusk, and by 
 that time had got too far away altogether to the northward, as 
 we afterwards found ; this was in our desire to avoid the long 
 grass. At dusk, by a miracle, Stanley hit on a path, and we fol- 
 lowed it, first with our eyes, then with feet only, and were in good 
 hopes of our getting down ; but suddenly, it led us into a wood 
 by a large tree, and we were done for. ' 
 
 Stanley struck a match, and we tried to get fire ; but the leaves 
 and twigs were so wet it was impossible. Then with three other 
 matches we explored the road, and got a little way down on what 
 was really, I think, a path, but it was impossible to go on, even by 
 day. It was not easy next morning to follow a path like this, 
 where the underwood was not very thick. By 7.15 we were done, 
 and laid down. Tried again to light a fire, but it was no good, 
 and our matches were nearly all used ; so there was nothing for it 
 but to lie down and laugh, and try and pass the time. I was glad
 
 Chap. VIII.] A NIGHT ON SHORE. 285 
 
 to have a jersey on, to keep the perspiration on me ; we were 
 quite wet through, and the ground was quite damp. I put the 
 towel which I always wear round my hat under my shoulders and 
 back. We had left our coats in the boat, as usual. To pass the 
 time we began an imaginary game of bczique. Stanley modestly 
 put down the ten of trumps, and when I immediately took it with 
 an imaginary ace we both laughed so, that that stopped. We 
 then invented smart things to say to those who should attempt to 
 chaff us for losing ourselves, and so on ; till at last we fell asleep. 
 The night was lovely and starlit, and Stanley soon had a nap. I 
 not so soon, though I was not uncomfortable, except in the 
 thought of the bother which people were having in going after me. 
 We saw the moon rise at midnight, and get overhead about 5 a.!\i. 
 My perspiration never dried all night, it was so mild and damp, 
 and I never got very stiff. AVith the first dawn we were at work, 
 trying to spell our way, but soon lost the track. Had we waited 
 for more daylight, I think that we should have stuck to it and kept 
 it ; but impatient, and thinking that we were much too far up the 
 valley, we went on up the hill again into our path, and struck to 
 our right across knee-high grass and fern again. This led us to 
 the crest overlooking the harbour, and we saw the ship. 
 
 Getting on a big rock we waved and shrieked, though we knew 
 they could not hear ; but there were no signs of their seeing us. 
 And at about 6.30, or earlier, we dashed down the hill, which is 
 here, as at Mr. Young's, made of successive terraces of coral with 
 wide levels. We soon repented us. The grass, which had looked 
 short and easy from above, turned into canebrakes nine feet high 
 and twined with wild yam, until the labour really became terrible, 
 and Stanley nearly professed to give in. We had nearly an hour 
 of this, then came to a wood belt, cut fairly through it with my 
 bush knife, and found a path at the foot, almost obliterated, but 
 still traceable. In ten minutes we reached the corner of Mr. 
 Hebblewhite's maize field ; in fifteen we were on the beach and in 
 the stream, and hailing the ship for a boat and clean clothes. We 
 were just in time to stop the dingy with a party going in search,
 
 286 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 and heard seven bells, 7.30, strike ; very happy indeed to have 
 got to the end of our work. We were on board by 8, and drink- 
 ing a cup of chocolate ; and by 9 had breakfasted and were ready 
 for anything, only a little shaky on our pins from excitement. I 
 found that Mr. Hebblewhite had sent his men for me last night, 
 and that Mr. Macdonald, Mr. Young, and Fullerton had gone off 
 this morning. I could only be very sorry that I had given so 
 much trouble. Fullerton and Mr. Young came down the ravine 
 which we refused in fear of a precipice. 
 
 At 1,30 I went down to the missionary's to meet the chiefs. He 
 bad told me that at a meeting of chiefs one old man, from a village 
 called Lilipa on Protection Island, annoyed at his preaching to 
 them at a feast of their own — a sing-sing — threatened him and 
 said, " Remember that I killed the Samoan missionaries when 
 they came, and now I will kill you." 
 
 I thought it would be a good thing to get them all together, and 
 to tell them a few words ; and so they came. The meeting was 
 to have been at a neighbouring village, but the chiefs of the village 
 said " No ; but let us have it at a distance, for fear some insult 
 should be apprehended where none is meant." It was doubtful at 
 first whether the chiefs from Lilipa would come. However, two 
 came ; and I then told them all that I was glad to see them, and 
 hear that they were all friendly with the white men ; that was 
 right, let it so continue. Together with the whites they would be 
 strong, but alone and without them, weak. They were not like 
 the people of ]\Iai, and Api, and Mallicolto, who have no chiefs ; 
 they understand good government. There are not many chiefs 
 present here to-day, but let them tell the words I have said to 
 others. I suppose the strong wind has prevented those from a 
 distance, those from Lilipa, from coming ; but do you who are 
 present repeat my words to them. There may have been some 
 foolish words spoken by one or two, but these are forgotten ; and 
 a dog that barks loud does not always bite. I have finished." 
 
 The Lilipa chiefs both sniggered, and the others looked and 
 nudged at them ; and they evidently understood much of what
 
 Chap. VIII.] 
 
 MEETING OF CHIEFS. 
 
 287 
 
 was said before it was translated. The chief of the neighbouring 
 village took up his parable in reply, and said, " Yes ! that it was 
 good, and that whites and natives were always to be one. The 
 white's law was a strong wind." I then walked back to the 
 anchorage, and through the neighbouring houses or village, which 
 
 • ^ ^-q, ^ ■ ' ■>n'i-i,^ 
 
 were not bad for this island, but were very low and smoky. The 
 opening is on the lee side, a great long opening, disclosing a view 
 of women, cooking pots, &c., &c. The husband was sitting on a 
 mat in front, and the compounds in which the houses are placed 
 are very cleanly and tidily swept. At one man's house some 
 excellent baskets were made, and I bought some, as well as a 
 meat dish, fairly carved. 
 
 April 30///.— The chiefs all came at 10.30, and I said much the 
 same as yesterday, and gave them each a new sulu, and a good 
 knife to each of three of them. They are very like Malays in their 
 dress and look, and are fond of the orange colour of yellow- 
 ochre, with which they colour their sulus. 
 
 I arranged with Mr. Young to take a man of his back to 
 Pentecost Island. The story is this. Four men eidier left a 
 plantation or swam ashore from a vessel, and came to Oila. 
 Then in passing Ford's they persuaded a youth to join them, came 
 to the mouth of Havannah Harbour, took a canoe, crossed to 
 Deception Island, got some men from Davies's to accompany 
 them, took a big canoe, came across to the north end of Nguna
 
 2 88 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 (Montague Island), and were all murdered and eaten but this 
 one, who got a canoe and paddled back to Havannah Harbour, 
 and asked to be taken in. 
 
 Mr. Young brought me some very good plants. I got all hands 
 on board, and weighed while it was light, at 4.15, and nearly lost 
 the wind. However, it continued ; and we crept alongside, and 
 to an offing. 
 
 May \st. — Tacked at 4 a.m., and stood to south-east, and at 
 daylight found two schooners communicating with their boats. 
 Fired two guns, and they hoisted ensigns, and bore down axid 
 found one to be the "Jason," whose captain produced a log of 
 May I St. " Morning broke fine and clear. Noon, weighed, and 
 stood over towards Nguna." I sent Elwyn to ask him what day 
 it was ; upon which he stuck his hands in his pockets, and said, 
 " Why, Saturday, May ist." " Then how,"' said Elwyn, " do you 
 make this out, Avhen it isn't noon yet ? " " Why," he said, " you 
 don't know the difference between civil and astronomical time. I 
 can keep what time I like on board my own ship." The agent 
 was away under the land of Nguna; the other vessel was the 
 " Sybil," of Maryborough. 
 
 After dismissing all these people I stood in between Nguna and 
 Vate as far as was safe, as the Avind was light; then went in 
 my galley with Messer and Stanley, taking the two natives. The 
 Pentecost men had pointed out the north end of Nguna as the 
 place where they were set upon. The master of the Sybil had told 
 me that he had picked up a boy who had swam to him from the 
 rocks of Nguna three days ago, and beheved him to belong to 
 Ambrym, which he says the natives call Bnrap. By 10.15 we 
 reached Mr. Milne's (tlie missionary) house, small but Avell built 
 on a concrete foundation, in a nice garden fifty yards from the 
 beach, quite pretty. The name of that part, or village of Nguna, 
 is Bali. He had heard of the landing and killing of these boys 
 of Pentecost, and had no doubt that if killed it was for the sake of 
 eating, and not to punish them for stealing bread-fruit ; and he 
 said, that though the people near him would not eat men, those at
 
 Chap. VIII.] NGUNA OR MONTAGUE ISLAND. 289 
 
 the other end would do so directly. A lot of savage-looking 
 rascals had followed us from the boat to the house, and sat there 
 listening. I asked Mr. Milne to let them know what we were 
 talking about ; and they declared that they never eat men, that 
 what happened at the other end of Nguna they knew very little 
 about. One carried on a conversation by signs with my Pentecost 
 man, whose name, by the way, I found to be BuUhasi, ending by 
 biting at his own WTist, with upraised eyebrows, as a sign of inter- 
 rogation ; and on receiving an affirmative sign of upraised chin 
 from the latter, putting on a look of well-assumed repugnance. 
 The mouth and wrinkles on the nose would have made a splendid 
 article for Darwin in his " Expression of the Emotions in ]\Ian 
 and Animals;" and the wrist too— a juicy, succulent part, just 
 above the wrist. Two or three fellows spoke English, so I sug- 
 gested that two should come to act as my guides and interpreters 
 to the north end, which I now found was called U-tan-lau, the 
 tvitidy place, or the land (tan) of wind (Ian) ? a mile and a half 
 from the beach, and in a high position. One said he was sick ; 
 another, that he couldn't ; and a third said that he was afraid, 
 fairly ; so he then sent for his teacher, a native of Pele, who came, 
 and proved a jolly, round, plucky individual, and said at once that 
 he v.'ould go. Mr. Brady, from Havannah Harbour, was here ; 
 and so I sent back Mr. Young's Aoba boy, who had served as 
 interpreter between me and the Pentecost man, by him. The 
 missionary says he has no fear or trouble with the natives now ; 
 but that, though they are ready to come and sit in the verandah 
 and talk about pigs and yams, directly he begins to talk about 
 religion they steal away one by one. He has no convert but the 
 teacher in Pele. Here io is yes^ as in Fiji ; and banomai is 
 come. 
 
 Nguna. 
 
 English. 
 
 Vate. 
 
 Io 
 
 Yes 
 
 Io 
 
 Banomai 
 
 Come 
 
 Bavannomai 
 
 Eguia 
 
 Good 
 
 Euia. 
 
 At about 2.15 we started to come back, with now three
 
 290 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 natives. Just as we were going Mrs. Milne brought in a man who 
 said that one of the lost boys was at a village called Vanua-tap. 
 We agreed to call for him. 
 
 Going down in the galley, by advice of our interpreter, we 
 called in under the village of Malam'e, to send a man thence to 
 Vanua-tap. Both of these villages were on the top of the cliff, 
 which is here steep from the water's edge for 200 feet or so. 
 
 Soon after, calling in at Vanuatap, the boy came down, accom- 
 panied by half the village — a little thin wretch, tottering, with a 
 stick, and with an ulcered leg. As soon as he saw his comrade 
 he was delighted and went forward, and began chatting, and got 
 into the boat very content to be with us and to go to his own 
 land. I gave the chief and each fellow with us a lot of cloth to 
 pay them for their services, and for coming with us and taking care 
 of the boy. We got back to the ship at about 2, and steaming 
 to northward, anchored in the bay of JVa-ora-Juatna, or north- 
 west bay, at 3.15, in thirteen fathoms coral and pebbles of 
 broken coral. I went away at .once with six men, Messer and 
 Stanley, armed with revolvers, ordering Reade to follow with a 
 cutter's crew, also armed in the same way, in half an hour's time. 
 We plunged into a good but narrow path, rising on a gently- 
 sloping volcanic slope, immediately from the beach. The vege- 
 tation most lovely and luxuriant. AVe saw the smoke of the 
 village of U-tan-lan, not far below the grassy hill-tops, and half- 
 way up to the summit of the extinct crater of Tavana-ki'e, facing 
 the round hill of Tavanilan. About half-way the natives had 
 built a neat little rest-house for Mr. Milne, half European. Some- 
 where here Ross Lewin had had a plantation, and I found a 
 coffee-plant with berries on the path, and a native, who spoke 
 English, told us that there were onions in the neighbourhood. 
 From this point the ascent was steeper, and we came on patches 
 of cultivation — poor patclies — dry taro, yam and banana. I 
 saw no i)apau. By-and-by we came to a level platform — the 
 Malavaran, or dancing ground, as much as 80 yds. long by 
 40 yds. wide. On the nether side, or brink, stood a row of
 
 Chap. VIII.] 
 
 // CANNIBAL VILLAGE. 
 
 20I 
 
 handsome old casuarinas, evidently planted purposely, and in a 
 line. (Why should they not be as sacred as oaks ?) In the 
 middle of the ground was a group of native drums, or lallies, 
 which are erected, round which they dance, calling on their an- 
 cestors, and striking the chief or ancestor whose effigy is stuck 
 up. Most curious and picturesque. 
 
 
 mum >-'"T";-',,i^r'^ff^':- 
 
 We only paused a moment, then went on to the village, which 
 is 200 yards above, and so placed among the boulders of volcanic 
 tufa that it might well be defended ; the last part is steep and 
 straggling, and most muddy — stiff, deep, black, volcanic soil. 
 The crotons, draccenas, hibiscus and ferns wonderfully luxuriant. 
 Presently we were on the village-house platform, which has a 
 fence, and many of the people were there ; women, too, behind 
 the trees, looking on. I found the chief and shook hands, and 
 the interpreter began his story. The men looked rather fine, and 
 bigger than Vate men ; but great brutes and rascals, I should say. 
 My interpreter had evidently sold himself to these fellows, and 
 was intending to make all square. He said what I had to say in 
 very few words, having told a long story first in his own tongue. 
 
 u 2
 
 292 
 
 COMMODORE COODENOUCH. [Chap. VIII 
 
 and from his own head, and then repHed for them. " He say, 
 canoe come, seven or eight men. Canoe break, men run away 
 bush. He no kaikai '' him. He say, long time before he no kaikai 
 man. See he build house for Missi Milne. You see him." All 
 of which was undoubtedly lies ; but there was no help for it, 
 after some cross-questioning, but to say, in a fatuous way, that 
 man-eating was a very bad thing, and to go away to look at the 
 
 surroundings. 
 
 There were three old skulls, and fourteen lower 
 
 human jaws, near the end of the hut. No end of bones of 
 turtle and pigs and fish hung from long strings in the hut, and 
 pigs' jaws all round the fences. I never saw a more curious and 
 picturesque place, or one with so decided a flavour of heathendom. 
 The whole thing gave spur to imagination : the idea on which 
 we came, the way of picking up our guides who joined us, one at 
 Malame and one at Vanua-tap, the cries of the latter, calling to 
 his friends of the village as we went up, " A-u — A-u — Au-ii. Laia- 
 
 poi. 
 
 Laia-poi. Laia-poi !" And then the huge ferns and other 
 
 growths all combined to make one remember it. Standing, too, 
 at my point of view there was a vista to the right in which stood 
 a lovely red or purple brown croton, backed by a hibiscus in full 
 
 Eat.
 
 Chap. VIII.] A CANNIBAL VILLAGE. 293 
 
 blaze. I brouglit away some ferns, and seeing a short-jointed 
 bamboo, made a native get me some roots to carry away, and a 
 young shoot. The original dress of these people seems to have 
 been a broad belt of fine matting round the waist and a maro. 
 They now cover the mat with European cloth, dyed yellow with 
 yellow ochre. This is all over Vate' ; they all paint the face 
 black and red, and have for an ornament round the neck a pearl 
 shell, a plate, willow pattern, a top of a Holloway's ointment pot, 
 a tin cover. Many have bamboo combs in the hair with a 
 pattern scratched upon them. Their noses are large and wide, 
 the septum is pierced, and they carry in it a ground-down piece 
 of shell, a piece of bone — one had a piece of plate-glass (thick) 
 ground to a circle of five-eighths of an inch in diameter. Many 
 had armlets of tortoise-shell fitting tight. As a rule the limbs and 
 bodies are not well developed at all. Most of the men and women 
 are ugly, but some are what we should call hideous. One dirty 
 grotesque-looking wretch came near us, with a nose like one of the 
 hideous Chinese lap-dogs. After talking we left the place. Messer 
 sketched this house, called Roiigavai, and also the Malavdra, 
 on the way down. At the latter I asked for one of the figures, 
 and got the chief to give me one, a long thin one with a bad 
 sound. The natives said at first, " No belong every man ; he 
 belong chief," but went off directly to ask for it for me and helped 
 to root it out. The cutter's and galley's crews helped to carry it 
 down. Reached the beach at 5.30, and were obliged to wade 
 over a hundred yards of shore reef to launch the boat. The 
 natives (five) slept on board. 
 
 May 2nd. — The cutter could not get off at all till 2 a.m., and 
 my poor old ancestor got broken in two and lost its amis. I 
 sent my five natives back to Malame this morning. Some officers 
 went up to the village, and at 8. 1 5 all were back, and we weighed 
 under sail and went away close hauled, passing Mataso or Two 
 hills, on which canoes were lying, with a nice breeze. I got 
 Bulibasi and Tevenok on the poop, and tried to get them to tell 
 me where they lived, the names of the islands, and then the names
 
 294 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 of the numerals by my fingers, but all was of no good, until at last 
 I sent for my little ships (Tactic models), and laid down five, and 
 Bulibasi went off like a rocket, and gave me the numerals up to 
 12.* From this we made a jump at nose and secured it, and then 
 ran rapidly over the parts of the body. A great stand was made 
 at 7nan, but was secured at last triumphantly. Yes and no were a 
 difficulty, and good was not secured, but come and go were got at 
 with the help of Vatese. It was interesting to see how he jumped 
 at some things at once with a smiling face, while others he gave 
 up altogether. Pictures he could make little of, except those well 
 coloured, and we could not get the idea of a house from him. 
 Coco-palm was the only thing got from an uncoloured picture. 
 The little wheezy peezy fellow was the most awake, though he 
 only seemed to wish to curl himself in the sun and sleep. The 
 weather changed during church from quite fine to squally and 
 rain, and we profited by shifts to get well to windward, passing 
 Tougariki at dark, and getting abreast of Lopevi at daylight. 
 
 May yd. — Very uncertain weather all day and heavy rain. Got 
 in between Ambrym and Pentecost, and there under the land was 
 a white schooner with a French flag. Of course it was the 
 "Lconie," late " Mavis," and I sent for her master (an English- 
 man). He had an " Armement de Cabotage," and a " Permis 
 de depart." So I respected the flag, and told him he had better 
 go to Nounea at once. He said, " I heard that an order was to 
 cojrie out on the ist of March that no vessel was to go to sea 
 (from Nounea) without a French captain, and so I went to sea 
 before the ist of March." He told me, and his log substantiates 
 it, that he left twenty-seven men at Havannah Harbour, and had 
 now twenty-six on board. His whole course is irregular. He 
 said two of his men had deserted here. I said, " Then I suppose 
 you detain them against their will ? " " No ! " he said ; " but if I 
 wasn't to force them to stop on board they would go directly, they 
 change their minds so." " Then how do you recruit them ? " I 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 Chap. VIII.] LABOUR VESSELS. 295 
 
 said. " I pull along shore, I, or the mate, and buy some yams or 
 what not, and then I offer them a knife or two knives, or a knife 
 and a tomahawk to come, and they give it to their friends, who 
 come doAvn with them, and they come with me. The chiefs have 
 nothing to do with it; they have very little power in these islands." 
 The masters of the May Queen and of the Sybil had repeated 
 exactly the same thing to me, so that the voluntary recruiting is 
 all rubbish, and engagement is all nonsense. These people neither 
 understand why they go, nor where, or what they are to do, or 
 when return. They only care for the knife and the tomahawk. 
 Without throwing dirt at either the planter in Queensland, or the 
 master of the vessel or the agent, one may say, as between the 
 planters and missionaries and their influence, that the natives 
 learn the vices of civilisation from the plantation and the virtues 
 from the mission. Were one to throw a boy into a public school, 
 or still nearer the mark, a factory, without the influence of home 
 or tutor, or even dame, where would a lad be ? and where if sent 
 to college with heads whose chief aim is to raise their conception 
 of, and belief in, purity and charity? 
 
 I sent for this fellow's interpreter, whom he had taken on board 
 a few days ago, and he came, and on reaching the deck was 
 paralysed by fear, seeing so many people moving about, and 
 couldn't move. Barnes led him along like a little girl, and he 
 came creeping up, and then shivered all over and began to 
 whimper. I sent for the little boy, but it was no good, he only 
 got out, " He makey fight me." At last the man came and 
 recognised this captain, who said tliat he had left the boy with 
 Davies and the man with Young. The two natives looked at 
 each other, and then the one from the schooner said Aroa, or 
 something like that, and they instantly fell to talking. His face 
 cleared up and all was right, though he still kept shivering. My 
 fellow made a bite at his own arm with a point and expressive 
 gesture at me, clearly meaning that the other thought he had been 
 brought on board to be eaten. Between them all we clearly 
 made out that these two fellows of mine came from a couple of
 
 296 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 villages a few miles north of this south point of Pentecost, where 
 there is a fair anchorage, says this master of the schooner. 
 
 I let him go, and then resolved to stand off for the night, as the 
 homes of these two fellows were close to. 
 
 May ^t/i. — At 2 a.m. wore to northward. Got in with the land 
 and made the natives point out, point by point, but it was 2 p.m. 
 before we got opposite the place which they recognised as theirs. 
 The island is composed of old, very old coral limestone. Crystals 
 in veins occur, and a good quantity of stalagmitic deposit lies 
 about on the beach. The rocks closely resemble those at Mango 
 and at the south-Avest of Viti Levii, and have occasionally casts of 
 recent shells. The vegetation is indescribably rank and dense, 
 but cocoa-nuts stand in profusion right up to the highest parts, 
 which maybe 1,800 feet. Is the island rising or falling ? One 
 can't say. But certainly it is being undermined and dissolved, 
 and carried away by the sea below and rain from above, and I 
 should fancy, by the look of the vegetation actually overhanging 
 the sea so that one cannot get along at high tide, that the 
 crumbling aAvay is going on pretty quick. Oh, the sweltering 
 heat and damp ! We landed at a chink in the rocks. The 
 natives whom we had seen all day along the beach in parties of 
 ten or twelve scampered along to meet us in a friendly way, and 
 presently, as they came near, called out in tremendous excite- 
 ment, Bidibasi ! Biilibasi ! and then, when they saw the little 
 boy, Taienok! Tevejiok ! and crowded around, seizing hold of 
 Bulibasi's hands, and patting and caressing him. When he got 
 out of the boat he pointed to me, and told them all, Man-i-wa ! 
 Man-i-wa ! Some of these were really good-looking and pleasing- 
 looking, in the same " gem-e " as Bulibasi, and instantly reminded 
 me of Fijians. These men wear a piece of string round the 
 waist and a piece of matting, about six inches in width, as a 
 maro. An old chief was there whom they called Tura/iga, like 
 Fijians, and who seemed to hold aloof and keep silence. A little 
 boy screamed at us to try and make us understand some story 
 about the death of a man whose grave was by the beach with
 
 Chap. VIII.] JIIOTA ISLAND. 297 
 
 stones over it and a couple of palms of some sort of which I don't 
 know the quality. There were crotons, too, of a sort which I 
 don't remember having seen before. Stanley went up the steep 
 path which leads to the village, but I couldn't do it with my 
 greasy shoes (though I afterwards, when too late, found an easier 
 path), but he saw nothing worth notice. He got a bow and some 
 well-made arrows. 
 
 These fellows had the nose pierced and bits of bamboo, or 
 what not, in them. Two had their hair done like Tannese. Not 
 bad fellows. 
 
 Afay 5///. — Rain ! Rain ! Every and all day without ceasing. 
 Ran to leeward of Santa Maria. Saw fires on the beach and 
 people waving. Stood up to Vanua Lava, and made a couple 
 of tacks in the evening. Everything very close. Boxing about 
 all day and all night and no nearer to Mota, 
 
 M(7y 6f/i. — Got steam at 3.30 a.i\i., and went on towards Port 
 Patteson. Passing between Low Islands and the South Bluff, m 
 spite of tide rips, which looked frightening, looked into the bay, 
 and then stood over to Mota, and landed on W.N.W. side in a 
 little nook, a boat's length long, which is handy enough, but not 
 so good on the whole as the south side of a big rock, further north, 
 
 MuTA, N.W. 13'. 
 
 about one-third of a mile. A number of natives met us, among 
 whom were women. The men all have frizzled but not woolly 
 hair. We saw two or three very like New Zealanders in face and 
 features. Stanley soon began a little vocabulary ; * we could not 
 "et to understand whether the missionaries were here or not, but 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 298 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 presently got them to lead us to their house. The front of the 
 beach is a mass of old coral passed into limestone, on which 
 new coral is growing, and it being low tide we had the animals, 
 pale cobalt and pink, yellow, and purply-brown, growing at the 
 end of stumpy branches, while a rich brown flat fellow spreads 
 himself out, with the most vivid green spots lying in the hollows of 
 his surface. I broke a bit, and found the porous mass to be full 
 of clear gelatinous matter, slimy, in short. Perry found a milli- 
 pede, green and purple, and looking very like a balolo. We 
 climbed to the top of the steep slope from the shore, and soon 
 came to a clearing, where was a dilapidated European house, 
 verandah rotting and roof shaky. Some men were standing on 
 the verandah, and I asked one his name. He said George 
 Sarawia, and presented Edward Wogale [the two native mis- 
 sionaries]. The house seemed to be divided into a small sleep- 
 ing-room at each end, and a middle room, which is used, as I 
 suppose, as a schoolroom. A church was close at hand, very 
 small, and lined with mats. We find that Mota and Vanua 
 Lava, Star Island, or Merealava, and Gana, or Santa ISIaria 
 speak the same tongue. I wrote a note to Mr. Codington of 
 regret that I had not seen him. We gathered a itw crotons and 
 dracc^nas and came away. The heat here is fearful. The natives 
 are pleasing-looking people, but very dirty compared with those 
 of Samoa, or Fiji even. It was unfortunate that we could not 
 communicate in any way at all. Nor could we find a chief of any 
 sort or kind. We got easily into our boat again, and made sail 
 at 11.30 A.M. to a fine breeze. At 2.30 p.m. a sail was reported 
 by the mast-head-man, and as she was a fore and aft schooner, 
 I hauled up and furled, and at 4.30 was rewarded by seeing 
 H.M.S. " Conflict," which I had been looking out for. I took her 
 in tow, and came to an anchor in Port Patteson, North or Musa 
 Bay. She has got a very good interpreter from Star Island 
 (Meralaba), whom the ship's company have dressed up in a 
 delightful Christy Minstrel dress. Really a capital sort of fellow, 
 I should say.
 
 Chap. VIII.] VANUALAVA. 299 
 
 We anchored at 4.30 p.m. in the (north) Musa Bay of Port 
 Patteson, a capital place, and well surveyed by Mr. Tilly, of the 
 Melanesian mission, well sheltered in all directions, and I should 
 think an excellent place in the hurricane season, as no wind will 
 bring a bad sea in. 
 
 May ^t/i. — Up at 6,30, and went to the river Rhympani, 
 pulHng some way up it. The vegetation splendid ; the water a 
 little milky, and soon turned my boat's bottom to a pale yellow. 
 We landed at the entrance, and I got a splendid bowl, which 
 will do for a waste-paper basket. They use it to put the pud- 
 dings of yam and cocoa-nut in, and parted with it willingly for 
 a large knife which I had. These knives, which cost 3s., are 
 the very best trade that one can have. They go everywhere 
 for their full value. I fancy that here and at Mota these people 
 never had any covering at all before Europeans came. A man 
 appeared at Mota perfectly naked, without a suspicion of shame 
 about him, a fine man too, and well made. I don't think these 
 people can be very cleanly. There was nothing like the 
 Samoan cleanliness of dress, and their bodies are very much 
 covered with sores and cicatrices, and look dusty moreover. 
 Every belly looked well filled. A regular travelled ape came up 
 while we stood at this village at the entrance of the stream, and 
 talked a good bit of English. He had been to Sydney. His 
 hair was raised to a high frizzled ridge on the crown like a cock's 
 comb, and on the sides was worked into balls, and was more 
 frizzled than woolly. His expression was not disagreeable. I 
 had seen a man at Mota with a head dressed in the same manner, 
 but with less on the top and more on the side of the head — not 
 at all unlike pantaloon in a pantomime. I got from this place a 
 curious standard-looking fern, growing in the stiff marshy red 
 soil, like the soil at Fernando Po. 
 
 May ^th. — Stanley, Reade and Harrison went off at 9 and had 
 a famous walk to the sulphur springs — they say famous — a tho- 
 roughly good walk but hard work, four miles on flat and two or 
 three on slope. Coming back the tide had risen, and they had to
 
 300 COMMODORE GOODENO UGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 make a long wade through the sea over their hips. Weighed at 
 5.10 as soon as they came back. 
 
 May Wi. — A fine breeze and wafted along finely. 
 
 May gt/i. — Puffs of wind early, and in the forenoon it came 
 right ahead. Saw Tongoa, Tongariki, and at dusk, Erromango 
 right ahead. 
 
 May 10th. — Going along Erromango early. Missed Elizabeth 
 Bay and went on to Dillon Bay before finding it out. Elizabeth 
 Bay does not deserve the name, and is a very slight bend of 
 coast ; there is, moreover, no river. At Cook's Bay there is a 
 considerable stream, navigable for boats for some distance. 
 
 We landed at 7.30 a.m., and at once saw Mr. Robertson, the 
 missionary, and having found out, beyond a doubt, that it was 
 Dillon Bay, sent off to anchor the ship, which was done. Mr. 
 Robertson most gentle and pleasant mannered, with a good house. 
 He had suffered from the earthquake of March 28th, which had 
 brought in a wave, certainly forty feet high, at his house, had 
 washed his wall down, had carried his boat two-thirds of a mile 
 up stream, and also a large tree, and had thrown a rock of eight 
 or ten tons' weight a hundred yards up the bed of the stream. 
 We walked with him, seeing nothing interesting but a fine view 
 between the hills. He puts the population of Erromango at 
 3,000. They are diminishing, partly from infanticide and abor- 
 tion, partly because when the young men go away the chiefs take 
 their wives, and get no children by them, partly from natural 
 causes, breeding in being one, dirt and scrofula another. There 
 are about 500 who attend church and are nominally Christian 
 worshippers. Mr. Robertson took great pains to say that they 
 were only attendants, and not received into the church. Looked 
 at the graves of the younger Gordon and McNair ; there is none 
 to Williams or the older Gordon. 
 
 We bathed in a fine pool of water which is always fresh, and 
 came away at 4. Here one sees very clearly that the coral is 
 but a skin to the volcanic formation. The stream has cut 
 through the coral, and its bottom and banks here, at the head of
 
 Chap. VIII.] 
 
 CORAL FORMATIONS. 
 
 \0\ 
 
 the navigable part and on the rapid, is just volcanic conglomerate. 
 The same thing is shown in another way at the south-west point 
 of Dillon's Bay, where the sea has washed away the coral and laid 
 the conglomerate, which has a very hard durable cement, 
 bare. 
 
 I have no doubt that a section of the island would show 
 thus : — 
 
 In the beginning of the volcanic disturbance which formed this 
 island, the crater was thrown up either from the sea or upon a 
 continent. But as the depth is so very great between islands it 
 is probable that there never was a continent here. The mountain 
 formed, the effort changed its place, and the probable result 
 would be a slow depression, during which the coral insect would 
 build on the promontory P, and partially on the intervening space 
 between P and F, which would become a bed of coral — coral 
 sand washed in from the barrier, and detritus washed down by 
 the rain from the mountain. There would thus be a barrier reef 
 and an anchorage inside it, and this would be for the most part 
 on the lee side of the island. On the other side a shore reef, 
 S, would be formed of varying width. At length the term of 
 the period of depression is reached, and the earth, never still, 
 is at this part again elevated. As the barrier reef rises the 
 surface wave eats into the sloping bank of coral, makes a cliff, 
 throws sand and debris of coral into the former anchorage
 
 ^02 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 First Sea level at extreme depression 
 
 JrescntS&C' Cecrei 
 
 ground, and partly fills it up. The whole becomes solidified, and 
 the grains of sand, &c., &c., are united by the lime which is in 
 excess. 
 
 All seems to come out clear now. Of course interferences are 
 produced by an excess of action of sea waves, of denudation, &c. 
 The very conglomerate may be due to water, or to an eruption, I 
 know not which. 
 
 Bed of stream in a re-entering angle of a bay.
 
 Chap. VIII.] 
 
 CORAL FORMATIONS. 
 
 o^o 
 
 At a bluff where the sea has broken down tlie coral till the 
 conglomerate appears. 
 
 // //////// 
 
 // 
 
 There is one more thing which has to be accounted for, 
 stratification of the limestone or coral deposit, and that is, I 
 think, to be explained thus : — 
 
 M 
 
 A B is the present outline of the cliff, C D that of volcanic 
 conglomerate or otherwise. When at a fitting depth the coral
 
 304 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII 
 
 built on promontory P, and a bed of detritus was formed in 
 MACE., which would, of course, stratify. By-and-by, at a 
 point of exposure, the whole true coral structure M would be 
 washed away and the stratified beds would be laid bare as cliffs 
 studded with shells and having occasional lumps of volcanic rock 
 imbedded in them. 
 
 Suppose the island of Nairai or Mbatriki in Fiji, to cease sub- 
 siding and to rise, and the whole of these features would be 
 exhibited. 
 
 There is still another distinct formation in these islands which 
 I conceive to be anterior to volcanic eruption, viz., the islands of 
 Pentecost and Aurora • but about this I don't feel sure. The 
 fact of the isles and land on the Periphery of Fiji being of this 
 class would seem to show it. In Fiji, however, it might be that 
 the centre is falling, and the Periphery rising like an enlarging 
 ulcer. 
 
 May I \th. — Steaming steadily in a flat calm. Saw the "Chance " 
 and sent to board her ; found that she had sixty-seven men on 
 board, mostly from Tanna. Only six were from Erromango, and 
 two or three from Vate. Went on at 6.30, having mustered and 
 inspected, and having found her to be short of provisions, and 
 about to call at Mare for them.' 
 
 May \2th. — At i a.m. saw Mare and also a small island to the 
 north-west, having been drifted a long Avay ; also a fore and aft 
 schooner. It was calm, so I stopped, and she drifted seven miles 
 west by 6 a.m. when I went on again. We were fourteen miles 
 from Mare. Got to North West Bay at 8.45, and pulled on 
 shore, opposite a wall and gate of an enclosure, but saw no pos- 
 sibility of landing. We had steamed in to half-a-mile of the 
 beach and had passed by a nasty knoll or two of coral, at about 
 one mile off— most dangerous and disagreeable. There may 
 have been five fathoms on them. A native came wading to us 
 from the shore, which is all coral rag, and piloted by him we got 
 to a good bay, with a very i ntricate channel, and so on shore. 
 The village is called RoJif and is the chief village of the island,
 
 Chap. VIII.] ISLAND OF MARE. 
 
 505 
 
 being the head-quarters of the Mission Station. Mr. Jones, who 
 has made Mare what it is, was away on a visit of inspection to 
 the back of the island, but a lad took one of his horses and went 
 off to tell him as soon as we, />., Stanley, Perry, Messer and I, 
 decided to walk to Undine Cove. Many of these fellows could 
 talk English, and we found our way with them and with the 
 teacher, a nice fellow, with a pleasant, open face, and agreeable 
 manners. All the nice, pleasant. South Sea Island manners came 
 out ; all offered their hands, some an orange or a cocoa-nut. 
 The church is a famous great place, a -y shape, and would hold 
 500 people; and Mr. Jones's house is an elegant, pretty cottage. 
 He and his wife, and all but a servant, had been away for three 
 or four days, but every door of every room was open to the outer 
 air, and books, pictures, and knicknacks were in their places 
 undisturbed ; he must be a man of great tact and judgment as 
 well as skill. Each native house has its large compound, and its 
 wall of coral stones round it, with plenty of fruit trees planted 
 within it. A young man who told me that Mr. Jones had taken 
 him to England was building a store, close to a house which he 
 had already put up for himself of lath and white coral plaster, 
 with English windows. He rather frightened me by saying that 
 there was but two fathoms on those knolls off the ba}-, but I 
 looked at the ship and found that she had already turned outside. 
 We got a guide and went over the hills of coral, which is here in 
 three or four terraces. The top seems nearly level ; trees are small, 
 and ferns of six or seven sorts plentiful. The screw-pine has larger 
 leaves than I ever saw it with elsewhere. Cocoa-nuts abound on 
 the lower ledges near the sea, and there are some on the top, but 
 not many. Wherever we came on a patch of cocoa-nuts on the 
 top, there we found a fir tree or two, which looks as if they had 
 been planted. If screw-pines would make good bags for sugar a 
 good business might be made. Perry found lots of employment 
 in catching butterflies, but a lovely blue and black could not be 
 caught, though it was plentiful. 
 
 After six miles or so, during which we had passed through two
 
 3o6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 or three cotton patches, we reached a chff, which must be the 
 high point of the island, and not less than 500 feet. It is about 
 three miles, or perhaps five, from the north-west corner of the 
 island. Here the trees were larger ; cocoa-nuts which we passed 
 had their stems hollowed into a deep pouch which catches the 
 water as it flows down the trunk, and acts as a little well or stoop 
 for drinking. A nice lad had met us half way, leading a donkey 
 with two boxes of oranges, &c. Directly he saw us he seized his 
 oranges, crammed them into our hands, and when I tried to give 
 him a bright threepenny piece, called out, " No ! No ! No ! no 
 pay!" holding his hands in the air. He immediately turned to 
 go with us, apologised for his only having a maro on, " because 
 he had been at work in the bush," asked to carry my bush knife, 
 and told me his name was James. Such a nice, frank, open- 
 faced boy. 
 
 On reaching this high part we found the sea before us on the 
 west coast. The view was lovely at this point. A steep slope 
 led to the deep blue sea. The straggling, but well made path, 
 with young cocoa-nuts on either hand, was very pretty. AVe ran 
 down it, and at 200 feet or so, found ourselves in the village of 
 Giiaviha, which gives its name to the district. People rushed out 
 to meet us ; men to offer an orange or a cocoa-nut, women with 
 babies at their breasts, and heaps of children of all ages, from 
 tall, handsome girls, to little boys. We looked at the church, the 
 teacher's house, and a good, square public- house, eighteen feet 
 high in the middle and matted, all good of their kind, and then 
 accompanied by all the boys and girls, walked on. Very pleasant 
 to hear the laughter and fun of this tribe after the dull, driven, 
 sad, and bad look of the New Hebrideans. We now walked to 
 the foot of the hill near the beach. Each village has a wall and 
 gate to keep pigs from trespassing. 
 
 About ten miles in all brought us to Ndjit or Ncdtchd, a village 
 in which Mr. Jones has a house, the old INIission House, and the 
 chief, Naisikne, also has an European one. At the house, part 
 of which has a second story, we found Mrs. Jones and a Mrs.
 
 Chap. VIII.] ISLAND OF MARE. 307 
 
 Carter, who gave us oranges and cherimoyas, and talked. Mr. 
 Jones was some distance off examining schools, and the natives 
 were up in the bush at work. 
 
 They had not known of our coming or would have come in 
 crowds to see an English Man-of-war. Some delightful answers 
 to questions were obtained in different quarters. One man was 
 asked, "Are you a Roman Catholic?" "No, sir; I am an 
 Englishman ! " Another, *' Is there any French authority on the 
 island ? " " No, sir ; but they talk of sending two gens cV amies 
 and a corporal." Presently JNIr. Carter came in. He lives here 
 and buys cotton and fungus from the natives, with calico and 
 tobacco. We soon after went to the shore, but the ship was 
 already three miles off up the coast, having sent in a boat to this 
 very spot, which did not find us. Fortunately Mr. Carter had a 
 boat, and we took it at his suggestion, after trying in vain to make 
 a signal. A wretched American, hoseless and miserable, was 
 loafing on the shore, and a Tokilao Avoman, whose straight, flat 
 hair and yellow complexion looked horrid by the side of the 
 black girls of Mare'. 
 
 The coast line here is peculiar, the lower range of coral is eaten 
 into, and the outline is thus : — 
 
 with bays and points of varying size. On one point cocoa-nuts 
 predominate, and on another, pines. It was a long pull, we were 
 an hour and a quarter in the boat, and got on board at 4.15. A 
 boat had gone ashore at a cove south of Undine apparently, and 
 which they call Tadinc. The whole coast line is much out, and 
 the island is five miles to the eastward of the position marked in 
 the chart. The little island to the north-west is seven miles to 
 
 X 2
 
 308 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. VIII. 
 
 the east of the bearing, or twelve miles east of the position on the 
 chart. Picked up this boat, and steamed on past Castle Head, 
 covered with fir trees, and a lovely object in the evening light — 
 the rocks pink, the grass bright, and the trees with plenty of burnt 
 sienna in their colour. It is singular that the south coast is a mass 
 of fir trees, and only an occasional palm is seen ; while tlie north 
 is a mass of palms, with an occasional fir tree high on the hill. So 
 much for aspect. 
 
 We agreed that we had spent a most agreeable day, and that in 
 all our walks we had always rejoiced at having undertaken a trip. 
 But I was glad of this visit, as it revived my faith and interest in 
 the Mission work. Here is a grand result achieved by an intelli- 
 gent man, with twenty years' labour. He saw the generation 
 which is coming of age, born here, and they grew up under his eye. 
 They are docile, intelligent, and amiable ; and their frank faces are 
 a great contrast to the sad, slave -like aspect of the Api or Aoba 
 boys. Perhaps they are more yielding, and when they have sur- 
 rendered are not so firm as a New Hebridean. Chi sa ? I wish 
 Mr. Jones had been there. He has eleven schools, and every 
 child in the island goes to school. Mrs. Jones did not know the 
 population. Each case is so surrounded by circumstances which 
 modify its condition, that one can hardly predict or lay down a 
 law about race, climate, or soil ; but one can safely say " Blessed 
 lire those who live on a poor soil like this, and who must labour." 
 Their labour is daily doing them good. It almost seems as if 
 Buckle's theory — which is drawn out too symmetrically for truth — 
 may have something in it when applied to volcanic and fertile 
 islands, as against flat and poor soils like these. How very true 
 it sounds when comparing these with the New Hebrides — 
 " Happy are the people that are in such a case, yea happy are 
 they who have the Lord for their God." 
 
 Steamed away till 8 p.m., then made sail and lifted the screw 
 with the watch, making six fleets of top burtons ; walked him 
 
 up- 
 
 May \it/i. Drifting along three and four knots all night, and
 
 Chap. VI 1 I.J RETURN TO SYDNEY. 309 
 
 saw the Isle of Pines* all to-day. It is a hill, with low slopes on 
 two levels ; the flats only covered with pines. Outlying islets also 
 covered with pines. Dropping along, wind from E.N. E., N.E., and 
 N.N.E. On getting to N.N.E. it became very moist and warm. 
 A lovely night. All the stars in heaven out. 
 
 May 14///. — It fell calm after noon, and I got steam at 8.30. 
 
 May 15///. — Put down the steam in forenoon; rain in torrents 
 all day, and in showers all night. The wind flying about, but 
 generally from N.W. and W. Reefed at 5.30; but at 7. the wind 
 came to S.S.W., and I tacked and out reefs. 
 
 May i6i/i. — Calm in middle watch, then at 8 a.m. a breeze 
 from the south, with swell, drawing gradually to S.S.E. ; so that at 
 8. she laid her course and went six, seven, and eight knots. A 
 long, dull day ; but sunny and dry. 
 
 May 17///. Fine breeze, S.S.E. and S.E. by S. ; but still a head 
 sea. Came very near 700 miles from Sydney at noon. 
 
 May I S///.— Squally, and losing the wind ; but in the end it all 
 came back to S.S.E. The glass very high indeed. 
 
 May \()th. — Curiously puffy. The wind at one time from the 
 south and light; at another, from the south-east, and going 8-5 
 knots. I was on the point of raising steam two or three times, 
 but held on, and was repaid by a good breeze all night, falling in 
 the morning. 
 
 May 20th. — Ordered steam, and at 11 a.m. went on, twenty- 
 eight revolutions; queer unsettled weather, squalls from the south, 
 west, south, south-east, and finally a breeze from east-south-east, 
 turning to east, north-east, north, north-west, and so to west, just 
 as I had been expecting for days. We just laid our course. . . . 
 The wind came to south-west, furled sails ; finally to south, fresh ; 
 and then died away, coming off" from west again at 4 a.m. 
 
 May 22ud. — Anchored in Neutral Bay, Sydney Harbour, at 
 
 8 P.M. 
 
 * New Caledonia.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Fiji — New Hebrides— Santa Cruz. 
 
 June \^th, 1875. — Sir Arthur Gordon embarked at noon; we 
 sailed at 12.30, and when outside at 1.30 made sail to a W.N.W. 
 wind. By 5 p.m. I was able to stop steaming, and to go under sail 
 alone nine knots. 
 
 June \^th. — Wind right aft ; obliged to steam again at 9 a.m. 
 
 June 16th. — Good breeze; went ten knots with sail only. Read 
 
 Darwin's " Coral Reefs." I ought to collect facts for him about 
 
 the Western Pacific — e.g., Lord Howe's Island and Norfolk 
 
 Island. Both grow coral, and are in a latitude farther removed 
 
 from the equator than any example which he has given in the 
 
 southern hemisphere. I might measure the heights of the steps of 
 
 coral in Erromango or Sandwich (Vate'). 
 
 * * * * 
 
 Is the story of Hans and Grettel a myth — thus : — Hans is a 
 foolish, untaught man, seeking his fortune (Grettel) ; and in his 
 ignorance of what is likely to bring him his desire in a new land 
 he always tries the wrong thing. Hans' mother is nature and the 
 science of nature. Hans, for instance, comes to Australia, and 
 strives to grow wheat in New South Wales, because he grew it in 
 England. Also he dreams of cattle stations in Fiji and New 
 Guinea; or of sheep runs in Fiji and Tonga, because in Australia 
 and New Zealand he has grown sheejD and oxen with success. 
 Hans and Grettel applies also to the English engineers in Spain, 
 followed by the more scientific German engineers, Avho succeeded 
 after the failures of the first.
 
 Chap. IX.] FIJI. 3 1 1 
 
 June \Wi. — A lovely breeze sprang up at 7 a.m. ; and by noon 
 we were under sail alone. By 6 p.m. the screw was raised, and we 
 went gaily under sail, 9.5 knots. 
 
 Finished Darwin's " Coral Reefs." The fact of alligators being 
 found as far east as Santa Cruz is a curious one. What effect can 
 it have upon the argument concerning old and new land, perpetua- 
 tion of ancient forms, areas of elevation and depression ? I don't 
 know. Darwin makes all the New Hebrides, Solomons, Santa 
 Cruz, &c., rise, except Vanikoro. I am puzzled about Aneiteum j 
 Tanna, &c., are more easy. 
 
 June \()th. — A noble breeze all day, with a few squalls, but not 
 many. 
 
 June 20th. — Got steam at 7, it being almost calm. Two ham- 
 mocks fell overboard at 8.15, and we lowered a boat in one minute 
 and ten seconds to pick them up, going 6-5 knots. Hill and 
 Clarke's lowering and disengaging apparatus is thoroughly satisfac- 
 tory, and goes as clear as possible, no hitch. 
 
 Read "Ten Years in South Central Polynesia," by Rev. 
 Thomas West (J. Nisbet, pubhsher), containing some very interest- 
 ing and circumstantial accounts of volcanic eruptions in the Tongan 
 Islands between 1846 and 1857. 
 
 June 2yd. — Saw Kandavu (Fiji) in p.m. 
 
 June 24///. — Anchored in Levuka at 2 p.m. 
 
 June 25///. — Sir Arthur Gordon landed at 11 a.m. 
 fune 26t/i. — Landed at Nasova, and thence to bathe in Waitovu, 
 which is more than ever delightful to-day. It is sad to pass 
 through Waitovu village; fifty deaths took place there from 
 measles. Cakobau came from Bau in the " Lurline," and went to 
 Draiba. 
 
 June 2()th. — At noon Cakobau made his soro* to Sir Arthur 
 Gordon, who was seated in front of the centre of Nasova, with his 
 staff, standing. A procession set out, with Cakobau and his inter- 
 preter at its head. When it had reached Nasova the tail was still 
 
 * Submission.
 
 312 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 at Draiba. Two turtles and a pile of yams were presented, and 
 Cakobau took a root of yagona, broke off a bit, and gave it to 
 Sir Arthur Gordon in the visual fashion, who received it 7nore 
 Fijiaiio, and made use of the Fijian phrase. 
 
 July lit. — I landed to walk beyond Cawaci. The bays seem 
 almost desert edby their population. Walked home, the ins and 
 outs of the bay make it a long operation ; and bathed by the way 
 at Waitovu. From Cawaci, with all its windings, took me from 
 2.45 to 5.45. It cannot have been less than eight or nine miles. 
 
 July 2ud. — Weighed at 5, and proceeded under steam, with Sir 
 Arthur Gordon, to go to Savu Savu. Went west of Goro. 
 
 July yd. — Anchored in Savu Savu bay at 8.30 a.m. It is very 
 lovely. We landed at 11.30, looked over the promontory, and 
 then to Mr. Pillan's, and had a bathe in his reservoir. He has 
 planted cane, the Doobuta Sausan, and others ; and is now 
 putting up an American mill. He has a thorough good dam to 
 his reservoir, and so far has put all together well. He gets bricks 
 for his buildings at about a mile off, and is supplied with them at 
 ^3 a thousand, bricks from Sydney being ^15 a thousand, 
 famous bricks too. Sent the boat off and walked over the pro- 
 montory, through some good thick bush, nice and dry. Saw some 
 fine orchids, and cut a branch of a very peculiar bush, with very 
 twisted leaves. Got the boat again by the brick-field. There is 
 any amount of clay there, but they will soon be short of fuel of all 
 sorts. I took away some bricks to show at Sydney and elsewhere. 
 The boat brought us luncheon, and we sailed down round the 
 middle bay to the sulphur springs, in which the water is unmis- 
 takably boiling, and coming out alternately at one place or the 
 other, according either to some subterranean choking up, or else 
 according to whether the mouth is open or closed, by stuff to be 
 cooked. 
 
 I am told the openings here have failed a good deal in the last 
 seven years. The water was nasty, though clear. It comes up 
 through a funnel, which the natives have filled with good-sized 
 stones to near the top. On this they lay grass and leaves, and
 
 Chap. IX.] FIJI. 31 
 
 o 
 
 bury the food in baskets within the same. The human beings 
 killed in fight were boiled here too, once upon a time. There is 
 the same wretched tale of destruction of the natives by measles 
 everywhere. In a village of forty-eight, sixteen died. Mr. Water- 
 house, the missionary, told me that since he first came here, 
 twenty-five years ago, and before the measles, thirty per cent, of 
 the natives had disappeared ; and now twenty-five per cent, more 
 have gone. Put this together, and about 200,000 must have been 
 the original population, if 95,000 to 100,000 are now left. 
 
 July ^th. — Entered Levuka, under sail, at 8.30 a.m. Mr. Layard 
 showed me a freestone from Nandi, something like cinnabar, and 
 a fine sedimentary rock, fit, I should think, for grindstones. Also 
 some black crystals, which I have seen in Sydney ; I almost think 
 it is a form of tin. Sailed at 5 p.m. 
 
 July 6///.— The breeze fell very light, and I only crept into 
 Suva at I P.M., using a little coal to steam from the entrance to 
 the anchorage, as the wind was too light to beat. Landed and 
 went to a house, where we had a good view of the Rewa and all 
 the country round. 
 
 July ']th. — Went to Nanuku harbour in the steam pinnace, and 
 to a saw mill, and got some specimens of native woods. Walked 
 a couple of miles into the wood and saw a wild nutmeg-tree, quite 
 eighty feet high (Crauford says that the true nutmeg is forty-five 
 feet in its own country). It is quite well tasted, and would no 
 doubt improve under cultivation. It is more oval, and of less 
 girth than our ordinary nutmeg. 
 
 At Nanuku bay I got a fine fern leaf like a lettuce, very deli- 
 cate, and growing in very juicy, clayey ground. The natives are 
 recovering heart and spirit certainly, and I have seen scores of 
 canoes going about, and general brisk traffic. 
 
 Coming away from Nanuku bay, we went into the little island 
 inshore and found a cave. It is all limestone, and is, I think, 
 broken remains of old coral reef. The cave has stalactites and 
 stalagmites. 
 
 July Zth. — Got away under sail at 9.30.
 
 314 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 July ^th. — Anchored at Nasova (Levuka), at 2 p.m., under 
 sail. 
 
 July \2th. — Received the deputation with my address at 12; 
 ianded at 3.30 ; paid some visits, and bathed in dehcious Waitovu 
 for the last time. The town in the evening very full of natives. 
 Heard that Bau is half burnt down, including the big church and 
 Cakobau's house. I think I see a difference in the manners of 
 the people. Firstly, they are more free ; secondly, they all say to 
 me, " Sa yandra saka" * and generally seem very friendly 
 indeed. 
 
 July 13///. — I got away at 1.30 p.m. The anchor had hooked 
 the coral hard, and we had trouble to get it ; but she canted 
 beautifully, and I might have sailed out of the usual passage but 
 that the pin of the shackle of the messenger broke at the wrong 
 moment, and with the first shackle in the hawse away we went. 
 Fortunately she wore round well, and by the carpenter's good 
 management it was joined, and the anchor hove up and fished 
 before we were in the Waitovu passage. By 2 p.m. sail was made, 
 and we were clear of everything. Went round north of Mokongai 
 and west of Goro, having to beat through between Goro and 
 Vanua Levu. Heavy breeze, staggering under first reefs, and 
 making a good mile an hour to windward. 
 
 July YA^th. — Beating about all day between Goro and Taviuni. 
 Slashed out of the Nanuku passage at midnight, leaving Fiji for 
 the last time, at the same hour of the night and by the same 
 entrance as I entered it twenty months ago. 
 
 July \^th. — Got before the wind, and went eight knots or so 
 steadily. 
 
 July iGlli. — Saw the island of Rotumah at 3 p.m., and ran 
 past the east end at 5. 1 5 ; anchored in Lee Bay, in ten fathoms, 
 at 6 p.m. a native came alongside in a whale boat from Malaka, 
 and engaged to come at 7 a.m. to take us to Noatoa. 
 
 July i']th. — Chocolate at 6.30, and by 7.30 were on shore in 
 
 * " Good moniintj, j/V " — literally, " You are awake."
 
 Chap. IX.] 
 
 ROTUMAH. 
 
 315 
 
 the middle of Lee bay. Several natives came to meet us, and 
 with difficulty we persuaded one to accompany us and carry a bag 
 or two for us ; then set out trudging. The villages are numerous 
 and small. There are about thirty of them, of which we visited 
 twenty-six. Perhaps there are, as has been stated, 2,600 souls on 
 the island, which would give in all about ninety souls to a village. 
 The island is in seven districts : — 
 
 Districts. 
 
 Itumutu 
 
 Ituten 
 
 ISIalaka 
 
 Oinafa 
 
 Noatoa 
 
 Pepse 
 
 Fauguta 
 
 Chiefs. 
 
 
 . Maraf. 
 
 
 . Albert. 
 
 
 , Marof. 
 
 
 
 R.C 
 
 . Riemkan, 
 
 R.C. 
 
 These divisions come down from old times, and they have 
 always been independent. No one is higher than another, but 
 they speak of Maraf as being the highest, while I should thmk 
 that Albert of Ituten is really the one of most influence. He 
 seems to have most people, and to be an intelligent fellow. Both 
 he and Riemkan speak English fairly. They told me that they 
 have a meeting of chiefs occasionally, which they call Fon, and 
 another name ; and that before attending this meeting they speak 
 each to their own people and ascertain their wants. One law, 
 they say, prevails ; and an offender is punished by a chief. All 
 this in the evening, when they came and sat in my cabin, Albert, 
 Riemkan, and Maraf of Itumutu, the " cut-off" part of the 
 island. 
 
 Our walk was not an unpleasant one. The villages are almost 
 continuous along the sandy beach, and have each an immense 
 mound of graves near the middle, and generally in front on the 
 beach top. The men were all off to see the ship, and only the 
 women remained, some indoors and some out fishing ; and
 
 o 
 
 1 6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 children innumerable. Some were like Tongans, and quite fine- 
 looking, and with strong hair standing up a little ; others were 
 more like line islanders, with mops of weaker-looking hair, and 
 narrower foreheads. The older people are tattooed, the younger 
 not at all. We went all along the north side of the island. The 
 beach seems generally higher than the inner land, which is often 
 swampy. At one place near Malaka, where the road cuts off a 
 point, it has been taken through a swamp. The sides are built 
 up high, and it is like a wide wall or causeway, all of blocks of 
 coral, ten feet wide ; — really a considerable work, for first and 
 last there must be a mile of it. This was done by Mr. Fletcher's 
 (the missionary's) advice. Generally our walk was on sand, but 
 often it led across a rough, rocky bit. Just before coming to 
 one of these our guide and porter said he was going home, and 
 didn't want to come any farther ; but we bucked him up and 
 got him to continue. As soon as we had crossed the bad part 
 
 tD 
 
 he was all right again. Somewhere here a stream of fresh water 
 
 bursts out of the basalt at low-water mark. A round hole has 
 
 been formed in the basalt, and in it we bathed in brackish water, 
 
 deliciously. 
 
 All these people live in poor houses, very low at the side ; I 
 
 suppose on account of the wind, and also, I suppose, on account 
 
 of the hurricane of February, 1874, which of course would 
 
 hurt the north more than the south side of the island a good 
 
 deal. 
 
 By noon we came to the missionary's house. He has a capital 
 
 house at Noatoa, one of the best that I have seen. Out scuttled 
 a nice-looking child, and ran to call her father, who soon ap- 
 peared ; the whole house and all as beautifully neat as could be. 
 ' Mr. Fletcher had a separate stone study, in which he kept his 
 things, books, &c, — a sort of refuge in case of a fresh hurricane, 
 with walls fifteen inches thick. He showed us his mats and his 
 crotons, and told us of the people. They are much in the same 
 state as when he wrote his last account in the Report. He de- 
 scribes them as not unamiable, but weak and wavering of purpose ;
 
 Chap. IX,1 ROTUMAH. 317 
 
 while they also are uncommonly sharp, and well able to take their 
 part in business matters. English traders are, he says, quite 
 beaten out of the field by these people, who can quite take their 
 own part. As a consequence, one finds that each district has a 
 whale-boat, some districts two whale-boats, in which they go along 
 the coast. These boats are built in Sydney, and cost ;^ 2 5 apiece. 
 The people are a little short of clothing now, but generally have 
 plenty. Mr. Fletcher has translated the New Testament, and 
 they buy it freely. He thinks that there is less subordination to 
 the chiefs, and less respect shown by young to old, than formerly, 
 and this is likely enough. Things new to the experience of the 
 young, are no less new to that of the old. The young, seeing 
 this, trust themselves as much as their fathers ; and this will par- 
 ticularly be the case with savage, unlearned people, as experience 
 and age is everything to them among whom there are no classes or 
 differences of opportunity affording an advantage. They gave us 
 dinner, and Mr. Fletcher also lent us his boat to go as far as the 
 French priest's village. We left him at 2.30 or so, and being well 
 steered by a fine old fellow, came to Faguta in safety. There is 
 navigation inside the reef throughout at high water, but when it 
 blows strong, as it did to-day, the sea breaks inside as well as out- 
 side. As we skimmed along, the boat's crew laughed, and were 
 delighted at the nearness to being swamped ; and they were still 
 more pleased when I gave the coxswain a present for them all at 
 the end of the journey. 
 
 We found the houses on the south side not nearly so knocked 
 about as those on the north side ; but there seemed less willing- 
 ness to greet one. At all the villages on the north side our noia 
 met with a ready reply of noia mao, or /wia viaoli ; but here there 
 was no answer. On the north side all the women cut their hair 
 short, but on this side some wore it long, with an improvement to 
 their appearance when it is strong in root and rises like a mane ; 
 but not so when it is flat and poor. The whole island is by the 
 way of one lotu or another. 
 
 The French priest was at his door, a young man of thirty-eight
 
 3l8 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 or so ; shy and suspicious. I asked him what chief was the 
 principal, he said Noatoa and Oinaf, and then correcting himself 
 said Riemkan (his own chief). We saw Riemkan's house after- 
 wards, with a huge cross on its door. A native acolyte, with long 
 hair, stood near him^ a repetition of a Portuguese one. By the 
 way, many of these people might pass for Southern Italians or 
 Portuguese. Did I say that all the houses are built on a founda- 
 tion of coral stones, filled in with sand, and about 2 ft. 6 in. or 
 3 ft. high. Before coming off we went to the house of our guide 
 to see his wife and four children. The delight of the boy, with 
 his piece of bread which I gave him, was amusing. I gave our 
 guide my knife. He said to Messer, " You very good man. 
 Captain very good man. I think man-of-war very good. No all 
 same other ships." Mr. Fletcher says that his word is taken, but 
 that if another Englishman says a thing, the natives say, " Then it 
 is a lie." AVhen the three chiefs came to, see me in the evening, I 
 strongly advised them to prohibit spirits, and to forbid the sale 
 of land altogether ; to let it for five, ten, or fifteen years, if they 
 liked, but no more. 
 
 July \Zth. — Weighed at 6 a.m., and slashed along, eleven knots, 
 nobly. 
 Jicly \<^th. — Wind falling ; got before the wind at 5.30. 
 July 20th. — Lovely weather; the wind east, and going eight 
 and nine knots. 
 
 July 21st. — Sighted Hinchinbrooke Island at 4.15 a.m., and 
 running by Montague Island (or Nguna), got off the south 
 entrance of Havannah Harbour (Vate), at 11.30. Nice light 
 breeze. Fine terraces of coral very clear all round the north end 
 of Vate. Montague and Hinchinbrooke Islands must be a subse- 
 quent formation to the last rise. Evidently Montague Island is 
 composed of three distinct craters. The whole of its shore is of 
 lumps of basalt. The south south-west beach is bounded by coral 
 ridges, just under water at low tide, 7vidc in the bays, and 7iart'07u 
 off the points. Made four tacks at the entrance of Havannah 
 Harbour, and then nearly lost all by a shift of wind. Finally
 
 Chap. IX.] HAVANNAH HARBOUR, VAT&. 319 
 
 came up capitally to an anchor by 4.30 p.m., having been boxing 
 about since 11.30 a.m. Sent to board the " Native Lass," which 
 is here. She is licensed to carry 112 men, but yet only measures 
 43 ft. by 19 ft. = 817 square feet = 68 men. But she is 8 ft. 6 in. 
 between decks, which gives 2 x 817. 
 
 Mr. Hebblewhite has got a church built ; the Rev. Mr. Ingles 
 preached here last Sunday, and on a passage in Jeremiah, exhort- 
 ing to industry and sociability and to patriotism. He is seventy 
 years old, and is retiring from the mission, and intends to print 
 the Old Testament in Aneiteumese. 
 
 I went to call on Mr. Macdonald, the missionary. The " Day- 
 spring," missionary schooner, left two days ago for Nguna, and 
 probably to-day for Cape Lisburn, in Espiritu Santo. Arranged 
 to walk up the valley. 
 
 July 22nd. — Landed at 7 a.m., with jMr. Macdonald, and five 
 natives to carry things. Went up the valley for about four miles 
 and a half, passing through the village of Male Vau, the people 
 rather frightened ; and all, the women especially, so filthy and 
 hideous, quite shocking ; the women smeared with turmeric and 
 ochre. This all on the flat, rising perhaps a hundred feet. We 
 then rose nine hundred or a thousand feet to the top of a great 
 Crete, and found just the same coral rag at the top as at the 
 bottom. At three-fifths, or three-fourths, of the way up, I saw a 
 piece of coral with well-marked structure. What evidence of age ! 
 Only just the heart of the island seems to be volcanic, and all the 
 rest great, outreaching, uplifted coral beds, in four or five terraces, 
 and much worn and cut away. From the hill-top I suppose we 
 may have gone two to three miles more, making, perhaps, nine 
 miles in all ; and got to a small village, little more than a family. 
 There were but four men, five women, and two boys of seven to 
 nine years old— all hideous and dreadful alike. One man had 
 been in Queensland, and, except a few words of English, was quite 
 undistinguishable from the others. All were frightened when we 
 appeared. The women ran away, but they re-appeared after a 
 bit ; and we sat down to chat and eat our luncheon. I got a
 
 320 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 good spear and a good club. The spear is called ola-ngau — ola, 
 spear : ngau, the sort of spear. The club is called tipu soleh 
 — i.e. that sort of club. There is, they say, another sort ; but I 
 did not see it. We gave them some tobacco, and some of my 
 orange-coloured handkerchiefs, which took greatly. Never were 
 more filthy people. After lunch we walked to a waterfall. The 
 water runs over a soapy earth, like that at Suva in Fiji ; and 
 which is, I doubt not, the fine detritus from coral beds, not a 
 volcanic stone. Gathered a few crotons, then turned back, and 
 came a slightly different way, descending earlier to the yalley, and 
 passing at its foot, or nearly so, another village, Malasinga, I 
 first was seen by a man chopping wood, who fled in dismay and 
 seized his double-barrelled gun ; but soon recovered himself, and 
 all came out. They were about twenty or thirty in number, and 
 the chief, whose house I paced, thirty-four paces good, quite a 
 hundred feet long, but otherwise like others, was a more import- 
 ant person. He had five wives, and, so far as I could make out, 
 no children. The Brisbane man was a most objectionable, imper- 
 tinent chap, and was the husband of a woman who had been in 
 Fiji, and was more intelligent-looking and good-natured than the 
 others. She spoke a little English too. I only saw one child, of 
 about nine, a girl. The Brisbane man, however, got some cocoa- 
 nuts, and gave them to us. All the men were chewing kava, and 
 spitting into cocoa-nut shells, and spoke with their mouths full of 
 the great ball of filthy stuff. Hence down the valley, and 
 touched at another village on the stream, which is here clear, 
 sweet, and swift. Here all were frightened too. There was one 
 child of two years here. All these villages have their ancestral 
 lallies, and we passed four groups in decay, where villages had 
 once been, but were no longer — a wretched sight indeed. Count- 
 ing Escaia this makes five villages, which have between them but 
 about two hundred people ; about six or eight children of over 
 four or five, and only about three below two years. In thirty 
 years there will be scarcely a single one left ; it is no doubt to be 
 attributed to infanticide, and to the procuring of abortion.
 
 Chap. IX.] SANDWICH ISLAND. ->2I 
 
 o- 
 
 Mr. Macdonald says that the worship of ancestors is confined 
 to those recently dead, for these lallies are made in a batali, and 
 then a feasting goes on, and singing and calling on ancestors. 
 After this is over, no more respect is shown them at all. There is 
 no notion of a Supreme Good Spirit, or of any Supreme God, as 
 far as he knows. There are six future states, the highest of which 
 is annihilation ; but he says all this is very hazy and uncertain. 
 None of them are certain of their facts, or agree in them. These 
 people eat the giant taro in the valley, and the dry small taro on 
 the hill ; both eat the wild yam and banana. To get the former 
 the hill is burnt, and the small wild yam is then easily dug ; it is 
 good. Mr. Macdonald says that the bread-fruit here has seeds, 
 and that the plant grows from seed, as I found it in Mota. 
 Got to the beach at 5.15, bathed in the stream, and so on 
 board. 
 
 July 2T,rd. — The properties here are paying their way with 
 Indian corn, and the planters say, were they allowed to procure 
 labour, would, they think, now go ahead. 
 
 Weighed at 2 p.m., going through the north passage and past 
 Mai. All these small islands — ]\Iai, Tonoa, INIataso, Nguna, 
 Tongariki, ^c. — are volcanic cones, with no sign of coral ; and 
 are, as I suppose, subsequent to the last upheaval of Sandwich 
 (Vate). Their shore reefs are very narrow. Tonoa has, I believe, 
 hot beds of earth, in which the natives cook their food. 
 
 July 24///. — Stood to the eastward, and back during the night, 
 and in a.m. ran in under Tonoa, and boarded the " Stanley.'"' I 
 rind that all these vessels carry people in proportion to cubic feet, 
 as well as in proportion to square feet, if their decks are over 
 6 ft. 6 in. She is commanded by a man who was, I think, rescued 
 by the " Blanche " from New Britain, or somewhere there. In an 
 evil hour I consented yesterday to take a mad wretch to his 
 home in Api to see his friends. He had stabbed a woman on 
 board the Stanley, and was reported to be mad as mad could be. 
 He said he lived near Mamuka Island, but we ran inside Mamuka 
 Island, continually stirring him up, past one point after another;
 
 322 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 and when Mamuka was thoroughly out of sight, he suddenly 
 started up and said that Goa/n, his town, was a long way back. In 
 hope that something might be done, I sent him ashore abreast of 
 the ship, near some big trees, where he landed. His friends soon 
 stripped him of all that he possessed. 
 
 This island of Api is much like Pentecost in general appear- 
 ance. Both on the south and north-west shores I saw very 
 evident coral Hmestone rock — very old — not in terraces, but 
 deeply scored. In many places along the south shores this sign 
 of recent upheaval was apparent. The sea washed a ridge of 
 limestone on which trees were growing. There seems to be a 
 little anchorage at the south-west point ; and again a mile and u 
 half south of the foreland is a bay, with a black beach between two 
 white beaches, both for small vessels. I might, perhaps, get into 
 the latter under steam. I did not care about it, as I was already 
 to leeward, and stood on. I got ninety-four fathoms, sand and 
 shells (brown), about a mile and a quarter off shore. There is 
 therefore certainly anchorage off this, though probably not under 
 fifteen fathoms. The island of La Menu is a /lat island, another 
 proof of its being an area of uplifting. Quantities of children 
 were playing about this place, south of the foreland, on the beach ; 
 but altogether I don't suppose Api to be now very thickly peopled. 
 On one part of the beach, on the south shore, the natives had lit 
 a fire, and had spread out mats (as I suppose) for sale. Fires 
 were lit in several places. 
 
 Messer tells me that Mr. Hebblewhite, on Deception Island, 
 found this year immense quantities of potsherds strewn about the 
 ground, which had been burnt. There is there clay fit for pottery 
 in ([uantities ; the business has now completely died out ; the 
 only vessels made are of gourds and cocoa-nuts. About 5.30, 
 tired with an unprofitable daj^, I squared yards and went away 
 towards Dip Point, in Ambym. Rounded Dip Point at 11.30 p.m. ; 
 a sensible smell of sulphur from the volcano. 
 
 July 2^th. — Stood on till 3.40 a.m. ; then wore. The breeze 
 had been very fresh in the channel, but light under the land.
 
 Chap. IX.] AMBRYM. X2X 
 
 Made a tack at 7, and at 7.40 came to an anchor under Dip 
 Point, or to westward of it, on a beautifully regular bank of 
 soundings, in seven fathoms, black sand. The whole shore here 
 is just volcanic dust of centuries ; the point of the cliff is of the 
 same. The dust from the volcano fell continually on the deck 
 during the night, and one had a coppery smell in nose and mouth ; 
 but it is delightfully cool and pleasant. Many natives came down, 
 one waving a branch. Women, too, came to the beach ; but men 
 and women were apart. The men wore a mat girdle, with a red 
 ribbon j the women, a titi of leaves. IMen and women in groups 
 apart. A canoe was launched, bearing a man with a bunch of 
 cock's feathers, and came within a ship's length, then turned and 
 went on shore again. On her landing, the women ran along the 
 beach, breaking off boughs of trees and waving them. I saw an 
 Albino— the lads walking with their arms round each other's 
 necks, the g\r\s foldtrant (this is more like Polynesia). 
 
 I landed with Perry at 2 p.m., close under the point. A crowd 
 of natives met us, filthy dirty, and friendly, feeling our arms and 
 backs to see the size. One spoke English, and quickly gave me 
 a number of words, with very fair intelligence of my meaning.""' 
 We were asked at once to go up to the village, and went up 
 accompanied by a crowd, who wanted us to buy all sorts of things 
 in the way of food— yams, taro, cocos (root), bananas, cocoa-nuts ; 
 but offered no other things. One wore a bundle of pigs'-tails 
 round his arm, with a bit of mother-of-pearl, &c. ; another, brace- 
 lets, two inches wide, of tortoise-shell. INIany had pigs' teeth.. 
 In their ears were often curls of tortoise-shell, and about their 
 necks cords of a fine white fibre of, I think, screw-pine, with 
 two or three pigs' tusks, like horns, curling up and behind the 
 neck. 
 
 I walked up to the village, and was shown the idols leaning 
 against a palisade of bamboos, thirty and forty feet long ; a screen 
 in front, of canes, and a roof overhead of light canes too. I after- 
 
 See Appendix. 
 
 Y 2
 
 324 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 wards visited three other villages, and found the arrangements 
 identical. The idols are of fern-stalk, or of a sort of palm ; a 
 head, with eyes, nose, and mouth, gigantic, and with little arms 
 comins down from the hair. In one case there was a woman's 
 figure, with breasts ; the style is very New Zealand indeed. They 
 are coloured with anatto and lime, white and red ; eyes in con- 
 centric circles, or diagonal stripes. The dead are buried all 
 about, and I should imagine that this is again a worship of 
 ancestors, for many figures are standing about, some old ; and in 
 the first village of Wakou there was a double set, one oldish and 
 one brand new. In the fourth village oi Lozuca I afterwards bought 
 one, which was standing by itself and rotting, and therefore 
 twenty or twenty-five years old ; but its paint was pretty fresh. 
 But it is different from any other, having a beak made from part 
 of a root, and being of hard wood. They took two knives for it. 
 In each village a tall lalli, pointed and hollow, formed a central 
 spot to the burial and idol-ground. The idols or ancestors each 
 had a stone, or one or more small circles of stones near ; and a 
 man who spoke a few words of English said that pigs were 
 brought there to be killed. At two of four villages the chief's 
 house contained crooked knees of wood, fairly carved, which it 
 was explained to me were for the purpose of killing pigs ; and 
 at Lowea a man was pointed out to me as either the priest or 
 talking man, whose office it was to kill pigs at the sacrificial 
 stone, by striking them on the head. I imagine this to take 
 place at the great wake or fair or ceremony which, as in the island 
 of Vate, takes place after the figures or memorials of ancestors are 
 set up. At Vate', according to the Rev. Mr. Macdonald, it is 
 customary to have thirty days' feasting on the inauguration of new 
 lallics. The four villages which I visited are exactly alike in all 
 respects. The chief's house has some distinction, being enclosed 
 "by a fence or wall, called wdru-war ; and there is a public-house. 
 The houses are low, not more than 5 ft. Gin. high for the chief, 
 and 5 ft. for the others, and grimy with smoke ; and things are 
 stuck uj) in the thatch of the roof for security. The women live
 
 Chap. IX.] AMBRYM. 325 
 
 apart, I imagine ; but am not sure. Men have two and three, 
 and I was shown one man who had five, wives. Either to-day is 
 one of their own gala days, or it was because we had come tliat 
 every one was painted, the women more than the men, and in red 
 and white, horizontal stripes, spots, concentric circles, and thus ; 
 
 too dreadfully filthy. When they peeped to look at us, they were 
 generally chased away by the men, who reviled them. They all 
 wore titis, called tiwiin. The men's girdle (of bark) is called 
 "UHiwa ; a narrow string of plaited grass goes over this, and is 
 called tc/. 
 
 I walked along the beach from the point to the west, which is 
 all volcanic dust, to a bluff of conglomerate (yellow), not hard, of 
 mud and small bits of basalt. On the beach are consolidated 
 flat slabs of bits of coral, rounded bits of basalt as big as large 
 peas. The beach is all black basaltic sand. I should say the 
 whole is rising, without doubt. At each village was some fellow 
 Avho spoke English ; two had been in Eiji, three in Port Mackay. 
 None wished to return. Lots of very nice-looking pigs here. I 
 came off at 6. 
 
 July 26th. — Landed, at 9.30, at Wdkou, and tried to get an 
 image, without success ; also a pig-killing stick, but in vain. Got 
 some adzes and a club (good). Met a man who had come in his 
 canoe all the way from Rodd's anchorage, or near it. He and 
 others gave me the names of all the villages along the coast. I wanted
 
 326 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 to establish the fact of the existence or non-existence of tribal wars, 
 and asked, " Was he afraid ? " " Did they fight ? " And they all 
 declared that they were friendly, and never fought with any one, 
 and never eat men. I am inclined to believe this. When I 
 repeated this the man said, " No, no ; no kill man ! All same 
 missionary, no kill ! Port Mackay, very bad man ; he shoot, he 
 kill black fellow. No, all same here ! " 
 
 I saw by the way a skull which Perry bought, and at the chief's 
 house a piece of a human thigh-bone, shaped off to pare out the 
 inside of a cocoa-nut, and well polished. Coming off, Messer told 
 us that while sketching a boy stole up to him and measured his 
 nose with a straw, broke the straw off, and went gently and 
 thoughtfully away. . 
 
 These two stories coming together, irresistibly call to one's 
 mind that they are speaking of us as we of them. We are 
 measuring their facial angles, writing down their language, pacing 
 their houses ; they measure our noses. We talk of their savage 
 treachery, and think how good we are ; they say, " A\'e all 
 same missionary. Bad men Port Mackay, shoot black fellow." 
 Altogether, I think these are not at all unamiable people. The 
 old chiefs tenacity of his household gods is not a bad sign ; the 
 worship of ancestors is respectable. Life is secure enough for a 
 small canoe to come half the length of the island. I doubt 
 whether our friend from Sinibiil, at the other end, used the same 
 word for everything. He certainly called MaUicoUo by a different 
 name. 
 
 I came off again at 11, richer by a club; and weighed and 
 made sail by 12. Got off Sandwich harbour (Mallicollo), by 
 2 P.M., and sailed right in. We have had no steam since Suva, 
 have run 1500 miles, and entered five and left five harbours — 
 three close and two open, without a lb. of coal, and all in 
 eighteen days, including eight and a half at anchor. But here 
 1 imagine it will end, as it is very calm. She didn't shoot 
 so high as I expected her to, by a long way. As we stood 
 up the port, a screech from the voices of many natives came off
 
 Chap. IX.] PORT SANDWICH, MALLICOLLO. 327 
 
 thd south shore. The wind followed right in, up to Observation 
 Point, and then fell light and came down the harbour ; but wc had 
 way enough to take a very good position. 
 
 I landed at 4 p.m., and walked along from Observation Point, 
 meeting single houses always empty. The places opener and 
 cleaner than at Avihrrr, as they here call it. Everything empty ; 
 but now and then we heard a voice, and as we passed house after 
 house on the hillside, the people ran up behind us. At last we 
 got hold of a man, and walked along; he had been in Queensland 
 and Fiji, and from him we got some words.* Our man soon 
 wanted us to turn back, but we, of course, would not ; and going 
 on, found ourselves suddenly in a beautiful cleared place, in 
 which was the public-house, and the gods or ancestors, as in 
 Ambrym, cut out of fern or palm. But here there was a double 
 row of drums as well, as at Vate' or Nguna ; and one was hand- 
 somely carved, with a head like a New Zealand face. There were 
 about ten of these, of which this is the chief, and all of a soft 
 wood. They wouldn't hear of selling them. They declared that 
 they had no chief at all. These people are very like those of 
 Ambrym, their clubs and bows and arrows are identical. Houses 
 are better, and have a semicircular end. This public place is 
 glorious, with its splendid trees around, the lofty tufts of draccena 
 about the house, and the beautiful crotons in masses around. 
 These people have an idea of what is beautiful unquestionably, as 
 Mr. Macdonald says of the Vatese. A number of men were 
 sitting there, but the women and children were all off to the woods 
 in a great state of fear indeed. 
 
 The fishing party went away to the east of the stream, and 
 made a great haul ; they sent me a fine mullet, a sort of bass, and 
 another, all splendid fish. The dress and ornaments of these 
 people are like those of the Ambrym men. I saw but two little 
 canoes here, ' whereas at Ambrym the canoes were large, ugly, 
 crooked, and ornamented at each end with a figure of a bird. 1 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 328 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 think, as I have thought before, that the name given by inhabitants 
 of these lands to their land is simply the name of the district at 
 most, sometimes of the town. When given by people of another 
 island it is that of the whole, to them. I found to-day, and must 
 have seen it before, that Ambr^nii is simply " the fire." It was 
 only in looking at my words that I found na-gajnbi-rr, fire, and 
 Ambrrr, the name of the island. JVa is an article, and g for 
 euphony. Coral rocks appeared on the hillside to-day. 
 
 July 27///. — I went up the Erskine river at 8 a.m. with Messer. 
 The people very timid, careless of barter, and only anxious to get 
 rid of us. They were very anxious to get rid of us, and to keep 
 us away from what seemed to be the chief's house, as it was large 
 and had a fence round it. The houses here have all a little 
 rounded apse-like end. I bought a figure of an ancestor for a 
 small knife. We were followed by a youth, who mimicked every- 
 thing we said with surprising accuracy. In all this, as in other 
 points, the accuracy of Cook is as remarkable as ever, it never 
 fails. Not a woman to be seen anywhere, all were hidden. They 
 are a small, poor, weedy people. The fishing party got another 
 fair haul in p.m. I went to the head of the bay and found a river, 
 and brought off some of the stone of the country, a fresh-water 
 deposit, as I take it. 
 
 July iZth. — Weighed at 6 A.M., and went plump on to the bank 
 of river deposit opposite Observation Point ; laid out the Stream 
 anchor on the quarter ; and at 9 she floated off easily. Got 
 outside and made sail, and saw H.M.S. Sappho. All the south side 
 of Mallicollo is a mass of islands, with deep-water channels, 
 between them, on this wise —
 
 Chap. IX.] 
 
 MALLICOLLO. 
 
 329 
 
 enclosing a great piece of Avater, which I shall call Tyndall Sound. 
 Got a letter from Lieutenant Suckling, but just too late, to say 
 that the west island in all this contains mummies in houses, but I 
 had passed it. Came quietly on, and stood off and on for the 
 night. 
 
 July 2C)th. — Stood in and steamed into South-West Bay (Malli- 
 collo), at 1 1 A !\i., finding a pretty regular bottom, and anchored 
 in ten fathoms black sand. I went to a good village on the pointy 
 and found the people very friendly — many smeared with lime, and 
 all dirty, but good-natured. They were glad to see us at their 
 houses. One had a small bone of a man's leg hanging to his 
 right ear as an ornament. I at once got some words,"' the people 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 330 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 helping one, and seeming very intelligent about it. To my satis- 
 faction I found two houses, which were seemingly public-houses, or 
 dead-houses, certainly the former. At one a man laid down and 
 
 
 
 mimicked going to sleep. Just inside a low door came the chief 
 post of the house, and round this were figures of straw covered 
 with clay in which the figure was moulded, showing the navel and 
 nipples. At knees and elbows a face was moulded, the skull was 
 there entire, with a moulded clay face. They were quite ready to 
 part with these heads for a knife, and to allow any number of 
 common skulls to be taken. I made a prize of some for Col. Fox, 
 and got him one or two very good stone and shell adzes. All about 
 were little figures, hammers for killing pigs, and other odds and 
 ends of mummery. I saw two other villages ; all are alike. I 
 suppose each village contains eighty people or so ; but we only 
 saw men, no women or children, whom they repeatedly said were 
 sisi^ which I take to mean no or not there, or something equivalent. 
 I saw a titi (woman's girdle) hanging in a house, and a fine mat in
 
 CiiAP. IX.] COOK'S SOUTH WEST BAY. 33 1 
 
 process of making, just as in Ambryni and Port Sandwich. The 
 dress of the men is also the same. The dancing-ground (as at 
 Port Sandwich) has laUies and figures round it, the lallies very 
 large, and with different faces from those at Port Sandwich — 
 flatter. We went from West Point to the hollow of the bay, and 
 found that what looks like a stream is a mouth of an estuary, 
 which opens out to a good size inside. The seining party got a 
 good haul of fish there, mostly mullet. A man at the first village 
 gave me a lively account of the effects of a hurricane, which 
 had destroyed their fruit trees, and had stopped their pigs from 
 fattening. 
 
 /idy 30^//. — Went to the Point again, with IMesser and Perr}-, 
 and got a beautiful shell adze, with difticulty. It was, of course, 
 hard to make them understand. Messer says, that in a house 
 which he entered yesterday he found an inclined place which 
 smelt badly. The natives explained that they laid bodies upon 
 it, and made a sign of shooting it through with arrows, then of 
 eating it ; but I am altogether in doubt about eating men, because 
 I saw no signs of its being done, though they often caught at their 
 wrists with their teeth, and said " kaikai, kaihai." '" These fellows 
 evidently did not know how to smoke, though they knew the name 
 of tobacco. They were glad of pieces of red cotton. 
 
 I got away at 3.30 p.im., under steam; and going three and 
 a-half knots, got along the land as far as ten miles north of the 
 bay to a spit, whence the land trends north for eight or nine 
 miles, then got under sail to a light air, and drifted along. The 
 land all about South- West Bay is a volcanic conglomerate, and 
 volcanic tufa and dust ; whereas at Port Sandwich it is apparently 
 a fresh-water deposit. 
 
 July 2,0th. — Off the north-west end of Mallicollo at daylight ; a 
 long slope to the north, like a volcanic slope. Sailed up to 
 St. Bartholomew Island, which again, together with all the 
 southern land of Espiritu Santo, is in five terraces. There is a 
 
 * To eat, in Fijian.
 
 332 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 Hat island, in three major and several minor terraces close to. 
 All is surprisingly like Vate. Islands innumerable surround the 
 shores, and give a distinctive character to the landscape. An- 
 chored in ten fathoms, hard coral bottom, with great precaution ; 
 and went to see the people, landing in a little nook down which is 
 a feeble run of fresh water. The people crowded round the boat, 
 women as well as men, and the women were not at all abashed, 
 but held leaves of the fan palm before their breasts, and had very- 
 little round their middles. 
 
 The people are all small, but the women strikingly so — tiny 
 creatures. I at once got some words '•' from a man who had been 
 with Mr. Hebblewhite, and was assured by him that the people on 
 the opposite land spoke the same language as themselves. The 
 features of many remind me of the Pentecost people whom we 
 saw, of the Bulibasi type — straightish nose, small pointed chin, 
 and cheerful expression. The men dress by winding flat sinnet 
 over their loins, until there is a great sort of mousing all over their 
 hinder parts and lower part of the belly. A maro of rather neat, 
 pretty mat, three inches wide, is brought up and tucked in ; and 
 long tails of fine sinnet, stained with red and yellow, hang to the 
 ground from the left quarter. In the head are a comb, tufts of 
 feathers, and leaves of croton (which are also stuck in the girdle) ; 
 and armlets of beads are worn. This is full dress ; but it dwindles 
 down to nothing but a string among the poorer and younger. A 
 man who had been in Fiji said there were lots of chiefs — " plenty 
 turanga;" and, I think, wished to hint that if one laid a knife 
 upon the ground it would be safe. 
 
 Going up to the village we found a man's hand hanging to a 
 bush, and gathered from the pantomime that the owner had stolen 
 cocoa-nuts, had gone to another island, been caught and clubbed, 
 and I think we made out — eaten. It was not more than two days 
 old. We walked through the straggling village, whose houses are 
 simple roofs, without walls sometimes, usually open at both ends, 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 Chap. IX.] ST. BARTHOLOMEW ISLAND. 333 
 
 with rafters of bamboo, and cocoa-nut leaf thatch. l"he principal 
 house is forty feet long, and I take it that the women's houses are 
 around. A pleasant-looking young man seemed, in Samoan 
 fashion, to excliange names with me, and took me off to show me 
 his house and his wives, putting his arm affectionately over my 
 shoulder and patting me ; but he wouldn't give me a basket for a 
 handkerchief. Only one man in the village seemed to know how 
 to smoke, or to care for it. These people seem to have no end of 
 knives, axes, and beads ; and stone or shell adzes are almost for- 
 gotten, I could not get one, they seem to care for no more. In 
 everything they give one a distinct idea of a recent Polynesian 
 immigration. Canoes are very small and poor. There are, by the 
 way, the ribs and trucks of a vessel all through the village ; she 
 must have been wrecked here two or three years ago. Came off 
 with nothing new. They have no arms but some very rough, 
 shapeless clubs and bows ; the arrows are like those of Mallicollo. 
 Spears seem to be fish spears, and I saw but one. There seems 
 to be no temple, no public-house or bure, no gods or images ; 
 nothing but an old lalli, much worn, lying in the public dancing- 
 ground, and a few panpipes, on one of which a good-looking 
 bright boy played us a sort of tune. 
 
 The change from Mallicollo to this is curious. It is remarkable 
 that just in proportion to the amount of people who have been 
 taken away as labourers, so are the natives inclined to assault 
 Europeans. AVhere white men are least known, the people are 
 most friendly. 
 
 August 1st. — Sailed across to another island opposite this. The 
 whole place is a labyrinth of low coral islands. There are creeks 
 which divide, and lagoons and endless inlets apparently, and all 
 is coral on the rise. I only got to a miserable village of freshly 
 built huts : they had been lately attacked by a luisli tribe, who 
 stole their pigs, and burnt their houses ; they all seemed sick and 
 miserable, poor people, and I came back as wise as I went ; but the 
 progress of the formation of the coral is curious, and the way in 
 which it goes on growing continually and adding to the land.
 
 334 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 A man who speaks Englisli on this side calls the place at which 
 we are at anchor Malo. By the way, the ribs and trucks of the 
 vessel were those of the "Robert Towns," whaler. 
 
 August 2?id. — Despatched mails by H.M.S. Sappho at 10.30 
 A.M., and weighed at 11. 15 ; ran down to Cape Lisburn {Espiritu 
 Santo). The land is all raised coral along here, every bit, and I 
 have strongly the notion that the outlying islands of coral, which 
 are all on the weather side, must have been formed then. First 
 the original mountains were degraded, and a talus formed in the 
 sea to windward and at the mouths of streams. The coral built 
 on this detritus, where it was at a suitable depth, and in due time 
 by elevation was carried to the surface. If fourteen to twenty 
 fathoms is a proper depth, then we have coral forming thus — 
 
 but forming chiefly at the place where a great talus was. This is 
 to be seen very clearly at a great wide low promontory off a deep 
 valley at the south-west angle looking south. It is remarkable 
 that Cape Lisburn is all coral, but its beach to the eastward is 
 made up of large boulders of half a ton or so, and smaller pebbles, 
 all of volcanic rock, which is close at hand to the north. 
 
 I anchored at Eralado (Cape Lisburn) at 4 r.M., in ten fathoms,
 
 Chap. IX.] CAPE LIS BURN, ESPIRITU SANTO. 335 
 
 good bottom of fine black sand. A French schooner, the 
 " Tanna," came from the northward and anchored to the E.N.E., 
 off a place called, I believe, BiUa. Boarded her. The wreck of the 
 " Hallie Jackson" is here, above high water, and very little 
 touched. I got ashore to the west of the wreck ; a good deal of 
 swell sets in to the bay, and makes a bad landing. AVe were met 
 by a few natives, who wanted to sell yams for tobacco, and had 
 an exaggerated idea of their value, and of themselves. I got some 
 words,'" but am doubtful of them. A noble swift stream falls into 
 the sea here with great velocity. These people were dressed in 
 the smallest maro of a dried leaf, and a string girdle. Their 
 armlets, or wrist guard for the string of the bow, were of the 
 lower whorl of a shell, instead of the usual pig's tusk, and the 
 arrows had long barbed heads of black wood; some of 
 bone, but most of black wood. They, like the people of 
 yesterday, constantly said, " Widiioul! ■nmliimd !" to buy or 
 exchange. 
 
 August yd. — Landed at the foot of a village called Malo, at 
 the extremity of the beach. Two men who had been with IVIr. 
 Hebblewhite speak English well and intelligently, and speak of 
 his good treatment of them. I got a few words from these. ''' 
 They were quite aware that differences existed along the coast ; 
 for instance, stone is here, and was among yesterday's people, suli, 
 but they knew that at a place further north it was Navatu. They 
 repeated that woman here was Pita, but said that our last night's 
 people called her Vavi7ia."' Went up to the village, about 500 
 feet above the sea, and steep. The rocks all trachyte and other 
 volcanic stones, also lumps of conglomerate uniting pieces of 
 volcanic stones. The rocks jutting into the bay are coral, but 
 upon their surface, and apparently bedded in them, are pieces of 
 volcanic pebbles, very distinctly showing; all of which is a 
 regular puzzle to any one at all. Came off and weighed at 10.30. 
 The houses are very wretched, the posts of fern stem ; the front 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 2^6 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 has a screen {leaiutd) against the sun ; few mats, every one dirty. 
 Steamed to the rocks marked on the chart as off Tasmatta, and 
 •estabUshed that they do not exist ; then in towards Warsi^ which 
 I did not find. All the coast is very steep and bold, as the north 
 •coast of Viti Levu (Fiji), about Viti Levu Bay, but more wooded ; 
 rills of water and streams run down with force through narrow 
 ravines. The mountains, two miles back, are certainly 4000 feet 
 the near ones 1500 feet. Saw no natives along the beach till 
 after dark, and then several fires on the beach and hill. Made 
 sail at 8.30 P.isr. to an easterly air. I got this morning two very 
 poor little adzes, pebbles from the beach ground down, no 
 more. 
 
 August j\th. — Drifted to the north in the night; the breeze 
 came on at 8 from the north-east, so I tacked at 8.30, and stood 
 in to the land, beating about all day. 
 
 August ^tJi. — Made so little way that I got steam in the morning 
 and steamed along the land to the anchorage off the river Jordan 
 (St. Philip and St. James' Bay, Espiritu Santo), the said river of 
 Quiros. The extremity of Cape Cumberland, and of other capes 
 on the east side, are coral raised, but the bays have generally 
 volcanic stone beaches. A great landslip, about four miles from 
 Cape Cumberland, shows a white stone (? limestone) 1500 feet to 
 1800 feet above the sea, and a stream at the foot is strewn with 
 white stones. The plantations look carefiilly made, having good 
 reed fences, and being square and very clean. Numbers of taro 
 plantations, very well kept, show along, and the ground shows 
 signs of repeated clearing. Tried along the beach and about 
 three cables off for an anchorage, but got no less than thirty-five 
 fathoms till exactly on Mr. Tilly's bearing, when I got nine fatlioms, 
 and shot over it into twenty- seven. Let go the stream anchor in 
 about twenty-four fathoms, and veered out seventy-five fathoms. 
 No end of duck got up ; some natives are down on the beach for 
 fishing, and are very friendly. Some came to meet the boats, and 
 are fine-looking men compared with tlic men of MallicoUo, and 
 reminded me of Fijians. There seem to be many streams running
 
 Chap. IX.] RIVER JORDAN, ESPIRITU SANTO. 337 
 
 into the sea, and watering all this delta, which must be a mass of 
 lagoons inside, I should think. Some went shooting at once, and 
 got some ducks. I got some words from an intelligent fellow 
 who came on board afterwards. Exactly as I had anticipated, the 
 Cape Quiros horn of the bay is a mass of coral, and the Cape 
 Cumberland horn is volcanic, or at least old. I saw two nose 
 ornaments of quartz, about an inch and a-half or two inches long 
 through the septum. The men's dress is almost elegant. Round 
 the waist is a strong piece of bark half an inch wide, and concen- 
 trically wound, and with a string over all to keep it together. 
 Below this come a number of fine strings looped one over another 
 in front, and gathered behind into a sort of wolding. A maro of 
 fine mat comes up in front and covers all. Tortoise-shell ear- 
 rings in the ears, and often a piece of wood or quartz in the 
 septum. The man who came on board gave me the name of ten 
 or twelve chiefs, and declared that the people here did not fight. 
 It has been said that the people on either side of the river (Jordan) 
 fight constantly, but the first thing I saw was three men from the 
 east side glistening with wet. They had swum across to the west 
 side. Some Fijian words seem to have got in here somehow, but 
 how easy it is to be mistaken in any or all of these points. I am 
 very sure of some of my words, but doubtful of a few. These 
 people have heaps of the elegant spears made of bone, with four 
 prongs, also with single bones and single pieces of fern. 
 
 August 6th. — Went at 6.30 with Messer to look after ducks ; 
 we were too late, the others had completely cleared the river, so 
 we went on to the high trees and shot pigeons — great handsome 
 fellows which came down plump. About 10.30 we found our way 
 to the beach, among a lot of natives, very friendly and quiet. 
 We passed some newly-cleared ground for plantations, so well 
 cleared and fenced. Several canoes with natives came on board, 
 and sold spears, &c. The only things in demand are knives and 
 hatchets. I went at 3 p.m. to the east side of the bay, where is 
 another opening of the river, making four in all, spreading over 
 this wide plain. Quiros might have called it Mesopotamia as 
 
 z
 
 338 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 well. Did I say yesterday that I went a quarter of a mile or less 
 up from the mouth in my gig, and then found a regular rapid 
 running over the pebbles, the difference of level above and below 
 being quite a foot ; and this is the principal arm, the whole 
 country showing that the newer land is about this mouth, and 
 chiefly west of it. The bed of the stream has pebbles of every 
 variety of volcanic origin. The east side, where I landed, runs 
 out close to the coral rocks. I went up a cliff of coral 400 feet, 
 and got on to a table land, all coral, on which I walked for a 
 mile. On this side are many former hat islands and " castles," like 
 that on Mare'. There can be no mistaking the formation, and it 
 seems to be, as I supposed, that all the eastern coast is of this 
 formation. I got the names Azarao for the eastern promontory, 
 and Tabasigo for the western, also Naimtii for the hills to the 
 south ; but they all persist in calling the shore here Santo. My 
 guide called the river Yona^ which looks strangely like Jordan. 
 We had a sad accident : a stoker was unfortunately drowned this 
 afternoon in trying to swim across the river while away with a 
 seining party. Three started, and one turned back. The mid- 
 shipman called to this man not to venture, but he went on, and 
 was sucked down by the eddy. The women here, by the way, 
 knock out two front teeth. Hastings found a boy who had been 
 with Mr. Hebblewhite, and spoke Englisli very fairly, and said 
 that the best anchorage is in the south-west corner of the bay, and^ 
 that five men have gone lately to Queensland from a village there. 
 He says that the Azarao people are all fighting. I stepped a 
 public-house by the way, which they call hamal, 75 feet long and 
 12 feet wide on the ground, about 12 feet high. All of bamboo ; 
 nothing in it but two little earthenware pots and some rough 
 trenchers. A kindly people, but not a very interesting place. 
 The land is good, and probably there will some day be a large 
 plantation here. 
 
 August 1th. — Got away under steam at 1 1 a.m., and stood out 
 to the end of Cape Quiros and its oft'-lying island to the east. 
 The tables and the four or five terraces which form them are most
 
 Chap. IX.] 
 
 CORAL FORMATION. 
 
 ^-,9 
 
 OJ^ 
 
 EV_ 
 
 distinct. I put the table at A to be 1200 feet high. It is not 
 over that, or under 1000 feet. In like manner the two tables, 
 Avhich in a former age were hat islands, are from Soo to 1000 feet. 
 They look into the bay. I think that the occurrence of these 
 may very well be explained in this way. On the eastern shores 
 of the land long banks may be formed by rocks or debris either 
 under water or above, and then submerged. The coral polyp 
 would build extensively on these, and great tables would result. 
 
 On the western shore the mountains are steep and bare, and the 
 insect would only build a narrow ledge, when the upheaval would
 
 340 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 bring the structure within the destructive power of the waves, and 
 effectually scale off the shell of coral rock, except at points where 
 the insect would have gotten a greater hold and made a wider 
 ledge, which would then resist the power of the wave. This 
 
 S^PhiliJi BiS^ James Bay
 
 Chap. IX.] VANIKORO. 34 1 
 
 exactly agrees with the facts as I have seen them. I have seen 
 coral shores wherever dots appear here, and the highest mountains 
 are always dead to leeward. 
 
 August Wi. — Off Santa Maria in the morning, and tacked at 8, 
 close to Vanua Lava : again at 12, under Santa Maria, and stood 
 right through up to the bay south of Port Patteson. Standing to 
 and fro all night. 
 
 August ()tJi. — Landed at 7.30 a.m. at Mota, and found no one. 
 I got some rocks from the cliff side at Mota, where pieces of 
 volcanic stone are bedded in the coral, which has grown all around 
 them. This is a compact coral and a very compact volcanic 
 stone. Got on board by 9 a.m., and filled. Mota Lava seems to 
 be the same as Ara-a. The low level around Vanua Lava is 
 coral, and like that round Mota is about sixty or eighty feet above 
 the sea, rising to 150 feet further back. 
 
 August lot/i. — Saw Vanikoro (Santa Cruz group) at daylight,, 
 about fifteen miles off, and ran down. Got into Tevai Bay quite 
 neatly at 9.15, in twenty-one fathoms, as near the middle of Ocili 
 anchorage as possible. We passed a patch of nine fathoms, and 
 got a cast of twelve fathoms in the passage, but saw no signs of 
 the two-fathom place whatever. Many pieces of coral stand up on 
 the reef. It seems to me quite likely that this may be the first 
 sign of an upheaval succeeding the depression. The coral of 
 such pieces is old and worn, and, moreover, the mangrove 
 surrounds the shore ; and I don't see how this could be the case 
 were the land generally falling. However, what looks very like 
 continued falling is that the most part of the flats seem covered 
 with volcanic pebbles of large size, with a coating of mud. There 
 can be no question, however, that the lumps above water are 
 coral. 
 
 I took Perry in the galley in p.m., and went round Direction 
 Island, finding a landing as I expected. The people all escaped 
 to the main across the joining reef, poor creatures, laden with 
 household goods apparently. I landed after calling " Omai' 
 repeatedly, ^and looked into several of the six or eight houses.
 
 342 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 One, which was oblong, and had side walls four feet high, was 
 evidently a public-house. The others were perhaps not quite so 
 liigh, and had a semicircular end, indifferently pointed, but gene- 
 rally inshore, the door being beachwards. This end was generally 
 
 fhe 
 
 o 
 
 cut off by a wooden sill, four or six inches high. In the centre of 
 the apse were eight to twelve black stones, some little columns of 
 basalt, some flat pieces, and some large round pebbles. Some 
 big whorls lay as ornaments. On the left, as one faced this little 
 
 assemblage, was always a little cane bench. I couldn't think 
 what this meant, till in one hut I found a child's skull upon the 
 stool, well smeared with yellow earth. Besides a few old bags and 
 mats, a bow, and the hafts of adzes, there was absolutely nothing 
 in the village. Everything had been removed. At quite one end, 
 and at the last of all the houses, was a roof without walls, but with 
 side posts, and under it a quantity of skulls around some upright 
 stones, but no bones of any sort, and no lower jaws. I conclude 
 from all this that this is again a worship of ancestors, household
 
 Chap. IX.] VANIKORO. 343 
 
 arid tribal, and that each house has its own Penates. There are 
 no marks of any sort upon the stones. A net, by the way, and a 
 few girdles, like those of the MallicoUans, were left in the huts. 
 This island is a mass of boulders of basalt overgrown by trees. 
 Two sorts of oysters were growing on the beach, one like a 
 mangrove oyster, and on the coral, the other a sort of gipsy-cap 
 thing. I saw no other village, and came back to the ship, after 
 landing at a bay and stream opposite the ship. 
 
 August iif/i. — AVeighed at 7.30 a.m., and sounded on no less 
 than three patches which were not on the chart. I took a cutter 
 and whaler away at 9, and ran inside the reef to a village called 
 Mumbola in the chart, and by the people now, and then on to 
 Payon and Nenna, and so out to the ship by 5.30 p.m. The sun 
 burning hot. The sea was very high when we started, and we 
 shipped quantities of water, baling for dear life as we went, till 
 inside the reef. The chart seems correct, but there are many 
 patches unmarked in the cliart, and it would be very unsafe to 
 bring a ship in, besides being quite needless. As we got near 
 Mumbola we saw a canoe, and she beckoned us onward, so both 
 boats went in. A man came out to the cutter, so I got hold of 
 him, and gave him a sulu, and got him into the boat. He slapped 
 his breast, opened his mouth, v/hich was full of betel nut (quite 
 crammed), and called himself Aliki, chief. The present of a sulu 
 was opportune. Pie was delighted, and waved it to his fellows on 
 shore, who were quite ready now to come and talk. His teeth 
 Avere black with chewing betel, and he kept on taking more, 
 tearing the nut, snatching the leaves and lime, and devouring in 
 haste like a beast of prey. These fellows had bows of six feet, 
 and arrows of four, well ornamented. ]\Iy friend, who slapped 
 himself, and called me Aliki, again took me by the hand, and led 
 me to the public-house, thirty feet by twenty, with side walls and 
 posts carved with fish, of which I brought away a couple. We 
 then began to bargain. I got a paddle and some very pretty neat 
 mats. Perry got some words, and I a few,'"' but it was not easy, as 
 
 * See Appendix.
 
 344 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 about twenty-five fellows were round us, and all talked together 
 bargaining, &c. An unhappy fellow covered with scales of a sort 
 of ringworm was the most intelligent Some of these people were 
 much lighter than others, and there came down one light-coloured 
 man with cropped hair, famously got up with ear-rings, bracelets 
 of beads, armlets, leglets. A most picturesque figure, but as wild 
 as a hawk. He hovered outside the circle first, then came near. 
 ] held out my hand ; he thought I wanted his girdle, and it was 
 long before I could make him understand that shaking hands 
 meant a friendly act. I offered him a small hatchet for his ear- 
 rings, which he gave me : a bunch of tortoiseshell rings and a 
 ring of shell in each. The dress is a bark girdle, with four or five 
 turns of a black rattan on it. A piece of tapa, thick and beaten 
 out of the Vail, makes the maro. It was altogether a friendly 
 visit, and both sides were pleased. They were ready to part with 
 what they had, and were not suspicious in handing it over. We 
 saw no sign of a woman, save the fine mats, which I suppose they 
 had made. Some ship's canvas was in one hut, unused and there- 
 fore spare ; and a sheet of copper, thick, heavy, red copper, waS' 
 used as a door sill to a hut. I am sorry I did not bring it away. 
 Tt was too thick for sheathing, and had moreover never been used. 
 Another sheet, but sheathing, and yellow metal, and torn from a 
 vessel's side, was used in like manner at another house. I only 
 went into one house or two, and in these were a stone or two as 
 rudimentary Penates — round stones, and in one a skull was laid 
 carefully on a board over it. We parted " with mutual expres- 
 sions of good-will," as they would say, but which one can't say 
 here, as the form, where there is any form at all, is at most, *' You 
 slay ! Igo!'^^ I imagine they said something of this sort. We 
 went on, eating our dinner, and ran down to Payon, near where 
 the "Sandfly" was insulted by a skull being laid on a piece of 
 tapa on a point. There is but one house, and that a poor one. 
 There was a skull — perhaps the very one — on a board over the 
 
 * The only Fijian form for " Good-bye."
 
 Chap. IX.] SANTA CRUZ, 345 
 
 place where the household god is kept, the black stone. The 
 people of this village, probably sixteen or twenty, including 
 women and children, had all vanished (as they did to-day) up the 
 stream in a canoe. After looking about, and leaving a sulu on a 
 stick, we went on, seeing no hut, or canoe, or sign of inhabitant, 
 till past the extreme west point, where were two houses and a hut 
 for dead men's skulls, abandoned, as I suppose, six or eight 
 months ago. And this is all. The whole of Vanikoro at a 
 greater rate than this cannot have more than six hundred people 
 on it of any sort. Where are they ? I imagine excess in betel 
 nut, and excess in other ways, and child murder, and disease, to 
 have killed them all. The whole coast without exception is sur- 
 rounded by mangroves and " tiri." None of it looks fit for man 
 at all ; the few sandy beaches are the least uninviting. In a very 
 few more years the last man will vanish. And then ? The island 
 is, I imagine, fit for very little. Cocoa and coffee may grow, but 
 how little ! And what a prospect as climate ! 
 
 Came away at about 4.15 p.m., and stood under sail in nice 
 smooth water right over the reef, carrying three feet, and getting 
 to the ship at about 5.15, tremendously burnt by the sun. Ran 
 away towards Santa Cruz under topsails, four and five knots. 
 
 \This is the last entry in the Journal, hut the following letter 
 continues the narrative^ 
 
 Off Santa Cruz, Thursday, August \2th, 1875. 
 
 I am going on shore* to the spot where the Sandfly was last 
 year, to see if I can't make friends with the unfortunates, who 
 
 • On the morning of the 1 2th the Teaii was off Carlisle Bay (Santa Cruz), 
 and the Commodore sent in two boats to take soundings. It was found to be 
 impossible to take the ship in, and she then proceeded to Byron Bay, which 
 she entered. As soon as the ship was at anchor it was found that there was 
 scarcely room for her to swing in safety, and she immediately steamed out
 
 34^ COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. [Chap. IX. 
 
 seem most friendly and anxious to be civil, by coming out to us 
 in. canoes, and looking as if they wished to please. 
 
 Tuesday, August I'jf/i. — But I was disappointed. I take it 
 they are an untractable people, without much respect for 
 authority or for each other. I wrote the above on Thursday, 
 thinking that in the very remote possibility of anything occurring 
 you should have my last word. I went on shore with two boats, 
 but as I got near the shore I saw a number of canoes hastening to 
 the place at which I was going to land, so made signal for a third 
 to follow. As we drew in to the shore canoes came about us, 
 •eager, vociferous, and friendly, and with a rather villanous look. 
 They are big compared to some other islanders about here, are 
 not at all dark, some being very light, and with very light hair ; 
 but betel-nut chewing is universal. All mouths are full of a 
 chocolate and black masticated mass, and teeth are as black as 
 jet, with great lumps of the lime with which they chew the betel 
 adhering as "tartar" to their teeth. After touching the beach,"- I 
 remained for some" minutes in the boat, so as not to alarm the 
 people by too sudden moves or gestures, ^and gave away some 
 pieces of calico, bargaining at the same time a knife or two for 
 some pretty matting. Gradually they seemed to be less timid, 
 and one man came up with a present of a litde yam, and I gave 
 him some calico, with which he seemed pleased.f They then 
 began to beckon us individually up to their village close to, and 
 
 again, returning off Carlisle Bay, when the Commodore went in with the 
 boats at about 2.0 p.m. 
 
 * The boats were at first nearing tlie shore at a place rather more to the 
 right than where they eventually touched, but a native, waving a green bough, 
 motioned to them to come furllier along the beach, and then with his bough 
 pointed to a spot for the boats to land, and which was immediately below the 
 stone wall presently mentioned. 
 
 + The Commodore offered a man a piece of calico for something. The man 
 made signs that he wanted three times as much calico, upon which the Com- 
 modore gave him all he asked for, at the same time declining to take what the 
 man had, saying to some one near, " You see he understands my way of 
 dealing; he sees I am a chief."
 
 Chap. IX.] THE ATTACK. 347 
 
 we went up with all precaution, keeping our eyes about us, and 
 
 the third boat's crew remaining on the beach. It came on to rain 
 
 heavily, and at their invitation we went into the houses nearest 
 
 the beach,"' and under cover of a half-finished house. But after 
 
 a time (for the rain was heavy, and for half an hour) I began to 
 
 notice that they looked round, and withdrew themselves from 
 
 every roof where we were, and were inclined to separate from us. 
 
 Meantime the rain cleared up, and a man was very eager that I 
 
 should accompany him along the beach to, as I suppose, the next 
 
 village. The others remained by the boats, and I called eight or 
 
 ten round me, and followed the man. Plowever, after three 
 
 hundred yards or more of beach f I saw the village a long way off, 
 
 and said, " Oh ! this isn't quite prudent ; I must set an example 
 
 of sticking to the orders which I have given. We'll visit the 
 
 other village by boat ;" and I tried to explain to my native friend 
 
 that I would do so, and all of us turned back. As I got near the 
 
 boats I said, " Order every one into the boats ;" and seeing every 
 
 one near, turned to see if any were behind me. 1 saw Harrison 
 
 up a little passage between a stone wall and the side of a hut, and 
 
 but just above the white coral sand beach, and went up to him to 
 
 see what he was about and to be with him. He was bargaining 
 
 for some arrows with a tall man, who held his bow in his left 
 
 hand, and was twiddling his arrows in a rather hectoring way, as 
 
 I thought. Casting my eye to the left I saw a man with a 
 
 gleaming pair of black eyes fitting an arrow to a string, and in an 
 
 instant, just as I was thinking it must be a sham menace, and 
 
 stared him in tlie face, thud came the arrow into my left side. I felt 
 
 astounded. I shouted, "To the boats!" pulled the arrow out, 
 
 and threw it away (for which I am sorry), and leapt down the 
 
 beach, hearing a flight of arrows pass. xVt my first sight of them 
 
 * While in the house, the Commodore got some stones, and, arranging 
 them on the ground, he tried to get some numbers from tlie natives ; only 
 one entry appears in his note-book — liiiiii , five. 
 
 *h A number of natives accompanied them, some following, some in the 
 3)ush on the right.
 
 348 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. '[Chap. IX, 
 
 all were getting in and shoving off, and I leapt into the whaler ; 
 then feeling she was not clear of the ground, jumped out, and 
 helped to push her out into deep Avater, and while doing so 
 another arrow hit my head a good sharp rap, leaving an inch and 
 a half of its bone head sticking in my hat."'-' I ordered the armed 
 men to fire, and instantly they fired the arrow flights ceased. I 
 looked round, and the boats were clear of the beach. Perry 
 immediately chewed and sucked my wound, and on my coxswain 
 and cook saying they were hit, sucked their wounds too, which 
 were quite slight. I asked, " Are all in the boats ?" and was- 
 answered by Jones, the coxswain of the first cutter, " All in, sir 1 
 and I'm wounded." For a moment there was a doubt about 
 Harrison, and I was just turning back when I saw his white coat 
 myself in the otlier cutter, and ordered the boats to pull to the 
 ship. Some of the men saw a native, who had wounded this 
 Jones in the leg, drop wounded himself from a tree whose branches 
 reached over the beach on to the sand. My only object in firing 
 was to stop their arrows and to drive them off, and I Avent back 
 to the ship, and hoisted the boats up, intending to do nothing to 
 them. 
 
 Messer came at once, and dressed my wound, burning it well 
 out with caustic, and putting on a poultice. The arrow seemed 
 to have struck the rib,+ and having been pulled out at once, no 
 poison (supposing there to have been poison on them) could have 
 become dissolved in the time. 
 
 Hastings then came, and a tete rcposce I decided that it would 
 be better to mark the insult in some way, and sent him in to burn 
 the eight or nine huts of the village, taking care to run no risk of 
 hurting either our own people or the wretched islanders. $ All 
 
 * Six in all were wounded : the Commodore, liis coxswain, and his cook (in 
 the whaler), the coxswain of one of the cutters, and two young seamen named 
 Kayner and Smale, one in each cutter — these two last fatally. 
 
 f This was afterwards found not to have been the case. The arrow pene- 
 trated ahout an inch, but in a slanting direction, and the wound not more than 
 half an inch deep. 
 
 + The Commodore desired a blank volley to be fired before any one landed.
 
 Chap. IX.] LAST LETTER. 349 
 
 this was done. The way of it was judicial enough to satisfy me, 
 though it didn't satisfy the officers at all, or the men either. When 
 Hastings came back I consulted what to do, and came to the 
 determination to go back to Mota, and to leave orders for the 
 Nymphe, and then to go south either to Brisbane or Sydney, as it 
 would be a fortnight at least before I could get about enough to 
 follow up the examination which I was making of the islands,, 
 supposing all was well — and supposing that the arrows were 
 poisoned, and that tetanus appeared, then the very best climate 
 would be wanted to give us all the least hope of recovery. The 
 arrows did not look to be poisoned, and if they were, were 
 probably too short a time in the wounds to let the poison take 
 effect ; but it was possible, and should be guarded against So I 
 turned and steamed to Mota,* and thence under sail to where I 
 am now, off the north end of New Caledonia, so cool and fresh, 
 
 and all doing well To-day is Tuesday, just five 
 
 days ; it seems but a day. In five days more we shall be able to 
 say that all danger of poisoning is over ; but from the first moment 
 I have kept the possibility steadily before me, so as to be pre- 
 pared ; it is very good to be brought to look upon a near death 
 
 as more than usually probable The weather is 
 
 lovely, and entirely favourable to the little wounds, which are 
 absurdly small. My only trouble is a pain in the small of my 
 back, which is a little against my sleeping. I am exceedingly 
 
 well I have asked Perry to put out a statement 
 
 for the papers, so that we may have no outrageously foolish 
 stories. I can only imagine the motive to have been plunder, or 
 a sort of running-a-muck. I don't feel 
 
 \Hcrc the luritlng was interrupted, and was not again resumed. 
 The Commodore showed the first signs of illness a few hours after 
 this letter was written^ 
 
 to frighten away the natives, and to ensure no life being taken. He repeated 
 this order three times. 
 
 * Against a strong head wind.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Probable Population of the New Hebrides, Banks, and 
 
 Santa Cruz Islands. 
 
 Aneiteum . 
 
 Tanna . 
 
 Erromango 
 
 Vate . 
 
 Nguna, &c. 
 
 Api 
 
 Ambrym . 
 
 Mallicollo 
 
 Espiritu Santo . 
 
 Aurora . 
 
 Pentecost . 
 
 Santa Maria or Gana 
 
 Vanua Lava 
 
 Mota . 
 
 Small islands 
 
 Santa Cruz . 
 
 Torres 
 
 Outlyers 
 
 1,500 
 
 500 
 3,000 
 3,000 
 
 500 
 
 500 
 
 1,500 
 
 2,000 
 
 750 
 3,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 1,500 
 
 1,000 
 
 Say 75,000 at the outside. 
 
 68,250 
 
 May 2, 1875.
 
 352 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 No. I. Pentecost Island. 
 
 The words got from Bullbasi and Tevenok, on board H.M.S. 
 Pearl, May 2nd, 1875 • — 
 
 English. 
 One 
 Two 
 Three 
 Four 
 Five 
 Six 
 Seven 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 
 Eleven 
 Twelve 
 
 Nose 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Foot 
 
 Hand 
 
 Ear 
 
 Eye 
 
 Hair 
 
 Head 
 
 Neck 
 
 Arm 
 
 Elbow 
 
 Back 
 
 Sun 
 
 Pentecost. 
 Bale 
 Kai-ri 
 Kai-til 
 Kai-vas 
 Kai-lim 
 Lapale 
 La-viri 
 Lap-til 
 La vas 
 Bangui 
 
 And then to begin again. 
 
 Sangul-m-bale 
 
 Sangul-m-kairi 
 
 Nosungu 
 
 Bongo 
 
 Wakungu 
 
 Limanga (Bunch of fives) 
 
 Dalinganga {Mallicollo 
 
 Talingang) 
 Matauga 
 Vilunga 
 Bosungu 
 Vatalongo 
 Limanga Nanarong 
 Wala 
 Dogungu 
 Matacal
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 5'» 
 
 NGLISH . 
 
 Pentecost. 
 
 Moon 
 
 Viren matacal 
 
 Sea 
 
 Ta 
 
 Freshwater 
 
 Silen 
 
 Rain 
 
 Wakis 
 
 Ship 
 
 Anga 
 
 ji points to the mizen topsail, 
 
 and says cappas. 
 
 Canoe ? (to paddle ?) 
 
 Wu-o-a 
 
 Drink 
 
 Tamin 
 
 Turtle 
 
 Sukevi 
 
 Fish 
 
 Ik 
 
 Goat 
 
 Kavi? 
 
 Cock 
 
 Mate-ete 
 
 Man 
 
 Ina 
 
 Woman 
 
 Bosu-bosu 
 
 Goose (Duck ?} 
 
 Ngong 
 
 Dog 
 
 Kuli 
 
 Cat 
 
 Go-op 
 
 Pig 
 
 Kavi sivi 
 
 Parrot 
 
 Sivi 
 
 Lizard 
 
 Mekumbee, Gampsil, Ba- 
 
 
 ratngal 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 Aka, Bawi 
 
 Bird 
 
 Lala? 
 
 Green parrot 
 
 Deng 
 
 Swallow 
 
 Kappa kappa 
 
 Butterfly 
 
 Bcbe 
 
 Knife (or iron) 
 
 Kamuki Talamet 
 
 Rope 
 
 Kawa boro-ora 
 
 Stick (or cane) 
 
 Kaula 
 
 Earth (soil) 
 
 Tan 
 
 Death 
 
 IVlat 
 
 Sleep 
 
 Tamesur 
 
 Wind 
 
 Lang 
 
 Yes 
 
 Ue 
 
 A A
 
 354 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENO UGH. 
 
 English. 
 No 
 Come here 
 
 Go 
 
 Wings (or fly) 
 
 Stone 
 
 Bamboo 
 
 Panpipe 
 
 Bow 
 
 Arrow 
 
 Club 
 
 Banana 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 Comb 
 
 Breadfruit 
 
 Chief 
 
 Pentecost. 
 Nambari 
 
 Nambama ; Nguna, Bauo- 
 mai; F«/^, Bavonomai; 
 MaUicollo, Buenna 
 
 Goran 
 
 Weilan woan 
 
 Vas 
 
 Buvas 
 
 Bu 
 
 Balagis 
 
 Lian 
 
 Rubua 
 
 Insi 
 
 Ni 
 
 Vi-i 
 
 Pata 
 
 Turanga 
 
 Referrijig to F. Craufiird's " Indian Archipelago^'' and a Malay 
 vocabulary in " SearcJifor La Fcroiisc," a resemblance was traced 
 between a good many of t/iesc luords and the Malay for tJie same 
 
 thing. 
 
 No. II. MOTA. 
 
 
 May 
 
 Gth, 
 
 1875- 
 
 Enoijsh. 
 
 
 
 MoTA. 
 
 One 
 
 
 
 Tuale 
 
 Two 
 
 
 
 Ne rua 
 
 Three 
 
 
 
 Ni tul 
 
 Four 
 
 
 
 Ni va 
 
 Five 
 
 
 
 Tavi Lima 
 
 Six 
 
 
 
 Lavea tia 
 
 Seven 
 
 
 
 Lavea rua
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 355 
 
 English. 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 Eleven 
 Twenty 
 Rain 
 
 Breadfmit 
 Cocoanut 
 House 
 Earth 
 Man 
 Woman 
 Child or boy 
 Yam 
 Taro 
 Stick 
 Ship 
 Swim 
 Bird 
 Hand 
 Head 
 Hair 
 Foot 
 Leg 
 Banana 
 Come here 
 Go away 
 Walk 
 
 MOTA. 
 
 Lavea till 
 Lavea vat 
 Sangavul 
 Mine tuale, &c. 
 Sangavul rua 
 Oenna 
 Patan 
 Omatih 
 O'hiena 
 Tanu 
 O'tannum 
 O'tavine 
 O'Rereng uera 
 O'nom 
 O'queta 
 O'quaitigo 
 O'aka 
 Raru 
 Manu 
 Panilen 
 Watui 
 Aulin 
 Orangin 
 Bani 
 Vetal 
 Mulema 
 Mulea 
 Mule 
 
 A A 2-
 
 356 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 No. III. Ambry M. 
 
 
 July 2Sth, 
 
 1875- 
 
 English. 
 
 
 Amdrym. 
 
 One 
 
 
 U 
 
 Two 
 
 
 Ru 
 
 Three 
 
 
 Siil 
 
 Four 
 
 
 Vir 
 
 Five 
 
 
 Lim 
 
 Six 
 
 
 Ise 
 
 Seven 
 
 
 Le-u-ni 
 
 Eight 
 
 
 Li-siil 
 
 Nine 
 
 
 Lia-fer 
 
 Ten 
 
 
 Sangavul 
 
 Good {or good fellow) 
 
 Mamaisi nm 
 
 Chief 
 
 
 Yafu 
 
 Sea 
 
 
 Teh 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 
 Ul 
 
 Yam 
 
 
 Rem 
 
 Banana 
 
 
 Wivi 
 
 Water 
 
 / 
 
 Weh 
 
 vSun 
 
 
 Yal 
 
 Moon 
 
 
 Awati 
 
 Star 
 
 
 Moho 
 
 Idol 
 
 
 Parang 
 
 House 
 
 
 Yim 
 
 Chief's house 
 
 
 Yim kon 
 
 Town 
 
 
 Robul 
 
 Man 
 
 
 Wantin 
 
 Woman 
 
 
 One'en 
 
 Breadfruit 
 
 
 Beta 
 
 Foreigner 
 
 
 Win 
 
 Pig 
 
 
 Parpar 
 
 Bird 
 
 
 Pahul
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 157 
 
 English. 
 Fish 
 Dog 
 Cat 
 
 Wall end (of hut) 
 Canoe 
 Club 
 
 Stiff girdle 
 Plaited grass ditto 
 Arrow 
 
 Woman's girdle 
 Eye 
 Death 
 Nose 
 jMouth 
 Teeth 
 Salutation 
 Come here 
 Go 
 Fire 
 Wind 
 
 Tahitian chestnut 
 Coral 
 
 Drum (lalli) 
 Tongue 
 Hand 
 Finger 
 Arm 
 Sky 
 
 Shell adze 
 Earth 
 
 Volcanic stone 
 Boy 
 Ear 
 Foot 
 Toe 
 
 Ambrym. 
 Ika 
 Kuli 
 Wuss 
 Warn war 
 Bulbul 
 Borr 
 Wawa 
 Tel 
 
 Pasewu 
 Tiwiin 
 Metan 
 Marbo 
 Guhun 
 Bougan 
 Lowun 
 Fangarenbe 
 Omea 
 Oianna 
 (?) Marum 
 Leng 
 Mar 
 Vuerbea 
 Ding-a-ting 
 Meen 
 Weran 
 
 Pagahun weran 
 Tantan weran 
 Tongo-tong 
 Tel a ten 
 Tan 
 Vuerten 
 Tissi malele 
 Tel i nak on 
 Lieh 
 Pagahun lieh
 
 358 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 English. 
 Thigh 
 
 Pentecost Island 
 Name of Ambrym 
 Mallicollo 
 
 Ambrym. 
 Tantan i lieh 
 Taha 
 
 Lanwolowol 
 Tilteh 
 
 Villages from Dip Point eastward — Wakon, Pelwo-wo, Fantin, 
 Lowea, Lalibula, Hanleh, Lelima, Henegal, Falukewiwi, Lantayu, 
 Melbong, Adeli, Limbul. 
 
 No. IV. Sandwich Harbour, Mallicollo. 
 
 
 July 26th, 
 
 1875- 
 
 English. 
 
 
 Sandwich Harbour. 
 
 One 
 
 
 Sikai 
 
 Two 
 
 
 Eyu (or eru) 
 
 Three 
 
 
 Erei 
 
 Four 
 
 
 Evads 
 
 Five 
 
 
 Erim 
 
 Six 
 
 
 Tsukai 
 
 Seven 
 
 
 Wuii 
 
 Eight 
 
 
 AVurei 
 
 Nine 
 
 
 Wubatz 
 
 Ten 
 
 
 Singyab 
 
 Salutation 
 
 
 Nanging 
 
 Come here 
 
 
 Givannimai 
 
 Go away 
 
 
 Givan 
 
 Very good 
 
 
 Aingambi navoi 
 
 House 
 
 
 Na yim 
 
 Knife 
 
 
 Yi san 
 
 Quiver 
 
 
 Pasewu 
 
 Bow 
 
 
 Na russ 
 
 Club 
 Arrow 
 
 
 Na buts 
 Na wu 
 
 Eye 
 
 
 Merau
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 359 
 
 English. 
 
 Sandwich Harhour. 
 
 Nose 
 
 Nusungu 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Bangon 
 
 Teeth 
 
 Libung 
 
 Tongue 
 
 Tvlemeng 
 
 Pig 
 
 Barramban 
 
 Earth 
 
 Narran 
 
 Sea 
 
 N arras 
 
 Water 
 
 Nuwai 
 
 Breadfruit 
 
 Narrab 
 
 Sky 
 
 Namon 
 
 Mat girdle (woman's ?) 
 
 Waib 
 
 Chief 
 
 Nasuni 
 
 Not good 
 
 Eravats 
 
 Idol 
 
 Ramats 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 Mam 
 
 Fire 
 
 Nagambrrr 
 
 Stone 
 
 Na var 
 
 House (public) 
 
 Hamarr 
 
 Bird 
 
 Wigambo gambo 
 
 Dog 
 
 Lipaeh 
 
 Cat 
 
 Buss 
 
 Hair 
 
 Umbarr 
 
 Adze 
 
 Real 
 
 Yam 
 
 Maram 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Nuanka 
 
 Wind 
 
 Neang 
 
 Yam 
 
 Naram 
 
 Taro 
 
 Brruang 
 
 Rain 
 
 Naiis 
 
 Sort of yam 
 
 Patsindrian 
 
 Ear 
 
 Talingang 
 
 Large taro 
 
 Seal 
 
 Death 
 
 Na mats
 
 6o 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 No, V. Cook's South-West Bay, Mallicollo. 
 July 29///, 1875. 
 
 English. 
 
 S.W. Bay, Mallicollo, 
 
 One 
 
 Ise 
 
 Two 
 
 Eru 
 
 Three 
 
 Etui 
 
 Four 
 
 Ives 
 
 Five 
 
 IHm 
 
 Six 
 
 Sause 
 
 Seven 
 
 Sauru 
 
 Eight 
 
 TsautUl 
 
 Nine 
 
 Tsauwei 
 
 Ten 
 
 Langabiil 
 
 Eow 
 
 Narrab 
 
 Arrow 
 
 Tiimbul 
 
 Quiver 
 
 Melip 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Bongon 
 
 Nose 
 
 Mugimgho 
 
 Eye 
 
 Mata 
 
 Death 
 
 Imes 
 
 Water 
 
 Nawai 
 
 Sun 
 
 Linal 
 
 Moon 
 
 Neriil 
 
 Stars 
 
 Nemusi 
 
 Sea 
 
 Tess 
 
 Earth 
 
 Neten 
 
 Stone 
 
 Nevet 
 
 Breadfmit 
 
 Mbetep 
 
 House 
 
 Nayiim 
 
 Man 
 
 Morot 
 
 Woman 
 
 Mormor 
 
 Pubhc-house or \ 
 Dead-house / 
 
 
 Nahmel 
 
 Fowl 
 
 Netao
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 361 
 
 English. 
 
 S.W. Bay, Mallicollo, 
 
 Pig 
 
 Mbruai 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 Imatu 
 
 Yam 
 
 Calcal 
 
 Big taro 
 
 Nahalan 
 
 Lalli 
 
 Mbulai 
 
 Image 
 
 Itemess 
 
 Rain 
 
 Nowu 
 
 Fire 
 
 Ambrrr 
 
 Wind 
 
 Nalang 
 
 Boat 
 
 Wanka 
 
 Dog 
 
 Ambuir 
 
 Cat 
 
 Nalambrut 
 
 Bamboo 
 
 Nambrr 
 
 Axe (steel) 
 
 Talai metan 
 
 Adze (shell) 
 
 Talai mbo 
 
 No, or There is not 
 
 Sisi 
 
 Sleep 
 
 MaiTnar 
 
 Good 
 
 Ilei 
 
 No. VI. St. Bartholomew Island, West End ; Sawann. 
 
 July 30///. 
 
 English. 
 One 
 Two 
 Three 
 Four 
 Five 
 Six 
 Seven 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 
 St. Bartholomew. 
 Teha 
 Rua 
 Tolu 
 Fati 
 Lima 
 Ono 
 Fitu 
 Walu 
 Sua 
 Sangaval
 
 l62 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 English. 
 
 St. Bartholomew. 
 
 Man 
 
 Tamalo 
 
 Woman 
 
 Vavine 
 
 Yam 
 
 Dam 
 
 Pig 
 
 Etelu 
 
 Land 
 
 Vati vanua 
 
 Rock 
 
 Taghas 
 
 Come 
 
 Omai 
 
 Bird 
 
 Karai 
 
 Fish 
 
 Mansi 
 
 Banana 
 
 Veitali 
 
 Breadfruit 
 
 Baiago 
 
 Adze 
 
 Bavi 
 
 Knife 
 
 Simba 
 
 Kava 
 
 Ghai 
 
 Bamboo 
 
 mBbrue 
 
 Sea 
 
 Tarusa 
 
 Water, fresh 
 
 Reu 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Humico 
 
 Nose 
 
 Kalsu 
 
 Eye 
 
 Matandra 
 
 Sleep 
 
 Queno 
 
 Death 
 
 Matsa 
 
 He is dead 
 
 Ka mate 
 
 Arm and hand 
 
 Limandra 
 
 Leg 
 
 Karnuda 
 
 Spear 
 
 Sari 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 Niu 
 
 Boy 
 
 Kuransi 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Aka 
 
 Large 
 
 Lewu 
 
 Small 
 
 Leiama 
 
 Sun 
 
 Alo 
 
 Rain 
 
 Kiri 
 
 Duck 
 
 Nka-ka
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 2>^Z 
 
 No. VII. Cape Lisburn or " Eralado," Espiritu Santo. 
 
 August 2nd, 1875. 
 
 English. 
 One 
 Two 
 Three 
 Four 
 Five 
 Six 
 
 Seven ■ 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 Sun 
 Moon ? 
 Canoe 
 Eye 
 Nose 
 Mouth 
 Man 
 Woman 
 Fire 
 Yam 
 Cocoa 
 Cocoanut 
 Stone adze 
 Stone 
 Ear 
 Sea 
 Land 
 
 Fresh water 
 Axe 
 Ann 
 
 Cape Lisburn. 
 Es 
 Erua 
 Etolu 
 Evate 
 Elim 
 Ars 
 Arua 
 Arolu 
 Athare 
 Senavul 
 Alo 
 Wulu 
 Aka 
 ]\Iatan 
 Malesun 
 Chinon 
 Olo? 
 Vavine 
 Ambrr 
 Ram 
 Tab 
 Niu 
 Iwul 
 Suli 
 
 Tab nan 
 Tas 
 Vanua 
 Ai 
 
 Tanyok 
 Lina
 
 'M 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUCH. 
 
 English. 
 
 
 Cape Liseurn. 
 
 Leg 
 
 
 Sari 
 
 Dead 
 
 
 Mat 
 
 Pig 
 
 
 Puaka 
 
 Come 
 
 
 Omai 
 
 Go 
 
 
 Maimai 
 
 Goodbye (? 
 
 Sleep) 
 
 Mulmul 
 
 Bird 
 
 
 Karai 
 
 Fowl 
 
 
 Toa 
 
 To buy 
 
 
 Wolwol, or Woliwoli 
 
 No. VIII. From a Village called Malo, Three Miles off, on the 
 opposite side of the Bay. (Cape Lisburn, Esp. Santo). 
 
 English. 
 One 
 Two 
 Three 
 Four 
 Five 
 Six 
 Seven 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 Woman 
 Man 
 
 Cocoanut 
 Bamboo 
 Water 
 House 
 Pig 
 Sow 
 
 August T^rd, 1875. 
 
 Malo. 
 Es 
 
 Morua 
 Motolu 
 Movate 
 Molim 
 
 Avarua 
 
 Avatolu 
 
 Avavate 
 
 Pita 
 
 Tandro 
 
 Olo 
 
 Bbbue 
 
 Nawai 
 
 Ima 
 
 Poa 
 
 Ricra
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 65 
 
 English. 
 
 
 
 
 Malo, 
 
 Fowl 
 
 
 
 
 Toa 
 
 Ear 
 
 
 
 
 Dralinan 
 
 Good 
 
 
 
 
 Tabani, or Taburc 
 
 Good mornir 
 
 'g 
 
 
 
 Kopammuledo 
 
 Good evenin,? 
 (Salaka, Fiji) 
 
 } 
 
 
 Kopasemedo 
 
 Big 
 
 
 
 
 Talal^a 
 
 Small 
 
 
 
 
 Tabariri 
 
 No. IX. Bay of St. 
 
 Ph: 
 
 [LIP 
 
 AND 
 
 St. James, West side of 
 
 River 
 
 Jordan, 
 
 EspiRiTU Santo. 
 
 
 Aii 
 
 gtist 
 
 Sth, 
 
 1875. 
 
 English. 
 
 
 
 
 St. Pnii.ir and St. James. 
 
 One 
 
 
 
 
 Teha 
 
 Two 
 
 
 
 
 Rua 
 
 Three 
 
 
 
 
 Tola 
 
 Four 
 
 
 
 
 Fate 
 
 Five 
 
 
 
 
 Lina 
 
 Six 
 
 
 
 
 Arabe, or Linarabe 
 
 Seven 
 
 
 
 
 Erua, or Laverua 
 
 Eight 
 
 
 
 
 Etou, or Lavetou 
 
 Nine 
 
 
 
 
 Rapate, or Torapate 
 
 Ten 
 
 
 
 
 Evuli, Sangaval, Ablateha 
 
 Fifteen 
 
 
 
 
 Vanamolina ? 
 
 Twenty 
 
 
 
 
 Ablarua 
 
 Thirty 
 
 
 
 
 Ablatolu 
 
 Forty 
 
 
 
 
 Ablavate 
 
 Fifty 
 
 
 
 
 Abla Una 
 
 Sixty 
 
 
 
 
 Ablelarabe 
 
 Seventy 
 
 
 
 
 Ablelaverua 
 
 Eighty 
 
 
 
 
 Al)le]avet6u 
 
 Ninety 
 
 
 
 
 Ablelerapate 
 
 Hundred 
 
 
 
 
 Patevuli
 
 366 
 
 COMMODORE GOODENOUGH. 
 
 English. 
 Nose 
 Mouth 
 Head 
 Teeth 
 Lips 
 Ear 
 Eye 
 Leg 
 Foot 
 Arm 
 Hand 
 Man 
 Woman 
 Bosom 
 Sun 
 Moon 
 Stars 
 
 Darkness of night 
 Sea 
 Land 
 Stone 
 House 
 Pig, boar 
 
 — sow 
 
 — little pig 
 Fowl 
 Duck 
 
 Fire 
 
 Sugar cane 
 
 Yam 
 
 Cocoanut 
 
 Mamy apple 
 
 Spear 
 
 Bow 
 
 — string 
 Arrow 
 
 St. Philip and St. JAxMes. 
 Hohum 
 Trigom 
 Rem 
 Utsum 
 Pavam ? 
 Saligam 
 Matam 
 Param 
 Na-em 
 Habem 
 Va-u-rom 
 Tatsua 
 
 Wahine ? Mormor ? 
 Susum 
 Matzusore 
 Apatia 
 Fiteyu 
 Po-o 
 Tasi 
 Vanua 
 Sule 
 Aima 
 Poe? 
 
 Tchure, or Tsure 
 A-a 
 Toa 
 Aato 
 Capsere 
 Tovu 
 Sinara 
 Matui 
 Kaurilru 
 Sari 
 Tinana 
 Asequina 
 Matuna
 
 VOCABULARIES. 
 
 367 
 
 Enoi-tsh. 
 
 3T. rniLir and r^i 
 
 Tomahawk 
 
 Pagiri 
 
 Knife 
 
 Tchin 
 
 Musket 
 
 Apuleve 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 Uepe 
 
 Fish 
 
 Avuli 
 
 Chief 
 
 Varese 
 
 Net 
 
 Maleyu 
 
 Dog 
 
 Owoi 
 
 Cat 
 
 Pesgaribi 
 
 Canoe paddle 
 
 Lua 
 
 Ship 
 
 Ure 
 
 Banana 
 
 Veitali 
 
 Waist belt 
 
 Pine-na-veari 
 
 — strings 
 
 Tsom 
 
 — maro 
 
 Ghire 
 
 Finger nail 
 
 Pisum 
 
 Sleep 
 
 Surubi 
 
 Awake 
 
 Tataloa 
 
 Come 
 
 Sua 
 
 Go 
 
 Mule 
 
 Good 
 
 Topei 
 
 Not good 
 
 To-o 
 
 Yes {as Lele, good, in \ 
 Samoa) J 
 
 Honea 
 
 
 Eat 
 
 Khani 
 
 Drink 
 
 0-0 
 
 Water 
 
 Pei 
 
 Great 
 
 Laba 
 
 Cape Quiros side 
 
 Azarao 
 
 Cape Cumberland 
 
 Tabasigo 
 
 Public House 
 
 Hamal
 
 68 
 
 COMMODORE COODENOUGH. 
 
 No. X. Vanikoro. 
 
 August 11 t/i, 1875. 
 
 English. 
 One 
 Two 
 Three 
 Four 
 Five 
 Six 
 Seven 
 Eight 
 Nine 
 Ten 
 ? Chief 
 ? Fish 
 House 
 Cocoanut 
 Bow 
 Arrow 
 Bowstring 
 Canoe 
 Paddle 
 Rock 
 Land 
 ?Sea 
 
 Breadfruit 
 Betehiut 
 Nose 
 Eye 
 Teeth 
 Tongue 
 Head or hair 
 Pig 
 Canoe 
 Pandanus 
 
 Vaxikoro. 
 Keru 
 Laki 
 Rava 
 Leli 
 Roo 
 Roembi 
 Embidua ? 
 Duarindi ? 
 
 Longolo 
 
 AHki 
 
 Ika 
 
 Wale 
 
 Niu 
 
 Ora 
 
 Bura 
 
 Evani 
 
 Goia 
 
 Wola 
 
 Vaghas 
 
 Anue 
 
 Magha 
 
 Mbeta 
 
 Mboiva 
 
 Gnelengo 
 
 Kamai 
 
 Kolenki 
 
 iMimiango 
 
 Baniana 
 
 Poe 
 
 Pelamo ? 
 
 Pandani
 
 VOCABULARIES. 3^9 
 
 No. XI. Carlisle Bay, Santa Cruz. 
 August 12///, 1875. 
 English. Carlisle Bay. 
 
 One 
 
 Two 
 
 Three 
 
 Four 
 
 Five 
 
 Six 
 
 Seven 
 
 Eight 
 
 Nine 
 
 Ten 
 
 Lium 
 
 THE END. 
 
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